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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years 1814-1815, by 
+Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Travels in France during the years 1814-1815
+       Comprising a residence at Paris, during the stay of the
+       allied armies, and at Aix, at the period of the landing
+       of Bonaparte, in two volumes.
+
+Author: Archibald Alison
+        Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+Release Date: December 4, 2008 [EBook #27410]
+[Most recently updated: February 26, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN FRANCE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net
+(Produced from images of the Bibliothèque nationale de
+France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS
+
+1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX,
+
+_AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF_
+
+BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREDIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52. PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST. REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK,
+
+PARRY, AND CO. T. UNDERWOOD, LONDON;
+
+AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+[Transcriber's note: The original spellings have been maintained; the
+French spelling and accentuation have not been corrected, but left as
+they appear in the original.]
+
+
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+A Second Edition of the following Work having been demanded by the
+Booksellers, the Author has availed himself of the opportunity to
+correct many verbal inaccuracies, to add some general reflections, and
+to alter materially those parts of it which were most hastily prepared
+for the press, particularly the Journal in the Second Volume, by
+retrenching a number of particulars of partial interest, and
+substituting more general observations on the state of the country,
+supplied by his own recollection and that of his fellow-travellers.
+
+He has only farther to repeat here, what he stated in the Advertisement
+to the first Edition, that the whole materials of the Publication were
+collected in France, partly by himself, during a residence which the
+state of his health had made adviseable in Provence, and partly by some
+friends who had preceded him in their visit to France, and were at Paris
+during the time when it was first occupied by the Allied Armies;--and
+that he has submitted it to the world, merely in the hope of adding
+somewhat to the general stock of information regarding the situation,
+character, and prospects of the French people, which it is so desirable
+that the English Public should possess.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Paris
+
+II. Paris--The Allied Armies
+
+III. Paris--Its Public Buildings
+
+IV. Environs of Paris
+
+V. Paris--The Louvre
+
+VI. Paris--The French Character and Manners
+
+VII. Paris--The Theatres
+
+VIII. Paris--The French Army and Imperial Government
+
+IX. Journey to Flanders
+
+
+VOLUME II.
+
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Aix
+
+II. Residence at Aix, and Journey to Bourdeaux
+
+III. State of France under Napoleon--Anecdotes of him
+
+IV. State of France under Napoleon--continued
+
+V. State of Society and Manners in France
+
+Register of the Weather
+
+
+
+
+VOLUME FIRST.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS.
+
+
+We passed through Kent in our way to France, on Sunday the first of May
+1814. This day's journey was very delightful. The whole scenery around
+us,--the richness of the fields and woods, then beginning to assume the
+first colours of spring; the extent and excellence of the cultivation;
+the thriving condition of the towns, and the smiling aspect of the neat
+and clean villages through which we passed; the luxuriant bloom of the
+fruit-trees surrounding them; the number of beautiful villas adapted to
+the accommodation of the middle ranks of society, the crowds of
+well-dressed peasantry going to and returning from church; the frank
+and cheerful countenances of the men, and beauty of the women--all
+presented a most pleasing spectacle. If we had not proposed to cross the
+channel, we should have compared all that we now saw with our
+recollections of Scotland; and the feeling of the difference, although
+it might have increased our admiration, would perhaps have made us less
+willing to acknowledge it. But when we were surveying England with a
+view to a comparison with France, the difference of its individual
+provinces was overlooked;--we took a pride in the apparent happiness and
+comfort of a people, of whom we knew nothing more, than that they were
+our countrymen; and we rejoiced, that the last impression left on our
+minds by the sight of our own country, was one which we already
+anticipated that no other could efface.
+
+Our passage to Calais was rendered very interesting, by the number of
+Frenchmen who accompanied us. Some of these were emigrants, who had
+spent the best part of their lives in exile; the greater part were
+prisoners of various ranks, who had been taken at different periods of
+the war. There was evidently the greatest diversity of character, of
+prospects, of previous habits, and of political and moral sentiments
+among these men; the only bond that connected them was, the love of
+their common country; and at a moment for which they had been so long
+and anxiously looking, this was sufficient to repress all jealousy and
+discord, and to unite them cordially and sincerely in the sentiment
+which was expressed, with true French enthusiasm, by one of the party,
+as we left the harbour of Dover,--"Voila notre chere France,--A present
+nous sommes tous amis!"
+
+As we proceeded, the expression of their emotions, in words, looks, and
+gestures, was sometimes extremely pleasing, at other times irresistibly
+ludicrous, but always characteristic of a people whose natural feelings
+are quick and lively, and who have no idea of there being any dignity or
+manliness in repressing, or concealing them. When the boat approached
+the French shore, a fine young officer, who had been one of the most
+amusing of our companions, leapt from the prow, and taking up a handful
+of sand, kissed it with an expression of ardent feeling and enthusiastic
+joy, which it was delightful to observe.
+
+It is only on occasions of this kind, that the whole strength of the
+feeling of patriotism is made known. In the ordinary routine of civil
+life, this feeling is seldom awakened. In the moments of national
+enthusiasm and exultation, it is often mingled with others. But in
+witnessing the emotions of the French exiles and captives, on returning
+to their wasted and dishonoured country, we discerned the full force of
+those moral ties, by which, even in the most afflicting circumstances of
+national humiliation and disaster, the hearts of men are bound to the
+land of their fathers.
+
+We landed, on the evening of the 2d, about three miles from Calais, and
+walked into the town. The appearance of the country about Calais does
+not differ materially from that in the immediate neighbourhood of Dover,
+which is much less fertile than the greater part of Kent; but the
+cottages are decidedly inferior to the English. The first peculiarity
+that struck us was the grotesque appearance of the _Douaniers_, who came
+to examine us on the coast; and when we had passed through the numerous
+guards, and been examined at the guard-houses, previously to our
+admission into the town, the gates of which had been shut, we had
+already observed, what subsequent observation confirmed, that the air
+and manner which we call military are in very little estimation among
+the French soldiers. The general appearance of the French soldiery
+cannot be better described than it has been by Mr Scott: "They seemed
+rather the fragments of broken-up gangs, than the remains of a force
+that had been steady, controlled, and lawful." They have almost
+uniformly, officers and men, much expression of intelligence, and often
+of ferocity, in their countenances, and much activity in their
+movements; but there are few of them whom an Englishman, judging from
+his recollection of English soldiers, would recognise to belong to a
+regular army.
+
+The lower orders of inhabitants in Calais hailed the arrival of the
+English strangers with much pleasure, loudly proclaiming, however, the
+interested motives of their joy. A number of blackguard-looking men
+gathered round us, recommending their own services, and different
+hotels, with much vehemence, and violent altercations among themselves;
+and troops of children followed, crying, "Vivent les Anglois--Give me
+one sous." In our subsequent travels, we were often much amused by the
+importunities of the children, who seem to beg, in many places, without
+being in want, and are very ingenious in recommending themselves to
+travellers; crying first, Vive le Roi; if that does not succeed, Vive
+l'Empereur; that failing, Vive le Roi d'Angleterre; and professing
+loyalty to all the sovereigns of Europe, rather than give up the hopes
+of a _sous_.
+
+Having reached the principal inn, we found that all the places in the
+diligence for Paris were taken for the ten following days. By this time,
+in consequence of the communication with France being opened, several
+new coaches had been established between London and Dover, but no such
+measure had been thought of on the road between Calais and Paris. There
+was no want of horses, as we afterwards found, belonging to the inns on
+the roads, but this seemed to indicate strongly want of ready money
+among the innkeepers. However, there were at Calais a number of
+"voitures" of different kinds, which had been little used for several
+years; one of which we hired from a "magasin des chaises," which
+reminded us of the Sentimental Journey, and set out at noon on the 3d,
+for Paris, accompanied by a French officer who had been a prisoner in
+Scotland, and to whose kindness and attentions we were much indebted.
+
+We were much struck with the appearance of poverty and antiquity about
+Calais, which afforded a perfect contrast to the Kentish towns; and all
+the country towns, through which we afterwards passed in France,
+presented the same general character. The houses were larger than those
+of most English country towns, but they were all old; in few places out
+of repair, but nowhere newly built, or even newly embellished. There
+were no newly painted houses, windows, carriages, carts, or even
+sign-posts; the furniture, and all the interior arrangements of the
+inns, were much inferior to those we had left; their external appearance
+stately and old-fashioned; the horses in the carriages were caparisoned
+with white leather, and harnessed with ropes; the men who harnessed them
+were of mean appearance, and went about their work as if they had many
+other kinds of work to do. There were few carts, and hardly any
+four-wheeled carriages to be seen in the streets; and it was obvious
+that the internal communications of this part of the country were very
+limited. There appeared to be few houses fitted for the residence of
+persons of moderate incomes, and hardly any villas about the town to
+which they might retire after giving up business. All the lower ranks of
+people, besides being much worse looking than the English, were much
+more coarsely clothed, and they seemed utterly indifferent about the
+appearance of their dress. Very few of the men wore beaver hats, and
+hardly two had exactly the same kind of covering for their heads.
+
+The dress of the women of better condition, particularly their
+high-crowned bonnets, and the ruffs about their necks, put us in mind of
+the pictures of old English fashions. The lower people appeared to bear
+a much stronger resemblance to some of the Highland clans, and to the
+Welch, than to any other inhabitants of Britain.
+
+On the road between Calais and Boulogne, we began to perceive the
+peculiarities of the husbandry of this part of France. These are just
+what were described by Arthur Young; and although it is possible, as the
+natives uniformly affirm, that the agriculture has improved since the
+revolution, this improvement must be in the details of the operations,
+and in the extent of land under tillage, not in the principles of the
+art. The most striking to the eye of a stranger are the want of
+enclosures, the want of pasture lands and of green crops, and the
+consequent number of bare fallows, on many of which a few sheep and
+long-legged lean hogs are turned out to pick up a miserable subsistence.
+The common rotation appears to be a three year's one; fallow, wheat, and
+oats or barley. On this part of the road, the ground is almost all under
+tillage, but the soil is poor; there is very little wood, and the
+general appearance of the country is therefore very bleak. In the
+immediate neighbourhood of Boulogne, it is better clothed, and varied
+by some pasture fields and gardens. The ploughs go with wheels. They are
+drawn by only two horses, but are clumsily made, and evidently inferior
+to the Scotch ploughs. They, as well as the carts, are made generally of
+green unpeeled wood, like those in the Scotch Highlands, and are never
+painted. This absence of all attempt to give an air of neatness or
+smartness to any part of their property--this indifference as to its
+appearance, is a striking characteristic of the French people over a
+great part of the country.
+
+It is likewise seen, as before observed, in the dress of the lower
+orders; but here it is often combined with a fantastic and ludicrous
+display of finery. An English dairy-maid or chamber-maid, ploughman or
+groom, shopkeeper or mechanic, has each a dress consistent in its parts,
+and adapted to the situation and employment of the wearer. But a country
+girl in France, whose bed-gown and petticoat are of the coarsest
+materials, and scantiest dimensions, has a pair of long dangling
+ear-rings, worth from 30 to 40 francs. A carter wears an opera hat, and
+a ballad-singer struts about in long military boots; and a blacksmith,
+whose features are obscured by the smoke and dirt which have been
+gathering on them for weeks, and whose clothes hang about him in
+tatters, has his hair newly frizzled and powdered, and his long queue
+plaited on each side, all down his back, with the most scrupulous
+nicety.
+
+Akin to this shew of finery in some parts of their dress, utterly
+inconsistent with the other parts of it, and with their general
+condition, is the disposition of the lower orders in France, even in
+their intercourse with one another, to ape the manners of their
+superiors. "An English peasant," as Mr Scott has well remarked, "appears
+to spurn courtesy from him, in a bitter sense of its inapplicability to
+his condition." This feeling is unknown in France. A French soldier
+hands his "bien aimée" into a restaurateur's of the lowest order and
+supplies her with fruits and wine, with the grace and foppery of a
+Parisian "petit maitre," and with the gravity of a
+"philosophe."--"Madame," says a scavenger in the streets of Paris,
+laying his hand on his heart, and making a low bow to an old woman
+cleaning shoes at the door of an inn, "J'espere que vous vous portez
+bien."--"Monsieur," she replies, dropping a curtsey with an air of
+gratitude and profound respect, "Vous me faites d'honneur; je me porte a
+merveille."
+
+This peculiarity of manner in the lower orders, will generally, it is
+believed, be found connected with their real degradation and
+insignificance in the eyes of their superiors. It is precisely because
+they are not accustomed to look with respect to those of their own
+condition, and because their condition is not respected by others, that
+they imitate the higher ranks. An English coachman or stable-boy is
+taught to believe, that a certain demeanour befits his situation; and he
+will certainly expose himself to more sneers and animadversions, by
+assuming the manners of the rank next above him in society, than the
+highest peer of the realm will by assuming his. But Frenchmen of the
+same rank are fain to seek that respectability from manner, which is
+denied to the lowness of their condition, and the vulgarity of their
+occupation; and they therefore assume the manner which is associated in
+their minds, and in the minds of their observers, with situations
+acknowledged to be respectable.
+
+It is also to be observed, that the power of ridicule, which has so much
+influence in the formation of manner, is much less in France than in
+England. The French have probably more relish for true wit than any
+other people; but their perception of humour is certainly not nearly so
+strong as that of our countrymen. Their ridicule is seldom excited by
+the awkward attempts of a stranger to speak their language, and as
+seldom by the inconsistencies which appear to us ludicrous in the dress
+and behaviour of their countrymen.
+
+These causes, operating gradually for a length of time, have probably
+produced that remarkable politeness of manners which is so pleasing to a
+stranger, in a number of the lower orders in France, and which appears
+so singular at the present time, as revolutionary ideas, military
+habits, and the example of a military court, have given a degree of
+roughness, and even ferocity, to the manners of many of the higher
+orders of Frenchmen, with which it forms a curious contrast. It is,
+however, in its relation to Englishmen at least, a fawning, cringing,
+interested politeness; less truly respectable than the obliging civility
+of the common people in England, and in substance, if not in appearance,
+still farther removed from the frank, independent, disinterested
+courtesy of the Scottish Highlanders.
+
+* * *
+
+Our entry into Boulogne was connected with several striking
+circumstances. To an Englishman, who, for many years, had heard of the
+mighty preparations which were made by the French in the port of
+Boulogne for the invasion of this country, the first view of this town
+could not but be peculiarly interesting. We accordingly got out of our
+_voiture_ as quickly as possible, and walked straight to the harbour.
+Here the first objects that presented themselves were, on one side, the
+last remains of the grand flotilla, consisting of a few hulks,
+dismantled and rotting in the harbour; on the other side, the Prussian
+soldiers drawn up in regiments on the beach. Nothing could have recalled
+to our minds more strongly the strength of that power which our country
+had so long opposed, nor the magnificent result which had at length
+attended her exertions. The forces destined for the invasion, and which
+were denominated by anticipation the army of England, had been encamped
+around the town. The characteristic arrogance--the undoubting
+anticipation of victory--the utter thoughtlessness--the unsinking
+vivacity of the French soldiery, were then at the highest pitch. Some
+little idea of the gay and light-hearted sentiments with which they
+contemplated the invasion of England, may be formed from the following
+song, which was sung to us with unrivalled spirit and gesticulation, as
+we came in sight of Boulogne, by our fellow-traveller, who had himself
+served in the army of England, and who informed us it was then commonly
+sung in the ranks.
+
+    SONG.
+
+    Français! le bal va se r'ouvrir,
+    Et vous aimez la danse,
+    L'Allemande vient de finir,
+    Mais l'Anglaise commence.
+
+    D'y figurer tous nous Français
+    Seront parbleu bien aises,
+    Car s'ils n'aiment pas les Anglais,
+    Ils aiment les Anglaises.
+
+    D'abord par le pas de Calais
+    Il faut entrer en danse,
+    Le son des instrumens Français
+    Marquera la cadence;
+
+    Et comme les Anglais ne scanroient
+    Que danser les Anglaises,
+    Bonaparte leur montrera
+    Les figures Françaises.
+
+    Allons mes amis de grand rond,
+    En avant, face a face,
+    Français le bas, restez d'a plomb,
+    Anglais changez les places.
+
+    Vous Monsieur Pitt vous balancez,
+    Formez la chaine Anglaise,
+    Pas de cotè--croisez--chassez--
+    C'est la danse Française!
+
+The humour of this song depends on the happy application of the names of
+the French dances, and the terms employed in them, to the subjects on
+which it is written, the conclusion of the German campaigns, and the
+meditated invasion of England.
+
+The Prussians who were quartered at Boulogne, and all the adjoining
+towns and villages, belonged to the corps of General Von York. Most of
+the infantry regiments were composed in part of young recruits, but the
+old soldiers, and all the cavalry, had a truly military appearance; and
+their swarthy weather-beaten countenances, their coarse and patched, but
+strong and serviceable dresses and accoutrements, the faded embroidery
+of their uniforms, and the insignia of orders of merit with which almost
+all the officers, and many of the men, were decorated, bore ample
+testimony to their participation in the labours and the honours of the
+celebrated army of Silesia.
+
+Some of them who spoke French, when we enquired where they had been,
+told us, in a tone of exultation, rather than of arrogance, that they
+had entered Paris--"le sabre a la main."
+
+The appearance of the country is considerably better in Picardy than in
+Artois, but the general features do not materially vary until you reach
+the Oise. The peasantry seem to live chiefly in villages, through which
+the road passes, and the cottages composing which resemble those of
+Scotland more than of England. They are generally built in rows; many of
+them are white-washed, but they are very dirty, and have generally no
+gardens attached to them; and a great number of the inhabitants seem
+oppressed with poverty to a degree unknown in any part of Britain. The
+old and infirm men and women who assembled round our carriage, when it
+stopped in any of these villages, to ask for alms, appeared in the most
+abject condition; and so far from observing, as one English traveller
+has done, that there are few beggars in France, it appeared to us that
+there are few inhabitants of many of these country villages who are
+ashamed to beg.
+
+To this unfavourable account of the aspect of this part of France, there
+are, however, exceptions: We were struck with the beauty of the village
+of Nouvion, between Montreuil and Abbeville, which resembles strongly
+the villages in the finest counties of England: The houses here have all
+gardens surrounding them, which are the property of the villagers. In
+the neighbourhood of Abbeville, and of Beauvais, there are also some
+neat villages; and the country around these towns is rich, and well
+cultivated, and beautifully diversified with woods and vineyards; and,
+in general, in advancing southwards, the country, though still
+uninclosed, appears more fertile and better clothed. Many of the
+villages are surrounded with orchards, and long rows of fruit-trees
+extend from some of them for miles together along the sides of the
+roads; long regular rows of elms and Lombardy poplars are also very
+common, particularly on the road sides; and, in some places, chateaux
+are to be seen, the situation of which is generally delightful; but most
+of them are uninhabited, or inhabited by poor people, who do not keep
+them in repair; and their deserted appearance contributes even more than
+the straight avenues of trees, and gardens laid out in the Dutch taste,
+which surround them, to confirm the impression of _antiquity_ which is
+made on the mind of an Englishman, by almost all that he sees in
+travelling through France.
+
+The roads in this, as in many other parts of the country, are paved in
+the middle, straight, and very broad, and appear adapted to a much more
+extensive intercourse than now exists between the different provinces.
+
+The country on the banks of the Oise, (which we crossed at Beaumont),
+and from thence to Paris, is one of the finest parts of France. The
+road passes, almost the whole way, through a majestic avenue of elm
+trees: Instead of the continual recurrence of corn fields and fallows,
+the eye is here occasionally relieved by the intervention of fields of
+lucerne and saintfoin, orchards and vineyards; the country is rich, well
+clothed with wood, and varied with rising grounds, and studded with
+chateaux; there are more carriages on the roads and bustle in the inns,
+and your approach to the capital is very obvious. Yet there are strong
+marks of poverty in the villages, which contain no houses adapted to the
+accommodation of the middling ranks of society; the soil is richer, but
+the implements of agriculture, and the system of husbandry, are very
+little better than in Picardy: the cultivation, every where tolerable,
+is nowhere excellent; there are no new farm-houses or farm-steadings; no
+signs of recent agricultural improvements; and the chateaux, in general,
+still bear the aspect of desertion and decay.
+
+This last peculiarity of French scenery is chiefly owing to the great
+subdivision of property which has taken place in consequence of the
+confiscation of church lands, and properties of the noblesse and
+emigrants, and of the subsequent sale of the national domains, at very
+low or even nominal prices, to the lower orders of the peasantry. To
+such a degree has this subdivision extended, that in many parts of
+France there is no proprietor of land who does not labour with his own
+hands in the cultivation of his property. The influence of this state of
+property on the prosperity of France, and the gradual changes which it
+will undergo in the course of time, will form an interesting study for
+the political economist; but in the mean time, it will almost prevent
+the possibility of collecting an adequate number of independent and
+enlightened men to represent the landed interest of France in any system
+of national representation.
+
+In travelling from Calais to Paris, we did not observe so great a want
+of men in the fields and villages as we had been led to expect. The men
+whom we saw, however, were almost all above the age of the conscription.
+In several places we saw women holding the plough; but in general, the
+proportion of women to men employed in the fields, appeared hardly
+greater than may be seen during most of the operations of husbandry in
+the best cultivated districts of Scotland. On inquiry among the
+peasants, we found the conscription, and the whole of Bonaparte's system
+of government, held in much abhorrence, particularly among the women;
+yet they did not appear to feel it so deeply as we had anticipated; and
+of him, individually, they were more disposed to speak in terms of
+ridicule than of indignation. "Il est parti pour l'ile d'Elbe (said
+they)--bon voyage!" It was obvious that public affairs, even in those
+critical moments, occupied much less of their attention than of persons
+of the same rank in England: their spirits are much less easily
+depressed; and it was easy to see that their domestic affections are
+less powerful. The men shewed much jealousy of the allied troops: said
+they were superior to the French only in numbers; and often repeated,
+that one French soldier was equal to two Russians.
+
+Although the old men and women whom we saw in the villages were
+generally in the most abject condition, yet the labourers employed in
+the fields appeared nearly as well dressed as the corresponding class in
+England; their wages were stated to be, over most of the country, from
+one franc to 25 sous a-day, and in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris,
+to be as high as two, or even three francs. In some places, we saw them
+dining on bread, pork, and cyder; but the scarcity of live stock was
+such, that it was impossible to suppose that they usually enjoyed so
+good a fare. The interior of the cottages appeared, generally, to be ill
+furnished.
+
+Every village and town through which we passed between Boulogne and
+Paris contained a number of the allied troops. At Beauvais, a town
+remarkable for its singular appearance, being almost entirely built of
+wood, and likewise for the beauty of its cathedral, the choir of which
+is reckoned the finest in France, we were first gratified with the sight
+of some hundreds of Russians, horse and foot, under arms. These troops
+were of the finest description, and belonged to the corps of the
+celebrated Wigtenstein.
+
+We enquired of many of the lower people, in the towns and villages
+through which we passed, concerning the conduct of the allied troops in
+their quarters, and the answers were almost uniformly--from the men,
+"Ils se comportent bien;" (frequently with the addition, "mais ils
+mangent comme des diables:")--and from the women, "Ils sont de bons
+enfans." We had very frequent opportunities of remarking the truth of
+the observation, that "women have less bitterness against the enemies of
+their country than men." The Parisian ladies adopted fashions from the
+uniforms of almost all the allied troops whom they saw in Paris; many of
+them were exceedingly anxious for opportunities of seeing the Emperor of
+Russia, and the most distinguished leaders of the armies that had
+conquered France; and those who were acquainted with officers of rank
+belonging to these armies appeared, on all occasions, to be highly
+flattered with the attentions they received from them. The same was
+observable in the conduct of the lower ranks. In the suburbs of Paris,
+and in the neighbouring villages, where many of the allied troops were
+quartered, they appeared always on the best terms with the female
+inhabitants, and were often to be seen assisting them in their work,
+playing at the battledore and shuttlecock with them in the streets, or
+strolling in their company along the banks of the Seine, and through the
+woods of Belleville or St Cloud, evidently to the satisfaction of both
+parties. Much must be allowed for the national levity of the French; yet
+it may be doubted, whether the officers and soldiers of a victorious
+army are ever, in the first instance, very obnoxious to the females,
+even of a vanquished country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+PARIS--THE ALLIED ARMIES.
+
+
+To those whose attention had been long fixed on the great political
+revulsion which had brought the wandering tribes of the Wolga and the
+Don into the heart of France, and whose minds had been incessantly
+occupied for many months previous to the time of which we speak, (as the
+minds of almost all Englishmen had been), with wishes for the success,
+and admiration of the exploits, of the brave troops who then occupied
+Paris, it may naturally be supposed, that even all the wonders of that
+capital were, in the first instance, objects of secondary consideration.
+It was not until our curiosity had been satisfied by the sight of the
+Emperor Alexander, the Duke of Wellington, Marshal Blucher, Count
+Platoff, and such numbers of the Russian and Prussian officers and
+soldiers, as we considered a fair specimen of the whole armies, that we
+could find time to appreciate the beauties even of the Apollo and the
+Venus.
+
+The streets of Paris are always amusing and interesting, from the
+numbers and varieties of costumes and characters which they present; but
+at the time of which we speak, they might be considered as exhibiting an
+epitome of the greater part of Europe. Parties of Russian cuirassiers,
+Prussian lancers, and Hungarian hussars; Cossacks, old and young, from
+those whose beards were grey with age, to those who were yet beardless,
+cantering along after their singular fashion--their long lances poised
+on their stirrups, and loosely fastened to their right arms, vibrating
+over their heads; long files of Russian and Prussian foragers, and long
+trains of Austrian baggage waggons, winding slowly through the crowd;
+idle soldiers of all services, French as well as allied, lounging about
+in their loose great coats and trowsers, with long crooked pipes hanging
+from their mouths; patroles of infantry parading about under arms,
+composed half of Russian grenadiers, and half of Parisian national
+guards; Russian coaches and four, answering to the description of Dr
+Clarke, the postillions riding on the off-horses, and dressed almost
+like beggars; Russian carts drawn by four horses a-breast, and driven by
+peasants in the national costume; Polish Jews, with long black beards,
+dressed in black robes like the cassocks of English clergymen, with
+broad leathern belts--all mingled with the Parisian multitude upon the
+Boulevards: and in the midst of this indiscriminate assemblage, all the
+business, and all the amusements of Paris, went on with increased
+alacrity and fearless confidence. The Palais Royal was crowded, morning,
+noon, and night, with Russian and Prussian officers in full uniform,
+decorated with orders, whose noisy merriment, cordial manners, and
+careless profusion, were strikingly contrasted with the silence and
+sullenness of the French officers.
+
+It is fortunately superfluous for us to enlarge on the appearance, or on
+the character of the Emperor Alexander. We were struck with the
+simplicity of the style in which he lived. He inhabited only one or two
+apartments in a wing of the splendid Elysee Bourbon--slept on a leather
+mattress, which he had used in the campaign--rose at four in the
+morning, to transact business--wore the uniform of a Russian General,
+with only the medal of 1812, (the same which is worn by every soldier
+who served in that campaign, with the inscription, in Russ, _Non nobis
+sed tibi Domine_); had a French guard at his door--went out in a chaise
+and pair, with a single servant and no guards, and was very regular in
+his attendance at a small chapel, where the service of the Greek church
+was performed. We had access to very good information concerning him,
+and the account which we received of his character even exceeded our
+anticipation. His well-known humanity was described to us as having
+undergone no change from the scenes of misery inseparable from extended
+warfare, to which his duties, rather than his inclinations, had so long
+habituated him. He repeatedly left behind him, in marching with the
+army, some of the medical men of his own staff, to dress the wounds of
+French soldiers whom he passed on the way; and it was a standing order
+of his to his hospital staff, to treat wounded Russians and French
+exactly alike.
+
+His conduct at the battle of Fere Champenoise, a few days before the
+capture of Paris, of which we had an account from eye-witnesses, may
+give an idea of his conduct while with the armies. The French column,
+consisting of about 5000 infantry, with some artillery, was attacked by
+the advanced guard of the allies, consisting of cavalry, with some
+horse-artillery, under his immediate orders. It made a desperate
+resistance, and its capture being an object of great importance, he sent
+away all his guards, even the Cossacks, and exposed himself to the fire
+of musketry for a long time, directing the movements of the troops. When
+the French squares were at length broken by the repeated charges of
+cavalry and Cossacks, he threw himself into the middle of them, at a
+great personal risk, that he might restrain the fury of the soldiers,
+exasperated by the obstinacy of the resistance; and although he could
+not prevent the whole French officers and men from being completely
+pillaged, many of them owed their lives to his interference. The French
+commander was brought to him, and offered him his sword, which he
+refused to accept, saying, he had defended himself too well.
+
+The wife and children of a General who had been with the French army,
+were brought to him, and he placed a guard over them, which was
+overpowered in the confusion. The unfortunate woman was never more heard
+of, but he succeeded in recovering the children, had a bed made for them
+in his own tent, and kept them with him, until he reached Paris, when he
+ordered enquiry to be made for some of her relations, to whose care he
+committed them.
+
+He was uniformly represented to us as a man not merely of the most
+amiable dispositions, but of superior understanding, of uncommon
+activity, and of a firm decided turn of mind. Of the share which he
+individually had in directing the operations of the allied armies, we do
+not pretend to speak with absolute certainty; but we had reason to know,
+that the general opinion in the Russian army was, that the principal
+movements were not merely subjected to his control, but guided by his
+advice; and he was certainly looked upon, by officers who had long
+served under him, as one of the ablest commanders in the allied armies.
+
+He was much disconcerted, it was said, by the loss of the battle of
+Austerlitz; but his subsequent experience in war had given him the true
+military obstinacy, and he bore the loss of the battles of Lutzen and
+Bautzen with perfect equanimity; often saying, the French can still beat
+us, but they will teach us how to beat them; and we will conquer them by
+our _pertinacity_. The attachment of the Russian army, and especially of
+the guards, to him, almost approaches to idolatry; and the effect of his
+presence on the exertions and conduct of his troops, was not more
+beneficial to Europe while the struggle was yet doubtful, than to France
+herself after her armies were overthrown, and her "sacred territory"
+invaded.
+
+As a specimen of the general feeling in the Russian army at the time
+they invaded France, we may mention the substance of a conversation
+which an officer of the Russian staff told us he had held with a private
+of the Russian guard on the march, soon after the invasion. The soldier
+complained of the Emperor's proclamation, desiring them to consider as
+enemies only those whom they met in the field. "The French," said he,
+"came into our country, bringing hosts of Germans and Poles along with
+them;--they plundered our properties, burnt our houses, and murdered our
+families;--every Russian was their enemy. We have driven them out of
+Russia, we have followed them into Poland, into Germany, and into
+France; but wherever we go, we are allowed to find none but friends.
+This," he added, "is very well for us guards, who know that pillage is
+unworthy of us; but the common soldiers and Cossacks do not understand
+it; they remember how their friends and relations have been treated by
+the French, and that remembrance _lies at their hearts_."
+
+* * *
+
+We visited with deep interest the projecting part of the heights of
+Belleville, immediately overlooking the Fauxbourg St Martin, which the
+Emperor Alexander reached, with the king of Prussia, the Prince
+Schwartzenburg, and the whole general staff, on the evening of the 30th
+of March. It was here that he received the deputation from Marshals
+Marmont and Mortier, who had fought all day against a vast superiority
+of force, and been fairly overpowered, recommending Paris to the
+generosity of the allies. Thirty howitzers were placed on this height,
+and a few shells were thrown into the town, one or two of which, we were
+assured, reached as far as the Eglise de St Eustace; it is allowed on
+all hands that they fell within the Boulevards. The heights of
+Montmartre were at the same time stormed by the Silesian army, and
+cannon were placed on it likewise,--Paris was then at his mercy. After a
+year and a half of arduous contest, it was at length in his power to
+take a bloody revenge for the miseries which his subjects had suffered
+during the unprovoked invasion of Russia.--He ordered the firing to
+cease; assured the French deputation of his intention to protect the
+city; and issued orders to his army to prepare to march in, the next
+morning, in parade order. He put himself at their head, in company with
+the King of Prussia, and all the generals of high rank. After passing
+along the Boulevards to the Champs Elysees, the sovereigns placed
+themselves under a tree, in front of the palace of the Thuilleries,
+within a few yards of the spot where Louis XVI. and many other victims
+of the revolution had perished; and they saw the last man of their
+armies defile past the town, and proceed to take a position beyond it,
+before they entered it themselves.
+
+At this time, the recollection of the fate of Moscow was so strong in
+the Russian army, and the desire of revenge was so generally diffused,
+not merely among the soldiers, but even among the superior, officers,
+that they themselves said, nothing could have restrained them but the
+presence and positive commands of their Czar; nor could any other
+influence have maintained that admirable discipline in the Russian army,
+during its stay in France, which we have so often heard the theme of
+panegyric even among their most inveterate enemies.
+
+It is not in the columns of newspapers, nor in the perishable pages of
+such a Journal as this, that the invincible determination, the splendid
+achievements, and the generous forbearance of the Emperor of Russia and
+his brave army, during the last war, can be duly recorded; but when they
+shall have passed into history, we think we shall but anticipate the
+sober judgment of posterity by saying, that the foreign annals of no
+other nation, ancient or modern, will present, in an equal period of
+time, a spectacle of equal moral grandeur.
+
+* * *
+
+The King of Prussia was often to be seen at the Parisian theatres,
+dressed in plain clothes, and accompanied only by his son and nephew.
+The first time we saw him there, he was making some enquiries of a
+manager of the Theatre de l'Odeon, whom he met in the lobby; and the
+modesty and embarrassment of his manner were finely contrasted with the
+confident loquacity and officious courtesy of the Frenchman. He is known
+to be exceedingly averse to public exhibitions, even in his own country.
+He had gone through all the hardships and privations of the campaigns,
+had exposed himself with a gallantry bordering on rashness in every
+engagement, his son and nephew always by his side; his coolness in
+action was the subject of universal admiration; and it was not without
+reason that he had acquired the name of the first soldier in his army.
+His brothers, who are fine looking men, took the command of brigades in
+the Silesian army, and did the duty of brigadiers to the satisfaction of
+the whole army.
+
+* * *
+
+We had the good fortune of seeing the Duke of Wellington at the opera,
+the first time that he appeared in public at Paris. He was received with
+loud applause, and the modesty of his demeanour, while it accorded with
+the impressions of his character derived from his whole conduct, and the
+style of his public writings, sufficiently shewed, that his time had
+been spent more in camps than in courts. We were much pleased to find,
+that full justice was done to his merits as an officer by all ranks of
+the allied armies. On the day that he entered Paris, the watch-word in
+the whole armies in the neighbourhood was Wellington, and the
+countersign Talavera. We have often heard Russian and Prussian officers
+say, "he is the hero of the war:--we have conquered the French by main
+force, but his triumphs are the result of superior skill."
+
+* * *
+
+We found, as we had expected, that Marshal Blucher was held in the
+highest estimation in the allied army, chiefly on account of the
+promptitude and decision of his judgment, and the unconquerable
+determination of his character. We were assured, that notwithstanding
+the length and severity of the service in which he had been engaged
+during the campaign of 1814, he expressed the greatest regret at its
+abrupt termination; and was anxious to follow up his successes, until
+the remains of the French army should be wholly dispersed, and their
+leader unconditionally surrendered. An English gentleman who saw him at
+the time of the action in which a part of his troops were engaged at
+Soissons, a few days previous to the great battle at Laon, gave a
+striking account of his cool collected appearance on that occasion. He
+was lying in profound silence, wrapped up in his cloak, on the snow, on
+the side of a hill overlooking the town, smoking his pipe, and
+occasionally looking through a telescope at the scene of action. At
+length he rose up, saying, it was not worth looking at, and would come
+to nothing. In fact, the main body of the French army was marching on
+Rheims, and he was obliged to retire and concentrate his forces, first
+on Craon, and afterwards on Laon, before he could bring on a general
+action.
+
+He bore the fatigues of the campaign without any inconvenience, but fell
+sick on the day after he entered Paris, and resigned his command,
+requesting only of General Sacken, the governor of the town, that he
+would allot him lodgings from which he could look out upon Montmartre,
+the scene of his last triumph. He never appeared in public at Paris;
+but we had the pleasure of seeing him in a very interesting situation.
+We had gone to visit the Hotel des Invalides, and on entering the church
+under the great dome, we found this great commander, accompanied only by
+his son and another officer, leaning on the rails which encircle the
+monument of Turenne. We followed him into a small apartment off the
+church, where the bodies of Marshals Bessieres and Duroc, and the hearts
+of Generals Laroboissiere and Barraguay D'Hilliers, lay embalmed under a
+rich canopy of black velvet, in magnificent coffins, which were strewed
+with flowers every morning by the Duchess of Istria, the widow of
+Bessieres, who came thither regularly after mass. This room was hung
+with black, and lighted only by a small lamp, which burnt under the
+canopy, and threw its light in the most striking manner on the grey
+hairs and expressive countenance of the old Marshal, as he stood over
+the remains of his late antagonists in arms. He heard the name of each
+with a slight inclination of his head, gazed on the coffins for some
+moments in silence, and then turned about, and, as if to shew that he
+was not to be moved by his recollections, he strode out of the chapel
+humming a tune.
+
+He had vowed to recover possession of the sword of the great Frederic,
+which used to hang in the midst of the 10,000 standards of all nations
+that waved under the lofty dome of this building; but on the day that
+the allies entered Paris, the standards were taken down and burnt, and
+the sword was broken to pieces, by an order, as was said, from Maria
+Louisa.
+
+It is right to notice here, that the famous Silesian army which he
+commanded, consisted originally of many more Russian troops than
+Prussians,--in the proportion, we were told, of four to one, although
+the proportion of the latter was afterwards increased. Indeed it was at
+first the intention of the Emperor of Russia to put himself at the head
+of this army; but he afterwards gave up that idea, saying, that he knew
+the Russians and Prussians would fight well, and act cordially together;
+but that the presence of the Sovereigns would be more useful in keeping
+together the heterogeneous materials composing the army then forming in
+Bohemia, which afterwards had the name of the grand army.
+
+We have heard different opinions expressed as to the share which General
+Gneisenau, the chief of the staff of the Silesian army, had in directing
+the operations of that army. This General is universally looked on as an
+officer of first-rate merit, and many manœuvres of great importance are
+believed to have been suggested by him; yet it was to the penetrating
+judgment and enthusiastic spirit of the old Marshal, that the officers
+whom we saw seemed most disposed to ascribe their successes.
+
+* * *
+
+We were much struck by the courteous and dignified manners of old Count
+Platoff. Even at that time, before he had experienced British
+hospitality, he professed high admiration for the British character,
+individual as well as national, saying, that he looked on every
+Englishman as his brother; and he was equally candid in expressing his
+detestation of the French, not even excepting the ladies. We, however,
+saw him receive one or two Frenchmen, who were presented to him by his
+friends, with his accustomed mildness. His countenance appeared to us
+expressive of considerable humour, and he addressed a few words to
+almost every Cossack of the guard whom he met in passing through the
+court of the Elysee Bourbon, which were always answered by a hearty
+laugh. During the two last campaigns of the war he had been almost
+constantly at head-quarters, and his advice, we were assured, was much
+respected.
+
+On the night after the battle of Borodino, Count Platoff, we were told,
+bivouacked on the field, in front of the position originally occupied by
+the Russians[1], and on the next day he covered their retreat with his
+Cossacks. One of the Princes of Hesse Philipsthal, an uncommonly
+handsome young man, who had volunteered to act as an aid-de-camp of his,
+had his leg shot away close to his side. Amputation was immediately
+performed above the middle of his thigh; he was laid on a peasant's
+cart, and carried 350 versts almost without stopping. However, he
+recovered perfectly, and petitioned the Emperor to be allowed to wear
+ever after the Cossack uniform. We saw him in it at Paris, going on
+crutches, but regretting in strong terms that he was to see no more
+fighting.
+
+On the day before the French entered Moscow, Count Platoff, and some
+other officers, from one of whom we had this anecdote, breakfasted with
+Count Rostapchin at his villa in the vicinity of the town, which it had
+been the delight of his life to cultivate and adorn. After breakfast,
+Count Rostapchin assembled his servants and retainers; and after saying
+that he hoped his son and latest descendants would always be willing to
+make a similar sacrifice for the good of their country, he took a torch,
+set fire to the building with his own hands, and waited until it was
+consumed. He then rode into the town to superintend the destruction of
+some warehouses full of clothes, of a number of carts, and of other
+things which might be useful to the enemy. But he did not, as we were
+assured by his son, whom we met at Paris, order the destruction of the
+town. The French, enraged at the loss of what was most valuable to them,
+according to the uniform account of the Russians, set fire in a
+deliberate and methodical manner to the different streets. It is but
+justice to say, however, that French officers, who had been at Moscow,
+denied the truth of the latter part of this statement.
+
+* * *
+
+The Russian troops in the neighbourhood of Paris were under the
+immediate command of General Count Miloradovitch, a man of large
+property, and unbounded generosity, and an enthusiast in his profession.
+He had been in the habit of always making the troops under his command
+some kind of present on his birth-day. During the retreat of the French
+from Moscow, this day came round when he was not quite prepared for it.
+"I have no money here," said he to his soldiers; "but yonder," pointing
+to a French column, "is a present worthy of you and of me." This address
+was a prelude to one of the most successful attacks, made during the
+pursuit, on the French rear-guard.
+
+The other Russian commanders, whom we heard highly spoken of by the
+Russian officers whom we met, were, the Marshal commanding, Barclay de
+Tolly, in whose countenance we thought we could trace the indications of
+his Scotch origin;--he is an old man, and was commonly represented as
+"sage, prudent, tres savant dans la guerre."--Wigtenstein, who is much
+younger, and is designated as "ardent, impetueux, entreprenant,"
+&c.--Benigsen, who is an old man, but very active, and represented to be
+as fond of fighting as Blucher himself;--Count Langeron, and Baron
+Sacken, the commanders of corps in the Silesian army. The former is a
+French emigrant, but has been long in the Russian service, and highly
+distinguished himself. The latter is an old man, but very spirited, and
+highly esteemed for his honourable character: in his capacity of
+Governor of Paris, he gave very general satisfaction.--Woronzoff, who,
+as is well known, was educated in England, and who distinguished
+himself at Borodino, and in the army of the north of Germany, and
+afterwards in France under Blucher--Winzingerode, one of the best
+cavalry officers, formerly in the Austrian service--Czernicheff, the
+famous partisan, a gallant gay young man, whose characteristic activity
+is strongly marked in his countenance--Diebzitch, a young staff officer
+of the first promise, since promoted to the important situation of Chef
+de l'etat major--Lambert (of French extraction), and Yermoloff: This
+last officer commanded the guards when we were at Paris, and was
+represented as a man of excellent abilities, and of a most determined
+character.
+
+To shew the determined spirit of some of the Russian generals, we may
+mention an anecdote of one of them, which we repeatedly heard. On one
+occasion, the troops under the command of this general were directed to
+defile over a bridge, under a very heavy fire from the enemy. Observing
+some hesitation in their movements, he said, with perfect coolness, "If
+they don't go forward, I will take care they shall not come back;" and
+planted a battery of 12 pounders in their rear, pointing directly at the
+bridge, in view of which they forced the passage in the most gallant
+style.
+
+The spirit of emulation which prevailed in all ranks of the Russian
+army, during the war, was worthy of the cause in which they were
+engaged. The following anecdote, we think, deserves commemoration. Two
+officers of rank had aspired to the same situation in the army, and
+exerted all their influence to obtain it. The successful candidate had
+the command of the famous redoubt at Borodino, when it was carried by
+the French. The other, who had a subordinate command just behind it,
+immediately came up to him, and asked leave to retake it for him. No,
+replied he; if you go there, I must be along with you. They collected
+what force they could, entered the redoubt together, and regained it at
+the point of the bayonet; but the officer who originally commanded in it
+was killed by the side of his rival. The latter, immediately after the
+battle, was promoted to the situation which he had so ardently desired;
+but his enjoyment of it was long and visibly embittered by the
+recollection of the event to which he owed his appointment.
+
+The number of Russian prisoners taken by the French during the war was
+very trifling, and we were assured, that there was no instance in the
+whole course of it, of a single Russian battalion or squadron laying
+down its arms. The number of prisoners taken by the Cossacks alone,
+from the time when the French left Moscow until the passage of the
+Niemen, was 90,000, and the number of cannon 550. It is true that these
+were for the most part stragglers, and men unable to fight; but it must
+be remembered, that many of them could only have been overtaken in their
+flight by these hardy and enterprising troops. To prove the value of the
+service rendered by the Cossacks, it is only necessary to observe, that
+many of the officers who distinguished themselves most in all the
+campaigns, Platoff, Orloff Denizoff, Wasilchikoff, Czernicheff,
+Tettenborn, &c. commanded Cossacks almost exclusively, and attributed
+much of their success to the quality of their troops. Most of the
+Cossacks whom we saw appeared to be well disciplined, and had a truly
+military air; and we were told, that all the 83 regiments of Cossacks
+are at present in a state of tolerable discipline. We cannot go so far
+as Dr Clarke in praise of their cleanliness, but we often observed their
+native easy courtesy of manner; and there can be no doubt, as he
+observes, of their being a much handsomer race than the generality of
+Russians. Their figures are more graceful, and their features are
+higher, and approach often to the Roman style of countenance. One troop
+of the Cossacks of the guards, composed of those from the Black Sea,
+attracted our particular admiration; and the noble manly figures of the
+men, the elegant forms of the horses, and the picturesque appearance of
+the arms and uniforms of the whole body of Cossacks of the guard, were
+very striking. The hereditary Prince of Georgia was at Paris as one of
+the Colonels of this regiment, and his figure and countenance were such
+as might have rendered him remarkable even in his native country, in
+which the "human form divine" is understood to attain its highest
+perfection.
+
+The Cossacks were kept in good order when under the inspection of their
+officers; but during the campaigns, they were often obliged to act in
+patroles, two or three together, at a distance from their officers; and
+in these situations, it may be supposed that they would commit many
+excesses. Immediately after a battle, they plundered all they met, and
+at all times, and in all places, they looked on horses as fair game,
+insomuch that it was often remarked in the allied armies, that they
+believed horses to have been created for none but Cossacks. It was said,
+that almost every Cossack of the corps of Czernicheff was worth from £.
+300 to £. 400 in money and watches, which most of them spent much after
+the manner of British sailors.
+
+* * *
+
+Some idea of the expenditure of human life, during the campaign of 1812,
+may be formed from the following facts, which we had from unquestionable
+authority: The number of killed and wounded on both sides at the battle
+of Borodino, which did not extend from flank to flank more than three
+English miles, was ascertained to exceed 75,000 men. Eighteen thousand
+wounded Russians were dressed on the field, and sent off in carts. When
+the Russian army crossed the Niemen, in pursuit of the French, they left
+behind them 87,000 sick and wounded in hospitals, of which number 63,000
+were wounded. The whole number of human bodies, Russian and French, men,
+women, and children, which were collected and buried or burnt, after the
+retreat from Moscow to the Niemen, exceeded 300,000.
+
+The officers of the Russian medical staff spoke in terms of the utmost
+indignation of the conduct of the French medical staff, in deserting
+their charge on the approach of the Russian armies. A great part of the
+town of Wilna, and surrounding villages, had been converted into
+hospitals for the French army, and when the Russians arrived, they
+found these hospitals wholly deserted by the medical men. The sick (many
+of them labouring under infectious fevers), and the wounded, were
+huddled together, without provisions, attendants, or the slightest
+regard to their situation. The first step of the Russian officers who
+were entrusted with the care of these hospitals, was to employ a number
+of Jews to clear out the corpses, some of which had lain there for three
+weeks; and when these were collected and burnt, their number was found
+to exceed 16,000; the sick were then separated from the wounded; and as
+soon as order was re-established, the Emperor of Russia visited the
+hospitals himself, to be assured that every possible attention was paid
+to their surviving inmates.
+
+During the whole of the winter of 1812 and the year 1813, a typhus fever
+was very prevalent in the French army, and in many places, particularly
+on the fortresses on the Elbe, and in Frankfort and Mentz, it made
+dreadful ravages; but it never extended, to any considerable degree,
+among the Russians. This was partly owing, no doubt, to the influence of
+exciting passions on the constitutions of the men; but much must
+certainly be ascribed to the admirable arrangements of the Russian
+hospital staff, which, under the superintendance of our countryman, Sir
+James Wyllie, have attained, in a few years, a surprising degree of
+excellence. The state of the Russian hospitals at Paris, under the
+direction of another countryman, Dr Crichton, was universally admired.
+
+The Russian imperial guard is, we believe, the finest body of men in
+Europe; the whole number, when the regiments are all complete, is about
+30,000; but the effective men at Paris did not exceed 20,000. These are
+made up from time to time, by picked men from the whole army. The charge
+of one of the regiments of cuirassiers, 1000 strong, upon the Champ de
+Mars, was one of the finest sights imaginable. The clattering of the
+horses feet on hard ground, and the rattling of the armour, increasing
+as they advanced, exceeded the sound of the loudest thunder.
+
+Their horses are not so heavy as those of the English dragoons, but they
+have evidently more blood in them, and their power of bearing fatigues
+and privations is quite wonderful. We were told by the officer
+commanding one of these regiments, that almost all the horses we saw in
+Paris, in the finest possible condition, were on the Niemen when the
+French crossed it in 1812, and had borne the fatigues of the retreat to
+Moscow, and of the advance during the dreadful winter which had proved
+so fatal to the French army; as well as of the winter campaign of 1814
+in France, which was carried on, almost entirely, during frost and snow.
+The Russian soldiers bore the extreme cold of the former winter in a
+manner hardly less wonderful; we were assured that they were not more
+warmly clothed than the French; but they were accustomed to the climate,
+were comparatively well fed, and were animated by victory, while their
+antagonists were depressed by famine and despair.
+
+The equipment of the artillery of the guard is probably the completest
+in the world;--each gun of the horse artillery is followed by three
+tumbrils of ammunition, and the artillerymen being all mounted and
+armed, a battery of horse artillery is fitted to act in a double
+capacity. One of these batteries, of 12 pieces, on the march, with all
+its accompaniments, takes up fully half-a-mile of road.
+
+The regiments of infantry are of various strength; all are composed of
+the finest men, in point of strength and military appearance, but they
+appeared to us rather inadequately officered. Of the physical powers of
+this body of men, no better proof can be given, than their having
+marched, within 24 hours, on the 22d and 23d of March, a distance of 18
+leagues, or 54 miles, which they did at two marches, resting three
+hours, without any straggling. The occasion on which they most highly
+distinguished themselves was at Culm, where four regiments of them
+(about 8000 men) stopped, for two days, in the defiles of the Riesen
+Gebirge, the whole corps of Vandamme. The regiment Pavloffsky, who were
+made guards for their conduct at Borodino, attracted particular
+attention; they wear caps faced with brass, whence the French soldiers,
+who know them well, call them the Bonnets d'Or; and many of them
+preserve with much care the marks of the bullets by which these have
+been pierced.
+
+The Russian soldiers, at least of the guard, have almost universally
+dark complexions, their features are generally low, and their faces
+broad. The officers and soldiers of the Prussian guard, which is about
+8000 strong, and in an equally high state of discipline and equipment,
+are, on the whole, handsomer men, having generally fair hair, blue eyes,
+high features, and ruddy complexions.
+
+A great number of the Prussian officers have a fine expression of
+romantic enterprise in their countenances; and it is well known, that
+the whole Prussian nation, long oppressed by the presence of French
+armies, entered into the war with France with a spirit of energy and
+union that never was surpassed. The formation of the legion of
+revenge,--the desertion of all seminaries of education, by teachers as
+well as pupils,--the substitution of ornaments in iron, for gold and
+jewellery, by the ladies of Berlin and other towns, are striking
+instances of this popular feeling. The war-song, composed by a young
+student from Konigsberg, which was sung in the heat of battle by the
+regiment of volunteer hussars to which he belonged, and the author of
+which was basely slain by a French prisoner whom he had neglected to
+disarm,--to judge of it by a version which appeared in the newspapers,
+and by the enthusiasm with which the Prussians speak of it, is worthy of
+being translated by one of our noblest poets.
+
+All the nations of Germany have strong feelings of patriotism associated
+with the sight, and even with the name of the Rhine. When the Austrians,
+in one of the last actions of the campaign of 1813, carried the heights
+of Hockheim, in the neigbourhood of Mentz, and first came in sight of
+that river, they involuntarily halted, and stood for some minutes in
+silence; when the Prince Marshal coming up to know the cause of the
+delay, their feelings burst forth in peals of enthusiastic acclamation,
+as they again advanced to the charge. The Prussian corps of the army of
+Silesia, destined to force the passage of the river, assembled on the
+right bank on the evening of the 31st of December 1813, determined to
+begin the year with the conquest to which they had long aspired; and
+just at midnight the first boats pulled off from the shore, the oars
+keeping time to thousands of voices, who sung words adapted to a
+favourite national air by the celebrated Schlegel, the beginning of
+which is, literally translated, "The Rhine shall no longer be our
+boundary,--it is the great artery of Germany, and it shall flow through
+the heart of our empire."
+
+The Austrians whom we saw at Paris, were in general strong heavy looking
+men. Their cavalry were universally admired; but the Russians and
+Prussians complained much of the general dilatoriness of their
+movements, and in particular, of the quantity of baggage waggons with
+which their march was encumbered. Upon one occasion, some hundreds of
+these fell into the hands of the French, to the great amusement of the
+Russians. The Bavarians and Wirtembergers had the character, both in
+Russia and France, of fighting very hard, and plundering freely. This
+last accomplishment, as well as their military arrangements, they had
+learnt from the French; and their conduct in this respect in France
+itself, might be said to be actuated by a kind of poetical justice.
+
+* * *
+
+We were highly gratified by this review of the whole Russian and
+Prussian guard which we saw in the Bois de Boulogne and road to St
+Germain, on the 30th of May. They were drawn up in a single line,
+extending at least six miles. The allied Sovereigns, followed by the
+Princes of Russia, Prussia and France, the French Marshals, and all the
+leading officers of the allied armies, rode at full speed along the
+line; and the loud huzzas of the soldiers, which died away among the
+long avenues of elm trees, as the cloud of dust which enveloped them
+receded from the view, were inexpressibly sublime.
+
+The appearance of these troops on parade was such, that but for the
+traces which long exposure to all changes of weather had left on their
+countenances, it never could have been supposed that they had been
+engaged in long marches. They had always marched and fought in their
+great coats and small blue caps, carrying their uniforms in their
+knapsacks. On the night before they entered Paris, however, they put
+them on, and marched into the town in as fine parade order as that in
+which they had left Petersburg. The Parisians, who had been told that
+the allied armies were nearly annihilated, and only a wreck left,
+expressed their astonishment with their usual levity: "Au moins," said
+they, "C'est un beau debris."
+
+While the uniforms, arms, and accoutrements of these troops were in the
+highest order, they seemed to take a pride in displaying the worn and
+faded standards, torn by the winds and pierced with bullets, under which
+they had served during the whole campaigns. Their services might also be
+judged of from the medals of the year 1812, which almost all the
+Russians bore, and to which all without distinction of rank are
+entitled, who were exposed to the enemy's fire during that campaign; and
+from the insignia of various orders, which in both the services extend
+to privates as well as officers. The effect of these honorary rewards on
+the minds of the men is certainly very great; and it is perhaps to be
+regretted that there is no institution of the same kind in the British
+service. The spirit of our soldiers, as all the world knows, needs no
+such stimulus; but if a measure of this kind could in any degree gratify
+their military feelings, surely their country owes them the
+gratification; and what can be more pleasing to a soldier than to see
+his officers and his Sovereign proud to display honours which he shares
+along with them? The Russians appear to set a value on these medals and
+decorations, which clearly shews the wisdom of the policy by which they
+were granted. Almost every wounded soldier wears them even when lying in
+hospital, and in the hour which teaches the insignificance of all the
+titles of kings, and all the treasures of the universe, he still
+rejoices, that he can lay these testimonies of his valour and fidelity
+beside the small crucifix which he brought with him from his home, and
+which, with a superstition that accords better with the true military
+spirit than the thoughtless infidelity of the French, he has carried in
+his bosom through all the chances of war.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+PARIS--ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+
+With whatever sentiments a stranger might enter Paris at the time we
+did, his feelings must have been the same with regard to the monuments
+of ancient magnificence, or of modern taste, which it contained. All
+that the vanity or patriotism of a long series of Sovereigns could
+effect for the embellishment of the capital in which they resided; all
+that the conquests of an ambitious and unprincipled Army could
+accumulate from the spoils of the nations whom they had subdued, were
+there presented to the eye of the stranger with a profusion which
+obliterated every former prejudice, and stifled the feelings of
+national emulation in exultation at the greatness of human genius.
+
+The ordinary buildings of Paris, as every traveller has observed, and as
+all the world knows, are in general mean and uncomfortable. The height
+and gloomy aspect of the houses; the narrowness of the streets, and the
+want of pavement for foot passengers, convey an idea of antiquity, which
+ill accords with what the imagination had anticipated of the modern
+capital of the French empire. This circumstance renders the admiration
+of the spectator greater when he first comes in sight of its _public
+edifices_; when he is conducted to the Place Louis Quinze, or the Pont
+Neuf, from whence he has a general view of the principal buildings of
+this celebrated capital. With the single exception of the view of London
+from the terrace of the Adelphi, there is no point in our own country
+where the effect of architectural design is so great as in the
+situations which have now been mentioned. The view from the former of
+these combines many of the most striking objects which Paris has to
+present. To the east, the long front of the Thuilleries rises over the
+dark mass of foliage which covers its gardens; to the south, the
+picturesque aspect of the town is broken by the varied objects which the
+river presents, and the fine perspective of the Bridge of Peace,
+terminating in the noble front of the palace of the Legislative Body; to
+the west, the long avenues of the Elysian Fields are closed by the
+pillars of a triumphal arch which Napoleon had commenced; while to the
+north, the beautiful façade of the Palace itself, leaves the spectator
+only room to discover at a greater distance the foundation of the Temple
+of Glory, which he had commenced, and in the execution of which he was
+interrupted by those ambitious enterprises to which his subsequent
+downfall was owing. To a painter's eye, the effect of the whole scene is
+increased by the rich and varied foreground which everywhere presents
+itself, composed of the shrubs with which the skirts of the square are
+adorned, and the lofty poplars which rise amidst the splendour of
+architectural beauty; while recent events give a greater interest to the
+spot from which this beauty is surveyed, by the remembrance, that it was
+here that Louis XVI. fell a martyr to the revolutionary principles, and
+that it was here that the Emperor Alexander and the other princes of
+Europe took their station, when their armies passed in triumph through
+the walls of Paris.
+
+The view from the Pont Neuf, though not so striking upon the whole,
+embraces objects of greater individual beauty. The gay and animated
+quays of the city covered with foot-passengers, and with all the varied
+exhibitions of industrious occupation, which, from the warmth of the
+climate, are carried on in the open air;--the long and splendid front of
+the Louvre and Thuilleries;--the bold projection of the Palais des Arts,
+of the Hotel de la Monnaie, and other public buildings on the opposite
+side of the river;--the beautiful perspective of the bridges, adorned by
+the magnificent colonnade which fronts the Palace of the Legislative
+Body;--and the lofty picturesque buildings of the centre of Paris
+surrounding the more elevated towers of Notre Dame, form a scene, which,
+though less perfect, is more striking, and more characteristic, than the
+scene from the centre of the Place Louis Quinze, which has been just
+described. It conveys at once a general idea of the French capital; of
+that mixture of poverty and splendour by which it is so remarkably
+distinguished; of that grandeur of national power, and that degradation
+of individual importance, which marked the ancient dynasty of the French
+nation. It marks too, in a historical view, the changes of the public
+feeling which the people of this country have undergone, from the
+distant period when the towers of Notre Dame rose amidst the austerity
+of Gothic taste, and were loaded with the riches of Catholic
+superstition, to that boasted æra, when the loyalty of the French people
+exhausted the wealth and the genius of the country, to decorate with
+classic taste the residence of their Sovereigns; and lastly, to those
+later days, when the names of religion and of loyalty have alike been
+forgotten; when the national exultation reposed only on the trophies of
+military greatness, and the iron yoke of imperial power was forgotten in
+the monuments which record the deeds of imperial glory.
+
+To the general observation on the inferiority of the common buildings in
+Paris, there are some remarkable exceptions. The Boulevards, the remains
+of the ancient ramparts of the city, are in general beautiful, from
+their circular form, from their uniform breadth, from the magnificence
+of the detached palaces with which they abound, and from the rows of
+fine trees with which they are shaded. In the skirts of the town, and
+more especially in the Fauxbourg St Germain, the beauty of the streets
+is greatly increased by the detached hotels or villas, surrounded by
+gardens, which are everywhere to be met with, in which the lilac, the
+laburnum, the Bois de Judeé, and the acacia, grow in the most luxuriant
+manner, and on the green foliage of which the eye reposes with singular
+delight amidst the bright and dazzling whiteness of the stone with
+which they are surrounded.
+
+The Hotel des Invalides, the Chelsea Hospital of France, is one of the
+objects on which the Parisians principally pride themselves, and to
+which a stranger is conducted immediately after his arrival in that
+capital. The institution itself appears to be well conducted, and to
+give general satisfaction to the wounded men who have there found an
+asylum from the miseries of war. We were informed that these men live in
+habits of perfect harmony among each other; a state of things widely
+different from that of our veterans in Greenwich Hospital, and which is
+probably chiefly owing to the cheerfulness and equanimity of temper
+which form the best feature in the French character. There is something
+in the style of the architecture of this building, which accords well
+with the object to which it is devoted. The front is distinguished by a
+simple manly portico, and a dome of the finest proportion rises above
+its centre, which is visible from all parts of the city. This dome was
+gilded by order of Bonaparte: and however much a fastidious taste may
+regret the addition, it certainly gave an air of splendour to the whole,
+which was in perfect unison with the feelings of exultation which the
+sight of this monument of military glory was then fitted to awaken
+among the French people. The exterior of this edifice was formerly
+surrounded by cannon captured by the armies of France at different
+periods: and ten thousand standards, the trophies of victory during the
+wars of two centuries, waved under its splendid dome, and enveloped the
+sword of Frederic the Great, which hung from the centre, until the 31st
+of March 1814, when, as already observed, they were all burnt by order
+of Maria Louisa, to prevent their falling into the victorious hands of
+the allied powers.
+
+If the character of the architecture of the Hotel des Invalides accords
+well with the object to which that building is destined, the character
+of the Louvre is not less in unison with the spirit of the fine arts, to
+which it is consecrated. It is impossible for language to convey any
+adequate idea of the impression which this exquisite building awakens in
+the mind of a stranger. The beautiful proportions, and the fine symmetry
+of the great façade, give an air of simplicity to the distant view of
+this edifice, which is not diminished, on nearer approach, by the
+unrivalled beauty of its ornaments and detail; but when you cross the
+threshold of the portico, and pass under its noble archway into the
+inner-court, all considerations are absorbed in the throb of admiration
+which is excited by the sudden display of all that is lovely and
+harmonious in Grecian architecture. You find yourself in the midst of
+the noblest and yet chastest display of architectural beauty, where
+every ornament possesses the character by which the whole is
+distinguished, and where the whole possesses the grace and elegance
+which every ornament presents:--You find yourself on the spot where all
+the monuments of ancient art are deposited;--where the greatest
+exertions of mortal genius are preserved--and where a palace has at last
+been raised worthy of being the depository of the collected genius of
+the human race.--It bears a higher character than that of being the
+residence of imperial power; it seems destined to loftier purposes than
+to be the abode of earthly greatness; and the only forms by which its
+halls would not be degraded, are those models of ideal perfection which
+the genius of ancient Greece created to exalt the character of a heathen
+world.
+
+Placed in a more elevated spot, and destined to a still higher object,
+the Pantheon bears in its front the traces of the noble purpose for
+which it was intended.--It was intended to be the cemetery of all the
+great men who had deserved well of their country; and it bears the
+inscription, above its entrance, _Aux grands Hommes La Patrie
+reconnoissante_. The character of its architecture is well adapted to
+the impression it is intended to convey, and suits the simplicity of the
+inscription which its portico presents. Its situation has been selected
+with singular taste, to aid the effect which was thus intended. It is
+placed at the top of an eminence, which shelves in a declivity on every
+side; and the immediate approach is by an immense flight of steps, which
+form the base of the building, and increase the effect which its
+magnitude produces. Over the entrance is placed a portico of lofty
+pillars, finely proportioned, supporting a magnificent entablature of
+the simplest order; and the whole terminates in a dome of vast
+dimensions, forming the highest object in the whole city. The impression
+which every one must feel in crossing its threshold, is that of
+religious awe; the individual is lost in the greatness of the objects
+with which he is surrounded, and he dreads to enter what seems the abode
+of a greater Power, and to have been framed for the purposes of more
+elevated worship. The Louvre might have been fitted for the gay scenes
+of ancient sacrifice; it suits the brilliant conceptions of heathen
+mythology; and seems the fit abode of those ideal forms, in which the
+imagination of ancient times embodied their conception of divine
+perfection; but the Pantheon is adapted for a holier worship, and
+accords with the character of a purer belief; and the vastness and
+solitude of its untrodden chambers awaken those feelings of human
+weakness, and that sentiment of human immortality, which befit the
+temple of a spiritual faith.
+
+We were involuntarily led, by the sight of this great monument of sacred
+architecture in the Grecian style, to compare it with the Gothic
+churches which we had seen, and in particular with the Cathedral of
+Beauvais, the interior of which is finished with greater delicacy, and
+in finer proportions, than any other edifice of a similar kind in
+France. The impression which the inimitable choir of Beauvais produced,
+was widely different from that which we felt on entering the lofty dome
+of the Pantheon at Paris. The light pinnacles, the fretted roof, the
+aspiring form of the Gothic edifice, seemed to have been framed by the
+hands of aerial beings, and produced, even from a distance, that
+impression of grace and airiness which it was the peculiar object of
+this species of Gothic architecture to excite. On passing the high
+archway which covers the western door, and entering the immense aisles
+of the Cathedral, the sanctity of the place produces a deeper
+impression, and the grandeur of the forms awakens profounder feelings.
+The light of the day is excluded, the rays of the sun come mellowed
+through the splendid colours with Which the windows are stained, and
+cast a religious light over the marble pavement which covers the floor;
+while the eye reposes on the harmonious forms of the lancet windows, or
+is bewildered in the profusion of ornament with which the roof is
+adorned. The impression which the whole produces, is that of religious
+emotion, singularly suited to the genius of Christianity; if is seen in
+that obscure light which fits the solemnity of religious duty, and
+awakens those feelings of intense delight, which prepare the mind for
+the high strain of religious praise. But it is not the deep feeling of
+humility and weakness which is produced by the dark chambers and massy
+pillars of the Pantheon at Paris; it is not in the mausoleum of the dead
+that you seem to wander, nor on the thoughts of the great that have gone
+before you that the mind revolves; it is in the scene of thanksgiving
+that your admiration is fixed; it is with the emblems of Hope that your
+devotion is awakened, and with the enthusiasm of gratitude that the
+mind is filled. Beneath the gloomy roof of the Grecian Temple, the
+spirit is concentrated within itself: it seeks the repose which solitude
+affords, and meditates on the fate of the immortal soul; but it loves to
+follow the multitude into the Gothic Cathedral, to join in the song of
+grateful praise which peals through its lengthened aisles, and to share
+in the enthusiasm which belongs to the exercise of common devotion.
+
+The Cathedral of Notre Dame is the only Gothic building of note in
+Paris, and it is by no means equal to the expectations we had been led
+to form of it. The style of its architecture is not that of the finest
+Gothic; it has neither the exquisite lightness of ornament which
+distinguishes the summit of Gloucester Cathedral, nor the fine lancet
+windows which give so unrivalled a beauty to the interior of Beauvais,
+nor the richness of roof which covers the tombs of Westminster Abbey.
+Its character is that of massy greatness; its ornaments are rich rather
+than elegant, and its interior striking more from its immense size than
+the beauty of the proportion in which it is formed. In spite of all
+these circumstances, however, the Cathedral of Notre Dame produces a
+deep impression on the mind of the beholder; its towers rise to a
+stupendous height above all the buildings which surround them; while
+the stone of every other edifice is of a light colour, they alone are
+black with the smoke of centuries; and exhibit a venerable aspect of
+ancient greatness in the midst of the brilliancy of modern decoration
+with which the city abounds. Even the crowd of ornaments with which they
+are loaded, and the heavy proportion in which they are built, are
+forgotten in the effect which their magnitude produces; they suit the
+gloomy character of the building they adorn, and accord with the
+expression of antiquated power by which its aged forms are now
+distinguished.
+
+To those who have been accustomed to the form of worship which is
+established in Protestant countries, there is nothing so striking in the
+Catholic churches as the complete oblivion of rank, or any of the
+distinctions of established society, which there universally prevails.
+There are no divisions of seats, nor any places fixed for any particular
+classes of society. All, of whatever rank or station, kneel alike upon
+the marble pavement; and the whole extent of the church is open for the
+devotion of all classes of the people. You frequently see the poorest
+citizens with their children kneeling on the stone close to those of the
+highest rank, or the most extensive fortunes. This custom may appear
+painful to those who have been habituated to the forms of devotion in
+the English churches; but it produces an impression on the mind of the
+spectator which nothing in our service is capable of effecting. To see
+the individual form lost in the immensity of the objects with which he
+is surrounded; to see all ranks and ages blended in the exercise of
+common devotion; to see all distinction forgotten in the sense of common
+infirmity, suits the spirit of that religion which was addressed to the
+poor as well as to the rich, and fits the presence of that Being before
+whom all ranks are equal.
+
+Nor is it without a good effect upon the feelings of mankind, that this
+custom has formed a part of the Catholic service. Amidst that
+degradation of the great body of the people, which marks the greater
+part of the Catholic countries--amidst the insolence of aristocratic
+power, which the doctrines of the Catholic faith are so well suited to
+support, it is fitting that there should be some occasions on which the
+distinctions of the world should be forgotten; some moments in which the
+rich as well as the poor should be humbled before a greater power--in
+which they should be reminded of the common faith in which they have
+been baptized, of the common duties to which they are called, and the
+common hopes which they have been permitted to form.
+
+We had the good fortune to see high mass performed in Notre Dame, with
+all the pomp of the Catholic service, for the souls of Louis XVI. Marie
+Antoinette, and the Dauphin, on May 16, 1814, soon after the King's
+arrival in Paris. The Cathedral was hung with black in every part; the
+brilliancy of day wholly excluded, and it was lighted only by double
+rows of wax tapers, which burned round the coffins, placed in the centre
+of the choir. It was crowded to excess in every part; all the Marshals,
+Peers, and dignitaries of France, were stationed with the Royal Family
+near the centre of the Cathedral, and all the principal officers of the
+allied armies attended at the celebration of the service. The King was
+present, though without being perceived by the vast assembly by whom he
+was surrounded; and the Duchess d'Angouleme exhibited, in this
+melancholy duty, that mixture of firmness and sensibility by which her
+character has always been distinguished.
+
+It was said, that there were several persons present at this solemn
+service who had voted for the death of the King; and many of those
+assembled must doubtless have been conscious that they had been
+instrumental in the death of those for whose souls this solemn service
+was now performing. The greater part, however, of those whom we had an
+opportunity of observing, exhibited the symptoms of genuine sorrow, and
+seemed to participate in the solemnity with unfeigned devotion. The
+Catholic worship was here displayed in its utmost splendour; all the
+highest prelates of France were assembled to give dignity to the
+spectacle; and all that art could devise was exhausted to render the
+scene impressive in the eyes of the people. To us, however, who had been
+habituated to the simplicity of the English form, the variety of
+unmeaning ceremony, the endless gestures and unceasing bows of the
+clergy who officiated, destroyed the impression which the solemnity of
+the service would otherwise have produced. But though the service itself
+appeared ridiculous, the effect of the whole scene was sublime in the
+greatest degree. The black tapestry hung in heavy folds round the sides
+of the Cathedral, and magnified the impression which its vastness
+produced. The tapers which surrounded the coffins threw a red and gloomy
+light over the innumerable multitude which thronged the floor; their
+receding rays faintly illuminated the farther recesses, or strained to
+pierce the obscure gloom in which the summits of the pillars were lost;
+while the sacred music pealed through the distant aisles, and deepened
+the effect of the thousands of voices which joined in the strains of
+repentant prayer.
+
+Among the exhibitions of art to which a stranger is conducted
+immediately after his arrival in the French metropolis, there is none
+which is more characteristic of the disposition of the people than the
+_Musèe des Monumens François_, situated in the Rue des Petits Angustins.
+This is a collection of all the finest sepulchral monuments from
+different parts of France, particularly from the Cathedral of St Denis,
+where the cemetery of the royal family had, from time immemorial, been
+placed. It is said by the French, that the collection of these monuments
+into one museum was the only means of preserving them from the fury of
+the people during the revolution; and certainly nothing but absolute
+necessity could have justified the barbarous idea of bringing them from
+the graves they were intended to adorn, to one spot, where all
+associations connected with them are destroyed. It is not the mere
+survey of the monuments of the dead that is interesting,--not the
+examination of the specimens of art by which they may be adorned;--it is
+the remembrance of the deeds which they are intended to record,--of the
+virtues they are destined to perpetuate,--- of the pious gratitude of
+which they are now the only testimony--above all, of the dust they
+actually cover. They remind us of the great men who formerly filled the
+theatre of the world,--they carry us back to an age which, by a very
+natural illusion, we conceive to have been both wiser and happier than
+our own, and present the record of human greatness in that pleasing
+distance when the great features of character alone are remembered, when
+time has drawn its veil over the weaknesses of mortality, and its
+virtues are sanctified by the hand of death. It is a feeling fitted to
+elevate the soul; to mingle the thoughts of death with the recollection
+of the virtues by which life had been dignified, and renovate in every
+heart those high hopes of religion which spring from, the grave of
+former virtue.
+
+All this delightful, this purifying illusion, is destroyed by the way in
+which the monuments are collected in the Museum at Paris. They are there
+brought together from all parts of France; severed from the ashes of the
+dead they were intended to cover; and arranged in systematic order to
+illustrate the history of the art whose progress they unfold. The tombs
+of all the Kings of France, of the Generals by whom its glory has been
+extended, of the statesmen by whom its power, and the writers by whom
+its fame has been established, are crowded together in one collection,
+and heaped upon each other, without any other connexion than that of the
+time in which they were originally raised. The Museum accordingly
+exhibits, in the most striking manner, the power of arrangement and
+classification which the French possess; it is valuable, as containing
+fine models of the greatest men whom France has produced, and exhibits a
+curious specimen of the progress of art, from its first commencement to
+the period of its greatest perfection; but it has wholly lost that deep
+and peculiar interest which belongs to the monuments of the dead in
+their original situation.
+
+Adjoining to the Museum, is a garden planted with trees, in which many
+of the finest monuments are placed; but in which the depravity of the
+French taste appears in the most striking manner. It is surrounded with
+houses, and darkened by the shade of lofty buildings; yet, in this
+gloomy situation, they have placed the tomb of Fenelon, and the united
+monument of Abelard and Eloise: profaning thus, by the barbarous
+affectation of artificial taste, and the still more shocking imitation
+of ancient superstition, the remains of those whose names are enshrined
+in every heart which can feel the beauty of moral excellence, or share
+in the sympathy with youthful sorrow.
+
+How different are the feelings with which an Englishman surveys the
+untouched monuments of English greatness!--and treads the floor of that
+venerable building which shrouds the remains of all who have dignified
+their native land--in which her patriots, her poets, and her
+philosophers, "sleep with her kings, and dignify the scene," which the
+rage of popular fury has never dared to profane, and the hand of
+victorious power has never been able to violate; where the ashes of the
+immortal dead still lie in undisturbed repose, under that splendid roof
+which covered the tombs of her earliest kings, and witnessed, from its
+first dawn, the infant glory of the English people.--Nor could the
+remembrance of the national monuments we have described, ever excite in
+the mind of a native of France, the same feeling of heroic devotion
+which inspired the sublime expression of Nelson, as he boarded the
+Spanish Admiral's ship at St Vincent's--"Westminster Abbey or Victory!"
+
+Though the streets in Paris have an aged and uncomfortable appearance,
+the form of the houses is such, as, at a distance, to present a
+picturesque aspect. Their height, their sharp and irregular tops, the
+vast variety of forms which they assume when seen from different
+quarters, all combine to render a distant view of them more striking
+than the long rows of uniform houses of which London is composed. The
+domes and steeples of Paris, however, are greatly inferior, both in
+number and magnificence, to those of the English capital.
+
+The gardens of the Thuilleries and the Luxembourg, of which the
+Parisians think so highly, and which are constantly filled with all
+ranks of citizens, are laid out with a singularity of taste, of which,
+in this country, we can scarcely form any conception. The straight
+walks--the clipt trees--the marble fountains--are fast wearing out in
+all parts of England; they are to be met with only round the mansions of
+ancient families, and even there are kept rather from the influence of
+ancient prejudice, or from the affection to hereditary forms, than from
+their coincidence with the present taste of the English people. They are
+seldom, accordingly, disagreeable, with us, to the eye of the most
+cultivated taste; their singularity forms a pleasing variety to the
+continued succession of lawns and shrubberies which is every where to be
+met with; and they are regarded rather as the venerable marks of
+ancient splendour, than as the barbarous affectation of modern
+distinction. In France, the native deformity of this taste appears in
+its real light, without the colouring of any such adventitious
+circumstances as conceal it in this country. It does not appear there
+under the softening veil of ancient manners; its avenues do not conduct
+to the decaying abode of hereditary greatness--its gardens do not mark
+the scenes of former festivity--its fountains are not covered with the
+moss which has grown for centuries. It appears as the model of present
+taste; it is considered as the indication of existing splendour; and
+sought after, as the form in which the beauty of Nature is now to be
+admired. All that association accordingly had blended in our minds with
+the style of ancient gardening in our own country, was instantly
+divested by its appearance in France; and we felt then the whole
+importance of that happy change in the national taste, whereby variety
+has been made to succeed to uniformity, and the imitation of nature to
+come in the place of the exhibition of art.
+
+In every country, and in every department of taste, the earliest object
+of art is, the display of the power of the artist; and it is in the last
+period of its improvements alone, that this miserable propensity is
+overcome. It is hence that the imitation of Nature is not what is at
+first attempted; that the forms which she presents are uniformly
+neglected, and the merit of the artist is thought to consist in such
+artificial designs as bear the most unequivocal marks of his individual
+dexterity. The forms of nature are every where to be met with--they are
+open to the most vulgar capacity; the power of art, therefore, it is at
+first thought, must be shown in the complete subjugation of natural
+form, or the complete abandonment of natural beauty. It is hence that
+florists uniformly take delight in double flowers and monsters, which
+are the farthest removed from the forms of nature; and it is hence that
+gardeners always evince so great an anxiety to conduct strangers to the
+most ridiculous contortion of natural form, which their domains can
+exhibit. There is nothing unnatural or vulgar in this propensity; it
+pervades all branches of taste at a certain stage of its progress, and
+all ranks of society, to whom a limited capacity of mind is granted. It
+is hence that every society exhibits examples of individuals, who aim at
+singularity of manners, merely that they may be different from the
+generality of mankind; it is hence that many persons, even of a
+cultivated mind, shut their eye to the charms of beauty in every
+department of taste, merely that they may display their own wretched
+vanity in criticising its imperfections; it is hence that painters
+select the moment of passion or exertion, for no other reason than for
+the display of their anatomical knowledge, or their skill in the
+delineation of extraordinary emotion; and that poets have so often
+neglected what is really pathetic in the scenes, either of nature or of
+man, to present the artificial conceptions of their learning or fancy.
+In all these instances, the degradation of taste arises from the vain
+anxiety of men to display the power of the artist, and their utter
+forgetfulness of the end of the Art.
+
+The remarkable characteristic of the taste of France is, that this love
+of artificial beauty continues with undiminished force, at a period
+when, in other nations, it has given place to a more genuine love for
+the beauty of nature. In them, the natural progress of refinement has
+led from the admiration of the art of imitation to the love of the
+subjects imitated. In France, this early prejudice, continues in its
+pristine vigour at the present moment: They never lose sight of the
+effort of the artist; their admiration is fixed not on the quality or
+object in nature, but on the artificial representation of it; not on the
+thing signified, but the sign. It is hence that they have such exalted
+ideas of the perfection of their artist David, whose paintings are
+nothing more than a representation of the human figure in its most
+extravagant and phrenzied attitudes; that they are insensible to the
+simple display of real emotion, but dwell with delight upon the vehement
+representation of it which their stage exhibits; and that, leaving the
+charming heights of Belleville, or the sequestered banks of the Seine,
+almost wholly deserted, they crowd to the stiff alleys of the Elysian
+Fields, or the artificial beauties of the gardens of Versailles.
+
+In the midst of Paris this artificial style of gardening is not
+altogether unpleasing; it is in unison, in some measure, with the
+regular character of the buildings with which it is surrounded; and the
+profusion of statues and marble vases continues the impression which the
+character of their palaces is fitted to produce. But at Versailles, at
+St Cloud, and Fountainbleau, amidst the luxuriance of vegetation, and
+surrounded by the majesty of forest scenery, it destroys altogether the
+effect which arises from the irregularity of natural beauty. Every one
+feels straight borders, and square porticoes and broad alleys, to be in
+unison with the immediate neighbourhood of an antiquated mansion; but
+they become painful when extended to those remoter parts of the
+grounds, when the character of the scene is determined by the rudeness
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+There are some occasions, nevertheless, on which the gardens of the
+Thuilleries present a beautiful spectacle, in spite of the artificial
+taste in which they are formed. From the warmth of the climate, the
+Parisians, of all classes, live much in the open air, and frequent the
+public gardens in great numbers during the continuance of the fine
+weather. In the evening especially, they are filled with citizens, who
+repose themselves under the shade of the lofty trees, after the heat and
+the fatigues of the day; and they then present a spectacle of more than
+ordinary interest and beauty. The disposition of the French suits the
+character of the scene, and harmonises with the impression which the
+stillness of the evening produces on the mind. There is none of that
+rioting or confusion by which an assembly of the middling classes in
+England is too often disgraced; no quarrelling or intoxication even
+among the poorest ranks, and little appearance of that degrading want
+which destroys the pleasing idea of public happiness. The people appear
+all to enjoy a certain share of individual prosperity; their intercourse
+is conducted with unbroken harmony, and they seem to resign themselves
+to those delightful feelings which steal over the mind during the
+stillness and serenity of a summer evening.
+
+Still more beautiful perhaps, is the appearance of this scene during the
+stillness of the night, when the moon throws her dubious rays over the
+objects of nature. The gardens of the Thuilleries remain crowded with
+people, who seem to enjoy the repose which universally prevails, and
+from whom no sound is to be heard which can break the stillness or
+serenity of the scene. The regularity of the forms is wholly lost in the
+masses of light and shadow that are there displayed; the foliage throws
+a chequered shade over the ground beneath, while the different vistas of
+the Elysian Fields are seen in that soft and mellow light by which the
+radiance of the moon is so peculiarly distinguished. After passing
+through these favourite scenes of the French people, we frequently came
+to small encampments of the allied troops in the remote parts of the
+grounds. The appearance of these bivouacks, composed of Cossack
+squadrons, Hungarian hussars, or Prussian artillery, in the obscurity of
+moonlight, and surrounded by the gloom of forest scenery, was beyond
+measure striking. The picturesque forms of the soldiers, sleeping on
+their arms under the shade of the trees, or half hid by the rude huts
+which they had erected for their shelter; the varied attitudes of the
+horses standing amidst the waggons by which the camp was followed, or
+sleeping beside the veterans whom they had borne through all the
+fortunes of war; the dark masses of the artillery, dimly discerned in
+the shades of night, or faintly reflecting the pale light of the moon,
+presented a scene of the most beautiful description, in which the rude
+features of war were softened by the tranquillity of peaceful life; and
+the interest of present repose was enhanced by the remembrance of the
+wintry storms and bloody fields through which these brave men had
+passed, during the memorable campaigns in which they had been engaged.
+The effect of the whole was increased by the perfect stillness which
+everywhere prevailed, broken only at intervals by the slow step of the
+sentinel, as he paced his rounds, or the sweeter sounds of those
+beautiful airs, which, in a far distant country, recalled to the Russian
+soldier the joys and the happiness of his native land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+ENVIRONS OF PARIS.
+
+
+St Cloud was the favourite residence of Bonaparte, and, from this
+circumstance, possesses an interest which does not belong to the other
+imperial palaces. It stands high, upon a lofty bank overhanging the
+Seine, which takes a bold sweep in the plain below; and the steep
+declivity which descends to its banks is clothed with magnificent woods
+of aged elms. The character of the scenery is bold and rugged;--the
+trees are of the wildest forms, and the most stupendous height, and the
+banks, for the most part, steep and irregular. It is here, accordingly,
+that the French gardening appears in all its genuine deformity; and that
+its straight walks and endless fountains display a degree of formality
+and art, destructive of the peculiar beauty by which the scene is
+distinguished. These gardens, however, were the favourite and private
+walks of the Emperor;--it was here that he meditated those schemes of
+ambition which were destined to shake the established thrones of
+Europe;--it was under the shade of this luxuriant foliage that he formed
+the plan of all the mighty projects which he had in contemplation;--it
+was in the splendid apartments of this palace that the Councils of
+France assembled, to revolve on the means of permanently destroying the
+English power:--It was here too, by a most remarkable coincidence, that
+his destruction was finally accomplished;--that the last convention was
+concluded, by which his second dethronement was completed;--and that the
+victorious arms of England dictated the terms of surrender to his
+conquered capital.
+
+When we visited St Cloud, it was the head-quarters of Prince
+Schwartzenberg; and the Austrian grenadiers mounted guard at the gates
+of the Imperial Palace. The banks of the Seine, below the Palace, were
+covered by an immense bivouack of Austrian troops, and the fires of
+their encampment twinkled in the obscurity of twilight amidst the low
+brushwood with which the sides of the river were clothed. The
+appearance of this bivouack, dimly discerned through the rugged stems of
+lofty trees, or half-hid by the luxuriant branches which obscured the
+view;--the picturesque and varied aspect of the plain covered with
+waggons, and all the accompaniments of military service;--the columns of
+smoke rising from the fires with which it was interspersed, and the
+innumerable horses crowded amidst the confused multitude of men and
+carriages, or resting in more sequestered spots on the sides of the
+river, with their forms finely reflected in its unruffled
+waters--presented a spectacle which exhibited war in its most striking
+aspect, and gave a character to the scene which would have suited the
+romantic strain of Salvator's mind.
+
+St Germain, though less picturesquely situated than St Cloud, presents
+features, nevertheless, of more than ordinary magnificence. The Palace,
+now converted into a school of military education by Napoleon, is a mean
+irregular building, though it possesses a certain interest, by having
+been long the residence of the exiled house of Stuart. The situation,
+however, is truly fitted for an imperial dwelling; it stands on the edge
+of a high bank overhanging the Seine, at the end a magnificent terrace,
+a mile and a half long, built on the projecting heights which edge the
+river. The walk along this terrace is the finest spectacle which the
+vicinity of Paris has to present. It is backed along its whole extent by
+the extensive forest of St Germain, the foliage of which overhangs the
+road, and in the recesses of which you can occasionally discern those
+beautiful peeps which form the peculiar characteristic of forest
+scenery. The steep bank which descends to the river is clothed with
+orchards and vineyards in all the luxuriance of a southern climate; and
+in front, there is spread beneath your feet the wide plain in which the
+Seine wanders, whose waters are descried at intervals through the woods
+and gardens with which its banks are adorned; while, in the farthest
+distance, the towers of St Denis, and the heights of Paris, form an
+irregular outline on the verge of the horizon. It is a scene exhibiting
+the most beautiful aspect of cultivated nature, and would have been the
+fit residence for a Monarch who loved to survey his subjects' happiness:
+but it was deserted by the miserable weakness of Louis XIV., because the
+view terminated in the cemetery of the Kings of France, and his
+enjoyment of it would have been destroyed by the thoughts of mortal
+decay.
+
+Versailles, which that monarch chose as the ordinary abode of his
+splendid Court, is less favourably situate for a royal dwelling, though
+the view from the great front of the palace is beautifully clothed with
+luxuriant woods. The palace itself is a magnificent building of great
+extent, loaded with the riches of architectural beauty, but destitute of
+that fine proportion and lightness of ornament, which spread so
+indescribable a charm over the Palace of the Louvre. The interior is in
+a state of lamentable decay, having been pillaged at the commencement of
+the revolutionary fury, and formed into a barrack for the republican
+soldiers, the marks of whose violence are still visible in the faded
+splendour of its magnificent apartments. They still shew, however, the
+favourite rooms of Marie Antoinette, the walls of which are covered with
+the finest mirrors, and some remains of the furniture are still
+preserved, which even the licentious fury of the French army seems to
+have been afraid to violate. The gardens on which all the riches of
+France, and all the efforts of art, were so long lavished, present a
+painful monument of the depravity of taste: but the _Petit Trianon_,
+which is a little palace built of marble, and surrounded by shrubberies
+in the English style, exhibits the genuine beauty of which the
+imitation of nature is susceptible. This palace contains a suite of
+splendid apartments, fitted up with singular taste, and adorned with a
+number of charming pictures; it was the favourite residence of Maria
+Louisa, and we were there shewn the drawing materials which she used,
+and some unfinished sketches which she left, in which, we were informed,
+she much delighted, and which bore the marks of a cultivated taste.
+
+We frequently enquired concerning the character and occupations of this
+Empress, at all the palaces where she usually dwelt, and uniformly
+received the same answer:--She was everywhere represented as cold,
+proud, and haughty in her manner, and unconciliating in her ordinary
+address. Her time was much spent in private, in the exercise of
+religious duty, or in needle-work and drawing; and her favourite seat at
+St Cloud was between two windows, from one of which she had a view over
+the beautiful woods which clothe the banks of the river, and from the
+other a distant prospect of the towers and domes of Paris.
+
+Very different was the character which belonged to the former Empress,
+the first wife of Bonaparte, Josephine: She passed the close of her life
+at the delightful retreat of Malmaison, a villa charmingly situated on
+the banks of the Seine, seven miles from Paris, on the road to St
+Germain. This villa had been her favourite residence while she continued
+Empress, and formed her only home after the period of her divorce;--here
+she lived in obscurity and retirement, without any of the pomp of a
+court, or any of the splendour which belonged to her former
+rank,--occupied entirely in the employment of gardening, or in
+alleviating the distresses of those around her. The shrubberies and
+gardens were laid out with singular beauty, in the English taste, and
+contained a vast variety of rare flowers, which she had for a long
+period been collecting. These shrubberies were to her the source of
+never-failing enjoyment; she spent many hours in them every day, working
+herself, or superintending the occupations of others; and in these
+delightful occupations seemed to return again to all the innocence and
+happiness of youth. She was beloved to the greatest degree by all the
+poor who inhabited the vicinity of her retreat, both for the gentleness
+of her manner, and her unwearied attention to their sufferings and their
+wants; and during the whole period of her retirement, she retained the
+esteem and affection of all classes of French citizens. The Emperor
+Alexander visited her repeatedly during the stay of the allied armies
+in Paris; and her death occasioned an universal feeling of regret,
+rarely to be met with amidst the corruption and selfishness of the
+French metropolis.
+
+There was something singularly striking in the history and character of
+this remarkable woman:--Born in a humble station, without any of the
+advantages which rank or education could afford, she was early involved
+in all the unspeakable miseries of the French revolution, and was
+extricated from her precarious situation only by being united to that
+extraordinary man, whose crimes and whose ambition have spread misery
+through every country of Europe: Rising through all the gradations of
+rank through which he passed, she everywhere commanded the esteem and
+regard of all those who had access to admire her private virtues; and
+when at length she was raised to the rank of Empress, she graced the
+imperial throne with all the charities and virtues of a humbler station.
+She bore, with unexampled magnanimity, the sacrifice of power and of
+influence which she was compelled to make: She carried into the
+obscurity of humble life all the dignity of mind which befitted the
+character of an Empress of France; and exercised, in the delightful
+occupations of country life, or in the alleviation of the severity of
+individual distress, that firmness of mind and gentleness of
+disposition, with which she had lightened the weight of imperial
+dominion, and softened the rigour of despotic power.
+
+The Forest of Fontainbleau exhibits scenery of a more picturesque and
+striking character than is to be met with in any other part of the north
+of France. It is situated 40 miles from Paris, on the great road to
+Rome, and the appearance of the country through which this road runs, is
+for the most part flat and uninteresting. It runs through a continued
+plain, in a straight line between tall rows of elm trees, whose lower
+branches are uniformly cut off for firewood to the peasantry; and
+exhibits, for the most part, no other feature than the continued riches
+of agricultural produce. At the distance of seven miles from the town of
+Fontainbleau, you first discern the forest, covering a vast ridge of
+rocks, stretching as far as the eye can reach, from right to left, and
+presenting a dark irregular outline on the surface of the horizon. The
+cultivation continues, with all its uniformity, to the very foot of the
+ridge; but the moment you pass the boundaries of the forest, you find
+yourself surrounded at once with all the wildness and luxuriance of
+natural scenery. The surface of the ground is broken and irregular,
+rising at times into vast piles of shapeless rocks, and enclosing at
+others small vallies, in which the wood grows in endless beauty,
+unblighted by the chilling blasts of northern climates. In these
+vallies, the oak, the ash, and the beech, exhibit the peculiar
+magnificence of forest scenery, while, on the neighbouring hills, the
+birch waves its airy foliage round the dark masses of rock which
+terminate the view. Nothing can be conceived more striking than the
+scenery which this variety of rock and wood produce in every part of
+this romantic forest. At times you pass through an unbroken mass of aged
+timber, surrounded by the native grandeur of forest scenery, and
+undisturbed by any traces of human habitation, except in those rude
+paths which occasionally open a passing view into the remoter parts of
+the forest. At others, the path winds through great masses of rock,
+piled in endless confusion upon each other, in the crevices of which the
+fern and the heath grow in all the luxuriance of southern vegetation;
+while their summits are covered by aged oaks of the wildest forms, whose
+crossing boughs throw an eternal shade over the ravines below, and
+afford room only to discern at the farthest distance the summits of
+those beautiful hills, on which the light foliage of the birch trembles
+in the ray of an unclouded sun, or waves on the blue of a summer
+heaven.
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the beautiful scenery of
+the Trosachs in Scotland, of Matlock in Derbyshire, or of the wooded
+Fells in Cumberland, it may afford some idea of the Forest of
+Fontainbleau, to say that it combines scenery of a similar description
+with the aged magnificence of Windsor Forest. Over its whole extent
+there are scattered many detached oaks of vast dimensions, which seem to
+be of an older race in the growth of the Forest,--whose lowest boughs
+stretch above the top of the wood which surrounds them,--and whose
+decayed summits afford a striking contrast to the young and luxuriant
+foliage with which their stems are enveloped. When we visited
+Fontainbleau, it was occupied by the old imperial guard, which still
+remained in that station after the abdication of Bonaparte; and we
+frequently met parties, or detached stragglers of them, wandering in the
+most solitary parts of the Forest. Their warlike and weather-beaten
+appearance; their battered arms and worn accoutrements; the dark plumes
+of their helmets, and the sallow ferocious aspect of their countenances,
+suited the savage character of the scenery with which they were
+surrounded, and threw over the gloom and solitude of the Forest that
+wild expression with which the genius of Salvator dignified the features
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+The town and palace of Fontainbleau are situate in a small plain near
+the centre of the forest, and surrounded on all sides by the rocky
+ridges with which it is everywhere intersected. The palace is a large
+irregular building, composed of many squares, and fitted up in the
+inside with the utmost splendour of imperial magnificence. We were there
+shewn the apartments in which Napoleon dwelt during his stay in the
+palace, after the capture of Paris by the allied troops; and the desk at
+which he always wrote, and where his abdication was signed. It was
+covered with white leather, scratched over in every direction, and
+marked with innumerable wipings of the pen, among which we perceived his
+own name, Napoleon, frequently written as in a very hurried and
+irregular hand; and one sentence which began, Que Dieu, Napoleon,
+Napoleon. The servants in the palace agreed in stating, that the
+Emperor's gaiety and fortitude of mind never deserted him during the
+ruin of his fortune; that he was engaged in his writing-chamber during
+the greater part of the day, and walked for two hours on the terrace, in
+close conversation with Marshal Ney. Several officers of the imperial
+guard repeated the speech which he made to his troops on leaving them
+after his abdication of the throne, which was precisely what appeared
+in the English newspapers. So great was the enthusiasm produced by this
+speech among the soldiers present, that it was received with shouts and
+cries of Vive l'Empereur, A Paris, A Paris! and when he departed under
+the custody of the allied Commissioners, the whole army wept; there was
+not a dry eye in the multitude who were assembled to witness his
+departure. Even the imperial guard, who had been trained in scenes of
+suffering from their first entry into the service--who had been inured
+for a long course of years to the daily sight of human misery, and had
+constantly made a sport of all the afflictions which are fitted to move
+the human heart, shared in the general grief; they seemed to forget the
+degradation in which their commander was involved, the hardships to
+which they had been exposed, and the destruction which he had brought
+upon their brethren in arms; they remembered him when he stood
+victorious on the field of Austerlitz, or passed in triumph through the
+gates of Moscow; and shed over the fall of their Emperor those tears of
+genuine sorrow which they denied to the deepest scenes of private
+suffering, or the most aggravated instances of individual distress. It
+is impossible not to regret that feelings so exalting to human nature
+should have been awakened by one who shared so little in their
+enthusiasm himself; that the sufferings of thousands should have been
+forgotten in the fate of one to whom the miseries of others never
+afforded a subject of regret; and that the only occasion on which
+generous sentiments were manifested by the French army, should have been
+the overthrow of that power by which their ambition and their wickedness
+had been supported.
+
+We had the good fortune to see the infantry of the old guard drawn up in
+line in the streets of Fontainbleau, and their appearance was such as
+fully answered the idea we had formed of that body of veteran soldiers,
+who had borne the French eagles through every capital of Europe. Their
+aspect was bold and martial; there was a keenness in their eyes which
+bespoke the characteristic intelligence of the French soldiers, and a
+ferocity in the expression of their countenances which seemed to have
+been unsubdued even by the unparalleled disasters in which their country
+had been involved. The people of the town itself complained in the
+bitterest terms of their licentious conduct, and repeatedly said, that
+they dreaded them more as friends than the Cossacks themselves as
+enemies. They seemed to harbour the most unbounded resentment against
+the people of this country; their countenances bore the expression of
+the strongest enmity as we walked along their line, and we frequently
+heard them mutter among themselves, in the most emphatic manner, _Sacre
+Dieu, voila des Anglois!_--Whatever the atrocity of their conduct,
+however, might have been, to the people of their own, as well as every
+other country, it was impossible not to feel the strongest emotion at
+the sight of the veteran soldiers whose exploits had so long rivetted
+the attention of all who felt an interest in the civilized world. These
+were the men who first raised the glory of the republican armies on the
+plains of Italy; who survived the burning climate of Egypt, and chained
+victory to the imperial standards at Jena, at Austerlitz, and at
+Friedland--who followed the career of victory to the walls of the
+Kremlin, and marched undaunted through the ranks of death amid the snows
+of Russia;--who witnessed the ruin of France under the walls of Leipsic,
+and struggled to save her falling fortune on the heights of Laon; and
+who preserved, in the midst of national humiliation, and when surrounded
+by the mighty foreign Powers, that undaunted air and unshaken firmness,
+which, even in the moment of defeat, commanded the respect of their
+antagonists in arms.
+
+Beyond the town of Fontainbleau, there rises a ridge of steep hills,
+which prevents any view in that direction into the distant parts of the
+forest. The road to their summit lies through the Imperial Gardens, and
+is surrounded by the artificial forms and regular walks which mark the
+character of the French gardening. When you reach the summit, however,
+the character of the scene instantly changes, and you pass at once into
+the utmost wildness of desolated nature. The foreground is broken by
+barren rock, or covered with the beautiful forms of the weeping birch;
+immediately below there lies a lonely valley, strewed with masses of
+grey stone, without the slightest trace of human habitation, while, in
+the farthest distance, the forest is discerned, clothing the sides of
+those broken ridges which rise in endless confusion on the surface of
+the horizon. At the moment when we reached this spot, the sun was
+setting in the west; the cold grey of the stone which covered the
+ravines was dimly discerned through the obscure light which the approach
+of night produced, while the rugged outline of the rocks beyond was
+projected in the deepest shadow on the bright light of the departing
+day.
+
+There is no scenery round Paris so striking as the forest of
+Fontainbleau, but the heights of Belleville exhibit nature in a more
+pleasing aspect, and are distinguished by features of a gentler
+character. Montmartre, and the ridge of Belleville, form those
+celebrated heights which command Paris on the northern side, and which
+were so obstinately contested between the allies and the French on the
+30th March 1814, previous to the capture of Paris by the allied
+Sovereigns. Montmartre is covered for the most part with houses, and
+presents nothing to attract the eye of the observer, except the
+extensive view which is to be met with at its summit. The heights of
+Belleville, however, are varied with wood, with orchards, vineyards, and
+gardens, interspersed with cottages and villas, and cultivated with the
+utmost care. There are few inclosures, but the whole extent of the
+ground is thickly studded with walnuts, fruit-trees, and forest timber,
+which, from a distance, give it the appearance of one continued wood. On
+a nearer approach, however, you find it intersected in every direction
+by small paths, which wind among the vineyards, or through the woods
+with which the hills are covered, and present at every turn those
+charming little scenes which form the peculiar characteristic of
+woodland scenery. The cottages half hid by the profusion of
+fruit-trees, or embosomed in the luxuriant woods with which they are
+everywhere surrounded, increase the interest which the scenery itself is
+fitted to produce: they combine the delightful idea of the peasant's
+enjoyment with the beauty of the spot on which his dwelling is placed;
+and awaken, in the midst of the boundless luxuriance of vegetable
+nature, those deeper feelings of moral delight, which spring from the
+contemplation of human happiness.
+
+To a northern eye, there is nothing so delightful as this luxuriance of
+vegetation, which rises amidst the warmth of southern climates. The
+sterile rocks and rugged mountains of northern regions exhibit nature in
+her native rudeness, her features bear a harsher aspect, and her forms
+are expressive of more melancholy feeling; but under the genial warmth
+of a southern sun, she is arrayed in a robe of softer colours, and beams
+with the expression of a gentler character. She there appears surrounded
+by the luxuriance of vegetable life: she pours forth her bounty with a
+profusion which the partizans of utility would call prodigality, and
+covers the earth with a splendour of beauty, which serves no other
+purpose than to minister to the delight of human existence. Amidst the
+riches with which man is surrounded, his destiny appears happier than
+in more desolate situations; we forget the sufferings of the individual
+in the profusion of beauty with which he is surrounded; and impute to
+the inhabitants of these delightful regions, those feelings of happiness
+which spring in our own minds from the contemplation of the scenery in
+which they are placed.
+
+The effect of the charming scenery on the heights of Belleville is much
+increased by the distant objects which terminate some parts of the view.
+To the east, the high and gloomy towers of Vincennes rise over the
+beautiful woods with which the sides of the hill are adorned, and give
+an air of solemnity to the scene, arising from the remembrance of the
+tragic events of which it was the theatre. To the south, the domes and
+spires of Paris can occasionally be discovered through the openings of
+the wood with which the foreground is enriched, and present the capital
+at that pleasing distance, when the minuter part of the buildings are
+concealed, when its prominent features alone are displayed, and the
+whole is softened by the obscure light which distance throws over the
+objects of nature. To an English mind, the effect of the whole is
+infinitely increased, by the animating associations with which this
+scenery is connected;--by the remembrance of the mighty struggle between
+freedom and slavery, which was here terminated;--of the heroic deeds
+which were here performed, and the unequalled magnanimity which was here
+displayed. It was here that the expiring efforts of military despotism
+were overthrown--that the armies of Russia stood triumphant over the
+power of France, and nobly avenged the ashes of their own capital, by
+sparing that of their prostrate enemy.
+
+When we visited the heights of Belleville, the traces of the recent
+struggle were visibly imprinted on the villages and woods with which the
+hill is covered. The marks of blood were still to be discerned on the
+chaussée which leads through the village of Pantin; the elm trees which
+line the road were cut asunder, or bored through with cannon shot, and
+their stems riddled in many parts with the incessant fire of the grape
+shot. The houses in La Villette, Belleville and Pantin, were covered
+with the marks of musket shot; the windows of many were shattered, or
+wholly destroyed, and the interior of the rooms broken by the balls
+which seemed to have pierced every part of the buildings. So thickly
+were the houses in some places covered with these marks, that it
+appeared almost incredible how any one could have escaped from so
+destructive a fire. Even the beautiful gardens with which the slope of
+the heights are adorned, and the inmost recesses of the wood of
+Romainville, bore throughout the marks of the desperate struggles which
+they had lately witnessed, and exhibited the symptoms of fracture or
+destruction in the midst of the luxuriance of natural beauty; yet,
+though they had so recently been the scene of mortal combat; though the
+ashes of the dead yet lay in heaps on different parts of the field of
+battle, the prolific powers of nature were undecayed: the vines
+clustered round the broken fragments of the instruments of war,--the
+corn spread a sweeter green over the fields, which were yet wet with
+human blood, and the trees waved with renovated beauty over the
+uncoffined remains of the departed brave; emblematic of the decay of
+man, and of the immortality of nature.
+
+The French have often been accused of selfishness, and the indifference
+which they often manifest to the fate of their relations, affords too
+much reason to believe that the social affections have little permanent
+influence on their minds. We must, however, admit, that they exhibit in
+misfortunes of a different kind--in calamities which really press upon
+their own enjoyments of life, the same gaiety of heart, and the same
+undisturbed equanimity of disposition. That gaiety in misfortune, which
+is so painful to every observer, when it is to be found in the midst of
+family-distress, becomes delightful when it exists under the deprivation
+of the selfish gratification to which the individual had been
+accustomed. Both here, and in other parts of France, where the houses of
+the peasants had been wholly destroyed by the allied armies, we had
+occasion frequently to observe and admire the equanimity of mind with
+which these poor people bore the loss of all their property. For an
+extent of 30 miles in one direction, towards the North of Champagne,
+every house near the great road had-been burnt or pillaged for the
+firewood which it contained, both by the French and the allied armies,
+and the people were everywhere compelled to sleep in the open air. When
+we spoke to them on the subject of their losses, they answered with
+smiles, "Tout est detruit: tout est brulè, tout, tout;" and seemed to
+derive amusement from the completeness of the devastation. The men were
+everywhere rebuilding their fallen walls, with a cheerfulness which
+never would have existed in England under similar circumstances; and the
+little children laboured in the gardens during the day, and slept under
+the vines at night, without exhibiting any signs of distress for their
+disconsolate situation. In many places, we saw groupes of these little
+children in the midst of the ruined houses, or under the shattered
+trees, playing with the musket shot, or trying to roll the cannon balls
+by which the destruction of their dwellings had been
+effected;--exhibiting a picture of youthful joy and native innocence,
+while sporting with the instruments of human destruction, which the
+genius of Sir Joshua Reynolds would have moulded into the expression of
+pathetic feeling, or employed as the means of moral improvement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+PARIS--THE LOUVRE.
+
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the pictures and statues
+which were preserved in the Louvre, all description of these works must
+appear superfluous; and to those who have not had this good fortune,
+such an attempt could convey no adequate idea of the objects which are
+described. There is nothing more uninteresting than the catalogue of
+pictures which are to be found in the works of many modern travellers;
+nor any thing in general more ridiculous than the ravings of admiration
+with which this catalogue is described, and with which the reader in
+general is little disposed to sympathise. Without attempting,
+therefore, to enumerate the great works which were there to be met with,
+we shall confine ourselves to a simpler object, to the delineation of
+the _general character_ by which the different schools of painting are
+distinguished, and the great features in which they all differ from the
+sculpture of ancient times. For the justice of these observations, we
+must of course appeal to those who have examined this great collection;
+and in the prosecution of them, we pretend to nothing more than the
+simple account of the feelings which, we are persuaded, must have
+occurred to all those who have viewed it without any knowledge of the
+rules which art has established, or the more despicable principles which
+connoisseurs have maintained.
+
+For an attempt of this kind, the Louvre presented, singular advantages,
+from the unparalleled collection of paintings of every school and
+description which was there to be met with, and the facility with which
+you could trace the progress of the art from its first beginning to the
+period of its greatest perfection. And it is in this view that the
+collection of these works into one museum, however much to be deplored
+as the work of unprincipled ambition, and however much it may have
+diminished the impression which particular objects, from the influence
+of association, produced in their native place, was yet calculated, we
+conceive, to produce the greatest of all improvements in the progress of
+the art, by divesting particular schools and particular works of the
+unbounded influence which the effect of early association, or the
+prejudices of national feeling, have given them in their original
+situation, and placing them where their real nature is to be judged of
+by a more extended circle, and subjected to the examination of more
+impartial sentiments.
+
+The character of every school of painting has been determined by some
+peculiar circumstances under which that school first originated, which
+have contributed to form its greatest excellencies, and been the real
+source of its principal defects; and it has unfortunately happened, that
+the unbounded admiration for the great production of these schools has
+everywhere formed the national taste, and tended to perpetuate their
+errors, when the progress of society would otherwise have led to their
+earlier abandonment. It deserves well to be considered, therefore,
+whether the restoration of these monuments of art to their original
+situations, while it must unquestionably enhance the veneration with
+which they will severally be regarded, may not perpetuate the defects
+which particular circumstances have stamped on their school of
+composition; and whether the continuance of them in one vast collection,
+however fatal to the implicit veneration for the works of antiquity, was
+not calculated, by the comparison of their excellencies and the
+exhibition of their defects, to form a new school, possessed of a more
+general character, and adapted for the admiration of a more unbiassed
+public. It is in the despotic reign of arbitrary governments, if we may
+be allowed, in a discussion on matters of taste, to borrow an
+illustration from politics, that the influence of ancient error, and the
+power of ancient prejudice, is most unbounded; but it is in the
+unbiassed discussion which distinguishes a free state, that the
+influence of prejudice is forgotten, and truth emerges from the
+collision of opposite opinions. However this may be, it will not, it is
+hoped, be deemed an useless attempt, if we now endeavour to state, in a
+few words, the impression which was produced by this great collection of
+the works of art, which has been felt, we doubt not, by all who have
+viewed it with untutored eyes, but has not hitherto been described by
+those so much better able to do justice to it than ourselves.
+
+The first hall of the Louvre in the Picture Gallery is filled with
+paintings of the French school. The principal artists whose works are
+here exhibited are, Le Brun, Gaspar and Nicolas Poussin, Claude Lorrain,
+Vernet, and the modern painters Gerard and David. The general character
+of the school of French historical painting, is the expression of
+_passion and violent emotion_. The colouring is for the most part
+brilliant; the canvas crowded with figures, and the incident selected,
+that in which the painter might have the best opportunity of displaying
+his knowledge of the human frame, or the varied expression of the human
+countenance. In the pictures of the modern school of French painting,
+this peculiarity is pushed to an extravagant length, and, fortunately
+for the art, displays the false principles on which the system of their
+composition is founded. The moment seized is uniformly that of the
+strongest and most violent passion; the principal actors in the piece
+are represented in a state of phrenzied exertion, and the whole
+anatomical knowledge of the artist is displayed in the endless
+contortions into which the human frame is thrown. In David's celebrated
+picture of the three Horatii, this peculiarity appears in the most
+striking light. The works of this artist may excite admiration, but it
+is the limited and artificial admiration of the schools; of those who
+have forgot the end of the art in the acquisition of the technical
+knowledge with which it is accompanied, or the display of the technical
+powers which its execution involves.
+
+The paintings of _Vernet_, in this collection, are perhaps the finest
+specimens of that beautiful master, and they entitle him to a higher
+place in the estimation of mankind than he seems yet to have obtained
+from the generality of observers. There is a delicacy of colouring, an
+unity of design, and a harmony of expression in his works, which accord
+well with the simplicity of the subjects which his taste has selected,
+and the general effect which it was his object to produce. In the
+representation of the sun dispelling the mists of a cloudy morning; of
+his setting rays gilding the waves of a western sea; or of that
+undefined beauty which moonlight throws over the objects of nature, the
+works of this artist are perhaps unrivalled.
+
+The paintings of _Claude_ are by no means equal to what we had expected,
+from the celebrity which his name has acquired, or the matchless beauty
+which the engravings from him possess. They are but eleven in number,
+and cannot be in any degree compared with those which are to be found in
+Mr Angerstein's collection. To those, however, who have been accustomed
+to study the designs of this great master, through the medium of the
+engraved copies, and above all, in the unrivalled works of Woollet, the
+sight of the original pictures must, perhaps at all times, create a
+feeling of disappointment. There is an unity of effect in the engravings
+which can never be met with amidst the distraction of colouring in the
+original pictures; and the imagination clothes the beautiful shades of
+the copy with finer tints than even the pencil of Claude has been able
+to supply. "I have shewn you," said Corinne to Oswald, "St Peter's for
+the first time, when the brilliancy of its decorations might appear in
+full splendour, in the rays of the sun: I reserve for you a finer, and a
+more profound enjoyment, to behold it by the light of the moon." Perhaps
+there is a distinction of the same kind between the gaudy brilliancy of
+varied colours, and the chaster simplicity of uniform shadows; and it is
+probably for this reason, that on the first view of a picture which you
+have long admired in the simplicity of engraved effect, you
+involuntarily recede from the view, and seek in the obscure light and
+uncertain tint which distance produces, to recover that uniform tone and
+general character, which the splendour of colouring is so apt to
+destroy. It is a feeling similar to that which Lord Byron has so finely
+described, as arising from the beauty of moonlight scenery:--
+
+    ------"Mellow'd to that tender light
+    Which Heaven to gaudy day denies."
+
+The Dutch and Flemish school, to which you next advance, possesses
+merit, and is distinguished by a character of a very different
+description. It was the well-known object of this school, to present an
+exact and faithful _imitation of nature_; to exaggerate none of its
+faults, and enhance none of its excellencies, but exhibit it as it
+really appears to the eye of an ordinary spectator. Its artists
+selected, in general, some scene of humour or amusement, in the
+discovery of which, the most ignorant spectators might discover other
+sources of pleasure than those which the merit of the art itself
+afforded. They did not pretend, in general, to aim at the exhibition of
+passion or powerful emotion: their paintings, therefore, are free from
+that painful display of theatrical effect, which characterises the
+French school; their object was not to represent those deep scenes of
+sorrow or suffering, which accord with the profound feelings which it
+was the object of the Italian school to awaken; they want, therefore,
+the dignity and grandeur which the works of the greater Italian
+painters possess: their merit consists in the faithful delineation of
+those ordinary scenes and common occurrences, which are familiar to the
+eye of the most careless observer. The power of the painter, therefore,
+could be displayed only in the minuteness of the finishing, or the
+brilliancy of the effect; and he endeavoured, by the powerful contrast
+of light and shade, to give an higher character to his works, than the
+nature of their subject could otherwise admit.
+
+The pictures of Teniers, Ostade, and Gerard Dow, possess these merits,
+and are distinguished by this character in the highest degree; but their
+qualities are so well known in this country, as to render any
+observation on them superfluous. There is a very great collection here
+preserved of the works of Rembrandt, and their design and effect bear,
+in general, a higher character than belongs to most of the works of this
+celebrated master.
+
+In one respect, the collection in the Louvre is altogether
+unrivalled--in the number and beauty of the _Wouvermans_ which are there
+to be met with; nor is it possible, without having seen it, to
+appreciate, with any degree of justice, the variety of design, the
+accuracy of drawing, or delicacy of finishing, which distinguish his
+works from those of any other painter of a similar description. There
+are 38 of his pieces there assembled, all in the finest state of
+preservation, and all displaying the same unrivalled beauty of colouring
+and execution. In their design, however, they widely differ; and they
+exhibit, in the most striking manner, the real object to which painting
+should be applied, and the causes of the errors in which its composition
+has been involved. His works, for the most part, are crowded with
+figures; his subjects are in general battle-pieces, or spectacles of
+military pomp, or the animated scenes which the chace presents; and he
+seems to have exhausted all the efforts of his genius, in the variety of
+incident and richness of execution, which these subjects are fitted to
+afford. From the confused and indeterminate expression, however, which
+the multitude of their objects exhibit, we turn with delight to those
+simpler scenes in which his mind seems to have reposed, after the
+fatigues which it had undergone: to the representation of a single
+incident, or the delineation of a certain occurrence--to the rest of the
+traveller after the fatigues of the day--to the repose of the horse in
+the intermission of labour--to the return of the soldier after the
+dangers of the campaign;--scenes, in which every thing combines for the
+uniform character, and where the genius of the artist has been able to
+give to the rudest occupations of men, and even to the objects of animal
+life, the expression of general poetical feeling.
+
+The pictures of _Vandyke_ and _Rubens_ belong to a much higher school
+than that which rose out of the wealth and the limited taste of the
+Dutch people. There are 60 pieces of the latter of these masters in the
+Louvre, and, combined with the celebrated Gallery in the Luxembourg
+Palace, they form the finest assemblage of them which is to be met with
+in the world. The character of his works differs essentially from that
+both of the French and the Dutch schools; he was employed, not in
+painting cabinet pictures for wealthy merchants, but in designing great
+altar pieces for splendid churches, or commemorating the glory of
+sovereigns in imperial galleries. The greatness of his genius rendered
+him fit to attempt the representation of the most complicated and
+difficult objects; but in the confidence of this genius, he seems to
+have lost sight of the genuine object of composition in his art. He
+attempts what it is impossible for painting to accomplish--he aims at
+telling a whole story by the expression of a single picture; and seems
+to pour forth the profusion of his fancy, by crowding his canvas with a
+multiplicity of figures, which serve no other purpose than that of
+shewing the endless power of creation which the author possessed. In
+each figure there is great vigour of conception, and admirable power of
+execution; but the whole possesses no general character, and produces no
+permanent emotion. There is a mixture of allegory and truth in many of
+his greatest works, which is always painful; a grossness in his
+conception of the female form, which destroys the symmetry of female
+beauty; and a wildness of imagination in his general design, which
+violates the feelings of ordinary taste. You survey his pictures with
+astonishment--at the power of thought and brilliancy of colouring which
+they display; but they produce no lasting impression on the mind; they
+have struck no chord of feeling or emotion, and you leave them with no
+other feeling, than that of regret, that the confusion of objects
+destroys the effect which each in itself might be fitted to produce. And
+if one has made a deeper impression; if you dwell on it with that
+delight which it should ever be the object of painting to produce, you
+find that your pleasure proceeds from a single figure, or the expression
+of a detached part of the picture; and that, in the contemplation of it,
+you have, without being conscious of it, detached your mind from the
+observation of all that might interfere with its characteristic
+expression, and thus preserved that unity of emotion which is essential
+to the existence of the emotion of taste, but which the confusion of
+incident is so apt to destroy.
+
+A few landscapes by _Ruysdael_ are to be here met with, which are
+distinguished by that boldness of conception, fidelity of execution, and
+coldness of colouring, which have often been remarked as the
+characteristics of this powerful master.
+
+It is in the Italian school, however, that the collection in the Louvre
+is most unrivalled, and it is from its character that the general
+tendency of the modern school of historical painting is principally to
+be determined.
+
+The general object of the Italian school appears to be the expression of
+_passion_. The peculiar subjects which its painters were called on to
+represent, the sufferings and death of our Saviour, the varied
+misfortunes to which his disciples were exposed, or the multiplied
+persecutions which the early fathers of the church had to sustain,
+inevitably prescribed the object to which their genius was to be
+directed, and the peculiar character which their works, were to assume.
+They have all, accordingly, aimed at the expression of passion, and
+endeavoured to excite the pity, or awaken the sympathy of the spectator;
+though the particular species of passion which they have severally
+selected, has varied with the turn of mind which the artist possessed.
+
+The works of _Dominichino_ and of the _Caraccis_, of which there are a
+very great number, incline, in general, to the representation of what is
+dark or gloomy in character, or what is terrific and appalling in
+suffering. The subjects which the first of these masters has in general
+selected, are the cells of monks, the energy of martyrs, or the
+sufferings of the crucifixion; and the dark-blue coldness of his
+colouring, combined with the depth of his shadows, accord well with the
+gloomy character which his compositions possess. The _Caraccis_, amidst
+the variety of objects which their genius has embraced, have dwelt, in
+general, upon the expression of sorrow--of that deep and profound sorrow
+which the subjects of Sacred History were so fitted to afford, and which
+was so well adapted to that religious emotion which it was their object
+to excite.
+
+Guido Reni, Carlo Maratti, and Murillo, are distinguished by a gentler
+character; by the expression of tenderness and sweetness of
+disposition: and the subjects which they have chosen are, for the most
+part, those which were fitted for the display of this predominant
+expression--the Holy Family, the flight into Egypt, the youth of St
+John, the penitence of the Magdalene. While, in common with all their
+brethren, they have aimed at the expression of emotion, it was an
+emotion of a softer kind than that which arose from the energy of
+passion, or the violence of suffering; it was the emotion produced by
+more permanent feelings; and less turbulent affections; and from the
+character of this emotion, their execution has assumed a peculiar cast,
+and their composition been governed by a peculiar principle. Their
+colouring is seldom brilliant; there is a subdued tone pervading the
+greater part of their pictures; and they have limited themselves, in
+general, to the delineation of a single figure, or a small group, in
+which a single character of mind is prevalent.
+
+Of the numerous and splendid collection of _Titian's_ which are here
+preserved, it is not necessary to give any description, because they
+consist for the most part of portraits, and our object is not to dwell
+on the richness of colouring, or powers of execution, but on the
+principles of composition by which the different schools of painting
+are distinguished.
+
+There are only six paintings by Salvator Rosa in this collection, but
+they bear that wild and original character which is proverbially known
+to belong to the works of this great artist. One of his pieces is
+particularly striking, a skirmish of horse, accompanied by all the
+scenery in which he so peculiarly delighted. In the foreground is the
+ruins of an old temple, with its lofty pillars finely displayed in
+shadow above the summits of the horizon;--in the middle distance the
+battle is dimly discerned through the driving rain, which obscures the
+view; while the back ground is closed by a vast ridge of gloomy rocks,
+rising into a dark and tempestuous sky. The character of the whole is
+that of sullen magnificence; and it affords a striking instance of the
+power of great genius, to mould the most varied objects in nature into
+the expression of one uniform poetical feeling.
+
+Very different is the expression which belongs to the softer pictures of
+Correggio--of that great master, whose name is associated in every one's
+mind with all that is gentle or delicate in the imitation of nature.
+Perhaps it was from the force of this impression that his works did not
+completely come up to the expectations which we had been led to form.
+They are but eight in number, and do not comprehend the finest of his
+compositions. Their general character is that of tenderness and
+delicacy: there is a softness in his shading of the human form which is
+quite unrivalled, and a harmony in the general tone of his colouring,
+which is in perfect unison with the characteristic expression which it
+was his object to produce. You feel a want of unity, however, in the
+composition of his figures; you dwell rather on the fine expression of
+individual form, than the combined tendency of the whole group, and
+leave the picture with the impression of the beauty of a single
+countenance, rather than the general character of the whole design. He
+has represented nature in its most engaging aspect, and given to
+individual figures all the charms of ideal beauty; but he wants that
+high strain of spiritual feeling, which belongs only to the works of
+Raphael.
+
+The only work of Carlo Dolci in the Louvre is a small cabinet picture;
+but it alone is sufficient to mark the exquisite genius which its author
+possessed. It is of small dimensions, and represents the Holy Family,
+with the Saviour asleep. The finest character of design is here combined
+with the utmost delicacy of execution; the softness of the shadows
+exceeds Correggio himself; and the dark-blue colouring which prevails
+over the whole, is in perfect unison with the expression of that rest
+and quiet which the subject requires. The sleep of the Infant is
+perfection itself--it is the deep sleep of youth and of innocence, which
+no care has disturbed, and no sorrow embittered, and in the unbroken
+repose of which the features have relaxed into the expression of perfect
+happiness. All the features of the picture are in unison with this
+expression, except in the tender anxiety of the Virgin's eye; and all is
+at rest in the surrounding objects, save where her hand gently removes
+the veil to contemplate the unrivalled beauty of the Saviour's
+countenance.
+
+Without the softness of shading or the harmony of colour which Correggio
+possessed, the works of Raphael possess a higher character, and aim at
+the expression of a sublimer feeling, than those of any other artist
+whom modern Europe has produced. Like all his brethren, he has often
+been misled from the real object of of his art, and tried, in the energy
+of passion, or the confused expression of varied figures, to multiply
+the effect which his composition might produce. Like all the rest, he
+has failed in effecting what the constitution of the human mind renders
+impossible, and in this very failure, warned every succeeding age of the
+vanity of the attempt which his transcendent genius was unable to
+effect. It is this fundamental error that destroys the effect, even of
+his finest pieces; it is this, combined with the unapproachable nature
+of the presence which it reveals, that has rendered the Transfiguration
+itself a chaos of genius rather than a model of ideal beauty; nor will
+it, we hope, be deemed a presumptuous excess, if we venture to express
+our sentiments in regard to this great author, since it is from his own
+works alone that we have derived the means of appreciating his
+imperfections.
+
+It is in his smaller pieces that the genuine character of Raphael's
+paintings is to be seen--in the figure of St Michael subduing the demon;
+in the beautiful tenderness of the Virgin and Child; in the unbroken
+harmony of the Holy Family; in the wildness and piety of the infant St
+John;--scenes, in which all the objects of the picture combine for the
+preservation of one uniform character, and where the native fineness of
+his mind appears undisturbed by the display of temporary passion, or the
+painful distraction of varied suffering.
+
+There are no pictures of the English school in the Louvre, for the arms
+of France never prevailed in our island. From the splendid character,
+however, which it early assumed under the distinguished guidance of Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, and from the high and philosophical principles which he
+at first laid down for the government of the art, there is every reason
+to believe that it ultimately will rival the celebrity of foreign
+genius; And it is in this view that the continuance of the gallery of
+the Louvre was principally to be wished by the English nation--that the
+English artists might possess, so near their own country, so great a
+school for composition and design; that the imperfections of foreign
+schools might enlighten the views of English genius; and that the
+conquests of the French arms, by transferring the remains of ancient
+taste to these northern shores, might give greater facilities to the
+progress of our art, than can exist when they are restored to their
+legitimate possessors.
+
+The great object, then, of all the modern schools of historical
+painting, seems to have been, the delineation of an _affecting scene_ or
+_interesting occurrence_; they have endeavoured to tell a story by the
+variety of incidents in a single picture; and seized, for the most part,
+the moment when passion was at its greatest height, or suffering
+appeared in its most excruciating form. The general character,
+accordingly, of the school, is the expression of passion or violent
+suffering; and in the prosecution of this object, they have endeavoured
+to exhibit it under all its aspects, and display all the effects which
+it could possibly produce on the human form, by the different figures
+which they have introduced. While this is the general character of the
+whole, there are of course numerous exceptions; and many of its greatest
+painters seem, in the representation of single figures, or in the
+composition of smaller groups, to have had in view the expression of
+less turbulent affections; to have aimed at the display of settled
+emotion, or permanent feeling, and to have excluded every thing from
+their composition which was not in unison with this predominant
+expression.
+
+The _Sculpture Gallery_, which contains 220 remains of ancient statuary,
+marks, in the most decided manner, the different objects to which this
+noble art was applied in ancient times. Unlike the paintings of modern
+Europe, their figures are almost uniformly at rest; they exclude passion
+or violent suffering from their design; and the moment which they select
+is not that in which a particular or transient emotion may be
+displayed, but in which the settled character of mind may be expressed.
+With the two exceptions of the Laocoon and the Fighting Gladiator, there
+are none of the statues in the Louvre which are not the representation
+of the human figure in a state of repose; and the expression which the
+finest possess, is invariably that permanent expression which has
+resulted from the habitual frame and character of mind. Their figures
+seem to belong to a higher class of beings than that in which we are
+placed; they indicate a state in which passion, anxiety, and emotion are
+no more; and where the unruffled repose of mind has moulded the features
+into the perfect expression of the mental character. Even the
+countenance of the Venus de Medicis, the most beautiful which it has
+ever entered into the mind of man to conceive, and of which no copy
+gives the slightest idea, bears no trace of emotion, and none of the
+marks of human feeling; it is the settled expression of celestial
+beauty, and even the smile on her lip is not the fleeting smile of
+temporary joy, but the lasting expression of that heavenly feeling which
+sees in all around it the grace and loveliness which belongs to itself
+alone. It approaches nearer to that character which sometimes marks the
+countenance of female beauty; when death has stilled the passions of
+the world; but it is not the cold expression of past character which
+survives the period of mortal dissolution; it is the living expression
+of present existence, radiant with the beams of immortal life, and
+breathing the air of eternal happiness.
+
+The paintings of Raphael convey the most perfect idea of earthly beauty;
+and they denote the expression of all that is finest and most elevated
+in the character of the female mind. But there is a "human meaning in
+their eye," and they bear the marks of that anxiety and tenderness which
+belong to the relations of present existence. The Venus displays the
+same beauty, freed from the cares which existence has produced; and her
+lifeless eye-balls gaze upon the multitude which surround her, as on a
+scene fraught only with the expression of universal joy.
+
+In another view, the Apollo and the Venus appear to have been intended
+by the genius of antiquity, as expressive of the character of mind which
+distinguishes the different sexes; and in the expression of this
+character, they have exhausted all which it is possible for human
+imagination to produce upon the subject. The commanding air, and
+advanced step, of the Apollo, exhibit _Man_ in his noblest aspect, as
+triumphing over the evils of physical nature, and restraining the energy
+of instinctive passion by the high dominion of moral power: the averted
+eyes and retiring grace of the Venus, are expressive of the modesty,
+gentleness, and submission, which form the most beautiful features of
+the _female_ character.
+
+    Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed,
+    For valour He, and contemplation, formed,
+    For beauty She, and sweet attractive grace,
+    He for God only, She for God in Him.
+
+These words were said of our first parents by our greatest poet, after
+the influence of a pure religion had developed the real nature of the
+female character, and determined the place which woman was to hold in
+the scale of nature; but the idea had been expressed in a still finer
+manner two thousand years before, by the sculptors of antiquity; and
+amidst all the degradation of ancient manners, the prophetic genius of
+Grecian taste contemplated that ideal perfection in the character of the
+sexes, which was destined to form the boundary of human progress in the
+remotest ages of human improvement.
+
+The Apollo strikes a stranger with all its divine grandeur on the first
+aspect; subsequent examination can add nothing to the force of the
+impression which is then received; The Venus produces at first less
+effect, but gains upon the mind at every renewal, till it rivets the
+affections even more than the greatness of its unequalled
+rival--emblematic of the charm of female excellence, which, if it
+excites less admiration at first than the loftier features of manly
+character, is destined to acquire a deeper influence, and lay the
+foundation of more indelible affection.
+
+The Dying Gladiator is perhaps, after the two which we have mentioned,
+the finest statue which the Louvre contains. The moment chosen is finely
+adapted for that expression of ideal beauty, which may be produced even
+in a subject naturally connected with feelings of pain. It is not the
+moment of energy or struggling, when the frame is convulsed with the
+exertion it is making, or the countenance is deformed by the tumult of
+passion; it is the moment of expiring nature, when the figure is relaxed
+by the weakness of decay, and the mind is softened by the approach of
+death; the moment when the ferocity of combat is forgotten in the
+extinction of the interest which it had excited, when every unsocial
+passion is stilled by the weakness of exhausted nature, and the mind,
+in the last moments of life, is fraught with finer feelings than had
+belonged to the character of previous existence. It is a moment similar
+to that in which Tasso has so beautifully described the change in
+Clorinda's mind, after she had been mortally wounded by the hand of
+Tancred, but in which he was enabled to give her the inspiration of a
+greater faith, and the charity of a more gentle religion:--
+
+    Amico h'ai vinto: io te perdon. Perdona
+    Tu ancora, al corpo no che nulla pave
+    All'alma si: deh per lei prega; e dona
+    Battesme a me, ch'ogni mia colpa lave;
+    In queste voci languide risuona
+    Un non so che di flebile e soave
+    Ch'al cor gli scende, ed ogni sdegno ammorza,
+    Egli occhi a lagrimar gl'invoglia e sforza.
+
+The greater statues of antiquity were addressed to the worshippers in
+their temples; they were intended to awaken the devotion of all classes
+of citizens--to be felt and judged by all mankind. They were intended to
+express characters superior to common nature, and they still express
+them. They are free, therefore, from all the peculiarities of national
+taste; they are purified from all the peculiarities of local
+circumstances; they have been rescued from that inevitable degradation
+to which art is uniformly exposed, by taste being confined to a limited
+society; they have assumed, in consequence, that general character,
+which might suit the universal feelings of our nature, and that
+permanent expression which might speak to the hearts of men through
+every succeeding age. The admiration, accordingly, for those works of
+art, has been undiminished by the lapse of time; they excite the same
+feelings at the present time, as when they came fresh from the hand of
+the Grecian artist, and are regarded by all nations with the same
+veneration on the banks of the Seine, as when they sanctified the
+temples of Athens, or adorned the gardens of Rome.
+
+Even the rudest nations seem to have felt the force of this impression.
+The Hungarians and the Cossacks, as we ourselves have frequently seen,
+during the stay of the allied armies in Paris, ignorant of the name or
+the celebrity of those works of art, seemed yet to take a delight in the
+survey of the statues of antiquity; and in passing through the long line
+of marble greatness which the Louvre presents, stopt involuntarily at
+the sight of the Venus, or clustered round the foot of the pedestal of
+the Apollo;--indicating thus, in the expression of unaffected feeling,
+the force of that genuine taste for the beauty of nature, which all the
+rudeness of savage manners, and all the ferocity of war, had not been
+able to destroy. The poor Russian soldier, whose knowledge of art was
+limited to the crucifix which he had borne in his bosom from his native
+land, still felt the power of ancient beauty, and in the spirit of the
+Athenians, who erected an altar to the Unknown God, did homage in
+silence to that unknown spirit which had touched a new chord in his
+untutored heart.
+
+* * *
+
+From the impression produced on our minds by the collection in the
+Louvre, we were led to form some general conclusions concerning the
+history and object of the arts of Painting and Sculpture, which we shall
+presume to state, as what suggested themselves to us on the
+contemplation of the greatest assemblage of the works of art which has
+ever been formed; but which we give, at the same time, with the utmost
+diffidence, and merely as the result of our own feelings and
+reflections.
+
+The character of art in every country appears to have been determined by
+the _disposition of the people_ to whom it was addressed, and the
+object of its composition to have varied with the purpose it was called
+on to fulfil.--The Grecian statues were designed to excite the devotion
+of a cultivated people; to embody their conceptions of divine
+perfection; to realise the expression of that character of mind which
+they imputed to the deities whose temples they were to adorn: It was
+grace, or strength, or majesty, or the benignity of divine power, which
+they were to represent by the figures of Venus, of Hercules, of Jupiter,
+or of Apollo. Their artists accordingly were led to aim at the
+expression of _general character_; to exclude passion, or emotion, or
+suffering, from their design, and represent the figures in that state of
+repose where the permanent expression of mind ought to be displayed. It
+is perhaps in this circumstance that we are to discern the cause both of
+the peculiarity and the excellence of the Grecian statuary.
+
+The Italian painters were early required to effect a different object.
+Their pictures were destined to represent the sufferings of nature; to
+display the persecution or death of our Saviour, the anguish of the Holy
+Family, the heroism of martyrs, the resignation of devotion. In the
+infancy of the arts, accordingly, they were led to study the expression
+of passion, of suffering, and of temporary emotion; to aim at rousing
+the pity, or exciting the sympathy, of the spectators; and to endeavour
+to characterise their works by the representation of temporary passion,
+not the expression of permanent character. Those beautiful pictures in
+which a different object seems to have been followed--in which the
+expression is that of permanent emotion, not transient passion, while
+they captivate our admiration, seem to be exceptions from the general
+design, and to have been suggested by the peculiar nature of the subject
+represented, or a particular firmness of mind in the artist. In these
+causes we may perhaps discern the origin of the peculiar character of
+the Italian school.
+
+In the French school, the character and manners of the people seem to
+have carried this peculiarity to a still greater length. Their character
+led them to seek in every thing for stage effect; to admire the most
+extravagant and violent representations, and to value the efforts of
+art, not in proportion to their imitation of the expressions of nature,
+but in proportion to their resemblance to those artificial expressions
+on which their admiration was founded. The vehemence of their manner on
+the most ordinary occasions, rendered the most extravagant gestures
+requisite for the display of real passion; and their drama accordingly
+exhibits a mixture of dignity of sentiment, with violence of gesture,
+beyond measure surprising to a foreign spectator. The same disposition
+of the people has influenced the character of their historical painting;
+and it is to be remembered, that the French school of painting succeeded
+the establishment of the French drama. It is hence that they have
+generally selected the moment of theatrical effect--the moment of
+phrenzied passion, of unparalleled exertion, and that their composition
+is distinguished by so many striking contrasts, and so laboured a
+display of momentary effect.
+
+The Flemish or Dutch school of painting was neither addressed to the
+devotion nor the theatrical feelings of mankind; it was neither intended
+to awaken the sympathy of religious emotion, nor excite the admiration
+of artificial composition--it was addressed to wealthy men of vulgar
+capacities, whose taste advanced in no proportion to their riches, and
+who were capable of appreciating only the merit of minute detail, or the
+faithfulness of exact imitation. It is hence that their painting
+possesses excellencies and defects of so peculiar a description; that
+they have carried the minuteness of finishing to so unparalleled a
+degree of perfection; that the brilliancy of their lights has thrown a
+splendour over the vulgarity of their subjects; and that they are in
+general so utterly destitute of all the refinement and sentiment which
+sprung from the devotional feelings of the Italian people.
+
+The subjects which the Dutch painters chose were subjects of low humour,
+calculated to amuse a rich and uncultivated people; the subjects of the
+French school were heroic adventures, suited to the theatrical taste of
+a more elevated society; the subjects of the Italian school were the
+incidents of Sacred History, adapted to the devotional feelings of a
+religious people. In all, the subjects to which painting was applied,
+and the character of the art itself, was determined by the peculiar
+circumstances or disposition of the people to whom it was addressed: so
+that, in these instances, there has really happened what Mr Addison
+stated should ever be the case, that "the taste should not conform to
+the art, but the art to the taste."
+
+* * *
+
+We soon perceived that the statues rivetted our admiration more than any
+of the other works of art which the Louvre presents; and that amongst
+the pictures, those made the deepest impression which approached nearest
+to the character by which the Grecian statuary is distinguished. In the
+prosecution of this train of thought, we were led to the following
+conclusions, relative to the separate objects to which painting and
+statuary should be applied.
+
+1. That the object of Statuary should ever be the same to which it was
+always confined by the ancients, viz. the representation of CHARACTER.
+The very materials on which the sculptor has to operate, render his art
+unfit for the expression either of emotion or passion; and the figure,
+when finished, can bear none of the marks by which they are to be
+distinguished. It is a figure of cold, and pale, and lifeless marble,
+without the varied colour which emotion produces, or the living eye
+which passion animates. The eye is the feature which is expressive of
+present emotion; it is it which varies with all the changes which the
+mind undergoes; it is it which marks the difference between joy and
+sorrow, between love and hatred, between pleasure and pain, between life
+and death. But the eye, with all the endless expressions which it bears,
+is lost to the sculptor; its gaze must ever be cold and lifeless to him;
+its fire is quenched in the stillness of the tomb. A statue, therefore,
+can never be expressive of living emotion; it can never express those
+transient feelings which mark the play of the living mind. It is an
+abstraction of character which has no relation to common existence; a
+shadow in which all the permanent features of the mind are expressed,
+but none of the temporary passions of the mind are shewn; like the
+figures of snow, which the magic of Okba formed to charm the solitude of
+Leila's dwelling, it bears the character of the human form, but melts at
+the warmth of human feeling. The power of the sculptor is limited to the
+delineation of those signs alone by which the permanent qualities of
+mind are displayed: his art, therefore, should be confined to the
+representation of that permanent character of which they are expressive.
+
+2. While such is the object to which statuary would appear to be
+destined, Painting embraces a wider range, and is capable of more varied
+expression: It is expressive of the living form; it paints the eye and
+opens the view of the present mind; it imitates all the fleeting changes
+which constitute the signs of present emotion. It is not, therefore, an
+abstraction of character which the painter is to represent; not an ideal
+form, expressive only of the qualities of permanent character; but an
+actual being, alive to the impressions of present existence, and bound
+by the ties of present affection. It is in the delineation of these
+affections, therefore, that the powers of the painter principally
+consists; in the representation, not of simple character, but of
+character influenced or subdued by emotion. It is the representation of
+the joy of youth, or the repose of age; of the sorrow of innocence, or
+the penitence of guilt; of the tenderness of parental affection, or the
+gratitude of filial love. In these, and a thousand other instances, the
+expression of the emotion constitutes the beauty of the picture; it is
+that which gives the tone to the character which it is to bear; it is
+that which strikes the chord which vibrates in every human heart. The
+object of the painter, therefore, is the expression of EMOTION, of that
+emotion which is blended with the character of the mind which feels, and
+gives to that character the interest which belongs to the events of
+present existence.
+
+3. The object of the painter, being the representation of emotion in all
+the varied situations which life produces, it follows, that every thing
+in his picture should be in unison with the predominant expression which
+he wishes it to bear; that the composition should be as simple as is
+consistent with the developement of this expression; and the colouring
+such as accords with the character by which this emotion is
+distinguished. It is here that the genius of the artist is principally
+to be displayed, in the selection of such figures as suit the general
+impression which the whole is to produce; and the choice of such a tone
+of colouring, as harmonises with the feelings of mind which it is his
+object to awaken. The distraction of varied colours--the confusion of
+different figures--the contrast of opposite expressions, completely
+destroy the effect of the composition; they fix the mind to the
+observation of what is particular in the separate parts, and prevent
+that uniform and general emotion which arises from the perception of one
+uniform expression in all the parts of which it is composed. It is in
+this very perception, however, that the source of the beauty is to be
+found; it is in the undefined feeling to which it gives rise, that the
+delight of the emotion of taste consists. Like the harmony of sounds in
+musical composition, it produces an effect of which we are unable to
+give an account; but which we feel to be instantly destroyed by the
+jarring sound of a different note, or the discordant effect of a foreign
+expression. It is in the neglect of this great principle that the defect
+of many of the first pictures of modern times is to be found--in the
+confused multitude of unnecessary figures--in the contradictory
+expression of separate parts--in the distracting brilliancy of gorgeous
+colours; in the laboured display, in short, of the power of the artist,
+and the utter dereliction of the object of the art. The great secret, on
+the other hand, of the beauty of the most exquisite specimens of modern
+art, lies in the simplicity of expression which they bear, in their
+production of one uniform emotion, from all the parts of one harmonious
+composition. For the production of this unity of emotion, the surest
+means will be found to consist in the selection of _as few figures_ as
+is consistent with the developement of the characteristic expression of
+the composition; and it is, perhaps, to this circumstance, that we are
+to impute the unequalled charm which belongs to the pictures of single
+figures, or small groups, in which a single expression is alone
+attempted.
+
+4. The last principle of the art appeared to be, that both painting and
+sculpture are wholly unfit for the representation of PASSION, as
+expressed by motion; and that, to attempt to delineate it, necessarily
+injures the effect of the composition. Neither, it is clear, can express
+actual motion: they should not attempt, therefore, to represent those
+passions of the mind which motion alone is adequate to express. The
+attempt to delineate violent passion, accordingly, uniformly produces a
+painful or a ridiculous effect; it does not even convey any conception
+of the passion itself, because its character is not known by the
+expression of any single moment, but by the rapid changes which result
+from the perturbed state into which the mind is thrown. It is hence that
+passion seems so ridiculous when seen at a distance, or without the
+cause of its existence being known, and it is hence, that if a human
+figure were petrified in any of the stages of passion, it would have so
+painful or insane an appearance.--As painting, therefore, cannot exhibit
+the rapid changes in which the real expression of passion consists, it
+should not attempt its delineation at all. Its real object is, the
+expression of _emotion_, of that more settled state of the human mind
+when the changes of passion are gone--when the countenance is moulded
+into the expression of permanent feeling, and the existence of this
+feeling is marked by the permanent expression which the features have
+assumed.
+
+The greatest artists of ancient and modern times, accordingly, have
+selected, even in the representation of violent exertion, that moment of
+temporary repose, when a permanent expression is given to the figure.
+Even the Laocoon is not in the state of actual exertion: it is
+represented in that moment when the last effort has been made; when
+straining against an invincible power has given to the figure the aspect
+at last of momentary repose; and when despair has placed its settled
+mark on the expression of the countenance. The Fighting Gladiator is not
+represented in a state of actual activity, but in that moment when he is
+preparing his mind for the future and final contest, and when, in this
+deep concentration of his powers, the pause which the genius of the
+artist has given, expresses more distinctly to the eye of the spectator
+the determined character of the combatant, than all that the struggle or
+agony of the combat itself could afterwards display.
+
+The Grecian statues which were assembled in the Louvre may be considered
+as the most perfect works of human genius; and after surveying the
+different schools of painting which it contains, we could not but feel
+those higher conceptions of human form, and of human nature, which the
+taste of ancient statuary had formed. It is not in the moment of action
+that it has represented man, but in the moment after action, when the
+tumult of passion has ceased, and all that is great or dignified in
+moral nature remains; and the greatest works of modern art are those
+which approach nearest to the same principle. It is not Hercules in the
+moment of earthly combat, when every muscle was swollen with the
+strength he was exerting, that they represent; but Hercules in the
+moment of transformation into a nobler being, when the exertion of
+mortality has passed, and his powers seem to repose in the tranquillity
+of Heaven: not Apollo, when straining his youthful strength in drawing
+the bow; but Apollo, when the weapon was discharged, watching, with
+unexulting eye, its resistless course, and serene in the enjoyment of
+immortal power: not St Michael when struggling with the Demon, and
+marring the beauty of angelic form by the violence of earthly passion,
+but St Michael in the moment of unruffled triumph, restraining the might
+of Almighty power, and radiant with the beams of eternal mercy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+We do not by any means consider ourselves as qualified to enter fully
+into the interesting subject of the national character of the French;
+but we shall venture to state, in this place, what appeared to us its
+most striking peculiarities, particularly as it is observed at Paris.
+Our stay in the capital was too short, and our opportunities of
+observation too limited, to entitle us to speak with confidence; but it
+is to be remembered on the other hand, that there is a surprising
+uniformity of character among the French, which facilitates observation.
+The habit of constant intercourse in society, which constitutes their
+greatest pleasure, and has made them, in their own opinion, the most
+polished nation on earth, appears not merely to have assimilated their
+manners to one another, in the manner so finely illustrated by the
+celebrated simile of Sterne[2], but to have engendered a kind of
+conventional standard character, by which all those we observe are more
+or less modelled.
+
+The most striking and formidable part of their general character is, the
+_contempt for religion_ which is so frequently and openly expressed. In
+all countries there are men of a selfish and abstracted turn of mind,
+who are more disposed than others to religious argument and doubt; and
+in all, there are a greater number, whose worldly passions lead them to
+the neglect, or hurry them on to the violation of religious precepts;
+but a great nation, among whom a cool selfish regard to personal comfort
+and enjoyment has been deliberately substituted for religious feeling,
+and where it is generally esteemed reasonable and wise to oppose and
+wrestle down, by metaphysical arguments, the natural and becoming
+sentiments of piety, as they arise in the human breast, is hitherto, and
+it is to be hoped will long continue, an anomaly in the history of
+mankind.
+
+We heard it estimated at Paris, that 40,000 out of 600,000 inhabitants
+of that town attend church; one half of which number, they say, are
+actuated in so doing by real sentiments of devotion; but to judge from
+the very small numbers whom we have ever seen attending the regular
+service in any of the churches, we should think this proportion greatly
+overrated. Of those whom we have seen there, at least two-thirds have
+been women above fifty, or girls under fifteen years of age. In all
+Catholic countries, Sunday is a day of amusement and festivity, as well
+as of religion--but it is generally, also, one of relaxation from
+business: in Paris, we could see very little signs of the latter in the
+forenoons, but the amusements and dissipation of the capital were
+visibly increased in the evenings; and the Parisians have some reason
+for their remark, that their day of rest is changed to Monday, when the
+effect of their last night's dissipation wholly incapacitates them for
+exertion.
+
+It is clear, that it is quite absurd to attempt altering the manner of
+spending the Sundays at Paris, while the sentiments of the people, in
+regard to religion, continue such as at present; but it must be
+admitted, on the other hand, that their habits, as to the way of
+spending Sundays, re-act powerfully on their sentiments; and that the
+minds of the lower orders, in particular, are much debased by the want
+of what have been emphatically called "these precious breathing times
+for the labouring part of the community."
+
+Frenchmen of the higher ranks seem, at present, generally disposed to
+wave the subject of religion; but those of the middling ranks, by whom
+the business of the country is mainly carried on, do not scruple to
+express their contempt of it;--they applaud with enthusiasm all
+irreligious sentiments in the theatres, and seldom mention priests, of
+any persuasion, without the epithet of _sacrès_.
+
+We were informed in Holland, that the Frenchmen who were sent to that
+country in official capacities, military or civil, manifested on all
+occasions the utmost contempt for religion. A French General, quartered
+in the house of a respectable gentleman in Amsterdam, inquired the
+reason, the first Sunday that he was there, of the family going out in
+their best clothes; and being told they were going to church, he
+expressed his surprise, saying,--"Now that you are a part of the great
+nation, it is time for you to have done with that nonsense."
+
+To an Englishman, who has been accustomed to see the ordinances of
+religion regularly observed by the great majority of his countrymen, the
+neglect of them by the French people appears very singular, and even
+unnatural. When we afterwards visited Flanders, and observed the
+manifest respect of the people for religion--when when saw the
+numberless handsome churches in the villages, and the frequent religious
+processions in the streets of the towns--when we entered the Great
+Cathedral at Antwerp, and found vast numbers of people, of both sexes,
+and all ranks and ages, on their knees, engaged, with the appearance of
+sincere devotion, in the solemn and striking service of vespers, we
+could not help saying among ourselves, that this people, for better
+reasons than mere political convenience, deserved to be separated from
+the French.
+
+Yet, we do not mean to say that the French are wholly, or even generally
+devoid of religious feeling; on the contrary, we believe it may often be
+seen to break out in a very striking manner, even in the conversation of
+those who are accustomed to think it wise to express contempt for it. A
+Frenchman, full of enthusiasm about the glory of his country, who was
+talking to us of the deeds and sufferings of the French army in Russia,
+concluded his description of the latter with these emphatic words: "Ah!
+Monsieur, Ce n'est pas les Russes; C'est _le bon Dieu_ qui a fait cela."
+
+* * *
+
+In point of _intellectual ability_, the French are certainly inferior to
+no other nation. They have not, perhaps, so frequently as others, that
+cool, sound judgment in matters of speculation, which can fit them for
+unravelling with success the perplexities of metaphysics; but their
+unparalleled success in mathematical pursuits is the best possible proof
+of the accuracy and quickness of their reasoning powers, when confined
+within due bounds. We do not refer to the astonishing efforts of such
+men as d'Alembert or La Place, but to the general diffusion of
+mathematical knowledge among all who receive a scientific education. It
+is not, perhaps, going too far to say, that few professors in Britain
+have an equally accurate and extensive knowledge of the integral and
+differential calculus, with some lads of 17 or 18, who have completed
+their education at the Ecole Polytechnique. Unless a man makes
+discoveries of his own in mathematics, he is little thought of as a
+mathematician by the men of science at Paris, even although he may be
+intimately versed in all the branches of that science as it stands.
+
+Under the Imperial Government, it was not considered safe to cultivate
+any sciences which relate to politics or morals; but the advancement of
+the physical and mathematical sciences in France during that time,
+sufficiently indicates that there has been no want of talents or
+industry.
+
+It may be remarked as a striking characteristic of the French scientific
+works, that they are almost always well arranged, and the meaning of the
+author fully and unequivocally expressed. A Frenchman does not always
+take a comprehensive view of his subject, but he seldom fails to take a
+clear view of it. The same turn of mind may be observed in the
+conversation of Frenchmen; even when their information is defective,
+they will very generally arrest attention by the apparent order and
+perspicuity of their thoughts; and they never seem to know what it is to
+be at a loss for words.
+
+Considering the great ingenuity and ability of the French, it seems not
+a little surprising that they should be so much behind our countrymen in
+useful and profitable arts, and that Englishmen should be so much struck
+with the apparent poverty of the greater part of France. This is in a
+great measure owing, no doubt, to the policy of the late French
+Government, which has directed all the energies of the nation towards
+military affairs; and to the abuses of the former government: but we
+think it must be ascribed in part to the character of the people. There
+is not the same co-operation of different individuals to one end, of
+private advantage and public usefulness; the same division of labour,
+intellectual as well as operative; the same hearty confidence between
+man and man, in France as in England. Men of talents in France are, in
+general, too much tainted with the national vanity, and too much
+occupied with their own fame, to join heartily in promoting the public
+interest. Individual intelligence, activity, and ingenuity, go but
+little way in making a nation wealthy and prosperous, if they are made
+to minister only to the individual pleasures and _glory_ of their
+possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+The _patriotism_ of the French is certainly a very strong feeling, but
+it appears to be much tainted with the same vanity and love of shew that
+we have just remarked. There can be no doubt, that during the time of
+Bonaparte's successes, he commanded, in a degree that no other Sovereign
+ever did, the admiration and respect of the great body of the people;
+and it is equally certain, that he did this without interesting himself
+at all in their happiness. His hold of them was by their national vanity
+alone. They assent to all that can be said of the miseries which he
+brought upon France; but add, "Mais il a battu tout le monde; il a fait
+des choses superbes a Paris; il a flattè notre orgeuil national. Ah!
+C'est un grand homme. Notre pays n'a jamais etè si grand ni si puissant
+que sous lui." The condition of the inhabitants of distant provinces was
+nowise improved by his public buildings and decorations at their
+capital; but every Frenchman considers a compliment to Paris, to the
+Louvre, to the Palais Royal, or the Opera, as a personal compliment to
+himself.
+
+At this moment, it is certainly a very general wish in France, to have
+a sovereign, who, as they express it, has grown out of the revolution;
+but when we enquire into their reason for this, it will often be found,
+we believe, to resolve itself into their national vanity. It is not that
+they think the Bourbons will break their word, or that the present
+Constitution will be altered without their consent; but after five and
+twenty years of confusion and bloodshed, they cannot bear the thoughts
+of leaving off where they began; and they think, that taking back their
+old dynasty without alteration, is practically acknowledging that they
+have been in the wrong all the time of their absence. We have often
+remarked (but we presume the remark is applicable to all despotic
+countries) that the French political conversation, such as is heard at
+caffés and tables d'hôte, relates more to men, and less to measures, and
+appears to be more guided by personal attachments or antipathies, than
+that to which we are accustomed in England.
+
+The character that appears to be most wanted in France, is that of
+disinterested public-spirited individuals, of high honour and integrity,
+and of large possessions and influence, who do not interfere in public
+affairs from views of ambition, but from a sense of duty--who have no
+wish to dazzle the eyes of the multitude, and do not seek for a more
+extensive influence than that to which their observation and experience
+entitle them. While this character continues so much more frequent in
+our own country than among the French, it is perhaps in military affairs
+only that we need entertain any fear of their superiority. Englishmen of
+power and influence, generally speaking, have really at heart the _good_
+of their country, whereas Frenchmen, in similar situations, are chiefly
+interested in the _glory_ of theirs.
+
+It must also be observed, that public affairs occupy much less of the
+attention, and interfere much less with the happiness, of the majority
+of the French than of the English. There is less anxiety about public
+measures, and less gratitude for public services. We were often
+surprised at the indifference of the citizens of Paris with regard to
+their Marshals, whom they seldom knew by name, and did not seem to care
+for knowing. The peroration of an old lady, who had delivered a long
+speech to a friend of ours, then a prisoner at Verdun, lamenting the
+reverses of the French arms, and the miseries of France, was
+characteristic of the nation: "Mais, ce m'est egal. Je suis toujours ici."
+
+It is quite unnecessary for us to give proofs of the laxity of _moral
+principle_ which prevails so generally among the French. The world has
+not now to learn, that notwithstanding their high professions, they have
+but little regard either for truth or morality. According to Mr Scott,
+"they have, in a great measure, detached words from ideas and feelings;
+they can, therefore, afford to be unusually profuse of the better sort
+of the first; and they experience as much internal satisfaction and
+pride when they profess a virtue, as if they had practised one." Perhaps
+it would be more correct to say, that they have detached ideas and
+feelings from their corresponding actions. Their feelings have always
+been too violent for the moment, and too short in their duration, to
+influence their conduct steadily and permanently; but at present, they
+seem much disposed to think, that it is quite enough to have the
+feelings, and that there is no occasion for their conduct being
+influenced by them at all.
+
+They appear to have a strong natural sense of the beauty and excellence
+of virtue; but they are accustomed to regard it merely as a sense. It
+does not regulate their conduct to others, but adds to their own selfish
+enjoyments. They speak of virtue almost uniformly, not as an object of
+rational approbation and imitation, and still less as a rule of moral
+obligation, but as a matter of _feeling and taste_. A French officer,
+who describes to you, in the liveliest manner, and with all the
+appearance of unfeigned sympathy, the miseries and devastations
+occasioned by his countrymen among the unoffending inhabitants of
+foreign states, proceeds, in the same breath, to declaim with
+enthusiastic admiration on the untarnished honour of the French arms,
+and the great mind of the Emperor. A Parisian tradesman, who goes to the
+theatre that he may see the representation of integrity of conduct,
+conjugal affection, and domestic happiness, and applauds with enthusiasm
+when he sees it, shews no symptoms of shame when detected in a barefaced
+attempt to cheat his customers; spends his spare money in the Palais
+Royal, and sells his wife or daughter to the highest bidder.
+
+"Among the French," says the intelligent and judicious author of the
+Caractere des Armées Europeennes, "the seat of the passions is in the
+head--they feel rather from the fancy than the heart--their feelings are
+nothing more than thoughts."
+
+Another striking feature of the French character, connected with the
+preceding, is the openness, and even eagerness, with which they
+communicate all their thoughts and feelings to each other, and even to
+strangers. All Frenchmen seem anxious to make the most in conversation,
+not only of whatever intellectual ability they possess, but of whatever
+moral feelings they experience on any occasion;--they do not seem to
+understand why a man should ever be either ashamed or unwilling to
+disclose any thing that passes in his mind;--they often suspect their
+neighbours of expressing sentiments which they do not feel, but have no
+idea of giving them credit for feelings which they do not express.
+
+The French have many _good qualities_; they are very generally obliging
+to strangers, they are sober and good-tempered, and little disposed, in
+the ordinary concerns of life, to quarrel among themselves, and they
+have an amiable cheerfulness of disposition, which supports them in
+difficulties and adversity, better than the resolutions of philosophy.
+But it is clear that they have very little esteem for the most estimable
+of all characters, that of firm and enduring virtue; and in fact, it is
+not going too far to say, that a certain _propriety of external
+demeanour_ has completely taken the place of correctness of moral
+conduct among them. They speak almost uniformly with much abhorrence of
+drunkenness, and of all violations of the established forms of society;
+and such improprieties are very seldom to be seen among them. Many
+Frenchmen, as was already observed, are rough and even ferocious in
+their manners; and the language and behaviour of most of them,
+particularly in the presence of women, appears to us very frequently
+indelicate and rude; yet there are limits to this freedom of manner
+which they never allow themselves to pass. Go where you will in Paris,
+you will very seldom see any disgusting instances of intoxication, or
+any material difference of manner, between those who are avowedly
+unprincipled and abandoned, and the most respectable part of the
+community. In the caffés, which correspond not only to the
+coffee-houses, but to the taverns of London, you will see modest women,
+at all hours of the day, often alone, sitting in the midst of the men.
+In the Palais Royal, at no hour of the night do you witness scenes of
+gross indecency or riot.
+
+To an Englishman, it often serves as an excuse for vicious indulgences,
+that he is led off his feet by temptation. To a Frenchman, this excuse
+is the only crime; he stands in no need of an apology for vice; but it
+is necessary "qu'il se menage:" he is taught "qu'un pechè cachè est la
+moitie pardonnè;" he must on no account allow, that any temptation can
+make him lose his recollection or presence of mind.
+
+We ought perhaps to admit likewise, that some of the vices common among
+the French are not merely less foul and disgusting in appearance, but
+less odious in their own nature, than those of our countrymen. We do not
+say this in palliation of their conduct. It is rather to be considered
+as a benevolent provision of nature, that in proportion as vice is more
+generally diffused, its influence on individual character is less fatal.
+This remark applies particularly to the case of women. A woman in
+England, who loses one virtue, knows that she outrages the opinion of
+mankind; she disobeys the precepts of her religion, and estranges
+herself from the examples which she has been taught to revere; she
+becomes an outcast of society; and if she has not already lost, must
+soon lose all the best qualities of the female character. But a French
+woman, in giving way to unlawful love, knows that she does no more than
+her mother did before her; if she is of the lower ranks, she is not
+necessarily debarred from honest occupation; if of the higher, she loses
+little or nothing in the estimation of society; if she has been taught
+to revere any religion, it is the Catholic, and she may look to
+absolution. Her conduct, therefore, neither implies her having lost, nor
+necessarily occasions her losing, any virtue but one; and during the
+course of the revolution, we have understood there have been many
+examples, proving, in the most trying circumstances, that not even the
+worst corruptions of Paris had destroyed some of the finest virtues
+which can adorn the sex. "Elles ont toujours des bons cœurs," is a
+common expression in France, in speaking even of the lowest and most
+degraded of the sex. In Paris, it is certainly much more difficult than
+in London to find examples in any rank of the unsullied purity of the
+female character; but neither is it commonly seen so utterly perverted
+and degraded; one has not occasion to witness so frequently the painful
+spectacle of youth and beauty brought by one rash step to shame and
+misery; and to lament, that the fairest gifts of heaven should become
+the bitterest of curses to so many of their possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+Having mentioned the French women, we think we may remark, without
+hazarding our character as impartial observers, that most of the faults
+which are so well known to prevail among them, may be easily traced to
+the manner in which they are treated by the other sex. It is a very
+common boast in France, that there is no other country in which women
+are treated with so much respect; and you can hardly gratify any
+Frenchman so much, as by calling France "le paradis des femmes." Yet,
+from all that we could observe ourselves, or learn from others, there
+appears to be no one of the boasts of Frenchmen which is in reality less
+reasonable. They exclude women from society almost entirely in their
+early years; they seldom allow them any vote in the choice of their
+husbands: After they have brought them into society, they seem to think
+that they confer a high favour on them, by giving them a great deal of
+their company, and paying them a great deal of attention, and
+encouraging them to separate themselves from the society of their
+husbands. In return for these obligations, they often oblige them to
+listen to conversation, which, heard as it is, from those for whom they
+have most respect, cannot fail to corrupt their minds as well as their
+manners; and they take care to let them see that they value them for the
+qualities which render them agreeable companions for the moment; not for
+the usefulness of their lives, for the purity of their conduct, or the
+constancy of their affections. Surely the respect with which all women
+who conduct themselves with propriety are treated in England, merely on
+account of their sex; the delicacy and reserve with which in their
+presence conversation is uniformly conducted by all who call themselves
+gentlemen, are more honourable tokens of regard for the virtues of the
+female character, than the unmeaning ceremonies and officious attentions
+of the French.
+
+The female inhabitants of our own country are distinguished of those of
+France, and probably of every other country, by a certain native,
+self-respecting, dignity of appearance and manner, which claims respect
+and attention as a right, rather than solicits them as a boon; and gives
+you to understand, that the man who does not give them is disgraced,
+rather than the woman who does not receive them. We believe it to be
+owing to the influence of the causes we have noticed, that this manner,
+so often ridiculed by the French, under the name of "hauteur" and
+"fiertè Anglaise," is hardly ever to be seen among women of any rank in
+France. And to a similar influence of the tastes and sentiments of our
+own sex, it is easy to refer the more serious faults of the female
+character in that country.
+
+On the other hand, the better parts of the character of the French women
+are all their own. It is not certainly from the men that they have
+learnt those truly feminine qualities, that interesting humility and
+gentleness of manner, that pleasing gaiety of temper, and native
+kindness of disposition, to which it is very difficult, even for the
+proverbial coldness of northern critics, to apply terms of ridicule or
+reproach.
+
+* * *
+
+It is not easy for a stranger, in forming his opinion of the moral
+character of a people, to make allowance for the modification which
+moral sentiments undergo, in consequence of long habits, and
+adventitious circumstances. There is no quality which strikes a stranger
+more forcibly, in the character of the French of the middling and lower
+ranks, than their seeming dishonesty, particularly their uniformly
+endeavouring to extract more money for their goods or their services
+than they know to be their value. But we think too much stress has been
+laid on this part of their character by some travellers. It is regarded
+in France as a sort of professional accomplishment, without which it is
+in vain to attempt exercising a trade; and it is hardly thought to
+indicate immorality of any kind, more than the obviously false
+expressions which are used in the ordinary intercourse of society in
+England, or the license of denying oneself to visitors. That it should
+be so regarded is no doubt a proof of _national_ inferiority, and
+perhaps immorality; but while the general sentiments of the nation
+continue as at present, an instance of this kind cannot be considered as
+a proof of _individual_ baseness. An Englishman is apt to pronounce
+every man a scoundrel, who, in making a bargain, attempts to take him
+in; but he will often find, on a closer and more impartial examination,
+that the judgment formed by this circumstance alone in France, is quite
+erroneous. One of our party entered a small shop in the Palais Royal to
+buy a travelling cap. The woman who attended in it, with perfect
+effrontery, asked 16 francs for one which was certainly not worth more
+than six, and which she at last gave him for seven. Being in a hurry at
+the time, he inadvertently left on the counter a purse containing 20
+gold pieces of 20 francs each. He did not miss it for more than an hour:
+on returning to the shop, he found the old lady gone, and concluded at
+first, that she had absented herself to avoid interrogation; but to his
+surprise, he was accosted immediately on entering, by a pretty young
+girl, who had come in her place, with the sweetest smile
+imaginable,--"Monsieur, a oubliè sa bourse--que nous sommes heureuses de
+la lui rendre."
+
+* * *
+
+It is certainly incorrect to say, that the _taste_ of the French is
+decidedly superior to that of other nations. Their poetry, on the whole,
+will not bear a comparison with the English; their modern music is not
+nearly so beautiful as their ancient songs, which have now descended to
+the lower ranks; their painting is in a peculiar and not pleasing style;
+their taste in gardening is antiquated and artificial; their
+architecture is only fine where it is modelled on the ancient; their
+theatrical tastes, if they are more correct than ours, are also more
+limited. We have already taken occasion more than once to reprobate the
+general taste of the French, as being partial to art, and brilliant
+execution, rather than to simplicity and beautiful design.
+
+But what distinguishes the French from almost every other nation, is the
+_general diffusion_ of the taste for the fine arts, and for elegant
+amusements, among all ranks of the people. Almost all Frenchmen take not
+only a pride, but an interest, in the public buildings of Paris, and in
+the collections of paintings and statues. There is a very general liking
+for poetry and works of imagination among the middling and lower ranks;
+they go to the theatres, not merely for relaxation and amusement, but
+with a serious intention of cultivating their taste, and displaying
+their critical powers. Many of them are so much in the habit of
+attending the theatres when favourite plays are acted, that they know
+almost every word of the principal scenes by heart. All their favourite
+amusements are in some measure of a refined kind. It is not in drinking
+clubs, or in sensual gratifications alone, that men of these ranks seek
+for relaxation, as its too often the case with us; but it is in the
+society of women, in conversation, in music and dancing, in theatres and
+operas, and caffés and promenades, in seeing and being seen; in short,
+in scenes resembling, as nearly as possible, those in which the higher
+ranks of all nations spend their leisure hours.
+
+While the useful arts are comparatively little advanced, those which
+relate to ornaments alone are very generally superior to ours; and the
+persons who profess these arts speak of them with a degree of fervour
+that often seems ludicrous. "Monsieur," says a peruquier in the Palais
+Royal, with the look of a man who lets you into a profound secret in
+science, "Notre art est un art imitatif; en effèt, c'est un des beaux
+arts;" then taking up a London-made wig, and twirling it round on his
+finger, with a look of ineffable contempt, "Celui ci n'est pas la belle
+nature; mais voici la mienne,--c'est la nature personifiée!"
+
+One of the best proofs of the tastes of the lower ranks being, at least
+in part, cultivated and refined, is to be found in the songs which are
+common among the peasantry and soldiers. There are a great number of
+these, and some of them, in point of beauty of sentiment, and elegance
+of expression, might challenge a comparison even with the admired
+productions of our own land of song. The following is part of a song
+which was written in April 1814, and set to the beautiful air of Charles
+VII. It was popular among the description of persons to whom it relates;
+and the young man from whom we got it had himself returned home, after
+serving as a private in the young guard.
+
+
+LE RETOUR DE L'AMANT FRANCAIS.
+
+    De bon cœur je pose les armes;
+    Adieu le tumulte des camps,
+    L'amitiè m'offre d'autres charmes,
+    Au sein de mes joyeux parents;
+    Le Dieu des Amants me rapelle,
+    C'est pour m'enroler à son tour;
+    Et je vais aupres de ma belle,
+    Servir sous les lois de l'amour.
+
+    Aux noms d'honneur et de patrie,
+    On m'a vu braver le trepas;
+    Aujourd'hui pour charmer ma vie
+    La paix fait cesser les combats.
+    Le Dieu des Amants, &c.
+
+After all that we had heard, and all that is known over the whole world,
+of the unbridled licentiousness and savage ferocity of the French
+soldiers, we were not a little surprised to find, that this and other
+songs written in good taste, and expressing sentiments of a kind of
+chivalrous elevation and refinement, were popular in their ranks.
+
+* * *
+
+The last peculiarity in the French character which we shall notice, is
+perhaps the most fundamental of the whole; it is their _love of mixed
+society_; of the society of those for whom they have no regard, but whom
+they meet on the footing of common acquaintances. This is the favourite
+enjoyment of almost every Frenchman; to shine in such society, is the
+main object of his ambition; his whole life is regulated so as to
+gratify this desire. He is indifferent about comforts at home--he
+dislikes domestic society--he hates the retirement of the country; but
+he loves, and is taught to love, to figure in a large circle of
+acquaintance, for whom he has not the least heartfelt friendship, with
+whom he is on no more intimate terms than with perfect strangers, after
+the first half hour. If he has acquired a reputation in science, arts,
+or arms, so much the better; his _glory_ will be of much service to him;
+if not, he must make it up by his conversation.
+
+In consequence of the predilection of the French for social intercourse
+of this kind, it is, that knowledge of such kinds, and to such an
+extent, as can be easily introduced into conversation, is very general;
+that the opportunities of such intercourse are carefully multiplied;
+that all arts which can add to the attractions of such scenes are
+assiduously improved; that liveliness of disposition is prized beyond
+all other qualities, while those eccentricities of manner, which seem to
+form a component part of what we call humorous characters, are excluded;
+that even childish amusements are preferred to solitary occupations;
+that taste is cultivated more than morality, wit esteemed more than
+wisdom, and vanity encouraged more than merit.
+
+It is easy to trace the pernicious effects of a taste for society of
+this kind, on individual character, when it is encouraged to such a
+degree as to become a serious occupation, instead of a relaxation to the
+mind. When the main object of a man's life is distinction among his
+acquaintances, from his wit--his liveliness--his elegance of taste--his
+powers of conversation--or even from the fame he may have earned by his
+talents; he becomes careless about the love of those with whom he is on
+more intimate terms, and who do not value him exclusively, or even
+chiefly, for such qualities. His domestic affections are weakened; he
+lives for himself and enjoys the present moment without either
+reflection or foresight; with the outward appearance of an open friendly
+disposition, he becomes, in reality, selfish and interested; that he may
+secure general sympathy from indifferent spectators, he is under the
+necessity of repressing all strong emotions, and expressions of ardent
+feeling, and of confining himself to a worldly and common-place
+morality; he learns to value his moral feelings, as well as his
+intellectual powers, chiefly for the sake of the display which he can
+make of them in society; and to reprobate vice, rather on account of its
+outward deformity, than of its intrinsic guilt; gradually he becomes
+impatient of restraints on the pleasure which he derives from social
+intercourse; and the religious and moral principles of his nature are
+sacrificed to the visionary idol to which his love of pleasure and his
+love of _glory_ have devoted him.
+
+Such appears to be the state of the minds of most Parisians. They have
+been so much accustomed to pride themselves on the outward appearance of
+their actions, that they have become regardless of their intrinsic
+merits; they have lived so long for _effect_, that they have forgotten
+that there is any other principle by which their lives can be regulated.
+
+Of the devotion of the French to the sort of life to which we refer, the
+best possible proof is, their fondness for a town life; the small number
+of chateaux in the country that are inhabited--and the still more
+remarkable scarcity of villas in the neighbourhood of Paris, to which
+men of business may retire. There are a few houses of this description
+about Belleville and near Malmaison; but in general, you pass from the
+noisy and dirty Fauxbourgs at once into the solitude of the country; and
+it is quite obvious, that you have left behind you all the scenes in
+which the Parisians find enjoyment. The contrast in the neighbourhood of
+London, is most striking. It is easy to laugh at the dulness and
+vulgarity of a London citizen, who divides his time between his
+counting-house and his villa, or at the coarseness and rusticity of an
+English country squire; but there is no description of men to whom the
+national character of our country is more deeply indebted.
+
+It seems no difficult matter to ascribe most of the differences which we
+observe between the English and French character to the differences in
+the habits of the people, occasioned by form of government and various
+assignable causes: and the French character, in particular, has very
+much the appearance of being moulded by the artificial form of society
+which prevails among the people. Yet, it is not easy to reconcile such
+explanations with the instances we can often observe, of difference of
+national character manifested under circumstances, or at an age, when
+the causes assigned can hardly have operated. The peculiarities which
+appear to us most artificial in the Parisian character and manners, may
+often be seen in full perfection in very young children. Every little
+French girl, almost from the time when she begins to speak, seems to
+place her chief delight in attracting the regard of the other sex,
+rather than in playing with her female companions. "In England," says
+Chateaubriand, "girls are sent to school in their earliest years: you
+sometimes see groups of these little ones, dressed in white mantles,
+with straw hats tied under the chin with a ribband, and a basket on the
+arm, containing fruit and a book--all with downcast eyes, blushing when
+looked at. When I have seen," he continues, "our French female children,
+dressed in their antiquated fashion, lifting up the trains of their
+gowns, looking at every one they meet with effrontery, singing love-sick
+airs, and taking lessons in declamation; I have thought with regret, of
+the simplicity and modesty of the little English girls."
+
+It is the opinion of some naturalists, that the acquired habits, as well
+as the natural instincts of animals, are transmitted to their progeny;
+and in comparing the causes commonly assigned, and plausibly supported,
+for the peculiarities of national character, with the very early age at
+which these peculiarities shew themselves, one is almost tempted to
+believe, that something of the same kind may take place in the human
+species.
+
+* * *
+
+In what has now been said, no reference has been made to the influence
+of the revolution on the parts of the French character on which we have
+touched. On this point we have of course, the means of judging with
+precision; but most of the peculiarities which appeared to us most
+striking certainly existed before the revolution, and we should be
+disposed to doubt whether the leading features are materially altered.
+The influence of the writings of the French philosophers on the
+religious and moral principles of their countrymen, has certainly been
+very great, and has been probably strengthened, rather than weakened, by
+the events of the last twenty-five years.
+
+The general diffusion of a military spirit; the unprincipled manner in
+which war has been conducted, and the encouragement which has been given
+to martial qualities, to the exclusion of all pacific virtues, have
+promoted the growth of the French military vices, particularly
+selfishness and licentiousness, among all ranks and descriptions of the
+people, and materially injured their general character, even in the
+remotest parts of the country. During the revolution, and under the
+Imperial Government, men have owed their success, in France, almost
+exclusively to the influence of their intellectual abilities, without
+any assistance from their moral character; in consequence, the contempt
+for religion is more generally diffused, and more openly expressed than
+it was; and although loud protestations of inviolable honour are still
+necessary, integrity of conduct is much less respected. The abolition of
+the old, and the formation of a new nobility, composed chiefly of men
+who had risen from inferior military situations, has had a most
+pernicious effect on the general manners of the nation. The chief or
+sole use of a hereditary nobility in a free country, is to keep up a
+standard of dignity and elegance of manner, which serves as a model of
+imitation much more extensively than the middling and lower ranks are
+often willing to allow, and has a more beneficial effect on the national
+character, than it is easy to explain on mere speculative principles.
+But the manners of the new French nobility being the very reverse of
+dignified or elegant, their constitution has hitherto tended only to
+confirm the changes in the general manners of a great proportion of the
+French nation, which the revolutionary ideas had effected. There are
+very few men to be seen now in France, who (making all allowances for
+difference of previous habits) appear to Englishmen to possess either
+the manners or feelings of gentlemen.
+
+The best possible proof that this is not a mere national prejudice, in
+so far as the army is concerned, is, that the French _ladies_ are very
+generally of the same way of thinking. After the English officers left
+Toulouse in the summer of 1814, the ladies of that town found the
+manners of the French officers who succeeded them so much less
+agreeable, that they could not be prevailed on, for a long time, to
+admit them into their society. This is a triumph over the arms of
+France, which we apprehend our countrymen would have found it much more
+difficult to achieve in the days of the ancient monarchy.
+
+On the other hand, it must be admitted, that the revolution, has had the
+effect of completely removing from the French character that silly
+veneration for high rank, unaccompanied by any commanding qualities of
+mind, which used to form a predominant feature in it. Yet it seems
+doubtful whether the equivalent they have obtained is more likely to
+promote their happiness. They have now an equally infatuated admiration
+for ability and success, without integrity or virtue. Their minds have
+been delivered from the dominion of rank without talents, and have
+fallen under that of talents without principle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+PARIS--THE THEATRES.
+
+
+It is difficult for any person who has never quitted England to enter
+into the feelings which every one must experience when he first finds it
+in his power to examine those peculiarities of national manners, or
+national taste, in the people of other states, which have long been the
+subject of speculation in his own country, and on his imperfect
+knowledge of which, much perhaps of the estimate he has formed of the
+character of those nations may depend. The circumstance which perhaps,
+of all others connected with the people of France, is most likely to
+create this feeling of curiosity and interest, is the opportunity of
+attending the French theatres. In most countries, and even in some
+where dramatic representations possess much greater power over the minds
+of the audience, the theatre is comparatively of much less importance to
+a stranger in assisting him to judge of the character of the people; the
+observations which he may collect can seldom be of any great use in
+affording him means of understanding their manners and public character,
+and at the most, cannot inform him of those circumstances in the
+character of the people with which their happiness and prosperity are
+connected;--but the theatre at Paris is an object of the greatest
+interest to a stranger; every one knows how strikingly the character and
+dispositions of the French people are displayed at their theatres; and
+at the period when we were there, as every speech almost contained
+something which was eagerly turned into an allusion to the circumstances
+of their situation, and to the events which had so lately taken place,
+the interest which the theatres must at any time have excited, was
+greatly increased.
+
+There was another object also, less temporary in its nature, which
+rendered frequent attendance at the theatre, one of the most useful and
+instructive occupations of our time. The construction and character of
+the French tragedies have been as generally questioned in other
+countries, as they are universally and enthusiastically admired in
+France; and with whatever feelings, whether of pleasure or fatigue, we
+might have read these celebrated compositions, we were all naturally
+most anxious to ascertain how far they were calculated for actual
+representation, and what effect these plays, which possess such
+influence over the French people, might produce on those who had been
+accustomed to dramatic writings of so very different a description.
+
+The theatres present, at first view, a very favourable aspect of French
+character. The audience uniformly conduct themselves with propriety and
+decorum; they are always attentive to the piece represented, and shew
+themselves, in general very good judges of theatrical merit; and the
+entertainments which please their taste are certainly of a superior
+order to a great part of those which are popular in England. A great
+number of the performances which are loudly applauded by the pit and
+boxes of the London theatres, would be esteemed low and vulgar, even by
+the galleries at the Theatre Français. It must be added, likewise, that
+the morality of the plays which are in request, is very generally more
+strict than of favourite English plays; and often of a refined and
+sentimental turn, which would be little relished in England. The
+tragedies acted at the Theatre Français are generally modelled on the
+Greek; those of Racine and Voltaire are common. The comedies have seldom
+any low life or buffoonery, or vulgar ribaldry in them; The after
+pieces, and the ballets at the Academie de Musique, and at the Opera
+Comique, are often beautiful representations of rural innocence and
+enjoyments.
+
+It appears at first difficult to reconcile this taste in theatrical
+entertainments with the well-known immorality of the Parisians; but the
+fact is, that as they are in the daily habit of speaking of virtues
+which they do not practise, so it never appears to enter their heads;
+that the sentiments which they delight in hearing at the theatres ought
+to regulate their conduct to one another. They applaud them only for
+their adaptation to the situation of the fictitious personages; whereas
+in England they are applauded, for speaking home to the business and
+bosoms of the audience.
+
+The conduct and style of the French tragedies, in particular, appear to
+be very characteristic of a nation among whom noble and virtuous
+feelings are no sooner experienced than they are proclaimed to the
+world; and are there valued, rather for the selfish pleasure they
+produce, in the mind, than for their influence on conduct. The French
+will not admit, in their tragedies, the representation of all the
+variety of character and situation that can throw an air of truth and
+reality over dramatic fiction; they can admire such incidents and
+characters only, as accord with the sentiments and emotions which it is
+the peculiar province of tragedy to excite. They are not satisfied with
+the indication, in a few energetic words,--valuable only as an index to
+the state of the mind, and an earnest of the actions of the speaker,--of
+feelings too strong to find vent at the moment, in words capable of
+fully expressing them; they must have the full developement, the long
+detailed exposition of all the thoughts which crowd into the mind of the
+actor or sufferer, expanded, as it were, to prolong the enjoyment of
+those who are to sympathise with them, and expressed in select and
+appropriate terms, with the pomp and stateliness of heroic verse. An
+English tragedy is valued as a representation of life and character; a
+French tragedy as a display of eloquence and feeling: and the reason is,
+that in France eloquence and feeling are valued for their own sake, and
+in England they are valued for the sake of the corresponding character
+and conduct.
+
+It is perhaps one of the strongest arguments in favour of the general
+plan of the English drama, and one of the best proofs that dramatic
+poetry ought to be judged by very different principles from those by
+which other kinds of poetry are criticised, that one of the principal
+merits of the French actors consists in hiding the chief peculiarities
+of their own dramatic school. The personages in a French tragedy are
+represented by the authors as it were a degree above human nature; but
+the actors study to present themselves before the audience as simple men
+and women: the speeches are generally such as appear to be delivered by
+persons who are superior to the overwhelming influence of strong
+passions, and who can calmly enter into an analysis of their own
+feelings; but the actors labour to give you the impression, that they
+are agitated by present, violent, and sudden emotions; the tragedies are
+composed with as much regularity as epic poems in heroic verse, but the
+best actors do all in their power, by varied intonation, by irregular
+pauses, and frequent bursts of passion, to conceal the rhymes, and break
+the uniformity of the measure.
+
+The effect of the rhymes and regular versification, in the mouths of the
+inferior actors, who have not the art to conceal them, is, to an English
+ear at least, very unpleasing, and indeed almost destructive of
+theatrical illusion; and as a number of such actors must necessarily
+appear in every tragedy, it may be doubted whether a tragedy is ever
+acted throughout on the French stage in so pleasing a manner, at least
+to an English taste, as some of our English tragedies are at present in
+the London theatres--as Venice preserved, for example, is now acted at
+Covent Garden. If such be our superiority, however, it must be ascribed,
+not to the tragic genius of the people being greater, but to there being
+fewer difficulties to be overcome on the English stage than on the
+French.
+
+We think it is pretty clear, likewise, that the style of the best
+English tragedies affords a better field for the display of genius in
+the actors, than that of the French. Where the sentiments of the
+characters introduced are fully expressed in their words--where their
+whole thoughts are detailed for the edification of the audience, however
+grand or touching these may be, it is obvious, that the actor who is to
+represent them is in trammels; the poet has done so much, that little
+remains for him; his art is confined to the display of emotions or
+passions, all the variations of which are set down for him, and which he
+is not permitted to alter. But when the expression of intense feeling is
+confined to few words, to broken sentences, and sudden transitions of
+thought, which let you, indeed, into the inmost recesses of the soul of
+the sufferer, but do not lay it open before you, it is permitted for the
+genius of the actor to co-operate with that of the poet in producing an
+effect, for which neither was singly competent. Those who have witnessed
+the representation of the heart-rendings of jealousy in Kean's Othello,
+or of the agonies of "love and sorrow joined" in Miss O'Neil's
+Belvidera, will, we are persuaded, acknowledge the truth of this
+observation.
+
+The ideas which we had formed of the French stage, from reading their
+tragedies, had prepared us to expect, in their principal actor, a
+figure, countenance, and manner, resembling those of Kemble, fitted to
+give full effect to the declamations in which they abound, and to the
+representation of characters of heroic virtue, elevated above the
+influence of earthly passions. The appearance of Talma is very different
+from this, and certainly has by no means the uniform dignity and
+majestic elevation of Kemble.
+
+Difficult as it must always be to convey, by any general description, a
+distinct or adequate notion of the excellence of any actor, there are
+some circumstances which it is common to mention, and some expressions
+which must be understood wherever the theatre is an object of interest,
+and the power of acting appreciated. Talma appears to us to unite more
+of the advantages of figure, and countenance, and voice, than any actor
+that we have ever seen: it is not that his person is large and graceful,
+or even well proportioned; on the contrary, he is rather a short man,
+and is certainly not without defects in the shape of his limbs. But
+these disadvantages are wholly overlooked in admiration of his dignified
+and imposing carriage--of his majestic head--and of his full and
+finely-proportioned chest, which expresses so nobly the resolution, and
+manliness, and independence of the human character.
+
+There is one circumstance in which Talma has every perfection which it
+is possible to conceive--in the power, and richness, and beauty of his
+_voice_. It is one of those commanding and pathetic voices which can
+never, at any distance of time, be forgotten by any one who has once
+heard it: every variety of tone and expression of which the human voice
+is capable, is perfectly at his command, and succeed each other with a
+rapidity and power which it is not possible to conceive. It makes its
+way to the heart the instant it is heard, and at the moment he begins to
+speak, you feel not only your attention fixed, and your admiration
+excited, but the mind wholly subdued by its resistless influence, and
+disposed to enter at once into every emotion which he may wish to
+produce. The beauty and feeling of his under tones, the affection,
+tenderness, and pity which they so exquisitely express, are so perfect,
+that no one could foresee in such perfections, the fierce, hurried, and
+overhearing tones of Nero--the voice of deep and exhausting suffering,
+which in Hamlet shews so profound an impression of the misery he had
+undergone, and of the hopelessness of the situation in which he is
+placed,--or still more the shriek of agony in Orestes, when he finds the
+horrors of madness again assailing him, and when, in that utter
+prostration of soul which the belief of inevitable and merciless destiny
+alone could produce in his mind, he abandons himself in dark despair to
+the misery which seems to close around him for ever.
+
+We have heard several English people describe Talma's countenance, as by
+no means powerful enough for a great actor; it appeared to us, that in
+no one respect was he so decidedly superior to any _actor_ on the
+English stage, as in the truth and variety of expression which it
+displays. There is one observation indeed regarding the acting of Talma,
+which often suggested itself, and which may, in some degree, prepare us
+to expect, that English people in general could not be much struck with
+the expression of his countenance. On the English stage, it appears
+commonly to be the object of the actors, to give to every sentiment the
+whole effect of which the words of the part will admit, as fully as if
+that sentiment were the only one which could occupy the mind of the
+character at the time; and any person who will attend to the manner in
+which Macbeth and Hamlet are performed, even by that great actor whose
+genius has secured at once the pre-eminence which the reputation of
+Garrick had left so long uncontested, may observe, that many of the
+parts, which are applauded as the strongest proofs of the abilities of
+the actor, consist in the expression given to sentiments, undoubtedly of
+subordinate importance in the situation of these characters, and which
+probably could never occupy so exclusively the mind of any one really
+placed in the circumstances represented in the play, and under the
+influence of the feelings which such circumstances are calculated to
+produce. In the character of Hamlet, in particular, there are several
+passages, in which it is the custom to express minor and passing
+sentiments with a keenness little suitable to the profound grief in
+which Hamlet ought to be absorbed at the commencement of the play, and
+which can be natural only when the mind is free from other more powerful
+emotions. It appears to us, that the consistency of character is much
+more judiciously and naturally preserved in the acting of Talma; that he
+is more careful to maintain invariably that unity of expression which
+ought to be given to the character, and is more uniformly under the
+influence of those predominating feelings, which the circumstances of
+the situation in which the part has placed him seem fitted to excite.
+Under this impression apparently of the object which an actor ought to
+keep in view, Talma omits many opportunities, which would be eagerly
+employed on the English stage, to display the power of the actor, though
+the natural consistency of character might be violated; and never seems
+to think it proper to express, on all occasions, every sentiment with
+that effect which should be given to it, only when it becomes the
+predominant feeling of the moment. Much, no doubt, is lost for stage
+effect by this notion of acting. Many opportunities are passed over,
+which might have been employed to shew the manner in which the actor can
+represent a variety of feelings, which the language of the play may seem
+to admit; and we lose much of the art and skill of acting, when the
+talents of the actor are limited to the display of such sentiments only
+as accord with the simple and decided expression of character which he
+is anxious to maintain.
+
+But on the other hand, the impression which this representation of
+character makes upon the mind, is on the whole much more profound, and
+the interest which the spectator takes in the circumstances in which the
+character is placed, is much greater when the actor is so wholly under
+the influence of the feelings which the situation of the part ought to
+excite, as never to betray any emotion which can weaken that general
+effect which this situation would naturally produce. To those,
+therefore, accustomed to the greater variety of expression which the
+practice of the English stage renders necessary in the countenance of
+every actor, and to the strong and often exaggerated manner in which
+common sentiments and ordinary feelings are represented, there may
+perhaps appear some want of expression in Talma's countenance; but no
+one can attend fully to any of the more interesting characters which he
+performs, without feeling an impression produced by the power and
+intelligence of his countenance, which no length of time will ever
+wholly efface. It is not the expression of his countenance at any
+particular moment which fixes itself on the mind, or the force with
+which accidental feelings are represented; but that permanent and
+powerful expression which suits the character he has to sustain, and
+never for an instant permits you to forget the circumstances, of
+whatever kind, in which he is placed; and those who have seen him in any
+of the greater parts on the French stage, can never forget that
+unrivalled power of expressing deep grief, of which nothing in any
+English actor at present on the stage can afford any idea.
+
+At the same time it must be admitted, that Talma has arrived at that
+time of life, when the hand of age has impaired, in some degree, the
+vigour and expression of the human frame, and when his countenance has
+lost much of that variety and play of expression which belongs to the
+period of youth alone; it has lost much of the warmth and keenness of
+youthful feeling, and probably might fail in expressing that openness,
+and gaiety, and enthusiasm, which time has so great a tendency to
+diminish. But these qualities are not often required in the parts which
+Talma has to perform in the French plays; and if his countenance has
+lost some of the perfections of earlier years, it has, on the other
+hand, gained much from the seriousness and dignity of age. If, for
+instance, he does not express so well the ardour--the hope--the triumph
+of youthful love, there is yet something irresistibly affecting in the
+earnestness with which he expresses that passion; something which adds
+most deeply to the interest which its expression is calculated to
+excite, by reminding one of the instability of human enjoyment, and of
+the many misfortunes which the course of life may bring with it to
+destroy the visions of inexperienced affection. We have already
+mentioned, that in the expression of profound emotion and deep
+suffering, the countenance of Talma is altogether admirable; and we
+doubt whether there is any thing is this respect more true and perfect,
+even in the performance of that great actress who has, in the present
+day, united every perfection of grace, and beauty, and genuine feeling
+which the stage has ever exhibited. But the countenance of Talma, in
+scenes of distress, expresses not merely suffering, but if possible,
+something more, which we have never seen in any other actor. He alone
+possesses the power of expressing that impatience under suffering--that
+restless, constant wish for relief, which produces so strong an
+impression of the truth and reality of the affliction with which you are
+called upon to sympathise.
+
+His attitudes and action are uncommonly striking, seldom in the
+exaggeration of the French stage, and never running into that immoderate
+expression of passion in which dignity of character is necessarily
+sacrificed. Talma appears to understand the use and management of action
+better than any actor on the French stage; and though at times some
+prominent faults, inseparable, perhaps, from the character of the plays
+in which he is compelled to perform, may be observable; yet, in general,
+his action appears to possess a power and expression beyond what is
+attempted by any actor on the English stage.
+
+Nothing can be conceived apparently so inconsistent with the character
+of the French plays, as the manner in which they are delivered. The
+harangues, which are tedious to many when read, might probably be very
+uninteresting to all when performed, if delivered with that unbending
+and unimpassioned declamation, which seems to suit "their stately march
+and long resounding lines:" to a French audience, in particular, such
+representations would be intolerable, and the actors, accordingly, have
+been led to perform them with a degree of energy and passion which they
+do not appear intended to admit, but which was necessary, perhaps, to
+awaken those emotions which it must be more or less the object of
+theatrical representations to excite, wherever they are to be performed
+to all classes of mankind. As might have been foreseen, the French
+actors, compelled to counterfeit a degree of warmth and feeling which
+was not suggested by the sentiments they utter, or the language they
+employ, have fallen very naturally into the error of making the
+expression of passion immoderately vehement; and thus, when not guided
+by the language they are to use, have become not only indiscriminate in
+the introduction of violent emotion, but often run into a degree of
+warmth, totally destructive of every feeling of propriety and dignity.
+
+The striking circumstance in Talma's acting is, that he alone seems to
+know how to act the French plays with all the feeling and interest which
+can be necessary to produce effect; and at the same time, to avoid that
+exaggerated representation of passion which represses the very emotions
+it is intended to excite. The means by which the genius of this great
+actor has accomplished so important an effect, and overcome the
+difficulties which seem insuperable to the rest of his countrymen,
+afford the best illustration that can be given of the talents and
+imagination he displays. Talma appears to have thought, and most justly,
+that the only manner in which the French tragedies can approach and
+interest the heart, is by the impression which the character and the
+moral tendency of the play may, upon the whole, be able to produce, not
+by the force or pathos which can be thrown into any detached speeches,
+or by the effect with which individual parts of the tragedy may be
+given. The impression which might be created by the delivery of any
+particular passage, or by the expression of any occasional sentiment, he
+seems at all times to consider as of subordinate importance to the
+preservation of that permanent character, whether of intense and
+overpowering suffering, or wild desperation, by which he thinks the
+feelings of the spectators may be most deeply and heartily interested.
+Much as we admire the excellencies of the English stage, and none we are
+persuaded can have an opportunity of comparing it with the acting of the
+French theatre, without being more sensible of its perfections, we
+think it may yet be observed, that many important objects are sacrificed
+to the desire of producing _continual_ emotion,--to the practice of
+making every sentiment and every word tell upon the audience, with an
+effect which could not be greater, if that sentiment were the whole
+object of the tragedy. We admit, most willingly, the talent and feeling
+which are often so beautifully displayed in the course of the inferior
+scenes; and the impression, which is so frequently produced over the
+"whole assembled multitude," by the delivery of a single passage, of no
+importance in itself, attests sufficiently the merits of the actors who
+can thus wield at will the passions of the spectators. What we are
+anxious to observe is, that the _general impression_, from the play must
+be less profound, when the mind is thus distracted by a variety of
+powerful feelings succeeding each other so rapidly, and when the
+interest, which would naturally increase of itself as the performance
+proceeds, in the history and moral tendency of the tragedy, is thus
+broken, as it were, by the influence of so many transient passions. It
+is very singular to observe the difference, in this respect, between the
+character of an English and a Parisian audience: To the former, every
+thing, as it passes, must be given with the greatest effect; no
+opportunity can safely be omitted, by any one attentive to the public
+opinion, of displaying the power with which each sentiment may be
+expressed; and there is no common feeling among the spectators, of the
+subserviency of all the different parts of the tragedy to one great
+import, or that it is only in the more important scenes, where the
+events of the story are coming to a close, that great talent is to be
+exerted, or profound emotion excited. The feelings of a French audience,
+as might be expected, are such as better suit the character of the plays
+which have been so long addressed to them; they like to have their
+interest awakened, and their feelings excited, only as the story
+proceeds, and the deeper scenes of the tragedy begin to open upon them;
+and it is to the general impression which the progress and close of the
+play leave upon the mind, that they look, as to the criterion of the
+excellence of the manner, in which that play has been performed.
+Nothing, therefore, can be apparently quieter than the commencement of a
+French tragedy; and a person unacquainted with the language, would be
+disposed to conclude what was passing before him as uninteresting in the
+highest degree, if he did not observe the most profound and eager
+attention to prevail in those to whom it is addressed. It would be a
+subject of very curious and instructive speculation, to examine the
+circumstances, in the situation and intelligence of the people in both
+countries, which have occasioned this remarkable difference in their
+feelings, in moments when the influence of prejudice, or the effect of
+peculiar character, generally gives way, and when the genuine sentiments
+of mankind, as invariably happens when the different ranks of men are
+assembled indiscriminately together, assume their natural empire over
+the human heart. It might unfold some interesting conclusions both as to
+the great object of the drama, and the genuine style of dramatic
+representation; and might place, in a more important point of view than
+is within the consideration, perhaps, of many who so hastily decide on
+the superiority of the English stage, the excellence they admire.
+
+Much as the French tragedies are despised in this country, and sensible
+as we are of many essential defects which belong to them, when
+considered as the means of exciting popular feeling, or of applying to
+the duties of common life, we must yet state the very great and lasting
+impression which many of them left on our minds, and which, we can truly
+say, was never equalled by any effect produced by the most successful
+efforts of the English stage. At our own theatres, we have been often
+more deeply affected during the performance of the play,--we have often
+admired, much more, the grace, or feeling, or grandeur of the acting we
+witnessed, and been more highly delighted with the _species_ of talent
+which was displayed; but yet, we must acknowledge, that the impression
+that all this _left upon the mind_, was not such as has been produced by
+the powers of Talma in the French tragedies. We had many occasions,
+however, to see that this effect was to be attributed chiefly to the
+genius of this great actor, and that it was only when entrusted to him,
+that the influence of these plays was so deeply felt.
+
+The great difference, then, between the acting of Talma, and of the
+other actors on the French stage, is his constant attention to the means
+by which the impression, which the general tendency of the play will
+produce, may be increased. Whatever may be the character which the
+nature of the tragedy seems to require, his whole powers are employed to
+pursue that character inviolably during the progress of the play, and to
+add to the effect it is fitted to produce: The character of profound
+grief, for instance, is so completely sustained, that the very act of
+speaking seems an exertion too great for a mind which suffering has
+nearly exhausted, and where, in consequence, the pomp and energy of
+declamation, and many of the most natural aids by which passion is wont
+to express itself, are all disregarded in the intensity of mental agony.
+It is not uncommon, accordingly, to see Talma perform parts of a tragedy
+in a manner which might seem tame and unmeaning to one who had not been
+present at the preceding parts, but which is most interesting to those
+who have seen the character which he adopts from the first, and feel the
+propriety and effect of the manner in which that character is sustained.
+Some of the most striking effects we have ever seen produced in any
+acting, are in those scenes, in many plays in which he performs, in
+which, from his powerful and affecting personation of character, his
+exhausted mind seems unable to enter into any events which are not
+either to relieve his sufferings, or terminate an existence which
+appears beset with such hopeless misery. Other actors may have succeeded
+in expressing as strongly the influence of present suffering, or the
+despair of intense grief. It is Talma alone who knows how to express,
+what is so much more grand, the effects of long suffering; to remind you
+of the misery he has endured by the spectacle of an exhausted frame and
+broken spirit; and by exhibiting the overwhelming consequence of those
+sufferings which the poet has not dared to describe, nor the actor
+ventured to represent to interest the mind far more profoundly than any
+representation of present passion could possibly effect. The influence
+of the exertions of other actors is limited to the effects of the
+emotions they represent, and of the suffering they exhibit: the genius
+of Talma has imitated the efforts of ancient Greece in her matchless
+sculpture, and, in every situation which put it within his power,
+chosen, as the proper field for the display of the actor's powers, not
+the mere representation of excess in suffering, but that moment of
+greater interest, when the struggle of nature is past, and the mind has
+sunk under the pressure of affliction, which no fortitude could sustain,
+and which no ray of hope had cheered.
+
+Every one knows the peculiar manner in which, in general, the verses of
+the French tragedy are repeated, and the delight which the French people
+take in the uniform and balanced modulation of voice with which they are
+accompanied. In an ordinary actor, this peculiar tone is often, to many
+foreigners, extremely fatiguing, but it is defended in France, as
+securing a pleasure in some degree independent of the merits of the
+actor, and defending the audience from the harshness of tone, and
+extravagancies of accent, to which otherwise, in bad actors, they would
+be exposed; and certainly no one can listen, in the National Theatre, to
+the beautiful and splendid declamations of the most celebrated
+compositions in French literature, delivered in the manner which has
+been selected as best adapted to the character of the plays and the
+taste of the people, with any feeling of indifference. In the skilful
+hands of Talma, who preserves the beauty of the poetry nearly unimpaired
+in the very _abandon_ of feeling, the French verse acquires beauties
+which it never before could boast, and loses all that is harsh or
+painful in the uniformity of its structure, or the monotony of
+artificial taste. The description which Le Baron de Grimm has given of
+Le Kain may be well applied to Talma. "Un talent plus precieux sans
+doute et qu'il avait porté au plus haut degré c'etait celui de faire
+sentir tout le charme des beaux vers sans nuire jamais a la verité de
+l'expression. En dechirant le cœur, il enchantait toujours l'oreille, sa
+voix pénétrait jusqu'au fond de l'ame, et l'impression qu'elle y
+faisait, semblable a celle du burin, y laissait des traces et longs
+souvenirs."
+
+The tragedy of Hamlet, in which we saw Talma perform for the first time,
+is one which must be interesting to every person who has any
+acquaintance with French literature; and it will not probably be
+considered as any great digression in a description of Talma's
+excellencies as an actor, to add some further remarks concerning that
+celebrated play in which his powers are perhaps most strikingly
+displayed, and which is one of the greatest compositions undoubtedly of
+the French theatre. It can hardly be called a translation, as many
+material alterations were made in the story of the play; and though the
+general purport of the principal speeches has been sometimes preserved,
+the language and sentiments are generally extremely different. The
+character of Shakespeare's Hamlet was wholly unsuited to the taste of a
+French audience. What is the great attraction in that mysterious being
+to the feelings of the English people, the strange, wild, and
+metaphysical ideas which his art or his madness seems to take such
+pleasure in starting, and the uncertainty in which Shakespeare has left
+the reader with regard to Hamlet's real situation, would not perhaps
+have been understood--certainly not admired, by those who were
+accustomed to consider the works of Racine and Voltaire as the models of
+dramatic composition. In the play of Ducis, accordingly, Hamlet thinks,
+talks, and acts pretty much as any other human being would do, who
+should be compelled to speak only in the verse of the French tragedy,
+which necessarily excludes, in a great degree, any great incoherence or
+flightiness of sentiment. In some respects, however, the French Hamlet,
+if a less poetical personage, is nevertheless a more interesting one,
+and better adapted to excite those feelings which are most within the
+command of the actor's genius. M. Ducis has represented him as more
+doubtful of the reality of the vision which haunted him, or at least of
+the authority which had commissioned it for such dreadful
+communications; and this alteration, so important in the hands of Talma,
+was required on account of other changes which had been made in the
+story of the play. The paramour of the Queen is not Hamlet's uncle, nor
+had the Queen either married the murderer, or discovered her criminal
+connexion with him. Hamlet, therefore, has not, in the incestuous
+marriage of his mother, that strong confirmation of the ghost's
+communication, which, in Shakespeare, led him to suspect foul play even
+before he sees his father's spirit. In the French play, therefore,
+Hamlet is placed in one of the most dreadful situations in which the
+genius of poetry can imagine a human being: Haunted by a spirit, which
+assumes such mastery over his mind, that he cannot dispel the fearful
+impression it has made, or disregard the communication it so often
+repeats, while his attachment to his mother, in whom he reveres the
+parent he has lost, makes him question the truth of crimes which are
+thus laid to her charge, and causes him to look upon this terrific
+spectre as the punishment of unknown crime, and the visitation of an
+offended Deity. Ducis has most judiciously and most poetically
+represented Hamlet, in the despair which his sufferings produce, as
+driven to the belief of an over-ruling destiny, disposing of the fate of
+its unhappy victims by the most arbitrary and revolting arrangement, and
+visiting upon some, with vindictive fury, the whole crimes of the age in
+which they live. There is in this introduction of ancient superstition,
+something which throws a mysterious veil round the destiny of Hamlet,
+that irresistibly engrosses the imagination, and which must be doubly
+interesting in that country where the horrors of the revolution have
+ended in producing a very prevalent, though vague belief, in the
+influence of fatality upon human character and human actions, among
+those who pretend to ridicule, as unmanly prejudice and childish
+delusion, the religion of modern Europe.
+
+The struggle, accordingly, that appears to take place in Hamlet's mind
+is most striking; and when at last he yields to the authority and the
+commands of the spirit, which exercises such tyranny over his mind, it
+does not seem the result of any farther evidence of the guilt which he
+is enjoined to revenge, but as the triumph of superstition over the
+strength of his reason. He had long resisted the influence of that
+visionary being, which announced itself as his father's injured spirit,
+and in assuming that sacred form, had urged him to destroy the only
+parent whom fate had left; but the struggle had brought him to the brink
+of the grave, and shaken the empire of reason; and when at last he
+abandons himself to the guidance of a power which his firmer nature had
+long resisted, the impression of the spectator is, that his mind has
+yielded in the struggle, and that, in the desperate hope of obtaining
+relief from present wretchedness, he is about to commit the most
+horrible crimes, by obeying the suggestions of a spirit, which he more
+than suspects to be employed only to tempt him on to perdition. No
+description can possibly do justice to the manner in which this
+situation of Hamlet is represented by Talma; indeed, on reading over the
+play some time afterwards, it was very evident that the powers of the
+actor had invested the character with much of the grandeur and terror
+which seemed to belong to it, and that the imagination of the French
+poet, which rises into excellence, even when compared with the
+productions of that great master of the passions whom he has not
+submitted to copy, has been surpassed by the fancy of the actor for whom
+he wrote. The Hamlet of Talma is probably productive of more profound
+emotion, than any representation of character on any stage ever excited.
+
+One other alteration ought to be mentioned, as it renders the
+circumstances of Hamlet's situation still more distressing, and affords
+Talma an opportunity of displaying the effects of one of the gentler
+passions of human nature, when its influence seemed irreconcileable with
+the stern and fearful duties which fate had assigned to him. The Ophelia
+of the French play, so unlike that beautiful and innocent being who
+alone seems to connect the Hamlet of Shakespeare with the feelings and
+nature of ordinary men, has been made the daughter of the man for whose
+sake the king has been poisoned, and was engaged to marry Hamlet at that
+happier period when he was the ornament of his father's court, and the
+hope of his father's subjects. In the first part of the play, though no
+hint of the terrible revenge which he was to execute on her father has
+escaped, the looks and anxiety of Talma discover to her that her fate is
+in some degree connected with the emotions which so visibly oppress him,
+and she makes him at last confess the insurmountable barrier which
+separates them for ever. Nothing can be greater than the acting of Talma
+during this difficult scene, in which he has to resist the entreaties of
+the woman whom he loves, when imploring for the life of her father, and
+yet so overcome with his affection, as hardly to have strength left to
+adhere to his dreadful purpose.
+
+The feelings of a French audience do not permit the spirit of Hamlet's
+father to appear on the stage: "L'apparition se passe, (says Madame de
+Stael)[3], en entier dans la physionomie de Talma, et certes elle n'en
+est pas ainsi moins effrayante. Quand, au milieu d'un entretien calme et
+melancolique, tout a coup il aperçoit le spectre, on suit tout; ses
+mouvemens dans les yeux qui le contemplent, et l'on ne peut douter de la
+presence du fantome quand un tel regard l'atteste." The remark is
+perfectly just, nothing can be imagined more calculated to dispel at
+once the effect which the countenance of a great actor, in such
+circumstances, would naturally produce, than bringing any one on the
+stage to personate the ghost; and whoever has seen Talma in this part,
+will acknowledge that the mind is not disposed to doubt, for an instant,
+the existence of that form which no eye but his has seen, and of that
+voice which no ear but his has heard. We regretted much, while
+witnessing the astonishing powers which Talma displayed in this very
+difficult part of the play, that it was impossible to see his genius
+employed in giving effect to the character of Aristodemo, (in the
+Italian tragedy of that name by Monti), to which his talents alone could
+do justice, and which, perhaps, affords more room for the display of the
+actor's powers, than any other play with which we are acquainted.
+
+But the soliloquy on death is the part in which the astonishing
+excellence and genius of Talma are most strikingly displayed. Whatever
+difficulty there may often be to determine the particular manner in
+which scenes, with other characters, ought to be performed, there is no
+difference of opinion as to the manner in which soliloquies ought in
+general to be delivered. How comes it, then, that these are the very
+parts in which all feel that the powers of the actors are so much tried,
+and in which, for the most part, they principally fail? No one can have
+paid any attention to the English stage, without being struck with the
+circumstance, that while there may be much to praise in the performance
+of the other parts, many of the best actors uniformly fail in
+soliloquies; and that it is only of late, since the reputation of the
+English stage, has been so splendidly revived, that we have seen these
+difficult and interesting parts properly performed. It is in this
+circumstance, more than any other, in which the talents of Talma are
+most remarkably displayed, because he is peculiarly fitted, by his
+complete personation of character, and the deep interest which he seems
+himself to take in the part he is sustaining, to excel in performing
+what chiefly requires such interest. He is, at all times, so fully
+impressed with the feelings, which, under such circumstances, must have
+been really felt, that one is uniformly struck with the truth and
+propriety of every thing he does; and of course, in soliloquies, which
+must be perfect, when the actor appears to be seriously and deeply
+interested in the subjects on which he is meditating, Talma invariably
+succeeds. In this soliloquy in Hamlet, he is completely absorbed in the
+awful importance of the great question which occupies his attention, and
+nothing indicates the least consciousness of the multitude which
+surrounds him, or even that he is giving utterance to the mighty
+thoughts which crowd upon his mind. "Talma ne faisoit pas un geste,
+quelquefois seulement il remuoit la tête pour questioner la terre et le
+ciel sur ce que c'est que la mort! Immobile, la dignité de la meditation
+absorboit tout son etre."--De l'Allemagne, 1. c. We could wish to avoid
+any attempt to describe the acting of Talma in those passages which the
+eloquence of M. de Stael has rendered familiar throughout Europe; yet we
+feel that this account of the tragedy of Hamlet would be imperfect, if
+we did not allude to that very interesting scene, which corresponds, in
+the history of the play, to the closet scene in Shakespeare. Talma
+appears with the urn which contains the ashes of his father, and whose
+injured spirit he seems to consult, to obtain more proof of the guilt
+which he is to revenge, or in the hope that the affections of human
+nature may yet survive the horrors of the tomb, and that the duty of
+the son will not be tried in the blood of the parent who gave him birth.
+But no voice is heard to alter the sentence which he is doomed to
+execute; and he is still compelled to prepare himself to meet with
+sternness his guilty mother. After charging her, with the utmost
+tenderness and solemnity, with the knowledge of her husband's murder, he
+places the urn in her hands, and requires her to swear her innocence
+over the sacred ashes which it contains. At first, the consciousness
+that Hamlet could only _suspect_ her crime, gives her resolution to
+commence the oath with firmness; and Talma, with an expression of
+countenance which cannot be described, awaits, in triumph and joy, the
+confirmation of her innocence,--and seems to call upon the spirit which
+had haunted him, to behold the solemn scene which proves the falsehood
+of its mission. But the very tenderness which he shews destroys the
+resolution of his mother, and she hesitates in the oath she had begun to
+pronounce. His feelings are at once changed,--the paleness of horror,
+and fury of revenge, are marked in his countenance, and his hands grasp
+the steel which is to punish her guilt: But the agony of his mother
+again overpowers him, at the moment he is about to strike; he appeals
+for mercy to the shade of his father, in a voice, in which, as M. de
+Stael has truly said, all the feelings of human nature seem at once to
+burst from his heart, and, in an attitude humbled by the view of his
+mother's guilt and wretchedness, he awaits the confession she seems
+ready to make: and when she sinks, overcome by the remorse and agony
+which she feels, he remembers only that she is his mother; the affection
+which had been long repressed again returns, and he throws himself on
+his knees, to assure her of the mercy of Heaven. We do not wish to be
+thought so presumptuous as to compare the talents of the French author
+with the genius of Shakespeare, but we must be allowed to say, that we
+think this scene better managed for dramatic effect: and certainly no
+part of Hamlet, on the English stage, ever produced the same impression,
+or affected us so deeply. We are well aware, however, how very different
+the scene would have appeared in the hands of any other actors than
+Talma and Madle Duchesnois, and that a very great part of the merit
+which the play seemed to possess, might be more justly attributed to the
+talents which they displayed. At the conclusion of this great tragedy,
+which has become so popular in France, and in which the genius of Talma
+is so powerfully exhibited, the applause was universal; and after some
+little time, to our surprise, instead of diminishing, became much
+louder; and presently a cry of Talma burst out from the whole house. In
+a few minutes the curtain drew up, and discovered Talma waiting to
+receive the applause with which they honoured him, and to express his
+sense of the distinction paid to him.
+
+The part of Orestes in Andromaque, is another character in which the
+acting of Talma is seen to much advantage: and to a foreigner, it is
+peculiarly interesting, as it displays, more than any other almost, that
+uncommon power of recitation which distinguishes his acting from the
+tame and monotonous declamation of the ordinary actors; and which gives
+to the splendid language, and elevated sentiments of the French
+tragedies, an effect which cannot easily be understood by any one who
+has never seen them well performed. The part is one which is remarkably
+popular at present in Paris, as there is something in the history of
+that fabulous being, who has been represented as the victim of a
+capricious and arbitrary Providence, and exposed during his whole life
+to the most unmerited and horrible torments, which seems greatly to
+interest the French people; and Talma has thus been led to bestow upon
+the character a degree of reflection and preparation, which the parts
+in a French tragedy do not in general require. There is a passage which
+occurs in the first scene, which exhibits very strikingly the judgment
+and genuine feeling which uniformly marks his acting. After mentioning
+what had happened to him after his disappointment, with regard to
+Hermione, and his separation from Pylades, he says, that he had hastened
+to the great assembly of the Greeks, which the common interest of Greece
+had called together, in the hope, that the ardour, the activity, and the
+love of glory which had distinguished the period of youth, might revive
+with the animating scene which was again presented to his mind.
+
+    "En ce calme trompeur J'arrivai dans la Grece
+    Et Je trouvois d'abord ces princes rassemblès,
+    Qu'un peril assez grand sembloit avoir troublès.
+    J'y courus. Je pensai que la guerre et la gloire
+    De soins plus importants remplissoit ma memoire
+    Que mes sens reprenant leur premiere vigueur
+    L'amour acheveroit de sortir de mon cœur.
+    Mais admire avec mois le sort, dont la pursuite
+    Me fait courir alors au piege que j'evite."
+
+There is a similar passage in Othello, in which, when the passion of
+jealousy had seized upon his mind, the Moor laments the degradation to
+which he had fallen, when all the objects of his former ambition ceased
+to interest his imagination, or animate his exertions. In enumerating
+the occupations which formed the pomp and glorious circumstance of war,
+but for which the misery of his situation had completely unmanned him,
+the actors who have attempted this character, fire with the description
+of the arms which he now abandons, and of the scenes in which his renown
+had been acquired. In this analogous passage, Talma repeats these scenes
+with much greater propriety and effect. He appeared overwhelmed by a
+deep sense of the degradation to which a foolish and unmanly attachment
+had reduced him; no gesture or tone of voice, expressive of the
+slightest animation, escaped him, when he described the objects of his
+youthful ambition; every thing denoted the shame and regret of a man who
+felt that his glory and his occupation were gone, and who no longer
+dared to look up with pride to the remembrance of those better days,
+when his valour and his resolution were the admiration of Greece.
+
+The scene between Orestes and Hermione on their first meeting, is one in
+which Talma displays very great power: with his heart full of the
+passion from which he had suffered so much, he begins the declaration of
+his constancy in the most ardent and impressive manner, and for a time
+seems to flatter himself, that resentment at the neglect which she had
+met with from Pyrrhus might have awakened some affection for himself in
+the breast of Hermione. At first she is anxious to secure Orestes in
+case that Pyrrhus should ultimately slight her, and is at pains to
+confirm the hope which she perceives that this passion had created: But
+when he urges her to take the opportunity which how offered itself, of
+leaving a court where she appeared to be detained only to witness the
+marriage of her rival, she betrays at once the state of her mind:--
+
+      "Mais, seigneur, cependant s'il epouse Andromaque.
+      _Oreste_. Hé, madame.
+      _Her_. Songez quelle honte pour nous,
+    Si d'une Phrygienne il devenoit lepoux.
+      _Oreste_. Et vous le haissez!"--&c.
+
+The indignant and bitter irony with which Talma delivers this speech,
+when he finds that resentment at Pyrrhus, and not affection for himself,
+has made her thus anxious to rivet the chains which her former cruelty
+had hardly weakened, is most striking, and he seems at once to regain
+the independence which he had lost.
+
+There is another passage of very peculiar interest, which we hope it
+will not be prolonging these remarks too far to quote, as affording a
+very striking instance of the effect which the powers of Talma are able
+to produce, under almost any circumstances. When Pyrrhus, at one part of
+the play, consents to surrender Astyanax, and by this rupture with
+Andromache, resolves to marry Hermione, Orestes is thrown at once into
+the utmost despair by this sudden change of plans, and by this
+disappointment of his hopes. When he again appears with Pylades, he
+threatens to take the most violent measures, to interrupt this marriage,
+and to carry off Hermione by force from the court where she was
+detained. His friend naturally feels for the wound which his fame must
+suffer from such an outrage, and the dishonour which it would bring upon
+a name rendered sacred throughout Greece, from the unmerited misfortunes
+which he had sustained. "Voila donc le succès qu'aura votre ambassade.
+Oreste ravisseur." But such considerations are of no avail in the
+intemperance of his present feelings; and Orestes, after alluding to the
+injury of a second rejection by Hermione, proceeds to another motive,
+which urged him to any means, however violent to secure his object, and
+which most powerfully interests the imagination. Every one knows the
+supposed history of that mysterious character, whose destiny seemed to
+have placed him at the disposal of some unrelenting enemy of the human
+race, and who had suffered every misfortune which could oppress human
+nature.
+
+    "--Mais, s'il faut ne te rien deguiser
+    Mon innocence enfin commence a me peser,
+    Je ne sais, de tout tems, quelle injuste puissence
+    Laisse le crime en paix, et poursuit l'innocence,
+    De quelque part sur moi que je trouve les yeux,
+    Je ne vois que malheurs qui condamnent lea Dieux,
+    Meritons leur courroux, justifions leur haine,
+    Et que le fruit du crime en précéde la peine."
+
+It is a remark of Seneca, that the most sublime spectacle in nature is
+the view of a great man _struggling against_ misfortune, and such a
+character has ever been considered as the most appropriate subject for
+dramatic representation. The extreme difficulty of succeeding, in the
+very important passage which I have quoted, is obviously because the
+very reverse of such a spectacle is now presented to the mind,--when
+Orestes is made to abandon that distinction in _his fate_ which alone
+gave him any peculiar hold over the feelings of the spectators, and
+because the actor must continue to engage, even more deeply than
+before, their _interest_ and their _pity_, at the very time when the
+sentiments he utters must necessarily lower the dignity of the character
+he sustains, and diminish the compassion he had previously awakened.
+How, then, is that ascendency over the mind, which the singular destiny
+of Orestes naturally acquires, to be preserved, when he no longer is to
+be regarded as the innocent sufferer who claims our interest, and when
+he is content to descend to the level of ordinary men? In this very
+difficult passage Talma is eminently successful; no vehemence of manner
+accompanies the desperate resolution he expresses, the recollection of
+the misery he has suffered, and the dread of the greater misfortunes
+which his present intentions must bring upon him, seem wholly to
+overpower him, and his countenance, marked with the utmost dejection and
+wretchedness, appears still to appeal for mercy to the power which
+persecutes him. Everything in his appearance and voice conveys the
+impression of a person overwhelmed with misfortunes, and hurried on, by
+an impulse he cannot controul, into greater calamities, and more
+complicated misery. The very sentiment which he avows, seems to proceed
+from the over-ruling influence of a destiny which he has in vain
+attempted to resist, and to be only another proof of the unceasing
+persecution to which he is exposed; and though he no longer commands
+admiration, or deserves esteem, he becomes more than ever the object of
+the deepest commiseration. Talma appears to attach much importance to
+the impression which this passage may produce, as much of the view which
+he exhibits of the character of Orestes seems intended to assist its
+effect; and we certainly consider it as the greatest and most successful
+effort of _genius_, which we have ever seen displayed upon any stage.
+After witnessing this representation of the character of Orestes at this
+melancholy period of his life, it was with no ordinary interest that we
+shortly after saw Talma perform the part of Orestes in Iphigénie en
+Tauride, a play which represents very beautifully the only event in his
+life, which ever seemed likely to secure his happiness, the discovery of
+his sister; and we shall never forget the beautiful expression of
+Talma's countenance, and the delightful tones of his voice, when he
+described to his sister and his friend, the emotions which the feeling
+of happiness so new to him had created, and the hopes of future exertion
+and honour, which he now felt himself able to entertain.
+
+The last scene of this interesting tragedy is the most celebrated and
+most admired part in the range of Talma's characters, and undoubtedly it
+is impossible to find any acting more admirable or more affecting: After
+the death of Pyrrhus, he rushes upon the stage to inform Hermione that
+he had obeyed her dreadful commission, and to receive the reward of such
+a proof of his attachment; the horror of the crime which he had
+committed is sunk in his confidence of the claim he has now acquired to
+her gratitude, and he triumphantly relates the circumstances of the
+scene which had passed, as giving him such undeniable titles to the
+reward which had been promised to his firmness.--Madame de Stael has
+mentioned the effect he gives to the short and feeble reply which he
+makes, when Hermione accuses him of cruelty, and throws all the guilt of
+the murder on himself;--but it is in the subsequent part that he appears
+so great: After Hermione leaves him, and he recovers in some degree of
+the stupor which such an unexpected attack had produced, he repeats, in
+a hurried manner, the circumstances of his situation, and dwells on the
+perfidy of Hermione; but when he finds no palliation for his crime, and
+sees how completely he has been degraded by his unmanly weakness, the
+whole enormity of his guilt comes full upon his mind, and he acquires
+even dignity in the opinion of the beholder, from the solemn and
+emphatic manner in which he curses the folly and inhumanity of his
+conduct. But a further blow awaits him; and it is not till Pylades
+informs him of the death of Hermione, that the horrors of madness begin
+to seize on his mind. At first he remains motionless and thunderstruck
+with the dreadful issue of his enterprise; then, in a low and thrilling
+tone of voice, he laments the bitterness and misery of that destiny by
+which he is doomed to be for ever the victim of fate, (du malheur un
+modêle accompli,) till the wildness of madness comes over him: In a
+voice hardly heard, he seems to ask himself, "Quelle épaisse nuit tout a
+coup m'environne, de quelle coté sortir? D'ou-vient que je frissonne.
+Quelle horreur me saisit?"--and at once a shriek, dreadful beyond all
+description, announces the destruction of reason, and the agonies of
+madness. It is vain to describe the wild, desperate, and horrifying
+manner in which he represents Orestes tortured by the frightful visions
+with which the furies had visited his mind, till his nature, exhausted
+by such intense sufferings, sinks at once into a calm, more dreadful
+even than the wildness which had preceded it.
+
+These remarks have been extended so much beyond the limits which can be
+interesting to those who have never seen this unrivalled actor, and to
+whom they can convey so very inadequate a notion of his powers, that it
+is impossible to make any further observations, which his performance in
+other characters may have suggested. The most interesting character,
+perhaps, in which we saw him perform after these, was Nero in
+Britannicus. Every person who has been in Paris, since the collection of
+statues was brought there, must have remarked the striking resemblance
+of Talma's countenance to the first busts of Nero; and this singular
+circumstance, along with the admirable manner in which he represents the
+impatient, headstrong, and profligate tyrant, rendered his acting in
+this character remarkably interesting. The opportunities Which he
+enjoyed of studying the character and the manner of Bonaparte,--who
+never forgot the assistance he received from Talma, when he first
+entered that city, where he was afterwards to govern with such unbounded
+power,--must have been present to his mind when he was preparing this
+difficult character; and if it is supposed that he must have been, even
+with this advantage, little able to imagine correctly the manner and
+deportment of so singular a character as the Roman Emperor, none will
+question the judgment, on this point, of that extraordinary person,
+under whose tyranny Talma so long lived, and who, as Talma has often
+declared, did actually suggest many improvements in the manner in which
+he had first acted the part.
+
+Mademoiselle Georges, the great tragic actress, was reckoned at one time
+the most beautiful woman in France. She is now grown very large, and her
+movements are, from that cause, stiff and constrained; but she is still
+a fine woman, and her countenance, though not very striking at first
+sight, is capable of wonderful variety and intensity of expression; her
+style of acting may be said to be intermediate between the matronly
+dignity and majestic deportment of Mrs Siddons, and the enchanting
+sweetness and feminine graces of Miss O'Neil. In the delineation of
+strong feelings and violent passions, of grief, madness, or despair, she
+will not suffer from comparison with either of these actresses; but we
+should doubt whether she can ever have inspired as much moral sympathy
+and admiration as the one has always commanded, by the elevation and
+grandeur of her representation of characters of exalted virtue, and the
+other daily wins, by the interesting tenderness of her manner, by the
+truth and energy of her impassioned scenes, and the overpowering pathos
+of her distress.
+
+The tragedy of Å’dipe, by Voltaire, affords room for the display of the
+most characteristic qualities of Talma and Mademoiselle Georges; and
+when we saw them act Å’dipus and Jocasta in this piece, we agreed that
+there were certainly no actor and actress, of equally transcendent
+merit, who act together in either of the London theatres. The distress
+of the play is of too horrible and repulsive a kind, we should conceive,
+to be ever admitted on the English stage; but it furnishes occasion for
+the display of consummate art in the imitation of the most terrible and
+overpowering emotions; and it is difficult to conceive a more powerful
+representation than they exhibited of the gloomy forebodings of
+suspicion, of the agonizing suspence of unsatisfied doubt, and the
+"sickening pang of hope deferred"--heightened, rather than diminished,
+by the consciousness of innocent intention, and the feeling of
+undeserved affliction, and giving way only to the certainty of
+irretrievable misery, and the phrenzy of utter despair.
+
+In concluding these remarks, upon a subject which interested us so much,
+we are anxious to offer some general reflections upon the character of
+the French stage, which were suggested by the observations we had an
+opportunity of making. It is far from being our intention, to enter into
+any discussion of the rules upon which the construction of their
+tragedies is supposed to depend, or to occupy the time of our readers,
+by useless remarks upon the sacrifices which it is said must be made, by
+strictly observing the _unities_ in dramatic compositions. Quite enough
+is known of the _defects_ of the French tragedy, and it is much to be
+regretted, that those who have had an opportunity of attending the
+French theatre, have generally carried their national prejudices along
+with them, and seem to have been more desirous to confirm the
+prepossessions they had previously acquired, than to form any fair and
+correct estimate of the merits of that drama. We are a little aware in
+general in this country, how much the composition of our own tragedies
+might be improved, and how much the effect of the talents which the
+stage displays might be increased, were we as candid in admitting the
+very great excellencies which the French stage possesses, as we have
+been desirous to discover its imperfections. Without presuming to
+attempt an examination of the French theatre, in the view of correcting
+what appear to us the errors in the public taste, we mean merely to
+state in what respects it appeared to us, that the impression left on
+the mind by the French tragedies is stronger and more lasting than any
+that we have experienced from attending our own theatres. Our conviction
+of the general superiority of the English stage has been already
+expressed, and therefore we hope we shall not be misapprehended in the
+object which we have in view in such remarks.
+
+1. In the first place, then, we would mention--what we hope is not
+necessary to illustrate at any length--the very great impression which
+must be made upon every thoughtful mind, by the unity of emotion which
+the French tragedies are fitted to produce. The effect which may result
+from this unity of emotion appears to excite much deeper interest, than
+can be produced by the mere exertion of the actors' power, when it is
+not uniformly directed to the expression of one general character. It is
+also worthy of consideration, whether the very important purposes to
+which the drama may be rendered subservient, may not be more easily
+accomplished, when the whole tendency of the composition, and the
+influence of acting, are employed in one general and consistent design.
+No such principle seems to have been kept in view in the composition of
+the greater part of the English tragedies. They resemble much, in truth,
+as we have before observed, the scene of human affairs, which the
+general aspect of the world presents,--full of every variety of
+incident, and depending upon the actions of a number of different
+characters. In the principal subject of the play, many seem to perform
+parts nearly of equal importance, and to be equally concerned in the
+issue of the story; each personage has his separate interest to claim
+our attention, and peculiar features of character, which require nice
+discrimination; and in general, no one character, or one subject, is
+sufficiently presented to view. The minds of the spectators, therefore,
+are oppressed and distracted by the variety of _feelings_ which are
+excited, and their interest interrupted and dissipated, in some degree,
+from the _variety of objects_ which claim it. The _general impression_,
+therefore, left upon the mind, is less pointed, less profound, and must
+produce less influence upon character, than when the feelings have been
+steadily and powerfully interested in the consequences of one marked
+and important event, or in the illustration of one great moral truth.
+
+2. We must be permitted to state, in the second place, that we think the
+French theatre is decidedly superior to our own, in the propriety and
+discrimination with which they keep out of view many of those
+exhibitions, which, on the English stage, are studiously brought forward
+with a view to effect: It would be altogether useless, to enter into any
+discussion of a question which has often been the subject of much idle
+controversy; nor should we be able, we know, to suggest any thing which
+could have any influence with those who think, that all the murders, and
+battles, and bustle, which occur in many of the grander scenes in the
+English tragedies, can increase the interest which such tragedies might
+produce, or contribute to the effect of theatrical illusion. We were not
+fortunate enough to see Talma in Ducis' play of Macbeth, where the
+difference between the French and English stage in this particular is
+very strongly illustrated; but from every thing we have, understood, of
+the wonderful impression which is produced, when he describes his
+interview with the weird sisters--the terrors which accompanied their
+appearance, and the feelings which their predictions awakened, we are
+persuaded that the effect must be much finer than any thing which can
+result from the feeble attempt to represent all this to the eye.
+Macbeth, however, without the witches, and all the clumsy machinery
+which is employed on the stage to carry through so impracticable a
+scene, would appear stripped of its principal beauties to the taste of a
+great part of an English audience; and yet we are perfectly convinced,
+that there is no one imperfection, in the plan or composition of the
+French tragedies, so deserving of censure, as the taste which can admit
+such representations on the stage. We allude, of course, entirely to the
+attempt to introduce this celebrated scene upon the stage; none can
+admire more than we do, the powerful and creative imagination which it
+displays.
+
+3. The next circumstance to which we allude, is that very remarkable
+one--of the dignity of sentiment, and elevation of thought, which
+uniformly characterise the compositions of the French stage. This is a
+perfection which, we believe, has never been denied by any one who is in
+any degree acquainted with these productions; and therefore we are
+anxious, as that very excellence has sometimes been thought to unfit
+them for actual representation, merely to state, from our own
+experience, the very great impression which such lofty and dignified
+sentiments, in the composition of the play, are fitted to produce. For
+ourselves we can say, that no dramatic representation on the English
+stage produced the same permanent effect with some of the greater
+compositions of the French tragedy; and we cannot but consider much of
+their influence to be owing to the sublime and elevating sentiments with
+which they abound. We could wish to see the tone of the tragedies which
+are _now_ presented for the English stage, animated by the same strain
+of dignified thought, and become more worthy of the approbation of a
+great, and enlightened, and virtuous people.
+
+Simple as these observations may appear, they yet suggest what we must
+consider as most important improvements in the composition and character
+of the English drama: The only tragedies which have been written for
+many years for our stage are, with a few exceptions, undeniably the
+feeblest productions in any branch of the national literature, and have
+in general carried, to the utmost extreme, the imperfections which
+existed in the works of those earlier writers whose genius and natural
+feeling they have never been able to equal. Whenever any change does
+occur in the character and tone of the tragedies of the English stage,
+we are persuaded that much will be gained by further acquaintance with
+the dramatic representations of the French theatre; and that the defects
+of our own theatre can only be avoided, by imitating some of the
+perfections of that drama, which we are accustomed at present so hastily
+to censure.
+
+We have only now to remark, that while the works of Corneille, of
+Racine, and Voltaire, must ever remain conspicuous in the French drama,
+we shall judge very erroneously of the present character of the French
+stage, if we are only acquainted with these compositions of earlier
+times. The consequences of the revolution have been felt in the tone of
+dramatic composition, as in every other branch of literature, and in
+every condition of society. The misfortunes which all classes of the
+people have sustained,--the anxiety, and suspence, and terror, which
+they so often felt, and the insecurity which so long seemed to attend
+every enjoyment of human life, accustomed them so much to scenes of deep
+interest, and to profound emotion, that it became necessary, in the
+theatre, to have recourse to more powerful means of exciting their
+compassion, and engaging their interest, than was always afforded by
+the tragedies of the old writers. The same change, then, which is
+observable in many other branches of the French literature of late
+years, seems to have taken place, to a considerable extent, in
+compositions for the stage; and from the serious and melancholy turn
+which was often given to the public mind, it has become requisite, in
+later writings, to introduce subjects of deeper interest, and more
+fitted to affect the imagination in moments of strong popular feeling,
+and of great national danger. Many of the reflections, therefore, which
+such circumstances suggested, have been introduced into the tragedies
+which have been composed during the very eventful period which has
+elapsed since the commencement of the revolution; and the authors have
+adapted, in a considerable degree, the interest, or the management of
+their plays, to those peculiar sentiments which the character of that
+period had given to the people. These sentiments may not always indicate
+very sound principle, or very elevated feeling, but, in the turn which
+has sometimes been given to the French plays, they are made to favour
+the introduction of much poetical beauty, and much dramatic interest. We
+have already mentioned, that there appears to be a vague, but general
+impression of the influence of _fatality_ upon human conduct, floating
+in the public mind; and though such a notion, probably, is seldom
+admitted in the shape of a distinct doctrine, many circumstances
+indicate, that among the body of the people, and among the army in
+particular, the influence of this superstition is very considerable. It
+is appealed to in many of those political writings which best indicate
+the feelings of those to whom they are addressed; and we have all
+remarked how much and how artfully their late ruler availed himself of
+this belief, to connect the ascendancy of his arms, and the prosperity
+of his dynasty, with the destiny of human affairs. On several very
+important occasions, the utmost possible interest has been given to the
+history of particular characters, in many recent tragedies, by employing
+this powerful feeling in the public mind; and it was very apparent, that
+the spectators took peculiar interest in the denouement of the plays in
+which this subject was introduced.
+
+In the works of Ducis, of Raynouard, and of several other recent
+writers, and in many of the plays formed from tragedies of the German
+school, very strong indications are to be found of the effect of the
+circumstances in which the people have been placed, in giving, in some
+respects, a new tone to dramatic compositions, and in calling forth
+productions of deeper interest, and capable of exciting more profound
+emotion, than could generally be produced by the works of the earlier
+periods of French literature.
+
+It is an animating proof of the ascendancy of virtuous feeling, and a
+striking illustration of the tendency of great assemblies of men, when
+not actuated by particular passions, to join in what is generous and
+elevated in human thought, that not only have the tragedies of the
+earlier writers continued to be universally admired, and constantly
+acted during the whole period of the revolution, but that the standard
+of sentiment has not been lowered in those productions which have been
+designed expressly for the French stage during that period, and that the
+dignity of ancient virtue, and the elevation of natural feeling, still
+ennoble the tone of French tragedy.
+
+* * *
+
+The French comedies and comic acting are not less characteristic of the
+people than their tragedies. They are a gay and lively, but not a
+humorous people. A Frenchman enters into amusements with an eagerness
+and relish, of which, in this country, we have no conception; all his
+cares and sorrows are forgotten; all his serious occupations are
+postponed; all his unruly passions are calmed;--he thinks neither of his
+individual misfortunes, nor of his national degradation; neither of the
+friends whom he has lost in the war, nor of the foreign soldiers whom it
+has placed at his elbow; his whole soul is absorbed in the game, in the
+dance, or in the _spectacle_. But his object is not laughter, or passive
+enjoyment, or relaxation; it is the excitation of his spirits, the
+occupation, and interest, and agitation of his mind, the varied
+gratification of his senses, the exercise of his fancy, the display of
+his wit, and taste, and politeness.
+
+The exhibitions at the theatres are accommodated to this taste. With the
+exception of some of Moliere's works, such as the Bourgeois Gentilhomme,
+and M. de Pourceaugnac, (which are seldom acted, at least at the Theatre
+Français), there are hardly any French comedies which are characterised
+by what we call humour,--which have for their main object the
+representation of palpably ludicrous peculiarities of character and
+manner. You never hear, in a French theatre, the same loud
+uncontrollable bursts of laughter, which are so often excited by
+representations of this kind in London. There are no such actors, at the
+principal theatres, as Matthews, or Liston, or Bannister, or Munden, or
+Emery, whose principal merit lies in mimicry and buffoonery. There are
+hardly any entertainments corresponding in character to our farces; the
+after-pieces are short comedies, and characters in low life are
+introduced into them, not as objects of derision, but of interest and
+sympathy.
+
+On the other hand, operas and genteel comedies, which are esteemed only
+by the higher ranks in England, are a favourite amusement of all ranks
+in France. The qualities which are most highly prized in the comedies,
+are, interest and variety of incident and situation, wit and liveliness
+of dialogue, and a certain elevation and elegance of character.
+
+Regarding the character of the French tragedies, there will always be
+much difference of opinion; and many, probably, of those who have had
+the best opportunities of studying them, as performed upon the stage at
+Paris, may yet retain nearly the same judgment concerning them which
+they formed in reading them in the closet. And we are willing to admit,
+that admirable as they appear to us in many respects, they are not well
+adapted to become popular in this country. But the excellencies and
+unrivalled elegance of the French comedy, have been at all times
+universally admitted, while there is this great distinction between
+them and the tragedies of the French school, that however great the
+pleasure we may take in reading them, no one ever saw them well
+performed, without acknowledging, that until then, he had no conception
+of the astonishing field which they afford for the display of the
+actor's power, or of the innumerable charms which they possess as
+dramatic compositions.
+
+Everything that ever was amiable and engaging in the character of the
+French people; the elegance and _bon-hommie_ of their manners, which
+served as a passport to the French in every country in Europe, and
+softened the feelings of national resentment with which their ambition
+and their arrogance to other nations had taught many to regard them as a
+people; their well-known superiority to other nations in those
+circumstances, which render them agreeable and pleasant in society, in
+their constant attention and accommodation to the wishes and pursuits of
+others, in that anxiety to please, to entertain, and to promote the
+interests and happiness of others, which costs so little to those who
+are never subject to that unhappy irregularity of temper and spirit, so
+visible to all foreigners in the character of the English people, and
+which never fails to secure esteem, and to interest the affections,
+while superior worth, less happily gifted for the common purposes and
+intercourse of life, may be regarded with no warmer feeling than that of
+distant respect; the _loyauté_ and frankness once so closely associated
+with the history and character of the French people; the manliness which
+taught them at once to admit and to repair the wrongs which their
+impetuosity of spirit, or their harshness of feeling, might have
+occasioned, and the gallantry with which they were wont to defend with
+their sword what their honour bound them to maintain; and above all,
+that delightful and touching _abandon_ of feeling, which seemed the
+result of genuine simplicity, and which appeared to know no reserve,
+only because it knew no guilt; all these beautiful and interesting
+traits, which adorned the character of former and of later days, are
+still preserved in the comedies of their greater writers; the purity of
+former character seems to animate the pages which they write, and the
+spirit of earlier times seems yet to retain its ascendancy, when they
+wish to pourtray the manners of the present day.
+
+In the degradation of the present period, they delight to recall the
+splendour and the renown of the period that is past; and, by preserving
+in their works the character which adorned the French people before the
+profligacy and the insidious policy of a corrupt court disarmed the
+nation of its virtue, to reconcile it to slavery, they attempt to awaken
+a nobler spirit, and lay the foundation of future grandeur. Whatever has
+delighted us in reading the history of the earlier periods of the French
+monarchy, when the elevation of chivalrous feeling, and the
+disinterestedness of simple manners, distinguished the French people,
+and when the character of the great Henry displayed, in a more
+conspicuous station, the virtues which ennobled the duties of private
+life, is yet to be found in their best comedies. Among the many
+thousands who crowd to their numerous theatres, there are many, one
+would hope, who can feel the sad contrast which the last century of
+French history, "fertile only in crime," presents to the honour of
+former times, and in whom may be reviving that lofty and generous spirit
+which may yet redeem the character they have lost.
+
+It seems not a little singular, that this taste in comedy should have
+survived all the disorders of the revolution, and remained unchanged
+amid the general diffusion of military habits and manners. This may be
+partly explained by the circumstance, that the judges by whom theatrical
+exhibitions are mainly regulated, are stationary at Paris, while the
+men, whose actions have stamped the French character of the present day,
+have been dispersed over the world. But it must certainly be admitted,
+that the _taste_ of the French has not undergone an alteration
+corresponding with that which is so obvious in their _manners_; and has
+not degenerated to the degree that might have been expected, from the
+diffusion of revolutionary ideas and licentious habits. The Theatre
+Français affords perhaps the best specimen that now remains of the style
+of conversation, and manners, and costume, of the old school of French
+politeness.
+
+For the representation of pieces bearing the general character which we
+have described, the French are certainly better fitted than any other
+people,--their native gaiety and sprightliness of disposition,--the
+polish which their manners so readily acquire,--their irrepressible
+confidence and self-conceit,--their love of shewing off, and attracting
+attention, give really a stage effect to many of their serious actions,
+and to almost all their trifling conversation and amusements. Hence, a
+stranger is particularly struck with the uniform excellence of the comic
+acting on the French stage; all the inferior parts ate sustained with
+spirit, and originality, and discriminating judgment; all the actors are
+at their ease, and a regular genteel comedy is as well acted
+throughout, as a farce is on the London stage.
+
+The greatest comic actor at the Theatre Français is Fleury. He is an
+actor completely fitted for the French style of comedy. He gives you the
+idea of a perfect gentleman, with much wit and liveliness, and
+consummate confidence and self-possession; who delivers himself with
+inimitable archness and pleasantry, but without the least exaggeration
+or buffoonery; who has too high an opinion of himself and his powers, to
+descend to broad jokes or allusions belonging to the lower kinds of
+humour. Those who have an accurate recollection of the admirable acting
+of Irish Johnstone, in the characters of Major O'Flaherty, or Sir Lucius
+O'Trigger, will have a better conception, than any description of ours
+can convey, of the style of acting in which Fleury so eminently excels.
+
+Whatever may be thought of the other performers, none can see without
+pleasure the performances of that celebrated actress, who has so long
+been the ornament of the national theatre, and to whom the support of
+their comedy has been so long entrusted. During the greatest period of
+the revolution, Mademoiselle Mars has been the favourite and the
+delight of the people of Paris, and there is perhaps no feeling among
+them stronger, or more national, than the pride which they take in her
+incomparable acting; all the grace, and elegance, and genuine feeling
+which she so beautifully displays, they consider as belonging to her
+only because she is a French woman; and nothing would ever convince them
+that, had she been born in any other country, it would have been
+possible that she should possess half the perfections which they now
+admire in her.
+
+Mademoiselle Mars is probably as perfect an actress in comedy as any
+that ever appeared on any stage. She has united every advantage of
+countenance, and voice, and figure, which it is possible to conceive,
+and no one can ever have witnessed her incomparable acting, without
+feeling that the imagination can suggest nothing more completely
+lovely--more graceful, or more natural and touching than her
+representation of character. Mademoiselle Mars has been most exquisitely
+beautiful; and though the period is past when that beauty had all the
+brilliancy and freshness of youth, time appears hardly to have dared to
+lay his chilling hand on that lovely countenance, and she still acts
+characters which require all the naïveté, and gaiety, and tenderness of
+youthful feeling, with every appearance of the spring of human life. It
+is remarked by Cibber, that a woman has hardly time to become a perfect
+actress, during the continuance of her personal attractions. If there
+ever was an exception to this remark, Mademoiselle Mars is one. She was
+an admired actress, we were assured, before the revolution; yet she has
+still, at least on the stage, a light elegant figure, and a countenance
+of youthful animation and beauty, while long experience has given that
+polish and perfection to her acting, which can be derived from no other
+source.
+
+It were in vain to attempt describing the innumerable excellencies which
+render her acting so perfectly enchanting;--the admirable manner in
+which the French comedies are performed is so particular to the stage of
+that country, that it would be quite fruitless to attempt to describe a
+style of acting unknown to the people of Britain; and of that style
+Mademoiselle Mars is the model. Every thing that can result from the
+truest elegance and gracefulness of manners--from the most genuine and
+lively _abandon_ of feeling,--from the most winning sweetness of
+expression, and the greatest imaginable gaiety and benevolence,
+displayed in one of the most beautiful women ever seen, and endowed with
+the most delightful and melodious voice, is united in Mademoiselle
+Mars; and all words were in vain, which would pretend to describe the
+bright and glittering vision which captivates the imagination. It is
+impossible to conceive any thing more perfect as a specimen of art, or
+more beautiful as an imitation of nature, than her representation of the
+kind of heroine most commonly to be found in a French comedy; lively and
+playful, yet elegant and graceful; entering with ardour into amusements,
+yet capable of deep feeling and serious reflection: fond of admiration
+and flattery, yet innocent and modest; full of petty artifice and
+coquetry, yet natural and unaffected in affairs of importance;
+capricious and giddy in appearance, but warm-hearted and affectionate in
+reality. It is a character to which there is a kind of approximation
+among many French women; and if it were as well supported by them in
+real life, as by her on the stage, it would be difficult even for French
+vanity to describe the fascination of their manner, in terms of
+admiration which would not command general assent. There is much
+variety, it must be added, in her powers. On one occasion, we saw her
+act Henriette in Les Femmes Savantes of Moliere, and Catau La Partie de
+Chasse de Henri IV, an£ it was difficult to say whether most to admire
+the wit, and elegance, and police raillery of the woman of fashion, or
+the innocent gaiety, and interesting naïveté of the simple peasant girl.
+
+There is no actress at present on the English stage of equal eminence in
+a similar line of parts. The exhibition which can best convey to an
+English reader some slight notion of her enchanting acting, is the
+manner in which Miss O'Neil performs the scene in Juliet with the old
+nurse; because it is probably exactly the manner in which Mademoiselle
+Mars would perform that scene, but cannot afford any conception of her
+excellence in scenes of higher interest and greater feeling. Mrs Jordan
+may have equalled her in gaiety, and probably excelled her in humorous
+expression, but we suspect she must always have been deficient in
+elegance and refinement. The actress who, we think, comes nearest to her
+in genteel comedy, is Mrs Henry Siddons, in her beautiful representation
+of such parts as Beatrice or Viola; but she has not the same appearance
+of natural light-hearted buoyancy and playfulness of disposition; you
+see occasional transient indications of a serious thoughtful turn of
+mind, which assumes gaiety and cheerfulness, rather than passes
+naturally into it; which you admire, because it places the actress in a
+more amiable light, but which takes off from the fidelity and perfection
+of her art.
+
+Wherever Mademoiselle Mars has acted, in every part of France, the
+enthusiasm which she inspires, and the astonishing interest which they
+take in her acting, is such as could be felt only in France. We were
+fortunately in Lyons when she came there, on leaving Paris during the
+course of last summer; and during the few days we were there, nothing
+appeared to be thought of but the merits of this unrivalled actress. The
+interest which the recent visit of _Madame_ had created, was altogether
+lost in the delight which the performance of Mademoiselle Mars had
+occasioned: She was crowned publicly in the theatre with a garland of
+flowers, and a fete was celebrated in honour of her by the public bodies
+and authorities of the town.
+
+* * *
+
+Corresponding to the Opera House in London, there are three theatres in
+Paris; the Odeon, the Opera Comique, and the Academie de Musique. At the
+first of these there is an immense company of musicians, of all kinds;
+and Italian Operas are admirably performed. It is the handsomest, and
+perhaps the most genteelly attended of any of the Parisian theatres.
+The music here, as well as the musicians, are all Italian; and there
+can certainly be no comparison between it and the French, which is
+generally feeble and insipid in pathetic expression, and extravagant and
+bombastic in all attempts at grandeur. The first singer at the Odeon was
+Madame Sessi, who has since been in London; but Madame Morelli, with a
+voice somewhat inferior in power, appeared to us a more elegant actress.
+The performance of Girard on the flute was wonderful, and met with
+extravagant applause, but it was somewhat too laboured and artificial
+for our untutored ears:
+
+The Opera Comique is confined almost exclusively to the sort of
+entertainment which the name expresses: the scenes are generally laid in
+the country, and the characters introduced are of the lower orders: the
+pieces commonly represented belong to the same class, therefore, as the
+English operas, Love in a Village, Rosina, &c. but the dialogue is in
+general more animated, less vulgar in the lower parts, and less
+sentimental in the higher. The number of performers at this theatre is
+not very great; but there are some good singers and dancers, and the
+acting is almost uniformly excellent. Indeed, the French character is
+peculiarly well fitted for assuming the gay and lively tone that
+pervades their _opera buffa_, which may be characterised as amusing and
+interesting in general, rather than comic; as full of spirit and
+vivacity, rather than of humour. Occasionally, however, characters and
+incidents of true humour are introduced; but these are in general
+considered as belonging to a lower species of amusement; and are to be
+found in higher perfection, we believe, in some of the inferior
+theatres, particularly the Theatre des Varietés.
+
+The acting at the Opera Comique appeared to us deserving of the same
+encomiums with the comic acting at the Theatre Français: every part is
+well supported, not with the elegance that characterises the latter
+theatre, but with perfect adaptation to the situation of the characters.
+A Mademoiselle Regnaud, of this theatre, acts with admirable liveliness
+and spirit. Her quarrel and reconciliation with her lover, in "Le
+Nouveau Seigneur du Village," appeared to us a chef d'Å“uvre of the light
+and pleasing style of acting, which suits the character of the French
+comic opera.
+
+The Academie de Musique, (which is celebrated for dancers, not for
+musicians), is on a very different plan from the opera in London. The
+performers being in part supported by government, the prices of
+admission are made very low; and the company, particularly in the
+parterre, or pit, is therefore of a much lower class than in London,
+though perfect decorum is, as usual, uniformly observed. The
+performances at this theatre are, we think, decidedly superior to those
+in the London opera. This superiority consists partly in the pre-eminent
+merits of the first-rate dancers; but chiefly in the uniform excellence
+of the vast number of inferior performers, the beauty of the scenery,
+and the complete knowledge of stage effect, which is displayed in all
+the arrangements of the representations.
+
+We believe there are not at present, on the London stage, any dancers of
+equal merit with Madame Gardel, or Mademoiselle Bigottini. The former of
+these is said to be 45 years of age, and has long been reckoned the best
+figuranté on this stage. Her face is not handsome, but her figure is
+admirably formed for the display of her art, of which she is probably
+the most perfect mistress to be found in Europe. The latter, an Italian
+by birth, is much younger, and if she does not yet quite equal her rival
+in artificial accomplishments, she at least attracts more admirers by
+her youth and beauty; by the exquisite symmetry of her form, and the
+natural grace and elegance of her movements. The one of these is
+certainly the first dancer, and the other is perhaps the most beautiful
+woman in Paris.
+
+But the same unfortunate peculiarity of taste which we formerly noticed
+in the painting and in the gardening of the French, extends to their
+opera dancing; indeed it may be said to be the worst feature of their
+general taste. They are too fond of the exhibition of art, and too
+regardless of the object, to which art should be made subservient.
+Dancing should never be considered as a mere display of agility and
+muscular power. It is then degraded to a level with Harlequin's tricks,
+wrestling, tumbling, or such other fashionable entertainments. The main
+object of the art unquestionably is, to display in full perfection the
+beauty and grace of the human form and movements. In so far as perfect
+command of the limbs is necessary, or may be made subservient to this
+object, it cannot be too much esteemed; but when you pass this limit, it
+not only ceases to be pleasing, but often becomes positively offensive.
+Many of the _pirouettes_, and other difficult movements, which are
+introduced into the _pas seuls, pas de deux_, &c. in which the great
+dancers display their whole powers, however wonderful as specimens of
+art, are certainly any thing but elegant or graceful. The applause in
+the French opera seemed to us to be in direct proportion to the
+difficulty, and to bear no relation whatever to the beauty of the
+performances. A Frenchman regards, with perfect indifference, dances
+which, to a stranger at least, appear performed with inimitable grace,
+because they are only common dances, admirably well executed; but when
+one of the male performers, after spinning about for a long time, with
+wonderful velocity, arrests himself suddenly, and stands immoveable on
+one foot; or when one of the females wheels round on the toes of one
+foot, holding her other limb nearly in a horizontal position--he breaks
+out into extravagant exclamations of astonishment and delight: "Quel a
+plomb! Ah diable! Sacre Dieu!" &c.
+
+But although the principal dances at the Opera, and those on which the
+French chiefly pride themselves, are much injured, in point of beauty,
+by this artificial taste, the execution of the less laboured parts of
+these dances, and of nearly the whole of their common national dances,
+is quite free from this defect, and is, we should conceive, the most
+beautiful exhibition of the kind that is any where to be seen. It is
+only in a city where amusements of all kinds are sought for, not merely
+by way of relaxation, but as matters of serious interest and national
+concern, and where dancing, in particular, is an object of universal and
+passionate admiration, that such numbers of first-rate dancers can be
+found, as perform constantly at the Academie de Musique. The whole
+strength of the company there, which often appeared on the stage at the
+time we speak of, was certainly not less than 150; and there were hardly
+any of these whose performance was not highly pleasing, and did not
+present the appearance of animation and interest in the parts assigned
+them.
+
+Many of the serious operas performed here are exceedingly beautiful;
+they are got up, not perhaps at more expense, nor with more
+magnificence, than the spectacles in London, but certainly with more
+taste and knowledge of stage effect. Tie scenery is beautifully painted,
+and is disposed upon the stage with more variety, and in such a manner
+as to form a more complete illusion, than on any other stage we have
+seen. The music and singing are certainly inferior to what is heard at
+the Odeon, but the acting, where it is not injured by the effect of the
+recitative, is very generally excellent; and the number and variety of
+dances introduced, afford opportunities of displaying all the
+attractions of this theatre.
+
+The pantomimes are uniformly executed with inimitable grace and effect.
+We were particularly pleased with that called L'Enfant Prodigue, in
+which the powers and graces of Mademoiselle Bigottini are displayed to
+all possible advantage. One of the most splendid of the serious operas,
+is that entitled Le Caravansera de Cairo, the scenery of which was
+painted in Egypt, by one of the artists who accompanied Napoleon
+thither, and is beyond comparison the most highly finished and beautiful
+that we have ever seen, and gives an idea of the aspect of that country,
+which no other work of art could convey. Another opera, which attracted
+our attention, was called "Ossian, ou les Bardes." One of the scenes,
+where the heroes and heroines of departed times are seen seated on the
+clouds, displayed a degree of magnificence which made it a fit
+representation of "the dream of Ossian." Some of the Highland scenery in
+this opera was really like nature; and the dresses, particularly the
+cambric and vandyked kilts, bore some distant analogy to the real
+costume of the Highlanders; and although we could not gratify the
+Parisians who sat by us, by admitting the resemblance of the female
+figures, who skipped about the stage with single muslin petticoats, and
+pink and white kid slippers, to the "Montagnardes Ecossaises _c'est a
+dire demi-sauvages_," whom they were intended to represent, we at least
+flattered their vanity, by expressing our wish that the latter had
+resembled the former.
+
+But the most beautiful of all the exhibitions at the Academie de
+Musique, are the ballets which represent pastoral scenes and rural
+fetes, such as Colinette a la Cour, L'Epreuve Villageoise, &c. It is
+singular, that in a city, the inhabitants of which have so entire a
+contempt for rural enjoyments, pieces of this kind should form so
+favourite a theatrical entertainment; but it must be confessed, that
+such scenes as form the subject of these ballets, occur but seldom in
+the course of a country life, and never in the degree of perfection in
+which they are represented in Paris. The union of rustic simplicity and
+innocence, with the polish and refinement which are acquired by
+intercourse with the world, may be conceived by the help of these
+exhibitions, but can hardly be witnessed in real life. The illusion,
+however, when such scenes are exhibited, is exceedingly pleasing; and no
+where certainly is this illusion so perfect as in the Academie de
+Musique, where the charming scenery, the enlivening music, the number
+and variety of characters, which are supported with life and spirit, the
+beauty of the female performers, and the graceful movements, and lively
+animated air of all;--if they do not recall to the spectator any thing
+which he has really witnessed, seem to transport him into the more
+delightful regions in which his fancy has occasionally wandered, and to
+realize for a moment to him, those fairy scenes to which his youthful
+imagination had been familiarized, by the beautiful fictions of poetry
+or romance.
+
+* * *
+
+The Parisian theatres are at all times sources of much amusement and
+delight; but at the time of which we speak, they were doubly
+interesting, as affording opportunities of seeing the most distinguished
+characters of this eventful age; and as furnishing occasional strong
+indications of the state of popular feeling in France. The interest of
+occurrences of this last kind is now gone by, and it is almost
+unnecessary for us to bear testimony to the strong party that uniformly
+manifested itself when any sentiment was uttered expressive of a wish
+for war, of admiration of martial achievements, and of indignation at
+foreign influence, or domestic perfidy, (under which head the conduct of
+Talleyrand and of Marmont was included); and more especially, when the
+success, and glory, and _eternal, immutable, untarnished_ honour of
+France, were the theme of declamation. The applause at passages of this
+last description seemed sometimes ludicrous enough, when the theatres
+were guarded by Russian grenadiers, and nearly half filled with allied
+officers, loaded with honours which had been won in combating the French
+armies.
+
+The majority of the audience, however, appeared always delighted at the
+change of government, and in the opera in particular, the first time
+that the King appeared, the expression of loyalty was long, reiterated,
+and enthusiastic, far beyond our most sanguine anticipations. It would
+have been absurd to judge of the real feelings of the majority of the
+Parisians, still more of the nation at large, from this scene; and it
+was certainly not to be wished, that a blind and devoted loyalty to one
+sovereign should take the place of infatuated attachment to another; yet
+it was impossible not to sympathize with the joy of people who had been
+agitated, during the best part of their lives, by political convulsions,
+or oppressed by military tyranny, but who fancied themselves at length
+relieved from both; and who connected the hope of spending the
+remainder of their days in tranquillity and peace, with the
+recollections which they had received from their fathers, of the
+happiness and prosperity of their country under the long line of its
+ancient kings. It was impossible to hear the national air of "Vive Henri
+Quatre," and the enthusiastic acclamations which accompanied it, without
+entering for the moment into the feeling of unhesitating attachment, and
+unqualified loyalty, which has so long prevailed in most countries of
+the world, but which the citizens of a free country should indulge only
+when it has been deserved by long experience and tried virtue.
+
+It was with different, but not less interesting feelings, that we
+listened to the same tune from the splendid bands of the Russian and
+Prussian guards, as they passed along the Boulevards; on their return to
+their own countries; It was a grand and moving spectacle of political
+virtue, to see the armies which had been arrayed against France,
+striving to do honour to the government which she had assumed:--instead
+of breathing curses, or committing outrages on the great and guilty
+city, which had provoked all their vengeance, to see them march out of
+the gates of Paris with the regularity of the strictest military
+discipline, to the sound of the grand national air, which spoke "peace
+to her walls, and prosperity to her palaces,"--leaving, as it were, a
+blessing on the capital which they had conquered and forgiven: It was a
+scene that left an impression on the mind worthy of the troops who had
+bravely and successfully opposed the domineering power of France,--who
+had struggled with it when it was strongest, and "ruled it when 'twas
+wildest," but who spared it when it was fallen;--who forgot their wrongs
+when it was in their power to revenge them;--who cast the laurels from
+their brows, as they passed before the rightful monarch of France, and
+honoured him as the representative of a great and gallant people, long
+beguiled by ambition, and abused by tyranny, but now acknowledging their
+errors, and professing moderation and repentance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH ARMY AND IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+IT is certainly a mistake to suppose, that the military power of France
+was first created by Napoleon, or that military habits were actually
+forced on the people, with the view of aiding his ambitious projects.
+The French have a restless, aspiring, enterprising spirit, not
+accompanied, as in England, by a feeling of individual importance, and a
+desire of individual independence, but modified by habits of submission
+to arbitrary power, and fitted, by the influence of despotic government,
+for the subordination of military discipline. Add to this, the
+encouragement which was held out by the rapid promotion of soldiers
+during the wars of the revolution, when the highest military offices
+were not only open to the attainment, but were generally appropriated to
+the claims of men who rose from the ranks; and the general
+dissemination, at that period, of an unbounded desire for violence and
+rapine: And it will probably be allowed, that the spirit of the French
+nation, at the time when he came to the head of it, was truly and almost
+exclusively military. He was himself a great soldier; he rose to the
+supreme government of a great military people, and he availed himself of
+their habits and principles to gratify his ambition, and extend his
+fame; but he ought not to be charged with having created the spirit,
+which in fact created him; a spirit so powerful, and so extensively
+diffused, that in comparison with it, even his efforts might be said to
+be "dashing with his oar to hasten the cataract;" to be "waving with his
+fan to give speed to the wind." The favourite saying of Napoleon, "Every
+Frenchman is a soldier, and as such, at the disposal of the Emperor,"
+expresses a principle which was not merely enforced by arbitrary power,
+but engrafted on the character and habits of the French people.
+
+The French are certainly admirably fitted for becoming soldiers: they
+have a restless activity, which surmounts difficulties, a buoyancy and
+elasticity of disposition, which rises superior to hardships, and
+calamities, and privations, not with patient fortitude, but with ease
+and cheerfulness. A Frenchman does not regard war, merely as the serious
+struggle in which his patriotism and valour are to be tried; he loves it
+for its own sake, for the interest and agitation it gives to his mind;
+it is his "game,--his gain,--his glory,--his delight." Other nations of
+Europe have become military, in consequence of threats or injuries, of
+the dread of hostile invasion, of the presence of foreign armies, or the
+galling influence of foreign power; but if the origin of the French
+military spirit may be traced to similar sources, it must at least be
+allowed, that the effect has been out of all proportion to the cause.
+
+It is probable, however, that the effervescence of military ideas and
+feelings, which arose out of the revolution, would have gradually
+subsided, had it not been for the fostering influence of the imperial
+government. The turbulent and irregular energies of a great people let
+loose from former bonds, received a fixed direction, and were devoted to
+views of military ascendancy and national aggrandizement under Napoleon.
+The continued gratification of the French vanity, by the fame of
+victories and the conquest of nations, completed the effect on the
+manner and habits of the people, which the events of the revolution had
+begun. Napoleon well knew, that in flattering this ruling propensity, he
+took the whole French nation on their weak side, and he had some reason
+for saying, that their thirst for martial glory and political influence
+ought to be a sufficient apology to them for all the wars into which he
+plunged them.
+
+It is impossible to spend even a few days in France without seeing
+strong indications of the prevailing love of military occupations, and
+admiration of military merit. The common peasants in the fields shew, by
+their conversation, that they are deeply interested in the glory of the
+French arms, and competent to discuss the manner in which they are
+conducted. In the parts of the country which had been the seat of war,
+we found them always able to give a good general description of the
+military events that had taken place; and when due allowance was made
+for their invariable exaggeration of the number of the allied troops,
+and concealment of that of the French, these accounts, as far as we
+could judge by comparing them with the official details, and with the
+information of officers who had borne a part in the campaign, were
+tolerably correct. The fluency with which they talked of military
+operations, of occupying positions, cutting off retreats, defiling over
+bridges, debouching from woods, advancing and retreating, marching and
+bivouacking, shewed the habitual current of their thoughts; and they
+were always more willing to enter on the details of such operations,
+than to enumerate their own losses, or dwell on their individual
+sufferings.
+
+A similar eagerness to enter into conversation on military subjects, was
+observable in almost all Frenchmen of the lower orders, with whom we had
+any dealings. Our landlord at Paris, a quiet sickly man, who had no
+connection with the army, and who had little to say for himself on most
+subjects, displayed a marvellous fluency on military tactics; and seemed
+to think that no time was lost which was employed in haranguing to us on
+the glory and honour of the French army, and impressing on our minds its
+superiority to the allies.
+
+Indeed, the whole French nation certainly take a pride in the deeds of
+their brethren in arms, which absorbs almost all other feelings; and
+which is the more singular, as it does not appear to us to be connected
+with strong or general affection or gratitude for any particular
+individual. It was not the fame of any one General but the general
+honour of the French arms, about which they seemed anxious. We never met
+with a Frenchman, of any rank, or of any political persuasion, who
+considered the French army as fairly overcome in the campaign of 1814;
+and the shifts and contrivances by which they explained all the events
+of the campaign, without having recourse to that supposition, were
+wonderfully ingenious. The best informed Frenchmen whom we met in Paris,
+even those who did not join in the popular cry of treason and corruption
+against Marmont, regarded the terms granted by Alexander to their city,
+as a measure of policy rather than of magnanimity. They uniformly
+maintained, that the possession of the heights of Belleville and
+Montmartre did not secure the command of Paris: that if Marmont had
+chosen, he might have defended the town after he had lost these
+positions; and that, if the Russians had attempted to take the town by
+force, they might have succeeded, but would have lost half their army.
+Indeed, so confidently were these propositions maintained by all the
+best informed Frenchmen, civil or military, royalist of imperialist,
+whom we met, that we were at a loss whether to give credit to the
+statement uniformly given us by the allied officers, that the town was
+completely commanded by those heights, and might have been burnt and
+destroyed, without farther risk on the part of the assailants, after
+they were occupied. The English officers, with whom we had an
+opportunity of conversing on this subject, seemed divided in opinion
+regarding it; and we should have hesitated to which party to yield our
+belief, had not the conduct of Napoleon and his officers in the campaign
+of the present year, the extraordinary precautions which they took to
+prevent access to the positions in question, by laying the adjacent
+country under water, and fortifying the heights themselves, clearly
+shewn the importance, in a military point of view, which is really
+attached to them.
+
+The credulity of the French, in matters connected with the operations of
+their armies, often astonished us. It appeared to arise, partly from the
+scarcity of information in the country; from their having no means of
+confirming, correcting, or disproving the exaggerated and garbled
+statements which were laid before them; and partly from their national
+vanity, which disposed them to yield a very easy assent to every thing
+that exalted their national character. In no other country, we should
+conceive, would such extravagant and manifestly exaggerated statements
+be swallowed, as the French soldiers are continually in the habit of
+dispersing among their countrymen. From the style of the conversation
+which we were accustomed to hear at _caffés_ and _tables d'hôte_, we
+should conceive, that the French bulletins, which appeared to us such
+models of gasconade, were admirably well fitted, not merely to please
+the taste, but even to regulate the belief, or at least the professions
+of belief, of the majority of French politicians, with regard to the
+events they commemorate.
+
+The general interest of a nation in the deeds and honours of its army,
+is the best possible security for its general conduct; and it must be
+admitted, that in those qualities which are chiefly valued by the French
+nation, the French army was never surpassed; while it is equally
+obvious, that both the army and the people have at present little regard
+for some of the finest virtues which can adorn the character of
+soldiers.
+
+The grand characteristic of the French army, on which both the soldiers
+and the people pride themselves, is what was long ago ably pointed out
+by the author of the "Caractere des Armées Europeennes Actuelles"--the
+individual intelligence and activity of the soldiers. They were taken
+at that early age, when the influence of previous habit is small, and
+when the character is easily moulded into any form that is wished; they
+were accustomed to pride themselves on no qualities, but those which are
+serviceable against their enemies, and they had before them the most
+animating prospect of rewards and promotion, if their conduct was
+distinguished. Under these circumstances, the native vigour, and
+activity, and acuteness of their minds, took the very direction which
+was likely, not merely to make them good soldiers, but to fit them for
+becoming great officers; and this ultimate destination of his
+experience, and ability, and valour, has a very manifest effect on the
+mind of the French soldier. We hardly ever spoke to one of them, of any
+rank, about any of the battles in which he had been engaged, without
+observing, that he had in his head a general plan of the action, which
+he always delivered to us with perfect fluency, in the technical
+language of war, and with quite as much exaggeration as was necessary
+for his purpose. What he wanted in correct information, he would
+assuredly make up with lies, but he would seldom fail to give a general
+consistent idea of the affair; and it was obvious, that the manœuvres
+of the armies, and the conduct of the generals, on both sides, had
+occupied as much of his consideration and reflection, as his own
+individual dangers and adventures.
+
+When we afterwards entered into conversation with some English private
+soldiers, at Brussels and Antwerp, concerning the actions they had seen,
+we perceived a very marked difference. They were very ready to enter
+into details concerning all that they had themselves witnessed, and very
+anxious to be perfectly correct in their statements; but they did not
+appear ever to have troubled their heads about the general plan of the
+actions. They had abundance of technical phrases concerning their own
+departments of the service; but very few words relative to the
+manœuvring of large bodies of men. Their rule seemed to be, to do their
+own duty, and let their officers do theirs; the principle of the
+division of labour seemed to prevail in military, as well as in civil
+affairs, much more extensively in England than in France.
+
+The soldiers of the French imperial guard, in particular, are remarkably
+intelligent, and in general very communicative. We entered into
+conversation with some of these men at La Fere, and from one of them,
+who had been in the great battle at Laon, we had fully as distinct an
+account of that action as we are able to collect, the next day, from
+several officers who accompanied us from St Quentin to Cambray, and who
+had likewise been engaged in it. When we asked him the numbers of the
+two armies on that day, he replied without the least hesitation, that
+the allied army was 100,000 and the French 30,000.--Another of these men
+had been at Salamanca, and after we had granted his fundamental
+assumption, that the English army there was 120,000 strong, and the
+French 40,000, he proceeded to give us a very good account of the
+battle.
+
+These men, as well as almost all the French officers and soldiers with
+whom we had opportunities at different times of conversing, gave their
+opinions of the allied armies without any reserve, and with considerable
+discrimination. Of the Russians and Prussians they said, "Ils savent
+bien faire la guerre; ils sont de bons soldats;" but of the common
+soldiers of these services in particular, they said, "Ils sont tres
+forts, et durs comme l'ame du diable--mais ils sont des veritables
+betes; ils n'ont point d'intelligence. La puissance de l'armée
+Française," they added, with an air of true French gasconade, "est dans
+l'intelligence des soldats."--Of the Austrians, they said, "Ils brillent
+dans leur cavalerie, mais pour leur infanterie, elle ne vaut rien."
+
+From these soldiers we could extract no more particular character of the
+English troops, than "Ils se battent bien," But it is doing no more than
+justice to the French officers, even such as were decidedly imperialist,
+who conversed with us at Paris, and in different parts of the country,
+to acknowledge that they uniformly spoke in the highest terms of the
+conduct of the English troops. The expression which they very commonly
+used, in speaking of the manner in which the English carried on the war
+in Spain, and in France, was, "loyauté." "Les Russes, et les Prussiens,"
+they said, "sont des grands et beauxhommes, mais ils n'ont pas le cœur
+ou la loyauté des Anglais. Les Anglais sont la nation du monde qui font
+la guerre avec le plus de loyauté," &c. This referred partly to their
+valour in the field, and partly to their humane treatment of prisoners
+and wounded; and partly also to their honourable conduct in France,
+where they preserved the strictest discipline, and paid for every thing
+they took. Of the behaviour of the English army in France, they always
+spoke as excellent:--"digne de leur civilization."
+
+A French officer who introduced himself to us one night in a box at the
+opera, expressing his high respect for the English, against whom, he
+said, he had the honour to fight for six years in Spain, described the
+steadiness and determination of the English infantry in attacking the
+heights on which the French army was posted at Salamanca, in terms of
+enthusiastic admiration. Another who had been in the battle of Toulouse,
+extolled the conduct of the Highland regiments in words highly
+expressive of
+
+    "The stern joy which warriors feel,
+    In foemen worthy of their steel."
+
+"Il y a quelques regimens des Ecossais sans culottes," said he, "dans
+l'armée de Wellington, qui se battent joliment." He then described the
+conduct of one regiment in particular, (probably the 42d or 79th), who
+attacked a redoubt defended with cannon, and marched up to it in perfect
+order; never taking the muskets from their shoulders, till they were on
+the parapet: "Si tranquillement,--sacre Dieu! c'etoit superbe."
+
+Of the military talents of the Duke of Wellington they spoke also with
+much respect, though generally with strong indications of jealousy. They
+were often very ingenious in devising means of explaining his
+victories, without compromising, as they called it, the honour of the
+French arms. At Salamanca, they said, that in consequence of the wounds
+of Marmont and other generals, their army was two hours without a
+commander. At Vittoria again, it was commanded by Jourdan, and any body
+could beat Jourdan. At Talavera, he committed "les plus grandes sottises
+du monde; il a fait une contre-marche digne d'un bete." Some of the Duke
+of Wellington's victories over Soult they stoutly denied, and others
+they ascribed to great superiority of numbers, and to the large drafts
+of Soult's best troops for the purpose of forming skeleton battalions,
+to receive the conscripts of 1813.
+
+The French pride themselves greatly on the _honour_ of their soldiers,
+and in this quality they uniformly maintain that they are unrivalled, at
+least on the continent of Europe. To this it is easy to reply, that,
+according to the common notions of honour, it has been violated more
+frequently and more completely by the French army than by any other. But
+this is in fact eluding the observation rather than refuting it. The
+truth appears to be, that the French _soldiers_ have a stronger sense of
+honour than those of almost any other service; but that the _officers_,
+having risen from the ranks, have brought with them to the most exalted
+stations, no more refined or liberal sentiments than those by which the
+private soldiers are very frequently actuated; and have, on the
+contrary, acquired habits of duplicity and intrigue, from which their
+brethren in inferior situations are exempt.
+
+When we say of the French soldiers that they have a strong sense of
+honour, we mean merely to express, that they will encounter dangers, and
+hardships, and privations, and calamities of every kind, with wonderful
+fortitude, and even cheerfulness, from no other motive than an _esprit
+du corps_--a regard for the character of the French arms. Without
+provocation from their enemies, without the prospect of plunder, without
+the hope of victory, without the conviction of the interest of their
+country in their deeds, without even the consolation of expecting care
+or attention in case of wounds or sickness,--they will not hesitate to
+lavish their blood, and sacrifice their lives, _for the glory of
+France_. Other troops go through similar scenes of suffering and danger
+with equal fortitude, when under the influence of strong passions, when
+fired by revenge, or animated by the hope of plunder, or cheered by the
+acclamations of victory; but with the single exception of the British
+army, we doubt whether there are any to whom the mere spirit of military
+honour is of itself so strong a stimulus.
+
+We have already noticed the state of the French sick and wounded, left
+in the hospitals at Wilna during the retreat from Russia; a state so
+deplorable, as to have excited the strongest commiseration among their
+indignant enemies. This, however, was but a single instance of the
+system almost uniformly acted on, we have understood, by the French
+medical staff in Russia, Germany, and Spain, of deserting their
+hospitals on the approach of the enemy, so as to leave to him, if he did
+not chuse to see the whole of the patients perish before his eyes, the
+burden of maintaining them. The miseries which this system must have
+occasioned, in the campaign of 1813 in particular, require no
+illustration.
+
+Another regulation of the French army, during the campaign of that year,
+will shew the utter carelessness of its leaders, in regard to the lives
+or comforts of the soldiers. When the men who were incapacitated for
+service by wounds or disease, were sent back to France, they were
+directed, in the first instance, to Mentz, where their uniforms, and any
+money they might have about them, were regularly taken from them, and
+given to the young conscripts who were passing through to join the
+armies; they were then dressed in miserable old rags, which were
+collected in the adjacent provinces by Jews employed for that purpose,
+and in this state they were sent to _beg_ their way to their homes.
+Such, as we were assured by some of our countrymen, who saw many of
+these men passing through Verdun, was the reward of thousands of the
+"_grande nation_" who had lost their limbs or their health in vainly
+endeavouring to maintain the glory and influence of their country in
+foreign states. In the campaign of 1814, which was carried on during the
+continuance of a frost of almost unprecedented intensity, and in so
+rapid and variable a manner, and with so large bodies of troops, as to
+prevent the establishment of regular hospitals or of any thing like a
+regular Commissariat, the French troops, particularly the young
+conscripts and national guards, suffered dreadfully; and numbers of them
+who escaped the swords of their enemies, perished miserably or were
+disabled for life, in consequence of hardships, and fatigues, and
+privations.
+
+All these examples were known to the French soldiers--they took place
+daily before their eyes, and, in the last instance, the allies took
+pains to let them know, that the only obstacle to honourable peace was
+the obstinacy of their commander; yet their ardour continued unabated;
+the young soldiers displayed a degree of valour in every action of both
+campaigns, which drew forth the warm applause even of their enemies; and
+it is not to be doubted, that the troops whom Napoleon collected at
+Fontainbleau, at the end of the campaign in France, were
+enthusiastically bent on carrying into effect the frantic resolution of
+attacking Paris, then occupied by a triple force of the allies, from
+which his officers with difficulty dissuaded him.
+
+In like manner, there is probably no general but Napoleon, who would not
+have attempted to terminate the miseries of the army during the retreat
+from Moscow, by entering into negotiation with the Russians; nor is
+there any army but the French which would have tamely consented to be
+entirely sacrificed to the obstinacy of an individual. But to have
+concluded a convention with the Russians would have been _compromising
+the honour of the French arms_; and this little form of words seemed to
+strike more terror to the hearts of the French soldiers, than either the
+swords of the Russians, or the dreary wastes and wintry storms of
+Russia, which might have been apostrophised in the words of the poet,
+
+    "Alas! even your unhallowed breath
+    May spare the victim fallen low,
+    But man will ask no truce to death,
+    No bounds to human woe."
+
+"He saw, without emotion, (says Labaume), the miserable remains of an
+army, lately so powerful, defile before him; yet his presence never
+excited a murmur; on the contrary, it animated even the most timid, who
+were always tranquil when in presence of the emperor." At the present
+moment, from all the accounts that we have received, as well as from our
+own observations of those French soldiers whom we have ourselves seen
+after their return from Moscow, the sentiments of the survivors of that
+expedition with regard to Napoleon remained unchanged; and no person who
+has read any of the narratives of the campaign can ascribe their
+constancy to any other cause, than that feeling of attachment to the
+glory of their country, to which the French, however improperly, give
+the name of military honour.
+
+If the character of the French soldiers is deserving of high admiration
+for their constancy and courage, it must be observed, on the other
+hand, that there is a mixture of _selfishness_ in it, an utter disregard
+of the feelings, and indifference as to the sufferings, not merely of
+their enemies, or of the inhabitants of the countries which they
+traverse, but even of their best friends and companions, which forbids
+us to go farther in their praise. It is as unnecessary, as it would be
+painful, to enter on an enumeration of the instances of wanton cruelty,
+violence, and rapacity, which have sullied the fame of their most
+brilliant deeds in arms. It will be long before the French name will
+recover the disgrace which the remembrance of such scenes as Moscow, or
+Saragossa, or Tarragona, has attached to it, in every country of Europe;
+and it is impossible to have a more convincing proof of the tyrannical
+and oppressive conduct of the French armies in foreign states, than the
+universal enthusiasm with which Europe has risen against them,--the
+indignant and determined spirit with which all ranks of every country
+have united to rid themselves of an oppression, not less galling to
+their individual feelings, than degrading to their national character.
+But it is particularly worthy of remark, that the latest and most
+authentic writers in France itself, who have given any account of the
+French armies, have, noticed selfishness, and disregard of the feelings
+of their own comrades, as well as of all other persons, as one of the
+most prominent features of their character. We need only refer to
+Labaume's book on the expedition to Russia, to Miot's work on the
+Egyptian campaigns, or to Rocca's history of the war in Spain, for ample
+proofs of the correctness of this observation. Whether this peculiarity
+is to be ascribed chiefly to their national character, or to the nature
+of the services in which they have been engaged, it is not very easy to
+decide.
+
+The dishonourable conduct of the French officers, particularly of the
+superior officers, in the present year, is much more easily explained
+than excused. They had risen from the ranks--they had been engaged all
+their lives in active and iniquitous services--they had been accustomed
+to look to success as the best criterion of merit, and to regard
+attachment to their leaders and their colours, as the only duties of
+soldiers;--they had never thought seriously on morality or
+religion--they had been applauded by their countrymen and
+fellow-soldiers, for actions in direct violation of both--and they had
+been taught to consider that applause as their highest honour and
+legitimate reward. Under these circumstances, it is easy to see, that
+they could have little information with regard to the true interests of
+France, and that they would regard the most sacred engagements as
+binding only in so far as general opinion would reprobate the violation
+of them; and when a strong party shewed itself, in the nation as well as
+the army, ready to support them and to extol their conduct in rising
+against the government, that their oaths would have no influence to
+restrain them. It is to be considered, likewise, that a large proportion
+of the officers had been originally republicans. They had been engaged
+in long and active military service, and been elated with military
+glory; in the multiplicity of their duties, and the intoxication of
+their success as soldiers, they had ceased to be citizens; but during
+the repose that succeeded the establishment of the Bourbons, when they
+again found themselves in the midst of their countrymen, their original
+political feelings and prejudices returned, embittered and exasperated
+by the influence of their military habits, and the remembrance of their
+military disgraces. We have ourselves conversed with several officers,
+who were strongly attached to Napoleon, but whose political views were
+decidedly republican; and have heard it stated, that the officers of
+artillery and engineers are supposed to be particularly democratic in
+their principles.
+
+It is much easier to account for the conduct of the French army since
+the dethronement of Napoleon, than to point out any means by which that
+conduct could have been altered. It was stated to us at Paris, that the
+number of military officers to be provided for by government, was
+upwards of 60,000. These would certainly comprise a very large
+proportion of the talents and enterprise of the French nation. The
+number of them that can have been sincerely devoted to the Bourbons, or
+that can have been otherwise disposed of since that time, cannot be
+great; nor do we see by what means it will be possible to reconcile the
+majority of this very important class of men, to a government which has
+twice owed its elevation to the discomfiture and humiliation of the
+French arms.
+
+It may be easily conceived, that in an army, the officers of which have,
+for the most part, risen from the ranks, the principles of strict
+military subordination cannot be enforced with the same punctilious
+rigour as in services where a marked distinction is constantly kept up
+between officers and soldiers. There is a more gradual transition from
+the highest to the lowest situations of the French army--a more
+complete amalgamation of the whole mass, than is consistent with the
+views of other governments in the maintenance of their standing armies.
+
+It is true, that a change has taken place in the composition of the
+French army, in this respect, under the imperial government. A number of
+military schools were established and encouraged in different parts of
+the country, and a great number of young men were sent to these by their
+parents, under the understanding, that after being educated in them they
+should become officers at once, without passing through the inferior
+steps, to which they would otherwise have been devoted by the
+conscription. A great number of officers, therefore, have of late years
+been appointed from these schools to the army, who have never served in
+the ranks; but the manners and habits which they acquire at the schools
+are, we should conceive, very little superior to what they might have
+learnt from the private soldiers, who would otherwise have been their
+associates. A comparison of the appearance and manner of the pupils of
+the Ecole Militaire, with those of the young men at the English military
+colleges, would shew, as strongly as any other parallel that could be
+drawn, the difference in respectability and gentlemanlike feeling
+between the English and French officers.
+
+There is so little of uniformity in dress, of regard to external
+appearance, or of shew of subordination, and inferiority to their
+officers, in the French soldiers, that a stranger would be apt to
+consider them as deficient in discipline. The fact is, that they know
+perfectly, from being continually engaged in active service, what are
+the essentials of military discipline, and that they are quite careless
+of all superfluous forms. Whatever regulations are necessary, in any
+particular circumstances, are strictly enforced; and the men submit to
+them, not from any principle of slavish subjection to their officers,
+but rather from deference to their superior intelligence and
+information, and from a regard to the good of the service.
+
+The French army may, in fact, be said to have little of the feelings
+which are truly military. The officers have not the strong feeling of
+humanity, and the high and just sense of honour, not merely as members
+of the army, but as individuals; the soldiers have not the habit of
+implicit obedience and attachment to their peculiar duties; and the
+whole have not the lively sense of responsibility to their country, and
+dependence on their sovereign, which are probably essential to the
+existence of an army which shall not be dangerous, even to the state
+that maintains it. The French army submitted implicitly to Napoleon,
+because he was their general; but we should doubt if they ever
+considered themselves, even under his dominion, as the _servants of
+France_. They appear, at present, at least, to think themselves an
+independent body, who have a right to act according to their own
+judgment, and are accountable to nobody for their actions. In this idea
+of their own importance they were, of course, encouraged by Napoleon,
+who, on his return from Elba, spoke of the injuries done by the Bourbons
+to the _army and people_, and assigned the former the most honourable
+place in his Champ de Mai. And it will appear by no means surprising,
+that they should have acquired these sentiments, when we consider the
+importance which has been attached to their exploits by their
+countrymen, the encouragement to which they have been accustomed, the
+preference to all other classes of men which was shewn them by the late
+government, and the nature of the services in which they have been
+engaged, and for which they have been rewarded; circumstances fitted to
+assimilate them, in reality as well as appearance, rather to an immense
+band of freebooters, having no principle but union among themselves,
+and submission to their chiefs, than to an established and responsible
+standing army.
+
+This observation applies to the feelings and principles of the soldiers
+taken as a body, not to their individual habits; for, excepting in the
+case of the detachment of the imperial guard, quartered at Fontainbleau,
+we never understood that the French soldiers in time of peace, at least
+among their own countrymen, were accused of outrage or rapine.
+
+There is considerable variety in the personal appearance of the French
+soldiers. The infantry are generally little men, much inferior to the
+Russians and Prussians in size and weight; but as they are almost all
+young, they appear equally well fitted for bearing fatigues, and they
+have an activity in their gait and demeanour, which accords well with
+their general character. In travelling through the country, we could
+almost always tell a French soldier from one of the allies at a
+distance, by the spring of his step. They have another excellent
+quality, that of being easily fed. Nothing appeared to excite more
+astonishment or indignation in France, than the quantity of food
+consumed by the allied troops. We found at Paris, that the Russian
+convalescents, occupying the hospitals which had formerly been
+appropriated to French troops, actually eat three times the rations
+which the French had been allowed. Frenchmen of the middling and higher
+ranks appear to have generally very keen appetites, and often surprise
+Englishmen by the magnitude and variety of their meals; but the
+peasantry and lower orders are accustomed to much poorer fare than the
+corresponding classes, at least in the southern part of our island, and
+the ordinary diet of the French soldiers is inferior to that of the
+English. In garrison, they are never allowed animal food, at least when
+in their own country; and the better living to which they are accustomed
+in foreign countries, and on active service, is a stronger
+recommendation of war to these volatile and unreflecting spirits, than
+it might at first be thought.
+
+The French cavalry are almost universally fine men, much superior to the
+infantry in appearance. The horses of the _chasseurs à cheval_, and
+hussars, are small, but active and hardy; and even those of the
+cuirassiers have not the weight or beauty of the English heavy dragoons,
+though we have understood that they bear the fatigues and privations,
+incident to long campaigns, much better.
+
+The imperial guard was composed, like the Russian guard, of picked men,
+who had already served a certain length of time, and the pay being
+higher than of the regiments of the line, and great pains being
+uniformly taken to preserve them as much as possible, from the hardships
+and dangers to which the other troops were exposed, and to reserve them
+for great emergencies, it was at once an honour and a reward to belong
+to them. We saw a review of the elite of the imperial guard on the 8th
+of May 1814, in presence of the King of France; the regiments of
+cavalry, of which a great number passed, were very weak in numbers, but
+the men were uncommonly fine, and the horses strong and active. The
+finest regiment of infantry of the old guard, with some pieces of
+cannon, did not defile before the King, but passed out of the Cour de
+Carousel by a back way, on account, as we understood, of its having
+shewn strong symptoms of disgust on the entrance of the King into Paris.
+That regiment, as well as all the rest of the infantry of the old guard,
+then called the Grenadiers Français, whom we had ever occasion to see,
+was composed of the finest men, not merely in point of strength, but of
+activity and apparent intelligence. The few pieces of artillery of the
+guard that we saw were in very bad condition, and their equipment
+particularly mean; but this branch of the service had not then had time
+to repair the losses it had sustained in the campaign.
+
+The cavalry of the guard appeared to have been the most fashionable
+service under Napoleon. There were cuirassiers, heavy and light
+dragoons, chasseurs, hussars, grenadiers à cheval, and lancers of the
+guard, all of whom had different and splendid uniforms, and presented an
+uncommonly varied and magnificent appearance when reviewed together.
+Their magnificence and variety was evidently intended to gratify the
+taste of the French people for splendid shows, and to attract young men
+of fortune and expensive habits.
+
+The imperial guard had much more of the air and manner, as well as
+dress, of regular soldiers, than any other part of the French army;
+indeed it is impossible to conceive a more martial or imposing figure
+than that of one of the old grenadiers, (commonly called the _vieux
+moustaches_,) in his striking and appropriate costume, armed with his
+musket and sword, the cross of the legion of honour on his breast, his
+rough and weather-beaten countenance bearing the impression of the sun
+of Italy and the snows of Russia, while his keen and restless eye
+shows, more expressively than words, that he is still "ready, aye
+ready, for the field."
+
+We thought we could discern in the countenances of the troops of
+different nations, whom we saw reviewed about this time, the traces of
+the difference of national character. The general expression of the
+Russians, we thought, was that of stern obstinate determination; of the
+Prussians, warm enthusiastic gallantry; of the French, fierce and
+indignant impetuosity. This may have been fancy, but all who have seen
+the troops of these different nations, will allow a very striking
+difference of expression of countenance, as well as of features.
+
+* * *
+
+No measure was omitted by Napoleon to secure, the services, in the army,
+of all who could be of any use in it. The organization of the garde
+d'honneur was intended to include as large a number as possible of the
+young men, whose circumstances had enabled them to avoid the
+conscription. No act of the Imperial Government seemed to have given
+more general offence in France than the formation of this corps, the
+number of which was stated to have amounted at one time to 10,000. They
+were, in the first instance, invited to volunteer, under the assurance
+that they were to be employed as a guard for Maria Louisa, and under no
+circumstances to be sent across the Rhine. A maximum and minimum number
+were fixed for each _arrondissement_, some number between which was to
+be made up by voluntary enrolments; but when any deficiency was
+discovered, as for example in Holland, where the young men were very
+little disposed to voluntary service in the French army, a balloting
+immediately took place, and a number greater than the maximum was
+compelled to come forward. Exemption from this service was impossible;
+immense sums were offered and refused. They were all mounted, armed, and
+clothed at their own expense; those who did not chuse to march, were
+sent off under an escort of gens-d'armes; and all were conducted to the
+fortresses on the Rhine, were they were regularly drilled. Some of them
+were induced to volunteer for extended service, by a promise, that after
+serving one campaign, they should be made officers; and in the course of
+the campaign of 1813, _all_ of them were brought up to join the army;
+and these young men, taken only a few weeks before from their families,
+where many of them had been accustomed to every luxury and indulgence,
+were compelled to go through all the duties and fatigues of common
+hussars. Some regiments of them, which were very early brought into
+action, having misconducted themselves, were immediately disbanded;
+their horses, arms, and uniforms, were taken from them for the use of
+the other troops, and they were dismissed, to find the best of their way
+to their homes. Those who remained were distributed among the different
+corps of cavalry, and suffered very severely in the campaign in France.
+We spoke to some of them at Paris, who said they had bivouacked, at one
+period of the campaign, _on snow_, fourteen nights successively, and
+described to us the action at Rheims, one of the last that was fought,
+where half of their regiment were left on the field. These men
+complained loudly of the treacherous conduct of Napoleon to them and
+their brethren of the same corps; yet they expressed their willingness
+to undergo all their sufferings again, if they could thereby transfer
+the date of the peace to the other side of the Rhine.
+
+The effect of this measure on the middling and higher ranks was not more
+oppressive than that of the conscription on the lower ranks, and even on
+persons in tolerably good circumstances; for we have heard of £.400
+Sterling, being twice paid to rescue an individual, whom a third
+conscription had at length torn from his family. The impression produced
+in France, however, by either of these measures, cannot be judged of
+from a comparison with the feelings so often manifested in this country,
+under circumstances of less aggravated affliction. The same careless,
+unthinking, constitutional cheerfulness, which is so commendable in
+those Frenchmen whose sufferings are all personal, displays itself in a
+darker point of view, when they are called on to sympathise with the
+sufferings of their friends. It is a disposition, allied indeed to
+magnanimity on the one hand, but to selfishness on the other. The
+sufferings of the French on such an occasion as the loss of a near
+relation, may be acute; but they are of very short duration. In Paris,
+mourning is at present hardly ever worn. At the time when we were there,
+although a bloody campaign had only recently been concluded, we did not
+see above five or six persons in mourning, and even these were not
+certainly French. We understood it to be a principle all over France,
+never to wear mourning for a son; but whether this was adopted in
+compliance with the wishes of Napoleon, as was stated by some, or was
+general before his time, as others maintained, we were not sufficiently
+informed.
+
+* * *
+
+It may be a question, whether the real, as well as professed motive of
+the policy of Napoleon, while he directed the affairs of France, was
+some ill-conceived and absurd idea of the superior happiness and
+prosperity which France might enjoy, if placed indisputably at the head
+of the civilized world, and especially if elevated above the rivalship
+of England; but if the good of France was really his end, it is quite
+certain that it engaged very little of his attention, and that he
+occupied himself almost exclusively with regard to the means which he
+held to be necessary to its attainment. The causes of the wars in which
+he engaged were of little importance to him; but the immediate object of
+all of them was the glory and aggrandizement of France; and to this
+object his whole soul was devoted, and all the energies of the state
+were directed.
+
+In a general view, the imperial government may be said to have rested on
+the following foundations.
+
+In the first place, it rested on the principle which was universally
+acted on, of giving active employment, and animating encouragement, to
+all men of talents or enterprise--to all whose friendship might be
+useful, or whose enmity might be dangerous. The conscription carried off
+the flower of the youthful population; parents were encouraged to send
+their children; if they shewed any superior abilities, to the military
+schools, whence they were rapidly promoted in the army. The formation of
+the garde d'honneur effectually prevented all danger from a numerous
+class of men, whose circumstances might have enabled them to exert
+themselves in opposing public measures. In the civil administration of
+the country, it was the system of Napoleon, from the beginning of his
+career, to give employment to all who might be dangerous, if their
+services were not secured. The prefects of towns and _arrondissements_,
+were generally men of intelligence and information regarding the
+characters of the inhabitants; and the persons recommended by them to
+the immense number of situations in the police, in the collection of
+taxes, &c. were always men of activity, enterprise, and ability: Birth,
+education, and moral character, were altogether disregarded, and
+religious principle was rather considered a fault than a recommendation.
+
+The consequence was, that the young, the bold, the active, the
+enterprising, the independent, were either attached to the imperial
+government, or at least prevented from exerting themselves in opposition
+to it; while those whom family cares, or laborious occupations, or
+habits of indolence, or want of energy of mind, rendered unfit for
+resistance to any government, were the only people whose interest it
+was to resist that of Napoleon.
+
+In the next place, while much was done by these means to secure the
+support of the most important part of the nation to the imperial
+government, the most effectual precautions were taken to prevent danger
+to it, from those whom either principle might lead, or injuries might
+provoke to disaffection. The police was everywhere so powerful, and the
+system of espionage so universally extended, that it was almost
+impossible for different individuals to combine against the government.
+Without including the hosts of douaniers, who were under the orders of
+the collectors of taxes, the gens d'armerie, who were at the disposal of
+the police, and had no other duties to perform, amounted to above 10,000
+men, cavalry and infantry, all completely armed and equipped. As soon,
+therefore, as any individual excited suspicion, there was no difficulty
+as to his apprehension. The number of police officers was very great,
+and they were all low born, clever, unprincipled men, perfectly fitted
+for their situations. The extent and accuracy of the information
+possessed by them was almost incredible. Indeed, we regard the system of
+espionage, by which this information was procured, as the most complete
+and damning proof of the general selfishness and immorality of the
+French people, of which we have received any account. It was not merely
+that a number of persons were employed by the police as spies; but that
+no man could put any confidence even in his best friends and nearest
+relations. The very essence of the system was the destruction of all
+confidence between man and man; and its success was such, that no man
+could venture to express any sentiments hostile to the government, even
+in the retirement of his own family circle. That sacred sanctuary was
+every where invaded, not by the strong hand of power, but by the secret
+machinations of bribery and intrigue.
+
+We were particularly informed, with respect to the establishment of the
+police in Amsterdam, where the sentiments of the people being known to
+be averse to French dominion, it was of course made stronger than in
+less suspicious parts of the country. Within a week after the annexation
+of Holland to France, the police was in full force, and the spies every
+where in motion. No servant was allowed to engage himself who had not a
+certificate from the police, implying his being a spy on his master. At
+the _tables d'hôte_, persons were placed to encourage seditious
+conversation, and those who expressed themselves strongly, were soon
+after seized and committed to prison. No person could leave Amsterdam,
+even to go three miles into the country, without a passport from the
+police, which was granted only to whom they pleased. When a party went
+out on such an excursion, they were sure to be met by some of the gens
+d'armerie, who already knew their names and destination, and who fixed
+the time of their return. From the decisions of the police there was no
+appeal; and those who were imprisoned by them, (as so many of the
+inhabitants of Amsterdam were, that it ceased to be any reproach,) had
+no method of bringing on a trial, or even of ascertaining the crimes of
+which they were accused. Frequently individuals were transported from
+one part of the country to another, without any reason being assigned,
+and set down among strangers, to make their bread as they best could,
+under the inspection of the police, who instantly arrested them on their
+attempting to escape. This system was probably more strictly enforced in
+Holland than over the greater part of France, but its most essential
+parts were every where the same, and the information, with respect to
+the private characters and sentiments of individuals, was certainly
+more easily obtained in France than in Holland.
+
+Such, according to the information of the most intelligent and best
+informed persons with whom we had an opportunity of conversing, were the
+principal means by which the power of Napoleon was maintained, and his
+authority enforced. But it must be owned that he did more than
+this,--that during the greater part of his reign, he not only commanded
+the obedience, but obtained the admiration and esteem of the majority of
+his subjects.
+
+In looking for the causes of this, we shall in vain attempt to discover
+them in real benefits conferred on France by Napoleon. It is true, that
+agriculture made some progress during his reign, but this was decidedly
+owing to the transference of the landed property from nobles and
+churchmen, to persons really interested in the cultivation of the soil,
+which had taken place before his time, and not to the empty and
+ostentatious patronage which he bestowed on it; the best proof of which
+is, that the main improvement that has taken place has not been, as
+already observed, in the principles or practice of agriculture, but in
+the quantity of land under tillage. It is true also, that certain
+manufactures have been encouraged by the exclusion of the English
+goods; but this partial increase of wealth was certainly not worth the
+expense of a year's war, and was heavily counterbalanced by the distress
+occasioned by his tyrannical decrees in the commercial towns of France,
+and of the countries which were subjected to her control.
+
+As a single instance of this distress, we may just notice the situation
+of the city of Amsterdam during the time that Holland was incorporated
+with France. Out of 200,000 inhabitants of that city, more than one
+half, during the whole of that time, were absolutely deprived of the
+means of subsistence, and lived merely on the charity of the remainder,
+who were, for the most part, unable to engage in any profitable
+business, all foreign commerce being at an end, and supported themselves
+therefore on the capital which they had previously acquired; and, lest
+that capital should escape, two-thirds of the national debt of Holland
+were struck off by a single decree of Napoleon. The population of the
+town fell off about 20,000 during the time of its connection with
+France; the taxes, while the two countries were incorporated, were
+enormous; the income-tax, which was independent of the droits reunis, or
+assessed taxes, having been stated to us at one-fifth of every man's
+income. It was during the pressure of these burdens that the tremendous
+system of police which we have described was enforced; and to add to the
+miseries of the unfortunate inhabitants of this and the other commercial
+towns of Holland, they were not allowed to manifest their sufferings.
+Every man who possessed or inhabited a house was compelled to keep it in
+perfect repair; so that even at the time of their liberation, these
+towns bore no external mark of poverty or decay. The consequence of that
+decree, however, had been, that persons possessing houses at first
+lowered their rents, then asked no rents at all; happy to get them off
+their hands, and throw on the tenants the burden of paying taxes for
+them and keeping them in repair; and lastly, in many instances, offered
+sums of money to bribe others to live in their houses, or even accept
+the property of them.
+
+The taxes of France, under Napoleon, it would have been supposed, were
+alone sufficient to exasperate the people against them. They were
+oppressive, not merely from their amount, but especially from the
+arbitrary power which was granted to the prefects of towns and
+_arrondissements_, and their agents, in collecting them. A certain sum
+was directed to be levied in each district, and the apportioning of this
+burden on the different inhabitants was left almost entirely to the
+discretion of these officers.
+
+It is quite obvious, therefore, as we already hinted; that the
+popularity of Napoleon in France, during at least the greater part of
+his reign; can be traced to no other source than the national vanity of
+the French. As they are more fond of shew than of comfort in private
+life, so their public affections are more easily won by gaudy
+decorations than by substantial benefits. Napoleon gave them enough of
+the former; they had victories abroad and _spectacles_ at home--their
+capital was embellished--their country was aggrandised--their glory was
+exalted; and if he had continued successful, France would still have
+continued to applaud and admire him, while she had sons to swell her
+armies, and daughters to drudge in her fields.
+
+As it was not Napoleon who made the French a military and ambitious
+people, so it is not his fall alone that can secure the world against
+the effects of their military and ambitious spirit. It is not merely the
+removal of him who has so long guided it, but the extinction of the
+spirit itself that is necessary. The effect of the late events on the
+active part of the population of France, cannot be accurately judged of
+in the present moment of irritation and disorder; but whatever
+government that country may ultimately assume, it may surely be hoped
+that their experience of unsuccessful and calamitous war has been
+sufficient to incline them to peace; that they will learn to measure
+their national glory by a better standard than mere victory or noise;
+that they will reflect on the true objects, both of political and
+military institutions, and acknowledge the happiness of the people they
+govern to be the supreme law of kings, and the blessings of the country
+they serve to be the best reward of soldiers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+JOURNEY TO FLANDERS.
+
+
+When we left Paris, we took the road to Soissons and Laon, with a view
+to see the seat of war during the previous campaign, and examine the
+interesting country of Flanders. After passing the village of La
+Villette, and the heights of Belleville, the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting, and is distinguished by those features which characterise
+almost all the level agricultural districts of France. The road, which
+is of great breadth, and paved in the centre, runs through a continued
+plain, in which, as far as the eye can reach, nothing is to be discerned
+but a vast expanse of corn fields, varied at intervals by fallows, and
+small tracts of lucerne and sainfoin. No inclosures are to be met with;
+few woods are seen to vary the uniformity of the view; and the level
+surface of the ground is only broken at intervals by the long rows of
+fruit-trees, which intersect the country in different directions, or the
+tall avenues of elms between which the _chaussèes_ are placed.
+
+These elm trees would give a magnificent appearance to the roads, both
+from their age and the immense length during which they fringe its
+sides, were it not that they are uniformly clipt to the very top, for
+firewood, by the peasantry, and that all their natural beauty is in
+consequence destroyed. The elm, indeed, pushes out its shoots to replace
+the branches which have been destroyed, and fringes the lofty stem with
+a cluster of foliage; but as soon as these young branches have become
+large, they too are in their turn sacrificed to the same purpose. When
+seen from a distance, accordingly, these trees resemble tall May-poles
+with tufts at their tops, and are hardly to be distinguished from the
+Lombardy poplars, which, in many parts of the country, line the sides of
+the principal roads.
+
+One most remarkable circumstance in the agricultural districts of
+France, is here to be seen in its full extent. The people do not dwell
+in detached cottages, placed in the centre of their farms or their
+properties, as in all parts of England; they live together in aged
+villages or boroughs, often at the distance of two or three miles from
+the place of their labour, and wholly separated from the farms which
+they are employed in cultivating. It is no uncommon thing accordingly,
+to see a farmer leaving a little town in the morning with his ploughs
+and horses, to go to his piece of ground, which lies many miles from the
+place of his residence.
+
+This circumstance, which exists more or less in every part of France, is
+characteristic of the state in which the people were placed in those
+remote periods, when their habits of life were originally formed. It
+indicates that popular degradation and public insecurity, when the poor
+were compelled to unite themselves in villages or towns for protection
+from the banditti, whom the government was unable to restrain, or from
+the more desolating oppression of feudal power. In every country of
+Europe, in which the feudal tyranny long subsisted; in Spain, in France,
+in Poland, and in Hungary, this custom has prevailed to a certain
+extent, and the remains of it are still to be seen in the remoter parts
+of Scotland. It is in countries alone whose freedom has long subsisted;
+in Switzerland, in Flanders, and in England, that no traces of its
+effects are to be discerned in the manners and the condition of the
+peasantry; that the enjoyment of individual security has enabled the
+poor to spread themselves in fearless confidence over the country; and
+that the traveller, in admiring the union of natural beauty with general
+prosperity, which the appearance of the country exhibits, blesses that
+government, by the influence of whose equal laws that delightful union
+has been effected.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Paris, and in those situations which are
+favourable for vineyard or garden cultivation, this circumstance gives a
+very singular aspect to the face of the country. As far as the eye can
+reach, the sloping banks, or rising swells, are cultivated with the
+utmost care, and intersected by little paths, which wind through the
+gardens, or among the vineyards, in the most beautiful manner; yet no
+traces of human habitation are to be discerned, by whose labour, or for
+whose use, this admirable cultivation has been conducted. The labourers,
+or proprietors of these gardens, dwell at the distance of miles, in
+antiquated villages, which resemble the old boroughs which are now
+wearing out in the improved parts of Scotland. In the greater part of
+France, the people dwell in this manner, in crowded villages, while the
+open country, every where cultivated, is but seldom inhabited. The
+superiority, accordingly, in the beauty of those districts, where the
+cottages are sprinkled over the country, and surrounded by fruit-trees,
+is greater than can well be imagined: and it is owing to this
+circumstance that Picardy, Artois, and Normandy, exhibit so much more
+pleasing an appearance, than most of the other provinces of France.
+
+In the district between Paris and Soissons, as in almost every other
+part of the country, the land is now in the hands of the peasantry, who
+became proprietors of it during the struggles of the revolution. We had
+every where occasion to observe the extreme industry with which the
+people conduct their cultivation, and perceived numerous instances of
+the truth of Mr Young's observation, "that there is no such instigator
+to severe and incessant labour, as the minute subdivision of landed
+property." But though their industry was uniformly in the highest degree
+laudable, yet we could not help deploring the ignorant and unskilful
+manner in which this industry is directed. The cultivation is still
+carried on after the miserable rotation which so justly excited the
+indignation of Mr Young previous to the commencement of the revolution.
+Wheat, barley or oats, sainfoin, lucerne or clover, and fallow, form
+the universal rotation. The green crops are uniformly cut, and carried
+into the house for the cattle; as there are no inclosures, there is no
+such thing as pasturage in the fields; and, except once on the banks of
+the Oise, we never saw cattle pasturing in those parts of France. The
+small quantity of lucerne and sainfoin, moreover, shews that there are
+but few herds in this part of France, and that meat, butter, or cheese,
+form but a small part of the food of the peasantry. Normandy, in fact,
+is the only pasture district of France, and the produce of the dairy
+there is principally intended for the markets of Paris.
+
+The soil is apparently excellent the whole way, composed of a loam in
+some places, mixed with clay and sand, and extremely easily worked.
+Miserable fallows are often seen, on which the sheep pick up a wretched
+subsistence--their lean sides and meagre limbs exhibit the effects of
+the scanty food which they are able to obtain. The ploughing to us
+appeared excellent; but we were unable to determine whether this was to
+be imputed to the skilfulness of the labourer, or the light friable
+nature of the soil.
+
+The property of the peasantry is not surrounded by any enclosures, nor
+are there any visible marks whereby their separate boundaries could be
+determined by the eye of a stranger. The plain exhibits one unbroken
+surface of corn or vineyards, and appears as if it all formed a part of
+one boundless property. The vast expanse, however, is in fact subdivided
+into an infinite number of small estates, the proprietors of which dwell
+in the aged boroughs through which the road occasionally passes, and the
+extremities of which are marked by great stones fixed on their ends,
+which are concealed from a passenger by the luxuriant corn in which they
+are enveloped. This description applies to the grain districts in almost
+every part of France.
+
+Although the condition of the peasantry has been greatly ameliorated, in
+consequence of the division of landed property since the revolution, yet
+their increased wealth has not yet had any influence on the state of
+their habitations, or the general comfort of their dwellings. This rises
+from the nature of the contributions to which they were subjected during
+the despotic governments which succeeded the first years of the
+revolution. These contributions were levied by the governors of
+districts in the most arbitrary manner. The arrondissement was assessed
+at a certain sum by the government, or a certain contribution for the
+support of the war was imposed; and the sum was proportioned out among
+the different inhabitants, according to the discretion of the collector.
+Any appearance of comfort, accordingly, among the peasantry, was
+immediately followed by an increased contribution, and heavier taxes;
+and hence the people never ventured to make any display of their
+increased wealth in their dwellings, or in any article of their
+expenditure, which might attract, the notice of the collectors of the
+imperial revenue. The burdens to which they were subjected, moreover,
+especially during the last years of the war, were extremely severe,
+arising both from the enormous sums requisite to save their sons from
+the conscription, and the heavy unequal contributions to which they were
+subjected.
+
+From these causes, the division of landed property has not yet produced
+that striking amelioration in the habits and present comfort of the
+peasantry, which generally attend this important measure; and their
+wealth is rather hoarded up, after the eastern custom, for future,
+emergencies or spent in the support of an early marriage; and never
+lavished in the fearless enjoyment of present opulence.
+
+In some respects, however, their appearance evidently bears the mark of
+the improvement in their situation. Their dress is upon the whole neat
+and comfortable, covered in general by a species of smock frock of a
+light blue colour, and exhibiting none of that miserable appearance
+which Mr Young described as characterising the labouring classes during
+his time. They evidently had the aspect of being well fed, and both in
+their figures and dress, afforded a striking contrast to the wretched
+and decrepid inhabitants of the towns, in whom the real poverty of the
+people, under the old regime, was still perceptible. In some of these
+towns, the appearance of the beggars, their extraordinary figures, and
+tattered dress, exhibited a spectacle which would have been
+inconceivably ludicrous, were it not for the melancholy ideas of abject
+poverty which it necessarily conveyed.
+
+About twenty miles from Soissons, the road passes through the
+magnificent forest of Villars Coterets, which, in the luxuriance and
+extent of its woods, rivals the forest of Fontainbleau. The place on
+which it stands is varied by rising grounds, and the distance exhibits
+beautiful vistas of forest scenery and gentle swells, adorned by rich
+and varied foliage. It wants, however, those grand and striking
+features, that mixture of rock and wood, of forest gloom and savage
+scenery, which give so unrivalled a charm to the forest of
+Fontainbleau.
+
+From Villars Coterets, the road lies over a high plateau, covered with
+grain, and exhibiting more than ordinary barrenness and desolation.
+After passing over this dreary track, you arrive at the edge of a steep
+declivity, which shelves down to the valley in which the Aisne wanders.
+The appearance of this valley is extremely beautiful. It is sheltered by
+high ridges, or sloping hills, covered with vineyards, orchards, and
+luxuriant woods: the little plain is studded with villas and neat
+cottages, embosomed in trees, or surrounded by green meadows, in which
+the winding course of the Aisne can at intervals be discerned. When we
+reached this spot, the sun had newly risen; his level rays illuminated
+the white cottages with which the valley is sprinkled, or glittered on
+the stream which winded through its plain; while the Gothic towers of
+Soissons threw a long shadow over the green fields which surrounded its
+walls. It reminded us of those lines in Thomson, in which the effect of
+the morning light is so beautifully described:
+
+      "Lo, now apparent all,
+    Aslant the dew-bright earth and coloured air,
+    He looks in boundless majesty abroad,
+    And sheds the shining day, that burnished plays
+    On rocks, and hills, and towers, and wandering streams,
+    High gleaming from afar."
+
+The descent to Soissons is through a declivity adorned by thriving
+gardens and neat cottages, detached from each other, which afforded a
+pleasing contrast to the solitary, uninhabited, though cultivated plains
+through which our route had previously lain. The Fauxbourgs of the town
+were wholly in ruins, having been totally destroyed in the three
+assaults which they had sustained during the previous campaign. The town
+itself is small, surrounded by decayed fortifications, and containing
+nothing of note, except the Gothic spires, which bear testimony to its
+antiquity.
+
+On leaving Soissons on the road to Laon, you go for two miles through
+the level plain in which the town is situated; after which you begin to
+ascend the steep ridge by which its eastern boundary is formed. It was
+on the summit of this ridge that Marshal Blucher's army was drawn up,
+80,000 strong, at the time when a detachment of his troops, under Count
+Langeron, was defending Soissons against the French army. Immediately
+below this position, there is placed a small village, which bore the
+marks of desperate fighting; all the houses were unroofed or shattered
+in every part by musket balls; and many seemed to have been burnt during
+the struggles of which it was formerly the theatre. There is an old
+castle a little higher up the ascent, which was garrisoned by the allied
+troops; in the neighbourhood of which, we perceived numerous traces of
+the immense bivouacs which had been made round its walls; particularly
+the bodies of horses and oxen, which the Russians had left on the
+ground, and which the peasants had taken no pains to remove.
+
+From thence the road runs over a high level plateau, covered with
+miserable corn, or worse fallows, and having an aspect of sterility very
+different from what we were accustomed to in the rich provinces of
+France. In the midst of this dreary country, we beheld with delight
+several deep ravines, formed by streams which fall into the Aisne,
+sheltered from the chilling blasts that sweep along the high plains by
+which they are surrounded, the steep sides of which were clothed with
+luxuriant woods, and in the bottom of which are placed many little farms
+and cottages, which exhibited a perfect picture of rural beauty. Even
+here, however, the terrible effects of war were clearly visible; these
+sequestered spots had been ravaged by the hostile armies; and the ruined
+walls of the peasants dwellings presented a melancholy spectacle in the
+midst of the profusion of beauty with which they were surrounded.
+
+Half way between Soissons and Laon, is placed a solitary inn, at which
+Bonaparte stopt six hours, after the disastrous termination of the
+battle of Laon. The people informed us, that during this time, he was in
+a state of great agitation, wrote many different orders, which he
+destroyed as fast as they were done, and covered the floor with the
+fragments of his writing. Many Cossacks and Bashkirs had been quartered
+in this inn; the people, as usual, would not allow them any good
+qualities, but often repeated, with evident chagrin--"Ils mangent comme
+des diables; ils ont mangé tous les poulets."
+
+The features of the country continue with little variety, till you begin
+to descend from the high plateau, over which the road has passed into
+the wooded valley, in the centre of which the hill and town of Laon are
+placed. The dreary aspect of this plateau, which, though cultivated in
+every part, exhibited few traces of human habitation, was enlivened
+occasionally by herds of pigs, of a lean and meagre breed, (followed by
+shepherds of the most grotesque appearance,) wandering over the bare
+fallows, and seemingly reduced to the necessity of feeding on their
+mother earth.
+
+At the distance of six miles from Laon, the descent begins to the plain
+below, down the side of a deep ravine, beautifully clothed with woods
+and vineyards. On the other side of this ravine lies the plateau on
+which the battle of Craon was fought, whose level desolate surface
+seemed a fit theatre for the struggle that was there maintained. At the
+bottom of the ravine the road passes a long line of villages, surrounded
+with wood and gardens, which had been wholly ruined by the operations of
+the armies; and among the neighbouring woods we were shewn numerous
+graves both of French and Russian soldiers.
+
+The approach to Laon lies through a great morass, covered in different
+places with low brushwood, and intersected only by the narrow chaussèe
+on which the road is laid. The appearance of the town is very striking;
+standing on a hill in the centre of a plain of 10 or 12 miles in
+diameter, bounded on all sides by steep and wooded ridges. It is
+surrounded by an old wall, and some decayed towers, and is adorned by
+some fine Gothic spires, whose apparent magnitude is much increased by
+the elevated station on which they are placed.
+
+In crossing this chaussèe, we were immediately struck with the
+extraordinary policy of Bonaparte, in attacking the Russian army posted
+on the heights of Laon, where his only retreat was by the narrow road
+we were traversing, which for several miles, ran through a morass,
+impassible for carriages or artillery. This appeared the more wonderful,
+as the army he was attacking was more numerous than his own, composed of
+admirable troops, and posted in a position where little hopes of success
+could be entertained. It was an error of the same kind as he committed
+at Leipsic, when he gave battle to the allied armies with a single
+bridge and a long defile in his rear. It is laid down as one of the
+first maxims of war, by Frederic the Great, "never to fight an enemy
+with a bridge or defile in your rear: as if you are defeated, the ruin
+of the army must ensue in the confusion which the narrowness of the
+retreat creates." We cannot suppose so great a general as Bonaparte to
+have been ignorant of so established a principle, or a rule which common
+sense appears so obviously to dictate; it is more probable, that in the
+confidence which the long habit of success had occasioned, he never
+contemplated the possibility of a defeat, nor took any measures whatever
+for ensuring the safety of his army in the event of a retreat. Be this
+as it may, it is certain that he fought at Laon with a morass, crossed
+by a single chaussèe, in his rear, and that if he had been totally
+defeated, instead of being repulsed in the action which then took
+place, his army must have been irretrievably ruined, in the narrow line
+over which their retreat was of necessity conducted.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Laon is placed a small village named Semilly,
+in which a desperate conflict had evidently been maintained. The trees
+were riddled with the cannon-shot; the walls were pierced for the fire
+of infantry, and the houses all in ruins, from the showers of balls to
+which they had been exposed. The steep declivity of the hill itself was
+covered with gardens and vineyards, in which the allied army had been
+posted during the continuance of the conflict; but though three months
+had not elapsed since the period when they were filled with hostile
+troops, no traces of desolation were to be seen, nor any thing which
+could indicate the occurrence of any extraordinary events. The vines
+grew in the utmost luxuriance on the spot where columns of infantry had
+so recently stood, and the garden cultivation appeared in all its
+neatness, on the very ground which had been lately traversed by all the
+apparatus of modern warfare. It would have been impossible for any one
+to have conceived, that the destruction they occasioned could so soon
+have been repaired; or that the powers of Nature, in that genial
+climate, could so rapidly have effaced all traces of the desolation
+which marked the track of human ambition.
+
+The town of Laon itself contains little worthy of note; but the view
+from its ramparts, though not extensive, was one of the most pleasing
+which we had seen in France. The little plain with which the town is
+surrounded, is varied with woods, corn fields, and vineyards; the view
+is closed on every side by a ridge of hills, which form a circular
+boundary round its farthest extremity, while the foreground is finely
+marked by the decaying towers of the fortress, or the dark foliage which
+shades its ramparts.
+
+We walked over the field of battle with a degree of interest, which
+nothing but the memorable operations of which it had formerly been the
+theatre, could possibly have excited. The accounts of the action, which
+we received from the inhabitants of the town, and peasantry in its
+vicinity, agreed perfectly with the official details which we had
+previously read; and although we could not give an opinion with
+confidence on a military question, it certainly appeared to us, that the
+operations of the French army had been ill combined. Indeed, some
+French officers with whom we conversed on the next day, allowed that the
+battle had been ill fought, but, as usual, laid all the blame upon
+Marmont. The main body of the French army, advancing by the road from
+Soissons, attacked the villages of Ardon and Semilly in front of the
+town, on the centre of Marshal Blucher's position, and his right wing,
+which was posted in the intersected ground to the west of the town, on
+the morning of the 9th of March. These parts of the position were
+occupied chiefly by the corps of Woronzoff and Buloff, and as they were
+very strong, no impression was made on them, and the troops who defended
+them maintained themselves, without support from the reserves, during
+the whole day. Late in the evening, the corps of Marmont, with a body of
+cavalry under Arrighi, appeared on the road from Rheims, advancing
+apparently without any communication or concert with the troops under
+Napoleon in person, (who were drawn up, for the most part, in heavy
+columns, in the immediate vicinity of the Soissons road), and made a
+furious attack on the extreme left of Marshal Blucher's position. The
+Marshal being satisfied by this time, that the troops in position about
+the town were adequate to the defence of it against Napoleon's force,
+was enabled to detach the whole corps of York, Kleist, and Sacken, with
+the greater part of his cavalry, to oppose Marmont, who was instantly
+overthrown, cut off from all communication with Napoleon, and driven
+across the Aisne, with the loss of four or five thousand prisoners, and
+forty pieces of cannon. The only assistance which Napoleon could give
+him in his retreat, was by renewing the attack on Ardon and Semilly,
+which he did next morning, and maintained the action during the whole of
+the 10th, with no other effect, than preventing the pursuit of Marmont
+from being followed up by the vigour which might otherwise have been
+displayed by the Silesian army, notwithstanding the fatigues which they
+had undergone at that time, during six weeks of continued marching and
+fighting.
+
+The village of Athies, where the contest with Marmont's corps was
+decided, containing about 200 houses, had been completely burnt in the
+time of the action; and, when we were there, little progress had been
+made in rebuilding it, but the inhabitants, then living in temporary
+sheds, displayed their usual cheerfulness and equanimity; they were very
+loud in reprobation of the military conduct of Marmont, and very anxious
+to convince us, that the French had been overwhelmed only by great
+superiority of numbers, and that the allies might have completely cut
+off the retreat of Marmont towards Rheims, if they had known how to
+profit by their success.
+
+June 8th, we left Laon at sunrise, and took the road to St Quentin. For
+a few miles the road passes through the plain in which the town is
+placed, after which it enters a pass, formed between the sloping hills,
+by which its boundary is marked. These hills are, for the most part,
+soft and green, like those on the banks of the Yarrow in Scotland, but
+varied, in some places, by woods and orchards; and their lower
+declivities are every where covered by vineyards and garden cultivation.
+Near their foot is placed the village of Cressy, which struck us as the
+most comfortable we had seen in France. The houses are all neat and
+substantial, covered with excellent slated roofs, and lighted by large
+windows, each surrounded by a little garden, and exhibiting a degree of
+comfort rarely to be met with among the dwellings of the French
+peasantry. On inquiry, we found that these peasants had long been
+proprietors of their houses, with the gardens attached, and had each a
+vineyard on the adjoining heights. The effects of long established
+property were here very apparent in the habits of comfort and industry,
+which, in process of time, it had ingrafted upon the dispositions and
+wishes of the people.
+
+After passing the ridge of little hills, through banks clothed with
+hanging woods, the road descends into a little circular valley,
+surrounded on all sides by rising grounds, which presented a scene of
+the most perfect rural beauty. The upper part of the hills were covered
+with luxuriant woods, whose flowing outline suited the expression of
+softness and repose by which the scene was distinguished; on the
+declivities below the wood, the vineyards, gardens, and fruit-trees,
+covered the sunny banks which descended into the plain, while the lower
+part of the valley was filled with a village, embosomed in fruit-trees,
+ornamented only by a simple spire. It is impossible for language to
+convey an adequate idea of the beauty of this exquisite scene; it united
+the interest of romantic scenery with the charm of cultivated nature,
+and seemed placed in this sequestered valley, to combine all that was
+delightful in rural life. When we first beheld it, the sun was newly
+risen; his increasing rays threw a soft light over the wooded hills, and
+illuminated the summit of the village spire; the grass and the vines
+were still glittering in the morning dew, and the songs of the peasants
+were heard on all sides, cheering the beginning of their early labour.
+The marks of cultivation harmonized with the expression by which the
+scene was characterised; they were emblematic only of human happiness,
+and had a tendency to induce the momentary belief, that in this
+sequestered spot the human species shared in the fulness of universal
+joy.
+
+As we descended into the valley, we perceived a great chateau near the
+western extremity of the village of Foudrain, which appeared still to be
+inhabited, and had none of the appearance of decay by which all that we
+had hitherto seen were distinguished. It belongs to the Chevalier
+Brancas, who is proprietor of this and seven or eight of the adjoining
+villages, and whose estates extend over a great part of the surrounding
+country. On enquiry, we found that this great proprietor had, long
+before the revolution, pursued a most enlightened and indulgent conduct
+towards his peasantry, giving them leases of their houses and gardens of
+20 or 30 years, and never removing any even at the expiration of that
+period, if their conduct had been industrious during its continuance.
+The good effects of this liberal policy have appeared in the most
+striking manner, not only in the increased industry and enlarged wealth
+of the tenants; but in the moderate, loyal conduct which they pursued,
+during the eventful period of the revolution. The farmers on this estate
+are some of the richest in France; many being possessed of a capital of
+15,000 or 16,000 francs, (from £. 750 to £. 800 Sterling,) a very large
+sum in that country, and amply sufficient for the management of the
+farms which they possessed. Their houses are neat and comfortable in the
+most remarkable degree, and the farm-steadings as extensive and
+substantial as in the most improved districts of England. The ground is
+cultivated with the utmost care, and the industry of the peasants is
+conspicuous in every part of agricultural management. It was impossible,
+in comparing these prosperous dwellings with the decayed villages in
+most other parts of the country, not to discern, in the clearest manner,
+the salutary influence of individual security upon the labouring
+classes; and the tendency which the certainty of enjoying the fruits of
+their labour has, not merely in increasing their present industry, but
+awakening those wishes of improvement, and engendering those habits of
+comfort; which are the only true foundation of public happiness.
+
+During the revolution, when the peasants of all the adjoining estates
+violently dispossessed their landlords of their property; when every
+adjoining chateau exhibited a scene of desolation and ruin; the peasants
+of this estate were remarkable for their moderate and steady conduct; so
+far from themselves pillaging their seigneur, they formed a league for
+his defence "--Ils l'ont soutenùs," as they themselves expressed
+it--_and he continued throughout, and is now in the quiet possession of
+his great estate_. It is not perhaps going too far to say, that had the
+peasants throughout the country been treated with the same indulgence,
+and suffered to enjoy the same property, as in this delightful district,
+France would have been spared from all the horrors and all the
+sufferings of her revolution.
+
+From Foudrain to La Fere, the country is, for the most part, flat; and
+the road, which is shaded by lofty trees, skirts the edge of a great
+forest, which stretches as far as the eye can reach to the left; and
+joins with the forest of Villars Coterets. For many miles the road is
+bordered by fruit-trees, and the cottages have a most comfortable
+thriving appearance. To St Quentin the face of the country is flat,
+though the ridge over which you pass is high; the villages have an
+appearance of progress and opulence about them, which is rarely to be
+met with in other parts of France. All the peasantry carry on
+manufactures in their own houses; and probably their gains are very
+considerable, as their houses are much more neat and comfortable than in
+districts which are solely agricultural, and their dress bears the
+appearance of considerable wealth. The cultivation in the open country
+still continues, in general, to be wheat, barley, clover, and fallow;
+but the approach to French Flanders is very obvious, both from the
+increased quantity of rye under cultivation, from the occasional fields
+of beans which are to be met with, and from the numbers of potatoes and
+other vegetables which are to be discerned round the immediate vicinity
+of the villages. In these villages the houses are white-washed,
+surrounded by gardens, and have a smiling aspect.
+
+La Fere is a small town, surrounded with trifling fortifications,
+containing a considerable arsenal of artillery. We were much amused,
+while there, with the spectacle which the market exhibited. A great
+concourse of people had been collected from all quarters, to purchase a
+number of artillery horses which the government had exposed at a low
+price, to indemnify the people for the losses they had sustained during
+the continuance of the war. The crowds of grotesque figures which
+thronged the streets, the picturesque appearance of the horses that were
+exposed to sale, and the fierce martial aspect of the grenadiers of the
+old guard, a detachment of whom were quartered in the town, rendered
+this scene truly characteristic of the French people.
+
+St Quentin is a neat, clean, and thriving town, resembling, both in the
+forms of the houses, and the opulence of the middling classes, the
+better sort of the country towns in England. It is the seat of
+considerable manufactures, which throve amazingly under the imperial
+government, in consequence of the exclusion of the English commodities
+during the revolutionary wars. The linen manufacture is the staple
+branch of industry, and affords employment to the peasantry in their own
+houses, in every direction in the surrounding country, which is probably
+the cause of the thriving prosperous appearance by which they are
+distinguished. The great church of St Quentin, though not built in fine
+proportions, is striking, from the coloured glass of its windows, and
+its great dimensions.
+
+The French cultivation continues without any other change than the
+increased quantity of rye in the fields, and vegetables round the
+cottages, to the frontier of French Flanders. Still the country exhibits
+one unbroken sheet of corn and fallow; no inclosures are to be seen, and
+little wood varies the uniformity of the prospect. In crossing a high
+ridge which separates St Quentin from Cambray, the road passes over the
+great canal from Antwerp to Paris, which is here carried for many miles
+through a tunnel under ground. This great work was commenced under the
+administration of M. Turgot, but it was not completed till the time of
+Bonaparte, who employed in it great numbers of the prisoners whom he had
+taken in Spain. The magnitude of the undertaking may be judged of from
+the immense depth of the hollow which was cut for it, previous to the
+commencement of the tunnel, which is so great, that the canal, when seen
+from the top, has the appearance of a little stream. The course of the
+tunnel is marked on the surface of the ground by a line of chalky soil,
+which is spread above its centre, and which can be seen as far as the
+eye can reach, stretching over the vast ridge by which the country is
+traversed.
+
+At the distance of three miles from the town of Cambray, the road
+crosses the ancient frontiers of French Flanders. We had long been
+looking for this transition, to discover if it still exhibited the
+striking change described by Arthur Young, "between the effects of the
+despotism of old France, which depressed agriculture, and the free
+spirit of the Burgundian provinces, which cherished and protected it."
+No sooner had we crossed the old line of demarcation between the French
+and Flemish provinces, than we were immediately struck with the
+difference, both in the aspect of the country, the mode of cultivation,
+and the condition of the people. The features of the landscape assume a
+totally different aspect; the straight roads, the clipt elms, the
+boundless plains of France are no longer to be seen; and in their place
+succeeds a thickly wooded soil and cultivated country. The number of
+villages is infinitely increased; the village spires rise above the
+woods in every direction, to mark the antiquity and the extent of the
+population: the houses of the peasants are detached from each other, and
+surrounded with fruit trees, or gardens kept in the neatest order, and
+all the features of the landscape indicate the long established
+prosperity by which the country has been distinguished.
+
+Nor is the difference less striking in the mode of cultivation which is
+purified. Fallows, so common in France, almost universally disappear;
+and in their place, numerous crops of beans, pease, potatoes, carrots
+and endive, are to be met with. In the cultivation of these crops manual
+labour is universally employed; and the mode of cultivation is precisely
+that which is carried on in garden husbandry. The crops are uniformly
+laid out in small patches of an acre or thereby to each species of
+vegetable; which, combined with the extreme minuteness of the
+cultivation, gives the country under tillage the appearance of a great
+kitchen garden. This singular practice, which is universal in Flanders,
+is probably owing to the great use of the manual labour in the
+operations of agriculture. Rye is very much cultivated, and forms the
+staple food of the peasantry. The crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, and
+clover, struck us as exceedingly heavy, but not nearly so clean as those
+of a similar description in the best agricultural districts of our own
+country.
+
+But it is principally in the condition, manners, and comfort of the
+people, that the difference between the French and Flemish provinces
+consists. Every thing connected with the lower orders, indicates the
+influence of long-established prosperity, and the prevalence of habits
+produced by the uninterrupted enjoyment of individual opulence. The
+population of Flanders, both French and Austrian, is perfectly
+astonishing; the villages form an almost uninterrupted line through the
+country; the small towns are as numerous as villages in other parts of
+the world, and seem to contain an extensive and comfortable population.
+These small towns are particularly remarkable for the number and
+opulence of the middling classes, resembling in this, as well as other
+respects, the flourishing boroughs of Yorkshire and Kent, and affording
+a most striking contrast to those of a very opposite description, which
+we had recently passed through in France.
+
+The cottages of the peasantry, both in the villages and the open
+country, are in the highest degree, neat, clean, and comfortable; built
+for the most part of brick, and slated in the roof; nowhere exhibiting
+the slightest symptoms of dilapidation. These houses have almost all a
+garden attached to them, in the cultivation of which, the poor people
+display, not only extreme industry, but a degree of taste superior to
+what might be expected from their condition in life: The inside bore the
+marks of great comfort, both from the cleanness which every where
+prevailed, and the costly nature of the furniture with which they were
+filled. Nothing could be more pleasing than the appearance of the
+windows, every where in the best repair, large and capacious, and
+furnished with shutters on the outside, painted green, which, together
+with the bright whiteness of the walls, gave the whole the appearance of
+buildings destined for ornamental purposes, rather than the abode of the
+lower orders of the people.
+
+Cambray is a neat comfortable town, containing 15,000 inhabitants, and
+surrounded by fortifications in tolerable repair, but which, when we
+passed them, were not armed. It was once celebrated for its magnificent
+cathedral, reckoned the finest in France; but a few ruins of this great
+building alone have escaped the fury of the people, during the
+commencement of the revolution. These trifling remains, however, were
+sufficient to convey some idea of the beautiful proportions in which the
+whole had been constructed; they resembled much the finest part of
+Dryburgh Abbey, in Scotland. The modern cathedral, built near the site
+of the old one, has a mean exterior, but possesses considerable
+splendour in the inside.
+
+From Cambray to Valenciennes, the features of the country continue the
+same as those we have just described. The surface of the ground is still
+flat, and cultivated in every part with the utmost care, in the garden
+style of husbandry. We were particularly struck, in this district, by
+the quantity of drilled crops, the admirable order in which they are
+kept, and the vast numbers of people, both men, women, and children, who
+appeared engaged in their cultivation. Nothing, indeed, but the great
+demand for labour, occasioned by the use of manual labour in husbandry,
+could have produced, or could support, the great population by which
+Flanders has always been distinguished.
+
+Valenciennes, situated in one of the finest districts of Flanders, is
+likewise a well built, comfortable town, built entirely of brick, and
+surrounded by magnificent fortifications, in admirable repair. As this
+was the first well fortified town which we had seen, it was to us a
+matter of no ordinary interest, which was encreased by the remembrance
+of the celebrated siege which it had undergone from the English army at
+the commencement of the revolutionary war. We were shewn the point at
+which the English forced their entrance; and the numberless marks of
+cannon-balls which their artillery had occasioned during the siege were
+still uneffaced. Though the modern fortifications, built after the model
+of Vauban, have not the romantic or picturesque aspect which belongs to
+the aged towers of Montreuil, Abbeville, or Laon, or the more ruinous
+walls of the town of Conway in Wales, yet they present a pleasing
+spectacle, arising partly from the regularity of the forms themselves,
+and partly from the association with which they are connected.
+
+From Valenciennes to Mons, the country is still flat, though the
+cultivation and the aspect of the scene is somewhat varied from what had
+been exhibited by the districts of French Flanders, through which we had
+previously passed. It lies lower, and appears more subject to
+inundation: Ditches appear at intervals, filled with water, and
+extensive meadows are to be seen, covered with rank and luxuriant grass.
+The cultivation of grain and green crops is less frequent, and in their
+stead, vast tracks of rich pasture cover the face of the country. Much
+wood is to be seen on all sides, often of great dimensions; and the
+population appears still as great as before. The villages succeed one
+another so fast, as almost to form a continued street; and the
+numberless spires which rise over the woods in every direction, prove
+that this number of inhabitants extends over the whole country. The
+cottages still continue neat and comfortable; not picturesque to a
+painter's eye, but exhibiting the more delightful appearance of
+individual prosperity. Their beauty is much increased by the quantity
+of wood, or the variety of fruit-trees, with which the villages are
+interspersed. There are many coal-pits in this country, and a great deal
+of carriage of this valuable mineral on the principal roads. They
+present a scene of infinitely more bustle and activity than the richest
+parts of France. We met a great number of waggons, harnessed and
+equipped like those in England; and the numbers of carriages reminded
+us, in some degree, of the extraordinary appearance, in this respect,
+which the approach to our own capital presents; a state of things widely
+different from the desolate _chaussèes_ which the interior of France
+exhibits. Every thing in the small towns and villages bore the marks of
+activity, industry, and increasing prosperity. We passed with much
+interest over the celebrated field of battle of Jemappe, where the
+remains of Austrian redoubts are still visible.
+
+Mons, the frontier town of Austrian Flanders, was once a place of great
+strength, and underwent a dreadful siege during the wars of the Duke of
+Marlborough; but its ramparts are now dismantled, according to the
+ruinous policy of Joseph II. The square in the town is large, and has a
+striking appearance, owing to the picturesque and varied forms of the
+houses and public buildings of which it is formed. From the summit of
+the great steeple, to which you are conducted by a stair of 353 steps,
+there is a magnificent view over the adjacent country to a great
+distance. It is for the most part green, owing to the immense quantity
+of land under pasturage, and clothed in every direction with extensive
+woods. At a considerable distance we were shewn the woods and heights of
+_Malplaquet_, the scene of one of the Duke of Marlborough's great
+victories, of which the people still spoke, as if it had been one of the
+recent occurrences of the war. This town, when we visited it, was
+completely filled with Prussian and Saxon troops, whose intrepid martial
+appearance bespoke that undaunted character by which they have been
+distinguished in the memorable actions of which this country has since
+been the theatre.
+
+On leaving Mons, on the road to Brussels, you quit the low swampy plain
+in which the town is situated, and ascend a gentle hill, clothed with
+wood, in the openings of which many beautiful views of the spires of the
+city are to be seen. The hill itself is composed entirely of sand, and
+would be reckoned a rising ground in most other countries, but it forms
+a pleasing variety to the level plains of Flanders. From thence to
+Brussels, a distance of 35 miles, the scenery is beautiful in the
+greatest degree. Unlike the flat surface which prevails over most parts
+of this country, it is charmingly varied by hills and vallies, adorned
+by beautiful woods, whose disposition resembles rather that of trees in
+a gentleman's park, than what usually occurs in an agricultural country.
+The cottages, over the whole of this district, are particularly
+pleasing; every where white-washed, clean and comfortable; half hid by a
+profusion of fruit-trees, or the aged stems of elm and ash.
+
+Brain-le-Compte, Halle, and a number of smaller towns through which the
+road passes, are distinguished by the neatness of the houses, and the
+number and opulence of the middling classes of society. The vallies are
+admirably cultivated in agricultural or garden husbandry, and
+interspersed with numerous cottages; the gentle slopes are laid out in
+grass or pasture, and the uplands clothed with luxuriant woods. Upon the
+whole, the scenery between Mons and Brussels was the most delightful we
+had ever seen of a similar description, both from the richness and
+extent of the cultivation; the appearance of public and private
+property, which was unceasingly exhibited; the beautiful variety of the
+ground, and the charming disposition of the woods which terminate the
+view. The village spires, whose summits rise above the distant woods in
+every direction, increased the effect which the objects of nature were
+fitted to produce, both from the beauty of their forms themselves, and
+the pleasing reflections which they awaken in the mind.
+
+We passed through this beautiful country in a fine summer evening in the
+middle of June. The heat of the day had passed: The shades of evening
+were beginning to spread over the lowland country; the forest of
+Soignies was still illuminated by the glow of the setting sun, while his
+level rays shed a peaceful light over the woods which skirt the field of
+WATERLOO. We little thought that the scene, which was now expressive
+only of rest and happiness, should hereafter be the theatre of mortal
+combat: that the same sun which seemed now to set amid the blessings of
+a grateful world, should so soon illuminate a field of agony and death;
+and that the ground which we now trod with no other feelings than
+admiration for the beauty of nature, was destined to become the field of
+deathless glory to the British name.
+
+The state of agriculture from Cambray to Brussels, both in French and
+Austrian Flanders, is admirable. No fallows are any where to be seen,
+and in their place, green crops, of which beans, peas, carrots, &c. form
+the principal part. These green crops are kept very clean, and all
+worked by the spade or hoe, which furnishes employment to the immense
+population which is diffused over the country. Crops of rye, which, when
+we passed them in the middle of June, were in full ear, are every where
+very common; indeed, rye bread seems to be the staple food of the
+peasantry. Much wheat, barley, and oats, are also cultivated, with a
+great deal of sainfoin and clover, which is never pastured, but cut, and
+carried green into the stalls of the cattle. No inclosures are to be
+seen, except round the orchards and gardens which surround the villages;
+and, indeed, fences would be a useless waste of ground in a country
+where every corner is valuable, and no cattle are ever to be seen in the
+open fields. The soil seemed to be excellent throughout the whole
+country; sometimes sandy, and sometimes, a rich loam; and the crop, both
+of corn, beans, and grass, heavy and luxuriant. With the exception,
+however, of the grain crops, which are generally drilled, the fields are
+not nearly so clean as in the best parts of England.
+
+The farm steadings and implements of husbandry in all parts of Flanders,
+are greatly superior to those in France. The waggons are not only more
+numerous on the roads, but greatly neater in their construction than in
+France; the ploughs are of a better construction, and the farm offices
+both more extensive, and in better repair. Every thing, in short,
+indicated a much more improved and opulent class of agriculturists, and
+a country in which the fundamental expenses of cultivation had long been
+incurred.
+
+Near Cambray, the wages of labour are one franc a-day. Near
+Valenciennes, and from that to Mons, they are from 1 franc to 25 sous,
+that is, from 10d. to 12-1/2d. From Mons to Brussels, and round that
+town, from 1 franc to 30 sous, that is, from 10d. to 15d. The rent of
+land was stated in French Flanders at 20 francs, and the price 1000
+francs _per marcoti_; and from Valenciennes to Mons, from 35 to 50
+francs; but we could never accurately ascertain what proportion a
+marcoti bore to the English acre.
+
+The size of the farms is exceedingly various in the districts of
+Flanders which we have visited. From Cambray to Valenciennes, they were
+called from 200 to 300 _marcotis_; but from Mons to Brussels, an
+exceedingly well-cultivated district, they seldom exceed from 50 to 100
+_marcotis_; which, as far as we could judge, was not above from 25 to 50
+acres. That the size of the farms is in general exceedingly small,
+appears obviously from the immense number of farm-houses which are every
+where to be seen. The course and mode of cultivation appears to be
+precisely the same on the great and the small farms.
+
+The state of the people, both in French and Austrian Flanders, was most
+exceedingly comfortable. Not the smallest traces of dirt are to be seen,
+either in the exterior or the interior of the peasants dwellings. Their
+dress, as in France, is in general neat and substantial, covered with a
+light blue smock-frock, and without any appearance of abject want. The
+women in general appeared handsome, and very well clad. Every thing, in
+short, bespoke a rich, prosperous, and happy population.
+
+BRUSSELS is a large, populous, and in many respects a handsome town. It
+stands upon the side of a hill, the lower part being the old town, and
+the higher the fashionable quarter. Near the centre of the old town is
+placed a square of considerable size, surrounded by high antiquated
+buildings of a most remarkable construction; and the _Hotel de Ville_,
+which occupies nearly one of its sides, is ornamented by a high Gothic
+spire of the lightest form, and the most exquisite proportions. The
+Cathedral is large, and has two massy towers in front; but the effect of
+the interior, which would otherwise be very grand, from its immense
+size, is much injured by statues affixed to the pillars, and an
+intermixture of red and white colours, with which the walls are painted.
+In this Cathedral, as well as in the churches throughout Flanders which
+we visited, we were much struck by the numbers of people who attended
+service, and the earnestness with which they seemed to participate in
+religious duty;--a spectacle which was the more impressive, from the
+levity or negligence with which we had been accustomed to see similar
+services attended in France.
+
+The _Parc_, which is an immense square of splendid buildings, inclosing
+a great space, covered with fine timber, is probably the most
+magnificent square in Europe. The Royal Palace, and all the houses of
+the nobility, are here situated. There is nothing of the kind, either in
+Paris or London, which can be compared with this square, either in
+extent, the beauty of the private houses, or the richness and variety of
+the woods.
+
+At Brussels, we saw 1500 British troops on parade in the great square.
+We were particularly struck with the number and brilliant appearance of
+the officers. It would be going too far to say, that they understood
+their duty better than those of the allied armies; but they
+unquestionably have infinitely more of the appearance and manners of
+gentlemen. The proportion of officers to privates appeared much greater
+than in the other European armies; but the common soldiers had not
+nearly so sun-burnt; weather-beaten an appearance. Among the British
+troops, the Highlanders resembled most nearly the swarthy aspect of the
+foreign soldiers. The discipline of these troops was admirable; they
+were much beloved by the inhabitants, who recounted with delight
+numerous instances of their humanity and moderation. In this respect
+they formed a striking contrast to the Prussians, whose abuses and
+voracity were uniformly spoken of in terms of severe reprobation.
+
+The ramparts at Brussels, especially in the upper parts of the town, are
+planted with trees, and afford a delightful walk, commanding an
+extensive view over the adjacent country. The favourite promenade at
+Brussels, however, is the Allee Verte, situated two miles from the town,
+on the road to Antwerp, which forms a drive of two miles in length,
+under the shade of lofty trees. It was filled, when we saw it, with
+numerous parties of officers of all nations, principally German and
+British; and we could not help observing, how much more brilliant the
+appearance of our own countrymen was, than that of their brethren in any
+other service. Indeed they are taken from a different class of society:
+in the continental states, men, from inferior situations, enter the army
+with a view to obtain a subsistence; in the British service alone, men
+of rank and fortune leave the enjoyment and opulence of peaceful life,
+to share in the toils and the hardships of war.
+
+The Chateau of Lacken, now the royal dwelling, stands on an eminence in
+the vicinity of Brussels, commanding a delightful view over the environs
+of the city. There are few views in Flanders so magnificent as that from
+the summit of this palace. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, laid out in the English style, and arranged with much
+taste.
+
+The vicinity of Brussels is so much clothed with wood, as to resemble,
+when seen from the spires of the city, a continued forest. To the
+south-west, indeed, the whole country is covered with the vast forest of
+_Soignies_, clothing a range of gentle hills, which stretch as far as
+the field of Waterloo. The varieties of wood scenery which it exhibits,
+are exceedingly beautiful; and in many places, the oaks grow to an
+immense size, and present the most picturesque appearance. It was from
+this forest that Bonaparte obtained the timber for his great naval
+arsenal at Antwerp.
+
+To the south of Brussels, in the direction of Liege, and in the environs
+of that town, the country is covered with innumerable cottages, in the
+neatest order, inhabited by manufacturers, who carry on, _in their own
+houses_, the fabrics for which that city is so celebrated. These
+cottagers have all their gardens and houses in property; and the
+appearance of prosperity, which their dwellings uniformly exhibit, as
+well as the neatness of their dress, and the costly nature of their
+fare, demonstrate the salutary influence, which this intermixture of
+manufacturing and agricultural occupation is fitted to have on the
+character and habits of the lower orders of society. It resembles, in
+this particular, the state of the people in the West Riding of
+Yorkshire, and in the beautiful scenes of the vale of Gloucester.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Brussels, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their neat gardens, their substantial
+dwellings, their comfortable dress, indicated here, as elsewhere in
+Flanders, the effects of long-continued and general prosperity. Most of
+these houses and gardens belong in property to the peasants; others are
+hired from the proprietors of the ground; but when this is the case,
+they generally have the advantage of a long lease. The peasants
+complained, in the bitterest terms, of the taxes and contributions of
+the French, stating that the public burdens had been more than
+quadrupled since they were separated from the Austrian Government, of
+which they still spoke in terms of affection and regret. The _impot
+fonciere_, or land-tax, under the French, amounted to one-fifth of the
+rent, or 20 _per cent_. The wages of labour were from 15 sous to one
+franc a-day; but the labourer dined with the farmer, his employer. Most
+of the land was laid out in garden cultivation, and every where tilled
+with the utmost care. The soil appeared rich and friable; and the
+crops, both of agricultural and garden produce, were extremely heavy.
+The rent was stated as varying from 60 to 150 francs _journatier_,
+which appeared to be about three-fourths of an acre.
+
+One thing struck us extremely in the condition of the people, both here
+and in other parts of Flanders--the sumptuous fare on which they live.
+It is a common thing to see artisans and mechanics sitting down to a
+dinner, at a table d'hôte, of ten or twelve dishes; such a dinner as
+would be esteemed excellent living in England. The lower orders of the
+people, the day labourers and peasants, seemed to live, generally
+speaking, in a very comfortable manner. Vegetables form a large portion
+of their food, and they are raised in large quantities, and great
+perfection, in all parts of the country.
+
+On leaving Brussels, we took the road to Malines and Antwerp. The
+surface of the ground the whole way is perfectly flat, and much
+intersected by canals, on whose banks much rich pasture is to be seen.
+For the first six miles, the road is varied by chateaus and villas, laid
+out in the stiff antiquated style of French gardening. The cultivation
+between Brussels and Malines is all conducted in the garden style, and
+with the most incomparable neatness; but the cottages are formed of wood
+and mud, and exhibited more symptoms of dilapidation, than in any other
+part of the country which we had seen. Whether this was the consequence
+of the materials of which they are built, or was the result of some
+local institution, we were unable to determine.
+
+We saw a body of 3000 Prussian _landwehr_ enter Brussels, shortly before
+we left the city. The appearance of these men was very striking. They
+had just terminated a march of 14 miles, under a burning sun, and were
+all covered with dust and sweat. Notwithstanding the military service in
+which they had been engaged, they still bore the appearance of their
+country occupations; their sun-burnt faces, their rugged features, and
+massy limbs, bespoke the life of laborious industry to which they had
+been habituated. They wore an uniform coat or frock, a military cap, and
+their arms and accoutrements were in the most admirable order; but in
+other respects, their dress was no other than what they had worn at
+home. The sight of these brave men told, in stronger language than words
+could convey, the grievous oppression to which Prussia had been
+subjected, and the unexampled valour with which her people had risen
+against the iron yoke of French dominion. They were not regular
+soldiers, raised for the ordinary service of the state, and arrayed in
+the costume of military life; they were not men of a separate
+profession, maintained by government for the purposes of defence; they
+were the _people of the country_, roused from their peaceful employments
+by the sense of public danger, and animated by the heroic determination
+to avenge the sufferings of their native land. The young were there,
+whose limbs were yet unequal to the weight of the arms which they had
+to bear; the aged were there, whose strength had been weakened by a life
+of labour and care; all, of whatever rank or station, marched alike in
+the ranks which their valour and their patriotism had formed. Their
+appearance suited the sacred cause in which they had been engaged, and
+marked the magnitude of the efforts which their country had made. They
+were still, in some measure, in the garb of rural life, but the
+determination of their step, the soldier-like regularity of their
+motions, and the enthusiastic expression of their countenances,
+indicated the unconquerable spirit by which they had been animated, and
+told the greatness of the sufferings which had at last awakened
+
+    "The might that slumbers in a peasant's arm."
+
+There is no spectacle in the moral history of mankind more interesting
+or more sublime, than that which was exhibited by the people of the
+north of Germany in the last war. During the progress of the disastrous
+wars which succeeded the French revolution, the states of Germany
+experienced all the miseries of protracted warfare, and all the
+degradation of conquered power; but amidst the sufferings and
+humiliation to which they were subjected, the might of Germany was
+concentrating its power; the enthusiasm of her people was animating the
+soldier's courage, and the virtue of her inhabitants was sanctifying the
+soldier's cause: and when at last the hour of retribution arrived, when
+the sufferings of twenty years were to be revenged, and the disgrace of
+twenty years was to be effaced; it was by the energy of her people that
+these sufferings were revenged, and by the sacrifices of her people,
+that these victories were obtained. Crushed as they had been beneath the
+yoke of foreign dominion; shackled as they were by the fetters of
+foreign power, and unprotected as they long continued to be from the
+ravages of hostile revenge; the people of PRUSSIA boldly threw off the
+yoke, and hesitated not to encounter all the fury of imperial ambition,
+that they might redeem the glory which their ancestors had acquired, and
+defend the land which their forefathers had preserved. While Austria yet
+hung in doubt between the contending Powers; while the fate of the
+civilized world was yet pending on the shores of the Vistula, the whole
+body of the Prussian people flew to arms; they left their homes, their
+families, and all that was dear to them, without provision, and without
+defence: they trusted in God alone, and in the justice of their cause.
+This holy enthusiasm supported them in many an hour of difficulty and of
+danger, when they were left to its support alone; it animated them in
+the bloody field of Juterbock, and overthrew their enemies on the banks
+of the Katzback; it burned in the soldier's breast under the walls of
+Leipsic, and sustained the soldier's fortitude in the plains of
+Vauchamp: it terminated not till it had planted the Prussian eagle
+victorious on the ruins of that power, which had affected to despise the
+efforts of the Prussian people.
+
+The town of Malines is exceedingly neat, and ornamented by a great
+tower, of heavy architecture, producing a striking effect from every
+part of the adjoining country. The interior of the church, like that of
+all the other Catholic churches, is impressive to an English spectator,
+from the effect of its vast dimensions. The town was entirely filled by
+Prussian soldiers, and landwehr of the Prussian corps d'armee of Bulow,
+who went through their evolutions in the exactest discipline.
+
+From Malines to Antwerp the country is under a higher system of
+management, than in any other district of Flanders which we had seen. It
+is thickly planted with trees, insomuch as, from an eminence, to have
+the appearance of a continued forest. The landscape scenery, seen
+through the openings of the wood, and generally terminating in a village
+spire, is exceedingly beautiful, and reminded us of the scenes in
+Waterloo's engravings. Great quantities of potatoes and beans are to be
+seen in the fields, which are kept in the highest state of cultivation.
+The number of villages is extremely great; but the people, though so
+numerous, had all the appearance of being in a prosperous and happy
+condition.
+
+On approaching Antwerp, the trees and houses are all cut down, to give
+room for the fire of the cannon-shot from the ramparts of the fortress.
+We passed over this desolated space in the evening, soon after sunset,
+when the spires of the city had a beautiful effect on the fading colours
+of the western sky. High over all rose the spire of the cathedral, a
+most beautiful piece of the lightest Gothic, of immense height, and the
+most exquisite proportions. Though this building has stood for seven
+centuries, the carving of the pinnacles, and the finishing of the
+ornaments, are at this moment as perfect as the day they were formed;
+and when seen in shadow on an evening sky, present a spectacle which
+combines all that is majestic and graceful in Gothic architecture.
+
+After passing through the numerous gates, and over the multiplied
+bridges which surround this fortress, we found ourselves in the interior
+of Antwerp; a city of great interest, in consequence of the warlike
+preparations of which it had been the theatre, and the importance which
+had been attached to it by both parties in the recent contest. It is an
+extensive old city, evidently formed for a much more extensive commerce
+than it has now for a long period enjoyed. The form of the houses is
+singular, grotesque and irregular, offering at every turn the most
+picturesque forms to a painter's eye. We were soon conducted to the
+famous dockyard, constructed by Bonaparte, which had been the source of
+so much uneasiness to this country; and could not help being surprised
+at the smallness of the means which he had been able to obtain for the
+overthrow of our naval power. The docks did not appear to us at all
+large; but they are very deep, and during the siege, by the English and
+Prussian troops, contained 20 ships of the line, besides 14 frigates.
+When we saw them they were lying in the Scheldt, and being all within
+two miles of each other, presented a very magnificent spectacle.
+
+In the arsenal were 14 ships of the line on the stocks, of which seven
+were of 120 guns; but these vessels were all demolished except one,
+shortly after we left them, in virtue of an article in the treaty of
+Paris. Bonaparte had for long been exerting himself to the utmost to
+form a great naval depot at Antwerp; he had not only fortified the town
+in the strongest possible manner, but collected immense quantities of
+timber and other naval stores for the equipment of a powerful fleet. The
+ships first built, however, had been formed of wood, which was so ill
+seasoned, that, ever since their construction, above 200 carpenters had
+been employed annually to repair the beams which were going to decay.
+
+In the citadel, which is a beautiful fortification in the finest order,
+we conversed with various English soldiers who had been in the attack on
+Bergen-op-Zoom, of which they all spoke in terms of the utmost horror.
+Its failure they ascribed not to any error in the plan of attack, which
+they all agreed was most skilfully combined, but to a variety of
+circumstances which thwarted the attack, after its success appeared to
+have been certain. Our troops, they said, went round the ramparts, and
+carried every battery; but neglecting to spike the guns, the French came
+behind them, and turned the guns they had recently captured against
+themselves. Much also was attributed to the hesitation occasioned by the
+death of the principal officers, and the unfortunate effect of the
+discovery of some spirit cellars, from which the soldiers could not be
+restrained. We were much gratified, by hearing the warm and enthusiastic
+manner in which even the private soldiers spoke of their gallant
+commander, Sir Thomas Graham; While we admired the frank, open and
+independent spirit which these English soldiers in garrison at Antwerp
+evinced, we could not help observing, that they did not converse on
+military matters with nearly the same intelligence, or evince the same
+reflection on the manœuvres of war, as those of the French imperial
+guard, with whom we had spoken in a former part of our journey.
+
+Though such extensive naval preparations had been going forward for
+years at Antwerp, there was not the slightest appearance of bustle at
+activity in the streets, or on the quays of the city. These were as
+deserted, as if Antwerp had been reduced to a fishing village,
+indicating, in the strongest manner, that nothing but the habits of
+commerce, and the command of the seas, can nurse that body of active
+seamen, who form the only foundation of naval power.
+
+There is a fine picture, by Oels, in the church of St Paul's at Antwerp;
+but the church itself is built in the most barbarous taste. The
+cathedral is a most magnificent building, both in the outside and
+inside; and its spire, which is 460 feet in height, is probably the
+finest specimen of light Gothic in the world. Its immense aisles were
+filled at every hour of the day, by numbers of people, who seemed to
+join in the service with sincere devotion, and exhibited the example of
+a country, in which religious feeling was generally diffused among the
+people--which formed a striking contrast to the utter indifference to
+these subjects which universally prevails in France.
+
+It was not a mere vain threat on the part of Napoleon, that he would
+burn the English manufactures. We were informed at Antwerp by
+eye-witnesses, that they had seen £. 90,000 worth of English goods
+burnt at once in the great square of that city; all of which _had been
+bought and paid for_ by the Flemish merchants. The people then spoke in
+terms of great sorrow, of the ruin which this barbarous policy had
+brought upon the people of the countries in which it was carried into
+effect.
+
+In the vicinity of Antwerp, we walked over the _Counter Dyke of
+Couvestein_, which was the scene of such desperate conflicts between the
+army of the Prince of Parma, and the troops of the United Provinces, who
+were advancing to the relief of Antwerp. The interest arising from the
+remembrance of this memorable struggle, was increased by the narrowness
+of the ground on which the action was maintained, being a long dyke
+running across the low country which borders the banks of the Scheldt
+near Fort Lillo, and which alone of all the surrounding country, at the
+time of the action, was not immersed in water. Every foot, therefore, of
+the ground of this dyke which we trod, must have been the spot on which
+a desperate struggle had been maintained. In casting our eyes back to
+the distant spires of the city of Antwerp, we could not help entering
+for an instant, into the feelings of the people who were then besieged;
+and remembering that these spires, which now rose so beautifully on the
+distant horizon, were then crowded with people, who awaited with
+dreadful anxiety, in the issue of the action which was then pending, the
+future fate of themselves and their children.
+
+To those who take an interest in the delightful study of political
+economy, and who have examined the condition of the people in different
+countries, with a view to discover the causes of their welfare or their
+suffering, there is no spectacle so interesting as that which the
+situation of the people in Flanders affords. The country is uniformly
+populous in the extreme; go where you will, you every where meet with
+the marks of a dense population; yet no where are the symptoms of
+general misery to be found; no where does the principle of population
+seem to press beyond the limits assigned for the comfortable maintenance
+of the human species. Flanders has exhibited, for centuries, the
+instance of a _numerous, dense, and happy population_. It would perhaps
+not be unreasonable to conclude, from this circumstance, that the
+doctrines now generally admitted in regard to the increase of the human
+species have been received with too little examination. Man possesses
+in himself the principles requisite for the regulation of the increase
+of the numbers of mankind; and where the influence of government does
+not interfere with their operation, they are sufficient to regulate the
+progress of population according to the interest and welfare of all
+classes of the people.
+
+
+END OF VOLUME FIRST.
+
+EDINBURGH: Printed by JOHN PILLANS, James's Court.
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS 1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX, AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREADIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52, PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK, PARRY AND CO. T.
+UNDERWOOD, LONDON; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO AIX.
+
+
+IT was thought advisable, by the gentleman who is now about to commence
+his journal, to avoid making many remarks on the state of the country,
+or the manners of the inhabitants, until he should have remained fixed
+for a few months in France. In no country is it so difficult as there,
+to obtain information regarding the most interesting points, whether
+commerce, manufactures, agriculture, manners, or religion; and this
+arises from the multitude of people of all descriptions, who are
+willing, and who at least appear able, to afford you information.
+Strange paradox. A Frenchman makes it a rule, never to refuse
+information on any subject when it is demanded of him; and although he
+may, in fact, never have directed his attention to the matter in
+question, and may not possess the slightest information, he will yet
+descant most plausibly, and then seeking some opportunity of bidding you
+good day, he will fly off with the velocity of an arrow, leaving you
+astonished at the talent displayed: But sit down and analyse what he has
+said, and you will commonly find it the most thorough trifling--"_vox et
+prœterea nihil_." This observation, however, I mean only to apply to the
+information which a traveller obtains _en passant_; for there are
+undoubtedly to be found in France, men of eminent talents and of solid
+information; but these you can only pick out from the mass of common
+acquaintances, by dint of perseverance, and by the assistance of time.
+The result of the observations collected during a residence of five
+months at Aix, in Provence, will be given at the end of the following
+Journal.
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+As our present journey was undertaken principally for the benefit of my
+health, it was necessary that we should travel slowly, and take
+occasional rests. After our journey from Dieppe to the capital, we
+remained five days in Paris for this purpose. The first part of this
+book having conducted the reader by another route to Paris, and given a
+better description of that city than I am able to supply, I have not
+thought it necessary to insert the details of our journey thither; I
+shall content myself with remarking, that we had already gained
+considerable experience in French travelling, and were pretty well
+prepared to commence our journey toward the south.--On the 7th of
+November, therefore, we arranged matters for our departure with the
+_voiturier_, or carriage-hirer, who agrees to carry us (six in number),
+with all our baggage, which weighs nearly four cwt. to Lyons, a distance
+of 330 miles, for the sum of 630 francs, or, at our exchange, nearly
+L.30. As this bargain was made for us by Mr B----, a French gentleman,
+it may afford a good standard for this style of travelling.
+
+We travel at the rate of 10 or 12 leagues a-day; and for invalids or
+persons wishing to see the country, this is by far the most pleasant, as
+well as the most economical way. There are two other methods of
+travelling, namely, _en poste_, which, though rapid, is very expensive;
+the charge being, at least a horse, often more, for each person, and
+very little baggage being taken; and the other is in a diligence, which,
+as it travels night and day, would not do for us. The carriage we now
+have is a large and commodious coach, very neat and clean, and we have
+three good strong horses. Our journey has as yet been varied by very
+little incident. The amusement derived from travelling in a foreign
+country, and becoming gradually familiarised to foreign manners,--the
+contrast between the style of travelling here, and that which you are
+accustomed to in England,--the amusing groupes of the villagers, who
+flock out of their houses, to see the English pass,--the grotesque and
+ludicrous figures of the French beggars, who, in the most unbounded
+variety of costume, surround the carriage the moment we stop,--and the
+solemn taciturnity of Monsieur Roger, our coachman, who is an
+extraordinary exception to the general vivacity of his nation; these are
+the only circumstances which serve at present to exhilarate our spirits,
+and to remove the tedium of French travelling.
+
+Between Paris and Montargis, as we travelled during the day, we had a
+good opportunity of seeing the country. But we passed through it, to be
+sure, at an unfavourable season of the year. The vines were all
+withered, and their last leaves falling off. The elm, oak, and maple,
+were almost bare. There is not much fine wood in that part of the
+country through which we passed; and on the side of the road, there were
+many wild and sad looking swamps, with nothing but willow and poplars
+docked off for the twigs. The chief produce seems to be in grapes and
+wheat; the wheat here is further advanced than between Dieppe and Paris.
+The cows are of the same kind, the horses smaller, weaker, and yet
+dearer than those of Normandy; the agricultural instruments are massy
+and awkward; their ploughing is, however, very neat and regular, though
+not deep; their plough here has wheels, and seems easily managed; they
+harrow the land most effectually, having sometimes 10 or 12 horses in
+succession, each drawing a separate harrow over the same ground. The
+farm-horses, though very poor to an English eye, are fortunately much
+better than the horses for travelling. The stacks of grain, though
+rarely seen, are very neatly built. We left the grand road at
+Fontainbleau, and took the route by Nevers to Lyons. We have found it
+hitherto by no means equal to the other. No stone causeway in the
+middle, and at this time of the year, I should fear it is always as we
+found it, very heavy and dirty.
+
+Our journey hitherto has not allowed of our mixing much among or
+conversing with the people; but still we cannot but be struck with the
+dissimilarity of manners from those of our own country. The French are
+not now uniformly, found the same merry, careless, polite, and sociable
+people they were before the revolution; but we may trust that they are
+gradually improving; and although one can easily distinguish among the
+lower ranks, the fierce uncivilized ruffians, who have been raised from
+their original insignificance by Napoleon to work his own ends, yet the
+real peasantry of the country are generally polite.
+
+At the inns, the valets and ostlers were for the most part old soldiers
+who had marched under Napoleon; they seemed happy, or at least always
+expressed themselves happy, at being allowed to return to their homes:
+one of them was particularly eloquent in describing the horrors of the
+last few months; he concluded by saying, "that had things gone on in
+this way for a few months longer, Napoleon must have made the women
+march." They affirm, however, that there is a party favourable to
+Bonaparte, consisting of those whose trade is war, and who have lived by
+his continuance on the throne; but that this party is not strong, and
+little to be feared: Would that this were true! When we were in Paris,
+there were a number of caricatures ridiculing the Bourbons; but these
+miserable squibs are no test of the public feeling. Napoleon certainly
+has done much for Paris; the marks of his magnificence are there every
+where to be seen; but the further we travel, the more are we convinced
+that he has done littler for the interior of the country.
+
+There is about every town and village an air of desolation; most of the
+houses seem to have wanted repairs for a long time. The inns must strike
+every English traveller, as being of a kind entirely new to him. They
+are like great old castles half furnished. The dirty chimneys suit but
+ill with the marble chimney-pieces, and the gilded chairs and mirrors,
+plundered in the revolution; the tables from which you eat are of ill
+polished common wood; the linen coarse though clean. The cutlery, where
+they have any, is very bad; but in many of the inns, trusting, no doubt,
+to the well known expedition of French fingers, they put down only forks
+to dinner.
+
+We left Montargis at seven in the morning, and travelled very slowly
+indeed. At five o'clock, after a very tedious journey, we arrived at
+Briare, a distance of only 27 miles from Montargis. The landlord here
+was the most talkative, and the most impudent fellow I ever saw.
+Although demanding the most unreasonable terms, he would not let us
+leave his house; at last he said that he would agree to our terms,
+namely, 18 francs for our supper and beds: It is best to call it supper
+in France, as this is their own phrase for a meal taken at night.
+
+The road between Montargis and Briare, though not of hard mettle and
+without causeway, is yet level and in good condition. The country,
+except in the immediate vicinity of Briare, is flat and uninteresting;
+no inclosures; the soil of a gravelly nature, mixed in some parts with
+chalk. It seems, from the stubble of last year and the young wheat of
+this, to be very poor indeed. There is here an odd species of wheat
+cultivation, in which the grain, like our potatoes, is seen growing on
+the tops of high separate ridges. It struck me that the deep hollows
+left between each ridge, might be intended to keep the water. The
+instruments of agriculture are quite the same as we have seen all along.
+Almost all of the peasants whom we saw to-day wore cocked hats, and had
+splendid military tails; we supposed, at first that they had all
+_marched_. There are great numbers of soldiers returning to their homes,
+pale, broken down and wearied. Some of them very polite, many of them
+rough and ruffian-looking enough. About Briare, there are innumerable
+vineyards, and yet we had very bad grapes; but that was our landlord's
+fault, not that of the vines.
+
+The rooms at this inn (Au Grand Dauphin), smoke like the devil, or
+rather like his abode. It is a wretched place; the inn opposite, called
+La Poste, is said to be better. The weather is now as cold here (10th of
+November), as I have ever felt it in winter at home, and it is a more
+piercing and searching cold.
+
+We had last night a good deal of rain. The weather is completely broken
+up, and we are at least three weeks or a month later than we ought to
+have been.
+
+* * *
+
+We have arrived at Cosne to-night, (the 11th), after a journey through a
+country better wooded, more varied, and upon the whole, finer than we
+have seen yet on this side of Paris, though certainly not so beautiful
+as Normandy. The road is pretty good, though not paved, excepting in
+small deep vallies. It lies along-side of the river Loire, and on each
+side, there are well cultivated fields, chiefly of wheat, but
+interspersed with vineyards.
+
+For the first time, this day we had a very severe frost in the morning,
+but with the aid of the sun, which shone bright and warm, we enjoyed one
+of the finest days I ever saw. I sat and chatted with the coachman, or
+rather with Monsieur le Voiturier. I led the conversation to the past
+and present state of France, and the character of Napoleon, and
+immediately he, who till this moment appeared to be as meek and gentle
+as a lamb, became the most eloquent and energetic man I have seen. It is
+quite wonderful, how the feelings of the people, added to their habits
+of extolling their own efforts, and those of Bonaparte, supply them with
+language. They are on this subject all orators. He declared, that Paris
+was sold by Marmont and others, but that we English do not understand
+what the Parisians mean when they say that Paris was sold. They do not
+mean that any one was paid for betraying his trust by receiving a bribe,
+but that Marmont and others having become very rich under Bonaparte,
+desired to spend their fortunes in peace, and had, therefore, deserted
+their master. He said that Bonaparte erred only in having too many
+things to do at once; but that if he had either relinquished the Spanish
+war for a while, or not gone to Moscow, no human power would have _been
+a match for him_, and even we in England would have felt this. He seemed
+to think, that it was an easy thing for Bonaparte to have equipped as
+good a navy as ours. He was quite insensible to the argument, that it
+was first necessary to have commerce, which nourishes our mariners, from
+among whom we have our fighting seamen. He said, that though _this was a
+work of years for others, it would have been nothing for Napoleon_: In
+short, he venerates the man, and says, that till the day when he left
+Paris, he was the greatest of men. He says, he knows well that there is
+still a strong party favourable to him among the military; yet that if
+they can once be set down at their own firesides, they will never wish
+to quit them, but that the danger will be, while they remain together in
+great bodies.
+
+To-day we saw several soldiers wounded, and returning to their homes in
+carts; they were fierce swarthy looking fellows, but very merry, and
+travelled singing all the way. To-morrow we expect to be at Nevers. At
+Cosne, the only objects of curiosity to the traveller are the
+manufactories of cutlery and ship anchors. The cutlery seems as good as
+any we have seen, but far inferior to even our inferior English cutlery:
+It is also dear. Thousands of boxes, with cutlery, were, immediately on
+our arrival at the inn, presented to us. Their great deficiency is in
+steel, for their best goods are nearly as highly polished as in England.
+We bought here some very pretty little toys for children, made of small
+coloured beads. We start to-morrow at six.----Distance about 19
+miles to Cosne.
+
+* * *
+
+This day's journey (the 12th), was the most fatiguing and the least
+interesting we have had. The country between Cosne and Nevers is, with
+the exception of one or two fine views from the heights on the road, the
+poorest, and, though well cultivated, has the least pretensions to
+beauty of any we have seen, particularly in the vicinity of Pouilly. It
+seems also to be nearly as poor as it is ugly. The soil is gravelly,
+with a mixture of chalk, and there occurs what I have not yet elsewhere
+seen, a great deal of fallow land, and even some common. The face of the
+country is considerably diversified by old wood, but we have only seen
+one plantation of young trees since we left Paris. The instruments of
+agriculture and carriage the same as before mentioned. The farm horses
+good. There seems a scarcity of milk, but this may be from the winter
+having set in. At the inn here I met with a young officer, who although
+only (to appearance) 17 or 18, had been in the Spanish war, at Moscow,
+and half over the world. He struck his forehead, when he said, [4]"Nous
+n'avons plus la guerre." There were at the inn here a number of officers
+and soldiers of the cavalry. Their horses are not to be compared with
+ours, either in size or beauty, and those of their officers are not so
+good, by any means, as the horses of our men in the guards.----
+Distance, 34 miles--to Nevers.
+
+* * *
+
+We went to walk in the town this morning, the 13th. The description of
+one French town on the Sunday will serve for all which we have seen.
+They are every day sufficiently filthy, but on Sunday, from the
+concourse of people, more than commonly so. They never have a pavement
+to fly to for clean walking, and for safety from the carriages. If you
+are near a shop, a lane, or entry when a carriage comes along, you may
+fly in, if not, you must trust to the civility of the coachman, who, if
+polite, will only splash you all over. On Sundays, their markets are
+held the same as on other days, and nearly all the shops had their doors
+open, but _their windows shut_. Thus they cheat the Devil, and, as they
+think, render sufficient homage to him who hath said, on that day "thou
+shalt do no manner of work." Yet while all this is going on, the
+churches are open, and those who are inclined go in, and take a minute,
+a quarter, half an hour, or an hour's devotion, as they think fit. We
+entered the nearest of these churches, and saw, what is always to be
+seen in them, a great deal, at least, of the outward shew of religion,
+and something in a few individuals of the congregation which looked like
+real devotion. After church, we went to the convent of St Mary, and were
+all admitted, both ladies and gentlemen. The nuns there are not, by any
+means, strictly confined; they are of that description who go abroad and
+attend the sick. Their pensioners (chiefly children from four to
+sixteen) are allowed to go and see their friends; and they were all
+presented to us. They are taught to read, write, work, &c. and are well
+fed and clothed. This convent was very neat and clean. The building
+formed a complete square, and the ground in the interior was very
+beautifully laid out as a garden. The cloisters were ornamented with
+pots of roses and carnations in full bloom, with the care of which the
+young pensioners amused themselves. They have a very pretty small
+chapel, over the outer door of which is written, [5]"Grand silence;" and
+over the inner this inscription; whose menacing promises is so ill
+suited to the spirit and temper of its conclusion: "Ah, que ce maison
+est terrible, c'est la maison de Dieu, et la porte du ciel." The holy
+sisters were of all ages, and many of them pretty--one, the handsomest
+woman I have seen in France.
+
+The ladies are just returned from a longer walk, and report the town to
+be ugly, and the streets insufferably dirty. Its manufactures are china,
+glass, and enamelled goods; toys of glass beads, and little trifles. The
+shopkeepers are, as in every town we have been at, perfect Jews, devoid
+of any thing like principle in buying and selling. We are every day
+learning more and more how to overcome our scruples with regard to
+_beating them down_. They always expect it, and only laugh at those who
+do not practise it.
+
+* * *
+
+This day we left Nevers at six in the morning. It appears to be a large
+town, when viewed from the bridge over which we crossed; but it is far
+from being a fine town in the interior. The streets are, like all French
+streets, narrow, and the houses have a look of antiquity, and a want of
+all repair; nothing like comfort, neatness, or tidiness, in any one of
+them. This is a melancholy desideratum in France, a want for which
+nothing can compensate. The road this day conducted us through a finer
+district than we have observed on this side of Paris; more especially
+between Nevers and St Pierre, where we have travelled through a richer
+and more beautiful country than we have yet seen. No longer the sand,
+and gravel, and chalk, which we have long been accustomed to, but a dark
+rich soil over a bed of freestone. Here also all the land is well
+enclosed. I have not yet been able to find the reason of this sudden
+change in the manner of preserving the fields: The face of the country
+is also more generally wooded; but from the necessity the French are
+under of cutting down whatever wood they find near the towns for their
+fires, all the fine trees are ruined in appearance, by their branches
+being lopped off: The effect of this on the appearance of the country is
+very sad.--Still we find a want of that agreeable alternation of hill
+and dale, of the enclosed meadows, and wooded vallies; of the broad and
+beautiful rivers and the small winding streams, which, as the finest
+features in their native landscape, have become necessary to a Scotch or
+an English eye.
+
+The dress of the women is here different from what we have elsewhere
+seen: the peasants' wives wearing large gipsey straw hats, very much
+turned up behind and before; the men have still the immense
+broad-brimmed black felt affairs, more like umbrellas than Christian
+hats. At the inn here, I saw a number of wounded soldiers returning to
+their homes; one of them, I observed, had his feet outside of his shoes.
+On entering into conversation with him, he told me that his toes had
+been nearly frozen off, but _that he expected to get them healed_: poor
+fellow, he was not above twenty. He told me that all the _young
+conscripts_ were delighted to return to their homes, and that only the
+old veterans were friends to the war.--I hope this may be true, but I
+doubt it. The country here shows that the winter is not so far advanced;
+many of the trees are still green; the roads had become heavy with the
+rain that has fallen; we have had two days hard frost, but to-day the
+weather is mild, and the air moist. We were recommended to the Hotel des
+Allies here, but preferred stopping at the first good-looking inn we
+found, as in great towns things are very dear at the houses of great
+resort; we have had a very good supper and tolerable lodgings for 18
+francs.
+
+To-morrow, we set out at seven.--We find our way of travelling tedious;
+but I think in summer it would be by far the best. Our three horses
+seldom take less than 10, sometimes 13 hours to their day's journey, of
+from 28 to 32 miles; but our carriage is large and roomy; and had we any
+thing like comfort at our inns, as at home, we should find the
+travelling very pleasant. The greatest annoyance arises from your having
+always to choose from the two evils, of being either shamefully imposed
+upon, or of having to bargain before-hand for the price of your
+entertainment.
+
+* * *
+
+It was near eight o'clock this morning, the 16th, before we got under
+weigh, and according to our coachman's account, we had been delayed by
+the horses being too much fatigued the night before. He continued to
+proceed so slowly, that we only reached Varrenes at four o'clock, a
+distance of 22 miles from Moulins, where we had last slept. Moulins is
+the finest town we have seen since we left Paris. The streets are there
+wider, and the houses, though old and black, are on a much better plan,
+and in better repair than any we have passed through; there is also
+somewhat of neatness and cleanliness about them. It is famous for its
+cutlery, and has a small manufacture of silk stockings; we saw some of
+the cutlery very neat and highly polished in some parts, but coarse and
+ill finished in others. The variety of shapes which the French give
+their knives is very amusing.
+
+The road between Moulins and Varrenes is through a much prettier country
+than we have seen since we left Paris; there is more wood, with
+occasional variety of orchards and vineyards and corn fields. The
+ploughing, is here carried on by bullocks, and these are also used in
+the carts. All the country is enclosed, and the lands well dressed. The
+wheat is not nearly so far advanced here, which must arise from its
+being more lately sowed, for the winter is only commencing; many of the
+trees are still in fall leaf.
+
+We cannot well judge of any change of climate, as we have just had a
+change from hard frost to thaw; but every thing has the appearance of a
+milder atmosphere. I enquired into the reason of the want of hedges
+hitherto, and their abundance here, and was told, that it arose from the
+greater subdivision of property as well as from the number of cows: that
+every man almost had his little piece of land, and his cow, pigs, hens,
+&c. and that they could not afford to have herds. The yoke of the
+bullocks here, is not, as in India, and in England, placed on the neck
+and shoulders, but on the forehead and horns: this, though to appearance
+the most irksome to the poor animals, is said here to be the way in
+which they work best. The sheep are very small, and of a long-legged and
+poor kind: the hogs are the poorest I have ever seen; they are as like
+the sheep as possible, though with longer legs, and resembling
+greyhounds in the drawn-up belly and long slender snout; they seem
+content with wondrous little, and keep about the road sides, picking up
+any thing but wholesome food.
+
+The cottages on the road, and in the small towns, are generally very
+dirty, and inhabited by a very motley and promiscuous set of beings; the
+men, women, children, indeed pigs, fowls, &c. all huddled together. The
+pigs here appear so well accustomed to a cordial welcome in the houses,
+that when by chance excluded, you see them impatiently rapping at the
+door with their snouts.
+
+* * *
+
+We left Varrenes this morning, at six o'clock, and entered on a new
+country, which presented to us a greater variety of scenery. The road
+between Varrenes and St Martin D'Estreaux is almost all the way among
+the hills, which are often covered to the top with wood. After
+travelling for so long a time through a country which was almost
+uniformly flat, our sensations were delightful in again approaching
+something like a hilly district. The roads we found extremely bad, and
+although we have had rain, I do not think that their condition is to be
+ascribed to the weather. They want repair, and appear to have been
+insufficient in their metal from the first. We were obliged here to have
+a fourth horse, which our coachman ordered and paid for; he went with us
+as far as Droiturier, and then left us. We made out 28 miles of bad
+road, between six in the morning and four in the evening. The hilly
+country throughout is extremely well cultivated, and the soil apparently
+pretty good. France has indeed shewn a different face from what an
+Englishman would expect, after such a draining of men and money.
+
+In our route to-day, the country became very interesting, the swelling
+hills were beautiful, and the first clear stream we have seen in France
+winded through a wooded valley, along whose side we travelled. Many
+little cottages were scattered up and down in the green intervals of the
+woods, or crept up the brows of the hills; and after the monotonous
+plains we had passed, the whole scene was truly delightful. At the inn
+at La Palisse, I met with a very pleasant French lady, who strongly
+advised me to avoid Montpellier, as the winds there are very sharp in
+winter; she said two friends of her's had been sent from it on account
+of complaints contracted there. She recommended Nice.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Thursday_, 17th.)--The road to-day was through ranges of hills, and,
+for the latter part of it, we were obliged to have a fourth horse. The
+road very heavy in most places, and in some wretchedly ill-paved, with
+stones of unequal size, and not squared. From the top of these hills the
+view of the several vallies through which we passed was very beautiful,
+though certainly not equal in beauty to Devonshire, or to some parts of
+Perthshire, and other of the more fertile districts in Scotland: the
+soil far from good, and the crops of wheat thin;--yet there is not an
+atom of the soil lying waste, the hills being cultivated up to the
+summit. The cultivation is still managed by oxen, as is the carriage of
+farm produce, and all kinds of cart-work. They have had a sad mortality
+among the cattle about St Germain L'Epinàsse; and all things appear to
+have been affected by this disaster, for we found the milk, butter,
+fowls, grain, every thing very dear indeed. In France, when a disease
+seizes the cattle, parties of soldiers are sent to prevent the people
+from selling their cattle, or sending them to other parts of the
+country. One of these parties (a small troop of dragoons) we met on the
+road.
+
+On our route to-day, we crossed the Loire at a pretty large and busy
+town, called Roanne. The river here is very large, but has only a wooden
+bridge over it: there are some fine arches, forming the commencement of
+a most magnificent new stone bridge, the work of Napoleon; the work had
+the appearance of having been some time interrupted. Alas, that the good
+King cannot continue such works!
+
+Here, for the first time, we saw coals, and in great quantity; the boats
+on which they are carried, are long, square flat-bottomed boxes.
+Although in a mountainous country, and with a poor soil, the houses of
+the peasants were here much better than any we have seen, though a good
+deal out of repair; they are high and comfortable, having many of them
+two flats, and all with windows. We saw a number of fields in which the
+people were turning up and dressing the soil with spades: This, and
+indeed many other things in this mountainous part of the country,
+reminded me of parts of the Highlands of Scotland, and the island of St
+Helena. But it would not be easy to conceive yourself transported to
+those parts of the world, when here you every now and then encounter a
+peasant in a cocked hat, with a red velvet coat, or with blue velvet
+breeches: this proclaims us near Lyons, the country of silks and
+velvets. The climate is very delightful at present; during a great part
+of to-day, I sat on the box with _Monsieur le Voiturier_, who is now
+become so attached to us, that I think he will go with us to our
+journey's end. He is a most excellent, sober and discreet man, and has
+given us no trouble, and ample satisfaction. To-day, we passed two very
+pretty clear streams. The country seats are numerous here, but none of
+those that we have yet seen are fine; they are either like the very old
+English manor-houses, or if of a later date, are like large
+manufactories; a mass of regular windows, and all in ruinous condition;
+nothing like fine architecture have we yet met with. To-morrow we start
+again at six, and hope to sleep within four leagues of Lyons.----
+Distance 34 miles--to St Simphorien de Lay.
+
+* * *
+
+This morning, we set off, as usual, at six, and only made out in five
+hours a distance of 16 miles, arriving at the small town of Tarrare,
+which is beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. This difficulty
+in travelling is occasioned by the road being extremely precipitous. It
+winds, however, for several miles very beautifully through the valley,
+by the banks of a clear stream; and the hills which rise on each side,
+are in many places cultivated to the top, while others are richly
+wooded: towards the bases they slope into meadows, which are now as
+green as in the middle of summer, and where the cows are grazing by the
+water-side. The air is warm and pleasant, the sky unclouded, and the
+light of a glorious sun renders every object gay and beautiful. This
+valley is, I think, much more beautiful than any part of France we have
+yet seen. Through the passes in the hills, we have had some very fine
+peeps at the country to which we are travelling. Every inch of the
+ground on these mountains is turned to good account; as the grass, from
+the soil and exposure, is very scanty, the peasants make use of the same
+method of irrigating as at St Helena. Where there is found a spring of
+water, they form large reservoirs into which it is received, and from
+these reservoirs they lead off small channels, which overflow the field,
+and give an artificial moisture to the soil. The houses of the peasants
+are still excellent, but there appears a great want of cattle. The
+fields are ploughed with oxen, very small and lean; we had two of them
+to assist us on the way from St Simphorien to Pain Bouchain.
+
+At Tarrare, I am sorry to say, we found a want of almost every comfort.
+It is a pretty large town, neater in exterior appearance than any we
+have seen, but very dirty within; it is famous for its muslins and
+calicoes.----All this day we have had nothing but constant ascending
+and descending; the country occasionally very fine, and always well
+cultivated. The ploughs here are very small and ill made; they have no
+wheels, and are drawn by oxen. Some of the valleys in our route to-day
+would be beyond any thing beautiful, if varied with a few of those fine
+trees, which we are accustomed to meet with every day in England and
+Scotland; but the manner in which the French trees are cut, clipped, and
+hacked, renders them very disgusting to our eyes. I have not seen one
+truly fine tree since we left Paris, about the environs of which there
+are a few. There is also a great scarcity of gentlemen's seats, of
+castles and other buildings, and of gardens of every kind. France, one
+would suppose, ought to be the country of flowers; but not one flower
+garden have we yet seen.----Distance about 31 miles--to the
+Half-way-House, between Arras and Salvagny.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Saturday, 18th._)--We left the inn at the half-way village, whose name
+I forgot to ask, between Arras and Salvagny, at six this morning, and
+arrived at Lyons at half-past ten. On the subject of to-day's route very
+little can be said. The first part of it conducted over a long
+succession of very steep hills, for about four miles, after which we
+descended through a fine varied country to the city of Lyons.----
+Distance, 16 miles to Lyons.
+
+Lyons is certainly a fine town, although, like Paris, it has only a few
+fine public buildings, among a number of very old and ruinous-looking
+houses. It is chiefly owing to the ideas of riches and commerce with
+which both of these towns _are connected_, that we would call them
+_fine_, for they have neither fine streets nor fine ranges of houses. I
+need not mention, that Lyons is the place of manufacture for all kinds
+of silks, velvets, ribbons, fringes, &c. But here, as at many
+manufactories, things bought by retail are as dear, or even dearer, than
+at Paris. The ladies of our party had built castles in the air all the
+way to Lyons; but they found every thing dearer than at Paris, and
+almost as dear as in England.
+
+Now that I have seen a little of the manners and dress of the people in
+the two largest towns in France, I may hazard a few observations on
+these subjects. I think it is chiefly among the lower ranks that the
+superior politeness of the French is apparent. Although you still find
+out the ruffians and banditti who have figured on the stage under
+Napoleon, yet the greater, by far the greater number, are mild,
+cheerful, and obliging. A common Frenchman, in the street, if asked the
+way to a place, will generally either point it out very clearly, or say,
+"Allow me to accompany you, Sir." Among the higher ranks of society you
+will find many obliging people; but you will also discover many whose
+situation alone can sanction your calling them gentlemen. There
+appears, moreover, in France, to be a sort of blending together of the
+high and low ranks of society, which has a bad effect on the more
+polite, without at all bettering the manners of the more uncivilized. To
+discover who are gentlemen, and who are not, without previously knowing
+something of them, or at least entering into conversation, is very
+difficult. In England, all the middling ranks dress so well, that you
+are puzzled to find out the gentleman. In France, they dress so ill in
+the higher ranks, that you cannot distinguish them from the lower. One
+is often induced to think, that those must be gentlemen who wear orders
+and ribbons at their buttons, but, alas! almost every one in France at
+the present day has one of these ribbons. In the dress of the women
+there is still less to be found that points out the distinction of their
+ranks. To my eye, they are all wretchedly ill dressed, for they wear the
+same dark and dirty-looking calicoes which our Scotch maid-servants wear
+only on week days. This gives to their dress an air of meanness; but
+here the English ought to consider, that these cotton goods are in
+France highly valued, and very dear, from their scarcity. Over these
+dresses they wear (at present) small imitation shawls, of wool, silk,
+or cotton. They have very short petticoats, and shew very neat legs and
+ankles, but covered only with coarse cotton stockings, seldom very
+white; often with black worsted stockings. I have not seen one
+handsomely dressed woman as yet in France; the best had always an air of
+shabbiness about her, which no milliner's daughter at home would shew.
+They are said to dress much more gaily in the evening. When we mix a
+little more in French society, we shall be able to judge of this.
+
+This want of elegance and richness in dress, is, I think, one of the
+marks of poverty in France. I have mentioned before the ruinous
+appearance of the villages and houses. The excessive numbers of beggars
+is another. The French themselves say that there is a great want of
+money in France; they affirm that there is no scarcity of men, and that
+with more money the French could have fought for many years to come.
+They certainly are the vainest people in the universe; they have often
+told me, _that could Bonaparte have continued his blockade of the
+Continental trade a few months more, England would have been undone_.
+They sometimes confess, that they would have been rather at a loss for
+Coffee, Sugar, and Cotton, had we continued our war with the Americans,
+who were their carriers. The want of the first of these articles would
+annoy any country, but in France they cannot live without it: in England
+they might.
+
+* * *
+
+This day, _Monday_ the 20th, we left Lyons at one o'clock in the
+forenoon, travelling in most unfavourable weather, and through almost
+impassable streets. The situation of Lyons is beautiful; the site of the
+town is at the conflux of the Soane and the Rhone; a fine ridge of hills
+rises behind the city; the innumerable houses which are scattered up and
+down the heights, the fine variety of wood and cultivation, and the
+little villages which you discern at a distance in the vallies, give it
+the appearance of a romantic, yet populous and delightful neighbourhood.
+
+We were not able to see much of the interior of the town; but in passing
+once or twice through the principal streets, and more particularly in
+leaving the town, we had a good view of the public buildings. Many of
+them are very fine, and the whole town has an appearance of wealth, the
+effect of commerce. But a better idea of the wealth is given, by the
+innumerable loads of goods of different kinds, which you meet with on
+the roads in the vicinity of this favoured city, on the Paris and
+Marseilles sides of the town. The roads are completely ploughed up at
+this season of the year, and almost impassable. The waggoners are even a
+more independent set of men than with us in England; they keep their
+waggons in the very middle of the road, and will not move for the
+highest nobleman in the land; this, however, is contrary to the police
+regulations. The land carriage here is almost entirety managed by mules.
+These are from 13 to 14 hands high, and surpass in figure and limb
+anything I could have imagined of the sons and daughters of asses. The
+price of these animals varies from L.10 to L.40, according to size and
+temper. They are found of all colours; but white, grey, and bay are the
+most uncommon. Our journey this day was only as far as Vienne, a pretty
+large village, or it might be called a town. We entered it at night, and
+the rain pouring down upon us. These are two very great evils in French
+travelling; for either of them puts you into the hands of the
+innkeepers, who conceive, that at night, and in such weather, you must
+have lodging speedily, at any price. At the first inn we came to, we met
+with a reception, (which, to those accustomed to the polite and grateful
+expression, with which in arriving at an English inn, you are received
+by the attentive host or hostess), was altogether singular. The landlady
+declared, with the voice and action of a virago, that at this time of
+night, the highest guests in the land should not enter her roof upon any
+terms. The landlord, on the contrary, behaved with great politeness,
+entreated not to take offence at his wife's uncommon appearance. "C'est
+seulement un tête chaud, Monsieur, mais faites moi l'honeur d'y entrer."
+We accordingly did so; and this was the signal for the commencement of a
+scene in the interior of the inn, which was probably never equalled in
+the annals of matrimonial dissension. The landlady first gave a kind of
+prefatory yell, which was only a prelude of war-whoop, introductory to
+that which was to follow. She then began to tear her hair in handfuls;
+and kept alternately brandishing knives, forks, pots, logs of wood, in
+short, whatever her hand fell upon in the course of her fury, at her
+poor passive help-mate, who appeared to consider the storm with a
+nonchalance, which evidently could only have been produced by very long
+experience; while he kept saying to us all the time, [6]_"Soyez
+tranquille, Monsieur; ce n'est rien que cela."_ At length he commenced
+getting ready our supper, and I entered into conversation with a very
+great man, the mayor of the village, who, _adorned with a splendid order
+at his breast_, was quietly bargaining for his supper. Nothing more
+completely astonishes an Englishman than this extraordinary mixture of
+all ranks of society, which takes place at the kitchen fire of a French
+inn. You will there see, not only sitting, but familiarly conversing
+together, officers and gentlemen, coachmen, waggoners, and all classes
+of people, each addressing the other as _Monsieur_. The mayor here,
+being, to all appearance, a most communicative fellow, was easily got on
+the politics of the day. I began by enumerating the blessings of peace,
+and by extolling the character of the present King, in all of which he
+seemed to join with heart and soul. He told me how Bonaparte treated the
+mayors of the different towns,--how he would raise them up at all hours
+of the night,--how he forced them to seize on grain wherever it was
+found. In short, he abused him in the vilest terms. I put in an
+observation or two in his favour, when suddenly my friend whispered
+me,--"Sir, to be frank with you, he was the greatest man ever lived, and
+the best ruler for France." I encouraged him a little, by assenting to
+all he said, and I found him a staunch friend of Napoleon, anxious for
+his return: I have no doubt, that time-serving gentlemen like these,
+would wish for nothing more. It appeared to me, that his highness, the
+mayor, was in very high spirits, either from wine, or that it was his
+nature--however, "In vino veritas."----Distance, nineteen miles to
+Vienne.
+
+* * *
+
+We had a miserable lodging at this vile inn, (Hotel du Parc at Vienne.)
+We left it with pleasure, this morning, (_Tuesday_ the 21st), although
+the weather continued most unfavourable; yet any thing was better than
+remaining in such a house. The day continued to rain without
+intermission; and we made out with difficulty about 30 miles, to St
+Vallier. The country through which we passed to-day, is the most bare
+and barren we have seen, particularly when we approached St Vallier. The
+soil, a deep gravel, producing nothing but grapes, and a wretched scanty
+crop of wheat. The grapes, however, are here the finest for wine in
+France. It is here that the famous wines of Cotè Rotie and Hermitage are
+made. To the very summits of the hills, you see this wretched looking
+soil enclosed with stone dykes, and laid out in vineyards. We tasted
+some of the grapes here, and though out of season, we found them very
+fine; they were of a small black kind called Seeràn.
+
+The woman at the inn here, was sent for from the church, to see whether
+she would receive us on our terms of 18 francs, which is what we now
+always pay; having asked 20, we settled with her, and she went back to
+her devotions. We have now had three days of continued rain, which
+renders travelling very uncomfortable, and the roads most wretched. We
+still rise every morning at five, and are on the road at six. The air is
+mild, but very damp. The honey of Narbonne, got at Lyons, is the finest
+in France. I forgot to mention, that at Lyons we tried the experiment of
+going to the _table d'hôte_. We ought not, however, to form the opinion
+of a good _table d'hôte_ from the one of the Hotel du Parc. It was
+mostly composed of what are here called _Pensionaires_; people who dine
+there constantly, paying a smaller sum than the common rate of three
+francs. The company was, therefore, rather low, and the table scantily
+provided; but I should think, that for gentlemen travellers, a _table
+d'hôte_, where a good one is held, would be the best manner of
+dining.----Distance 30 miles to St Vallier.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, the 22d.--We left St Vallier at half past six in the
+morning, and only reached St Valence, a distance of 23 miles, by five
+o'clock. This delay was occasioned by the heavy fall of rain during
+these four last days, and by there being no bridge over the Isere,
+within four or five miles of Valence. The former bridge, (a most
+beautiful one, though only of wood), had been burnt down, by General
+Augereau to intercept the progress of the Austrians. The French appear
+to hate Augereau as much as Marmont; they say he was a traitor to
+Napoleon, to whom he owed every thing. The country through which we
+passed to-day, was as plain and uninteresting as yesterday's, though
+still all cultivated. Nothing but vines on the hills, and the plains
+almost bare--still gravelly. We found the Isere much swollen by the
+rain. The contrivance for carrying over the carts and carriages, is
+exceedingly simple and beautiful: Three very high trees are formed into
+a triangle, such as we raise for weighing coals. One of these is placed
+on each side of the river, and a rope passes over a groove at the top,
+and is fixed down at each side of the river; to this rope that crosses
+the river is attached a block and pulley, and to this pulley is fixed
+the rope of the boat. The stream tries by its rapidity to carry the boat
+down; the rope across prevents this; and it therefore slides across,
+with a regular though rapid motion.
+
+It appears to me that we are getting into a poorer country in every
+respect; for the inns are worse, the food worse, the roads worse, &c.
+There seems a want of poultry as well as butcher meat. Mutton here is
+very poor. Our inn to-night is the best we have seen since we left
+Lyons; it is at the Golden Cross, outside the town of Valence, and is
+neatly kept and well served. The waiter here had served in the army for
+six years. He says, there are indeed many of the soldiers who wish for
+war; but that he really believes there are as many who wish for peace: I
+have little faith in this. We observed this morning a large party of men
+returning from the galleys, having passed the time of their
+imprisonment. They were all uniformly dressed in red flannel clothes and
+small woollen caps, and attended by gens-d'armes.----Distance 23
+miles--to St Valence.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday_, the 23d.--We left St Valence well enough pleased with our
+lodging at the Golden Cross. It is, however, an exception to the bad set
+of inns we have lately been at. In the kitchen here, which I entered
+from curiosity, as the ladies went up stairs to the parlour, I found, as
+usual, a most extraordinary mixture of company. I listened, without
+joining at all in the conversation. The theme of discourse was a report
+that had been circulated, that all the young troops were to hold
+themselves in readiness again to take up arms. The only foundation I
+could find for this report was, _that a drum had been beat for some
+reason or other that evening._ This was a good opportunity of attending
+to the state of the public feeling here;--all and every one seemed
+delighted at the thoughts of war, provided it was with the Austrians.
+One man (a shopkeeper to appearance), said, that his son, a trumpeter,
+when he heard the drum, leapt from his seat, and, dancing about the
+room, exclaimed, [7]"La guerre! la guerre!" On the route this morning,
+we met with a small party of five or six soldiers returning to their
+homes; two of them had lost their right arms, and two others were lamed
+for life. They all agreed that they would never have wished for peace;
+and that even in their present miserable state they would fight. They
+were very fine stout fellows, about 40 years of age; but they had the
+looks of ruffians when narrowly examined.
+
+In the same inn the hostler, who had only fought one year, was as
+anxious for a continuation of peace as the others were for war. The wife
+of one of these soldiers gave a most lamentable description of the
+horrors of the last campaign, and ended by praying for a continuation of
+the peace.
+
+At a little village near Montelimart (our lodging place to-night), we
+were accosted in very bad English by a good-looking young Frenchman,
+who, from our appearance, knew us to be English. He told us that he had
+been four years a prisoner at Plymouth; he complained of bad treatment,
+and abused both the English and England very liberally, saying that
+France was a much finer country. Poor fellow! in a prison-ship at
+Plymouth he had formed his opinion of England. He gave us some good
+hints about the price of provisions in this part of the country. Wine
+(the vin ordinaire) is here at six sous, or three-pence the bottle. I
+had been very much astonished (on ordering some wine for the soldiers in
+the morning), to find that I had only ten sous to pay for each bottle.
+
+The country through which we passed to-day is rather more interesting,
+with a considerable variety of hill and dale, wood and water, but the
+soil is still a miserable gravel. Both to-day and yesterday we observed
+that the fields on each side of the road were planted with clumsy cropt
+trees, somewhat like fruit-trees. We could not make out what these were
+until to-day, when we learnt that they were mulberry trees, and that
+this was a silk country. The trees are of the size of our orchard
+trees; their branches, under the thickness of an inch, are all lopped
+off, and from the wounds thus made, spring up the tender young branches
+which produce the leaves. The trees have a most unnatural appearance
+from this cause. Under these the fields here are ploughed for a most
+wretched crop of wheat. The ploughs miserably constructed, but with
+wheels.
+
+This part of the country abounds with mule, which are used in carriages,
+carts, waggons, ploughs, &c. These animals are of a remarkable size
+here. The roads, ever since we left Lyons, excepting where we met with a
+hundred or two hundred yards of pavement, have been uniformly bad.
+To-day, however, we made out about 33 miles between six and five
+o'clock. This town of Montelimart is celebrated for one manufacture
+only, viz. a sort of cake made of almonds and white sugar, called
+Nagaux. This article is sent from this place all over France!------
+Distance 33 miles--to Montelimart.
+
+* * *
+
+Our journey to-day (_Friday_ the 24th) though rather more rapid, was not
+by any means comfortable. The country hereabout has a great want of
+milk and butter;--not a cow to be seen. The soil is still to appearance
+wretchedly poor, yet it gives a rich produce, in grapes, figs, olives,
+and mulberry leaves, for the silk worms. The wine (vin ordinaire) sells
+here at six sous the bottle; it is poor in quality, yet by no means
+unpalatable. The roads continue as bad as ever, rather worse indeed, for
+the thin creamy mud has become thick doughy clay.
+
+We did not arrive at Orange till half past five, but were fortunate in
+finding a civil reception at the Palais Royal, the first inn on entering
+the town. We met with no adventures to-day of any kind. The language of
+the people has now become completely unintelligible; it is a Patois of
+the most horrible nature. Many of the better sort of people among the
+peasants, are able to speak French with you, but where they have only
+their own dialect, you are completely at a loss. I had conceived, that
+there would be no more difference between French and Patois, than
+between the better and the lower dialects of Scotch and English; but the
+very words are here changed: A carter asked the landlord with whom we
+were conversing, for a [8]"Peetso morcel du bosse,"--_"petit morceau du
+bois."_ The landlord, a respectable-looking man, gave us a good deal of
+news regarding the state of the country. He says, that the people in the
+south are all anxious for peace, and that those in France, who wish for
+war, are those who have nothing else to live on; that nobody with a
+house over his back, and a little money, desires to have war again.
+
+The people here seem to amuse themselves with a perpetual variety of
+reports. The story to-day is, that Alexander has declared his intention
+of sending 60,000 men to Poland, to take possession of that country for
+himself; and that Talleyrand would not hear of such a thing. The
+villages that we passed to-day have a greater appearance of desolation
+than any we have yet seen. Scarce a house which does not seem to be
+tumbling to pieces, and those which we were unlucky enough to enter,
+were as dirty and uncomfortable inside as they appeared without. On
+entering the town, or rather at a little distance from the town of
+Orange, we saw a beautiful triumphal arch, said to have been raised to
+commemorate the victories of Marius over the Cimbri. The evening was
+too gloomy for us to observe in what state of preservation the sculpture
+is now, but the architecture is very grand. To-morrow we breakfast at
+Avignon. But alas, the weather will not permit of our visiting
+Vaucluse.----Distance 39 miles--to Orange.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Orange at half past six. Our road to-day
+lay through the same species of country, to which we have been condemned
+for four days, producing vines, olives, and mulberries; the soil is to
+all appearance a most wretched one for corn--gravel and stones. The
+roads have, ever since our leaving Lyons, been very bad. After breakfast
+at Avignon, we proceeded to see the ruins of the church of Notre Dame.
+There are now remaining but very few vestiges of a church; the ground
+formerly enclosed by the church, is now formed into a fruit garden, and
+a country house has been built on the ruins. The owner of this house
+wishes to let it, and hearing that a friend of ours was in need of a
+house, he offered it to him for two hundred a-year. The house was such
+as one could procure near London for about L.80, and such as we ought to
+have in France for L.20. But the French do really think, that the
+English will give any sum they ask, and that every individual is a kind
+of animated bag of money.
+
+The owner of the house was, to appearance, a broken-down gentleman; he
+had been ordered to Marseilles by his physician for an affection of the
+lungs; yet he strongly recommended the climate of Avignon. For my own
+part, I think the situation is too low and windy to be healthy. The town
+is one of the cleanest we have seen, and there are some excellent houses
+in it; of the rent we could not well judge from the account of this
+gentleman. We went through his garden, and were by him shewn the spot
+under which the tomb of Laura is now situated. A small cypress tree had
+been planted by the owner of the garden to mark the spot. He had heard
+the story of Laura, and recollected many particulars of it; but still he
+had not been at the pains to have the spot cleared, and the tomb exposed
+to view. To any one who was acquainted with the story of Petrarch, or
+who had perused his impassioned effusions, the dilapidation of this
+church, and the barbarous concealment of Laura's tomb, were most
+mortifying circumstances. But, neither the memory of Laura, nor of the
+brave Crillon, whose tomb is also here, had any effect in averting the
+progress of the revolutionary barbarians. The tomb of Crillon is now
+only to be distinguished by the vestiges of some warlike embellishments
+in the wall opposite which it was situated. There is a large space now
+empty in the midst of these ornaments, from which a large marble slab
+had lately been taken out. On this slab, the owner of the garden said,
+an inscription, commemorating the virtues of Crillon, had been engraved.
+A small stone, with his arms very beautifully engraved, was shewn us in
+the garden. I could not leave the garden without stealing a branch from
+the cypress which shaded Laura's tomb.
+
+Through this garden runs the rivulet of Vaucluse. Its course is through
+the town of Avignon; where we remained for three hours, and then
+continued our journey; but the day was far advanced, and by the evening
+we only arrived at a wretched, little inn called Bonpas. We were here
+told that we could have no lodging. Luckily for us the moon was up, and
+very clear; we therefore pushed on for Orgon, which, although said in
+the post-book to be two posts and a half from Bonpas, we reached in
+about an hour and a half. On our arrival we were fortunate enough to
+find lodging; and had scarcely seated ourselves in our parlour, when the
+people told us, that last night the mail had been robbed, and both the
+postillion and conducteur killed on the spot,----Distance 42 miles--to
+Orgon.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, the 26th,--We left Orgon, as usual, at six o'clock, and
+travelled before breakfast to Font Royal, a distance of 11 miles. Here
+the unfortunate _conducteur_ of the mail was lying desperately wounded;
+the surgeon, however, expected him to live. The postmaster here was not
+well satisfied with the conduct of the soldiers or gens-d'armes who
+attended the mail. The robbers were only four in number, and the
+attendants, viz. the postillion, conducteur and gens-d'armes, he
+thought, ought to have been a match for them. The robbers were
+frightened off while searching for the money, and fled without taking
+any thing of consequence.
+
+It is a very bad arrangement which they have in France, of sending large
+sums of money in gold and silver by the mail; for it holds out a much
+stronger inducement than would otherwise be given to the robbers. The
+mail, in France, is a very heavy coach, and has only three horses. The
+roads to-day were worse than any we have yet passed; and the country,
+for the first part of our journey, is as dull and insipid as it is
+possible to conceive. The soil most wretched, but still producing great
+riches in olives, grapes, figs, and mulberries. The grapes are
+delightful, even now when almost out of season, and the wine made from
+them is very fine. Within a mile or two of Aix, (from the top of a steep
+descent over a very barren, and bleak hill), you are delighted with the
+most complete change in the scene: In a moment, an extensive valley,
+highly cultivated, opens on the view. It is divided into a beautiful
+variety of vineyards, wheat fields, gardens, plantations of olives and
+figs, and is enclosed by hedge-rows of almond and mulberry trees. Round
+the valley rise a succession of romantic hills, covered with woods, and
+forming a fine conclusion to the view. It was altogether an enchanting
+picture. If this is the case in winter, what must it be in summer? The
+town of Aix, situated in this valley, is, as far as we have seen, the
+cleanest, neatest, and most comfortable-looking town in France--we are
+as yet all delighted with it; but when we shall have seen it for a day
+or two, I shall be better able to give an account of it.----Distance 33
+miles--to Aix.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+RESIDENCE AT AIX, AND JOURNEY TO BOURDEAUX.
+
+
+MONDAY, the 27th.--Having been employed the whole day in searching for
+furnished lodgings, I had no time to ride about and see the town. I
+shall describe it afterwards.--I saw, however, a little of the manners
+of some ranks of French society.
+
+After this, I went into the best coffeehouse in the town here, and sat
+down to read the newspapers. I found in it people of all
+descriptions--several of a most unprepossessing appearance, and others
+really like gentlemen. One of the best dressed of these last, decorated
+with the white cockade and other insignia, and having several rings of
+precious stones on his fingers, a watch, with a beautiful assortment of
+seals and other trinkets, was playing at Polish drafts, with an officer,
+also apparently a gentleman. I entered into conversation with him; and
+was surprised at his almost immediately offering me his watch, trinkets,
+and rings for sale. Still I thought this might arise from French
+manners: I had not a doubt he was a gentleman.--How great was my
+surprise, when a gentleman from the other side of the room called him by
+name, and bid him bring a cup of coffee and a glass of liqueur--My
+friend was one of the waiters of the coffeehouse. Such is the mixture of
+French society--such is the effect of citizenship.
+
+Our landlord, Mr A----, keeps a retail shop for toys, perfumery,
+cutlery, and all manner of articles. I did not think that we had given
+him any encouragement on our first arrival; but he is now become a pest
+to us: he honours us with his company at all hours, and comes and seats
+himself with our other acquaintances, of whatever rank they may be. I
+have been forced at last to be rude to him, in never asking him to sit
+down when any one is with us. _The physician shakes him by the hand--so
+does the banker_. When I had purchased my horse, our banker spoke to a
+little mean-looking body, a paper-maker, to buy some corn and hay for
+it. I was astonished when the banker ended his speech by an
+affectionate[9] "_Adieu, a revoir a souper_." I am told, however, that
+this mixture of ranks, and this condescension on the part of superiors,
+is only practised at times, and to serve a purpose; and that, although
+the nobleman will sit down in the kitchen of an inn, and converse
+familiarly with the servants there, and though he will sit down in a
+shop, and prattle with the Bourgeoise, yet he keeps his place most
+proudly in society, inviting and receiving only his equals and
+superiors. The familiarity of all ranks with their own servants is most
+disgusting; but, from their poverty, the higher classes must condescend.
+
+Yesterday evening, I had an interesting conversation with Mr L. B. an
+intelligent and well informed man, of good family, eminent in his
+profession, and high in the opinion of all the society here; he is a
+devoted royalist. Among other interesting anecdotes which he related, I
+can only recollect these:
+
+Bonaparte had got into some scrape at Toulon, where he was well known as
+a bad and troublesome character; he was arrested, and put under a guard
+commanded by a near relation of Mr L. B. Barras, then at the height of
+his power in Paris, not knowing what to do with some of his royalist
+enemies, sent for Bonaparte, and proposed to him to collect a body of
+troops, and to fire on the royalists. Jourdan, and many other officers
+were applied to, but refused so base an employment. Bonaparte willingly
+accepted it--acquitted himself to Barras's satisfaction, and Barras then
+offered him the command in Italy, provided he would marry his cast-off
+mistress, Madame Beauharnois. To this Bonaparte consented. Bonaparte's
+mother had been, about this time, turned out of the Marseilles Theatre,
+on account of her bad character; for it was well known, that she
+subsisted herself and one of her daughters on the beauty of her other
+daughter. Shortly after Bonaparte's appointment to the Italian army, the
+same magistrate (the Mayor of Marseilles), who had formerly turned out
+Madame Bonaparte, perceived her again seated in one of the front boxes;
+he went up to her, and turned her out. She immediately wrote to her son,
+and the poor mayor was dismissed. This anecdote is, I find, mentioned by
+Goldsmith, who refers, in proof of its truth, to the newspapers of the
+time, in which the conduct, and sentence of the mayor are fully
+discussed.
+
+Bonaparte, extremely dissipated himself, would yet often correct any
+propensities of that kind in his relations. Pauline, the Princess
+Borghese, had formed an attachment for a very handsome young Florentine;
+he was one night suddenly surprised by Bonaparte's emissaries, put into
+a carriage, and removed to a great distance, with orders not to return.
+
+One of Bonaparte's relations had formed an attachment to Junot, who was
+one of the handsomest men in France; Junot was immediately after sent to
+Portugal, and upon his defeats there, he was disgraced publicly by
+Bonaparte, and killed himself, it was believed, in a fit of despair.
+
+The Princess Borghese, though vain, fond of dress, of extravagance, and
+of pleasure of every sort, whether honest or otherwise, has yet a good
+heart. A cousin of Mr L. B.'s was ordered to join the Garde d'Honneur:
+One of the last and most cruel acts of Bonaparte, was the constitution
+of this corps, which was meant to receive the young men of noble or rich
+families. The mother and relations of this young man were inconsolable,
+and the sum of money which would have been required as a ransom, was
+more than they could give; for Bonaparte, well knowing that the better
+families would rather pay than allow of their sons serving in his guard,
+had made the price of ransom immense. In their distress, they applied to
+Mr L. B., who had been at one time of service to the Princess Borghese
+in his legal capacity, and he paid a visit to the Princess. She received
+him most kindly, but told him that Bonaparte strictly forbade her
+interfering in military matters; that she would willingly apply for the
+situation of a prefect for Mr L. B. but could be of no service to his
+relation. She was, however, at last prevailed on; she wrote most warmly
+to her friends, and in three or four days the young man was sent back to
+his happy family.
+
+The French here date Bonaparte's downfall from the time when he first
+determined on attacking the power of the Pope. They say that this attack
+and the Spanish War, were both contrary to the advice of Talleyrand. In
+a conversation which took place between the Emperor Alexander and
+Napoleon, Alexander represented his own power as superior to Napoleon's,
+because he had no Pope to, controul him; and Bonaparte then replied,
+that "he would shew him and the world that the Pope was nobody."
+
+Our conversation turned on the difference between the penal codes of
+France and England. The French code, as revised, and, in many parts,
+formed by Napoleon, is much more mild than ours. There are not more than
+twelve crimes for which the punishment is death. In England, according
+to Blackstone, there are 160 crimes punished by death; on these
+subjects, I shall afterwards write more fully when I have received more
+information. Mr L. B. related a curious anecdote, from which the
+abolition of torture is said to have been determined.
+
+A judge, who had long represented the folly of this method of trial,
+without any success, had recourse to the following stratagem:--He went
+into the stable at night, and having taken away two of his own horses,
+he had them removed to distance. In the morning his coachman came
+trembling to inform him of the theft. He immediately had him confined.
+He was put to the torture, and, unable to bear the agony, he said that
+he had stolen the horses. The judge immediately wrote to the King, and
+informed him, that he himself had removed the horses. The man was
+pardoned, and the judge settled a large pension on him. The subject of
+the torture was considered, and the result was its abolition.
+
+I found that the opinions as to some parts of their criminal
+jurisprudence in France, were the same as are entertained on the same
+subject in England. Mr L. B., who has had occasion professionally to
+attend many criminal trials, is of opinion, that in this country,
+terrible punishments ought to be avoided, or at least performed in
+private. It is generally thought, that the horror of these punishments
+deters the robber and murderer, and has a good effect on the multitude;
+but I am afraid, said Mr L. B., that the multitude compassionate the
+sufferer, and think the laws unjust: and experience shews, that
+punishments, however horrid, do not deter the _hardened_ criminal. My
+father, said he, filled the situation of judge in his native city. A
+very young man, son of his baker, was convicted before the court, and
+condemned to die, for robbery with murder. After sentence, my father
+visited him, and asked him how he had been led to commit such a crime?
+Since I was a child, said the boy, I have always been a thief. When at
+school, I stole from my school-fellows,--when brought home, I stole from
+my father and mother. I have long wished to rob on the high-way; the
+fear of death did not prevent me. The worst kind of death is the rack,
+but by going to see every execution, I have learnt to laugh even at the
+rack. When young, it alarmed me, but habit has done away its terrors.
+
+Mr L. B. is certainly a man of gentlemanly manners, and of much general
+information. He is received at Aix in the first society of the old
+nobility; and was, I afterwards found, reckoned a model of good
+breeding, and yet, (which, in the present condition of French manners,
+is by no means uncommon), I have frequently witnessed him, in general
+company, introducing topics, and employing expressions, which, in our
+country, would not have been tolerated for a moment, but must have been
+considered an outrage to the established forms of good breeding.
+
+The day after our conversation with Mr L. B. we received a visit from
+the daughter of a Scotch friend, who is married to one of the first
+counsellors here. We returned home with her to hear some music. We were
+received in a very neat and very handsomely furnished house. The mother
+and daughter appeared to us polite and elegant women. But I was
+astonished to observe, seated on a sofa near them, a young man, whose
+costume, contrasted with the ease and confidence of his manners, gave me
+no small surprise. He wore an old torn great coat, a Belcher
+handkerchief about his neck, a pair of, worn-out military trowsers,
+stockings which had once been white, and shoes down in the heel. What my
+astonishment to find this shabby looking object was a brother of the
+counsellor's, and a correct model of the morning costume of the French
+noblemen!
+
+From Mr L. B. I learnt, that the worst land in Provence, when well
+cultivated, produces only three for one. The common produce of tolerably
+good ground, is from five to seven for one. The greatest produce known
+in Provence is ten for one. But for this, the best soils are weeded, and
+plenty of manure used. Our banker's account of the soil here is more
+favourable; but I am doubtful whether he is a farmer. Mr L. B. has a
+farm, and superintends it himself.
+
+I had the good fortune to attend a trial, which had excited much
+interest here. In the conscription which immediately preceded the
+downfall of Bonaparte, it appears, that the most horrid acts of violence
+and tyranny had been committed. People of all ranks, and of all ages,
+had been forced at the point of the bayonet to join the army. Near
+Marseilles, the _gens-d'armes_, in one of the villages, after exercising
+all kinds of cruelty, had collected together a number of the peasantry,
+and were leading them to be butchered. The peasants, in Provence, are
+naturally bold and free. The party contrived to escape, and all but one
+man hid themselves in the woods. This poor fellow was conducted alone;
+his hands in irons. His comrades lay in wait for the party who were
+carrying him away, and in the attempt to deliver him, three of the
+gens-d'armes were killed. The unfortunate conscript was only released to
+die of his wounds. Three of his comrades were seized, and indicted to
+stand trial for the murder of the gens-d'armes.
+
+I judged this a most favourable opportunity of ascertaining the public
+feeling, and attended the trial accordingly. The court was a special
+one, for this is one of the subjects which Bonaparte did not trust to a
+jury. It was composed of five civil and three military members. The
+forms of proceeding were the same as I have fully noticed in a
+subsequent chapter,--the same minute interrogations were made to the
+unhappy prisoners--the same contest took place between these and the
+Judges. One was acquitted, and the other two found guilty of "_meurtre
+volontaire, mais sans premeditation_."--Voluntary, but unpremeditated
+murder. These two were condemned to labour for life, but a respite was
+granted, and an appeal made to the King in their behalf. I was not
+disappointed in the ebullitions of public feeling which many of the
+incidents of the trial called forth. Mr L. B. and another young advocate
+pleaded very well. They both touched, though rather slightly, on the
+state of the country; but it was left to Mr Ayeau, the most celebrated
+pleader in criminal trials, and a zealous royalist, to develope the real
+condition of France, at the time of this last conscription. His speech
+was short, but I think it was the most energetic, and the most eloquent
+I ever heard. He began in an extraordinary manner, which at once shewed
+the scope of his argument, and secured him the attention of every one
+present--"Gentlemen, if that pest of society, from whom it has pleased
+God to release us, was a usurper and a tyrant, it was lawful to resist
+him. If Louis the XVIII. was our legitimate prince, it was lawful to
+fight for him." He then shewed, in a most ingenious argument, that the
+prisoners at the bar had done no more than this. Some parts of his
+speech were exceedingly beautiful. He ended by saying, that "he dared
+the Judges to condemn to death those who would have died for "_Louis le
+desiré_."--It is generally thought here, that they will all be
+pardoned.
+
+The situation of the town of Aix, and the scenery in the valley, is
+truly beautiful. It is now the middle of December, yet the air is even
+warmer, I think, than with us in summer. We sit with open windows, and
+when we walk, the heat of the sun is even oppressive. The flowers in the
+little gardens in the valley are in full bloom; and the other day we
+found the blue scented violet, and observed the strawberries in blossom.
+The fields are quite green, and the woods still retain their variegated
+foliage. When the mistral (a species of north-west wind, peculiar to
+this climate), blows, it is certainly cold; but since our arrival, we
+have only twice experienced this chilling interruption to the general
+beauty and serenity of our weather. The scenery in the interior of the
+hills which surround the valley, is very romantic; and the little grassy
+paths which lead through them, are so dry, that our party have had
+several delightful expeditions into the hills. Many of our French
+friends, although probably themselves no admirers of the country,
+profess themselves so fond of English society, that they insist upon
+accompanying us; and it is curious to witness the artificial French
+manners, and the noisy volubility of French, tongues introduced into
+those retired and beautiful scenes, which, in our own country, we
+associate with the simplicity and innocence of rural life.
+
+Amidst these peaceful and amusing occupations, the easy tenor of our
+lives gliding on from day to day, interrupted by no variety of event,
+except the entertaining differences occasioned by foreign manners and a
+foreign country; we were surprised one morning by the entrance of our
+landlord, who came into our parlour with a face full of anxiety, and
+informed us, that Napoleon had landed at Cannes from Elba, and had
+already, with five hundred men, succeeded in reaching Grace. Mr L. B.
+soon came in and confirmed the report. Although certainly considerably
+alarmed at this event, especially as the greater portion of our party
+was composed of ladies, I could not help feeling, that we were fortunate
+in having an opportunity thus offered of ascertaining the state of
+public opinion, and the true nature of the political sentiments of that
+part of the country in which we are at present residing; for we are here
+at Aix, within twenty-five miles of the small town where Napoleon has
+landed.
+
+I shall first detail the circumstances under which this singular event
+took place; afterwards attempt to give some idea of the effects
+produced by it on the multitude. On the 1st of March 1815, Napoleon
+landed near Cannes, in the gulf of Juan. His first step was, to dispatch
+his Aide-de-Camp, Casabianca, with another officer and 25 men, to ask
+admittance into the Fort of Antibes; admitted into the Fort, they
+demanded its surrender to Bonaparte. The Governor paraded his garrison,
+and having made them swear allegiance to their Sovereign, he secured the
+rebels. Casabianca leaped from the wall and broke his back. In the
+meantime, Napoleon, finding his first scheme fail, marched straight to
+Grace, with between 700 and 800 men. He there encamped with his small
+force on the plain before the town, and summoned the mayor to furnish
+rations for his men; to which the mayor replied; that he acknowledged no
+orders from any authority except Louis XVIII. This conduct was the more
+worthy of praise, as the poor mayor had not a soldier to support him.
+The Emperor then attempted to have printed a proclamation in writing,
+signed by him, and counter-signed by General Bertrand, in which, among
+other rhodomontades, he tells the good people of France, that he comes
+at the call of the French nation, who, he knew, could not suffer
+themselves to be ruled by the Prince Regent of England, in the person of
+Louis XVIII.--The printer refused to print it. Napoleon proceeded from
+Grace to Digne, from Digne to Sisteron, and from Sisteron to Gap, where
+he slept on the 6th of March. In all the villages, he endeavoured,
+apparently without success, to inflame the minds of the people, and
+strengthen, by recruits, his small body of troops. He has, as yet, got
+no one to join him; but, on the other hand, he has met with no
+resistance. This day, the 8th, he must meet with three thousand men,
+commanded by General Marchand. It is thought, that if these prove true
+to their allegiance, he will make good his way to Lyons; but if, on the
+contrary, they oppose him, he is ruined. The commotion excited in Aix,
+by this news, is not to be conceived. The hatred and detestation in
+which Bonaparte is held here, becomes, I think, more apparent as the
+danger is more imminent. With a very few exceptions, all ranks of people
+express these sentiments. The national guard were immediately under
+arms, and entreated their commanding officer and the civil authorities,
+to permit them to go in pursuit of the ex-Emperor. Unfortunately the
+chiefs were not well agreed on the measures which ought to be adopted.
+From the excessive _sang froid_ with which Massena conducted himself, I
+should not be surprised if there were some truth in the report which was
+current here, that he had intelligence of the whole scheme, and kept
+back, in order that he might join Bonaparte. The first and second day,
+nothing was done; on the 3d, the 83d regiment was dispatched in pursuit
+from Marseilles. I accompanied them for four miles, during which, they
+had made two short halts. I had an opportunity of talking with a number
+of the men: they were certainly liberal in their abuse of the
+ex-Emperor; but several of them remarked, that it _was a hard thing to
+make them fight against each other_. The French here are all of opinion,
+that the troops of the line are not to be trusted. Like all other
+soldiers, they long for war, and as they would be more likely to have
+war Under Napoleon, than under Louis XVIII. I have little doubt they
+would join him. On the first news, the whole society of Aix were in the
+deepest affliction--the men agitated and disturbed--the women and
+children weeping. Each hour these feelings changed, for every hour there
+was some new report. The French believe every thing, and though each
+report belied the other, I saw no difference in the credit attached to
+them. There is no newspaper published in Aix, and the prefect, who is a
+person much suspected, has taken no steps to give the public correct
+information, but allows them to grope, in the dark; they have invented
+accordingly the most ridiculous stories, converting hundreds into
+thousands, and a few fishing boats and other small craft, into first a
+squadron of Neapolitans, and then a fleet of English ships. This report
+of the English ships is, I am sorry to say, still current, and the
+English are looked on with an evil eye by the lower orders. Even among
+our more liberal friends, there were some who asked me, what interest
+the English could have in letting him escape? After some cool reasoning,
+however, they acknowledged the folly of this story. The King is
+universally blamed for employing, in the most responsible situations,
+the Generals attached to Napoleon. The populace declare, that Soult, the
+Minister of War, is at the bottom of this attempt. Now, that one can
+reason on the matter, and that the impression of the magnanimity which
+dictated the conduct of the allied Powers to Napoleon, is somewhat
+diminished, it must be allowed, that there is some sense in the remark,
+that it was folly to dismiss him to Elba, with all the appointment,
+"pomp, and circumstance" of a little Sovereign, instead of confining him
+in a prison, or leaving him no head to plan mischief. The people affirm
+here, that this was done purposely by the English, to keep France in
+continual trouble.
+
+_15th_.--All possibility of continuing this little Journal is precluded
+by the alarming progress of Napoleon, and the consequent necessity of
+taking immediate steps for our departure from this country. The
+ex-Emperor is every day making rapid strides to the capital; and we have
+to-day intelligence that it is believed the troops in Lyons are
+disaffected. I have now given up all hope, for I see plainly that every
+thing is arranged--not a blow has been struck. The soldiers have every
+where joined him, and there cannot be a doubt that he will reign in
+France. He may not, indeed, reign long; for it is to be hoped that the
+English will not shut their eyes, or be deceived by the fabricated
+reports of the journals--It is to be hoped that the allied Powers are
+better acquainted with the character of Napoleon than the too-good Louis
+XVIII. In the mean time, it is high time for us to be off; and I think
+we shall take the route of Bourdeaux. This unfortunate town (Aix), is
+now a melancholy spectacle; for all the thinking part believe that the
+cause of the Bourbons is lost. Our poor landlord, a violent royalist,
+has just been with us. He affirms that he could have predicted all this;
+for when he sold the white cockades to the military, they often said,
+[10]"Eh bien; c'est bon pour le moment, mais cela ne durera pas long
+temps."--Poor man, he is in perfect agony, and his wife weeps all day
+long. If all the people of France thought as well as those at Aix,
+Napoleon would have little chance of success; but alas, I am much afraid
+he will find more friends than enemies.
+
+The whole town is still in the greatest confusion. The national guard,
+amongst whom were many of our friends, were not allowed to march till
+the seventh day after the landing of Napoleon. By day-break, we were
+awoke by the music of the military bands, and saw, from the windows, the
+different companies, headed by their officers, many of whose faces were
+familiar to us, march out, seemingly in great spirits. It was a
+melancholy sight to us. There was something in our own situation; placed
+in a country already involved in civil commotion, finding our poor
+French friends, whose life seemed before this to be nothing but one
+continued scene of amusement, now weeping for the loss of their sons and
+husbands and brothers, who had marched to intercept Napoleon, and
+involved in uncomfortable uncertainty as to our future plans, which for
+some time made every thing appear gloomy and distressing. The interval
+between the 8th and the 12th has been occupied by a constant succession
+of favourable and unfavourable reports; gloomy conjectures and fearful
+forebodings, have, however, with most people here, formed the prevailing
+tone of public opinion. The report which was, a few days ago, circulated
+here, that the escape of the ex-Emperor was a premeditated plan,
+invented and executed by the English, gains ground every day. It is
+completely credited by the lower classes here; and such is the enmity
+against the English, that we are now obliged to give up our country
+walks, rather than encounter the menacing looks and insulting speeches
+of the lower orders. To-day is the 8th, and we are in a state of the
+most extreme anxiety, waiting for the arrival of a courier. In this
+unfortunate country, owing to the imperfection of the system of posts,
+public news travel very slowly; and in proportion to the scarcity of
+accurate information, is the perplexing variety of unfounded reports.
+The prefect of Aix has just been here to tell us that as yet there
+appears to be nothing decided; but that upon the whole, things look
+favourably for the Bourbons. Bonaparte, he informs us, slept at Gape on
+Sunday, and dispatched from that town three couriers with different
+proclamations. Not a man joined him, and it is said he left Gape enraged
+by the coolness of his reception. In the course of the day, another mail
+from Gape has arrived, but still brings no intelligence, which looks as
+if this unfortunate business would be speedily decided. Monsieur has
+arrived at Lyons, and intends, we hear, to proceed to Grenoble. Last
+night it was quite impossible for us to sleep. The crowds in the
+streets, and the confusion of the mob who parade all night, expecting
+the arrival of a new courier, creates a continual uproar. During the
+night, we heard our poor landlady weeping; and we found out next morning
+that her husband had been called off in the night to join the national
+guard, which had marched in pursuit of the ex-Emperor.
+
+_Friday_, the 10th.--Still no decisive intelligence has arrived. Every
+thing, it is said, looks well, but there is a mystery and stillness
+about the town to-day which alarms us.
+
+_Saturday_, the 11th.--We have this day received from Mr L. B., who
+marched with the national guard, a very interesting letter from
+Sisteron. The crisis, which will determine the result of this last
+daring adventure of the ex-Emperor, seems to be fast approaching. Our
+friend tells us all as yet looks well. Bonaparte is surrounded and
+hemmed in to the space of two leagues by troops marching from all sides.
+These, however, how strong soever they may be, appear to maintain a
+suspicious kind of inaction, and he continues his progress towards
+Grenoble. Every thing depends on the conduct of the troops there, under
+General Marchand. Their force is such, that if they continue firm, his
+project is ruined. On the contrary, if their allegiance to the Bourbons
+is but pretended, and if their attachment to their old commander should
+revive, it is to be dreaded that this impulse will have an irresistible
+effect upon the troops; and if Marchand's division joins him, all is
+irretrievably lost: He will be at the head of a force sufficient to
+enable him to dictate terms to Lyons, and the pernicious example of so
+great a body of troops will poison the allegiance of the rest of the
+army.
+
+_Sunday_, the 12th.--Our fears have been prophetic. We have heard again
+from Mr L. B. This letter is most melancholy; Marchand's corps have
+joined the ex-Emperor, and he is on his march to Lyons, the second town
+in the kingdom, with a force every day increasing. It is absolutely
+necessary now to form some decided plan for leaving this devoted
+country. Whether it will be better to embark from Marseilles or to
+travel across the country to Bourdeaux, is the question upon which we
+have not yet sufficient information to decide. We expect to hear
+to-morrow of an engagement between the troops commanded by the Prince
+D'Artois at Lyons, and the force which has joined Napoleon. Every moment
+which we now remain in this kingdom is time foolishly thrown away.
+Bonaparte may have friends in the sea-port towns; the organization of
+this last scheme may be, and indeed every hour proves, that it has been
+deeper than we at first imagined, and the possibility of escape may in a
+moment be entirely precluded.
+
+_Monday_, the 13th.--This has been a day of much agitation; a courier
+has arrived, and the intelligence he brings is as bad as possible. Every
+thing is lost. The Count d'Artois harangued his troops, and the answer
+they made, was a universal shout of _Vive l'Empereur_. The Prince has
+been obliged to return to Paris; Bonaparte has entered Lyons without the
+slightest opposition, and is now on his march to the capital. We have
+just been informed, that the Duc d'Angouleme is expected here this
+evening or to-morrow. The guarde nationale has been paraded upon the
+_Cours_, and a proclamation, exhorting them to continue faithful to the
+King, read aloud to the soldiers. We hear them rapturously shouting Vive
+le Roi; and they are now marching through the streets to the national
+air of Henrie Quatre. Every house has displayed the white flag from its
+windows.
+
+_Thursday_, the 16th.--We have determined now to run the risk of
+travelling across the country to Bourdeaux, trusting to embark from that
+town for England. I have visited Marseilles, and find that there are no
+vessels in that port; and in the present uncertain state of Italy, it
+would be hazardous attempting to reach Nice. Bonaparte, we hear, is near
+Paris, and is expected to enter that capital without opposition; but we
+now receive no intelligence whose accuracy can be relied on, as the
+couriers have been stopt, and all regular intercourse discontinued. The
+preparations, for the arrival of the Duc d'Angouleme, continued till
+this morning; and in the evening we witnessed his entry into Aix: It was
+an affecting sight. At the gate of the town, he got out of his carriage,
+mounted on horseback, and rode twice along the Cours, followed by his
+suite. The common people, who were assembled on each side of the street,
+shouted Vive le Roi, Vivent les Bourbons, apparently with enthusiasm.
+The attention of the Duke seemed to be chiefly directed to the regiments
+of the line, which were drawn up on the Cours. As he rode along, he
+leant down and seemed to speak familiarly to the common soldiers; but
+the troops remained sullen and silent. No cries of loyalty were heard
+amongst them--not a single murmur of applause. They did not even salute
+the Duke as he past, but continued perfectly still and silent. In the
+midst of this, we could hear the sobs of the women in the crowd, and of
+the ladies, who waved their handkerchiefs from the windows. As he came
+near the balcony where we and our English friends were assembled, we
+strained our voices with repeated cries of Vive le Roi. He heard us,
+looked up, and bowed; and afterwards, with that grateful politeness, the
+characteristic of the older school of French manners, he sent one of his
+attendants to say, that he had distinguished the English, and felt
+flattered by the interest they took in his affairs. Although it was
+positively asserted by our French friends here, that Marseilles was in
+the greatest confusion; and that on account of the prevalence of the
+report of the English having favoured the escape of Bonaparte, all our
+countrymen were liable to be insulted; I yet found the town perfectly
+tranquil. Massena, I heard, had sent for some troops from Toulon; and
+the 3000 national guards employ themselves night and day, in shouting
+_Vive le Roi_. We shall leave Aix to-morrow morning, taking the route to
+Bourdeaux.
+
+_Friday_, the 17th of April.--Our leaving Aix this morning was really
+melancholy. French friends, hearing of our approaching departure,
+flocked in to bid us farewell. They were in miserably low spirits,
+deploring the state of their unhappy country, weeping over the fate of
+their sons and husbands, who had marched with the national guard in
+pursuit of the ex-Emperor; and full of fears as to the calamities this
+might bring upon them. You are happy English, said they, and are
+returning to a loyal and secure country, and you leave us exposed to all
+the calamities of a civil war.
+
+After a long day's journey, we have at last arrived at Orgon, at seven
+in the evening. There has been little travelling on the road to-day. The
+country has nearly the same aspect as in November last. The only
+difference is, that the almond trees are in full blossom, and some few
+other trees, such as willows, &c. in leaf; the wheat is about half a
+foot to a foot high: The day was delightfully mild; and as we drove
+along, we met numberless groups of peasants who lined the road, and were
+anxiously waiting for their Prince passing by. The road was strewed with
+lilies, and the young girls had their laps filled with flowers as we
+passed. As we past, they knew us to be English, and shouted Vive le Roi.
+
+We are now in Languedoc, but as yet I cannot say that it equals, or at
+all justifies Mrs Radcliffe's description: Flat and insipid plains of
+_vignoble_ or wheat. However, there is here, as every where in France,
+no want of cultivation. Napoleon had commenced, and nearly finished, a
+very fine quay and buttresses between the two bridges of boats. That man
+had always grand, though seldom good views. The walls of the inn here
+were covered with a mixture of "Vive le Roi!" and "Vive Napoleon!" this
+last mostly scratched out. National guards in every town demanded our
+passport. These men and the gens-d'armes are running about in every
+direction. No courier from Paris arrived here these three days. This
+looks ill. The houses are better in appearance than in Provence. The
+country very productive: Potatoes the finest I have seen in
+France.----Distance 34 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 19th.--We left Nismes at six o'clock this morning, and
+breakfasted at Lunel, where they appear to be full of loyalty. It was a
+subject to us of much regret, that more time was not allowed us to
+examine a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, half of which is nearly
+entire, although the remaining part is quite ruinous. The troops in the
+town were drawn up on the parade, expecting the Duke d'Angouleme. We
+received a small printed paper from an officer on the road, containing
+the information last received from Paris, which secured us a good
+reception at the inn. The people were delighted to procure a piece of
+authentic intelligence, (a thing they seldom have); they flocked round
+us, and upon their entreaty, I gave them the paper to carry to the
+caffèe. In the inn we found a number of recruits for the army forming by
+the Duke d'Angouleme; it is said that he has already collected at Nismes
+nineteen hundred men, all volunteers. The country does not improve in
+romantic beauty as we advance in Languedoc; but what is better, the
+cultivation is very superior; large fields of fine wheat. There seems to
+be all over the south the same want of horned cattle; horses also are
+very scarce and very bad:--milk never to be had unless very early, and
+then in small quantity. No land wasted here. All the houses about
+Montpellier are better than near Aix, and we even saw some neat country
+seats, a circumstance almost unknown in all the parts of France where we
+have hitherto been. The olive trees are here much larger and finer than
+in Provence; but the country, although covered with olives, vines, and
+wheat, is flat, ugly, and insipid. The instruments of agriculture are
+even inferior to those in Provence, which last are at least a century
+behind England. The plough here is as rude as in Bengal, and is formed
+of a crooked branch of a tree shod with iron. As we approached near
+Montpellier, the appearance of the country began to display more
+beautiful features. The ground is more varied, the fields and meadows of
+a richer green, a distant range of hills closes in the view, and the
+olive groves are composed of larger and more luxuriant trees. Nearer to
+the town, the country is divided into small nursery gardens, which,
+although inferior to those in the environs of London, give an unusual
+richness to the landscape. We arrived at Montpellier at six o'clock, and
+from the crowd in the town, found much difficulty in procuring an hotel.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, 20th April.--We have better news to-day; letters from the Duke
+d'Angouleme announce that the whole conspiracy has been discovered, and
+that Soult (Ministre de Guerre) and several other generals have been
+arrested. In consequence of which, it is expected that the plans of the
+conspirators will be in a great measure defeated. The French change in a
+moment from the extreme of grief to the opposite, that of the most
+extravagant joy. To-day they are in the highest spirits;--but things
+still look very ill. No courier from Paris for these last four days. The
+ex-Emperor still marching uninterruptedly towards that city, yet no one
+can conceive that he will succeed, now that the King's eyes are
+open;--his clemency alone has occasioned all this--he would not consent
+to remove the declared friends of Napoleon.
+
+We passed this day at Montpellier; but were prevented by the intense
+heat of the sun from seeing as much of the environs as we could have
+wished. The town is old and the streets shabby; but the Peyroue is one
+of the most magnificent things I ever saw. It is a superb platform,
+which forms the termination of the Grand Aqueduct built by Louis XIV.
+and commands a magnificent extent of country. In front, the view is
+terminated by a long and level line of the Mediterranean. To the
+south-west the horizon is formed by the ridge of the Pyrenees; while, to
+the north, the view is closed in by the distant, yet magnificent summits
+of the Alps. Immediately below these extends, almost to the border of
+the Mediterranean, a beautiful _paysage_, spotted with innumerable
+country seats, which, seen at a distance, have the same air of neatness
+and comfort as those in England. At the end of this fine platform, is a
+Grecian temple, inclosing a basin, which receives the large body of
+water conveyed by the aqueduct, and which empties itself again into a
+wide basin with a bottom of golden-coloured sand. The limpid clearness
+of the water is beyond all description. The air, blowing over the basin
+from a plain of wheat and olives (evergreens in this climate), has a
+charming freshness. The Esplanade here is also a fine promenade,
+although the view which it commands is not so fine as that from the
+Peyroue. The manufactures of Montpellier are, verdigris, blankets and
+handkerchiefs; little trade going on. The climate is delightful, though
+now too warm for my taste. Every thing is much farther advanced here
+than at Aix. They have some very pretty gardens here, though nothing
+equal to what we see every day in England. The botanical garden is very
+small. We start to-morrow at six for Beziers, where we expect to find
+water carriage to Toulouse.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, 21st April.--We left Montpellier at five in the morning, and
+although the country round the town is certainly more beautiful than the
+greater part of Languedoc we have yet seen, it in a short time became
+very uninteresting; an extended plain, covered with uninclosed fields of
+wheat, and occasionally a plantation of olives. Before reaching Maize, a
+small town situated within a mile of the shore of the Mediterranean, we
+passed through a fine forest, the only considerable one we have seen in
+Languedoc. The road winded along the shore; the day was delightful, and
+as warm as with us in July; and the waters of the Mediterranean lay in a
+perfect calm, clear and still, and beautiful, under the light of a
+glorious sun. The general appearance of the country is certainly not
+beautiful. It improves much upon coming near Pezenas, where the fields
+are divided into green meadows, and interspersed with little gardens, in
+which, although it is now only April, the fruit trees are in full
+blossom, and giving to the view an uncommon beauty. The blossom of the
+pears, peach, and apple-trees, is, I think, richer than I ever saw in
+England. The season is not only much more advanced here than at Aix, but
+the warmth and mildness of the climate gives to the fields and flowers a
+more than common luxuriancy. Many of the meadows are thickly sown with
+the white narcissus, and the hedges, which form their inclosures, are
+covered with the deepest verdure, which is finely contrasted with the
+pink-flowers of the almond trees, rising at intervals in the hedge-rows.
+The wheat round Montpellier was now, in the middle of April, in the ear.
+We set off to-morrow at half-past five, in order to get into the _coches
+d'eau_ at Beziers before 12 (the hour of starting). Hitherto we have
+proceeded without the slightest molestation. The English, I am now
+thoroughly convinced, are not popular amongst the lower orders; but as
+we are the couriers of good news, we are at present well received. Could
+it be believed by an Englishman, that we, who travel at the miserable
+rate of 30 miles a-day, _should be the first to spread the news wherever
+we go_. The reason is, that we get the authentic news through our
+friends and bankers, and circulate it in the inns, instead of the
+ridiculous stories invented by those groping in ignorance. The feelings
+of the people seem excellent every where; the troops alone maintain a
+gloomy silence. The country, from Montpellier, is the same as hitherto,
+flat and insipid: but the crops are much farther advanced than in
+Provence. We had some fine peeps at the Mediterranean this morning. The
+town of Pezenas is prettily situated, and is surrounded by numbers of
+beautiful gardens, though on a small scale. All the fruit trees are here
+in blossom: Green peas a foot and a half high. The ploughs in this part
+of the country are more antiquated than any I have seen. The ploughing
+is very shallow; but nature does all in France.----Distance about 34
+miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, 22d.--Left Pezenas at half past five, and arrived to
+breakfast at half past nine at Beziers. We went to see the _coches
+d'eau_, described as _superbes_ and _magnifiques_ by our French friends.
+Their ideas differ from ours. It would be perfectly impossible for an
+English lady to go in such a conveyance; and few gentlemen, even if
+alone, would have the boldness to venture. The objections are: there is
+but one room for all classes of people; they start at three and four
+each morning; stop at miserable inns, and if you have heavy baggage, it
+must be shifted at the locks, which is tedious and expensive. Adieu to
+all our airy dreams of gliding through Languedoc in these _Cleopatrian
+vessels_. They are infested with an astonishing variety of smells; they
+are exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather; and they are filled
+with bugs, fleas, and all kinds of bad company. The country to-day,
+though still very flat, is much improved in beauty. Very fine large
+meadows, bordered with willows, but too regular. Bullocks as common as
+mules in the plough. Wheat far advanced, and barley, in some small
+spots, in the ear. I learnt some curious particulars, if they can be
+depended upon, concerning this conspiracy of Bonaparte from a Spanish
+officer, who had taken a place in our cabriolet. He says, that one of
+the chief means he has employed to create division in France, and to
+make himself beloved, has been by carrying on a secret correspondence
+with the Protestants, and persuading them that he will support them
+against the Catholics; and by representing the King as wishing to
+oppress them. To the army he has promised, that he will lead them again
+against the allied Powers, who have triumphantly said they have
+conquered them; this is a tender point with the French: At the present
+time, when the troops are deserting their King, and flying to the
+standard of the usurper, still even the most loyal among the people
+cannot bear the idea that the allies should assist in opposing him.
+
+We have continued with our coachman, and carry him on to Toulouse. He is
+an excellent fellow, has a good berlin, with large cabriolet before, and
+three of the finest mules I ever saw. He takes us at a round pace, from
+15 to 20 miles before breakfast, and the rest after it, making up always
+30 miles a-day. The pay for this equipage per mile is not much above a
+franc and a half. We have found it the most comfortable way of
+travelling for so large a party. He carries all our baggage, amounting
+to more than 400 pounds, without any additional expence. The country
+between Pezenas and Beziers, and between Beziers and Narbonne, is richer
+and more beautiful than any part of Languedoc which we have yet seen. It
+is divided into fields of wheat, which is now in the ear, divisions of
+green clover grass, meadows enclosed with rows of willows, and orchards
+scattered around the little villages. These orchards, which are now all
+in blossom, increase in number as you approach the town of Narbonne. We
+have enjoyed to-day another noble view of the distant summits of the
+Pyrenees, towering into the clouds.----Distance, 34 miles--to Narbonne.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday, 23d._--We left Narbonne at half past five, and have travelled
+to-day, through a country more ugly and insipid than any in the south;
+barren hills, low swampy meadows, and dirty villages. There is a total
+want of peasants houses on the lands; but still a very general
+cultivation. Ploughs, harrows, and other instruments, a century behind.
+Fewer vines now, and more wheat. At Moux, one of the police officers
+read out a number of proclamations, sent by the prefect of the
+department, exciting the people to exertions in repelling the usurper.
+The cries of "Vive le Roi" were so faint, that the officer harangued the
+multitude on their want of proper feeling. He did not, however, gain any
+thing. One of the mob cried out, that they were not to be forced to cry
+out "Vive le Roi." Wherever we have gone, I have heard from all ranks
+that the English have supported Bonaparte, and that they are the
+instigators of the civil war. In vain I have argued, that if it were our
+policy to have war with France, why should we have restored the
+Bourbons? Why made peace? Why wasted men and money in Spain? It is all
+in vain--they are inveterately obstinate.----Distance 39 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday, 24th._--We left Carcassone at seven, as we have but a short
+journey to-day. Arrived at Castelnaudry at half past five, and found the
+inn crowded with gentlemen volunteers for the cavalry. The volunteers
+are fine smart young men, and all well mounted. Their horses very
+superior to the cavalry horses in general. We passed a cavalry regiment
+of the line this morning, the 15th dragoons. Horses miserable little
+long-tailed Highland-like ponies, but seemingly very active. The whole
+country through which we have travelled since the commencement of our
+journey in France, is sadly deficient in cattle. We meet with none of
+these groupes of fine horses and cows, which delight us in looking over
+the country in England, in almost every field you pass. This want is
+more particularly remarkable in the south. The country to-day is the
+same; a total want of trees, and of variety of scenery of any kind. No
+peasants houses to be seen scattered over the face of the country; the
+peasantry all crowd into the villages.--Yet there is no want of
+cultivation. The situation of the lower classes is yet extremely
+comfortable. The girls are handsome, and always well drest. The men
+strong and healthy. The young women wear little caps trimmed with lace,
+and the men broad-brimmed picturesque-looking hats: both have shoes and
+stockings. The parish churches in this part of France are in a miserable
+condition. It is no longer here, as in England, that the churches and
+_Curès'_ houses are distinguished by their neatness. Here, the churches
+are fallen into ruins; the windows soiled, and covered with cobwebs. The
+order of the priesthood, from what I have seen, are, I should conceive,
+little respected.----Distance 29 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Castelnaudry at five o'clock, and have
+travelled to-day through a country, which, from Castelnaudry to
+Toulouse, is uniformly flat and bare, and uninteresting. We were
+surprised to-day by meeting on the road a party of English friends, who
+had set out for Bourdeaux, returning by the same road. They informed us,
+they had heard by private letters, that Bonaparte was at the gates of
+Paris, on which account they had returned, and were determined to pass
+into Spain. They told us, that the roads were covered by parties of
+English flying in every direction; and that all the vessels at Bourdeaux
+were said to have already sailed for England. It was, however,
+impossible for us now to turn back; and we continued our route to
+Bourdeaux with very uncomfortable feelings, anxious lest every moment
+should confirm the bad news, and put a stop to our progress to the
+coast, or that, when we arrived, we should find the sea-ports under an
+embargo. Near Toulouse, are seen a few country seats, which relieve the
+eye; but the town is old and ugly, and situated, to all appearance, in a
+swampy flat. We shall see more of it to-morrow. The road from
+Castelnaudry to this is very bad, the worst we have seen yet in the
+south of France; it has been paved, but is much broken up.----Distance
+41 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 26th.--It has become necessary now to change all our plans of
+travelling. Upon visiting our banker this morning, I received from him a
+full confirmation of the bad news--Napoleon is in Paris, and again
+seated on the throne of France. Our banker has procured for us, and
+another party, forming in all 29 English, a small common country boat,
+covered over only with a sail. In this miserable conveyance we embarked
+this afternoon at two, and arrived the first night at Maste. Our passage
+down the Garonne is most rapid, and as the weather is delightful, the
+conveyance is pleasant enough; but our minds are in such a state we
+cannot enjoy any thing. To-morrow I shall continue more connectedly.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, the 27th.--We are now gliding down the Garonne with the utmost
+rapidity and steadiness. The scene before us presents the most perfect
+tranquillity. The weather which we now enjoy is heavenly,--the air soft
+and warm,--and the sun shedding an unclouded radiance upon the glassy
+waters of the Garonne, in whose bosom the romantic scenery through which
+we pass, is reflected in the most perfect beauty. On each side, are the
+most lovely banks covered with hanging orchards, whose trees, in full
+blossom, reach to the brink of the river. We have passed several small
+villages very beautifully situated; and where we have not met with
+these, the country is more generally scattered with the cottages of the
+peasantry, which are seen at intervals, peeping through the woods which
+cover the banks. As our boat passes, the villagers flock from their
+doors, and place themselves in groups on the rocks which overhang the
+river, or crowd into the little meadows which are interspersed between
+the orchards and the gardens. At the moment in which I now write, the
+sun is setting upon a scene so perfectly still and beautiful, that it is
+impossible to believe we are now in the devoted country, experiencing,
+at this very hour, a terrible revolution; the most disastrous political
+convulsion, perhaps, which it has ever yet undergone. In former times,
+the changes from the tranquillity it enjoyed under a monarchial
+government, to the chaos of republicanism, and from that to the sullen
+stagnation of a firm-rooted military despotism, were gradual; they were
+the work of time. But the unbounded ambition of Bonaparte, after a
+series of years, had brought on his downfall, by a natural course of
+events, and France had begun to taste and to relish the blessings of
+peace. On a sudden, that fallen Colossus is raised again, and its dark
+shadow has over-spread the brightening horizon. Could it be credited,
+that within one short month, that man whom we conceived detested in
+France, should have journeyed from one extremity of that kingdom to
+another, without meeting with the slightest resistance? I say journeyed,
+for he had but a handful of men, whom, at almost every town, he left
+behind him, and he proceeded on horseback, or in his carriage, with much
+less precaution than at any former period of his life. France has now
+nothing to hope, but from the heavy struggle that will, I trust,
+immediately take place between her and the allied powers. It will be a
+terrible, but, I trust, short struggle, if the measures are prompt: but
+if he is allowed time to levy a new conscription; if even he has
+sufficient time to collect the hordes of disbanded robbers whom his
+abdication let loose in France, he possesses the same means of
+conducting a long war that he ever possessed. The idea so current in
+France, that this event will only occasion a civil war, is unworthy of a
+moment's attention. Every inhabitant in every town he passed, was said
+to be against him. We heard of nothing but the devoted loyalty of the
+national guards; but at Grenoble, at Lyons, and at Paris, was there
+found a man to discharge his musket? No! against a small number of
+regular and veteran troops, no French militia, no volunteers will ever
+fight, or if they do, it will be but for a moment; each city will yield
+in its turn.
+
+The country is improving; the banks, in many places, are beautiful; for
+some days past we have been in the country of wheat, but now we are
+again arrived among the vines. Very little commerce on this river,
+although celebrated as possessing more than any one in France. It
+reminds me of the state of commerce in India,--boats gliding down
+rapidly with the stream, and toiling up in tracking. The shape, also, of
+the boats is the same. We have this moment passed a boat full of
+English, and the sailors have shouted out, that the white flag is no
+longer flying at Bourdeaux. If the town has declared for the ex-Emperor,
+I dread to think of our fate.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, the 28th.--This morning, at three, I left my party, and took
+a very light gig, determined (as the news were getting daily worse, and
+the road full of English hurrying to Bourdeaux), to post it from Agen. I
+was attended by a friend. By paying the post-boys double hires, we got
+on very fast, and although, from their advanced age and infirmities, the
+generality of French conveyances will not suffer themselves to be
+hurried beyond their ordinary pace, this was no time to make any such
+allowances. We accordingly hurried on, and after having broke down four
+times, we arrived at Bourdeaux at six in the evening, a distance of more
+than a hundred miles; and were delighted to see the white flag still
+displayed from all the public buildings. The country from Agen to
+Bourdeaux is the richest I have seen in France, chiefly laid out in
+vines, dressed with much more care than any we have yet seen; many
+fields also of fine wheat, and some meadows of grass pasture. Every
+thing is much further advanced than in Languedoc, even allowing for the
+advance in the days we have passed in travelling. Barley not only in
+the ear, but some fields even yellowing. Bourdeaux is a noble town,
+though not so fine, I think, as Marseilles. We arrived just in time: a
+few hours later, and I should have found no passage.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_ morning, the 29th.--I have settled for the last
+accommodations to be had, viz. a small cabin in a brig, for which I pay
+L.130. The owner, like every other owner, is full of great promises; but
+in these cases, I make it a rule to believe only one half. Bourdeaux
+shews the most determined loyalty; but, alas! there are troops of the
+line in the town, and in the fort of Blaye. Instead of sending these
+troops away, and guarding the town by the national guards, they content
+themselves with giving dinners to each other, and making the drunken
+soldiers cry, "Vive le Roi!" In England, every thing is done by a
+dinner; perhaps they are imitating the English: but dinners will not do
+in this case; decided measures must be taken, or Bourdeaux will fall, in
+spite of its loyalty, and the noise it makes. The journal published
+here, of which I have secured most of the numbers, from Napoleon's
+landing to this day, is full of enthusiastic addresses:--The general
+commanding the troops to the national guards,--the national guards to
+the troops,--the mayor to his constituents,--the constituents to the
+mayor;--all this is well, but it will do nothing. Although every thing
+is yet quiet, I am determined to hurry our departure, for I do not think
+there is a doubt of the issue. Since I entered Bourdeaux, I have always
+thought it would yield on the first attack.
+
+_Thursday_, the 30th.--Things look very ill. The fort of Blaye has
+hoisted the tri-coloured flag. Thank heaven our vessel passed it to-day;
+we should otherwise probably have been fired upon. We go to Poillac,
+where we are to embark by land, as a party of English, who attempted to
+go by water, were stopt and made prisoners. The town of Bourdeaux is in
+a dead calm; the sounds of loyalty have ceased, and a mysterious silence
+reigns throughout the streets: I am sure all is not well. Suddenly after
+all this silence, there has been a most rapid transition to sentiments
+of the most devoted loyalty. This has been occasioned by a great
+entertainment given by the national guards to the troops of the line; so
+that I am afraid that although these regular soldiers of the regular
+army, when elated with wine, choose to be devoted loyalists, their
+political sentiments may undergo many different changes upon their
+return to sobriety. At present, the shout of Vive le Roi, from the
+different troops of the line and national guards which are patroling the
+streets, is loud and reiterated. Napoleon has sent to-day his addresses
+and declarations to Bourdeaux, but the couriers have been imprisoned,
+and the civil authorities have sworn to continue faithful to their King.
+This loyalty will be immediately put to the test, for Clausel is
+advancing to the walls. The Dutchess d'Angouleme passed through the
+streets, and visited the _casernes_ of the troops: Indeed her exertions
+are incessant. To her addresses the people are enthusiastic in their
+replies, but the troops continue, as I expected, sullen and silent; they
+answered, that they would not forget their duty to her, as far as not
+injuring her. I trust that she passed our hotel this evening for the
+last time, and that she has left Bourdeaux for England. Every individual
+in this city, the troops excepted, appears to hate and detest Napoleon
+as cordially as he detests them. They expect immediate destruction if he
+takes the town. Their commerce must be ruined; yet there is no
+exertion--nothing but noise. Vive le Roi is in every heart, but they
+are overawed by the troops; it costs nothing. Subscriptions, however,
+for arming the militia, go on slowly. They seem always to keep a sharp
+eye to their pockets, although, as far as shouting and bellowing is
+required, they are willing to levy any contribution on their lungs. The
+French are indeed miserably poor, but they are also miserably
+avaricious. There is nothing even approaching to national spirit; yet
+their prudence sometimes gets the better even of their economy. One
+instance, which I witnessed to-day, will shew the way in which a
+Frenchman acts in times like these: I was in a shop when one of the
+noblesse entered, bearing a subscription paper. He addressed the
+shopkeeper, saying, that he begged for his subscription, as he knew he
+was a royalist. I never _subscribe_ my name in times like these, said
+the cautious Frenchman, but I will give you some money. The gentleman
+entreated, urging, that respectable _subscriptions_, more than money,
+were wanted; but all in vain. The shopkeeper paid his ten shillings,
+saying, _he would always be the first to support his King_.
+
+I entered a bookseller's shop, and asked for the political writings of
+the day. The man looked me cautiously in the face, and said he had none
+of them. I happened to see one on the table, and asked him for it,
+telling him that I was an Englishman, and wished to carry them with me;
+he then bid me step in, and from hidden corners of the inner-shop, he
+produced the whole mass of pamphlets.--All this denotes that a change is
+immediately expected.
+
+This last night has been passed as might be expected, owing to the
+circumstances in which we were placed, in much agitation. Clausel is
+every moment advancing up the town. Every thing is in confusion. The
+troops declare they will not fire a shot. The national guards are
+wavering and undecided, and this moment (five in the morning) our
+coachman has knocked at our door to tell us that we cannot remain
+another moment safe in the town.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday_, the 31st.--We set off accordingly at sunrise, before any one
+was abroad in the street. Our coachman reported, that General Clausel
+had reached the gates, and that the national guard had been beat off. We
+have arrived, therefore, at the most critical moment, and may be
+grateful that we have escaped. The road between Bourdeaux and Poillac
+is very bad. Arrived at the inn at half way, we met with the Marquis de
+Valsuzenai, prefect of the town, who confirmed the bad news: We learnt
+from him, that at three in the morning of the 30th, the town had
+capitulated without a shot having been fired. Two men were killed by a
+mistake of the soldiers firing, upon their own officers; a miserable
+resistance! But it could not be otherwise, as no militia could long
+stand against regulars. Still I expected tumults in the streets--rising
+among the inhabitants--weeping and wailing. But no: the French are
+unlike any other nation, they have no energy, no principle. Miserable
+people! We arrived at Poillac just as it grew dark, and owing to the
+sullen insolence of our coachman, who was a complete revolutionist, and
+to his hatred for the English, which evinced itself the moment he found
+that Bourdeaux had capitulated, we found it difficult to get any thing
+like accommodation. I am happy to add, that this same fellow, meeting
+another party of English, and beginning to be insolent, an Irish
+gentleman, with that prompt and decisive justice which characterises his
+country, by one blow of his fist laid him speechless upon the pavement.
+
+Upon meeting the Prefect of Bourdeaux, between that town and the little
+sea-port Poillac, in disguise, and hurrying to the shore, he informed us
+that before leaving the city, he had fallen on his knees before the
+Dutchess d'Angouleme, to persuade her to embark for England, and had,
+after much entreaty, succeeded. That before setting out himself, he had
+sent her post-horses, and most anxiously expected her arrival, although
+he had doubts whether she would be permitted to leave the town. As we
+pursued our route, we passed the Chateau Margot. The Marquis, to whom it
+belonged, was watching on the road with his young daughter; and the
+moment our carriage came in sight, he rushed up in great agitation, and
+exclaiming, "Where is the Dutchess? Why does she not come. She must be
+concealed at my house to-night. There are troops stationed at a league's
+distance from this to prevent her escape." Then observing the fair
+complexion of one of the ladies of our party, he cried out, "It is the
+Dutchess, it is my beloved Princess. Oh! why have you no avant garde;
+you must not proceed." The poor old man was in a state of extreme
+agitation, and his daughter weeping. It was a few minutes before we
+could undeceive him, and his assurances that we should be stopt by the
+troops on the road, afforded us no very cheering prospect as we
+proceeded on our journey. No troops, however, appeared, and we arrived
+safely at Poillac at seven o'clock.
+
+The Dutchess did not appear that night; but early next morning, we were
+called to the window, by hearing a great bustle in the street. It was
+occasioned by the arrival of this unfortunate Princess. She had three or
+four carriages along with her, filled with her attendants, and was
+escorted by a party of the national guards. Their entry into Poillac
+formed a very mournful procession; she herself looked deadly pale,
+although seemingly calm and collected. We saw many of the officers of
+the national guard crowding round her with tears in their eyes. There
+was a little chapel close to where we were lodged, and while the other
+ladies went down to the frigate to prepare for the embarkation, we heard
+that the Dutchess herself had gone to mass. After we imagined that the
+service would be nearly concluded, two of the ladies of our party
+entered the chapel, and placed themselves near to where they knew she
+would pass. As she came near them, observing that they were English, and
+much affected, she held out her hand to them; one of them said, "Oh, go
+to our England, you will be cherished there." "Yes, yes," replied she,
+"I am now going to your country;" and when they expressed a wish that
+this storm would be quickly over, and that when she again returned to
+France it would be for lasting happiness. The Dutchess replied with an
+expression which was almost cheerful, "Indeed, I hope so." This was the
+last time that any of us saw her. There was then in her expression a
+look of sweet and tranquil suffering, which was irresistibly affecting.
+
+* * *
+
+We embarked, this morning, _Saturday_, the 1st, on board the William
+Sibbald, after a night of troubles. Most fortunately for me, I had not
+trusted entirely to the owner's word, and had provided three beds and
+some provisions; for the captain told us, he could not provide ship
+room, and neither mattress nor provision of any kind.----Here we are
+then, in no very comfortable circumstances, yet thankful to escape from
+this miserable country. There are others in much greater misery than we.
+The Count de Lynch, Mayor of Bourdeaux, his brother, and another
+relation, the General commanding the national guard, and four or five
+French fugitives, have been sent on board here, by the Consul and the
+English Captain of the frigate; and they have neither clothes, nor beds,
+nor victuals: they leave their fortunes and their families behind them.
+"Alas! what a prospect," one of them exclaimed to-day; "this is the
+third fortune Bonaparte has lost to me." The unfortunate Dutchess
+d'Angouleme is now safe on board the English frigate. On leaving
+Bourdeaux, the Dutchess printed an address to the inhabitants, stating
+the reasons of her leaving them, to prevent the town from becoming a
+scene of blood and pillage. Alas! she knows not her own countrymen; they
+would not fight an hour to save her life: yet it is not because they do
+not love her--she is adored--the whole family are adored. The good among
+the nation wish for peace, but the troops are for war, and they are
+all-powerful. It is unjust to say that France ought to be allowed to
+remain under Napoleon, as she has desired his return: the army chiefly
+have desired it, and plotted it. They burn for pillage and for revenge
+on the allies, who had humbled their pride. If the allies are not
+prompt, he will again be master of his former territory. Something might
+even yet be done at Bourdeaux by an English army.
+
+We are now in the mouth of the English channel, and in full hopes, that
+as our stock, of water and of patience is almost exhausted, the Captain
+will put us into the first English port. May God grant us soon the sight
+of an English inn, and an English post-chaise, and in a day we shall
+forget all our troubles.
+
+END OF THE JOURNAL.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+STATE OP FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON.
+
+
+To trace, with accuracy, the effects of the revolution and of the
+military despotism of Napoleon on the kingdom of France, it would be
+necessary to attend to the following subjects:--the state of
+commerce--wealth of the nation, and division of this wealth--the state
+of agriculture--the condition of the towns and villages--of the noblesse
+and their property--the condition of the lower ranks, namely, the
+merchants, tradesmen, artificers, peasants, poor, and beggars--the state
+of private and public manners--the dress of the people--their
+amusements--the state of religion and morality--of criminal delinquency
+and the administration of justice.
+
+But to treat all these different subjects, and to diverge into the
+necessary observations which they would naturally suggest, would form of
+itself a voluminous work. In order, however, to judge fairly of the
+state of France, and of the character of the people, we must select and
+make observations on a few of the most material points. In my Journal,
+which accompanies this, I have purposely said but little on the state of
+the people and their character, as I intended to finish my travels
+before I formed my opinion. I did not wish to be guilty of the same
+mistake with another traveller, who, coming to an inn in which he had a
+bad egg for breakfast, served by an ugly girl, immediately set down in
+his Journal, "In this country, the eggs are all bad, and the women all
+ugly." My readers are already aware of the opportunities I possessed of
+obtaining information. They are such as present themselves to almost
+every traveller in France; and they will not therefore be surprised if
+my remarks are somewhat common-place. They will recollect that our party
+disembarked at Dieppe, and travelled from one coast to the other by
+Rouen, Paris, Lyons and Aix. By travelling very slowly, never above 30
+miles a-day, I had, perhaps a better opportunity than common of seeing
+the country, and of conversing with the inhabitants; and I have been
+more than commonly fortunate in forming acquaintance with a number of
+very well informed men in the town, which we selected as the place of
+our residence in the winter: This was Aix, in Provence. I have described
+it before in my Journal, and have only to add, that the head court for
+four departments is held there; that there is a College for the study of
+Law and Divinity, and that it is remarkable for possessing a society of
+men better informed, and of more liberal education, than most other
+towns in France.
+
+The inhabitants of Provence have always been marked by excesses of
+affection or disaffection. They do nothing in moderation; "Les têtes
+chaudes de Provence," is an expression quite common in France. In the
+commencement of the revolution, the bands of Provençals, chiefly
+Marseillois, were the leaders in every outrage. And when the tyrant,
+Napoleon, had fallen from his power, they were among the first to cry
+"Vivent les Bourbons!" They would have torn him to pieces on his way to
+Frejus, had he not been at times disguised, and at other times well
+protected by the troops and police in the villages through which he
+passed. It will then easily be imagined that the English were received
+with open arms at Aix. They heaped on us kindnesses of every
+description, and our only difficulty was to limit our acquaintance. From
+among the most moderate and best informed of our friends at Aix, I
+attempted to collect a few traits and anecdotes of Napoleon, and with
+their assistance, I shall, in the first instance, attempt giving a
+sketch of his character. It would be tedious, as well as unnecessary, to
+detail all the circumstances of his life; for most of these are
+generally known. I shall therefore only mention such as we are not
+generally acquainted with.
+
+* * *
+
+NAPOLEON was born at Ajaccio, in Corsica, not, as is generally supposed,
+in August 1769, but in February 1768. He had a motive for thus
+falsifying even the date of his birth; he conceived that it would assist
+his ambitious views, if he could prove that he was born in a province of
+France, and it was not till 1769 that Corsica became entitled to that
+denomination. His reputed father was not a _huissier_ (or bailiff) as is
+generally stated, but a _greffier_ (or register of one of the courts of
+justice). His mother is a Genoese; she is a woman of very bad
+character; and it is currently reported that Napoleon was the son of
+General Paoli; and that Louis and Jerome were the sons of the Marquis de
+Marbeuf, governor of the island. The conduct of the Marquis to the
+family of Bonaparte, then in the utmost indigence, would sanction a
+belief in this account; he protected the whole family, but particularly
+the sons, and he caused Napoleon to be placed at the Military School of
+Brienne, where he supplied him with money. This money was never spent
+among his companions, but went to purchase mathematical books and
+instruments, and to assist him in erecting fortifications. The only
+times when he deigned to amuse himself with others was during the
+attacks of these fortifications, and immediately on these being
+finished, he would retire and shut himself up among his books and
+mathematical instruments. He was, when a boy, always morose, tyrannical
+and domineering. "[11]Il motrait dans ces jeux cet esprit de domination
+qu'il a depuis manifestée sur le grand theatre du monde; et celui qui
+devoit un jour epouvanter l'Europe a commencè par etre le maitre et
+l'effroi d'une troupe d'enfans[12]."
+
+He left the military college with the rank of lieutenant of artillery,
+and bearing a character which was not likely to recommend him among good
+men. He had very early displayed principles of a most daring nature. In
+a conversation with the master of the academy, some discussion having
+taken place on the subject of the difficulty of governing a great
+nation, the young Corsican remarked, "that the greatest nations were as
+easily managed as a school of boys, but that kings always studied to
+make themselves beloved, and thus worked their own ruin." The infant
+despot of France was certainly determined that no such foolish humanity
+should dictate rules to his ambition. He was once in a private company,
+where a lady making some remarks on the character of Marshal Turenne,
+declared that she would have loved him had he not burned the Palatinate.
+"And of what consequence was that, Madame," said the young Napoleon,
+"provided it assisted his plans?" We may here trace the same unfeeling
+heart that ordered the explosion of the magazine of Grenelle, which, if
+his orders had been executed, must have laid Paris in ruins. Some of my
+readers may, perhaps, not have seen an authentic statement of this most
+horrid circumstance, I shall therefore give a translation of the letter
+of Maillard Lescourt, major of artillery, taken from the Journal des
+Debats of the 7th April: "I was employed, on the evening before the
+attack of Paris, in assembling the horses necessary for the removal of
+the artillery, and was assisted in this duty by the officers of the
+'Direction Generale.' At nine at night a colonel gallopped up to the
+gate of the grating of St Dominique, where I was standing, and asked to
+speak to the Directeur d'Artillerie. On my being shewn to him, he
+immediately asked me if the powder magazine at Grenelle bad been
+evacuated? I replied that it had not, and that there was neither time
+nor horses for the purpose. Then, Sir, said he, it must be blown up. I
+turned pale, and trembled, not reflecting that there was no occasion to
+distress myself for an order which was not written, and with the bearer
+of which I was unacquainted. Do you hesitate? said the Colonel.--It
+immediately occurred to me, that the same order might be given to
+others, if I did not accept of it; I therefore calmly replied to him,
+that I should immediately set about it. Become master of this frightful
+secret, I entrusted it to no one." At Paris we met with persons of much
+respectability, who vouched for the truth of this statement.
+
+There can be no doubt that this order was given by Napoleon, for at this
+time the other ruling authorities had left Paris. It is by no means
+inconsistent with the character of the man; never, in any instance, has
+he been known to value the lives of men, where either ambition or
+revenge instigated him. Beauchamp, in his history of the last campaign,
+gives the following anecdote;[13] "Sire, (lui disoit un general, en le
+felicitant sur la victoire de Montmirail), quel beau jour, si nous ne
+voyions autour de nous tant de villes et de pays devastès. Tant mieux,
+replique Napoleon, cela me donne des soldats!!"
+
+The second capture of Rheims in that campaign was an object of little
+consequence to him, but he now determined it should suffer by fire and
+sword. From the heights he looked down on the town, then partly on fire,
+and smiling said, [14]"Eh bien, dans une heure les dames de Rheims
+auront grand peur." His resentment against the towns that declared for
+the Bourbons was beyond all bounds; The following account of the murder
+of the unfortunate De Goualt is taken from Beauchamp's interesting
+work:[15] "On le saisit, on le conduit à l'hotel de ville, devant une
+commission militaire, qui proçede à son jugement, on plutôt à sa
+condamnation. Une heure s'etait à peine ecoulee qu'un officier survient
+se fait ouvrir les portes, et demande si la sentence est prononçee. Les
+juges vont aller aux voix, dit on. "Qu'on le fusille, sur le champ," dit
+l'officier; "l'Empereur l'ordonne." Le malhereux Goualt est condamne.
+Le deuil est génerale dans la ville. Le proprietaire de la maison,
+qu'avoit choisi Bonaparte pour y etablir son quartier, solicite une
+audience; il l'obtient. "Sire, (dit Monsieur du Chatel à Napoleon), un
+jour de triomphe doit etre un jour de clemence. Je viens de supplier
+votre Majesté d'accorder à toute la ville de Troyes la grace d'un de nos
+malheureux compatriotes qui vient d'etre condamne a mort." "Sortez," dit
+le tyran, d'un air faronche, "Vous oubliez qui vous etes chez moi." Il
+etait onze heures et cet infortune sortait de l'hotel de ville, escorte
+par des gens-d'armes, portant, attache à son dos, et à sa poitrine un
+ecriteau en gros caracteres, dans ces mots, "Traitre a la patrie,"
+qu'on lisait à la lueur des flambeaux. Le dechirant et lugubre cortege
+se dirigeait vers la place du marche destine aux executions criminelles.
+La on veut bander les yeux au condamne. Il s'y refuse, et dit d'une voix
+ferme qu'il saura mourir pour son Roi. Lui meme donne le signal de tirer
+et c'est en criant, "Vive le Roi! Vive Louis XVIII!" qu'il rend le
+dernier soupir."
+
+Tacitus, in describing the Corsicans, gives us three of the principal
+ingredients in the character of Napoleon, when he says, [16]"Ulcisci,
+prima lex est, altera, mentiri, tertia, negare Deos." To these we may
+add unlimited ambition, insatiable vanity, considerable courage at
+times, and the most dastardly cowardice at others. It must be owned,
+that this last is an extraordinary mixture; but I am inclined to
+believe, in despite of the many proofs of rash and impetuous courage,
+that Napoleon was in the main, and whenever life and existence was at
+stake, a cool and selfish coward. His rival Moreau always thought so.
+Immediately before the campaign of Dresden, in a conversation on
+Napoleon's character, this General observed, [17]"Ce qui characterise
+cet homme, ce'st le mensonge et l'amour de la vie; Je vais l'attaquer,
+je le battrai, et je le verrai a mes pieds me demander la vie."--It
+pleased Providence that a part only of this prediction should be
+accomplished; but we have seen that Bonaparte dared not court the death
+of Moreau. Never was more decided cowardice shewn by any man than by
+Napoleon after the entry of the allies into Paris. How easily might he
+have fought his way, with a numerous band of determined followers, who,
+to the last minute, never failed him; but he preferred remaining to beg
+for his life, and to attend to the removal _of his wines and
+furniture_!! But we must proceed more regularly in developing the traits
+of this extraordinary man. A gentleman of Aix, one of whose near
+relations had the charge of Napoleon, when his character was suspected
+at Toulon, gave me the following particulars of his first employment.
+During the siege of Toulon, he had greatly distinguished himself, and
+had applied to the "Commissaires de Convention," who at that time
+possessed great power in the army, to promote him; but these men
+detesting Bonaparte's character, refused his request.--On this occasion,
+General De Gominier said to them, [18]"Avancez cet officier; car si vous
+ne l'avancez pas, il saura bien s'avancer lui meme." The Commissaries
+could no longer refuse, and Bonaparte was appointed colonel of
+artillery. Shortly after this, having got into some scrape from his
+violent and turbulent disposition, he was put under arrest; and it was
+even proposed that he should be tried and executed (a necessary
+consequence of a trial at that period). His situation at this time was
+extremely unpromising; Robespierre and his accomplices, Daunton, St
+Juste, Barrere, &c. were all either put to death or forced to conceal
+themselves. Bonaparte now perceived, that for the accomplishment of his
+views, it was necessary that he should forsake his haughty and
+domineering tone, and flatter those in power. He immediately commenced a
+series of intrigues, and by the assistance of his friends at Paris, and
+that good fortune which has always befriended him, he soon found an
+opportunity of extricating himself from the danger which surrounded him.
+Barras, who was then at the head of the administration, under the title
+of Directeur, alarmed by the distracted state of Paris, and dreading the
+return of the Bourbons, assembled a council of his friends and
+associates in crime; it was then determined that an attack should
+immediately be made on the Parisian royalists, or, as the gentleman who
+gave me this account expressed it, [19]"Dissiper les royalistes, et
+foudroyer les Parisiens jusque dans leurs foyers."
+
+But where were they to find a Frenchman who would take upon him the
+execution of so barbarous an order? One of the meeting mentioned
+Bonaparte, and his well-known character determined the directors in
+their choice. He was ordered to Paris, and the hand of Madame
+Beauharnois, and the command of the army of Italy, held out to him as
+the reward of his services, provided he succeeded in _dissipating_ the
+royalists. It is well known that he did succeed to his utmost wish; the
+streets of Paris were strewed with dead bodies, and the power of the
+Directory was proclaimed by peals of artillery.
+
+Shortly after this, Bonaparte commenced that campaign in Italy, in which
+he so highly signalised himself as a great general and a brave soldier.
+It is the general opinion of the French that this was the only campaign
+in which Napoleon shewed personal courage; others allege, that he
+continued to display the greatest bravery till the siege of Acre. To
+reconcile the different opinions with respect to the character of
+Napoleon in this point, is a matter of much difficulty. After having
+heard the subject repeatedly discussed by officers who had accompanied
+him in many of his campaigns; after having read all the pamphlets of the
+day, I am inclined to think that the character given of him in that
+work, perhaps erroneously believed to be written by his valet, is the
+most just. This book certainly contains much exaggeration, but it is by
+no means considered, by the French whom I have met, as a forgery. The
+author must, from his style, be a man of some education; and he asserts
+that he was with him in all his battles, from the battle of Marengo to
+the campaign of Paris. He declares, that Napoleon was _courageous only
+in success, brave only when victorious_; that the slightest reverse made
+him a coward. His conduct in Egypt, in abandoning his army, his
+barbarous and unfeeling flight from Moscow, and his last scene at
+Fontainbleau, are sufficient proofs of this.
+
+The battle of Marengo is generally instanced as the one in which
+Napoleon shewed the greatest personal courage; but this statement
+neither agrees with the account given in the above work, nor by Monsieur
+Gaillais. From the work of the last mentioned gentleman, entitled
+"Histoire de Dix huit Brumaire," I shall extract a few lines on the
+subject of this battle.[20] "A la pointe du jour les Autrichiens
+commencerent l'attaque, dabord assez lentement, plus vivement ensuite,
+et enfin avec une telle furie que les Français furent enfoncès de tous
+cotès. Dans ce moment affreux ou les morts et les mourants jonchaiènt la
+terre, le premier Consul, placè au milieu de sa garde, semblait
+immuable, insensible, et comme frappè de la foudre. Vainement les
+generaux lui depechaient coup sur coup leurs Aides de Camp, pour
+demander des secours; vainement les Aides de Camp attendaient les
+ordres; il n'endonnait aucune; il donnait a peine signe de la vie.
+Plusieurs penserent que croyant la battaille perdue, il voulut se faire
+tuer. D'autres, avec plus de raison, se persuaderent qu'il avoit perdu
+la tête, et qu'il ne voyait et n'entendait plus rien de se qui se disoit
+et de ce qui se passait autour de lui. Le General Berthier vint le prier
+instamment de se retirer; au lieu de lui repondre il se coucha par
+terre. Cependant les Français fuyerent a toutes jambes, la bataille
+etoit perdue lorsque tout a coup on entendait dire que le General
+Dessaix arrive avec une division de troupes fraiches. Bientot apres on
+le voit paroitre lui meme a leur tête; les fuyards se ralliaient
+derrierè ses colonnes--leur courage est revenuè--la chance tourne--les
+Français attaquent a leur tour avec la meme furie qu'ils avoient etê
+attaquè--et brulent d'effacer la honte de leur defaite du matin."
+
+Desaix fell in this battle, and the whole glory of it was given to
+Napoleon. The last words of this gallant man were these: [21]"Je meurs
+avec le regret de n'avoir pas assez vecu pour ma patrie.".
+
+This account of Napoleon's behaviour at Marengo was confirmed to me at
+Aix, by two French officers of rank who had been present at the battle.
+
+I do not mean to give a life of Napoleon; ere a year is past, I have not
+a doubt that we shall have but too many; indeed, already they are not
+wanting in England. I mean only to give such anecdotes as are not so
+generally known, and to attempt an explanation of the two most
+interesting circumstances in his career, viz. the means he has employed
+in his aggrandisement, and the causes of his downfall. It is only when
+we survey the extent of his power, without reflecting on the gradual
+steps which led to it, that we are astonished and confounded; for, in
+reality, when his means are considered, and the state of France at the
+time is placed before our eyes, much of the difficulty vanishes; and we
+perceive, that any daring character, making use of the same means, might
+have arrived at the same end. It is foolish to deny him (as many of his
+biographers do), great military talent, for that he certainly possessed,
+as long as his good fortune allowed him to display it. This talent he
+not only evinced in the formation of his plans, but in the execution
+also. No man knew better the means of calling forth the inexhaustible
+military resources of France. The people of that country were always
+brave; but Bonaparte alone knew how to make them all soldiers. The
+desire of glory has ever characterized the nation, and the state of
+tyranny and oppression in which they were kept under his government, had
+no effect in diminishing this passion. The French people under Napoleon
+furnish a striking exception to the maxim of Montesquieu, when he says,
+[22]"On peut poser pour maxime, que dans chaque etat le desir de la
+gloire existe avec la liberté de sujets, et diminue avec elle; la gloire
+n'est jamais compagne de la servitude."
+
+The French forget their misfortunes almost immediately. After the
+campaign of Moscow, one would have thought that the hardships they
+endured might have given them a sufficient disgust, and that it was
+likely they would forsake one who shewed so little feeling for them. I
+happened once to meet with several of the poor wretches who had been
+with him; they were then on their road home; most of them were entirely
+disabled; one had his toes frozen off--they declared that they _would
+again fight under him if they were able_. At one of the inns, I met with
+a young officer who had also been with him at Moscow: I happened to
+enquire how they could bear the cold? "We were as comfortable," said he,
+"as you and I are at this fire-side." The poor fellow was not twenty-one
+years old. [23]"La jeunesse d'aujour-d'hui est elevee dans d'autres
+principes; l'amour de la gloire sur tout a jetè des profondes racines;
+il est devenu l'attribut le plus distinctif du caractere national,
+exaltè par vingt ans de succes continues. Mais cette gloire meme etoit
+devenue notre idole, elle absorboit toutes les pensees des braves mis
+hors-de-combat par leurs blessures, toutes les esperances des jeunes
+gens qui faisaient leur premieres armes. Un coup imprevu l'a frappè,
+nous trouvons dans nos cœurs une vide semblable a celui qui trouve un
+amant qui a perdu l'objet de sa passion; tout se qu'il voit, tout ce
+qu'il entende renouvelle sa douleur. Ce sentiment rend notre situation
+vague et penible; chacun cherche a se dissimuler la place qu'il sente
+exister au fond de son cœur. On le regarde comme humilie, apres vingt
+ans des triomphes continues, pour avoir perdu une seule partie
+malhereusement etait la partie d'honneur; et qui a fait la regle de nos
+destinees."--Such is the language of the military.
+
+In conversation one evening with one of the noblesse, who had suffered
+in the revolution, he told me that this military spirit extended not
+only to all ranks and professions, but to all ages. He said that the
+young men in the schools refused to learn any thing but mathematics and
+the science of arms; and that he recollected many instances of boys ten
+and twelve years of age, daily entreating their fathers and mothers to
+permit them to join Napoleon. It was in vain to represent to them the
+hardships they must suffer; their constant reply was, "If we die, we
+will at least find glory." Read the campaign of Moscow, said another
+gentleman to me, you will there see the French character:[24] "Les
+François sont les seuls dans l'univers qui pourroient rire meme en
+gelant."
+
+Napoleon certainly greatly encreased the military spirit of the people:
+Before his time, you heard of commerce, of agriculture, of manufactures,
+as furnishing the support of the community; under him, you heard of
+nothing but war. The rapid destruction of the population of France
+occasioned constant promotion, and the army became the most promising
+profession. It was a profession in which no education was wanting--to
+which all had access. Bonaparte never allowed merit to go unrewarded.
+The institution of the Legion of Honour alone was an instrument in his
+hands of sufficient power to call forth the energy of a brave people; to
+this rank even the private soldier might arrive. In this organization
+of the army, therefore, we may trace his first means of success.
+
+The next was his military _tactique_:--The great and simple principle on
+which this was founded, is evident in every one of the pitched battles
+which he gained;--he out-numbered his opponents,--he sacrificed a
+troop,--a battalion,--a division,--or a whole army without bestowing a
+moment's thought. Bonaparte has sometimes, though very seldom, shewn
+that his heart could be touched, but never, on any occasion, did the
+miserable display of carnage in the field of battle call forth these
+feelings; never was he known to pity his soldiers. On seeing a body of
+fresh recruits join the army, his favourite expression was always,
+[25]"Eh bien, voyez encore de matiere premiere, du chair a cannon."
+After a battle, when he rode over the ground, he would smile, and say,
+[26]"Ma foi, voyez une grande consommation." The day after the battle of
+Prusse-Eylau, his valet thus describes his visit to the field of blood:
+[27]"Il faisoit un froid glacial, des mourants respiroient encore; la
+foule des cadavres et les cavitès noiratres qui le sang des hommes avoit
+laisse dans la neigè faisoit un affreux contraste. L'etat Major etoit
+peniblement affectè. L'Empereur seul contemplait froidement cette scene
+de deuil et de sang. Je poussai mon cheval quelques pas devant le sien;
+j'etois eurieux de l'observer dans un pareil moment. Vous eussiez dit
+qu'il etoit alors detachè de toutes les affections humaines, que tout ce
+qui l'environnait n'existoit pour lui. Il parloit tranquillement des
+evenemens de la veille. En passant devant une groupe des grenadiers
+Russes massacrès, le cheval d'un Aide-de-Camp avoit peur. Le Prince
+l'appercevait: "Ce cheval, lui dit il, froidement, est un lache."
+
+It cannot be doubted that such a man would sacrifice regiment after
+regiment to obtain his purpose; we may indeed wonder, that when known to
+possess such a heart, he was obeyed by his men: But a little thought, a
+little reflection on the means he took to ingratiate himself with his
+troops will remove this difficulty. Look also at his dispatches, his
+proclamations, and orders; they appear the effusion of the father of a
+family addressing his children: "Their country required the sacrifices,
+which he deplored." All thought is at an end when they are thus attacked
+on their weak side. At other times, the hope of plunder was held out to
+them. The words, _glory, honour, their country, laurels, immortal
+fame_--these words, fascinating to the ear of any people, are more
+peculiarly so to the French. When conversing with an old French officer,
+who had served under the Prince of Condè in the emigrant army, on this
+subject, he made this remark: "Sir, you do not know the French;
+assemble them together, and having pronounced the words _glory, honour
+and your country_, point to the moon, and you will have an army ready to
+undertake the enterprise." Napoleon was well aware of this weakness of
+the French. He would ride through the ranks on the eve of a battle,
+would recall their former victories to one body; make promises to a
+second; joke with a third,--cold, distant, and forbidding at all other
+times, he is described as affable in the extreme on all such occasions.
+The meanest soldier might then address him.
+
+The rapid military promotion may be given as another cause of Napoleon's
+success. The most distinguished corps were, of course, the greatest
+sufferers; and the young man who joined the army, as a lieutenant, on
+the eve of an action, was a captain the next day, perhaps a colonel
+before he had seen a year's service. [28]"Des ouvriers sortis de leurs
+atteliers (says Monsieur Gaillais in his "Histoire de Dix Huit
+Brumaire,") des paysans echappes de villages, avec un bonnet sur la tête
+et un baton a la main, devenaient au bout de six mois des soldats
+intrepides, et au bout de deux ans des officiers agueris, et des
+generaux redoubtables au plus anciens generaux de l'Europe." Nothing
+struck me more forcibly than the youth of the French officers. The
+generals only are veterans, for Bonaparte well knew, that experience is
+as necessary as courage in a General.
+
+Next, we may direct our attention to the means which this despot
+possessed, by filling the war department with his own creatures; by
+giving liberal salaries and unlimited power to the prefects of the
+different departments, he amassed both troops and pay to support them.
+The tyrannic measures for levying these became at last insupportable;
+the people were rising in the villages, and by force of arms rescuing
+their companions; and it is very probable that he might have found,
+latterly, a want of men; but for years he has had at his disposal three
+hundred thousand men annually. In describing the effects of the
+conscription, one of the members of the Senate made use of the
+following expression:--[29]"On moissonne les homines trois fois
+l'anneé."
+
+With such supplies, what single power could resist him? War with him
+became a mere mechanical calculation. Among the causes of his elevation,
+the use he made of the other continental Powers must not be forgotten;
+whether gained by corruption, treachery, or force, they all became his
+allies; they were all compelled to assist him with troops. When the
+Sovereigns of these countries consented to his plans, they were
+permitted to govern their own kingdoms, otherwise the needy family of
+Bonaparte supplied the _roitelets_ at a moment's warning. These little
+monarchs, he is said to have treated with the utmost contempt.
+
+My readers may perhaps be inclined to smile, when I mention among the
+causes of Napoleon's elevation, the use made by him of ballad-singers,
+newsmongers, pedlars, &c. But really, on a deliberate view of his system
+of juggling and deception, I am inclined to believe, that it was one of
+his most powerful engines. The people of France are not only the most
+vain, but the most credulous in the world. To work on their feelings,
+he kept in constant pay author of every description, from the man who
+composed the Vaudeville, which was sold for half a sous, to the authors
+of the many clever political pamphlets which daily appear in France: for
+the dissemination of these, he had agents, not only in France, but in
+distant countries. When he aimed at the subjugation of any part of the
+continent, his first endeavour was always to disseminate seditious and
+inflammatory pamphlets against its Government. It is never doubted in
+France, that even in _England_, he had his emissaries.
+
+Editors of newspapers, in every part of the globe, were in his pay. The
+method in which the newspaper, called the Argus, was published, is an
+extraordinary proof of this fact. The Argus, whose principal object was
+to abuse the English, was first of all written in French, by one of the
+"Commissaires de Police;" it was then translated into English, and a few
+copies were circulated in this language, to keep up the idea, that it
+was smuggled over from England; after these found their way, the French
+copy, or in other words, the original, was widely circulated. A more
+infamous trick can scarce be conceived. Extracts from this paper were,
+by express order of Napoleon, published in every French paper. Nothing
+was considered by him as beneath his notice. He encouraged dancing,
+feasting, gaming. The theatres, concerts, public gardens, were under his
+protection. The traiteurs, the keepers of caffès, of brothels, of
+ale-houses, the limonadiers, and the wine-merchants, were his particular
+favourites. His object in this was, to produce a degree of profligacy in
+the public manners, and a disgust at industry; and the consequence was,
+the resort of all ranks to the army, as the easiest and most lucrative
+profession.
+
+With regard to the many other causes which will suggest themselves to my
+readers in reading a history of his campaigns, I shall say nothing; for
+on all of these, as well as on the causes of his downfall, which I shall
+merely enumerate, I leave them to make their own observations. I have
+already been very tedious, and have yet much to observe on different
+points of his character.
+
+To the last rigorous measures for the conscription, to the institution
+of the "Droits Reunis;" to the formation of the garde d'honneur; and to
+his attack on the religion of France, Bonaparte owed his first
+unpopularity. The hatred of the French is as impetuous as their
+admiration. They exclaimed against every measure when they were once
+exasperated against him: still he had many friends; still he possessed
+an army which kept the nation in awe. This army he chose to sacrifice in
+Spain and Russia. The nation could no longer supply him, and the strong
+coalition which took place against him, was not to be repelled by a
+broken-down army. His military talent seemed latterly to have forsaken
+him, and never was the expulsion of a tyrant so easily accomplished.
+
+His excessive vanity never left him--of this, the Moniteur for the last
+ten years is a sufficient proof; but in reading the accounts of him, I
+was particularly struck with the instances which follow.
+
+Anxious to impress on the minds of the Directors, the necessity of the
+expedition to Egypt, he made a speech, in which the meanest flattery was
+judiciously mingled with his usual vanity. [30]"Ce n'est que sous un
+gouvernement aussi sage aussi grand que le votre, qu'un simple soldat
+tel que moi pouvait conçevoir le projet de porter la guerre en
+Egypte.--Oui, Directeurs, à peine serais je maitre d'Egypte, et des
+solitudes de la Palestine, que l'Angleterre vous donnera un vaisseau de
+premier bord pour un sac de bled."
+
+Some days before his celebrated appearance among the "Cinq Cents," his
+friends advised him to repair thither well armed, and attended with
+troops. [31]"Si je me presente avec des troupes (disait Napoleon), c'est
+pour complaire à mes amis, car en verité j'ai la plus grande envie d'y
+paraitre comme fit jadis Louis XIV. au Parlement, en bottes, et un fouet
+à la main."
+
+In his speech to the Corps Legislatif, on the 1st of January 1814, he
+made use of the following words at the close of an oration, composed of
+the same unmeaning phrases, strung together in fifty different shapes.
+[32]"Je suis de ces homines qu'on tue, mais qu'on ne dishonore pas.
+Dans trois mois nous aurons la paix, ou l'enemi sera chasse de notre
+territoire--ou, je serai mort."
+
+A further specimen of Napoleon's style, will, I think, amuse my readers;
+I shall, therefore, copy out an extract of his speech to the Legislative
+Body: [33]"Je vous ai appellè autour de moi pour faire le bien, vous
+avez fait le mal, vous avez entre vous des gens devouès à l'Angleterre,
+qui correspondent avec le Prince Regent par l'entremise de l'avocat
+Deseze. Les onze-douziemes parmi vous sont bons; les autres sont des
+factieux. Retournez dans vos departments;--je vous y suivrai de l'Å“il.
+Je suis un homme qu'on peut tuer, mais qu'on nè saurait deshonnorer.
+Quel est celui d'entre vous qui pouvait supporter le fardeau du
+pouvoir; il a ecrasè l'Assemble Constituante, qui dicta des loix à un
+monarque faible. Le Fauxbourg St Antoine nous aurait secondé, mais il
+vous est bientot abandonnè. Que sont devenus les Jacobins, les
+Girondins, les Vergniaux, les Guadets, et tant d'autres? Ils sont morts.
+Vous avez cherché à me barbouiller aux gens de la France. C'est un
+attentat;--qu'est que le trone, au reste? Quatre morçeaux de bois dorè
+recouverts de velours. Je vous avais indiqué un Commité Secret; c'etait
+là qu'il fallait laver notre linge. J'ai un titre, vous n'en avez point.
+Qui etes vous dans la Constitution? Vous n'avez point d'autorite. C'est
+le Trone qui est la Constitution. Tout est dans le trone et dans moi.
+Je vous le repete, vous avez parmi vous des factieux. Monsieur Laisnè
+est un mechant homme; les autres sont des factieux. Je les connais, et
+je les poursuivrai. Je vous le demande, Etait ce cependant que les
+ennemies sont chez nous qu'il fallait faire de pareilles choses? La
+nature m'a doué d'un courage fort; il peut resister à tout. Il en a
+beaucoup coutè a mon orgueil, je l'ai sacrifiè. Je suis au dessus de vos
+miserables declamations. J'avais demandé des consolations et vous m'avez
+dishonoré. Mais non; mes victoires ecrasent vos criailleries. Je suis de
+ceux qui triomphent ou qui meurent. Retournez dans vos departments."
+
+The vanity of Napoleon led him to suppose that he was fitted to lay
+down the law to the most eminent among the French philosophers; that he
+could improve the French language, the theatre, the state of society,
+the public seminaries, the weights and measures of the realm. He
+meddled, in short, with every thing. Under the walls of Moscow, he
+composed a proclamation in the morning, declaring that he would soon
+dictate a code of laws to the Russians; and, in the evening, he dictated
+a code of regulations for the theatres of Paris. His ardent wish was, to
+have it thought that he had time and capacity for every thing. It arose
+from this, that he trusted to no one, and having himself every thing to
+do, that he did nothing well. If he went to visit a college, he prepared
+Latin and Greek sentences for the occasion; in many of his speeches he
+introduced scrapes of classic lore. His love of Greek terms is admirably
+described in a little epigram, made on his new _tarif_ of weights and
+measures, in which the _grams_ and _killograms_, and _metres_ and
+_killometres_ are introduced.
+
+    Les Grecs pour nous ont tant d'attraits
+    Qui pour se faire bien entendre,
+    Et pour comprendre le Français
+    Ce'st le Greque qu'il faut apprendre.
+
+He was particularly anxious that his police should be perfect. He
+pursued, for the accomplishment of his views, the same plan so
+successfully employed under the celebrated Sartine. He had spies in
+every private family, and every rank and denomination. These he did not
+employ as Sartine did, for the detection of thieves and robbers; with
+him, the dreadful machine of espionage was organised, in order that he
+might always know the state of public feeling; that knowing also the
+character of each individual, he might be the better able to select
+instruments fit for his purposes. Fouche had brought this system to the
+utmost perfection. Bonaparte distrusted him, and demanded proofs of his
+activity. Fouche desired him to appoint a day, on which he should give
+him a full account of every action performed by him. The day was
+appointed, the utmost precaution was used by the Emperor; but the spies
+gave an account of his every action from six in the morning till eight
+at night. They refused to inform Fouche what had become of Bonaparte
+after eight; but said, that if the Emperor desired it, they would inform
+him in person. The Emperor did not press the subject farther, but
+confessed _that he had not spent the remainder of the evening in the
+best of company_. Ever after this he was satisfied with the state of
+the police. To give some idea of the activity of this system, I may
+mention a curious anecdote, which I received from our banker: One of the
+most respectable bankers in Paris, whose name I have forgot, was sitting
+at supper with his chief _commis_ or clerk. They were served by one
+faithful old servant, who, during 30 years, had been tried, and had
+always been found worthy of confidence. The conversation turned on the
+subject of the last campaign--this was before the campaign of Paris. The
+_commis_ happened to remark, that he thought Bonaparte's career was
+nearly finished, and that he would meet his fate presently. The next
+morning the banker received a letter from the Police Department,
+instructing him to order the departure of his _commis_ from Paris within
+24 hours, and from France within a month.
+
+The same gentleman gave me a genuine edition of the celebrated story of
+Sartine's stopping the travellers at the gates of Paris. It may amuse my
+readers, although, I dare say, they have seen it before in other shapes.
+
+A very rich lace merchant from Brussels, was in the habit of constantly
+frequenting the fair of St Denis. On these occasions, he repaired to
+Paris in the public diligence, accompanied by his trunks of lace. He
+had apartments at an hotel in the Rue des Victoires, which he had for
+many years occupied; and to secure which, he used always to write some
+weeks before. An illness had prevented his visiting the fair during two
+years; on the third, he wrote as usual to his landlord, and received an
+answer, that the death of the landlord had occasioned a change in the
+firm and tenants of the house; but that he was well known to them, and
+that they would keep for him his former rooms, and would do their utmost
+to give him satisfaction.
+
+The merchant set out--arrived at the barrier of Paris; the diligence was
+stopped, and a gentleman whom he had never seen before, accosted him by
+name, and desired him to alight. The merchant was a good deal surprised
+at this; but you may judge of his alarm, when he heard an order given to
+the _conducteur_ to unloose numbers one, two, three--the trunks, in
+which was contained his whole fortune. The gentleman desired he would
+not be afraid, but trust every thing to him. The diligence was ordered
+away, and the lace merchant, in a state of agony, was conveyed by his
+new acquaintance to the house of Monsieur de Sartine. He there began an
+enumeration of his grievances, but was civilly interrupted by M. de
+Sartine--"Sir, you have not much reason to complain; but for your visit
+to me here, you would have been murdered this night at twelve." The
+minister then detailed to him the plan that had been laid for his
+murder, and astonished him by shewing a copy, not only of the letter
+which he had written to the landlord of the hotel, but also the answer
+returned by the landlord. Monsieur de Sartine then begged that he would
+place the most implicit confidence in him, and remain in his house until
+he should recover himself from his fright. He would then return to the
+coach in waiting, and would be attended to the hotel by one of his
+emissaries as valet. The merchant told him that the people of the house
+would not be deceived by a stranger, for they were well acquainted with
+all his concerns, and even with his writing. "Examine your attendant,"
+said M. de Sartine; "you will find him well instructed, and he speaks
+your dialect as you do yourself." A few questions convinced the merchant
+that the minister had made a good selection. M. de Sartine then
+described the reception he would meet with, the rooms he was to occupy,
+the persons he should see, and laid down directions for his conduct;
+telling him, at the same time, that if at a loss, he should consult his
+attendant. On his arrival at the inn, every thing shewed the wonderful
+correctness of the information. His reception was kind as ever. Dinner
+was served up; and the merchant, according to his practice, engaged
+himself till a late hour in his usual occupations. The valet played his
+part to a miracle, and saw his master to bed, after repeating to him the
+instructions of Monsieur de Sartine. The merchant, as may well be
+supposed, did not sleep much. At twelve, a trap door in the floor opened
+gently, and a man ascended into the apartment, having a dark lanthorn in
+one hand, and in the other, some small rings of iron, used for gagging
+people to prevent their speaking. He had just ascended, when the valet
+knocked him down and secured him; the room was immediately filled with
+the officers of the police. The house had been surrounded to prevent
+escape; and in a cellar under the room where the merchant had slept, and
+which communicated with the trap door, were found the master, mistress,
+and all the members of the gang--they were all secured.
+
+Let us proceed with the character of Napoleon. All the world is well
+acquainted with his vices; it is less probable that they have ever heard
+of his virtues, of his having shown that he felt as a man. The
+following instance is authentic:
+
+After the capture of Berlin, the command of the city was given to one of
+the Prussian generals, who had sworn fidelity to Bonaparte. This officer
+betrayed his trust, and communicated to the King of Prussia all the
+information which he obtained of the motions of the French army.
+Bonaparte obtained sufficient proof of his crime, by intercepted
+letters. The officer was arrested, a military trial was ordered, and
+sentence of death pronounced. The wife of the officer threw herself at
+the feet of Bonaparte, and implored the life of her husband. He was
+touched, and drawing out from his pocket the letters which proved the
+crime, he tore them to pieces, saying, that in thus destroying the
+proofs of his guilt, he deprived himself of the power of afterwards
+punishing it. The officer was immediately released.
+
+If Napoleon did not possess feeling, or even common humanity, he was at
+least anxious that the people of France should believe that he had these
+good qualities. It is said that, on the evening before he left Paris on
+his last campaign, he sent for the tragedian Talma, and had taught to
+him the action, features and aspect which he the next day employed when
+he left his wife and child to the care of the national guard. The
+following scene will at once show his desire to be esteemed generous,
+and his utter meanness of character:--[34]"Un de ses Ministres l'aborde
+un jour et lui presente un rapport qu'il avait desiré; il s'agissait
+d'une conspiration contre sa personne. J'etais present à cette scene. Je
+m'attendais, je l'avoue, à le voir entrer en fureur, fulminer contre les
+traitres, menacer les magistrats, et les accuser de negligence. Point du
+tout; il parcourt le papier sans donner le moindre signe d'agitation.
+Jugez de ma surprise, ou plutôt quelle douce emotion j'eprouvais quand
+il fit entendre ces paroles touchantes et sublimes:--"Monsieur le Comte,
+l'etat n'a point souffert; les magistrats n'ont point etè insultés; ce
+n'est donc qu'à ma personne qu'ils en voulaient; je les plains de ne
+point savoir que tous mes vœux tendent au bonheur de la France; mais
+tout homme peut s'egarer. Dites aux ingrats que je leurs pardonne. Mons.
+le Conte aneantissez la procedure." Maintenant je defie le royaliste le
+plus fidele qui seroit temoin d'un proçede si magnanime, de ne point
+dire, si le ciel dans sa colere devait un usurpateur a la France;
+remercions d'avoir du celui ci. Arrete malhereux, tes yeux ont vu, tes
+oreilles ont entendu, ne crois rien de tout; mais deux jours apres
+trouve toi, au lever de ce hero, si magnanime, si peu avide de se
+veuger--on ouvre, le voici, la foule des courtisans l'environne, tout le
+monde fixe les yeux sur lui. Sa figure est decomposée, tous les muscles
+de son visage sont en contraction, tout son ensemble est farouche et
+colere. Un silence funebre regne dans l'assemblée. Le Prince n'a point
+encore parlè, mais il promene des regardes sur la groupe: il appeicoit
+le meme officier, qui deux jours avant lui avait presente le rapport,
+"Monsieur le Conte, (dit il), ces laches conspirateurs sont ils
+executés? Leurs complices sont ils aux fers? Les bourreaux on ils donnè
+un nouvel example a qui voudrait imiter ceux qui veuleut a ma personne?"
+
+A distinguishing feature in Napoleon's character was unnecessary
+cruelty; of this the campaign in Moscow, (of which Labaume's narrative
+is a true though highly-coloured picture), the slaughter of the Turks in
+Egypt, the poisoning of his invalids, and the death of every one who
+stood in his way, are sufficient and notorious proofs. St Cloud was in
+general the scene of his debaucheries. The following anecdote was
+related by Count Rumford to a gentleman of my acquaintance, and may be
+depended on as correct; for at the time that it happened, Count Rumford
+was in lodgings on the spot. Napoleon had brought from Paris a beautiful
+girl belonging to the opera; he had carried her into one of the arbours
+of the garden. Many of the little boys about St Cloud were in habits of
+climbing up among the trees, whether merely as a play, or from curiosity
+to see the Emperor. On leaving the arbour with his favourite, Napoleon
+saw one of these boys perched upon a high tree above him. He flew
+straight to one of the gates, and bringing the sentinel who was
+stationed there, he pointed out the boy, exclaiming, "Tirez sur ce b----
+la." The order was executed, and the boy never more seen.
+
+But for no one act did he incur the hatred of the French in such a
+degree as for the murder of the Duke d'Enghien; in committing this
+crime, not only the laws of humanity, but the laws of nations were
+violated.
+
+This branch of the Royal Family was under a foreign power; he could by
+no means be esteemed a subject of Bonaparte. Even the family of
+Bonaparte, who, (as we shall presently see), did not possess many good
+qualities, were shocked with this crime; they reproached him with it;
+and Lucien said to him, [35]"Vous voulez dont nous faire trainer sur la
+claye."
+
+The treatment of the Pope, of Pichegru, of Georges, of Moreau, furnish
+us with further instances of his cruelty. Bonaparte did his utmost to
+make the Parisians believe that Moreau was connected with Pichegru in
+the conspiracy to establish the Bourbons on the throne. This was totally
+false. But Napoleon, jealous of a rival like Moreau, could not bear that
+he should live. Moreau's bold and unbending character hastened his
+downfall. He always called the flat-bottomed boats, [36]"Ces coquilles
+de noix;" and after an excellent dinner which he gave at Paris to many
+of his fellow Generals, in mockery of the [37]"Epées d'honneur, fusils
+d'honneur," &c, which Bonaparte at this time distributed; Moreau sent
+for his cook, and with much ceremony invested him with a [38]"casserole
+d'honneur."
+
+There are many interesting traits of this noble character, which, if I
+had time, I should wish to give my readers. When he had been condemned
+to imprisonment for two years, by the express orders of Bonaparte, the
+impression made on the mind of the soldiery, of the judges, and of all
+the court, was such, that they seemed insensible to what was going on.
+Nobody was found to remove him from the bar; he descended the stairs of
+the court; walked down the street amid a crowd of admirers; and instead
+of escaping, as he easily might, he called a coach, and ordered the
+coachman to drive to the Temple. When arrived there, he informed the
+Governor of his sentence, and its execution. My readers will, I am sure,
+be pleased with a few extracts from the account of Moreau's death, given
+by his friends, M. Breton de la Martiniere and M. Rapatel:
+
+"Moreau conversait avec l'Empereur Alexandre, dont il n'etait separé que
+le demi longueur d'un cheval. Il est probable qu'on apperçut de la place
+ce brillant etat major, et que l'on tira dessus au hazard. Moreau fut
+seul frappé. Un boulet lui fraccassa le genou droit et à travers le
+flanc du cheval alla emporter le gros de la jambe gauche. Le genereux
+Alexandre versa des larmes. Le Colonel Rapatel se preçipitait sur son
+General. Moreau poussa un long soupir et s'evanouit. Revenu à lui meme,
+il parle avec le plus grand sang froid, et dit à Monsieur Rapatel, "Je
+suis perdu, mon ami, mais il est si glorieux de mourir pour une si belle
+cause, et sous les yeux d'un aussi grand Prince." Péu d'instants apres
+il dit à l'Empereur Alexandre lui meme, "Il ne vous reste que le
+tronc--mais le cœur y est, et la tête est à vous." Il doit souffrir des
+douleurs aigus--il demanda une cigare et se mit tranquillement à fumer.
+
+"Mons. Wylie, premier chirurgien de l'Empereur Alexandre, se hata
+d'amputer la jambe qui etait la plus mal traiteé. Pendant cette cruelle
+operation, Moreau montra à peine quelque alteration dans ses traits et
+ne cessa point de fumer la cigarre. L'amputation faite, Monsieur Wylie
+examina la jambe droite, et la trouva dans un tel etat qu'il ne peut se
+defendre d'un mouvement d'effroi. "Je vous entend," dit Moreau, "Il faut
+encore couper celle ci, eh bien, faites vite. Cependant j'eusse preferé
+la mort." Il voulait ecrire à sa femme. Il ecrivait donc d'une main
+assez ferme ces propres expressions. "Ma chere amie,--La bataille se
+decide il y a trois jours.--J'ai eu les deux jambes emportées d'un
+boulet de canon--ce coquin de Bonaparte est toujours hereux. On m'a
+fait l'amputation aussi bien que possible--l'armée a faite un mouvement
+retrograde, ce n'est pas par revers, mais par decousu et pour se
+rapprocher au General Blucher. Excuse mon griffonage. Je t'aime et
+t'embrasse de tout mon cœur. Je charge Rapatel de finir."
+
+"Tout à l'heure il dit: "Je ne suis pas sans danger, je le sais bien,
+mais si je meurs, si une fin prematurée m'enleve à une femme, à une
+fille aimèe; a mon pays que je voulais servir malgre lui meme; n'oubliez
+pas de dire, aux Français qui vous parleront de moi, que je meurs avec
+le regret de n'avoir pas accompli mes projets. Pour affranchir ma patrie
+du joug affreux qui l'opprime pour ecraser Bonaparte, toutes les armes,
+tous les moyens etaient bons. Avec quelle joie j'aurai consacré le peu
+de talent que je possede à la cause de l'humanite! Mon cœur appartenoit
+a la France."
+
+"Vers sept heurs le malade se trouvant seul avec Monsieur Svinine lui
+dit d'une voix affaiblie--" Je veux absolument vous dicter une
+lettre.--Monsieur Svinine prit la plume en gemissant et traça ce peu de
+lignes sous la dictée de Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--Je descends dans le tombeau avec les memes sentiments de
+respect, d'admiration, et de devouement que votre Majesté m'a
+constamment inspiré, des que j'ai eu le bohheur de m'approcher de votre
+personne."
+
+"En pronoçant ces derniers mots, le malade s'interompit et ferma les
+yeux M. Svinine attendit, croyant que Moreau meditait sur la suite de sa
+depeche--Vain espoir--Moreau n'etait plus."[39]
+
+I am impatient to finish the character of Napoleon, and to get upon some
+other more agreeable subject. I shall end by giving an account of his
+last appearance in France, as related to me by the Sub-Prefect of Aix,
+who accompanied him on his way from Aix to the coast.--After passing
+Montlement, the public feeling began to burst forth against him. The
+spirit of the Provençals could not be restrained. In every village was
+displayed the white cockade, and the fleur de lis. In one, the villagers
+were employed at the moment of his passing in hanging him in effigy; at
+another they compelled him to call out Vive le Roi, and he obeyed them,
+while his attendants refused. For a part of the way he was forced to
+mount a little poney in the dress of an Austrian officer. Arrived at the
+village of La Calade, the following extraordinary scene passed at the
+inn--It was also related to me by our banker, who had it from the
+hostess herself: The landlord was called for, and a mean-looking figure
+in plain clothes, with a travelling-cap, and loose blue pantaloons,
+asked him if he could have dinner for twenty persons who were coming.
+"Yes, (said the landlord), if you take what fare I have; but I trust it
+is not for that _coquin_ the Emperor, whom we expect soon here." "No,
+(said he), it is only for a part of his suite.--Bring here some wine,
+and let the people be well served when they arrive." Presently the
+landlady entered with the wine, a fine, bold Provençal, and a decided
+royalist, as all the Provençal snow are. [40]"Ecoutez, bonne femme, vous
+attendez l'Empereur n'est pas?" 'Oui, Monsieur, j'espere que nous le
+verrons?' "Eh bien, bonne femme, vous autres que dites vous de
+l'Empereur?" 'Qu'il est un grand coquin.' "Eh! ma bonne femme, et vous
+meme que dites vous?" 'Monsieur, voulez vous que je vous dise
+franchment ce que je pense: Si j'etais le capitaine du vaisseau, je ne
+l'embarquerai que pour le noyer."
+
+The stranger said nothing. After an hour or two, the landlord asked his
+wife if she would like to see Bonaparte, for that he was arrived. She
+was all anxiety to see him. He took her up stairs, and pointed to the
+little man in the travelling cap. The surprise of the woman may be
+conceived. The Emperor made her approach, and said to her she was a good
+woman; but that there were many things told of Bonaparte which were not
+true.
+
+I shall continue the Sub-Prefect's narrative in his own words:--[41]"Les
+Commissaires, en arrivant à Calade, le trouvoient la tête appuyée sur
+les deux mains, et le visage baignè de larmes. Il leur dit qu'on en
+voulait decidement à sa vie; que la maitresse de l'auberge, qui ne
+l'avait pas reconnu lui avait declaré que l'Empereur etait detesté comme
+un scelerat, et qu'on ne l'embarquerait que pour le noyer. Il ne
+voulait rien manger ni boire quelque instances qu'on lui fit, et
+quoiqu'il dut etre rassurè par l'example de ceux qui etaient a tablé
+avec lui. Il fit venir de la voiture du pain et de l'eau qu'il prit avec
+avidité. On attendait la nuit pour continuer la route; on n'etait qu'à
+deux lieues d'Aix. La population de cette ville n'eut pas eté aussi
+facile à contenir que celle des villages ou on avait deja couru tant de
+perils. Monsieur, le Sous-Prefét, prenant avec lui le Lieutenant des
+gend'armes et six gend'armes, se mit en route vers la Calade. La nuit
+etait obscure, et le temps froid; cette double circonstance protegea
+Napoleon beaucoup mieux que n'aurait fait la plus forte escorte. Mons.
+le Sous-Prefét et la gend'armerie rencontrerent le cortege peu
+d'instants apres avoir quitté la Calade, et la suivoient jusqu'à ce
+qu'ils arriverent aux portes d'Aix à deux heures du matin. Apres avoir
+changé les chevaux, Bonaparte continuant sa route, passa sous les murs
+de la ville, au milieu des cris repetés de "Vive le Roi," que firent
+entendre les habitants accourus sur les remparts. Il arriva a la limite
+du departement à une auberge appellee la Grande Prgere, ce fut là qu'il
+s'arreta pour dejeuner. Le General Bertrand proposa a Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét de monter, avant que de partir, dans la chambre des
+Commissaires ou tout le monde etait à dejeuner. Il y avoit dix ou douzes
+personnes. Napoleon etait du nombre; il avait son costume d'officier
+Autrichien, et une casque sur la tête. Voyant le Sous-Prefét an habit
+d'auditeur, il lui dit, "Vous ne m'auriez pas reconnu sons ce costume?
+Ce sont ces Messieurs qui me l'ont fait prendre, le jugeant necessaire à
+ma sureté. J'aurais pu avoir une escorte de trois mille homines, qui
+j'ai refusé, preferant de me fier à la loyauté Française. Je n'ai pas eu
+à me plaindre de cette confiance depuis Fontainbleau jusqu'à Avignon;
+mais depuis cette ville jusqu'ici j'ai eté insulté,--j'ai couru bien de
+dangers. Les Provençaux se dishonnerent. Depuis qui je suis en France je
+n'ai pas eu un bon battaillon de Provençeaux sous mes ordres. Ils ne
+sont bons que pour crier. Les Gascons sont fanfarons, mais au moins ils
+sont braves." Sur ces paroles, un des convives, qui etait sans dout
+Gascon, tira son jabot et dit en riant, "Cela fait plaisir."
+
+Bonaparte continuant à s'addresser an Sous-Prefét, lui dit, "Que fait le
+Prefét?" 'Il est parti à la premiere nouvelle du changement survenu à
+Paris.' "Et sa femme?" 'Elle etait partie plutôt.'--"Elle avait donc
+prit le devant. Paie l'on bien les octrois et les droits reunis?"--'Pas
+un sou.'--"Y-a-t-il beaucoup d'Anglais à Marseilles?" Ici Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét raconta à Bonaparte tout ce qui s'etait passè naguere dans
+ce port, et avec quels transports on avait accueilli les Anglais.
+Bonaparte, qui ne prenait pas grand plaisir à ce reçit y mit fin en
+disant au Sous-Prefét, "Dites à vos Provençaux que l'Empereur est bien
+mecontent d'eux."
+
+Arrivè a Bouilledon, il se s'enferma dans ua apartment avec sa sœur
+(Pauline Borghese)--Des sentinels furent places a la porte. Cependant
+des dames arriveés dans un galerie qui communiquait avec cette chambre,
+y trouverent un militaire en uniform d'officier Autrichien, qui leur
+dit, "Que desirez vous voir, Mesdames?" 'Nous voudrions voir Napoleon.'
+"Mais ce'st moi, Mesdames." Ces dames le regardant lui dirent en riant,
+'Vous plaisantez, Monsieur; ce n'est pas vous qui etes Napoleon.' "Je
+vous assure, Mesdames, ce'st moi. Vous vous imaginez donc que Napoleon
+avait l'air plus mechant. N'est pas qu'on dit que je suis un scelerat,
+un brigand?" Les dames n'eurent garde de le dementir, Bonaparte ne
+voulant pas trop les presser sur ce point detourna le conversation. Mais
+toujours occupé de sa premier idée, il y revint brasquement: "Convenez
+en Mesdames, leur dit il, maintenant que la Fortune m'est contraire, on
+dit que je suis un coquin, un scelerat, un brigand. Mais savez vous ce
+que c'est que tout cela? J'ai voula mettre la France au dessus de
+l'Angleterre, et j'ai echoué dans ce projet."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+STATE OF FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON--CONTINUED.
+
+
+AGRICULTURE.
+
+
+To one unacquainted with the present division of society, and the
+condition of each of its branches in France; to one who had only cast
+his eye, in travelling, over the immense tracts of cultivated land, with
+scarcely an acre of waste to diversify the scene, and who had permitted
+first impressions to influence his judgement, it might appear, that in
+agriculture, France far excelled every other country in the world. In
+England, we have immense tracts of common in many of the counties;--in
+Scotland; we have our barren hills, our mosses, and moors;--in America,
+the cultivation bears but a small proportion to the wilds, the swamps,
+and the forests. In our beautiful provinces in the East Indies, the
+cultivation forms but a speck in the wide extent of common, and forest,
+and jungle. Why should France furnish a different spectacle? Why should
+the face of the country there wear a continual smile, while its very
+heart is torn with faction, and its energies fettered by tyranny? There
+are many who maintain that this state of the country is the happy effect
+of the revolution; but it will, I conceive, not be difficult to shew,
+that though certainly a consequence of the great change, it is far from
+being a happy one. We surely would not pronounce it a happy state of
+things, where the interests of all other branches of the community were
+sacrificed to promote the welfare of the peasantry alone.
+
+The peasantry, no doubt, when their rights are preserved to them, as
+they are the most numerous, so they become the most important members of
+a civil society. "Although," as is well observed by Arthur Young, "they
+be disregarded by the superficial, or viewed with contempt by the vain,
+they will be placed, by those who judge of things not by their external
+appearance, but by their intrinsic worth, as the most useful class of
+mankind; their occupations conduce not only to the prosperity, but to
+the very existence of society; their life is one unvaried course of
+hardy exertion and persevering toil. The vigour of their youth is
+exhausted by labour, and what are the hopes and consolations of their
+age? Sickness may deprive them of the opportunity of providing the least
+supply for the declining years of life, and the gloomy confinement of a
+work-house, or the scanty pittance of parochial help, are their only
+resources. By their condition may be estimated the real prosperity of a
+country; the real opulence, strength, and security of the public are
+proportionate to the comfort which they enjoy, and their wretchedness is
+a _sure criterion of a bad administration_."
+
+I have quoted this passage at length, in order that I might shew that
+France supplies us in this case, as in many others, with a wide
+exception from those general rules in politics which time and experience
+had long sanctioned. We shall in vain look at the state of the peasantry
+of that country as affording a criterion of the situation of any other
+branch of the community. It did not remain concealed from the deep and
+penetrating eye of Napoleon, that if the peasantry of a country were
+supported, and their condition improved, any revolution might be
+effected; any measure, however tyrannical, provided it did not touch
+them, might be executed with ease. For the sake of the peasantry, we
+shall perceive that the yeomanry, the farmers, the _bourgeoisie_, the
+nobility, were allowed to dwindle into insignificance. His leading
+principle was never to interfere with their properties, however they may
+have been obtained; and he invariably found, that if permitted to enjoy
+these, they calmly submitted to taxation, furnished recruits for his
+conscription, and supported him in every measure.
+
+In tracing the causes and effects of the various revolutions which take
+place among civilized nations, political writers have paid too little
+attention to the effects of property. France affords us an interesting
+field for investigation on this interesting question; but the narrow
+limits of our work will not admit of our indulging in such speculations.
+We cannot, however, avoid remarking by the way, that the facility of
+effecting a revolution in the government of France, so often shewn of
+late, has arisen, in a great measure, from this state of the property
+of the peasantry. Under the revolution they gained this property, and
+they respected and supported the revolutionists. Under Napoleon, their
+property was respected, and they bore with him, and admired him. Louis
+commenced by encouraging them in the idea that their rights would be
+respected, and they remained quiet:--his Ministers commenced their plans
+of restoring to the noblesse their estates, and the King immediately
+lost the affections of the peasantry. They welcomed Napoleon a second
+time, because they knew his principles: They have again welcomed their
+King, because they are led to suppose that experience has changed the
+views of his Ministers: but they suspect him, and on the first symptom
+of another change they will join in his expulsion.
+
+The nobility, the great landed proprietors, the yeomanry, the lesser
+farmers, all the intermediate ranks who might oppose a check to the
+power of a tyrannical prince, are nearly annihilated. The property of
+these classes, but more particularly of the nobility, has been
+subdivided and distributed among the peasants; become their own, it has,
+no doubt, been much better managed, for it is their immediate interest
+that not an acre of waste ground should remain. They till it with their
+own hands, and, without any intermediate agents, they draw the profits.
+Lands thus managed, must, of course, be found in a very different state
+from those whose actual proprietor is perhaps never on the spot, who
+manages through stewards, bailiffs, and other agents, and whose rank
+prevents the possibility of his assisting, or even superintending, the
+labour of his peasantry.
+
+Having shewn the causes of the present appearance of France, we must
+describe the effects, by presenting to our readers the picture which was
+every where before our eyes in traversing the country. The improvement
+in agriculture, or to speak literally, in the method of tilling the
+soil, is by no means great. The description of the methods pursued, and
+of the routine of crops, given by Arthur Young, corresponds very exactly
+with what we saw. It may be observed, however, that the ploughing is
+rather more neat, and the harrowing more regular. To an English eye both
+of these operations would appear most superficial; but it ought to be
+considered, that here nature does almost every thing, little labour is
+necessary, and in many parts of the country manure is never used: but
+the defect in the quality of the cultivation is somewhat compensated by
+the quantity. Scarce an acre of land which would promise to reward the
+cultivator will be found untilled. The plains are covered with grain,
+and the most barren hills are formed into vineyards. And it will
+generally be found, that the finest grapes are the produce of the most
+dry, stony, and seemingly barren hills. It is in this extension of the
+cultivation that we trace the improvement; but there must also be some
+considerable change for the better, though not in the same degree, in
+the method of cultivation, which is demonstrated by the fact, that a
+considerable rise has taken place in the rent and price of land. In many
+places it has doubled within the last twenty-five years; an _arpent_ now
+selling for 1000 francs, which was formerly sold for 500.
+
+It is, however, extraordinary, that these improvements have, as yet,
+only shewn their influence in the dress of the peasantry, and no where
+in the comfort or neatness of their houses. Between Calais and Paris,
+their houses are better than we found them afterwards on our way to the
+south. In that direction, also, they were almost invariably well
+clothed, having over their other clothes (and not as a substitute for a
+coat) a sort of blue linen frock, which had an appearance of attention
+to dress, not to be seen in other parts of the country, for the
+peasantry in most other parts, though neatly clothed, presented, in the
+variety of their habits and costumes, a very novel spectacle. The large
+tails, which give them so military an appearance, and impress us with
+the idea that they have _marched_, are by no means a proof of this
+circumstance; for we were informed, that the first thing done in most
+instances, was to deprive the conscripts of their superabundant hair.
+But the long tail and the cocked hat, are worn in imitation of the
+higher orders of older time. It is indeed a sight of the most amusing
+kind to the English eye, to behold a French peasant at his work, in
+velvet coat and breeches, powdered hair, and a cocked hat. But we do not
+mean to give this as the usual dress of the peasants, although we have
+frequently met with it. Their dress is very often as plain, neat, and
+sufficient, as their houses are the reverse.
+
+In Picardy, the luxuriant fruit-trees which surround the cottages and
+houses, give an appearance of comfort, which is not borne out by the
+actual state of the houses on a nearer inspection. Near Laon, and
+towards the frontiers of French Flanders, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their dress was very neat, and their
+houses much more substantial, and, in some parts, ornament was added to
+strength. In this district, the people had the advantage of being
+employed in the linen manufacture in their own houses, besides their
+ordinary agricultural occupations; and their condition reminded us of
+the effects of this intermixture of occupations presented by a view of
+Clydesdale in Scotland, or of the West Riding of Yorkshire.
+
+Towards Fontainbleau, and to the east of Paris, on the road of Soissons,
+the peasantry inhabit the old villages, or rather little towns, and no
+cottages are to be seen on the lands. No gardens are attached to the
+houses in these towns. The houses have there an appearance of age, want
+of repair, and a complete stagnation of commerce. And even the peasantry
+there seemed considerably reduced, but they were always well dressed,
+and by no means answered Arthur Young's description. Still their houses
+denoted great want of comfort; very little furniture was to be seen, and
+that either of the very coarsest kind, or of the gaudy and gilded
+description, which shewed whence it came. The intermixture is hideous.
+In the parts of the country above named; the food often consisted of
+bread and pork, and was better than what we found in the south. But
+even here, the small number of pigs, the poor flocks of sheep, and,
+indeed, the absence of any species of pasture for cattle, demonstrated
+that there was not a general or extensive consumption of animal food or
+the produce of the dairy.
+
+The little demand for butcher meat, or the produce of pasture, is
+probably, as Arthur Young has hinted, one great cause of the continuance
+of the fallow system of husbandry in France; for where there is no
+consumption of these articles, it is impossible that a proper rotation
+of crops can be introduced.
+
+In noticing the causes of the decided improvement in the condition of
+the peasantry, we may observe in passing, that the great consumption of
+human life, during the revolution, and more particularly under
+Napoleon's conscription, must have considerably bettered the condition
+of those who remained, and who were able for work, by increasing the
+price of labour.
+
+The industry of the peasants in every part of the country, cannot be
+sufficiently praised--it as remarkable as the apathy and idleness of
+tradesmen and artificers. Every corner of soil is by them turned to
+account, and where they have gardens, they are kept very neat. The
+defects in the cultivation arise, therefore, from the goodness of the
+climate, the ignorance or poverty of the cultivators, or from inveterate
+prejudice.
+
+We must now say a few words with regard to the state of agriculture and
+the condition of the peasantry between Paris and Aix, and more
+especially in the south of France. Here also every acre of land is
+turned to good account, but the method of tilling the land is very
+defective. The improvements in agriculture, in modern times, will be
+found to owe their origin to men of capital, of education, and of
+liberal ideas, and such men are not to be found here. The prejudices and
+the poverty of their ancestors, have not ceased to have their effects in
+the present generation, in retarding the improvement in the tillage, and
+in the farm instruments. They are, in this respect, at least a century
+behind us. From the small subdivisions in many parts of the country,
+each family is enabled to till its own little portion with the spade;
+and where the divisions are larger, and ploughs used, they will
+invariably be found rude, clumsy, enormous masses of wood and iron, weak
+from the unskilfulness of the workmanship, continuing from father to son
+without improvement, because improvement would not only injure their
+purses, but give a deadly wound to that respect and veneration which
+they have for the good old ways of their ancestors. There is endless
+variety in the shape and size of the French plough; but amid the
+innumerable kinds of them, we never had the good fortune to meet one
+good or sufficient instrument.
+
+The use of machinery in the farm-stead is unknown, and grain, as of old,
+is very generally trodden by oxen, sometimes on the sides of the high
+roads, and winnowed by the breath of Heaven.
+
+In the south of France, we met with much more regular enclosure than
+around Paris; but even here, little attention is bestowed in keeping the
+fences in repair. Hedges are, however, less necessary in the south than
+elsewhere; for there is a complete want of live stock of every
+description, and no attention paid to the breeding of it. This want does
+not strike the traveller immediately, because he finds butcher meat
+pretty good in the small towns; excellent in the larger cities, and
+cheap everywhere. But he will find, that France is, in this respect,
+much in the same state with India. Animal food is cheap, because the
+consumption is very limited. In France, but more particularly in the
+south, I should say that not one-sixth of the butcher meat is consumed
+by each man or woman which would be requisite in England. Bread, wine,
+fruit, garlic, onions and oil, with occasionally a small portion of
+animal food, form the diet of the lower orders; and among the higher
+ranks, the method of cooking makes a little meat go a great way. The
+immense joints of beef and mutton, to which we are accustomed in
+England, were long the wonder of the French; but latterly, they have
+begun to introduce (among what they humorously term _plats de
+resistance_) these formidable dishes.
+
+Excepting in the larger towns, butcher meat, particularly beef and
+mutton, is generally ill fed. In the part of the south, where we resided
+during the winter, the beef was procured from Lyons, a distance of above
+200 miles. In the south, the breed of cattle of every description is
+small and stinted, and unless when pampered up for the market, they are
+generally very poor and ill fed. The traveller is everywhere struck with
+the difference between the English and French horses, cows, pigs, sheep,
+&c. and in more than the half of France, he will find, for the reasons
+formerly assigned, an almost total want of attention to these useful
+animals among the farmers. At Aix, where we were situated, there was
+only one cow to be found. Our milk was supplied by goats and sheep; and
+all the butter consumed there, excepting a very small quantity made from
+goat's milk, was also brought from Lyons. This want is not so much felt
+in Provence; because, for their cookery, pastry, &c. they use olive oil,
+which, when fresh, is very pleasant.
+
+The want of barns, sheds, granaries, and all other farm buildings, is
+very conspicuous in the south. The dairy is there universally neglected,
+and milk can only be had early in the morning, and then in very small
+quantity; nay, the traveller may often journey a hundred miles in the
+south of France without being able to procure milk at all; this we
+ourselves experienced. The eye is nowhere delighted with the sight of
+rich and flourishing farm-steads, nor do the abundant harvests of France
+make any shew in regular farm-yards. All the wealth of the peasantry is
+concealed. Each family hides the produce of their little estate within
+their house. An exhibition of their happy condition would expose them to
+immediate spoliation from the tax-officers. In our own happy country,
+the rich farm-yard, the comfortable dwelling-house of the farmer, and
+the neat smiling cottage of the labourer, call down on the possessors
+only the applause and approbation of his landlord, of his neighbours,
+and of strangers. They raise him in the general opinion. In France, they
+would prove his ruin.
+
+To conclude these few observations on the state of agriculture, we may
+remark, that the revolution has certainly tended greatly to promote the
+extension of the cultivation, by throwing the property of the lands into
+the hands of the peasantry, who are the actual cultivators, and also by
+removing the obstructions occasioned by the seignorial rights, the
+titles, game laws, corveès; yet I think there cannot be a doubt, that,
+aided by capital, and by the more liberal ideas of superior farmers
+benefiting by the many new and interesting discoveries in modern
+agriculture, France might, without that terrible convulsion, have shewn
+as smiling an aspect, and the science of agriculture been much further
+advanced.
+
+If, by the revolution, the situation of the peasantry be improved, we
+must not forget, on the other hand, that to effect this improvement, the
+nobility, gentry, yeomanry, and, we might almost add, farmers, have been
+very generally reduced to beggary. The restraint which the existence of
+these orders ever opposed to the power of a bad king, of a tyrant, or of
+an adventurer, might have remained, and all have been happier, better,
+and richer than they are now.
+
+* * *
+
+
+_COMMERCE._
+
+It was probably the first wish of Napoleon's heart, as it was also his
+wisest policy, that the French should become entirely a military, not a
+commercial nation. Under his government, the commerce of France was
+nearly annihilated. It was however necessary, that at times he should
+favour the commercial interest of the towns in the interior, from which
+he drew large supplies of money, and his constant enmity against the
+sea-port towns of Marseilles and Bourdeaux, induced him to encourage the
+interior commerce of France, to the prejudice of the maritime trade of
+these ports. Under Napoleon, Paris, Lyons, Rouen, and most of the large
+towns which carried on this interior commerce, were lately in a
+flourishing state. In these towns, if not beloved, he was at least
+tolerated, and they wished for no change of government. But at
+Marseilles, and at Bourdeaux, he was detested, and a very strong
+royalist party existed, which caused him constant annoyance. At
+Bourdeaux, it may be recollected, that the Bourbons were received with
+open arms, and that that town was the first to open its gates to the
+allies. It was also among the last that held out. I was in that town
+while the royalist party were still powerful, while every thing shewed a
+flourishing commerce, while the people were happy; the wine trade was
+daily enriching the inhabitants, and they blessed the return of peace,
+and of their lawful princes. In two days the face of things was changed.
+A party of soldiers, 300 strong, were dispatched by Napoleon, under the
+command of General Clausel. The troops of the line here, as everywhere
+else, betrayed their trust, and joined the rebels, and Bourdeaux was
+delivered up to the spoiler.
+
+Never was there a more melancholy spectacle than that now afforded by
+the inhabitants of this city. You could not enter a shop where you did
+not find the owners in tears. We were then all hastening to leave
+France. They embraced us, and prayed that our army might soon be among
+them to restore peace and the Bourbons. Here I am convinced that
+Bonaparte is hated by all but the military. Yet what could a town like
+Bourdeaux effect, when its own garrison betrayed it?
+
+Besides the bad effects of Bonaparte's policy on the commerce of France,
+I must notice the wide influence of another cause, which was the natural
+result of the revolution. Although at first an attack was only made
+against the noblesse, yet latterly, every rich and powerful family was
+included among the proscribed, and all the commercial houses of the
+first respectability were annihilated. These have never been replaced,
+and the upstart race of petty traders have not yet obtained the
+confidence of foreigners. The trade of France is therefore very
+confined; and even were opportunities now afforded of establishing a
+trade with foreign nations, it would be long before France could benefit
+by it, from the total want of established and creditable houses.
+
+The manifest signs of the decay of commerce in France cannot escape the
+observation of the traveller, more especially if he has been in the
+habit of travelling in England. The public diligences are few in number,
+and most miserably managed. It is difficult to say whether the
+carriage, the horses, or the harness, gives most the idea of meanness.
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of large towns, you meet with not a cart,
+or waggon, for twenty that the same distance would show in England. The
+roads are indeed excellent in most parts; but this is not in France, as
+in most countries, a proof of a flourishing commerce. It is for the
+conveyance of military stores, and to facilitate the march of the
+troops, that the police are required to keep the roads in good repair.
+The villages and towns throughout France, are in a state of dilapidation
+from want of repair. No new houses, shops, and warehouses building, as
+we behold every where in England. None of that hurry and bustle in the
+streets, and on the quays of the sea-port towns, which our blessed
+country can always boast. The dress of the people, their food, their
+style of living, their amusements, their houses, all bespeak extreme
+poverty and want of commerce.
+
+I was at some pains in ascertaining whether, in many of their
+manufactures, they were likely to rival us or injure our own.--I cannot
+say I have found one of consequence. There are indeed one or two
+articles partially in demand among us, in which the French have the
+superiority; silks, lace, gloves, black broad cloth, and cambric are
+the chief among them. The woollen cloths in France are extremely
+beautiful, and the finer sorts, I think, of a superior texture to any
+thing we have in England; but the price is always double, and sometimes
+treble of what they sell for at home, so that we have not much to fear
+from their importations. Few of the French can afford to wear these fine
+cloths.
+
+French watches are manufactured at about one half of the English price;
+but the workmanship is very inferior to ours, and unless as trinkets for
+ladies' wear, they do not seem much in estimation in England. The
+cutlery in France is wretched. Not only the steel, but the temper and
+polish, are far inferior to ours. A pair of English razors is, to this
+day, a princely present in France. Hardware is flimsy, ill finished, and
+of bad materials. All leather work, such as saddlery, harness, shoes,
+&c. is wretchedly bad, but undersells our manufactures of the same kind
+by about one half. Cabinet work and furniture is handsome, shewy,
+insufficient, and dear. Jewellery equal, if not superior to ours in
+neatness, but not so sufficient. Hats and hosiery very indifferent. In
+glass ware we greatly excel the French, except in the manufacture of
+mirrors. Musical instruments of all descriptions are made as well, and
+at half the English price, in France. In every thing else, not here
+mentioned, as far as my memory serves me, I think I may report the
+manufactures of France greatly inferior to those in England. I have
+sometimes heard it stated, that in the manufacture of calicoes, muslins,
+and other cotton goods, the French are likely to rival us. On this
+subject I was not able to obtain the information I wished for, but one
+fact I can safely mention, the price of all these goods is at present,
+in most parts of France, nearly double what it is in England or
+Scotland, and their machinery is not to be compared with our own.
+
+* * *
+
+_WEALTH OF THE NATION AND ITS DIVISION._
+
+To the traveller in France, every thing seems to denote extreme poverty,
+and that extending its influence over all ranks of society; and
+certainly, compared with England, France is wretchedly poor. But many of
+its resources remain hidden, and it is certain, that on the demands of
+its despotic ruler, France produced unlooked-for supplies. His wars have
+now greatly exhausted this hidden treasure, and there is, fortunately
+for the peace of the world, very little money left in the country. The
+marks of the wealth of the country, both absolutely, and in relation to
+other countries, are to be found in the manner of living, and extent of
+fortunes of its inhabitants; in the size, comfort, and style of their
+houses; in their dress and amusements; in the price of labour; the
+salaries of office; the trade and commerce of the country; the number of
+country houses, of banks, &c. In examining each of these heads, we shall
+find that France is a very poor country.
+
+The sum of two thousand pounds a-year is reckoned a noble fortune in
+France, and very, very few, there are that possess that sum.
+
+One thousand pounds a-year constitutes a handsome fortune for a
+gentleman; and four hundred for a _bourgeois_, or for one employed in
+trade or commerce. Few of the nobility are now possessed of fortunes
+sufficient to maintain a carriage; and none under the rank of princes,
+in France, have _now_ more than one carriage.
+
+The style of living is wretched: only the first, and richest houses, can
+afford to entertain company, and those but seldom. It requires a large
+fortune to maintain a regular cook; in half the houses they have only a
+dirty scullion, who, among her other work, cooks the dinner. In the
+other half, a traiteur sends in the dinner; or if a bachelor, the master
+of the house dines at a _table d'hôte_, as a _pensionaire_.
+
+The interior management of the French houses denotes extreme poverty.
+Some few articles of splendid furniture are displayed for shew in one or
+two rooms, while the rest of the house is shut up, and left dirty and
+ill furnished.
+
+Of their dress and amusements I have already said enough, to shew that
+they denote poverty, and I shall say more when I come to the French
+character.
+
+The price of labour is far lower than what we are used to, fluctuating
+from fifteen to twenty pence a-day. The salaries of office are,
+throughout France, not above one-third what they are in England. Of the
+want of trade and commerce I have already spoken. The public banks are
+very few in number, and only to be found in very large and commercial
+towns. Country houses and fine estates, there are none, or where they
+are found, it is in a state of dilapidation.
+
+Where, then, is the wealth of France? I was at some pains to solve this
+question. The remaining wealth of France is divided among the generals
+of Napoleon; the army furnishers and contractors; the prefects,
+sub-prefects; the numerous receivers and collectors of taxes; and,
+lastly, but chiefly, the peasantry. It may appear strange to those who
+are not acquainted with the present state of France, that I have
+mentioned the peasants among the richest; but I am convinced of the
+fact. The peasants in France have divided among themselves the lands and
+property of the emigrants. Napoleon drew supplies from them; but very
+politically maintained them in their possessions. Their condition, and
+the condition of the lands, shew them to be in easy circumstances. They
+are well clothed, and abundantly, though poorly fed.
+
+France is, in fine, a very poor country, compared with our own; but it
+is not without resources, and its wealth will remain concealed as long
+as it is under Napoleon; for whoever shewed wealth, was by him marked
+out as an object of plunder. By allowing unlimited power to his
+emissaries and spies, he was able to discover where the wealth lay, and
+by vesting the same power in his prefects, sub-prefects, receivers, and
+gend'armes, he seized on it when discovered. In the public prints,
+previous to his downfall, we may observe almost continually the thanks
+of Government to the farmers, proprietors, and others, for _their
+patriotic exertions in supplying horses, grain, &c._ In these cases, the
+_patriotic farmers_ had bands of gend'armerie stationed over them, who
+drove away their horses, their cattle and grain, without the hope even
+of payment or redress of any kind. Nothing denotes more the poverty of
+the country, than the want of horses, of cows, and all kinds of live
+stock.
+
+In no country in the world is there found so great a number of beggars
+as in France; and yet there are not wanting in every town establishments
+for the maintenance of the poor. These beggars are chiefly from among
+the manufacturing classes; the families of soldiers and labourers. The
+peasants are seldom reduced to this state, or when reduced, they are
+succoured by their fellow peasants, and do not beg publicly. The
+national poverty has had the worst effects on the French character; in
+almost every station in life they will be found capable of meanness.
+What can be more disgusting, than to see people of fashion and family
+reduced to the necessity of letting to strangers their own rooms, and
+retiring into garrets and other dirty holes--demanding exorbitant
+prices, and with perfect indifference taking half or a third--higgling
+for every article they purchase--standing in dirty wrappers at their
+doers, seeing the wood weighed in the street, on terms of familiarity
+with tradesmen and their own servants. All this you see in France daily;
+but on this subject I have elsewhere made observations.
+
+As connected with this part of the subject, a few words must be said on
+the condition of the towns and villages; for although I had at first
+intended to treat this, and the situation of the different ranks, as
+separate subjects; yet they seem to come in more naturally at present,
+when speaking of the wealth of France and its division. The towns
+throughout France, as well as the villages, particularly in the south,
+have an appearance of decay and dilapidation. The proprietors have not
+the means of repair. It is customary (I suppose from the heat of the
+climate), to build the houses very large; to repair a French house,
+therefore, is very expensive: and it will generally be seen, that in
+most, houses only one or two rooms are kept in repair, and furnished,
+while the rest of the house is crumbling to pieces. This is the case
+with all the great houses; in those of the common people we should
+expect more comfort, as they are small, and do not need either expensive
+repair or gay furniture; but comfort is unknown in France. On entering a
+small house in one of the villages, we find the people huddled together
+as they are said to do in some parts of England and Scotland. Men,
+women, dogs, cats, pigs, goats, &c.--no glass in the windows--doors
+shattered--truckle-beds--a few earthen pots; and with all this filth, we
+find, perhaps, half a dozen velvet or brocade covered chairs; a broken
+mirror, or a marble slab-table; these are the articles plundered in
+former days of terror and revolution. All caffés and hotels in the
+villages are thus furnished.
+
+The streets in almost every town in France are without pavement. Would
+any one believe, that in the great city, as the French call it, there is
+a total want of this convenience? On this subject, Mercier, in his
+Tableaux de Paris, has this remark: [42]"Dès qu'on est sur le pavè de
+Paris, ou voit que le peuple n'y fait pas les loix;--aucune commoditè
+pour les gens de pied--point de trottoirs--le peuple semble un corps
+separè des autres ordres de l'etat--les riches et les grands qui ont
+equipage ont le droit de l'ecraser ou de le mutiler dans les rues--cent
+victimes expirent par annee sous les rues des voiture."
+
+Besides the want of pavement to protect us from the carriages, and to
+keep our feet dry, we have to encounter the mass of filth and dirt,
+which the nastiness of the inhabitants deposits, and which the police
+suffers to remain. The state of Edinburgh in its worst days, as
+described by our English neighbours, was never worse than what you meet
+with in France. The danger of walking the streets at night is very
+great, and the perfumes of Arabia do not prevail in the morning.
+
+The churches in all the villages are falling to ruin, and in many
+instances are converted into granaries, barracks, and hospitals;
+manufacturing establishments are also in ruins, scarcely able to
+maintain their workmen; their owners have no money for the repair of
+their buildings. The following description of the changes that have
+taken place in the French villages, is better than any thing I can give;
+and from what I have seen, it is perfectly correct:
+
+[43]"Avant la revolution, le village se composait de quatre mille
+habitans. Il fournissait pour sa part, au service general de l'Eglise et
+des hopitaux, ainsi qu'aux besoins de l'instruction cinq eclesiastiques,
+deux sœurs de la charité, et trois maitres d'ecol. Ces derniers sont
+remplacé par un maitre d'equitation, un maitre de dessin et deux maitres
+de musique. Sur huit fabriques d'etoffes de laisne et de coton, il ne
+reste plus qu'une seule. En revanche il s'est etabli deux caffés, un
+tabaque, un restaurat, et un billiard qui prosperent d'une maniere
+surprenante. On comptait autrefois quarante charretiers de labour;
+vingt-cinq d'entre eux sont devenus couriers, piqueurs, et cochès. Ce
+vuide est remplie par autant de femmes, qui dirigent la charette et qui
+pour se delasser de tems en tems menent au marché des voitures de paille
+ou de charbon. Le nombre de charpentiers, de maçons, et d'autres
+artisans est diminué à peu pres de moitie. Mais le prix de tout les
+genres de main d'œuvre ayant aussi augmenté de moitie--cela revient au
+meme--et la compensation se retablit. Une espece d'individus que le
+village fournit en grande abondance, et dans des proportions trop
+fortes ce sont les domestiques de luxe et de livrée. Pour peu que cela
+dure on achevera de depeupler le campagne de gens utiles qui le
+cultivent pour peupler les villes d'individus oisifs et corrompus.
+Beaucoup de femmes et de jeunes filles, qui n'etaient que des
+couturiers, et des servantes de femmes, ont aussi trouvè de l'avancement
+dans la capitale, et dans les grandes villes. Elles sont devenues femmes
+de chambre--brodeuses--et marchandes des modes. On dirait que le luxe a
+entreprit de pomper la jeunesse; toutes les idèes et tous les regards
+sont tournès vers lui à aucun epoque anterieure le contingent du village
+en hommes de loi--huissiers--etudiants en droits, mediçins, poetes et
+artistes, ne s'etait eleve au dela de trois ou quatre; il s'eleve
+maintenant à soixante deux, et une chose qu'on n'aurait jamais su
+imaginer autrefois c'est qu'il y a dans le nombre autant de peintres, de
+poetes, de comediens, de danseuses de theatre et de musiciens ambulans,
+qu'une ville de quatre vingt mille hommes aurait pu en fournir il y a
+trente ou quarante ans."
+
+Another mark of the poverty of France at present occurs to me: In every
+town, but particularly in the large cities, we are struck with numbers
+of idle young men and women who are seen in the streets. Now that the
+army no longer carries away the "surplus population of France," (to use
+the language of Bonaparte), the number of these idlers is greatly
+increased. The great manufacturing concerns have long ceased to employ
+them. France is too poor to continue the public works which Napoleon had
+every where begun. The French have no money for the improvement of their
+estates, the repair of their houses, or the encouragement of the
+numerous trades and professions which thrive by the costly taste and
+ever-varying fashion of a luxurious and rich community. Being on the
+subject of taste and fashion, I must not forget that I noticed the dress
+and amusements of the French as offering a mark of their poverty. The
+great meanness of their dress must particularly strike every English
+traveller; for I believe there is no country in the world where all
+ranks of people are so well dressed as in England. It is not indeed
+astonishing to see the nobility, the gentry, and those of the liberal
+professions well clothed, but to see every tradesman, and every
+tradesman's apprentice, wearing the same clothes as the higher orders;
+to see every servant as well, if not better clothed than his master,
+affords a clear proof of the riches of a country. In the higher ranks
+among the French, a gentleman has indeed a good suit of clothes, but
+these are kept for wearing in the evening on the promenade, or at a
+party. In the morning, clothes of the coarsest texture, and often much
+worn, or even ragged, are put on. If you pay a lady or gentleman a
+morning visit, you find them so metamorphosed as scarcely to be known;
+the men in dirty coarse cloth great coats, wide sackcloth trowsers and
+slippers; the women in coarse calico wrappers, with a coloured
+handkerchief tied round their hair. All the little gaudy finery they
+possess is kept for the evening, but even then there is nothing either
+costly or elegant, or neat, as with us. In their amusements also is the
+poverty of the people manifested. A person residing in Paris, and who
+had travelled no further, would think that this observation was unjust,
+for in Paris there is no want of amusements; the theatres are numerous,
+and all other species of entertainment are to be found. But in the
+smaller towns, one little dirty theatre, ill lighted, with ragged
+scenery, dresses, and a beggarly company of players, is all that is to
+be found. The price of admittance is also very low. The poverty of the
+people will not admit of the innumerable descriptions of amusements
+which we find in every little town in England: amateur concerts are
+sometimes got up, but for want of funds they seldom last long. My
+subscription to one of these at the town where we resided, was five
+francs per month, or about a shilling each concert. This may be taken as
+a specimen of the price of French amusements.
+
+
+_STATE OF RELIGION_.
+
+THE order of the priesthood in France had suffered greatly in the
+revolution. They were everywhere scouted and reviled, either for being
+supporters of the throne, or for being rich, or for being _moderès_.
+Napoleon found them in this condition; he never more than tolerated
+them, and latterly, by his open attack and cruel treatment of their
+chief, he struck the last and severest blow against the church. Unable
+to bear the insults of the military, deprived of the means of support,
+many of the clergy either emigrated or concealed themselves. In the
+principal towns, indeed, the great establishments took the oath of
+allegiance to the tyrant; but the inferior clergy and the country
+curates met nowhere with encouragement, and were allowed to starve, or
+to pick up a scanty pittance by teaching schools in a community who
+laughed at education, at morality, and religion.
+
+Many of the churches, convents, and monasteries were demolished; many
+were converted into barracks, storehouses, and hospitals. We saw but
+_one_ village church in our travels through France, and even in the
+larger towns we found the places of public worship in a state of
+dilapidation. I went to see the palace of the Archbishop at Aix; out of
+a suite of most magnificent rooms, about 30 in number, _one miserable
+little chamber was furnished for his highness_. In the rest, the
+grandeur of former days was marked by the most beautiful tapestry on
+some part of the walls, while other parts had been laid bare and daubed
+over with caps of liberty, and groupes of soldiers and guillotines, and
+indecent inscriptions. The nitches for statues, and the frames of
+pictures, were seen empty. The objects which formerly filled them were
+dashed to pieces or burnt.
+
+The conduct of the people at the churches marked the low state of
+religion: the higher ranks talked in whispers, and even at times loudly,
+on their family concerns, their balls and concerts. The peasantry and
+lower ranks behaved with more decency, but seemed to think the service a
+mere form; they came in at all hours, and staid but a few minutes; went
+out and returned.
+
+We had in our small society some very respectable clergymen; but I am
+sorry to say, we had one instance shewing the immoral tendency of the
+celibacy of the clergy.
+
+Very few of the convents remain. I have detailed our visit to one of
+them in my journal; we found every thing decent and well conducted, but
+not with any thing like the strictness and rigour we expected. At Aix
+there was a small establishment of Ursulines, a very strict order; there
+was also a penitentiary establishment of Magdalenes, the rules of which
+were said by the people of Aix to be of the most inhuman nature. The
+caterers for the establishment were ordered to buy only spoilt
+provisions for food; fasting was prescribed for weeks together; and the
+miserable young women lay on boards a foot in breadth, with scarce any
+clothing. Their whole dress, when they went out, consisted of a shift
+and gown of coarsest hard blanket stuff. They were employed in educating
+young children. I once met a party of them walking out with their
+charges, who were chanting hymns and decorating these miserable walking
+skeletons with flowers.
+
+We had also at Aix a very celebrated preacher named De Coq. I went to
+hear him, and, though much struck with his fluency of language, did not
+much admire his style of preaching; there was too much of cant and
+declamation, and at times he made a most intolerable noise, roaring as
+if he were addressing an army. This man, however, succeeded in drawing
+tears from the audience; but this did not surprise me, for it is
+astonishing how easily this is accomplished. This reminds me of a scene
+which I witnessed one evening at the theatre at Aix. We were seated next
+an old Marquise with whom we were acquainted. The tragedy of Meropè, and
+particularly the part of the son Egistus, was butchered in a very
+superior style; the Marquise turned to my sister, and said to her, "Oh
+how touching! how does it happen that it does not make you cry? But you
+shall see me cry in a minute; I shall just think of my poor son whom
+Napoleon took for the conscription." She then by degrees worked herself
+up into a fit of tears, and really cried for a pretty tolerable space of
+time. A most amusing soliloquy took place at our house the night before
+the national guard left Aix, in pursuit of Bonaparte. This lady came to
+pay us a visit; and after crying very prettily, she exclaimed, "Oh, the
+_barbare_, he has taken away my son--he has ruined my concert which I
+had fixed for Thursday--we were to have had such music!--and Jule, my
+son, was to have sung; but Jule is gone, perhaps to----_Oh, mon Dieu!
+mon Dieu!_--and I had laid out three hundred pounds in repairing my
+houses at Marseilles, and not one of them will now be let--and I had
+engaged Ciprè (a fiddler), for Thursday; and we should have been so
+happy."--But this is a most extraordinary episode to introduce when
+talking of the state of religion.
+
+Some measures taken latterly by the King, seem to have been but ill
+received by the French, and they then shewed how little attention they
+were inclined to pay to religious restraints, which were at variance
+with their interests and their pleasures: I allude to the shutting of
+the theatres and the shops on Sunday. Perhaps, considering the nature of
+their religion, and the long habit which had sanctioned the devoting of
+this day to amusement, the measure was too hasty. Certain it is, that
+neither this measure, nor the celebration of the death of Louis XVI. did
+any good to the Bourbon cause. The last could not fail to awaken many
+disagreeable feelings of remorse and of shame: It was a kind of
+punishment to all who had in any way joined in that horrid event. At
+Aix, the solemn ceremony was repeatedly interrupted by the noise of the
+military. We remarked one man in particular, who continued laughing,
+and beating his musket on the ground. On leaving the church, our
+landlord told us, he was one of those who had led one of the Marseilles
+bands at that time; and that there were in that small community, who had
+assembled in church, more than five or six others of the same
+description. How many of these men must there have been in all France
+whose feelings, long laid asleep, were awakened by such a ceremony!
+
+
+_ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE_.
+
+NAPOLEON'S greatest ambition was to inter-meddle with everything in the
+kingdom. With most of the changes which his restless spirit has
+produced, the French have no great reason to be satisfied; but all
+agree, that with regard to the administration of justice, and the
+courts, for the trial of civil suits in France, the alterations which he
+has introduced, have been ultimately of essential benefit to the
+country. Previous to his accession to the government, the sources of
+equity were universally contaminated, and the influence of corruption
+most deeply felt in every part of the constitution of their courts. On
+the accession of Napoleon to the throne, the most respectable and able
+men among the judges and magistrates were continued in their
+appointments, and the vacancies, occasioned by the dismission of those
+found guilty of corruption, (many of whom had, during the confusions of
+the revolution, actually seized their situations), were supplied, in
+frequent instances, by those of the older nobility, whose characters and
+principles were known and respected. In addition to this, the civil and
+the criminal codes were both carefully revised. In this revisal, the
+greatest legal talents in the nation were employed. The laws of
+different nations, more particularly of England, were brought to
+contribute in the formation of a new code; and by a compilation from the
+Roman, the French and the English law, a new institute, or body of civil
+and criminal justice, was formed, intended for the regulation of the
+whole kingdom. Previous to this change, it must be observed, that the
+laws, in the different provinces of the kingdom, were in some measure
+formed _upon_, and always interwoven _with_, the particular observances
+and customs of their respective provinces; the inevitable consequence
+was, that every province, possessing different usages, had also a
+different code. [44]"La bizarrerie des loix," says Mercier, "et la
+varieté des coutumes font que l'avocat le plus savant devient un ignore
+des qu'il se trouve en Gasgogne, ou en Normandie. Il perd a Vernon, un
+procés qu'il avoit gagné a Poissy. Prenez le plus habile pour la
+consultation, et la plaidoyerie, eh bien, il sera obligé d'avoir son
+avocat et son procureur, si on lui intente un proces dans le resort de
+la plupart des autres parlemens." The consequence of this was an
+uncertainty, intricacy, and want of any thing like regulating principles
+in the laws, and an incoherency and inconsistency in the administration
+of both civil and criminal justice.
+
+The improvements introduced by the late Emperor, have therefore,
+considered under this point of view, been of no common benefit to the
+kingdom, as they have given, to some measure, certainty, principle and
+consistency, the essential attributes of good laws, to what was
+formerly a mass of confusion.
+
+At Aix, where we resided, the head court is held for four provinces, and
+there is a college for the study of law and divinity. Most of the
+acquaintances I there formed were gentlemen belonging to the law; many
+of them had been liberally educated, were men of talents, and some of
+them possessed acquirements which would have done honour to any bar. The
+opinion of all these was strongly in favour of the new codes; and they
+go so far as to say, that when the matter comes under consideration,
+there are very few things which the present government will change, and
+very few judges who will lose their situations.
+
+They allowed, however, that latterly, Napoleon had forgotten his usual
+moderation, and, incensed against the importation of foreign
+merchandise, had instituted a court, and formed a new and most rigorous
+code for the trial of all cases of smuggling and contraband trade. But
+fortunately for the people, this court had scarcely commenced its severe
+inflictions, when the deposition of Napoleon, and the subsequent peace
+with England, rendered its continuance unnecessary. The punishments
+awarded by this court, were, in their rigour, infinitely more terrible
+than that of any other in Europe. There was not the slightest
+proportionment of the punishment to the offence. For the sale of the
+smallest proportion of contraband goods, the unfortunate culprit was
+condemned immediately to eight or ten years labour amongst the
+galley-slaves. For the weightier offences, the importation of larger
+quantities of forbidden goods, perpetual labour, and even death, were
+not unfrequently pronounced.
+
+I was informed, that when Napoleon commanded the Senate to pass the
+decree for the institution of this court, one of the members asked him,
+if he believed he would find Frenchmen capable of executing his orders,
+and enforcing such laws? His answer was, "my salaries will soon find
+judges;" and the consequence of this determination, upon his part, was,
+that while he paid the judges of the other tribunals at Aix by a
+miserable annuity of one hundred and fifty pounds, and two hundred
+pounds, the judges of the court of contraband were ordered to receive
+seven hundred pounds and eight hundred pounds. Napoleon was perfectly
+right in his opinion; that such was the want of honour and principle,
+and such the excessive poverty of France, that these salaries would soon
+find judges. I have heard from unquestionable authority, that, for the
+last vacancy which was filled up in that court, there were ten
+candidates.
+
+The court-room, in which this law tribunal was held, is now occupied by
+a society of musical amateurs, and a concert was given there, during our
+stay at Aix, once every week. One of the lawyers, in talking of this
+court, informed me, that in that very room, where the judges of the
+court of contraband sat, he had played in comedy and tragedy, pleaded
+causes, had taken his part in concerts, and danced at balls, under its
+several revolutions, its different political phases of a theatre, a
+court of justice, a concert and a ball-room. Exactly similar to this was
+the fate of the churches, palaces, and the houses of individuals under
+Napoleon, which were alternately barracks, hospitals, stables, courts of
+justice, _caffés, restaurats_, &c.
+
+The penal code of the late Emperor breathes throughout a spirit of
+humanity, which must astonish every one acquainted with his character.
+The punishment of death, which, according to Blackstone, may be
+inflicted by the English law in one hundred and sixty different
+offences, is now in France confined to the very highest crimes only; the
+number of which does not exceed twelve. A minute attention has been
+paid to the different degrees of guilt in the commission of the same
+crime; and according to these, the punishments are as accurately
+proportioned as the cases will permit. One species of capital punishment
+has been ordained instead of that multitude of cruel and barbarous
+deaths which were marshalled in terrible array along the columns of the
+former code. This punishment is decapitation. The only exception to this
+is in the case of parricide, in which, previous to decapitation, the
+right hand is cut off; and in the punishment for high-treason, in which
+the prisoner is made to walk barefoot, and with a crape veil over his
+head to the scaffold, where he is beheaded. Torture was abolished by
+Louis XVI., and has never afterwards been resumed.
+
+After Napoleon had it in view to form a new code for France, he was at
+great pains to collect together the most upright and honourable, as well
+as the most able amongst the French lawyers; the principal members of
+whom were Tronchet, one of the counsel who spoke boldly and openly in
+defence of the unfortunate Louis XVI., Portalis, Malville, and Bigot de
+Preameneau. Under such superintendance, the work was finished in a short
+time.
+
+The trial by jury has been for some time established in France; but the
+Emperor, dreading that so admirable an institution, if managed with an
+impartial hand might, in too serious a manner, impose restraint upon his
+individual despotism, took particular care to subject those crimes,
+which he dreaded might arise out of the feelings of the public, to the
+cognisance of special tribunals. All trials originating out of the
+conscription, are placed under the care of a special court, composed of
+a certain number of the criminal judges and military officers. In
+France, there is no grand jury; but its place is supplied by that which
+they have denominated the _Juré d'Accusation_. This is a court composed
+of a few members amongst the civil judges, assisted by the
+Procureur-General or Attorney-General. Their juries for the trial of
+criminals are selected from much higher classes in society than with us
+in England; a circumstance the effect of absolute necessity, owing to
+the extreme ignorance of the middling ranks and the lower classes. In
+the conducting of criminal trials, the manner of procedure is in a great
+measure different from our English form. A criminal, when first
+apprehended, is carried, before the magistrate of the town, generally
+the Mayor. He there undergoes repeated examinations; all the witnesses,
+are summoned and examined, in a manner similar to the precognitions
+taken before the Sheriff of Scotland, and the whole process is nearly as
+tedious as upon the trial. All the papers and declarations are then sent
+with the accused, to the _Juré d'Accusation_, who also thoroughly
+examine the prisoner and the witnesses; if grounds are found for the
+trial, the papers are immediately laid before the "_Cour d'Assize_."
+Before this court, the prisoner is again specially examined by its
+president. His former declarations are compared and confronted with his
+present answers, and the strongest evidence against him, is often in
+this manner extracted from his own story. It might certainly be
+imagined, that with all these precautions, it would be scarcely possible
+that the guilty should escape. The very contrary is the case, and I have
+been informed by some of the ablest lawyers in the courts here, that out
+of ten prisoners, really guilty, six haves good chance of getting clear
+off. They ascribe this to two principal causes, 1st, That the
+proceedings become so extremely tedious and intricate, that it is
+impossible for the jury to keep them all in their recollection, and
+that, forgetting the general tenor of the evidence, they suffer the
+last impressions, those made by the counsel for the prisoner, to bias
+their judgment, and to regulate their verdict. In the 2d place, It is
+customary for the president of the court to enter into a long
+examination and cross-examination of the prisoner, (assisted and
+prompted in his questions by the rest of the judges), in a severe and
+peremptory style, and what is too often the case with the judge, in his
+anxiety to condemn, to identify himself with the public prosecutor. He
+appears, in the eye of the jury, more in the light of an interested
+individual, anxious to drag the offender in the most summary manner to
+the punishment of the law, than as an upright and unbiassed judge, whose
+duty it is coolly to consider the whole case, to weigh the evidence of
+the respective witnesses, to consider, with benevolent attention, the
+defence of the prisoner, and, after all this, to pronounce, with
+authoritative impartiality, the sentence of the law. This naturally
+prejudices the jury in favour of the prisoner; and few, even in our own
+country, who may have been witness to the common routine of our criminal
+procedure, will not themselves have felt that immediate and irresistible
+impression, which is made upon the mind of the spectator, when he sees
+on one side the solemn array of the court, the judges, the officers, and
+all the terrible show of justice; and on the other, the trembling,
+solitary, unbefriended criminal, who awaits in silence the sentence of
+the law. One difference, however, between the effects produced by the
+respective criminal codes of France and England, ought to be here
+remarked. In England, owing to the principles and practice of our
+criminal law, it too frequently happens, that the most open and
+notorious criminals escape, whilst the less able, but more innocent
+offenders, those who might be easily reclaimed, who have gone little way
+in the road of crime, but who are less able to do themselves justice at
+their trial, fall an easy sacrifice to the rigour of our criminal code.
+In France, owing to the custom of the cross-examinations of the
+prisoner, by the president and the different judges, this can never
+happen. The notoriety of his character prevents the common feelings of
+compassion in the breasts of the jury; the severity of the
+interrogations renders it impossible that any fictitious story, when
+confronted with his former examinations before the magistrate and the
+_Juré d'Accusation_, can long hold together, and he is, in this manner,
+generally convicted by the evidence extracted from his own mouth upon
+the trial.
+
+The present style of French pleading is exactly what we might be led to
+expect from the peculiar state of manners, and the particular character
+of that singular people. It is infinitely further removed from dry legal
+ratiocination, and much more allied to real eloquence, than any thing we
+met with in England. Any one who is acquainted with the natural inborn
+fluency in conversation of every individual whom he meets in France, may
+be able to form some idea of the astonishing command of words in a set
+of men who are bred to public speaking. One bad effect arises from this,
+which is, that if the counsel is not a man of ability, this amazing
+volubility, which is found equally in all, serves more to weaken than to
+convince; for the little sense there may be, is spread over so wide a
+surface, or is diluted with such a dose of verbiage, that the whole
+becomes tasteless and insipid to the last degree. But this fluency, on
+the other hand, in the hands of a man of talents and genius, is a most
+powerful weapon. It hurries you along with a velocity which, from its
+very rapidity, is delightful; and where it cannot convince, it amuses,
+fascinates, and overpowers you.
+
+One thing struck me as remarkable in the French form of trial, which
+perhaps might be with benefit adopted by England. All exceptions and
+challenges to jurymen are made in private, and not, as with us, in open
+court. This is a more delicate method, and no man's character can suffer
+(as is sometimes the case in England) by being rejected. The trial by
+jury is very far from being popular in France; indeed, upon an average I
+have heard more voices against it than advocates for its continuance.
+The great cause for this dissatisfaction is that which leads to various
+other calamitous consequences in that kingdom,--the want of public
+spirit in France.--The French have literally no idea of any duties which
+they must voluntarily, without the prospect of reward, undertake for
+their country. It never enters their heads that a man may be responsible
+for the neglect of those public duties, for the performance of which he
+receives no regular salary.--There is a constant connection in their
+minds, between business and payment, between money and obligation: and
+as for that noble and patriotic spirit which will undergo any labour
+from a disinterested sense of public duty, it is long since any such
+feeling has existed, and it will probably, if things continue in their
+present state, be long before it will exist again in France.
+
+It might be imagined, from the advantages in the administration of
+criminal justice, that France was in this respect equal, if not superior
+to Britain.--This, however, is by no means the case. The written
+criminal code of France is indeed apparently more humane, and the civil
+code less intricate and voluminous than with us in England. But there is
+a wide and striking difference between this code, drawn up with all the
+luminousness of speculative benevolence, and the manner in which the
+same code is carried into execution: What signifies the purity of the
+code, if the executive part of the system, the nomination of the judges,
+the direction of the sentences, and the reversal of the whole
+proceedings, was submitted to the power, and constituted part of the
+iron prerogative, of a despotic Sovereign. It was the constant practice
+of the late Emperor to appoint, whenever it was necessary for the
+accomplishment of his own ends, what he denominated a COUR PREVOITALE--a
+species of court consisting of judges of his own selection, who, with
+summary procedure, condemned or acquitted, according to the pleasure of
+its master. Not only was this court erected, which was in every respect
+under the controul of the Emperor, but by means of his police
+emissaries, of those pensioned spies whom he insinuated into all the
+offices, and the remotest branches of the political administration, he
+contrived to overawe the different judges, to keep them in perpetual
+fear of the loss of their official situation, and in this manner to beat
+down the evidence, to bias the sentence, and finally, to direct the
+verdict. The judicial situations became latterly so completely under the
+influence of the creatures of the Court, that I was informed by the
+lawyers, that no judge was sure of remaining for two months in his
+official situation.
+
+Upon the important subject of criminal delinquency, I am sorry to say
+the only information I contrived to collect was extremely
+unsatisfactory. I had been promised, by an intelligent barrister, with
+whom I had the good fortune to become acquainted, a detailed opinion
+upon the state of criminal delinquency in France; but in the meantime
+Napoleon landed from Elba, and my friend was called away from his civil
+duties to join the national guard, who were marched, when it was too
+late, in pursuit of Bonaparte.
+
+From the calendar of crimes, however, which I had the opportunity of
+examining at the Aix assizes, as well as from the decided opinion of
+many of the lawyers there, I should be induced to hazard the opinion,
+that the crimes of robbery, burglary, and murder, are infinitely less
+frequent than in England. The great cause of this is undoubtedly to be
+attributed to the excellence of their police. Wherever such a preventive
+as the system of Espionage, and that carried to the perfection which we
+find it possessing in that country, exists, it is impossible that the
+greater crimes should be found to any alarming decree. There is a power,
+a vigour and an omnipresence in this effective police, which can check
+every criminal excess before it has attained any thing like a general or
+rooted influence throughout the kingdom; and its power, under the
+administration of Napoleon, was exerted to an excessive degree in
+France. Such a mode, however, of diminishing the catalogue of crimes,
+could exist only under a state of things which the inhabitants of a free
+country would not suffer for a moment; and indeed, to anyone possessing
+but the faintest idea of what liberty is, there is something in the idea
+of a system of espionage which is dreadful. It is like some of those
+dark and gigantic dæmons, embodied by the genius of fiction, the form of
+which you cannot trace, although you feel its presence, which stalks
+about enveloped in congenial gloom, and whose iron grasp falls upon you
+the more terrible, because it is unsuspected. Fortunately such a monster
+can never be met with in a free country. It shuns the pure, and
+untainted atmosphere of liberty, and its lungs will only play with
+freedom in the foul and thick air of a decided despotism.
+
+The effects of this system of espionage, in destroying every thing upon
+which individual happiness in society depends; the free and unrestrained
+communication of opinion between friends, and even the confidence of
+domestic society, can hardly be conceived by any one who has lived in a
+free country. Upon this subject, I had an opportunity of conversing with
+a most respectable and intelligent British merchant, who, previous to
+the revolution, had been a partner in a banking-house in the French
+metropolis; and afterwards had the misfortune of being kept a prisoner
+in Paris for the last twelve years. The accounts he gave us regarding
+the excessive rigour of the police, and the jealousy of every thing like
+intercourse, were truly terrible. It had become a maxim in Paris, an
+axiom whose truth was proved by the general practice and conduct of its
+inhabitants, to believe every third person a spy. Any matter of moment,
+any thing bordering upon confidential communication, was alone to be
+trusted _entre quatre yeux_. The servants in every family, it was well
+known, were universally in the pay of government. They could not be
+hired till they produced their licenses, and these licenses, to serve as
+domestics, they all procured from the office of the police. From that
+office their wages were as certain, and probably (if the information
+they conveyed was of importance), more regularly paid than those they
+received from their masters. Even, therefore, in the most secret
+retirement of your own family, you could never speak with perfect
+freedom. Mr B----, the gentleman above mentioned, informed me, that
+before he dared to mention, even to his wife or family, any subject
+connected with the affairs of the day, or when they wished to speak
+freely and unrestrainedly upon any point whatever, every corner of the
+room was first examined, the chinks of the doors, and the walls of the
+adjoining apartments underwent a similar scrutiny; and even then they
+did not dare to introduce any subject which was nearly connected with
+the political government of the country.
+
+A lawyer, who lived upon the same floor with this gentleman, was
+astonished, one morning, by the entry of the police officers into his
+room at four in the morning, without the slightest previous warning.
+They pulled him out of bed--hurried him away to the police office, kept
+him in strict custody for several days, seized all his papers; and
+having at last discovered that their suspicions were ill-founded, and
+that he had been secured upon erroneous information, he was brought back
+to his lodgings by the same hands, and in the same summary manner in
+which he had been removed; and he is to this day ignorant of the cause
+of his detention, or the nature of the offence of which he had been
+suspected.
+
+Amongst the few English who, along with Mr B. were detained in Paris, it
+was naturally to be expected, that the precautions taken to deceive the
+police, and to prevent the suspicion of any secret intercourse, were
+still more severe and rigorous than were used by the native French. As
+the subjects of this country, they naturally became the objects of
+continual suspicion, and were more strictly watched than any other
+persons. They contrived, however, to procure, although at distant
+intervals, the sight of an English newspaper. Nine or ten months
+frequently elapsed without their receiving any intelligence from
+England. When they had the good fortune to procure one, the precautions
+necessary to be adopted were hardly to be believed. The same gentleman
+informed me, that upon receiving an English paper, he did not venture to
+mention the circumstance even to his wife and children, lest, in their
+joy, some incautious words might have escaped from them before the
+servants of the family, in which case, detection would have been
+immediate, and imprisonment inevitable. Keeping it, therefore, entirely
+to himself, he concealed it from every eye during the day, and at night,
+after the family had gone to bed, he sat up, lighted his taper, and,
+when every thing was still and silent about him, ventured, only then, to
+read over the paper, and to get by heart the most important parts of the
+intelligence regarding England; and he afterwards transmitted the
+invaluable present to some secret friend, who, in the same manner, dared
+only to peruse it at midnight, and with the same precautions.
+
+A very sensible distinction has been made in the French code, in the
+difference of punishment which is inflicted upon robbery, when it has or
+has not been accompanied by murder; and the consequence of such
+distinction is, that in that country the most determined robberies are
+seldom, as they often are with us, accompanied with murder; whilst the
+accurate proportionment of punishment to the crimes, encourages persons
+possessing information to come forward, and removes those natural
+scruples which all must feel, when they reflect that they may be the
+chief instruments in bringing down a capital penalty upon the head of an
+individual, whose trivial offence was in no respect deserving of this
+last and severest punishment of the law.
+
+The crime of which I heard most frequently, and of which the common
+occurrence may be traced to the miserable condition to which trade and
+commerce were, during the last few years, reduced in France, and to that
+general laxity of moral conduct which even now distinguishes that
+country, was _Fraudulent Bankruptcy_. The merchant, no longer possessing
+the means of making his fortune by fair speculation, has recourse to
+this nefarious mode of bettering his condition. He settles with his
+creditors for a small per centage; disposes of his property by
+fictitious sales, _ventes simulees_, and thus enriches himself upon the
+ruin of his creditors. At a small town in the south of France, where I
+for sometime resided, there were several individuals, who, it was well
+known, had made their fortunes in this manner; and at Marseilles it
+had, as I understood, become in some measure a common practice. The
+crime is seldom discovered, attended at least with those circumstances
+of corroborative evidence which are necessary in bringing it to trial.
+Upon detection, accompanied by complete proof, the punishment is severe.
+It consists in being condemned for fourteen years, or for life, to the
+galleys, and in branding the delinquent with letters denoting his crime:
+_B F_ for Fraudulent Bankruptcy. At one of the trials of the Aix
+assizes, at which I was present, a young man of excellent family, son of
+the Chevalier de St Louis, was convicted of this crime, and although it
+was proved that he had been deceived by his partner, a man of decidedly
+bad character, but possessed of deep cunning, he was condemned for
+fourteen years to the galleys: Owing to a flaw in the process, the
+sentence was set aside by the Cour de Cassation, or Supreme Court of
+Appeal at Paris, and a new trial was ordered.
+
+From the same cause, which I have mentioned above, the perfection of
+their police, petty theft is not of such common occurrence in France as
+in England. The country, in short, at the time when we passed through
+it, was very quiet, and few crimes were committed; but on the
+disbanding of the troops, a great change may be expected. These restless
+creatures must find work, or they will make it for themselves. It is a
+hard question how the un-warlike Louis is to employ them. Many talk of
+the necessity of sending an immense force to St Domingo; and it would
+appear wise policy to devise some expedition of this nature, which would
+swallow up the restless, the profligate, and the abandoned.
+
+It is not our intention, nor indeed would the limits of our work permit,
+of entering into the question of what ought to be the conduct of the
+King. But there is another question, from answering which we can
+scarcely escape.
+
+Are the majority of the French nation well affected to the Bourbons?
+This is a question which is put to every person who returns from France.
+It is a natural, a most important, but a most difficult one to answer. I
+endeavoured, by every method in my power, by a communication with those
+gentlemen of the province where I resided, whose characters and
+situations entitled them to implicit credit; by endeavouring to satisfy
+myself as to the real sentiments of the peasantry, and by a perusal of
+those documents regarding the state of the country, which were believed
+the most authentic, to acquire upon this subject something like
+satisfactory information. As to the sentiments entertained at present by
+the generality of the French people upon this subject, I cannot speak,
+but with regard to the period which I passed in France, which began in
+November 1814, and ended at the time of the landing of Napoleon from
+Elba, I have no hesitation in declaring, that it appeared to me, that
+the majority of the French nation were at that time hostile to the
+interests of the Bourbons. On the other hand, in consulting the same
+sources of information as I have above enumerated, it was as evident
+that they are not generally favourable to the restoration of the
+Imperial Government under Napoleon. What appeared at that period to be
+the general desire of the nation, was the establishment of a new
+constitution, formed upon those principles, embracing those new
+interests, and compatible with that new state of things which had been
+created by the revolution. It was on this account that they favoured
+Napoleon.
+
+The situation of France then exhibited perhaps one of the most singular
+pictures ever presented to view by a civilized nation; a people without
+exterior commerce, and whose interior trade and manufactures, except in
+some favourite spots, was almost annihilated; whose youth was yearly
+drained off to supply the army, but whose agriculture has been
+constantly improving, which, for the last twelve years, had been
+subjected to all the complicated horrors of a state of war, but which,
+after all this, could yet earnestly desire a continuance of this state.
+A nation where there was scarcely to be found an intermediate rank
+between the Sovereign and the peasantry--for since the destruction of
+the _ancienne noblesse_, and more particularly, since all ranks have
+been admitted to a participation in the dignities conferred on the
+military, all have become equally aspiring, and all consider themselves
+upon the same level:--A nation where, notwithstanding the division into
+parties, possessing the most opposite interests and opinions, and
+pulling every different way, the greater part certainly desired a
+government similar to Napoleon's, and would even unite to obtain it:--A
+nation who talked of nothing but liberty, and yet suffered themselves to
+be subjected to the conscription, to the loss of their trade, to the
+severest taxes, the greatest personal deprivations, and the most
+complete restraint in the expression of their opinions--to the continued
+extortions of a military chief, the most despotic who ever reigned in a
+European country, and whose acts of oppression are truly Asiatic; and
+who tamely bore all this oppression, supported by their national vanity,
+because they wish to bear the name _of the great people_: Great, because
+their ambition is unbounded; great as a nation of rapacious and
+blood-thirsty soldiers; great in every species of immorality and vice!
+Who, led away by this miserable vanity, have been false to their oaths,
+so recently pledged to a mild and virtuous prince, very unfit to rule
+such a race of villains, because he is mild and virtuous.
+
+But it is not generally believed, that the majority in France favoured
+Napoleon, though it is but a natural consequence of the state of the
+country; I shall therefore enumerate the divisions of ranks, and the
+sentiments of each.--All allow that the army were his friends; on that
+subject, therefore, I shall say nothing.--Next to the army, let us look
+to the civil authorities.--All these were in his favour--all that part
+of the civil authorities at least, who have the immediate management of
+the people.--It is in vain that the heads of office in Paris, the
+miserable bodies styled the Chambers of Parliament and the Counsellors
+of the realm, were favourably inclined towards the King.--Napoleon well
+knew that these were not the men who rule France.--France, as an entire
+kingdom, may be said to be governed by these men; but France,
+subdivided, is governed by the prefects, and the gens-d'armes of
+Napoleon.--Not a man of these was displaced by the King, and although
+they were all furious in their proclamations against the usurper, they,
+with few exceptions, joined him, and these few exceptions were removed
+by him.--The most powerful men in France under Napoleon were these
+prefects and gens-d'armes, and knowing their power, he was always
+cautious in their selection; wherever he conceived that they really
+favoured the Bourbon interest, he removed them.
+
+Next, the whole class of Receveurs were his devoted friends.--These men
+were all continued in place under the un-warlike reign of Louis, but
+where no conscription and no droits reunis were to be enforced, they had
+poverty staring them in the face.--Is it unnatural that they should
+favour him whose government enriches them?
+
+To the shadows of nobility, to the ghost of aristocracy which had
+re-appeared under the King, no power or influence can be
+attributed,--they dared not think, and could not act.
+
+The better classes of the inhabitants of the cities, whether the traders
+and manufacturers, or the bourgeoise of France, are those who were the
+most decided enemies of Bonaparte: but let us look how their arm is
+weakened and palsied by the situation of their property.--They have many
+of them purchased the lands of the emigrants at very low prices, and, in
+many instances, from persons who could only bestow possession without
+legal tenure.--These feel uneasy in their new possessions; they dread
+the ascendancy which the nobility might still obtain under their lawful
+Sovereign: Napoleon came proclaiming to them that he would maintain them
+in their properties. Nor were all the traders and manufacturers his
+enemies.--He encouraged the trade of Lyons, for example, of Paris, of
+Rouen, and other interior towns, and he pitted these interior towns
+against the sea-ports of Bourdeaux, Marseilles, &c. Thus, even with
+commercial men, he had some friends.--And here, in mentioning Paris, I
+must observe, that the most slavish deference is paid by the whole of
+France to the opinions, as well as the fashions, which prevail at the
+capital. From the encouragement which he offered to its interior trade,
+from the grand works which he was constantly carrying on, affording
+labour to the idle rabble; from the magnificent _spectacles_ supplied by
+his reviews, fetes, and festivities, and most of all, from the
+celebrated system of gulling and stage-trick, practised by his police,
+and through the medium of the press--From all these circumstances, it
+arises, that Napoleon was no where so much beloved as at Paris; and
+Napoleon took good care that Paris afforded to all France an example
+such as he would wish them to follow.--It is difficult to say why the
+French should tamely follow the example of their despot; but they forgot
+that he was a despot, and they were not singular as a nation in
+following the example _of their chief_, though, perhaps, they carried
+their obedience to a more slavish pitch than any other people.--"En
+France (says Mons. Montesquieu) il en est des manieres et de la facon de
+vivre, comme des modes, les Français changent des meurs selon l'age de
+leur Roi,--Le Monarque pouvait meme parvenir a rendre la nation grave
+s'il l'avait entrepris."
+
+Next in rank, though, from their numbers and influence, perhaps, after
+the army, the most powerful body in the community, the situation of the
+peasants must be considered. They had either seized upon, or purchased,
+at a low rate, the lands of the emigrants, and the national domains;
+these they had brought into the best state of cultivation; without the
+interference of any one, they directly drew the profits. The oppression
+in agriculture, which existed before the revolution, whether from the
+authority of the Seigneurs, from the corvees, from tythes, game laws,
+&c. all are done away--become rich and flourishing, they are able to pay
+the taxes, which, under Napoleon, were not so severe as is generally
+supposed.--But they had every thing to fear from the return of the
+noblesse, and from the re-establishment of the ranks and order which
+must exist under the new constitution of France. Can it then be
+considered that the peasantry should see their own interest in
+maintaining the revolutionary order of things? The more unjust their
+tenure, the more cause have they to fear; and unenlightened as many of
+them are, their fears once raised, will not easily be controlled.
+Napoleon had most politically excited alarm among them, and they are
+favourably inclined towards him. This powerful body have no leaders to
+direct them: The respectable and wealthy farmer, possessing great landed
+property; the yeoman, the country gentleman,--all these ranks are
+abolished. Where the views of the Sovereign are inimical to the
+peasantry, as was imagined under Louis XVIII. that body will powerfully
+resist him; where they were in concert, as under Napoleon, that body
+became his chief support next to his military force.
+
+It is not enough that Louis XVIII. had never invaded their property--it
+is not enough that in different shapes he issued proclamations, and
+assurances, that he had no such intentions,--the peasantry felt
+insecure; and they dreaded the influence of his counsellors, and of the
+noblesse. The low rabble of France, at all times restless, and desirous
+of change, were favourable to Napoleon;--they wished for a continuance
+of that thoughtless dissipation, and dreadful immorality, which he
+encouraged; they wished for employment in his public works,--they looked
+for situations in his army.
+
+It may then be said, that among all ranks Napoleon had friends. Who then
+were against him? All those who wished for peace: all those who desired
+the re-establishment of the church: all those who had the cause of
+morality and virtue at heart--all the good,--but, alas! in France, they
+were few in number.
+
+I have only enumerated the great and leading parties in the community.
+It was my intention to have touched on the sentiments of the different
+professions, but I have been already too tedious; I shall here only
+enumerate a few of the classes, who, as they are thrown out of bread by
+the return of the Bourbons, and the new system of government, will be
+ever busily employed in favouring a despotic and military government, a
+continuance of war, and of a conscription.
+
+1st, All the prefects, collectors of taxes, and their agents, who were
+employed in the countries subjected to Napoleon.
+
+2d, The many officers, and under agents, employed in the conscription,
+and in collecting the droits reunis.
+
+3d, The police emissaries of all ranks, forming that enormous mass who
+conducted the grand machine of espionage, directed the _public spirit_,
+and supplied information to the late Emperor.
+
+4th, All the rich and wealthy army contractors, furnishers, &c. &c.
+
+Having attempted to shew that the situation of the people in France was
+highly favourable to the views of the usurper, let me now observe, that
+there are other circumstances which greatly aided his cause.
+
+1st, The vanity of the nation was hurt: they had not forgotten their
+defeat by the allies, and the proceedings of Congress, in confining
+within narrow bounds, that nation, who, but a year ago, gave laws to the
+continent, had tended to aggravate their feelings. It is difficult for
+any nation to shrink at once into insignificance, from the possession of
+unlimited power; it is impossible for France to maintain an inglorious
+peace.
+
+2d, The spirit of the nation had become completely military. One year of
+peace cannot be supposed to have done away the effects of twelve years
+of victory.
+
+3d, The general laxity of morals, and the habits of dissipation and
+idleness, which have followed from the revolution, and have been taught
+by the military, and especially by the disbanded soldiers, were
+favourable to him.
+
+4th, He came at the very time when his prisoners had returned from all
+quarters of the globe; he came again to unite them under the _revered
+eagle_, emblem of rapine and plunder, which they everywhere looked up
+to; in short, if it had been suggested to any one, possessing a thorough
+knowledge of the situation of France, to say at what time Napoleon was
+most likely to succeed, he must have pitched on the moment selected by
+him. There are indeed many circumstances which induce me to suppose,
+that the plan for his restoration had been partly formed before he left
+Fontainbleau; for it is well known, that he long hesitated--that he
+often thought of making use of his remaining force, (a force of about
+thirty thousand men), and fighting his way to Italy; that his Marshals
+only prevailed on him, and that he yielded to their advice, when he
+might have thought and acted for himself. The conduct of Ney favours the
+supposition: he selected for him the spot, of all others, the most
+favourable for his views, should they be directed to Italy; he
+stipulated for his rank, for a guard of veterans; he is described as
+using a boldness and insolence of speech to Napoleon, which he would not
+have dared to use, had there not been an understanding between them. He
+covered his treachery by a garb of the same nature, when in presence of
+his lawful Sovereign: open in his abuse of the usurper, while laying
+plans to join him.
+
+There is a very peculiar circumstance in Bonaparte's character, which
+is, that at times, he makes the most unguarded speeches, forgetful of
+his own interest. Thus, when the national guard of Lyons begged
+permission to accompany him on his march, he said to them, "You have
+suffered the brother of your King to leave you unattended--go--you are
+unworthy to follow me." Thus, when at Frejus, he said to the Mayor,--"I
+am sorry that Frejus is in Provence; I hate Provence, but I have always
+wished your town well; and, _ere long, I will be among you again_." This
+speech, which I had from the Prefect of Aix, who was intimately attached
+to Napoleon and his interests, I know to be authentic. In it, even the
+place of his landing seemed to be determined. One thing is certain, that
+the plan, if not commenced before his abdication, was, at all events,
+begun immediately after; for a long time must have been necessary to
+arrange matters in such a manner that he should not find the slightest
+opposition in his march to Paris.
+
+I have thus attempted to give my readers some account of the state of
+France under Napoleon. From this account, hastily written, they will
+draw their own conclusions. Mine, attached as I am to one party; knowing
+little of politics, only interested as a Briton in the fate of my
+country, are these:--That France decidedly wishes to live by war and
+plunder--that France deserves no such government as that of the virtuous
+Louis--that, till the soldiery are disbanded, and their leaders
+punished, France can never be governed by the Bourbons:--that the
+majority in the nation do not wish for Napoleon in particular, but for a
+revolutionary government, and that we have no right of interference with
+their choice: but that the propriety of our immediately engaging in war
+could not be doubted, for our very existence as a nation depended on
+such conduct--that we had the same right to attack Bonaparte, as we had
+to attack a common robber, more particularly, if this robber had
+repeatedly planned and devised the destruction of our property.
+
+They will draw the happiest conclusions in favour of our own blessed
+country, from a comparison with France--looking on that unhappy nation,
+they will exclaim with me, in the beautiful words of La Harpe:
+[45]"J'excuse et n'envie point ceux qui peuvent vivre comme s'ils
+n'avoient ni souffert ni vu souffrir; mais qu'ils me pardonnent de ne
+pouvoir les imiter. Ces jours d'une degradation entière et innouie de
+la nature humaine sont sous mes yeux, pesent sur mon ame et retombent
+sans cesse sous ma plume, destinée à les retraçer jusqu'à mon dernier
+moment."[46]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+MODERN FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+An Englishman never dreams of entering into conversation without some
+previous knowledge upon the point which is the subject of discussion.
+You will pass but few days in France before you will be convinced, that
+to a Frenchman this is not at all necessary. The moment he enters the
+room, or caffé, where a circle may happen to be conversing, he
+immediately takes part in the discussion--of whatever nature, or upon
+whatever subject that may be, is not of the most distant consequence to
+him. He strikes in with the utmost self-assurance and adroitness,
+maintains a prominent part in the conversation with the most perfect
+plausibility; and although, from his want of accurate information, he
+will rarely instruct, he seldom fails to amuse by the exuberance of his
+fancy, and the rapidity of his elocution. But take any one of his
+sentences to pieces, analyze it, strip it of its gaudy clothing and
+fanciful decorations, and you will be astonished what skeletons of bare,
+shallow, and spiritless ideas will frequently present themselves.
+
+In England, it often happens, that a man who is perfectly master of the
+subject in discussion, from the effect of shyness or embarrassment, will
+convey his information with such an appearance of awkwardness and
+hesitation, as to create a temporary suspicion of dulness, or of
+incapacity. But upon further examination, the true and sterling value of
+his remarks is easily discernible. The same can very seldom be said of a
+Frenchman. His conversation, which delights at the moment, generally
+fades upon recollection. The information of the first is like a
+beautiful gem, whose real value is concealed by the encrustation with
+which it is covered; the other is a dazzling but sorry paste in a
+brilliant setting. [47]"Un Français," says M. de Stael, with great
+truth, "scait encore parler, lors meme il n'a point d'idees;" and the
+reason why a Frenchman can do so is, because ideas, which are the
+essential requisites in conversation to any other man, are not so to
+him. He is in possession of many substitutes, composed of a few of those
+set phrases and accommodating sentences which fit into any subject; and
+these, mixed up with appropriate nods, significant gestures, and above
+all, with the characteristic shrugging of the shoulders, are ever ready
+at hand when the tide of his ideas may happen to run shallow.
+
+The perpetual cheerfulness of the French, under almost every situation,
+is well known, and has been repeatedly remarked. One great secret by
+which they contrive to preserve this invariable levity of mind, is
+probably this extraordinary talent of theirs for a particular kind of
+conversation. An Englishman, engaged in the business and duties of life,
+even at his hours of relaxation, is occupied in thinking upon them. In
+the midst of company he is often an insulated being; his mind, refusing
+intercourse with those around him, retires within itself. In this manner
+he inevitably becomes, even in his common hours, grave and serious, and
+if under misfortunes, perhaps melancholy and morose. A Frenchman is in
+every respect a different being: He cannot be grave or unhappy, because
+he never allows himself time to become so. His mind is perpetually
+busied with the affairs of the moment. If he is in company, he speaks,
+without introduction, to every gentleman in the room. Any thing, the
+most trivial, serves him for a hook on which to hang his story; and this
+generally lasts as long as he has breath to carry him on. He recounts to
+you, the first hour you meet with him, his whole individual history;
+diverges into anecdotes about his relations, pulls out his watch, and
+under the cover shews you the hair of his mistress, apostrophizes the
+curl--opens his pocket-book, insists upon your reading his letters to
+her, sings you the song which he composed when he was _au desespoir_ at
+their parting, asks your opinion of it, then whirls off to a discussion
+on the nature of love; leaves that the next moment to philosophize upon
+friendship, compliments you, _en passant_, and claims you for his
+friend; hopes that the connection will be perpetual, and concludes by
+asking you _to do him the honour of telling him your name_. In this
+manner he is perpetually occupied; he has a part to act which renders
+serious thought unnecessary, and silence impossible. If he has been
+unfortunate, he recounts his distresses, and in doing so, forgets them.
+His mind never reposes for a moment upon itself; his secret is to keep
+it in perpetual motion, and, like a shuttlecock, to whip it back and
+forward with such rapidity, that although its feathers may have been
+ruffled, and its gilding effaced by many hard blows, yet neither you nor
+he have time to discover it.
+
+Nothing can present a stronger contrast between the French and English
+character, and nothing evinces more clearly the superiority of the
+French in conversation, and the art of amusement, than the scenes which
+take place in the interior of a French diligence. They who go to France
+and travel in their own carriages are not aware of what they lose.--The
+interior of a French diligence, if you are tolerably fortunate in your
+company, is a perfect epitome of the French nation.--When you enter a
+public coach in England, it is certainly very seldom that, in the course
+of the few hours you may remain in it, you meet with an entertaining
+companion. Chance, indeed, may now and then throw a pleasant man in your
+way; but these are but thinly sown amongst those sour and silent
+gentlemen, who are your general associates, and who, now and then eyeing
+each other askance, look as if they could curse themselves for being
+thrown into such involuntary contiguity.
+
+The scene in a French diligence is the most different from all this that
+can be conceived. Every thing there is life, and motion, and joy.--The
+coach generally holds from ten to twelve persons, and even then is
+sufficiently roomy.--The moment you enter you find yourself on terms of
+the most perfect familiarity with the whole set of your travelling
+companions. In an instant every tongue is at work, and every individual
+bent upon making themselves happy for the moment, and contributing to
+the happiness of their fellow travellers. Talking, joking, laughing,
+singing, reciting,--every enjoyment which is light and pleasurable is
+instantly adopted.--A gentleman takes a box from his pocket, opens it,
+and with a look of the most finished politeness, presents it, full of
+sweetmeats, to the different ladies in succession. One of these, in
+gratitude for this attention, proposes that which she well knows will be
+agreeable to the whole party, some species of round game like our
+cross-purposes, involving forfeits. The proposal is carried by
+acclamation,--the game is instantly begun, and every individual is
+included: Woe be now to the aristocracy of the interior! Old and young,
+honest and dishonest, respectable and disrespectable, all are involved
+in undistinguished confusion--but all are content to be so, and happy in
+the exchange. The game in the meantime proceeds, and the different
+forfeits become more numerous. The generality of these ensure, indeed,
+from their nature, a punctuality of performance. To kiss the handsomest
+woman in the party, to pay her a compliment in some extempore effusion,
+or to whisper a confidence (_faire une confidence_) in her ear--all
+these are hardly enjoined before they are happily accomplished. But
+others, which it would be difficult to particularize, are more amusing
+in their consequences, and less easy, in their execution.
+
+The ludicrous effect of this scene is much heightened by its being often
+carried on in the dark, for night brings no cessation; and we have
+ourselves, in travelling in this manner in the diligence, engaged in
+many a game of forfeits where, it is not too much to say, that our
+play-fellows, of both sexes, were certainly nearer to the grave than
+the cradle, being somewhere between fifty and fourscore. The scenes
+which then take place, the undistinguished clamours of young and old,
+the audible salutes from every quarter, which point to the perpetual
+succession of the forfeits, altogether compose a spectacle, which to a
+stranger is the most unexpected and extraordinary that can be possibly
+imagined.
+
+The conversation of a Frenchman, who possesses wit and information, is
+certainly superior to that of a clever man of any other country. It has
+a variety and playfulness, which, upon subjects of taste or fancy, or
+literature, delights and fascinates; but even their common conversation
+upon the most trivial matters is of a superior order, as far as
+amusement goes. However shallowly they may think upon a subject, they
+never fail to express themselves well. This is the case equally with
+those of both sexes. It is true, certainly, that in their subjects for
+conversation, they indulge in a wider range of selection; and in
+consequence, far more frequently without evincing the slightest scruple,
+overstep the bounds of decorum and delicacy. This is the inevitable
+effect of the peculiarity above noticed, that they must constantly
+converse; as their appetite for conversation is inordinate, their taste
+is necessarily less nice; provided they continue in motion, they are
+careless about the ground over which they travel. One unhappy
+consequence of this certainly is, that such carelessness extends to the
+women, even amongst the highest and best bred classes; and that these
+ideas of delicacy and tenderness, with which we are always accustomed to
+regard, in this country, the female mind, are shocked and grated against
+by the occurrence of scenes, the employment of expressions, and the
+mention of books which tend rather to disgust than to amuse, and which
+destroy in a moment that female fascination, which can never exist
+without that first and most material ingredient, modesty.
+
+The science of conversation in France, is not, as with us, confined
+principally to the higher classes, but extends to the whole body of the
+people. The reason is, that the lower ranks in that country invariably
+imitate the manners, style of society, and mode of conversation used by
+the higher orders. The lower ranks in England converse, no doubt; but
+then their conversation, and the subjects upon which it is employed, is
+exactly fitted to the rank they hold in society.
+
+In speaking of the literature of France, we shall have occasion to
+remark, that there is nothing in that country like an ancient or
+national poetry. This is perhaps not so much to be attributed to the
+excessive ignorance of the peasantry, as to the circumstance, that from
+the French peasantry invariably imitating the manners of the higher
+orders, there is no adaption of the manners of the labouring orders to
+the simple rank they fill in society. The innocence of rural life is
+thus lost. The shepherd, the peasant girl, the rustic labourer, whom you
+meet in France, are all in some measure artificial beings. They express
+themselves to any stranger they meet with ease and politeness, with a
+point and a vivacity which is certainly striking; but which is, of all
+things, the farthest removed from nature: and it is the consequence of
+this interchange which has taken place,--this imitation of the manners
+of the higher orders by the lower classes of the peasantry--that we
+shall in vain look for any thing in France like a simple national
+poetry. The truth, the simplicity, the nature, which ought to form it,
+are not to be found amongst any classes of the French people. The poetry
+of France, both ancient and modern, that of Ronsard and Marot, in
+earlier days; and that of Boileau, Racine, Corneille and Voltaire, in
+more modern times, bears the marks of having been formed in the court.
+If, for instance, in Scotland, the lower ranks, the labouring classes,
+like those of France, had transplanted the fictitious manners of the
+higher classes into the innocence of their cottage, or the sequestered
+solitude of their vallies--where, under such a state of things, could
+there ever have arisen such gifted spirits as Burns, or Ramsay, or
+Ferguson? and where should we have found, that truth, that beauty, that
+genuine nature, in the lives and manners of our peasantry, which has not
+only furnished such poets with some of their finest subjects, but has
+instructed these peasants themselves to pour out, in unpremeditated
+strains, those ancient and beautiful songs, which art and education
+could never have taught them; and which, in the progress of time, have
+formed that unrivalled national poetry, perhaps one of the brightest
+gems in the diadem of Scottish genius. But we must return to France.
+
+The French have been always celebrated for their natural gaiety of
+character. One exception from this is material to be noticed. It must
+strike you the moment you look into the countenances of the soldiery, or
+examine the air and manner of the generality of the lower officers. A
+dark and gloomy expression, if not a suspicious, and often savage
+appearance, is their characteristic feature; and although this is
+disguised by occasional sallies of loud and intemperate mirth, these
+sallies are more like the desperate and reckless exertions of a troop of
+banditti, than the temperate and unpremeditated cheerfulness of a
+regular soldiery. Nor is this look confined entirely to the military.
+The habits of the whole nation are changed; but yet, with all this
+alteration, there remains enough of their characteristic gaiety to
+distinguish them from every other people in Europe.
+
+Their excessive frivolity is perhaps even more remarkable than their
+gaiety; they have not sufficient steadiness for the uninterrupted
+avocations of graver life. In the midst of the most serious or deep
+discussion, a Frenchman will suddenly stop, and, with a look of perhaps
+more solemn importance than he bestowed upon the subject of debate, will
+adjust the ruffle of his brother savant, adding some observation on the
+propriety of adorning the exterior as well as the interior of science.
+[48]"Leur badinage," says Montesquieu, "naturellement fait pour las
+toilettes, semble etre provenu a former le caractere general de la
+nation. On badine au conseil, on badine a la tête d'une armee, on badine
+avec un ambassadeur."
+
+The vanity of the whole nation, it is well known, is without all bounds;
+and although this is most apparent, perhaps, and less unequivocally
+shewn in every point connected with military affairs, it is yet confined
+to no one subject in particular, but embraces all--in arts, science,
+manufactures; in every thing, indeed, upon which the spirit and genius
+of a nation can be exercised, it is not too much to say, that they
+believe themselves superior to every other nation or country. Nay, what
+is very extraordinary, so much have they been accustomed to hear
+themselves talk in this exaggerated style; so natural to them have now
+become those expressions of arrogant superiority, that vanity has, in
+its adoption into the French character, and in the effects which it
+there produces, almost changed its nature.
+
+In other countries--in our own, for instance, a very vain man is an
+object of ridicule, and generally of distrust. In France he is neither;
+on the contrary, there appears throughout the kingdom a kind of general
+agreement, a species of silent understood compact amongst them, that
+every thing asserted by one Frenchman to another, provided it is done
+with sufficient confidence and coolness, however individually vain, or
+absolutely incredible, ought to be fully and implicitly believed. It is
+this excessive idea which the French instil into each other of their own
+superiority, joined to the extreme ignorance of the great body of the
+people, which composes that prominent feature in their national
+character--_their credulity_--and which has long rendered them the
+easiest of all nations to be imposed upon by political artifice, and the
+submissive dupes of those travelling quacks and ingenious charlatans,
+who in this country are more than commonly successful in ruining the
+health and impoverishing the pockets of their devoted patients. An
+instance of this occurs to me, which happened to myself when residing in
+the south of France.
+
+At one of the great fairs where I was present, there appeared upon an
+elevated stage, an elderly and serious-looking gentleman, dressed in a
+complete suit of solemn black, with a little child kneeling at his feet.
+"Messieurs," said he to the multitude, and bowing with the most perfect
+confidence and self-possession--[49]"Messieurs, c'est impossible de
+tromper des gens instruits comme vous. Je vais absolument couper la tête
+a cet-enfant: _Mais_ avant de commencer, il faut que je vous fasse voir
+que je ne suis pas un charlatan. Eh bien, en attendant et pour un espece
+d'exorde: Qui est entre vous qui à le mal au dent?" "Moi," exclaimed
+instantly a sturdy looking peasant, opening his jaws, and disclosing a
+row of grinders which might have defied a shark. "Monsieur, (said the
+doctor, inspecting his gums), it is but too true. The disorders
+attending these small but inestimable members, the teeth, are invariably
+to be traced to a species of worm, and this the most obstinate, as well
+as the most fatal species in the vermicular tribe, which contrives to
+conceal itself at the root of the affected member. Gentlemen, we have
+all our respective antipathies; and it is by means of these that the
+most fatal and unaccountable effects are produced upon us. Worms,
+gentlemen, have also their prevailing antipathies. To subdue the animal,
+we have only to become acquainted with its disposition. The worm, Sir,
+at the bottom of your tooth, is of that faculty or tribe which _abhors
+copper_. It is the vermis halcomisicus, _or copper-hating worm_. Upon
+placing this penknife in the solution contained in this bottle,"
+(continued he, holding up a small phial, which contained a
+green-coloured liquid), "it is, you see, immediately changed into
+copper." The patient then, at the doctor's request, approached. A female
+assistant stood between him and the crowd, and in a few minutes the
+tooth was delivered of a worm, which, from its size, might certainly
+have given the toothache to the Dragon of Wantley,
+
+    "Who swallow'd the Mayor, asleep in his chair,
+    And pick'd his teeth with the mace."
+
+The peasant declared he felt no more pain, and the crowd eagerly pressed
+forward, (with the exception, we may believe, of the coppersmiths
+amongst the audience), and purchased the bottles containing this
+invaluable prescription. Before I had left the party, I discovered that
+the doctor, previously to the performing another trick, had borrowed
+from the crowd a gold piece of twenty francs, two pieces of five francs,
+a silver watch, and several smaller articles, nor did it appear they had
+the slightest suspicion that the learned doctor might have changed these
+articles as well as the penknife; and that although there were
+copper-hating worms, there might exist other kinds of human vermin,
+which might not reckon silver among their antipathies. This
+characteristic vanity, and the excessive credulity of the people, were
+strikingly exhibited in another ludicrous adventure of the same kind,
+which happened to us when I was resident at Aix.
+
+We were alarmed one morning by a loud flourish of trumpets, almost
+immediately under our windows. On looking out, we beheld a kind of
+triumphal car, preceded by six avant couriers, clothed in scarlet and
+gold, mounted on uncommon fine horses, and with trumpets in their hands.
+In the car was placed a complete band of musicians, and it was, after a
+little interval in the procession, followed by a superb open carriage,
+the outside front of which was entirely covered with rich crimson velvet
+and gold lace. The most singular feature about the carriage was its
+shape, for there projected from it in front, a kind of large magazine,
+(covered up also with a cloth of velvet,) which was in its dimensions
+larger than the carriage itself. In this open carriage sat a plain
+looking, dark, fat man, reclining in an attitude of the most perfect
+ease, and genteelly dressed. The whole cortege halted, in the course of
+Aix, almost immediately below our house. I joined the audience which had
+collected around it. Of course all was on the tiptoe of expectation.
+There was a joyful buzz of satisfaction through the crowd, and endless
+were the conjectures formed by our own party at the window. At length,
+after a flourish of trumpets, the gentleman rose, and uncovering the
+large magazine, showed that it contained an almost endless assemblage of
+bottles, from the greatest to the smallest dimensions. He then,
+advancing gravely, addressed himself to the audience in these words:
+[50]"Messieurs, dans l'univers il n'ya qu'un soleil; dans le royaume de
+France il n'ya qu'un Roi; dans la medicine il n'ya que Charini." With
+this he placed his hand on his heart, bowed, and drew himself up with a
+look of the most glorious complacency. This exordium was received with
+the most rapturous applause by the crowd, who, from having often seen
+him in his progress through the kingdom, had known before that this was
+_Charini himself_, the celebrated itinerant _worm doctor_. "Gentlemen,"
+he then proceeded, "it has been the noble object of my life to
+investigate the origin and causes of disease, and fortunate is it for
+the world that it has been so. Attend, then, to my discoveries: Worms
+are at the bottom of all disease,--they are the insidious, but prolific
+authors of human misery; they are born in the cradle with the infant;
+they descend into the grave with the aged. They begin, gentlemen, with
+life, but they do not cease with death. Behold, gentlemen," he
+continued, "the living and infallible proofs of my assertions,"
+(pointing to the long rows of crystal bottles, filled with multitudes of
+every kind of these vermin, of the most odious figures, which were
+marshalled in horrible array on each side of him), "these, gentlemen,
+are the worms which have been, by my art, extracted from my patients;
+many of them are, as you see, invisible to the naked eye;" upon which he
+held up a small phial of pure water. "Not a single disease is there, and
+not a single part of the human body which has not its appropriate and
+peculiar worm. There are those whose habitation is in the head;--there
+are those which dwell only in the soles of the feet;--there are those
+whose favourite haunts are in the seat of digestion;--there are those
+(happy worms) which will consent to dwell only in the bosoms of the
+fair. Even love," said he, assuming an air of most complacent softness,
+and casting his eye tenderly over the female part of his audience, "even
+love is not an exception; it is occasioned by the subtlest species of
+worms; which insinuate themselves into the roots of the heart, and play
+in peristaltic gambols round the seat of our affections. Painters,
+gentlemen, have distinguished the God of Love by the doves with which he
+is accompanied. He ought, more correctly, to have been depicted riding
+upon that worm, to which he owes his triumphs. Behold," said he, holding
+up a phial in which there was enclosed a worm of a light colour, "behold
+the fatal love-worm, from which I have lately had the happiness to
+deliver an interesting female of Marseilles!" The crowd were enchanted,
+purchased his bottles in abundance; and I heard afterwards in Aix, that
+by this ingenious juggling, he had contrived to amass a fortune
+sufficient to purchase a large estate, and to maintain, as we had
+witnessed, a cavalcade worthy of an ambassador.
+
+It is difficult to conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+characteristic vanity and scientific expressions, which are employed by
+the French workmen. The wig-makers, tailors, barbers, all consider their
+several trades as in some measure allied to science, and themselves as
+the only beings who understand it.--This they generally contrive to
+communicate to you with an air of mysterious importance. "Monsieur,"
+said a French barber to a friend of mine, an English sea captain who
+came in to be shaved; "you are an Englishman--sorry am I to inform you,
+but I do it with profound respect, that the science of shaving is
+altogether misunderstood in England. In their ignorance of its
+principles, they have neglected the great secret of our art. Sir," said
+he, coming closer up to him, and putting his hand to his own chin with
+an air of solemn communication, "I am credibly informed that in England
+they actually cut off the _epiderme_. Now, mon Dieu," continued he,
+turning up his eyes, and raising his soap-brush in an attitude of
+invocation, "who is there in France that will be ignorant that, in the
+destruction of this invaluable cuticle, the chin of the individual is
+tortured, and the first principles of our art degraded!"
+
+I have already hinted at the ignorance of the French, as a component
+part of their national credulity. This ignorance, as far as our
+opportunities of observation extended, in travelling across France,
+appeared to be deep and general; not only amongst the lower orders, but,
+on many subjects, pervading also the higher classes of the people. The
+only subjects upon which Napoleon considered that any thing like
+attempts at a national education should be made, were those connected
+with military affairs; mathematics, and the principles of mechanical
+philosophy.--Schools for these were generally founded in all the
+principal towns in the kingdom; it was there the younger officers of the
+army received their military education, and there were many public
+seminaries for public education, in addition to the Ecole Polytechnique
+in Paris, where the pupils were maintained and educated at the public
+expence. Every other branch of education, as tending to change the
+direction of the public mind, from military affairs into more pacific
+employments, was sedulously discouraged, and the consequence is seen, in
+that melancholy ignorance which is distinguishable in those generations
+of the French people which have sprung up since the revolution, and
+frequently even amongst the old nobility.[51] "Vous etes Ecossois?" said
+a French nobleman to me; 'Oui, Monsieur.' "Oh, que cela est drole." 'Et
+comment, Monsieur?' "C'est le pays de Napoleon. C'est un isle n'est ce
+pas?" 'Oh que non, Monsieur.' "Ma foi, je croyois qu'on l'appelloit
+_l'isle de Corse_." Whether, in the geographical confusion of this poor
+Marquis's brain, he had mistaken me for a Corsican, or actually believed
+that Napoleon was a Scotchman, is not very easy to determine.
+
+"You are an Englishwoman?" said the wife of a counsellor to one of the
+ladies of our party: "and I have been at London."--"And how did you like
+the people?" "Oh, they are very charmant; _bot_ I like better that other
+town near London,--Philadelphia."
+
+It is well known, that formerly in France the order of the Jesuits had
+acquired so pre-eminent an interest, as to insinuate themselves into
+almost every civil branch of the political government; and that, more
+especially, by the seminaries which they established generally
+throughout the kingdom, they had created a system of national education,
+in many respects highly beneficial to the community. As to the effects
+produced by this system, under the Jesuits, on the literature of France,
+very different opinions certainly may be entertained; and that
+artificial, and in many respects unnatural, style of poetry which has
+arisen, and still continues in France, may be perhaps attributed,
+amongst other causes, to that excessive passion for classical learning
+which was so religiously instilled, whereever the influence of these
+seminaries of the Jesuits extended. The utter abolition of this order is
+well known, and the consequence is, that where there existed formerly a
+general passion for that species of literature, which they cultivated,
+and which consisted in an intimate and critical knowledge of the
+languages of antiquity, and a taste for classical learning, as the only
+object of their imitation, there remains now nothing but a deep and
+general ignorance upon every object unconnected with military affairs;
+an ignorance which is the more fatal in its consequences, because it is
+founded upon contempt. It is difficult to say which of these conditions
+is the worst, the former or the latter. Among physicians and lawyers,
+however, you meet with many individuals, who, having been educated
+probably in foreign countries, or under the old _regime_, preserve still
+a passion for that which is so generally despised.
+
+In speaking of the education of the French people, it is impossible for
+any one who has at all mingled in French society, not to be particularly
+struck with what I before alluded to, the extreme ignorance and the
+limited education of the women, even amongst the higher orders. In a
+family of young ladies, you will but rarely meet with one who can
+accurately write her own language; and in general, in their cards of
+invitation, or in those letters of ceremony, which you will frequently
+receive, they will send you specimens of orthography, which, in their
+defiance of every established rule, are as amusing as Mrs Win. Jenkins'
+observations on that grave and useful gentleman, _Mr Apias Corkus_.
+Amongst the boys, any thing like a finished education was as little to
+be expected; the _furor militaris_ had latterly, in the public schools,
+proceeded to such a pitch, as to defy every attempt towards giving them
+a general, or in any respect a finished education. They steadily
+revolted against any thing which induced them to believe that their
+parents intended them for a pacific profession. Go into a French
+toy-shop, and you immediately discern the unambiguous symptoms of the
+military mania. Every thing there which might encourage in the infant
+any predilections for the pacific pursuits of an agricultural or
+commercial country, is religiously banished, and their places supplied
+by an infinite variety of military toys:--platoons of gens-d'armerie,
+troops of artillery, tents, waggons, camp equipage, all are arranged in
+imitative array upon the counter. The infant of the _grande_ nation
+becomes familiar, in his nurse's arms, with all the detail of the
+profession to which he is hereafter to belong; and when he opens his
+eyes for the first time, it is to rest them upon that terrible machinery
+of war, in the midst of which he is destined to close them for ever.
+
+In every country, and in every age of the world, the great and leading
+effects of tyranny, and of military despotism, will be discovered to
+have been the same. Nothing could be a stronger corroboration of this
+remark, than that singular and unexpected parallel which was
+immediately observed by one of our party who had been long in India,
+between the policy adopted by Napoleon, and that followed by the
+Brahmins in the East. The Brahmins religiously prohibit travelling; and
+the _sin_ of visiting foreign countries is particularized in their
+religious instructions. The free publication of the sentiments of
+travellers was never permitted under the late Emperor; and the severe
+regulations of the police made it extremely difficult for any Frenchman
+to travel. The object of both was the same, to prevent any mortifying
+and dangerous comparisons between the situation of their own, and the
+condition of foreign countries. The Brahmins made it a rule to check the
+progress of education, and to discourage the study of their _shasters_.
+As to these seminaries of education, unconnected with military subjects,
+Napoleon, if he did not dare actually to abolish them, at least threw
+over them the chilling influence of his imperial disapprobation; whilst,
+by that general inattention and impunity extended to vicious conduct,
+and the ridicule with which he regarded the clergy, he succeeded in
+rendering the scriptures contemptible. If, again, the condition of the
+French people was in many material respects analogous to the state of
+the Hindoos, the education of the women among them (the effect of the
+same causes operating in both countries), is completely Mussulman.
+Singing, dancing, and playing on the guitar, with a lighter species of
+ladies needle-work, forms the whole education of the French women; and
+this similarity of political treatment has produced a striking parallel
+even in the minuter parts of their national character.
+
+It is disagreeable to dwell upon the darker parts of their characters;
+even amongst those whose dispositions, it must be acknowledged, if
+formed in a purer country, and encouraged to develope themselves in all
+their native beauty, would have done honour to any nation. Such is the
+laxity of moral principle, that a woman of unimpeached character is but
+rarely to be found; and I can speak from my own observation and
+experience, that examples of criminal conduct, being of frequent
+occurrence and generally expected, have ceased to be the objects of
+reprobation, and are no longer the subjects of enquiry. What is more
+extraordinary, and shews a deeper sort of depravity, is the circumstance
+that such instances are entirely confined to the married women. These
+are, in their conversation and conduct, indulged, by a kind of general
+consent, with every possible freedom, and, by the extraordinary state
+of manners, are presented by their husbands with every possible facility
+they could desire. A husband and wife in France have generally separate
+apartments, or rather inhabit separate wings of their _hotel_. The
+lady's bed-room is appropriated to herself alone. Its walls would be
+esteemed polluted by any intrusion of the husband. It is there that, in
+an elegant dishabille, she receives the visits of her friends. It is
+secure against observation, or interruption of any kind whatever. It, in
+short, is the sacred palladium of female indiscretion. Much of this
+mischievous licence may, I think, be easily traced to the treatment of
+the younger and unmarried women. They are confined under a
+superintendance which is as rigorous, as the licence allowed to their
+mothers is unbounded. All those affections which begin in their early
+years to develope themselves--all those dispositions which are natural
+to youth, the innocent love of pleasure, and the passion for the society
+of those of their own age, are violently restrained by a system of
+confinement. In their early years, they are either banished by their
+parents to the seclusion of a convent, or are confined in their own
+houses, under the care of a set of severe and withered old women, whom
+they term _bonnes_. The consequence is, that the sullen influence of
+these unkindly beings is reflected upon their pupils, and that when,
+after their marriage, they are permitted to come forth from their
+prison, and mingle in general society, all the sweetness and gentleness
+of their original nature is gone for ever. But to return from this
+digression upon the ladies, other strong points of resemblance might
+easily be pointed out between the French and the native Indian
+character. The same low cunning, the same restless spirit of intrigue,
+the same gross flattery, the same astonishing command of countenance,
+and invariable politeness before strangers, the same complete sacrifice
+of every thing, character, principle, reputation, to the love of money;
+all these strong and melancholy features are clearly distinguishable in
+both. A servant who wishes for a place, a workman who is a candidate for
+employment, a shopkeeper who is anxious for customers, all invariably,
+as in India, pay money to some one who recommends them; and such is the
+poverty of the higher orders, that they compromise the meanness of the
+transaction, and receive these bribes with all the alacrity imaginable;
+and this system, which begins in these lesser transactions, is, in the
+disposal of offices under government, and the regulation of the
+patronage of the crown, the prime mover in France. If an office is to be
+disposed of, the constant phrase in France is, as in India, _il faut
+grassier la pate_. I was acquainted with two judges in France, who made
+not the least scruple to acknowledge that they owed their appointments
+to bribes, delicately administered. The bribes consisted in presents of
+_fruit_, presented in _a gold dish_. The similarity between the French
+and the inhabitants of eastern countries, on their hyperbolical
+compliments, had been observed by Montesquieu, in his Persian Letters,
+before the revolution; and by the effects of that lengthened scene of
+guilt and of confusion, as well as by the consequences of the military
+despotism under Napoleon, it has been increased to so great a degree, as
+to present a parallel more apt and striking than can be easily
+conceived.
+
+The excessive poverty of the higher orders, more particularly amongst
+the old nobility, has not only subjected them to this meanness of taking
+bribes, but has produced also amongst them a species of fawning
+servility of manner towards their inferiors; and this has, in its turn,
+in a great degree destroyed that high feeling of superior rank and
+superior responsibility, and that standard of amiable and noble
+manners, which are amongst the happiest consequences resulting from the
+institution of a hereditary nobility. The consequence of this servility
+amongst the _noblesse_, has inevitably produced a corresponding
+arrogance and insolence in the lower orders. One may see a French
+servant enter his master's room without taking off, or even touching his
+hat, engage in the conversation whilst he is mending the fire, throw
+himself upon a chair, and thus deliver the message he has been entrusted
+with, arrange his neckcloth at the glass, and dance out of the room,
+humming a tune. To an Englishman, this familiarity, from its excessive
+impudence, creates at first more amusement than irritation; but it
+becomes disgusting when we consider its consequences upon national
+manners, and that its causes are to be traced to national crime. I have
+seen a French gentleman take his grocer by the hand, and embracing him,
+hope for his company at supper. This submissive meanness towards their
+tradesmen, is of course much increased by their dread of the day of
+reckoning; and is therefore ultimately the consequence of their poverty.
+
+It happened that an English nobleman, who lately visited France, had
+shewn much kindness to one of the _ancienne noblesse_ during his stay in
+England. For upwards of a year, he had insisted on his living with him
+at his country seat. Upon the eve of leaving England for France, he
+wrote to his old acquaintance, desiring him to take suitable apartments
+for him in Paris. The Frenchman returned a most polite answer,
+expressing how much he felt himself hurt by the idea that his Lordship
+should dream of taking apartments, whilst his hotel was at his service.
+The English nobleman, accordingly, lived for two months at the hotel;
+but to his astonishment, upon taking his departure, Monsieur presented
+him with a regular bill, charging for every article, and including a
+very high rent for the lodgings. This is hardly to be credited by those
+unacquainted with the present condition of France; but I am induced to
+believe the story to be in every particular correct, as the authority
+was unquestionable. This excessive poverty amongst the higher classes,
+their being often unable, from their narrow circumstances, to support a
+house and separate establishment, their living in miserable lodgings
+when they are low in purse, snatching a spare meal at some cheap
+restaurateur's, and being unaccustomed to the comfort of regular meals
+in their own house, is the cause that they are all devotedly and
+generally attached to good eating, whenever they can get it, and that to
+such an excess, that a stranger, in attending a ball supper in France,
+or treating a French party to dinner, will be astonished at the
+perseverance of their palates, and the wonderful expedition with which
+both sexes contrive to travel through the various dishes on the table.
+The behaviour of Sancho at Camacho's wedding, when he rolled his
+delighted eyes over the assembled flesh-pots, is but a prototype of what
+I have witnessed equally in French men and French women upon these
+occasions.
+
+At a ball supper, where it is often impossible in England to prevail
+upon the ladies to taste a morsel, you may see these delicate females of
+France, regale themselves with dressed dishes, swallow, with incredible
+avidity, repeated bowls of strong soup, and after a short interval, sit
+down to potations of hot punch, strong enough to admit of being set on
+fire. Nothing can certainly be more destructive of all ideas of feminine
+delicacy, than to see a beautiful woman with one of these midnight bowls
+burning before her, and when her complexion is rendered livid by its
+flames, looking through this medium like some unknown but voracious
+inhabitant of another world.
+
+An English family of our acquaintance, who had settled at Aix, and who
+wished to see company, imagined, naturally, that it would be necessary
+to go through all the tedious process of preliminary introductions,
+which are necessary in England. A French friend was consulted upon the
+subject, and his advice was as simple as it was effectual: [52]"Donnez
+un souper, cela fera courir tout le monde." Sometime after this,
+happening to be conversing with the same gentleman upon this
+subject:[53] "Soyez bien sur, Monsieur, (said he), que si le diable
+donne a _souper, tout le monde soupera dans l'enfers_."
+
+Versatility, that ruling feature in the French character, ought not to
+be forgotten. They have of late been so accustomed to change, that
+change has become not only natural, but, one would imagine, in some
+measure necessary to their happiness. They change their leaders and
+their sovereigns, with as much apparent ease as they do their fashions.
+On the slightest new impulse, they change their thoughts, their oaths,
+their love, their hatred. In this particular, a French mob is the most
+remarkable thing in the world; they cannot exist without some favourite
+yell, some particular watch-word of the day, or rather of the hour. One
+day it is, [54]"_A bas le tyran! A bas les soldats!_" the next it is
+"_Vive l'Empereur! Vivent les Marchaux! Vive l'armée!_" or it is, "_Vive
+Louis le desiré! Vive le fils de bon Henri!_" and in the next breath,
+"_Vive le nation! Point de loix foedaux! Point des rois! Point de
+noblesse!_" then, "_Point des droits reunis! Point de conscriptions!_"
+and during the desolating æra of the revolution, their favourite cry
+presented an exact picture of the character of the nation--of the same
+nation, which, in these dark days of continual horror, could yet amuse,
+itself by an exhibition of dancing-dogs, under the blood-dropping stage
+of the guillotine; their cry was then, [55]"_Vive la Mort_!" Utterly
+inattentive to these inconsistencies, the French people continue
+willingly to cry out whatever rallying word may be given to them by
+those agents who, working in secret, according to the ruling authorities
+and the prevailing politics of the day, are employed to excite them. The
+calamitous consequence of this mean and thoughtless principle is, that
+they submit themselves to the regulation of all the spies and police
+emissaries who, as the pensioned menials of government, are continually
+insinuating themselves amongst them. Louis XVIII., unaccustomed to this
+system, from his long residence in England, has employed fewer spies
+than Napoleon, and the consequence has been, that the cry of Vive le Roi
+has never been re-echoed with that same high-sounding, though hollow
+enthusiasm, with which they vociferated Vive l'Empereur. An instance of
+the pliability of a French mob occurred a short time before our coming
+to Aix: When Napoleon, on his way to Elba, passed through Moulines, his
+carriage having halted at one of the inns, was immediately surrounded by
+a mob, amongst whom a cry of Vive l'Empereur was instantly raised. The
+Emperor's servants began laughing, and some one amongst, the mob
+imagining it to be in derision, exclaimed, with manifest disappointment,
+"Eh bien, Messieurs, que voulez vous donc; mais allons mes amis! crions
+tous Vive le Roi;" and having once received this new impulse, they not
+only raised, with one consent, a shout of Vive le Roi, but next moment,
+by their menaces, compelled Napoleon, who began to tremble for his
+person, to join in the cry of loyalty. Such was the miserable situation
+of that man, who, in the words of Augereau, [56]"apres avoir immolé des
+millions des victimes, n'a su mourir en soldat;" and such the treatment
+of a French mob to one whose name, the moment before, they had extolled
+with all the symptoms of the most devoted enthusiasm.
+
+    J'ai vu l'impie, adorè sur le terre
+    Pareil au cedre, il cachoit dans le cieux
+              Son front audacieux.
+    Il sembloit a son grè gouverner la tonnere,
+    Fouler aux pieds ses enemis vaincus,
+    Je ne fis que passer, il a'etoit deja plus.
+
+Amidst all their misfortunes, the French people, and more especially the
+peasantry, have contrived to preserve their characteristic gaiety. They
+are still, without, doubt, the most cheerful people in Europe, the least
+liable to any thing like continued depression, and the most easily
+amused by trifles. If we except the peasantry, whose situation is
+comparatively comfortable, they are subject to continual deprivations.
+They are wretchedly poor, and driven by this poverty to meannesses which
+they would in other situations despise. Their labour is frequently
+demanded where refusal is impossible, and obedience attended with no
+remuneration. They themselves are hurried away, if young, to fill up the
+miserable quotas of the conscription; torn from the happiest scenes of
+their youth, and banished from every object of their affection. If old,
+they are doomed to pass their solitary years uncomforted, and
+unsupported. The hopes of their age may have fallen, but amidst all this
+complicated misery, it is indeed most wonderful that they yet continue
+to be cheerful. The accustomed gaiety of their spirits will not even
+then desert them; and meeting with a stranger who enters into
+conversation with them, or seated with a few friends at a caffé, they
+will sip their liqueurs, smoke their segars, and talk with enthusiasm
+of the triumphs and glory of the _grande nation_, although these
+triumphs may have given the fatal blow to all that constituted their
+happiness, and in this glory they may see the graves of their children.
+This is not patriotism: It is a far lower principle. It is produced by
+national pride, vanity, thoughtlessness, a contempt or ignorance of
+domestic happiness, and all this allied to an unconquerable levity and
+heartlessness of disposition. It is not therefore that severe but noble
+principle, the silent offspring between thought and sorrow, which
+soothes at least where it cannot cure, and alleviates the acuteness of
+individual sufferings, by the consolation that our friends have fallen
+in the courageous execution of their duty. It has in its composition
+none of those higher feelings, but is more an instinct, and one too of a
+shallow and degrading nature, than any thing like a steady and
+regulating moral principle.
+
+This, however, which makes them unconscious to any thing like
+unhappiness, renders them, under imprisonment, banishment, and
+deprivation, more able to endure the hardships and reverses of war than
+any other troops.
+
+It is perhaps an improper word in speaking of imprisonment and
+banishment to a Frenchman, to say they endure it better; the truth is,
+they do not feel it so acutely, and the reason is, that the military,
+owing to their restless and wandering life, are comparatively less
+attached than other troops to their native country. They suffer better,
+because they feel less.
+
+In courage the English soldiers certainly equal them, and in physical
+strength they far surpass them; but the mind of a Frenchman is, for hard
+service, far better constituted than that of an Englishman. Nothing, it
+is well known, is so difficult as to rally an English force after any
+thing approaching even to a defeat. This is by no means the case with
+the French, and the history of the last campaign, preceding the
+restoration of the Borbons, contains a detailed account of many
+successive' defeats, after which the French army rallied and fought as
+undauntedly as before; and during the last war there was not perhaps a
+single battle contended with more determination than that of Toulouse.
+
+In regard to the lower orders of the peasantry, it is amongst them alone
+that we can yet distinctly discern the last traces of the ancient French
+character. They are certainly, from the sale of the great landed estates
+at the revolution, (which, divided into small farms, were bought by the
+lower orders,) for the most part comparatively in a rich and independent
+situation; and poverty is far more generally felt by the higher classes
+of the nation, than by the regular peasantry of the country. Yet with
+all this, they have become neither insolent nor haughty to their
+superiors; and you will meet at this day with more real unsophisticated
+politeness, and more active civility amongst the present French
+peasantry, than is to be found among the nobility or the soldiery of the
+nation.
+
+It is to them alone that the hopes of the revival of the French nation
+must ultimately turn. It is from this quarter that France, if she is
+ever to possess them, must alone derive those pacific energies, which,
+whilst they may render her as a nation less generally terrible, will yet
+cause her to be more individually happy.
+
+In every country, we must regard the peasantry as the sinews and stamina
+of the state. They are, in every respect, to the nation what the heart
+is to the individual; the centre from which health, energy and vigour
+must be imparted to the remotest portions of the political body. If such
+is the rank held by the peasantry _in all countries_, much more
+important: is the station which they at present fill in _France_, and
+far more momentous (owing to the circumstances in which that kingdom now
+stands), are the duties which they owe to their country. It is there
+alone that any sufficient antidote can be found for that political
+misery, occasioned by such a course of unprincipled national triumphs,
+as had been so long the boast of France, and which we have so lately
+closed in all the splendour of legitimate victory. It is to them that
+the court must look for the restoration of that moral principle, which,
+under the administration of the late Emperor, it so thoroughly despised:
+It is to them that the army must look for the restoration of those high
+feelings of military honour, which we shall seek in vain in the present
+soldiery of France: It is from them that the great landed proprietors
+and the country gentlemen (if that honourable name is ever again to be
+realised in France), must learn to sacrifice their schemes of individual
+enjoyment, and to renounce the dissipations of the capital for the
+severer duties which await them in the interior of the kingdom.
+
+I have before mentioned that civility and politeness which is still so
+characteristic of the peasantry of the kingdom. In addition to this,
+from every thing I could observe, they appeared to be really
+comfortable, and their invariable cheerfulness was accompanied by that
+flow of easy unpremeditated mirth, which gave us the impression that
+they were really happy. In the streets of Paris, and in the different
+ranks of society in the capital, you see, I think, the same outward
+symptoms of happiness; but, in many instances, their high sounding
+expressions of joy appear more like the wish to be happy, than the sober
+possession of happiness. The soldiery, in particular, seem, by their
+loud and repeated sallies, to have embraced a desperate kind of plan, of
+actually roaring themselves into forgetfulness; whereas the peasantry of
+the kingdom, after having passed the day in the labour of their fields
+or vineyards, dispersing in little troops through their village, the old
+to converse over the stories of their youth, the young dancing to the
+pipe and tabor, or singing in little groupes, arranged on the green
+seats under their orchard trees, appear, without effort, to sink into
+that enviable state of unforced enjoyment, which falls upon their minds
+as easily and calmly as the sleep of Heaven upon their eyelids.
+
+Amongst the French, dancing is that strong and prevailing passion which
+is found in every rank in society, which is confined to no sex, nor
+age, nor figure, but is universally disseminated throughout every
+portion of the kingdom; from the cottage to the court, from the cradle
+to the grave, the French invariably dance when they can seize an
+opportunity. Nay, the older the individual, the more vigorous seems to
+be the passion. Wrinkles may furrow the face, but lassitude never
+attacks the limbs.
+
+It is their singular perseverance in this favourite pursuit which
+renders a French ball to a stranger more than commonly ludicrous. In
+England, when the company begins to assemble, you are delighted with the
+troops of young and blooming girls, who throng into the dancing room,
+with faces beaming with the desire, and forms bounding with the
+anticipation of pleasure. In France, you must conceive the room to be
+superbly lighted up, and the walls covered with large mirrors, which, in
+their indefinite multiplication, suffer nothing, however ludicrous, to
+escape them. The folding doors slowly open, and there begins to hobble
+in, (as quick as their advanced years will permit them,) unnumbered
+forms of aged ladies and gentlemen, intermixed with some possessing
+certainly the firmer step of middle life, but few or none who dare
+pretend to the activity of youth. On one side comes the old _Marquis_,
+dressed in the extremity of the fashion, every ruffle replete with
+effect, and not a curl but what he would tremble to remove, stepping,
+with the most finished complacency, at the side of some antiquated dame
+of sixty, who minces and rustles at his side in the costume of sixteen.
+Previous to the dancing, it is indeed ridiculous to observe the series
+of silent tendernesses, the sly looks and fascinating glances with which
+these old worthies entertain each other. Meanwhile the music strikes up,
+and the floor is instantly covered with waltzers. It is well known, that
+the waltz is a dance, above all others, requiring grace and youth, and
+activity in those who perform it. Nothing, therefore, to a stranger, can
+be more entertaining, than the sight of those motley and aged couples,
+who, with a desperate resolution, stand up to bid defiance to the
+warnings of nature; and who, after they have first swallowed a tumbler
+of punch, (which is their constant practice,) begin to reel round with
+the waltzers, putting you in mind of Miss Edgeworth's celebrated Irish
+horse, _Knockegroghery_, who needed to have porter poured down his
+throat, and to be warmed in his harness, before he could achieve any
+thing like continued motion. In England, few ladies, unless those who
+are extremely young, ever dream of dancing after their marriage. In
+France, the young ladies before marriage are seldom admitted into
+company; after marriage, therefore, their gaiety instantly commences,
+and continues literally until the total failure of the physical powers
+of nature puts an end to the ability, though not to the love of
+pleasure. Any thing, therefore, it may be well believed, which comes
+between the French ladies and this mania for dancing, produces no
+ordinary effect. One of our party observed at a ball, a French lady of
+quality in the deepest mourning. On coming up to her, she remarked to
+the English lady, with a face of much melancholy, that her situation was
+indeed deplorable. "Look at me," said she, "these are the weeds for my
+mother, who has only been two months dead. Do you see these odious black
+gloves; they will not permit me to join in your amusements; but oh! how
+the heart dances, when the feet can't." "Come, come," said another
+female waltzer of fifty, whose round little body we had traced at
+intervals, rolling and pirouetting about the room; "come, we forget that
+the fast of Ash Wednesday begins at twelve. We may sup well before
+twelve, but not a morsel after it. We have but one short hour to eat,
+but we may dance, you know, all night."
+
+By our acquaintance with the best society in Aix, we have enjoyed no
+unfavourable opportunity of forming an idea of the present condition of
+society in the south of France. One of the first circumstances which we
+all remarked, and which has probably occurred to most who have
+associated in French society, was the wide range over which the titles
+of nobility extended. We indeed heard, that at Aix, where we resided,
+and at Toulouse, there were to be found more of the old nobility than in
+any other parts of France. These towns were, on account of the cheapness
+of living, the depôts of the emigrant gentlemen whose fortunes had been
+reduced by the revolution, the receptacles of the ancient aristocracy of
+France. Yet even making every allowance for this circumstance, when we
+recollect the appearance and manners of many who were dignified by the
+titles of Marquis, Counts and Barons, it was impossible not to feel
+that, when compared with our own country, there was a kind of
+profanation of the aristocracy; and I should not be much surprised, if
+it was afterwards discovered, by some who would take the pains to
+investigate the subject narrowly, that in these remote parts of the
+kingdom, there subsisted a species of silent understood compact, by
+which the parties agreed, that if the one was dignified by his friends
+with the title of _Marquis_, he would in his turn make no scruple to
+favour the other with the appellation of _Count_. Certainly, when
+requested to explain the principles upon which titles of dignity
+descended, the account given by these noblemen themselves was quite
+unsatisfactory, and nearly unintelligible. The different orders also of
+knighthood, appeared to us to be very widely extended. The Chevaliers de
+St Louis were literally swarming. You could scarcely enter a shop, where
+you did not instantly discover one or more of these gentry sitting on
+the counter, conversing with the shopkeeper, or flirting with his
+daughter or wife. In their dress and general appearance in the forenoon,
+there appeared to be an unlimited latitude of shabbiness allowed both to
+the ladies and gentlemen; while in the evening, on the contrary, whether
+at home or abroad, we found them uniformly handsomely, and, making
+allowance for the difference of national costume, often elegantly drest.
+Nothing, indeed, could be more singular than the contrast between the
+extraordinary apparel of the same ladies (and those ladies of quality,
+marchionesses and countesses) whom we had visited at their own houses
+in the forenoon, and their appearance, when we met them in the evening,
+at the public concerts or private parties given at Aix. In the morning,
+you will find them receiving visits in their bed-rooms in the most
+complete dishabille; their night-cap not removed, a little bed-gown
+thrown carelessly over them; their hair in papillots, and their handsome
+ancles covered by coarse list slippers. In the evening, the _bonnet de
+nuit_ is discarded, and a snow-white plume of feathers waves upon its
+former foundation; the little bed-gown is thrown aside, and a superb
+robe of satin rustles and glitters in its stead; the head, instead of
+being bristled with papillots, is clothed with the most luxuriant curls;
+and the unrivalled foot and ancle display at once, in the beauty of
+their shape and the elegance of their decoration, the bounty of nature
+and the unwearied assiduity of nature's assistant journeymen--the
+shoemakers. The style of French parties is certainly very dissimilar to
+those we are accustomed to in our own country. And this difference is
+easily to be traced to the remarkable differences in the character of
+the two nations. To the prevailing influence of the fancy, the power of
+imagination and the love of amusement amongst the French, and to those
+ideas of sober sense, that spirit of phlegmatic indifference, and the
+engrossing influence of public employments, which are remarkable in the
+English nation. During our residence in the south, we were invited by
+the Countess de R---- to a ball, which, she told us, was given in honour
+of her son's birth-day. We went accordingly, and were first received in
+the card-rooms, which we found brilliantly lighted and decorated, and
+full of company. We were then conducted into another handsome apartment
+fitted up as a theatre. The curtain rose, and the young Count de R----
+tripped lightly from behind the scenes, with the most complete
+self-possession, and at the same time, with great elegance, begun a
+little address to the audience, apologising for his inability to amuse
+them as he could have wished, and concluded his address, by singing,
+with a great deal of action, two French songs. He then skipped nimbly
+off the stage and returned, leading in the principal actress at the
+theatre here, M. de----. They performed together a little dramatic
+interlude composed for the occasion; the company then adjourned into the
+card-rooms, and the evening concluded by a ball. At another private
+party we attended when the company were assembled; a folding door flew
+open, and a party of ladies and gentlemen, fantastically drest as
+shepherds and shepherdesses, flew into the room, and to our great
+amusement, began acting with their pipes and crooks and garlands, and
+all the paraphernalia of pastoral life, those employments of rural
+labour, or scenes of rustic courtship, which, in their public
+amusements, we have before remarked as peculiar favourites with the
+French people.
+
+If, as we have above remarked, for the hopes of the restoration of
+truth, and honour, and principle, in France, we must turn to the lower
+orders, it will not, I trust, be thought too trifling to observe, that
+any thing like real excellence in music, another favourite national
+propensity, is, as far as we could observe, to be found in the peasantry
+alone. The music of the capital, the modern compositions performed at
+the opera, the prevailing songs of the day, are all noisy, unmeaning,
+unharmonious (I speak, of course, merely from personal feeling, and with
+deference to those better able to form an opinion upon the subject;) but
+it is impossible to hear the unharmonious crash which proceeds from the
+orchestra of the opera, without immediately recollecting the celebrated
+pun of Rosseau: "Pour l'Academie de musique, certainement il fait le
+plus du bruit du monde." On the other hand, it is amongst the peasantry
+alone that you now find the ancient music of France. Those airs which
+are so deeply associated with all the glory and gallantry of the old
+monarchy; those songs of olden times, which were chanted by the
+wandering Troubadours, as they returned from foreign wars to their
+native vallies, and whose simple melody recalls the days of chivalry in
+which they arose: these, and all others of the same æra, which once
+composed in truth the national music of this great people, are no longer
+to be found amongst the higher classes of the community. But they still
+exist among the peasantry. The vine-dresser, as he begins, with the
+rising sun, his labours in the vineyards; or the poor muleteer, as he
+drives his cattle to the water, will chant, as he goes along, those
+ancient airs, which, in all their native simplicity, he has heard from
+his fathers; and which, in other days, have echoed through the halls of
+feudal pride, or have been sung in the bowers of listening beauty. Of
+the prevalence of this refined taste in poetry among the lower orders of
+the peasantry, the following fragment of an old ballad, still very
+commonly sung to the ancient Troubadour air by the peasantry of
+Provence, may be given as a familiar instance:
+
+
+LE TROUBADOUR.
+
+    Un gentil Troubadour
+    Qui chant et fait la guerre,
+    Revennit chez son Pere
+    Revant a son amour.
+    Gages de sa valeur
+    Suspendus en echarpe,
+    Son epée et sa harpe
+    Croisaient sur son cœur.
+
+    Il rencontre en chemin
+    Pelerine jolie
+    Qui voyage et qui prie
+    Un rosaire a la main,
+    Colerette aux longs plies
+    Gouvre sa fine taille,
+    Et grande chapeau de paille
+    Cache son front divin.
+
+    "Ah! gentil Troubadour,
+    Si tu reviens fidele,
+    Chant un couplet pour celle
+    Qui benit ton retour."
+    "Pardonnez mon refus,
+    Pelerine jolie,
+    Sans avoir vu m'amie,
+    Je ne chanterai plus."
+
+    "Ne la revois tu pas--
+    Oh Troubadour fidele,
+    Regarde la--C'est elle,
+    Ouvre lui donc tes bras.
+    Priant pour notre amour
+    J'allois en pelerine
+    A la vierge divine
+    Demander son secours."
+
+I believe no apology need be made for subjoining here, another very
+favourite song in the French army: One of our party heard it sung by a
+body of French soldiers, who were on their return to their homes, from
+the campaign of Moscow.
+
+
+LA CENTINELLE.
+
+    L'Astre de nuit dans son paisible eclat
+    Lanca ses feux sur les tentes de la France,
+    Non loin de camp un jeune et beau soldat
+    Ainsi chantoit appuyè sur sa lance.
+
+    "Allez, volez, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes vœux vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    Que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie.
+
+    L'Astre de jour r'animera le combat,
+    Demain il faut signaler ma valence;
+    Dans la victoire on trouve le trepas,
+    Mais si je meura an coté de ma lance,--
+
+    Volez encore, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes regrets vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+        Que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie."
+
+It is certainly productive of no common feelings, when, in travelling
+into the interior of the country, you find these beautiful songs, so
+much despised in the metropolis! of the nation, still lingering in their
+native vallies, and shedding their retiring sweetness over those scenes
+to which they owed their birth.
+
+How much is it to be desired that some man of genius, some lover of the
+real glory of his country, would collect, with religious hand, these
+scattered flowers, which are so fast sinking into decay, and again raise
+into general estimation the beautiful and forgotten music of his native
+land.
+
+In a discussion upon French manners, and the present condition of French
+society, it is impossible but that one great and leading observation
+must almost immediately present itself, and the truth of which, on
+whatever side, or to whatever class of society you may turn, becomes
+only the more apparent as you take the longer time to consider it; this
+is, that the French _carry on every thing in public_. That every thing,
+whether it is connected with business or with pleasure, whether it
+concerns the more serious affair of political government, or the pursuit
+of science, or the cultivation of art, or whether it is allied only to a
+taste for society, to the gratification of individual enjoyment, to the
+passing occupations of the day, or the pleasures of the evening--all, in
+short, either of serious, or of lighter nature, is open and public. It
+is carried on abroad, where every eye may see, and every ear may listen.
+Every one who has visited France since the revolution must make this
+remark. The first thing that strikes a stranger is, that a Frenchman has
+_no home_: He lives in the middle of the public; he breakfasts at a
+caffé; his wife and family generally do the same. During the day, he
+perhaps debates in the Corps Legislatif, or sleeps over the essays in
+the Academie des Sciences, or takes snuff under the Apollo, or talks of
+the fashions of the Nouvelle Cour, at the side of the Venus de Medicis,
+or varies the scene by feeding the bears in the Jardin des Plantes. He
+then dines abroad at a restaurateur's. His wife either is there with
+him, or perhaps she prefers a different house, and frequents it alone.
+His sons and daughters are left to manage matters as they best can. The
+sons, therefore, frequent their favourite caffés, whilst the daughters
+remain confined under the care of their _bonnes_ or _duennas_. In the
+evening he strolls about the Palais, joins some friend or another, with
+whom he takes his caffé, and sips his liqueurs in the Salon de Paix or
+Milles Colonnes; he then adjourns to the opera, where, for two hours, he
+will twist himself into all the appropriate contortions of admiration,
+and vent his joy, in the strangest curses of delight, the moment that
+Bigottini makes her appearance upon the stage; and, having thus played
+those many parts which compose his motley day, he will return at night
+to his own lodging, perfectly happy with the manner he has employed it,
+and ready, next morning, to recommence, with recruited alacrity, the
+same round of heterogeneous enjoyment. Such is, in fact, an epitome of
+the life of all Frenchmen, who are not either bourgeoise, employed
+constantly in their shops during the day, or engaged in the civil or
+military avocations--of those who are in the same situation in France,
+as our gentlemen of independent fortune in England. Another peculiarity
+is, that the Frenchmen of the present day are not only always abroad, in
+the midst _of the public_, but that they invariably flock from the
+interior of the kingdom into Paris, and there engage in those public
+exhibitions, and bustle about in that endless routine of business or
+pleasure, which is passing in the capital. The French nobility, and the
+men of property who still remain in the kingdom, invariably spend their
+lives in Paris. Their whole joy consists la exhibiting themselves in
+public in the capital. Their magnificent chateaus, their parks, their
+woods and fields, and their ancient gardens, decorated by the taste, and
+often cultivated by the hands of their fathers, are allowed to fall into
+unpitied ruin. If they retire for a few weeks to their country seat, it
+is only to collect the rents from their neglected peasantry, to curse
+themselves for being condemned to the _triste sejour_ of their paternal
+estate; and, after having thus replenished their coffers, to dive again
+from their native woods, with renewed strength, into all the publicity
+and dissipation of the capital. This was not always the state of things
+in France. Previous to, and during the reign of Henry IV. the manners,
+the society, and the mode of life of the nobility and gentlemen of the
+kingdom, were undoubtedly different The country was not then deserted
+for the town; the industry of the peasantry was exerted under the
+immediate eye of the proprietor; and his happiness formed, we may
+believe, no inferior object in the mind of his master; If we look at
+the domestic memoirs which describe the condition of France in these
+ancient days, we shall find that even from the early age of Francis I.
+till the commencement of the political administration of Richelieu, the
+situation of this country presented a very different picture; and that
+the lives of the country gentlemen were passed in a very opposite manner
+from that unnatural state of the kingdom to which we have above alluded.
+Even the condition of the interior of the kingdom, as it is now seen,
+points to this happier state of things. Their chateaus, which are now
+deserted,--their silent chambers, with tarnished gilding and decaying
+tapestry, remind us of the days when the old nobleman was proud to spend
+his income on the decoration and improvement of his property; the
+library, on whose walls we see the family pictures, in those hunting and
+shooting dresses which tell of the healthier exercises of a country
+retirement; whilst on the shelves, there sleeps undisturbed the
+forgotten literature of the Augustan age of France--all this evidently
+shows, that there was once, at least, to be found in the interior of the
+kingdom, another and a different state of things. In the essays of
+Montaigne, the private life of a French gentleman is admirably
+depicted. His days appear to have been divided between his family, his
+library, and his estate. A French nobleman lived then happy in the seat
+of his ancestors. His family grew up around him; and he probably visited
+the town as rarely as the present nobility do the country,--the
+education of his children,--the care of his peasantry,--the rural
+labours of planting and gardening,--the sports of the country,--the
+_grandes chasses_ which he held in his park, surrounded by troops of
+servants who had been born on his estate, and who evinced their
+affection by initiating the young heir into all the mysteries of the
+chase, the enjoyment of the society of his friends and neighbours; all
+these varied occupations filled up the happy measure of his useful and
+enviable existence. The life of the country proprietor in these older
+days of France, assimilated, in short, in a great degree to the present
+manner of life amongst the same classes which is still observable in
+England.
+
+It is impossible to conceive any thing more striking than the difference
+between this picture of a French chateau in these older days, and the
+condition in which you find them at the present moment. We once visited
+the chateau of one of the principal noblemen in Provence; and he
+himself had the politeness to accompany us. The situation of the castle
+was perfectly beautiful; but on coming nearer, every thing showed that
+it was completely neglected. The different rooms, which were once
+superb, were now bare and unfurnished. The walks through the park, the
+seats and temples in the woods, and the superb gardens, were speedily
+going to decay. The surface of his ponds, in the midst of which the
+fountains still played, were covered with weeds, and the rank grass was
+waving round the bases of the marble statues, which were placed at the
+termination of the green alleys; every thing showed the riches, the
+care, and the taste of a former generation, and the carelessness, and
+neglect of the present. On remonstrating with the proprietor, he
+defended himself by telling us how lonely he should feel at such a
+distance from Paris: "_C'est toujours ici (said he), un triste sejour_."
+A collation was served up, and after this, being in want of amusement,
+he opened a closet in the corner of the room, and discovered to us, in
+its recess, a vast variety of toys, which he began to exhibit to the
+ladies, telling us, "that when forced to live in the country, he
+diverted his solitary hours with these entertaining little affairs."
+
+Nothing certainly can be more striking than this contrast between the
+modern and ancient life of a French proprietor or nobleman; and it is a
+question which must necessarily arise in the mind of every one, who has
+observed this remarkable difference, what are the causes to which so
+great a change is owing? Perhaps, if we look into it, this extraordinary
+change will be found to have arisen chiefly out of the vigorous, but
+dangerous policy of that age, when, under the administration of
+Richelieu, the power of the sovereign rose upon the ruins of the
+aristocracy--when the institution of standing armies first began to be
+systematically followed--and when, by the perfection of their police,
+and that vilest of all inventions, their espionage, the comfort, the
+security, and the confidence of society was destroyed, by the secret
+influence of these poisonous and pensioned menials of government. In the
+successful accomplishment of these three great objects, was involved the
+destruction of that older state of France, which was to be seen under
+Henry III. and IV. The schemes by which Richelieu succeeded in drawing
+the nobility from the interior of the country to Paris, the style of
+splendid living, sumptuous expences, and magnificent entertainments
+which he introduced, produced two unhappy effects; it removed them from
+their country seats, and forced them at the same time to drain their
+estates, in order to defray their increasing expences in the capital. It
+made them dependent in a great measure upon the crown; and thus tied
+them down to Paris. On the other hand, by what has been termed his
+_admirable_ police, by his encouragement to all informers, by the
+jealousy of any thing like private intercourse, he rendered the
+retirement of their homes, the fire-side of their families, instead of
+that sacred spot, around which was once seated all the charities of
+life, the very center of all that was hollow, gloomy, and suspicious. It
+was in this manner that the French seem actually to have been driven
+from the society of their families, to seek a kind of desperate solitude
+in public; and that which was at first a necessity, has, in the progress
+of time, become an established habit. But I have to apologise for
+introducing, in a chapter of this light nature, and that perhaps in too
+strong language, these vague conjectures upon so serious a subject as
+this change in the condition of French society.
+
+One necessary effect of the taste for publicity, formerly mentioned, is,
+that in France every thing is in some way or other attempted to be made
+a _spectacle_; and this favourite word itself has gradually grown into
+such universal usage, that it has acquired such power over the minds of
+all classes of the people, as to be hardly ever out of their mouths.
+Whatever they are describing, be it grave or gay, serious or ludicrous,
+a comedy or a tragedy, a scene in the city or in the country; in short,
+every thing, of whatever nature or character it may chance to be, which
+is seen in public, is included under this all-comprehensive term; and
+the very highest praise which can be given it, is, "Ah Monsieur, c'est
+un _vrai_ spectacle. C'est un spectacle tout a _fait superbe_." It is
+this taste for spectacles, this inordinate passion for every thing
+producing _effect_, every thing which can add in this manner to what
+they conceive ought to be the necessary arrangement in all public
+exhibitions, which has, in many of these exhibitions, completely
+destroyed all the deeper feelings which they would otherwise naturally
+be calculated to produce. It is this taste which has created that
+dreadful and disgusting anomaly in national antiquities, the Museé des
+Monumens François, which has mangled and dilapidated the monuments of
+the greatest men, and the memorials of the proudest days of France, to
+produce in Paris a spectacle worthy of the _grande nation_. It is this
+same taste, which, in that solemn commemoration of the death of their
+king, the _service solennel_ for Louis XVI. contrived to introduce a
+species of affected parade,--a detailed and theatrical sort of grief,--a
+kind of meretricious mummery of sorrow, which banished all the feelings,
+and almost completely destroyed the impression which such a scene in any
+other country would inevitably have produced. Any thing, it may be
+easily imagined, which gratifies this general taste for public
+exhibitions, and any thing which is fitted to increase their effect, is
+greeted by the French with the highest applause. One would have
+imagined, that the first appearance of Lord Wellington in the French
+opera, would, to most Frenchmen, have been a circumstance certainly not
+to make an exhibition of: Very far from it--The presence of Lord
+Wellington added greatly to the general effect of the spectacle. This
+was all the French thought of; and he was received, if possible, with
+more enthusiastic applause, and more reiterated greetings than the royal
+family of France. Would a French conqueror have met with the same
+reception in the opera at London?
+
+When the reviews of the Russian troops were daily occurring in the Champ
+de Mars, an anxiety to examine the state of their discipline, and the
+general condition of their army, induced us punctually to attend them.
+What was our astonishment, when we saw _several_ barouches full of
+French ladies, seemingly taking the greatest delight in superintending
+the manœuvres of the very men who had conquered the armies, and occupied
+the capital of their country; and delighted with the attentions which
+were paid them by the different Russian officers who had led them to
+victory?
+
+But there is yet another exhibition in Paris, which is at once the most
+singular in its nature, and which shows, in the very strongest light,
+this general deep-set passion in the French, for the creation of what
+they imagine the necessary _effect_ which ought to be attended to in
+every thing which is displayed in public, I mean that extraordinary
+exhibition which they term the Catacombs. These catacombs are large
+subterraneous excavations, which stretch themselves to a great extent
+under Paris; and which were originally the quarries which furnished the
+stones for building the greater part of that capital. You arrive at them
+by descending, by torch light, a narrow winding stair, which strikes
+perpendicularly into the bosom of the earth; and which, although its
+height is not above 70 feet, leads you to a landing-place, so dark and
+dismal, that it might be as well in the centre of the earth as so near
+its surface. After walking for a considerable time through different
+obscure subterranean streets, you arrive at the great stone gate of the
+catacombs, above which you can read by the light of the torches, "_The
+Habitation of the Dead._" On entering, you find yourself in a dark wide
+hall, supported by broad stone pillars, with a low arched roof, the
+further end of which is hid in complete obscurity; but the walls of
+which, (as they are illuminated by the livid and feeble gleam of the
+torches), are discovered to be completely formed of human bones. All
+this, as far as I have yet described,--- the subterranean streets which
+you traverse,--the dark gate of the great hall, over which you read the
+simple but solemn inscription,--and the gloom and silence of the
+chambers, whose walls you discover to be furnished in this terrible
+manner, is fitted to produce a most deep and powerful effect. To find
+yourself the only living being, surrounded on every side by the dead; to
+be the only thing that possesses the consciousness of existence, while
+millions of those who have once _been_ as you _are_--millions of all
+ages, from the infant who has just looked in upon this world, in its
+innocent road to heaven, to the aged, who has fallen in the fullness of
+years;--and the young, the gay, and the beautiful of former centuries,
+lie all cold and silent around you:--it is impossible that these deep
+and united feelings should not powerfully affect the mind,--should not
+lead it to rivet its thoughts upon that last scene, which all are to act
+alone, and where, in the cold and unconscious company of the dead, we
+are here destined to "end the strange, eventful history" of our nature:
+But unfortunately, the guide, who now approaches you, insists upon your
+examining the details, which he conceives it is his duty to point out;
+and it is then that you discover, that this prevailing taste for
+producing effect, this love of the arrangements necessary to complete
+the _spectacle_, has invaded even this sacred receptacle. The ornaments
+which he points out, and which are curiously framed of the whitest and
+most polished bones; little altars which are built of the same materials
+in the corners of the chambers, and crowned with what the artists have
+imagined the handsomest skulls; and the frequent poetical quotations,
+which, upon a nearer view, you discern upon the walls;--all this, in the
+very worst style of French taste, evinces, that the same unhallowed
+hands which had dared to violate the monuments of their heroes, have not
+scrupled to intrude their presumptuous and miserable efforts, even into
+the humbler sanctuary allotted to the dead.
+
+I have above described the singular, and, to a stranger, most
+entertaining scenes which take place at the French balls. If, however,
+owing to this extraordinary state of manners, to the ludicrous ardour of
+the old ladies, and the very moderate proportion of the young ones, a
+French ball is more the scene of aged folly, than of youthful pleasure,
+it must be allowed, that in another style of society, their lesser
+parties, they far excel us. The conversation in these is easy, natural,
+and often even fascinating. The terms of polite familiarity with which
+you yourself are regarded, and with which you are encouraged to treat
+all around you; the absence of every thing like stiffness, or formality;
+the little interludes of music, in which, either in singing, or in
+performing on some instrument, most of those you meet are able to take a
+part; the round games which are often introduced, and where all forget
+themselves to be happy, and to make others so,--this species of party is
+certainly something far superior to those crowded assemblies, engrafted
+now, as it would appear, with general consent, upon English society;
+and which, with a ludicrous perversity, we have denominated by that
+sacred word of Home, which has so long connected itself with scenes of
+tranquil and unobtrusive enjoyment.
+
+After having given such a picture of the general state of French
+society, as we have presented in this chapter, it would be highly unjust
+if we did not mention, that to the above descriptions of life and
+manners, we found many exceptions. That we met with many very
+intelligent men, of liberal education and gentlemanly conduct; and that
+in the town where we resided, and indeed generally during our travels,
+we experienced the greatest hospitality and kindness. The most amiable
+features in the French character are shewn in their conduct to
+strangers. But this is one of the few points in which we think they
+deserve the imitation of our countrymen; and we have been the more full
+in our observations upon their faults, because we trust that there may
+ever remain a marked difference between the two nations.
+
+The present we consider as the moment when all those who have had
+opportunities of judging of the French character, ought in duty to make
+public the information they have collected; for it is now that a more
+perfect intercourse must produce its effects upon the two nations; and
+taking it as an established maxim, that "vice to be hated, needs only to
+be seen," we have thus hastily laid our observations before the public,
+claiming their indulgence for the manifold faults to which our anxious
+desire to avail ourselves of the favourable moment has unavoidably given
+rise.
+
+
+REGISTER OF THE WEATHER.
+
+The climate of the south of France is, very generally, recommended for
+those invalids who are suffering under pulmonary complaints. The author
+of the foregoing work having resided at Aix, in Provence, during the
+winter months, has thought it right to publish the following short
+Register of the Weather, for the use of those who may have it in view to
+try the benefit of change of climate. His object is to show, that
+although, in general, the climate is much milder than in England or
+Scotland, yet there is much greater variety than is generally imagined.
+Upon the whole, he conceives, that he derived considerable benefit from
+his residence at Aix. But such were the difficulties in travelling, and
+so great was the want of comfort in the houses in the south of France,
+that he is of opinion, that in most cases a residence in Devonshire
+would be found fully as beneficial.
+
+* * *
+
+From experience in his own case, he can venture to affirm, that where
+the patient, labouring under a pulmonary complaint, visits the south of
+France, he should perform the journey by sea, which appears to him as
+beneficial as the land journey is hurtful.
+
+* * *
+
+In keeping the following Register, the thermometer was in the shade,
+though in a warm situation. The time of observation was between 12 and 1
+in France, and between 10 and 11 in Edinburgh.
+
+
+=AIX.=
+
+Dec.                                                                 _Ther_
+
+12.  Air delightful, like a fine day in June--sun very powerful,      60-1/4
+
+13.  The air rather damp and heavy--the sun very powerful,            65-3/4
+
+14.  Excepting in the sun, it was cold to-day,
+like to a spring day--the _Vent de Bise_ prevailed in the morning,    59
+
+15.  Frosty day--but between twelve and two the sun powerful,
+and the climate delightful,                                           56-3/4
+
+16.  The air frosty, but the sun very powerful--temperature
+delightful, though sharp and bracing--air very dry,                   56-3/4
+
+17.  Air more mild--sun exceedingly hot--this was a charming day--the
+air still sufficiently bracing,                                       59
+
+18.  No sun to-day--very mild air, but damp,                          54-1/2
+
+19.  No sun to-day--air very damp, and a little rain--a mild day,
+but very disagreeable,                                                56-3/4
+
+20.  Rain all night--thick mist in the morning, air damp--at twelve,
+the day broke up, and it was pleasant,                                54-1/2
+
+21.  Rain in the night--day damp, raw and cold,                       52-1/4
+
+22.  Day cleared up about twelve--air rather damp and raw--a
+great deal of rain in the night,                                      52-1/4
+
+23.  Clear day, but wind fresh and cold--pleasant in the sun,         53-1/2
+
+24.  Clear day--wind fresh and unpleasant--air damp,                  53-1/2
+
+25.  Clear day--wind very cold, but pleasant in the sun,              52-1/4
+
+26.  Day very cloudy, with rain--rain all night--air damp
+and very cold,                                                        50
+
+27.  Day still cloudy, though clearing up--air rather raw,            52-1/2
+
+28.  Day clear, morning frosty, but at noon temperature delightful,   54-1/2
+
+29.  Day clear, frosty, at twelve most charming,                      54-1/2
+
+30.  The same as yesterday,                                           54-1/2
+
+31.  Ditto,     ditto,                                                54-1/2
+
+1815. Jan. 1.  Day frosty, very cold in the morning, ice of one-fourth
+of an inch on the pools; at twelve most delightful in the sun,        52-1/4
+
+2.  Clear frosty day, very pleasant in the sun,                       52-1/4
+
+3.  Dark, cloudy, raw and cold; no going out,                         45-1/2
+
+4.  A clear frosty day, very cold, but pleasant in the sun,           47-3/4
+
+5.  Intensely cold and cloudy; no sun,                                40
+
+6.  Intensely cold, a bitter wind, cloudy, and no sun,                41
+
+7.  Not quite so cold, but raw, windy and disagreeable;
+snow at night,                                                        47-3/4
+
+8.  Very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,                      44-3/4
+
+9.  The same as yesterday,                                            43-1/4
+
+10.  Air much milder; very pleasant in the sun,                       50
+
+11.  Cold and windy; air rather raw; the _mistral_ blowing,           50
+
+12.  Cold and windy; _mistral_ blowing,                               45-1/2
+
+13.  Wind fallen, but cold continues; air more dry,                   44-1/4
+
+14.  Snow in the night, rain in the morning; cold and raw day,        45-1/2
+
+15.  Cold, but more dry; no sun, very unpleasant, and every
+appearance of snow,                                                   43-1/4
+
+16.  Snow in the night, dry cold day, but brilliant and
+powerful sun,                                                         41
+
+17.  Very high _mistral_, blowing intensely cold; air milder
+than yesterday,                                                       43-1/4
+
+18.  Still very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,               43-1/4
+
+19.  Cold increased, hard frost; not wind,                            34-1/4
+
+20.  Cold continues, but not so severe,                               38-3/4
+
+21.  Clear frosty day, but cold diminished; delightful
+in the sun,                                                           43-1/4
+
+22.  Clear frosty day, but cold; sun very powerful                    43-1/4
+
+23.  Clear frosty day, sun pleasant,                                  48-1/4
+
+24.  Cloudy and damp, but air milder; no sun,                         43-1/4
+
+25.  Rain the greater part of the day, cloudy and damp; air milder,   43-1/4
+
+26.  Cloudy all day, but air milder,                                  47-3/4
+
+27.  Cloudy and damp; but the air very mild,                          50
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto                                             50
+
+29.  Day clear and sunny, very pleasant                               54-1/2
+
+30.  Rainy all day long; air colder,                                  50
+
+31.  Day clears up, but air moist; air mild,                          54-1/2
+
+Feb. 1.  Day cloudy and damp; air mild,                               52-1/4
+
+2.  Day very clear, delightful sun,                                   54
+
+3.  Day cloudy and damp, air very mild,                               52-1/2
+
+4.  Day clear, very windy, but air very mild,                         56-3/4
+
+5.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, but air colder,              52-1/4
+
+6.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, air mild                     54-1/2
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+8.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+9.  Day cloudy, a little rain, air colder,                            52-1/4
+
+10.  Day very cloudy, a little rain, air mild,
+but damp, heavy, and unpleasant,                                      54-1/2
+
+11.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       54-1/2
+
+12.  Day clearer, but still heavy, and rather damp; air mild          54-1/2
+
+13.  Day damp, cloudy, great deal of rain wind, air cold,             50
+
+14.  Much the same,                                                   50
+
+15.  Fine clear day, sun very hot, air mild,                          56-3/4
+
+16.  Raw and damp, a little rain,                                     54-1/2
+
+17.  Delightful day, but good deal of wind; sun very powerful,        56-3/4
+
+18.  Delightful day, no wind, sun very powerful,                      61-1/4
+
+19.  Ditto    ditto, high wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+20.  Ditto    ditto, less wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+21.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       61-1/4
+
+22.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+23.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+24.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+25.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+26.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+27.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+Mar. 1.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                  61-1/2
+
+2.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64-1/2
+
+3.  Delightful day, sun very powerful,                                64
+
+4.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+5.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+6.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       50
+
+8.  Day damp and raw, rain in the evening,                            54-1/2
+
+9.  Fine day, but high wind,                                          60-1/4
+
+10.  Day damp and raw,                                                54-1/2
+
+11.  Day very cold, high wind, a little hail,                         52-1/4
+
+12.  Cold and raw, high wind, and a little rain,                      54-1/2
+
+
+=EDINBURGH.=
+
+Dec.                                                                _Ther_
+
+12.  Misty and damp--cleared up at mid-day,
+the thermometer rose to 54,                                           44
+
+13.  Fine clear day,                                                  45
+
+14.  Mild and damp,                                                   40
+
+15.  Showery and disagreeable,                                        45
+
+16.  Wind and rain,                                                   47
+
+17.  A great deal of rain and very stormy,                            44
+
+18.  Incessant rain--very windy at night,                             42
+
+19.  Heavy showers of rain and sleet,                                 39
+
+20.  A fine clear day,                                                32
+
+21.  A fine day,                                                      31
+
+22.  A fine day,                                                      37
+
+23.  A cold east wind,                                                32
+
+24.  A very cold N. E. wind,                                          35
+
+25.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+26.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+27.  Cold north wind--damp and dark,                                  34
+
+28.  Dark and damp,                                                   34
+
+29.  A good deal of snow,                                             33
+
+30.  Stormy and tempestuous,                                          45
+
+31.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+1815
+Jan. 1.  A fine day,                                                  35
+
+2.  Cloudy and damp,                                                  47
+
+3.  Cloudy,                                                           44
+
+4.  Very rainy,                                                       45
+
+5.  Mist and rain,                                                    38
+
+6.  A fine day,                                                       34
+
+7.  Damp, and a good deal of rain,                                    38
+
+8.  Clear frost--some snow,                                           30
+
+9.  Wind and rain,                                                    42
+
+10.  Snow in the forenoon--a perfect tempest of wind and
+rain at night,                                                        33
+
+11.  A great deal of snow during the night,                           32
+
+12.  A fine day,                                                      34
+
+13.  A fine day--snow melting,                                        37
+
+14.  A fine day,                                                      40
+
+15.  A fine day,                                                      30
+
+16.  A good deal of rain,                                             37
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+18.  Very gloomy,                                                     32
+
+19.  Hard frost in the night--very gloomy,                            32
+
+20.  A great deal of snow,                                            35
+
+21.  Snow,                                                            34
+
+22.  Clear fine day,                                                  31
+
+23.  Very hard frost in the night--fine day,                          25
+
+24.  Very cold,                                                       29
+
+25.  Good day, but very cold,                                         22
+
+26.  A great deal of snow,                                            32
+
+27.  Snow--a cold north wind,                                         34
+
+28.  Snow and hail,                                                   32
+
+29.  Rain and snow--very wet,                                         36
+
+30.  Very wet and disagreeable,                                       36
+
+31.  A fine mild day,                                                 35
+
+Feb. 1.  Very damp--heavy rain in the evening,                        38
+
+2.  Rain, and very thick mist,                                        40
+
+3.  A fine day,                                                       38
+
+4.  Damp and rainy,                                                   38
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       40
+
+6.  Damp and rainy,                                                   40
+
+7.  Very mild, but damp and cloudy,                                   45
+
+8.  A fine day; rain in the evening,                                  45
+
+9.  A very fine day; quite summer,                                    38
+
+10.  A fine day,                                                      32
+
+11.  A pretty good day; rather damp and cloudy,                       45
+
+12.  A fine forenoon, rain from two o'clock,                          45
+
+13.  A fine day,                                                      45
+
+14.  Cloudy and damp,                                                 45
+
+15.  Cloudy and some rain,                                            44
+
+16.  Damp and showery,                                                43
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      41
+
+18.  Cloudy, and a cold N. E. wind,                                   41
+
+19.  Damp and rainy, very windy in the evening,                       45
+
+20.  A cold north wind; showers of rain,                              42
+
+21.  Showery,                                                         45
+
+22.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                    50
+
+23.  Quite a summer day,                                              49
+
+24.  A good deal of rain in the morning,                              47
+
+25.  Rain; very tempestuous at night,                                 45
+
+26.  A cold north wind,                                               38
+
+27.  A pretty good day,                                               38
+
+28.  A charming summer day,                                           48
+
+Mar. 1  Rainy,                                                        48
+
+2.  A very fine day,                                                  38
+
+3.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                     45
+
+4.  A very fine day,                                                  42
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       45
+
+6.  A very fine day,                                                  43
+
+7.  A pretty good day, but a perfect tempest of wind
+and rain in the night,                                                43
+
+8.  A very good day,                                                  44
+
+9.  Showers of snow,                                                  36
+
+10.  A very cold north wind,                                          32
+
+11.  A very cold day,                                                 35
+
+12.  A very cold wind, and showers of snow,                           40
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+
+MICHAEL ANDERSON,
+
+PRINTER, EDINBURGH
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] This statement, which we had from an officer who was with him at the
+time, may be easily reconciled with the account of the battle given by
+La Baume, which is in some measure inconsistent in its own parts.
+
+[2] "See, Monsieur le Count,--said I, rising up, and laying some of King
+William's shillings on the table,--by jingling and rubbing one against
+another, for seventy years, in one body's pocket or another, they are
+become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling from
+another. The English, like ancient medals, keep more apart, and passing
+but few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine
+hand of nature has given them. They are not so pleasant to feel,--but,
+in return, the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see
+whose image and superscription they bear."
+
+_Sentimental Journey_, Vol. II. p. 87.
+
+[3] De l'Allemagne, tom. 2d. 303.
+
+[4] "We have no more war."
+
+[5] "Great silence."--"Ah! how terrible is this house! It is the house
+of God, and the gate of Heaven."
+
+[6] "Don't be alarmed, Sir; this is nothing."
+
+[7] "War! war!"
+
+[8] A small bit of wood.
+
+[9] "Adieu! to meet at supper."
+
+[10] "It is well enough for the moment, but this will not last long."
+
+[11] "He shewed at his sports, that spirit of tyranny which he has since
+manifested on the great stage of the world; and he who was doomed one
+day to make Europe tremble, commenced by being the master and terror of
+a troop of children."
+
+[12] Such are the emphatic expressions made use of by a French
+gentleman, who took the trouble to draw up for me a short memoir,
+containing what he considered the most correct and well authenticated
+circumstances in the political life of Napoleon.
+
+[13] "Sire," said a General to him, while congratulating him on the
+victory of Montmirail, "what a glorious day, if we did not see around us
+so many towns and countries destroyed." "So much the better," said
+Napoleon; "that supplies me with soldiers!"
+
+[14] "Well, in an hour the ladies of Rheims will be in a fine fright."
+
+[15] They seize him, they conduct him to the town-hall, before a
+military commission, which proceeds to his trial, or rather to his
+condemnation. An hour was scarce elapsed when an officer appears, orders
+the doors to be opened, and demands if sentence is pronounced. They tell
+him that the judges are about to put the question to the vote, "Let them
+instantly shoot him," said the officer; "this is the Emperor's order."
+The unfortunate Goualt is condemned.--The voice of mourning is heard
+throughout the whole city. The proprietor of the house which Bonaparte
+had chosen for his head-quarters solicits an audience; he obtains it.
+"Sire, (said M. Duchatel), a day of triumph ought to be a day of mercy;
+I come to entreat your Majesty to grant to the whole city of Troyes the
+pardon of one of her fellow-citizens, who has been condemned to death."
+"Begone! (said the tyrant, with a savage look), you forget that you are
+in my presence." It was 11 o'clock at night when the unfortunate man
+left the town-hall, escorted by gens-d'armes, and carrying, attached to
+his back and breast, a writing in large characters, in these words,
+"Traitor to his country," which was read by light of flambeaux. This
+heart-rending assembly advanced towards the market-place, appointed for
+the execution of criminals. There they wished to bind the eyes of the
+accused;--he refused, and said, with a firm voice, that he knew how to
+die for his King. He himself gave the signal to fire, and exclaiming,
+"Long live the King! Long live Louis XVIII!" he drew his last breath.
+
+[16] Revenge is their first law, lying the second, and to deny their God
+is the third.
+
+[17] "The distinguishing features of this man are, lying and the love of
+life; I go to attack him, I shall beat him, and I shall see him at my
+feet demanding his life."
+
+[18] "Promote this officer; for if you do not, he knows the way to
+promote himself."
+
+[19] "To dissipate the royalists, and to batter the Parisians even at
+their firesides."
+
+[20] "At break of day the Austrians commenced the attack, at first
+gently enough, afterwards more briskly, and at last with such fury, that
+the French were broken on all sides. At this frightful moment, when the
+dead and the dying strewed the earth, the first Consul, placed in the
+middle of his guard, appeared immoveable, insensible, and as if struck
+by thunder. In vain his Generals sent him their Aides de Camp, one after
+another, to demand assistance. In vain did the Aides de Camp wait his
+orders. He gave none. He scarcely exhibited signs of life. Many thought,
+that, believing the battle lost, he wished himself to be killed. Others,
+with more reason, persuaded themselves, that he had lost all power of
+thought, and that he neither heard nor saw what was said or what passed
+about him. General Berthier came to beg he would instantly withdraw;
+instead of answering him, he lay down on the ground. In the meantime,
+the French fled as fast as possible. The battle was lost, when suddenly
+we heard it said, that General Dessaix was coming up with fresh troops.
+Presently we saw him appear at their head. The runaways rallied behind
+his columns. Their courage returned--fortune changed. The French
+attacked in their turn, with the same fury with which, they had been
+attacked; they burned to efface the shame of their defeat in the
+morning."
+
+[21] "I die regretting that I have not lived long enough for my
+country."
+
+[22] We may lay it down as a maxim, that in every state the desire of
+glory exists with the liberty of the subjects, and diminishes with the
+same; glory is never the companion of servitude.
+
+[23] "The youth of the present day are brought up in very different
+principles: the love of glory, above all, has taken deep root; it has
+become the distinguishing attribute of the national character, exalted
+by twenty years of continued success. But this very glory was become our
+idol; it absorbed all the thoughts of the brave fellows whose wounds had
+rendered them unfit for service--all the hopes of the youthful warriors
+who for the first time bore arms; an unlooked-for blow has been struck,
+and we now find in our hearts a blank similar to that which a lover
+feels who has lost the object of his passion; every thing he sees, every
+thing he hears, renews his grief. This sentiment renders our situation
+vague and painful; every one seeks to hide from himself the void which
+he feels exist in his heart. He is looked upon as humbled, after twenty
+years of continued triumph, for having lost a single stake, which
+unfortunately was the stake of honour, and which had become the rule of
+our destinies."--CARONT'S MEMOIR.
+
+[24] "The French are the only people in the universe could laugh even
+while freezing."
+
+[25] "Well, there's more materials--more flesh for the cannon!"
+
+[26] "My faith, there's a fine consumption." The word _Consommation_, is
+also a mess, a finishing. It is not easy to say whether it was used in
+one or all of these senses by Napoleon.
+
+[27] "It was icy cold. The dying were yet breathing; the crowd of dead
+bodies, and the black gaps which the blood had made in the snow, were
+horribly contrasted. The staff were sensibly affected. The Emperor alone
+looked coolly on that scene of mourning and of blood. I pushed my horse
+a few paces before his, for I was anxious to observe him at such a
+moment. You would have said that he was devoid of every human feeling;
+that all that surrounded him existed but for him. He spoke coolly on the
+events of the evening before. In passing before a groupe of Russian
+grenadiers who had been massacred, the horse of one of the aides-de-camp
+started. The Emperor perceived it: "That horse (said he, coldly) is a
+coward."
+
+[28] "Workmen who had just left their workshops, peasants escaped from
+the villages, with bonnets on their heads, and a staff in their hands,
+in six months became intrepid soldiers, and in two years skilful
+officers and generals, formidable to the oldest generals in Europe."
+
+[29] "They cut down the crops of men three times a-year."
+
+[30] "It is only under a government as wise and as great as yours, that
+a simple soldier like me could have formed the project of carrying the
+war into Egypt.--Yes, Directors, scarcely shall I be master of Egypt,
+and of the solitudes of Palestine, than England will give you a first
+rate ship of the line for a sack of corn."
+
+[31] "If I present myself with troops (said Napoleon) it is only to
+please my friends, for in truth, I have the greatest desire of appearing
+there as of old; Louis XIV. appeared in the Parliament _in boots_, and a
+whip in his hand."
+
+[32] "I am one of those whom men kill, but whom they cannot dishonour;
+in three months we shall have peace--either the enemy shall be chased
+from our territory, or I shall be no more."
+
+[33] "I have called you around me to do good; you have done ill. You
+have among you persons devoted to England, who correspond with the
+Prince Regent, by means of the Advocate Deseze. Eleven-twelfths of you
+are good; the rest are factious. Return to your departments;--I shall
+have my eye on you. I am one whom men may kill, but whom they cannot
+dishonour. Who is he among you who could support the load of government.
+It has crushed the Constituent Assembly, which dictated laws to a weak
+king. The Fauxbourg St Antoine would have assisted me, but it would soon
+have abandoned you. What are become of the Jacobins, the Girondins, the
+Vergniaus, the Guadets, and so many others? They are dead. You have
+sought to _bespatter_ me in the eyes of France. This is a heinous
+crime;--besides, what is the throne? Four pieces of gilded wood covered
+with velvet. I had pointed out to you a Secret Committee; it is there
+that you should have established your griefs. It was in the family that
+our _dirty linen should have been washed_. I have a title; you have
+none. What are you in the Constitution? Nothing. You have no authority.
+The Throne is the Constitution. Every thing is in the throne, and in me.
+I repeat it to you, you have among you factious persons. Mr Lainè is a
+wicked man; the rest are factious. I know them, and I shall pursue them.
+I ask you, Was it while the enemy were among us that you ought to have
+done such things? Nature has endowed me with great courage, it can
+resist every thing. Much has it cost my pride, but I have sacrificed it.
+But I am above your miserable declamations. I had need of
+consolation,--and you have dishonoured me. But no; my victories crush
+your complaints. I am one of those who triumph or who die. Return to
+your departments.
+
+[34] "One of his Ministers one day addressed him, presenting him a
+report which he had desired. The subject was a conspiracy against his
+person. I was present at that scene; I expected, I confess, to see him
+enter in a fury, thunder forth against the traitors, threaten the
+magistrates, and accuse them of negligence. Not at all; he ran over the
+paper without the least sign of agitation. Judge of my surprise, or
+rather what sweet emotion I felt, when he pronounced these _touching and
+sublime_ words:--Count, the state has not suffered, the magistrates have
+not been insulted. It was only my person they aimed at; I pity them for
+not knowing that my every wish is for the good of France; but every man
+may go astray. Tell the ungrateful men that I pardon them." Now, I defy
+the most faithful royalist, who should have witnessed such an action,
+not to exclaim--If Heaven was to give an usurper to France, let us thank
+it for having given this one! But stop, unfortunate one: your eyes have
+indeed seen, your ears have heard; believe nothing, but be present at
+the levee of this hero, so magnanimous, so little desirous of revenging
+himself. The doors are opened--Behold him! The crowd of courtiers
+surround him--all fix their eyes on him--his face is changed--the
+muscles are violently contracted--his whole appearance is that of a
+ruffian; a death-like silence reigns in the assembly--the Prince has not
+yet spoken, but he surveys the group: He perceives the same officer,
+who, two days before, had presented him the report. "Count (said he),
+are these vile conspirators executed? Are their accomplices in chains?
+Have the executioners given a new example to the imitators of those who
+aim at my life?"
+
+[35] "You wish to see us drawn on hurdles to the scaffold."
+
+[36] These nutshells.
+
+[37] Swords of honour--guns of honour.
+
+[38] Saucepan of honour.
+
+[39] "Moreau was conversing with the Emperor Alexander, from whom he was
+only distant half a horse's length. It is likely, that they perceived
+from the place this brilliant staff, and fired on it at random. Moreau
+alone was struck; a cannon-ball broke his right knee, and passing
+through the horse's side, carried off the flesh of his left leg. The
+generous Alexander shed tears. Colonel Rapatel rushed towards Moreau,
+who uttered a long sigh, and then fainted. Returned to himself, he spoke
+with the utmost coolness. He said to Monsieur Rapatel, "I am lost, my
+friend, but it is so glorious to die for such a cause, and under the
+eyes of so great a Prince!" A few minutes afterwards, he said to the
+Emperor Alexander himself, "Nothing remains, Sire, save the trunk; but
+the heart is there, and the head is your's." He must have suffered the
+most excruciating pain; but he called for a segar, and quietly began
+smoking. Mr Wylie, first surgeon to the Emperor, hastened to amputate
+the limb, which was most severely used. During this cruel operation,
+Moreau scarce shewed a change of countenance, and did not cease to smoke
+his segar. The amputation performed, Mr Wylie examined the right leg,
+and found it in such a state, that he could not refrain from expressing
+his terror. "I understand you," said Moreau, "you must cut off this one
+too.--Well, do it quickly.--However, I would rather have died." He
+wanted to write to his wife; and he wrote to her, with a steady hand,
+these words:--"MY DEAR FRIEND,--The battle was decided three days
+ago.--I have had both legs carried off by a bullet--that rascal
+Bonaparte is always lucky. They have performed the amputation as well as
+possible. The army has made a retrograde movement, but it is not
+occasioned by any reverse, but from a manœuvre, and in order to approach
+General Blucher.--Excuse my scribbling.--I love you, and I embrace you
+with all my heart. I have charged Rapatel to finish."--Immediately after
+this, he said, "I am not without danger, I know it well; but if I die,
+if a premature fate hurry me from a beloved wife and child--from my
+country, which I have wished to serve in spite of itself; do not forget
+to say to the French, who shall speak of me, that I die with the regret
+of not having accomplished my projects--To free my country from the
+frightful yoke that oppresses her;--to crush Bonaparte-every species of
+war, every possible means, were laudable. With what joy would I have
+consecrated the little talent I posses to the cause of humanity. My
+heart belonged to France."
+
+At seven o'clock, the sick man finding himself alone with Mr Svinine,
+said to him, with a faint voice, "I must absolutely dictate a letter to
+you."--Mr Svinine took up the pen, and sighing, traced the few following
+lines, dictated by Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--I sink into the tomb with the same sentiments of respect,
+admiration, and devotion with which your Majesty has always inspired me,
+since I have had the happiness of approaching your person."
+
+"In pronouncing these last words, the sick man stopped short and shut
+his eyes. Mr Svinine waited, thinking that Moreau was deliberating on
+the sequel of the letter--Vain hope--Moreau was no move."
+
+[40] "Well, my good woman;--You expect the Emperor, don't you?" 'Yes,
+Sir; I hope we shall have a sight of him.' "Well, my good woman, what do
+you folks say of the Emperor?" 'That he is a great villain.' "Eh, my
+good woman; and what do you yourself say?" 'Shall I tell you frankly,
+Sir, what I think?--If I were the captain of the ship, I would only take
+him on board to drown him.'
+
+[41] "The Commissaries, on arriving at Calade, found him with his head
+leaning on his two hands, and his face bathed in tears. He told them
+that people decidedly aimed at his life; and that the mistress of the
+inn, who had not known him, had told him that the Emperor was detested
+as a rascal, and that they would only embark him to drown him. He would
+eat or drink nothing, however pressed to it; and though he might have
+been assured by the example of those who were at table with him, he made
+them bring him some bread and water from his carriage, which he ate with
+avidity. They waited for night to continue the journey; they were only
+two leagues from Aix. The populace of that town would not have been so
+easily constrained, as in the other towns, where he had already run such
+risks. The Sub-Prefect, taking with him the Lieutenant and six of the
+gens-d'armes, rode towards Calade. The night was dark, and the weather
+very cold; which double circumstance protected Napoleon much better than
+would have been effected by the strongest escort. The Sub-Prefect and
+the guards met his suite a few instants after they had quitted Calade,
+and followed him till he arrived at the gates of Aix, at two in the
+morning. After having changed horses, Bonaparte continuing his route,
+passed under the walls of the town, and the reiterated cries of "Long
+live the King," which were shouted forth by the inhabitants assembled on
+the ramparts. Arrived at the limits of the Department, at an inn called
+the Great Pagere, he stopped there for breakfast. General Bertrand
+proposed to the Sub-Prefect to ascend to the room of the Commissaries,
+where all were at breakfast before his departure. Here were ten or
+twelve persons. Napoleon was of the number; he had the dress of an
+Austrian officer, and a helmet on his head. Seeing the Sub-Prefect in
+his councillor's habit, he said to him, "You would not have known me in
+this dress; it is these gentlemen who have made me take it, thinking it
+necessary to ensure my safety. I could have had an escort of 3000 men,
+which I refused, preferring to trust myself to French honour. I have not
+had reason to complain of that confidence from Fontainbleau to Avignon;
+but between that town and this, I have been insulted, and have been in
+great danger. The Provençals degrade themselves. Since I have been in
+France, I have not had a good regiment of Provençals under my orders.
+They are good for nothing but to make a noise. The Gascons are boasters,
+but at least they are brave."--At these words, one of the party, who no
+doubt was a Gascon, pulled out his shirt ruffle, and said, "that's
+pleasant." Bonaparte continuing to address himself to the Sub-Prefect,
+said to him, "What is the Prefect about?"--'He left this at the first
+news of the change which had happened at Paris.' "And his wife?" 'She
+had left it before.' "She then took the start. Do the people pay the
+revenue and the droits reunis?"--'Not a halfpenny.'--"Are there many
+English at Marseilles?" Here the Sub-Prefect related all that had lately
+passed in that port, and with what transports they had received the
+English. Bonaparte, who did not take much pleasure in such a recital,
+put an end to it, by saying to the Sub-Prefect, "Tell your Provençals
+that the Emperor is very ill pleased with them."
+
+"Arrived at Bouilledon, he shut himself up in an apartment, with his
+sister (Pauline Borghese)--Sentinels were placed at the door.
+Notwithstanding which, some ladies arriving at the gallery, which
+communicated with that room, beheld there an officer in Austrian
+uniform, who said to them, "Ladies, what do you wish to see?" 'We wish
+to see Napoleon.' "But that's myself." The ladies, looking at him, said,
+smiling, 'You are joking, Sir; you are not Napoleon.' "I assure you,
+ladies, it is I.--What!--You thought Napoleon must have a more wicked
+appearance. Don't they say that I am a wretch, a rascal?"--The ladies
+did not care to undeceive him. Bonaparte, not wishing to press them hard
+on this subject, turned the conversation.--But always occupied with his
+first idea, he returned to it immediately.--"Acknowledge, at least,
+ladies, that now, when fortune is against me, they say that I am a
+wretch, a miscreant, and a marauder. But do you know the meaning of all
+this? I wished to make France superior to England, and I have failed in
+this project."
+
+[42] "When we are on the paved streets of Paris, we perceive that the
+people do not there make the laws;--no convenience for pedestrians--no
+side pavement; the people seem to be a body separated from the other
+orders of the state--the rich and the great who possess equipages, have
+the right of crushing and mutilating them in the streets--a hundred
+victims expire every year under the wheels of the carriages."
+
+[43] "Before the revolution, the village contained four thousand
+inhabitants. It furnished, as its share to the general service of the
+church, and of the hospitals, as well as for the instruction of youth,
+five ecclesiastics, two sisters of charity, and three schoolmasters.
+These last are replaced by a riding-master, a drawing-master, and two
+music-masters. Out of eight manufactories of woollen and cotton stuffs,
+there remains but one. But in revenge, there are established two
+coffee-houses, one tobacco-shop, one restaurateur's shop, and one
+billiard-room, which flourish in a manner quite surprising. We reckoned
+formerly forty ploughmen. Twenty-five of these have become couriers,
+riders, and coachmen. Their place is filled up by women, who conduct the
+plough, and who, to amuse themselves, carry occasionally to the market,
+carts full of straw or of charcoal. The number of carpenters, masons,
+and other artisans, is diminished by about a half. But the price of all
+articles of workmanship having risen also one half; _it comes to the
+same thing, and a compensation is established_. One class of
+individuals, which the villages furnishes in great abundance, and in
+much too great a proportion, are livery servants and domestics of
+luxury. Whilst this lasts, the country will be depopulated of all those
+useful ranks who cultivate the soil, and the towns will be peopled with
+the idle and corrupt. Many women and young girls, who were only
+sempstresses and under servants, have found advancement in the great
+cities, and in the capital. They have become waiting maids,
+embroiderers, and milliners. One might say that luxury had exhausted our
+youth; all eyes are turned towards it, and it alone occupies every
+thought. Never, at any former period, did the contingent in lawyers,
+bailiffs, law students, physicians, and artists, exceed three or four;
+it is now raised to sixty-two: and what we should never have conceived
+in former days, there are now among us as many painters, poets,
+comedians, opera dancers, and travelling musicians, as a city of eighty
+thousand souls would have furnished thirty or forty years ago."
+
+[44] The variety of the laws and customs is attended with this effect,
+that the most intelligent advocate becomes as ignoramus when he finds
+himself in Gascony or in Normandy. He loses at Vernon a case which he
+had gained at Poissy. Select the most skilful for a consultation or for
+pleading; well, he will be under the necessity of having his advocate
+and his attorney, if we commit to his care a cause in most of the other
+courts.
+
+[45] "I can excuse, but do not envy those who can live as if they had
+neither suffered nor seen others suffer; but they must pardon me, who am
+unable to imitate them. These days of total and unheard-of degradation
+in human nature are yet before my eyes, press heavily on my soul, and
+fall incessantly from my pen, destined to retrace them even to my last
+hour."
+
+[46] The reader will easily perceive, that the end of this chapter was
+written at the time of Napoleon's landing from Elba. Not a word of it
+has been altered, for the author is convinced that it is an accurate
+picture of France in its present state.
+
+[47] "A Frenchman, (says Madame de Stael, with great truth,) can still
+continue to speak, even when he has no ideas."
+
+[48] "Their trifling, naturally intended for the toilet, seems to have
+become accessary to the formation of the general character of the
+nation: They trifle in council, they trifle at the head of an army, they
+trifle with an ambassador."
+
+[49] "Gentlemen, it is impossible to deceive persons enlightened as you
+are; I am absolutely going to cut off the head of this child: But before
+commencing, I must let you see that I am no quack. Well, in the
+meantime, as an exordium, Who is there among you who has the toothache?"
+"I," exclaimed instantly a sturdy peasant, &c.
+
+[50] "Gentlemen, in the universe there is but one sun; in the kingdom of
+France there is but one king; in the science of medicine there is
+Charini alone."
+
+[51] "You are a Scotchman?" 'Yes, Sir.' "Oh, how droll that is." 'And
+how is it droll, Sir?' "It is the country of Napoleon. It is an island,
+is it not?" 'Certainly not, Sir.' "On my faith, I thought they always
+called it the Island of Corse."
+
+[52] "Give a supper; that will make every body run."
+
+[53] "Even if Old Nick should ring his supper-bell, The French would
+lick their lips, and flock to H--II."
+
+[54] "Down with the tyrant! Down with the soldiers! Long live the
+Emperor! Long live the Marshals! Long live the army! Long live Louis,
+the wished-for Monarch! Long live the descendant of Good Henry IV.! Long
+live the nation! No feudal laws! No Kings! No nobility! No assessed
+taxes! No conscription."
+
+[55] "Long life to death!"
+
+[56] "Who, after having sacrificed millions of victims, could not die
+like a soldier."
+
+
+ERRATA. [Transcriber's note: already corrected.]
+
+Page 20. line    3. for _a_ read _est_.
+     21.        18. after _sont_ insert _de_.
+     97.         6. for _les_ read _des_.
+    156. last line, for _c'est_ read _ce m'est_.
+    272. line   20. for _des_ read _de_.
+    273.        17. for _des_ read _de_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years
+1814-1815, by Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years 1814-1815, by 
+Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Travels in France during the years 1814-1815
+       Comprising a residence at Paris, during the stay of the
+              allied armies, and at Aix, at the period of the landing
+              of Bonaparte, in two volumes.
+
+Author: Archibald Alison
+        Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+Release Date: December 4, 2008 [EBook #27410]
+[Most recently updated: February 26, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN FRANCE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net
+(Produced from images of the Bibliothèque nationale de
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+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>TRAVELS IN FRANCE,</h1>
+
+<div class="bold">
+<p class="c">DURING THE YEARS</p>
+
+<p class="c">1814-15.</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">comprising a</p>
+
+<p class="c">RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">and</p>
+
+<p class="c">AT AIX,</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">BONAPARTE.</p>
+<p  class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="c">IN TWO VOLUMES.</p>
+
+<p class="c">SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.</p>
+
+<p class="c">EDINBURGH:</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">printed for macredie, skelly, and muckersy, 52. prince's street;<br />
+longman, hurst. rees, orme, and brown; black,<br />
+parry, and co. t. underwood, london;<br />
+and j. cumming, dublin.</p>
+<p  class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+<p class="c">1816.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="box">
+<p class="c">Transcriber's note: The original spellings have been maintained; the
+French spelling and accentuation have not been corrected, but left as they appear in the
+original.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<h3>ADVERTISEMENT.</h3>
+
+<hr class="ten"/>
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">A</span> <span class="smcap">Second Edition</span> of the following Work having been demanded by the
+Booksellers, the Author has availed himself of the opportunity to
+correct many verbal inaccuracies, to add some general reflections, and
+to alter materially those parts of it which were most hastily prepared
+for the press, particularly the Journal in the Second Volume, by
+retrenching a number of particulars of partial interest, and
+substituting more general observations on the state of the country,
+supplied by his own recollection and that of his fellow-travellers.</p>
+
+<p class="sp"><span class="smcap">He</span> has only farther to repeat here, what he stated in the Advertisement
+to the first Edition, that the whole materials of the Publication were
+collected in France, partly by himself, during a residence which the
+state of his health had made adviseable in Provence, and partly by some
+friends who had preceded him in their visit to France, and were at Paris
+during the time when it was first occupied by the Allied Armies;&mdash;and
+that he has submitted it to the world, merely in the hope of adding
+somewhat to the general stock of information regarding the situation,
+character, and prospects of the French people, which it is so desirable
+that the English Public should possess.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>CONTENTS.</h3>
+
+<table summary="toc1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"
+style="font-weight:800;">
+<tr><td class="vol" colspan="2">VOL. I.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td><td>Journey to Paris</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;The Allied Armies
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;Its Public Buildings
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td>Environs of Paris
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;The Louvre
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;The French Character and Manners
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;The Theatres
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td>Paris&mdash;The French Army and Imperial Government
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td>Journey to Flanders
+</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="vol" colspan="2">VOL. II.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_a_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td><td>Journey to Aix
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_a_II">II.</a></td><td>Residence at Aix, and Journey to Bourdeaux
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_a_III">III.</a></td><td>State of France under Napoleon&mdash;Anecdotes of him
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_a_IV">IV.</a></td><td>State of France under Napoleon&mdash;continued
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right"><a href="#CHAPTER_a_V">V.</a></td><td>State of Society and Manners in France
+</td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#REGISTER">Register of the Weather</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="top15" />
+<h2>VOLUME FIRST.</h2>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">JOURNEY TO PARIS.</p>
+
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">W</span><span class="smcap">e</span> passed through Kent in our way to France, on Sunday the first of May
+1814. This day's journey was very delightful. The whole scenery around
+us,&mdash;the richness of the fields and woods, then beginning to assume the
+first colours of spring; the extent and excellence of the cultivation;
+the thriving condition of the towns, and the smiling aspect of the neat
+and clean villages through which we passed; the luxuriant bloom of the
+fruit-trees surrounding them; the number of beautiful villas adapted to
+the accommodation of the middle ranks of society, the crowds of
+well-dressed peasantry going to and returning from church; the frank
+and cheerful countenances of the men, and beauty of the women&mdash;all
+presented a most pleasing spectacle. If we had not proposed to cross the
+channel, we should have compared all that we now saw with our
+recollections of Scotland; and the feeling of the difference, although
+it might have increased our admiration, would perhaps have made us less
+willing to acknowledge it. But when we were surveying England with a
+view to a comparison with France, the difference of its individual
+provinces was overlooked;&mdash;we took a pride in the apparent happiness and
+comfort of a people, of whom we knew nothing more, than that they were
+our countrymen; and we rejoiced, that the last impression left on our
+minds by the sight of our own country, was one which we already
+anticipated that no other could efface.</p>
+
+<p>Our passage to Calais was rendered very interesting, by the number of
+Frenchmen who accompanied us. Some of these were emigrants, who had
+spent the best part of their lives in exile; the greater part were
+prisoners of various ranks, who had been taken at different periods of
+the war. There was evidently the greatest diversity of character, of
+prospects, of previous habits, and of political and moral sentiments
+among these men; the only bond that connected them was, the love of
+their common country; and at a moment for which they had been so long
+and anxiously looking, this was sufficient to repress all jealousy and
+discord, and to unite them cordially and sincerely in the sentiment
+which was expressed, with true French enthusiasm, by one of the party,
+as we left the harbour of Dover,&mdash;"Voila notre chere France,&mdash;A present
+nous sommes tous amis!"</p>
+
+<p>As we proceeded, the expression of their emotions, in words, looks, and
+gestures, was sometimes extremely pleasing, at other times irresistibly
+ludicrous, but always characteristic of a people whose natural feelings
+are quick and lively, and who have no idea of there being any dignity or
+manliness in repressing, or concealing them. When the boat approached
+the French shore, a fine young officer, who had been one of the most
+amusing of our companions, leapt from the prow, and taking up a handful
+of sand, kissed it with an expression of ardent feeling and enthusiastic
+joy, which it was delightful to observe.</p>
+
+<p>It is only on occasions of this kind, that the whole strength of the
+feeling of patriotism is made known. In the ordinary routine of civil
+life, this feeling is seldom awakened. In the moments of national
+enthusiasm and exultation, it is often mingled with others. But in
+witnessing the emotions of the French exiles and captives, on returning
+to their wasted and dishonoured country, we discerned the full force of
+those moral ties, by which, even in the most afflicting circumstances of
+national humiliation and disaster, the hearts of men are bound to the
+land of their fathers.</p>
+
+<p>We landed, on the evening of the 2d, about three miles from Calais, and
+walked into the town. The appearance of the country about Calais does
+not differ materially from that in the immediate neighbourhood of Dover,
+which is much less fertile than the greater part of Kent; but the
+cottages are decidedly inferior to the English. The first peculiarity
+that struck us was the grotesque appearance of the <i>Douaniers</i>, who came
+to examine us on the coast; and when we had passed through the numerous
+guards, and been examined at the guard-houses, previously to our
+admission into the town, the gates of which had been shut, we had
+already observed, what subsequent observation confirmed, that the air
+and manner which we call military are in very little estimation among
+the French soldiers. The general appearance of the French soldiery
+cannot be better described than it has been by Mr Scott: "They seemed
+rather the fragments of broken-up gangs, than the remains of a force
+that had been steady, controlled, and lawful." They have almost
+uniformly, officers and men, much expression of intelligence, and often
+of ferocity, in their countenances, and much activity in their
+movements; but there are few of them whom an Englishman, judging from
+his recollection of English soldiers, would recognise to belong to a
+regular army.</p>
+
+<p>The lower orders of inhabitants in Calais hailed the arrival of the
+English strangers with much pleasure, loudly proclaiming, however, the
+interested motives of their joy. A number of blackguard-looking men
+gathered round us, recommending their own services, and different
+hotels, with much vehemence, and violent altercations among themselves;
+and troops of children followed, crying, "Vivent les Anglois&mdash;Give me
+one sous." In our subsequent travels, we were often much amused by the
+importunities of the children, who seem to beg, in many places, without
+being in want, and are very ingenious in recommending themselves to
+travellers; crying first, Vive le Roi; if that does not succeed, Vive
+l'Empereur; that failing, Vive le Roi d'Angleterre; and professing
+loyalty to all the sovereigns of Europe, rather than give up the hopes
+of a <i>sous</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Having reached the principal inn, we found that all the places in the
+diligence for Paris were taken for the ten following days. By this time,
+in consequence of the communication with France being opened, several
+new coaches had been established between London and Dover, but no such
+measure had been thought of on the road between Calais and Paris. There
+was no want of horses, as we afterwards found, belonging to the inns on
+the roads, but this seemed to indicate strongly want of ready money
+among the innkeepers. However, there were at Calais a number of
+"voitures" of different kinds, which had been little used for several
+years; one of which we hired from a "magasin des chaises," which
+reminded us of the Sentimental Journey, and set out at noon on the 3d,
+for Paris, accompanied by a French officer who had been a prisoner in
+Scotland, and to whose kindness and attentions we were much indebted.</p>
+
+<p>We were much struck with the appearance of poverty and antiquity about
+Calais, which afforded a perfect contrast to the Kentish towns; and all
+the country towns, through which we afterwards passed in France,
+presented the same general character. The houses were larger than those
+of most English country towns, but they were all old; in few places out
+of repair, but nowhere newly built, or even newly embellished. There
+were no newly painted houses, windows, carriages, carts, or even
+sign-posts; the furniture, and all the interior arrangements of the
+inns, were much inferior to those we had left; their external appearance
+stately and old-fashioned; the horses in the carriages were caparisoned
+with white leather, and harnessed with ropes; the men who harnessed them
+were of mean appearance, and went about their work as if they had many
+other kinds of work to do. There were few carts, and hardly any
+four-wheeled carriages to be seen in the streets; and it was obvious
+that the internal communications of this part of the country were very
+limited. There appeared to be few houses fitted for the residence of
+persons of moderate incomes, and hardly any villas about the town to
+which they might retire after giving up business. All the lower ranks of
+people, besides being much worse looking than the English, were much
+more coarsely clothed, and they seemed utterly indifferent about the
+appearance of their dress. Very few of the men wore beaver hats, and
+hardly two had exactly the same kind of covering for their heads.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of the women of better condition, particularly their
+high-crowned bonnets, and the ruffs about their necks, put us in mind of
+the pictures of old English fashions. The lower people appeared to bear
+a much stronger resemblance to some of the Highland clans, and to the
+Welch, than to any other inhabitants of Britain.</p>
+
+<p>On the road between Calais and Boulogne, we began to perceive the
+peculiarities of the husbandry of this part of France. These are just
+what were described by Arthur Young; and although it is possible, as the
+natives uniformly affirm, that the agriculture has improved since the
+revolution, this improvement must be in the details of the operations,
+and in the extent of land under tillage, not in the principles of the
+art. The most striking to the eye of a stranger are the want of
+enclosures, the want of pasture lands and of green crops, and the
+consequent number of bare fallows, on many of which a few sheep and
+long-legged lean hogs are turned out to pick up a miserable subsistence.
+The common rotation appears to be a three year's one; fallow, wheat, and
+oats or barley. On this part of the road, the ground is almost all under
+tillage, but the soil is poor; there is very little wood, and the
+general appearance of the country is therefore very bleak. In the
+immediate neighbourhood of Boulogne, it is better clothed, and varied
+by some pasture fields and gardens. The ploughs go with wheels. They are
+drawn by only two horses, but are clumsily made, and evidently inferior
+to the Scotch ploughs. They, as well as the carts, are made generally of
+green unpeeled wood, like those in the Scotch Highlands, and are never
+painted. This absence of all attempt to give an air of neatness or
+smartness to any part of their property&mdash;this indifference as to its
+appearance, is a striking characteristic of the French people over a
+great part of the country.</p>
+
+<p>It is likewise seen, as before observed, in the dress of the lower
+orders; but here it is often combined with a fantastic and ludicrous
+display of finery. An English dairy-maid or chamber-maid, ploughman or
+groom, shopkeeper or mechanic, has each a dress consistent in its parts,
+and adapted to the situation and employment of the wearer. But a country
+girl in France, whose bed-gown and petticoat are of the coarsest
+materials, and scantiest dimensions, has a pair of long dangling
+ear-rings, worth from 30 to 40 francs. A carter wears an opera hat, and
+a ballad-singer struts about in long military boots; and a blacksmith,
+whose features are obscured by the smoke and dirt which have been
+gathering on them for weeks, and whose clothes hang about him in
+tatters, has his hair newly frizzled and powdered, and his long queue
+plaited on each side, all down his back, with the most scrupulous
+nicety.</p>
+
+<p>Akin to this shew of finery in some parts of their dress, utterly
+inconsistent with the other parts of it, and with their general
+condition, is the disposition of the lower orders in France, even in
+their intercourse with one another, to ape the manners of their
+superiors. "An English peasant," as Mr Scott has well remarked, "appears
+to spurn courtesy from him, in a bitter sense of its inapplicability to
+his condition." This feeling is unknown in France. A French soldier
+hands his "bien aimée" into a restaurateur's of the lowest order and
+supplies her with fruits and wine, with the grace and foppery of a
+Parisian "petit maitre," and with the gravity of a
+"philosophe."&mdash;"Madame," says a scavenger in the streets of Paris,
+laying his hand on his heart, and making a low bow to an old woman
+cleaning shoes at the door of an inn, "J'espere que vous vous portez
+bien."&mdash;"Monsieur," she replies, dropping a curtsey with an air of
+gratitude and profound respect, "Vous me faites d'honneur; je me porte a
+merveille."</p>
+
+<p>This peculiarity of manner in the lower orders, will generally, it is
+believed, be found connected with their real degradation and
+insignificance in the eyes of their superiors. It is precisely because
+they are not accustomed to look with respect to those of their own
+condition, and because their condition is not respected by others, that
+they imitate the higher ranks. An English coachman or stable-boy is
+taught to believe, that a certain demeanour befits his situation; and he
+will certainly expose himself to more sneers and animadversions, by
+assuming the manners of the rank next above him in society, than the
+highest peer of the realm will by assuming his. But Frenchmen of the
+same rank are fain to seek that respectability from manner, which is
+denied to the lowness of their condition, and the vulgarity of their
+occupation; and they therefore assume the manner which is associated in
+their minds, and in the minds of their observers, with situations
+acknowledged to be respectable.</p>
+
+<p>It is also to be observed, that the power of ridicule, which has so much
+influence in the formation of manner, is much less in France than in
+England. The French have probably more relish for true wit than any
+other people; but their perception of humour is certainly not nearly so
+strong as that of our countrymen. Their ridicule is seldom excited by
+the awkward attempts of a stranger to speak their language, and as
+seldom by the inconsistencies which appear to us ludicrous in the dress
+and behaviour of their countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>These causes, operating gradually for a length of time, have probably
+produced that remarkable politeness of manners which is so pleasing to a
+stranger, in a number of the lower orders in France, and which appears
+so singular at the present time, as revolutionary ideas, military
+habits, and the example of a military court, have given a degree of
+roughness, and even ferocity, to the manners of many of the higher
+orders of Frenchmen, with which it forms a curious contrast. It is,
+however, in its relation to Englishmen at least, a fawning, cringing,
+interested politeness; less truly respectable than the obliging civility
+of the common people in England, and in substance, if not in appearance,
+still farther removed from the frank, independent, disinterested
+courtesy of the Scottish Highlanders.</p>
+
+
+<p class="sp">Our entry into Boulogne was connected with several striking
+circumstances. To an Englishman, who, for many years, had heard of the
+mighty preparations which were made by the French in the port of
+Boulogne for the invasion of this country, the first view of this town
+could not but be peculiarly interesting. We accordingly got out of our
+<i>voiture</i> as quickly as possible, and walked straight to the harbour.
+Here the first objects that presented themselves were, on one side, the
+last remains of the grand flotilla, consisting of a few hulks,
+dismantled and rotting in the harbour; on the other side, the Prussian
+soldiers drawn up in regiments on the beach. Nothing could have recalled
+to our minds more strongly the strength of that power which our country
+had so long opposed, nor the magnificent result which had at length
+attended her exertions. The forces destined for the invasion, and which
+were denominated by anticipation the army of England, had been encamped
+around the town. The characteristic arrogance&mdash;the undoubting
+anticipation of victory&mdash;the utter thoughtlessness&mdash;the unsinking
+vivacity of the French soldiery, were then at the highest pitch. Some
+little idea of the gay and light-hearted sentiments with which they
+contemplated the invasion of England, may be formed from the following
+song, which was sung to us with unrivalled spirit and gesticulation, as
+we came in sight of Boulogne, by our fellow-traveller, who had himself
+served in the army of England, and who informed us it was then commonly
+sung in the ranks.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">SONG.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Français! le bal va se r'ouvrir,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et vous aimez la danse,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">L'Allemande vient de finir,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Mais l'Anglaise commence.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">D'y figurer tous nous Français</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Seront parbleu bien aises,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Car s'ils n'aiment pas les Anglais,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ils aiment les Anglaises.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">D'abord par le pas de Calais</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Il faut entrer en danse,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Le son des instrumens Français</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Marquera la cadence;</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et comme les Anglais ne scanroient</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Que danser les Anglaises,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Bonaparte leur montrera</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Les figures Françaises.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Allons mes amis de grand rond,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">En avant, face a face,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Français le bas, restez d'a plomb,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Anglais changez les places.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Vous Monsieur Pitt vous balancez,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Formez la chaine Anglaise,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pas de cotè&mdash;croisez&mdash;chassez&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">C'est la danse Française!</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The humour of this song depends on the happy application of the names of
+the French dances, and the terms employed in them, to the subjects on
+which it is written, the conclusion of the German campaigns, and the
+meditated invasion of England.</p>
+
+<p>The Prussians who were quartered at Boulogne, and all the adjoining
+towns and villages, belonged to the corps of General Von York. Most of
+the infantry regiments were composed in part of young recruits, but the
+old soldiers, and all the cavalry, had a truly military appearance; and
+their swarthy weather-beaten countenances, their coarse and patched, but
+strong and serviceable dresses and accoutrements, the faded embroidery
+of their uniforms, and the insignia of orders of merit with which almost
+all the officers, and many of the men, were decorated, bore ample
+testimony to their participation in the labours and the honours of the
+celebrated army of Silesia.</p>
+
+<p>Some of them who spoke French, when we enquired where they had been,
+told us, in a tone of exultation, rather than of arrogance, that they
+had entered Paris&mdash;"le sabre a la main."</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of the country is considerably better in Picardy than in
+Artois, but the general features do not materially vary until you reach
+the Oise. The peasantry seem to live chiefly in villages, through which
+the road passes, and the cottages composing which resemble those of
+Scotland more than of England. They are generally built in rows; many of
+them are white-washed, but they are very dirty, and have generally no
+gardens attached to them; and a great number of the inhabitants seem
+oppressed with poverty to a degree unknown in any part of Britain. The
+old and infirm men and women who assembled round our carriage, when it
+stopped in any of these villages, to ask for alms, appeared in the most
+abject condition; and so far from observing, as one English traveller
+has done, that there are few beggars in France, it appeared to us that
+there are few inhabitants of many of these country villages who are
+ashamed to beg.</p>
+
+<p>To this unfavourable account of the aspect of this part of France, there
+are, however, exceptions: We were struck with the beauty of the village
+of Nouvion, between Montreuil and Abbeville, which resembles strongly
+the villages in the finest counties of England: The houses here have all
+gardens surrounding them, which are the property of the villagers. In
+the neighbourhood of Abbeville, and of Beauvais, there are also some
+neat villages; and the country around these towns is rich, and well
+cultivated, and beautifully diversified with woods and vineyards; and,
+in general, in advancing southwards, the country, though still
+uninclosed, appears more fertile and better clothed. Many of the
+villages are surrounded with orchards, and long rows of fruit-trees
+extend from some of them for miles together along the sides of the
+roads; long regular rows of elms and Lombardy poplars are also very
+common, particularly on the road sides; and, in some places, chateaux
+are to be seen, the situation of which is generally delightful; but most
+of them are uninhabited, or inhabited by poor people, who do not keep
+them in repair; and their deserted appearance contributes even more than
+the straight avenues of trees, and gardens laid out in the Dutch taste,
+which surround them, to confirm the impression of <i>antiquity</i> which is
+made on the mind of an Englishman, by almost all that he sees in
+travelling through France.</p>
+
+<p>The roads in this, as in many other parts of the country, are paved in
+the middle, straight, and very broad, and appear adapted to a much more
+extensive intercourse than now exists between the different provinces.</p>
+
+<p>The country on the banks of the Oise, (which we crossed at Beaumont),
+and from thence to Paris, is one of the finest parts of France. The
+road passes, almost the whole way, through a majestic avenue of elm
+trees: Instead of the continual recurrence of corn fields and fallows,
+the eye is here occasionally relieved by the intervention of fields of
+lucerne and saintfoin, orchards and vineyards; the country is rich, well
+clothed with wood, and varied with rising grounds, and studded with
+chateaux; there are more carriages on the roads and bustle in the inns,
+and your approach to the capital is very obvious. Yet there are strong
+marks of poverty in the villages, which contain no houses adapted to the
+accommodation of the middling ranks of society; the soil is richer, but
+the implements of agriculture, and the system of husbandry, are very
+little better than in Picardy: the cultivation, every where tolerable,
+is nowhere excellent; there are no new farm-houses or farm-steadings; no
+signs of recent agricultural improvements; and the chateaux, in general,
+still bear the aspect of desertion and decay.</p>
+
+<p>This last peculiarity of French scenery is chiefly owing to the great
+subdivision of property which has taken place in consequence of the
+confiscation of church lands, and properties of the noblesse and
+emigrants, and of the subsequent sale of the national domains, at very
+low or even nominal prices, to the lower orders of the peasantry. To
+such a degree has this subdivision extended, that in many parts of
+France there is no proprietor of land who does not labour with his own
+hands in the cultivation of his property. The influence of this state of
+property on the prosperity of France, and the gradual changes which it
+will undergo in the course of time, will form an interesting study for
+the political economist; but in the mean time, it will almost prevent
+the possibility of collecting an adequate number of independent and
+enlightened men to represent the landed interest of France in any system
+of national representation.</p>
+
+<p>In travelling from Calais to Paris, we did not observe so great a want
+of men in the fields and villages as we had been led to expect. The men
+whom we saw, however, were almost all above the age of the conscription.
+In several places we saw women holding the plough; but in general, the
+proportion of women to men employed in the fields, appeared hardly
+greater than may be seen during most of the operations of husbandry in
+the best cultivated districts of Scotland. On inquiry among the
+peasants, we found the conscription, and the whole of Bonaparte's system
+of government, held in much abhorrence, particularly among the women;
+yet they did not appear to feel it so deeply as we had anticipated; and
+of him, individually, they were more disposed to speak in terms of
+ridicule than of indignation. "Il est parti pour l'ile d'Elbe (said
+they)&mdash;bon voyage!" It was obvious that public affairs, even in those
+critical moments, occupied much less of their attention than of persons
+of the same rank in England: their spirits are much less easily
+depressed; and it was easy to see that their domestic affections are
+less powerful. The men shewed much jealousy of the allied troops: said
+they were superior to the French only in numbers; and often repeated,
+that one French soldier was equal to two Russians.</p>
+
+<p>Although the old men and women whom we saw in the villages were
+generally in the most abject condition, yet the labourers employed in
+the fields appeared nearly as well dressed as the corresponding class in
+England; their wages were stated to be, over most of the country, from
+one franc to 25 sous a-day, and in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris,
+to be as high as two, or even three francs. In some places, we saw them
+dining on bread, pork, and cyder; but the scarcity of live stock was
+such, that it was impossible to suppose that they usually enjoyed so
+good a fare. The interior of the cottages appeared, generally, to be ill
+furnished.</p>
+
+<p>Every village and town through which we passed between Boulogne and
+Paris contained a number of the allied troops. At Beauvais, a town
+remarkable for its singular appearance, being almost entirely built of
+wood, and likewise for the beauty of its cathedral, the choir of which
+is reckoned the finest in France, we were first gratified with the sight
+of some hundreds of Russians, horse and foot, under arms. These troops
+were of the finest description, and belonged to the corps of the
+celebrated Wigtenstein.</p>
+
+<p>We enquired of many of the lower people, in the towns and villages
+through which we passed, concerning the conduct of the allied troops in
+their quarters, and the answers were almost uniformly&mdash;from the men,
+"Ils se comportent bien;" (frequently with the addition, "mais ils
+mangent comme des diables:")&mdash;and from the women, "Ils sont de bons
+enfans." We had very frequent opportunities of remarking the truth of
+the observation, that "women have less bitterness against the enemies of
+their country than men." The Parisian ladies adopted fashions from the
+uniforms of almost all the allied troops whom they saw in Paris; many of
+them were exceedingly anxious for opportunities of seeing the Emperor of
+Russia, and the most distinguished leaders of the armies that had
+conquered France; and those who were acquainted with officers of rank
+belonging to these armies appeared, on all occasions, to be highly
+flattered with the attentions they received from them. The same was
+observable in the conduct of the lower ranks. In the suburbs of Paris,
+and in the neighbouring villages, where many of the allied troops were
+quartered, they appeared always on the best terms with the female
+inhabitants, and were often to be seen assisting them in their work,
+playing at the battledore and shuttlecock with them in the streets, or
+strolling in their company along the banks of the Seine, and through the
+woods of Belleville or St Cloud, evidently to the satisfaction of both
+parties. Much must be allowed for the national levity of the French; yet
+it may be doubted, whether the officers and soldiers of a victorious
+army are ever, in the first instance, very obnoxious to the females,
+even of a vanquished country.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;THE ALLIED ARMIES.</p>
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">T</span><span class="smcap">o</span> those whose attention had been long fixed on the great political
+revulsion which had brought the wandering tribes of the Wolga and the
+Don into the heart of France, and whose minds had been incessantly
+occupied for many months previous to the time of which we speak, (as the
+minds of almost all Englishmen had been), with wishes for the success,
+and admiration of the exploits, of the brave troops who then occupied
+Paris, it may naturally be supposed, that even all the wonders of that
+capital were, in the first instance, objects of secondary consideration.
+It was not until our curiosity had been satisfied by the sight of the
+Emperor Alexander, the Duke of Wellington, Marshal Blucher, Count
+Platoff, and such numbers of the Russian and Prussian officers and
+soldiers, as we considered a fair specimen of the whole armies, that we
+could find time to appreciate the beauties even of the Apollo and the
+Venus.</p>
+
+<p>The streets of Paris are always amusing and interesting, from the
+numbers and varieties of costumes and characters which they present; but
+at the time of which we speak, they might be considered as exhibiting an
+epitome of the greater part of Europe. Parties of Russian cuirassiers,
+Prussian lancers, and Hungarian hussars; Cossacks, old and young, from
+those whose beards were grey with age, to those who were yet beardless,
+cantering along after their singular fashion&mdash;their long lances poised
+on their stirrups, and loosely fastened to their right arms, vibrating
+over their heads; long files of Russian and Prussian foragers, and long
+trains of Austrian baggage waggons, winding slowly through the crowd;
+idle soldiers of all services, French as well as allied, lounging about
+in their loose great coats and trowsers, with long crooked pipes hanging
+from their mouths; patroles of infantry parading about under arms,
+composed half of Russian grenadiers, and half of Parisian national
+guards; Russian coaches and four, answering to the description of Dr
+Clarke, the postillions riding on the off-horses, and dressed almost
+like beggars; Russian carts drawn by four horses a-breast, and driven by
+peasants in the national costume; Polish Jews, with long black beards,
+dressed in black robes like the cassocks of English clergymen, with
+broad leathern belts&mdash;all mingled with the Parisian multitude upon the
+Boulevards: and in the midst of this indiscriminate assemblage, all the
+business, and all the amusements of Paris, went on with increased
+alacrity and fearless confidence. The Palais Royal was crowded, morning,
+noon, and night, with Russian and Prussian officers in full uniform,
+decorated with orders, whose noisy merriment, cordial manners, and
+careless profusion, were strikingly contrasted with the silence and
+sullenness of the French officers.</p>
+
+<p>It is fortunately superfluous for us to enlarge on the appearance, or on
+the character of the Emperor Alexander. We were struck with the
+simplicity of the style in which he lived. He inhabited only one or two
+apartments in a wing of the splendid Elysee Bourbon&mdash;slept on a leather
+mattress, which he had used in the campaign&mdash;rose at four in the
+morning, to transact business&mdash;wore the uniform of a Russian General,
+with only the medal of 1812, (the same which is worn by every soldier
+who served in that campaign, with the inscription, in Russ, <i>Non nobis
+sed tibi Domine</i>); had a French guard at his door&mdash;went out in a chaise
+and pair, with a single servant and no guards, and was very regular in
+his attendance at a small chapel, where the service of the Greek church
+was performed. We had access to very good information concerning him,
+and the account which we received of his character even exceeded our
+anticipation. His well-known humanity was described to us as having
+undergone no change from the scenes of misery inseparable from extended
+warfare, to which his duties, rather than his inclinations, had so long
+habituated him. He repeatedly left behind him, in marching with the
+army, some of the medical men of his own staff, to dress the wounds of
+French soldiers whom he passed on the way; and it was a standing order
+of his to his hospital staff, to treat wounded Russians and French
+exactly alike.</p>
+
+<p>His conduct at the battle of Fere Champenoise, a few days before the
+capture of Paris, of which we had an account from eye-witnesses, may
+give an idea of his conduct while with the armies. The French column,
+consisting of about 5000 infantry, with some artillery, was attacked by
+the advanced guard of the allies, consisting of cavalry, with some
+horse-artillery, under his immediate orders. It made a desperate
+resistance, and its capture being an object of great importance, he sent
+away all his guards, even the Cossacks, and exposed himself to the fire
+of musketry for a long time, directing the movements of the troops. When
+the French squares were at length broken by the repeated charges of
+cavalry and Cossacks, he threw himself into the middle of them, at a
+great personal risk, that he might restrain the fury of the soldiers,
+exasperated by the obstinacy of the resistance; and although he could
+not prevent the whole French officers and men from being completely
+pillaged, many of them owed their lives to his interference. The French
+commander was brought to him, and offered him his sword, which he
+refused to accept, saying, he had defended himself too well.</p>
+
+<p>The wife and children of a General who had been with the French army,
+were brought to him, and he placed a guard over them, which was
+overpowered in the confusion. The unfortunate woman was never more heard
+of, but he succeeded in recovering the children, had a bed made for them
+in his own tent, and kept them with him, until he reached Paris, when he
+ordered enquiry to be made for some of her relations, to whose care he
+committed them.</p>
+
+<p>He was uniformly represented to us as a man not merely of the most
+amiable dispositions, but of superior understanding, of uncommon
+activity, and of a firm decided turn of mind. Of the share which he
+individually had in directing the operations of the allied armies, we do
+not pretend to speak with absolute certainty; but we had reason to know,
+that the general opinion in the Russian army was, that the principal
+movements were not merely subjected to his control, but guided by his
+advice; and he was certainly looked upon, by officers who had long
+served under him, as one of the ablest commanders in the allied armies.</p>
+
+<p>He was much disconcerted, it was said, by the loss of the battle of
+Austerlitz; but his subsequent experience in war had given him the true
+military obstinacy, and he bore the loss of the battles of Lutzen and
+Bautzen with perfect equanimity; often saying, the French can still beat
+us, but they will teach us how to beat them; and we will conquer them by
+our <i>pertinacity</i>. The attachment of the Russian army, and especially of
+the guards, to him, almost approaches to idolatry; and the effect of his
+presence on the exertions and conduct of his troops, was not more
+beneficial to Europe while the struggle was yet doubtful, than to France
+herself after her armies were overthrown, and her "sacred territory"
+invaded.</p>
+
+<p>As a specimen of the general feeling in the Russian army at the time
+they invaded France, we may mention the substance of a conversation
+which an officer of the Russian staff told us he had held with a private
+of the Russian guard on the march, soon after the invasion. The soldier
+complained of the Emperor's proclamation, desiring them to consider as
+enemies only those whom they met in the field. "The French," said he,
+"came into our country, bringing hosts of Germans and Poles along with
+them;&mdash;they plundered our properties, burnt our houses, and murdered our
+families;&mdash;every Russian was their enemy. We have driven them out of
+Russia, we have followed them into Poland, into Germany, and into
+France; but wherever we go, we are allowed to find none but friends.
+This," he added, "is very well for us guards, who know that pillage is
+unworthy of us; but the common soldiers and Cossacks do not understand
+it; they remember how their friends and relations have been treated by
+the French, and that remembrance <i>lies at their hearts</i>."</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We visited with deep interest the projecting part of the heights of
+Belleville, immediately overlooking the Fauxbourg St Martin, which the
+Emperor Alexander reached, with the king of Prussia, the Prince
+Schwartzenburg, and the whole general staff, on the evening of the 30th
+of March. It was here that he received the deputation from Marshals
+Marmont and Mortier, who had fought all day against a vast superiority
+of force, and been fairly overpowered, recommending Paris to the
+generosity of the allies. Thirty howitzers were placed on this height,
+and a few shells were thrown into the town, one or two of which, we were
+assured, reached as far as the Eglise de St Eustace; it is allowed on
+all hands that they fell within the Boulevards. The heights of
+Montmartre were at the same time stormed by the Silesian army, and
+cannon were placed on it likewise,&mdash;Paris was then at his mercy. After a
+year and a half of arduous contest, it was at length in his power to
+take a bloody revenge for the miseries which his subjects had suffered
+during the unprovoked invasion of Russia.&mdash;He ordered the firing to
+cease; assured the French deputation of his intention to protect the
+city; and issued orders to his army to prepare to march in, the next
+morning, in parade order. He put himself at their head, in company with
+the King of Prussia, and all the generals of high rank. After passing
+along the Boulevards to the Champs Elysees, the sovereigns placed
+themselves under a tree, in front of the palace of the Thuilleries,
+within a few yards of the spot where Louis XVI. and many other victims
+of the revolution had perished; and they saw the last man of their
+armies defile past the town, and proceed to take a position beyond it,
+before they entered it themselves.</p>
+
+<p>At this time, the recollection of the fate of Moscow was so strong in
+the Russian army, and the desire of revenge was so generally diffused,
+not merely among the soldiers, but even among the superior, officers,
+that they themselves said, nothing could have restrained them but the
+presence and positive commands of their Czar; nor could any other
+influence have maintained that admirable discipline in the Russian army,
+during its stay in France, which we have so often heard the theme of
+panegyric even among their most inveterate enemies.</p>
+
+<p>It is not in the columns of newspapers, nor in the perishable pages of
+such a Journal as this, that the invincible determination, the splendid
+achievements, and the generous forbearance of the Emperor of Russia and
+his brave army, during the last war, can be duly recorded; but when they
+shall have passed into history, we think we shall but anticipate the
+sober judgment of posterity by saying, that the foreign annals of no
+other nation, ancient or modern, will present, in an equal period of
+time, a spectacle of equal moral grandeur.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The King of Prussia was often to be seen at the Parisian theatres,
+dressed in plain clothes, and accompanied only by his son and nephew.
+The first time we saw him there, he was making some enquiries of a
+manager of the Theatre de l'Odeon, whom he met in the lobby; and the
+modesty and embarrassment of his manner were finely contrasted with the
+confident loquacity and officious courtesy of the Frenchman. He is known
+to be exceedingly averse to public exhibitions, even in his own country.
+He had gone through all the hardships and privations of the campaigns,
+had exposed himself with a gallantry bordering on rashness in every
+engagement, his son and nephew always by his side; his coolness in
+action was the subject of universal admiration; and it was not without
+reason that he had acquired the name of the first soldier in his army.
+His brothers, who are fine looking men, took the command of brigades in
+the Silesian army, and did the duty of brigadiers to the satisfaction of
+the whole army.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We had the good fortune of seeing the Duke of Wellington at the opera,
+the first time that he appeared in public at Paris. He was received with
+loud applause, and the modesty of his demeanour, while it accorded with
+the impressions of his character derived from his whole conduct, and the
+style of his public writings, sufficiently shewed, that his time had
+been spent more in camps than in courts. We were much pleased to find,
+that full justice was done to his merits as an officer by all ranks of
+the allied armies. On the day that he entered Paris, the watch-word in
+the whole armies in the neighbourhood was Wellington, and the
+countersign Talavera. We have often heard Russian and Prussian officers
+say, "he is the hero of the war:&mdash;we have conquered the French by main
+force, but his triumphs are the result of superior skill."</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We found, as we had expected, that Marshal Blucher was held in the
+highest estimation in the allied army, chiefly on account of the
+promptitude and decision of his judgment, and the unconquerable
+determination of his character. We were assured, that notwithstanding
+the length and severity of the service in which he had been engaged
+during the campaign of 1814, he expressed the greatest regret at its
+abrupt termination; and was anxious to follow up his successes, until
+the remains of the French army should be wholly dispersed, and their
+leader unconditionally surrendered. An English gentleman who saw him at
+the time of the action in which a part of his troops were engaged at
+Soissons, a few days previous to the great battle at Laon, gave a
+striking account of his cool collected appearance on that occasion. He
+was lying in profound silence, wrapped up in his cloak, on the snow, on
+the side of a hill overlooking the town, smoking his pipe, and
+occasionally looking through a telescope at the scene of action. At
+length he rose up, saying, it was not worth looking at, and would come
+to nothing. In fact, the main body of the French army was marching on
+Rheims, and he was obliged to retire and concentrate his forces, first
+on Craon, and afterwards on Laon, before he could bring on a general
+action.</p>
+
+<p>He bore the fatigues of the campaign without any inconvenience, but fell
+sick on the day after he entered Paris, and resigned his command,
+requesting only of General Sacken, the governor of the town, that he
+would allot him lodgings from which he could look out upon Montmartre,
+the scene of his last triumph. He never appeared in public at Paris;
+but we had the pleasure of seeing him in a very interesting situation.
+We had gone to visit the Hotel des Invalides, and on entering the church
+under the great dome, we found this great commander, accompanied only by
+his son and another officer, leaning on the rails which encircle the
+monument of Turenne. We followed him into a small apartment off the
+church, where the bodies of Marshals Bessieres and Duroc, and the hearts
+of Generals Laroboissiere and Barraguay D'Hilliers, lay embalmed under a
+rich canopy of black velvet, in magnificent coffins, which were strewed
+with flowers every morning by the Duchess of Istria, the widow of
+Bessieres, who came thither regularly after mass. This room was hung
+with black, and lighted only by a small lamp, which burnt under the
+canopy, and threw its light in the most striking manner on the grey
+hairs and expressive countenance of the old Marshal, as he stood over
+the remains of his late antagonists in arms. He heard the name of each
+with a slight inclination of his head, gazed on the coffins for some
+moments in silence, and then turned about, and, as if to shew that he
+was not to be moved by his recollections, he strode out of the chapel
+humming a tune.</p>
+
+<p>He had vowed to recover possession of the sword of the great Frederic,
+which used to hang in the midst of the 10,000 standards of all nations
+that waved under the lofty dome of this building; but on the day that
+the allies entered Paris, the standards were taken down and burnt, and
+the sword was broken to pieces, by an order, as was said, from Maria
+Louisa.</p>
+
+<p>It is right to notice here, that the famous Silesian army which he
+commanded, consisted originally of many more Russian troops than
+Prussians,&mdash;in the proportion, we were told, of four to one, although
+the proportion of the latter was afterwards increased. Indeed it was at
+first the intention of the Emperor of Russia to put himself at the head
+of this army; but he afterwards gave up that idea, saying, that he knew
+the Russians and Prussians would fight well, and act cordially together;
+but that the presence of the Sovereigns would be more useful in keeping
+together the heterogeneous materials composing the army then forming in
+Bohemia, which afterwards had the name of the grand army.</p>
+
+<p>We have heard different opinions expressed as to the share which General
+Gneisenau, the chief of the staff of the Silesian army, had in directing
+the operations of that army. This General is universally looked on as an
+officer of first-rate merit, and many man&#339;uvres of great importance are
+believed to have been suggested by him; yet it was to the penetrating
+judgment and enthusiastic spirit of the old Marshal, that the officers
+whom we saw seemed most disposed to ascribe their successes.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We were much struck by the courteous and dignified manners of old Count
+Platoff. Even at that time, before he had experienced British
+hospitality, he professed high admiration for the British character,
+individual as well as national, saying, that he looked on every
+Englishman as his brother; and he was equally candid in expressing his
+detestation of the French, not even excepting the ladies. We, however,
+saw him receive one or two Frenchmen, who were presented to him by his
+friends, with his accustomed mildness. His countenance appeared to us
+expressive of considerable humour, and he addressed a few words to
+almost every Cossack of the guard whom he met in passing through the
+court of the Elysee Bourbon, which were always answered by a hearty
+laugh. During the two last campaigns of the war he had been almost
+constantly at head-quarters, and his advice, we were assured, was much
+respected.</p>
+
+<p>On the night after the battle of Borodino, Count Platoff, we were told,
+bivouacked on the field, in front of the position originally occupied by
+the Russians<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>, and on the next day he covered their retreat with his
+Cossacks. One of the Princes of Hesse Philipsthal, an uncommonly
+handsome young man, who had volunteered to act as an aid-de-camp of his,
+had his leg shot away close to his side. Amputation was immediately
+performed above the middle of his thigh; he was laid on a peasant's
+cart, and carried 350 versts almost without stopping. However, he
+recovered perfectly, and petitioned the Emperor to be allowed to wear
+ever after the Cossack uniform. We saw him in it at Paris, going on
+crutches, but regretting in strong terms that he was to see no more
+fighting.</p>
+
+<p>On the day before the French entered Moscow, Count Platoff, and some
+other officers, from one of whom we had this anecdote, breakfasted with
+Count Rostapchin at his villa in the vicinity of the town, which it had
+been the delight of his life to cultivate and adorn. After breakfast,
+Count Rostapchin assembled his servants and retainers; and after saying
+that he hoped his son and latest descendants would always be willing to
+make a similar sacrifice for the good of their country, he took a torch,
+set fire to the building with his own hands, and waited until it was
+consumed. He then rode into the town to superintend the destruction of
+some warehouses full of clothes, of a number of carts, and of other
+things which might be useful to the enemy. But he did not, as we were
+assured by his son, whom we met at Paris, order the destruction of the
+town. The French, enraged at the loss of what was most valuable to them,
+according to the uniform account of the Russians, set fire in a
+deliberate and methodical manner to the different streets. It is but
+justice to say, however, that French officers, who had been at Moscow,
+denied the truth of the latter part of this statement.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The Russian troops in the neighbourhood of Paris were under the
+immediate command of General Count Miloradovitch, a man of large
+property, and unbounded generosity, and an enthusiast in his profession.
+He had been in the habit of always making the troops under his command
+some kind of present on his birth-day. During the retreat of the French
+from Moscow, this day came round when he was not quite prepared for it.
+"I have no money here," said he to his soldiers; "but yonder," pointing
+to a French column, "is a present worthy of you and of me." This address
+was a prelude to one of the most successful attacks, made during the
+pursuit, on the French rear-guard.</p>
+
+<p>The other Russian commanders, whom we heard highly spoken of by the
+Russian officers whom we met, were, the Marshal commanding, Barclay de
+Tolly, in whose countenance we thought we could trace the indications of
+his Scotch origin;&mdash;he is an old man, and was commonly represented as
+"sage, prudent, tres savant dans la guerre."&mdash;Wigtenstein, who is much
+younger, and is designated as "ardent, impetueux, entreprenant,"
+&amp;c.&mdash;Benigsen, who is an old man, but very active, and represented to be
+as fond of fighting as Blucher himself;&mdash;Count Langeron, and Baron
+Sacken, the commanders of corps in the Silesian army. The former is a
+French emigrant, but has been long in the Russian service, and highly
+distinguished himself. The latter is an old man, but very spirited, and
+highly esteemed for his honourable character: in his capacity of
+Governor of Paris, he gave very general satisfaction.&mdash;Woronzoff, who,
+as is well known, was educated in England, and who distinguished
+himself at Borodino, and in the army of the north of Germany, and
+afterwards in France under Blucher&mdash;Winzingerode, one of the best
+cavalry officers, formerly in the Austrian service&mdash;Czernicheff, the
+famous partisan, a gallant gay young man, whose characteristic activity
+is strongly marked in his countenance&mdash;Diebzitch, a young staff officer
+of the first promise, since promoted to the important situation of Chef
+de l'etat major&mdash;Lambert (of French extraction), and Yermoloff: This
+last officer commanded the guards when we were at Paris, and was
+represented as a man of excellent abilities, and of a most determined
+character.</p>
+
+<p>To shew the determined spirit of some of the Russian generals, we may
+mention an anecdote of one of them, which we repeatedly heard. On one
+occasion, the troops under the command of this general were directed to
+defile over a bridge, under a very heavy fire from the enemy. Observing
+some hesitation in their movements, he said, with perfect coolness, "If
+they don't go forward, I will take care they shall not come back;" and
+planted a battery of 12 pounders in their rear, pointing directly at the
+bridge, in view of which they forced the passage in the most gallant
+style.</p>
+
+<p>The spirit of emulation which prevailed in all ranks of the Russian
+army, during the war, was worthy of the cause in which they were
+engaged. The following anecdote, we think, deserves commemoration. Two
+officers of rank had aspired to the same situation in the army, and
+exerted all their influence to obtain it. The successful candidate had
+the command of the famous redoubt at Borodino, when it was carried by
+the French. The other, who had a subordinate command just behind it,
+immediately came up to him, and asked leave to retake it for him. No,
+replied he; if you go there, I must be along with you. They collected
+what force they could, entered the redoubt together, and regained it at
+the point of the bayonet; but the officer who originally commanded in it
+was killed by the side of his rival. The latter, immediately after the
+battle, was promoted to the situation which he had so ardently desired;
+but his enjoyment of it was long and visibly embittered by the
+recollection of the event to which he owed his appointment.</p>
+
+<p>The number of Russian prisoners taken by the French during the war was
+very trifling, and we were assured, that there was no instance in the
+whole course of it, of a single Russian battalion or squadron laying
+down its arms. The number of prisoners taken by the Cossacks alone,
+from the time when the French left Moscow until the passage of the
+Niemen, was 90,000, and the number of cannon 550. It is true that these
+were for the most part stragglers, and men unable to fight; but it must
+be remembered, that many of them could only have been overtaken in their
+flight by these hardy and enterprising troops. To prove the value of the
+service rendered by the Cossacks, it is only necessary to observe, that
+many of the officers who distinguished themselves most in all the
+campaigns, Platoff, Orloff Denizoff, Wasilchikoff, Czernicheff,
+Tettenborn, &amp;c. commanded Cossacks almost exclusively, and attributed
+much of their success to the quality of their troops. Most of the
+Cossacks whom we saw appeared to be well disciplined, and had a truly
+military air; and we were told, that all the 83 regiments of Cossacks
+are at present in a state of tolerable discipline. We cannot go so far
+as Dr Clarke in praise of their cleanliness, but we often observed their
+native easy courtesy of manner; and there can be no doubt, as he
+observes, of their being a much handsomer race than the generality of
+Russians. Their figures are more graceful, and their features are
+higher, and approach often to the Roman style of countenance. One troop
+of the Cossacks of the guards, composed of those from the Black Sea,
+attracted our particular admiration; and the noble manly figures of the
+men, the elegant forms of the horses, and the picturesque appearance of
+the arms and uniforms of the whole body of Cossacks of the guard, were
+very striking. The hereditary Prince of Georgia was at Paris as one of
+the Colonels of this regiment, and his figure and countenance were such
+as might have rendered him remarkable even in his native country, in
+which the "human form divine" is understood to attain its highest
+perfection.</p>
+
+<p>The Cossacks were kept in good order when under the inspection of their
+officers; but during the campaigns, they were often obliged to act in
+patroles, two or three together, at a distance from their officers; and
+in these situations, it may be supposed that they would commit many
+excesses. Immediately after a battle, they plundered all they met, and
+at all times, and in all places, they looked on horses as fair game,
+insomuch that it was often remarked in the allied armies, that they
+believed horses to have been created for none but Cossacks. It was said,
+that almost every Cossack of the corps of Czernicheff was worth from £.
+300 to £. 400 in money and watches, which most of them spent much after
+the manner of British sailors.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">Some idea of the expenditure of human life, during the campaign of 1812,
+may be formed from the following facts, which we had from unquestionable
+authority: The number of killed and wounded on both sides at the battle
+of Borodino, which did not extend from flank to flank more than three
+English miles, was ascertained to exceed 75,000 men. Eighteen thousand
+wounded Russians were dressed on the field, and sent off in carts. When
+the Russian army crossed the Niemen, in pursuit of the French, they left
+behind them 87,000 sick and wounded in hospitals, of which number 63,000
+were wounded. The whole number of human bodies, Russian and French, men,
+women, and children, which were collected and buried or burnt, after the
+retreat from Moscow to the Niemen, exceeded 300,000.</p>
+
+<p>The officers of the Russian medical staff spoke in terms of the utmost
+indignation of the conduct of the French medical staff, in deserting
+their charge on the approach of the Russian armies. A great part of the
+town of Wilna, and surrounding villages, had been converted into
+hospitals for the French army, and when the Russians arrived, they
+found these hospitals wholly deserted by the medical men. The sick (many
+of them labouring under infectious fevers), and the wounded, were
+huddled together, without provisions, attendants, or the slightest
+regard to their situation. The first step of the Russian officers who
+were entrusted with the care of these hospitals, was to employ a number
+of Jews to clear out the corpses, some of which had lain there for three
+weeks; and when these were collected and burnt, their number was found
+to exceed 16,000; the sick were then separated from the wounded; and as
+soon as order was re-established, the Emperor of Russia visited the
+hospitals himself, to be assured that every possible attention was paid
+to their surviving inmates.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole of the winter of 1812 and the year 1813, a typhus fever
+was very prevalent in the French army, and in many places, particularly
+on the fortresses on the Elbe, and in Frankfort and Mentz, it made
+dreadful ravages; but it never extended, to any considerable degree,
+among the Russians. This was partly owing, no doubt, to the influence of
+exciting passions on the constitutions of the men; but much must
+certainly be ascribed to the admirable arrangements of the Russian
+hospital staff, which, under the superintendance of our countryman, Sir
+James Wyllie, have attained, in a few years, a surprising degree of
+excellence. The state of the Russian hospitals at Paris, under the
+direction of another countryman, Dr Crichton, was universally admired.</p>
+
+<p>The Russian imperial guard is, we believe, the finest body of men in
+Europe; the whole number, when the regiments are all complete, is about
+30,000; but the effective men at Paris did not exceed 20,000. These are
+made up from time to time, by picked men from the whole army. The charge
+of one of the regiments of cuirassiers, 1000 strong, upon the Champ de
+Mars, was one of the finest sights imaginable. The clattering of the
+horses feet on hard ground, and the rattling of the armour, increasing
+as they advanced, exceeded the sound of the loudest thunder.</p>
+
+<p>Their horses are not so heavy as those of the English dragoons, but they
+have evidently more blood in them, and their power of bearing fatigues
+and privations is quite wonderful. We were told by the officer
+commanding one of these regiments, that almost all the horses we saw in
+Paris, in the finest possible condition, were on the Niemen when the
+French crossed it in 1812, and had borne the fatigues of the retreat to
+Moscow, and of the advance during the dreadful winter which had proved
+so fatal to the French army; as well as of the winter campaign of 1814
+in France, which was carried on, almost entirely, during frost and snow.
+The Russian soldiers bore the extreme cold of the former winter in a
+manner hardly less wonderful; we were assured that they were not more
+warmly clothed than the French; but they were accustomed to the climate,
+were comparatively well fed, and were animated by victory, while their
+antagonists were depressed by famine and despair.</p>
+
+<p>The equipment of the artillery of the guard is probably the completest
+in the world;&mdash;each gun of the horse artillery is followed by three
+tumbrils of ammunition, and the artillerymen being all mounted and
+armed, a battery of horse artillery is fitted to act in a double
+capacity. One of these batteries, of 12 pieces, on the march, with all
+its accompaniments, takes up fully half-a-mile of road.</p>
+
+<p>The regiments of infantry are of various strength; all are composed of
+the finest men, in point of strength and military appearance, but they
+appeared to us rather inadequately officered. Of the physical powers of
+this body of men, no better proof can be given, than their having
+marched, within 24 hours, on the 22d and 23d of March, a distance of 18
+leagues, or 54 miles, which they did at two marches, resting three
+hours, without any straggling. The occasion on which they most highly
+distinguished themselves was at Culm, where four regiments of them
+(about 8000 men) stopped, for two days, in the defiles of the Riesen
+Gebirge, the whole corps of Vandamme. The regiment Pavloffsky, who were
+made guards for their conduct at Borodino, attracted particular
+attention; they wear caps faced with brass, whence the French soldiers,
+who know them well, call them the Bonnets d'Or; and many of them
+preserve with much care the marks of the bullets by which these have
+been pierced.</p>
+
+<p>The Russian soldiers, at least of the guard, have almost universally
+dark complexions, their features are generally low, and their faces
+broad. The officers and soldiers of the Prussian guard, which is about
+8000 strong, and in an equally high state of discipline and equipment,
+are, on the whole, handsomer men, having generally fair hair, blue eyes,
+high features, and ruddy complexions.</p>
+
+<p>A great number of the Prussian officers have a fine expression of
+romantic enterprise in their countenances; and it is well known, that
+the whole Prussian nation, long oppressed by the presence of French
+armies, entered into the war with France with a spirit of energy and
+union that never was surpassed. The formation of the legion of
+revenge,&mdash;the desertion of all seminaries of education, by teachers as
+well as pupils,&mdash;the substitution of ornaments in iron, for gold and
+jewellery, by the ladies of Berlin and other towns, are striking
+instances of this popular feeling. The war-song, composed by a young
+student from Konigsberg, which was sung in the heat of battle by the
+regiment of volunteer hussars to which he belonged, and the author of
+which was basely slain by a French prisoner whom he had neglected to
+disarm,&mdash;to judge of it by a version which appeared in the newspapers,
+and by the enthusiasm with which the Prussians speak of it, is worthy of
+being translated by one of our noblest poets.</p>
+
+<p>All the nations of Germany have strong feelings of patriotism associated
+with the sight, and even with the name of the Rhine. When the Austrians,
+in one of the last actions of the campaign of 1813, carried the heights
+of Hockheim, in the neigbourhood of Mentz, and first came in sight of
+that river, they involuntarily halted, and stood for some minutes in
+silence; when the Prince Marshal coming up to know the cause of the
+delay, their feelings burst forth in peals of enthusiastic acclamation,
+as they again advanced to the charge. The Prussian corps of the army of
+Silesia, destined to force the passage of the river, assembled on the
+right bank on the evening of the 31st of December 1813, determined to
+begin the year with the conquest to which they had long aspired; and
+just at midnight the first boats pulled off from the shore, the oars
+keeping time to thousands of voices, who sung words adapted to a
+favourite national air by the celebrated Schlegel, the beginning of
+which is, literally translated, "The Rhine shall no longer be our
+boundary,&mdash;it is the great artery of Germany, and it shall flow through
+the heart of our empire."</p>
+
+<p>The Austrians whom we saw at Paris, were in general strong heavy looking
+men. Their cavalry were universally admired; but the Russians and
+Prussians complained much of the general dilatoriness of their
+movements, and in particular, of the quantity of baggage waggons with
+which their march was encumbered. Upon one occasion, some hundreds of
+these fell into the hands of the French, to the great amusement of the
+Russians. The Bavarians and Wirtembergers had the character, both in
+Russia and France, of fighting very hard, and plundering freely. This
+last accomplishment, as well as their military arrangements, they had
+learnt from the French; and their conduct in this respect in France
+itself, might be said to be actuated by a kind of poetical justice.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We were highly gratified by this review of the whole Russian and
+Prussian guard which we saw in the Bois de Boulogne and road to St
+Germain, on the 30th of May. They were drawn up in a single line,
+extending at least six miles. The allied Sovereigns, followed by the
+Princes of Russia, Prussia and France, the French Marshals, and all the
+leading officers of the allied armies, rode at full speed along the
+line; and the loud huzzas of the soldiers, which died away among the
+long avenues of elm trees, as the cloud of dust which enveloped them
+receded from the view, were inexpressibly sublime.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of these troops on parade was such, that but for the
+traces which long exposure to all changes of weather had left on their
+countenances, it never could have been supposed that they had been
+engaged in long marches. They had always marched and fought in their
+great coats and small blue caps, carrying their uniforms in their
+knapsacks. On the night before they entered Paris, however, they put
+them on, and marched into the town in as fine parade order as that in
+which they had left Petersburg. The Parisians, who had been told that
+the allied armies were nearly annihilated, and only a wreck left,
+expressed their astonishment with their usual levity: "Au moins," said
+they, "C'est un beau debris."</p>
+
+<p>While the uniforms, arms, and accoutrements of these troops were in the
+highest order, they seemed to take a pride in displaying the worn and
+faded standards, torn by the winds and pierced with bullets, under which
+they had served during the whole campaigns. Their services might also be
+judged of from the medals of the year 1812, which almost all the
+Russians bore, and to which all without distinction of rank are
+entitled, who were exposed to the enemy's fire during that campaign; and
+from the insignia of various orders, which in both the services extend
+to privates as well as officers. The effect of these honorary rewards on
+the minds of the men is certainly very great; and it is perhaps to be
+regretted that there is no institution of the same kind in the British
+service. The spirit of our soldiers, as all the world knows, needs no
+such stimulus; but if a measure of this kind could in any degree gratify
+their military feelings, surely their country owes them the
+gratification; and what can be more pleasing to a soldier than to see
+his officers and his Sovereign proud to display honours which he shares
+along with them? The Russians appear to set a value on these medals and
+decorations, which clearly shews the wisdom of the policy by which they
+were granted. Almost every wounded soldier wears them even when lying in
+hospital, and in the hour which teaches the insignificance of all the
+titles of kings, and all the treasures of the universe, he still
+rejoices, that he can lay these testimonies of his valour and fidelity
+beside the small crucifix which he brought with him from his home, and
+which, with a superstition that accords better with the true military
+spirit than the thoughtless infidelity of the French, he has carried in
+his bosom through all the chances of war.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">W</span><span class="smcap">ith</span> whatever sentiments a stranger might enter Paris at the time we
+did, his feelings must have been the same with regard to the monuments
+of ancient magnificence, or of modern taste, which it contained. All
+that the vanity or patriotism of a long series of Sovereigns could
+effect for the embellishment of the capital in which they resided; all
+that the conquests of an ambitious and unprincipled Army could
+accumulate from the spoils of the nations whom they had subdued, were
+there presented to the eye of the stranger with a profusion which
+obliterated every former prejudice, and stifled the feelings of
+national emulation in exultation at the greatness of human genius.</p>
+
+<p>The ordinary buildings of Paris, as every traveller has observed, and as
+all the world knows, are in general mean and uncomfortable. The height
+and gloomy aspect of the houses; the narrowness of the streets, and the
+want of pavement for foot passengers, convey an idea of antiquity, which
+ill accords with what the imagination had anticipated of the modern
+capital of the French empire. This circumstance renders the admiration
+of the spectator greater when he first comes in sight of its <i>public
+edifices</i>; when he is conducted to the Place Louis Quinze, or the Pont
+Neuf, from whence he has a general view of the principal buildings of
+this celebrated capital. With the single exception of the view of London
+from the terrace of the Adelphi, there is no point in our own country
+where the effect of architectural design is so great as in the
+situations which have now been mentioned. The view from the former of
+these combines many of the most striking objects which Paris has to
+present. To the east, the long front of the Thuilleries rises over the
+dark mass of foliage which covers its gardens; to the south, the
+picturesque aspect of the town is broken by the varied objects which the
+river presents, and the fine perspective of the Bridge of Peace,
+terminating in the noble front of the palace of the Legislative Body; to
+the west, the long avenues of the Elysian Fields are closed by the
+pillars of a triumphal arch which Napoleon had commenced; while to the
+north, the beautiful façade of the Palace itself, leaves the spectator
+only room to discover at a greater distance the foundation of the Temple
+of Glory, which he had commenced, and in the execution of which he was
+interrupted by those ambitious enterprises to which his subsequent
+downfall was owing. To a painter's eye, the effect of the whole scene is
+increased by the rich and varied foreground which everywhere presents
+itself, composed of the shrubs with which the skirts of the square are
+adorned, and the lofty poplars which rise amidst the splendour of
+architectural beauty; while recent events give a greater interest to the
+spot from which this beauty is surveyed, by the remembrance, that it was
+here that Louis XVI. fell a martyr to the revolutionary principles, and
+that it was here that the Emperor Alexander and the other princes of
+Europe took their station, when their armies passed in triumph through
+the walls of Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the Pont Neuf, though not so striking upon the whole,
+embraces objects of greater individual beauty. The gay and animated
+quays of the city covered with foot-passengers, and with all the varied
+exhibitions of industrious occupation, which, from the warmth of the
+climate, are carried on in the open air;&mdash;the long and splendid front of
+the Louvre and Thuilleries;&mdash;the bold projection of the Palais des Arts,
+of the Hotel de la Monnaie, and other public buildings on the opposite
+side of the river;&mdash;the beautiful perspective of the bridges, adorned by
+the magnificent colonnade which fronts the Palace of the Legislative
+Body;&mdash;and the lofty picturesque buildings of the centre of Paris
+surrounding the more elevated towers of Notre Dame, form a scene, which,
+though less perfect, is more striking, and more characteristic, than the
+scene from the centre of the Place Louis Quinze, which has been just
+described. It conveys at once a general idea of the French capital; of
+that mixture of poverty and splendour by which it is so remarkably
+distinguished; of that grandeur of national power, and that degradation
+of individual importance, which marked the ancient dynasty of the French
+nation. It marks too, in a historical view, the changes of the public
+feeling which the people of this country have undergone, from the
+distant period when the towers of Notre Dame rose amidst the austerity
+of Gothic taste, and were loaded with the riches of Catholic
+superstition, to that boasted æra, when the loyalty of the French people
+exhausted the wealth and the genius of the country, to decorate with
+classic taste the residence of their Sovereigns; and lastly, to those
+later days, when the names of religion and of loyalty have alike been
+forgotten; when the national exultation reposed only on the trophies of
+military greatness, and the iron yoke of imperial power was forgotten in
+the monuments which record the deeds of imperial glory.</p>
+
+<p>To the general observation on the inferiority of the common buildings in
+Paris, there are some remarkable exceptions. The Boulevards, the remains
+of the ancient ramparts of the city, are in general beautiful, from
+their circular form, from their uniform breadth, from the magnificence
+of the detached palaces with which they abound, and from the rows of
+fine trees with which they are shaded. In the skirts of the town, and
+more especially in the Fauxbourg St Germain, the beauty of the streets
+is greatly increased by the detached hotels or villas, surrounded by
+gardens, which are everywhere to be met with, in which the lilac, the
+laburnum, the Bois de Judeé, and the acacia, grow in the most luxuriant
+manner, and on the green foliage of which the eye reposes with singular
+delight amidst the bright and dazzling whiteness of the stone with
+which they are surrounded.</p>
+
+<p>The Hotel des Invalides, the Chelsea Hospital of France, is one of the
+objects on which the Parisians principally pride themselves, and to
+which a stranger is conducted immediately after his arrival in that
+capital. The institution itself appears to be well conducted, and to
+give general satisfaction to the wounded men who have there found an
+asylum from the miseries of war. We were informed that these men live in
+habits of perfect harmony among each other; a state of things widely
+different from that of our veterans in Greenwich Hospital, and which is
+probably chiefly owing to the cheerfulness and equanimity of temper
+which form the best feature in the French character. There is something
+in the style of the architecture of this building, which accords well
+with the object to which it is devoted. The front is distinguished by a
+simple manly portico, and a dome of the finest proportion rises above
+its centre, which is visible from all parts of the city. This dome was
+gilded by order of Bonaparte: and however much a fastidious taste may
+regret the addition, it certainly gave an air of splendour to the whole,
+which was in perfect unison with the feelings of exultation which the
+sight of this monument of military glory was then fitted to awaken
+among the French people. The exterior of this edifice was formerly
+surrounded by cannon captured by the armies of France at different
+periods: and ten thousand standards, the trophies of victory during the
+wars of two centuries, waved under its splendid dome, and enveloped the
+sword of Frederic the Great, which hung from the centre, until the 31st
+of March 1814, when, as already observed, they were all burnt by order
+of Maria Louisa, to prevent their falling into the victorious hands of
+the allied powers.</p>
+
+<p>If the character of the architecture of the Hotel des Invalides accords
+well with the object to which that building is destined, the character
+of the Louvre is not less in unison with the spirit of the fine arts, to
+which it is consecrated. It is impossible for language to convey any
+adequate idea of the impression which this exquisite building awakens in
+the mind of a stranger. The beautiful proportions, and the fine symmetry
+of the great façade, give an air of simplicity to the distant view of
+this edifice, which is not diminished, on nearer approach, by the
+unrivalled beauty of its ornaments and detail; but when you cross the
+threshold of the portico, and pass under its noble archway into the
+inner-court, all considerations are absorbed in the throb of admiration
+which is excited by the sudden display of all that is lovely and
+harmonious in Grecian architecture. You find yourself in the midst of
+the noblest and yet chastest display of architectural beauty, where
+every ornament possesses the character by which the whole is
+distinguished, and where the whole possesses the grace and elegance
+which every ornament presents:&mdash;You find yourself on the spot where all
+the monuments of ancient art are deposited;&mdash;where the greatest
+exertions of mortal genius are preserved&mdash;and where a palace has at last
+been raised worthy of being the depository of the collected genius of
+the human race.&mdash;It bears a higher character than that of being the
+residence of imperial power; it seems destined to loftier purposes than
+to be the abode of earthly greatness; and the only forms by which its
+halls would not be degraded, are those models of ideal perfection which
+the genius of ancient Greece created to exalt the character of a heathen
+world.</p>
+
+<p>Placed in a more elevated spot, and destined to a still higher object,
+the Pantheon bears in its front the traces of the noble purpose for
+which it was intended.&mdash;It was intended to be the cemetery of all the
+great men who had deserved well of their country; and it bears the
+inscription, above its entrance, <i>Aux grands Hommes La Patrie
+reconnoissante</i>. The character of its architecture is well adapted to
+the impression it is intended to convey, and suits the simplicity of the
+inscription which its portico presents. Its situation has been selected
+with singular taste, to aid the effect which was thus intended. It is
+placed at the top of an eminence, which shelves in a declivity on every
+side; and the immediate approach is by an immense flight of steps, which
+form the base of the building, and increase the effect which its
+magnitude produces. Over the entrance is placed a portico of lofty
+pillars, finely proportioned, supporting a magnificent entablature of
+the simplest order; and the whole terminates in a dome of vast
+dimensions, forming the highest object in the whole city. The impression
+which every one must feel in crossing its threshold, is that of
+religious awe; the individual is lost in the greatness of the objects
+with which he is surrounded, and he dreads to enter what seems the abode
+of a greater Power, and to have been framed for the purposes of more
+elevated worship. The Louvre might have been fitted for the gay scenes
+of ancient sacrifice; it suits the brilliant conceptions of heathen
+mythology; and seems the fit abode of those ideal forms, in which the
+imagination of ancient times embodied their conception of divine
+perfection; but the Pantheon is adapted for a holier worship, and
+accords with the character of a purer belief; and the vastness and
+solitude of its untrodden chambers awaken those feelings of human
+weakness, and that sentiment of human immortality, which befit the
+temple of a spiritual faith.</p>
+
+<p>We were involuntarily led, by the sight of this great monument of sacred
+architecture in the Grecian style, to compare it with the Gothic
+churches which we had seen, and in particular with the Cathedral of
+Beauvais, the interior of which is finished with greater delicacy, and
+in finer proportions, than any other edifice of a similar kind in
+France. The impression which the inimitable choir of Beauvais produced,
+was widely different from that which we felt on entering the lofty dome
+of the Pantheon at Paris. The light pinnacles, the fretted roof, the
+aspiring form of the Gothic edifice, seemed to have been framed by the
+hands of aerial beings, and produced, even from a distance, that
+impression of grace and airiness which it was the peculiar object of
+this species of Gothic architecture to excite. On passing the high
+archway which covers the western door, and entering the immense aisles
+of the Cathedral, the sanctity of the place produces a deeper
+impression, and the grandeur of the forms awakens profounder feelings.
+The light of the day is excluded, the rays of the sun come mellowed
+through the splendid colours with Which the windows are stained, and
+cast a religious light over the marble pavement which covers the floor;
+while the eye reposes on the harmonious forms of the lancet windows, or
+is bewildered in the profusion of ornament with which the roof is
+adorned. The impression which the whole produces, is that of religious
+emotion, singularly suited to the genius of Christianity; if is seen in
+that obscure light which fits the solemnity of religious duty, and
+awakens those feelings of intense delight, which prepare the mind for
+the high strain of religious praise. But it is not the deep feeling of
+humility and weakness which is produced by the dark chambers and massy
+pillars of the Pantheon at Paris; it is not in the mausoleum of the dead
+that you seem to wander, nor on the thoughts of the great that have gone
+before you that the mind revolves; it is in the scene of thanksgiving
+that your admiration is fixed; it is with the emblems of Hope that your
+devotion is awakened, and with the enthusiasm of gratitude that the
+mind is filled. Beneath the gloomy roof of the Grecian Temple, the
+spirit is concentrated within itself: it seeks the repose which solitude
+affords, and meditates on the fate of the immortal soul; but it loves to
+follow the multitude into the Gothic Cathedral, to join in the song of
+grateful praise which peals through its lengthened aisles, and to share
+in the enthusiasm which belongs to the exercise of common devotion.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Notre Dame is the only Gothic building of note in
+Paris, and it is by no means equal to the expectations we had been led
+to form of it. The style of its architecture is not that of the finest
+Gothic; it has neither the exquisite lightness of ornament which
+distinguishes the summit of Gloucester Cathedral, nor the fine lancet
+windows which give so unrivalled a beauty to the interior of Beauvais,
+nor the richness of roof which covers the tombs of Westminster Abbey.
+Its character is that of massy greatness; its ornaments are rich rather
+than elegant, and its interior striking more from its immense size than
+the beauty of the proportion in which it is formed. In spite of all
+these circumstances, however, the Cathedral of Notre Dame produces a
+deep impression on the mind of the beholder; its towers rise to a
+stupendous height above all the buildings which surround them; while
+the stone of every other edifice is of a light colour, they alone are
+black with the smoke of centuries; and exhibit a venerable aspect of
+ancient greatness in the midst of the brilliancy of modern decoration
+with which the city abounds. Even the crowd of ornaments with which they
+are loaded, and the heavy proportion in which they are built, are
+forgotten in the effect which their magnitude produces; they suit the
+gloomy character of the building they adorn, and accord with the
+expression of antiquated power by which its aged forms are now
+distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>To those who have been accustomed to the form of worship which is
+established in Protestant countries, there is nothing so striking in the
+Catholic churches as the complete oblivion of rank, or any of the
+distinctions of established society, which there universally prevails.
+There are no divisions of seats, nor any places fixed for any particular
+classes of society. All, of whatever rank or station, kneel alike upon
+the marble pavement; and the whole extent of the church is open for the
+devotion of all classes of the people. You frequently see the poorest
+citizens with their children kneeling on the stone close to those of the
+highest rank, or the most extensive fortunes. This custom may appear
+painful to those who have been habituated to the forms of devotion in
+the English churches; but it produces an impression on the mind of the
+spectator which nothing in our service is capable of effecting. To see
+the individual form lost in the immensity of the objects with which he
+is surrounded; to see all ranks and ages blended in the exercise of
+common devotion; to see all distinction forgotten in the sense of common
+infirmity, suits the spirit of that religion which was addressed to the
+poor as well as to the rich, and fits the presence of that Being before
+whom all ranks are equal.</p>
+
+<p>Nor is it without a good effect upon the feelings of mankind, that this
+custom has formed a part of the Catholic service. Amidst that
+degradation of the great body of the people, which marks the greater
+part of the Catholic countries&mdash;amidst the insolence of aristocratic
+power, which the doctrines of the Catholic faith are so well suited to
+support, it is fitting that there should be some occasions on which the
+distinctions of the world should be forgotten; some moments in which the
+rich as well as the poor should be humbled before a greater power&mdash;in
+which they should be reminded of the common faith in which they have
+been baptized, of the common duties to which they are called, and the
+common hopes which they have been permitted to form.</p>
+
+<p>We had the good fortune to see high mass performed in Notre Dame, with
+all the pomp of the Catholic service, for the souls of Louis XVI. Marie
+Antoinette, and the Dauphin, on May 16, 1814, soon after the King's
+arrival in Paris. The Cathedral was hung with black in every part; the
+brilliancy of day wholly excluded, and it was lighted only by double
+rows of wax tapers, which burned round the coffins, placed in the centre
+of the choir. It was crowded to excess in every part; all the Marshals,
+Peers, and dignitaries of France, were stationed with the Royal Family
+near the centre of the Cathedral, and all the principal officers of the
+allied armies attended at the celebration of the service. The King was
+present, though without being perceived by the vast assembly by whom he
+was surrounded; and the Duchess d'Angouleme exhibited, in this
+melancholy duty, that mixture of firmness and sensibility by which her
+character has always been distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>It was said, that there were several persons present at this solemn
+service who had voted for the death of the King; and many of those
+assembled must doubtless have been conscious that they had been
+instrumental in the death of those for whose souls this solemn service
+was now performing. The greater part, however, of those whom we had an
+opportunity of observing, exhibited the symptoms of genuine sorrow, and
+seemed to participate in the solemnity with unfeigned devotion. The
+Catholic worship was here displayed in its utmost splendour; all the
+highest prelates of France were assembled to give dignity to the
+spectacle; and all that art could devise was exhausted to render the
+scene impressive in the eyes of the people. To us, however, who had been
+habituated to the simplicity of the English form, the variety of
+unmeaning ceremony, the endless gestures and unceasing bows of the
+clergy who officiated, destroyed the impression which the solemnity of
+the service would otherwise have produced. But though the service itself
+appeared ridiculous, the effect of the whole scene was sublime in the
+greatest degree. The black tapestry hung in heavy folds round the sides
+of the Cathedral, and magnified the impression which its vastness
+produced. The tapers which surrounded the coffins threw a red and gloomy
+light over the innumerable multitude which thronged the floor; their
+receding rays faintly illuminated the farther recesses, or strained to
+pierce the obscure gloom in which the summits of the pillars were lost;
+while the sacred music pealed through the distant aisles, and deepened
+the effect of the thousands of voices which joined in the strains of
+repentant prayer.</p>
+
+<p>Among the exhibitions of art to which a stranger is conducted
+immediately after his arrival in the French metropolis, there is none
+which is more characteristic of the disposition of the people than the
+<i>Musèe des Monumens François</i>, situated in the Rue des Petits Angustins.
+This is a collection of all the finest sepulchral monuments from
+different parts of France, particularly from the Cathedral of St Denis,
+where the cemetery of the royal family had, from time immemorial, been
+placed. It is said by the French, that the collection of these monuments
+into one museum was the only means of preserving them from the fury of
+the people during the revolution; and certainly nothing but absolute
+necessity could have justified the barbarous idea of bringing them from
+the graves they were intended to adorn, to one spot, where all
+associations connected with them are destroyed. It is not the mere
+survey of the monuments of the dead that is interesting,&mdash;not the
+examination of the specimens of art by which they may be adorned;&mdash;it is
+the remembrance of the deeds which they are intended to record,&mdash;of the
+virtues they are destined to perpetuate,&mdash;- of the pious gratitude of
+which they are now the only testimony&mdash;above all, of the dust they
+actually cover. They remind us of the great men who formerly filled the
+theatre of the world,&mdash;they carry us back to an age which, by a very
+natural illusion, we conceive to have been both wiser and happier than
+our own, and present the record of human greatness in that pleasing
+distance when the great features of character alone are remembered, when
+time has drawn its veil over the weaknesses of mortality, and its
+virtues are sanctified by the hand of death. It is a feeling fitted to
+elevate the soul; to mingle the thoughts of death with the recollection
+of the virtues by which life had been dignified, and renovate in every
+heart those high hopes of religion which spring from, the grave of
+former virtue.</p>
+
+<p>All this delightful, this purifying illusion, is destroyed by the way in
+which the monuments are collected in the Museum at Paris. They are there
+brought together from all parts of France; severed from the ashes of the
+dead they were intended to cover; and arranged in systematic order to
+illustrate the history of the art whose progress they unfold. The tombs
+of all the Kings of France, of the Generals by whom its glory has been
+extended, of the statesmen by whom its power, and the writers by whom
+its fame has been established, are crowded together in one collection,
+and heaped upon each other, without any other connexion than that of the
+time in which they were originally raised. The Museum accordingly
+exhibits, in the most striking manner, the power of arrangement and
+classification which the French possess; it is valuable, as containing
+fine models of the greatest men whom France has produced, and exhibits a
+curious specimen of the progress of art, from its first commencement to
+the period of its greatest perfection; but it has wholly lost that deep
+and peculiar interest which belongs to the monuments of the dead in
+their original situation.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining to the Museum, is a garden planted with trees, in which many
+of the finest monuments are placed; but in which the depravity of the
+French taste appears in the most striking manner. It is surrounded with
+houses, and darkened by the shade of lofty buildings; yet, in this
+gloomy situation, they have placed the tomb of Fenelon, and the united
+monument of Abelard and Eloise: profaning thus, by the barbarous
+affectation of artificial taste, and the still more shocking imitation
+of ancient superstition, the remains of those whose names are enshrined
+in every heart which can feel the beauty of moral excellence, or share
+in the sympathy with youthful sorrow.</p>
+
+<p>How different are the feelings with which an Englishman surveys the
+untouched monuments of English greatness!&mdash;and treads the floor of that
+venerable building which shrouds the remains of all who have dignified
+their native land&mdash;in which her patriots, her poets, and her
+philosophers, "sleep with her kings, and dignify the scene," which the
+rage of popular fury has never dared to profane, and the hand of
+victorious power has never been able to violate; where the ashes of the
+immortal dead still lie in undisturbed repose, under that splendid roof
+which covered the tombs of her earliest kings, and witnessed, from its
+first dawn, the infant glory of the English people.&mdash;Nor could the
+remembrance of the national monuments we have described, ever excite in
+the mind of a native of France, the same feeling of heroic devotion
+which inspired the sublime expression of Nelson, as he boarded the
+Spanish Admiral's ship at St Vincent's&mdash;"Westminster Abbey or Victory!"</p>
+
+<p>Though the streets in Paris have an aged and uncomfortable appearance,
+the form of the houses is such, as, at a distance, to present a
+picturesque aspect. Their height, their sharp and irregular tops, the
+vast variety of forms which they assume when seen from different
+quarters, all combine to render a distant view of them more striking
+than the long rows of uniform houses of which London is composed. The
+domes and steeples of Paris, however, are greatly inferior, both in
+number and magnificence, to those of the English capital.</p>
+
+<p>The gardens of the Thuilleries and the Luxembourg, of which the
+Parisians think so highly, and which are constantly filled with all
+ranks of citizens, are laid out with a singularity of taste, of which,
+in this country, we can scarcely form any conception. The straight
+walks&mdash;the clipt trees&mdash;the marble fountains&mdash;are fast wearing out in
+all parts of England; they are to be met with only round the mansions of
+ancient families, and even there are kept rather from the influence of
+ancient prejudice, or from the affection to hereditary forms, than from
+their coincidence with the present taste of the English people. They are
+seldom, accordingly, disagreeable, with us, to the eye of the most
+cultivated taste; their singularity forms a pleasing variety to the
+continued succession of lawns and shrubberies which is every where to be
+met with; and they are regarded rather as the venerable marks of
+ancient splendour, than as the barbarous affectation of modern
+distinction. In France, the native deformity of this taste appears in
+its real light, without the colouring of any such adventitious
+circumstances as conceal it in this country. It does not appear there
+under the softening veil of ancient manners; its avenues do not conduct
+to the decaying abode of hereditary greatness&mdash;its gardens do not mark
+the scenes of former festivity&mdash;its fountains are not covered with the
+moss which has grown for centuries. It appears as the model of present
+taste; it is considered as the indication of existing splendour; and
+sought after, as the form in which the beauty of Nature is now to be
+admired. All that association accordingly had blended in our minds with
+the style of ancient gardening in our own country, was instantly
+divested by its appearance in France; and we felt then the whole
+importance of that happy change in the national taste, whereby variety
+has been made to succeed to uniformity, and the imitation of nature to
+come in the place of the exhibition of art.</p>
+
+<p>In every country, and in every department of taste, the earliest object
+of art is, the display of the power of the artist; and it is in the last
+period of its improvements alone, that this miserable propensity is
+overcome. It is hence that the imitation of Nature is not what is at
+first attempted; that the forms which she presents are uniformly
+neglected, and the merit of the artist is thought to consist in such
+artificial designs as bear the most unequivocal marks of his individual
+dexterity. The forms of nature are every where to be met with&mdash;they are
+open to the most vulgar capacity; the power of art, therefore, it is at
+first thought, must be shown in the complete subjugation of natural
+form, or the complete abandonment of natural beauty. It is hence that
+florists uniformly take delight in double flowers and monsters, which
+are the farthest removed from the forms of nature; and it is hence that
+gardeners always evince so great an anxiety to conduct strangers to the
+most ridiculous contortion of natural form, which their domains can
+exhibit. There is nothing unnatural or vulgar in this propensity; it
+pervades all branches of taste at a certain stage of its progress, and
+all ranks of society, to whom a limited capacity of mind is granted. It
+is hence that every society exhibits examples of individuals, who aim at
+singularity of manners, merely that they may be different from the
+generality of mankind; it is hence that many persons, even of a
+cultivated mind, shut their eye to the charms of beauty in every
+department of taste, merely that they may display their own wretched
+vanity in criticising its imperfections; it is hence that painters
+select the moment of passion or exertion, for no other reason than for
+the display of their anatomical knowledge, or their skill in the
+delineation of extraordinary emotion; and that poets have so often
+neglected what is really pathetic in the scenes, either of nature or of
+man, to present the artificial conceptions of their learning or fancy.
+In all these instances, the degradation of taste arises from the vain
+anxiety of men to display the power of the artist, and their utter
+forgetfulness of the end of the Art.</p>
+
+<p>The remarkable characteristic of the taste of France is, that this love
+of artificial beauty continues with undiminished force, at a period
+when, in other nations, it has given place to a more genuine love for
+the beauty of nature. In them, the natural progress of refinement has
+led from the admiration of the art of imitation to the love of the
+subjects imitated. In France, this early prejudice, continues in its
+pristine vigour at the present moment: They never lose sight of the
+effort of the artist; their admiration is fixed not on the quality or
+object in nature, but on the artificial representation of it; not on the
+thing signified, but the sign. It is hence that they have such exalted
+ideas of the perfection of their artist David, whose paintings are
+nothing more than a representation of the human figure in its most
+extravagant and phrenzied attitudes; that they are insensible to the
+simple display of real emotion, but dwell with delight upon the vehement
+representation of it which their stage exhibits; and that, leaving the
+charming heights of Belleville, or the sequestered banks of the Seine,
+almost wholly deserted, they crowd to the stiff alleys of the Elysian
+Fields, or the artificial beauties of the gardens of Versailles.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of Paris this artificial style of gardening is not
+altogether unpleasing; it is in unison, in some measure, with the
+regular character of the buildings with which it is surrounded; and the
+profusion of statues and marble vases continues the impression which the
+character of their palaces is fitted to produce. But at Versailles, at
+St Cloud, and Fountainbleau, amidst the luxuriance of vegetation, and
+surrounded by the majesty of forest scenery, it destroys altogether the
+effect which arises from the irregularity of natural beauty. Every one
+feels straight borders, and square porticoes and broad alleys, to be in
+unison with the immediate neighbourhood of an antiquated mansion; but
+they become painful when extended to those remoter parts of the
+grounds, when the character of the scene is determined by the rudeness
+of uncultivated nature.</p>
+
+<p>There are some occasions, nevertheless, on which the gardens of the
+Thuilleries present a beautiful spectacle, in spite of the artificial
+taste in which they are formed. From the warmth of the climate, the
+Parisians, of all classes, live much in the open air, and frequent the
+public gardens in great numbers during the continuance of the fine
+weather. In the evening especially, they are filled with citizens, who
+repose themselves under the shade of the lofty trees, after the heat and
+the fatigues of the day; and they then present a spectacle of more than
+ordinary interest and beauty. The disposition of the French suits the
+character of the scene, and harmonises with the impression which the
+stillness of the evening produces on the mind. There is none of that
+rioting or confusion by which an assembly of the middling classes in
+England is too often disgraced; no quarrelling or intoxication even
+among the poorest ranks, and little appearance of that degrading want
+which destroys the pleasing idea of public happiness. The people appear
+all to enjoy a certain share of individual prosperity; their intercourse
+is conducted with unbroken harmony, and they seem to resign themselves
+to those delightful feelings which steal over the mind during the
+stillness and serenity of a summer evening.</p>
+
+<p>Still more beautiful perhaps, is the appearance of this scene during the
+stillness of the night, when the moon throws her dubious rays over the
+objects of nature. The gardens of the Thuilleries remain crowded with
+people, who seem to enjoy the repose which universally prevails, and
+from whom no sound is to be heard which can break the stillness or
+serenity of the scene. The regularity of the forms is wholly lost in the
+masses of light and shadow that are there displayed; the foliage throws
+a chequered shade over the ground beneath, while the different vistas of
+the Elysian Fields are seen in that soft and mellow light by which the
+radiance of the moon is so peculiarly distinguished. After passing
+through these favourite scenes of the French people, we frequently came
+to small encampments of the allied troops in the remote parts of the
+grounds. The appearance of these bivouacks, composed of Cossack
+squadrons, Hungarian hussars, or Prussian artillery, in the obscurity of
+moonlight, and surrounded by the gloom of forest scenery, was beyond
+measure striking. The picturesque forms of the soldiers, sleeping on
+their arms under the shade of the trees, or half hid by the rude huts
+which they had erected for their shelter; the varied attitudes of the
+horses standing amidst the waggons by which the camp was followed, or
+sleeping beside the veterans whom they had borne through all the
+fortunes of war; the dark masses of the artillery, dimly discerned in
+the shades of night, or faintly reflecting the pale light of the moon,
+presented a scene of the most beautiful description, in which the rude
+features of war were softened by the tranquillity of peaceful life; and
+the interest of present repose was enhanced by the remembrance of the
+wintry storms and bloody fields through which these brave men had
+passed, during the memorable campaigns in which they had been engaged.
+The effect of the whole was increased by the perfect stillness which
+everywhere prevailed, broken only at intervals by the slow step of the
+sentinel, as he paced his rounds, or the sweeter sounds of those
+beautiful airs, which, in a far distant country, recalled to the Russian
+soldier the joys and the happiness of his native land.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">ENVIRONS OF PARIS.</p>
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">S</span><span class="smcap">t Cloud</span>
+was the favourite residence of Bonaparte, and, from this
+circumstance, possesses an interest which does not belong to the other
+imperial palaces. It stands high, upon a lofty bank overhanging the
+Seine, which takes a bold sweep in the plain below; and the steep
+declivity which descends to its banks is clothed with magnificent woods
+of aged elms. The character of the scenery is bold and rugged;&mdash;the
+trees are of the wildest forms, and the most stupendous height, and the
+banks, for the most part, steep and irregular. It is here, accordingly,
+that the French gardening appears in all its genuine deformity; and that
+its straight walks and endless fountains display a degree of formality
+and art, destructive of the peculiar beauty by which the scene is
+distinguished. These gardens, however, were the favourite and private
+walks of the Emperor;&mdash;it was here that he meditated those schemes of
+ambition which were destined to shake the established thrones of
+Europe;&mdash;it was under the shade of this luxuriant foliage that he formed
+the plan of all the mighty projects which he had in contemplation;&mdash;it
+was in the splendid apartments of this palace that the Councils of
+France assembled, to revolve on the means of permanently destroying the
+English power:&mdash;It was here too, by a most remarkable coincidence, that
+his destruction was finally accomplished;&mdash;that the last convention was
+concluded, by which his second dethronement was completed;&mdash;and that the
+victorious arms of England dictated the terms of surrender to his
+conquered capital.</p>
+
+<p>When we visited St Cloud, it was the head-quarters of Prince
+Schwartzenberg; and the Austrian grenadiers mounted guard at the gates
+of the Imperial Palace. The banks of the Seine, below the Palace, were
+covered by an immense bivouack of Austrian troops, and the fires of
+their encampment twinkled in the obscurity of twilight amidst the low
+brushwood with which the sides of the river were clothed. The
+appearance of this bivouack, dimly discerned through the rugged stems of
+lofty trees, or half-hid by the luxuriant branches which obscured the
+view;&mdash;the picturesque and varied aspect of the plain covered with
+waggons, and all the accompaniments of military service;&mdash;the columns of
+smoke rising from the fires with which it was interspersed, and the
+innumerable horses crowded amidst the confused multitude of men and
+carriages, or resting in more sequestered spots on the sides of the
+river, with their forms finely reflected in its unruffled
+waters&mdash;presented a spectacle which exhibited war in its most striking
+aspect, and gave a character to the scene which would have suited the
+romantic strain of Salvator's mind.</p>
+
+<p>St Germain, though less picturesquely situated than St Cloud, presents
+features, nevertheless, of more than ordinary magnificence. The Palace,
+now converted into a school of military education by Napoleon, is a mean
+irregular building, though it possesses a certain interest, by having
+been long the residence of the exiled house of Stuart. The situation,
+however, is truly fitted for an imperial dwelling; it stands on the edge
+of a high bank overhanging the Seine, at the end a magnificent terrace,
+a mile and a half long, built on the projecting heights which edge the
+river. The walk along this terrace is the finest spectacle which the
+vicinity of Paris has to present. It is backed along its whole extent by
+the extensive forest of St Germain, the foliage of which overhangs the
+road, and in the recesses of which you can occasionally discern those
+beautiful peeps which form the peculiar characteristic of forest
+scenery. The steep bank which descends to the river is clothed with
+orchards and vineyards in all the luxuriance of a southern climate; and
+in front, there is spread beneath your feet the wide plain in which the
+Seine wanders, whose waters are descried at intervals through the woods
+and gardens with which its banks are adorned; while, in the farthest
+distance, the towers of St Denis, and the heights of Paris, form an
+irregular outline on the verge of the horizon. It is a scene exhibiting
+the most beautiful aspect of cultivated nature, and would have been the
+fit residence for a Monarch who loved to survey his subjects' happiness:
+but it was deserted by the miserable weakness of Louis XIV., because the
+view terminated in the cemetery of the Kings of France, and his
+enjoyment of it would have been destroyed by the thoughts of mortal
+decay.</p>
+
+<p>Versailles, which that monarch chose as the ordinary abode of his
+splendid Court, is less favourably situate for a royal dwelling, though
+the view from the great front of the palace is beautifully clothed with
+luxuriant woods. The palace itself is a magnificent building of great
+extent, loaded with the riches of architectural beauty, but destitute of
+that fine proportion and lightness of ornament, which spread so
+indescribable a charm over the Palace of the Louvre. The interior is in
+a state of lamentable decay, having been pillaged at the commencement of
+the revolutionary fury, and formed into a barrack for the republican
+soldiers, the marks of whose violence are still visible in the faded
+splendour of its magnificent apartments. They still shew, however, the
+favourite rooms of Marie Antoinette, the walls of which are covered with
+the finest mirrors, and some remains of the furniture are still
+preserved, which even the licentious fury of the French army seems to
+have been afraid to violate. The gardens on which all the riches of
+France, and all the efforts of art, were so long lavished, present a
+painful monument of the depravity of taste: but the <i>Petit Trianon</i>,
+which is a little palace built of marble, and surrounded by shrubberies
+in the English style, exhibits the genuine beauty of which the
+imitation of nature is susceptible. This palace contains a suite of
+splendid apartments, fitted up with singular taste, and adorned with a
+number of charming pictures; it was the favourite residence of Maria
+Louisa, and we were there shewn the drawing materials which she used,
+and some unfinished sketches which she left, in which, we were informed,
+she much delighted, and which bore the marks of a cultivated taste.</p>
+
+<p>We frequently enquired concerning the character and occupations of this
+Empress, at all the palaces where she usually dwelt, and uniformly
+received the same answer:&mdash;She was everywhere represented as cold,
+proud, and haughty in her manner, and unconciliating in her ordinary
+address. Her time was much spent in private, in the exercise of
+religious duty, or in needle-work and drawing; and her favourite seat at
+St Cloud was between two windows, from one of which she had a view over
+the beautiful woods which clothe the banks of the river, and from the
+other a distant prospect of the towers and domes of Paris.</p>
+
+<p>Very different was the character which belonged to the former Empress,
+the first wife of Bonaparte, Josephine: She passed the close of her life
+at the delightful retreat of Malmaison, a villa charmingly situated on
+the banks of the Seine, seven miles from Paris, on the road to St
+Germain. This villa had been her favourite residence while she continued
+Empress, and formed her only home after the period of her divorce;&mdash;here
+she lived in obscurity and retirement, without any of the pomp of a
+court, or any of the splendour which belonged to her former
+rank,&mdash;occupied entirely in the employment of gardening, or in
+alleviating the distresses of those around her. The shrubberies and
+gardens were laid out with singular beauty, in the English taste, and
+contained a vast variety of rare flowers, which she had for a long
+period been collecting. These shrubberies were to her the source of
+never-failing enjoyment; she spent many hours in them every day, working
+herself, or superintending the occupations of others; and in these
+delightful occupations seemed to return again to all the innocence and
+happiness of youth. She was beloved to the greatest degree by all the
+poor who inhabited the vicinity of her retreat, both for the gentleness
+of her manner, and her unwearied attention to their sufferings and their
+wants; and during the whole period of her retirement, she retained the
+esteem and affection of all classes of French citizens. The Emperor
+Alexander visited her repeatedly during the stay of the allied armies
+in Paris; and her death occasioned an universal feeling of regret,
+rarely to be met with amidst the corruption and selfishness of the
+French metropolis.</p>
+
+<p>There was something singularly striking in the history and character of
+this remarkable woman:&mdash;Born in a humble station, without any of the
+advantages which rank or education could afford, she was early involved
+in all the unspeakable miseries of the French revolution, and was
+extricated from her precarious situation only by being united to that
+extraordinary man, whose crimes and whose ambition have spread misery
+through every country of Europe: Rising through all the gradations of
+rank through which he passed, she everywhere commanded the esteem and
+regard of all those who had access to admire her private virtues; and
+when at length she was raised to the rank of Empress, she graced the
+imperial throne with all the charities and virtues of a humbler station.
+She bore, with unexampled magnanimity, the sacrifice of power and of
+influence which she was compelled to make: She carried into the
+obscurity of humble life all the dignity of mind which befitted the
+character of an Empress of France; and exercised, in the delightful
+occupations of country life, or in the alleviation of the severity of
+individual distress, that firmness of mind and gentleness of
+disposition, with which she had lightened the weight of imperial
+dominion, and softened the rigour of despotic power.</p>
+
+<p>The Forest of Fontainbleau exhibits scenery of a more picturesque and
+striking character than is to be met with in any other part of the north
+of France. It is situated 40 miles from Paris, on the great road to
+Rome, and the appearance of the country through which this road runs, is
+for the most part flat and uninteresting. It runs through a continued
+plain, in a straight line between tall rows of elm trees, whose lower
+branches are uniformly cut off for firewood to the peasantry; and
+exhibits, for the most part, no other feature than the continued riches
+of agricultural produce. At the distance of seven miles from the town of
+Fontainbleau, you first discern the forest, covering a vast ridge of
+rocks, stretching as far as the eye can reach, from right to left, and
+presenting a dark irregular outline on the surface of the horizon. The
+cultivation continues, with all its uniformity, to the very foot of the
+ridge; but the moment you pass the boundaries of the forest, you find
+yourself surrounded at once with all the wildness and luxuriance of
+natural scenery. The surface of the ground is broken and irregular,
+rising at times into vast piles of shapeless rocks, and enclosing at
+others small vallies, in which the wood grows in endless beauty,
+unblighted by the chilling blasts of northern climates. In these
+vallies, the oak, the ash, and the beech, exhibit the peculiar
+magnificence of forest scenery, while, on the neighbouring hills, the
+birch waves its airy foliage round the dark masses of rock which
+terminate the view. Nothing can be conceived more striking than the
+scenery which this variety of rock and wood produce in every part of
+this romantic forest. At times you pass through an unbroken mass of aged
+timber, surrounded by the native grandeur of forest scenery, and
+undisturbed by any traces of human habitation, except in those rude
+paths which occasionally open a passing view into the remoter parts of
+the forest. At others, the path winds through great masses of rock,
+piled in endless confusion upon each other, in the crevices of which the
+fern and the heath grow in all the luxuriance of southern vegetation;
+while their summits are covered by aged oaks of the wildest forms, whose
+crossing boughs throw an eternal shade over the ravines below, and
+afford room only to discern at the farthest distance the summits of
+those beautiful hills, on which the light foliage of the birch trembles
+in the ray of an unclouded sun, or waves on the blue of a summer
+heaven.</p>
+
+<p>To those who have had the good fortune to see the beautiful scenery of
+the Trosachs in Scotland, of Matlock in Derbyshire, or of the wooded
+Fells in Cumberland, it may afford some idea of the Forest of
+Fontainbleau, to say that it combines scenery of a similar description
+with the aged magnificence of Windsor Forest. Over its whole extent
+there are scattered many detached oaks of vast dimensions, which seem to
+be of an older race in the growth of the Forest,&mdash;whose lowest boughs
+stretch above the top of the wood which surrounds them,&mdash;and whose
+decayed summits afford a striking contrast to the young and luxuriant
+foliage with which their stems are enveloped. When we visited
+Fontainbleau, it was occupied by the old imperial guard, which still
+remained in that station after the abdication of Bonaparte; and we
+frequently met parties, or detached stragglers of them, wandering in the
+most solitary parts of the Forest. Their warlike and weather-beaten
+appearance; their battered arms and worn accoutrements; the dark plumes
+of their helmets, and the sallow ferocious aspect of their countenances,
+suited the savage character of the scenery with which they were
+surrounded, and threw over the gloom and solitude of the Forest that
+wild expression with which the genius of Salvator dignified the features
+of uncultivated nature.</p>
+
+<p>The town and palace of Fontainbleau are situate in a small plain near
+the centre of the forest, and surrounded on all sides by the rocky
+ridges with which it is everywhere intersected. The palace is a large
+irregular building, composed of many squares, and fitted up in the
+inside with the utmost splendour of imperial magnificence. We were there
+shewn the apartments in which Napoleon dwelt during his stay in the
+palace, after the capture of Paris by the allied troops; and the desk at
+which he always wrote, and where his abdication was signed. It was
+covered with white leather, scratched over in every direction, and
+marked with innumerable wipings of the pen, among which we perceived his
+own name, Napoleon, frequently written as in a very hurried and
+irregular hand; and one sentence which began, Que Dieu, Napoleon,
+Napoleon. The servants in the palace agreed in stating, that the
+Emperor's gaiety and fortitude of mind never deserted him during the
+ruin of his fortune; that he was engaged in his writing-chamber during
+the greater part of the day, and walked for two hours on the terrace, in
+close conversation with Marshal Ney. Several officers of the imperial
+guard repeated the speech which he made to his troops on leaving them
+after his abdication of the throne, which was precisely what appeared
+in the English newspapers. So great was the enthusiasm produced by this
+speech among the soldiers present, that it was received with shouts and
+cries of Vive l'Empereur, A Paris, A Paris! and when he departed under
+the custody of the allied Commissioners, the whole army wept; there was
+not a dry eye in the multitude who were assembled to witness his
+departure. Even the imperial guard, who had been trained in scenes of
+suffering from their first entry into the service&mdash;who had been inured
+for a long course of years to the daily sight of human misery, and had
+constantly made a sport of all the afflictions which are fitted to move
+the human heart, shared in the general grief; they seemed to forget the
+degradation in which their commander was involved, the hardships to
+which they had been exposed, and the destruction which he had brought
+upon their brethren in arms; they remembered him when he stood
+victorious on the field of Austerlitz, or passed in triumph through the
+gates of Moscow; and shed over the fall of their Emperor those tears of
+genuine sorrow which they denied to the deepest scenes of private
+suffering, or the most aggravated instances of individual distress. It
+is impossible not to regret that feelings so exalting to human nature
+should have been awakened by one who shared so little in their
+enthusiasm himself; that the sufferings of thousands should have been
+forgotten in the fate of one to whom the miseries of others never
+afforded a subject of regret; and that the only occasion on which
+generous sentiments were manifested by the French army, should have been
+the overthrow of that power by which their ambition and their wickedness
+had been supported.</p>
+
+<p>We had the good fortune to see the infantry of the old guard drawn up in
+line in the streets of Fontainbleau, and their appearance was such as
+fully answered the idea we had formed of that body of veteran soldiers,
+who had borne the French eagles through every capital of Europe. Their
+aspect was bold and martial; there was a keenness in their eyes which
+bespoke the characteristic intelligence of the French soldiers, and a
+ferocity in the expression of their countenances which seemed to have
+been unsubdued even by the unparalleled disasters in which their country
+had been involved. The people of the town itself complained in the
+bitterest terms of their licentious conduct, and repeatedly said, that
+they dreaded them more as friends than the Cossacks themselves as
+enemies. They seemed to harbour the most unbounded resentment against
+the people of this country; their countenances bore the expression of
+the strongest enmity as we walked along their line, and we frequently
+heard them mutter among themselves, in the most emphatic manner, <i>Sacre
+Dieu, voila des Anglois!</i>&mdash;Whatever the atrocity of their conduct,
+however, might have been, to the people of their own, as well as every
+other country, it was impossible not to feel the strongest emotion at
+the sight of the veteran soldiers whose exploits had so long rivetted
+the attention of all who felt an interest in the civilized world. These
+were the men who first raised the glory of the republican armies on the
+plains of Italy; who survived the burning climate of Egypt, and chained
+victory to the imperial standards at Jena, at Austerlitz, and at
+Friedland&mdash;who followed the career of victory to the walls of the
+Kremlin, and marched undaunted through the ranks of death amid the snows
+of Russia;&mdash;who witnessed the ruin of France under the walls of Leipsic,
+and struggled to save her falling fortune on the heights of Laon; and
+who preserved, in the midst of national humiliation, and when surrounded
+by the mighty foreign Powers, that undaunted air and unshaken firmness,
+which, even in the moment of defeat, commanded the respect of their
+antagonists in arms.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the town of Fontainbleau, there rises a ridge of steep hills,
+which prevents any view in that direction into the distant parts of the
+forest. The road to their summit lies through the Imperial Gardens, and
+is surrounded by the artificial forms and regular walks which mark the
+character of the French gardening. When you reach the summit, however,
+the character of the scene instantly changes, and you pass at once into
+the utmost wildness of desolated nature. The foreground is broken by
+barren rock, or covered with the beautiful forms of the weeping birch;
+immediately below there lies a lonely valley, strewed with masses of
+grey stone, without the slightest trace of human habitation, while, in
+the farthest distance, the forest is discerned, clothing the sides of
+those broken ridges which rise in endless confusion on the surface of
+the horizon. At the moment when we reached this spot, the sun was
+setting in the west; the cold grey of the stone which covered the
+ravines was dimly discerned through the obscure light which the approach
+of night produced, while the rugged outline of the rocks beyond was
+projected in the deepest shadow on the bright light of the departing
+day.</p>
+
+<p>There is no scenery round Paris so striking as the forest of
+Fontainbleau, but the heights of Belleville exhibit nature in a more
+pleasing aspect, and are distinguished by features of a gentler
+character. Montmartre, and the ridge of Belleville, form those
+celebrated heights which command Paris on the northern side, and which
+were so obstinately contested between the allies and the French on the
+30th March 1814, previous to the capture of Paris by the allied
+Sovereigns. Montmartre is covered for the most part with houses, and
+presents nothing to attract the eye of the observer, except the
+extensive view which is to be met with at its summit. The heights of
+Belleville, however, are varied with wood, with orchards, vineyards, and
+gardens, interspersed with cottages and villas, and cultivated with the
+utmost care. There are few inclosures, but the whole extent of the
+ground is thickly studded with walnuts, fruit-trees, and forest timber,
+which, from a distance, give it the appearance of one continued wood. On
+a nearer approach, however, you find it intersected in every direction
+by small paths, which wind among the vineyards, or through the woods
+with which the hills are covered, and present at every turn those
+charming little scenes which form the peculiar characteristic of
+woodland scenery. The cottages half hid by the profusion of
+fruit-trees, or embosomed in the luxuriant woods with which they are
+everywhere surrounded, increase the interest which the scenery itself is
+fitted to produce: they combine the delightful idea of the peasant's
+enjoyment with the beauty of the spot on which his dwelling is placed;
+and awaken, in the midst of the boundless luxuriance of vegetable
+nature, those deeper feelings of moral delight, which spring from the
+contemplation of human happiness.</p>
+
+<p>To a northern eye, there is nothing so delightful as this luxuriance of
+vegetation, which rises amidst the warmth of southern climates. The
+sterile rocks and rugged mountains of northern regions exhibit nature in
+her native rudeness, her features bear a harsher aspect, and her forms
+are expressive of more melancholy feeling; but under the genial warmth
+of a southern sun, she is arrayed in a robe of softer colours, and beams
+with the expression of a gentler character. She there appears surrounded
+by the luxuriance of vegetable life: she pours forth her bounty with a
+profusion which the partizans of utility would call prodigality, and
+covers the earth with a splendour of beauty, which serves no other
+purpose than to minister to the delight of human existence. Amidst the
+riches with which man is surrounded, his destiny appears happier than
+in more desolate situations; we forget the sufferings of the individual
+in the profusion of beauty with which he is surrounded; and impute to
+the inhabitants of these delightful regions, those feelings of happiness
+which spring in our own minds from the contemplation of the scenery in
+which they are placed.</p>
+
+<p>The effect of the charming scenery on the heights of Belleville is much
+increased by the distant objects which terminate some parts of the view.
+To the east, the high and gloomy towers of Vincennes rise over the
+beautiful woods with which the sides of the hill are adorned, and give
+an air of solemnity to the scene, arising from the remembrance of the
+tragic events of which it was the theatre. To the south, the domes and
+spires of Paris can occasionally be discovered through the openings of
+the wood with which the foreground is enriched, and present the capital
+at that pleasing distance, when the minuter part of the buildings are
+concealed, when its prominent features alone are displayed, and the
+whole is softened by the obscure light which distance throws over the
+objects of nature. To an English mind, the effect of the whole is
+infinitely increased, by the animating associations with which this
+scenery is connected;&mdash;by the remembrance of the mighty struggle between
+freedom and slavery, which was here terminated;&mdash;of the heroic deeds
+which were here performed, and the unequalled magnanimity which was here
+displayed. It was here that the expiring efforts of military despotism
+were overthrown&mdash;that the armies of Russia stood triumphant over the
+power of France, and nobly avenged the ashes of their own capital, by
+sparing that of their prostrate enemy.</p>
+
+<p>When we visited the heights of Belleville, the traces of the recent
+struggle were visibly imprinted on the villages and woods with which the
+hill is covered. The marks of blood were still to be discerned on the
+chaussée which leads through the village of Pantin; the elm trees which
+line the road were cut asunder, or bored through with cannon shot, and
+their stems riddled in many parts with the incessant fire of the grape
+shot. The houses in La Villette, Belleville and Pantin, were covered
+with the marks of musket shot; the windows of many were shattered, or
+wholly destroyed, and the interior of the rooms broken by the balls
+which seemed to have pierced every part of the buildings. So thickly
+were the houses in some places covered with these marks, that it
+appeared almost incredible how any one could have escaped from so
+destructive a fire. Even the beautiful gardens with which the slope of
+the heights are adorned, and the inmost recesses of the wood of
+Romainville, bore throughout the marks of the desperate struggles which
+they had lately witnessed, and exhibited the symptoms of fracture or
+destruction in the midst of the luxuriance of natural beauty; yet,
+though they had so recently been the scene of mortal combat; though the
+ashes of the dead yet lay in heaps on different parts of the field of
+battle, the prolific powers of nature were undecayed: the vines
+clustered round the broken fragments of the instruments of war,&mdash;the
+corn spread a sweeter green over the fields, which were yet wet with
+human blood, and the trees waved with renovated beauty over the
+uncoffined remains of the departed brave; emblematic of the decay of
+man, and of the immortality of nature.</p>
+
+<p>The French have often been accused of selfishness, and the indifference
+which they often manifest to the fate of their relations, affords too
+much reason to believe that the social affections have little permanent
+influence on their minds. We must, however, admit, that they exhibit in
+misfortunes of a different kind&mdash;in calamities which really press upon
+their own enjoyments of life, the same gaiety of heart, and the same
+undisturbed equanimity of disposition. That gaiety in misfortune, which
+is so painful to every observer, when it is to be found in the midst of
+family-distress, becomes delightful when it exists under the deprivation
+of the selfish gratification to which the individual had been
+accustomed. Both here, and in other parts of France, where the houses of
+the peasants had been wholly destroyed by the allied armies, we had
+occasion frequently to observe and admire the equanimity of mind with
+which these poor people bore the loss of all their property. For an
+extent of 30 miles in one direction, towards the North of Champagne,
+every house near the great road had-been burnt or pillaged for the
+firewood which it contained, both by the French and the allied armies,
+and the people were everywhere compelled to sleep in the open air. When
+we spoke to them on the subject of their losses, they answered with
+smiles, "Tout est detruit: tout est brulè, tout, tout;" and seemed to
+derive amusement from the completeness of the devastation. The men were
+everywhere rebuilding their fallen walls, with a cheerfulness which
+never would have existed in England under similar circumstances; and the
+little children laboured in the gardens during the day, and slept under
+the vines at night, without exhibiting any signs of distress for their
+disconsolate situation. In many places, we saw groupes of these little
+children in the midst of the ruined houses, or under the shattered
+trees, playing with the musket shot, or trying to roll the cannon balls
+by which the destruction of their dwellings had been
+effected;&mdash;exhibiting a picture of youthful joy and native innocence,
+while sporting with the instruments of human destruction, which the
+genius of Sir Joshua Reynolds would have moulded into the expression of
+pathetic feeling, or employed as the means of moral improvement.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;THE LOUVRE.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">T</span><span class="smcap">o</span>
+those who have had the good fortune to see the pictures and statues
+which were preserved in the Louvre, all description of these works must
+appear superfluous; and to those who have not had this good fortune,
+such an attempt could convey no adequate idea of the objects which are
+described. There is nothing more uninteresting than the catalogue of
+pictures which are to be found in the works of many modern travellers;
+nor any thing in general more ridiculous than the ravings of admiration
+with which this catalogue is described, and with which the reader in
+general is little disposed to sympathise. Without attempting,
+therefore, to enumerate the great works which were there to be met with,
+we shall confine ourselves to a simpler object, to the delineation of
+the <i>general character</i> by which the different schools of painting are
+distinguished, and the great features in which they all differ from the
+sculpture of ancient times. For the justice of these observations, we
+must of course appeal to those who have examined this great collection;
+and in the prosecution of them, we pretend to nothing more than the
+simple account of the feelings which, we are persuaded, must have
+occurred to all those who have viewed it without any knowledge of the
+rules which art has established, or the more despicable principles which
+connoisseurs have maintained.</p>
+
+<p>For an attempt of this kind, the Louvre presented, singular advantages,
+from the unparalleled collection of paintings of every school and
+description which was there to be met with, and the facility with which
+you could trace the progress of the art from its first beginning to the
+period of its greatest perfection. And it is in this view that the
+collection of these works into one museum, however much to be deplored
+as the work of unprincipled ambition, and however much it may have
+diminished the impression which particular objects, from the influence
+of association, produced in their native place, was yet calculated, we
+conceive, to produce the greatest of all improvements in the progress of
+the art, by divesting particular schools and particular works of the
+unbounded influence which the effect of early association, or the
+prejudices of national feeling, have given them in their original
+situation, and placing them where their real nature is to be judged of
+by a more extended circle, and subjected to the examination of more
+impartial sentiments.</p>
+
+<p>The character of every school of painting has been determined by some
+peculiar circumstances under which that school first originated, which
+have contributed to form its greatest excellencies, and been the real
+source of its principal defects; and it has unfortunately happened, that
+the unbounded admiration for the great production of these schools has
+everywhere formed the national taste, and tended to perpetuate their
+errors, when the progress of society would otherwise have led to their
+earlier abandonment. It deserves well to be considered, therefore,
+whether the restoration of these monuments of art to their original
+situations, while it must unquestionably enhance the veneration with
+which they will severally be regarded, may not perpetuate the defects
+which particular circumstances have stamped on their school of
+composition; and whether the continuance of them in one vast collection,
+however fatal to the implicit veneration for the works of antiquity, was
+not calculated, by the comparison of their excellencies and the
+exhibition of their defects, to form a new school, possessed of a more
+general character, and adapted for the admiration of a more unbiassed
+public. It is in the despotic reign of arbitrary governments, if we may
+be allowed, in a discussion on matters of taste, to borrow an
+illustration from politics, that the influence of ancient error, and the
+power of ancient prejudice, is most unbounded; but it is in the
+unbiassed discussion which distinguishes a free state, that the
+influence of prejudice is forgotten, and truth emerges from the
+collision of opposite opinions. However this may be, it will not, it is
+hoped, be deemed an useless attempt, if we now endeavour to state, in a
+few words, the impression which was produced by this great collection of
+the works of art, which has been felt, we doubt not, by all who have
+viewed it with untutored eyes, but has not hitherto been described by
+those so much better able to do justice to it than ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The first hall of the Louvre in the Picture Gallery is filled with
+paintings of the French school. The principal artists whose works are
+here exhibited are, Le Brun, Gaspar and Nicolas Poussin, Claude Lorrain,
+Vernet, and the modern painters Gerard and David. The general character
+of the school of French historical painting, is the expression of
+<i>passion and violent emotion</i>. The colouring is for the most part
+brilliant; the canvas crowded with figures, and the incident selected,
+that in which the painter might have the best opportunity of displaying
+his knowledge of the human frame, or the varied expression of the human
+countenance. In the pictures of the modern school of French painting,
+this peculiarity is pushed to an extravagant length, and, fortunately
+for the art, displays the false principles on which the system of their
+composition is founded. The moment seized is uniformly that of the
+strongest and most violent passion; the principal actors in the piece
+are represented in a state of phrenzied exertion, and the whole
+anatomical knowledge of the artist is displayed in the endless
+contortions into which the human frame is thrown. In David's celebrated
+picture of the three Horatii, this peculiarity appears in the most
+striking light. The works of this artist may excite admiration, but it
+is the limited and artificial admiration of the schools; of those who
+have forgot the end of the art in the acquisition of the technical
+knowledge with which it is accompanied, or the display of the technical
+powers which its execution involves.</p>
+
+<p>The paintings of <i>Vernet</i>, in this collection, are perhaps the finest
+specimens of that beautiful master, and they entitle him to a higher
+place in the estimation of mankind than he seems yet to have obtained
+from the generality of observers. There is a delicacy of colouring, an
+unity of design, and a harmony of expression in his works, which accord
+well with the simplicity of the subjects which his taste has selected,
+and the general effect which it was his object to produce. In the
+representation of the sun dispelling the mists of a cloudy morning; of
+his setting rays gilding the waves of a western sea; or of that
+undefined beauty which moonlight throws over the objects of nature, the
+works of this artist are perhaps unrivalled.</p>
+
+<p>The paintings of <i>Claude</i> are by no means equal to what we had expected,
+from the celebrity which his name has acquired, or the matchless beauty
+which the engravings from him possess. They are but eleven in number,
+and cannot be in any degree compared with those which are to be found in
+Mr Angerstein's collection. To those, however, who have been accustomed
+to study the designs of this great master, through the medium of the
+engraved copies, and above all, in the unrivalled works of Woollet, the
+sight of the original pictures must, perhaps at all times, create a
+feeling of disappointment. There is an unity of effect in the engravings
+which can never be met with amidst the distraction of colouring in the
+original pictures; and the imagination clothes the beautiful shades of
+the copy with finer tints than even the pencil of Claude has been able
+to supply. "I have shewn you," said Corinne to Oswald, "St Peter's for
+the first time, when the brilliancy of its decorations might appear in
+full splendour, in the rays of the sun: I reserve for you a finer, and a
+more profound enjoyment, to behold it by the light of the moon." Perhaps
+there is a distinction of the same kind between the gaudy brilliancy of
+varied colours, and the chaster simplicity of uniform shadows; and it is
+probably for this reason, that on the first view of a picture which you
+have long admired in the simplicity of engraved effect, you
+involuntarily recede from the view, and seek in the obscure light and
+uncertain tint which distance produces, to recover that uniform tone and
+general character, which the splendour of colouring is so apt to
+destroy. It is a feeling similar to that which Lord Byron has so finely
+described, as arising from the beauty of moonlight scenery:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;"Mellow'd to that tender light</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Which Heaven to gaudy day denies."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch and Flemish school, to which you next advance, possesses
+merit, and is distinguished by a character of a very different
+description. It was the well-known object of this school, to present an
+exact and faithful <i>imitation of nature</i>; to exaggerate none of its
+faults, and enhance none of its excellencies, but exhibit it as it
+really appears to the eye of an ordinary spectator. Its artists
+selected, in general, some scene of humour or amusement, in the
+discovery of which, the most ignorant spectators might discover other
+sources of pleasure than those which the merit of the art itself
+afforded. They did not pretend, in general, to aim at the exhibition of
+passion or powerful emotion: their paintings, therefore, are free from
+that painful display of theatrical effect, which characterises the
+French school; their object was not to represent those deep scenes of
+sorrow or suffering, which accord with the profound feelings which it
+was the object of the Italian school to awaken; they want, therefore,
+the dignity and grandeur which the works of the greater Italian
+painters possess: their merit consists in the faithful delineation of
+those ordinary scenes and common occurrences, which are familiar to the
+eye of the most careless observer. The power of the painter, therefore,
+could be displayed only in the minuteness of the finishing, or the
+brilliancy of the effect; and he endeavoured, by the powerful contrast
+of light and shade, to give an higher character to his works, than the
+nature of their subject could otherwise admit.</p>
+
+<p>The pictures of Teniers, Ostade, and Gerard Dow, possess these merits,
+and are distinguished by this character in the highest degree; but their
+qualities are so well known in this country, as to render any
+observation on them superfluous. There is a very great collection here
+preserved of the works of Rembrandt, and their design and effect bear,
+in general, a higher character than belongs to most of the works of this
+celebrated master.</p>
+
+<p>In one respect, the collection in the Louvre is altogether
+unrivalled&mdash;in the number and beauty of the <i>Wouvermans</i> which are there
+to be met with; nor is it possible, without having seen it, to
+appreciate, with any degree of justice, the variety of design, the
+accuracy of drawing, or delicacy of finishing, which distinguish his
+works from those of any other painter of a similar description. There
+are 38 of his pieces there assembled, all in the finest state of
+preservation, and all displaying the same unrivalled beauty of colouring
+and execution. In their design, however, they widely differ; and they
+exhibit, in the most striking manner, the real object to which painting
+should be applied, and the causes of the errors in which its composition
+has been involved. His works, for the most part, are crowded with
+figures; his subjects are in general battle-pieces, or spectacles of
+military pomp, or the animated scenes which the chace presents; and he
+seems to have exhausted all the efforts of his genius, in the variety of
+incident and richness of execution, which these subjects are fitted to
+afford. From the confused and indeterminate expression, however, which
+the multitude of their objects exhibit, we turn with delight to those
+simpler scenes in which his mind seems to have reposed, after the
+fatigues which it had undergone: to the representation of a single
+incident, or the delineation of a certain occurrence&mdash;to the rest of the
+traveller after the fatigues of the day&mdash;to the repose of the horse in
+the intermission of labour&mdash;to the return of the soldier after the
+dangers of the campaign;&mdash;scenes, in which every thing combines for the
+uniform character, and where the genius of the artist has been able to
+give to the rudest occupations of men, and even to the objects of animal
+life, the expression of general poetical feeling.</p>
+
+<p>The pictures of <i>Vandyke</i> and <i>Rubens</i> belong to a much higher school
+than that which rose out of the wealth and the limited taste of the
+Dutch people. There are 60 pieces of the latter of these masters in the
+Louvre, and, combined with the celebrated Gallery in the Luxembourg
+Palace, they form the finest assemblage of them which is to be met with
+in the world. The character of his works differs essentially from that
+both of the French and the Dutch schools; he was employed, not in
+painting cabinet pictures for wealthy merchants, but in designing great
+altar pieces for splendid churches, or commemorating the glory of
+sovereigns in imperial galleries. The greatness of his genius rendered
+him fit to attempt the representation of the most complicated and
+difficult objects; but in the confidence of this genius, he seems to
+have lost sight of the genuine object of composition in his art. He
+attempts what it is impossible for painting to accomplish&mdash;he aims at
+telling a whole story by the expression of a single picture; and seems
+to pour forth the profusion of his fancy, by crowding his canvas with a
+multiplicity of figures, which serve no other purpose than that of
+shewing the endless power of creation which the author possessed. In
+each figure there is great vigour of conception, and admirable power of
+execution; but the whole possesses no general character, and produces no
+permanent emotion. There is a mixture of allegory and truth in many of
+his greatest works, which is always painful; a grossness in his
+conception of the female form, which destroys the symmetry of female
+beauty; and a wildness of imagination in his general design, which
+violates the feelings of ordinary taste. You survey his pictures with
+astonishment&mdash;at the power of thought and brilliancy of colouring which
+they display; but they produce no lasting impression on the mind; they
+have struck no chord of feeling or emotion, and you leave them with no
+other feeling, than that of regret, that the confusion of objects
+destroys the effect which each in itself might be fitted to produce. And
+if one has made a deeper impression; if you dwell on it with that
+delight which it should ever be the object of painting to produce, you
+find that your pleasure proceeds from a single figure, or the expression
+of a detached part of the picture; and that, in the contemplation of it,
+you have, without being conscious of it, detached your mind from the
+observation of all that might interfere with its characteristic
+expression, and thus preserved that unity of emotion which is essential
+to the existence of the emotion of taste, but which the confusion of
+incident is so apt to destroy.</p>
+
+<p>A few landscapes by <i>Ruysdael</i> are to be here met with, which are
+distinguished by that boldness of conception, fidelity of execution, and
+coldness of colouring, which have often been remarked as the
+characteristics of this powerful master.</p>
+
+<p>It is in the Italian school, however, that the collection in the Louvre
+is most unrivalled, and it is from its character that the general
+tendency of the modern school of historical painting is principally to
+be determined.</p>
+
+<p>The general object of the Italian school appears to be the expression of
+<i>passion</i>. The peculiar subjects which its painters were called on to
+represent, the sufferings and death of our Saviour, the varied
+misfortunes to which his disciples were exposed, or the multiplied
+persecutions which the early fathers of the church had to sustain,
+inevitably prescribed the object to which their genius was to be
+directed, and the peculiar character which their works, were to assume.
+They have all, accordingly, aimed at the expression of passion, and
+endeavoured to excite the pity, or awaken the sympathy of the spectator;
+though the particular species of passion which they have severally
+selected, has varied with the turn of mind which the artist possessed.</p>
+
+<p>The works of <i>Dominichino</i> and of the <i>Caraccis</i>, of which there are a
+very great number, incline, in general, to the representation of what is
+dark or gloomy in character, or what is terrific and appalling in
+suffering. The subjects which the first of these masters has in general
+selected, are the cells of monks, the energy of martyrs, or the
+sufferings of the crucifixion; and the dark-blue coldness of his
+colouring, combined with the depth of his shadows, accord well with the
+gloomy character which his compositions possess. The <i>Caraccis</i>, amidst
+the variety of objects which their genius has embraced, have dwelt, in
+general, upon the expression of sorrow&mdash;of that deep and profound sorrow
+which the subjects of Sacred History were so fitted to afford, and which
+was so well adapted to that religious emotion which it was their object
+to excite.</p>
+
+<p>Guido Reni, Carlo Maratti, and Murillo, are distinguished by a gentler
+character; by the expression of tenderness and sweetness of
+disposition: and the subjects which they have chosen are, for the most
+part, those which were fitted for the display of this predominant
+expression&mdash;the Holy Family, the flight into Egypt, the youth of St
+John, the penitence of the Magdalene. While, in common with all their
+brethren, they have aimed at the expression of emotion, it was an
+emotion of a softer kind than that which arose from the energy of
+passion, or the violence of suffering; it was the emotion produced by
+more permanent feelings; and less turbulent affections; and from the
+character of this emotion, their execution has assumed a peculiar cast,
+and their composition been governed by a peculiar principle. Their
+colouring is seldom brilliant; there is a subdued tone pervading the
+greater part of their pictures; and they have limited themselves, in
+general, to the delineation of a single figure, or a small group, in
+which a single character of mind is prevalent.</p>
+
+<p>Of the numerous and splendid collection of <i>Titian's</i> which are here
+preserved, it is not necessary to give any description, because they
+consist for the most part of portraits, and our object is not to dwell
+on the richness of colouring, or powers of execution, but on the
+principles of composition by which the different schools of painting
+are distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>There are only six paintings by Salvator Rosa in this collection, but
+they bear that wild and original character which is proverbially known
+to belong to the works of this great artist. One of his pieces is
+particularly striking, a skirmish of horse, accompanied by all the
+scenery in which he so peculiarly delighted. In the foreground is the
+ruins of an old temple, with its lofty pillars finely displayed in
+shadow above the summits of the horizon;&mdash;in the middle distance the
+battle is dimly discerned through the driving rain, which obscures the
+view; while the back ground is closed by a vast ridge of gloomy rocks,
+rising into a dark and tempestuous sky. The character of the whole is
+that of sullen magnificence; and it affords a striking instance of the
+power of great genius, to mould the most varied objects in nature into
+the expression of one uniform poetical feeling.</p>
+
+<p>Very different is the expression which belongs to the softer pictures of
+Correggio&mdash;of that great master, whose name is associated in every one's
+mind with all that is gentle or delicate in the imitation of nature.
+Perhaps it was from the force of this impression that his works did not
+completely come up to the expectations which we had been led to form.
+They are but eight in number, and do not comprehend the finest of his
+compositions. Their general character is that of tenderness and
+delicacy: there is a softness in his shading of the human form which is
+quite unrivalled, and a harmony in the general tone of his colouring,
+which is in perfect unison with the characteristic expression which it
+was his object to produce. You feel a want of unity, however, in the
+composition of his figures; you dwell rather on the fine expression of
+individual form, than the combined tendency of the whole group, and
+leave the picture with the impression of the beauty of a single
+countenance, rather than the general character of the whole design. He
+has represented nature in its most engaging aspect, and given to
+individual figures all the charms of ideal beauty; but he wants that
+high strain of spiritual feeling, which belongs only to the works of
+Raphael.</p>
+
+<p>The only work of Carlo Dolci in the Louvre is a small cabinet picture;
+but it alone is sufficient to mark the exquisite genius which its author
+possessed. It is of small dimensions, and represents the Holy Family,
+with the Saviour asleep. The finest character of design is here combined
+with the utmost delicacy of execution; the softness of the shadows
+exceeds Correggio himself; and the dark-blue colouring which prevails
+over the whole, is in perfect unison with the expression of that rest
+and quiet which the subject requires. The sleep of the Infant is
+perfection itself&mdash;it is the deep sleep of youth and of innocence, which
+no care has disturbed, and no sorrow embittered, and in the unbroken
+repose of which the features have relaxed into the expression of perfect
+happiness. All the features of the picture are in unison with this
+expression, except in the tender anxiety of the Virgin's eye; and all is
+at rest in the surrounding objects, save where her hand gently removes
+the veil to contemplate the unrivalled beauty of the Saviour's
+countenance.</p>
+
+<p>Without the softness of shading or the harmony of colour which Correggio
+possessed, the works of Raphael possess a higher character, and aim at
+the expression of a sublimer feeling, than those of any other artist
+whom modern Europe has produced. Like all his brethren, he has often
+been misled from the real object of of his art, and tried, in the energy
+of passion, or the confused expression of varied figures, to multiply
+the effect which his composition might produce. Like all the rest, he
+has failed in effecting what the constitution of the human mind renders
+impossible, and in this very failure, warned every succeeding age of the
+vanity of the attempt which his transcendent genius was unable to
+effect. It is this fundamental error that destroys the effect, even of
+his finest pieces; it is this, combined with the unapproachable nature
+of the presence which it reveals, that has rendered the Transfiguration
+itself a chaos of genius rather than a model of ideal beauty; nor will
+it, we hope, be deemed a presumptuous excess, if we venture to express
+our sentiments in regard to this great author, since it is from his own
+works alone that we have derived the means of appreciating his
+imperfections.</p>
+
+<p>It is in his smaller pieces that the genuine character of Raphael's
+paintings is to be seen&mdash;in the figure of St Michael subduing the demon;
+in the beautiful tenderness of the Virgin and Child; in the unbroken
+harmony of the Holy Family; in the wildness and piety of the infant St
+John;&mdash;scenes, in which all the objects of the picture combine for the
+preservation of one uniform character, and where the native fineness of
+his mind appears undisturbed by the display of temporary passion, or the
+painful distraction of varied suffering.</p>
+
+<p>There are no pictures of the English school in the Louvre, for the arms
+of France never prevailed in our island. From the splendid character,
+however, which it early assumed under the distinguished guidance of Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, and from the high and philosophical principles which he
+at first laid down for the government of the art, there is every reason
+to believe that it ultimately will rival the celebrity of foreign
+genius; And it is in this view that the continuance of the gallery of
+the Louvre was principally to be wished by the English nation&mdash;that the
+English artists might possess, so near their own country, so great a
+school for composition and design; that the imperfections of foreign
+schools might enlighten the views of English genius; and that the
+conquests of the French arms, by transferring the remains of ancient
+taste to these northern shores, might give greater facilities to the
+progress of our art, than can exist when they are restored to their
+legitimate possessors.</p>
+
+<p>The great object, then, of all the modern schools of historical
+painting, seems to have been, the delineation of an <i>affecting scene</i> or
+<i>interesting occurrence</i>; they have endeavoured to tell a story by the
+variety of incidents in a single picture; and seized, for the most part,
+the moment when passion was at its greatest height, or suffering
+appeared in its most excruciating form. The general character,
+accordingly, of the school, is the expression of passion or violent
+suffering; and in the prosecution of this object, they have endeavoured
+to exhibit it under all its aspects, and display all the effects which
+it could possibly produce on the human form, by the different figures
+which they have introduced. While this is the general character of the
+whole, there are of course numerous exceptions; and many of its greatest
+painters seem, in the representation of single figures, or in the
+composition of smaller groups, to have had in view the expression of
+less turbulent affections; to have aimed at the display of settled
+emotion, or permanent feeling, and to have excluded every thing from
+their composition which was not in unison with this predominant
+expression.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Sculpture Gallery</i>, which contains 220 remains of ancient statuary,
+marks, in the most decided manner, the different objects to which this
+noble art was applied in ancient times. Unlike the paintings of modern
+Europe, their figures are almost uniformly at rest; they exclude passion
+or violent suffering from their design; and the moment which they select
+is not that in which a particular or transient emotion may be
+displayed, but in which the settled character of mind may be expressed.
+With the two exceptions of the Laocoon and the Fighting Gladiator, there
+are none of the statues in the Louvre which are not the representation
+of the human figure in a state of repose; and the expression which the
+finest possess, is invariably that permanent expression which has
+resulted from the habitual frame and character of mind. Their figures
+seem to belong to a higher class of beings than that in which we are
+placed; they indicate a state in which passion, anxiety, and emotion are
+no more; and where the unruffled repose of mind has moulded the features
+into the perfect expression of the mental character. Even the
+countenance of the Venus de Medicis, the most beautiful which it has
+ever entered into the mind of man to conceive, and of which no copy
+gives the slightest idea, bears no trace of emotion, and none of the
+marks of human feeling; it is the settled expression of celestial
+beauty, and even the smile on her lip is not the fleeting smile of
+temporary joy, but the lasting expression of that heavenly feeling which
+sees in all around it the grace and loveliness which belongs to itself
+alone. It approaches nearer to that character which sometimes marks the
+countenance of female beauty; when death has stilled the passions of
+the world; but it is not the cold expression of past character which
+survives the period of mortal dissolution; it is the living expression
+of present existence, radiant with the beams of immortal life, and
+breathing the air of eternal happiness.</p>
+
+<p>The paintings of Raphael convey the most perfect idea of earthly beauty;
+and they denote the expression of all that is finest and most elevated
+in the character of the female mind. But there is a "human meaning in
+their eye," and they bear the marks of that anxiety and tenderness which
+belong to the relations of present existence. The Venus displays the
+same beauty, freed from the cares which existence has produced; and her
+lifeless eye-balls gaze upon the multitude which surround her, as on a
+scene fraught only with the expression of universal joy.</p>
+
+<p>In another view, the Apollo and the Venus appear to have been intended
+by the genius of antiquity, as expressive of the character of mind which
+distinguishes the different sexes; and in the expression of this
+character, they have exhausted all which it is possible for human
+imagination to produce upon the subject. The commanding air, and
+advanced step, of the Apollo, exhibit <i>Man</i> in his noblest aspect, as
+triumphing over the evils of physical nature, and restraining the energy
+of instinctive passion by the high dominion of moral power: the averted
+eyes and retiring grace of the Venus, are expressive of the modesty,
+gentleness, and submission, which form the most beautiful features of
+the <i>female</i> character.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">For valour He, and contemplation, formed,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">For beauty She, and sweet attractive grace,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">He for God only, She for God in Him.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>These words were said of our first parents by our greatest poet, after
+the influence of a pure religion had developed the real nature of the
+female character, and determined the place which woman was to hold in
+the scale of nature; but the idea had been expressed in a still finer
+manner two thousand years before, by the sculptors of antiquity; and
+amidst all the degradation of ancient manners, the prophetic genius of
+Grecian taste contemplated that ideal perfection in the character of the
+sexes, which was destined to form the boundary of human progress in the
+remotest ages of human improvement.</p>
+
+<p>The Apollo strikes a stranger with all its divine grandeur on the first
+aspect; subsequent examination can add nothing to the force of the
+impression which is then received; The Venus produces at first less
+effect, but gains upon the mind at every renewal, till it rivets the
+affections even more than the greatness of its unequalled
+rival&mdash;emblematic of the charm of female excellence, which, if it
+excites less admiration at first than the loftier features of manly
+character, is destined to acquire a deeper influence, and lay the
+foundation of more indelible affection.</p>
+
+<p>The Dying Gladiator is perhaps, after the two which we have mentioned,
+the finest statue which the Louvre contains. The moment chosen is finely
+adapted for that expression of ideal beauty, which may be produced even
+in a subject naturally connected with feelings of pain. It is not the
+moment of energy or struggling, when the frame is convulsed with the
+exertion it is making, or the countenance is deformed by the tumult of
+passion; it is the moment of expiring nature, when the figure is relaxed
+by the weakness of decay, and the mind is softened by the approach of
+death; the moment when the ferocity of combat is forgotten in the
+extinction of the interest which it had excited, when every unsocial
+passion is stilled by the weakness of exhausted nature, and the mind,
+in the last moments of life, is fraught with finer feelings than had
+belonged to the character of previous existence. It is a moment similar
+to that in which Tasso has so beautifully described the change in
+Clorinda's mind, after she had been mortally wounded by the hand of
+Tancred, but in which he was enabled to give her the inspiration of a
+greater faith, and the charity of a more gentle religion:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Amico h'ai vinto: io te perdon. Perdona</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Tu ancora, al corpo no che nulla pave</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">All'alma si: deh per lei prega; e dona</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Battesme a me, ch'ogni mia colpa lave;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">In queste voci languide risuona</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Un non so che di flebile e soave</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ch'al cor gli scende, ed ogni sdegno ammorza,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Egli occhi a lagrimar gl'invoglia e sforza.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The greater statues of antiquity were addressed to the worshippers in
+their temples; they were intended to awaken the devotion of all classes
+of citizens&mdash;to be felt and judged by all mankind. They were intended to
+express characters superior to common nature, and they still express
+them. They are free, therefore, from all the peculiarities of national
+taste; they are purified from all the peculiarities of local
+circumstances; they have been rescued from that inevitable degradation
+to which art is uniformly exposed, by taste being confined to a limited
+society; they have assumed, in consequence, that general character,
+which might suit the universal feelings of our nature, and that
+permanent expression which might speak to the hearts of men through
+every succeeding age. The admiration, accordingly, for those works of
+art, has been undiminished by the lapse of time; they excite the same
+feelings at the present time, as when they came fresh from the hand of
+the Grecian artist, and are regarded by all nations with the same
+veneration on the banks of the Seine, as when they sanctified the
+temples of Athens, or adorned the gardens of Rome.</p>
+
+<p>Even the rudest nations seem to have felt the force of this impression.
+The Hungarians and the Cossacks, as we ourselves have frequently seen,
+during the stay of the allied armies in Paris, ignorant of the name or
+the celebrity of those works of art, seemed yet to take a delight in the
+survey of the statues of antiquity; and in passing through the long line
+of marble greatness which the Louvre presents, stopt involuntarily at
+the sight of the Venus, or clustered round the foot of the pedestal of
+the Apollo;&mdash;indicating thus, in the expression of unaffected feeling,
+the force of that genuine taste for the beauty of nature, which all the
+rudeness of savage manners, and all the ferocity of war, had not been
+able to destroy. The poor Russian soldier, whose knowledge of art was
+limited to the crucifix which he had borne in his bosom from his native
+land, still felt the power of ancient beauty, and in the spirit of the
+Athenians, who erected an altar to the Unknown God, did homage in
+silence to that unknown spirit which had touched a new chord in his
+untutored heart.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">From the impression produced on our minds by the collection in the
+Louvre, we were led to form some general conclusions concerning the
+history and object of the arts of Painting and Sculpture, which we shall
+presume to state, as what suggested themselves to us on the
+contemplation of the greatest assemblage of the works of art which has
+ever been formed; but which we give, at the same time, with the utmost
+diffidence, and merely as the result of our own feelings and
+reflections.</p>
+
+<p>The character of art in every country appears to have been determined by
+the <i>disposition of the people</i> to whom it was addressed, and the
+object of its composition to have varied with the purpose it was called
+on to fulfil.&mdash;The Grecian statues were designed to excite the devotion
+of a cultivated people; to embody their conceptions of divine
+perfection; to realise the expression of that character of mind which
+they imputed to the deities whose temples they were to adorn: It was
+grace, or strength, or majesty, or the benignity of divine power, which
+they were to represent by the figures of Venus, of Hercules, of Jupiter,
+or of Apollo. Their artists accordingly were led to aim at the
+expression of <i>general character</i>; to exclude passion, or emotion, or
+suffering, from their design, and represent the figures in that state of
+repose where the permanent expression of mind ought to be displayed. It
+is perhaps in this circumstance that we are to discern the cause both of
+the peculiarity and the excellence of the Grecian statuary.</p>
+
+<p>The Italian painters were early required to effect a different object.
+Their pictures were destined to represent the sufferings of nature; to
+display the persecution or death of our Saviour, the anguish of the Holy
+Family, the heroism of martyrs, the resignation of devotion. In the
+infancy of the arts, accordingly, they were led to study the expression
+of passion, of suffering, and of temporary emotion; to aim at rousing
+the pity, or exciting the sympathy, of the spectators; and to endeavour
+to characterise their works by the representation of temporary passion,
+not the expression of permanent character. Those beautiful pictures in
+which a different object seems to have been followed&mdash;in which the
+expression is that of permanent emotion, not transient passion, while
+they captivate our admiration, seem to be exceptions from the general
+design, and to have been suggested by the peculiar nature of the subject
+represented, or a particular firmness of mind in the artist. In these
+causes we may perhaps discern the origin of the peculiar character of
+the Italian school.</p>
+
+<p>In the French school, the character and manners of the people seem to
+have carried this peculiarity to a still greater length. Their character
+led them to seek in every thing for stage effect; to admire the most
+extravagant and violent representations, and to value the efforts of
+art, not in proportion to their imitation of the expressions of nature,
+but in proportion to their resemblance to those artificial expressions
+on which their admiration was founded. The vehemence of their manner on
+the most ordinary occasions, rendered the most extravagant gestures
+requisite for the display of real passion; and their drama accordingly
+exhibits a mixture of dignity of sentiment, with violence of gesture,
+beyond measure surprising to a foreign spectator. The same disposition
+of the people has influenced the character of their historical painting;
+and it is to be remembered, that the French school of painting succeeded
+the establishment of the French drama. It is hence that they have
+generally selected the moment of theatrical effect&mdash;the moment of
+phrenzied passion, of unparalleled exertion, and that their composition
+is distinguished by so many striking contrasts, and so laboured a
+display of momentary effect.</p>
+
+<p>The Flemish or Dutch school of painting was neither addressed to the
+devotion nor the theatrical feelings of mankind; it was neither intended
+to awaken the sympathy of religious emotion, nor excite the admiration
+of artificial composition&mdash;it was addressed to wealthy men of vulgar
+capacities, whose taste advanced in no proportion to their riches, and
+who were capable of appreciating only the merit of minute detail, or the
+faithfulness of exact imitation. It is hence that their painting
+possesses excellencies and defects of so peculiar a description; that
+they have carried the minuteness of finishing to so unparalleled a
+degree of perfection; that the brilliancy of their lights has thrown a
+splendour over the vulgarity of their subjects; and that they are in
+general so utterly destitute of all the refinement and sentiment which
+sprung from the devotional feelings of the Italian people.</p>
+
+<p>The subjects which the Dutch painters chose were subjects of low humour,
+calculated to amuse a rich and uncultivated people; the subjects of the
+French school were heroic adventures, suited to the theatrical taste of
+a more elevated society; the subjects of the Italian school were the
+incidents of Sacred History, adapted to the devotional feelings of a
+religious people. In all, the subjects to which painting was applied,
+and the character of the art itself, was determined by the peculiar
+circumstances or disposition of the people to whom it was addressed: so
+that, in these instances, there has really happened what Mr Addison
+stated should ever be the case, that "the taste should not conform to
+the art, but the art to the taste."</p>
+
+<p class="sp">We soon perceived that the statues rivetted our admiration more than any
+of the other works of art which the Louvre presents; and that amongst
+the pictures, those made the deepest impression which approached nearest
+to the character by which the Grecian statuary is distinguished. In the
+prosecution of this train of thought, we were led to the following
+conclusions, relative to the separate objects to which painting and
+statuary should be applied.</p>
+
+<p>1. That the object of Statuary should ever be the same to which it was
+always confined by the ancients, viz. the representation of <span class="smcap">CHARACTER</span>.
+The very materials on which the sculptor has to operate, render his art
+unfit for the expression either of emotion or passion; and the figure,
+when finished, can bear none of the marks by which they are to be
+distinguished. It is a figure of cold, and pale, and lifeless marble,
+without the varied colour which emotion produces, or the living eye
+which passion animates. The eye is the feature which is expressive of
+present emotion; it is it which varies with all the changes which the
+mind undergoes; it is it which marks the difference between joy and
+sorrow, between love and hatred, between pleasure and pain, between life
+and death. But the eye, with all the endless expressions which it bears,
+is lost to the sculptor; its gaze must ever be cold and lifeless to him;
+its fire is quenched in the stillness of the tomb. A statue, therefore,
+can never be expressive of living emotion; it can never express those
+transient feelings which mark the play of the living mind. It is an
+abstraction of character which has no relation to common existence; a
+shadow in which all the permanent features of the mind are expressed,
+but none of the temporary passions of the mind are shewn; like the
+figures of snow, which the magic of Okba formed to charm the solitude of
+Leila's dwelling, it bears the character of the human form, but melts at
+the warmth of human feeling. The power of the sculptor is limited to the
+delineation of those signs alone by which the permanent qualities of
+mind are displayed: his art, therefore, should be confined to the
+representation of that permanent character of which they are expressive.</p>
+
+<p>2. While such is the object to which statuary would appear to be
+destined, Painting embraces a wider range, and is capable of more varied
+expression: It is expressive of the living form; it paints the eye and
+opens the view of the present mind; it imitates all the fleeting changes
+which constitute the signs of present emotion. It is not, therefore, an
+abstraction of character which the painter is to represent; not an ideal
+form, expressive only of the qualities of permanent character; but an
+actual being, alive to the impressions of present existence, and bound
+by the ties of present affection. It is in the delineation of these
+affections, therefore, that the powers of the painter principally
+consists; in the representation, not of simple character, but of
+character influenced or subdued by emotion. It is the representation of
+the joy of youth, or the repose of age; of the sorrow of innocence, or
+the penitence of guilt; of the tenderness of parental affection, or the
+gratitude of filial love. In these, and a thousand other instances, the
+expression of the emotion constitutes the beauty of the picture; it is
+that which gives the tone to the character which it is to bear; it is
+that which strikes the chord which vibrates in every human heart. The
+object of the painter, therefore, is the expression of <span class="smcap">EMOTION</span>, of that
+emotion which is blended with the character of the mind which feels, and
+gives to that character the interest which belongs to the events of
+present existence.</p>
+
+<p>3. The object of the painter, being the representation of emotion in all
+the varied situations which life produces, it follows, that every thing
+in his picture should be in unison with the predominant expression which
+he wishes it to bear; that the composition should be as simple as is
+consistent with the developement of this expression; and the colouring
+such as accords with the character by which this emotion is
+distinguished. It is here that the genius of the artist is principally
+to be displayed, in the selection of such figures as suit the general
+impression which the whole is to produce; and the choice of such a tone
+of colouring, as harmonises with the feelings of mind which it is his
+object to awaken. The distraction of varied colours&mdash;the confusion of
+different figures&mdash;the contrast of opposite expressions, completely
+destroy the effect of the composition; they fix the mind to the
+observation of what is particular in the separate parts, and prevent
+that uniform and general emotion which arises from the perception of one
+uniform expression in all the parts of which it is composed. It is in
+this very perception, however, that the source of the beauty is to be
+found; it is in the undefined feeling to which it gives rise, that the
+delight of the emotion of taste consists. Like the harmony of sounds in
+musical composition, it produces an effect of which we are unable to
+give an account; but which we feel to be instantly destroyed by the
+jarring sound of a different note, or the discordant effect of a foreign
+expression. It is in the neglect of this great principle that the defect
+of many of the first pictures of modern times is to be found&mdash;in the
+confused multitude of unnecessary figures&mdash;in the contradictory
+expression of separate parts&mdash;in the distracting brilliancy of gorgeous
+colours; in the laboured display, in short, of the power of the artist,
+and the utter dereliction of the object of the art. The great secret, on
+the other hand, of the beauty of the most exquisite specimens of modern
+art, lies in the simplicity of expression which they bear, in their
+production of one uniform emotion, from all the parts of one harmonious
+composition. For the production of this unity of emotion, the surest
+means will be found to consist in the selection of <i>as few figures</i> as
+is consistent with the developement of the characteristic expression of
+the composition; and it is, perhaps, to this circumstance, that we are
+to impute the unequalled charm which belongs to the pictures of single
+figures, or small groups, in which a single expression is alone
+attempted.</p>
+
+<p>4. The last principle of the art appeared to be, that both painting and
+sculpture are wholly unfit for the representation of <span class="smcap">PASSION</span>, as
+expressed by motion; and that, to attempt to delineate it, necessarily
+injures the effect of the composition. Neither, it is clear, can express
+actual motion: they should not attempt, therefore, to represent those
+passions of the mind which motion alone is adequate to express. The
+attempt to delineate violent passion, accordingly, uniformly produces a
+painful or a ridiculous effect; it does not even convey any conception
+of the passion itself, because its character is not known by the
+expression of any single moment, but by the rapid changes which result
+from the perturbed state into which the mind is thrown. It is hence that
+passion seems so ridiculous when seen at a distance, or without the
+cause of its existence being known, and it is hence, that if a human
+figure were petrified in any of the stages of passion, it would have so
+painful or insane an appearance.&mdash;As painting, therefore, cannot exhibit
+the rapid changes in which the real expression of passion consists, it
+should not attempt its delineation at all. Its real object is, the
+expression of <i>emotion</i>, of that more settled state of the human mind
+when the changes of passion are gone&mdash;when the countenance is moulded
+into the expression of permanent feeling, and the existence of this
+feeling is marked by the permanent expression which the features have
+assumed.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest artists of ancient and modern times, accordingly, have
+selected, even in the representation of violent exertion, that moment of
+temporary repose, when a permanent expression is given to the figure.
+Even the Laocoon is not in the state of actual exertion: it is
+represented in that moment when the last effort has been made; when
+straining against an invincible power has given to the figure the aspect
+at last of momentary repose; and when despair has placed its settled
+mark on the expression of the countenance. The Fighting Gladiator is not
+represented in a state of actual activity, but in that moment when he is
+preparing his mind for the future and final contest, and when, in this
+deep concentration of his powers, the pause which the genius of the
+artist has given, expresses more distinctly to the eye of the spectator
+the determined character of the combatant, than all that the struggle or
+agony of the combat itself could afterwards display.</p>
+
+<p>The Grecian statues which were assembled in the Louvre may be considered
+as the most perfect works of human genius; and after surveying the
+different schools of painting which it contains, we could not but feel
+those higher conceptions of human form, and of human nature, which the
+taste of ancient statuary had formed. It is not in the moment of action
+that it has represented man, but in the moment after action, when the
+tumult of passion has ceased, and all that is great or dignified in
+moral nature remains; and the greatest works of modern art are those
+which approach nearest to the same principle. It is not Hercules in the
+moment of earthly combat, when every muscle was swollen with the
+strength he was exerting, that they represent; but Hercules in the
+moment of transformation into a nobler being, when the exertion of
+mortality has passed, and his powers seem to repose in the tranquillity
+of Heaven: not Apollo, when straining his youthful strength in drawing
+the bow; but Apollo, when the weapon was discharged, watching, with
+unexulting eye, its resistless course, and serene in the enjoyment of
+immortal power: not St Michael when struggling with the Demon, and
+marring the beauty of angelic form by the violence of earthly passion,
+but St Michael in the moment of unruffled triumph, restraining the might
+of Almighty power, and radiant with the beams of eternal mercy.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;THE FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">W</span><span class="smcap">e</span>
+do not by any means consider ourselves as qualified to enter fully
+into the interesting subject of the national character of the French;
+but we shall venture to state, in this place, what appeared to us its
+most striking peculiarities, particularly as it is observed at Paris.
+Our stay in the capital was too short, and our opportunities of
+observation too limited, to entitle us to speak with confidence; but it
+is to be remembered on the other hand, that there is a surprising
+uniformity of character among the French, which facilitates observation.
+The habit of constant intercourse in society, which constitutes their
+greatest pleasure, and has made them, in their own opinion, the most
+polished nation on earth, appears not merely to have assimilated their
+manners to one another, in the manner so finely illustrated by the
+celebrated simile of Sterne<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, but to have engendered a kind of
+conventional standard character, by which all those we observe are more
+or less modelled.</p>
+
+<p>The most striking and formidable part of their general character is, the
+<i>contempt for religion</i> which is so frequently and openly expressed. In
+all countries there are men of a selfish and abstracted turn of mind,
+who are more disposed than others to religious argument and doubt; and
+in all, there are a greater number, whose worldly passions lead them to
+the neglect, or hurry them on to the violation of religious precepts;
+but a great nation, among whom a cool selfish regard to personal comfort
+and enjoyment has been deliberately substituted for religious feeling,
+and where it is generally esteemed reasonable and wise to oppose and
+wrestle down, by metaphysical arguments, the natural and becoming
+sentiments of piety, as they arise in the human breast, is hitherto, and
+it is to be hoped will long continue, an anomaly in the history of
+mankind.</p>
+
+<p>We heard it estimated at Paris, that 40,000 out of 600,000 inhabitants
+of that town attend church; one half of which number, they say, are
+actuated in so doing by real sentiments of devotion; but to judge from
+the very small numbers whom we have ever seen attending the regular
+service in any of the churches, we should think this proportion greatly
+overrated. Of those whom we have seen there, at least two-thirds have
+been women above fifty, or girls under fifteen years of age. In all
+Catholic countries, Sunday is a day of amusement and festivity, as well
+as of religion&mdash;but it is generally, also, one of relaxation from
+business: in Paris, we could see very little signs of the latter in the
+forenoons, but the amusements and dissipation of the capital were
+visibly increased in the evenings; and the Parisians have some reason
+for their remark, that their day of rest is changed to Monday, when the
+effect of their last night's dissipation wholly incapacitates them for
+exertion.</p>
+
+<p>It is clear, that it is quite absurd to attempt altering the manner of
+spending the Sundays at Paris, while the sentiments of the people, in
+regard to religion, continue such as at present; but it must be
+admitted, on the other hand, that their habits, as to the way of
+spending Sundays, re-act powerfully on their sentiments; and that the
+minds of the lower orders, in particular, are much debased by the want
+of what have been emphatically called "these precious breathing times
+for the labouring part of the community."</p>
+
+<p>Frenchmen of the higher ranks seem, at present, generally disposed to
+wave the subject of religion; but those of the middling ranks, by whom
+the business of the country is mainly carried on, do not scruple to
+express their contempt of it;&mdash;they applaud with enthusiasm all
+irreligious sentiments in the theatres, and seldom mention priests, of
+any persuasion, without the epithet of <i>sacrès</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We were informed in Holland, that the Frenchmen who were sent to that
+country in official capacities, military or civil, manifested on all
+occasions the utmost contempt for religion. A French General, quartered
+in the house of a respectable gentleman in Amsterdam, inquired the
+reason, the first Sunday that he was there, of the family going out in
+their best clothes; and being told they were going to church, he
+expressed his surprise, saying,&mdash;"Now that you are a part of the great
+nation, it is time for you to have done with that nonsense."</p>
+
+<p>To an Englishman, who has been accustomed to see the ordinances of
+religion regularly observed by the great majority of his countrymen, the
+neglect of them by the French people appears very singular, and even
+unnatural. When we afterwards visited Flanders, and observed the
+manifest respect of the people for religion&mdash;when when saw the
+numberless handsome churches in the villages, and the frequent religious
+processions in the streets of the towns&mdash;when we entered the Great
+Cathedral at Antwerp, and found vast numbers of people, of both sexes,
+and all ranks and ages, on their knees, engaged, with the appearance of
+sincere devotion, in the solemn and striking service of vespers, we
+could not help saying among ourselves, that this people, for better
+reasons than mere political convenience, deserved to be separated from
+the French.</p>
+
+<p>Yet, we do not mean to say that the French are wholly, or even generally
+devoid of religious feeling; on the contrary, we believe it may often be
+seen to break out in a very striking manner, even in the conversation of
+those who are accustomed to think it wise to express contempt for it. A
+Frenchman, full of enthusiasm about the glory of his country, who was
+talking to us of the deeds and sufferings of the French army in Russia,
+concluded his description of the latter with these emphatic words: "Ah!
+Monsieur, Ce n'est pas les Russes; C'est <i>le bon Dieu</i> qui a fait cela."</p>
+
+<p class="sp">In point of <i>intellectual ability</i>, the French are certainly inferior to
+no other nation. They have not, perhaps, so frequently as others, that
+cool, sound judgment in matters of speculation, which can fit them for
+unravelling with success the perplexities of metaphysics; but their
+unparalleled success in mathematical pursuits is the best possible proof
+of the accuracy and quickness of their reasoning powers, when confined
+within due bounds. We do not refer to the astonishing efforts of such
+men as d'Alembert or La Place, but to the general diffusion of
+mathematical knowledge among all who receive a scientific education. It
+is not, perhaps, going too far to say, that few professors in Britain
+have an equally accurate and extensive knowledge of the integral and
+differential calculus, with some lads of 17 or 18, who have completed
+their education at the Ecole Polytechnique. Unless a man makes
+discoveries of his own in mathematics, he is little thought of as a
+mathematician by the men of science at Paris, even although he may be
+intimately versed in all the branches of that science as it stands.</p>
+
+<p>Under the Imperial Government, it was not considered safe to cultivate
+any sciences which relate to politics or morals; but the advancement of
+the physical and mathematical sciences in France during that time,
+sufficiently indicates that there has been no want of talents or
+industry.</p>
+
+<p>It may be remarked as a striking characteristic of the French scientific
+works, that they are almost always well arranged, and the meaning of the
+author fully and unequivocally expressed. A Frenchman does not always
+take a comprehensive view of his subject, but he seldom fails to take a
+clear view of it. The same turn of mind may be observed in the
+conversation of Frenchmen; even when their information is defective,
+they will very generally arrest attention by the apparent order and
+perspicuity of their thoughts; and they never seem to know what it is to
+be at a loss for words.</p>
+
+<p>Considering the great ingenuity and ability of the French, it seems not
+a little surprising that they should be so much behind our countrymen in
+useful and profitable arts, and that Englishmen should be so much struck
+with the apparent poverty of the greater part of France. This is in a
+great measure owing, no doubt, to the policy of the late French
+Government, which has directed all the energies of the nation towards
+military affairs; and to the abuses of the former government: but we
+think it must be ascribed in part to the character of the people. There
+is not the same co-operation of different individuals to one end, of
+private advantage and public usefulness; the same division of labour,
+intellectual as well as operative; the same hearty confidence between
+man and man, in France as in England. Men of talents in France are, in
+general, too much tainted with the national vanity, and too much
+occupied with their own fame, to join heartily in promoting the public
+interest. Individual intelligence, activity, and ingenuity, go but
+little way in making a nation wealthy and prosperous, if they are made
+to minister only to the individual pleasures and <i>glory</i> of their
+possessors.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The <i>patriotism</i> of the French is certainly a very strong feeling, but
+it appears to be much tainted with the same vanity and love of shew that
+we have just remarked. There can be no doubt, that during the time of
+Bonaparte's successes, he commanded, in a degree that no other Sovereign
+ever did, the admiration and respect of the great body of the people;
+and it is equally certain, that he did this without interesting himself
+at all in their happiness. His hold of them was by their national vanity
+alone. They assent to all that can be said of the miseries which he
+brought upon France; but add, "Mais il a battu tout le monde; il a fait
+des choses superbes a Paris; il a flattè notre orgeuil national. Ah!
+C'est un grand homme. Notre pays n'a jamais etè si grand ni si puissant
+que sous lui." The condition of the inhabitants of distant provinces was
+nowise improved by his public buildings and decorations at their
+capital; but every Frenchman considers a compliment to Paris, to the
+Louvre, to the Palais Royal, or the Opera, as a personal compliment to
+himself.</p>
+
+<p>At this moment, it is certainly a very general wish in France, to have
+a sovereign, who, as they express it, has grown out of the revolution;
+but when we enquire into their reason for this, it will often be found,
+we believe, to resolve itself into their national vanity. It is not that
+they think the Bourbons will break their word, or that the present
+Constitution will be altered without their consent; but after five and
+twenty years of confusion and bloodshed, they cannot bear the thoughts
+of leaving off where they began; and they think, that taking back their
+old dynasty without alteration, is practically acknowledging that they
+have been in the wrong all the time of their absence. We have often
+remarked (but we presume the remark is applicable to all despotic
+countries) that the French political conversation, such as is heard at
+caffés and tables d'hôte, relates more to men, and less to measures, and
+appears to be more guided by personal attachments or antipathies, than
+that to which we are accustomed in England.</p>
+
+<p>The character that appears to be most wanted in France, is that of
+disinterested public-spirited individuals, of high honour and integrity,
+and of large possessions and influence, who do not interfere in public
+affairs from views of ambition, but from a sense of duty&mdash;who have no
+wish to dazzle the eyes of the multitude, and do not seek for a more
+extensive influence than that to which their observation and experience
+entitle them. While this character continues so much more frequent in
+our own country than among the French, it is perhaps in military affairs
+only that we need entertain any fear of their superiority. Englishmen of
+power and influence, generally speaking, have really at heart the <i>good</i>
+of their country, whereas Frenchmen, in similar situations, are chiefly
+interested in the <i>glory</i> of theirs.</p>
+
+<p>It must also be observed, that public affairs occupy much less of the
+attention, and interfere much less with the happiness, of the majority
+of the French than of the English. There is less anxiety about public
+measures, and less gratitude for public services. We were often
+surprised at the indifference of the citizens of Paris with regard to
+their Marshals, whom they seldom knew by name, and did not seem to care
+for knowing. The peroration of an old lady, who had delivered a long
+speech to a friend of ours, then a prisoner at Verdun, lamenting the
+reverses of the French arms, and the miseries of France, was
+characteristic of the nation: "Mais, ce m'est egal. Je suis toujours ici."</p>
+
+<p>It is quite unnecessary for us to give proofs of the laxity of <i>moral
+principle</i> which prevails so generally among the French. The world has
+not now to learn, that notwithstanding their high professions, they have
+but little regard either for truth or morality. According to Mr Scott,
+"they have, in a great measure, detached words from ideas and feelings;
+they can, therefore, afford to be unusually profuse of the better sort
+of the first; and they experience as much internal satisfaction and
+pride when they profess a virtue, as if they had practised one." Perhaps
+it would be more correct to say, that they have detached ideas and
+feelings from their corresponding actions. Their feelings have always
+been too violent for the moment, and too short in their duration, to
+influence their conduct steadily and permanently; but at present, they
+seem much disposed to think, that it is quite enough to have the
+feelings, and that there is no occasion for their conduct being
+influenced by them at all.</p>
+
+<p>They appear to have a strong natural sense of the beauty and excellence
+of virtue; but they are accustomed to regard it merely as a sense. It
+does not regulate their conduct to others, but adds to their own selfish
+enjoyments. They speak of virtue almost uniformly, not as an object of
+rational approbation and imitation, and still less as a rule of moral
+obligation, but as a matter of <i>feeling and taste</i>. A French officer,
+who describes to you, in the liveliest manner, and with all the
+appearance of unfeigned sympathy, the miseries and devastations
+occasioned by his countrymen among the unoffending inhabitants of
+foreign states, proceeds, in the same breath, to declaim with
+enthusiastic admiration on the untarnished honour of the French arms,
+and the great mind of the Emperor. A Parisian tradesman, who goes to the
+theatre that he may see the representation of integrity of conduct,
+conjugal affection, and domestic happiness, and applauds with enthusiasm
+when he sees it, shews no symptoms of shame when detected in a barefaced
+attempt to cheat his customers; spends his spare money in the Palais
+Royal, and sells his wife or daughter to the highest bidder.</p>
+
+<p>"Among the French," says the intelligent and judicious author of the
+Caractere des Armées Europeennes, "the seat of the passions is in the
+head&mdash;they feel rather from the fancy than the heart&mdash;their feelings are
+nothing more than thoughts."</p>
+
+<p>Another striking feature of the French character, connected with the
+preceding, is the openness, and even eagerness, with which they
+communicate all their thoughts and feelings to each other, and even to
+strangers. All Frenchmen seem anxious to make the most in conversation,
+not only of whatever intellectual ability they possess, but of whatever
+moral feelings they experience on any occasion;&mdash;they do not seem to
+understand why a man should ever be either ashamed or unwilling to
+disclose any thing that passes in his mind;&mdash;they often suspect their
+neighbours of expressing sentiments which they do not feel, but have no
+idea of giving them credit for feelings which they do not express.</p>
+
+<p>The French have many <i>good qualities</i>; they are very generally obliging
+to strangers, they are sober and good-tempered, and little disposed, in
+the ordinary concerns of life, to quarrel among themselves, and they
+have an amiable cheerfulness of disposition, which supports them in
+difficulties and adversity, better than the resolutions of philosophy.
+But it is clear that they have very little esteem for the most estimable
+of all characters, that of firm and enduring virtue; and in fact, it is
+not going too far to say, that a certain <i>propriety of external
+demeanour</i> has completely taken the place of correctness of moral
+conduct among them. They speak almost uniformly with much abhorrence of
+drunkenness, and of all violations of the established forms of society;
+and such improprieties are very seldom to be seen among them. Many
+Frenchmen, as was already observed, are rough and even ferocious in
+their manners; and the language and behaviour of most of them,
+particularly in the presence of women, appears to us very frequently
+indelicate and rude; yet there are limits to this freedom of manner
+which they never allow themselves to pass. Go where you will in Paris,
+you will very seldom see any disgusting instances of intoxication, or
+any material difference of manner, between those who are avowedly
+unprincipled and abandoned, and the most respectable part of the
+community. In the caffés, which correspond not only to the
+coffee-houses, but to the taverns of London, you will see modest women,
+at all hours of the day, often alone, sitting in the midst of the men.
+In the Palais Royal, at no hour of the night do you witness scenes of
+gross indecency or riot.</p>
+
+<p>To an Englishman, it often serves as an excuse for vicious indulgences,
+that he is led off his feet by temptation. To a Frenchman, this excuse
+is the only crime; he stands in no need of an apology for vice; but it
+is necessary "qu'il se menage:" he is taught "qu'un pechè cachè est la
+moitie pardonnè;" he must on no account allow, that any temptation can
+make him lose his recollection or presence of mind.</p>
+
+<p>We ought perhaps to admit likewise, that some of the vices common among
+the French are not merely less foul and disgusting in appearance, but
+less odious in their own nature, than those of our countrymen. We do not
+say this in palliation of their conduct. It is rather to be considered
+as a benevolent provision of nature, that in proportion as vice is more
+generally diffused, its influence on individual character is less fatal.
+This remark applies particularly to the case of women. A woman in
+England, who loses one virtue, knows that she outrages the opinion of
+mankind; she disobeys the precepts of her religion, and estranges
+herself from the examples which she has been taught to revere; she
+becomes an outcast of society; and if she has not already lost, must
+soon lose all the best qualities of the female character. But a French
+woman, in giving way to unlawful love, knows that she does no more than
+her mother did before her; if she is of the lower ranks, she is not
+necessarily debarred from honest occupation; if of the higher, she loses
+little or nothing in the estimation of society; if she has been taught
+to revere any religion, it is the Catholic, and she may look to
+absolution. Her conduct, therefore, neither implies her having lost, nor
+necessarily occasions her losing, any virtue but one; and during the
+course of the revolution, we have understood there have been many
+examples, proving, in the most trying circumstances, that not even the
+worst corruptions of Paris had destroyed some of the finest virtues
+which can adorn the sex. "Elles ont toujours des bons c&#339;urs," is a
+common expression in France, in speaking even of the lowest and most
+degraded of the sex. In Paris, it is certainly much more difficult than
+in London to find examples in any rank of the unsullied purity of the
+female character; but neither is it commonly seen so utterly perverted
+and degraded; one has not occasion to witness so frequently the painful
+spectacle of youth and beauty brought by one rash step to shame and
+misery; and to lament, that the fairest gifts of heaven should become
+the bitterest of curses to so many of their possessors.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">Having mentioned the French women, we think we may remark, without
+hazarding our character as impartial observers, that most of the faults
+which are so well known to prevail among them, may be easily traced to
+the manner in which they are treated by the other sex. It is a very
+common boast in France, that there is no other country in which women
+are treated with so much respect; and you can hardly gratify any
+Frenchman so much, as by calling France "le paradis des femmes." Yet,
+from all that we could observe ourselves, or learn from others, there
+appears to be no one of the boasts of Frenchmen which is in reality less
+reasonable. They exclude women from society almost entirely in their
+early years; they seldom allow them any vote in the choice of their
+husbands: After they have brought them into society, they seem to think
+that they confer a high favour on them, by giving them a great deal of
+their company, and paying them a great deal of attention, and
+encouraging them to separate themselves from the society of their
+husbands. In return for these obligations, they often oblige them to
+listen to conversation, which, heard as it is, from those for whom they
+have most respect, cannot fail to corrupt their minds as well as their
+manners; and they take care to let them see that they value them for the
+qualities which render them agreeable companions for the moment; not for
+the usefulness of their lives, for the purity of their conduct, or the
+constancy of their affections. Surely the respect with which all women
+who conduct themselves with propriety are treated in England, merely on
+account of their sex; the delicacy and reserve with which in their
+presence conversation is uniformly conducted by all who call themselves
+gentlemen, are more honourable tokens of regard for the virtues of the
+female character, than the unmeaning ceremonies and officious attentions
+of the French.</p>
+
+<p>The female inhabitants of our own country are distinguished of those of
+France, and probably of every other country, by a certain native,
+self-respecting, dignity of appearance and manner, which claims respect
+and attention as a right, rather than solicits them as a boon; and gives
+you to understand, that the man who does not give them is disgraced,
+rather than the woman who does not receive them. We believe it to be
+owing to the influence of the causes we have noticed, that this manner,
+so often ridiculed by the French, under the name of "hauteur" and
+"fiertè Anglaise," is hardly ever to be seen among women of any rank in
+France. And to a similar influence of the tastes and sentiments of our
+own sex, it is easy to refer the more serious faults of the female
+character in that country.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, the better parts of the character of the French women
+are all their own. It is not certainly from the men that they have
+learnt those truly feminine qualities, that interesting humility and
+gentleness of manner, that pleasing gaiety of temper, and native
+kindness of disposition, to which it is very difficult, even for the
+proverbial coldness of northern critics, to apply terms of ridicule or
+reproach.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">It is not easy for a stranger, in forming his opinion of the moral
+character of a people, to make allowance for the modification which
+moral sentiments undergo, in consequence of long habits, and
+adventitious circumstances. There is no quality which strikes a stranger
+more forcibly, in the character of the French of the middling and lower
+ranks, than their seeming dishonesty, particularly their uniformly
+endeavouring to extract more money for their goods or their services
+than they know to be their value. But we think too much stress has been
+laid on this part of their character by some travellers. It is regarded
+in France as a sort of professional accomplishment, without which it is
+in vain to attempt exercising a trade; and it is hardly thought to
+indicate immorality of any kind, more than the obviously false
+expressions which are used in the ordinary intercourse of society in
+England, or the license of denying oneself to visitors. That it should
+be so regarded is no doubt a proof of <i>national</i> inferiority, and
+perhaps immorality; but while the general sentiments of the nation
+continue as at present, an instance of this kind cannot be considered as
+a proof of <i>individual</i> baseness. An Englishman is apt to pronounce
+every man a scoundrel, who, in making a bargain, attempts to take him
+in; but he will often find, on a closer and more impartial examination,
+that the judgment formed by this circumstance alone in France, is quite
+erroneous. One of our party entered a small shop in the Palais Royal to
+buy a travelling cap. The woman who attended in it, with perfect
+effrontery, asked 16 francs for one which was certainly not worth more
+than six, and which she at last gave him for seven. Being in a hurry at
+the time, he inadvertently left on the counter a purse containing 20
+gold pieces of 20 francs each. He did not miss it for more than an hour:
+on returning to the shop, he found the old lady gone, and concluded at
+first, that she had absented herself to avoid interrogation; but to his
+surprise, he was accosted immediately on entering, by a pretty young
+girl, who had come in her place, with the sweetest smile
+imaginable,&mdash;"Monsieur, a oubliè sa bourse&mdash;que nous sommes heureuses de
+la lui rendre."</p>
+
+<p class="sp">It is certainly incorrect to say, that the <i>taste</i> of the French is
+decidedly superior to that of other nations. Their poetry, on the whole,
+will not bear a comparison with the English; their modern music is not
+nearly so beautiful as their ancient songs, which have now descended to
+the lower ranks; their painting is in a peculiar and not pleasing style;
+their taste in gardening is antiquated and artificial; their
+architecture is only fine where it is modelled on the ancient; their
+theatrical tastes, if they are more correct than ours, are also more
+limited. We have already taken occasion more than once to reprobate the
+general taste of the French, as being partial to art, and brilliant
+execution, rather than to simplicity and beautiful design.</p>
+
+<p>But what distinguishes the French from almost every other nation, is the
+<i>general diffusion</i> of the taste for the fine arts, and for elegant
+amusements, among all ranks of the people. Almost all Frenchmen take not
+only a pride, but an interest, in the public buildings of Paris, and in
+the collections of paintings and statues. There is a very general liking
+for poetry and works of imagination among the middling and lower ranks;
+they go to the theatres, not merely for relaxation and amusement, but
+with a serious intention of cultivating their taste, and displaying
+their critical powers. Many of them are so much in the habit of
+attending the theatres when favourite plays are acted, that they know
+almost every word of the principal scenes by heart. All their favourite
+amusements are in some measure of a refined kind. It is not in drinking
+clubs, or in sensual gratifications alone, that men of these ranks seek
+for relaxation, as its too often the case with us; but it is in the
+society of women, in conversation, in music and dancing, in theatres and
+operas, and caffés and promenades, in seeing and being seen; in short,
+in scenes resembling, as nearly as possible, those in which the higher
+ranks of all nations spend their leisure hours.</p>
+
+<p>While the useful arts are comparatively little advanced, those which
+relate to ornaments alone are very generally superior to ours; and the
+persons who profess these arts speak of them with a degree of fervour
+that often seems ludicrous. "Monsieur," says a peruquier in the Palais
+Royal, with the look of a man who lets you into a profound secret in
+science, "Notre art est un art imitatif; en effèt, c'est un des beaux
+arts;" then taking up a London-made wig, and twirling it round on his
+finger, with a look of ineffable contempt, "Celui ci n'est pas la belle
+nature; mais voici la mienne,&mdash;c'est la nature personifiée!"</p>
+
+<p>One of the best proofs of the tastes of the lower ranks being, at least
+in part, cultivated and refined, is to be found in the songs which are
+common among the peasantry and soldiers. There are a great number of
+these, and some of them, in point of beauty of sentiment, and elegance
+of expression, might challenge a comparison even with the admired
+productions of our own land of song. The following is part of a song
+which was written in April 1814, and set to the beautiful air of Charles
+VII. It was popular among the description of persons to whom it relates;
+and the young man from whom we got it had himself returned home, after
+serving as a private in the young guard.</p>
+
+
+<p class="poem"><br />
+LE RETOUR DE L'AMANT FRANCAIS.<br /><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">De bon c&#339;ur je pose les armes;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Adieu le tumulte des camps,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">L'amitiè m'offre d'autres charmes,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Au sein de mes joyeux parents;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Le Dieu des Amants me rapelle,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">C'est pour m'enroler à son tour;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et je vais aupres de ma belle,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Servir sous les lois de l'amour.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Aux noms d'honneur et de patrie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">On m'a vu braver le trepas;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Aujourd'hui pour charmer ma vie</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">La paix fait cesser les combats.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Le Dieu des Amants, &amp;c.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>After all that we had heard, and all that is known over the whole world,
+of the unbridled licentiousness and savage ferocity of the French
+soldiers, we were not a little surprised to find, that this and other
+songs written in good taste, and expressing sentiments of a kind of
+chivalrous elevation and refinement, were popular in their ranks.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The last peculiarity in the French character which we shall notice, is
+perhaps the most fundamental of the whole; it is their <i>love of mixed
+society</i>; of the society of those for whom they have no regard, but whom
+they meet on the footing of common acquaintances. This is the favourite
+enjoyment of almost every Frenchman; to shine in such society, is the
+main object of his ambition; his whole life is regulated so as to
+gratify this desire. He is indifferent about comforts at home&mdash;he
+dislikes domestic society&mdash;he hates the retirement of the country; but
+he loves, and is taught to love, to figure in a large circle of
+acquaintance, for whom he has not the least heartfelt friendship, with
+whom he is on no more intimate terms than with perfect strangers, after
+the first half hour. If he has acquired a reputation in science, arts,
+or arms, so much the better; his <i>glory</i> will be of much service to him;
+if not, he must make it up by his conversation.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of the predilection of the French for social intercourse
+of this kind, it is, that knowledge of such kinds, and to such an
+extent, as can be easily introduced into conversation, is very general;
+that the opportunities of such intercourse are carefully multiplied;
+that all arts which can add to the attractions of such scenes are
+assiduously improved; that liveliness of disposition is prized beyond
+all other qualities, while those eccentricities of manner, which seem to
+form a component part of what we call humorous characters, are excluded;
+that even childish amusements are preferred to solitary occupations;
+that taste is cultivated more than morality, wit esteemed more than
+wisdom, and vanity encouraged more than merit.</p>
+
+<p>It is easy to trace the pernicious effects of a taste for society of
+this kind, on individual character, when it is encouraged to such a
+degree as to become a serious occupation, instead of a relaxation to the
+mind. When the main object of a man's life is distinction among his
+acquaintances, from his wit&mdash;his liveliness&mdash;his elegance of taste&mdash;his
+powers of conversation&mdash;or even from the fame he may have earned by his
+talents; he becomes careless about the love of those with whom he is on
+more intimate terms, and who do not value him exclusively, or even
+chiefly, for such qualities. His domestic affections are weakened; he
+lives for himself and enjoys the present moment without either
+reflection or foresight; with the outward appearance of an open friendly
+disposition, he becomes, in reality, selfish and interested; that he may
+secure general sympathy from indifferent spectators, he is under the
+necessity of repressing all strong emotions, and expressions of ardent
+feeling, and of confining himself to a worldly and common-place
+morality; he learns to value his moral feelings, as well as his
+intellectual powers, chiefly for the sake of the display which he can
+make of them in society; and to reprobate vice, rather on account of its
+outward deformity, than of its intrinsic guilt; gradually he becomes
+impatient of restraints on the pleasure which he derives from social
+intercourse; and the religious and moral principles of his nature are
+sacrificed to the visionary idol to which his love of pleasure and his
+love of <i>glory</i> have devoted him.</p>
+
+<p>Such appears to be the state of the minds of most Parisians. They have
+been so much accustomed to pride themselves on the outward appearance of
+their actions, that they have become regardless of their intrinsic
+merits; they have lived so long for <i>effect</i>, that they have forgotten
+that there is any other principle by which their lives can be regulated.</p>
+
+<p>Of the devotion of the French to the sort of life to which we refer, the
+best possible proof is, their fondness for a town life; the small number
+of chateaux in the country that are inhabited&mdash;and the still more
+remarkable scarcity of villas in the neighbourhood of Paris, to which
+men of business may retire. There are a few houses of this description
+about Belleville and near Malmaison; but in general, you pass from the
+noisy and dirty Fauxbourgs at once into the solitude of the country; and
+it is quite obvious, that you have left behind you all the scenes in
+which the Parisians find enjoyment. The contrast in the neighbourhood of
+London, is most striking. It is easy to laugh at the dulness and
+vulgarity of a London citizen, who divides his time between his
+counting-house and his villa, or at the coarseness and rusticity of an
+English country squire; but there is no description of men to whom the
+national character of our country is more deeply indebted.</p>
+
+<p>It seems no difficult matter to ascribe most of the differences which we
+observe between the English and French character to the differences in
+the habits of the people, occasioned by form of government and various
+assignable causes: and the French character, in particular, has very
+much the appearance of being moulded by the artificial form of society
+which prevails among the people. Yet, it is not easy to reconcile such
+explanations with the instances we can often observe, of difference of
+national character manifested under circumstances, or at an age, when
+the causes assigned can hardly have operated. The peculiarities which
+appear to us most artificial in the Parisian character and manners, may
+often be seen in full perfection in very young children. Every little
+French girl, almost from the time when she begins to speak, seems to
+place her chief delight in attracting the regard of the other sex,
+rather than in playing with her female companions. "In England," says
+Chateaubriand, "girls are sent to school in their earliest years: you
+sometimes see groups of these little ones, dressed in white mantles,
+with straw hats tied under the chin with a ribband, and a basket on the
+arm, containing fruit and a book&mdash;all with downcast eyes, blushing when
+looked at. When I have seen," he continues, "our French female children,
+dressed in their antiquated fashion, lifting up the trains of their
+gowns, looking at every one they meet with effrontery, singing love-sick
+airs, and taking lessons in declamation; I have thought with regret, of
+the simplicity and modesty of the little English girls."</p>
+
+<p>It is the opinion of some naturalists, that the acquired habits, as well
+as the natural instincts of animals, are transmitted to their progeny;
+and in comparing the causes commonly assigned, and plausibly supported,
+for the peculiarities of national character, with the very early age at
+which these peculiarities shew themselves, one is almost tempted to
+believe, that something of the same kind may take place in the human
+species.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">In what has now been said, no reference has been made to the influence
+of the revolution on the parts of the French character on which we have
+touched. On this point we have of course, the means of judging with
+precision; but most of the peculiarities which appeared to us most
+striking certainly existed before the revolution, and we should be
+disposed to doubt whether the leading features are materially altered.
+The influence of the writings of the French philosophers on the
+religious and moral principles of their countrymen, has certainly been
+very great, and has been probably strengthened, rather than weakened, by
+the events of the last twenty-five years.</p>
+
+<p>The general diffusion of a military spirit; the unprincipled manner in
+which war has been conducted, and the encouragement which has been given
+to martial qualities, to the exclusion of all pacific virtues, have
+promoted the growth of the French military vices, particularly
+selfishness and licentiousness, among all ranks and descriptions of the
+people, and materially injured their general character, even in the
+remotest parts of the country. During the revolution, and under the
+Imperial Government, men have owed their success, in France, almost
+exclusively to the influence of their intellectual abilities, without
+any assistance from their moral character; in consequence, the contempt
+for religion is more generally diffused, and more openly expressed than
+it was; and although loud protestations of inviolable honour are still
+necessary, integrity of conduct is much less respected. The abolition of
+the old, and the formation of a new nobility, composed chiefly of men
+who had risen from inferior military situations, has had a most
+pernicious effect on the general manners of the nation. The chief or
+sole use of a hereditary nobility in a free country, is to keep up a
+standard of dignity and elegance of manner, which serves as a model of
+imitation much more extensively than the middling and lower ranks are
+often willing to allow, and has a more beneficial effect on the national
+character, than it is easy to explain on mere speculative principles.
+But the manners of the new French nobility being the very reverse of
+dignified or elegant, their constitution has hitherto tended only to
+confirm the changes in the general manners of a great proportion of the
+French nation, which the revolutionary ideas had effected. There are
+very few men to be seen now in France, who (making all allowances for
+difference of previous habits) appear to Englishmen to possess either
+the manners or feelings of gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>The best possible proof that this is not a mere national prejudice, in
+so far as the army is concerned, is, that the French <i>ladies</i> are very
+generally of the same way of thinking. After the English officers left
+Toulouse in the summer of 1814, the ladies of that town found the
+manners of the French officers who succeeded them so much less
+agreeable, that they could not be prevailed on, for a long time, to
+admit them into their society. This is a triumph over the arms of
+France, which we apprehend our countrymen would have found it much more
+difficult to achieve in the days of the ancient monarchy.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, it must be admitted, that the revolution, has had the
+effect of completely removing from the French character that silly
+veneration for high rank, unaccompanied by any commanding qualities of
+mind, which used to form a predominant feature in it. Yet it seems
+doubtful whether the equivalent they have obtained is more likely to
+promote their happiness. They have now an equally infatuated admiration
+for ability and success, without integrity or virtue. Their minds have
+been delivered from the dominion of rank without talents, and have
+fallen under that of talents without principle.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;THE THEATRES.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">I</span><span class="smcap">t</span>
+is difficult for any person who has never quitted England to enter
+into the feelings which every one must experience when he first finds it
+in his power to examine those peculiarities of national manners, or
+national taste, in the people of other states, which have long been the
+subject of speculation in his own country, and on his imperfect
+knowledge of which, much perhaps of the estimate he has formed of the
+character of those nations may depend. The circumstance which perhaps,
+of all others connected with the people of France, is most likely to
+create this feeling of curiosity and interest, is the opportunity of
+attending the French theatres. In most countries, and even in some
+where dramatic representations possess much greater power over the minds
+of the audience, the theatre is comparatively of much less importance to
+a stranger in assisting him to judge of the character of the people; the
+observations which he may collect can seldom be of any great use in
+affording him means of understanding their manners and public character,
+and at the most, cannot inform him of those circumstances in the
+character of the people with which their happiness and prosperity are
+connected;&mdash;but the theatre at Paris is an object of the greatest
+interest to a stranger; every one knows how strikingly the character and
+dispositions of the French people are displayed at their theatres; and
+at the period when we were there, as every speech almost contained
+something which was eagerly turned into an allusion to the circumstances
+of their situation, and to the events which had so lately taken place,
+the interest which the theatres must at any time have excited, was
+greatly increased.</p>
+
+<p>There was another object also, less temporary in its nature, which
+rendered frequent attendance at the theatre, one of the most useful and
+instructive occupations of our time. The construction and character of
+the French tragedies have been as generally questioned in other
+countries, as they are universally and enthusiastically admired in
+France; and with whatever feelings, whether of pleasure or fatigue, we
+might have read these celebrated compositions, we were all naturally
+most anxious to ascertain how far they were calculated for actual
+representation, and what effect these plays, which possess such
+influence over the French people, might produce on those who had been
+accustomed to dramatic writings of so very different a description.</p>
+
+<p>The theatres present, at first view, a very favourable aspect of French
+character. The audience uniformly conduct themselves with propriety and
+decorum; they are always attentive to the piece represented, and shew
+themselves, in general very good judges of theatrical merit; and the
+entertainments which please their taste are certainly of a superior
+order to a great part of those which are popular in England. A great
+number of the performances which are loudly applauded by the pit and
+boxes of the London theatres, would be esteemed low and vulgar, even by
+the galleries at the Theatre Français. It must be added, likewise, that
+the morality of the plays which are in request, is very generally more
+strict than of favourite English plays; and often of a refined and
+sentimental turn, which would be little relished in England. The
+tragedies acted at the Theatre Français are generally modelled on the
+Greek; those of Racine and Voltaire are common. The comedies have seldom
+any low life or buffoonery, or vulgar ribaldry in them; The after
+pieces, and the ballets at the Academie de Musique, and at the Opera
+Comique, are often beautiful representations of rural innocence and
+enjoyments.</p>
+
+<p>It appears at first difficult to reconcile this taste in theatrical
+entertainments with the well-known immorality of the Parisians; but the
+fact is, that as they are in the daily habit of speaking of virtues
+which they do not practise, so it never appears to enter their heads;
+that the sentiments which they delight in hearing at the theatres ought
+to regulate their conduct to one another. They applaud them only for
+their adaptation to the situation of the fictitious personages; whereas
+in England they are applauded, for speaking home to the business and
+bosoms of the audience.</p>
+
+<p>The conduct and style of the French tragedies, in particular, appear to
+be very characteristic of a nation among whom noble and virtuous
+feelings are no sooner experienced than they are proclaimed to the
+world; and are there valued, rather for the selfish pleasure they
+produce, in the mind, than for their influence on conduct. The French
+will not admit, in their tragedies, the representation of all the
+variety of character and situation that can throw an air of truth and
+reality over dramatic fiction; they can admire such incidents and
+characters only, as accord with the sentiments and emotions which it is
+the peculiar province of tragedy to excite. They are not satisfied with
+the indication, in a few energetic words,&mdash;valuable only as an index to
+the state of the mind, and an earnest of the actions of the speaker,&mdash;of
+feelings too strong to find vent at the moment, in words capable of
+fully expressing them; they must have the full developement, the long
+detailed exposition of all the thoughts which crowd into the mind of the
+actor or sufferer, expanded, as it were, to prolong the enjoyment of
+those who are to sympathise with them, and expressed in select and
+appropriate terms, with the pomp and stateliness of heroic verse. An
+English tragedy is valued as a representation of life and character; a
+French tragedy as a display of eloquence and feeling: and the reason is,
+that in France eloquence and feeling are valued for their own sake, and
+in England they are valued for the sake of the corresponding character
+and conduct.</p>
+
+<p>It is perhaps one of the strongest arguments in favour of the general
+plan of the English drama, and one of the best proofs that dramatic
+poetry ought to be judged by very different principles from those by
+which other kinds of poetry are criticised, that one of the principal
+merits of the French actors consists in hiding the chief peculiarities
+of their own dramatic school. The personages in a French tragedy are
+represented by the authors as it were a degree above human nature; but
+the actors study to present themselves before the audience as simple men
+and women: the speeches are generally such as appear to be delivered by
+persons who are superior to the overwhelming influence of strong
+passions, and who can calmly enter into an analysis of their own
+feelings; but the actors labour to give you the impression, that they
+are agitated by present, violent, and sudden emotions; the tragedies are
+composed with as much regularity as epic poems in heroic verse, but the
+best actors do all in their power, by varied intonation, by irregular
+pauses, and frequent bursts of passion, to conceal the rhymes, and break
+the uniformity of the measure.</p>
+
+<p>The effect of the rhymes and regular versification, in the mouths of the
+inferior actors, who have not the art to conceal them, is, to an English
+ear at least, very unpleasing, and indeed almost destructive of
+theatrical illusion; and as a number of such actors must necessarily
+appear in every tragedy, it may be doubted whether a tragedy is ever
+acted throughout on the French stage in so pleasing a manner, at least
+to an English taste, as some of our English tragedies are at present in
+the London theatres&mdash;as Venice preserved, for example, is now acted at
+Covent Garden. If such be our superiority, however, it must be ascribed,
+not to the tragic genius of the people being greater, but to there being
+fewer difficulties to be overcome on the English stage than on the
+French.</p>
+
+<p>We think it is pretty clear, likewise, that the style of the best
+English tragedies affords a better field for the display of genius in
+the actors, than that of the French. Where the sentiments of the
+characters introduced are fully expressed in their words&mdash;where their
+whole thoughts are detailed for the edification of the audience, however
+grand or touching these may be, it is obvious, that the actor who is to
+represent them is in trammels; the poet has done so much, that little
+remains for him; his art is confined to the display of emotions or
+passions, all the variations of which are set down for him, and which he
+is not permitted to alter. But when the expression of intense feeling is
+confined to few words, to broken sentences, and sudden transitions of
+thought, which let you, indeed, into the inmost recesses of the soul of
+the sufferer, but do not lay it open before you, it is permitted for the
+genius of the actor to co-operate with that of the poet in producing an
+effect, for which neither was singly competent. Those who have witnessed
+the representation of the heart-rendings of jealousy in Kean's Othello,
+or of the agonies of "love and sorrow joined" in Miss O'Neil's
+Belvidera, will, we are persuaded, acknowledge the truth of this
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>The ideas which we had formed of the French stage, from reading their
+tragedies, had prepared us to expect, in their principal actor, a
+figure, countenance, and manner, resembling those of Kemble, fitted to
+give full effect to the declamations in which they abound, and to the
+representation of characters of heroic virtue, elevated above the
+influence of earthly passions. The appearance of Talma is very different
+from this, and certainly has by no means the uniform dignity and
+majestic elevation of Kemble.</p>
+
+<p>Difficult as it must always be to convey, by any general description, a
+distinct or adequate notion of the excellence of any actor, there are
+some circumstances which it is common to mention, and some expressions
+which must be understood wherever the theatre is an object of interest,
+and the power of acting appreciated. Talma appears to us to unite more
+of the advantages of figure, and countenance, and voice, than any actor
+that we have ever seen: it is not that his person is large and graceful,
+or even well proportioned; on the contrary, he is rather a short man,
+and is certainly not without defects in the shape of his limbs. But
+these disadvantages are wholly overlooked in admiration of his dignified
+and imposing carriage&mdash;of his majestic head&mdash;and of his full and
+finely-proportioned chest, which expresses so nobly the resolution, and
+manliness, and independence of the human character.</p>
+
+<p>There is one circumstance in which Talma has every perfection which it
+is possible to conceive&mdash;in the power, and richness, and beauty of his
+<i>voice</i>. It is one of those commanding and pathetic voices which can
+never, at any distance of time, be forgotten by any one who has once
+heard it: every variety of tone and expression of which the human voice
+is capable, is perfectly at his command, and succeed each other with a
+rapidity and power which it is not possible to conceive. It makes its
+way to the heart the instant it is heard, and at the moment he begins to
+speak, you feel not only your attention fixed, and your admiration
+excited, but the mind wholly subdued by its resistless influence, and
+disposed to enter at once into every emotion which he may wish to
+produce. The beauty and feeling of his under tones, the affection,
+tenderness, and pity which they so exquisitely express, are so perfect,
+that no one could foresee in such perfections, the fierce, hurried, and
+overhearing tones of Nero&mdash;the voice of deep and exhausting suffering,
+which in Hamlet shews so profound an impression of the misery he had
+undergone, and of the hopelessness of the situation in which he is
+placed,&mdash;or still more the shriek of agony in Orestes, when he finds the
+horrors of madness again assailing him, and when, in that utter
+prostration of soul which the belief of inevitable and merciless destiny
+alone could produce in his mind, he abandons himself in dark despair to
+the misery which seems to close around him for ever.</p>
+
+<p>We have heard several English people describe Talma's countenance, as by
+no means powerful enough for a great actor; it appeared to us, that in
+no one respect was he so decidedly superior to any <i>actor</i> on the
+English stage, as in the truth and variety of expression which it
+displays. There is one observation indeed regarding the acting of Talma,
+which often suggested itself, and which may, in some degree, prepare us
+to expect, that English people in general could not be much struck with
+the expression of his countenance. On the English stage, it appears
+commonly to be the object of the actors, to give to every sentiment the
+whole effect of which the words of the part will admit, as fully as if
+that sentiment were the only one which could occupy the mind of the
+character at the time; and any person who will attend to the manner in
+which Macbeth and Hamlet are performed, even by that great actor whose
+genius has secured at once the pre-eminence which the reputation of
+Garrick had left so long uncontested, may observe, that many of the
+parts, which are applauded as the strongest proofs of the abilities of
+the actor, consist in the expression given to sentiments, undoubtedly of
+subordinate importance in the situation of these characters, and which
+probably could never occupy so exclusively the mind of any one really
+placed in the circumstances represented in the play, and under the
+influence of the feelings which such circumstances are calculated to
+produce. In the character of Hamlet, in particular, there are several
+passages, in which it is the custom to express minor and passing
+sentiments with a keenness little suitable to the profound grief in
+which Hamlet ought to be absorbed at the commencement of the play, and
+which can be natural only when the mind is free from other more powerful
+emotions. It appears to us, that the consistency of character is much
+more judiciously and naturally preserved in the acting of Talma; that he
+is more careful to maintain invariably that unity of expression which
+ought to be given to the character, and is more uniformly under the
+influence of those predominating feelings, which the circumstances of
+the situation in which the part has placed him seem fitted to excite.
+Under this impression apparently of the object which an actor ought to
+keep in view, Talma omits many opportunities, which would be eagerly
+employed on the English stage, to display the power of the actor, though
+the natural consistency of character might be violated; and never seems
+to think it proper to express, on all occasions, every sentiment with
+that effect which should be given to it, only when it becomes the
+predominant feeling of the moment. Much, no doubt, is lost for stage
+effect by this notion of acting. Many opportunities are passed over,
+which might have been employed to shew the manner in which the actor can
+represent a variety of feelings, which the language of the play may seem
+to admit; and we lose much of the art and skill of acting, when the
+talents of the actor are limited to the display of such sentiments only
+as accord with the simple and decided expression of character which he
+is anxious to maintain.</p>
+
+<p>But on the other hand, the impression which this representation of
+character makes upon the mind, is on the whole much more profound, and
+the interest which the spectator takes in the circumstances in which the
+character is placed, is much greater when the actor is so wholly under
+the influence of the feelings which the situation of the part ought to
+excite, as never to betray any emotion which can weaken that general
+effect which this situation would naturally produce. To those,
+therefore, accustomed to the greater variety of expression which the
+practice of the English stage renders necessary in the countenance of
+every actor, and to the strong and often exaggerated manner in which
+common sentiments and ordinary feelings are represented, there may
+perhaps appear some want of expression in Talma's countenance; but no
+one can attend fully to any of the more interesting characters which he
+performs, without feeling an impression produced by the power and
+intelligence of his countenance, which no length of time will ever
+wholly efface. It is not the expression of his countenance at any
+particular moment which fixes itself on the mind, or the force with
+which accidental feelings are represented; but that permanent and
+powerful expression which suits the character he has to sustain, and
+never for an instant permits you to forget the circumstances, of
+whatever kind, in which he is placed; and those who have seen him in any
+of the greater parts on the French stage, can never forget that
+unrivalled power of expressing deep grief, of which nothing in any
+English actor at present on the stage can afford any idea.</p>
+
+<p>At the same time it must be admitted, that Talma has arrived at that
+time of life, when the hand of age has impaired, in some degree, the
+vigour and expression of the human frame, and when his countenance has
+lost much of that variety and play of expression which belongs to the
+period of youth alone; it has lost much of the warmth and keenness of
+youthful feeling, and probably might fail in expressing that openness,
+and gaiety, and enthusiasm, which time has so great a tendency to
+diminish. But these qualities are not often required in the parts which
+Talma has to perform in the French plays; and if his countenance has
+lost some of the perfections of earlier years, it has, on the other
+hand, gained much from the seriousness and dignity of age. If, for
+instance, he does not express so well the ardour&mdash;the hope&mdash;the triumph
+of youthful love, there is yet something irresistibly affecting in the
+earnestness with which he expresses that passion; something which adds
+most deeply to the interest which its expression is calculated to
+excite, by reminding one of the instability of human enjoyment, and of
+the many misfortunes which the course of life may bring with it to
+destroy the visions of inexperienced affection. We have already
+mentioned, that in the expression of profound emotion and deep
+suffering, the countenance of Talma is altogether admirable; and we
+doubt whether there is any thing is this respect more true and perfect,
+even in the performance of that great actress who has, in the present
+day, united every perfection of grace, and beauty, and genuine feeling
+which the stage has ever exhibited. But the countenance of Talma, in
+scenes of distress, expresses not merely suffering, but if possible,
+something more, which we have never seen in any other actor. He alone
+possesses the power of expressing that impatience under suffering&mdash;that
+restless, constant wish for relief, which produces so strong an
+impression of the truth and reality of the affliction with which you are
+called upon to sympathise.</p>
+
+<p>His attitudes and action are uncommonly striking, seldom in the
+exaggeration of the French stage, and never running into that immoderate
+expression of passion in which dignity of character is necessarily
+sacrificed. Talma appears to understand the use and management of action
+better than any actor on the French stage; and though at times some
+prominent faults, inseparable, perhaps, from the character of the plays
+in which he is compelled to perform, may be observable; yet, in general,
+his action appears to possess a power and expression beyond what is
+attempted by any actor on the English stage.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can be conceived apparently so inconsistent with the character
+of the French plays, as the manner in which they are delivered. The
+harangues, which are tedious to many when read, might probably be very
+uninteresting to all when performed, if delivered with that unbending
+and unimpassioned declamation, which seems to suit "their stately march
+and long resounding lines:" to a French audience, in particular, such
+representations would be intolerable, and the actors, accordingly, have
+been led to perform them with a degree of energy and passion which they
+do not appear intended to admit, but which was necessary, perhaps, to
+awaken those emotions which it must be more or less the object of
+theatrical representations to excite, wherever they are to be performed
+to all classes of mankind. As might have been foreseen, the French
+actors, compelled to counterfeit a degree of warmth and feeling which
+was not suggested by the sentiments they utter, or the language they
+employ, have fallen very naturally into the error of making the
+expression of passion immoderately vehement; and thus, when not guided
+by the language they are to use, have become not only indiscriminate in
+the introduction of violent emotion, but often run into a degree of
+warmth, totally destructive of every feeling of propriety and dignity.</p>
+
+<p>The striking circumstance in Talma's acting is, that he alone seems to
+know how to act the French plays with all the feeling and interest which
+can be necessary to produce effect; and at the same time, to avoid that
+exaggerated representation of passion which represses the very emotions
+it is intended to excite. The means by which the genius of this great
+actor has accomplished so important an effect, and overcome the
+difficulties which seem insuperable to the rest of his countrymen,
+afford the best illustration that can be given of the talents and
+imagination he displays. Talma appears to have thought, and most justly,
+that the only manner in which the French tragedies can approach and
+interest the heart, is by the impression which the character and the
+moral tendency of the play may, upon the whole, be able to produce, not
+by the force or pathos which can be thrown into any detached speeches,
+or by the effect with which individual parts of the tragedy may be
+given. The impression which might be created by the delivery of any
+particular passage, or by the expression of any occasional sentiment, he
+seems at all times to consider as of subordinate importance to the
+preservation of that permanent character, whether of intense and
+overpowering suffering, or wild desperation, by which he thinks the
+feelings of the spectators may be most deeply and heartily interested.
+Much as we admire the excellencies of the English stage, and none we are
+persuaded can have an opportunity of comparing it with the acting of the
+French theatre, without being more sensible of its perfections, we
+think it may yet be observed, that many important objects are sacrificed
+to the desire of producing <i>continual</i> emotion,&mdash;to the practice of
+making every sentiment and every word tell upon the audience, with an
+effect which could not be greater, if that sentiment were the whole
+object of the tragedy. We admit, most willingly, the talent and feeling
+which are often so beautifully displayed in the course of the inferior
+scenes; and the impression, which is so frequently produced over the
+"whole assembled multitude," by the delivery of a single passage, of no
+importance in itself, attests sufficiently the merits of the actors who
+can thus wield at will the passions of the spectators. What we are
+anxious to observe is, that the <i>general impression</i>, from the play must
+be less profound, when the mind is thus distracted by a variety of
+powerful feelings succeeding each other so rapidly, and when the
+interest, which would naturally increase of itself as the performance
+proceeds, in the history and moral tendency of the tragedy, is thus
+broken, as it were, by the influence of so many transient passions. It
+is very singular to observe the difference, in this respect, between the
+character of an English and a Parisian audience: To the former, every
+thing, as it passes, must be given with the greatest effect; no
+opportunity can safely be omitted, by any one attentive to the public
+opinion, of displaying the power with which each sentiment may be
+expressed; and there is no common feeling among the spectators, of the
+subserviency of all the different parts of the tragedy to one great
+import, or that it is only in the more important scenes, where the
+events of the story are coming to a close, that great talent is to be
+exerted, or profound emotion excited. The feelings of a French audience,
+as might be expected, are such as better suit the character of the plays
+which have been so long addressed to them; they like to have their
+interest awakened, and their feelings excited, only as the story
+proceeds, and the deeper scenes of the tragedy begin to open upon them;
+and it is to the general impression which the progress and close of the
+play leave upon the mind, that they look, as to the criterion of the
+excellence of the manner, in which that play has been performed.
+Nothing, therefore, can be apparently quieter than the commencement of a
+French tragedy; and a person unacquainted with the language, would be
+disposed to conclude what was passing before him as uninteresting in the
+highest degree, if he did not observe the most profound and eager
+attention to prevail in those to whom it is addressed. It would be a
+subject of very curious and instructive speculation, to examine the
+circumstances, in the situation and intelligence of the people in both
+countries, which have occasioned this remarkable difference in their
+feelings, in moments when the influence of prejudice, or the effect of
+peculiar character, generally gives way, and when the genuine sentiments
+of mankind, as invariably happens when the different ranks of men are
+assembled indiscriminately together, assume their natural empire over
+the human heart. It might unfold some interesting conclusions both as to
+the great object of the drama, and the genuine style of dramatic
+representation; and might place, in a more important point of view than
+is within the consideration, perhaps, of many who so hastily decide on
+the superiority of the English stage, the excellence they admire.</p>
+
+<p>Much as the French tragedies are despised in this country, and sensible
+as we are of many essential defects which belong to them, when
+considered as the means of exciting popular feeling, or of applying to
+the duties of common life, we must yet state the very great and lasting
+impression which many of them left on our minds, and which, we can truly
+say, was never equalled by any effect produced by the most successful
+efforts of the English stage. At our own theatres, we have been often
+more deeply affected during the performance of the play,&mdash;we have often
+admired, much more, the grace, or feeling, or grandeur of the acting we
+witnessed, and been more highly delighted with the <i>species</i> of talent
+which was displayed; but yet, we must acknowledge, that the impression
+that all this <i>left upon the mind</i>, was not such as has been produced by
+the powers of Talma in the French tragedies. We had many occasions,
+however, to see that this effect was to be attributed chiefly to the
+genius of this great actor, and that it was only when entrusted to him,
+that the influence of these plays was so deeply felt.</p>
+
+<p>The great difference, then, between the acting of Talma, and of the
+other actors on the French stage, is his constant attention to the means
+by which the impression, which the general tendency of the play will
+produce, may be increased. Whatever may be the character which the
+nature of the tragedy seems to require, his whole powers are employed to
+pursue that character inviolably during the progress of the play, and to
+add to the effect it is fitted to produce: The character of profound
+grief, for instance, is so completely sustained, that the very act of
+speaking seems an exertion too great for a mind which suffering has
+nearly exhausted, and where, in consequence, the pomp and energy of
+declamation, and many of the most natural aids by which passion is wont
+to express itself, are all disregarded in the intensity of mental agony.
+It is not uncommon, accordingly, to see Talma perform parts of a tragedy
+in a manner which might seem tame and unmeaning to one who had not been
+present at the preceding parts, but which is most interesting to those
+who have seen the character which he adopts from the first, and feel the
+propriety and effect of the manner in which that character is sustained.
+Some of the most striking effects we have ever seen produced in any
+acting, are in those scenes, in many plays in which he performs, in
+which, from his powerful and affecting personation of character, his
+exhausted mind seems unable to enter into any events which are not
+either to relieve his sufferings, or terminate an existence which
+appears beset with such hopeless misery. Other actors may have succeeded
+in expressing as strongly the influence of present suffering, or the
+despair of intense grief. It is Talma alone who knows how to express,
+what is so much more grand, the effects of long suffering; to remind you
+of the misery he has endured by the spectacle of an exhausted frame and
+broken spirit; and by exhibiting the overwhelming consequence of those
+sufferings which the poet has not dared to describe, nor the actor
+ventured to represent to interest the mind far more profoundly than any
+representation of present passion could possibly effect. The influence
+of the exertions of other actors is limited to the effects of the
+emotions they represent, and of the suffering they exhibit: the genius
+of Talma has imitated the efforts of ancient Greece in her matchless
+sculpture, and, in every situation which put it within his power,
+chosen, as the proper field for the display of the actor's powers, not
+the mere representation of excess in suffering, but that moment of
+greater interest, when the struggle of nature is past, and the mind has
+sunk under the pressure of affliction, which no fortitude could sustain,
+and which no ray of hope had cheered.</p>
+
+<p>Every one knows the peculiar manner in which, in general, the verses of
+the French tragedy are repeated, and the delight which the French people
+take in the uniform and balanced modulation of voice with which they are
+accompanied. In an ordinary actor, this peculiar tone is often, to many
+foreigners, extremely fatiguing, but it is defended in France, as
+securing a pleasure in some degree independent of the merits of the
+actor, and defending the audience from the harshness of tone, and
+extravagancies of accent, to which otherwise, in bad actors, they would
+be exposed; and certainly no one can listen, in the National Theatre, to
+the beautiful and splendid declamations of the most celebrated
+compositions in French literature, delivered in the manner which has
+been selected as best adapted to the character of the plays and the
+taste of the people, with any feeling of indifference. In the skilful
+hands of Talma, who preserves the beauty of the poetry nearly unimpaired
+in the very <i>abandon</i> of feeling, the French verse acquires beauties
+which it never before could boast, and loses all that is harsh or
+painful in the uniformity of its structure, or the monotony of
+artificial taste. The description which Le Baron de Grimm has given of
+Le Kain may be well applied to Talma. "Un talent plus precieux sans
+doute et qu'il avait porté au plus haut degré c'etait celui de faire
+sentir tout le charme des beaux vers sans nuire jamais a la verité de
+l'expression. En dechirant le c&#339;ur, il enchantait toujours l'oreille, sa
+voix pénétrait jusqu'au fond de l'ame, et l'impression qu'elle y
+faisait, semblable a celle du burin, y laissait des traces et longs
+souvenirs."</p>
+
+<p>The tragedy of Hamlet, in which we saw Talma perform for the first time,
+is one which must be interesting to every person who has any
+acquaintance with French literature; and it will not probably be
+considered as any great digression in a description of Talma's
+excellencies as an actor, to add some further remarks concerning that
+celebrated play in which his powers are perhaps most strikingly
+displayed, and which is one of the greatest compositions undoubtedly of
+the French theatre. It can hardly be called a translation, as many
+material alterations were made in the story of the play; and though the
+general purport of the principal speeches has been sometimes preserved,
+the language and sentiments are generally extremely different. The
+character of Shakespeare's Hamlet was wholly unsuited to the taste of a
+French audience. What is the great attraction in that mysterious being
+to the feelings of the English people, the strange, wild, and
+metaphysical ideas which his art or his madness seems to take such
+pleasure in starting, and the uncertainty in which Shakespeare has left
+the reader with regard to Hamlet's real situation, would not perhaps
+have been understood&mdash;certainly not admired, by those who were
+accustomed to consider the works of Racine and Voltaire as the models of
+dramatic composition. In the play of Ducis, accordingly, Hamlet thinks,
+talks, and acts pretty much as any other human being would do, who
+should be compelled to speak only in the verse of the French tragedy,
+which necessarily excludes, in a great degree, any great incoherence or
+flightiness of sentiment. In some respects, however, the French Hamlet,
+if a less poetical personage, is nevertheless a more interesting one,
+and better adapted to excite those feelings which are most within the
+command of the actor's genius. M. Ducis has represented him as more
+doubtful of the reality of the vision which haunted him, or at least of
+the authority which had commissioned it for such dreadful
+communications; and this alteration, so important in the hands of Talma,
+was required on account of other changes which had been made in the
+story of the play. The paramour of the Queen is not Hamlet's uncle, nor
+had the Queen either married the murderer, or discovered her criminal
+connexion with him. Hamlet, therefore, has not, in the incestuous
+marriage of his mother, that strong confirmation of the ghost's
+communication, which, in Shakespeare, led him to suspect foul play even
+before he sees his father's spirit. In the French play, therefore,
+Hamlet is placed in one of the most dreadful situations in which the
+genius of poetry can imagine a human being: Haunted by a spirit, which
+assumes such mastery over his mind, that he cannot dispel the fearful
+impression it has made, or disregard the communication it so often
+repeats, while his attachment to his mother, in whom he reveres the
+parent he has lost, makes him question the truth of crimes which are
+thus laid to her charge, and causes him to look upon this terrific
+spectre as the punishment of unknown crime, and the visitation of an
+offended Deity. Ducis has most judiciously and most poetically
+represented Hamlet, in the despair which his sufferings produce, as
+driven to the belief of an over-ruling destiny, disposing of the fate of
+its unhappy victims by the most arbitrary and revolting arrangement, and
+visiting upon some, with vindictive fury, the whole crimes of the age in
+which they live. There is in this introduction of ancient superstition,
+something which throws a mysterious veil round the destiny of Hamlet,
+that irresistibly engrosses the imagination, and which must be doubly
+interesting in that country where the horrors of the revolution have
+ended in producing a very prevalent, though vague belief, in the
+influence of fatality upon human character and human actions, among
+those who pretend to ridicule, as unmanly prejudice and childish
+delusion, the religion of modern Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The struggle, accordingly, that appears to take place in Hamlet's mind
+is most striking; and when at last he yields to the authority and the
+commands of the spirit, which exercises such tyranny over his mind, it
+does not seem the result of any farther evidence of the guilt which he
+is enjoined to revenge, but as the triumph of superstition over the
+strength of his reason. He had long resisted the influence of that
+visionary being, which announced itself as his father's injured spirit,
+and in assuming that sacred form, had urged him to destroy the only
+parent whom fate had left; but the struggle had brought him to the brink
+of the grave, and shaken the empire of reason; and when at last he
+abandons himself to the guidance of a power which his firmer nature had
+long resisted, the impression of the spectator is, that his mind has
+yielded in the struggle, and that, in the desperate hope of obtaining
+relief from present wretchedness, he is about to commit the most
+horrible crimes, by obeying the suggestions of a spirit, which he more
+than suspects to be employed only to tempt him on to perdition. No
+description can possibly do justice to the manner in which this
+situation of Hamlet is represented by Talma; indeed, on reading over the
+play some time afterwards, it was very evident that the powers of the
+actor had invested the character with much of the grandeur and terror
+which seemed to belong to it, and that the imagination of the French
+poet, which rises into excellence, even when compared with the
+productions of that great master of the passions whom he has not
+submitted to copy, has been surpassed by the fancy of the actor for whom
+he wrote. The Hamlet of Talma is probably productive of more profound
+emotion, than any representation of character on any stage ever excited.</p>
+
+<p>One other alteration ought to be mentioned, as it renders the
+circumstances of Hamlet's situation still more distressing, and affords
+Talma an opportunity of displaying the effects of one of the gentler
+passions of human nature, when its influence seemed irreconcileable with
+the stern and fearful duties which fate had assigned to him. The Ophelia
+of the French play, so unlike that beautiful and innocent being who
+alone seems to connect the Hamlet of Shakespeare with the feelings and
+nature of ordinary men, has been made the daughter of the man for whose
+sake the king has been poisoned, and was engaged to marry Hamlet at that
+happier period when he was the ornament of his father's court, and the
+hope of his father's subjects. In the first part of the play, though no
+hint of the terrible revenge which he was to execute on her father has
+escaped, the looks and anxiety of Talma discover to her that her fate is
+in some degree connected with the emotions which so visibly oppress him,
+and she makes him at last confess the insurmountable barrier which
+separates them for ever. Nothing can be greater than the acting of Talma
+during this difficult scene, in which he has to resist the entreaties of
+the woman whom he loves, when imploring for the life of her father, and
+yet so overcome with his affection, as hardly to have strength left to
+adhere to his dreadful purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The feelings of a French audience do not permit the spirit of Hamlet's
+father to appear on the stage: "L'apparition se passe, (says Madame de
+Stael)<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>, en entier dans la physionomie de Talma, et certes elle n'en
+est pas ainsi moins effrayante. Quand, au milieu d'un entretien calme et
+melancolique, tout a coup il aperçoit le spectre, on suit tout; ses
+mouvemens dans les yeux qui le contemplent, et l'on ne peut douter de la
+presence du fantome quand un tel regard l'atteste." The remark is
+perfectly just, nothing can be imagined more calculated to dispel at
+once the effect which the countenance of a great actor, in such
+circumstances, would naturally produce, than bringing any one on the
+stage to personate the ghost; and whoever has seen Talma in this part,
+will acknowledge that the mind is not disposed to doubt, for an instant,
+the existence of that form which no eye but his has seen, and of that
+voice which no ear but his has heard. We regretted much, while
+witnessing the astonishing powers which Talma displayed in this very
+difficult part of the play, that it was impossible to see his genius
+employed in giving effect to the character of Aristodemo, (in the
+Italian tragedy of that name by Monti), to which his talents alone could
+do justice, and which, perhaps, affords more room for the display of the
+actor's powers, than any other play with which we are acquainted.</p>
+
+<p>But the soliloquy on death is the part in which the astonishing
+excellence and genius of Talma are most strikingly displayed. Whatever
+difficulty there may often be to determine the particular manner in
+which scenes, with other characters, ought to be performed, there is no
+difference of opinion as to the manner in which soliloquies ought in
+general to be delivered. How comes it, then, that these are the very
+parts in which all feel that the powers of the actors are so much tried,
+and in which, for the most part, they principally fail? No one can have
+paid any attention to the English stage, without being struck with the
+circumstance, that while there may be much to praise in the performance
+of the other parts, many of the best actors uniformly fail in
+soliloquies; and that it is only of late, since the reputation of the
+English stage, has been so splendidly revived, that we have seen these
+difficult and interesting parts properly performed. It is in this
+circumstance, more than any other, in which the talents of Talma are
+most remarkably displayed, because he is peculiarly fitted, by his
+complete personation of character, and the deep interest which he seems
+himself to take in the part he is sustaining, to excel in performing
+what chiefly requires such interest. He is, at all times, so fully
+impressed with the feelings, which, under such circumstances, must have
+been really felt, that one is uniformly struck with the truth and
+propriety of every thing he does; and of course, in soliloquies, which
+must be perfect, when the actor appears to be seriously and deeply
+interested in the subjects on which he is meditating, Talma invariably
+succeeds. In this soliloquy in Hamlet, he is completely absorbed in the
+awful importance of the great question which occupies his attention, and
+nothing indicates the least consciousness of the multitude which
+surrounds him, or even that he is giving utterance to the mighty
+thoughts which crowd upon his mind. "Talma ne faisoit pas un geste,
+quelquefois seulement il remuoit la tête pour questioner la terre et le
+ciel sur ce que c'est que la mort! Immobile, la dignité de la meditation
+absorboit tout son etre."&mdash;De l'Allemagne, 1. c. We could wish to avoid
+any attempt to describe the acting of Talma in those passages which the
+eloquence of M. de Stael has rendered familiar throughout Europe; yet we
+feel that this account of the tragedy of Hamlet would be imperfect, if
+we did not allude to that very interesting scene, which corresponds, in
+the history of the play, to the closet scene in Shakespeare. Talma
+appears with the urn which contains the ashes of his father, and whose
+injured spirit he seems to consult, to obtain more proof of the guilt
+which he is to revenge, or in the hope that the affections of human
+nature may yet survive the horrors of the tomb, and that the duty of
+the son will not be tried in the blood of the parent who gave him birth.
+But no voice is heard to alter the sentence which he is doomed to
+execute; and he is still compelled to prepare himself to meet with
+sternness his guilty mother. After charging her, with the utmost
+tenderness and solemnity, with the knowledge of her husband's murder, he
+places the urn in her hands, and requires her to swear her innocence
+over the sacred ashes which it contains. At first, the consciousness
+that Hamlet could only <i>suspect</i> her crime, gives her resolution to
+commence the oath with firmness; and Talma, with an expression of
+countenance which cannot be described, awaits, in triumph and joy, the
+confirmation of her innocence,&mdash;and seems to call upon the spirit which
+had haunted him, to behold the solemn scene which proves the falsehood
+of its mission. But the very tenderness which he shews destroys the
+resolution of his mother, and she hesitates in the oath she had begun to
+pronounce. His feelings are at once changed,&mdash;the paleness of horror,
+and fury of revenge, are marked in his countenance, and his hands grasp
+the steel which is to punish her guilt: But the agony of his mother
+again overpowers him, at the moment he is about to strike; he appeals
+for mercy to the shade of his father, in a voice, in which, as M. de
+Stael has truly said, all the feelings of human nature seem at once to
+burst from his heart, and, in an attitude humbled by the view of his
+mother's guilt and wretchedness, he awaits the confession she seems
+ready to make: and when she sinks, overcome by the remorse and agony
+which she feels, he remembers only that she is his mother; the affection
+which had been long repressed again returns, and he throws himself on
+his knees, to assure her of the mercy of Heaven. We do not wish to be
+thought so presumptuous as to compare the talents of the French author
+with the genius of Shakespeare, but we must be allowed to say, that we
+think this scene better managed for dramatic effect: and certainly no
+part of Hamlet, on the English stage, ever produced the same impression,
+or affected us so deeply. We are well aware, however, how very different
+the scene would have appeared in the hands of any other actors than
+Talma and Madle Duchesnois, and that a very great part of the merit
+which the play seemed to possess, might be more justly attributed to the
+talents which they displayed. At the conclusion of this great tragedy,
+which has become so popular in France, and in which the genius of Talma
+is so powerfully exhibited, the applause was universal; and after some
+little time, to our surprise, instead of diminishing, became much
+louder; and presently a cry of Talma burst out from the whole house. In
+a few minutes the curtain drew up, and discovered Talma waiting to
+receive the applause with which they honoured him, and to express his
+sense of the distinction paid to him.</p>
+
+<p>The part of Orestes in Andromaque, is another character in which the
+acting of Talma is seen to much advantage: and to a foreigner, it is
+peculiarly interesting, as it displays, more than any other almost, that
+uncommon power of recitation which distinguishes his acting from the
+tame and monotonous declamation of the ordinary actors; and which gives
+to the splendid language, and elevated sentiments of the French
+tragedies, an effect which cannot easily be understood by any one who
+has never seen them well performed. The part is one which is remarkably
+popular at present in Paris, as there is something in the history of
+that fabulous being, who has been represented as the victim of a
+capricious and arbitrary Providence, and exposed during his whole life
+to the most unmerited and horrible torments, which seems greatly to
+interest the French people; and Talma has thus been led to bestow upon
+the character a degree of reflection and preparation, which the parts
+in a French tragedy do not in general require. There is a passage which
+occurs in the first scene, which exhibits very strikingly the judgment
+and genuine feeling which uniformly marks his acting. After mentioning
+what had happened to him after his disappointment, with regard to
+Hermione, and his separation from Pylades, he says, that he had hastened
+to the great assembly of the Greeks, which the common interest of Greece
+had called together, in the hope, that the ardour, the activity, and the
+love of glory which had distinguished the period of youth, might revive
+with the animating scene which was again presented to his mind.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"En ce calme trompeur J'arrivai dans la Grece</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et Je trouvois d'abord ces princes rassemblès,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qu'un peril assez grand sembloit avoir troublès.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">J'y courus. Je pensai que la guerre et la gloire</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">De soins plus importants remplissoit ma memoire</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Que mes sens reprenant leur premiere vigueur</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">L'amour acheveroit de sortir de mon c&#339;ur.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Mais admire avec mois le sort, dont la pursuite</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Me fait courir alors au piege que j'evite."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>There is a similar passage in Othello, in which, when the passion of
+jealousy had seized upon his mind, the Moor laments the degradation to
+which he had fallen, when all the objects of his former ambition ceased
+to interest his imagination, or animate his exertions. In enumerating
+the occupations which formed the pomp and glorious circumstance of war,
+but for which the misery of his situation had completely unmanned him,
+the actors who have attempted this character, fire with the description
+of the arms which he now abandons, and of the scenes in which his renown
+had been acquired. In this analogous passage, Talma repeats these scenes
+with much greater propriety and effect. He appeared overwhelmed by a
+deep sense of the degradation to which a foolish and unmanly attachment
+had reduced him; no gesture or tone of voice, expressive of the
+slightest animation, escaped him, when he described the objects of his
+youthful ambition; every thing denoted the shame and regret of a man who
+felt that his glory and his occupation were gone, and who no longer
+dared to look up with pride to the remembrance of those better days,
+when his valour and his resolution were the admiration of Greece.</p>
+
+<p>The scene between Orestes and Hermione on their first meeting, is one in
+which Talma displays very great power: with his heart full of the
+passion from which he had suffered so much, he begins the declaration of
+his constancy in the most ardent and impressive manner, and for a time
+seems to flatter himself, that resentment at the neglect which she had
+met with from Pyrrhus might have awakened some affection for himself in
+the breast of Hermione. At first she is anxious to secure Orestes in
+case that Pyrrhus should ultimately slight her, and is at pains to
+confirm the hope which she perceives that this passion had created: But
+when he urges her to take the opportunity which how offered itself, of
+leaving a court where she appeared to be detained only to witness the
+marriage of her rival, she betrays at once the state of her mind:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">"Mais, seigneur, cependant s'il epouse Andromaque.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Oreste</i>. Hé, madame.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Her</i>. Songez quelle honte pour nous,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Si d'une Phrygienne il devenoit lepoux.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>Oreste</i>. Et vous le haissez!"&mdash;&amp;c.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The indignant and bitter irony with which Talma delivers this speech,
+when he finds that resentment at Pyrrhus, and not affection for himself,
+has made her thus anxious to rivet the chains which her former cruelty
+had hardly weakened, is most striking, and he seems at once to regain
+the independence which he had lost.</p>
+
+<p>There is another passage of very peculiar interest, which we hope it
+will not be prolonging these remarks too far to quote, as affording a
+very striking instance of the effect which the powers of Talma are able
+to produce, under almost any circumstances. When Pyrrhus, at one part of
+the play, consents to surrender Astyanax, and by this rupture with
+Andromache, resolves to marry Hermione, Orestes is thrown at once into
+the utmost despair by this sudden change of plans, and by this
+disappointment of his hopes. When he again appears with Pylades, he
+threatens to take the most violent measures, to interrupt this marriage,
+and to carry off Hermione by force from the court where she was
+detained. His friend naturally feels for the wound which his fame must
+suffer from such an outrage, and the dishonour which it would bring upon
+a name rendered sacred throughout Greece, from the unmerited misfortunes
+which he had sustained. "Voila donc le succès qu'aura votre ambassade.
+Oreste ravisseur." But such considerations are of no avail in the
+intemperance of his present feelings; and Orestes, after alluding to the
+injury of a second rejection by Hermione, proceeds to another motive,
+which urged him to any means, however violent to secure his object, and
+which most powerfully interests the imagination. Every one knows the
+supposed history of that mysterious character, whose destiny seemed to
+have placed him at the disposal of some unrelenting enemy of the human
+race, and who had suffered every misfortune which could oppress human
+nature.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"&mdash;&mdash;Mais, s'il faut ne te rien deguiser</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Mon innocence enfin commence a me peser,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Je ne sais, de tout tems, quelle injuste puissence</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Laisse le crime en paix, et poursuit l'innocence,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">De quelque part sur moi que je trouve les yeux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Je ne vois que malheurs qui condamnent lea Dieux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Meritons leur courroux, justifions leur haine,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et que le fruit du crime en précéde la peine."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is a remark of Seneca, that the most sublime spectacle in nature is
+the view of a great man <i>struggling against</i> misfortune, and such a
+character has ever been considered as the most appropriate subject for
+dramatic representation. The extreme difficulty of succeeding, in the
+very important passage which I have quoted, is obviously because the
+very reverse of such a spectacle is now presented to the mind,&mdash;when
+Orestes is made to abandon that distinction in <i>his fate</i> which alone
+gave him any peculiar hold over the feelings of the spectators, and
+because the actor must continue to engage, even more deeply than
+before, their <i>interest</i> and their <i>pity</i>, at the very time when the
+sentiments he utters must necessarily lower the dignity of the character
+he sustains, and diminish the compassion he had previously awakened.
+How, then, is that ascendency over the mind, which the singular destiny
+of Orestes naturally acquires, to be preserved, when he no longer is to
+be regarded as the innocent sufferer who claims our interest, and when
+he is content to descend to the level of ordinary men? In this very
+difficult passage Talma is eminently successful; no vehemence of manner
+accompanies the desperate resolution he expresses, the recollection of
+the misery he has suffered, and the dread of the greater misfortunes
+which his present intentions must bring upon him, seem wholly to
+overpower him, and his countenance, marked with the utmost dejection and
+wretchedness, appears still to appeal for mercy to the power which
+persecutes him. Everything in his appearance and voice conveys the
+impression of a person overwhelmed with misfortunes, and hurried on, by
+an impulse he cannot controul, into greater calamities, and more
+complicated misery. The very sentiment which he avows, seems to proceed
+from the over-ruling influence of a destiny which he has in vain
+attempted to resist, and to be only another proof of the unceasing
+persecution to which he is exposed; and though he no longer commands
+admiration, or deserves esteem, he becomes more than ever the object of
+the deepest commiseration. Talma appears to attach much importance to
+the impression which this passage may produce, as much of the view which
+he exhibits of the character of Orestes seems intended to assist its
+effect; and we certainly consider it as the greatest and most successful
+effort of <i>genius</i>, which we have ever seen displayed upon any stage.
+After witnessing this representation of the character of Orestes at this
+melancholy period of his life, it was with no ordinary interest that we
+shortly after saw Talma perform the part of Orestes in Iphigénie en
+Tauride, a play which represents very beautifully the only event in his
+life, which ever seemed likely to secure his happiness, the discovery of
+his sister; and we shall never forget the beautiful expression of
+Talma's countenance, and the delightful tones of his voice, when he
+described to his sister and his friend, the emotions which the feeling
+of happiness so new to him had created, and the hopes of future exertion
+and honour, which he now felt himself able to entertain.</p>
+
+<p>The last scene of this interesting tragedy is the most celebrated and
+most admired part in the range of Talma's characters, and undoubtedly it
+is impossible to find any acting more admirable or more affecting: After
+the death of Pyrrhus, he rushes upon the stage to inform Hermione that
+he had obeyed her dreadful commission, and to receive the reward of such
+a proof of his attachment; the horror of the crime which he had
+committed is sunk in his confidence of the claim he has now acquired to
+her gratitude, and he triumphantly relates the circumstances of the
+scene which had passed, as giving him such undeniable titles to the
+reward which had been promised to his firmness.&mdash;Madame de Stael has
+mentioned the effect he gives to the short and feeble reply which he
+makes, when Hermione accuses him of cruelty, and throws all the guilt of
+the murder on himself;&mdash;but it is in the subsequent part that he appears
+so great: After Hermione leaves him, and he recovers in some degree of
+the stupor which such an unexpected attack had produced, he repeats, in
+a hurried manner, the circumstances of his situation, and dwells on the
+perfidy of Hermione; but when he finds no palliation for his crime, and
+sees how completely he has been degraded by his unmanly weakness, the
+whole enormity of his guilt comes full upon his mind, and he acquires
+even dignity in the opinion of the beholder, from the solemn and
+emphatic manner in which he curses the folly and inhumanity of his
+conduct. But a further blow awaits him; and it is not till Pylades
+informs him of the death of Hermione, that the horrors of madness begin
+to seize on his mind. At first he remains motionless and thunderstruck
+with the dreadful issue of his enterprise; then, in a low and thrilling
+tone of voice, he laments the bitterness and misery of that destiny by
+which he is doomed to be for ever the victim of fate, (du malheur un
+modêle accompli,) till the wildness of madness comes over him: In a
+voice hardly heard, he seems to ask himself, "Quelle épaisse nuit tout a
+coup m'environne, de quelle coté sortir? D'ou-vient que je frissonne.
+Quelle horreur me saisit?"&mdash;and at once a shriek, dreadful beyond all
+description, announces the destruction of reason, and the agonies of
+madness. It is vain to describe the wild, desperate, and horrifying
+manner in which he represents Orestes tortured by the frightful visions
+with which the furies had visited his mind, till his nature, exhausted
+by such intense sufferings, sinks at once into a calm, more dreadful
+even than the wildness which had preceded it.</p>
+
+<p>These remarks have been extended so much beyond the limits which can be
+interesting to those who have never seen this unrivalled actor, and to
+whom they can convey so very inadequate a notion of his powers, that it
+is impossible to make any further observations, which his performance in
+other characters may have suggested. The most interesting character,
+perhaps, in which we saw him perform after these, was Nero in
+Britannicus. Every person who has been in Paris, since the collection of
+statues was brought there, must have remarked the striking resemblance
+of Talma's countenance to the first busts of Nero; and this singular
+circumstance, along with the admirable manner in which he represents the
+impatient, headstrong, and profligate tyrant, rendered his acting in
+this character remarkably interesting. The opportunities Which he
+enjoyed of studying the character and the manner of Bonaparte,&mdash;who
+never forgot the assistance he received from Talma, when he first
+entered that city, where he was afterwards to govern with such unbounded
+power,&mdash;must have been present to his mind when he was preparing this
+difficult character; and if it is supposed that he must have been, even
+with this advantage, little able to imagine correctly the manner and
+deportment of so singular a character as the Roman Emperor, none will
+question the judgment, on this point, of that extraordinary person,
+under whose tyranny Talma so long lived, and who, as Talma has often
+declared, did actually suggest many improvements in the manner in which
+he had first acted the part.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle Georges, the great tragic actress, was reckoned at one time
+the most beautiful woman in France. She is now grown very large, and her
+movements are, from that cause, stiff and constrained; but she is still
+a fine woman, and her countenance, though not very striking at first
+sight, is capable of wonderful variety and intensity of expression; her
+style of acting may be said to be intermediate between the matronly
+dignity and majestic deportment of Mrs Siddons, and the enchanting
+sweetness and feminine graces of Miss O'Neil. In the delineation of
+strong feelings and violent passions, of grief, madness, or despair, she
+will not suffer from comparison with either of these actresses; but we
+should doubt whether she can ever have inspired as much moral sympathy
+and admiration as the one has always commanded, by the elevation and
+grandeur of her representation of characters of exalted virtue, and the
+other daily wins, by the interesting tenderness of her manner, by the
+truth and energy of her impassioned scenes, and the overpowering pathos
+of her distress.</p>
+
+<p>The tragedy of &#338;dipe, by Voltaire, affords room for the display of the
+most characteristic qualities of Talma and Mademoiselle Georges; and
+when we saw them act &#338;dipus and Jocasta in this piece, we agreed that
+there were certainly no actor and actress, of equally transcendent
+merit, who act together in either of the London theatres. The distress
+of the play is of too horrible and repulsive a kind, we should conceive,
+to be ever admitted on the English stage; but it furnishes occasion for
+the display of consummate art in the imitation of the most terrible and
+overpowering emotions; and it is difficult to conceive a more powerful
+representation than they exhibited of the gloomy forebodings of
+suspicion, of the agonizing suspence of unsatisfied doubt, and the
+"sickening pang of hope deferred"&mdash;heightened, rather than diminished,
+by the consciousness of innocent intention, and the feeling of
+undeserved affliction, and giving way only to the certainty of
+irretrievable misery, and the phrenzy of utter despair.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding these remarks, upon a subject which interested us so much,
+we are anxious to offer some general reflections upon the character of
+the French stage, which were suggested by the observations we had an
+opportunity of making. It is far from being our intention, to enter into
+any discussion of the rules upon which the construction of their
+tragedies is supposed to depend, or to occupy the time of our readers,
+by useless remarks upon the sacrifices which it is said must be made, by
+strictly observing the <i>unities</i> in dramatic compositions. Quite enough
+is known of the <i>defects</i> of the French tragedy, and it is much to be
+regretted, that those who have had an opportunity of attending the
+French theatre, have generally carried their national prejudices along
+with them, and seem to have been more desirous to confirm the
+prepossessions they had previously acquired, than to form any fair and
+correct estimate of the merits of that drama. We are a little aware in
+general in this country, how much the composition of our own tragedies
+might be improved, and how much the effect of the talents which the
+stage displays might be increased, were we as candid in admitting the
+very great excellencies which the French stage possesses, as we have
+been desirous to discover its imperfections. Without presuming to
+attempt an examination of the French theatre, in the view of correcting
+what appear to us the errors in the public taste, we mean merely to
+state in what respects it appeared to us, that the impression left on
+the mind by the French tragedies is stronger and more lasting than any
+that we have experienced from attending our own theatres. Our conviction
+of the general superiority of the English stage has been already
+expressed, and therefore we hope we shall not be misapprehended in the
+object which we have in view in such remarks.</p>
+
+<p>1. In the first place, then, we would mention&mdash;what we hope is not
+necessary to illustrate at any length&mdash;the very great impression which
+must be made upon every thoughtful mind, by the unity of emotion which
+the French tragedies are fitted to produce. The effect which may result
+from this unity of emotion appears to excite much deeper interest, than
+can be produced by the mere exertion of the actors' power, when it is
+not uniformly directed to the expression of one general character. It is
+also worthy of consideration, whether the very important purposes to
+which the drama may be rendered subservient, may not be more easily
+accomplished, when the whole tendency of the composition, and the
+influence of acting, are employed in one general and consistent design.
+No such principle seems to have been kept in view in the composition of
+the greater part of the English tragedies. They resemble much, in truth,
+as we have before observed, the scene of human affairs, which the
+general aspect of the world presents,&mdash;full of every variety of
+incident, and depending upon the actions of a number of different
+characters. In the principal subject of the play, many seem to perform
+parts nearly of equal importance, and to be equally concerned in the
+issue of the story; each personage has his separate interest to claim
+our attention, and peculiar features of character, which require nice
+discrimination; and in general, no one character, or one subject, is
+sufficiently presented to view. The minds of the spectators, therefore,
+are oppressed and distracted by the variety of <i>feelings</i> which are
+excited, and their interest interrupted and dissipated, in some degree,
+from the <i>variety of objects</i> which claim it. The <i>general impression</i>,
+therefore, left upon the mind, is less pointed, less profound, and must
+produce less influence upon character, than when the feelings have been
+steadily and powerfully interested in the consequences of one marked
+and important event, or in the illustration of one great moral truth.</p>
+
+<p>2. We must be permitted to state, in the second place, that we think the
+French theatre is decidedly superior to our own, in the propriety and
+discrimination with which they keep out of view many of those
+exhibitions, which, on the English stage, are studiously brought forward
+with a view to effect: It would be altogether useless, to enter into any
+discussion of a question which has often been the subject of much idle
+controversy; nor should we be able, we know, to suggest any thing which
+could have any influence with those who think, that all the murders, and
+battles, and bustle, which occur in many of the grander scenes in the
+English tragedies, can increase the interest which such tragedies might
+produce, or contribute to the effect of theatrical illusion. We were not
+fortunate enough to see Talma in Ducis' play of Macbeth, where the
+difference between the French and English stage in this particular is
+very strongly illustrated; but from every thing we have, understood, of
+the wonderful impression which is produced, when he describes his
+interview with the weird sisters&mdash;the terrors which accompanied their
+appearance, and the feelings which their predictions awakened, we are
+persuaded that the effect must be much finer than any thing which can
+result from the feeble attempt to represent all this to the eye.
+Macbeth, however, without the witches, and all the clumsy machinery
+which is employed on the stage to carry through so impracticable a
+scene, would appear stripped of its principal beauties to the taste of a
+great part of an English audience; and yet we are perfectly convinced,
+that there is no one imperfection, in the plan or composition of the
+French tragedies, so deserving of censure, as the taste which can admit
+such representations on the stage. We allude, of course, entirely to the
+attempt to introduce this celebrated scene upon the stage; none can
+admire more than we do, the powerful and creative imagination which it
+displays.</p>
+
+<p>3. The next circumstance to which we allude, is that very remarkable
+one&mdash;of the dignity of sentiment, and elevation of thought, which
+uniformly characterise the compositions of the French stage. This is a
+perfection which, we believe, has never been denied by any one who is in
+any degree acquainted with these productions; and therefore we are
+anxious, as that very excellence has sometimes been thought to unfit
+them for actual representation, merely to state, from our own
+experience, the very great impression which such lofty and dignified
+sentiments, in the composition of the play, are fitted to produce. For
+ourselves we can say, that no dramatic representation on the English
+stage produced the same permanent effect with some of the greater
+compositions of the French tragedy; and we cannot but consider much of
+their influence to be owing to the sublime and elevating sentiments with
+which they abound. We could wish to see the tone of the tragedies which
+are <i>now</i> presented for the English stage, animated by the same strain
+of dignified thought, and become more worthy of the approbation of a
+great, and enlightened, and virtuous people.</p>
+
+<p>Simple as these observations may appear, they yet suggest what we must
+consider as most important improvements in the composition and character
+of the English drama: The only tragedies which have been written for
+many years for our stage are, with a few exceptions, undeniably the
+feeblest productions in any branch of the national literature, and have
+in general carried, to the utmost extreme, the imperfections which
+existed in the works of those earlier writers whose genius and natural
+feeling they have never been able to equal. Whenever any change does
+occur in the character and tone of the tragedies of the English stage,
+we are persuaded that much will be gained by further acquaintance with
+the dramatic representations of the French theatre; and that the defects
+of our own theatre can only be avoided, by imitating some of the
+perfections of that drama, which we are accustomed at present so hastily
+to censure.</p>
+
+<p>We have only now to remark, that while the works of Corneille, of
+Racine, and Voltaire, must ever remain conspicuous in the French drama,
+we shall judge very erroneously of the present character of the French
+stage, if we are only acquainted with these compositions of earlier
+times. The consequences of the revolution have been felt in the tone of
+dramatic composition, as in every other branch of literature, and in
+every condition of society. The misfortunes which all classes of the
+people have sustained,&mdash;the anxiety, and suspence, and terror, which
+they so often felt, and the insecurity which so long seemed to attend
+every enjoyment of human life, accustomed them so much to scenes of deep
+interest, and to profound emotion, that it became necessary, in the
+theatre, to have recourse to more powerful means of exciting their
+compassion, and engaging their interest, than was always afforded by
+the tragedies of the old writers. The same change, then, which is
+observable in many other branches of the French literature of late
+years, seems to have taken place, to a considerable extent, in
+compositions for the stage; and from the serious and melancholy turn
+which was often given to the public mind, it has become requisite, in
+later writings, to introduce subjects of deeper interest, and more
+fitted to affect the imagination in moments of strong popular feeling,
+and of great national danger. Many of the reflections, therefore, which
+such circumstances suggested, have been introduced into the tragedies
+which have been composed during the very eventful period which has
+elapsed since the commencement of the revolution; and the authors have
+adapted, in a considerable degree, the interest, or the management of
+their plays, to those peculiar sentiments which the character of that
+period had given to the people. These sentiments may not always indicate
+very sound principle, or very elevated feeling, but, in the turn which
+has sometimes been given to the French plays, they are made to favour
+the introduction of much poetical beauty, and much dramatic interest. We
+have already mentioned, that there appears to be a vague, but general
+impression of the influence of <i>fatality</i> upon human conduct, floating
+in the public mind; and though such a notion, probably, is seldom
+admitted in the shape of a distinct doctrine, many circumstances
+indicate, that among the body of the people, and among the army in
+particular, the influence of this superstition is very considerable. It
+is appealed to in many of those political writings which best indicate
+the feelings of those to whom they are addressed; and we have all
+remarked how much and how artfully their late ruler availed himself of
+this belief, to connect the ascendancy of his arms, and the prosperity
+of his dynasty, with the destiny of human affairs. On several very
+important occasions, the utmost possible interest has been given to the
+history of particular characters, in many recent tragedies, by employing
+this powerful feeling in the public mind; and it was very apparent, that
+the spectators took peculiar interest in the denouement of the plays in
+which this subject was introduced.</p>
+
+<p>In the works of Ducis, of Raynouard, and of several other recent
+writers, and in many of the plays formed from tragedies of the German
+school, very strong indications are to be found of the effect of the
+circumstances in which the people have been placed, in giving, in some
+respects, a new tone to dramatic compositions, and in calling forth
+productions of deeper interest, and capable of exciting more profound
+emotion, than could generally be produced by the works of the earlier
+periods of French literature.</p>
+
+<p>It is an animating proof of the ascendancy of virtuous feeling, and a
+striking illustration of the tendency of great assemblies of men, when
+not actuated by particular passions, to join in what is generous and
+elevated in human thought, that not only have the tragedies of the
+earlier writers continued to be universally admired, and constantly
+acted during the whole period of the revolution, but that the standard
+of sentiment has not been lowered in those productions which have been
+designed expressly for the French stage during that period, and that the
+dignity of ancient virtue, and the elevation of natural feeling, still
+ennoble the tone of French tragedy.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The French comedies and comic acting are not less characteristic of the
+people than their tragedies. They are a gay and lively, but not a
+humorous people. A Frenchman enters into amusements with an eagerness
+and relish, of which, in this country, we have no conception; all his
+cares and sorrows are forgotten; all his serious occupations are
+postponed; all his unruly passions are calmed;&mdash;he thinks neither of his
+individual misfortunes, nor of his national degradation; neither of the
+friends whom he has lost in the war, nor of the foreign soldiers whom it
+has placed at his elbow; his whole soul is absorbed in the game, in the
+dance, or in the <i>spectacle</i>. But his object is not laughter, or passive
+enjoyment, or relaxation; it is the excitation of his spirits, the
+occupation, and interest, and agitation of his mind, the varied
+gratification of his senses, the exercise of his fancy, the display of
+his wit, and taste, and politeness.</p>
+
+<p>The exhibitions at the theatres are accommodated to this taste. With the
+exception of some of Moliere's works, such as the Bourgeois Gentilhomme,
+and M. de Pourceaugnac, (which are seldom acted, at least at the Theatre
+Français), there are hardly any French comedies which are characterised
+by what we call humour,&mdash;which have for their main object the
+representation of palpably ludicrous peculiarities of character and
+manner. You never hear, in a French theatre, the same loud
+uncontrollable bursts of laughter, which are so often excited by
+representations of this kind in London. There are no such actors, at the
+principal theatres, as Matthews, or Liston, or Bannister, or Munden, or
+Emery, whose principal merit lies in mimicry and buffoonery. There are
+hardly any entertainments corresponding in character to our farces; the
+after-pieces are short comedies, and characters in low life are
+introduced into them, not as objects of derision, but of interest and
+sympathy.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, operas and genteel comedies, which are esteemed only
+by the higher ranks in England, are a favourite amusement of all ranks
+in France. The qualities which are most highly prized in the comedies,
+are, interest and variety of incident and situation, wit and liveliness
+of dialogue, and a certain elevation and elegance of character.</p>
+
+<p>Regarding the character of the French tragedies, there will always be
+much difference of opinion; and many, probably, of those who have had
+the best opportunities of studying them, as performed upon the stage at
+Paris, may yet retain nearly the same judgment concerning them which
+they formed in reading them in the closet. And we are willing to admit,
+that admirable as they appear to us in many respects, they are not well
+adapted to become popular in this country. But the excellencies and
+unrivalled elegance of the French comedy, have been at all times
+universally admitted, while there is this great distinction between
+them and the tragedies of the French school, that however great the
+pleasure we may take in reading them, no one ever saw them well
+performed, without acknowledging, that until then, he had no conception
+of the astonishing field which they afford for the display of the
+actor's power, or of the innumerable charms which they possess as
+dramatic compositions.</p>
+
+<p>Everything that ever was amiable and engaging in the character of the
+French people; the elegance and <i>bon-hommie</i> of their manners, which
+served as a passport to the French in every country in Europe, and
+softened the feelings of national resentment with which their ambition
+and their arrogance to other nations had taught many to regard them as a
+people; their well-known superiority to other nations in those
+circumstances, which render them agreeable and pleasant in society, in
+their constant attention and accommodation to the wishes and pursuits of
+others, in that anxiety to please, to entertain, and to promote the
+interests and happiness of others, which costs so little to those who
+are never subject to that unhappy irregularity of temper and spirit, so
+visible to all foreigners in the character of the English people, and
+which never fails to secure esteem, and to interest the affections,
+while superior worth, less happily gifted for the common purposes and
+intercourse of life, may be regarded with no warmer feeling than that of
+distant respect; the <i>loyauté</i> and frankness once so closely associated
+with the history and character of the French people; the manliness which
+taught them at once to admit and to repair the wrongs which their
+impetuosity of spirit, or their harshness of feeling, might have
+occasioned, and the gallantry with which they were wont to defend with
+their sword what their honour bound them to maintain; and above all,
+that delightful and touching <i>abandon</i> of feeling, which seemed the
+result of genuine simplicity, and which appeared to know no reserve,
+only because it knew no guilt; all these beautiful and interesting
+traits, which adorned the character of former and of later days, are
+still preserved in the comedies of their greater writers; the purity of
+former character seems to animate the pages which they write, and the
+spirit of earlier times seems yet to retain its ascendancy, when they
+wish to pourtray the manners of the present day.</p>
+
+<p>In the degradation of the present period, they delight to recall the
+splendour and the renown of the period that is past; and, by preserving
+in their works the character which adorned the French people before the
+profligacy and the insidious policy of a corrupt court disarmed the
+nation of its virtue, to reconcile it to slavery, they attempt to awaken
+a nobler spirit, and lay the foundation of future grandeur. Whatever has
+delighted us in reading the history of the earlier periods of the French
+monarchy, when the elevation of chivalrous feeling, and the
+disinterestedness of simple manners, distinguished the French people,
+and when the character of the great Henry displayed, in a more
+conspicuous station, the virtues which ennobled the duties of private
+life, is yet to be found in their best comedies. Among the many
+thousands who crowd to their numerous theatres, there are many, one
+would hope, who can feel the sad contrast which the last century of
+French history, "fertile only in crime," presents to the honour of
+former times, and in whom may be reviving that lofty and generous spirit
+which may yet redeem the character they have lost.</p>
+
+<p>It seems not a little singular, that this taste in comedy should have
+survived all the disorders of the revolution, and remained unchanged
+amid the general diffusion of military habits and manners. This may be
+partly explained by the circumstance, that the judges by whom theatrical
+exhibitions are mainly regulated, are stationary at Paris, while the
+men, whose actions have stamped the French character of the present day,
+have been dispersed over the world. But it must certainly be admitted,
+that the <i>taste</i> of the French has not undergone an alteration
+corresponding with that which is so obvious in their <i>manners</i>; and has
+not degenerated to the degree that might have been expected, from the
+diffusion of revolutionary ideas and licentious habits. The Theatre
+Français affords perhaps the best specimen that now remains of the style
+of conversation, and manners, and costume, of the old school of French
+politeness.</p>
+
+<p>For the representation of pieces bearing the general character which we
+have described, the French are certainly better fitted than any other
+people,&mdash;their native gaiety and sprightliness of disposition,&mdash;the
+polish which their manners so readily acquire,&mdash;their irrepressible
+confidence and self-conceit,&mdash;their love of shewing off, and attracting
+attention, give really a stage effect to many of their serious actions,
+and to almost all their trifling conversation and amusements. Hence, a
+stranger is particularly struck with the uniform excellence of the comic
+acting on the French stage; all the inferior parts ate sustained with
+spirit, and originality, and discriminating judgment; all the actors are
+at their ease, and a regular genteel comedy is as well acted
+throughout, as a farce is on the London stage.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest comic actor at the Theatre Français is Fleury. He is an
+actor completely fitted for the French style of comedy. He gives you the
+idea of a perfect gentleman, with much wit and liveliness, and
+consummate confidence and self-possession; who delivers himself with
+inimitable archness and pleasantry, but without the least exaggeration
+or buffoonery; who has too high an opinion of himself and his powers, to
+descend to broad jokes or allusions belonging to the lower kinds of
+humour. Those who have an accurate recollection of the admirable acting
+of Irish Johnstone, in the characters of Major O'Flaherty, or Sir Lucius
+O'Trigger, will have a better conception, than any description of ours
+can convey, of the style of acting in which Fleury so eminently excels.</p>
+
+<p>Whatever may be thought of the other performers, none can see without
+pleasure the performances of that celebrated actress, who has so long
+been the ornament of the national theatre, and to whom the support of
+their comedy has been so long entrusted. During the greatest period of
+the revolution, Mademoiselle Mars has been the favourite and the
+delight of the people of Paris, and there is perhaps no feeling among
+them stronger, or more national, than the pride which they take in her
+incomparable acting; all the grace, and elegance, and genuine feeling
+which she so beautifully displays, they consider as belonging to her
+only because she is a French woman; and nothing would ever convince them
+that, had she been born in any other country, it would have been
+possible that she should possess half the perfections which they now
+admire in her.</p>
+
+<p>Mademoiselle Mars is probably as perfect an actress in comedy as any
+that ever appeared on any stage. She has united every advantage of
+countenance, and voice, and figure, which it is possible to conceive,
+and no one can ever have witnessed her incomparable acting, without
+feeling that the imagination can suggest nothing more completely
+lovely&mdash;more graceful, or more natural and touching than her
+representation of character. Mademoiselle Mars has been most exquisitely
+beautiful; and though the period is past when that beauty had all the
+brilliancy and freshness of youth, time appears hardly to have dared to
+lay his chilling hand on that lovely countenance, and she still acts
+characters which require all the naïveté, and gaiety, and tenderness of
+youthful feeling, with every appearance of the spring of human life. It
+is remarked by Cibber, that a woman has hardly time to become a perfect
+actress, during the continuance of her personal attractions. If there
+ever was an exception to this remark, Mademoiselle Mars is one. She was
+an admired actress, we were assured, before the revolution; yet she has
+still, at least on the stage, a light elegant figure, and a countenance
+of youthful animation and beauty, while long experience has given that
+polish and perfection to her acting, which can be derived from no other
+source.</p>
+
+<p>It were in vain to attempt describing the innumerable excellencies which
+render her acting so perfectly enchanting;&mdash;the admirable manner in
+which the French comedies are performed is so particular to the stage of
+that country, that it would be quite fruitless to attempt to describe a
+style of acting unknown to the people of Britain; and of that style
+Mademoiselle Mars is the model. Every thing that can result from the
+truest elegance and gracefulness of manners&mdash;from the most genuine and
+lively <i>abandon</i> of feeling,&mdash;from the most winning sweetness of
+expression, and the greatest imaginable gaiety and benevolence,
+displayed in one of the most beautiful women ever seen, and endowed with
+the most delightful and melodious voice, is united in Mademoiselle
+Mars; and all words were in vain, which would pretend to describe the
+bright and glittering vision which captivates the imagination. It is
+impossible to conceive any thing more perfect as a specimen of art, or
+more beautiful as an imitation of nature, than her representation of the
+kind of heroine most commonly to be found in a French comedy; lively and
+playful, yet elegant and graceful; entering with ardour into amusements,
+yet capable of deep feeling and serious reflection: fond of admiration
+and flattery, yet innocent and modest; full of petty artifice and
+coquetry, yet natural and unaffected in affairs of importance;
+capricious and giddy in appearance, but warm-hearted and affectionate in
+reality. It is a character to which there is a kind of approximation
+among many French women; and if it were as well supported by them in
+real life, as by her on the stage, it would be difficult even for French
+vanity to describe the fascination of their manner, in terms of
+admiration which would not command general assent. There is much
+variety, it must be added, in her powers. On one occasion, we saw her
+act Henriette in Les Femmes Savantes of Moliere, and Catau La Partie de
+Chasse de Henri IV, an£ it was difficult to say whether most to admire
+the wit, and elegance, and police raillery of the woman of fashion, or
+the innocent gaiety, and interesting naïveté of the simple peasant girl.</p>
+
+<p>There is no actress at present on the English stage of equal eminence in
+a similar line of parts. The exhibition which can best convey to an
+English reader some slight notion of her enchanting acting, is the
+manner in which Miss O'Neil performs the scene in Juliet with the old
+nurse; because it is probably exactly the manner in which Mademoiselle
+Mars would perform that scene, but cannot afford any conception of her
+excellence in scenes of higher interest and greater feeling. Mrs Jordan
+may have equalled her in gaiety, and probably excelled her in humorous
+expression, but we suspect she must always have been deficient in
+elegance and refinement. The actress who, we think, comes nearest to her
+in genteel comedy, is Mrs Henry Siddons, in her beautiful representation
+of such parts as Beatrice or Viola; but she has not the same appearance
+of natural light-hearted buoyancy and playfulness of disposition; you
+see occasional transient indications of a serious thoughtful turn of
+mind, which assumes gaiety and cheerfulness, rather than passes
+naturally into it; which you admire, because it places the actress in a
+more amiable light, but which takes off from the fidelity and perfection
+of her art.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever Mademoiselle Mars has acted, in every part of France, the
+enthusiasm which she inspires, and the astonishing interest which they
+take in her acting, is such as could be felt only in France. We were
+fortunately in Lyons when she came there, on leaving Paris during the
+course of last summer; and during the few days we were there, nothing
+appeared to be thought of but the merits of this unrivalled actress. The
+interest which the recent visit of <i>Madame</i> had created, was altogether
+lost in the delight which the performance of Mademoiselle Mars had
+occasioned: She was crowned publicly in the theatre with a garland of
+flowers, and a fete was celebrated in honour of her by the public bodies
+and authorities of the town.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">Corresponding to the Opera House in London, there are three theatres in
+Paris; the Odeon, the Opera Comique, and the Academie de Musique. At the
+first of these there is an immense company of musicians, of all kinds;
+and Italian Operas are admirably performed. It is the handsomest, and
+perhaps the most genteelly attended of any of the Parisian theatres.
+The music here, as well as the musicians, are all Italian; and there
+can certainly be no comparison between it and the French, which is
+generally feeble and insipid in pathetic expression, and extravagant and
+bombastic in all attempts at grandeur. The first singer at the Odeon was
+Madame Sessi, who has since been in London; but Madame Morelli, with a
+voice somewhat inferior in power, appeared to us a more elegant actress.
+The performance of Girard on the flute was wonderful, and met with
+extravagant applause, but it was somewhat too laboured and artificial
+for our untutored ears:</p>
+
+<p>The Opera Comique is confined almost exclusively to the sort of
+entertainment which the name expresses: the scenes are generally laid in
+the country, and the characters introduced are of the lower orders: the
+pieces commonly represented belong to the same class, therefore, as the
+English operas, Love in a Village, Rosina, &amp;c. but the dialogue is in
+general more animated, less vulgar in the lower parts, and less
+sentimental in the higher. The number of performers at this theatre is
+not very great; but there are some good singers and dancers, and the
+acting is almost uniformly excellent. Indeed, the French character is
+peculiarly well fitted for assuming the gay and lively tone that
+pervades their <i>opera buffa</i>, which may be characterised as amusing and
+interesting in general, rather than comic; as full of spirit and
+vivacity, rather than of humour. Occasionally, however, characters and
+incidents of true humour are introduced; but these are in general
+considered as belonging to a lower species of amusement; and are to be
+found in higher perfection, we believe, in some of the inferior
+theatres, particularly the Theatre des Varietés.</p>
+
+<p>The acting at the Opera Comique appeared to us deserving of the same
+encomiums with the comic acting at the Theatre Français: every part is
+well supported, not with the elegance that characterises the latter
+theatre, but with perfect adaptation to the situation of the characters.
+A Mademoiselle Regnaud, of this theatre, acts with admirable liveliness
+and spirit. Her quarrel and reconciliation with her lover, in "Le
+Nouveau Seigneur du Village," appeared to us a chef d'&#339;uvre of the light
+and pleasing style of acting, which suits the character of the French
+comic opera.</p>
+
+<p>The Academie de Musique, (which is celebrated for dancers, not for
+musicians), is on a very different plan from the opera in London. The
+performers being in part supported by government, the prices of
+admission are made very low; and the company, particularly in the
+parterre, or pit, is therefore of a much lower class than in London,
+though perfect decorum is, as usual, uniformly observed. The
+performances at this theatre are, we think, decidedly superior to those
+in the London opera. This superiority consists partly in the pre-eminent
+merits of the first-rate dancers; but chiefly in the uniform excellence
+of the vast number of inferior performers, the beauty of the scenery,
+and the complete knowledge of stage effect, which is displayed in all
+the arrangements of the representations.</p>
+
+<p>We believe there are not at present, on the London stage, any dancers of
+equal merit with Madame Gardel, or Mademoiselle Bigottini. The former of
+these is said to be 45 years of age, and has long been reckoned the best
+figuranté on this stage. Her face is not handsome, but her figure is
+admirably formed for the display of her art, of which she is probably
+the most perfect mistress to be found in Europe. The latter, an Italian
+by birth, is much younger, and if she does not yet quite equal her rival
+in artificial accomplishments, she at least attracts more admirers by
+her youth and beauty; by the exquisite symmetry of her form, and the
+natural grace and elegance of her movements. The one of these is
+certainly the first dancer, and the other is perhaps the most beautiful
+woman in Paris.</p>
+
+<p>But the same unfortunate peculiarity of taste which we formerly noticed
+in the painting and in the gardening of the French, extends to their
+opera dancing; indeed it may be said to be the worst feature of their
+general taste. They are too fond of the exhibition of art, and too
+regardless of the object, to which art should be made subservient.
+Dancing should never be considered as a mere display of agility and
+muscular power. It is then degraded to a level with Harlequin's tricks,
+wrestling, tumbling, or such other fashionable entertainments. The main
+object of the art unquestionably is, to display in full perfection the
+beauty and grace of the human form and movements. In so far as perfect
+command of the limbs is necessary, or may be made subservient to this
+object, it cannot be too much esteemed; but when you pass this limit, it
+not only ceases to be pleasing, but often becomes positively offensive.
+Many of the <i>pirouettes</i>, and other difficult movements, which are
+introduced into the <i>pas seuls, pas de deux</i>, &amp;c. in which the great
+dancers display their whole powers, however wonderful as specimens of
+art, are certainly any thing but elegant or graceful. The applause in
+the French opera seemed to us to be in direct proportion to the
+difficulty, and to bear no relation whatever to the beauty of the
+performances. A Frenchman regards, with perfect indifference, dances
+which, to a stranger at least, appear performed with inimitable grace,
+because they are only common dances, admirably well executed; but when
+one of the male performers, after spinning about for a long time, with
+wonderful velocity, arrests himself suddenly, and stands immoveable on
+one foot; or when one of the females wheels round on the toes of one
+foot, holding her other limb nearly in a horizontal position&mdash;he breaks
+out into extravagant exclamations of astonishment and delight: "Quel a
+plomb! Ah diable! Sacre Dieu!" &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>But although the principal dances at the Opera, and those on which the
+French chiefly pride themselves, are much injured, in point of beauty,
+by this artificial taste, the execution of the less laboured parts of
+these dances, and of nearly the whole of their common national dances,
+is quite free from this defect, and is, we should conceive, the most
+beautiful exhibition of the kind that is any where to be seen. It is
+only in a city where amusements of all kinds are sought for, not merely
+by way of relaxation, but as matters of serious interest and national
+concern, and where dancing, in particular, is an object of universal and
+passionate admiration, that such numbers of first-rate dancers can be
+found, as perform constantly at the Academie de Musique. The whole
+strength of the company there, which often appeared on the stage at the
+time we speak of, was certainly not less than 150; and there were hardly
+any of these whose performance was not highly pleasing, and did not
+present the appearance of animation and interest in the parts assigned
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the serious operas performed here are exceedingly beautiful;
+they are got up, not perhaps at more expense, nor with more
+magnificence, than the spectacles in London, but certainly with more
+taste and knowledge of stage effect. Tie scenery is beautifully painted,
+and is disposed upon the stage with more variety, and in such a manner
+as to form a more complete illusion, than on any other stage we have
+seen. The music and singing are certainly inferior to what is heard at
+the Odeon, but the acting, where it is not injured by the effect of the
+recitative, is very generally excellent; and the number and variety of
+dances introduced, afford opportunities of displaying all the
+attractions of this theatre.</p>
+
+<p>The pantomimes are uniformly executed with inimitable grace and effect.
+We were particularly pleased with that called L'Enfant Prodigue, in
+which the powers and graces of Mademoiselle Bigottini are displayed to
+all possible advantage. One of the most splendid of the serious operas,
+is that entitled Le Caravansera de Cairo, the scenery of which was
+painted in Egypt, by one of the artists who accompanied Napoleon
+thither, and is beyond comparison the most highly finished and beautiful
+that we have ever seen, and gives an idea of the aspect of that country,
+which no other work of art could convey. Another opera, which attracted
+our attention, was called "Ossian, ou les Bardes." One of the scenes,
+where the heroes and heroines of departed times are seen seated on the
+clouds, displayed a degree of magnificence which made it a fit
+representation of "the dream of Ossian." Some of the Highland scenery in
+this opera was really like nature; and the dresses, particularly the
+cambric and vandyked kilts, bore some distant analogy to the real
+costume of the Highlanders; and although we could not gratify the
+Parisians who sat by us, by admitting the resemblance of the female
+figures, who skipped about the stage with single muslin petticoats, and
+pink and white kid slippers, to the "Montagnardes Ecossaises <i>c'est a
+dire demi-sauvages</i>," whom they were intended to represent, we at least
+flattered their vanity, by expressing our wish that the latter had
+resembled the former.</p>
+
+<p>But the most beautiful of all the exhibitions at the Academie de
+Musique, are the ballets which represent pastoral scenes and rural
+fetes, such as Colinette a la Cour, L'Epreuve Villageoise, &amp;c. It is
+singular, that in a city, the inhabitants of which have so entire a
+contempt for rural enjoyments, pieces of this kind should form so
+favourite a theatrical entertainment; but it must be confessed, that
+such scenes as form the subject of these ballets, occur but seldom in
+the course of a country life, and never in the degree of perfection in
+which they are represented in Paris. The union of rustic simplicity and
+innocence, with the polish and refinement which are acquired by
+intercourse with the world, may be conceived by the help of these
+exhibitions, but can hardly be witnessed in real life. The illusion,
+however, when such scenes are exhibited, is exceedingly pleasing; and no
+where certainly is this illusion so perfect as in the Academie de
+Musique, where the charming scenery, the enlivening music, the number
+and variety of characters, which are supported with life and spirit, the
+beauty of the female performers, and the graceful movements, and lively
+animated air of all;&mdash;if they do not recall to the spectator any thing
+which he has really witnessed, seem to transport him into the more
+delightful regions in which his fancy has occasionally wandered, and to
+realize for a moment to him, those fairy scenes to which his youthful
+imagination had been familiarized, by the beautiful fictions of poetry
+or romance.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">The Parisian theatres are at all times sources of much amusement and
+delight; but at the time of which we speak, they were doubly
+interesting, as affording opportunities of seeing the most distinguished
+characters of this eventful age; and as furnishing occasional strong
+indications of the state of popular feeling in France. The interest of
+occurrences of this last kind is now gone by, and it is almost
+unnecessary for us to bear testimony to the strong party that uniformly
+manifested itself when any sentiment was uttered expressive of a wish
+for war, of admiration of martial achievements, and of indignation at
+foreign influence, or domestic perfidy, (under which head the conduct of
+Talleyrand and of Marmont was included); and more especially, when the
+success, and glory, and <i>eternal, immutable, untarnished</i> honour of
+France, were the theme of declamation. The applause at passages of this
+last description seemed sometimes ludicrous enough, when the theatres
+were guarded by Russian grenadiers, and nearly half filled with allied
+officers, loaded with honours which had been won in combating the French
+armies.</p>
+
+<p>The majority of the audience, however, appeared always delighted at the
+change of government, and in the opera in particular, the first time
+that the King appeared, the expression of loyalty was long, reiterated,
+and enthusiastic, far beyond our most sanguine anticipations. It would
+have been absurd to judge of the real feelings of the majority of the
+Parisians, still more of the nation at large, from this scene; and it
+was certainly not to be wished, that a blind and devoted loyalty to one
+sovereign should take the place of infatuated attachment to another; yet
+it was impossible not to sympathize with the joy of people who had been
+agitated, during the best part of their lives, by political convulsions,
+or oppressed by military tyranny, but who fancied themselves at length
+relieved from both; and who connected the hope of spending the
+remainder of their days in tranquillity and peace, with the
+recollections which they had received from their fathers, of the
+happiness and prosperity of their country under the long line of its
+ancient kings. It was impossible to hear the national air of "Vive Henri
+Quatre," and the enthusiastic acclamations which accompanied it, without
+entering for the moment into the feeling of unhesitating attachment, and
+unqualified loyalty, which has so long prevailed in most countries of
+the world, but which the citizens of a free country should indulge only
+when it has been deserved by long experience and tried virtue.</p>
+
+<p>It was with different, but not less interesting feelings, that we
+listened to the same tune from the splendid bands of the Russian and
+Prussian guards, as they passed along the Boulevards; on their return to
+their own countries; It was a grand and moving spectacle of political
+virtue, to see the armies which had been arrayed against France,
+striving to do honour to the government which she had assumed:&mdash;instead
+of breathing curses, or committing outrages on the great and guilty
+city, which had provoked all their vengeance, to see them march out of
+the gates of Paris with the regularity of the strictest military
+discipline, to the sound of the grand national air, which spoke "peace
+to her walls, and prosperity to her palaces,"&mdash;leaving, as it were, a
+blessing on the capital which they had conquered and forgiven: It was a
+scene that left an impression on the mind worthy of the troops who had
+bravely and successfully opposed the domineering power of France,&mdash;who
+had struggled with it when it was strongest, and "ruled it when 'twas
+wildest," but who spared it when it was fallen;&mdash;who forgot their wrongs
+when it was in their power to revenge them;&mdash;who cast the laurels from
+their brows, as they passed before the rightful monarch of France, and
+honoured him as the representative of a great and gallant people, long
+beguiled by ambition, and abused by tyranny, but now acknowledging their
+errors, and professing moderation and repentance.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">PARIS&mdash;THE FRENCH ARMY AND IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">I</span><span class="smcap">t</span>
+is certainly a mistake to suppose, that the military power of France
+was first created by Napoleon, or that military habits were actually
+forced on the people, with the view of aiding his ambitious projects.
+The French have a restless, aspiring, enterprising spirit, not
+accompanied, as in England, by a feeling of individual importance, and a
+desire of individual independence, but modified by habits of submission
+to arbitrary power, and fitted, by the influence of despotic government,
+for the subordination of military discipline. Add to this, the
+encouragement which was held out by the rapid promotion of soldiers
+during the wars of the revolution, when the highest military offices
+were not only open to the attainment, but were generally appropriated to
+the claims of men who rose from the ranks; and the general
+dissemination, at that period, of an unbounded desire for violence and
+rapine: And it will probably be allowed, that the spirit of the French
+nation, at the time when he came to the head of it, was truly and almost
+exclusively military. He was himself a great soldier; he rose to the
+supreme government of a great military people, and he availed himself of
+their habits and principles to gratify his ambition, and extend his
+fame; but he ought not to be charged with having created the spirit,
+which in fact created him; a spirit so powerful, and so extensively
+diffused, that in comparison with it, even his efforts might be said to
+be "dashing with his oar to hasten the cataract;" to be "waving with his
+fan to give speed to the wind." The favourite saying of Napoleon, "Every
+Frenchman is a soldier, and as such, at the disposal of the Emperor,"
+expresses a principle which was not merely enforced by arbitrary power,
+but engrafted on the character and habits of the French people.</p>
+
+<p>The French are certainly admirably fitted for becoming soldiers: they
+have a restless activity, which surmounts difficulties, a buoyancy and
+elasticity of disposition, which rises superior to hardships, and
+calamities, and privations, not with patient fortitude, but with ease
+and cheerfulness. A Frenchman does not regard war, merely as the serious
+struggle in which his patriotism and valour are to be tried; he loves it
+for its own sake, for the interest and agitation it gives to his mind;
+it is his "game,&mdash;his gain,&mdash;his glory,&mdash;his delight." Other nations of
+Europe have become military, in consequence of threats or injuries, of
+the dread of hostile invasion, of the presence of foreign armies, or the
+galling influence of foreign power; but if the origin of the French
+military spirit may be traced to similar sources, it must at least be
+allowed, that the effect has been out of all proportion to the cause.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable, however, that the effervescence of military ideas and
+feelings, which arose out of the revolution, would have gradually
+subsided, had it not been for the fostering influence of the imperial
+government. The turbulent and irregular energies of a great people let
+loose from former bonds, received a fixed direction, and were devoted to
+views of military ascendancy and national aggrandizement under Napoleon.
+The continued gratification of the French vanity, by the fame of
+victories and the conquest of nations, completed the effect on the
+manner and habits of the people, which the events of the revolution had
+begun. Napoleon well knew, that in flattering this ruling propensity, he
+took the whole French nation on their weak side, and he had some reason
+for saying, that their thirst for martial glory and political influence
+ought to be a sufficient apology to them for all the wars into which he
+plunged them.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to spend even a few days in France without seeing
+strong indications of the prevailing love of military occupations, and
+admiration of military merit. The common peasants in the fields shew, by
+their conversation, that they are deeply interested in the glory of the
+French arms, and competent to discuss the manner in which they are
+conducted. In the parts of the country which had been the seat of war,
+we found them always able to give a good general description of the
+military events that had taken place; and when due allowance was made
+for their invariable exaggeration of the number of the allied troops,
+and concealment of that of the French, these accounts, as far as we
+could judge by comparing them with the official details, and with the
+information of officers who had borne a part in the campaign, were
+tolerably correct. The fluency with which they talked of military
+operations, of occupying positions, cutting off retreats, defiling over
+bridges, debouching from woods, advancing and retreating, marching and
+bivouacking, shewed the habitual current of their thoughts; and they
+were always more willing to enter on the details of such operations,
+than to enumerate their own losses, or dwell on their individual
+sufferings.</p>
+
+<p>A similar eagerness to enter into conversation on military subjects, was
+observable in almost all Frenchmen of the lower orders, with whom we had
+any dealings. Our landlord at Paris, a quiet sickly man, who had no
+connection with the army, and who had little to say for himself on most
+subjects, displayed a marvellous fluency on military tactics; and seemed
+to think that no time was lost which was employed in haranguing to us on
+the glory and honour of the French army, and impressing on our minds its
+superiority to the allies.</p>
+
+<p>Indeed, the whole French nation certainly take a pride in the deeds of
+their brethren in arms, which absorbs almost all other feelings; and
+which is the more singular, as it does not appear to us to be connected
+with strong or general affection or gratitude for any particular
+individual. It was not the fame of any one General but the general
+honour of the French arms, about which they seemed anxious. We never met
+with a Frenchman, of any rank, or of any political persuasion, who
+considered the French army as fairly overcome in the campaign of 1814;
+and the shifts and contrivances by which they explained all the events
+of the campaign, without having recourse to that supposition, were
+wonderfully ingenious. The best informed Frenchmen whom we met in Paris,
+even those who did not join in the popular cry of treason and corruption
+against Marmont, regarded the terms granted by Alexander to their city,
+as a measure of policy rather than of magnanimity. They uniformly
+maintained, that the possession of the heights of Belleville and
+Montmartre did not secure the command of Paris: that if Marmont had
+chosen, he might have defended the town after he had lost these
+positions; and that, if the Russians had attempted to take the town by
+force, they might have succeeded, but would have lost half their army.
+Indeed, so confidently were these propositions maintained by all the
+best informed Frenchmen, civil or military, royalist of imperialist,
+whom we met, that we were at a loss whether to give credit to the
+statement uniformly given us by the allied officers, that the town was
+completely commanded by those heights, and might have been burnt and
+destroyed, without farther risk on the part of the assailants, after
+they were occupied. The English officers, with whom we had an
+opportunity of conversing on this subject, seemed divided in opinion
+regarding it; and we should have hesitated to which party to yield our
+belief, had not the conduct of Napoleon and his officers in the campaign
+of the present year, the extraordinary precautions which they took to
+prevent access to the positions in question, by laying the adjacent
+country under water, and fortifying the heights themselves, clearly
+shewn the importance, in a military point of view, which is really
+attached to them.</p>
+
+<p>The credulity of the French, in matters connected with the operations of
+their armies, often astonished us. It appeared to arise, partly from the
+scarcity of information in the country; from their having no means of
+confirming, correcting, or disproving the exaggerated and garbled
+statements which were laid before them; and partly from their national
+vanity, which disposed them to yield a very easy assent to every thing
+that exalted their national character. In no other country, we should
+conceive, would such extravagant and manifestly exaggerated statements
+be swallowed, as the French soldiers are continually in the habit of
+dispersing among their countrymen. From the style of the conversation
+which we were accustomed to hear at <i>caffés</i> and <i>tables d'hôte</i>, we
+should conceive, that the French bulletins, which appeared to us such
+models of gasconade, were admirably well fitted, not merely to please
+the taste, but even to regulate the belief, or at least the professions
+of belief, of the majority of French politicians, with regard to the
+events they commemorate.</p>
+
+<p>The general interest of a nation in the deeds and honours of its army,
+is the best possible security for its general conduct; and it must be
+admitted, that in those qualities which are chiefly valued by the French
+nation, the French army was never surpassed; while it is equally
+obvious, that both the army and the people have at present little regard
+for some of the finest virtues which can adorn the character of
+soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>The grand characteristic of the French army, on which both the soldiers
+and the people pride themselves, is what was long ago ably pointed out
+by the author of the "Caractere des Armées Europeennes Actuelles"&mdash;the
+individual intelligence and activity of the soldiers. They were taken
+at that early age, when the influence of previous habit is small, and
+when the character is easily moulded into any form that is wished; they
+were accustomed to pride themselves on no qualities, but those which are
+serviceable against their enemies, and they had before them the most
+animating prospect of rewards and promotion, if their conduct was
+distinguished. Under these circumstances, the native vigour, and
+activity, and acuteness of their minds, took the very direction which
+was likely, not merely to make them good soldiers, but to fit them for
+becoming great officers; and this ultimate destination of his
+experience, and ability, and valour, has a very manifest effect on the
+mind of the French soldier. We hardly ever spoke to one of them, of any
+rank, about any of the battles in which he had been engaged, without
+observing, that he had in his head a general plan of the action, which
+he always delivered to us with perfect fluency, in the technical
+language of war, and with quite as much exaggeration as was necessary
+for his purpose. What he wanted in correct information, he would
+assuredly make up with lies, but he would seldom fail to give a general
+consistent idea of the affair; and it was obvious, that the man&#339;uvres
+of the armies, and the conduct of the generals, on both sides, had
+occupied as much of his consideration and reflection, as his own
+individual dangers and adventures.</p>
+
+<p>When we afterwards entered into conversation with some English private
+soldiers, at Brussels and Antwerp, concerning the actions they had seen,
+we perceived a very marked difference. They were very ready to enter
+into details concerning all that they had themselves witnessed, and very
+anxious to be perfectly correct in their statements; but they did not
+appear ever to have troubled their heads about the general plan of the
+actions. They had abundance of technical phrases concerning their own
+departments of the service; but very few words relative to the
+man&#339;uvring of large bodies of men. Their rule seemed to be, to do their
+own duty, and let their officers do theirs; the principle of the
+division of labour seemed to prevail in military, as well as in civil
+affairs, much more extensively in England than in France.</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers of the French imperial guard, in particular, are remarkably
+intelligent, and in general very communicative. We entered into
+conversation with some of these men at La Fere, and from one of them,
+who had been in the great battle at Laon, we had fully as distinct an
+account of that action as we are able to collect, the next day, from
+several officers who accompanied us from St Quentin to Cambray, and who
+had likewise been engaged in it. When we asked him the numbers of the
+two armies on that day, he replied without the least hesitation, that
+the allied army was 100,000 and the French 30,000.&mdash;Another of these men
+had been at Salamanca, and after we had granted his fundamental
+assumption, that the English army there was 120,000 strong, and the
+French 40,000, he proceeded to give us a very good account of the
+battle.</p>
+
+<p>These men, as well as almost all the French officers and soldiers with
+whom we had opportunities at different times of conversing, gave their
+opinions of the allied armies without any reserve, and with considerable
+discrimination. Of the Russians and Prussians they said, "Ils savent
+bien faire la guerre; ils sont de bons soldats;" but of the common
+soldiers of these services in particular, they said, "Ils sont tres
+forts, et durs comme l'ame du diable&mdash;mais ils sont des veritables
+betes; ils n'ont point d'intelligence. La puissance de l'armée
+Française," they added, with an air of true French gasconade, "est dans
+l'intelligence des soldats."&mdash;Of the Austrians, they said, "Ils brillent
+dans leur cavalerie, mais pour leur infanterie, elle ne vaut rien."</p>
+
+<p>From these soldiers we could extract no more particular character of the
+English troops, than "Ils se battent bien," But it is doing no more than
+justice to the French officers, even such as were decidedly imperialist,
+who conversed with us at Paris, and in different parts of the country,
+to acknowledge that they uniformly spoke in the highest terms of the
+conduct of the English troops. The expression which they very commonly
+used, in speaking of the manner in which the English carried on the war
+in Spain, and in France, was, "loyauté." "Les Russes, et les Prussiens,"
+they said, "sont des grands et beauxhommes, mais ils n'ont pas le c&#339;ur
+ou la loyauté des Anglais. Les Anglais sont la nation du monde qui font
+la guerre avec le plus de loyauté," &amp;c. This referred partly to their
+valour in the field, and partly to their humane treatment of prisoners
+and wounded; and partly also to their honourable conduct in France,
+where they preserved the strictest discipline, and paid for every thing
+they took. Of the behaviour of the English army in France, they always
+spoke as excellent:&mdash;"digne de leur civilization."</p>
+
+<p>A French officer who introduced himself to us one night in a box at the
+opera, expressing his high respect for the English, against whom, he
+said, he had the honour to fight for six years in Spain, described the
+steadiness and determination of the English infantry in attacking the
+heights on which the French army was posted at Salamanca, in terms of
+enthusiastic admiration. Another who had been in the battle of Toulouse,
+extolled the conduct of the Highland regiments in words highly
+expressive of</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"The stern joy which warriors feel,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">In foemen worthy of their steel."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>"Il y a quelques regimens des Ecossais sans culottes," said he, "dans
+l'armée de Wellington, qui se battent joliment." He then described the
+conduct of one regiment in particular, (probably the 42d or 79th), who
+attacked a redoubt defended with cannon, and marched up to it in perfect
+order; never taking the muskets from their shoulders, till they were on
+the parapet: "Si tranquillement,&mdash;sacre Dieu! c'etoit superbe."</p>
+
+<p>Of the military talents of the Duke of Wellington they spoke also with
+much respect, though generally with strong indications of jealousy. They
+were often very ingenious in devising means of explaining his
+victories, without compromising, as they called it, the honour of the
+French arms. At Salamanca, they said, that in consequence of the wounds
+of Marmont and other generals, their army was two hours without a
+commander. At Vittoria again, it was commanded by Jourdan, and any body
+could beat Jourdan. At Talavera, he committed "les plus grandes sottises
+du monde; il a fait une contre-marche digne d'un bete." Some of the Duke
+of Wellington's victories over Soult they stoutly denied, and others
+they ascribed to great superiority of numbers, and to the large drafts
+of Soult's best troops for the purpose of forming skeleton battalions,
+to receive the conscripts of 1813.</p>
+
+<p>The French pride themselves greatly on the <i>honour</i> of their soldiers,
+and in this quality they uniformly maintain that they are unrivalled, at
+least on the continent of Europe. To this it is easy to reply, that,
+according to the common notions of honour, it has been violated more
+frequently and more completely by the French army than by any other. But
+this is in fact eluding the observation rather than refuting it. The
+truth appears to be, that the French <i>soldiers</i> have a stronger sense of
+honour than those of almost any other service; but that the <i>officers</i>,
+having risen from the ranks, have brought with them to the most exalted
+stations, no more refined or liberal sentiments than those by which the
+private soldiers are very frequently actuated; and have, on the
+contrary, acquired habits of duplicity and intrigue, from which their
+brethren in inferior situations are exempt.</p>
+
+<p>When we say of the French soldiers that they have a strong sense of
+honour, we mean merely to express, that they will encounter dangers, and
+hardships, and privations, and calamities of every kind, with wonderful
+fortitude, and even cheerfulness, from no other motive than an <i>esprit
+du corps</i>&mdash;a regard for the character of the French arms. Without
+provocation from their enemies, without the prospect of plunder, without
+the hope of victory, without the conviction of the interest of their
+country in their deeds, without even the consolation of expecting care
+or attention in case of wounds or sickness,&mdash;they will not hesitate to
+lavish their blood, and sacrifice their lives, <i>for the glory of
+France</i>. Other troops go through similar scenes of suffering and danger
+with equal fortitude, when under the influence of strong passions, when
+fired by revenge, or animated by the hope of plunder, or cheered by the
+acclamations of victory; but with the single exception of the British
+army, we doubt whether there are any to whom the mere spirit of military
+honour is of itself so strong a stimulus.</p>
+
+<p>We have already noticed the state of the French sick and wounded, left
+in the hospitals at Wilna during the retreat from Russia; a state so
+deplorable, as to have excited the strongest commiseration among their
+indignant enemies. This, however, was but a single instance of the
+system almost uniformly acted on, we have understood, by the French
+medical staff in Russia, Germany, and Spain, of deserting their
+hospitals on the approach of the enemy, so as to leave to him, if he did
+not chuse to see the whole of the patients perish before his eyes, the
+burden of maintaining them. The miseries which this system must have
+occasioned, in the campaign of 1813 in particular, require no
+illustration.</p>
+
+<p>Another regulation of the French army, during the campaign of that year,
+will shew the utter carelessness of its leaders, in regard to the lives
+or comforts of the soldiers. When the men who were incapacitated for
+service by wounds or disease, were sent back to France, they were
+directed, in the first instance, to Mentz, where their uniforms, and any
+money they might have about them, were regularly taken from them, and
+given to the young conscripts who were passing through to join the
+armies; they were then dressed in miserable old rags, which were
+collected in the adjacent provinces by Jews employed for that purpose,
+and in this state they were sent to <i>beg</i> their way to their homes.
+Such, as we were assured by some of our countrymen, who saw many of
+these men passing through Verdun, was the reward of thousands of the
+"<i>grande nation</i>" who had lost their limbs or their health in vainly
+endeavouring to maintain the glory and influence of their country in
+foreign states. In the campaign of 1814, which was carried on during the
+continuance of a frost of almost unprecedented intensity, and in so
+rapid and variable a manner, and with so large bodies of troops, as to
+prevent the establishment of regular hospitals or of any thing like a
+regular Commissariat, the French troops, particularly the young
+conscripts and national guards, suffered dreadfully; and numbers of them
+who escaped the swords of their enemies, perished miserably or were
+disabled for life, in consequence of hardships, and fatigues, and
+privations.</p>
+
+<p>All these examples were known to the French soldiers&mdash;they took place
+daily before their eyes, and, in the last instance, the allies took
+pains to let them know, that the only obstacle to honourable peace was
+the obstinacy of their commander; yet their ardour continued unabated;
+the young soldiers displayed a degree of valour in every action of both
+campaigns, which drew forth the warm applause even of their enemies; and
+it is not to be doubted, that the troops whom Napoleon collected at
+Fontainbleau, at the end of the campaign in France, were
+enthusiastically bent on carrying into effect the frantic resolution of
+attacking Paris, then occupied by a triple force of the allies, from
+which his officers with difficulty dissuaded him.</p>
+
+<p>In like manner, there is probably no general but Napoleon, who would not
+have attempted to terminate the miseries of the army during the retreat
+from Moscow, by entering into negotiation with the Russians; nor is
+there any army but the French which would have tamely consented to be
+entirely sacrificed to the obstinacy of an individual. But to have
+concluded a convention with the Russians would have been <i>compromising
+the honour of the French arms</i>; and this little form of words seemed to
+strike more terror to the hearts of the French soldiers, than either the
+swords of the Russians, or the dreary wastes and wintry storms of
+Russia, which might have been apostrophised in the words of the poet,</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Alas! even your unhallowed breath</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">May spare the victim fallen low,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">But man will ask no truce to death,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">No bounds to human woe."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>"He saw, without emotion, (says Labaume), the miserable remains of an
+army, lately so powerful, defile before him; yet his presence never
+excited a murmur; on the contrary, it animated even the most timid, who
+were always tranquil when in presence of the emperor." At the present
+moment, from all the accounts that we have received, as well as from our
+own observations of those French soldiers whom we have ourselves seen
+after their return from Moscow, the sentiments of the survivors of that
+expedition with regard to Napoleon remained unchanged; and no person who
+has read any of the narratives of the campaign can ascribe their
+constancy to any other cause, than that feeling of attachment to the
+glory of their country, to which the French, however improperly, give
+the name of military honour.</p>
+
+<p>If the character of the French soldiers is deserving of high admiration
+for their constancy and courage, it must be observed, on the other
+hand, that there is a mixture of <i>selfishness</i> in it, an utter disregard
+of the feelings, and indifference as to the sufferings, not merely of
+their enemies, or of the inhabitants of the countries which they
+traverse, but even of their best friends and companions, which forbids
+us to go farther in their praise. It is as unnecessary, as it would be
+painful, to enter on an enumeration of the instances of wanton cruelty,
+violence, and rapacity, which have sullied the fame of their most
+brilliant deeds in arms. It will be long before the French name will
+recover the disgrace which the remembrance of such scenes as Moscow, or
+Saragossa, or Tarragona, has attached to it, in every country of Europe;
+and it is impossible to have a more convincing proof of the tyrannical
+and oppressive conduct of the French armies in foreign states, than the
+universal enthusiasm with which Europe has risen against them,&mdash;the
+indignant and determined spirit with which all ranks of every country
+have united to rid themselves of an oppression, not less galling to
+their individual feelings, than degrading to their national character.
+But it is particularly worthy of remark, that the latest and most
+authentic writers in France itself, who have given any account of the
+French armies, have, noticed selfishness, and disregard of the feelings
+of their own comrades, as well as of all other persons, as one of the
+most prominent features of their character. We need only refer to
+Labaume's book on the expedition to Russia, to Miot's work on the
+Egyptian campaigns, or to Rocca's history of the war in Spain, for ample
+proofs of the correctness of this observation. Whether this peculiarity
+is to be ascribed chiefly to their national character, or to the nature
+of the services in which they have been engaged, it is not very easy to
+decide.</p>
+
+<p>The dishonourable conduct of the French officers, particularly of the
+superior officers, in the present year, is much more easily explained
+than excused. They had risen from the ranks&mdash;they had been engaged all
+their lives in active and iniquitous services&mdash;they had been accustomed
+to look to success as the best criterion of merit, and to regard
+attachment to their leaders and their colours, as the only duties of
+soldiers;&mdash;they had never thought seriously on morality or
+religion&mdash;they had been applauded by their countrymen and
+fellow-soldiers, for actions in direct violation of both&mdash;and they had
+been taught to consider that applause as their highest honour and
+legitimate reward. Under these circumstances, it is easy to see, that
+they could have little information with regard to the true interests of
+France, and that they would regard the most sacred engagements as
+binding only in so far as general opinion would reprobate the violation
+of them; and when a strong party shewed itself, in the nation as well as
+the army, ready to support them and to extol their conduct in rising
+against the government, that their oaths would have no influence to
+restrain them. It is to be considered, likewise, that a large proportion
+of the officers had been originally republicans. They had been engaged
+in long and active military service, and been elated with military
+glory; in the multiplicity of their duties, and the intoxication of
+their success as soldiers, they had ceased to be citizens; but during
+the repose that succeeded the establishment of the Bourbons, when they
+again found themselves in the midst of their countrymen, their original
+political feelings and prejudices returned, embittered and exasperated
+by the influence of their military habits, and the remembrance of their
+military disgraces. We have ourselves conversed with several officers,
+who were strongly attached to Napoleon, but whose political views were
+decidedly republican; and have heard it stated, that the officers of
+artillery and engineers are supposed to be particularly democratic in
+their principles.</p>
+
+<p>It is much easier to account for the conduct of the French army since
+the dethronement of Napoleon, than to point out any means by which that
+conduct could have been altered. It was stated to us at Paris, that the
+number of military officers to be provided for by government, was
+upwards of 60,000. These would certainly comprise a very large
+proportion of the talents and enterprise of the French nation. The
+number of them that can have been sincerely devoted to the Bourbons, or
+that can have been otherwise disposed of since that time, cannot be
+great; nor do we see by what means it will be possible to reconcile the
+majority of this very important class of men, to a government which has
+twice owed its elevation to the discomfiture and humiliation of the
+French arms.</p>
+
+<p>It may be easily conceived, that in an army, the officers of which have,
+for the most part, risen from the ranks, the principles of strict
+military subordination cannot be enforced with the same punctilious
+rigour as in services where a marked distinction is constantly kept up
+between officers and soldiers. There is a more gradual transition from
+the highest to the lowest situations of the French army&mdash;a more
+complete amalgamation of the whole mass, than is consistent with the
+views of other governments in the maintenance of their standing armies.</p>
+
+<p>It is true, that a change has taken place in the composition of the
+French army, in this respect, under the imperial government. A number of
+military schools were established and encouraged in different parts of
+the country, and a great number of young men were sent to these by their
+parents, under the understanding, that after being educated in them they
+should become officers at once, without passing through the inferior
+steps, to which they would otherwise have been devoted by the
+conscription. A great number of officers, therefore, have of late years
+been appointed from these schools to the army, who have never served in
+the ranks; but the manners and habits which they acquire at the schools
+are, we should conceive, very little superior to what they might have
+learnt from the private soldiers, who would otherwise have been their
+associates. A comparison of the appearance and manner of the pupils of
+the Ecole Militaire, with those of the young men at the English military
+colleges, would shew, as strongly as any other parallel that could be
+drawn, the difference in respectability and gentlemanlike feeling
+between the English and French officers.</p>
+
+<p>There is so little of uniformity in dress, of regard to external
+appearance, or of shew of subordination, and inferiority to their
+officers, in the French soldiers, that a stranger would be apt to
+consider them as deficient in discipline. The fact is, that they know
+perfectly, from being continually engaged in active service, what are
+the essentials of military discipline, and that they are quite careless
+of all superfluous forms. Whatever regulations are necessary, in any
+particular circumstances, are strictly enforced; and the men submit to
+them, not from any principle of slavish subjection to their officers,
+but rather from deference to their superior intelligence and
+information, and from a regard to the good of the service.</p>
+
+<p>The French army may, in fact, be said to have little of the feelings
+which are truly military. The officers have not the strong feeling of
+humanity, and the high and just sense of honour, not merely as members
+of the army, but as individuals; the soldiers have not the habit of
+implicit obedience and attachment to their peculiar duties; and the
+whole have not the lively sense of responsibility to their country, and
+dependence on their sovereign, which are probably essential to the
+existence of an army which shall not be dangerous, even to the state
+that maintains it. The French army submitted implicitly to Napoleon,
+because he was their general; but we should doubt if they ever
+considered themselves, even under his dominion, as the <i>servants of
+France</i>. They appear, at present, at least, to think themselves an
+independent body, who have a right to act according to their own
+judgment, and are accountable to nobody for their actions. In this idea
+of their own importance they were, of course, encouraged by Napoleon,
+who, on his return from Elba, spoke of the injuries done by the Bourbons
+to the <i>army and people</i>, and assigned the former the most honourable
+place in his Champ de Mai. And it will appear by no means surprising,
+that they should have acquired these sentiments, when we consider the
+importance which has been attached to their exploits by their
+countrymen, the encouragement to which they have been accustomed, the
+preference to all other classes of men which was shewn them by the late
+government, and the nature of the services in which they have been
+engaged, and for which they have been rewarded; circumstances fitted to
+assimilate them, in reality as well as appearance, rather to an immense
+band of freebooters, having no principle but union among themselves,
+and submission to their chiefs, than to an established and responsible
+standing army.</p>
+
+<p>This observation applies to the feelings and principles of the soldiers
+taken as a body, not to their individual habits; for, excepting in the
+case of the detachment of the imperial guard, quartered at Fontainbleau,
+we never understood that the French soldiers in time of peace, at least
+among their own countrymen, were accused of outrage or rapine.</p>
+
+<p>There is considerable variety in the personal appearance of the French
+soldiers. The infantry are generally little men, much inferior to the
+Russians and Prussians in size and weight; but as they are almost all
+young, they appear equally well fitted for bearing fatigues, and they
+have an activity in their gait and demeanour, which accords well with
+their general character. In travelling through the country, we could
+almost always tell a French soldier from one of the allies at a
+distance, by the spring of his step. They have another excellent
+quality, that of being easily fed. Nothing appeared to excite more
+astonishment or indignation in France, than the quantity of food
+consumed by the allied troops. We found at Paris, that the Russian
+convalescents, occupying the hospitals which had formerly been
+appropriated to French troops, actually eat three times the rations
+which the French had been allowed. Frenchmen of the middling and higher
+ranks appear to have generally very keen appetites, and often surprise
+Englishmen by the magnitude and variety of their meals; but the
+peasantry and lower orders are accustomed to much poorer fare than the
+corresponding classes, at least in the southern part of our island, and
+the ordinary diet of the French soldiers is inferior to that of the
+English. In garrison, they are never allowed animal food, at least when
+in their own country; and the better living to which they are accustomed
+in foreign countries, and on active service, is a stronger
+recommendation of war to these volatile and unreflecting spirits, than
+it might at first be thought.</p>
+
+<p>The French cavalry are almost universally fine men, much superior to the
+infantry in appearance. The horses of the <i>chasseurs à cheval</i>, and
+hussars, are small, but active and hardy; and even those of the
+cuirassiers have not the weight or beauty of the English heavy dragoons,
+though we have understood that they bear the fatigues and privations,
+incident to long campaigns, much better.</p>
+
+<p>The imperial guard was composed, like the Russian guard, of picked men,
+who had already served a certain length of time, and the pay being
+higher than of the regiments of the line, and great pains being
+uniformly taken to preserve them as much as possible, from the hardships
+and dangers to which the other troops were exposed, and to reserve them
+for great emergencies, it was at once an honour and a reward to belong
+to them. We saw a review of the elite of the imperial guard on the 8th
+of May 1814, in presence of the King of France; the regiments of
+cavalry, of which a great number passed, were very weak in numbers, but
+the men were uncommonly fine, and the horses strong and active. The
+finest regiment of infantry of the old guard, with some pieces of
+cannon, did not defile before the King, but passed out of the Cour de
+Carousel by a back way, on account, as we understood, of its having
+shewn strong symptoms of disgust on the entrance of the King into Paris.
+That regiment, as well as all the rest of the infantry of the old guard,
+then called the Grenadiers Français, whom we had ever occasion to see,
+was composed of the finest men, not merely in point of strength, but of
+activity and apparent intelligence. The few pieces of artillery of the
+guard that we saw were in very bad condition, and their equipment
+particularly mean; but this branch of the service had not then had time
+to repair the losses it had sustained in the campaign.</p>
+
+<p>The cavalry of the guard appeared to have been the most fashionable
+service under Napoleon. There were cuirassiers, heavy and light
+dragoons, chasseurs, hussars, grenadiers à cheval, and lancers of the
+guard, all of whom had different and splendid uniforms, and presented an
+uncommonly varied and magnificent appearance when reviewed together.
+Their magnificence and variety was evidently intended to gratify the
+taste of the French people for splendid shows, and to attract young men
+of fortune and expensive habits.</p>
+
+<p>The imperial guard had much more of the air and manner, as well as
+dress, of regular soldiers, than any other part of the French army;
+indeed it is impossible to conceive a more martial or imposing figure
+than that of one of the old grenadiers, (commonly called the <i>vieux
+moustaches</i>,) in his striking and appropriate costume, armed with his
+musket and sword, the cross of the legion of honour on his breast, his
+rough and weather-beaten countenance bearing the impression of the sun
+of Italy and the snows of Russia, while his keen and restless eye
+shows, more expressively than words, that he is still "ready, aye
+ready, for the field."</p>
+
+<p>We thought we could discern in the countenances of the troops of
+different nations, whom we saw reviewed about this time, the traces of
+the difference of national character. The general expression of the
+Russians, we thought, was that of stern obstinate determination; of the
+Prussians, warm enthusiastic gallantry; of the French, fierce and
+indignant impetuosity. This may have been fancy, but all who have seen
+the troops of these different nations, will allow a very striking
+difference of expression of countenance, as well as of features.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">No measure was omitted by Napoleon to secure, the services, in the army,
+of all who could be of any use in it. The organization of the garde
+d'honneur was intended to include as large a number as possible of the
+young men, whose circumstances had enabled them to avoid the
+conscription. No act of the Imperial Government seemed to have given
+more general offence in France than the formation of this corps, the
+number of which was stated to have amounted at one time to 10,000. They
+were, in the first instance, invited to volunteer, under the assurance
+that they were to be employed as a guard for Maria Louisa, and under no
+circumstances to be sent across the Rhine. A maximum and minimum number
+were fixed for each <i>arrondissement</i>, some number between which was to
+be made up by voluntary enrolments; but when any deficiency was
+discovered, as for example in Holland, where the young men were very
+little disposed to voluntary service in the French army, a balloting
+immediately took place, and a number greater than the maximum was
+compelled to come forward. Exemption from this service was impossible;
+immense sums were offered and refused. They were all mounted, armed, and
+clothed at their own expense; those who did not chuse to march, were
+sent off under an escort of gens-d'armes; and all were conducted to the
+fortresses on the Rhine, were they were regularly drilled. Some of them
+were induced to volunteer for extended service, by a promise, that after
+serving one campaign, they should be made officers; and in the course of
+the campaign of 1813, <i>all</i> of them were brought up to join the army;
+and these young men, taken only a few weeks before from their families,
+where many of them had been accustomed to every luxury and indulgence,
+were compelled to go through all the duties and fatigues of common
+hussars. Some regiments of them, which were very early brought into
+action, having misconducted themselves, were immediately disbanded;
+their horses, arms, and uniforms, were taken from them for the use of
+the other troops, and they were dismissed, to find the best of their way
+to their homes. Those who remained were distributed among the different
+corps of cavalry, and suffered very severely in the campaign in France.
+We spoke to some of them at Paris, who said they had bivouacked, at one
+period of the campaign, <i>on snow</i>, fourteen nights successively, and
+described to us the action at Rheims, one of the last that was fought,
+where half of their regiment were left on the field. These men
+complained loudly of the treacherous conduct of Napoleon to them and
+their brethren of the same corps; yet they expressed their willingness
+to undergo all their sufferings again, if they could thereby transfer
+the date of the peace to the other side of the Rhine.</p>
+
+<p>The effect of this measure on the middling and higher ranks was not more
+oppressive than that of the conscription on the lower ranks, and even on
+persons in tolerably good circumstances; for we have heard of £.400
+Sterling, being twice paid to rescue an individual, whom a third
+conscription had at length torn from his family. The impression produced
+in France, however, by either of these measures, cannot be judged of
+from a comparison with the feelings so often manifested in this country,
+under circumstances of less aggravated affliction. The same careless,
+unthinking, constitutional cheerfulness, which is so commendable in
+those Frenchmen whose sufferings are all personal, displays itself in a
+darker point of view, when they are called on to sympathise with the
+sufferings of their friends. It is a disposition, allied indeed to
+magnanimity on the one hand, but to selfishness on the other. The
+sufferings of the French on such an occasion as the loss of a near
+relation, may be acute; but they are of very short duration. In Paris,
+mourning is at present hardly ever worn. At the time when we were there,
+although a bloody campaign had only recently been concluded, we did not
+see above five or six persons in mourning, and even these were not
+certainly French. We understood it to be a principle all over France,
+never to wear mourning for a son; but whether this was adopted in
+compliance with the wishes of Napoleon, as was stated by some, or was
+general before his time, as others maintained, we were not sufficiently
+informed.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">It may be a question, whether the real, as well as professed motive of
+the policy of Napoleon, while he directed the affairs of France, was
+some ill-conceived and absurd idea of the superior happiness and
+prosperity which France might enjoy, if placed indisputably at the head
+of the civilized world, and especially if elevated above the rivalship
+of England; but if the good of France was really his end, it is quite
+certain that it engaged very little of his attention, and that he
+occupied himself almost exclusively with regard to the means which he
+held to be necessary to its attainment. The causes of the wars in which
+he engaged were of little importance to him; but the immediate object of
+all of them was the glory and aggrandizement of France; and to this
+object his whole soul was devoted, and all the energies of the state
+were directed.</p>
+
+<p>In a general view, the imperial government may be said to have rested on
+the following foundations.</p>
+
+<p>In the first place, it rested on the principle which was universally
+acted on, of giving active employment, and animating encouragement, to
+all men of talents or enterprise&mdash;to all whose friendship might be
+useful, or whose enmity might be dangerous. The conscription carried off
+the flower of the youthful population; parents were encouraged to send
+their children; if they shewed any superior abilities, to the military
+schools, whence they were rapidly promoted in the army. The formation of
+the garde d'honneur effectually prevented all danger from a numerous
+class of men, whose circumstances might have enabled them to exert
+themselves in opposing public measures. In the civil administration of
+the country, it was the system of Napoleon, from the beginning of his
+career, to give employment to all who might be dangerous, if their
+services were not secured. The prefects of towns and <i>arrondissements</i>,
+were generally men of intelligence and information regarding the
+characters of the inhabitants; and the persons recommended by them to
+the immense number of situations in the police, in the collection of
+taxes, &amp;c. were always men of activity, enterprise, and ability: Birth,
+education, and moral character, were altogether disregarded, and
+religious principle was rather considered a fault than a recommendation.</p>
+
+<p>The consequence was, that the young, the bold, the active, the
+enterprising, the independent, were either attached to the imperial
+government, or at least prevented from exerting themselves in opposition
+to it; while those whom family cares, or laborious occupations, or
+habits of indolence, or want of energy of mind, rendered unfit for
+resistance to any government, were the only people whose interest it
+was to resist that of Napoleon.</p>
+
+<p>In the next place, while much was done by these means to secure the
+support of the most important part of the nation to the imperial
+government, the most effectual precautions were taken to prevent danger
+to it, from those whom either principle might lead, or injuries might
+provoke to disaffection. The police was everywhere so powerful, and the
+system of espionage so universally extended, that it was almost
+impossible for different individuals to combine against the government.
+Without including the hosts of douaniers, who were under the orders of
+the collectors of taxes, the gens d'armerie, who were at the disposal of
+the police, and had no other duties to perform, amounted to above 10,000
+men, cavalry and infantry, all completely armed and equipped. As soon,
+therefore, as any individual excited suspicion, there was no difficulty
+as to his apprehension. The number of police officers was very great,
+and they were all low born, clever, unprincipled men, perfectly fitted
+for their situations. The extent and accuracy of the information
+possessed by them was almost incredible. Indeed, we regard the system of
+espionage, by which this information was procured, as the most complete
+and damning proof of the general selfishness and immorality of the
+French people, of which we have received any account. It was not merely
+that a number of persons were employed by the police as spies; but that
+no man could put any confidence even in his best friends and nearest
+relations. The very essence of the system was the destruction of all
+confidence between man and man; and its success was such, that no man
+could venture to express any sentiments hostile to the government, even
+in the retirement of his own family circle. That sacred sanctuary was
+every where invaded, not by the strong hand of power, but by the secret
+machinations of bribery and intrigue.</p>
+
+<p>We were particularly informed, with respect to the establishment of the
+police in Amsterdam, where the sentiments of the people being known to
+be averse to French dominion, it was of course made stronger than in
+less suspicious parts of the country. Within a week after the annexation
+of Holland to France, the police was in full force, and the spies every
+where in motion. No servant was allowed to engage himself who had not a
+certificate from the police, implying his being a spy on his master. At
+the <i>tables d'hôte</i>, persons were placed to encourage seditious
+conversation, and those who expressed themselves strongly, were soon
+after seized and committed to prison. No person could leave Amsterdam,
+even to go three miles into the country, without a passport from the
+police, which was granted only to whom they pleased. When a party went
+out on such an excursion, they were sure to be met by some of the gens
+d'armerie, who already knew their names and destination, and who fixed
+the time of their return. From the decisions of the police there was no
+appeal; and those who were imprisoned by them, (as so many of the
+inhabitants of Amsterdam were, that it ceased to be any reproach,) had
+no method of bringing on a trial, or even of ascertaining the crimes of
+which they were accused. Frequently individuals were transported from
+one part of the country to another, without any reason being assigned,
+and set down among strangers, to make their bread as they best could,
+under the inspection of the police, who instantly arrested them on their
+attempting to escape. This system was probably more strictly enforced in
+Holland than over the greater part of France, but its most essential
+parts were every where the same, and the information, with respect to
+the private characters and sentiments of individuals, was certainly
+more easily obtained in France than in Holland.</p>
+
+<p>Such, according to the information of the most intelligent and best
+informed persons with whom we had an opportunity of conversing, were the
+principal means by which the power of Napoleon was maintained, and his
+authority enforced. But it must be owned that he did more than
+this,&mdash;that during the greater part of his reign, he not only commanded
+the obedience, but obtained the admiration and esteem of the majority of
+his subjects.</p>
+
+<p>In looking for the causes of this, we shall in vain attempt to discover
+them in real benefits conferred on France by Napoleon. It is true, that
+agriculture made some progress during his reign, but this was decidedly
+owing to the transference of the landed property from nobles and
+churchmen, to persons really interested in the cultivation of the soil,
+which had taken place before his time, and not to the empty and
+ostentatious patronage which he bestowed on it; the best proof of which
+is, that the main improvement that has taken place has not been, as
+already observed, in the principles or practice of agriculture, but in
+the quantity of land under tillage. It is true also, that certain
+manufactures have been encouraged by the exclusion of the English
+goods; but this partial increase of wealth was certainly not worth the
+expense of a year's war, and was heavily counterbalanced by the distress
+occasioned by his tyrannical decrees in the commercial towns of France,
+and of the countries which were subjected to her control.</p>
+
+<p>As a single instance of this distress, we may just notice the situation
+of the city of Amsterdam during the time that Holland was incorporated
+with France. Out of 200,000 inhabitants of that city, more than one
+half, during the whole of that time, were absolutely deprived of the
+means of subsistence, and lived merely on the charity of the remainder,
+who were, for the most part, unable to engage in any profitable
+business, all foreign commerce being at an end, and supported themselves
+therefore on the capital which they had previously acquired; and, lest
+that capital should escape, two-thirds of the national debt of Holland
+were struck off by a single decree of Napoleon. The population of the
+town fell off about 20,000 during the time of its connection with
+France; the taxes, while the two countries were incorporated, were
+enormous; the income-tax, which was independent of the droits reunis, or
+assessed taxes, having been stated to us at one-fifth of every man's
+income. It was during the pressure of these burdens that the tremendous
+system of police which we have described was enforced; and to add to the
+miseries of the unfortunate inhabitants of this and the other commercial
+towns of Holland, they were not allowed to manifest their sufferings.
+Every man who possessed or inhabited a house was compelled to keep it in
+perfect repair; so that even at the time of their liberation, these
+towns bore no external mark of poverty or decay. The consequence of that
+decree, however, had been, that persons possessing houses at first
+lowered their rents, then asked no rents at all; happy to get them off
+their hands, and throw on the tenants the burden of paying taxes for
+them and keeping them in repair; and lastly, in many instances, offered
+sums of money to bribe others to live in their houses, or even accept
+the property of them.</p>
+
+<p>The taxes of France, under Napoleon, it would have been supposed, were
+alone sufficient to exasperate the people against them. They were
+oppressive, not merely from their amount, but especially from the
+arbitrary power which was granted to the prefects of towns and
+<i>arrondissements</i>, and their agents, in collecting them. A certain sum
+was directed to be levied in each district, and the apportioning of this
+burden on the different inhabitants was left almost entirely to the
+discretion of these officers.</p>
+
+<p>It is quite obvious, therefore, as we already hinted; that the
+popularity of Napoleon in France, during at least the greater part of
+his reign; can be traced to no other source than the national vanity of
+the French. As they are more fond of shew than of comfort in private
+life, so their public affections are more easily won by gaudy
+decorations than by substantial benefits. Napoleon gave them enough of
+the former; they had victories abroad and <i>spectacles</i> at home&mdash;their
+capital was embellished&mdash;their country was aggrandised&mdash;their glory was
+exalted; and if he had continued successful, France would still have
+continued to applaud and admire him, while she had sons to swell her
+armies, and daughters to drudge in her fields.</p>
+
+<p>As it was not Napoleon who made the French a military and ambitious
+people, so it is not his fall alone that can secure the world against
+the effects of their military and ambitious spirit. It is not merely the
+removal of him who has so long guided it, but the extinction of the
+spirit itself that is necessary. The effect of the late events on the
+active part of the population of France, cannot be accurately judged of
+in the present moment of irritation and disorder; but whatever
+government that country may ultimately assume, it may surely be hoped
+that their experience of unsuccessful and calamitous war has been
+sufficient to incline them to peace; that they will learn to measure
+their national glory by a better standard than mere victory or noise;
+that they will reflect on the true objects, both of political and
+military institutions, and acknowledge the happiness of the people they
+govern to be the supreme law of kings, and the blessings of the country
+they serve to be the best reward of soldiers.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">JOURNEY TO FLANDERS.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">W</span><span class="smcap">hen</span>
+we left Paris, we took the road to Soissons and Laon, with a view
+to see the seat of war during the previous campaign, and examine the
+interesting country of Flanders. After passing the village of La
+Villette, and the heights of Belleville, the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting, and is distinguished by those features which characterise
+almost all the level agricultural districts of France. The road, which
+is of great breadth, and paved in the centre, runs through a continued
+plain, in which, as far as the eye can reach, nothing is to be discerned
+but a vast expanse of corn fields, varied at intervals by fallows, and
+small tracts of lucerne and sainfoin. No inclosures are to be met with;
+few woods are seen to vary the uniformity of the view; and the level
+surface of the ground is only broken at intervals by the long rows of
+fruit-trees, which intersect the country in different directions, or the
+tall avenues of elms between which the <i>chaussèes</i> are placed.</p>
+
+<p>These elm trees would give a magnificent appearance to the roads, both
+from their age and the immense length during which they fringe its
+sides, were it not that they are uniformly clipt to the very top, for
+firewood, by the peasantry, and that all their natural beauty is in
+consequence destroyed. The elm, indeed, pushes out its shoots to replace
+the branches which have been destroyed, and fringes the lofty stem with
+a cluster of foliage; but as soon as these young branches have become
+large, they too are in their turn sacrificed to the same purpose. When
+seen from a distance, accordingly, these trees resemble tall May-poles
+with tufts at their tops, and are hardly to be distinguished from the
+Lombardy poplars, which, in many parts of the country, line the sides of
+the principal roads.</p>
+
+<p>One most remarkable circumstance in the agricultural districts of
+France, is here to be seen in its full extent. The people do not dwell
+in detached cottages, placed in the centre of their farms or their
+properties, as in all parts of England; they live together in aged
+villages or boroughs, often at the distance of two or three miles from
+the place of their labour, and wholly separated from the farms which
+they are employed in cultivating. It is no uncommon thing accordingly,
+to see a farmer leaving a little town in the morning with his ploughs
+and horses, to go to his piece of ground, which lies many miles from the
+place of his residence.</p>
+
+<p>This circumstance, which exists more or less in every part of France, is
+characteristic of the state in which the people were placed in those
+remote periods, when their habits of life were originally formed. It
+indicates that popular degradation and public insecurity, when the poor
+were compelled to unite themselves in villages or towns for protection
+from the banditti, whom the government was unable to restrain, or from
+the more desolating oppression of feudal power. In every country of
+Europe, in which the feudal tyranny long subsisted; in Spain, in France,
+in Poland, and in Hungary, this custom has prevailed to a certain
+extent, and the remains of it are still to be seen in the remoter parts
+of Scotland. It is in countries alone whose freedom has long subsisted;
+in Switzerland, in Flanders, and in England, that no traces of its
+effects are to be discerned in the manners and the condition of the
+peasantry; that the enjoyment of individual security has enabled the
+poor to spread themselves in fearless confidence over the country; and
+that the traveller, in admiring the union of natural beauty with general
+prosperity, which the appearance of the country exhibits, blesses that
+government, by the influence of whose equal laws that delightful union
+has been effected.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of Paris, and in those situations which are
+favourable for vineyard or garden cultivation, this circumstance gives a
+very singular aspect to the face of the country. As far as the eye can
+reach, the sloping banks, or rising swells, are cultivated with the
+utmost care, and intersected by little paths, which wind through the
+gardens, or among the vineyards, in the most beautiful manner; yet no
+traces of human habitation are to be discerned, by whose labour, or for
+whose use, this admirable cultivation has been conducted. The labourers,
+or proprietors of these gardens, dwell at the distance of miles, in
+antiquated villages, which resemble the old boroughs which are now
+wearing out in the improved parts of Scotland. In the greater part of
+France, the people dwell in this manner, in crowded villages, while the
+open country, every where cultivated, is but seldom inhabited. The
+superiority, accordingly, in the beauty of those districts, where the
+cottages are sprinkled over the country, and surrounded by fruit-trees,
+is greater than can well be imagined: and it is owing to this
+circumstance that Picardy, Artois, and Normandy, exhibit so much more
+pleasing an appearance, than most of the other provinces of France.</p>
+
+<p>In the district between Paris and Soissons, as in almost every other
+part of the country, the land is now in the hands of the peasantry, who
+became proprietors of it during the struggles of the revolution. We had
+every where occasion to observe the extreme industry with which the
+people conduct their cultivation, and perceived numerous instances of
+the truth of Mr Young's observation, "that there is no such instigator
+to severe and incessant labour, as the minute subdivision of landed
+property." But though their industry was uniformly in the highest degree
+laudable, yet we could not help deploring the ignorant and unskilful
+manner in which this industry is directed. The cultivation is still
+carried on after the miserable rotation which so justly excited the
+indignation of Mr Young previous to the commencement of the revolution.
+Wheat, barley or oats, sainfoin, lucerne or clover, and fallow, form
+the universal rotation. The green crops are uniformly cut, and carried
+into the house for the cattle; as there are no inclosures, there is no
+such thing as pasturage in the fields; and, except once on the banks of
+the Oise, we never saw cattle pasturing in those parts of France. The
+small quantity of lucerne and sainfoin, moreover, shews that there are
+but few herds in this part of France, and that meat, butter, or cheese,
+form but a small part of the food of the peasantry. Normandy, in fact,
+is the only pasture district of France, and the produce of the dairy
+there is principally intended for the markets of Paris.</p>
+
+<p>The soil is apparently excellent the whole way, composed of a loam in
+some places, mixed with clay and sand, and extremely easily worked.
+Miserable fallows are often seen, on which the sheep pick up a wretched
+subsistence&mdash;their lean sides and meagre limbs exhibit the effects of
+the scanty food which they are able to obtain. The ploughing to us
+appeared excellent; but we were unable to determine whether this was to
+be imputed to the skilfulness of the labourer, or the light friable
+nature of the soil.</p>
+
+<p>The property of the peasantry is not surrounded by any enclosures, nor
+are there any visible marks whereby their separate boundaries could be
+determined by the eye of a stranger. The plain exhibits one unbroken
+surface of corn or vineyards, and appears as if it all formed a part of
+one boundless property. The vast expanse, however, is in fact subdivided
+into an infinite number of small estates, the proprietors of which dwell
+in the aged boroughs through which the road occasionally passes, and the
+extremities of which are marked by great stones fixed on their ends,
+which are concealed from a passenger by the luxuriant corn in which they
+are enveloped. This description applies to the grain districts in almost
+every part of France.</p>
+
+<p>Although the condition of the peasantry has been greatly ameliorated, in
+consequence of the division of landed property since the revolution, yet
+their increased wealth has not yet had any influence on the state of
+their habitations, or the general comfort of their dwellings. This rises
+from the nature of the contributions to which they were subjected during
+the despotic governments which succeeded the first years of the
+revolution. These contributions were levied by the governors of
+districts in the most arbitrary manner. The arrondissement was assessed
+at a certain sum by the government, or a certain contribution for the
+support of the war was imposed; and the sum was proportioned out among
+the different inhabitants, according to the discretion of the collector.
+Any appearance of comfort, accordingly, among the peasantry, was
+immediately followed by an increased contribution, and heavier taxes;
+and hence the people never ventured to make any display of their
+increased wealth in their dwellings, or in any article of their
+expenditure, which might attract, the notice of the collectors of the
+imperial revenue. The burdens to which they were subjected, moreover,
+especially during the last years of the war, were extremely severe,
+arising both from the enormous sums requisite to save their sons from
+the conscription, and the heavy unequal contributions to which they were
+subjected.</p>
+
+<p>From these causes, the division of landed property has not yet produced
+that striking amelioration in the habits and present comfort of the
+peasantry, which generally attend this important measure; and their
+wealth is rather hoarded up, after the eastern custom, for future,
+emergencies or spent in the support of an early marriage; and never
+lavished in the fearless enjoyment of present opulence.</p>
+
+<p>In some respects, however, their appearance evidently bears the mark of
+the improvement in their situation. Their dress is upon the whole neat
+and comfortable, covered in general by a species of smock frock of a
+light blue colour, and exhibiting none of that miserable appearance
+which Mr Young described as characterising the labouring classes during
+his time. They evidently had the aspect of being well fed, and both in
+their figures and dress, afforded a striking contrast to the wretched
+and decrepid inhabitants of the towns, in whom the real poverty of the
+people, under the old regime, was still perceptible. In some of these
+towns, the appearance of the beggars, their extraordinary figures, and
+tattered dress, exhibited a spectacle which would have been
+inconceivably ludicrous, were it not for the melancholy ideas of abject
+poverty which it necessarily conveyed.</p>
+
+<p>About twenty miles from Soissons, the road passes through the
+magnificent forest of Villars Coterets, which, in the luxuriance and
+extent of its woods, rivals the forest of Fontainbleau. The place on
+which it stands is varied by rising grounds, and the distance exhibits
+beautiful vistas of forest scenery and gentle swells, adorned by rich
+and varied foliage. It wants, however, those grand and striking
+features, that mixture of rock and wood, of forest gloom and savage
+scenery, which give so unrivalled a charm to the forest of
+Fontainbleau.</p>
+
+<p>From Villars Coterets, the road lies over a high plateau, covered with
+grain, and exhibiting more than ordinary barrenness and desolation.
+After passing over this dreary track, you arrive at the edge of a steep
+declivity, which shelves down to the valley in which the Aisne wanders.
+The appearance of this valley is extremely beautiful. It is sheltered by
+high ridges, or sloping hills, covered with vineyards, orchards, and
+luxuriant woods: the little plain is studded with villas and neat
+cottages, embosomed in trees, or surrounded by green meadows, in which
+the winding course of the Aisne can at intervals be discerned. When we
+reached this spot, the sun had newly risen; his level rays illuminated
+the white cottages with which the valley is sprinkled, or glittered on
+the stream which winded through its plain; while the Gothic towers of
+Soissons threw a long shadow over the green fields which surrounded its
+walls. It reminded us of those lines in Thomson, in which the effect of
+the morning light is so beautifully described:</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 10em;">"Lo, now apparent all,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Aslant the dew-bright earth and coloured air,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">He looks in boundless majesty abroad,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And sheds the shining day, that burnished plays</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">On rocks, and hills, and towers, and wandering streams,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">High gleaming from afar."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The descent to Soissons is through a declivity adorned by thriving
+gardens and neat cottages, detached from each other, which afforded a
+pleasing contrast to the solitary, uninhabited, though cultivated plains
+through which our route had previously lain. The Fauxbourgs of the town
+were wholly in ruins, having been totally destroyed in the three
+assaults which they had sustained during the previous campaign. The town
+itself is small, surrounded by decayed fortifications, and containing
+nothing of note, except the Gothic spires, which bear testimony to its
+antiquity.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Soissons on the road to Laon, you go for two miles through
+the level plain in which the town is situated; after which you begin to
+ascend the steep ridge by which its eastern boundary is formed. It was
+on the summit of this ridge that Marshal Blucher's army was drawn up,
+80,000 strong, at the time when a detachment of his troops, under Count
+Langeron, was defending Soissons against the French army. Immediately
+below this position, there is placed a small village, which bore the
+marks of desperate fighting; all the houses were unroofed or shattered
+in every part by musket balls; and many seemed to have been burnt during
+the struggles of which it was formerly the theatre. There is an old
+castle a little higher up the ascent, which was garrisoned by the allied
+troops; in the neighbourhood of which, we perceived numerous traces of
+the immense bivouacs which had been made round its walls; particularly
+the bodies of horses and oxen, which the Russians had left on the
+ground, and which the peasants had taken no pains to remove.</p>
+
+<p>From thence the road runs over a high level plateau, covered with
+miserable corn, or worse fallows, and having an aspect of sterility very
+different from what we were accustomed to in the rich provinces of
+France. In the midst of this dreary country, we beheld with delight
+several deep ravines, formed by streams which fall into the Aisne,
+sheltered from the chilling blasts that sweep along the high plains by
+which they are surrounded, the steep sides of which were clothed with
+luxuriant woods, and in the bottom of which are placed many little farms
+and cottages, which exhibited a perfect picture of rural beauty. Even
+here, however, the terrible effects of war were clearly visible; these
+sequestered spots had been ravaged by the hostile armies; and the ruined
+walls of the peasants dwellings presented a melancholy spectacle in the
+midst of the profusion of beauty with which they were surrounded.</p>
+
+<p>Half way between Soissons and Laon, is placed a solitary inn, at which
+Bonaparte stopt six hours, after the disastrous termination of the
+battle of Laon. The people informed us, that during this time, he was in
+a state of great agitation, wrote many different orders, which he
+destroyed as fast as they were done, and covered the floor with the
+fragments of his writing. Many Cossacks and Bashkirs had been quartered
+in this inn; the people, as usual, would not allow them any good
+qualities, but often repeated, with evident chagrin&mdash;"Ils mangent comme
+des diables; ils ont mangé tous les poulets."</p>
+
+<p>The features of the country continue with little variety, till you begin
+to descend from the high plateau, over which the road has passed into
+the wooded valley, in the centre of which the hill and town of Laon are
+placed. The dreary aspect of this plateau, which, though cultivated in
+every part, exhibited few traces of human habitation, was enlivened
+occasionally by herds of pigs, of a lean and meagre breed, (followed by
+shepherds of the most grotesque appearance,) wandering over the bare
+fallows, and seemingly reduced to the necessity of feeding on their
+mother earth.</p>
+
+<p>At the distance of six miles from Laon, the descent begins to the plain
+below, down the side of a deep ravine, beautifully clothed with woods
+and vineyards. On the other side of this ravine lies the plateau on
+which the battle of Craon was fought, whose level desolate surface
+seemed a fit theatre for the struggle that was there maintained. At the
+bottom of the ravine the road passes a long line of villages, surrounded
+with wood and gardens, which had been wholly ruined by the operations of
+the armies; and among the neighbouring woods we were shewn numerous
+graves both of French and Russian soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to Laon lies through a great morass, covered in different
+places with low brushwood, and intersected only by the narrow chaussèe
+on which the road is laid. The appearance of the town is very striking;
+standing on a hill in the centre of a plain of 10 or 12 miles in
+diameter, bounded on all sides by steep and wooded ridges. It is
+surrounded by an old wall, and some decayed towers, and is adorned by
+some fine Gothic spires, whose apparent magnitude is much increased by
+the elevated station on which they are placed.</p>
+
+<p>In crossing this chaussèe, we were immediately struck with the
+extraordinary policy of Bonaparte, in attacking the Russian army posted
+on the heights of Laon, where his only retreat was by the narrow road
+we were traversing, which for several miles, ran through a morass,
+impassible for carriages or artillery. This appeared the more wonderful,
+as the army he was attacking was more numerous than his own, composed of
+admirable troops, and posted in a position where little hopes of success
+could be entertained. It was an error of the same kind as he committed
+at Leipsic, when he gave battle to the allied armies with a single
+bridge and a long defile in his rear. It is laid down as one of the
+first maxims of war, by Frederic the Great, "never to fight an enemy
+with a bridge or defile in your rear: as if you are defeated, the ruin
+of the army must ensue in the confusion which the narrowness of the
+retreat creates." We cannot suppose so great a general as Bonaparte to
+have been ignorant of so established a principle, or a rule which common
+sense appears so obviously to dictate; it is more probable, that in the
+confidence which the long habit of success had occasioned, he never
+contemplated the possibility of a defeat, nor took any measures whatever
+for ensuring the safety of his army in the event of a retreat. Be this
+as it may, it is certain that he fought at Laon with a morass, crossed
+by a single chaussèe, in his rear, and that if he had been totally
+defeated, instead of being repulsed in the action which then took
+place, his army must have been irretrievably ruined, in the narrow line
+over which their retreat was of necessity conducted.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the hill of Laon is placed a small village named Semilly,
+in which a desperate conflict had evidently been maintained. The trees
+were riddled with the cannon-shot; the walls were pierced for the fire
+of infantry, and the houses all in ruins, from the showers of balls to
+which they had been exposed. The steep declivity of the hill itself was
+covered with gardens and vineyards, in which the allied army had been
+posted during the continuance of the conflict; but though three months
+had not elapsed since the period when they were filled with hostile
+troops, no traces of desolation were to be seen, nor any thing which
+could indicate the occurrence of any extraordinary events. The vines
+grew in the utmost luxuriance on the spot where columns of infantry had
+so recently stood, and the garden cultivation appeared in all its
+neatness, on the very ground which had been lately traversed by all the
+apparatus of modern warfare. It would have been impossible for any one
+to have conceived, that the destruction they occasioned could so soon
+have been repaired; or that the powers of Nature, in that genial
+climate, could so rapidly have effaced all traces of the desolation
+which marked the track of human ambition.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Laon itself contains little worthy of note; but the view
+from its ramparts, though not extensive, was one of the most pleasing
+which we had seen in France. The little plain with which the town is
+surrounded, is varied with woods, corn fields, and vineyards; the view
+is closed on every side by a ridge of hills, which form a circular
+boundary round its farthest extremity, while the foreground is finely
+marked by the decaying towers of the fortress, or the dark foliage which
+shades its ramparts.</p>
+
+<p>We walked over the field of battle with a degree of interest, which
+nothing but the memorable operations of which it had formerly been the
+theatre, could possibly have excited. The accounts of the action, which
+we received from the inhabitants of the town, and peasantry in its
+vicinity, agreed perfectly with the official details which we had
+previously read; and although we could not give an opinion with
+confidence on a military question, it certainly appeared to us, that the
+operations of the French army had been ill combined. Indeed, some
+French officers with whom we conversed on the next day, allowed that the
+battle had been ill fought, but, as usual, laid all the blame upon
+Marmont. The main body of the French army, advancing by the road from
+Soissons, attacked the villages of Ardon and Semilly in front of the
+town, on the centre of Marshal Blucher's position, and his right wing,
+which was posted in the intersected ground to the west of the town, on
+the morning of the 9th of March. These parts of the position were
+occupied chiefly by the corps of Woronzoff and Buloff, and as they were
+very strong, no impression was made on them, and the troops who defended
+them maintained themselves, without support from the reserves, during
+the whole day. Late in the evening, the corps of Marmont, with a body of
+cavalry under Arrighi, appeared on the road from Rheims, advancing
+apparently without any communication or concert with the troops under
+Napoleon in person, (who were drawn up, for the most part, in heavy
+columns, in the immediate vicinity of the Soissons road), and made a
+furious attack on the extreme left of Marshal Blucher's position. The
+Marshal being satisfied by this time, that the troops in position about
+the town were adequate to the defence of it against Napoleon's force,
+was enabled to detach the whole corps of York, Kleist, and Sacken, with
+the greater part of his cavalry, to oppose Marmont, who was instantly
+overthrown, cut off from all communication with Napoleon, and driven
+across the Aisne, with the loss of four or five thousand prisoners, and
+forty pieces of cannon. The only assistance which Napoleon could give
+him in his retreat, was by renewing the attack on Ardon and Semilly,
+which he did next morning, and maintained the action during the whole of
+the 10th, with no other effect, than preventing the pursuit of Marmont
+from being followed up by the vigour which might otherwise have been
+displayed by the Silesian army, notwithstanding the fatigues which they
+had undergone at that time, during six weeks of continued marching and
+fighting.</p>
+
+<p>The village of Athies, where the contest with Marmont's corps was
+decided, containing about 200 houses, had been completely burnt in the
+time of the action; and, when we were there, little progress had been
+made in rebuilding it, but the inhabitants, then living in temporary
+sheds, displayed their usual cheerfulness and equanimity; they were very
+loud in reprobation of the military conduct of Marmont, and very anxious
+to convince us, that the French had been overwhelmed only by great
+superiority of numbers, and that the allies might have completely cut
+off the retreat of Marmont towards Rheims, if they had known how to
+profit by their success.</p>
+
+<p>June 8th, we left Laon at sunrise, and took the road to St Quentin. For
+a few miles the road passes through the plain in which the town is
+placed, after which it enters a pass, formed between the sloping hills,
+by which its boundary is marked. These hills are, for the most part,
+soft and green, like those on the banks of the Yarrow in Scotland, but
+varied, in some places, by woods and orchards; and their lower
+declivities are every where covered by vineyards and garden cultivation.
+Near their foot is placed the village of Cressy, which struck us as the
+most comfortable we had seen in France. The houses are all neat and
+substantial, covered with excellent slated roofs, and lighted by large
+windows, each surrounded by a little garden, and exhibiting a degree of
+comfort rarely to be met with among the dwellings of the French
+peasantry. On inquiry, we found that these peasants had long been
+proprietors of their houses, with the gardens attached, and had each a
+vineyard on the adjoining heights. The effects of long established
+property were here very apparent in the habits of comfort and industry,
+which, in process of time, it had ingrafted upon the dispositions and
+wishes of the people.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the ridge of little hills, through banks clothed with
+hanging woods, the road descends into a little circular valley,
+surrounded on all sides by rising grounds, which presented a scene of
+the most perfect rural beauty. The upper part of the hills were covered
+with luxuriant woods, whose flowing outline suited the expression of
+softness and repose by which the scene was distinguished; on the
+declivities below the wood, the vineyards, gardens, and fruit-trees,
+covered the sunny banks which descended into the plain, while the lower
+part of the valley was filled with a village, embosomed in fruit-trees,
+ornamented only by a simple spire. It is impossible for language to
+convey an adequate idea of the beauty of this exquisite scene; it united
+the interest of romantic scenery with the charm of cultivated nature,
+and seemed placed in this sequestered valley, to combine all that was
+delightful in rural life. When we first beheld it, the sun was newly
+risen; his increasing rays threw a soft light over the wooded hills, and
+illuminated the summit of the village spire; the grass and the vines
+were still glittering in the morning dew, and the songs of the peasants
+were heard on all sides, cheering the beginning of their early labour.
+The marks of cultivation harmonized with the expression by which the
+scene was characterised; they were emblematic only of human happiness,
+and had a tendency to induce the momentary belief, that in this
+sequestered spot the human species shared in the fulness of universal
+joy.</p>
+
+<p>As we descended into the valley, we perceived a great chateau near the
+western extremity of the village of Foudrain, which appeared still to be
+inhabited, and had none of the appearance of decay by which all that we
+had hitherto seen were distinguished. It belongs to the Chevalier
+Brancas, who is proprietor of this and seven or eight of the adjoining
+villages, and whose estates extend over a great part of the surrounding
+country. On enquiry, we found that this great proprietor had, long
+before the revolution, pursued a most enlightened and indulgent conduct
+towards his peasantry, giving them leases of their houses and gardens of
+20 or 30 years, and never removing any even at the expiration of that
+period, if their conduct had been industrious during its continuance.
+The good effects of this liberal policy have appeared in the most
+striking manner, not only in the increased industry and enlarged wealth
+of the tenants; but in the moderate, loyal conduct which they pursued,
+during the eventful period of the revolution. The farmers on this estate
+are some of the richest in France; many being possessed of a capital of
+15,000 or 16,000 francs, (from £. 750 to £. 800 Sterling,) a very large
+sum in that country, and amply sufficient for the management of the
+farms which they possessed. Their houses are neat and comfortable in the
+most remarkable degree, and the farm-steadings as extensive and
+substantial as in the most improved districts of England. The ground is
+cultivated with the utmost care, and the industry of the peasants is
+conspicuous in every part of agricultural management. It was impossible,
+in comparing these prosperous dwellings with the decayed villages in
+most other parts of the country, not to discern, in the clearest manner,
+the salutary influence of individual security upon the labouring
+classes; and the tendency which the certainty of enjoying the fruits of
+their labour has, not merely in increasing their present industry, but
+awakening those wishes of improvement, and engendering those habits of
+comfort; which are the only true foundation of public happiness.</p>
+
+<p>During the revolution, when the peasants of all the adjoining estates
+violently dispossessed their landlords of their property; when every
+adjoining chateau exhibited a scene of desolation and ruin; the peasants
+of this estate were remarkable for their moderate and steady conduct; so
+far from themselves pillaging their seigneur, they formed a league for
+his defence "&mdash;Ils l'ont soutenùs," as they themselves expressed
+it&mdash;<i>and he continued throughout, and is now in the quiet possession of
+his great estate</i>. It is not perhaps going too far to say, that had the
+peasants throughout the country been treated with the same indulgence,
+and suffered to enjoy the same property, as in this delightful district,
+France would have been spared from all the horrors and all the
+sufferings of her revolution.</p>
+
+<p>From Foudrain to La Fere, the country is, for the most part, flat; and
+the road, which is shaded by lofty trees, skirts the edge of a great
+forest, which stretches as far as the eye can reach to the left; and
+joins with the forest of Villars Coterets. For many miles the road is
+bordered by fruit-trees, and the cottages have a most comfortable
+thriving appearance. To St Quentin the face of the country is flat,
+though the ridge over which you pass is high; the villages have an
+appearance of progress and opulence about them, which is rarely to be
+met with in other parts of France. All the peasantry carry on
+manufactures in their own houses; and probably their gains are very
+considerable, as their houses are much more neat and comfortable than in
+districts which are solely agricultural, and their dress bears the
+appearance of considerable wealth. The cultivation in the open country
+still continues, in general, to be wheat, barley, clover, and fallow;
+but the approach to French Flanders is very obvious, both from the
+increased quantity of rye under cultivation, from the occasional fields
+of beans which are to be met with, and from the numbers of potatoes and
+other vegetables which are to be discerned round the immediate vicinity
+of the villages. In these villages the houses are white-washed,
+surrounded by gardens, and have a smiling aspect.</p>
+
+<p>La Fere is a small town, surrounded with trifling fortifications,
+containing a considerable arsenal of artillery. We were much amused,
+while there, with the spectacle which the market exhibited. A great
+concourse of people had been collected from all quarters, to purchase a
+number of artillery horses which the government had exposed at a low
+price, to indemnify the people for the losses they had sustained during
+the continuance of the war. The crowds of grotesque figures which
+thronged the streets, the picturesque appearance of the horses that were
+exposed to sale, and the fierce martial aspect of the grenadiers of the
+old guard, a detachment of whom were quartered in the town, rendered
+this scene truly characteristic of the French people.</p>
+
+<p>St Quentin is a neat, clean, and thriving town, resembling, both in the
+forms of the houses, and the opulence of the middling classes, the
+better sort of the country towns in England. It is the seat of
+considerable manufactures, which throve amazingly under the imperial
+government, in consequence of the exclusion of the English commodities
+during the revolutionary wars. The linen manufacture is the staple
+branch of industry, and affords employment to the peasantry in their own
+houses, in every direction in the surrounding country, which is probably
+the cause of the thriving prosperous appearance by which they are
+distinguished. The great church of St Quentin, though not built in fine
+proportions, is striking, from the coloured glass of its windows, and
+its great dimensions.</p>
+
+<p>The French cultivation continues without any other change than the
+increased quantity of rye in the fields, and vegetables round the
+cottages, to the frontier of French Flanders. Still the country exhibits
+one unbroken sheet of corn and fallow; no inclosures are to be seen, and
+little wood varies the uniformity of the prospect. In crossing a high
+ridge which separates St Quentin from Cambray, the road passes over the
+great canal from Antwerp to Paris, which is here carried for many miles
+through a tunnel under ground. This great work was commenced under the
+administration of M. Turgot, but it was not completed till the time of
+Bonaparte, who employed in it great numbers of the prisoners whom he had
+taken in Spain. The magnitude of the undertaking may be judged of from
+the immense depth of the hollow which was cut for it, previous to the
+commencement of the tunnel, which is so great, that the canal, when seen
+from the top, has the appearance of a little stream. The course of the
+tunnel is marked on the surface of the ground by a line of chalky soil,
+which is spread above its centre, and which can be seen as far as the
+eye can reach, stretching over the vast ridge by which the country is
+traversed.</p>
+
+<p>At the distance of three miles from the town of Cambray, the road
+crosses the ancient frontiers of French Flanders. We had long been
+looking for this transition, to discover if it still exhibited the
+striking change described by Arthur Young, "between the effects of the
+despotism of old France, which depressed agriculture, and the free
+spirit of the Burgundian provinces, which cherished and protected it."
+No sooner had we crossed the old line of demarcation between the French
+and Flemish provinces, than we were immediately struck with the
+difference, both in the aspect of the country, the mode of cultivation,
+and the condition of the people. The features of the landscape assume a
+totally different aspect; the straight roads, the clipt elms, the
+boundless plains of France are no longer to be seen; and in their place
+succeeds a thickly wooded soil and cultivated country. The number of
+villages is infinitely increased; the village spires rise above the
+woods in every direction, to mark the antiquity and the extent of the
+population: the houses of the peasants are detached from each other, and
+surrounded with fruit trees, or gardens kept in the neatest order, and
+all the features of the landscape indicate the long established
+prosperity by which the country has been distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>Nor is the difference less striking in the mode of cultivation which is
+purified. Fallows, so common in France, almost universally disappear;
+and in their place, numerous crops of beans, pease, potatoes, carrots
+and endive, are to be met with. In the cultivation of these crops manual
+labour is universally employed; and the mode of cultivation is precisely
+that which is carried on in garden husbandry. The crops are uniformly
+laid out in small patches of an acre or thereby to each species of
+vegetable; which, combined with the extreme minuteness of the
+cultivation, gives the country under tillage the appearance of a great
+kitchen garden. This singular practice, which is universal in Flanders,
+is probably owing to the great use of the manual labour in the
+operations of agriculture. Rye is very much cultivated, and forms the
+staple food of the peasantry. The crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, and
+clover, struck us as exceedingly heavy, but not nearly so clean as those
+of a similar description in the best agricultural districts of our own
+country.</p>
+
+<p>But it is principally in the condition, manners, and comfort of the
+people, that the difference between the French and Flemish provinces
+consists. Every thing connected with the lower orders, indicates the
+influence of long-established prosperity, and the prevalence of habits
+produced by the uninterrupted enjoyment of individual opulence. The
+population of Flanders, both French and Austrian, is perfectly
+astonishing; the villages form an almost uninterrupted line through the
+country; the small towns are as numerous as villages in other parts of
+the world, and seem to contain an extensive and comfortable population.
+These small towns are particularly remarkable for the number and
+opulence of the middling classes, resembling in this, as well as other
+respects, the flourishing boroughs of Yorkshire and Kent, and affording
+a most striking contrast to those of a very opposite description, which
+we had recently passed through in France.</p>
+
+<p>The cottages of the peasantry, both in the villages and the open
+country, are in the highest degree, neat, clean, and comfortable; built
+for the most part of brick, and slated in the roof; nowhere exhibiting
+the slightest symptoms of dilapidation. These houses have almost all a
+garden attached to them, in the cultivation of which, the poor people
+display, not only extreme industry, but a degree of taste superior to
+what might be expected from their condition in life: The inside bore the
+marks of great comfort, both from the cleanness which every where
+prevailed, and the costly nature of the furniture with which they were
+filled. Nothing could be more pleasing than the appearance of the
+windows, every where in the best repair, large and capacious, and
+furnished with shutters on the outside, painted green, which, together
+with the bright whiteness of the walls, gave the whole the appearance of
+buildings destined for ornamental purposes, rather than the abode of the
+lower orders of the people.</p>
+
+<p>Cambray is a neat comfortable town, containing 15,000 inhabitants, and
+surrounded by fortifications in tolerable repair, but which, when we
+passed them, were not armed. It was once celebrated for its magnificent
+cathedral, reckoned the finest in France; but a few ruins of this great
+building alone have escaped the fury of the people, during the
+commencement of the revolution. These trifling remains, however, were
+sufficient to convey some idea of the beautiful proportions in which the
+whole had been constructed; they resembled much the finest part of
+Dryburgh Abbey, in Scotland. The modern cathedral, built near the site
+of the old one, has a mean exterior, but possesses considerable
+splendour in the inside.</p>
+
+<p>From Cambray to Valenciennes, the features of the country continue the
+same as those we have just described. The surface of the ground is still
+flat, and cultivated in every part with the utmost care, in the garden
+style of husbandry. We were particularly struck, in this district, by
+the quantity of drilled crops, the admirable order in which they are
+kept, and the vast numbers of people, both men, women, and children, who
+appeared engaged in their cultivation. Nothing, indeed, but the great
+demand for labour, occasioned by the use of manual labour in husbandry,
+could have produced, or could support, the great population by which
+Flanders has always been distinguished.</p>
+
+<p>Valenciennes, situated in one of the finest districts of Flanders, is
+likewise a well built, comfortable town, built entirely of brick, and
+surrounded by magnificent fortifications, in admirable repair. As this
+was the first well fortified town which we had seen, it was to us a
+matter of no ordinary interest, which was encreased by the remembrance
+of the celebrated siege which it had undergone from the English army at
+the commencement of the revolutionary war. We were shewn the point at
+which the English forced their entrance; and the numberless marks of
+cannon-balls which their artillery had occasioned during the siege were
+still uneffaced. Though the modern fortifications, built after the model
+of Vauban, have not the romantic or picturesque aspect which belongs to
+the aged towers of Montreuil, Abbeville, or Laon, or the more ruinous
+walls of the town of Conway in Wales, yet they present a pleasing
+spectacle, arising partly from the regularity of the forms themselves,
+and partly from the association with which they are connected.</p>
+
+<p>From Valenciennes to Mons, the country is still flat, though the
+cultivation and the aspect of the scene is somewhat varied from what had
+been exhibited by the districts of French Flanders, through which we had
+previously passed. It lies lower, and appears more subject to
+inundation: Ditches appear at intervals, filled with water, and
+extensive meadows are to be seen, covered with rank and luxuriant grass.
+The cultivation of grain and green crops is less frequent, and in their
+stead, vast tracks of rich pasture cover the face of the country. Much
+wood is to be seen on all sides, often of great dimensions; and the
+population appears still as great as before. The villages succeed one
+another so fast, as almost to form a continued street; and the
+numberless spires which rise over the woods in every direction, prove
+that this number of inhabitants extends over the whole country. The
+cottages still continue neat and comfortable; not picturesque to a
+painter's eye, but exhibiting the more delightful appearance of
+individual prosperity. Their beauty is much increased by the quantity
+of wood, or the variety of fruit-trees, with which the villages are
+interspersed. There are many coal-pits in this country, and a great deal
+of carriage of this valuable mineral on the principal roads. They
+present a scene of infinitely more bustle and activity than the richest
+parts of France. We met a great number of waggons, harnessed and
+equipped like those in England; and the numbers of carriages reminded
+us, in some degree, of the extraordinary appearance, in this respect,
+which the approach to our own capital presents; a state of things widely
+different from the desolate <i>chaussèes</i> which the interior of France
+exhibits. Every thing in the small towns and villages bore the marks of
+activity, industry, and increasing prosperity. We passed with much
+interest over the celebrated field of battle of Jemappe, where the
+remains of Austrian redoubts are still visible.</p>
+
+<p>Mons, the frontier town of Austrian Flanders, was once a place of great
+strength, and underwent a dreadful siege during the wars of the Duke of
+Marlborough; but its ramparts are now dismantled, according to the
+ruinous policy of Joseph II. The square in the town is large, and has a
+striking appearance, owing to the picturesque and varied forms of the
+houses and public buildings of which it is formed. From the summit of
+the great steeple, to which you are conducted by a stair of 353 steps,
+there is a magnificent view over the adjacent country to a great
+distance. It is for the most part green, owing to the immense quantity
+of land under pasturage, and clothed in every direction with extensive
+woods. At a considerable distance we were shewn the woods and heights of
+<i>Malplaquet</i>, the scene of one of the Duke of Marlborough's great
+victories, of which the people still spoke, as if it had been one of the
+recent occurrences of the war. This town, when we visited it, was
+completely filled with Prussian and Saxon troops, whose intrepid martial
+appearance bespoke that undaunted character by which they have been
+distinguished in the memorable actions of which this country has since
+been the theatre.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Mons, on the road to Brussels, you quit the low swampy plain
+in which the town is situated, and ascend a gentle hill, clothed with
+wood, in the openings of which many beautiful views of the spires of the
+city are to be seen. The hill itself is composed entirely of sand, and
+would be reckoned a rising ground in most other countries, but it forms
+a pleasing variety to the level plains of Flanders. From thence to
+Brussels, a distance of 35 miles, the scenery is beautiful in the
+greatest degree. Unlike the flat surface which prevails over most parts
+of this country, it is charmingly varied by hills and vallies, adorned
+by beautiful woods, whose disposition resembles rather that of trees in
+a gentleman's park, than what usually occurs in an agricultural country.
+The cottages, over the whole of this district, are particularly
+pleasing; every where white-washed, clean and comfortable; half hid by a
+profusion of fruit-trees, or the aged stems of elm and ash.</p>
+
+<p>Brain-le-Compte, Halle, and a number of smaller towns through which the
+road passes, are distinguished by the neatness of the houses, and the
+number and opulence of the middling classes of society. The vallies are
+admirably cultivated in agricultural or garden husbandry, and
+interspersed with numerous cottages; the gentle slopes are laid out in
+grass or pasture, and the uplands clothed with luxuriant woods. Upon the
+whole, the scenery between Mons and Brussels was the most delightful we
+had ever seen of a similar description, both from the richness and
+extent of the cultivation; the appearance of public and private
+property, which was unceasingly exhibited; the beautiful variety of the
+ground, and the charming disposition of the woods which terminate the
+view. The village spires, whose summits rise above the distant woods in
+every direction, increased the effect which the objects of nature were
+fitted to produce, both from the beauty of their forms themselves, and
+the pleasing reflections which they awaken in the mind.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through this beautiful country in a fine summer evening in the
+middle of June. The heat of the day had passed: The shades of evening
+were beginning to spread over the lowland country; the forest of
+Soignies was still illuminated by the glow of the setting sun, while his
+level rays shed a peaceful light over the woods which skirt the field of
+<span class="smcap">Waterloo</span>. We little thought that the scene, which was now expressive
+only of rest and happiness, should hereafter be the theatre of mortal
+combat: that the same sun which seemed now to set amid the blessings of
+a grateful world, should so soon illuminate a field of agony and death;
+and that the ground which we now trod with no other feelings than
+admiration for the beauty of nature, was destined to become the field of
+deathless glory to the British name.</p>
+
+<p>The state of agriculture from Cambray to Brussels, both in French and
+Austrian Flanders, is admirable. No fallows are any where to be seen,
+and in their place, green crops, of which beans, peas, carrots, &amp;c. form
+the principal part. These green crops are kept very clean, and all
+worked by the spade or hoe, which furnishes employment to the immense
+population which is diffused over the country. Crops of rye, which, when
+we passed them in the middle of June, were in full ear, are every where
+very common; indeed, rye bread seems to be the staple food of the
+peasantry. Much wheat, barley, and oats, are also cultivated, with a
+great deal of sainfoin and clover, which is never pastured, but cut, and
+carried green into the stalls of the cattle. No inclosures are to be
+seen, except round the orchards and gardens which surround the villages;
+and, indeed, fences would be a useless waste of ground in a country
+where every corner is valuable, and no cattle are ever to be seen in the
+open fields. The soil seemed to be excellent throughout the whole
+country; sometimes sandy, and sometimes, a rich loam; and the crop, both
+of corn, beans, and grass, heavy and luxuriant. With the exception,
+however, of the grain crops, which are generally drilled, the fields are
+not nearly so clean as in the best parts of England.</p>
+
+<p>The farm steadings and implements of husbandry in all parts of Flanders,
+are greatly superior to those in France. The waggons are not only more
+numerous on the roads, but greatly neater in their construction than in
+France; the ploughs are of a better construction, and the farm offices
+both more extensive, and in better repair. Every thing, in short,
+indicated a much more improved and opulent class of agriculturists, and
+a country in which the fundamental expenses of cultivation had long been
+incurred.</p>
+
+<p>Near Cambray, the wages of labour are one franc a-day. Near
+Valenciennes, and from that to Mons, they are from 1 franc to 25 sous,
+that is, from 10d. to 12-1/2d. From Mons to Brussels, and round that
+town, from 1 franc to 30 sous, that is, from 10d. to 15d. The rent of
+land was stated in French Flanders at 20 francs, and the price 1000
+francs <i>per marcoti</i>; and from Valenciennes to Mons, from 35 to 50
+francs; but we could never accurately ascertain what proportion a
+marcoti bore to the English acre.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the farms is exceedingly various in the districts of
+Flanders which we have visited. From Cambray to Valenciennes, they were
+called from 200 to 300 <i>marcotis</i>; but from Mons to Brussels, an
+exceedingly well-cultivated district, they seldom exceed from 50 to 100
+<i>marcotis</i>; which, as far as we could judge, was not above from 25 to 50
+acres. That the size of the farms is in general exceedingly small,
+appears obviously from the immense number of farm-houses which are every
+where to be seen. The course and mode of cultivation appears to be
+precisely the same on the great and the small farms.</p>
+
+<p>The state of the people, both in French and Austrian Flanders, was most
+exceedingly comfortable. Not the smallest traces of dirt are to be seen,
+either in the exterior or the interior of the peasants dwellings. Their
+dress, as in France, is in general neat and substantial, covered with a
+light blue smock-frock, and without any appearance of abject want. The
+women in general appeared handsome, and very well clad. Every thing, in
+short, bespoke a rich, prosperous, and happy population.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Brussels</span> is a large, populous, and in many respects a handsome town. It
+stands upon the side of a hill, the lower part being the old town, and
+the higher the fashionable quarter. Near the centre of the old town is
+placed a square of considerable size, surrounded by high antiquated
+buildings of a most remarkable construction; and the <i>Hotel de Ville</i>,
+which occupies nearly one of its sides, is ornamented by a high Gothic
+spire of the lightest form, and the most exquisite proportions. The
+Cathedral is large, and has two massy towers in front; but the effect of
+the interior, which would otherwise be very grand, from its immense
+size, is much injured by statues affixed to the pillars, and an
+intermixture of red and white colours, with which the walls are painted.
+In this Cathedral, as well as in the churches throughout Flanders which
+we visited, we were much struck by the numbers of people who attended
+service, and the earnestness with which they seemed to participate in
+religious duty;&mdash;a spectacle which was the more impressive, from the
+levity or negligence with which we had been accustomed to see similar
+services attended in France.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Parc</i>, which is an immense square of splendid buildings, inclosing
+a great space, covered with fine timber, is probably the most
+magnificent square in Europe. The Royal Palace, and all the houses of
+the nobility, are here situated. There is nothing of the kind, either in
+Paris or London, which can be compared with this square, either in
+extent, the beauty of the private houses, or the richness and variety of
+the woods.</p>
+
+<p>At Brussels, we saw 1500 British troops on parade in the great square.
+We were particularly struck with the number and brilliant appearance of
+the officers. It would be going too far to say, that they understood
+their duty better than those of the allied armies; but they
+unquestionably have infinitely more of the appearance and manners of
+gentlemen. The proportion of officers to privates appeared much greater
+than in the other European armies; but the common soldiers had not
+nearly so sun-burnt; weather-beaten an appearance. Among the British
+troops, the Highlanders resembled most nearly the swarthy aspect of the
+foreign soldiers. The discipline of these troops was admirable; they
+were much beloved by the inhabitants, who recounted with delight
+numerous instances of their humanity and moderation. In this respect
+they formed a striking contrast to the Prussians, whose abuses and
+voracity were uniformly spoken of in terms of severe reprobation.</p>
+
+<p>The ramparts at Brussels, especially in the upper parts of the town, are
+planted with trees, and afford a delightful walk, commanding an
+extensive view over the adjacent country. The favourite promenade at
+Brussels, however, is the Allee Verte, situated two miles from the town,
+on the road to Antwerp, which forms a drive of two miles in length,
+under the shade of lofty trees. It was filled, when we saw it, with
+numerous parties of officers of all nations, principally German and
+British; and we could not help observing, how much more brilliant the
+appearance of our own countrymen was, than that of their brethren in any
+other service. Indeed they are taken from a different class of society:
+in the continental states, men, from inferior situations, enter the army
+with a view to obtain a subsistence; in the British service alone, men
+of rank and fortune leave the enjoyment and opulence of peaceful life,
+to share in the toils and the hardships of war.</p>
+
+<p>The Chateau of Lacken, now the royal dwelling, stands on an eminence in
+the vicinity of Brussels, commanding a delightful view over the environs
+of the city. There are few views in Flanders so magnificent as that from
+the summit of this palace. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, laid out in the English style, and arranged with much
+taste.</p>
+
+<p>The vicinity of Brussels is so much clothed with wood, as to resemble,
+when seen from the spires of the city, a continued forest. To the
+south-west, indeed, the whole country is covered with the vast forest of
+<i>Soignies</i>, clothing a range of gentle hills, which stretch as far as
+the field of Waterloo. The varieties of wood scenery which it exhibits,
+are exceedingly beautiful; and in many places, the oaks grow to an
+immense size, and present the most picturesque appearance. It was from
+this forest that Bonaparte obtained the timber for his great naval
+arsenal at Antwerp.</p>
+
+<p>To the south of Brussels, in the direction of Liege, and in the environs
+of that town, the country is covered with innumerable cottages, in the
+neatest order, inhabited by manufacturers, who carry on, <i>in their own
+houses</i>, the fabrics for which that city is so celebrated. These
+cottagers have all their gardens and houses in property; and the
+appearance of prosperity, which their dwellings uniformly exhibit, as
+well as the neatness of their dress, and the costly nature of their
+fare, demonstrate the salutary influence, which this intermixture of
+manufacturing and agricultural occupation is fitted to have on the
+character and habits of the lower orders of society. It resembles, in
+this particular, the state of the people in the West Riding of
+Yorkshire, and in the beautiful scenes of the vale of Gloucester.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of Brussels, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their neat gardens, their substantial
+dwellings, their comfortable dress, indicated here, as elsewhere in
+Flanders, the effects of long-continued and general prosperity. Most of
+these houses and gardens belong in property to the peasants; others are
+hired from the proprietors of the ground; but when this is the case,
+they generally have the advantage of a long lease. The peasants
+complained, in the bitterest terms, of the taxes and contributions of
+the French, stating that the public burdens had been more than
+quadrupled since they were separated from the Austrian Government, of
+which they still spoke in terms of affection and regret. The <i>impot
+fonciere</i>, or land-tax, under the French, amounted to one-fifth of
+the rent, or 20 <i>per cent</i>. The wages of labour were from 15 sous
+to one franc a-day; but the labourer dined with the farmer, his
+employer. Most of the land was laid out in garden cultivation, and
+every where tilled with the utmost care. The soil appeared rich and
+friable; and the crops, both of agricultural and garden produce, were
+extremely heavy. The rent was stated as varying from 60 to 150 francs
+<i>journatier</i>, which appeared to be about three-fourths of an
+acre.</p>
+
+<p>One thing struck us extremely in the condition of the people, both here
+and in other parts of Flanders&mdash;the sumptuous fare on which they live.
+It is a common thing to see artisans and mechanics sitting down to a
+dinner, at a table d'hôte, of ten or twelve dishes; such a dinner as
+would be esteemed excellent living in England. The lower orders of the
+people, the day labourers and peasants, seemed to live, generally
+speaking, in a very comfortable manner. Vegetables form a large portion
+of their food, and they are raised in large quantities, and great
+perfection, in all parts of the country.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Brussels, we took the road to Malines and Antwerp. The
+surface of the ground the whole way is perfectly flat, and much
+intersected by canals, on whose banks much rich pasture is to be seen.
+For the first six miles, the road is varied by chateaus and villas, laid
+out in the stiff antiquated style of French gardening. The cultivation
+between Brussels and Malines is all conducted in the garden style, and
+with the most incomparable neatness; but the cottages are formed of wood
+and mud, and exhibited more symptoms of dilapidation, than in any other
+part of the country which we had seen. Whether this was the consequence
+of the materials of which they are built, or was the result of some
+local institution, we were unable to determine.</p>
+
+<p>We saw a body of 3000 Prussian <i>landwehr</i> enter Brussels, shortly before
+we left the city. The appearance of these men was very striking. They
+had just terminated a march of 14 miles, under a burning sun, and were
+all covered with dust and sweat. Notwithstanding the military service in
+which they had been engaged, they still bore the appearance of their
+country occupations; their sun-burnt faces, their rugged features, and
+massy limbs, bespoke the life of laborious industry to which they had
+been habituated. They wore an uniform coat or frock, a military cap, and
+their arms and accoutrements were in the most admirable order; but in
+other respects, their dress was no other than what they had worn at
+home. The sight of these brave men told, in stronger language than words
+could convey, the grievous oppression to which Prussia had been
+subjected, and the unexampled valour with which her people had risen
+against the iron yoke of French dominion. They were not regular
+soldiers, raised for the ordinary service of the state, and arrayed in
+the costume of military life; they were not men of a separate
+profession, maintained by government for the purposes of defence; they
+were the <i>people of the country</i>, roused from their peaceful employments
+by the sense of public danger, and animated by the heroic determination
+to avenge the sufferings of their native land. The young were there,
+whose limbs were yet unequal to the weight of the arms which they had
+to bear; the aged were there, whose strength had been weakened by a life
+of labour and care; all, of whatever rank or station, marched alike in
+the ranks which their valour and their patriotism had formed. Their
+appearance suited the sacred cause in which they had been engaged, and
+marked the magnitude of the efforts which their country had made. They
+were still, in some measure, in the garb of rural life, but the
+determination of their step, the soldier-like regularity of their
+motions, and the enthusiastic expression of their countenances,
+indicated the unconquerable spirit by which they had been animated, and
+told the greatness of the sufferings which had at last awakened</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"The might that slumbers in a peasant's arm."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>There is no spectacle in the moral history of mankind more interesting
+or more sublime, than that which was exhibited by the people of the
+north of Germany in the last war. During the progress of the disastrous
+wars which succeeded the French revolution, the states of Germany
+experienced all the miseries of protracted warfare, and all the
+degradation of conquered power; but amidst the sufferings and
+humiliation to which they were subjected, the might of Germany was
+concentrating its power; the enthusiasm of her people was animating the
+soldier's courage, and the virtue of her inhabitants was sanctifying the
+soldier's cause: and when at last the hour of retribution arrived, when
+the sufferings of twenty years were to be revenged, and the disgrace of
+twenty years was to be effaced; it was by the energy of her people that
+these sufferings were revenged, and by the sacrifices of her people,
+that these victories were obtained. Crushed as they had been beneath the
+yoke of foreign dominion; shackled as they were by the fetters of
+foreign power, and unprotected as they long continued to be from the
+ravages of hostile revenge; the people of <span class="smcap">Prussia</span> boldly threw off the
+yoke, and hesitated not to encounter all the fury of imperial ambition,
+that they might redeem the glory which their ancestors had acquired, and
+defend the land which their forefathers had preserved. While Austria yet
+hung in doubt between the contending Powers; while the fate of the
+civilized world was yet pending on the shores of the Vistula, the whole
+body of the Prussian people flew to arms; they left their homes, their
+families, and all that was dear to them, without provision, and without
+defence: they trusted in God alone, and in the justice of their cause.
+This holy enthusiasm supported them in many an hour of difficulty and of
+danger, when they were left to its support alone; it animated them in
+the bloody field of Juterbock, and overthrew their enemies on the banks
+of the Katzback; it burned in the soldier's breast under the walls of
+Leipsic, and sustained the soldier's fortitude in the plains of
+Vauchamp: it terminated not till it had planted the Prussian eagle
+victorious on the ruins of that power, which had affected to despise the
+efforts of the Prussian people.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Malines is exceedingly neat, and ornamented by a great
+tower, of heavy architecture, producing a striking effect from every
+part of the adjoining country. The interior of the church, like that of
+all the other Catholic churches, is impressive to an English spectator,
+from the effect of its vast dimensions. The town was entirely filled by
+Prussian soldiers, and landwehr of the Prussian corps d'armee of Bulow,
+who went through their evolutions in the exactest discipline.</p>
+
+<p>From Malines to Antwerp the country is under a higher system of
+management, than in any other district of Flanders which we had seen. It
+is thickly planted with trees, insomuch as, from an eminence, to have
+the appearance of a continued forest. The landscape scenery, seen
+through the openings of the wood, and generally terminating in a village
+spire, is exceedingly beautiful, and reminded us of the scenes in
+Waterloo's engravings. Great quantities of potatoes and beans are to be
+seen in the fields, which are kept in the highest state of cultivation.
+The number of villages is extremely great; but the people, though so
+numerous, had all the appearance of being in a prosperous and happy
+condition.</p>
+
+<p>On approaching Antwerp, the trees and houses are all cut down, to give
+room for the fire of the cannon-shot from the ramparts of the fortress.
+We passed over this desolated space in the evening, soon after sunset,
+when the spires of the city had a beautiful effect on the fading colours
+of the western sky. High over all rose the spire of the cathedral, a
+most beautiful piece of the lightest Gothic, of immense height, and the
+most exquisite proportions. Though this building has stood for seven
+centuries, the carving of the pinnacles, and the finishing of the
+ornaments, are at this moment as perfect as the day they were formed;
+and when seen in shadow on an evening sky, present a spectacle which
+combines all that is majestic and graceful in Gothic architecture.</p>
+
+<p>After passing through the numerous gates, and over the multiplied
+bridges which surround this fortress, we found ourselves in the interior
+of Antwerp; a city of great interest, in consequence of the warlike
+preparations of which it had been the theatre, and the importance which
+had been attached to it by both parties in the recent contest. It is an
+extensive old city, evidently formed for a much more extensive commerce
+than it has now for a long period enjoyed. The form of the houses is
+singular, grotesque and irregular, offering at every turn the most
+picturesque forms to a painter's eye. We were soon conducted to the
+famous dockyard, constructed by Bonaparte, which had been the source of
+so much uneasiness to this country; and could not help being surprised
+at the smallness of the means which he had been able to obtain for the
+overthrow of our naval power. The docks did not appear to us at all
+large; but they are very deep, and during the siege, by the English and
+Prussian troops, contained 20 ships of the line, besides 14 frigates.
+When we saw them they were lying in the Scheldt, and being all within
+two miles of each other, presented a very magnificent spectacle.</p>
+
+<p>In the arsenal were 14 ships of the line on the stocks, of which seven
+were of 120 guns; but these vessels were all demolished except one,
+shortly after we left them, in virtue of an article in the treaty of
+Paris. Bonaparte had for long been exerting himself to the utmost to
+form a great naval depot at Antwerp; he had not only fortified the town
+in the strongest possible manner, but collected immense quantities of
+timber and other naval stores for the equipment of a powerful fleet. The
+ships first built, however, had been formed of wood, which was so ill
+seasoned, that, ever since their construction, above 200 carpenters had
+been employed annually to repair the beams which were going to decay.</p>
+
+<p>In the citadel, which is a beautiful fortification in the finest order,
+we conversed with various English soldiers who had been in the attack on
+Bergen-op-Zoom, of which they all spoke in terms of the utmost horror.
+Its failure they ascribed not to any error in the plan of attack, which
+they all agreed was most skilfully combined, but to a variety of
+circumstances which thwarted the attack, after its success appeared to
+have been certain. Our troops, they said, went round the ramparts, and
+carried every battery; but neglecting to spike the guns, the French came
+behind them, and turned the guns they had recently captured against
+themselves. Much also was attributed to the hesitation occasioned by the
+death of the principal officers, and the unfortunate effect of the
+discovery of some spirit cellars, from which the soldiers could not be
+restrained. We were much gratified, by hearing the warm and enthusiastic
+manner in which even the private soldiers spoke of their gallant
+commander, Sir Thomas Graham; While we admired the frank, open and
+independent spirit which these English soldiers in garrison at Antwerp
+evinced, we could not help observing, that they did not converse on
+military matters with nearly the same intelligence, or evince the same
+reflection on the man&#339;uvres of war, as those of the French imperial
+guard, with whom we had spoken in a former part of our journey.</p>
+
+<p>Though such extensive naval preparations had been going forward for
+years at Antwerp, there was not the slightest appearance of bustle at
+activity in the streets, or on the quays of the city. These were as
+deserted, as if Antwerp had been reduced to a fishing village,
+indicating, in the strongest manner, that nothing but the habits of
+commerce, and the command of the seas, can nurse that body of active
+seamen, who form the only foundation of naval power.</p>
+
+<p>There is a fine picture, by Oels, in the church of St Paul's at Antwerp;
+but the church itself is built in the most barbarous taste. The
+cathedral is a most magnificent building, both in the outside and
+inside; and its spire, which is 460 feet in height, is probably the
+finest specimen of light Gothic in the world. Its immense aisles were
+filled at every hour of the day, by numbers of people, who seemed to
+join in the service with sincere devotion, and exhibited the example of
+a country, in which religious feeling was generally diffused among the
+people&mdash;which formed a striking contrast to the utter indifference to
+these subjects which universally prevails in France.</p>
+
+<p>It was not a mere vain threat on the part of Napoleon, that he would
+burn the English manufactures. We were informed at Antwerp by
+eye-witnesses, that they had seen £. 90,000 worth of English goods
+burnt at once in the great square of that city; all of which <i>had been
+bought and paid for</i> by the Flemish merchants. The people then spoke in
+terms of great sorrow, of the ruin which this barbarous policy had
+brought upon the people of the countries in which it was carried into
+effect.</p>
+
+<p>In the vicinity of Antwerp, we walked over the <i>Counter Dyke of
+Couvestein</i>, which was the scene of such desperate conflicts between the
+army of the Prince of Parma, and the troops of the United Provinces, who
+were advancing to the relief of Antwerp. The interest arising from the
+remembrance of this memorable struggle, was increased by the narrowness
+of the ground on which the action was maintained, being a long dyke
+running across the low country which borders the banks of the Scheldt
+near Fort Lillo, and which alone of all the surrounding country, at the
+time of the action, was not immersed in water. Every foot, therefore, of
+the ground of this dyke which we trod, must have been the spot on which
+a desperate struggle had been maintained. In casting our eyes back to
+the distant spires of the city of Antwerp, we could not help entering
+for an instant, into the feelings of the people who were then besieged;
+and remembering that these spires, which now rose so beautifully on the
+distant horizon, were then crowded with people, who awaited with
+dreadful anxiety, in the issue of the action which was then pending, the
+future fate of themselves and their children.</p>
+
+<p>To those who take an interest in the delightful study of political
+economy, and who have examined the condition of the people in different
+countries, with a view to discover the causes of their welfare or their
+suffering, there is no spectacle so interesting as that which the
+situation of the people in Flanders affords. The country is uniformly
+populous in the extreme; go where you will, you every where meet with
+the marks of a dense population; yet no where are the symptoms of
+general misery to be found; no where does the principle of population
+seem to press beyond the limits assigned for the comfortable maintenance
+of the human species. Flanders has exhibited, for centuries, the
+instance of a <i>numerous, dense, and happy population</i>. It would perhaps
+not be unreasonable to conclude, from this circumstance, that the
+doctrines now generally admitted in regard to the increase of the human
+species have been received with too little examination. Man possesses
+in himself the principles requisite for the regulation of the increase
+of the numbers of mankind; and where the influence of government does
+not interfere with their operation, they are sufficient to regulate the
+progress of population according to the interest and welfare of all
+classes of the people.</p>
+
+
+<p class="c smcap top15">end of volume first.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h1>TRAVELS IN FRANCE,</h1>
+
+<div class="bold">
+<p class="c">DURING THE YEARS</p>
+
+<p class="c">1814-15.</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">comprising a</p>
+
+<p class="c">RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">and</p>
+
+<p class="c">AT AIX,</p>
+
+<p class="c"><i>AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF</i></p>
+
+<p class="c">BONAPARTE.</p>
+<p  class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="c">IN TWO VOLUMES.</p>
+
+<p class="c">SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.</p>
+
+<p class="c">EDINBURGH:</p>
+
+<p class="c smcap">printed for macredie, skelly, and muckersy, 52. prince's street;<br />
+longman, hurst. rees, orme, and brown; black,<br />
+parry, and co. t. underwood, london;<br />
+and j. cumming, dublin.</p>
+<p  class="c">&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+<p class="c">1816.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>VOLUME II.</h2>
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_a_I" id="CHAPTER_a_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">JOURNEY TO AIX.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">I</span><span class="smcap">t</span>
+was thought advisable, by the gentleman who is now about to commence
+his journal, to avoid making many remarks on the state of the country,
+or the manners of the inhabitants, until he should have remained fixed
+for a few months in France. In no country is it so difficult as there,
+to obtain information regarding the most interesting points, whether
+commerce, manufactures, agriculture, manners, or religion; and this
+arises from the multitude of people of all descriptions, who are
+willing, and who at least appear able, to afford you information.
+Strange paradox. A Frenchman makes it a rule, never to refuse
+information on any subject when it is demanded of him; and although he
+may, in fact, never have directed his attention to the matter in
+question, and may not possess the slightest information, he will yet
+descant most plausibly, and then seeking some opportunity of bidding you
+good day, he will fly off with the velocity of an arrow, leaving you
+astonished at the talent displayed: But sit down and analyse what he has
+said, and you will commonly find it the most thorough trifling&mdash;"<i>vox et
+pr&#339;terea nihil</i>." This observation, however, I mean only to apply to the
+information which a traveller obtains <i>en passant</i>; for there are
+undoubtedly to be found in France, men of eminent talents and of solid
+information; but these you can only pick out from the mass of common
+acquaintances, by dint of perseverance, and by the assistance of time.
+The result of the observations collected during a residence of five
+months at Aix, in Provence, will be given at the end of the following
+Journal.</p>
+
+
+<h3>JOURNAL.</h3>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">A</span><span class="smcap">s</span>
+our present journey was undertaken principally for the benefit of my
+health, it was necessary that we should travel slowly, and take
+occasional rests. After our journey from Dieppe to the capital, we
+remained five days in Paris for this purpose. The first part of this
+book having conducted the reader by another route to Paris, and given a
+better description of that city than I am able to supply, I have not
+thought it necessary to insert the details of our journey thither; I
+shall content myself with remarking, that we had already gained
+considerable experience in French travelling, and were pretty well
+prepared to commence our journey toward the south.&mdash;On the 7th of
+November, therefore, we arranged matters for our departure with the
+<i>voiturier</i>, or carriage-hirer, who agrees to carry us (six in number),
+with all our baggage, which weighs nearly four cwt. to Lyons, a distance
+of 330 miles, for the sum of 630 francs, or, at our exchange, nearly
+L.30. As this bargain was made for us by Mr B&mdash;&mdash;, a French gentleman,
+it may afford a good standard for this style of travelling.</p>
+
+<p>We travel at the rate of 10 or 12 leagues a-day; and for invalids or
+persons wishing to see the country, this is by far the most pleasant, as
+well as the most economical way. There are two other methods of
+travelling, namely, <i>en poste</i>, which, though rapid, is very expensive;
+the charge being, at least a horse, often more, for each person, and
+very little baggage being taken; and the other is in a diligence, which,
+as it travels night and day, would not do for us. The carriage we now
+have is a large and commodious coach, very neat and clean, and we have
+three good strong horses. Our journey has as yet been varied by very
+little incident. The amusement derived from travelling in a foreign
+country, and becoming gradually familiarised to foreign manners,&mdash;the
+contrast between the style of travelling here, and that which you are
+accustomed to in England,&mdash;the amusing groupes of the villagers, who
+flock out of their houses, to see the English pass,&mdash;the grotesque and
+ludicrous figures of the French beggars, who, in the most unbounded
+variety of costume, surround the carriage the moment we stop,&mdash;and the
+solemn taciturnity of Monsieur Roger, our coachman, who is an
+extraordinary exception to the general vivacity of his nation; these are
+the only circumstances which serve at present to exhilarate our spirits,
+and to remove the tedium of French travelling.</p>
+
+<p>Between Paris and Montargis, as we travelled during the day, we had a
+good opportunity of seeing the country. But we passed through it, to be
+sure, at an unfavourable season of the year. The vines were all
+withered, and their last leaves falling off. The elm, oak, and maple,
+were almost bare. There is not much fine wood in that part of the
+country through which we passed; and on the side of the road, there were
+many wild and sad looking swamps, with nothing but willow and poplars
+docked off for the twigs. The chief produce seems to be in grapes and
+wheat; the wheat here is further advanced than between Dieppe and Paris.
+The cows are of the same kind, the horses smaller, weaker, and yet
+dearer than those of Normandy; the agricultural instruments are massy
+and awkward; their ploughing is, however, very neat and regular, though
+not deep; their plough here has wheels, and seems easily managed; they
+harrow the land most effectually, having sometimes 10 or 12 horses in
+succession, each drawing a separate harrow over the same ground. The
+farm-horses, though very poor to an English eye, are fortunately much
+better than the horses for travelling. The stacks of grain, though
+rarely seen, are very neatly built. We left the grand road at
+Fontainbleau, and took the route by Nevers to Lyons. We have found it
+hitherto by no means equal to the other. No stone causeway in the
+middle, and at this time of the year, I should fear it is always as we
+found it, very heavy and dirty.</p>
+
+<p>Our journey hitherto has not allowed of our mixing much among or
+conversing with the people; but still we cannot but be struck with the
+dissimilarity of manners from those of our own country. The French are
+not now uniformly, found the same merry, careless, polite, and sociable
+people they were before the revolution; but we may trust that they are
+gradually improving; and although one can easily distinguish among the
+lower ranks, the fierce uncivilized ruffians, who have been raised from
+their original insignificance by Napoleon to work his own ends, yet the
+real peasantry of the country are generally polite.</p>
+
+<p>At the inns, the valets and ostlers were for the most part old soldiers
+who had marched under Napoleon; they seemed happy, or at least always
+expressed themselves happy, at being allowed to return to their homes:
+one of them was particularly eloquent in describing the horrors of the
+last few months; he concluded by saying, "that had things gone on in
+this way for a few months longer, Napoleon must have made the women
+march." They affirm, however, that there is a party favourable to
+Bonaparte, consisting of those whose trade is war, and who have lived by
+his continuance on the throne; but that this party is not strong, and
+little to be feared: Would that this were true! When we were in Paris,
+there were a number of caricatures ridiculing the Bourbons; but these
+miserable squibs are no test of the public feeling. Napoleon certainly
+has done much for Paris; the marks of his magnificence are there every
+where to be seen; but the further we travel, the more are we convinced
+that he has done littler for the interior of the country.</p>
+
+<p>There is about every town and village an air of desolation; most of the
+houses seem to have wanted repairs for a long time. The inns must strike
+every English traveller, as being of a kind entirely new to him. They
+are like great old castles half furnished. The dirty chimneys suit but
+ill with the marble chimney-pieces, and the gilded chairs and mirrors,
+plundered in the revolution; the tables from which you eat are of ill
+polished common wood; the linen coarse though clean. The cutlery, where
+they have any, is very bad; but in many of the inns, trusting, no doubt,
+to the well known expedition of French fingers, they put down only forks
+to dinner.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Montargis at seven in the morning, and travelled very slowly
+indeed. At five o'clock, after a very tedious journey, we arrived at
+Briare, a distance of only 27 miles from Montargis. The landlord here
+was the most talkative, and the most impudent fellow I ever saw.
+Although demanding the most unreasonable terms, he would not let us
+leave his house; at last he said that he would agree to our terms,
+namely, 18 francs for our supper and beds: It is best to call it supper
+in France, as this is their own phrase for a meal taken at night.</p>
+
+<p>The road between Montargis and Briare, though not of hard mettle and
+without causeway, is yet level and in good condition. The country,
+except in the immediate vicinity of Briare, is flat and uninteresting;
+no inclosures; the soil of a gravelly nature, mixed in some parts with
+chalk. It seems, from the stubble of last year and the young wheat of
+this, to be very poor indeed. There is here an odd species of wheat
+cultivation, in which the grain, like our potatoes, is seen growing on
+the tops of high separate ridges. It struck me that the deep hollows
+left between each ridge, might be intended to keep the water. The
+instruments of agriculture are quite the same as we have seen all along.
+Almost all of the peasants whom we saw to-day wore cocked hats, and had
+splendid military tails; we supposed, at first that they had all
+<i>marched</i>. There are great numbers of soldiers returning to their homes,
+pale, broken down and wearied. Some of them very polite, many of them
+rough and ruffian-looking enough. About Briare, there are innumerable
+vineyards, and yet we had very bad grapes; but that was our landlord's
+fault, not that of the vines.</p>
+
+<p>The rooms at this inn (Au Grand Dauphin), smoke like the devil, or
+rather like his abode. It is a wretched place; the inn opposite, called
+La Poste, is said to be better. The weather is now as cold here (10th of
+November), as I have ever felt it in winter at home, and it is a more
+piercing and searching cold.</p>
+
+<p>We had last night a good deal of rain. The weather is completely broken
+up, and we are at least three weeks or a month later than we ought to
+have been.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span>
+have arrived at Cosne to-night, (the 11th), after a journey through a
+country better wooded, more varied, and upon the whole, finer than we
+have seen yet on this side of Paris, though certainly not so beautiful
+as Normandy. The road is pretty good, though not paved, excepting in
+small deep vallies. It lies along-side of the river Loire, and on each
+side, there are well cultivated fields, chiefly of wheat, but
+interspersed with vineyards.</p>
+
+<p>For the first time, this day we had a very severe frost in the morning,
+but with the aid of the sun, which shone bright and warm, we enjoyed one
+of the finest days I ever saw. I sat and chatted with the coachman, or
+rather with Monsieur le Voiturier. I led the conversation to the past
+and present state of France, and the character of Napoleon, and
+immediately he, who till this moment appeared to be as meek and gentle
+as a lamb, became the most eloquent and energetic man I have seen. It is
+quite wonderful, how the feelings of the people, added to their habits
+of extolling their own efforts, and those of Bonaparte, supply them with
+language. They are on this subject all orators. He declared, that Paris
+was sold by Marmont and others, but that we English do not understand
+what the Parisians mean when they say that Paris was sold. They do not
+mean that any one was paid for betraying his trust by receiving a bribe,
+but that Marmont and others having become very rich under Bonaparte,
+desired to spend their fortunes in peace, and had, therefore, deserted
+their master. He said that Bonaparte erred only in having too many
+things to do at once; but that if he had either relinquished the Spanish
+war for a while, or not gone to Moscow, no human power would have <i>been
+a match for him</i>, and even we in England would have felt this. He seemed
+to think, that it was an easy thing for Bonaparte to have equipped as
+good a navy as ours. He was quite insensible to the argument, that it
+was first necessary to have commerce, which nourishes our mariners, from
+among whom we have our fighting seamen. He said, that though <i>this was a
+work of years for others, it would have been nothing for Napoleon</i>: In
+short, he venerates the man, and says, that till the day when he left
+Paris, he was the greatest of men. He says, he knows well that there is
+still a strong party favourable to him among the military; yet that if
+they can once be set down at their own firesides, they will never wish
+to quit them, but that the danger will be, while they remain together in
+great bodies.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we saw several soldiers wounded, and returning to their homes in
+carts; they were fierce swarthy looking fellows, but very merry, and
+travelled singing all the way. To-morrow we expect to be at Nevers. At
+Cosne, the only objects of curiosity to the traveller are the
+manufactories of cutlery and ship anchors. The cutlery seems as good as
+any we have seen, but far inferior to even our inferior English cutlery:
+It is also dear. Thousands of boxes, with cutlery, were, immediately on
+our arrival at the inn, presented to us. Their great deficiency is in
+steel, for their best goods are nearly as highly polished as in England.
+We bought here some very pretty little toys for children, made of small
+coloured beads. We start to-morrow at six.&mdash;&mdash;Distance about 19
+miles to Cosne.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> day's journey (the 12th), was the most fatiguing and the least
+interesting we have had. The country between Cosne and Nevers is, with
+the exception of one or two fine views from the heights on the road, the
+poorest, and, though well cultivated, has the least pretensions to
+beauty of any we have seen, particularly in the vicinity of Pouilly. It
+seems also to be nearly as poor as it is ugly. The soil is gravelly,
+with a mixture of chalk, and there occurs what I have not yet elsewhere
+seen, a great deal of fallow land, and even some common. The face of the
+country is considerably diversified by old wood, but we have only seen
+one plantation of young trees since we left Paris. The instruments of
+agriculture and carriage the same as before mentioned. The farm horses
+good. There seems a scarcity of milk, but this may be from the winter
+having set in. At the inn here I met with a young officer, who although
+only (to appearance) 17 or 18, had been in the Spanish war, at Moscow,
+and half over the world. He struck his forehead, when he said, <a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>"Nous
+n'avons plus la guerre." There were at the inn here a number of officers
+and soldiers of the cavalry. Their horses are not to be compared with
+ours, either in size or beauty, and those of their officers are not so
+good, by any means, as the horses of our men in the guards.&mdash;&mdash;
+Distance, 34 miles&mdash;to Nevers.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> went to walk in the town this morning, the 13th. The description of
+one French town on the Sunday will serve for all which we have seen.
+They are every day sufficiently filthy, but on Sunday, from the
+concourse of people, more than commonly so. They never have a pavement
+to fly to for clean walking, and for safety from the carriages. If you
+are near a shop, a lane, or entry when a carriage comes along, you may
+fly in, if not, you must trust to the civility of the coachman, who, if
+polite, will only splash you all over. On Sundays, their markets are
+held the same as on other days, and nearly all the shops had their doors
+open, but <i>their windows shut</i>. Thus they cheat the Devil, and, as they
+think, render sufficient homage to him who hath said, on that day "thou
+shalt do no manner of work." Yet while all this is going on, the
+churches are open, and those who are inclined go in, and take a minute,
+a quarter, half an hour, or an hour's devotion, as they think fit. We
+entered the nearest of these churches, and saw, what is always to be
+seen in them, a great deal, at least, of the outward shew of religion,
+and something in a few individuals of the congregation which looked like
+real devotion. After church, we went to the convent of St Mary, and were
+all admitted, both ladies and gentlemen. The nuns there are not, by any
+means, strictly confined; they are of that description who go abroad and
+attend the sick. Their pensioners (chiefly children from four to
+sixteen) are allowed to go and see their friends; and they were all
+presented to us. They are taught to read, write, work, &amp;c. and are well
+fed and clothed. This convent was very neat and clean. The building
+formed a complete square, and the ground in the interior was very
+beautifully laid out as a garden. The cloisters were ornamented with
+pots of roses and carnations in full bloom, with the care of which the
+young pensioners amused themselves. They have a very pretty small
+chapel, over the outer door of which is written, <a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>"Grand silence;" and
+over the inner this inscription; whose menacing promises is so ill
+suited to the spirit and temper of its conclusion: "Ah, que ce maison
+est terrible, c'est la maison de Dieu, et la porte du ciel." The holy
+sisters were of all ages, and many of them pretty&mdash;one, the handsomest
+woman I have seen in France.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies are just returned from a longer walk, and report the town to
+be ugly, and the streets insufferably dirty. Its manufactures are china,
+glass, and enamelled goods; toys of glass beads, and little trifles. The
+shopkeepers are, as in every town we have been at, perfect Jews, devoid
+of any thing like principle in buying and selling. We are every day
+learning more and more how to overcome our scruples with regard to
+<i>beating them down</i>. They always expect it, and only laugh at those who
+do not practise it.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> day we left Nevers at six in the morning. It appears to be a large
+town, when viewed from the bridge over which we crossed; but it is far
+from being a fine town in the interior. The streets are, like all French
+streets, narrow, and the houses have a look of antiquity, and a want of
+all repair; nothing like comfort, neatness, or tidiness, in any one of
+them. This is a melancholy desideratum in France, a want for which
+nothing can compensate. The road this day conducted us through a finer
+district than we have observed on this side of Paris; more especially
+between Nevers and St Pierre, where we have travelled through a richer
+and more beautiful country than we have yet seen. No longer the sand,
+and gravel, and chalk, which we have long been accustomed to, but a dark
+rich soil over a bed of freestone. Here also all the land is well
+enclosed. I have not yet been able to find the reason of this sudden
+change in the manner of preserving the fields: The face of the country
+is also more generally wooded; but from the necessity the French are
+under of cutting down whatever wood they find near the towns for their
+fires, all the fine trees are ruined in appearance, by their branches
+being lopped off: The effect of this on the appearance of the country is
+very sad.&mdash;Still we find a want of that agreeable alternation of hill
+and dale, of the enclosed meadows, and wooded vallies; of the broad and
+beautiful rivers and the small winding streams, which, as the finest
+features in their native landscape, have become necessary to a Scotch or
+an English eye.</p>
+
+<p>The dress of the women is here different from what we have elsewhere
+seen: the peasants' wives wearing large gipsey straw hats, very much
+turned up behind and before; the men have still the immense
+broad-brimmed black felt affairs, more like umbrellas than Christian
+hats. At the inn here, I saw a number of wounded soldiers returning to
+their homes; one of them, I observed, had his feet outside of his shoes.
+On entering into conversation with him, he told me that his toes had
+been nearly frozen off, but <i>that he expected to get them healed</i>: poor
+fellow, he was not above twenty. He told me that all the <i>young
+conscripts</i> were delighted to return to their homes, and that only the
+old veterans were friends to the war.&mdash;I hope this may be true, but I
+doubt it. The country here shows that the winter is not so far advanced;
+many of the trees are still green; the roads had become heavy with the
+rain that has fallen; we have had two days hard frost, but to-day the
+weather is mild, and the air moist. We were recommended to the Hotel des
+Allies here, but preferred stopping at the first good-looking inn we
+found, as in great towns things are very dear at the houses of great
+resort; we have had a very good supper and tolerable lodgings for 18
+francs.</p>
+
+<p>To-morrow, we set out at seven.&mdash;We find our way of travelling tedious;
+but I think in summer it would be by far the best. Our three horses
+seldom take less than 10, sometimes 13 hours to their day's journey, of
+from 28 to 32 miles; but our carriage is large and roomy; and had we any
+thing like comfort at our inns, as at home, we should find the
+travelling very pleasant. The greatest annoyance arises from your having
+always to choose from the two evils, of being either shamefully imposed
+upon, or of having to bargain before-hand for the price of your
+entertainment.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was near eight o'clock this morning, the 16th, before we got under
+weigh, and according to our coachman's account, we had been delayed by
+the horses being too much fatigued the night before. He continued to
+proceed so slowly, that we only reached Varrenes at four o'clock, a
+distance of 22 miles from Moulins, where we had last slept. Moulins is
+the finest town we have seen since we left Paris. The streets are there
+wider, and the houses, though old and black, are on a much better plan,
+and in better repair than any we have passed through; there is also
+somewhat of neatness and cleanliness about them. It is famous for its
+cutlery, and has a small manufacture of silk stockings; we saw some of
+the cutlery very neat and highly polished in some parts, but coarse and
+ill finished in others. The variety of shapes which the French give
+their knives is very amusing.</p>
+
+<p>The road between Moulins and Varrenes is through a much prettier country
+than we have seen since we left Paris; there is more wood, with
+occasional variety of orchards and vineyards and corn fields. The
+ploughing, is here carried on by bullocks, and these are also used in
+the carts. All the country is enclosed, and the lands well dressed. The
+wheat is not nearly so far advanced here, which must arise from its
+being more lately sowed, for the winter is only commencing; many of the
+trees are still in fall leaf.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot well judge of any change of climate, as we have just had a
+change from hard frost to thaw; but every thing has the appearance of a
+milder atmosphere. I enquired into the reason of the want of hedges
+hitherto, and their abundance here, and was told, that it arose from the
+greater subdivision of property as well as from the number of cows: that
+every man almost had his little piece of land, and his cow, pigs, hens,
+&amp;c. and that they could not afford to have herds. The yoke of the
+bullocks here, is not, as in India, and in England, placed on the neck
+and shoulders, but on the forehead and horns: this, though to appearance
+the most irksome to the poor animals, is said here to be the way in
+which they work best. The sheep are very small, and of a long-legged and
+poor kind: the hogs are the poorest I have ever seen; they are as like
+the sheep as possible, though with longer legs, and resembling
+greyhounds in the drawn-up belly and long slender snout; they seem
+content with wondrous little, and keep about the road sides, picking up
+any thing but wholesome food.</p>
+
+<p>The cottages on the road, and in the small towns, are generally very
+dirty, and inhabited by a very motley and promiscuous set of beings; the
+men, women, children, indeed pigs, fowls, &amp;c. all huddled together. The
+pigs here appear so well accustomed to a cordial welcome in the houses,
+that when by chance excluded, you see them impatiently rapping at the
+door with their snouts.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Varrenes this morning, at six o'clock, and entered on a new
+country, which presented to us a greater variety of scenery. The road
+between Varrenes and St Martin D'Estreaux is almost all the way among
+the hills, which are often covered to the top with wood. After
+travelling for so long a time through a country which was almost
+uniformly flat, our sensations were delightful in again approaching
+something like a hilly district. The roads we found extremely bad, and
+although we have had rain, I do not think that their condition is to be
+ascribed to the weather. They want repair, and appear to have been
+insufficient in their metal from the first. We were obliged here to have
+a fourth horse, which our coachman ordered and paid for; he went with us
+as far as Droiturier, and then left us. We made out 28 miles of bad
+road, between six in the morning and four in the evening. The hilly
+country throughout is extremely well cultivated, and the soil apparently
+pretty good. France has indeed shewn a different face from what an
+Englishman would expect, after such a draining of men and money.</p>
+
+<p>In our route to-day, the country became very interesting, the swelling
+hills were beautiful, and the first clear stream we have seen in France
+winded through a wooded valley, along whose side we travelled. Many
+little cottages were scattered up and down in the green intervals of the
+woods, or crept up the brows of the hills; and after the monotonous
+plains we had passed, the whole scene was truly delightful. At the inn
+at La Palisse, I met with a very pleasant French lady, who strongly
+advised me to avoid Montpellier, as the winds there are very sharp in
+winter; she said two friends of her's had been sent from it on account
+of complaints contracted there. She recommended Nice.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p>(<i>Thursday</i>, 17th.)&mdash;The road to-day was through ranges of hills, and,
+for the latter part of it, we were obliged to have a fourth horse. The
+road very heavy in most places, and in some wretchedly ill-paved, with
+stones of unequal size, and not squared. From the top of these hills the
+view of the several vallies through which we passed was very beautiful,
+though certainly not equal in beauty to Devonshire, or to some parts of
+Perthshire, and other of the more fertile districts in Scotland: the
+soil far from good, and the crops of wheat thin;&mdash;yet there is not an
+atom of the soil lying waste, the hills being cultivated up to the
+summit. The cultivation is still managed by oxen, as is the carriage of
+farm produce, and all kinds of cart-work. They have had a sad mortality
+among the cattle about St Germain L'Epinàsse; and all things appear to
+have been affected by this disaster, for we found the milk, butter,
+fowls, grain, every thing very dear indeed. In France, when a disease
+seizes the cattle, parties of soldiers are sent to prevent the people
+from selling their cattle, or sending them to other parts of the
+country. One of these parties (a small troop of dragoons) we met on the
+road.</p>
+
+<p>On our route to-day, we crossed the Loire at a pretty large and busy
+town, called Roanne. The river here is very large, but has only a wooden
+bridge over it: there are some fine arches, forming the commencement of
+a most magnificent new stone bridge, the work of Napoleon; the work had
+the appearance of having been some time interrupted. Alas, that the good
+King cannot continue such works!</p>
+
+<p>Here, for the first time, we saw coals, and in great quantity; the boats
+on which they are carried, are long, square flat-bottomed boxes.
+Although in a mountainous country, and with a poor soil, the houses of
+the peasants were here much better than any we have seen, though a good
+deal out of repair; they are high and comfortable, having many of them
+two flats, and all with windows. We saw a number of fields in which the
+people were turning up and dressing the soil with spades: This, and
+indeed many other things in this mountainous part of the country,
+reminded me of parts of the Highlands of Scotland, and the island of St
+Helena. But it would not be easy to conceive yourself transported to
+those parts of the world, when here you every now and then encounter a
+peasant in a cocked hat, with a red velvet coat, or with blue velvet
+breeches: this proclaims us near Lyons, the country of silks and
+velvets. The climate is very delightful at present; during a great part
+of to-day, I sat on the box with <i>Monsieur le Voiturier</i>, who is now
+become so attached to us, that I think he will go with us to our
+journey's end. He is a most excellent, sober and discreet man, and has
+given us no trouble, and ample satisfaction. To-day, we passed two very
+pretty clear streams. The country seats are numerous here, but none of
+those that we have yet seen are fine; they are either like the very old
+English manor-houses, or if of a later date, are like large
+manufactories; a mass of regular windows, and all in ruinous condition;
+nothing like fine architecture have we yet met with. To-morrow we start
+again at six, and hope to sleep within four leagues of Lyons.&mdash;&mdash;
+Distance 34 miles&mdash;to St Simphorien de Lay.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> morning, we set off, as usual, at six, and only made out in five
+hours a distance of 16 miles, arriving at the small town of Tarrare,
+which is beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. This difficulty
+in travelling is occasioned by the road being extremely precipitous. It
+winds, however, for several miles very beautifully through the valley,
+by the banks of a clear stream; and the hills which rise on each side,
+are in many places cultivated to the top, while others are richly
+wooded: towards the bases they slope into meadows, which are now as
+green as in the middle of summer, and where the cows are grazing by the
+water-side. The air is warm and pleasant, the sky unclouded, and the
+light of a glorious sun renders every object gay and beautiful. This
+valley is, I think, much more beautiful than any part of France we have
+yet seen. Through the passes in the hills, we have had some very fine
+peeps at the country to which we are travelling. Every inch of the
+ground on these mountains is turned to good account; as the grass, from
+the soil and exposure, is very scanty, the peasants make use of the same
+method of irrigating as at St Helena. Where there is found a spring of
+water, they form large reservoirs into which it is received, and from
+these reservoirs they lead off small channels, which overflow the field,
+and give an artificial moisture to the soil. The houses of the peasants
+are still excellent, but there appears a great want of cattle. The
+fields are ploughed with oxen, very small and lean; we had two of them
+to assist us on the way from St Simphorien to Pain Bouchain.</p>
+
+<p>At Tarrare, I am sorry to say, we found a want of almost every comfort.
+It is a pretty large town, neater in exterior appearance than any we
+have seen, but very dirty within; it is famous for its muslins and
+calicoes.&mdash;&mdash;All this day we have had nothing but constant ascending
+and descending; the country occasionally very fine, and always well
+cultivated. The ploughs here are very small and ill made; they have no
+wheels, and are drawn by oxen. Some of the valleys in our route to-day
+would be beyond any thing beautiful, if varied with a few of those fine
+trees, which we are accustomed to meet with every day in England and
+Scotland; but the manner in which the French trees are cut, clipped, and
+hacked, renders them very disgusting to our eyes. I have not seen one
+truly fine tree since we left Paris, about the environs of which there
+are a few. There is also a great scarcity of gentlemen's seats, of
+castles and other buildings, and of gardens of every kind. France, one
+would suppose, ought to be the country of flowers; but not one flower
+garden have we yet seen.&mdash;&mdash;Distance about 31 miles&mdash;to the
+Half-way-House, between Arras and Salvagny.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p>(<i>Saturday, 18th.</i>)&mdash;We left the inn at the half-way village, whose name
+I forgot to ask, between Arras and Salvagny, at six this morning, and
+arrived at Lyons at half-past ten. On the subject of to-day's route very
+little can be said. The first part of it conducted over a long
+succession of very steep hills, for about four miles, after which we
+descended through a fine varied country to the city of Lyons.&mdash;&mdash;
+Distance, 16 miles to Lyons.</p>
+
+<p>Lyons is certainly a fine town, although, like Paris, it has only a few
+fine public buildings, among a number of very old and ruinous-looking
+houses. It is chiefly owing to the ideas of riches and commerce with
+which both of these towns <i>are connected</i>, that we would call them
+<i>fine</i>, for they have neither fine streets nor fine ranges of houses. I
+need not mention, that Lyons is the place of manufacture for all kinds
+of silks, velvets, ribbons, fringes, &amp;c. But here, as at many
+manufactories, things bought by retail are as dear, or even dearer, than
+at Paris. The ladies of our party had built castles in the air all the
+way to Lyons; but they found every thing dearer than at Paris, and
+almost as dear as in England.</p>
+
+<p>Now that I have seen a little of the manners and dress of the people in
+the two largest towns in France, I may hazard a few observations on
+these subjects. I think it is chiefly among the lower ranks that the
+superior politeness of the French is apparent. Although you still find
+out the ruffians and banditti who have figured on the stage under
+Napoleon, yet the greater, by far the greater number, are mild,
+cheerful, and obliging. A common Frenchman, in the street, if asked the
+way to a place, will generally either point it out very clearly, or say,
+"Allow me to accompany you, Sir." Among the higher ranks of society you
+will find many obliging people; but you will also discover many whose
+situation alone can sanction your calling them gentlemen. There
+appears, moreover, in France, to be a sort of blending together of the
+high and low ranks of society, which has a bad effect on the more
+polite, without at all bettering the manners of the more uncivilized. To
+discover who are gentlemen, and who are not, without previously knowing
+something of them, or at least entering into conversation, is very
+difficult. In England, all the middling ranks dress so well, that you
+are puzzled to find out the gentleman. In France, they dress so ill in
+the higher ranks, that you cannot distinguish them from the lower. One
+is often induced to think, that those must be gentlemen who wear orders
+and ribbons at their buttons, but, alas! almost every one in France at
+the present day has one of these ribbons. In the dress of the women
+there is still less to be found that points out the distinction of their
+ranks. To my eye, they are all wretchedly ill dressed, for they wear the
+same dark and dirty-looking calicoes which our Scotch maid-servants wear
+only on week days. This gives to their dress an air of meanness; but
+here the English ought to consider, that these cotton goods are in
+France highly valued, and very dear, from their scarcity. Over these
+dresses they wear (at present) small imitation shawls, of wool, silk,
+or cotton. They have very short petticoats, and shew very neat legs and
+ankles, but covered only with coarse cotton stockings, seldom very
+white; often with black worsted stockings. I have not seen one
+handsomely dressed woman as yet in France; the best had always an air of
+shabbiness about her, which no milliner's daughter at home would shew.
+They are said to dress much more gaily in the evening. When we mix a
+little more in French society, we shall be able to judge of this.</p>
+
+<p>This want of elegance and richness in dress, is, I think, one of the
+marks of poverty in France. I have mentioned before the ruinous
+appearance of the villages and houses. The excessive numbers of beggars
+is another. The French themselves say that there is a great want of
+money in France; they affirm that there is no scarcity of men, and that
+with more money the French could have fought for many years to come.
+They certainly are the vainest people in the universe; they have often
+told me, <i>that could Bonaparte have continued his blockade of the
+Continental trade a few months more, England would have been undone</i>.
+They sometimes confess, that they would have been rather at a loss for
+Coffee, Sugar, and Cotton, had we continued our war with the Americans,
+who were their carriers. The want of the first of these articles would
+annoy any country, but in France they cannot live without it: in England
+they might.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">This</span> day, <i>Monday</i> the 20th, we left Lyons at one o'clock in the
+forenoon, travelling in most unfavourable weather, and through almost
+impassable streets. The situation of Lyons is beautiful; the site of the
+town is at the conflux of the Soane and the Rhone; a fine ridge of hills
+rises behind the city; the innumerable houses which are scattered up and
+down the heights, the fine variety of wood and cultivation, and the
+little villages which you discern at a distance in the vallies, give it
+the appearance of a romantic, yet populous and delightful neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>We were not able to see much of the interior of the town; but in passing
+once or twice through the principal streets, and more particularly in
+leaving the town, we had a good view of the public buildings. Many of
+them are very fine, and the whole town has an appearance of wealth, the
+effect of commerce. But a better idea of the wealth is given, by the
+innumerable loads of goods of different kinds, which you meet with on
+the roads in the vicinity of this favoured city, on the Paris and
+Marseilles sides of the town. The roads are completely ploughed up at
+this season of the year, and almost impassable. The waggoners are even a
+more independent set of men than with us in England; they keep their
+waggons in the very middle of the road, and will not move for the
+highest nobleman in the land; this, however, is contrary to the police
+regulations. The land carriage here is almost entirety managed by mules.
+These are from 13 to 14 hands high, and surpass in figure and limb
+anything I could have imagined of the sons and daughters of asses. The
+price of these animals varies from L.10 to L.40, according to size and
+temper. They are found of all colours; but white, grey, and bay are the
+most uncommon. Our journey this day was only as far as Vienne, a pretty
+large village, or it might be called a town. We entered it at night, and
+the rain pouring down upon us. These are two very great evils in French
+travelling; for either of them puts you into the hands of the
+innkeepers, who conceive, that at night, and in such weather, you must
+have lodging speedily, at any price. At the first inn we came to, we met
+with a reception, (which, to those accustomed to the polite and grateful
+expression, with which in arriving at an English inn, you are received
+by the attentive host or hostess), was altogether singular. The landlady
+declared, with the voice and action of a virago, that at this time of
+night, the highest guests in the land should not enter her roof upon any
+terms. The landlord, on the contrary, behaved with great politeness,
+entreated not to take offence at his wife's uncommon appearance. "C'est
+seulement un tête chaud, Monsieur, mais faites moi l'honeur d'y entrer."
+We accordingly did so; and this was the signal for the commencement of a
+scene in the interior of the inn, which was probably never equalled in
+the annals of matrimonial dissension. The landlady first gave a kind of
+prefatory yell, which was only a prelude of war-whoop, introductory to
+that which was to follow. She then began to tear her hair in handfuls;
+and kept alternately brandishing knives, forks, pots, logs of wood, in
+short, whatever her hand fell upon in the course of her fury, at her
+poor passive help-mate, who appeared to consider the storm with a
+nonchalance, which evidently could only have been produced by very long
+experience; while he kept saying to us all the time, <a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a><i>"Soyez
+tranquille, Monsieur; ce n'est rien que cela."</i> At length he commenced
+getting ready our supper, and I entered into conversation with a very
+great man, the mayor of the village, who, <i>adorned with a splendid order
+at his breast</i>, was quietly bargaining for his supper. Nothing more
+completely astonishes an Englishman than this extraordinary mixture of
+all ranks of society, which takes place at the kitchen fire of a French
+inn. You will there see, not only sitting, but familiarly conversing
+together, officers and gentlemen, coachmen, waggoners, and all classes
+of people, each addressing the other as <i>Monsieur</i>. The mayor here,
+being, to all appearance, a most communicative fellow, was easily got on
+the politics of the day. I began by enumerating the blessings of peace,
+and by extolling the character of the present King, in all of which he
+seemed to join with heart and soul. He told me how Bonaparte treated the
+mayors of the different towns,&mdash;how he would raise them up at all hours
+of the night,&mdash;how he forced them to seize on grain wherever it was
+found. In short, he abused him in the vilest terms. I put in an
+observation or two in his favour, when suddenly my friend whispered
+me,&mdash;"Sir, to be frank with you, he was the greatest man ever lived, and
+the best ruler for France." I encouraged him a little, by assenting to
+all he said, and I found him a staunch friend of Napoleon, anxious for
+his return: I have no doubt, that time-serving gentlemen like these,
+would wish for nothing more. It appeared to me, that his highness, the
+mayor, was in very high spirits, either from wine, or that it was his
+nature&mdash;however, "In vino veritas."&mdash;&mdash;Distance, nineteen miles to
+Vienne.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had a miserable lodging at this vile inn, (Hotel du Parc at Vienne.)
+We left it with pleasure, this morning, (<i>Tuesday</i> the 21st), although
+the weather continued most unfavourable; yet any thing was better than
+remaining in such a house. The day continued to rain without
+intermission; and we made out with difficulty about 30 miles, to St
+Vallier. The country through which we passed to-day, is the most bare
+and barren we have seen, particularly when we approached St Vallier. The
+soil, a deep gravel, producing nothing but grapes, and a wretched scanty
+crop of wheat. The grapes, however, are here the finest for wine in
+France. It is here that the famous wines of Cotè Rotie and Hermitage are
+made. To the very summits of the hills, you see this wretched looking
+soil enclosed with stone dykes, and laid out in vineyards. We tasted
+some of the grapes here, and though out of season, we found them very
+fine; they were of a small black kind called Seeràn.</p>
+
+<p>The woman at the inn here, was sent for from the church, to see whether
+she would receive us on our terms of 18 francs, which is what we now
+always pay; having asked 20, we settled with her, and she went back to
+her devotions. We have now had three days of continued rain, which
+renders travelling very uncomfortable, and the roads most wretched. We
+still rise every morning at five, and are on the road at six. The air is
+mild, but very damp. The honey of Narbonne, got at Lyons, is the finest
+in France. I forgot to mention, that at Lyons we tried the experiment of
+going to the <i>table d'hôte</i>. We ought not, however, to form the opinion
+of a good <i>table d'hôte</i> from the one of the Hotel du Parc. It was
+mostly composed of what are here called <i>Pensionaires</i>; people who dine
+there constantly, paying a smaller sum than the common rate of three
+francs. The company was, therefore, rather low, and the table scantily
+provided; but I should think, that for gentlemen travellers, a <i>table
+d'hôte</i>, where a good one is held, would be the best manner of
+dining.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 30 miles to St Vallier.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Wednesday</i>, the 22d.&mdash;We left St Vallier at half past six in the
+morning, and only reached St Valence, a distance of 23 miles, by five
+o'clock. This delay was occasioned by the heavy fall of rain during
+these four last days, and by there being no bridge over the Isere,
+within four or five miles of Valence. The former bridge, (a most
+beautiful one, though only of wood), had been burnt down, by General
+Augereau to intercept the progress of the Austrians. The French appear
+to hate Augereau as much as Marmont; they say he was a traitor to
+Napoleon, to whom he owed every thing. The country through which we
+passed to-day, was as plain and uninteresting as yesterday's, though
+still all cultivated. Nothing but vines on the hills, and the plains
+almost bare&mdash;still gravelly. We found the Isere much swollen by the
+rain. The contrivance for carrying over the carts and carriages, is
+exceedingly simple and beautiful: Three very high trees are formed into
+a triangle, such as we raise for weighing coals. One of these is placed
+on each side of the river, and a rope passes over a groove at the top,
+and is fixed down at each side of the river; to this rope that crosses
+the river is attached a block and pulley, and to this pulley is fixed
+the rope of the boat. The stream tries by its rapidity to carry the boat
+down; the rope across prevents this; and it therefore slides across,
+with a regular though rapid motion.</p>
+
+<p>It appears to me that we are getting into a poorer country in every
+respect; for the inns are worse, the food worse, the roads worse, &amp;c.
+There seems a want of poultry as well as butcher meat. Mutton here is
+very poor. Our inn to-night is the best we have seen since we left
+Lyons; it is at the Golden Cross, outside the town of Valence, and is
+neatly kept and well served. The waiter here had served in the army for
+six years. He says, there are indeed many of the soldiers who wish for
+war; but that he really believes there are as many who wish for peace: I
+have little faith in this. We observed this morning a large party of men
+returning from the galleys, having passed the time of their
+imprisonment. They were all uniformly dressed in red flannel clothes and
+small woollen caps, and attended by gens-d'armes.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 23
+miles&mdash;to St Valence.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Thursday</i>, the 23d.&mdash;We left St Valence well enough pleased with our
+lodging at the Golden Cross. It is, however, an exception to the bad set
+of inns we have lately been at. In the kitchen here, which I entered
+from curiosity, as the ladies went up stairs to the parlour, I found, as
+usual, a most extraordinary mixture of company. I listened, without
+joining at all in the conversation. The theme of discourse was a report
+that had been circulated, that all the young troops were to hold
+themselves in readiness again to take up arms. The only foundation I
+could find for this report was, <i>that a drum had been beat for some
+reason or other that evening.</i> This was a good opportunity of attending
+to the state of the public feeling here;&mdash;all and every one seemed
+delighted at the thoughts of war, provided it was with the Austrians.
+One man (a shopkeeper to appearance), said, that his son, a trumpeter,
+when he heard the drum, leapt from his seat, and, dancing about the
+room, exclaimed, <a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>"La guerre! la guerre!" On the route this morning,
+we met with a small party of five or six soldiers returning to their
+homes; two of them had lost their right arms, and two others were lamed
+for life. They all agreed that they would never have wished for peace;
+and that even in their present miserable state they would fight. They
+were very fine stout fellows, about 40 years of age; but they had the
+looks of ruffians when narrowly examined.</p>
+
+<p>In the same inn the hostler, who had only fought one year, was as
+anxious for a continuation of peace as the others were for war. The wife
+of one of these soldiers gave a most lamentable description of the
+horrors of the last campaign, and ended by praying for a continuation of
+the peace.</p>
+
+<p>At a little village near Montelimart (our lodging place to-night), we
+were accosted in very bad English by a good-looking young Frenchman,
+who, from our appearance, knew us to be English. He told us that he had
+been four years a prisoner at Plymouth; he complained of bad treatment,
+and abused both the English and England very liberally, saying that
+France was a much finer country. Poor fellow! in a prison-ship at
+Plymouth he had formed his opinion of England. He gave us some good
+hints about the price of provisions in this part of the country. Wine
+(the vin ordinaire) is here at six sous, or three-pence the bottle. I
+had been very much astonished (on ordering some wine for the soldiers in
+the morning), to find that I had only ten sous to pay for each bottle.</p>
+
+<p>The country through which we passed to-day is rather more interesting,
+with a considerable variety of hill and dale, wood and water, but the
+soil is still a miserable gravel. Both to-day and yesterday we observed
+that the fields on each side of the road were planted with clumsy cropt
+trees, somewhat like fruit-trees. We could not make out what these were
+until to-day, when we learnt that they were mulberry trees, and that
+this was a silk country. The trees are of the size of our orchard
+trees; their branches, under the thickness of an inch, are all lopped
+off, and from the wounds thus made, spring up the tender young branches
+which produce the leaves. The trees have a most unnatural appearance
+from this cause. Under these the fields here are ploughed for a most
+wretched crop of wheat. The ploughs miserably constructed, but with
+wheels.</p>
+
+<p>This part of the country abounds with mule, which are used in carriages,
+carts, waggons, ploughs, &amp;c. These animals are of a remarkable size
+here. The roads, ever since we left Lyons, excepting where we met with a
+hundred or two hundred yards of pavement, have been uniformly bad.
+To-day, however, we made out about 33 miles between six and five
+o'clock. This town of Montelimart is celebrated for one manufacture
+only, viz. a sort of cake made of almonds and white sugar, called
+Nagaux. This article is sent from this place all over France!&mdash;----
+Distance 33 miles&mdash;to Montelimart.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> journey to-day (<i>Friday</i> the 24th) though rather more rapid, was not
+by any means comfortable. The country hereabout has a great want of
+milk and butter;&mdash;not a cow to be seen. The soil is still to appearance
+wretchedly poor, yet it gives a rich produce, in grapes, figs, olives,
+and mulberry leaves, for the silk worms. The wine (vin ordinaire) sells
+here at six sous the bottle; it is poor in quality, yet by no means
+unpalatable. The roads continue as bad as ever, rather worse indeed, for
+the thin creamy mud has become thick doughy clay.</p>
+
+<p>We did not arrive at Orange till half past five, but were fortunate in
+finding a civil reception at the Palais Royal, the first inn on entering
+the town. We met with no adventures to-day of any kind. The language of
+the people has now become completely unintelligible; it is a Patois of
+the most horrible nature. Many of the better sort of people among the
+peasants, are able to speak French with you, but where they have only
+their own dialect, you are completely at a loss. I had conceived, that
+there would be no more difference between French and Patois, than
+between the better and the lower dialects of Scotch and English; but the
+very words are here changed: A carter asked the landlord with whom we
+were conversing, for a <a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>"Peetso morcel du bosse,"&mdash;<i>"petit morceau du
+bois."</i> The landlord, a respectable-looking man, gave us a good deal of
+news regarding the state of the country. He says, that the people in the
+south are all anxious for peace, and that those in France, who wish for
+war, are those who have nothing else to live on; that nobody with a
+house over his back, and a little money, desires to have war again.</p>
+
+<p>The people here seem to amuse themselves with a perpetual variety of
+reports. The story to-day is, that Alexander has declared his intention
+of sending 60,000 men to Poland, to take possession of that country for
+himself; and that Talleyrand would not hear of such a thing. The
+villages that we passed to-day have a greater appearance of desolation
+than any we have yet seen. Scarce a house which does not seem to be
+tumbling to pieces, and those which we were unlucky enough to enter,
+were as dirty and uncomfortable inside as they appeared without. On
+entering the town, or rather at a little distance from the town of
+Orange, we saw a beautiful triumphal arch, said to have been raised to
+commemorate the victories of Marius over the Cimbri. The evening was
+too gloomy for us to observe in what state of preservation the sculpture
+is now, but the architecture is very grand. To-morrow we breakfast at
+Avignon. But alas, the weather will not permit of our visiting
+Vaucluse.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 39 miles&mdash;to Orange.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Saturday</i>, the 25th.&mdash;We left Orange at half past six. Our road to-day
+lay through the same species of country, to which we have been condemned
+for four days, producing vines, olives, and mulberries; the soil is to
+all appearance a most wretched one for corn&mdash;gravel and stones. The
+roads have, ever since our leaving Lyons, been very bad. After breakfast
+at Avignon, we proceeded to see the ruins of the church of Notre Dame.
+There are now remaining but very few vestiges of a church; the ground
+formerly enclosed by the church, is now formed into a fruit garden, and
+a country house has been built on the ruins. The owner of this house
+wishes to let it, and hearing that a friend of ours was in need of a
+house, he offered it to him for two hundred a-year. The house was such
+as one could procure near London for about L.80, and such as we ought to
+have in France for L.20. But the French do really think, that the
+English will give any sum they ask, and that every individual is a kind
+of animated bag of money.</p>
+
+<p>The owner of the house was, to appearance, a broken-down gentleman; he
+had been ordered to Marseilles by his physician for an affection of the
+lungs; yet he strongly recommended the climate of Avignon. For my own
+part, I think the situation is too low and windy to be healthy. The town
+is one of the cleanest we have seen, and there are some excellent houses
+in it; of the rent we could not well judge from the account of this
+gentleman. We went through his garden, and were by him shewn the spot
+under which the tomb of Laura is now situated. A small cypress tree had
+been planted by the owner of the garden to mark the spot. He had heard
+the story of Laura, and recollected many particulars of it; but still he
+had not been at the pains to have the spot cleared, and the tomb exposed
+to view. To any one who was acquainted with the story of Petrarch, or
+who had perused his impassioned effusions, the dilapidation of this
+church, and the barbarous concealment of Laura's tomb, were most
+mortifying circumstances. But, neither the memory of Laura, nor of the
+brave Crillon, whose tomb is also here, had any effect in averting the
+progress of the revolutionary barbarians. The tomb of Crillon is now
+only to be distinguished by the vestiges of some warlike embellishments
+in the wall opposite which it was situated. There is a large space now
+empty in the midst of these ornaments, from which a large marble slab
+had lately been taken out. On this slab, the owner of the garden said,
+an inscription, commemorating the virtues of Crillon, had been engraved.
+A small stone, with his arms very beautifully engraved, was shewn us in
+the garden. I could not leave the garden without stealing a branch from
+the cypress which shaded Laura's tomb.</p>
+
+<p>Through this garden runs the rivulet of Vaucluse. Its course is through
+the town of Avignon; where we remained for three hours, and then
+continued our journey; but the day was far advanced, and by the evening
+we only arrived at a wretched, little inn called Bonpas. We were here
+told that we could have no lodging. Luckily for us the moon was up, and
+very clear; we therefore pushed on for Orgon, which, although said in
+the post-book to be two posts and a half from Bonpas, we reached in
+about an hour and a half. On our arrival we were fortunate enough to
+find lodging; and had scarcely seated ourselves in our parlour, when the
+people told us, that last night the mail had been robbed, and both the
+postillion and conducteur killed on the spot,&mdash;&mdash;Distance 42 miles&mdash;to
+Orgon.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Sunday</i>, the 26th,&mdash;We left Orgon, as usual, at six o'clock, and
+travelled before breakfast to Font Royal, a distance of 11 miles. Here
+the unfortunate <i>conducteur</i> of the mail was lying desperately wounded;
+the surgeon, however, expected him to live. The postmaster here was not
+well satisfied with the conduct of the soldiers or gens-d'armes who
+attended the mail. The robbers were only four in number, and the
+attendants, viz. the postillion, conducteur and gens-d'armes, he
+thought, ought to have been a match for them. The robbers were
+frightened off while searching for the money, and fled without taking
+any thing of consequence.</p>
+
+<p>It is a very bad arrangement which they have in France, of sending large
+sums of money in gold and silver by the mail; for it holds out a much
+stronger inducement than would otherwise be given to the robbers. The
+mail, in France, is a very heavy coach, and has only three horses. The
+roads to-day were worse than any we have yet passed; and the country,
+for the first part of our journey, is as dull and insipid as it is
+possible to conceive. The soil most wretched, but still producing great
+riches in olives, grapes, figs, and mulberries. The grapes are
+delightful, even now when almost out of season, and the wine made from
+them is very fine. Within a mile or two of Aix, (from the top of a steep
+descent over a very barren, and bleak hill), you are delighted with the
+most complete change in the scene: In a moment, an extensive valley,
+highly cultivated, opens on the view. It is divided into a beautiful
+variety of vineyards, wheat fields, gardens, plantations of olives and
+figs, and is enclosed by hedge-rows of almond and mulberry trees. Round
+the valley rise a succession of romantic hills, covered with woods, and
+forming a fine conclusion to the view. It was altogether an enchanting
+picture. If this is the case in winter, what must it be in summer? The
+town of Aix, situated in this valley, is, as far as we have seen, the
+cleanest, neatest, and most comfortable-looking town in France&mdash;we are
+as yet all delighted with it; but when we shall have seen it for a day
+or two, I shall be better able to give an account of it.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 33
+miles&mdash;to Aix.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_a_II" id="CHAPTER_a_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">RESIDENCE AT AIX, AND JOURNEY TO BOURDEAUX.</p>
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt"><i>M</i></span><span class="smcap"><i>onday</i></span>, the 27th.&mdash;Having been employed the whole day in searching for
+furnished lodgings, I had no time to ride about and see the town. I
+shall describe it afterwards.&mdash;I saw, however, a little of the manners
+of some ranks of French society.</p>
+
+<p>After this, I went into the best coffeehouse in the town here, and sat
+down to read the newspapers. I found in it people of all
+descriptions&mdash;several of a most unprepossessing appearance, and others
+really like gentlemen. One of the best dressed of these last, decorated
+with the white cockade and other insignia, and having several rings of
+precious stones on his fingers, a watch, with a beautiful assortment of
+seals and other trinkets, was playing at Polish drafts, with an officer,
+also apparently a gentleman. I entered into conversation with him; and
+was surprised at his almost immediately offering me his watch, trinkets,
+and rings for sale. Still I thought this might arise from French
+manners: I had not a doubt he was a gentleman.&mdash;How great was my
+surprise, when a gentleman from the other side of the room called him by
+name, and bid him bring a cup of coffee and a glass of liqueur&mdash;My
+friend was one of the waiters of the coffeehouse. Such is the mixture of
+French society&mdash;such is the effect of citizenship.</p>
+
+<p>Our landlord, Mr A&mdash;&mdash;, keeps a retail shop for toys, perfumery,
+cutlery, and all manner of articles. I did not think that we had given
+him any encouragement on our first arrival; but he is now become a pest
+to us: he honours us with his company at all hours, and comes and seats
+himself with our other acquaintances, of whatever rank they may be. I
+have been forced at last to be rude to him, in never asking him to sit
+down when any one is with us. <i>The physician shakes him by the hand&mdash;so
+does the banker</i>. When I had purchased my horse, our banker spoke to a
+little mean-looking body, a paper-maker, to buy some corn and hay for
+it. I was astonished when the banker ended his speech by an
+affectionate<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> "<i>Adieu, a revoir a souper</i>." I am told, however, that
+this mixture of ranks, and this condescension on the part of superiors,
+is only practised at times, and to serve a purpose; and that, although
+the nobleman will sit down in the kitchen of an inn, and converse
+familiarly with the servants there, and though he will sit down in a
+shop, and prattle with the Bourgeoise, yet he keeps his place most
+proudly in society, inviting and receiving only his equals and
+superiors. The familiarity of all ranks with their own servants is most
+disgusting; but, from their poverty, the higher classes must condescend.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday evening, I had an interesting conversation with Mr L. B. an
+intelligent and well informed man, of good family, eminent in his
+profession, and high in the opinion of all the society here; he is a
+devoted royalist. Among other interesting anecdotes which he related, I
+can only recollect these:</p>
+
+<p>Bonaparte had got into some scrape at Toulon, where he was well known as
+a bad and troublesome character; he was arrested, and put under a guard
+commanded by a near relation of Mr L. B. Barras, then at the height of
+his power in Paris, not knowing what to do with some of his royalist
+enemies, sent for Bonaparte, and proposed to him to collect a body of
+troops, and to fire on the royalists. Jourdan, and many other officers
+were applied to, but refused so base an employment. Bonaparte willingly
+accepted it&mdash;acquitted himself to Barras's satisfaction, and Barras then
+offered him the command in Italy, provided he would marry his cast-off
+mistress, Madame Beauharnois. To this Bonaparte consented. Bonaparte's
+mother had been, about this time, turned out of the Marseilles Theatre,
+on account of her bad character; for it was well known, that she
+subsisted herself and one of her daughters on the beauty of her other
+daughter. Shortly after Bonaparte's appointment to the Italian army, the
+same magistrate (the Mayor of Marseilles), who had formerly turned out
+Madame Bonaparte, perceived her again seated in one of the front boxes;
+he went up to her, and turned her out. She immediately wrote to her son,
+and the poor mayor was dismissed. This anecdote is, I find, mentioned by
+Goldsmith, who refers, in proof of its truth, to the newspapers of the
+time, in which the conduct, and sentence of the mayor are fully
+discussed.</p>
+
+<p>Bonaparte, extremely dissipated himself, would yet often correct any
+propensities of that kind in his relations. Pauline, the Princess
+Borghese, had formed an attachment for a very handsome young Florentine;
+he was one night suddenly surprised by Bonaparte's emissaries, put into
+a carriage, and removed to a great distance, with orders not to return.</p>
+
+<p>One of Bonaparte's relations had formed an attachment to Junot, who was
+one of the handsomest men in France; Junot was immediately after sent to
+Portugal, and upon his defeats there, he was disgraced publicly by
+Bonaparte, and killed himself, it was believed, in a fit of despair.</p>
+
+<p>The Princess Borghese, though vain, fond of dress, of extravagance, and
+of pleasure of every sort, whether honest or otherwise, has yet a good
+heart. A cousin of Mr L. B.'s was ordered to join the Garde d'Honneur:
+One of the last and most cruel acts of Bonaparte, was the constitution
+of this corps, which was meant to receive the young men of noble or rich
+families. The mother and relations of this young man were inconsolable,
+and the sum of money which would have been required as a ransom, was
+more than they could give; for Bonaparte, well knowing that the better
+families would rather pay than allow of their sons serving in his guard,
+had made the price of ransom immense. In their distress, they applied to
+Mr L. B., who had been at one time of service to the Princess Borghese
+in his legal capacity, and he paid a visit to the Princess. She received
+him most kindly, but told him that Bonaparte strictly forbade her
+interfering in military matters; that she would willingly apply for the
+situation of a prefect for Mr L. B. but could be of no service to his
+relation. She was, however, at last prevailed on; she wrote most warmly
+to her friends, and in three or four days the young man was sent back to
+his happy family.</p>
+
+<p>The French here date Bonaparte's downfall from the time when he first
+determined on attacking the power of the Pope. They say that this attack
+and the Spanish War, were both contrary to the advice of Talleyrand. In
+a conversation which took place between the Emperor Alexander and
+Napoleon, Alexander represented his own power as superior to Napoleon's,
+because he had no Pope to, controul him; and Bonaparte then replied,
+that "he would shew him and the world that the Pope was nobody."</p>
+
+<p>Our conversation turned on the difference between the penal codes of
+France and England. The French code, as revised, and, in many parts,
+formed by Napoleon, is much more mild than ours. There are not more than
+twelve crimes for which the punishment is death. In England, according
+to Blackstone, there are 160 crimes punished by death; on these
+subjects, I shall afterwards write more fully when I have received more
+information. Mr L. B. related a curious anecdote, from which the
+abolition of torture is said to have been determined.</p>
+
+<p>A judge, who had long represented the folly of this method of trial,
+without any success, had recourse to the following stratagem:&mdash;He went
+into the stable at night, and having taken away two of his own horses,
+he had them removed to distance. In the morning his coachman came
+trembling to inform him of the theft. He immediately had him confined.
+He was put to the torture, and, unable to bear the agony, he said that
+he had stolen the horses. The judge immediately wrote to the King, and
+informed him, that he himself had removed the horses. The man was
+pardoned, and the judge settled a large pension on him. The subject of
+the torture was considered, and the result was its abolition.</p>
+
+<p>I found that the opinions as to some parts of their criminal
+jurisprudence in France, were the same as are entertained on the same
+subject in England. Mr L. B., who has had occasion professionally to
+attend many criminal trials, is of opinion, that in this country,
+terrible punishments ought to be avoided, or at least performed in
+private. It is generally thought, that the horror of these punishments
+deters the robber and murderer, and has a good effect on the multitude;
+but I am afraid, said Mr L. B., that the multitude compassionate the
+sufferer, and think the laws unjust: and experience shews, that
+punishments, however horrid, do not deter the <i>hardened</i> criminal. My
+father, said he, filled the situation of judge in his native city. A
+very young man, son of his baker, was convicted before the court, and
+condemned to die, for robbery with murder. After sentence, my father
+visited him, and asked him how he had been led to commit such a crime?
+Since I was a child, said the boy, I have always been a thief. When at
+school, I stole from my school-fellows,&mdash;when brought home, I stole from
+my father and mother. I have long wished to rob on the high-way; the
+fear of death did not prevent me. The worst kind of death is the rack,
+but by going to see every execution, I have learnt to laugh even at the
+rack. When young, it alarmed me, but habit has done away its terrors.</p>
+
+<p>Mr L. B. is certainly a man of gentlemanly manners, and of much general
+information. He is received at Aix in the first society of the old
+nobility; and was, I afterwards found, reckoned a model of good
+breeding, and yet, (which, in the present condition of French manners,
+is by no means uncommon), I have frequently witnessed him, in general
+company, introducing topics, and employing expressions, which, in our
+country, would not have been tolerated for a moment, but must have been
+considered an outrage to the established forms of good breeding.</p>
+
+<p>The day after our conversation with Mr L. B. we received a visit from
+the daughter of a Scotch friend, who is married to one of the first
+counsellors here. We returned home with her to hear some music. We were
+received in a very neat and very handsomely furnished house. The mother
+and daughter appeared to us polite and elegant women. But I was
+astonished to observe, seated on a sofa near them, a young man, whose
+costume, contrasted with the ease and confidence of his manners, gave me
+no small surprise. He wore an old torn great coat, a Belcher
+handkerchief about his neck, a pair of, worn-out military trowsers,
+stockings which had once been white, and shoes down in the heel. What my
+astonishment to find this shabby looking object was a brother of the
+counsellor's, and a correct model of the morning costume of the French
+noblemen!</p>
+
+<p>From Mr L. B. I learnt, that the worst land in Provence, when well
+cultivated, produces only three for one. The common produce of tolerably
+good ground, is from five to seven for one. The greatest produce known
+in Provence is ten for one. But for this, the best soils are weeded, and
+plenty of manure used. Our banker's account of the soil here is more
+favourable; but I am doubtful whether he is a farmer. Mr L. B. has a
+farm, and superintends it himself.</p>
+
+<p>I had the good fortune to attend a trial, which had excited much
+interest here. In the conscription which immediately preceded the
+downfall of Bonaparte, it appears, that the most horrid acts of violence
+and tyranny had been committed. People of all ranks, and of all ages,
+had been forced at the point of the bayonet to join the army. Near
+Marseilles, the <i>gens-d'armes</i>, in one of the villages, after exercising
+all kinds of cruelty, had collected together a number of the peasantry,
+and were leading them to be butchered. The peasants, in Provence, are
+naturally bold and free. The party contrived to escape, and all but one
+man hid themselves in the woods. This poor fellow was conducted alone;
+his hands in irons. His comrades lay in wait for the party who were
+carrying him away, and in the attempt to deliver him, three of the
+gens-d'armes were killed. The unfortunate conscript was only released to
+die of his wounds. Three of his comrades were seized, and indicted to
+stand trial for the murder of the gens-d'armes.</p>
+
+<p>I judged this a most favourable opportunity of ascertaining the public
+feeling, and attended the trial accordingly. The court was a special
+one, for this is one of the subjects which Bonaparte did not trust to a
+jury. It was composed of five civil and three military members. The
+forms of proceeding were the same as I have fully noticed in a
+subsequent chapter,&mdash;the same minute interrogations were made to the
+unhappy prisoners&mdash;the same contest took place between these and the
+Judges. One was acquitted, and the other two found guilty of "<i>meurtre
+volontaire, mais sans premeditation</i>."&mdash;Voluntary, but unpremeditated
+murder. These two were condemned to labour for life, but a respite was
+granted, and an appeal made to the King in their behalf. I was not
+disappointed in the ebullitions of public feeling which many of the
+incidents of the trial called forth. Mr L. B. and another young advocate
+pleaded very well. They both touched, though rather slightly, on the
+state of the country; but it was left to Mr Ayeau, the most celebrated
+pleader in criminal trials, and a zealous royalist, to develope the real
+condition of France, at the time of this last conscription. His speech
+was short, but I think it was the most energetic, and the most eloquent
+I ever heard. He began in an extraordinary manner, which at once shewed
+the scope of his argument, and secured him the attention of every one
+present&mdash;"Gentlemen, if that pest of society, from whom it has pleased
+God to release us, was a usurper and a tyrant, it was lawful to resist
+him. If Louis the XVIII. was our legitimate prince, it was lawful to
+fight for him." He then shewed, in a most ingenious argument, that the
+prisoners at the bar had done no more than this. Some parts of his
+speech were exceedingly beautiful. He ended by saying, that "he dared
+the Judges to condemn to death those who would have died for "<i>Louis le
+desiré</i>."&mdash;It is generally thought here, that they will all be
+pardoned.</p>
+
+<p>The situation of the town of Aix, and the scenery in the valley, is
+truly beautiful. It is now the middle of December, yet the air is even
+warmer, I think, than with us in summer. We sit with open windows, and
+when we walk, the heat of the sun is even oppressive. The flowers in the
+little gardens in the valley are in full bloom; and the other day we
+found the blue scented violet, and observed the strawberries in blossom.
+The fields are quite green, and the woods still retain their variegated
+foliage. When the mistral (a species of north-west wind, peculiar to
+this climate), blows, it is certainly cold; but since our arrival, we
+have only twice experienced this chilling interruption to the general
+beauty and serenity of our weather. The scenery in the interior of the
+hills which surround the valley, is very romantic; and the little grassy
+paths which lead through them, are so dry, that our party have had
+several delightful expeditions into the hills. Many of our French
+friends, although probably themselves no admirers of the country,
+profess themselves so fond of English society, that they insist upon
+accompanying us; and it is curious to witness the artificial French
+manners, and the noisy volubility of French, tongues introduced into
+those retired and beautiful scenes, which, in our own country, we
+associate with the simplicity and innocence of rural life.</p>
+
+<p>Amidst these peaceful and amusing occupations, the easy tenor of our
+lives gliding on from day to day, interrupted by no variety of event,
+except the entertaining differences occasioned by foreign manners and a
+foreign country; we were surprised one morning by the entrance of our
+landlord, who came into our parlour with a face full of anxiety, and
+informed us, that Napoleon had landed at Cannes from Elba, and had
+already, with five hundred men, succeeded in reaching Grace. Mr L. B.
+soon came in and confirmed the report. Although certainly considerably
+alarmed at this event, especially as the greater portion of our party
+was composed of ladies, I could not help feeling, that we were fortunate
+in having an opportunity thus offered of ascertaining the state of
+public opinion, and the true nature of the political sentiments of that
+part of the country in which we are at present residing; for we are here
+at Aix, within twenty-five miles of the small town where Napoleon has
+landed.</p>
+
+<p>I shall first detail the circumstances under which this singular event
+took place; afterwards attempt to give some idea of the effects
+produced by it on the multitude. On the 1st of March 1815, Napoleon
+landed near Cannes, in the gulf of Juan. His first step was, to dispatch
+his Aide-de-Camp, Casabianca, with another officer and 25 men, to ask
+admittance into the Fort of Antibes; admitted into the Fort, they
+demanded its surrender to Bonaparte. The Governor paraded his garrison,
+and having made them swear allegiance to their Sovereign, he secured the
+rebels. Casabianca leaped from the wall and broke his back. In the
+meantime, Napoleon, finding his first scheme fail, marched straight to
+Grace, with between 700 and 800 men. He there encamped with his small
+force on the plain before the town, and summoned the mayor to furnish
+rations for his men; to which the mayor replied; that he acknowledged no
+orders from any authority except Louis XVIII. This conduct was the more
+worthy of praise, as the poor mayor had not a soldier to support him.
+The Emperor then attempted to have printed a proclamation in writing,
+signed by him, and counter-signed by General Bertrand, in which, among
+other rhodomontades, he tells the good people of France, that he comes
+at the call of the French nation, who, he knew, could not suffer
+themselves to be ruled by the Prince Regent of England, in the person of
+Louis XVIII.&mdash;The printer refused to print it. Napoleon proceeded from
+Grace to Digne, from Digne to Sisteron, and from Sisteron to Gap, where
+he slept on the 6th of March. In all the villages, he endeavoured,
+apparently without success, to inflame the minds of the people, and
+strengthen, by recruits, his small body of troops. He has, as yet, got
+no one to join him; but, on the other hand, he has met with no
+resistance. This day, the 8th, he must meet with three thousand men,
+commanded by General Marchand. It is thought, that if these prove true
+to their allegiance, he will make good his way to Lyons; but if, on the
+contrary, they oppose him, he is ruined. The commotion excited in Aix,
+by this news, is not to be conceived. The hatred and detestation in
+which Bonaparte is held here, becomes, I think, more apparent as the
+danger is more imminent. With a very few exceptions, all ranks of people
+express these sentiments. The national guard were immediately under
+arms, and entreated their commanding officer and the civil authorities,
+to permit them to go in pursuit of the ex-Emperor. Unfortunately the
+chiefs were not well agreed on the measures which ought to be adopted.
+From the excessive <i>sang froid</i> with which Massena conducted himself, I
+should not be surprised if there were some truth in the report which was
+current here, that he had intelligence of the whole scheme, and kept
+back, in order that he might join Bonaparte. The first and second day,
+nothing was done; on the 3d, the 83d regiment was dispatched in pursuit
+from Marseilles. I accompanied them for four miles, during which, they
+had made two short halts. I had an opportunity of talking with a number
+of the men: they were certainly liberal in their abuse of the
+ex-Emperor; but several of them remarked, that it <i>was a hard thing to
+make them fight against each other</i>. The French here are all of opinion,
+that the troops of the line are not to be trusted. Like all other
+soldiers, they long for war, and as they would be more likely to have
+war Under Napoleon, than under Louis XVIII. I have little doubt they
+would join him. On the first news, the whole society of Aix were in the
+deepest affliction&mdash;the men agitated and disturbed&mdash;the women and
+children weeping. Each hour these feelings changed, for every hour there
+was some new report. The French believe every thing, and though each
+report belied the other, I saw no difference in the credit attached to
+them. There is no newspaper published in Aix, and the prefect, who is a
+person much suspected, has taken no steps to give the public correct
+information, but allows them to grope, in the dark; they have invented
+accordingly the most ridiculous stories, converting hundreds into
+thousands, and a few fishing boats and other small craft, into first a
+squadron of Neapolitans, and then a fleet of English ships. This report
+of the English ships is, I am sorry to say, still current, and the
+English are looked on with an evil eye by the lower orders. Even among
+our more liberal friends, there were some who asked me, what interest
+the English could have in letting him escape? After some cool reasoning,
+however, they acknowledged the folly of this story. The King is
+universally blamed for employing, in the most responsible situations,
+the Generals attached to Napoleon. The populace declare, that Soult, the
+Minister of War, is at the bottom of this attempt. Now, that one can
+reason on the matter, and that the impression of the magnanimity which
+dictated the conduct of the allied Powers to Napoleon, is somewhat
+diminished, it must be allowed, that there is some sense in the remark,
+that it was folly to dismiss him to Elba, with all the appointment,
+"pomp, and circumstance" of a little Sovereign, instead of confining him
+in a prison, or leaving him no head to plan mischief. The people affirm
+here, that this was done purposely by the English, to keep France in
+continual trouble.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th</i>.&mdash;All possibility of continuing this little Journal is precluded
+by the alarming progress of Napoleon, and the consequent necessity of
+taking immediate steps for our departure from this country. The
+ex-Emperor is every day making rapid strides to the capital; and we have
+to-day intelligence that it is believed the troops in Lyons are
+disaffected. I have now given up all hope, for I see plainly that every
+thing is arranged&mdash;not a blow has been struck. The soldiers have every
+where joined him, and there cannot be a doubt that he will reign in
+France. He may not, indeed, reign long; for it is to be hoped that the
+English will not shut their eyes, or be deceived by the fabricated
+reports of the journals&mdash;It is to be hoped that the allied Powers are
+better acquainted with the character of Napoleon than the too-good Louis
+XVIII. In the mean time, it is high time for us to be off; and I think
+we shall take the route of Bourdeaux. This unfortunate town (Aix), is
+now a melancholy spectacle; for all the thinking part believe that the
+cause of the Bourbons is lost. Our poor landlord, a violent royalist,
+has just been with us. He affirms that he could have predicted all this;
+for when he sold the white cockades to the military, they often said,
+<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>"Eh bien; c'est bon pour le moment, mais cela ne durera pas long
+temps."&mdash;Poor man, he is in perfect agony, and his wife weeps all day
+long. If all the people of France thought as well as those at Aix,
+Napoleon would have little chance of success; but alas, I am much afraid
+he will find more friends than enemies.</p>
+
+<p>The whole town is still in the greatest confusion. The national guard,
+amongst whom were many of our friends, were not allowed to march till
+the seventh day after the landing of Napoleon. By day-break, we were
+awoke by the music of the military bands, and saw, from the windows, the
+different companies, headed by their officers, many of whose faces were
+familiar to us, march out, seemingly in great spirits. It was a
+melancholy sight to us. There was something in our own situation; placed
+in a country already involved in civil commotion, finding our poor
+French friends, whose life seemed before this to be nothing but one
+continued scene of amusement, now weeping for the loss of their sons and
+husbands and brothers, who had marched to intercept Napoleon, and
+involved in uncomfortable uncertainty as to our future plans, which for
+some time made every thing appear gloomy and distressing. The interval
+between the 8th and the 12th has been occupied by a constant succession
+of favourable and unfavourable reports; gloomy conjectures and fearful
+forebodings, have, however, with most people here, formed the prevailing
+tone of public opinion. The report which was, a few days ago, circulated
+here, that the escape of the ex-Emperor was a premeditated plan,
+invented and executed by the English, gains ground every day. It is
+completely credited by the lower classes here; and such is the enmity
+against the English, that we are now obliged to give up our country
+walks, rather than encounter the menacing looks and insulting speeches
+of the lower orders. To-day is the 8th, and we are in a state of the
+most extreme anxiety, waiting for the arrival of a courier. In this
+unfortunate country, owing to the imperfection of the system of posts,
+public news travel very slowly; and in proportion to the scarcity of
+accurate information, is the perplexing variety of unfounded reports.
+The prefect of Aix has just been here to tell us that as yet there
+appears to be nothing decided; but that upon the whole, things look
+favourably for the Bourbons. Bonaparte, he informs us, slept at Gape on
+Sunday, and dispatched from that town three couriers with different
+proclamations. Not a man joined him, and it is said he left Gape enraged
+by the coolness of his reception. In the course of the day, another mail
+from Gape has arrived, but still brings no intelligence, which looks as
+if this unfortunate business would be speedily decided. Monsieur has
+arrived at Lyons, and intends, we hear, to proceed to Grenoble. Last
+night it was quite impossible for us to sleep. The crowds in the
+streets, and the confusion of the mob who parade all night, expecting
+the arrival of a new courier, creates a continual uproar. During the
+night, we heard our poor landlady weeping; and we found out next morning
+that her husband had been called off in the night to join the national
+guard, which had marched in pursuit of the ex-Emperor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday</i>, the 10th.&mdash;Still no decisive intelligence has arrived. Every
+thing, it is said, looks well, but there is a mystery and stillness
+about the town to-day which alarms us.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saturday</i>, the 11th.&mdash;We have this day received from Mr L. B., who
+marched with the national guard, a very interesting letter from
+Sisteron. The crisis, which will determine the result of this last
+daring adventure of the ex-Emperor, seems to be fast approaching. Our
+friend tells us all as yet looks well. Bonaparte is surrounded and
+hemmed in to the space of two leagues by troops marching from all sides.
+These, however, how strong soever they may be, appear to maintain a
+suspicious kind of inaction, and he continues his progress towards
+Grenoble. Every thing depends on the conduct of the troops there, under
+General Marchand. Their force is such, that if they continue firm, his
+project is ruined. On the contrary, if their allegiance to the Bourbons
+is but pretended, and if their attachment to their old commander should
+revive, it is to be dreaded that this impulse will have an irresistible
+effect upon the troops; and if Marchand's division joins him, all is
+irretrievably lost: He will be at the head of a force sufficient to
+enable him to dictate terms to Lyons, and the pernicious example of so
+great a body of troops will poison the allegiance of the rest of the
+army.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sunday</i>, the 12th.&mdash;Our fears have been prophetic. We have heard again
+from Mr L. B. This letter is most melancholy; Marchand's corps have
+joined the ex-Emperor, and he is on his march to Lyons, the second town
+in the kingdom, with a force every day increasing. It is absolutely
+necessary now to form some decided plan for leaving this devoted
+country. Whether it will be better to embark from Marseilles or to
+travel across the country to Bourdeaux, is the question upon which we
+have not yet sufficient information to decide. We expect to hear
+to-morrow of an engagement between the troops commanded by the Prince
+D'Artois at Lyons, and the force which has joined Napoleon. Every moment
+which we now remain in this kingdom is time foolishly thrown away.
+Bonaparte may have friends in the sea-port towns; the organization of
+this last scheme may be, and indeed every hour proves, that it has been
+deeper than we at first imagined, and the possibility of escape may in a
+moment be entirely precluded.</p>
+
+<p><i>Monday</i>, the 13th.&mdash;This has been a day of much agitation; a courier
+has arrived, and the intelligence he brings is as bad as possible. Every
+thing is lost. The Count d'Artois harangued his troops, and the answer
+they made, was a universal shout of <i>Vive l'Empereur</i>. The Prince has
+been obliged to return to Paris; Bonaparte has entered Lyons without the
+slightest opposition, and is now on his march to the capital. We have
+just been informed, that the Duc d'Angouleme is expected here this
+evening or to-morrow. The guarde nationale has been paraded upon the
+<i>Cours</i>, and a proclamation, exhorting them to continue faithful to the
+King, read aloud to the soldiers. We hear them rapturously shouting Vive
+le Roi; and they are now marching through the streets to the national
+air of Henrie Quatre. Every house has displayed the white flag from its
+windows.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday</i>, the 16th.&mdash;We have determined now to run the risk of
+travelling across the country to Bourdeaux, trusting to embark from that
+town for England. I have visited Marseilles, and find that there are no
+vessels in that port; and in the present uncertain state of Italy, it
+would be hazardous attempting to reach Nice. Bonaparte, we hear, is near
+Paris, and is expected to enter that capital without opposition; but we
+now receive no intelligence whose accuracy can be relied on, as the
+couriers have been stopt, and all regular intercourse discontinued. The
+preparations, for the arrival of the Duc d'Angouleme, continued till
+this morning; and in the evening we witnessed his entry into Aix: It was
+an affecting sight. At the gate of the town, he got out of his carriage,
+mounted on horseback, and rode twice along the Cours, followed by his
+suite. The common people, who were assembled on each side of the street,
+shouted Vive le Roi, Vivent les Bourbons, apparently with enthusiasm.
+The attention of the Duke seemed to be chiefly directed to the regiments
+of the line, which were drawn up on the Cours. As he rode along, he
+leant down and seemed to speak familiarly to the common soldiers; but
+the troops remained sullen and silent. No cries of loyalty were heard
+amongst them&mdash;not a single murmur of applause. They did not even salute
+the Duke as he past, but continued perfectly still and silent. In the
+midst of this, we could hear the sobs of the women in the crowd, and of
+the ladies, who waved their handkerchiefs from the windows. As he came
+near the balcony where we and our English friends were assembled, we
+strained our voices with repeated cries of Vive le Roi. He heard us,
+looked up, and bowed; and afterwards, with that grateful politeness, the
+characteristic of the older school of French manners, he sent one of his
+attendants to say, that he had distinguished the English, and felt
+flattered by the interest they took in his affairs. Although it was
+positively asserted by our French friends here, that Marseilles was in
+the greatest confusion; and that on account of the prevalence of the
+report of the English having favoured the escape of Bonaparte, all our
+countrymen were liable to be insulted; I yet found the town perfectly
+tranquil. Massena, I heard, had sent for some troops from Toulon; and
+the 3000 national guards employ themselves night and day, in shouting
+<i>Vive le Roi</i>. We shall leave Aix to-morrow morning, taking the route to
+Bourdeaux.</p>
+
+<p><i>Friday</i>, the 17th of April.&mdash;Our leaving Aix this morning was really
+melancholy. French friends, hearing of our approaching departure,
+flocked in to bid us farewell. They were in miserably low spirits,
+deploring the state of their unhappy country, weeping over the fate of
+their sons and husbands, who had marched with the national guard in
+pursuit of the ex-Emperor; and full of fears as to the calamities this
+might bring upon them. You are happy English, said they, and are
+returning to a loyal and secure country, and you leave us exposed to all
+the calamities of a civil war.</p>
+
+<p>After a long day's journey, we have at last arrived at Orgon, at seven
+in the evening. There has been little travelling on the road to-day. The
+country has nearly the same aspect as in November last. The only
+difference is, that the almond trees are in full blossom, and some few
+other trees, such as willows, &amp;c. in leaf; the wheat is about half a
+foot to a foot high: The day was delightfully mild; and as we drove
+along, we met numberless groups of peasants who lined the road, and were
+anxiously waiting for their Prince passing by. The road was strewed with
+lilies, and the young girls had their laps filled with flowers as we
+passed. As we past, they knew us to be English, and shouted Vive le Roi.</p>
+
+<p>We are now in Languedoc, but as yet I cannot say that it equals, or at
+all justifies Mrs Radcliffe's description: Flat and insipid plains of
+<i>vignoble</i> or wheat. However, there is here, as every where in France,
+no want of cultivation. Napoleon had commenced, and nearly finished, a
+very fine quay and buttresses between the two bridges of boats. That man
+had always grand, though seldom good views. The walls of the inn here
+were covered with a mixture of "Vive le Roi!" and "Vive Napoleon!" this
+last mostly scratched out. National guards in every town demanded our
+passport. These men and the gens-d'armes are running about in every
+direction. No courier from Paris arrived here these three days. This
+looks ill. The houses are better in appearance than in Provence. The
+country very productive: Potatoes the finest I have seen in
+France.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 34 miles.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p><i>Sunday</i>, 19th.&mdash;We left Nismes at six o'clock this morning, and
+breakfasted at Lunel, where they appear to be full of loyalty. It was a
+subject to us of much regret, that more time was not allowed us to
+examine a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, half of which is nearly
+entire, although the remaining part is quite ruinous. The troops in the
+town were drawn up on the parade, expecting the Duke d'Angouleme. We
+received a small printed paper from an officer on the road, containing
+the information last received from Paris, which secured us a good
+reception at the inn. The people were delighted to procure a piece of
+authentic intelligence, (a thing they seldom have); they flocked round
+us, and upon their entreaty, I gave them the paper to carry to the
+caffèe. In the inn we found a number of recruits for the army forming by
+the Duke d'Angouleme; it is said that he has already collected at Nismes
+nineteen hundred men, all volunteers. The country does not improve in
+romantic beauty as we advance in Languedoc; but what is better, the
+cultivation is very superior; large fields of fine wheat. There seems to
+be all over the south the same want of horned cattle; horses also are
+very scarce and very bad:&mdash;milk never to be had unless very early, and
+then in small quantity. No land wasted here. All the houses about
+Montpellier are better than near Aix, and we even saw some neat country
+seats, a circumstance almost unknown in all the parts of France where we
+have hitherto been. The olive trees are here much larger and finer than
+in Provence; but the country, although covered with olives, vines, and
+wheat, is flat, ugly, and insipid. The instruments of agriculture are
+even inferior to those in Provence, which last are at least a century
+behind England. The plough here is as rude as in Bengal, and is formed
+of a crooked branch of a tree shod with iron. As we approached near
+Montpellier, the appearance of the country began to display more
+beautiful features. The ground is more varied, the fields and meadows of
+a richer green, a distant range of hills closes in the view, and the
+olive groves are composed of larger and more luxuriant trees. Nearer to
+the town, the country is divided into small nursery gardens, which,
+although inferior to those in the environs of London, give an unusual
+richness to the landscape. We arrived at Montpellier at six o'clock, and
+from the crowd in the town, found much difficulty in procuring an hotel.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Monday</i>, 20th April.&mdash;We have better news to-day; letters from the Duke
+d'Angouleme announce that the whole conspiracy has been discovered, and
+that Soult (Ministre de Guerre) and several other generals have been
+arrested. In consequence of which, it is expected that the plans of the
+conspirators will be in a great measure defeated. The French change in a
+moment from the extreme of grief to the opposite, that of the most
+extravagant joy. To-day they are in the highest spirits;&mdash;but things
+still look very ill. No courier from Paris for these last four days. The
+ex-Emperor still marching uninterruptedly towards that city, yet no one
+can conceive that he will succeed, now that the King's eyes are
+open;&mdash;his clemency alone has occasioned all this&mdash;he would not consent
+to remove the declared friends of Napoleon.</p>
+
+<p>We passed this day at Montpellier; but were prevented by the intense
+heat of the sun from seeing as much of the environs as we could have
+wished. The town is old and the streets shabby; but the Peyroue is one
+of the most magnificent things I ever saw. It is a superb platform,
+which forms the termination of the Grand Aqueduct built by Louis XIV.
+and commands a magnificent extent of country. In front, the view is
+terminated by a long and level line of the Mediterranean. To the
+south-west the horizon is formed by the ridge of the Pyrenees; while, to
+the north, the view is closed in by the distant, yet magnificent summits
+of the Alps. Immediately below these extends, almost to the border of
+the Mediterranean, a beautiful <i>paysage</i>, spotted with innumerable
+country seats, which, seen at a distance, have the same air of neatness
+and comfort as those in England. At the end of this fine platform, is a
+Grecian temple, inclosing a basin, which receives the large body of
+water conveyed by the aqueduct, and which empties itself again into a
+wide basin with a bottom of golden-coloured sand. The limpid clearness
+of the water is beyond all description. The air, blowing over the basin
+from a plain of wheat and olives (evergreens in this climate), has a
+charming freshness. The Esplanade here is also a fine promenade,
+although the view which it commands is not so fine as that from the
+Peyroue. The manufactures of Montpellier are, verdigris, blankets and
+handkerchiefs; little trade going on. The climate is delightful, though
+now too warm for my taste. Every thing is much farther advanced here
+than at Aix. They have some very pretty gardens here, though nothing
+equal to what we see every day in England. The botanical garden is very
+small. We start to-morrow at six for Beziers, where we expect to find
+water carriage to Toulouse.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Tuesday</i>, 21st April.&mdash;We left Montpellier at five in the morning, and
+although the country round the town is certainly more beautiful than the
+greater part of Languedoc we have yet seen, it in a short time became
+very uninteresting; an extended plain, covered with uninclosed fields of
+wheat, and occasionally a plantation of olives. Before reaching Maize, a
+small town situated within a mile of the shore of the Mediterranean, we
+passed through a fine forest, the only considerable one we have seen in
+Languedoc. The road winded along the shore; the day was delightful, and
+as warm as with us in July; and the waters of the Mediterranean lay in a
+perfect calm, clear and still, and beautiful, under the light of a
+glorious sun. The general appearance of the country is certainly not
+beautiful. It improves much upon coming near Pezenas, where the fields
+are divided into green meadows, and interspersed with little gardens, in
+which, although it is now only April, the fruit trees are in full
+blossom, and giving to the view an uncommon beauty. The blossom of the
+pears, peach, and apple-trees, is, I think, richer than I ever saw in
+England. The season is not only much more advanced here than at Aix, but
+the warmth and mildness of the climate gives to the fields and flowers a
+more than common luxuriancy. Many of the meadows are thickly sown with
+the white narcissus, and the hedges, which form their inclosures, are
+covered with the deepest verdure, which is finely contrasted with the
+pink-flowers of the almond trees, rising at intervals in the hedge-rows.
+The wheat round Montpellier was now, in the middle of April, in the ear.
+We set off to-morrow at half-past five, in order to get into the <i>coches
+d'eau</i> at Beziers before 12 (the hour of starting). Hitherto we have
+proceeded without the slightest molestation. The English, I am now
+thoroughly convinced, are not popular amongst the lower orders; but as
+we are the couriers of good news, we are at present well received. Could
+it be believed by an Englishman, that we, who travel at the miserable
+rate of 30 miles a-day, <i>should be the first to spread the news wherever
+we go</i>. The reason is, that we get the authentic news through our
+friends and bankers, and circulate it in the inns, instead of the
+ridiculous stories invented by those groping in ignorance. The feelings
+of the people seem excellent every where; the troops alone maintain a
+gloomy silence. The country, from Montpellier, is the same as hitherto,
+flat and insipid: but the crops are much farther advanced than in
+Provence. We had some fine peeps at the Mediterranean this morning. The
+town of Pezenas is prettily situated, and is surrounded by numbers of
+beautiful gardens, though on a small scale. All the fruit trees are here
+in blossom: Green peas a foot and a half high. The ploughs in this part
+of the country are more antiquated than any I have seen. The ploughing
+is very shallow; but nature does all in France.&mdash;&mdash;Distance about 34
+miles.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Wednesday</i>, 22d.&mdash;Left Pezenas at half past five, and arrived to
+breakfast at half past nine at Beziers. We went to see the <i>coches
+d'eau</i>, described as <i>superbes</i> and <i>magnifiques</i> by our French friends.
+Their ideas differ from ours. It would be perfectly impossible for an
+English lady to go in such a conveyance; and few gentlemen, even if
+alone, would have the boldness to venture. The objections are: there is
+but one room for all classes of people; they start at three and four
+each morning; stop at miserable inns, and if you have heavy baggage, it
+must be shifted at the locks, which is tedious and expensive. Adieu to
+all our airy dreams of gliding through Languedoc in these <i>Cleopatrian
+vessels</i>. They are infested with an astonishing variety of smells; they
+are exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather; and they are filled
+with bugs, fleas, and all kinds of bad company. The country to-day,
+though still very flat, is much improved in beauty. Very fine large
+meadows, bordered with willows, but too regular. Bullocks as common as
+mules in the plough. Wheat far advanced, and barley, in some small
+spots, in the ear. I learnt some curious particulars, if they can be
+depended upon, concerning this conspiracy of Bonaparte from a Spanish
+officer, who had taken a place in our cabriolet. He says, that one of
+the chief means he has employed to create division in France, and to
+make himself beloved, has been by carrying on a secret correspondence
+with the Protestants, and persuading them that he will support them
+against the Catholics; and by representing the King as wishing to
+oppress them. To the army he has promised, that he will lead them again
+against the allied Powers, who have triumphantly said they have
+conquered them; this is a tender point with the French: At the present
+time, when the troops are deserting their King, and flying to the
+standard of the usurper, still even the most loyal among the people
+cannot bear the idea that the allies should assist in opposing him.</p>
+
+<p>We have continued with our coachman, and carry him on to Toulouse. He is
+an excellent fellow, has a good berlin, with large cabriolet before, and
+three of the finest mules I ever saw. He takes us at a round pace, from
+15 to 20 miles before breakfast, and the rest after it, making up always
+30 miles a-day. The pay for this equipage per mile is not much above a
+franc and a half. We have found it the most comfortable way of
+travelling for so large a party. He carries all our baggage, amounting
+to more than 400 pounds, without any additional expence. The country
+between Pezenas and Beziers, and between Beziers and Narbonne, is richer
+and more beautiful than any part of Languedoc which we have yet seen. It
+is divided into fields of wheat, which is now in the ear, divisions of
+green clover grass, meadows enclosed with rows of willows, and orchards
+scattered around the little villages. These orchards, which are now all
+in blossom, increase in number as you approach the town of Narbonne. We
+have enjoyed to-day another noble view of the distant summits of the
+Pyrenees, towering into the clouds.&mdash;&mdash;Distance, 34 miles&mdash;to Narbonne.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Thursday, 23d.</i>&mdash;We left Narbonne at half past five, and have travelled
+to-day, through a country more ugly and insipid than any in the south;
+barren hills, low swampy meadows, and dirty villages. There is a total
+want of peasants houses on the lands; but still a very general
+cultivation. Ploughs, harrows, and other instruments, a century behind.
+Fewer vines now, and more wheat. At Moux, one of the police officers
+read out a number of proclamations, sent by the prefect of the
+department, exciting the people to exertions in repelling the usurper.
+The cries of "Vive le Roi" were so faint, that the officer harangued the
+multitude on their want of proper feeling. He did not, however, gain any
+thing. One of the mob cried out, that they were not to be forced to cry
+out "Vive le Roi." Wherever we have gone, I have heard from all ranks
+that the English have supported Bonaparte, and that they are the
+instigators of the civil war. In vain I have argued, that if it were our
+policy to have war with France, why should we have restored the
+Bourbons? Why made peace? Why wasted men and money in Spain? It is all
+in vain&mdash;they are inveterately obstinate.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 39 miles.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Friday, 24th.</i>&mdash;We left Carcassone at seven, as we have but a short
+journey to-day. Arrived at Castelnaudry at half past five, and found the
+inn crowded with gentlemen volunteers for the cavalry. The volunteers
+are fine smart young men, and all well mounted. Their horses very
+superior to the cavalry horses in general. We passed a cavalry regiment
+of the line this morning, the 15th dragoons. Horses miserable little
+long-tailed Highland-like ponies, but seemingly very active. The whole
+country through which we have travelled since the commencement of our
+journey in France, is sadly deficient in cattle. We meet with none of
+these groupes of fine horses and cows, which delight us in looking over
+the country in England, in almost every field you pass. This want is
+more particularly remarkable in the south. The country to-day is the
+same; a total want of trees, and of variety of scenery of any kind. No
+peasants houses to be seen scattered over the face of the country; the
+peasantry all crowd into the villages.&mdash;Yet there is no want of
+cultivation. The situation of the lower classes is yet extremely
+comfortable. The girls are handsome, and always well drest. The men
+strong and healthy. The young women wear little caps trimmed with lace,
+and the men broad-brimmed picturesque-looking hats: both have shoes and
+stockings. The parish churches in this part of France are in a miserable
+condition. It is no longer here, as in England, that the churches and
+<i>Curès'</i> houses are distinguished by their neatness. Here, the churches
+are fallen into ruins; the windows soiled, and covered with cobwebs. The
+order of the priesthood, from what I have seen, are, I should conceive,
+little respected.&mdash;&mdash;Distance 29 miles.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Saturday</i>, the 25th.&mdash;We left Castelnaudry at five o'clock, and have
+travelled to-day through a country, which, from Castelnaudry to
+Toulouse, is uniformly flat and bare, and uninteresting. We were
+surprised to-day by meeting on the road a party of English friends, who
+had set out for Bourdeaux, returning by the same road. They informed us,
+they had heard by private letters, that Bonaparte was at the gates of
+Paris, on which account they had returned, and were determined to pass
+into Spain. They told us, that the roads were covered by parties of
+English flying in every direction; and that all the vessels at Bourdeaux
+were said to have already sailed for England. It was, however,
+impossible for us now to turn back; and we continued our route to
+Bourdeaux with very uncomfortable feelings, anxious lest every moment
+should confirm the bad news, and put a stop to our progress to the
+coast, or that, when we arrived, we should find the sea-ports under an
+embargo. Near Toulouse, are seen a few country seats, which relieve the
+eye; but the town is old and ugly, and situated, to all appearance, in a
+swampy flat. We shall see more of it to-morrow. The road from
+Castelnaudry to this is very bad, the worst we have seen yet in the
+south of France; it has been paved, but is much broken up.&mdash;&mdash;Distance
+41 miles.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Sunday</i>, 26th.&mdash;It has become necessary now to change all our plans of
+travelling. Upon visiting our banker this morning, I received from him a
+full confirmation of the bad news&mdash;Napoleon is in Paris, and again
+seated on the throne of France. Our banker has procured for us, and
+another party, forming in all 29 English, a small common country boat,
+covered over only with a sail. In this miserable conveyance we embarked
+this afternoon at two, and arrived the first night at Maste. Our passage
+down the Garonne is most rapid, and as the weather is delightful, the
+conveyance is pleasant enough; but our minds are in such a state we
+cannot enjoy any thing. To-morrow I shall continue more connectedly.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Monday</i>, the 27th.&mdash;We are now gliding down the Garonne with the utmost
+rapidity and steadiness. The scene before us presents the most perfect
+tranquillity. The weather which we now enjoy is heavenly,&mdash;the air soft
+and warm,&mdash;and the sun shedding an unclouded radiance upon the glassy
+waters of the Garonne, in whose bosom the romantic scenery through which
+we pass, is reflected in the most perfect beauty. On each side, are the
+most lovely banks covered with hanging orchards, whose trees, in full
+blossom, reach to the brink of the river. We have passed several small
+villages very beautifully situated; and where we have not met with
+these, the country is more generally scattered with the cottages of the
+peasantry, which are seen at intervals, peeping through the woods which
+cover the banks. As our boat passes, the villagers flock from their
+doors, and place themselves in groups on the rocks which overhang the
+river, or crowd into the little meadows which are interspersed between
+the orchards and the gardens. At the moment in which I now write, the
+sun is setting upon a scene so perfectly still and beautiful, that it is
+impossible to believe we are now in the devoted country, experiencing,
+at this very hour, a terrible revolution; the most disastrous political
+convulsion, perhaps, which it has ever yet undergone. In former times,
+the changes from the tranquillity it enjoyed under a monarchial
+government, to the chaos of republicanism, and from that to the sullen
+stagnation of a firm-rooted military despotism, were gradual; they were
+the work of time. But the unbounded ambition of Bonaparte, after a
+series of years, had brought on his downfall, by a natural course of
+events, and France had begun to taste and to relish the blessings of
+peace. On a sudden, that fallen Colossus is raised again, and its dark
+shadow has over-spread the brightening horizon. Could it be credited,
+that within one short month, that man whom we conceived detested in
+France, should have journeyed from one extremity of that kingdom to
+another, without meeting with the slightest resistance? I say journeyed,
+for he had but a handful of men, whom, at almost every town, he left
+behind him, and he proceeded on horseback, or in his carriage, with much
+less precaution than at any former period of his life. France has now
+nothing to hope, but from the heavy struggle that will, I trust,
+immediately take place between her and the allied powers. It will be a
+terrible, but, I trust, short struggle, if the measures are prompt: but
+if he is allowed time to levy a new conscription; if even he has
+sufficient time to collect the hordes of disbanded robbers whom his
+abdication let loose in France, he possesses the same means of
+conducting a long war that he ever possessed. The idea so current in
+France, that this event will only occasion a civil war, is unworthy of a
+moment's attention. Every inhabitant in every town he passed, was said
+to be against him. We heard of nothing but the devoted loyalty of the
+national guards; but at Grenoble, at Lyons, and at Paris, was there
+found a man to discharge his musket? No! against a small number of
+regular and veteran troops, no French militia, no volunteers will ever
+fight, or if they do, it will be but for a moment; each city will yield
+in its turn.</p>
+
+<p>The country is improving; the banks, in many places, are beautiful; for
+some days past we have been in the country of wheat, but now we are
+again arrived among the vines. Very little commerce on this river,
+although celebrated as possessing more than any one in France. It
+reminds me of the state of commerce in India,&mdash;boats gliding down
+rapidly with the stream, and toiling up in tracking. The shape, also, of
+the boats is the same. We have this moment passed a boat full of
+English, and the sailors have shouted out, that the white flag is no
+longer flying at Bourdeaux. If the town has declared for the ex-Emperor,
+I dread to think of our fate.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Tuesday</i>, the 28th.&mdash;This morning, at three, I left my party, and took
+a very light gig, determined (as the news were getting daily worse, and
+the road full of English hurrying to Bourdeaux), to post it from Agen. I
+was attended by a friend. By paying the post-boys double hires, we got
+on very fast, and although, from their advanced age and infirmities, the
+generality of French conveyances will not suffer themselves to be
+hurried beyond their ordinary pace, this was no time to make any such
+allowances. We accordingly hurried on, and after having broke down four
+times, we arrived at Bourdeaux at six in the evening, a distance of more
+than a hundred miles; and were delighted to see the white flag still
+displayed from all the public buildings. The country from Agen to
+Bourdeaux is the richest I have seen in France, chiefly laid out in
+vines, dressed with much more care than any we have yet seen; many
+fields also of fine wheat, and some meadows of grass pasture. Every
+thing is much further advanced than in Languedoc, even allowing for the
+advance in the days we have passed in travelling. Barley not only in
+the ear, but some fields even yellowing. Bourdeaux is a noble town,
+though not so fine, I think, as Marseilles. We arrived just in time: a
+few hours later, and I should have found no passage.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Wednesday</i> morning, the 29th.&mdash;I have settled for the last
+accommodations to be had, viz. a small cabin in a brig, for which I pay
+L.130. The owner, like every other owner, is full of great promises; but
+in these cases, I make it a rule to believe only one half. Bourdeaux
+shews the most determined loyalty; but, alas! there are troops of the
+line in the town, and in the fort of Blaye. Instead of sending these
+troops away, and guarding the town by the national guards, they content
+themselves with giving dinners to each other, and making the drunken
+soldiers cry, "Vive le Roi!" In England, every thing is done by a
+dinner; perhaps they are imitating the English: but dinners will not do
+in this case; decided measures must be taken, or Bourdeaux will fall, in
+spite of its loyalty, and the noise it makes. The journal published
+here, of which I have secured most of the numbers, from Napoleon's
+landing to this day, is full of enthusiastic addresses:&mdash;The general
+commanding the troops to the national guards,&mdash;the national guards to
+the troops,&mdash;the mayor to his constituents,&mdash;the constituents to the
+mayor;&mdash;all this is well, but it will do nothing. Although every thing
+is yet quiet, I am determined to hurry our departure, for I do not think
+there is a doubt of the issue. Since I entered Bourdeaux, I have always
+thought it would yield on the first attack.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thursday</i>, the 30th.&mdash;Things look very ill. The fort of Blaye has
+hoisted the tri-coloured flag. Thank heaven our vessel passed it to-day;
+we should otherwise probably have been fired upon. We go to Poillac,
+where we are to embark by land, as a party of English, who attempted to
+go by water, were stopt and made prisoners. The town of Bourdeaux is in
+a dead calm; the sounds of loyalty have ceased, and a mysterious silence
+reigns throughout the streets: I am sure all is not well. Suddenly after
+all this silence, there has been a most rapid transition to sentiments
+of the most devoted loyalty. This has been occasioned by a great
+entertainment given by the national guards to the troops of the line; so
+that I am afraid that although these regular soldiers of the regular
+army, when elated with wine, choose to be devoted loyalists, their
+political sentiments may undergo many different changes upon their
+return to sobriety. At present, the shout of Vive le Roi, from the
+different troops of the line and national guards which are patroling the
+streets, is loud and reiterated. Napoleon has sent to-day his addresses
+and declarations to Bourdeaux, but the couriers have been imprisoned,
+and the civil authorities have sworn to continue faithful to their King.
+This loyalty will be immediately put to the test, for Clausel is
+advancing to the walls. The Dutchess d'Angouleme passed through the
+streets, and visited the <i>casernes</i> of the troops: Indeed her exertions
+are incessant. To her addresses the people are enthusiastic in their
+replies, but the troops continue, as I expected, sullen and silent; they
+answered, that they would not forget their duty to her, as far as not
+injuring her. I trust that she passed our hotel this evening for the
+last time, and that she has left Bourdeaux for England. Every individual
+in this city, the troops excepted, appears to hate and detest Napoleon
+as cordially as he detests them. They expect immediate destruction if he
+takes the town. Their commerce must be ruined; yet there is no
+exertion&mdash;nothing but noise. Vive le Roi is in every heart, but they
+are overawed by the troops; it costs nothing. Subscriptions, however,
+for arming the militia, go on slowly. They seem always to keep a sharp
+eye to their pockets, although, as far as shouting and bellowing is
+required, they are willing to levy any contribution on their lungs. The
+French are indeed miserably poor, but they are also miserably
+avaricious. There is nothing even approaching to national spirit; yet
+their prudence sometimes gets the better even of their economy. One
+instance, which I witnessed to-day, will shew the way in which a
+Frenchman acts in times like these: I was in a shop when one of the
+noblesse entered, bearing a subscription paper. He addressed the
+shopkeeper, saying, that he begged for his subscription, as he knew he
+was a royalist. I never <i>subscribe</i> my name in times like these, said
+the cautious Frenchman, but I will give you some money. The gentleman
+entreated, urging, that respectable <i>subscriptions</i>, more than money,
+were wanted; but all in vain. The shopkeeper paid his ten shillings,
+saying, <i>he would always be the first to support his King</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I entered a bookseller's shop, and asked for the political writings of
+the day. The man looked me cautiously in the face, and said he had none
+of them. I happened to see one on the table, and asked him for it,
+telling him that I was an Englishman, and wished to carry them with me;
+he then bid me step in, and from hidden corners of the inner-shop, he
+produced the whole mass of pamphlets.&mdash;All this denotes that a change is
+immediately expected.</p>
+
+<p>This last night has been passed as might be expected, owing to the
+circumstances in which we were placed, in much agitation. Clausel is
+every moment advancing up the town. Every thing is in confusion. The
+troops declare they will not fire a shot. The national guards are
+wavering and undecided, and this moment (five in the morning) our
+coachman has knocked at our door to tell us that we cannot remain
+another moment safe in the town.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p><i>Friday</i>, the 31st.&mdash;We set off accordingly at sunrise, before any one
+was abroad in the street. Our coachman reported, that General Clausel
+had reached the gates, and that the national guard had been beat off. We
+have arrived, therefore, at the most critical moment, and may be
+grateful that we have escaped. The road between Bourdeaux and Poillac
+is very bad. Arrived at the inn at half way, we met with the Marquis de
+Valsuzenai, prefect of the town, who confirmed the bad news: We learnt
+from him, that at three in the morning of the 30th, the town had
+capitulated without a shot having been fired. Two men were killed by a
+mistake of the soldiers firing, upon their own officers; a miserable
+resistance! But it could not be otherwise, as no militia could long
+stand against regulars. Still I expected tumults in the streets&mdash;rising
+among the inhabitants&mdash;weeping and wailing. But no: the French are
+unlike any other nation, they have no energy, no principle. Miserable
+people! We arrived at Poillac just as it grew dark, and owing to the
+sullen insolence of our coachman, who was a complete revolutionist, and
+to his hatred for the English, which evinced itself the moment he found
+that Bourdeaux had capitulated, we found it difficult to get any thing
+like accommodation. I am happy to add, that this same fellow, meeting
+another party of English, and beginning to be insolent, an Irish
+gentleman, with that prompt and decisive justice which characterises his
+country, by one blow of his fist laid him speechless upon the pavement.</p>
+
+<p>Upon meeting the Prefect of Bourdeaux, between that town and the little
+sea-port Poillac, in disguise, and hurrying to the shore, he informed us
+that before leaving the city, he had fallen on his knees before the
+Dutchess d'Angouleme, to persuade her to embark for England, and had,
+after much entreaty, succeeded. That before setting out himself, he had
+sent her post-horses, and most anxiously expected her arrival, although
+he had doubts whether she would be permitted to leave the town. As we
+pursued our route, we passed the Chateau Margot. The Marquis, to whom it
+belonged, was watching on the road with his young daughter; and the
+moment our carriage came in sight, he rushed up in great agitation, and
+exclaiming, "Where is the Dutchess? Why does she not come. She must be
+concealed at my house to-night. There are troops stationed at a league's
+distance from this to prevent her escape." Then observing the fair
+complexion of one of the ladies of our party, he cried out, "It is the
+Dutchess, it is my beloved Princess. Oh! why have you no avant garde;
+you must not proceed." The poor old man was in a state of extreme
+agitation, and his daughter weeping. It was a few minutes before we
+could undeceive him, and his assurances that we should be stopt by the
+troops on the road, afforded us no very cheering prospect as we
+proceeded on our journey. No troops, however, appeared, and we arrived
+safely at Poillac at seven o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutchess did not appear that night; but early next morning, we were
+called to the window, by hearing a great bustle in the street. It was
+occasioned by the arrival of this unfortunate Princess. She had three or
+four carriages along with her, filled with her attendants, and was
+escorted by a party of the national guards. Their entry into Poillac
+formed a very mournful procession; she herself looked deadly pale,
+although seemingly calm and collected. We saw many of the officers of
+the national guard crowding round her with tears in their eyes. There
+was a little chapel close to where we were lodged, and while the other
+ladies went down to the frigate to prepare for the embarkation, we heard
+that the Dutchess herself had gone to mass. After we imagined that the
+service would be nearly concluded, two of the ladies of our party
+entered the chapel, and placed themselves near to where they knew she
+would pass. As she came near them, observing that they were English, and
+much affected, she held out her hand to them; one of them said, "Oh, go
+to our England, you will be cherished there." "Yes, yes," replied she,
+"I am now going to your country;" and when they expressed a wish that
+this storm would be quickly over, and that when she again returned to
+France it would be for lasting happiness. The Dutchess replied with an
+expression which was almost cheerful, "Indeed, I hope so." This was the
+last time that any of us saw her. There was then in her expression a
+look of sweet and tranquil suffering, which was irresistibly affecting.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p>We embarked, this morning, <i>Saturday</i>, the 1st, on board the William
+Sibbald, after a night of troubles. Most fortunately for me, I had not
+trusted entirely to the owner's word, and had provided three beds and
+some provisions; for the captain told us, he could not provide ship
+room, and neither mattress nor provision of any kind.&mdash;&mdash;Here we are
+then, in no very comfortable circumstances, yet thankful to escape from
+this miserable country. There are others in much greater misery than we.
+The Count de Lynch, Mayor of Bourdeaux, his brother, and another
+relation, the General commanding the national guard, and four or five
+French fugitives, have been sent on board here, by the Consul and the
+English Captain of the frigate; and they have neither clothes, nor beds,
+nor victuals: they leave their fortunes and their families behind them.
+"Alas! what a prospect," one of them exclaimed to-day; "this is the
+third fortune Bonaparte has lost to me." The unfortunate Dutchess
+d'Angouleme is now safe on board the English frigate. On leaving
+Bourdeaux, the Dutchess printed an address to the inhabitants, stating
+the reasons of her leaving them, to prevent the town from becoming a
+scene of blood and pillage. Alas! she knows not her own countrymen; they
+would not fight an hour to save her life: yet it is not because they do
+not love her&mdash;she is adored&mdash;the whole family are adored. The good among
+the nation wish for peace, but the troops are for war, and they are
+all-powerful. It is unjust to say that France ought to be allowed to
+remain under Napoleon, as she has desired his return: the army chiefly
+have desired it, and plotted it. They burn for pillage and for revenge
+on the allies, who had humbled their pride. If the allies are not
+prompt, he will again be master of his former territory. Something might
+even yet be done at Bourdeaux by an English army.</p>
+
+<p>We are now in the mouth of the English channel, and in full hopes, that
+as our stock, of water and of patience is almost exhausted, the Captain
+will put us into the first English port. May God grant us soon the sight
+of an English inn, and an English post-chaise, and in a day we shall
+forget all our troubles.</p>
+
+<p class="c top5 smcap">end of the journal.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_a_III" id="CHAPTER_a_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">STATE OP FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">T</span><span class="smcap">o</span>
+trace, with accuracy, the effects of the revolution and of the
+military despotism of Napoleon on the kingdom of France, it would be
+necessary to attend to the following subjects:&mdash;the state of
+commerce&mdash;wealth of the nation, and division of this wealth&mdash;the state
+of agriculture&mdash;the condition of the towns and villages&mdash;of the noblesse
+and their property&mdash;the condition of the lower ranks, namely, the
+merchants, tradesmen, artificers, peasants, poor, and beggars&mdash;the state
+of private and public manners&mdash;the dress of the people&mdash;their
+amusements&mdash;the state of religion and morality&mdash;of criminal delinquency
+and the administration of justice.</p>
+
+<p>But to treat all these different subjects, and to diverge into the
+necessary observations which they would naturally suggest, would form of
+itself a voluminous work. In order, however, to judge fairly of the
+state of France, and of the character of the people, we must select and
+make observations on a few of the most material points. In my Journal,
+which accompanies this, I have purposely said but little on the state of
+the people and their character, as I intended to finish my travels
+before I formed my opinion. I did not wish to be guilty of the same
+mistake with another traveller, who, coming to an inn in which he had a
+bad egg for breakfast, served by an ugly girl, immediately set down in
+his Journal, "In this country, the eggs are all bad, and the women all
+ugly." My readers are already aware of the opportunities I possessed of
+obtaining information. They are such as present themselves to almost
+every traveller in France; and they will not therefore be surprised if
+my remarks are somewhat common-place. They will recollect that our party
+disembarked at Dieppe, and travelled from one coast to the other by
+Rouen, Paris, Lyons and Aix. By travelling very slowly, never above 30
+miles a-day, I had, perhaps a better opportunity than common of seeing
+the country, and of conversing with the inhabitants; and I have been
+more than commonly fortunate in forming acquaintance with a number of
+very well informed men in the town, which we selected as the place of
+our residence in the winter: This was Aix, in Provence. I have described
+it before in my Journal, and have only to add, that the head court for
+four departments is held there; that there is a College for the study of
+Law and Divinity, and that it is remarkable for possessing a society of
+men better informed, and of more liberal education, than most other
+towns in France.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Provence have always been marked by excesses of
+affection or disaffection. They do nothing in moderation; "Les têtes
+chaudes de Provence," is an expression quite common in France. In the
+commencement of the revolution, the bands of Provençals, chiefly
+Marseillois, were the leaders in every outrage. And when the tyrant,
+Napoleon, had fallen from his power, they were among the first to cry
+"Vivent les Bourbons!" They would have torn him to pieces on his way to
+Frejus, had he not been at times disguised, and at other times well
+protected by the troops and police in the villages through which he
+passed. It will then easily be imagined that the English were received
+with open arms at Aix. They heaped on us kindnesses of every
+description, and our only difficulty was to limit our acquaintance. From
+among the most moderate and best informed of our friends at Aix, I
+attempted to collect a few traits and anecdotes of Napoleon, and with
+their assistance, I shall, in the first instance, attempt giving a
+sketch of his character. It would be tedious, as well as unnecessary, to
+detail all the circumstances of his life; for most of these are
+generally known. I shall therefore only mention such as we are not
+generally acquainted with.</p>
+
+<p class="sp"><span class="smcap">Napoleon</span> was born at Ajaccio, in Corsica, not, as is generally supposed,
+in August 1769, but in February 1768. He had a motive for thus
+falsifying even the date of his birth; he conceived that it would assist
+his ambitious views, if he could prove that he was born in a province of
+France, and it was not till 1769 that Corsica became entitled to that
+denomination. His reputed father was not a <i>huissier</i> (or bailiff) as is
+generally stated, but a <i>greffier</i> (or register of one of the courts of
+justice). His mother is a Genoese; she is a woman of very bad
+character; and it is currently reported that Napoleon was the son of
+General Paoli; and that Louis and Jerome were the sons of the Marquis de
+Marbeuf, governor of the island. The conduct of the Marquis to the
+family of Bonaparte, then in the utmost indigence, would sanction a
+belief in this account; he protected the whole family, but particularly
+the sons, and he caused Napoleon to be placed at the Military School of
+Brienne, where he supplied him with money. This money was never spent
+among his companions, but went to purchase mathematical books and
+instruments, and to assist him in erecting fortifications. The only
+times when he deigned to amuse himself with others was during the
+attacks of these fortifications, and immediately on these being
+finished, he would retire and shut himself up among his books and
+mathematical instruments. He was, when a boy, always morose, tyrannical
+and domineering. "<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a>Il motrait dans ces jeux cet esprit de domination
+qu'il a depuis manifestée sur le grand theatre du monde; et celui qui
+devoit un jour epouvanter l'Europe a commencè par etre le maitre et
+l'effroi d'une troupe d'enfans<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a>."</p>
+
+<p>He left the military college with the rank of lieutenant of artillery,
+and bearing a character which was not likely to recommend him among good
+men. He had very early displayed principles of a most daring nature. In
+a conversation with the master of the academy, some discussion having
+taken place on the subject of the difficulty of governing a great
+nation, the young Corsican remarked, "that the greatest nations were as
+easily managed as a school of boys, but that kings always studied to
+make themselves beloved, and thus worked their own ruin." The infant
+despot of France was certainly determined that no such foolish humanity
+should dictate rules to his ambition. He was once in a private company,
+where a lady making some remarks on the character of Marshal Turenne,
+declared that she would have loved him had he not burned the Palatinate.
+"And of what consequence was that, Madame," said the young Napoleon,
+"provided it assisted his plans?" We may here trace the same unfeeling
+heart that ordered the explosion of the magazine of Grenelle, which, if
+his orders had been executed, must have laid Paris in ruins. Some of my
+readers may, perhaps, not have seen an authentic statement of this most
+horrid circumstance, I shall therefore give a translation of the letter
+of Maillard Lescourt, major of artillery, taken from the Journal des
+Debats of the 7th April: "I was employed, on the evening before the
+attack of Paris, in assembling the horses necessary for the removal of
+the artillery, and was assisted in this duty by the officers of the
+'Direction Generale.' At nine at night a colonel gallopped up to the
+gate of the grating of St Dominique, where I was standing, and asked to
+speak to the Directeur d'Artillerie. On my being shewn to him, he
+immediately asked me if the powder magazine at Grenelle bad been
+evacuated? I replied that it had not, and that there was neither time
+nor horses for the purpose. Then, Sir, said he, it must be blown up. I
+turned pale, and trembled, not reflecting that there was no occasion to
+distress myself for an order which was not written, and with the bearer
+of which I was unacquainted. Do you hesitate? said the Colonel.&mdash;It
+immediately occurred to me, that the same order might be given to
+others, if I did not accept of it; I therefore calmly replied to him,
+that I should immediately set about it. Become master of this frightful
+secret, I entrusted it to no one." At Paris we met with persons of much
+respectability, who vouched for the truth of this statement.</p>
+
+<p>There can be no doubt that this order was given by Napoleon, for at this
+time the other ruling authorities had left Paris. It is by no means
+inconsistent with the character of the man; never, in any instance, has
+he been known to value the lives of men, where either ambition or
+revenge instigated him. Beauchamp, in his history of the last campaign,
+gives the following anecdote;<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> "Sire, (lui disoit un general, en le
+felicitant sur la victoire de Montmirail), quel beau jour, si nous ne
+voyions autour de nous tant de villes et de pays devastès. Tant mieux,
+replique Napoleon, cela me donne des soldats!!"</p>
+
+<p>The second capture of Rheims in that campaign was an object of little
+consequence to him, but he now determined it should suffer by fire and
+sword. From the heights he looked down on the town, then partly on fire,
+and smiling said, <a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>"Eh bien, dans une heure les dames de Rheims
+auront grand peur." His resentment against the towns that declared for
+the Bourbons was beyond all bounds; The following account of the murder
+of the unfortunate De Goualt is taken from Beauchamp's interesting
+work:<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> "On le saisit, on le conduit à l'hotel de ville, devant une
+commission militaire, qui proçede à son jugement, on plutôt à sa
+condamnation. Une heure s'etait à peine ecoulee qu'un officier survient
+se fait ouvrir les portes, et demande si la sentence est prononçee. Les
+juges vont aller aux voix, dit on. "Qu'on le fusille, sur le champ," dit
+l'officier; "l'Empereur l'ordonne." Le malhereux Goualt est condamne.
+Le deuil est génerale dans la ville. Le proprietaire de la maison,
+qu'avoit choisi Bonaparte pour y etablir son quartier, solicite une
+audience; il l'obtient. "Sire, (dit Monsieur du Chatel à Napoleon), un
+jour de triomphe doit etre un jour de clemence. Je viens de supplier
+votre Majesté d'accorder à toute la ville de Troyes la grace d'un de nos
+malheureux compatriotes qui vient d'etre condamne a mort." "Sortez," dit
+le tyran, d'un air faronche, "Vous oubliez qui vous etes chez moi." Il
+etait onze heures et cet infortune sortait de l'hotel de ville, escorte
+par des gens-d'armes, portant, attache à son dos, et à sa poitrine un
+ecriteau en gros caracteres, dans ces mots, "Traitre a la patrie,"
+qu'on lisait à la lueur des flambeaux. Le dechirant et lugubre cortege
+se dirigeait vers la place du marche destine aux executions criminelles.
+La on veut bander les yeux au condamne. Il s'y refuse, et dit d'une voix
+ferme qu'il saura mourir pour son Roi. Lui meme donne le signal de tirer
+et c'est en criant, "Vive le Roi! Vive Louis XVIII!" qu'il rend le
+dernier soupir."</p>
+
+<p>Tacitus, in describing the Corsicans, gives us three of the principal
+ingredients in the character of Napoleon, when he says, <a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a>"Ulcisci,
+prima lex est, altera, mentiri, tertia, negare Deos." To these we may
+add unlimited ambition, insatiable vanity, considerable courage at
+times, and the most dastardly cowardice at others. It must be owned,
+that this last is an extraordinary mixture; but I am inclined to
+believe, in despite of the many proofs of rash and impetuous courage,
+that Napoleon was in the main, and whenever life and existence was at
+stake, a cool and selfish coward. His rival Moreau always thought so.
+Immediately before the campaign of Dresden, in a conversation on
+Napoleon's character, this General observed, <a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>"Ce qui characterise
+cet homme, ce'st le mensonge et l'amour de la vie; Je vais l'attaquer,
+je le battrai, et je le verrai a mes pieds me demander la vie."&mdash;It
+pleased Providence that a part only of this prediction should be
+accomplished; but we have seen that Bonaparte dared not court the death
+of Moreau. Never was more decided cowardice shewn by any man than by
+Napoleon after the entry of the allies into Paris. How easily might he
+have fought his way, with a numerous band of determined followers, who,
+to the last minute, never failed him; but he preferred remaining to beg
+for his life, and to attend to the removal <i>of his wines and
+furniture</i>!! But we must proceed more regularly in developing the traits
+of this extraordinary man. A gentleman of Aix, one of whose near
+relations had the charge of Napoleon, when his character was suspected
+at Toulon, gave me the following particulars of his first employment.
+During the siege of Toulon, he had greatly distinguished himself, and
+had applied to the "Commissaires de Convention," who at that time
+possessed great power in the army, to promote him; but these men
+detesting Bonaparte's character, refused his request.&mdash;On this occasion,
+General De Gominier said to them, <a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>"Avancez cet officier; car si vous
+ne l'avancez pas, il saura bien s'avancer lui meme." The Commissaries
+could no longer refuse, and Bonaparte was appointed colonel of
+artillery. Shortly after this, having got into some scrape from his
+violent and turbulent disposition, he was put under arrest; and it was
+even proposed that he should be tried and executed (a necessary
+consequence of a trial at that period). His situation at this time was
+extremely unpromising; Robespierre and his accomplices, Daunton, St
+Juste, Barrere, &amp;c. were all either put to death or forced to conceal
+themselves. Bonaparte now perceived, that for the accomplishment of his
+views, it was necessary that he should forsake his haughty and
+domineering tone, and flatter those in power. He immediately commenced a
+series of intrigues, and by the assistance of his friends at Paris, and
+that good fortune which has always befriended him, he soon found an
+opportunity of extricating himself from the danger which surrounded him.
+Barras, who was then at the head of the administration, under the title
+of Directeur, alarmed by the distracted state of Paris, and dreading the
+return of the Bourbons, assembled a council of his friends and
+associates in crime; it was then determined that an attack should
+immediately be made on the Parisian royalists, or, as the gentleman who
+gave me this account expressed it, <a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>"Dissiper les royalistes, et
+foudroyer les Parisiens jusque dans leurs foyers."</p>
+
+<p>But where were they to find a Frenchman who would take upon him the
+execution of so barbarous an order? One of the meeting mentioned
+Bonaparte, and his well-known character determined the directors in
+their choice. He was ordered to Paris, and the hand of Madame
+Beauharnois, and the command of the army of Italy, held out to him as
+the reward of his services, provided he succeeded in <i>dissipating</i> the
+royalists. It is well known that he did succeed to his utmost wish; the
+streets of Paris were strewed with dead bodies, and the power of the
+Directory was proclaimed by peals of artillery.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after this, Bonaparte commenced that campaign in Italy, in which
+he so highly signalised himself as a great general and a brave soldier.
+It is the general opinion of the French that this was the only campaign
+in which Napoleon shewed personal courage; others allege, that he
+continued to display the greatest bravery till the siege of Acre. To
+reconcile the different opinions with respect to the character of
+Napoleon in this point, is a matter of much difficulty. After having
+heard the subject repeatedly discussed by officers who had accompanied
+him in many of his campaigns; after having read all the pamphlets of the
+day, I am inclined to think that the character given of him in that
+work, perhaps erroneously believed to be written by his valet, is the
+most just. This book certainly contains much exaggeration, but it is by
+no means considered, by the French whom I have met, as a forgery. The
+author must, from his style, be a man of some education; and he asserts
+that he was with him in all his battles, from the battle of Marengo to
+the campaign of Paris. He declares, that Napoleon was <i>courageous only
+in success, brave only when victorious</i>; that the slightest reverse made
+him a coward. His conduct in Egypt, in abandoning his army, his
+barbarous and unfeeling flight from Moscow, and his last scene at
+Fontainbleau, are sufficient proofs of this.</p>
+
+<p>The battle of Marengo is generally instanced as the one in which
+Napoleon shewed the greatest personal courage; but this statement
+neither agrees with the account given in the above work, nor by Monsieur
+Gaillais. From the work of the last mentioned gentleman, entitled
+"Histoire de Dix huit Brumaire," I shall extract a few lines on the
+subject of this battle.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> "A la pointe du jour les Autrichiens
+commencerent l'attaque, dabord assez lentement, plus vivement ensuite,
+et enfin avec une telle furie que les Français furent enfoncès de tous
+cotès. Dans ce moment affreux ou les morts et les mourants jonchaiènt la
+terre, le premier Consul, placè au milieu de sa garde, semblait
+immuable, insensible, et comme frappè de la foudre. Vainement les
+generaux lui depechaient coup sur coup leurs Aides de Camp, pour
+demander des secours; vainement les Aides de Camp attendaient les
+ordres; il n'endonnait aucune; il donnait a peine signe de la vie.
+Plusieurs penserent que croyant la battaille perdue, il voulut se faire
+tuer. D'autres, avec plus de raison, se persuaderent qu'il avoit perdu
+la tête, et qu'il ne voyait et n'entendait plus rien de se qui se disoit
+et de ce qui se passait autour de lui. Le General Berthier vint le prier
+instamment de se retirer; au lieu de lui repondre il se coucha par
+terre. Cependant les Français fuyerent a toutes jambes, la bataille
+etoit perdue lorsque tout a coup on entendait dire que le General
+Dessaix arrive avec une division de troupes fraiches. Bientot apres on
+le voit paroitre lui meme a leur tête; les fuyards se ralliaient
+derrierè ses colonnes&mdash;leur courage est revenuè&mdash;la chance tourne&mdash;les
+Français attaquent a leur tour avec la meme furie qu'ils avoient etê
+attaquè&mdash;et brulent d'effacer la honte de leur defaite du matin."</p>
+
+<p>Desaix fell in this battle, and the whole glory of it was given to
+Napoleon. The last words of this gallant man were these: <a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a>"Je meurs
+avec le regret de n'avoir pas assez vecu pour ma patrie.".</p>
+
+<p>This account of Napoleon's behaviour at Marengo was confirmed to me at
+Aix, by two French officers of rank who had been present at the battle.</p>
+
+<p>I do not mean to give a life of Napoleon; ere a year is past, I have not
+a doubt that we shall have but too many; indeed, already they are not
+wanting in England. I mean only to give such anecdotes as are not so
+generally known, and to attempt an explanation of the two most
+interesting circumstances in his career, viz. the means he has employed
+in his aggrandisement, and the causes of his downfall. It is only when
+we survey the extent of his power, without reflecting on the gradual
+steps which led to it, that we are astonished and confounded; for, in
+reality, when his means are considered, and the state of France at the
+time is placed before our eyes, much of the difficulty vanishes; and we
+perceive, that any daring character, making use of the same means, might
+have arrived at the same end. It is foolish to deny him (as many of his
+biographers do), great military talent, for that he certainly possessed,
+as long as his good fortune allowed him to display it. This talent he
+not only evinced in the formation of his plans, but in the execution
+also. No man knew better the means of calling forth the inexhaustible
+military resources of France. The people of that country were always
+brave; but Bonaparte alone knew how to make them all soldiers. The
+desire of glory has ever characterized the nation, and the state of
+tyranny and oppression in which they were kept under his government, had
+no effect in diminishing this passion. The French people under Napoleon
+furnish a striking exception to the maxim of Montesquieu, when he says,
+<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a>"On peut poser pour maxime, que dans chaque etat le desir de la
+gloire existe avec la liberté de sujets, et diminue avec elle; la gloire
+n'est jamais compagne de la servitude."</p>
+
+<p>The French forget their misfortunes almost immediately. After the
+campaign of Moscow, one would have thought that the hardships they
+endured might have given them a sufficient disgust, and that it was
+likely they would forsake one who shewed so little feeling for them. I
+happened once to meet with several of the poor wretches who had been
+with him; they were then on their road home; most of them were entirely
+disabled; one had his toes frozen off&mdash;they declared that they <i>would
+again fight under him if they were able</i>. At one of the inns, I met with
+a young officer who had also been with him at Moscow: I happened to
+enquire how they could bear the cold? "We were as comfortable," said he,
+"as you and I are at this fire-side." The poor fellow was not twenty-one
+years old. <a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>"La jeunesse d'aujour-d'hui est elevee dans d'autres
+principes; l'amour de la gloire sur tout a jetè des profondes racines;
+il est devenu l'attribut le plus distinctif du caractere national,
+exaltè par vingt ans de succes continues. Mais cette gloire meme etoit
+devenue notre idole, elle absorboit toutes les pensees des braves mis
+hors-de-combat par leurs blessures, toutes les esperances des jeunes
+gens qui faisaient leur premieres armes. Un coup imprevu l'a frappè,
+nous trouvons dans nos c&#339;urs une vide semblable a celui qui trouve un
+amant qui a perdu l'objet de sa passion; tout se qu'il voit, tout ce
+qu'il entende renouvelle sa douleur. Ce sentiment rend notre situation
+vague et penible; chacun cherche a se dissimuler la place qu'il sente
+exister au fond de son c&#339;ur. On le regarde comme humilie, apres vingt
+ans des triomphes continues, pour avoir perdu une seule partie
+malhereusement etait la partie d'honneur; et qui a fait la regle de nos
+destinees."&mdash;Such is the language of the military.</p>
+
+<p>In conversation one evening with one of the noblesse, who had suffered
+in the revolution, he told me that this military spirit extended not
+only to all ranks and professions, but to all ages. He said that the
+young men in the schools refused to learn any thing but mathematics and
+the science of arms; and that he recollected many instances of boys ten
+and twelve years of age, daily entreating their fathers and mothers to
+permit them to join Napoleon. It was in vain to represent to them the
+hardships they must suffer; their constant reply was, "If we die, we
+will at least find glory." Read the campaign of Moscow, said another
+gentleman to me, you will there see the French character:<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> "Les
+François sont les seuls dans l'univers qui pourroient rire meme en
+gelant."</p>
+
+<p>Napoleon certainly greatly encreased the military spirit of the people:
+Before his time, you heard of commerce, of agriculture, of manufactures,
+as furnishing the support of the community; under him, you heard of
+nothing but war. The rapid destruction of the population of France
+occasioned constant promotion, and the army became the most promising
+profession. It was a profession in which no education was wanting&mdash;to
+which all had access. Bonaparte never allowed merit to go unrewarded.
+The institution of the Legion of Honour alone was an instrument in his
+hands of sufficient power to call forth the energy of a brave people; to
+this rank even the private soldier might arrive. In this organization
+of the army, therefore, we may trace his first means of success.</p>
+
+<p>The next was his military <i>tactique</i>:&mdash;The great and simple principle on
+which this was founded, is evident in every one of the pitched battles
+which he gained;&mdash;he out-numbered his opponents,&mdash;he sacrificed a
+troop,&mdash;a battalion,&mdash;a division,&mdash;or a whole army without bestowing a
+moment's thought. Bonaparte has sometimes, though very seldom, shewn
+that his heart could be touched, but never, on any occasion, did the
+miserable display of carnage in the field of battle call forth these
+feelings; never was he known to pity his soldiers. On seeing a body of
+fresh recruits join the army, his favourite expression was always,
+<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a>"Eh bien, voyez encore de matiere premiere, du chair a cannon."
+After a battle, when he rode over the ground, he would smile, and say,
+<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a>"Ma foi, voyez une grande consommation." The day after the battle of
+Prusse-Eylau, his valet thus describes his visit to the field of blood:
+<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a>"Il faisoit un froid glacial, des mourants respiroient encore; la
+foule des cadavres et les cavitès noiratres qui le sang des hommes avoit
+laisse dans la neigè faisoit un affreux contraste. L'etat Major etoit
+peniblement affectè. L'Empereur seul contemplait froidement cette scene
+de deuil et de sang. Je poussai mon cheval quelques pas devant le sien;
+j'etois eurieux de l'observer dans un pareil moment. Vous eussiez dit
+qu'il etoit alors detachè de toutes les affections humaines, que tout ce
+qui l'environnait n'existoit pour lui. Il parloit tranquillement des
+evenemens de la veille. En passant devant une groupe des grenadiers
+Russes massacrès, le cheval d'un Aide-de-Camp avoit peur. Le Prince
+l'appercevait: "Ce cheval, lui dit il, froidement, est un lache."</p>
+
+<p>It cannot be doubted that such a man would sacrifice regiment after
+regiment to obtain his purpose; we may indeed wonder, that when known to
+possess such a heart, he was obeyed by his men: But a little thought, a
+little reflection on the means he took to ingratiate himself with his
+troops will remove this difficulty. Look also at his dispatches, his
+proclamations, and orders; they appear the effusion of the father of a
+family addressing his children: "Their country required the sacrifices,
+which he deplored." All thought is at an end when they are thus attacked
+on their weak side. At other times, the hope of plunder was held out to
+them. The words, <i>glory, honour, their country, laurels, immortal
+fame</i>&mdash;these words, fascinating to the ear of any people, are more
+peculiarly so to the French. When conversing with an old French officer,
+who had served under the Prince of Condè in the emigrant army, on this
+subject, he made this remark: "Sir, you do not know the French;
+assemble them together, and having pronounced the words <i>glory, honour
+and your country</i>, point to the moon, and you will have an army ready to
+undertake the enterprise." Napoleon was well aware of this weakness of
+the French. He would ride through the ranks on the eve of a battle,
+would recall their former victories to one body; make promises to a
+second; joke with a third,&mdash;cold, distant, and forbidding at all other
+times, he is described as affable in the extreme on all such occasions.
+The meanest soldier might then address him.</p>
+
+<p>The rapid military promotion may be given as another cause of Napoleon's
+success. The most distinguished corps were, of course, the greatest
+sufferers; and the young man who joined the army, as a lieutenant, on
+the eve of an action, was a captain the next day, perhaps a colonel
+before he had seen a year's service. <a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a>"Des ouvriers sortis de leurs
+atteliers (says Monsieur Gaillais in his "Histoire de Dix Huit
+Brumaire,") des paysans echappes de villages, avec un bonnet sur la tête
+et un baton a la main, devenaient au bout de six mois des soldats
+intrepides, et au bout de deux ans des officiers agueris, et des
+generaux redoubtables au plus anciens generaux de l'Europe." Nothing
+struck me more forcibly than the youth of the French officers. The
+generals only are veterans, for Bonaparte well knew, that experience is
+as necessary as courage in a General.</p>
+
+<p>Next, we may direct our attention to the means which this despot
+possessed, by filling the war department with his own creatures; by
+giving liberal salaries and unlimited power to the prefects of the
+different departments, he amassed both troops and pay to support them.
+The tyrannic measures for levying these became at last insupportable;
+the people were rising in the villages, and by force of arms rescuing
+their companions; and it is very probable that he might have found,
+latterly, a want of men; but for years he has had at his disposal three
+hundred thousand men annually. In describing the effects of the
+conscription, one of the members of the Senate made use of the
+following expression:&mdash;<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a>"On moissonne les homines trois fois
+l'anneé."</p>
+
+<p>With such supplies, what single power could resist him? War with him
+became a mere mechanical calculation. Among the causes of his elevation,
+the use he made of the other continental Powers must not be forgotten;
+whether gained by corruption, treachery, or force, they all became his
+allies; they were all compelled to assist him with troops. When the
+Sovereigns of these countries consented to his plans, they were
+permitted to govern their own kingdoms, otherwise the needy family of
+Bonaparte supplied the <i>roitelets</i> at a moment's warning. These little
+monarchs, he is said to have treated with the utmost contempt.</p>
+
+<p>My readers may perhaps be inclined to smile, when I mention among the
+causes of Napoleon's elevation, the use made by him of ballad-singers,
+newsmongers, pedlars, &amp;c. But really, on a deliberate view of his system
+of juggling and deception, I am inclined to believe, that it was one of
+his most powerful engines. The people of France are not only the most
+vain, but the most credulous in the world. To work on their feelings,
+he kept in constant pay author of every description, from the man who
+composed the Vaudeville, which was sold for half a sous, to the authors
+of the many clever political pamphlets which daily appear in France: for
+the dissemination of these, he had agents, not only in France, but in
+distant countries. When he aimed at the subjugation of any part of the
+continent, his first endeavour was always to disseminate seditious and
+inflammatory pamphlets against its Government. It is never doubted in
+France, that even in <i>England</i>, he had his emissaries.</p>
+
+<p>Editors of newspapers, in every part of the globe, were in his pay. The
+method in which the newspaper, called the Argus, was published, is an
+extraordinary proof of this fact. The Argus, whose principal object was
+to abuse the English, was first of all written in French, by one of the
+"Commissaires de Police;" it was then translated into English, and a few
+copies were circulated in this language, to keep up the idea, that it
+was smuggled over from England; after these found their way, the French
+copy, or in other words, the original, was widely circulated. A more
+infamous trick can scarce be conceived. Extracts from this paper were,
+by express order of Napoleon, published in every French paper. Nothing
+was considered by him as beneath his notice. He encouraged dancing,
+feasting, gaming. The theatres, concerts, public gardens, were under his
+protection. The traiteurs, the keepers of caffès, of brothels, of
+ale-houses, the limonadiers, and the wine-merchants, were his particular
+favourites. His object in this was, to produce a degree of profligacy in
+the public manners, and a disgust at industry; and the consequence was,
+the resort of all ranks to the army, as the easiest and most lucrative
+profession.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the many other causes which will suggest themselves to my
+readers in reading a history of his campaigns, I shall say nothing; for
+on all of these, as well as on the causes of his downfall, which I shall
+merely enumerate, I leave them to make their own observations. I have
+already been very tedious, and have yet much to observe on different
+points of his character.</p>
+
+<p>To the last rigorous measures for the conscription, to the institution
+of the "Droits Reunis;" to the formation of the garde d'honneur; and to
+his attack on the religion of France, Bonaparte owed his first
+unpopularity. The hatred of the French is as impetuous as their
+admiration. They exclaimed against every measure when they were once
+exasperated against him: still he had many friends; still he possessed
+an army which kept the nation in awe. This army he chose to sacrifice in
+Spain and Russia. The nation could no longer supply him, and the strong
+coalition which took place against him, was not to be repelled by a
+broken-down army. His military talent seemed latterly to have forsaken
+him, and never was the expulsion of a tyrant so easily accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>His excessive vanity never left him&mdash;of this, the Moniteur for the last
+ten years is a sufficient proof; but in reading the accounts of him, I
+was particularly struck with the instances which follow.</p>
+
+<p>Anxious to impress on the minds of the Directors, the necessity of the
+expedition to Egypt, he made a speech, in which the meanest flattery was
+judiciously mingled with his usual vanity. <a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a>"Ce n'est que sous un
+gouvernement aussi sage aussi grand que le votre, qu'un simple soldat
+tel que moi pouvait conçevoir le projet de porter la guerre en
+Egypte.&mdash;Oui, Directeurs, à peine serais je maitre d'Egypte, et des
+solitudes de la Palestine, que l'Angleterre vous donnera un vaisseau de
+premier bord pour un sac de bled."</p>
+
+<p>Some days before his celebrated appearance among the "Cinq Cents," his
+friends advised him to repair thither well armed, and attended with
+troops. <a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a>"Si je me presente avec des troupes (disait Napoleon), c'est
+pour complaire à mes amis, car en verité j'ai la plus grande envie d'y
+paraitre comme fit jadis Louis XIV. au Parlement, en bottes, et un fouet
+à la main."</p>
+
+<p>In his speech to the Corps Legislatif, on the 1st of January 1814, he
+made use of the following words at the close of an oration, composed of
+the same unmeaning phrases, strung together in fifty different shapes.
+<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>"Je suis de ces homines qu'on tue, mais qu'on ne dishonore pas.
+Dans trois mois nous aurons la paix, ou l'enemi sera chasse de notre
+territoire&mdash;ou, je serai mort."</p>
+
+<p>A further specimen of Napoleon's style, will, I think, amuse my readers;
+I shall, therefore, copy out an extract of his speech to the Legislative
+Body: <a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>"Je vous ai appellè autour de moi pour faire le bien, vous
+avez fait le mal, vous avez entre vous des gens devouès à l'Angleterre,
+qui correspondent avec le Prince Regent par l'entremise de l'avocat
+Deseze. Les onze-douziemes parmi vous sont bons; les autres sont des
+factieux. Retournez dans vos departments;&mdash;je vous y suivrai de l'&#339;il.
+Je suis un homme qu'on peut tuer, mais qu'on nè saurait deshonnorer.
+Quel est celui d'entre vous qui pouvait supporter le fardeau du
+pouvoir; il a ecrasè l'Assemble Constituante, qui dicta des loix à un
+monarque faible. Le Fauxbourg St Antoine nous aurait secondé, mais il
+vous est bientot abandonnè. Que sont devenus les Jacobins, les
+Girondins, les Vergniaux, les Guadets, et tant d'autres? Ils sont morts.
+Vous avez cherché à me barbouiller aux gens de la France. C'est un
+attentat;&mdash;qu'est que le trone, au reste? Quatre morçeaux de bois dorè
+recouverts de velours. Je vous avais indiqué un Commité Secret; c'etait
+là qu'il fallait laver notre linge. J'ai un titre, vous n'en avez point.
+Qui etes vous dans la Constitution? Vous n'avez point d'autorite. C'est
+le Trone qui est la Constitution. Tout est dans le trone et dans moi.
+Je vous le repete, vous avez parmi vous des factieux. Monsieur Laisnè
+est un mechant homme; les autres sont des factieux. Je les connais, et
+je les poursuivrai. Je vous le demande, Etait ce cependant que les
+ennemies sont chez nous qu'il fallait faire de pareilles choses? La
+nature m'a doué d'un courage fort; il peut resister à tout. Il en a
+beaucoup coutè a mon orgueil, je l'ai sacrifiè. Je suis au dessus de vos
+miserables declamations. J'avais demandé des consolations et vous m'avez
+dishonoré. Mais non; mes victoires ecrasent vos criailleries. Je suis de
+ceux qui triomphent ou qui meurent. Retournez dans vos departments."</p>
+
+<p>The vanity of Napoleon led him to suppose that he was fitted to lay
+down the law to the most eminent among the French philosophers; that he
+could improve the French language, the theatre, the state of society,
+the public seminaries, the weights and measures of the realm. He
+meddled, in short, with every thing. Under the walls of Moscow, he
+composed a proclamation in the morning, declaring that he would soon
+dictate a code of laws to the Russians; and, in the evening, he dictated
+a code of regulations for the theatres of Paris. His ardent wish was, to
+have it thought that he had time and capacity for every thing. It arose
+from this, that he trusted to no one, and having himself every thing to
+do, that he did nothing well. If he went to visit a college, he prepared
+Latin and Greek sentences for the occasion; in many of his speeches he
+introduced scrapes of classic lore. His love of Greek terms is admirably
+described in a little epigram, made on his new <i>tarif</i> of weights and
+measures, in which the <i>grams</i> and <i>killograms</i>, and <i>metres</i> and
+<i>killometres</i> are introduced.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Les Grecs pour nous ont tant d'attraits</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qui pour se faire bien entendre,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et pour comprendre le Français</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ce'st le Greque qu'il faut apprendre.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>He was particularly anxious that his police should be perfect. He
+pursued, for the accomplishment of his views, the same plan so
+successfully employed under the celebrated Sartine. He had spies in
+every private family, and every rank and denomination. These he did not
+employ as Sartine did, for the detection of thieves and robbers; with
+him, the dreadful machine of espionage was organised, in order that he
+might always know the state of public feeling; that knowing also the
+character of each individual, he might be the better able to select
+instruments fit for his purposes. Fouche had brought this system to the
+utmost perfection. Bonaparte distrusted him, and demanded proofs of his
+activity. Fouche desired him to appoint a day, on which he should give
+him a full account of every action performed by him. The day was
+appointed, the utmost precaution was used by the Emperor; but the spies
+gave an account of his every action from six in the morning till eight
+at night. They refused to inform Fouche what had become of Bonaparte
+after eight; but said, that if the Emperor desired it, they would inform
+him in person. The Emperor did not press the subject farther, but
+confessed <i>that he had not spent the remainder of the evening in the
+best of company</i>. Ever after this he was satisfied with the state of
+the police. To give some idea of the activity of this system, I may
+mention a curious anecdote, which I received from our banker: One of the
+most respectable bankers in Paris, whose name I have forgot, was sitting
+at supper with his chief <i>commis</i> or clerk. They were served by one
+faithful old servant, who, during 30 years, had been tried, and had
+always been found worthy of confidence. The conversation turned on the
+subject of the last campaign&mdash;this was before the campaign of Paris. The
+<i>commis</i> happened to remark, that he thought Bonaparte's career was
+nearly finished, and that he would meet his fate presently. The next
+morning the banker received a letter from the Police Department,
+instructing him to order the departure of his <i>commis</i> from Paris within
+24 hours, and from France within a month.</p>
+
+<p>The same gentleman gave me a genuine edition of the celebrated story of
+Sartine's stopping the travellers at the gates of Paris. It may amuse my
+readers, although, I dare say, they have seen it before in other shapes.</p>
+
+<p>A very rich lace merchant from Brussels, was in the habit of constantly
+frequenting the fair of St Denis. On these occasions, he repaired to
+Paris in the public diligence, accompanied by his trunks of lace. He
+had apartments at an hotel in the Rue des Victoires, which he had for
+many years occupied; and to secure which, he used always to write some
+weeks before. An illness had prevented his visiting the fair during two
+years; on the third, he wrote as usual to his landlord, and received an
+answer, that the death of the landlord had occasioned a change in the
+firm and tenants of the house; but that he was well known to them, and
+that they would keep for him his former rooms, and would do their utmost
+to give him satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>The merchant set out&mdash;arrived at the barrier of Paris; the diligence was
+stopped, and a gentleman whom he had never seen before, accosted him by
+name, and desired him to alight. The merchant was a good deal surprised
+at this; but you may judge of his alarm, when he heard an order given to
+the <i>conducteur</i> to unloose numbers one, two, three&mdash;the trunks, in
+which was contained his whole fortune. The gentleman desired he would
+not be afraid, but trust every thing to him. The diligence was ordered
+away, and the lace merchant, in a state of agony, was conveyed by his
+new acquaintance to the house of Monsieur de Sartine. He there began an
+enumeration of his grievances, but was civilly interrupted by M. de
+Sartine&mdash;"Sir, you have not much reason to complain; but for your visit
+to me here, you would have been murdered this night at twelve." The
+minister then detailed to him the plan that had been laid for his
+murder, and astonished him by shewing a copy, not only of the letter
+which he had written to the landlord of the hotel, but also the answer
+returned by the landlord. Monsieur de Sartine then begged that he would
+place the most implicit confidence in him, and remain in his house until
+he should recover himself from his fright. He would then return to the
+coach in waiting, and would be attended to the hotel by one of his
+emissaries as valet. The merchant told him that the people of the house
+would not be deceived by a stranger, for they were well acquainted with
+all his concerns, and even with his writing. "Examine your attendant,"
+said M. de Sartine; "you will find him well instructed, and he speaks
+your dialect as you do yourself." A few questions convinced the merchant
+that the minister had made a good selection. M. de Sartine then
+described the reception he would meet with, the rooms he was to occupy,
+the persons he should see, and laid down directions for his conduct;
+telling him, at the same time, that if at a loss, he should consult his
+attendant. On his arrival at the inn, every thing shewed the wonderful
+correctness of the information. His reception was kind as ever. Dinner
+was served up; and the merchant, according to his practice, engaged
+himself till a late hour in his usual occupations. The valet played his
+part to a miracle, and saw his master to bed, after repeating to him the
+instructions of Monsieur de Sartine. The merchant, as may well be
+supposed, did not sleep much. At twelve, a trap door in the floor opened
+gently, and a man ascended into the apartment, having a dark lanthorn in
+one hand, and in the other, some small rings of iron, used for gagging
+people to prevent their speaking. He had just ascended, when the valet
+knocked him down and secured him; the room was immediately filled with
+the officers of the police. The house had been surrounded to prevent
+escape; and in a cellar under the room where the merchant had slept, and
+which communicated with the trap door, were found the master, mistress,
+and all the members of the gang&mdash;they were all secured.</p>
+
+<p>Let us proceed with the character of Napoleon. All the world is well
+acquainted with his vices; it is less probable that they have ever heard
+of his virtues, of his having shown that he felt as a man. The
+following instance is authentic:</p>
+
+<p>After the capture of Berlin, the command of the city was given to one of
+the Prussian generals, who had sworn fidelity to Bonaparte. This officer
+betrayed his trust, and communicated to the King of Prussia all the
+information which he obtained of the motions of the French army.
+Bonaparte obtained sufficient proof of his crime, by intercepted
+letters. The officer was arrested, a military trial was ordered, and
+sentence of death pronounced. The wife of the officer threw herself at
+the feet of Bonaparte, and implored the life of her husband. He was
+touched, and drawing out from his pocket the letters which proved the
+crime, he tore them to pieces, saying, that in thus destroying the
+proofs of his guilt, he deprived himself of the power of afterwards
+punishing it. The officer was immediately released.</p>
+
+<p>If Napoleon did not possess feeling, or even common humanity, he was at
+least anxious that the people of France should believe that he had these
+good qualities. It is said that, on the evening before he left Paris on
+his last campaign, he sent for the tragedian Talma, and had taught to
+him the action, features and aspect which he the next day employed when
+he left his wife and child to the care of the national guard. The
+following scene will at once show his desire to be esteemed generous,
+and his utter meanness of character:&mdash;<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>"Un de ses Ministres l'aborde
+un jour et lui presente un rapport qu'il avait desiré; il s'agissait
+d'une conspiration contre sa personne. J'etais present à cette scene. Je
+m'attendais, je l'avoue, à le voir entrer en fureur, fulminer contre les
+traitres, menacer les magistrats, et les accuser de negligence. Point du
+tout; il parcourt le papier sans donner le moindre signe d'agitation.
+Jugez de ma surprise, ou plutôt quelle douce emotion j'eprouvais quand
+il fit entendre ces paroles touchantes et sublimes:&mdash;"Monsieur le Comte,
+l'etat n'a point souffert; les magistrats n'ont point etè insultés; ce
+n'est donc qu'à ma personne qu'ils en voulaient; je les plains de ne
+point savoir que tous mes v&#339;ux tendent au bonheur de la France; mais
+tout homme peut s'egarer. Dites aux ingrats que je leurs pardonne. Mons.
+le Conte aneantissez la procedure." Maintenant je defie le royaliste le
+plus fidele qui seroit temoin d'un proçede si magnanime, de ne point
+dire, si le ciel dans sa colere devait un usurpateur a la France;
+remercions d'avoir du celui ci. Arrete malhereux, tes yeux ont vu, tes
+oreilles ont entendu, ne crois rien de tout; mais deux jours apres
+trouve toi, au lever de ce hero, si magnanime, si peu avide de se
+veuger&mdash;on ouvre, le voici, la foule des courtisans l'environne, tout le
+monde fixe les yeux sur lui. Sa figure est decomposée, tous les muscles
+de son visage sont en contraction, tout son ensemble est farouche et
+colere. Un silence funebre regne dans l'assemblée. Le Prince n'a point
+encore parlè, mais il promene des regardes sur la groupe: il appeicoit
+le meme officier, qui deux jours avant lui avait presente le rapport,
+"Monsieur le Conte, (dit il), ces laches conspirateurs sont ils
+executés? Leurs complices sont ils aux fers? Les bourreaux on ils donnè
+un nouvel example a qui voudrait imiter ceux qui veuleut a ma personne?"</p>
+
+<p>A distinguishing feature in Napoleon's character was unnecessary
+cruelty; of this the campaign in Moscow, (of which Labaume's narrative
+is a true though highly-coloured picture), the slaughter of the Turks in
+Egypt, the poisoning of his invalids, and the death of every one who
+stood in his way, are sufficient and notorious proofs. St Cloud was in
+general the scene of his debaucheries. The following anecdote was
+related by Count Rumford to a gentleman of my acquaintance, and may be
+depended on as correct; for at the time that it happened, Count Rumford
+was in lodgings on the spot. Napoleon had brought from Paris a beautiful
+girl belonging to the opera; he had carried her into one of the arbours
+of the garden. Many of the little boys about St Cloud were in habits of
+climbing up among the trees, whether merely as a play, or from curiosity
+to see the Emperor. On leaving the arbour with his favourite, Napoleon
+saw one of these boys perched upon a high tree above him. He flew
+straight to one of the gates, and bringing the sentinel who was
+stationed there, he pointed out the boy, exclaiming, "Tirez sur ce b&mdash;&mdash;
+la." The order was executed, and the boy never more seen.</p>
+
+<p>But for no one act did he incur the hatred of the French in such a
+degree as for the murder of the Duke d'Enghien; in committing this
+crime, not only the laws of humanity, but the laws of nations were
+violated.</p>
+
+<p>This branch of the Royal Family was under a foreign power; he could by
+no means be esteemed a subject of Bonaparte. Even the family of
+Bonaparte, who, (as we shall presently see), did not possess many good
+qualities, were shocked with this crime; they reproached him with it;
+and Lucien said to him, <a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>"Vous voulez dont nous faire trainer sur la
+claye."</p>
+
+<p>The treatment of the Pope, of Pichegru, of Georges, of Moreau, furnish
+us with further instances of his cruelty. Bonaparte did his utmost to
+make the Parisians believe that Moreau was connected with Pichegru in
+the conspiracy to establish the Bourbons on the throne. This was totally
+false. But Napoleon, jealous of a rival like Moreau, could not bear that
+he should live. Moreau's bold and unbending character hastened his
+downfall. He always called the flat-bottomed boats, <a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>"Ces coquilles
+de noix;" and after an excellent dinner which he gave at Paris to many
+of his fellow Generals, in mockery of the <a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a>"Epées d'honneur, fusils
+d'honneur," &amp;c., which Bonaparte at this time distributed; Moreau sent
+for his cook, and with much ceremony invested him with a <a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a>"casserole
+d'honneur."</p>
+
+<p>There are many interesting traits of this noble character, which, if I
+had time, I should wish to give my readers. When he had been condemned
+to imprisonment for two years, by the express orders of Bonaparte, the
+impression made on the mind of the soldiery, of the judges, and of all
+the court, was such, that they seemed insensible to what was going on.
+Nobody was found to remove him from the bar; he descended the stairs of
+the court; walked down the street amid a crowd of admirers; and instead
+of escaping, as he easily might, he called a coach, and ordered the
+coachman to drive to the Temple. When arrived there, he informed the
+Governor of his sentence, and its execution. My readers will, I am sure,
+be pleased with a few extracts from the account of Moreau's death, given
+by his friends, M. Breton de la Martiniere and M. Rapatel:</p>
+
+<p>"Moreau conversait avec l'Empereur Alexandre, dont il n'etait separé que
+le demi longueur d'un cheval. Il est probable qu'on apperçut de la place
+ce brillant etat major, et que l'on tira dessus au hazard. Moreau fut
+seul frappé. Un boulet lui fraccassa le genou droit et à travers le
+flanc du cheval alla emporter le gros de la jambe gauche. Le genereux
+Alexandre versa des larmes. Le Colonel Rapatel se preçipitait sur son
+General. Moreau poussa un long soupir et s'evanouit. Revenu à lui meme,
+il parle avec le plus grand sang froid, et dit à Monsieur Rapatel, "Je
+suis perdu, mon ami, mais il est si glorieux de mourir pour une si belle
+cause, et sous les yeux d'un aussi grand Prince." Péu d'instants apres
+il dit à l'Empereur Alexandre lui meme, "Il ne vous reste que le
+tronc&mdash;mais le c&#339;ur y est, et la tête est à vous." Il doit souffrir des
+douleurs aigus&mdash;il demanda une cigare et se mit tranquillement à fumer.</p>
+
+<p>"Mons. Wylie, premier chirurgien de l'Empereur Alexandre, se hata
+d'amputer la jambe qui etait la plus mal traiteé. Pendant cette cruelle
+operation, Moreau montra à peine quelque alteration dans ses traits et
+ne cessa point de fumer la cigarre. L'amputation faite, Monsieur Wylie
+examina la jambe droite, et la trouva dans un tel etat qu'il ne peut se
+defendre d'un mouvement d'effroi. "Je vous entend," dit Moreau, "Il faut
+encore couper celle ci, eh bien, faites vite. Cependant j'eusse preferé
+la mort." Il voulait ecrire à sa femme. Il ecrivait donc d'une main
+assez ferme ces propres expressions. "Ma chere amie,&mdash;La bataille se
+decide il y a trois jours.&mdash;J'ai eu les deux jambes emportées d'un
+boulet de canon&mdash;ce coquin de Bonaparte est toujours hereux. On m'a
+fait l'amputation aussi bien que possible&mdash;l'armée a faite un mouvement
+retrograde, ce n'est pas par revers, mais par decousu et pour se
+rapprocher au General Blucher. Excuse mon griffonage. Je t'aime et
+t'embrasse de tout mon c&#339;ur. Je charge Rapatel de finir."</p>
+
+<p>"Tout à l'heure il dit: "Je ne suis pas sans danger, je le sais bien,
+mais si je meurs, si une fin prematurée m'enleve à une femme, à une
+fille aimèe; a mon pays que je voulais servir malgre lui meme; n'oubliez
+pas de dire, aux Français qui vous parleront de moi, que je meurs avec
+le regret de n'avoir pas accompli mes projets. Pour affranchir ma patrie
+du joug affreux qui l'opprime pour ecraser Bonaparte, toutes les armes,
+tous les moyens etaient bons. Avec quelle joie j'aurai consacré le peu
+de talent que je possede à la cause de l'humanite! Mon c&#339;ur appartenoit
+a la France."</p>
+
+<p>"Vers sept heurs le malade se trouvant seul avec Monsieur Svinine lui
+dit d'une voix affaiblie&mdash;" Je veux absolument vous dicter une
+lettre.&mdash;Monsieur Svinine prit la plume en gemissant et traça ce peu de
+lignes sous la dictée de Moreau.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">"<span class="smcap">Sire</span>,&mdash;Je descends dans le tombeau avec les memes sentiments de
+respect, d'admiration, et de devouement que votre Majesté m'a
+constamment inspiré, des que j'ai eu le bohheur de m'approcher de votre
+personne."</p>
+
+<p>"En pronoçant ces derniers mots, le malade s'interompit et ferma les
+yeux M. Svinine attendit, croyant que Moreau meditait sur la suite de sa
+depeche&mdash;Vain espoir&mdash;Moreau n'etait plus."<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p>
+
+<p>I am impatient to finish the character of Napoleon, and to get upon some
+other more agreeable subject. I shall end by giving an account of his
+last appearance in France, as related to me by the Sub-Prefect of Aix,
+who accompanied him on his way from Aix to the coast.&mdash;After passing
+Montlement, the public feeling began to burst forth against him. The
+spirit of the Provençals could not be restrained. In every village was
+displayed the white cockade, and the fleur de lis. In one, the villagers
+were employed at the moment of his passing in hanging him in effigy; at
+another they compelled him to call out Vive le Roi, and he obeyed them,
+while his attendants refused. For a part of the way he was forced to
+mount a little poney in the dress of an Austrian officer. Arrived at the
+village of La Calade, the following extraordinary scene passed at the
+inn&mdash;It was also related to me by our banker, who had it from the
+hostess herself: The landlord was called for, and a mean-looking figure
+in plain clothes, with a travelling-cap, and loose blue pantaloons,
+asked him if he could have dinner for twenty persons who were coming.
+"Yes, (said the landlord), if you take what fare I have; but I trust it
+is not for that <i>coquin</i> the Emperor, whom we expect soon here." "No,
+(said he), it is only for a part of his suite.&mdash;Bring here some wine,
+and let the people be well served when they arrive." Presently the
+landlady entered with the wine, a fine, bold Provençal, and a decided
+royalist, as all the Provençal snow are. <a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>"Ecoutez, bonne femme, vous
+attendez l'Empereur n'est pas?" 'Oui, Monsieur, j'espere que nous le
+verrons?' "Eh bien, bonne femme, vous autres que dites vous de
+l'Empereur?" 'Qu'il est un grand coquin.' "Eh! ma bonne femme, et vous
+meme que dites vous?" 'Monsieur, voulez vous que je vous dise
+franchment ce que je pense: Si j'etais le capitaine du vaisseau, je ne
+l'embarquerai que pour le noyer."</p>
+
+<p>The stranger said nothing. After an hour or two, the landlord asked his
+wife if she would like to see Bonaparte, for that he was arrived. She
+was all anxiety to see him. He took her up stairs, and pointed to the
+little man in the travelling cap. The surprise of the woman may be
+conceived. The Emperor made her approach, and said to her she was a good
+woman; but that there were many things told of Bonaparte which were not
+true.</p>
+
+<p>I shall continue the Sub-Prefect's narrative in his own words:&mdash;<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a>"Les
+Commissaires, en arrivant à Calade, le trouvoient la tête appuyée sur
+les deux mains, et le visage baignè de larmes. Il leur dit qu'on en
+voulait decidement à sa vie; que la maitresse de l'auberge, qui ne
+l'avait pas reconnu lui avait declaré que l'Empereur etait detesté comme
+un scelerat, et qu'on ne l'embarquerait que pour le noyer. Il ne
+voulait rien manger ni boire quelque instances qu'on lui fit, et
+quoiqu'il dut etre rassurè par l'example de ceux qui etaient a tablé
+avec lui. Il fit venir de la voiture du pain et de l'eau qu'il prit avec
+avidité. On attendait la nuit pour continuer la route; on n'etait qu'à
+deux lieues d'Aix. La population de cette ville n'eut pas eté aussi
+facile à contenir que celle des villages ou on avait deja couru tant de
+perils. Monsieur, le Sous-Prefét, prenant avec lui le Lieutenant des
+gend'armes et six gend'armes, se mit en route vers la Calade. La nuit
+etait obscure, et le temps froid; cette double circonstance protegea
+Napoleon beaucoup mieux que n'aurait fait la plus forte escorte. Mons.
+le Sous-Prefét et la gend'armerie rencontrerent le cortege peu
+d'instants apres avoir quitté la Calade, et la suivoient jusqu'à ce
+qu'ils arriverent aux portes d'Aix à deux heures du matin. Apres avoir
+changé les chevaux, Bonaparte continuant sa route, passa sous les murs
+de la ville, au milieu des cris repetés de "Vive le Roi," que firent
+entendre les habitants accourus sur les remparts. Il arriva a la limite
+du departement à une auberge appellee la Grande Prgere, ce fut là qu'il
+s'arreta pour dejeuner. Le General Bertrand proposa a Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét de monter, avant que de partir, dans la chambre des
+Commissaires ou tout le monde etait à dejeuner. Il y avoit dix ou douzes
+personnes. Napoleon etait du nombre; il avait son costume d'officier
+Autrichien, et une casque sur la tête. Voyant le Sous-Prefét an habit
+d'auditeur, il lui dit, "Vous ne m'auriez pas reconnu sons ce costume?
+Ce sont ces Messieurs qui me l'ont fait prendre, le jugeant necessaire à
+ma sureté. J'aurais pu avoir une escorte de trois mille homines, qui
+j'ai refusé, preferant de me fier à la loyauté Française. Je n'ai pas eu
+à me plaindre de cette confiance depuis Fontainbleau jusqu'à Avignon;
+mais depuis cette ville jusqu'ici j'ai eté insulté,&mdash;j'ai couru bien de
+dangers. Les Provençaux se dishonnerent. Depuis qui je suis en France je
+n'ai pas eu un bon battaillon de Provençeaux sous mes ordres. Ils ne
+sont bons que pour crier. Les Gascons sont fanfarons, mais au moins ils
+sont braves." Sur ces paroles, un des convives, qui etait sans dout
+Gascon, tira son jabot et dit en riant, "Cela fait plaisir."</p>
+
+<p>Bonaparte continuant à s'addresser an Sous-Prefét, lui dit, "Que fait le
+Prefét?" 'Il est parti à la premiere nouvelle du changement survenu à
+Paris.' "Et sa femme?" 'Elle etait partie plutôt.'&mdash;"Elle avait donc
+prit le devant. Paie l'on bien les octrois et les droits reunis?"&mdash;'Pas
+un sou.'&mdash;"Y-a-t-il beaucoup d'Anglais à Marseilles?" Ici Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét raconta à Bonaparte tout ce qui s'etait passè naguere dans
+ce port, et avec quels transports on avait accueilli les Anglais.
+Bonaparte, qui ne prenait pas grand plaisir à ce reçit y mit fin en
+disant au Sous-Prefét, "Dites à vos Provençaux que l'Empereur est bien
+mecontent d'eux."</p>
+
+<p>Arrivè a Bouilledon, il se s'enferma dans ua apartment avec sa s&#339;ur
+(Pauline Borghese)&mdash;Des sentinels furent places a la porte. Cependant
+des dames arriveés dans un galerie qui communiquait avec cette chambre,
+y trouverent un militaire en uniform d'officier Autrichien, qui leur
+dit, "Que desirez vous voir, Mesdames?" 'Nous voudrions voir Napoleon.'
+"Mais ce'st moi, Mesdames." Ces dames le regardant lui dirent en riant,
+'Vous plaisantez, Monsieur; ce n'est pas vous qui etes Napoleon.' "Je
+vous assure, Mesdames, ce'st moi. Vous vous imaginez donc que Napoleon
+avait l'air plus mechant. N'est pas qu'on dit que je suis un scelerat,
+un brigand?" Les dames n'eurent garde de le dementir, Bonaparte ne
+voulant pas trop les presser sur ce point detourna le conversation. Mais
+toujours occupé de sa premier idée, il y revint brasquement: "Convenez
+en Mesdames, leur dit il, maintenant que la Fortune m'est contraire, on
+dit que je suis un coquin, un scelerat, un brigand. Mais savez vous ce
+que c'est que tout cela? J'ai voula mettre la France au dessus de
+l'Angleterre, et j'ai echoué dans ce projet."</p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_a_IV" id="CHAPTER_a_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h3>
+
+<p class="head">STATE OF FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON&mdash;CONTINUED.</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="head"><i>AGRICULTURE.</i></p>
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">T</span><span class="smcap">o</span>
+one unacquainted with the present division of society, and the
+condition of each of its branches in France; to one who had only cast
+his eye, in travelling, over the immense tracts of cultivated land, with
+scarcely an acre of waste to diversify the scene, and who had permitted
+first impressions to influence his judgement, it might appear, that in
+agriculture, France far excelled every other country in the world. In
+England, we have immense tracts of common in many of the counties;&mdash;in
+Scotland; we have our barren hills, our mosses, and moors;&mdash;in America,
+the cultivation bears but a small proportion to the wilds, the swamps,
+and the forests. In our beautiful provinces in the East Indies, the
+cultivation forms but a speck in the wide extent of common, and forest,
+and jungle. Why should France furnish a different spectacle? Why should
+the face of the country there wear a continual smile, while its very
+heart is torn with faction, and its energies fettered by tyranny? There
+are many who maintain that this state of the country is the happy effect
+of the revolution; but it will, I conceive, not be difficult to shew,
+that though certainly a consequence of the great change, it is far from
+being a happy one. We surely would not pronounce it a happy state of
+things, where the interests of all other branches of the community were
+sacrificed to promote the welfare of the peasantry alone.</p>
+
+<p>The peasantry, no doubt, when their rights are preserved to them, as
+they are the most numerous, so they become the most important members of
+a civil society. "Although," as is well observed by Arthur Young, "they
+be disregarded by the superficial, or viewed with contempt by the vain,
+they will be placed, by those who judge of things not by their external
+appearance, but by their intrinsic worth, as the most useful class of
+mankind; their occupations conduce not only to the prosperity, but to
+the very existence of society; their life is one unvaried course of
+hardy exertion and persevering toil. The vigour of their youth is
+exhausted by labour, and what are the hopes and consolations of their
+age? Sickness may deprive them of the opportunity of providing the least
+supply for the declining years of life, and the gloomy confinement of a
+work-house, or the scanty pittance of parochial help, are their only
+resources. By their condition may be estimated the real prosperity of a
+country; the real opulence, strength, and security of the public are
+proportionate to the comfort which they enjoy, and their wretchedness is
+a <i>sure criterion of a bad administration</i>."</p>
+
+<p>I have quoted this passage at length, in order that I might shew that
+France supplies us in this case, as in many others, with a wide
+exception from those general rules in politics which time and experience
+had long sanctioned. We shall in vain look at the state of the peasantry
+of that country as affording a criterion of the situation of any other
+branch of the community. It did not remain concealed from the deep and
+penetrating eye of Napoleon, that if the peasantry of a country were
+supported, and their condition improved, any revolution might be
+effected; any measure, however tyrannical, provided it did not touch
+them, might be executed with ease. For the sake of the peasantry, we
+shall perceive that the yeomanry, the farmers, the <i>bourgeoisie</i>, the
+nobility, were allowed to dwindle into insignificance. His leading
+principle was never to interfere with their properties, however they may
+have been obtained; and he invariably found, that if permitted to enjoy
+these, they calmly submitted to taxation, furnished recruits for his
+conscription, and supported him in every measure.</p>
+
+<p>In tracing the causes and effects of the various revolutions which take
+place among civilized nations, political writers have paid too little
+attention to the effects of property. France affords us an interesting
+field for investigation on this interesting question; but the narrow
+limits of our work will not admit of our indulging in such speculations.
+We cannot, however, avoid remarking by the way, that the facility of
+effecting a revolution in the government of France, so often shewn of
+late, has arisen, in a great measure, from this state of the property
+of the peasantry. Under the revolution they gained this property, and
+they respected and supported the revolutionists. Under Napoleon, their
+property was respected, and they bore with him, and admired him. Louis
+commenced by encouraging them in the idea that their rights would be
+respected, and they remained quiet:&mdash;his Ministers commenced their plans
+of restoring to the noblesse their estates, and the King immediately
+lost the affections of the peasantry. They welcomed Napoleon a second
+time, because they knew his principles: They have again welcomed their
+King, because they are led to suppose that experience has changed the
+views of his Ministers: but they suspect him, and on the first symptom
+of another change they will join in his expulsion.</p>
+
+<p>The nobility, the great landed proprietors, the yeomanry, the lesser
+farmers, all the intermediate ranks who might oppose a check to the
+power of a tyrannical prince, are nearly annihilated. The property of
+these classes, but more particularly of the nobility, has been
+subdivided and distributed among the peasants; become their own, it has,
+no doubt, been much better managed, for it is their immediate interest
+that not an acre of waste ground should remain. They till it with their
+own hands, and, without any intermediate agents, they draw the profits.
+Lands thus managed, must, of course, be found in a very different state
+from those whose actual proprietor is perhaps never on the spot, who
+manages through stewards, bailiffs, and other agents, and whose rank
+prevents the possibility of his assisting, or even superintending, the
+labour of his peasantry.</p>
+
+<p>Having shewn the causes of the present appearance of France, we must
+describe the effects, by presenting to our readers the picture which was
+every where before our eyes in traversing the country. The improvement
+in agriculture, or to speak literally, in the method of tilling the
+soil, is by no means great. The description of the methods pursued, and
+of the routine of crops, given by Arthur Young, corresponds very exactly
+with what we saw. It may be observed, however, that the ploughing is
+rather more neat, and the harrowing more regular. To an English eye both
+of these operations would appear most superficial; but it ought to be
+considered, that here nature does almost every thing, little labour is
+necessary, and in many parts of the country manure is never used: but
+the defect in the quality of the cultivation is somewhat compensated by
+the quantity. Scarce an acre of land which would promise to reward the
+cultivator will be found untilled. The plains are covered with grain,
+and the most barren hills are formed into vineyards. And it will
+generally be found, that the finest grapes are the produce of the most
+dry, stony, and seemingly barren hills. It is in this extension of the
+cultivation that we trace the improvement; but there must also be some
+considerable change for the better, though not in the same degree, in
+the method of cultivation, which is demonstrated by the fact, that a
+considerable rise has taken place in the rent and price of land. In many
+places it has doubled within the last twenty-five years; an <i>arpent</i> now
+selling for 1000 francs, which was formerly sold for 500.</p>
+
+<p>It is, however, extraordinary, that these improvements have, as yet,
+only shewn their influence in the dress of the peasantry, and no where
+in the comfort or neatness of their houses. Between Calais and Paris,
+their houses are better than we found them afterwards on our way to the
+south. In that direction, also, they were almost invariably well
+clothed, having over their other clothes (and not as a substitute for a
+coat) a sort of blue linen frock, which had an appearance of attention
+to dress, not to be seen in other parts of the country, for the
+peasantry in most other parts, though neatly clothed, presented, in the
+variety of their habits and costumes, a very novel spectacle. The large
+tails, which give them so military an appearance, and impress us with
+the idea that they have <i>marched</i>, are by no means a proof of this
+circumstance; for we were informed, that the first thing done in most
+instances, was to deprive the conscripts of their superabundant hair.
+But the long tail and the cocked hat, are worn in imitation of the
+higher orders of older time. It is indeed a sight of the most amusing
+kind to the English eye, to behold a French peasant at his work, in
+velvet coat and breeches, powdered hair, and a cocked hat. But we do not
+mean to give this as the usual dress of the peasants, although we have
+frequently met with it. Their dress is very often as plain, neat, and
+sufficient, as their houses are the reverse.</p>
+
+<p>In Picardy, the luxuriant fruit-trees which surround the cottages and
+houses, give an appearance of comfort, which is not borne out by the
+actual state of the houses on a nearer inspection. Near Laon, and
+towards the frontiers of French Flanders, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their dress was very neat, and their
+houses much more substantial, and, in some parts, ornament was added to
+strength. In this district, the people had the advantage of being
+employed in the linen manufacture in their own houses, besides their
+ordinary agricultural occupations; and their condition reminded us of
+the effects of this intermixture of occupations presented by a view of
+Clydesdale in Scotland, or of the West Riding of Yorkshire.</p>
+
+<p>Towards Fontainbleau, and to the east of Paris, on the road of Soissons,
+the peasantry inhabit the old villages, or rather little towns, and no
+cottages are to be seen on the lands. No gardens are attached to the
+houses in these towns. The houses have there an appearance of age, want
+of repair, and a complete stagnation of commerce. And even the peasantry
+there seemed considerably reduced, but they were always well dressed,
+and by no means answered Arthur Young's description. Still their houses
+denoted great want of comfort; very little furniture was to be seen, and
+that either of the very coarsest kind, or of the gaudy and gilded
+description, which shewed whence it came. The intermixture is hideous.
+In the parts of the country above named; the food often consisted of
+bread and pork, and was better than what we found in the south. But
+even here, the small number of pigs, the poor flocks of sheep, and,
+indeed, the absence of any species of pasture for cattle, demonstrated
+that there was not a general or extensive consumption of animal food or
+the produce of the dairy.</p>
+
+<p>The little demand for butcher meat, or the produce of pasture, is
+probably, as Arthur Young has hinted, one great cause of the continuance
+of the fallow system of husbandry in France; for where there is no
+consumption of these articles, it is impossible that a proper rotation
+of crops can be introduced.</p>
+
+<p>In noticing the causes of the decided improvement in the condition of
+the peasantry, we may observe in passing, that the great consumption of
+human life, during the revolution, and more particularly under
+Napoleon's conscription, must have considerably bettered the condition
+of those who remained, and who were able for work, by increasing the
+price of labour.</p>
+
+<p>The industry of the peasants in every part of the country, cannot be
+sufficiently praised&mdash;it as remarkable as the apathy and idleness of
+tradesmen and artificers. Every corner of soil is by them turned to
+account, and where they have gardens, they are kept very neat. The
+defects in the cultivation arise, therefore, from the goodness of the
+climate, the ignorance or poverty of the cultivators, or from inveterate
+prejudice.</p>
+
+<p>We must now say a few words with regard to the state of agriculture and
+the condition of the peasantry between Paris and Aix, and more
+especially in the south of France. Here also every acre of land is
+turned to good account, but the method of tilling the land is very
+defective. The improvements in agriculture, in modern times, will be
+found to owe their origin to men of capital, of education, and of
+liberal ideas, and such men are not to be found here. The prejudices and
+the poverty of their ancestors, have not ceased to have their effects in
+the present generation, in retarding the improvement in the tillage, and
+in the farm instruments. They are, in this respect, at least a century
+behind us. From the small subdivisions in many parts of the country,
+each family is enabled to till its own little portion with the spade;
+and where the divisions are larger, and ploughs used, they will
+invariably be found rude, clumsy, enormous masses of wood and iron, weak
+from the unskilfulness of the workmanship, continuing from father to son
+without improvement, because improvement would not only injure their
+purses, but give a deadly wound to that respect and veneration which
+they have for the good old ways of their ancestors. There is endless
+variety in the shape and size of the French plough; but amid the
+innumerable kinds of them, we never had the good fortune to meet one
+good or sufficient instrument.</p>
+
+<p>The use of machinery in the farm-stead is unknown, and grain, as of old,
+is very generally trodden by oxen, sometimes on the sides of the high
+roads, and winnowed by the breath of Heaven.</p>
+
+<p>In the south of France, we met with much more regular enclosure than
+around Paris; but even here, little attention is bestowed in keeping the
+fences in repair. Hedges are, however, less necessary in the south than
+elsewhere; for there is a complete want of live stock of every
+description, and no attention paid to the breeding of it. This want does
+not strike the traveller immediately, because he finds butcher meat
+pretty good in the small towns; excellent in the larger cities, and
+cheap everywhere. But he will find, that France is, in this respect,
+much in the same state with India. Animal food is cheap, because the
+consumption is very limited. In France, but more particularly in the
+south, I should say that not one-sixth of the butcher meat is consumed
+by each man or woman which would be requisite in England. Bread, wine,
+fruit, garlic, onions and oil, with occasionally a small portion of
+animal food, form the diet of the lower orders; and among the higher
+ranks, the method of cooking makes a little meat go a great way. The
+immense joints of beef and mutton, to which we are accustomed in
+England, were long the wonder of the French; but latterly, they have
+begun to introduce (among what they humorously term <i>plats de
+resistance</i>) these formidable dishes.</p>
+
+<p>Excepting in the larger towns, butcher meat, particularly beef and
+mutton, is generally ill fed. In the part of the south, where we resided
+during the winter, the beef was procured from Lyons, a distance of above
+200 miles. In the south, the breed of cattle of every description is
+small and stinted, and unless when pampered up for the market, they are
+generally very poor and ill fed. The traveller is everywhere struck with
+the difference between the English and French horses, cows, pigs, sheep,
+&amp;c. and in more than the half of France, he will find, for the reasons
+formerly assigned, an almost total want of attention to these useful
+animals among the farmers. At Aix, where we were situated, there was
+only one cow to be found. Our milk was supplied by goats and sheep; and
+all the butter consumed there, excepting a very small quantity made from
+goat's milk, was also brought from Lyons. This want is not so much felt
+in Provence; because, for their cookery, pastry, &amp;c. they use olive oil,
+which, when fresh, is very pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>The want of barns, sheds, granaries, and all other farm buildings, is
+very conspicuous in the south. The dairy is there universally neglected,
+and milk can only be had early in the morning, and then in very small
+quantity; nay, the traveller may often journey a hundred miles in the
+south of France without being able to procure milk at all; this we
+ourselves experienced. The eye is nowhere delighted with the sight of
+rich and flourishing farm-steads, nor do the abundant harvests of France
+make any shew in regular farm-yards. All the wealth of the peasantry is
+concealed. Each family hides the produce of their little estate within
+their house. An exhibition of their happy condition would expose them to
+immediate spoliation from the tax-officers. In our own happy country,
+the rich farm-yard, the comfortable dwelling-house of the farmer, and
+the neat smiling cottage of the labourer, call down on the possessors
+only the applause and approbation of his landlord, of his neighbours,
+and of strangers. They raise him in the general opinion. In France, they
+would prove his ruin.</p>
+
+<p>To conclude these few observations on the state of agriculture, we may
+remark, that the revolution has certainly tended greatly to promote the
+extension of the cultivation, by throwing the property of the lands into
+the hands of the peasantry, who are the actual cultivators, and also by
+removing the obstructions occasioned by the seignorial rights, the
+titles, game laws, corveès; yet I think there cannot be a doubt, that,
+aided by capital, and by the more liberal ideas of superior farmers
+benefiting by the many new and interesting discoveries in modern
+agriculture, France might, without that terrible convulsion, have shewn
+as smiling an aspect, and the science of agriculture been much further
+advanced.</p>
+
+<p>If, by the revolution, the situation of the peasantry be improved, we
+must not forget, on the other hand, that to effect this improvement, the
+nobility, gentry, yeomanry, and, we might almost add, farmers, have been
+very generally reduced to beggary. The restraint which the existence of
+these orders ever opposed to the power of a bad king, of a tyrant, or of
+an adventurer, might have remained, and all have been happier, better,
+and richer than they are now.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="head"><i>COMMERCE.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>It was probably the first wish of Napoleon's heart, as it was also his
+wisest policy, that the French should become entirely a military, not a
+commercial nation. Under his government, the commerce of France was
+nearly annihilated. It was however necessary, that at times he should
+favour the commercial interest of the towns in the interior, from which
+he drew large supplies of money, and his constant enmity against the
+sea-port towns of Marseilles and Bourdeaux, induced him to encourage the
+interior commerce of France, to the prejudice of the maritime trade of
+these ports. Under Napoleon, Paris, Lyons, Rouen, and most of the large
+towns which carried on this interior commerce, were lately in a
+flourishing state. In these towns, if not beloved, he was at least
+tolerated, and they wished for no change of government. But at
+Marseilles, and at Bourdeaux, he was detested, and a very strong
+royalist party existed, which caused him constant annoyance. At
+Bourdeaux, it may be recollected, that the Bourbons were received with
+open arms, and that that town was the first to open its gates to the
+allies. It was also among the last that held out. I was in that town
+while the royalist party were still powerful, while every thing shewed a
+flourishing commerce, while the people were happy; the wine trade was
+daily enriching the inhabitants, and they blessed the return of peace,
+and of their lawful princes. In two days the face of things was changed.
+A party of soldiers, 300 strong, were dispatched by Napoleon, under the
+command of General Clausel. The troops of the line here, as everywhere
+else, betrayed their trust, and joined the rebels, and Bourdeaux was
+delivered up to the spoiler.</p>
+
+<p>Never was there a more melancholy spectacle than that now afforded by
+the inhabitants of this city. You could not enter a shop where you did
+not find the owners in tears. We were then all hastening to leave
+France. They embraced us, and prayed that our army might soon be among
+them to restore peace and the Bourbons. Here I am convinced that
+Bonaparte is hated by all but the military. Yet what could a town like
+Bourdeaux effect, when its own garrison betrayed it?</p>
+
+<p>Besides the bad effects of Bonaparte's policy on the commerce of France,
+I must notice the wide influence of another cause, which was the natural
+result of the revolution. Although at first an attack was only made
+against the noblesse, yet latterly, every rich and powerful family was
+included among the proscribed, and all the commercial houses of the
+first respectability were annihilated. These have never been replaced,
+and the upstart race of petty traders have not yet obtained the
+confidence of foreigners. The trade of France is therefore very
+confined; and even were opportunities now afforded of establishing a
+trade with foreign nations, it would be long before France could benefit
+by it, from the total want of established and creditable houses.</p>
+
+<p>The manifest signs of the decay of commerce in France cannot escape the
+observation of the traveller, more especially if he has been in the
+habit of travelling in England. The public diligences are few in number,
+and most miserably managed. It is difficult to say whether the
+carriage, the horses, or the harness, gives most the idea of meanness.
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of large towns, you meet with not a cart,
+or waggon, for twenty that the same distance would show in England. The
+roads are indeed excellent in most parts; but this is not in France, as
+in most countries, a proof of a flourishing commerce. It is for the
+conveyance of military stores, and to facilitate the march of the
+troops, that the police are required to keep the roads in good repair.
+The villages and towns throughout France, are in a state of dilapidation
+from want of repair. No new houses, shops, and warehouses building, as
+we behold every where in England. None of that hurry and bustle in the
+streets, and on the quays of the sea-port towns, which our blessed
+country can always boast. The dress of the people, their food, their
+style of living, their amusements, their houses, all bespeak extreme
+poverty and want of commerce.</p>
+
+<p>I was at some pains in ascertaining whether, in many of their
+manufactures, they were likely to rival us or injure our own.&mdash;I cannot
+say I have found one of consequence. There are indeed one or two
+articles partially in demand among us, in which the French have the
+superiority; silks, lace, gloves, black broad cloth, and cambric are
+the chief among them. The woollen cloths in France are extremely
+beautiful, and the finer sorts, I think, of a superior texture to any
+thing we have in England; but the price is always double, and sometimes
+treble of what they sell for at home, so that we have not much to fear
+from their importations. Few of the French can afford to wear these fine
+cloths.</p>
+
+<p>French watches are manufactured at about one half of the English price;
+but the workmanship is very inferior to ours, and unless as trinkets for
+ladies' wear, they do not seem much in estimation in England. The
+cutlery in France is wretched. Not only the steel, but the temper and
+polish, are far inferior to ours. A pair of English razors is, to this
+day, a princely present in France. Hardware is flimsy, ill finished, and
+of bad materials. All leather work, such as saddlery, harness, shoes,
+&amp;c. is wretchedly bad, but undersells our manufactures of the same kind
+by about one half. Cabinet work and furniture is handsome, shewy,
+insufficient, and dear. Jewellery equal, if not superior to ours in
+neatness, but not so sufficient. Hats and hosiery very indifferent. In
+glass ware we greatly excel the French, except in the manufacture of
+mirrors. Musical instruments of all descriptions are made as well, and
+at half the English price, in France. In every thing else, not here
+mentioned, as far as my memory serves me, I think I may report the
+manufactures of France greatly inferior to those in England. I have
+sometimes heard it stated, that in the manufacture of calicoes, muslins,
+and other cotton goods, the French are likely to rival us. On this
+subject I was not able to obtain the information I wished for, but one
+fact I can safely mention, the price of all these goods is at present,
+in most parts of France, nearly double what it is in England or
+Scotland, and their machinery is not to be compared with our own.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="head"><i>WEALTH OF THE NATION AND ITS DIVISION.</i></p>
+
+<p>To the traveller in France, every thing seems to denote extreme poverty,
+and that extending its influence over all ranks of society; and
+certainly, compared with England, France is wretchedly poor. But many of
+its resources remain hidden, and it is certain, that on the demands of
+its despotic ruler, France produced unlooked-for supplies. His wars have
+now greatly exhausted this hidden treasure, and there is, fortunately
+for the peace of the world, very little money left in the country. The
+marks of the wealth of the country, both absolutely, and in relation to
+other countries, are to be found in the manner of living, and extent of
+fortunes of its inhabitants; in the size, comfort, and style of their
+houses; in their dress and amusements; in the price of labour; the
+salaries of office; the trade and commerce of the country; the number of
+country houses, of banks, &amp;c. In examining each of these heads, we shall
+find that France is a very poor country.</p>
+
+<p>The sum of two thousand pounds a-year is reckoned a noble fortune in
+France, and very, very few, there are that possess that sum.</p>
+
+<p>One thousand pounds a-year constitutes a handsome fortune for a
+gentleman; and four hundred for a <i>bourgeois</i>, or for one employed in
+trade or commerce. Few of the nobility are now possessed of fortunes
+sufficient to maintain a carriage; and none under the rank of princes,
+in France, have <i>now</i> more than one carriage.</p>
+
+<p>The style of living is wretched: only the first, and richest houses, can
+afford to entertain company, and those but seldom. It requires a large
+fortune to maintain a regular cook; in half the houses they have only a
+dirty scullion, who, among her other work, cooks the dinner. In the
+other half, a traiteur sends in the dinner; or if a bachelor, the master
+of the house dines at a <i>table d'hôte</i>, as a <i>pensionaire</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The interior management of the French houses denotes extreme poverty.
+Some few articles of splendid furniture are displayed for shew in one or
+two rooms, while the rest of the house is shut up, and left dirty and
+ill furnished.</p>
+
+<p>Of their dress and amusements I have already said enough, to shew that
+they denote poverty, and I shall say more when I come to the French
+character.</p>
+
+<p>The price of labour is far lower than what we are used to, fluctuating
+from fifteen to twenty pence a-day. The salaries of office are,
+throughout France, not above one-third what they are in England. Of the
+want of trade and commerce I have already spoken. The public banks are
+very few in number, and only to be found in very large and commercial
+towns. Country houses and fine estates, there are none, or where they
+are found, it is in a state of dilapidation.</p>
+
+<p>Where, then, is the wealth of France? I was at some pains to solve this
+question. The remaining wealth of France is divided among the generals
+of Napoleon; the army furnishers and contractors; the prefects,
+sub-prefects; the numerous receivers and collectors of taxes; and,
+lastly, but chiefly, the peasantry. It may appear strange to those who
+are not acquainted with the present state of France, that I have
+mentioned the peasants among the richest; but I am convinced of the
+fact. The peasants in France have divided among themselves the lands and
+property of the emigrants. Napoleon drew supplies from them; but very
+politically maintained them in their possessions. Their condition, and
+the condition of the lands, shew them to be in easy circumstances. They
+are well clothed, and abundantly, though poorly fed.</p>
+
+<p>France is, in fine, a very poor country, compared with our own; but it
+is not without resources, and its wealth will remain concealed as long
+as it is under Napoleon; for whoever shewed wealth, was by him marked
+out as an object of plunder. By allowing unlimited power to his
+emissaries and spies, he was able to discover where the wealth lay, and
+by vesting the same power in his prefects, sub-prefects, receivers, and
+gend'armes, he seized on it when discovered. In the public prints,
+previous to his downfall, we may observe almost continually the thanks
+of Government to the farmers, proprietors, and others, for <i>their
+patriotic exertions in supplying horses, grain, &amp;c.</i> In these cases, the
+<i>patriotic farmers</i> had bands of gend'armerie stationed over them, who
+drove away their horses, their cattle and grain, without the hope even
+of payment or redress of any kind. Nothing denotes more the poverty of
+the country, than the want of horses, of cows, and all kinds of live
+stock.</p>
+
+<p>In no country in the world is there found so great a number of beggars
+as in France; and yet there are not wanting in every town establishments
+for the maintenance of the poor. These beggars are chiefly from among
+the manufacturing classes; the families of soldiers and labourers. The
+peasants are seldom reduced to this state, or when reduced, they are
+succoured by their fellow peasants, and do not beg publicly. The
+national poverty has had the worst effects on the French character; in
+almost every station in life they will be found capable of meanness.
+What can be more disgusting, than to see people of fashion and family
+reduced to the necessity of letting to strangers their own rooms, and
+retiring into garrets and other dirty holes&mdash;demanding exorbitant
+prices, and with perfect indifference taking half or a third&mdash;higgling
+for every article they purchase&mdash;standing in dirty wrappers at their
+doers, seeing the wood weighed in the street, on terms of familiarity
+with tradesmen and their own servants. All this you see in France daily;
+but on this subject I have elsewhere made observations.</p>
+
+<p>As connected with this part of the subject, a few words must be said on
+the condition of the towns and villages; for although I had at first
+intended to treat this, and the situation of the different ranks, as
+separate subjects; yet they seem to come in more naturally at present,
+when speaking of the wealth of France and its division. The towns
+throughout France, as well as the villages, particularly in the south,
+have an appearance of decay and dilapidation. The proprietors have not
+the means of repair. It is customary (I suppose from the heat of the
+climate), to build the houses very large; to repair a French house,
+therefore, is very expensive: and it will generally be seen, that in
+most, houses only one or two rooms are kept in repair, and furnished,
+while the rest of the house is crumbling to pieces. This is the case
+with all the great houses; in those of the common people we should
+expect more comfort, as they are small, and do not need either expensive
+repair or gay furniture; but comfort is unknown in France. On entering a
+small house in one of the villages, we find the people huddled together
+as they are said to do in some parts of England and Scotland. Men,
+women, dogs, cats, pigs, goats, &amp;c.&mdash;no glass in the windows&mdash;doors
+shattered&mdash;truckle-beds&mdash;a few earthen pots; and with all this filth, we
+find, perhaps, half a dozen velvet or brocade covered chairs; a broken
+mirror, or a marble slab-table; these are the articles plundered in
+former days of terror and revolution. All caffés and hotels in the
+villages are thus furnished.</p>
+
+<p>The streets in almost every town in France are without pavement. Would
+any one believe, that in the great city, as the French call it, there is
+a total want of this convenience? On this subject, Mercier, in his
+Tableaux de Paris, has this remark: <a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a>"Dès qu'on est sur le pavè de
+Paris, ou voit que le peuple n'y fait pas les loix;&mdash;aucune commoditè
+pour les gens de pied&mdash;point de trottoirs&mdash;le peuple semble un corps
+separè des autres ordres de l'etat&mdash;les riches et les grands qui ont
+equipage ont le droit de l'ecraser ou de le mutiler dans les rues&mdash;cent
+victimes expirent par annee sous les rues des voiture."</p>
+
+<p>Besides the want of pavement to protect us from the carriages, and to
+keep our feet dry, we have to encounter the mass of filth and dirt,
+which the nastiness of the inhabitants deposits, and which the police
+suffers to remain. The state of Edinburgh in its worst days, as
+described by our English neighbours, was never worse than what you meet
+with in France. The danger of walking the streets at night is very
+great, and the perfumes of Arabia do not prevail in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The churches in all the villages are falling to ruin, and in many
+instances are converted into granaries, barracks, and hospitals;
+manufacturing establishments are also in ruins, scarcely able to
+maintain their workmen; their owners have no money for the repair of
+their buildings. The following description of the changes that have
+taken place in the French villages, is better than any thing I can give;
+and from what I have seen, it is perfectly correct:</p>
+
+<p><a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a>"Avant la revolution, le village se composait de quatre mille
+habitans. Il fournissait pour sa part, au service general de l'Eglise et
+des hopitaux, ainsi qu'aux besoins de l'instruction cinq eclesiastiques,
+deux s&#339;urs de la charité, et trois maitres d'ecol. Ces derniers sont
+remplacé par un maitre d'equitation, un maitre de dessin et deux maitres
+de musique. Sur huit fabriques d'etoffes de laisne et de coton, il ne
+reste plus qu'une seule. En revanche il s'est etabli deux caffés, un
+tabaque, un restaurat, et un billiard qui prosperent d'une maniere
+surprenante. On comptait autrefois quarante charretiers de labour;
+vingt-cinq d'entre eux sont devenus couriers, piqueurs, et cochès. Ce
+vuide est remplie par autant de femmes, qui dirigent la charette et qui
+pour se delasser de tems en tems menent au marché des voitures de paille
+ou de charbon. Le nombre de charpentiers, de maçons, et d'autres
+artisans est diminué à peu pres de moitie. Mais le prix de tout les
+genres de main d'&#339;uvre ayant aussi augmenté de moitie&mdash;cela revient au
+meme&mdash;et la compensation se retablit. Une espece d'individus que le
+village fournit en grande abondance, et dans des proportions trop
+fortes ce sont les domestiques de luxe et de livrée. Pour peu que cela
+dure on achevera de depeupler le campagne de gens utiles qui le
+cultivent pour peupler les villes d'individus oisifs et corrompus.
+Beaucoup de femmes et de jeunes filles, qui n'etaient que des
+couturiers, et des servantes de femmes, ont aussi trouvè de l'avancement
+dans la capitale, et dans les grandes villes. Elles sont devenues femmes
+de chambre&mdash;brodeuses&mdash;et marchandes des modes. On dirait que le luxe a
+entreprit de pomper la jeunesse; toutes les idèes et tous les regards
+sont tournès vers lui à aucun epoque anterieure le contingent du village
+en hommes de loi&mdash;huissiers&mdash;etudiants en droits, mediçins, poetes et
+artistes, ne s'etait eleve au dela de trois ou quatre; il s'eleve
+maintenant à soixante deux, et une chose qu'on n'aurait jamais su
+imaginer autrefois c'est qu'il y a dans le nombre autant de peintres, de
+poetes, de comediens, de danseuses de theatre et de musiciens ambulans,
+qu'une ville de quatre vingt mille hommes aurait pu en fournir il y a
+trente ou quarante ans."</p>
+
+<p>Another mark of the poverty of France at present occurs to me: In every
+town, but particularly in the large cities, we are struck with numbers
+of idle young men and women who are seen in the streets. Now that the
+army no longer carries away the "surplus population of France," (to use
+the language of Bonaparte), the number of these idlers is greatly
+increased. The great manufacturing concerns have long ceased to employ
+them. France is too poor to continue the public works which Napoleon had
+every where begun. The French have no money for the improvement of their
+estates, the repair of their houses, or the encouragement of the
+numerous trades and professions which thrive by the costly taste and
+ever-varying fashion of a luxurious and rich community. Being on the
+subject of taste and fashion, I must not forget that I noticed the dress
+and amusements of the French as offering a mark of their poverty. The
+great meanness of their dress must particularly strike every English
+traveller; for I believe there is no country in the world where all
+ranks of people are so well dressed as in England. It is not indeed
+astonishing to see the nobility, the gentry, and those of the liberal
+professions well clothed, but to see every tradesman, and every
+tradesman's apprentice, wearing the same clothes as the higher orders;
+to see every servant as well, if not better clothed than his master,
+affords a clear proof of the riches of a country. In the higher ranks
+among the French, a gentleman has indeed a good suit of clothes, but
+these are kept for wearing in the evening on the promenade, or at a
+party. In the morning, clothes of the coarsest texture, and often much
+worn, or even ragged, are put on. If you pay a lady or gentleman a
+morning visit, you find them so metamorphosed as scarcely to be known;
+the men in dirty coarse cloth great coats, wide sackcloth trowsers and
+slippers; the women in coarse calico wrappers, with a coloured
+handkerchief tied round their hair. All the little gaudy finery they
+possess is kept for the evening, but even then there is nothing either
+costly or elegant, or neat, as with us. In their amusements also is the
+poverty of the people manifested. A person residing in Paris, and who
+had travelled no further, would think that this observation was unjust,
+for in Paris there is no want of amusements; the theatres are numerous,
+and all other species of entertainment are to be found. But in the
+smaller towns, one little dirty theatre, ill lighted, with ragged
+scenery, dresses, and a beggarly company of players, is all that is to
+be found. The price of admittance is also very low. The poverty of the
+people will not admit of the innumerable descriptions of amusements
+which we find in every little town in England: amateur concerts are
+sometimes got up, but for want of funds they seldom last long. My
+subscription to one of these at the town where we resided, was five
+francs per month, or about a shilling each concert. This may be taken as
+a specimen of the price of French amusements.</p>
+
+
+<p class="head"><i>STATE OF RELIGION</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> order of the priesthood in France had suffered greatly in the
+revolution. They were everywhere scouted and reviled, either for being
+supporters of the throne, or for being rich, or for being <i>moderès</i>.
+Napoleon found them in this condition; he never more than tolerated
+them, and latterly, by his open attack and cruel treatment of their
+chief, he struck the last and severest blow against the church. Unable
+to bear the insults of the military, deprived of the means of support,
+many of the clergy either emigrated or concealed themselves. In the
+principal towns, indeed, the great establishments took the oath of
+allegiance to the tyrant; but the inferior clergy and the country
+curates met nowhere with encouragement, and were allowed to starve, or
+to pick up a scanty pittance by teaching schools in a community who
+laughed at education, at morality, and religion.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the churches, convents, and monasteries were demolished; many
+were converted into barracks, storehouses, and hospitals. We saw but
+<i>one</i> village church in our travels through France, and even in the
+larger towns we found the places of public worship in a state of
+dilapidation. I went to see the palace of the Archbishop at Aix; out of
+a suite of most magnificent rooms, about 30 in number, <i>one miserable
+little chamber was furnished for his highness</i>. In the rest, the
+grandeur of former days was marked by the most beautiful tapestry on
+some part of the walls, while other parts had been laid bare and daubed
+over with caps of liberty, and groupes of soldiers and guillotines, and
+indecent inscriptions. The nitches for statues, and the frames of
+pictures, were seen empty. The objects which formerly filled them were
+dashed to pieces or burnt.</p>
+
+<p>The conduct of the people at the churches marked the low state of
+religion: the higher ranks talked in whispers, and even at times loudly,
+on their family concerns, their balls and concerts. The peasantry and
+lower ranks behaved with more decency, but seemed to think the service a
+mere form; they came in at all hours, and staid but a few minutes; went
+out and returned.</p>
+
+<p>We had in our small society some very respectable clergymen; but I am
+sorry to say, we had one instance shewing the immoral tendency of the
+celibacy of the clergy.</p>
+
+<p>Very few of the convents remain. I have detailed our visit to one of
+them in my journal; we found every thing decent and well conducted, but
+not with any thing like the strictness and rigour we expected. At Aix
+there was a small establishment of Ursulines, a very strict order; there
+was also a penitentiary establishment of Magdalenes, the rules of which
+were said by the people of Aix to be of the most inhuman nature. The
+caterers for the establishment were ordered to buy only spoilt
+provisions for food; fasting was prescribed for weeks together; and the
+miserable young women lay on boards a foot in breadth, with scarce any
+clothing. Their whole dress, when they went out, consisted of a shift
+and gown of coarsest hard blanket stuff. They were employed in educating
+young children. I once met a party of them walking out with their
+charges, who were chanting hymns and decorating these miserable walking
+skeletons with flowers.</p>
+
+<p>We had also at Aix a very celebrated preacher named De Coq. I went to
+hear him, and, though much struck with his fluency of language, did not
+much admire his style of preaching; there was too much of cant and
+declamation, and at times he made a most intolerable noise, roaring as
+if he were addressing an army. This man, however, succeeded in drawing
+tears from the audience; but this did not surprise me, for it is
+astonishing how easily this is accomplished. This reminds me of a scene
+which I witnessed one evening at the theatre at Aix. We were seated next
+an old Marquise with whom we were acquainted. The tragedy of Meropè, and
+particularly the part of the son Egistus, was butchered in a very
+superior style; the Marquise turned to my sister, and said to her, "Oh
+how touching! how does it happen that it does not make you cry? But you
+shall see me cry in a minute; I shall just think of my poor son whom
+Napoleon took for the conscription." She then by degrees worked herself
+up into a fit of tears, and really cried for a pretty tolerable space of
+time. A most amusing soliloquy took place at our house the night before
+the national guard left Aix, in pursuit of Bonaparte. This lady came to
+pay us a visit; and after crying very prettily, she exclaimed, "Oh, the
+<i>barbare</i>, he has taken away my son&mdash;he has ruined my concert which I
+had fixed for Thursday&mdash;we were to have had such music!&mdash;and Jule, my
+son, was to have sung; but Jule is gone, perhaps to&mdash;&mdash;<i>Oh, mon Dieu!
+mon Dieu!</i>&mdash;and I had laid out three hundred pounds in repairing my
+houses at Marseilles, and not one of them will now be let&mdash;and I had
+engaged Ciprè (a fiddler), for Thursday; and we should have been so
+happy."&mdash;But this is a most extraordinary episode to introduce when
+talking of the state of religion.</p>
+
+<p>Some measures taken latterly by the King, seem to have been but ill
+received by the French, and they then shewed how little attention they
+were inclined to pay to religious restraints, which were at variance
+with their interests and their pleasures: I allude to the shutting of
+the theatres and the shops on Sunday. Perhaps, considering the nature of
+their religion, and the long habit which had sanctioned the devoting of
+this day to amusement, the measure was too hasty. Certain it is, that
+neither this measure, nor the celebration of the death of Louis XVI. did
+any good to the Bourbon cause. The last could not fail to awaken many
+disagreeable feelings of remorse and of shame: It was a kind of
+punishment to all who had in any way joined in that horrid event. At
+Aix, the solemn ceremony was repeatedly interrupted by the noise of the
+military. We remarked one man in particular, who continued laughing,
+and beating his musket on the ground. On leaving the church, our
+landlord told us, he was one of those who had led one of the Marseilles
+bands at that time; and that there were in that small community, who had
+assembled in church, more than five or six others of the same
+description. How many of these men must there have been in all France
+whose feelings, long laid asleep, were awakened by such a ceremony!</p>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p class="head"><i>ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Napoleon's</span> greatest ambition was to inter-meddle with everything in the
+kingdom. With most of the changes which his restless spirit has
+produced, the French have no great reason to be satisfied; but all
+agree, that with regard to the administration of justice, and the
+courts, for the trial of civil suits in France, the alterations which he
+has introduced, have been ultimately of essential benefit to the
+country. Previous to his accession to the government, the sources of
+equity were universally contaminated, and the influence of corruption
+most deeply felt in every part of the constitution of their courts. On
+the accession of Napoleon to the throne, the most respectable and able
+men among the judges and magistrates were continued in their
+appointments, and the vacancies, occasioned by the dismission of those
+found guilty of corruption, (many of whom had, during the confusions of
+the revolution, actually seized their situations), were supplied, in
+frequent instances, by those of the older nobility, whose characters and
+principles were known and respected. In addition to this, the civil and
+the criminal codes were both carefully revised. In this revisal, the
+greatest legal talents in the nation were employed. The laws of
+different nations, more particularly of England, were brought to
+contribute in the formation of a new code; and by a compilation from the
+Roman, the French and the English law, a new institute, or body of civil
+and criminal justice, was formed, intended for the regulation of the
+whole kingdom. Previous to this change, it must be observed, that the
+laws, in the different provinces of the kingdom, were in some measure
+formed <i>upon</i>, and always interwoven <i>with</i>, the particular observances
+and customs of their respective provinces; the inevitable consequence
+was, that every province, possessing different usages, had also a
+different code. <a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a>"La bizarrerie des loix," says Mercier, "et la
+varieté des coutumes font que l'avocat le plus savant devient un ignore
+des qu'il se trouve en Gasgogne, ou en Normandie. Il perd a Vernon, un
+procés qu'il avoit gagné a Poissy. Prenez le plus habile pour la
+consultation, et la plaidoyerie, eh bien, il sera obligé d'avoir son
+avocat et son procureur, si on lui intente un proces dans le resort de
+la plupart des autres parlemens." The consequence of this was an
+uncertainty, intricacy, and want of any thing like regulating principles
+in the laws, and an incoherency and inconsistency in the administration
+of both civil and criminal justice.</p>
+
+<p>The improvements introduced by the late Emperor, have therefore,
+considered under this point of view, been of no common benefit to the
+kingdom, as they have given, to some measure, certainty, principle and
+consistency, the essential attributes of good laws, to what was
+formerly a mass of confusion.</p>
+
+<p>At Aix, where we resided, the head court is held for four provinces, and
+there is a college for the study of law and divinity. Most of the
+acquaintances I there formed were gentlemen belonging to the law; many
+of them had been liberally educated, were men of talents, and some of
+them possessed acquirements which would have done honour to any bar. The
+opinion of all these was strongly in favour of the new codes; and they
+go so far as to say, that when the matter comes under consideration,
+there are very few things which the present government will change, and
+very few judges who will lose their situations.</p>
+
+<p>They allowed, however, that latterly, Napoleon had forgotten his usual
+moderation, and, incensed against the importation of foreign
+merchandise, had instituted a court, and formed a new and most rigorous
+code for the trial of all cases of smuggling and contraband trade. But
+fortunately for the people, this court had scarcely commenced its severe
+inflictions, when the deposition of Napoleon, and the subsequent peace
+with England, rendered its continuance unnecessary. The punishments
+awarded by this court, were, in their rigour, infinitely more terrible
+than that of any other in Europe. There was not the slightest
+proportionment of the punishment to the offence. For the sale of the
+smallest proportion of contraband goods, the unfortunate culprit was
+condemned immediately to eight or ten years labour amongst the
+galley-slaves. For the weightier offences, the importation of larger
+quantities of forbidden goods, perpetual labour, and even death, were
+not unfrequently pronounced.</p>
+
+<p>I was informed, that when Napoleon commanded the Senate to pass the
+decree for the institution of this court, one of the members asked him,
+if he believed he would find Frenchmen capable of executing his orders,
+and enforcing such laws? His answer was, "my salaries will soon find
+judges;" and the consequence of this determination, upon his part, was,
+that while he paid the judges of the other tribunals at Aix by a
+miserable annuity of one hundred and fifty pounds, and two hundred
+pounds, the judges of the court of contraband were ordered to receive
+seven hundred pounds and eight hundred pounds. Napoleon was perfectly
+right in his opinion; that such was the want of honour and principle,
+and such the excessive poverty of France, that these salaries would soon
+find judges. I have heard from unquestionable authority, that, for the
+last vacancy which was filled up in that court, there were ten
+candidates.</p>
+
+<p>The court-room, in which this law tribunal was held, is now occupied by
+a society of musical amateurs, and a concert was given there, during our
+stay at Aix, once every week. One of the lawyers, in talking of this
+court, informed me, that in that very room, where the judges of the
+court of contraband sat, he had played in comedy and tragedy, pleaded
+causes, had taken his part in concerts, and danced at balls, under its
+several revolutions, its different political phases of a theatre, a
+court of justice, a concert and a ball-room. Exactly similar to this was
+the fate of the churches, palaces, and the houses of individuals under
+Napoleon, which were alternately barracks, hospitals, stables, courts of
+justice, <i>caffés, restaurats</i>, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The penal code of the late Emperor breathes throughout a spirit of
+humanity, which must astonish every one acquainted with his character.
+The punishment of death, which, according to Blackstone, may be
+inflicted by the English law in one hundred and sixty different
+offences, is now in France confined to the very highest crimes only; the
+number of which does not exceed twelve. A minute attention has been
+paid to the different degrees of guilt in the commission of the same
+crime; and according to these, the punishments are as accurately
+proportioned as the cases will permit. One species of capital punishment
+has been ordained instead of that multitude of cruel and barbarous
+deaths which were marshalled in terrible array along the columns of the
+former code. This punishment is decapitation. The only exception to this
+is in the case of parricide, in which, previous to decapitation, the
+right hand is cut off; and in the punishment for high-treason, in which
+the prisoner is made to walk barefoot, and with a crape veil over his
+head to the scaffold, where he is beheaded. Torture was abolished by
+Louis XVI., and has never afterwards been resumed.</p>
+
+<p>After Napoleon had it in view to form a new code for France, he was at
+great pains to collect together the most upright and honourable, as well
+as the most able amongst the French lawyers; the principal members of
+whom were Tronchet, one of the counsel who spoke boldly and openly in
+defence of the unfortunate Louis XVI., Portalis, Malville, and Bigot de
+Preameneau. Under such superintendance, the work was finished in a short
+time.</p>
+
+<p>The trial by jury has been for some time established in France; but the
+Emperor, dreading that so admirable an institution, if managed with an
+impartial hand might, in too serious a manner, impose restraint upon his
+individual despotism, took particular care to subject those crimes,
+which he dreaded might arise out of the feelings of the public, to the
+cognisance of special tribunals. All trials originating out of the
+conscription, are placed under the care of a special court, composed of
+a certain number of the criminal judges and military officers. In
+France, there is no grand jury; but its place is supplied by that which
+they have denominated the <i>Juré d'Accusation</i>. This is a court composed
+of a few members amongst the civil judges, assisted by the
+Procureur-General or Attorney-General. Their juries for the trial of
+criminals are selected from much higher classes in society than with us
+in England; a circumstance the effect of absolute necessity, owing to
+the extreme ignorance of the middling ranks and the lower classes. In
+the conducting of criminal trials, the manner of procedure is in a great
+measure different from our English form. A criminal, when first
+apprehended, is carried, before the magistrate of the town, generally
+the Mayor. He there undergoes repeated examinations; all the witnesses,
+are summoned and examined, in a manner similar to the precognitions
+taken before the Sheriff of Scotland, and the whole process is nearly as
+tedious as upon the trial. All the papers and declarations are then sent
+with the accused, to the <i>Juré d'Accusation</i>, who also thoroughly
+examine the prisoner and the witnesses; if grounds are found for the
+trial, the papers are immediately laid before the "<i>Cour d'Assize</i>."
+Before this court, the prisoner is again specially examined by its
+president. His former declarations are compared and confronted with his
+present answers, and the strongest evidence against him, is often in
+this manner extracted from his own story. It might certainly be
+imagined, that with all these precautions, it would be scarcely possible
+that the guilty should escape. The very contrary is the case, and I have
+been informed by some of the ablest lawyers in the courts here, that out
+of ten prisoners, really guilty, six haves good chance of getting clear
+off. They ascribe this to two principal causes, 1st, That the
+proceedings become so extremely tedious and intricate, that it is
+impossible for the jury to keep them all in their recollection, and
+that, forgetting the general tenor of the evidence, they suffer the
+last impressions, those made by the counsel for the prisoner, to bias
+their judgment, and to regulate their verdict. In the 2d place, It is
+customary for the president of the court to enter into a long
+examination and cross-examination of the prisoner, (assisted and
+prompted in his questions by the rest of the judges), in a severe and
+peremptory style, and what is too often the case with the judge, in his
+anxiety to condemn, to identify himself with the public prosecutor. He
+appears, in the eye of the jury, more in the light of an interested
+individual, anxious to drag the offender in the most summary manner to
+the punishment of the law, than as an upright and unbiassed judge, whose
+duty it is coolly to consider the whole case, to weigh the evidence of
+the respective witnesses, to consider, with benevolent attention, the
+defence of the prisoner, and, after all this, to pronounce, with
+authoritative impartiality, the sentence of the law. This naturally
+prejudices the jury in favour of the prisoner; and few, even in our own
+country, who may have been witness to the common routine of our criminal
+procedure, will not themselves have felt that immediate and irresistible
+impression, which is made upon the mind of the spectator, when he sees
+on one side the solemn array of the court, the judges, the officers, and
+all the terrible show of justice; and on the other, the trembling,
+solitary, unbefriended criminal, who awaits in silence the sentence of
+the law. One difference, however, between the effects produced by the
+respective criminal codes of France and England, ought to be here
+remarked. In England, owing to the principles and practice of our
+criminal law, it too frequently happens, that the most open and
+notorious criminals escape, whilst the less able, but more innocent
+offenders, those who might be easily reclaimed, who have gone little way
+in the road of crime, but who are less able to do themselves justice at
+their trial, fall an easy sacrifice to the rigour of our criminal code.
+In France, owing to the custom of the cross-examinations of the
+prisoner, by the president and the different judges, this can never
+happen. The notoriety of his character prevents the common feelings of
+compassion in the breasts of the jury; the severity of the
+interrogations renders it impossible that any fictitious story, when
+confronted with his former examinations before the magistrate and the
+<i>Juré d'Accusation</i>, can long hold together, and he is, in this manner,
+generally convicted by the evidence extracted from his own mouth upon
+the trial.</p>
+
+<p>The present style of French pleading is exactly what we might be led to
+expect from the peculiar state of manners, and the particular character
+of that singular people. It is infinitely further removed from dry legal
+ratiocination, and much more allied to real eloquence, than any thing we
+met with in England. Any one who is acquainted with the natural inborn
+fluency in conversation of every individual whom he meets in France, may
+be able to form some idea of the astonishing command of words in a set
+of men who are bred to public speaking. One bad effect arises from this,
+which is, that if the counsel is not a man of ability, this amazing
+volubility, which is found equally in all, serves more to weaken than to
+convince; for the little sense there may be, is spread over so wide a
+surface, or is diluted with such a dose of verbiage, that the whole
+becomes tasteless and insipid to the last degree. But this fluency, on
+the other hand, in the hands of a man of talents and genius, is a most
+powerful weapon. It hurries you along with a velocity which, from its
+very rapidity, is delightful; and where it cannot convince, it amuses,
+fascinates, and overpowers you.</p>
+
+<p>One thing struck me as remarkable in the French form of trial, which
+perhaps might be with benefit adopted by England. All exceptions and
+challenges to jurymen are made in private, and not, as with us, in open
+court. This is a more delicate method, and no man's character can suffer
+(as is sometimes the case in England) by being rejected. The trial by
+jury is very far from being popular in France; indeed, upon an average I
+have heard more voices against it than advocates for its continuance.
+The great cause for this dissatisfaction is that which leads to various
+other calamitous consequences in that kingdom,&mdash;the want of public
+spirit in France.&mdash;The French have literally no idea of any duties which
+they must voluntarily, without the prospect of reward, undertake for
+their country. It never enters their heads that a man may be responsible
+for the neglect of those public duties, for the performance of which he
+receives no regular salary.&mdash;There is a constant connection in their
+minds, between business and payment, between money and obligation: and
+as for that noble and patriotic spirit which will undergo any labour
+from a disinterested sense of public duty, it is long since any such
+feeling has existed, and it will probably, if things continue in their
+present state, be long before it will exist again in France.</p>
+
+<p>It might be imagined, from the advantages in the administration of
+criminal justice, that France was in this respect equal, if not superior
+to Britain.&mdash;This, however, is by no means the case. The written
+criminal code of France is indeed apparently more humane, and the civil
+code less intricate and voluminous than with us in England. But there is
+a wide and striking difference between this code, drawn up with all the
+luminousness of speculative benevolence, and the manner in which the
+same code is carried into execution: What signifies the purity of the
+code, if the executive part of the system, the nomination of the judges,
+the direction of the sentences, and the reversal of the whole
+proceedings, was submitted to the power, and constituted part of the
+iron prerogative, of a despotic Sovereign. It was the constant practice
+of the late Emperor to appoint, whenever it was necessary for the
+accomplishment of his own ends, what he denominated a <span class="smcap">cour prevoitale</span>&mdash;a
+species of court consisting of judges of his own selection, who, with
+summary procedure, condemned or acquitted, according to the pleasure of
+its master. Not only was this court erected, which was in every respect
+under the controul of the Emperor, but by means of his police
+emissaries, of those pensioned spies whom he insinuated into all the
+offices, and the remotest branches of the political administration, he
+contrived to overawe the different judges, to keep them in perpetual
+fear of the loss of their official situation, and in this manner to beat
+down the evidence, to bias the sentence, and finally, to direct the
+verdict. The judicial situations became latterly so completely under the
+influence of the creatures of the Court, that I was informed by the
+lawyers, that no judge was sure of remaining for two months in his
+official situation.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the important subject of criminal delinquency, I am sorry to say
+the only information I contrived to collect was extremely
+unsatisfactory. I had been promised, by an intelligent barrister, with
+whom I had the good fortune to become acquainted, a detailed opinion
+upon the state of criminal delinquency in France; but in the meantime
+Napoleon landed from Elba, and my friend was called away from his civil
+duties to join the national guard, who were marched, when it was too
+late, in pursuit of Bonaparte.</p>
+
+<p>From the calendar of crimes, however, which I had the opportunity of
+examining at the Aix assizes, as well as from the decided opinion of
+many of the lawyers there, I should be induced to hazard the opinion,
+that the crimes of robbery, burglary, and murder, are infinitely less
+frequent than in England. The great cause of this is undoubtedly to be
+attributed to the excellence of their police. Wherever such a preventive
+as the system of Espionage, and that carried to the perfection which we
+find it possessing in that country, exists, it is impossible that the
+greater crimes should be found to any alarming decree. There is a power,
+a vigour and an omnipresence in this effective police, which can check
+every criminal excess before it has attained any thing like a general or
+rooted influence throughout the kingdom; and its power, under the
+administration of Napoleon, was exerted to an excessive degree in
+France. Such a mode, however, of diminishing the catalogue of crimes,
+could exist only under a state of things which the inhabitants of a free
+country would not suffer for a moment; and indeed, to anyone possessing
+but the faintest idea of what liberty is, there is something in the idea
+of a system of espionage which is dreadful. It is like some of those
+dark and gigantic dæmons, embodied by the genius of fiction, the form of
+which you cannot trace, although you feel its presence, which stalks
+about enveloped in congenial gloom, and whose iron grasp falls upon you
+the more terrible, because it is unsuspected. Fortunately such a monster
+can never be met with in a free country. It shuns the pure, and
+untainted atmosphere of liberty, and its lungs will only play with
+freedom in the foul and thick air of a decided despotism.</p>
+
+<p>The effects of this system of espionage, in destroying every thing upon
+which individual happiness in society depends; the free and unrestrained
+communication of opinion between friends, and even the confidence of
+domestic society, can hardly be conceived by any one who has lived in a
+free country. Upon this subject, I had an opportunity of conversing with
+a most respectable and intelligent British merchant, who, previous to
+the revolution, had been a partner in a banking-house in the French
+metropolis; and afterwards had the misfortune of being kept a prisoner
+in Paris for the last twelve years. The accounts he gave us regarding
+the excessive rigour of the police, and the jealousy of every thing like
+intercourse, were truly terrible. It had become a maxim in Paris, an
+axiom whose truth was proved by the general practice and conduct of its
+inhabitants, to believe every third person a spy. Any matter of moment,
+any thing bordering upon confidential communication, was alone to be
+trusted <i>entre quatre yeux</i>. The servants in every family, it was well
+known, were universally in the pay of government. They could not be
+hired till they produced their licenses, and these licenses, to serve as
+domestics, they all procured from the office of the police. From that
+office their wages were as certain, and probably (if the information
+they conveyed was of importance), more regularly paid than those they
+received from their masters. Even, therefore, in the most secret
+retirement of your own family, you could never speak with perfect
+freedom. Mr B&mdash;&mdash;, the gentleman above mentioned, informed me, that
+before he dared to mention, even to his wife or family, any subject
+connected with the affairs of the day, or when they wished to speak
+freely and unrestrainedly upon any point whatever, every corner of the
+room was first examined, the chinks of the doors, and the walls of the
+adjoining apartments underwent a similar scrutiny; and even then they
+did not dare to introduce any subject which was nearly connected with
+the political government of the country.</p>
+
+<p>A lawyer, who lived upon the same floor with this gentleman, was
+astonished, one morning, by the entry of the police officers into his
+room at four in the morning, without the slightest previous warning.
+They pulled him out of bed&mdash;hurried him away to the police office, kept
+him in strict custody for several days, seized all his papers; and
+having at last discovered that their suspicions were ill-founded, and
+that he had been secured upon erroneous information, he was brought back
+to his lodgings by the same hands, and in the same summary manner in
+which he had been removed; and he is to this day ignorant of the cause
+of his detention, or the nature of the offence of which he had been
+suspected.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the few English who, along with Mr B. were detained in Paris, it
+was naturally to be expected, that the precautions taken to deceive the
+police, and to prevent the suspicion of any secret intercourse, were
+still more severe and rigorous than were used by the native French. As
+the subjects of this country, they naturally became the objects of
+continual suspicion, and were more strictly watched than any other
+persons. They contrived, however, to procure, although at distant
+intervals, the sight of an English newspaper. Nine or ten months
+frequently elapsed without their receiving any intelligence from
+England. When they had the good fortune to procure one, the precautions
+necessary to be adopted were hardly to be believed. The same gentleman
+informed me, that upon receiving an English paper, he did not venture to
+mention the circumstance even to his wife and children, lest, in their
+joy, some incautious words might have escaped from them before the
+servants of the family, in which case, detection would have been
+immediate, and imprisonment inevitable. Keeping it, therefore, entirely
+to himself, he concealed it from every eye during the day, and at night,
+after the family had gone to bed, he sat up, lighted his taper, and,
+when every thing was still and silent about him, ventured, only then, to
+read over the paper, and to get by heart the most important parts of the
+intelligence regarding England; and he afterwards transmitted the
+invaluable present to some secret friend, who, in the same manner, dared
+only to peruse it at midnight, and with the same precautions.</p>
+
+<p>A very sensible distinction has been made in the French code, in the
+difference of punishment which is inflicted upon robbery, when it has or
+has not been accompanied by murder; and the consequence of such
+distinction is, that in that country the most determined robberies are
+seldom, as they often are with us, accompanied with murder; whilst the
+accurate proportionment of punishment to the crimes, encourages persons
+possessing information to come forward, and removes those natural
+scruples which all must feel, when they reflect that they may be the
+chief instruments in bringing down a capital penalty upon the head of an
+individual, whose trivial offence was in no respect deserving of this
+last and severest punishment of the law.</p>
+
+<p>The crime of which I heard most frequently, and of which the common
+occurrence may be traced to the miserable condition to which trade and
+commerce were, during the last few years, reduced in France, and to that
+general laxity of moral conduct which even now distinguishes that
+country, was <i>Fraudulent Bankruptcy</i>. The merchant, no longer possessing
+the means of making his fortune by fair speculation, has recourse to
+this nefarious mode of bettering his condition. He settles with his
+creditors for a small per centage; disposes of his property by
+fictitious sales, <i>ventes simulees</i>, and thus enriches himself upon the
+ruin of his creditors. At a small town in the south of France, where I
+for sometime resided, there were several individuals, who, it was well
+known, had made their fortunes in this manner; and at Marseilles it
+had, as I understood, become in some measure a common practice. The
+crime is seldom discovered, attended at least with those circumstances
+of corroborative evidence which are necessary in bringing it to trial.
+Upon detection, accompanied by complete proof, the punishment is severe.
+It consists in being condemned for fourteen years, or for life, to the
+galleys, and in branding the delinquent with letters denoting his crime:
+<i>B F</i> for Fraudulent Bankruptcy. At one of the trials of the Aix
+assizes, at which I was present, a young man of excellent family, son of
+the Chevalier de St Louis, was convicted of this crime, and although it
+was proved that he had been deceived by his partner, a man of decidedly
+bad character, but possessed of deep cunning, he was condemned for
+fourteen years to the galleys: Owing to a flaw in the process, the
+sentence was set aside by the Cour de Cassation, or Supreme Court of
+Appeal at Paris, and a new trial was ordered.</p>
+
+<p>From the same cause, which I have mentioned above, the perfection of
+their police, petty theft is not of such common occurrence in France as
+in England. The country, in short, at the time when we passed through
+it, was very quiet, and few crimes were committed; but on the
+disbanding of the troops, a great change may be expected. These restless
+creatures must find work, or they will make it for themselves. It is a
+hard question how the un-warlike Louis is to employ them. Many talk of
+the necessity of sending an immense force to St Domingo; and it would
+appear wise policy to devise some expedition of this nature, which would
+swallow up the restless, the profligate, and the abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>It is not our intention, nor indeed would the limits of our work permit,
+of entering into the question of what ought to be the conduct of the
+King. But there is another question, from answering which we can
+scarcely escape.</p>
+
+<p>Are the majority of the French nation well affected to the Bourbons?
+This is a question which is put to every person who returns from France.
+It is a natural, a most important, but a most difficult one to answer. I
+endeavoured, by every method in my power, by a communication with those
+gentlemen of the province where I resided, whose characters and
+situations entitled them to implicit credit; by endeavouring to satisfy
+myself as to the real sentiments of the peasantry, and by a perusal of
+those documents regarding the state of the country, which were believed
+the most authentic, to acquire upon this subject something like
+satisfactory information. As to the sentiments entertained at present by
+the generality of the French people upon this subject, I cannot speak,
+but with regard to the period which I passed in France, which began in
+November 1814, and ended at the time of the landing of Napoleon from
+Elba, I have no hesitation in declaring, that it appeared to me, that
+the majority of the French nation were at that time hostile to the
+interests of the Bourbons. On the other hand, in consulting the same
+sources of information as I have above enumerated, it was as evident
+that they are not generally favourable to the restoration of the
+Imperial Government under Napoleon. What appeared at that period to be
+the general desire of the nation, was the establishment of a new
+constitution, formed upon those principles, embracing those new
+interests, and compatible with that new state of things which had been
+created by the revolution. It was on this account that they favoured
+Napoleon.</p>
+
+<p>The situation of France then exhibited perhaps one of the most singular
+pictures ever presented to view by a civilized nation; a people without
+exterior commerce, and whose interior trade and manufactures, except in
+some favourite spots, was almost annihilated; whose youth was yearly
+drained off to supply the army, but whose agriculture has been
+constantly improving, which, for the last twelve years, had been
+subjected to all the complicated horrors of a state of war, but which,
+after all this, could yet earnestly desire a continuance of this state.
+A nation where there was scarcely to be found an intermediate rank
+between the Sovereign and the peasantry&mdash;for since the destruction of
+the <i>ancienne noblesse</i>, and more particularly, since all ranks have
+been admitted to a participation in the dignities conferred on the
+military, all have become equally aspiring, and all consider themselves
+upon the same level:&mdash;A nation where, notwithstanding the division into
+parties, possessing the most opposite interests and opinions, and
+pulling every different way, the greater part certainly desired a
+government similar to Napoleon's, and would even unite to obtain it:&mdash;A
+nation who talked of nothing but liberty, and yet suffered themselves to
+be subjected to the conscription, to the loss of their trade, to the
+severest taxes, the greatest personal deprivations, and the most
+complete restraint in the expression of their opinions&mdash;to the continued
+extortions of a military chief, the most despotic who ever reigned in a
+European country, and whose acts of oppression are truly Asiatic; and
+who tamely bore all this oppression, supported by their national vanity,
+because they wish to bear the name <i>of the great people</i>: Great, because
+their ambition is unbounded; great as a nation of rapacious and
+blood-thirsty soldiers; great in every species of immorality and vice!
+Who, led away by this miserable vanity, have been false to their oaths,
+so recently pledged to a mild and virtuous prince, very unfit to rule
+such a race of villains, because he is mild and virtuous.</p>
+
+<p>But it is not generally believed, that the majority in France favoured
+Napoleon, though it is but a natural consequence of the state of the
+country; I shall therefore enumerate the divisions of ranks, and the
+sentiments of each.&mdash;All allow that the army were his friends; on that
+subject, therefore, I shall say nothing.&mdash;Next to the army, let us look
+to the civil authorities.&mdash;All these were in his favour&mdash;all that part
+of the civil authorities at least, who have the immediate management of
+the people.&mdash;It is in vain that the heads of office in Paris, the
+miserable bodies styled the Chambers of Parliament and the Counsellors
+of the realm, were favourably inclined towards the King.&mdash;Napoleon well
+knew that these were not the men who rule France.&mdash;France, as an entire
+kingdom, may be said to be governed by these men; but France,
+subdivided, is governed by the prefects, and the gens-d'armes of
+Napoleon.&mdash;Not a man of these was displaced by the King, and although
+they were all furious in their proclamations against the usurper, they,
+with few exceptions, joined him, and these few exceptions were removed
+by him.&mdash;The most powerful men in France under Napoleon were these
+prefects and gens-d'armes, and knowing their power, he was always
+cautious in their selection; wherever he conceived that they really
+favoured the Bourbon interest, he removed them.</p>
+
+<p>Next, the whole class of Receveurs were his devoted friends.&mdash;These men
+were all continued in place under the un-warlike reign of Louis, but
+where no conscription and no droits reunis were to be enforced, they had
+poverty staring them in the face.&mdash;Is it unnatural that they should
+favour him whose government enriches them?</p>
+
+<p>To the shadows of nobility, to the ghost of aristocracy which had
+re-appeared under the King, no power or influence can be
+attributed,&mdash;they dared not think, and could not act.</p>
+
+<p>The better classes of the inhabitants of the cities, whether the traders
+and manufacturers, or the bourgeoise of France, are those who were the
+most decided enemies of Bonaparte: but let us look how their arm is
+weakened and palsied by the situation of their property.&mdash;They have many
+of them purchased the lands of the emigrants at very low prices, and, in
+many instances, from persons who could only bestow possession without
+legal tenure.&mdash;These feel uneasy in their new possessions; they dread
+the ascendancy which the nobility might still obtain under their lawful
+Sovereign: Napoleon came proclaiming to them that he would maintain them
+in their properties. Nor were all the traders and manufacturers his
+enemies.&mdash;He encouraged the trade of Lyons, for example, of Paris, of
+Rouen, and other interior towns, and he pitted these interior towns
+against the sea-ports of Bourdeaux, Marseilles, &amp;c. Thus, even with
+commercial men, he had some friends.&mdash;And here, in mentioning Paris, I
+must observe, that the most slavish deference is paid by the whole of
+France to the opinions, as well as the fashions, which prevail at the
+capital. From the encouragement which he offered to its interior trade,
+from the grand works which he was constantly carrying on, affording
+labour to the idle rabble; from the magnificent <i>spectacles</i> supplied by
+his reviews, fetes, and festivities, and most of all, from the
+celebrated system of gulling and stage-trick, practised by his police,
+and through the medium of the press&mdash;From all these circumstances, it
+arises, that Napoleon was no where so much beloved as at Paris; and
+Napoleon took good care that Paris afforded to all France an example
+such as he would wish them to follow.&mdash;It is difficult to say why the
+French should tamely follow the example of their despot; but they forgot
+that he was a despot, and they were not singular as a nation in
+following the example <i>of their chief</i>, though, perhaps, they carried
+their obedience to a more slavish pitch than any other people.&mdash;"En
+France (says Mons. Montesquieu) il en est des manieres et de la facon de
+vivre, comme des modes, les Français changent des meurs selon l'age de
+leur Roi,&mdash;Le Monarque pouvait meme parvenir a rendre la nation grave
+s'il l'avait entrepris."</p>
+
+<p>Next in rank, though, from their numbers and influence, perhaps, after
+the army, the most powerful body in the community, the situation of the
+peasants must be considered. They had either seized upon, or purchased,
+at a low rate, the lands of the emigrants, and the national domains;
+these they had brought into the best state of cultivation; without the
+interference of any one, they directly drew the profits. The oppression
+in agriculture, which existed before the revolution, whether from the
+authority of the Seigneurs, from the corvees, from tythes, game laws,
+&amp;c. all are done away&mdash;become rich and flourishing, they are able to pay
+the taxes, which, under Napoleon, were not so severe as is generally
+supposed.&mdash;But they had every thing to fear from the return of the
+noblesse, and from the re-establishment of the ranks and order which
+must exist under the new constitution of France. Can it then be
+considered that the peasantry should see their own interest in
+maintaining the revolutionary order of things? The more unjust their
+tenure, the more cause have they to fear; and unenlightened as many of
+them are, their fears once raised, will not easily be controlled.
+Napoleon had most politically excited alarm among them, and they are
+favourably inclined towards him. This powerful body have no leaders to
+direct them: The respectable and wealthy farmer, possessing great landed
+property; the yeoman, the country gentleman,&mdash;all these ranks are
+abolished. Where the views of the Sovereign are inimical to the
+peasantry, as was imagined under Louis XVIII. that body will powerfully
+resist him; where they were in concert, as under Napoleon, that body
+became his chief support next to his military force.</p>
+
+<p>It is not enough that Louis XVIII. had never invaded their property&mdash;it
+is not enough that in different shapes he issued proclamations, and
+assurances, that he had no such intentions,&mdash;the peasantry felt
+insecure; and they dreaded the influence of his counsellors, and of the
+noblesse. The low rabble of France, at all times restless, and desirous
+of change, were favourable to Napoleon;&mdash;they wished for a continuance
+of that thoughtless dissipation, and dreadful immorality, which he
+encouraged; they wished for employment in his public works,&mdash;they looked
+for situations in his army.</p>
+
+<p>It may then be said, that among all ranks Napoleon had friends. Who then
+were against him? All those who wished for peace: all those who desired
+the re-establishment of the church: all those who had the cause of
+morality and virtue at heart&mdash;all the good,&mdash;but, alas! in France, they
+were few in number.</p>
+
+<p>I have only enumerated the great and leading parties in the community.
+It was my intention to have touched on the sentiments of the different
+professions, but I have been already too tedious; I shall here only
+enumerate a few of the classes, who, as they are thrown out of bread by
+the return of the Bourbons, and the new system of government, will be
+ever busily employed in favouring a despotic and military government, a
+continuance of war, and of a conscription.</p>
+
+<p>1st, All the prefects, collectors of taxes, and their agents, who were
+employed in the countries subjected to Napoleon.</p>
+
+<p>2d, The many officers, and under agents, employed in the conscription,
+and in collecting the droits reunis.</p>
+
+<p>3d, The police emissaries of all ranks, forming that enormous mass who
+conducted the grand machine of espionage, directed the <i>public spirit</i>,
+and supplied information to the late Emperor.</p>
+
+<p>4th, All the rich and wealthy army contractors, furnishers, &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Having attempted to shew that the situation of the people in France was
+highly favourable to the views of the usurper, let me now observe, that
+there are other circumstances which greatly aided his cause.</p>
+
+<p>1st, The vanity of the nation was hurt: they had not forgotten their
+defeat by the allies, and the proceedings of Congress, in confining
+within narrow bounds, that nation, who, but a year ago, gave laws to the
+continent, had tended to aggravate their feelings. It is difficult for
+any nation to shrink at once into insignificance, from the possession of
+unlimited power; it is impossible for France to maintain an inglorious
+peace.</p>
+
+<p>2d, The spirit of the nation had become completely military. One year of
+peace cannot be supposed to have done away the effects of twelve years
+of victory.</p>
+
+<p>3d, The general laxity of morals, and the habits of dissipation and
+idleness, which have followed from the revolution, and have been taught
+by the military, and especially by the disbanded soldiers, were
+favourable to him.</p>
+
+<p>4th, He came at the very time when his prisoners had returned from all
+quarters of the globe; he came again to unite them under the <i>revered
+eagle</i>, emblem of rapine and plunder, which they everywhere looked up
+to; in short, if it had been suggested to any one, possessing a thorough
+knowledge of the situation of France, to say at what time Napoleon was
+most likely to succeed, he must have pitched on the moment selected by
+him. There are indeed many circumstances which induce me to suppose,
+that the plan for his restoration had been partly formed before he left
+Fontainbleau; for it is well known, that he long hesitated&mdash;that he
+often thought of making use of his remaining force, (a force of about
+thirty thousand men), and fighting his way to Italy; that his Marshals
+only prevailed on him, and that he yielded to their advice, when he
+might have thought and acted for himself. The conduct of Ney favours the
+supposition: he selected for him the spot, of all others, the most
+favourable for his views, should they be directed to Italy; he
+stipulated for his rank, for a guard of veterans; he is described as
+using a boldness and insolence of speech to Napoleon, which he would not
+have dared to use, had there not been an understanding between them. He
+covered his treachery by a garb of the same nature, when in presence of
+his lawful Sovereign: open in his abuse of the usurper, while laying
+plans to join him.</p>
+
+<p>There is a very peculiar circumstance in Bonaparte's character, which
+is, that at times, he makes the most unguarded speeches, forgetful of
+his own interest. Thus, when the national guard of Lyons begged
+permission to accompany him on his march, he said to them, "You have
+suffered the brother of your King to leave you unattended&mdash;go&mdash;you are
+unworthy to follow me." Thus, when at Frejus, he said to the Mayor,&mdash;"I
+am sorry that Frejus is in Provence; I hate Provence, but I have always
+wished your town well; and, <i>ere long, I will be among you again</i>." This
+speech, which I had from the Prefect of Aix, who was intimately attached
+to Napoleon and his interests, I know to be authentic. In it, even the
+place of his landing seemed to be determined. One thing is certain, that
+the plan, if not commenced before his abdication, was, at all events,
+begun immediately after; for a long time must have been necessary to
+arrange matters in such a manner that he should not find the slightest
+opposition in his march to Paris.</p>
+
+<p>I have thus attempted to give my readers some account of the state of
+France under Napoleon. From this account, hastily written, they will
+draw their own conclusions. Mine, attached as I am to one party; knowing
+little of politics, only interested as a Briton in the fate of my
+country, are these:&mdash;That France decidedly wishes to live by war and
+plunder&mdash;that France deserves no such government as that of the virtuous
+Louis&mdash;that, till the soldiery are disbanded, and their leaders
+punished, France can never be governed by the Bourbons:&mdash;that the
+majority in the nation do not wish for Napoleon in particular, but for a
+revolutionary government, and that we have no right of interference with
+their choice: but that the propriety of our immediately engaging in war
+could not be doubted, for our very existence as a nation depended on
+such conduct&mdash;that we had the same right to attack Bonaparte, as we had
+to attack a common robber, more particularly, if this robber had
+repeatedly planned and devised the destruction of our property.</p>
+
+<p>They will draw the happiest conclusions in favour of our own blessed
+country, from a comparison with France&mdash;looking on that unhappy nation,
+they will exclaim with me, in the beautiful words of La Harpe:
+<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a>"J'excuse et n'envie point ceux qui peuvent vivre comme s'ils
+n'avoient ni souffert ni vu souffrir; mais qu'ils me pardonnent de ne
+pouvoir les imiter. Ces jours d'une degradation entière et innouie de
+la nature humaine sont sous mes yeux, pesent sur mon ame et retombent
+sans cesse sous ma plume, destinée à les retraçer jusqu'à mon dernier
+moment."<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_a_V" id="CHAPTER_a_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h3>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+
+<p class="head">MODERN FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.</p>
+
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">A</span><span class="smcap">n</span>
+Englishman never dreams of entering into conversation without some
+previous knowledge upon the point which is the subject of discussion.
+You will pass but few days in France before you will be convinced, that
+to a Frenchman this is not at all necessary. The moment he enters the
+room, or caffé, where a circle may happen to be conversing, he
+immediately takes part in the discussion&mdash;of whatever nature, or upon
+whatever subject that may be, is not of the most distant consequence to
+him. He strikes in with the utmost self-assurance and adroitness,
+maintains a prominent part in the conversation with the most perfect
+plausibility; and although, from his want of accurate information, he
+will rarely instruct, he seldom fails to amuse by the exuberance of his
+fancy, and the rapidity of his elocution. But take any one of his
+sentences to pieces, analyze it, strip it of its gaudy clothing and
+fanciful decorations, and you will be astonished what skeletons of bare,
+shallow, and spiritless ideas will frequently present themselves.</p>
+
+<p>In England, it often happens, that a man who is perfectly master of the
+subject in discussion, from the effect of shyness or embarrassment, will
+convey his information with such an appearance of awkwardness and
+hesitation, as to create a temporary suspicion of dulness, or of
+incapacity. But upon further examination, the true and sterling value of
+his remarks is easily discernible. The same can very seldom be said of a
+Frenchman. His conversation, which delights at the moment, generally
+fades upon recollection. The information of the first is like a
+beautiful gem, whose real value is concealed by the encrustation with
+which it is covered; the other is a dazzling but sorry paste in a
+brilliant setting. <a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a>"Un Français," says M. de Stael, with great
+truth, "scait encore parler, lors meme il n'a point d'idees;" and the
+reason why a Frenchman can do so is, because ideas, which are the
+essential requisites in conversation to any other man, are not so to
+him. He is in possession of many substitutes, composed of a few of those
+set phrases and accommodating sentences which fit into any subject; and
+these, mixed up with appropriate nods, significant gestures, and above
+all, with the characteristic shrugging of the shoulders, are ever ready
+at hand when the tide of his ideas may happen to run shallow.</p>
+
+<p>The perpetual cheerfulness of the French, under almost every situation,
+is well known, and has been repeatedly remarked. One great secret by
+which they contrive to preserve this invariable levity of mind, is
+probably this extraordinary talent of theirs for a particular kind of
+conversation. An Englishman, engaged in the business and duties of life,
+even at his hours of relaxation, is occupied in thinking upon them. In
+the midst of company he is often an insulated being; his mind, refusing
+intercourse with those around him, retires within itself. In this manner
+he inevitably becomes, even in his common hours, grave and serious, and
+if under misfortunes, perhaps melancholy and morose. A Frenchman is in
+every respect a different being: He cannot be grave or unhappy, because
+he never allows himself time to become so. His mind is perpetually
+busied with the affairs of the moment. If he is in company, he speaks,
+without introduction, to every gentleman in the room. Any thing, the
+most trivial, serves him for a hook on which to hang his story; and this
+generally lasts as long as he has breath to carry him on. He recounts to
+you, the first hour you meet with him, his whole individual history;
+diverges into anecdotes about his relations, pulls out his watch, and
+under the cover shews you the hair of his mistress, apostrophizes the
+curl&mdash;opens his pocket-book, insists upon your reading his letters to
+her, sings you the song which he composed when he was <i>au desespoir</i> at
+their parting, asks your opinion of it, then whirls off to a discussion
+on the nature of love; leaves that the next moment to philosophize upon
+friendship, compliments you, <i>en passant</i>, and claims you for his
+friend; hopes that the connection will be perpetual, and concludes by
+asking you <i>to do him the honour of telling him your name</i>. In this
+manner he is perpetually occupied; he has a part to act which renders
+serious thought unnecessary, and silence impossible. If he has been
+unfortunate, he recounts his distresses, and in doing so, forgets them.
+His mind never reposes for a moment upon itself; his secret is to keep
+it in perpetual motion, and, like a shuttlecock, to whip it back and
+forward with such rapidity, that although its feathers may have been
+ruffled, and its gilding effaced by many hard blows, yet neither you nor
+he have time to discover it.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing can present a stronger contrast between the French and English
+character, and nothing evinces more clearly the superiority of the
+French in conversation, and the art of amusement, than the scenes which
+take place in the interior of a French diligence. They who go to France
+and travel in their own carriages are not aware of what they lose.&mdash;The
+interior of a French diligence, if you are tolerably fortunate in your
+company, is a perfect epitome of the French nation.&mdash;When you enter a
+public coach in England, it is certainly very seldom that, in the course
+of the few hours you may remain in it, you meet with an entertaining
+companion. Chance, indeed, may now and then throw a pleasant man in your
+way; but these are but thinly sown amongst those sour and silent
+gentlemen, who are your general associates, and who, now and then eyeing
+each other askance, look as if they could curse themselves for being
+thrown into such involuntary contiguity.</p>
+
+<p>The scene in a French diligence is the most different from all this that
+can be conceived. Every thing there is life, and motion, and joy.&mdash;The
+coach generally holds from ten to twelve persons, and even then is
+sufficiently roomy.&mdash;The moment you enter you find yourself on terms of
+the most perfect familiarity with the whole set of your travelling
+companions. In an instant every tongue is at work, and every individual
+bent upon making themselves happy for the moment, and contributing to
+the happiness of their fellow travellers. Talking, joking, laughing,
+singing, reciting,&mdash;every enjoyment which is light and pleasurable is
+instantly adopted.&mdash;A gentleman takes a box from his pocket, opens it,
+and with a look of the most finished politeness, presents it, full of
+sweetmeats, to the different ladies in succession. One of these, in
+gratitude for this attention, proposes that which she well knows will be
+agreeable to the whole party, some species of round game like our
+cross-purposes, involving forfeits. The proposal is carried by
+acclamation,&mdash;the game is instantly begun, and every individual is
+included: Woe be now to the aristocracy of the interior! Old and young,
+honest and dishonest, respectable and disrespectable, all are involved
+in undistinguished confusion&mdash;but all are content to be so, and happy in
+the exchange. The game in the meantime proceeds, and the different
+forfeits become more numerous. The generality of these ensure, indeed,
+from their nature, a punctuality of performance. To kiss the handsomest
+woman in the party, to pay her a compliment in some extempore effusion,
+or to whisper a confidence (<i>faire une confidence</i>) in her ear&mdash;all
+these are hardly enjoined before they are happily accomplished. But
+others, which it would be difficult to particularize, are more amusing
+in their consequences, and less easy, in their execution.</p>
+
+<p>The ludicrous effect of this scene is much heightened by its being often
+carried on in the dark, for night brings no cessation; and we have
+ourselves, in travelling in this manner in the diligence, engaged in
+many a game of forfeits where, it is not too much to say, that our
+play-fellows, of both sexes, were certainly nearer to the grave than
+the cradle, being somewhere between fifty and fourscore. The scenes
+which then take place, the undistinguished clamours of young and old,
+the audible salutes from every quarter, which point to the perpetual
+succession of the forfeits, altogether compose a spectacle, which to a
+stranger is the most unexpected and extraordinary that can be possibly
+imagined.</p>
+
+<p>The conversation of a Frenchman, who possesses wit and information, is
+certainly superior to that of a clever man of any other country. It has
+a variety and playfulness, which, upon subjects of taste or fancy, or
+literature, delights and fascinates; but even their common conversation
+upon the most trivial matters is of a superior order, as far as
+amusement goes. However shallowly they may think upon a subject, they
+never fail to express themselves well. This is the case equally with
+those of both sexes. It is true, certainly, that in their subjects for
+conversation, they indulge in a wider range of selection; and in
+consequence, far more frequently without evincing the slightest scruple,
+overstep the bounds of decorum and delicacy. This is the inevitable
+effect of the peculiarity above noticed, that they must constantly
+converse; as their appetite for conversation is inordinate, their taste
+is necessarily less nice; provided they continue in motion, they are
+careless about the ground over which they travel. One unhappy
+consequence of this certainly is, that such carelessness extends to the
+women, even amongst the highest and best bred classes; and that these
+ideas of delicacy and tenderness, with which we are always accustomed to
+regard, in this country, the female mind, are shocked and grated against
+by the occurrence of scenes, the employment of expressions, and the
+mention of books which tend rather to disgust than to amuse, and which
+destroy in a moment that female fascination, which can never exist
+without that first and most material ingredient, modesty.</p>
+
+<p>The science of conversation in France, is not, as with us, confined
+principally to the higher classes, but extends to the whole body of the
+people. The reason is, that the lower ranks in that country invariably
+imitate the manners, style of society, and mode of conversation used by
+the higher orders. The lower ranks in England converse, no doubt; but
+then their conversation, and the subjects upon which it is employed, is
+exactly fitted to the rank they hold in society.</p>
+
+<p>In speaking of the literature of France, we shall have occasion to
+remark, that there is nothing in that country like an ancient or
+national poetry. This is perhaps not so much to be attributed to the
+excessive ignorance of the peasantry, as to the circumstance, that from
+the French peasantry invariably imitating the manners of the higher
+orders, there is no adaption of the manners of the labouring orders to
+the simple rank they fill in society. The innocence of rural life is
+thus lost. The shepherd, the peasant girl, the rustic labourer, whom you
+meet in France, are all in some measure artificial beings. They express
+themselves to any stranger they meet with ease and politeness, with a
+point and a vivacity which is certainly striking; but which is, of all
+things, the farthest removed from nature: and it is the consequence of
+this interchange which has taken place,&mdash;this imitation of the manners
+of the higher orders by the lower classes of the peasantry&mdash;that we
+shall in vain look for any thing in France like a simple national
+poetry. The truth, the simplicity, the nature, which ought to form it,
+are not to be found amongst any classes of the French people. The poetry
+of France, both ancient and modern, that of Ronsard and Marot, in
+earlier days; and that of Boileau, Racine, Corneille and Voltaire, in
+more modern times, bears the marks of having been formed in the court.
+If, for instance, in Scotland, the lower ranks, the labouring classes,
+like those of France, had transplanted the fictitious manners of the
+higher classes into the innocence of their cottage, or the sequestered
+solitude of their vallies&mdash;where, under such a state of things, could
+there ever have arisen such gifted spirits as Burns, or Ramsay, or
+Ferguson? and where should we have found, that truth, that beauty, that
+genuine nature, in the lives and manners of our peasantry, which has not
+only furnished such poets with some of their finest subjects, but has
+instructed these peasants themselves to pour out, in unpremeditated
+strains, those ancient and beautiful songs, which art and education
+could never have taught them; and which, in the progress of time, have
+formed that unrivalled national poetry, perhaps one of the brightest
+gems in the diadem of Scottish genius. But we must return to France.</p>
+
+<p>The French have been always celebrated for their natural gaiety of
+character. One exception from this is material to be noticed. It must
+strike you the moment you look into the countenances of the soldiery, or
+examine the air and manner of the generality of the lower officers. A
+dark and gloomy expression, if not a suspicious, and often savage
+appearance, is their characteristic feature; and although this is
+disguised by occasional sallies of loud and intemperate mirth, these
+sallies are more like the desperate and reckless exertions of a troop of
+banditti, than the temperate and unpremeditated cheerfulness of a
+regular soldiery. Nor is this look confined entirely to the military.
+The habits of the whole nation are changed; but yet, with all this
+alteration, there remains enough of their characteristic gaiety to
+distinguish them from every other people in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Their excessive frivolity is perhaps even more remarkable than their
+gaiety; they have not sufficient steadiness for the uninterrupted
+avocations of graver life. In the midst of the most serious or deep
+discussion, a Frenchman will suddenly stop, and, with a look of perhaps
+more solemn importance than he bestowed upon the subject of debate, will
+adjust the ruffle of his brother savant, adding some observation on the
+propriety of adorning the exterior as well as the interior of science.
+<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a>"Leur badinage," says Montesquieu, "naturellement fait pour las
+toilettes, semble etre provenu a former le caractere general de la
+nation. On badine au conseil, on badine a la tête d'une armee, on badine
+avec un ambassadeur."</p>
+
+<p>The vanity of the whole nation, it is well known, is without all bounds;
+and although this is most apparent, perhaps, and less unequivocally
+shewn in every point connected with military affairs, it is yet confined
+to no one subject in particular, but embraces all&mdash;in arts, science,
+manufactures; in every thing, indeed, upon which the spirit and genius
+of a nation can be exercised, it is not too much to say, that they
+believe themselves superior to every other nation or country. Nay, what
+is very extraordinary, so much have they been accustomed to hear
+themselves talk in this exaggerated style; so natural to them have now
+become those expressions of arrogant superiority, that vanity has, in
+its adoption into the French character, and in the effects which it
+there produces, almost changed its nature.</p>
+
+<p>In other countries&mdash;in our own, for instance, a very vain man is an
+object of ridicule, and generally of distrust. In France he is neither;
+on the contrary, there appears throughout the kingdom a kind of general
+agreement, a species of silent understood compact amongst them, that
+every thing asserted by one Frenchman to another, provided it is done
+with sufficient confidence and coolness, however individually vain, or
+absolutely incredible, ought to be fully and implicitly believed. It is
+this excessive idea which the French instil into each other of their own
+superiority, joined to the extreme ignorance of the great body of the
+people, which composes that prominent feature in their national
+character&mdash;<i>their credulity</i>&mdash;and which has long rendered them the
+easiest of all nations to be imposed upon by political artifice, and the
+submissive dupes of those travelling quacks and ingenious charlatans,
+who in this country are more than commonly successful in ruining the
+health and impoverishing the pockets of their devoted patients. An
+instance of this occurs to me, which happened to myself when residing in
+the south of France.</p>
+
+<p>At one of the great fairs where I was present, there appeared upon an
+elevated stage, an elderly and serious-looking gentleman, dressed in a
+complete suit of solemn black, with a little child kneeling at his feet.
+"Messieurs," said he to the multitude, and bowing with the most perfect
+confidence and self-possession&mdash;<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>"Messieurs, c'est impossible de
+tromper des gens instruits comme vous. Je vais absolument couper la tête
+a cet-enfant: <i>Mais</i> avant de commencer, il faut que je vous fasse voir
+que je ne suis pas un charlatan. Eh bien, en attendant et pour un espece
+d'exorde: Qui est entre vous qui à le mal au dent?" "Moi," exclaimed
+instantly a sturdy looking peasant, opening his jaws, and disclosing a
+row of grinders which might have defied a shark. "Monsieur, (said the
+doctor, inspecting his gums), it is but too true. The disorders
+attending these small but inestimable members, the teeth, are invariably
+to be traced to a species of worm, and this the most obstinate, as well
+as the most fatal species in the vermicular tribe, which contrives to
+conceal itself at the root of the affected member. Gentlemen, we have
+all our respective antipathies; and it is by means of these that the
+most fatal and unaccountable effects are produced upon us. Worms,
+gentlemen, have also their prevailing antipathies. To subdue the animal,
+we have only to become acquainted with its disposition. The worm, Sir,
+at the bottom of your tooth, is of that faculty or tribe which <i>abhors
+copper</i>. It is the vermis halcomisicus, <i>or copper-hating worm</i>. Upon
+placing this penknife in the solution contained in this bottle,"
+(continued he, holding up a small phial, which contained a
+green-coloured liquid), "it is, you see, immediately changed into
+copper." The patient then, at the doctor's request, approached. A female
+assistant stood between him and the crowd, and in a few minutes the
+tooth was delivered of a worm, which, from its size, might certainly
+have given the toothache to the Dragon of Wantley,</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Who swallow'd the Mayor, asleep in his chair,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And pick'd his teeth with the mace."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The peasant declared he felt no more pain, and the crowd eagerly pressed
+forward, (with the exception, we may believe, of the coppersmiths
+amongst the audience), and purchased the bottles containing this
+invaluable prescription. Before I had left the party, I discovered that
+the doctor, previously to the performing another trick, had borrowed
+from the crowd a gold piece of twenty francs, two pieces of five francs,
+a silver watch, and several smaller articles, nor did it appear they had
+the slightest suspicion that the learned doctor might have changed these
+articles as well as the penknife; and that although there were
+copper-hating worms, there might exist other kinds of human vermin,
+which might not reckon silver among their antipathies. This
+characteristic vanity, and the excessive credulity of the people, were
+strikingly exhibited in another ludicrous adventure of the same kind,
+which happened to us when I was resident at Aix.</p>
+
+<p>We were alarmed one morning by a loud flourish of trumpets, almost
+immediately under our windows. On looking out, we beheld a kind of
+triumphal car, preceded by six avant couriers, clothed in scarlet and
+gold, mounted on uncommon fine horses, and with trumpets in their hands.
+In the car was placed a complete band of musicians, and it was, after a
+little interval in the procession, followed by a superb open carriage,
+the outside front of which was entirely covered with rich crimson velvet
+and gold lace. The most singular feature about the carriage was its
+shape, for there projected from it in front, a kind of large magazine,
+(covered up also with a cloth of velvet,) which was in its dimensions
+larger than the carriage itself. In this open carriage sat a plain
+looking, dark, fat man, reclining in an attitude of the most perfect
+ease, and genteelly dressed. The whole cortege halted, in the course of
+Aix, almost immediately below our house. I joined the audience which had
+collected around it. Of course all was on the tiptoe of expectation.
+There was a joyful buzz of satisfaction through the crowd, and endless
+were the conjectures formed by our own party at the window. At length,
+after a flourish of trumpets, the gentleman rose, and uncovering the
+large magazine, showed that it contained an almost endless assemblage of
+bottles, from the greatest to the smallest dimensions. He then,
+advancing gravely, addressed himself to the audience in these words:
+<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a>"Messieurs, dans l'univers il n'ya qu'un soleil; dans le royaume de
+France il n'ya qu'un Roi; dans la medicine il n'ya que Charini." With
+this he placed his hand on his heart, bowed, and drew himself up with a
+look of the most glorious complacency. This exordium was received with
+the most rapturous applause by the crowd, who, from having often seen
+him in his progress through the kingdom, had known before that this was
+<i>Charini himself</i>, the celebrated itinerant <i>worm doctor</i>. "Gentlemen,"
+he then proceeded, "it has been the noble object of my life to
+investigate the origin and causes of disease, and fortunate is it for
+the world that it has been so. Attend, then, to my discoveries: Worms
+are at the bottom of all disease,&mdash;they are the insidious, but prolific
+authors of human misery; they are born in the cradle with the infant;
+they descend into the grave with the aged. They begin, gentlemen, with
+life, but they do not cease with death. Behold, gentlemen," he
+continued, "the living and infallible proofs of my assertions,"
+(pointing to the long rows of crystal bottles, filled with multitudes of
+every kind of these vermin, of the most odious figures, which were
+marshalled in horrible array on each side of him), "these, gentlemen,
+are the worms which have been, by my art, extracted from my patients;
+many of them are, as you see, invisible to the naked eye;" upon which he
+held up a small phial of pure water. "Not a single disease is there, and
+not a single part of the human body which has not its appropriate and
+peculiar worm. There are those whose habitation is in the head;&mdash;there
+are those which dwell only in the soles of the feet;&mdash;there are those
+whose favourite haunts are in the seat of digestion;&mdash;there are those
+(happy worms) which will consent to dwell only in the bosoms of the
+fair. Even love," said he, assuming an air of most complacent softness,
+and casting his eye tenderly over the female part of his audience, "even
+love is not an exception; it is occasioned by the subtlest species of
+worms; which insinuate themselves into the roots of the heart, and play
+in peristaltic gambols round the seat of our affections. Painters,
+gentlemen, have distinguished the God of Love by the doves with which he
+is accompanied. He ought, more correctly, to have been depicted riding
+upon that worm, to which he owes his triumphs. Behold," said he, holding
+up a phial in which there was enclosed a worm of a light colour, "behold
+the fatal love-worm, from which I have lately had the happiness to
+deliver an interesting female of Marseilles!" The crowd were enchanted,
+purchased his bottles in abundance; and I heard afterwards in Aix, that
+by this ingenious juggling, he had contrived to amass a fortune
+sufficient to purchase a large estate, and to maintain, as we had
+witnessed, a cavalcade worthy of an ambassador.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+characteristic vanity and scientific expressions, which are employed by
+the French workmen. The wig-makers, tailors, barbers, all consider their
+several trades as in some measure allied to science, and themselves as
+the only beings who understand it.&mdash;This they generally contrive to
+communicate to you with an air of mysterious importance. "Monsieur,"
+said a French barber to a friend of mine, an English sea captain who
+came in to be shaved; "you are an Englishman&mdash;sorry am I to inform you,
+but I do it with profound respect, that the science of shaving is
+altogether misunderstood in England. In their ignorance of its
+principles, they have neglected the great secret of our art. Sir," said
+he, coming closer up to him, and putting his hand to his own chin with
+an air of solemn communication, "I am credibly informed that in England
+they actually cut off the <i>epiderme</i>. Now, mon Dieu," continued he,
+turning up his eyes, and raising his soap-brush in an attitude of
+invocation, "who is there in France that will be ignorant that, in the
+destruction of this invaluable cuticle, the chin of the individual is
+tortured, and the first principles of our art degraded!"</p>
+
+<p>I have already hinted at the ignorance of the French, as a component
+part of their national credulity. This ignorance, as far as our
+opportunities of observation extended, in travelling across France,
+appeared to be deep and general; not only amongst the lower orders, but,
+on many subjects, pervading also the higher classes of the people. The
+only subjects upon which Napoleon considered that any thing like
+attempts at a national education should be made, were those connected
+with military affairs; mathematics, and the principles of mechanical
+philosophy.&mdash;Schools for these were generally founded in all the
+principal towns in the kingdom; it was there the younger officers of the
+army received their military education, and there were many public
+seminaries for public education, in addition to the Ecole Polytechnique
+in Paris, where the pupils were maintained and educated at the public
+expence. Every other branch of education, as tending to change the
+direction of the public mind, from military affairs into more pacific
+employments, was sedulously discouraged, and the consequence is seen, in
+that melancholy ignorance which is distinguishable in those generations
+of the French people which have sprung up since the revolution, and
+frequently even amongst the old nobility.<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> "Vous etes Ecossois?" said
+a French nobleman to me; 'Oui, Monsieur.' "Oh, que cela est drole." 'Et
+comment, Monsieur?' "C'est le pays de Napoleon. C'est un isle n'est ce
+pas?" 'Oh que non, Monsieur.' "Ma foi, je croyois qu'on l'appelloit
+<i>l'isle de Corse</i>." Whether, in the geographical confusion of this poor
+Marquis's brain, he had mistaken me for a Corsican, or actually believed
+that Napoleon was a Scotchman, is not very easy to determine.</p>
+
+<p>"You are an Englishwoman?" said the wife of a counsellor to one of the
+ladies of our party: "and I have been at London."&mdash;"And how did you like
+the people?" "Oh, they are very charmant; <i>bot</i> I like better that other
+town near London,&mdash;Philadelphia."</p>
+
+<p>It is well known, that formerly in France the order of the Jesuits had
+acquired so pre-eminent an interest, as to insinuate themselves into
+almost every civil branch of the political government; and that, more
+especially, by the seminaries which they established generally
+throughout the kingdom, they had created a system of national education,
+in many respects highly beneficial to the community. As to the effects
+produced by this system, under the Jesuits, on the literature of France,
+very different opinions certainly may be entertained; and that
+artificial, and in many respects unnatural, style of poetry which has
+arisen, and still continues in France, may be perhaps attributed,
+amongst other causes, to that excessive passion for classical learning
+which was so religiously instilled, whereever the influence of these
+seminaries of the Jesuits extended. The utter abolition of this order is
+well known, and the consequence is, that where there existed formerly a
+general passion for that species of literature, which they cultivated,
+and which consisted in an intimate and critical knowledge of the
+languages of antiquity, and a taste for classical learning, as the only
+object of their imitation, there remains now nothing but a deep and
+general ignorance upon every object unconnected with military affairs;
+an ignorance which is the more fatal in its consequences, because it is
+founded upon contempt. It is difficult to say which of these conditions
+is the worst, the former or the latter. Among physicians and lawyers,
+however, you meet with many individuals, who, having been educated
+probably in foreign countries, or under the old <i>regime</i>, preserve still
+a passion for that which is so generally despised.</p>
+
+<p>In speaking of the education of the French people, it is impossible for
+any one who has at all mingled in French society, not to be particularly
+struck with what I before alluded to, the extreme ignorance and the
+limited education of the women, even amongst the higher orders. In a
+family of young ladies, you will but rarely meet with one who can
+accurately write her own language; and in general, in their cards of
+invitation, or in those letters of ceremony, which you will frequently
+receive, they will send you specimens of orthography, which, in their
+defiance of every established rule, are as amusing as Mrs Win. Jenkins'
+observations on that grave and useful gentleman, <i>Mr Apias Corkus</i>.
+Amongst the boys, any thing like a finished education was as little to
+be expected; the <i>furor militaris</i> had latterly, in the public schools,
+proceeded to such a pitch, as to defy every attempt towards giving them
+a general, or in any respect a finished education. They steadily
+revolted against any thing which induced them to believe that their
+parents intended them for a pacific profession. Go into a French
+toy-shop, and you immediately discern the unambiguous symptoms of the
+military mania. Every thing there which might encourage in the infant
+any predilections for the pacific pursuits of an agricultural or
+commercial country, is religiously banished, and their places supplied
+by an infinite variety of military toys:&mdash;platoons of gens-d'armerie,
+troops of artillery, tents, waggons, camp equipage, all are arranged in
+imitative array upon the counter. The infant of the <i>grande</i> nation
+becomes familiar, in his nurse's arms, with all the detail of the
+profession to which he is hereafter to belong; and when he opens his
+eyes for the first time, it is to rest them upon that terrible machinery
+of war, in the midst of which he is destined to close them for ever.</p>
+
+<p>In every country, and in every age of the world, the great and leading
+effects of tyranny, and of military despotism, will be discovered to
+have been the same. Nothing could be a stronger corroboration of this
+remark, than that singular and unexpected parallel which was
+immediately observed by one of our party who had been long in India,
+between the policy adopted by Napoleon, and that followed by the
+Brahmins in the East. The Brahmins religiously prohibit travelling; and
+the <i>sin</i> of visiting foreign countries is particularized in their
+religious instructions. The free publication of the sentiments of
+travellers was never permitted under the late Emperor; and the severe
+regulations of the police made it extremely difficult for any Frenchman
+to travel. The object of both was the same, to prevent any mortifying
+and dangerous comparisons between the situation of their own, and the
+condition of foreign countries. The Brahmins made it a rule to check the
+progress of education, and to discourage the study of their <i>shasters</i>.
+As to these seminaries of education, unconnected with military subjects,
+Napoleon, if he did not dare actually to abolish them, at least threw
+over them the chilling influence of his imperial disapprobation; whilst,
+by that general inattention and impunity extended to vicious conduct,
+and the ridicule with which he regarded the clergy, he succeeded in
+rendering the scriptures contemptible. If, again, the condition of the
+French people was in many material respects analogous to the state of
+the Hindoos, the education of the women among them (the effect of the
+same causes operating in both countries), is completely Mussulman.
+Singing, dancing, and playing on the guitar, with a lighter species of
+ladies needle-work, forms the whole education of the French women; and
+this similarity of political treatment has produced a striking parallel
+even in the minuter parts of their national character.</p>
+
+<p>It is disagreeable to dwell upon the darker parts of their characters;
+even amongst those whose dispositions, it must be acknowledged, if
+formed in a purer country, and encouraged to develope themselves in all
+their native beauty, would have done honour to any nation. Such is the
+laxity of moral principle, that a woman of unimpeached character is but
+rarely to be found; and I can speak from my own observation and
+experience, that examples of criminal conduct, being of frequent
+occurrence and generally expected, have ceased to be the objects of
+reprobation, and are no longer the subjects of enquiry. What is more
+extraordinary, and shews a deeper sort of depravity, is the circumstance
+that such instances are entirely confined to the married women. These
+are, in their conversation and conduct, indulged, by a kind of general
+consent, with every possible freedom, and, by the extraordinary state
+of manners, are presented by their husbands with every possible facility
+they could desire. A husband and wife in France have generally separate
+apartments, or rather inhabit separate wings of their <i>hotel</i>. The
+lady's bed-room is appropriated to herself alone. Its walls would be
+esteemed polluted by any intrusion of the husband. It is there that, in
+an elegant dishabille, she receives the visits of her friends. It is
+secure against observation, or interruption of any kind whatever. It, in
+short, is the sacred palladium of female indiscretion. Much of this
+mischievous licence may, I think, be easily traced to the treatment of
+the younger and unmarried women. They are confined under a
+superintendance which is as rigorous, as the licence allowed to their
+mothers is unbounded. All those affections which begin in their early
+years to develope themselves&mdash;all those dispositions which are natural
+to youth, the innocent love of pleasure, and the passion for the society
+of those of their own age, are violently restrained by a system of
+confinement. In their early years, they are either banished by their
+parents to the seclusion of a convent, or are confined in their own
+houses, under the care of a set of severe and withered old women, whom
+they term <i>bonnes</i>. The consequence is, that the sullen influence of
+these unkindly beings is reflected upon their pupils, and that when,
+after their marriage, they are permitted to come forth from their
+prison, and mingle in general society, all the sweetness and gentleness
+of their original nature is gone for ever. But to return from this
+digression upon the ladies, other strong points of resemblance might
+easily be pointed out between the French and the native Indian
+character. The same low cunning, the same restless spirit of intrigue,
+the same gross flattery, the same astonishing command of countenance,
+and invariable politeness before strangers, the same complete sacrifice
+of every thing, character, principle, reputation, to the love of money;
+all these strong and melancholy features are clearly distinguishable in
+both. A servant who wishes for a place, a workman who is a candidate for
+employment, a shopkeeper who is anxious for customers, all invariably,
+as in India, pay money to some one who recommends them; and such is the
+poverty of the higher orders, that they compromise the meanness of the
+transaction, and receive these bribes with all the alacrity imaginable;
+and this system, which begins in these lesser transactions, is, in the
+disposal of offices under government, and the regulation of the
+patronage of the crown, the prime mover in France. If an office is to be
+disposed of, the constant phrase in France is, as in India, <i>il faut
+grassier la pate</i>. I was acquainted with two judges in France, who made
+not the least scruple to acknowledge that they owed their appointments
+to bribes, delicately administered. The bribes consisted in presents of
+<i>fruit</i>, presented in <i>a gold dish</i>. The similarity between the French
+and the inhabitants of eastern countries, on their hyperbolical
+compliments, had been observed by Montesquieu, in his Persian Letters,
+before the revolution; and by the effects of that lengthened scene of
+guilt and of confusion, as well as by the consequences of the military
+despotism under Napoleon, it has been increased to so great a degree, as
+to present a parallel more apt and striking than can be easily
+conceived.</p>
+
+<p>The excessive poverty of the higher orders, more particularly amongst
+the old nobility, has not only subjected them to this meanness of taking
+bribes, but has produced also amongst them a species of fawning
+servility of manner towards their inferiors; and this has, in its turn,
+in a great degree destroyed that high feeling of superior rank and
+superior responsibility, and that standard of amiable and noble
+manners, which are amongst the happiest consequences resulting from the
+institution of a hereditary nobility. The consequence of this servility
+amongst the <i>noblesse</i>, has inevitably produced a corresponding
+arrogance and insolence in the lower orders. One may see a French
+servant enter his master's room without taking off, or even touching his
+hat, engage in the conversation whilst he is mending the fire, throw
+himself upon a chair, and thus deliver the message he has been entrusted
+with, arrange his neckcloth at the glass, and dance out of the room,
+humming a tune. To an Englishman, this familiarity, from its excessive
+impudence, creates at first more amusement than irritation; but it
+becomes disgusting when we consider its consequences upon national
+manners, and that its causes are to be traced to national crime. I have
+seen a French gentleman take his grocer by the hand, and embracing him,
+hope for his company at supper. This submissive meanness towards their
+tradesmen, is of course much increased by their dread of the day of
+reckoning; and is therefore ultimately the consequence of their poverty.</p>
+
+<p>It happened that an English nobleman, who lately visited France, had
+shewn much kindness to one of the <i>ancienne noblesse</i> during his stay in
+England. For upwards of a year, he had insisted on his living with him
+at his country seat. Upon the eve of leaving England for France, he
+wrote to his old acquaintance, desiring him to take suitable apartments
+for him in Paris. The Frenchman returned a most polite answer,
+expressing how much he felt himself hurt by the idea that his Lordship
+should dream of taking apartments, whilst his hotel was at his service.
+The English nobleman, accordingly, lived for two months at the hotel;
+but to his astonishment, upon taking his departure, Monsieur presented
+him with a regular bill, charging for every article, and including a
+very high rent for the lodgings. This is hardly to be credited by those
+unacquainted with the present condition of France; but I am induced to
+believe the story to be in every particular correct, as the authority
+was unquestionable. This excessive poverty amongst the higher classes,
+their being often unable, from their narrow circumstances, to support a
+house and separate establishment, their living in miserable lodgings
+when they are low in purse, snatching a spare meal at some cheap
+restaurateur's, and being unaccustomed to the comfort of regular meals
+in their own house, is the cause that they are all devotedly and
+generally attached to good eating, whenever they can get it, and that to
+such an excess, that a stranger, in attending a ball supper in France,
+or treating a French party to dinner, will be astonished at the
+perseverance of their palates, and the wonderful expedition with which
+both sexes contrive to travel through the various dishes on the table.
+The behaviour of Sancho at Camacho's wedding, when he rolled his
+delighted eyes over the assembled flesh-pots, is but a prototype of what
+I have witnessed equally in French men and French women upon these
+occasions.</p>
+
+<p>At a ball supper, where it is often impossible in England to prevail
+upon the ladies to taste a morsel, you may see these delicate females of
+France, regale themselves with dressed dishes, swallow, with incredible
+avidity, repeated bowls of strong soup, and after a short interval, sit
+down to potations of hot punch, strong enough to admit of being set on
+fire. Nothing can certainly be more destructive of all ideas of feminine
+delicacy, than to see a beautiful woman with one of these midnight bowls
+burning before her, and when her complexion is rendered livid by its
+flames, looking through this medium like some unknown but voracious
+inhabitant of another world.</p>
+
+<p>An English family of our acquaintance, who had settled at Aix, and who
+wished to see company, imagined, naturally, that it would be necessary
+to go through all the tedious process of preliminary introductions,
+which are necessary in England. A French friend was consulted upon the
+subject, and his advice was as simple as it was effectual: <a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a>"Donnez
+un souper, cela fera courir tout le monde." Sometime after this,
+happening to be conversing with the same gentleman upon this
+subject:<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> "Soyez bien sur, Monsieur, (said he), que si le diable
+donne a <i>souper, tout le monde soupera dans l'enfers</i>."</p>
+
+<p>Versatility, that ruling feature in the French character, ought not to
+be forgotten. They have of late been so accustomed to change, that
+change has become not only natural, but, one would imagine, in some
+measure necessary to their happiness. They change their leaders and
+their sovereigns, with as much apparent ease as they do their fashions.
+On the slightest new impulse, they change their thoughts, their oaths,
+their love, their hatred. In this particular, a French mob is the most
+remarkable thing in the world; they cannot exist without some favourite
+yell, some particular watch-word of the day, or rather of the hour. One
+day it is, <a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>"<i>A bas le tyran! A bas les soldats!</i>" the next it is
+"<i>Vive l'Empereur! Vivent les Marchaux! Vive l'armée!</i>" or it is, "<i>Vive
+Louis le desiré! Vive le fils de bon Henri!</i>" and in the next breath,
+"<i>Vive le nation! Point de loix foedaux! Point des rois! Point de
+noblesse!</i>" then, "<i>Point des droits reunis! Point de conscriptions!</i>"
+and during the desolating æra of the revolution, their favourite cry
+presented an exact picture of the character of the nation&mdash;of the same
+nation, which, in these dark days of continual horror, could yet amuse,
+itself by an exhibition of dancing-dogs, under the blood-dropping stage
+of the guillotine; their cry was then, <a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a>"<i>Vive la Mort</i>!" Utterly
+inattentive to these inconsistencies, the French people continue
+willingly to cry out whatever rallying word may be given to them by
+those agents who, working in secret, according to the ruling authorities
+and the prevailing politics of the day, are employed to excite them. The
+calamitous consequence of this mean and thoughtless principle is, that
+they submit themselves to the regulation of all the spies and police
+emissaries who, as the pensioned menials of government, are continually
+insinuating themselves amongst them. Louis XVIII., unaccustomed to this
+system, from his long residence in England, has employed fewer spies
+than Napoleon, and the consequence has been, that the cry of Vive le Roi
+has never been re-echoed with that same high-sounding, though hollow
+enthusiasm, with which they vociferated Vive l'Empereur. An instance of
+the pliability of a French mob occurred a short time before our coming
+to Aix: When Napoleon, on his way to Elba, passed through Moulines, his
+carriage having halted at one of the inns, was immediately surrounded by
+a mob, amongst whom a cry of Vive l'Empereur was instantly raised. The
+Emperor's servants began laughing, and some one amongst, the mob
+imagining it to be in derision, exclaimed, with manifest disappointment,
+"Eh bien, Messieurs, que voulez vous donc; mais allons mes amis! crions
+tous Vive le Roi;" and having once received this new impulse, they not
+only raised, with one consent, a shout of Vive le Roi, but next moment,
+by their menaces, compelled Napoleon, who began to tremble for his
+person, to join in the cry of loyalty. Such was the miserable situation
+of that man, who, in the words of Augereau, <a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>"apres avoir immolé des
+millions des victimes, n'a su mourir en soldat;" and such the treatment
+of a French mob to one whose name, the moment before, they had extolled
+with all the symptoms of the most devoted enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">J'ai vu l'impie, adorè sur le terre</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pareil au cedre, il cachoit dans le cieux</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 7em;">Son front audacieux.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Il sembloit a son grè gouverner la tonnere,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Fouler aux pieds ses enemis vaincus,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Je ne fis que passer, il a'etoit deja plus.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Amidst all their misfortunes, the French people, and more especially the
+peasantry, have contrived to preserve their characteristic gaiety. They
+are still, without, doubt, the most cheerful people in Europe, the least
+liable to any thing like continued depression, and the most easily
+amused by trifles. If we except the peasantry, whose situation is
+comparatively comfortable, they are subject to continual deprivations.
+They are wretchedly poor, and driven by this poverty to meannesses which
+they would in other situations despise. Their labour is frequently
+demanded where refusal is impossible, and obedience attended with no
+remuneration. They themselves are hurried away, if young, to fill up the
+miserable quotas of the conscription; torn from the happiest scenes of
+their youth, and banished from every object of their affection. If old,
+they are doomed to pass their solitary years uncomforted, and
+unsupported. The hopes of their age may have fallen, but amidst all this
+complicated misery, it is indeed most wonderful that they yet continue
+to be cheerful. The accustomed gaiety of their spirits will not even
+then desert them; and meeting with a stranger who enters into
+conversation with them, or seated with a few friends at a caffé, they
+will sip their liqueurs, smoke their segars, and talk with enthusiasm
+of the triumphs and glory of the <i>grande nation</i>, although these
+triumphs may have given the fatal blow to all that constituted their
+happiness, and in this glory they may see the graves of their children.
+This is not patriotism: It is a far lower principle. It is produced by
+national pride, vanity, thoughtlessness, a contempt or ignorance of
+domestic happiness, and all this allied to an unconquerable levity and
+heartlessness of disposition. It is not therefore that severe but noble
+principle, the silent offspring between thought and sorrow, which
+soothes at least where it cannot cure, and alleviates the acuteness of
+individual sufferings, by the consolation that our friends have fallen
+in the courageous execution of their duty. It has in its composition
+none of those higher feelings, but is more an instinct, and one too of a
+shallow and degrading nature, than any thing like a steady and
+regulating moral principle.</p>
+
+<p>This, however, which makes them unconscious to any thing like
+unhappiness, renders them, under imprisonment, banishment, and
+deprivation, more able to endure the hardships and reverses of war than
+any other troops.</p>
+
+<p>It is perhaps an improper word in speaking of imprisonment and
+banishment to a Frenchman, to say they endure it better; the truth is,
+they do not feel it so acutely, and the reason is, that the military,
+owing to their restless and wandering life, are comparatively less
+attached than other troops to their native country. They suffer better,
+because they feel less.</p>
+
+<p>In courage the English soldiers certainly equal them, and in physical
+strength they far surpass them; but the mind of a Frenchman is, for hard
+service, far better constituted than that of an Englishman. Nothing, it
+is well known, is so difficult as to rally an English force after any
+thing approaching even to a defeat. This is by no means the case with
+the French, and the history of the last campaign, preceding the
+restoration of the Borbons, contains a detailed account of many
+successive' defeats, after which the French army rallied and fought as
+undauntedly as before; and during the last war there was not perhaps a
+single battle contended with more determination than that of Toulouse.</p>
+
+<p>In regard to the lower orders of the peasantry, it is amongst them alone
+that we can yet distinctly discern the last traces of the ancient French
+character. They are certainly, from the sale of the great landed estates
+at the revolution, (which, divided into small farms, were bought by the
+lower orders,) for the most part comparatively in a rich and independent
+situation; and poverty is far more generally felt by the higher classes
+of the nation, than by the regular peasantry of the country. Yet with
+all this, they have become neither insolent nor haughty to their
+superiors; and you will meet at this day with more real unsophisticated
+politeness, and more active civility amongst the present French
+peasantry, than is to be found among the nobility or the soldiery of the
+nation.</p>
+
+<p>It is to them alone that the hopes of the revival of the French nation
+must ultimately turn. It is from this quarter that France, if she is
+ever to possess them, must alone derive those pacific energies, which,
+whilst they may render her as a nation less generally terrible, will yet
+cause her to be more individually happy.</p>
+
+<p>In every country, we must regard the peasantry as the sinews and stamina
+of the state. They are, in every respect, to the nation what the heart
+is to the individual; the centre from which health, energy and vigour
+must be imparted to the remotest portions of the political body. If such
+is the rank held by the peasantry <i>in all countries</i>, much more
+important: is the station which they at present fill in <i>France</i>, and
+far more momentous (owing to the circumstances in which that kingdom now
+stands), are the duties which they owe to their country. It is there
+alone that any sufficient antidote can be found for that political
+misery, occasioned by such a course of unprincipled national triumphs,
+as had been so long the boast of France, and which we have so lately
+closed in all the splendour of legitimate victory. It is to them that
+the court must look for the restoration of that moral principle, which,
+under the administration of the late Emperor, it so thoroughly despised:
+It is to them that the army must look for the restoration of those high
+feelings of military honour, which we shall seek in vain in the present
+soldiery of France: It is from them that the great landed proprietors
+and the country gentlemen (if that honourable name is ever again to be
+realised in France), must learn to sacrifice their schemes of individual
+enjoyment, and to renounce the dissipations of the capital for the
+severer duties which await them in the interior of the kingdom.</p>
+
+<p>I have before mentioned that civility and politeness which is still so
+characteristic of the peasantry of the kingdom. In addition to this,
+from every thing I could observe, they appeared to be really
+comfortable, and their invariable cheerfulness was accompanied by that
+flow of easy unpremeditated mirth, which gave us the impression that
+they were really happy. In the streets of Paris, and in the different
+ranks of society in the capital, you see, I think, the same outward
+symptoms of happiness; but, in many instances, their high sounding
+expressions of joy appear more like the wish to be happy, than the sober
+possession of happiness. The soldiery, in particular, seem, by their
+loud and repeated sallies, to have embraced a desperate kind of plan, of
+actually roaring themselves into forgetfulness; whereas the peasantry of
+the kingdom, after having passed the day in the labour of their fields
+or vineyards, dispersing in little troops through their village, the old
+to converse over the stories of their youth, the young dancing to the
+pipe and tabor, or singing in little groupes, arranged on the green
+seats under their orchard trees, appear, without effort, to sink into
+that enviable state of unforced enjoyment, which falls upon their minds
+as easily and calmly as the sleep of Heaven upon their eyelids.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the French, dancing is that strong and prevailing passion which
+is found in every rank in society, which is confined to no sex, nor
+age, nor figure, but is universally disseminated throughout every
+portion of the kingdom; from the cottage to the court, from the cradle
+to the grave, the French invariably dance when they can seize an
+opportunity. Nay, the older the individual, the more vigorous seems to
+be the passion. Wrinkles may furrow the face, but lassitude never
+attacks the limbs.</p>
+
+<p>It is their singular perseverance in this favourite pursuit which
+renders a French ball to a stranger more than commonly ludicrous. In
+England, when the company begins to assemble, you are delighted with the
+troops of young and blooming girls, who throng into the dancing room,
+with faces beaming with the desire, and forms bounding with the
+anticipation of pleasure. In France, you must conceive the room to be
+superbly lighted up, and the walls covered with large mirrors, which, in
+their indefinite multiplication, suffer nothing, however ludicrous, to
+escape them. The folding doors slowly open, and there begins to hobble
+in, (as quick as their advanced years will permit them,) unnumbered
+forms of aged ladies and gentlemen, intermixed with some possessing
+certainly the firmer step of middle life, but few or none who dare
+pretend to the activity of youth. On one side comes the old <i>Marquis</i>,
+dressed in the extremity of the fashion, every ruffle replete with
+effect, and not a curl but what he would tremble to remove, stepping,
+with the most finished complacency, at the side of some antiquated dame
+of sixty, who minces and rustles at his side in the costume of sixteen.
+Previous to the dancing, it is indeed ridiculous to observe the series
+of silent tendernesses, the sly looks and fascinating glances with which
+these old worthies entertain each other. Meanwhile the music strikes up,
+and the floor is instantly covered with waltzers. It is well known, that
+the waltz is a dance, above all others, requiring grace and youth, and
+activity in those who perform it. Nothing, therefore, to a stranger, can
+be more entertaining, than the sight of those motley and aged couples,
+who, with a desperate resolution, stand up to bid defiance to the
+warnings of nature; and who, after they have first swallowed a tumbler
+of punch, (which is their constant practice,) begin to reel round with
+the waltzers, putting you in mind of Miss Edgeworth's celebrated Irish
+horse, <i>Knockegroghery</i>, who needed to have porter poured down his
+throat, and to be warmed in his harness, before he could achieve any
+thing like continued motion. In England, few ladies, unless those who
+are extremely young, ever dream of dancing after their marriage. In
+France, the young ladies before marriage are seldom admitted into
+company; after marriage, therefore, their gaiety instantly commences,
+and continues literally until the total failure of the physical powers
+of nature puts an end to the ability, though not to the love of
+pleasure. Any thing, therefore, it may be well believed, which comes
+between the French ladies and this mania for dancing, produces no
+ordinary effect. One of our party observed at a ball, a French lady of
+quality in the deepest mourning. On coming up to her, she remarked to
+the English lady, with a face of much melancholy, that her situation was
+indeed deplorable. "Look at me," said she, "these are the weeds for my
+mother, who has only been two months dead. Do you see these odious black
+gloves; they will not permit me to join in your amusements; but oh! how
+the heart dances, when the feet can't." "Come, come," said another
+female waltzer of fifty, whose round little body we had traced at
+intervals, rolling and pirouetting about the room; "come, we forget that
+the fast of Ash Wednesday begins at twelve. We may sup well before
+twelve, but not a morsel after it. We have but one short hour to eat,
+but we may dance, you know, all night."</p>
+
+<p>By our acquaintance with the best society in Aix, we have enjoyed no
+unfavourable opportunity of forming an idea of the present condition of
+society in the south of France. One of the first circumstances which we
+all remarked, and which has probably occurred to most who have
+associated in French society, was the wide range over which the titles
+of nobility extended. We indeed heard, that at Aix, where we resided,
+and at Toulouse, there were to be found more of the old nobility than in
+any other parts of France. These towns were, on account of the cheapness
+of living, the depôts of the emigrant gentlemen whose fortunes had been
+reduced by the revolution, the receptacles of the ancient aristocracy of
+France. Yet even making every allowance for this circumstance, when we
+recollect the appearance and manners of many who were dignified by the
+titles of Marquis, Counts and Barons, it was impossible not to feel
+that, when compared with our own country, there was a kind of
+profanation of the aristocracy; and I should not be much surprised, if
+it was afterwards discovered, by some who would take the pains to
+investigate the subject narrowly, that in these remote parts of the
+kingdom, there subsisted a species of silent understood compact, by
+which the parties agreed, that if the one was dignified by his friends
+with the title of <i>Marquis</i>, he would in his turn make no scruple to
+favour the other with the appellation of <i>Count</i>. Certainly, when
+requested to explain the principles upon which titles of dignity
+descended, the account given by these noblemen themselves was quite
+unsatisfactory, and nearly unintelligible. The different orders also of
+knighthood, appeared to us to be very widely extended. The Chevaliers de
+St Louis were literally swarming. You could scarcely enter a shop, where
+you did not instantly discover one or more of these gentry sitting on
+the counter, conversing with the shopkeeper, or flirting with his
+daughter or wife. In their dress and general appearance in the forenoon,
+there appeared to be an unlimited latitude of shabbiness allowed both to
+the ladies and gentlemen; while in the evening, on the contrary, whether
+at home or abroad, we found them uniformly handsomely, and, making
+allowance for the difference of national costume, often elegantly drest.
+Nothing, indeed, could be more singular than the contrast between the
+extraordinary apparel of the same ladies (and those ladies of quality,
+marchionesses and countesses) whom we had visited at their own houses
+in the forenoon, and their appearance, when we met them in the evening,
+at the public concerts or private parties given at Aix. In the morning,
+you will find them receiving visits in their bed-rooms in the most
+complete dishabille; their night-cap not removed, a little bed-gown
+thrown carelessly over them; their hair in papillots, and their handsome
+ancles covered by coarse list slippers. In the evening, the <i>bonnet de
+nuit</i> is discarded, and a snow-white plume of feathers waves upon its
+former foundation; the little bed-gown is thrown aside, and a superb
+robe of satin rustles and glitters in its stead; the head, instead of
+being bristled with papillots, is clothed with the most luxuriant curls;
+and the unrivalled foot and ancle display at once, in the beauty of
+their shape and the elegance of their decoration, the bounty of nature
+and the unwearied assiduity of nature's assistant journeymen&mdash;the
+shoemakers. The style of French parties is certainly very dissimilar to
+those we are accustomed to in our own country. And this difference is
+easily to be traced to the remarkable differences in the character of
+the two nations. To the prevailing influence of the fancy, the power of
+imagination and the love of amusement amongst the French, and to those
+ideas of sober sense, that spirit of phlegmatic indifference, and the
+engrossing influence of public employments, which are remarkable in the
+English nation. During our residence in the south, we were invited by
+the Countess de R&mdash;&mdash; to a ball, which, she told us, was given in honour
+of her son's birth-day. We went accordingly, and were first received in
+the card-rooms, which we found brilliantly lighted and decorated, and
+full of company. We were then conducted into another handsome apartment
+fitted up as a theatre. The curtain rose, and the young Count de R&mdash;&mdash;
+tripped lightly from behind the scenes, with the most complete
+self-possession, and at the same time, with great elegance, begun a
+little address to the audience, apologising for his inability to amuse
+them as he could have wished, and concluded his address, by singing,
+with a great deal of action, two French songs. He then skipped nimbly
+off the stage and returned, leading in the principal actress at the
+theatre here, M. de&mdash;&mdash;. They performed together a little dramatic
+interlude composed for the occasion; the company then adjourned into the
+card-rooms, and the evening concluded by a ball. At another private
+party we attended when the company were assembled; a folding door flew
+open, and a party of ladies and gentlemen, fantastically drest as
+shepherds and shepherdesses, flew into the room, and to our great
+amusement, began acting with their pipes and crooks and garlands, and
+all the paraphernalia of pastoral life, those employments of rural
+labour, or scenes of rustic courtship, which, in their public
+amusements, we have before remarked as peculiar favourites with the
+French people.</p>
+
+<p>If, as we have above remarked, for the hopes of the restoration of
+truth, and honour, and principle, in France, we must turn to the lower
+orders, it will not, I trust, be thought too trifling to observe, that
+any thing like real excellence in music, another favourite national
+propensity, is, as far as we could observe, to be found in the peasantry
+alone. The music of the capital, the modern compositions performed at
+the opera, the prevailing songs of the day, are all noisy, unmeaning,
+unharmonious (I speak, of course, merely from personal feeling, and with
+deference to those better able to form an opinion upon the subject;) but
+it is impossible to hear the unharmonious crash which proceeds from the
+orchestra of the opera, without immediately recollecting the celebrated
+pun of Rosseau: "Pour l'Academie de musique, certainement il fait le
+plus du bruit du monde." On the other hand, it is amongst the peasantry
+alone that you now find the ancient music of France. Those airs which
+are so deeply associated with all the glory and gallantry of the old
+monarchy; those songs of olden times, which were chanted by the
+wandering Troubadours, as they returned from foreign wars to their
+native vallies, and whose simple melody recalls the days of chivalry in
+which they arose: these, and all others of the same æra, which once
+composed in truth the national music of this great people, are no longer
+to be found amongst the higher classes of the community. But they still
+exist among the peasantry. The vine-dresser, as he begins, with the
+rising sun, his labours in the vineyards; or the poor muleteer, as he
+drives his cattle to the water, will chant, as he goes along, those
+ancient airs, which, in all their native simplicity, he has heard from
+his fathers; and which, in other days, have echoed through the halls of
+feudal pride, or have been sung in the bowers of listening beauty. Of
+the prevalence of this refined taste in poetry among the lower orders of
+the peasantry, the following fragment of an old ballad, still very
+commonly sung to the ancient Troubadour air by the peasantry of
+Provence, may be given as a familiar instance:</p>
+
+
+<p class="poem"><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">LE TROUBADOUR.</span><br /><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Un gentil Troubadour</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qui chant et fait la guerre,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Revennit chez son Pere</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Revant a son amour.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Gages de sa valeur</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Suspendus en echarpe,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Son epée et sa harpe</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Croisaient sur son c&#339;ur.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Il rencontre en chemin</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pelerine jolie</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qui voyage et qui prie</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Un rosaire a la main,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Colerette aux longs plies</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Gouvre sa fine taille,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Et grande chapeau de paille</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Cache son front divin.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Ah! gentil Troubadour,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Si tu reviens fidele,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Chant un couplet pour celle</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qui benit ton retour."</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Pardonnez mon refus,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Pelerine jolie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Sans avoir vu m'amie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Je ne chanterai plus."</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Ne la revois tu pas&mdash;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Oh Troubadour fidele,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Regarde la&mdash;C'est elle,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ouvre lui donc tes bras.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Priant pour notre amour</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">J'allois en pelerine</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">A la vierge divine</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Demander son secours."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I believe no apology need be made for subjoining here, another very
+favourite song in the French army: One of our party heard it sung by a
+body of French soldiers, who were on their return to their homes, from
+the campaign of Moscow.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="poem">
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">LA CENTINELLE.</span><br /><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">L'Astre de nuit dans son paisible eclat</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Lanca ses feux sur les tentes de la France,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Non loin de camp un jeune et beau soldat</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Ainsi chantoit appuyè sur sa lance.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">"Allez, volez, zephyrs joyeux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Portez mes v&#339;ux vers ma patrie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Dites que je veille dans ces lieux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Que je veille dans ces lieux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie.</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">L'Astre de jour r'animera le combat,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Demain il faut signaler ma valence;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Dans la victoire on trouve le trepas,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Mais si je meura an coté de ma lance,&mdash;</span><br />
+<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Volez encore, zephyrs joyeux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Portez mes regrets vers ma patrie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">Dites que je meurs dans ces lieux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4em;">Que je meurs dans ces lieux,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie."</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is certainly productive of no common feelings, when, in travelling
+into the interior of the country, you find these beautiful songs, so
+much despised in the metropolis! of the nation, still lingering in their
+native vallies, and shedding their retiring sweetness over those scenes
+to which they owed their birth.</p>
+
+<p>How much is it to be desired that some man of genius, some lover of the
+real glory of his country, would collect, with religious hand, these
+scattered flowers, which are so fast sinking into decay, and again raise
+into general estimation the beautiful and forgotten music of his native
+land.</p>
+
+<p>In a discussion upon French manners, and the present condition of French
+society, it is impossible but that one great and leading observation
+must almost immediately present itself, and the truth of which, on
+whatever side, or to whatever class of society you may turn, becomes
+only the more apparent as you take the longer time to consider it; this
+is, that the French <i>carry on every thing in public</i>. That every thing,
+whether it is connected with business or with pleasure, whether it
+concerns the more serious affair of political government, or the pursuit
+of science, or the cultivation of art, or whether it is allied only to a
+taste for society, to the gratification of individual enjoyment, to the
+passing occupations of the day, or the pleasures of the evening&mdash;all, in
+short, either of serious, or of lighter nature, is open and public. It
+is carried on abroad, where every eye may see, and every ear may listen.
+Every one who has visited France since the revolution must make this
+remark. The first thing that strikes a stranger is, that a Frenchman has
+<i>no home</i>: He lives in the middle of the public; he breakfasts at a
+caffé; his wife and family generally do the same. During the day, he
+perhaps debates in the Corps Legislatif, or sleeps over the essays in
+the Academie des Sciences, or takes snuff under the Apollo, or talks of
+the fashions of the Nouvelle Cour, at the side of the Venus de Medicis,
+or varies the scene by feeding the bears in the Jardin des Plantes. He
+then dines abroad at a restaurateur's. His wife either is there with
+him, or perhaps she prefers a different house, and frequents it alone.
+His sons and daughters are left to manage matters as they best can. The
+sons, therefore, frequent their favourite caffés, whilst the daughters
+remain confined under the care of their <i>bonnes</i> or <i>duennas</i>. In the
+evening he strolls about the Palais, joins some friend or another, with
+whom he takes his caffé, and sips his liqueurs in the Salon de Paix or
+Milles Colonnes; he then adjourns to the opera, where, for two hours, he
+will twist himself into all the appropriate contortions of admiration,
+and vent his joy, in the strangest curses of delight, the moment that
+Bigottini makes her appearance upon the stage; and, having thus played
+those many parts which compose his motley day, he will return at night
+to his own lodging, perfectly happy with the manner he has employed it,
+and ready, next morning, to recommence, with recruited alacrity, the
+same round of heterogeneous enjoyment. Such is, in fact, an epitome of
+the life of all Frenchmen, who are not either bourgeoise, employed
+constantly in their shops during the day, or engaged in the civil or
+military avocations&mdash;of those who are in the same situation in France,
+as our gentlemen of independent fortune in England. Another peculiarity
+is, that the Frenchmen of the present day are not only always abroad, in
+the midst <i>of the public</i>, but that they invariably flock from the
+interior of the kingdom into Paris, and there engage in those public
+exhibitions, and bustle about in that endless routine of business or
+pleasure, which is passing in the capital. The French nobility, and the
+men of property who still remain in the kingdom, invariably spend their
+lives in Paris. Their whole joy consists la exhibiting themselves in
+public in the capital. Their magnificent chateaus, their parks, their
+woods and fields, and their ancient gardens, decorated by the taste, and
+often cultivated by the hands of their fathers, are allowed to fall into
+unpitied ruin. If they retire for a few weeks to their country seat, it
+is only to collect the rents from their neglected peasantry, to curse
+themselves for being condemned to the <i>triste sejour</i> of their paternal
+estate; and, after having thus replenished their coffers, to dive again
+from their native woods, with renewed strength, into all the publicity
+and dissipation of the capital. This was not always the state of things
+in France. Previous to, and during the reign of Henry IV. the manners,
+the society, and the mode of life of the nobility and gentlemen of the
+kingdom, were undoubtedly different The country was not then deserted
+for the town; the industry of the peasantry was exerted under the
+immediate eye of the proprietor; and his happiness formed, we may
+believe, no inferior object in the mind of his master; If we look at
+the domestic memoirs which describe the condition of France in these
+ancient days, we shall find that even from the early age of Francis I.
+till the commencement of the political administration of Richelieu, the
+situation of this country presented a very different picture; and that
+the lives of the country gentlemen were passed in a very opposite manner
+from that unnatural state of the kingdom to which we have above alluded.
+Even the condition of the interior of the kingdom, as it is now seen,
+points to this happier state of things. Their chateaus, which are now
+deserted,&mdash;their silent chambers, with tarnished gilding and decaying
+tapestry, remind us of the days when the old nobleman was proud to spend
+his income on the decoration and improvement of his property; the
+library, on whose walls we see the family pictures, in those hunting and
+shooting dresses which tell of the healthier exercises of a country
+retirement; whilst on the shelves, there sleeps undisturbed the
+forgotten literature of the Augustan age of France&mdash;all this evidently
+shows, that there was once, at least, to be found in the interior of the
+kingdom, another and a different state of things. In the essays of
+Montaigne, the private life of a French gentleman is admirably
+depicted. His days appear to have been divided between his family, his
+library, and his estate. A French nobleman lived then happy in the seat
+of his ancestors. His family grew up around him; and he probably visited
+the town as rarely as the present nobility do the country,&mdash;the
+education of his children,&mdash;the care of his peasantry,&mdash;the rural
+labours of planting and gardening,&mdash;the sports of the country,&mdash;the
+<i>grandes chasses</i> which he held in his park, surrounded by troops of
+servants who had been born on his estate, and who evinced their
+affection by initiating the young heir into all the mysteries of the
+chase, the enjoyment of the society of his friends and neighbours; all
+these varied occupations filled up the happy measure of his useful and
+enviable existence. The life of the country proprietor in these older
+days of France, assimilated, in short, in a great degree to the present
+manner of life amongst the same classes which is still observable in
+England.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible to conceive any thing more striking than the difference
+between this picture of a French chateau in these older days, and the
+condition in which you find them at the present moment. We once visited
+the chateau of one of the principal noblemen in Provence; and he
+himself had the politeness to accompany us. The situation of the castle
+was perfectly beautiful; but on coming nearer, every thing showed that
+it was completely neglected. The different rooms, which were once
+superb, were now bare and unfurnished. The walks through the park, the
+seats and temples in the woods, and the superb gardens, were speedily
+going to decay. The surface of his ponds, in the midst of which the
+fountains still played, were covered with weeds, and the rank grass was
+waving round the bases of the marble statues, which were placed at the
+termination of the green alleys; every thing showed the riches, the
+care, and the taste of a former generation, and the carelessness, and
+neglect of the present. On remonstrating with the proprietor, he
+defended himself by telling us how lonely he should feel at such a
+distance from Paris: "<i>C'est toujours ici (said he), un triste sejour</i>."
+A collation was served up, and after this, being in want of amusement,
+he opened a closet in the corner of the room, and discovered to us, in
+its recess, a vast variety of toys, which he began to exhibit to the
+ladies, telling us, "that when forced to live in the country, he
+diverted his solitary hours with these entertaining little affairs."</p>
+
+<p>Nothing certainly can be more striking than this contrast between the
+modern and ancient life of a French proprietor or nobleman; and it is a
+question which must necessarily arise in the mind of every one, who has
+observed this remarkable difference, what are the causes to which so
+great a change is owing? Perhaps, if we look into it, this extraordinary
+change will be found to have arisen chiefly out of the vigorous, but
+dangerous policy of that age, when, under the administration of
+Richelieu, the power of the sovereign rose upon the ruins of the
+aristocracy&mdash;when the institution of standing armies first began to be
+systematically followed&mdash;and when, by the perfection of their police,
+and that vilest of all inventions, their espionage, the comfort, the
+security, and the confidence of society was destroyed, by the secret
+influence of these poisonous and pensioned menials of government. In the
+successful accomplishment of these three great objects, was involved the
+destruction of that older state of France, which was to be seen under
+Henry III. and IV. The schemes by which Richelieu succeeded in drawing
+the nobility from the interior of the country to Paris, the style of
+splendid living, sumptuous expences, and magnificent entertainments
+which he introduced, produced two unhappy effects; it removed them from
+their country seats, and forced them at the same time to drain their
+estates, in order to defray their increasing expences in the capital. It
+made them dependent in a great measure upon the crown; and thus tied
+them down to Paris. On the other hand, by what has been termed his
+<i>admirable</i> police, by his encouragement to all informers, by the
+jealousy of any thing like private intercourse, he rendered the
+retirement of their homes, the fire-side of their families, instead of
+that sacred spot, around which was once seated all the charities of
+life, the very center of all that was hollow, gloomy, and suspicious. It
+was in this manner that the French seem actually to have been driven
+from the society of their families, to seek a kind of desperate solitude
+in public; and that which was at first a necessity, has, in the progress
+of time, become an established habit. But I have to apologise for
+introducing, in a chapter of this light nature, and that perhaps in too
+strong language, these vague conjectures upon so serious a subject as
+this change in the condition of French society.</p>
+
+<p>One necessary effect of the taste for publicity, formerly mentioned, is,
+that in France every thing is in some way or other attempted to be made
+a <i>spectacle</i>; and this favourite word itself has gradually grown into
+such universal usage, that it has acquired such power over the minds of
+all classes of the people, as to be hardly ever out of their mouths.
+Whatever they are describing, be it grave or gay, serious or ludicrous,
+a comedy or a tragedy, a scene in the city or in the country; in short,
+every thing, of whatever nature or character it may chance to be, which
+is seen in public, is included under this all-comprehensive term; and
+the very highest praise which can be given it, is, "Ah Monsieur, c'est
+un <i>vrai</i> spectacle. C'est un spectacle tout a <i>fait superbe</i>." It is
+this taste for spectacles, this inordinate passion for every thing
+producing <i>effect</i>, every thing which can add in this manner to what
+they conceive ought to be the necessary arrangement in all public
+exhibitions, which has, in many of these exhibitions, completely
+destroyed all the deeper feelings which they would otherwise naturally
+be calculated to produce. It is this taste which has created that
+dreadful and disgusting anomaly in national antiquities, the Museé des
+Monumens François, which has mangled and dilapidated the monuments of
+the greatest men, and the memorials of the proudest days of France, to
+produce in Paris a spectacle worthy of the <i>grande nation</i>. It is this
+same taste, which, in that solemn commemoration of the death of their
+king, the <i>service solennel</i> for Louis XVI. contrived to introduce a
+species of affected parade,&mdash;a detailed and theatrical sort of grief,&mdash;a
+kind of meretricious mummery of sorrow, which banished all the feelings,
+and almost completely destroyed the impression which such a scene in any
+other country would inevitably have produced. Any thing, it may be
+easily imagined, which gratifies this general taste for public
+exhibitions, and any thing which is fitted to increase their effect, is
+greeted by the French with the highest applause. One would have
+imagined, that the first appearance of Lord Wellington in the French
+opera, would, to most Frenchmen, have been a circumstance certainly not
+to make an exhibition of: Very far from it&mdash;The presence of Lord
+Wellington added greatly to the general effect of the spectacle. This
+was all the French thought of; and he was received, if possible, with
+more enthusiastic applause, and more reiterated greetings than the royal
+family of France. Would a French conqueror have met with the same
+reception in the opera at London?</p>
+
+<p>When the reviews of the Russian troops were daily occurring in the Champ
+de Mars, an anxiety to examine the state of their discipline, and the
+general condition of their army, induced us punctually to attend them.
+What was our astonishment, when we saw <i>several</i> barouches full of
+French ladies, seemingly taking the greatest delight in superintending
+the man&#339;uvres of the very men who had conquered the armies, and occupied
+the capital of their country; and delighted with the attentions which
+were paid them by the different Russian officers who had led them to
+victory?</p>
+
+<p>But there is yet another exhibition in Paris, which is at once the most
+singular in its nature, and which shows, in the very strongest light,
+this general deep-set passion in the French, for the creation of what
+they imagine the necessary <i>effect</i> which ought to be attended to in
+every thing which is displayed in public, I mean that extraordinary
+exhibition which they term the Catacombs. These catacombs are large
+subterraneous excavations, which stretch themselves to a great extent
+under Paris; and which were originally the quarries which furnished the
+stones for building the greater part of that capital. You arrive at them
+by descending, by torch light, a narrow winding stair, which strikes
+perpendicularly into the bosom of the earth; and which, although its
+height is not above 70 feet, leads you to a landing-place, so dark and
+dismal, that it might be as well in the centre of the earth as so near
+its surface. After walking for a considerable time through different
+obscure subterranean streets, you arrive at the great stone gate of the
+catacombs, above which you can read by the light of the torches, "<i>The
+Habitation of the Dead.</i>" On entering, you find yourself in a dark wide
+hall, supported by broad stone pillars, with a low arched roof, the
+further end of which is hid in complete obscurity; but the walls of
+which, (as they are illuminated by the livid and feeble gleam of the
+torches), are discovered to be completely formed of human bones. All
+this, as far as I have yet described,&mdash;- the subterranean streets which
+you traverse,&mdash;the dark gate of the great hall, over which you read the
+simple but solemn inscription,&mdash;and the gloom and silence of the
+chambers, whose walls you discover to be furnished in this terrible
+manner, is fitted to produce a most deep and powerful effect. To find
+yourself the only living being, surrounded on every side by the dead; to
+be the only thing that possesses the consciousness of existence, while
+millions of those who have once <i>been</i> as you <i>are</i>&mdash;millions of all
+ages, from the infant who has just looked in upon this world, in its
+innocent road to heaven, to the aged, who has fallen in the fullness of
+years;&mdash;and the young, the gay, and the beautiful of former centuries,
+lie all cold and silent around you:&mdash;it is impossible that these deep
+and united feelings should not powerfully affect the mind,&mdash;should not
+lead it to rivet its thoughts upon that last scene, which all are to act
+alone, and where, in the cold and unconscious company of the dead, we
+are here destined to "end the strange, eventful history" of our nature:
+But unfortunately, the guide, who now approaches you, insists upon your
+examining the details, which he conceives it is his duty to point out;
+and it is then that you discover, that this prevailing taste for
+producing effect, this love of the arrangements necessary to complete
+the <i>spectacle</i>, has invaded even this sacred receptacle. The ornaments
+which he points out, and which are curiously framed of the whitest and
+most polished bones; little altars which are built of the same materials
+in the corners of the chambers, and crowned with what the artists have
+imagined the handsomest skulls; and the frequent poetical quotations,
+which, upon a nearer view, you discern upon the walls;&mdash;all this, in the
+very worst style of French taste, evinces, that the same unhallowed
+hands which had dared to violate the monuments of their heroes, have not
+scrupled to intrude their presumptuous and miserable efforts, even into
+the humbler sanctuary allotted to the dead.</p>
+
+<p>I have above described the singular, and, to a stranger, most
+entertaining scenes which take place at the French balls. If, however,
+owing to this extraordinary state of manners, to the ludicrous ardour of
+the old ladies, and the very moderate proportion of the young ones, a
+French ball is more the scene of aged folly, than of youthful pleasure,
+it must be allowed, that in another style of society, their lesser
+parties, they far excel us. The conversation in these is easy, natural,
+and often even fascinating. The terms of polite familiarity with which
+you yourself are regarded, and with which you are encouraged to treat
+all around you; the absence of every thing like stiffness, or formality;
+the little interludes of music, in which, either in singing, or in
+performing on some instrument, most of those you meet are able to take a
+part; the round games which are often introduced, and where all forget
+themselves to be happy, and to make others so,&mdash;this species of party is
+certainly something far superior to those crowded assemblies, engrafted
+now, as it would appear, with general consent, upon English society;
+and which, with a ludicrous perversity, we have denominated by that
+sacred word of Home, which has so long connected itself with scenes of
+tranquil and unobtrusive enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>After having given such a picture of the general state of French
+society, as we have presented in this chapter, it would be highly unjust
+if we did not mention, that to the above descriptions of life and
+manners, we found many exceptions. That we met with many very
+intelligent men, of liberal education and gentlemanly conduct; and that
+in the town where we resided, and indeed generally during our travels,
+we experienced the greatest hospitality and kindness. The most amiable
+features in the French character are shewn in their conduct to
+strangers. But this is one of the few points in which we think they
+deserve the imitation of our countrymen; and we have been the more full
+in our observations upon their faults, because we trust that there may
+ever remain a marked difference between the two nations.</p>
+
+<p>The present we consider as the moment when all those who have had
+opportunities of judging of the French character, ought in duty to make
+public the information they have collected; for it is now that a more
+perfect intercourse must produce its effects upon the two nations; and
+taking it as an established maxim, that "vice to be hated, needs only to
+be seen," we have thus hastily laid our observations before the public,
+claiming their indulgence for the manifold faults to which our anxious
+desire to avail ourselves of the favourable moment has unavoidably given
+rise.</p>
+
+
+<h3><a name="REGISTER" id="REGISTER"></a>REGISTER OF THE WEATHER.</h3>
+
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p class="no"><span class="lt">T</span><span class="smcap">he</span>
+climate of the south of France is, very generally, recommended for
+those invalids who are suffering under pulmonary complaints. The author
+of the foregoing work having resided at Aix, in Provence, during the
+winter months, has thought it right to publish the following short
+Register of the Weather, for the use of those who may have it in view to
+try the benefit of change of climate. His object is to show, that
+although, in general, the climate is much milder than in England or
+Scotland, yet there is much greater variety than is generally imagined.
+Upon the whole, he conceives, that he derived considerable benefit from
+his residence at Aix. But such were the difficulties in travelling, and
+so great was the want of comfort in the houses in the south of France,
+that he is of opinion, that in most cases a residence in Devonshire
+would be found fully as beneficial.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">From experience in his own case, he can venture to affirm, that where
+the patient, labouring under a pulmonary complaint, visits the south of
+France, he should perform the journey by sea, which appears to him as
+beneficial as the land journey is hurtful.</p>
+
+<p class="sp">In keeping the following Register, the thermometer was in the shade,
+though in a warm situation. The time of observation was between 12 and 1
+in France, and between 10 and 11 in Edinburgh.</p>
+
+
+<table summary="weather" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5"
+style="text-align:center;">
+
+<tr><td colspan="4"
+style="line-height:100px;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="4" align="center"
+style="line-height:100px;border-bottom:1px black solid;
+border-top:1px black solid;"><b>AIX.</b></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align="right">Dec.</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><i>Ther</i></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>Air delightful, like a fine day in June--sun very powerful,</td><td align="right">60</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>The air rather damp and heavy--the sun very powerful,</td><td align="right">65</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>Excepting in the sun, it was cold to-day, like to a spring day--the <i>Vent de Bise</i> prevailed in the morning,</td><td align="right">59</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>Frosty day--but between twelve and two the sun powerful, and the climate delightful,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>The air frosty, but the sun very powerful--temperature delightful, though sharp and bracing--air very dry,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>Air more mild--sun exceedingly hot--this was a charming day--the air still sufficiently bracing,</td><td align="right">59</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>No sun to-day--very mild air, but damp,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>No sun to-day--air very damp, and a little rain--a mild day, but very disagreeable,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>Rain all night--thick mist in the morning, air damp--at twelve, the day broke up, and it was pleasant,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>Rain in the night--day damp, raw and cold,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>Day cleared up about twelve--air rather damp and raw--a great deal of rain in the night,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>Clear day, but wind fresh and cold--pleasant in the sun,</td><td align="right">53</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>Clear day--wind fresh and unpleasant--air damp,</td><td align="right">53</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Clear day--wind very cold, but pleasant in the sun,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>Day very cloudy, with rain--rain all night--air damp and very cold,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>Day still cloudy, though clearing up--air rather raw,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>Day clear, morning frosty, but at noon temperature delightful,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">29.</td><td>Day clear, frosty, at twelve most charming,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">30.</td><td>The same as yesterday,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">31.</td><td>Ditto, <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">1815.&nbsp;Jan.&nbsp;1.</td><td valign="bottom">Day frosty, very cold in the morning, ice of one-fourth of an inch on the pools; at twelve most delightful in the sun,</td><td
+valign="bottom" align="right">52</td><td
+valign="bottom">&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>Clear frosty day, very pleasant in the sun,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>Dark, cloudy, raw and cold; no going out,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>A clear frosty day, very cold, but pleasant in the sun,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>Intensely cold and cloudy; no sun,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>Intensely cold, a bitter wind, cloudy, and no sun,</td><td align="right">41</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>Not quite so cold, but raw, windy and disagreeable; snow at night,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>Very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>The same as yesterday,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>Air much milder; very pleasant in the sun,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>Cold and windy; air rather raw; the <i>mistral</i> blowing,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>Cold and windy; <i>mistral</i> blowing,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>Wind fallen, but cold continues; air more dry,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>Snow in the night, rain in the morning; cold and raw day,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>Cold, but more dry; no sun, very unpleasant, and every appearance of snow,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>Snow in the night, dry cold day, but brilliant and  powerful sun,</td><td align="right">41</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>Very high <i>mistral</i>, blowing intensely cold; air milder than yesterday,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>Still very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>Cold increased, hard frost; not wind,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>Cold continues, but not so severe,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>Clear frosty day, but cold diminished; delightful in the sun,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>Clear frosty day, but cold; sun very powerful</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>Clear frosty day, sun pleasant,</td><td align="right">48</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>Cloudy and damp, but air milder; no sun,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Rain the greater part of the day, cloudy and damp; air milder,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>Cloudy all day, but air milder,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>Cloudy and damp; but the air very mild,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span></td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">29.</td><td>Day clear and sunny, very pleasant</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">30.</td><td>Rainy all day long; air colder,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">31.</td><td>Day clears up, but air moist; air mild,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">Feb. 1.</td><td>Day cloudy and damp; air mild,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>Day very clear, delightful sun,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>Day cloudy and damp, air very mild,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>Day clear, very windy, but air very mild,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, but air colder,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, air mild</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span></td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span></td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>Day cloudy, a little rain, air colder,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>Day very cloudy, a little rain, air mild, but damp, heavy, and unpleasant,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span></td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>Day clearer, but still heavy, and rather damp; air mild</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>Day damp, cloudy, great deal of rain wind, air cold,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>Much the same,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>Fine clear day, sun very hot, air mild,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>Raw and damp, a little rain,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>Delightful day, but good deal of wind; sun very powerful,</td><td align="right">56</td><td>&frac34;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>Delightful day, no wind, sun very powerful,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>, high wind,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>, less wind,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span></td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">Mar. 1.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">61</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>Delightful day, sun very powerful,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">64</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>Ditto<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ditto</span>,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>Day damp and raw, rain in the evening,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>Fine day, but high wind,</td><td align="right">60</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>Day damp and raw,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>Day very cold, high wind, a little hail,</td><td align="right">52</td><td>&frac14;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>Cold and raw, high wind, and a little rain,</td><td align="right">54</td><td>&frac12;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="4"
+style="line-height:100px;">&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="4" align="center"
+style="line-height:100px;border-bottom:1px black solid;
+border-top:1px black solid;"><b>EDINBURGH.</b></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right">Dec.</td><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><i>Ther</i></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>Misty and damp--cleared up at mid-day, the thermometer rose to 54,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>Fine clear day,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>Mild and damp,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>Showery and disagreeable,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>Wind and rain,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>A great deal of rain and very stormy,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>Incessant rain--very windy at night,</td><td align="right">42</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>Heavy showers of rain and sleet,</td><td align="right">39</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>A fine clear day,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">31</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">37</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>A cold east wind,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>A very cold N. E. wind,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Cold wind and showers of snow,</td><td align="right">33</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>Cold wind and showers of snow,</td><td align="right">33</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>Cold north wind--damp and dark,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>Dark and damp,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">29.</td><td>A good deal of snow,</td><td align="right">33</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">30.</td><td>Stormy and tempestuous,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">31.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">1815<br />
+Jan. 1.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>Cloudy and damp,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>Cloudy,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>Very rainy,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>Mist and rain,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>Damp, and a good deal of rain,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>Clear frost--some snow,</td><td align="right">30</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>Wind and rain,</td><td align="right">42</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>Snow in the forenoon--a perfect tempest of wind and rain at night,</td><td align="right">33</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>A great deal of snow during the night,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>A fine day--snow melting,</td><td align="right">37</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">30</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>A good deal of rain,</td><td align="right">37</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>Very gloomy,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>Hard frost in the night--very gloomy,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>A great deal of snow,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>Snow,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>Clear fine day,</td><td align="right">31</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>Very hard frost in the night--fine day,</td><td align="right">25</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>Very cold,</td><td align="right">29</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Good day, but very cold,</td><td align="right">22</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>A great deal of snow,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>Snow--a cold north wind,</td><td align="right">34</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>Snow and hail,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">29.</td><td>Rain and snow--very wet,</td><td align="right">36</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">30.</td><td>Very wet and disagreeable,</td><td align="right">36</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">31.</td><td>A fine mild day,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">Feb. 1.</td><td>Very damp--heavy rain in the evening,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>Rain, and very thick mist,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>Damp and rainy,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>Damp and rainy,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>Very mild, but damp and cloudy,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>A fine day; rain in the evening,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>A very fine day; quite summer,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>A pretty good day; rather damp and cloudy,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>A fine forenoon, rain from two o'clock,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">13.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">14.</td><td>Cloudy and damp,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">15.</td><td>Cloudy and some rain,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">16.</td><td>Damp and showery,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">17.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">41</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">18.</td><td>Cloudy, and a cold N. E. wind,</td><td align="right">41</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">19.</td><td>Damp and rainy, very windy in the evening,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">20.</td><td>A cold north wind; showers of rain,</td><td align="right">42</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">21.</td><td>Showery,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">22.</td><td>A pretty good day, but windy,</td><td align="right">50</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">23.</td><td>Quite a summer day,</td><td align="right">49</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">24.</td><td>A good deal of rain in the morning,</td><td align="right">47</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">25.</td><td>Rain; very tempestuous at night,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">26.</td><td>A cold north wind,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">27.</td><td>A pretty good day,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+
+
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">28.</td><td>A charming summer day,</td><td align="right">48</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">Mar. 1</td><td>Rainy,</td><td align="right">48</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">2.</td><td>A very fine day,</td><td align="right">38</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">3.</td><td>A pretty good day, but windy,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">4.</td><td>A very fine day,</td><td align="right">42</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">5.</td><td>A fine day,</td><td align="right">45</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">6.</td><td>A very fine day,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">7.</td><td>A pretty good day, but a perfect tempest of wind and rain in the night,</td><td align="right">43</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">8.</td><td>A very good day,</td><td align="right">44</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">9.</td><td>Showers of snow,</td><td align="right">36</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">10.</td><td>A very cold north wind,</td><td align="right">32</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">11.</td><td>A very cold day,</td><td align="right">35</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align="right" valign="top">12.</td><td>A very cold wind, and showers of snow,</td><td align="right">40</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="c top15">FINIS.</p>
+
+<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Edinburgh</span>: Printed by <span class="smcap">John Pillans</span>, James's Court.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This statement, which we had from an officer who was with
+him at the time, may be easily reconciled with the account of the battle
+given by La Baume, which is in some measure inconsistent in its own
+parts.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> "See, Monsieur le Count,&mdash;said I, rising up, and laying
+some of King William's shillings on the table,&mdash;by jingling and rubbing
+one against another, for seventy years, in one body's pocket or another,
+they are become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling
+from another. The English, like ancient medals, keep more apart, and
+passing but few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the
+fine hand of nature has given them. They are not so pleasant to
+feel,&mdash;but, in return, the legend is so visible, that at the first look
+you see whose image and superscription they bear."
+</p><p>
+<i>Sentimental Journey</i>, Vol. II. p. 87.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> De l'Allemagne, tom. 2d. 303.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> "We have no more war."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> "Great silence."&mdash;"Ah! how terrible is this house! It is
+the house of God, and the gate of Heaven."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> "Don't be alarmed, Sir; this is nothing."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> "War! war!"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> A small bit of wood.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> "Adieu! to meet at supper."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> "It is well enough for the moment, but this will not last
+long."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> "He shewed at his sports, that spirit of tyranny which he
+has since manifested on the great stage of the world; and he who was
+doomed one day to make Europe tremble, commenced by being the master and
+terror of a troop of children."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> Such are the emphatic expressions made use of by a French
+gentleman, who took the trouble to draw up for me a short memoir,
+containing what he considered the most correct and well authenticated
+circumstances in the political life of Napoleon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> "Sire," said a General to him, while congratulating him on
+the victory of Montmirail, "what a glorious day, if we did not see
+around us so many towns and countries destroyed." "So much the better,"
+said Napoleon; "that supplies me with soldiers!"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> "Well, in an hour the ladies of Rheims will be in a fine
+fright."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> They seize him, they conduct him to the town-hall, before
+a military commission, which proceeds to his trial, or rather to his
+condemnation. An hour was scarce elapsed when an officer appears, orders
+the doors to be opened, and demands if sentence is pronounced. They tell
+him that the judges are about to put the question to the vote, "Let them
+instantly shoot him," said the officer; "this is the Emperor's order."
+The unfortunate Goualt is condemned.&mdash;The voice of mourning is heard
+throughout the whole city. The proprietor of the house which Bonaparte
+had chosen for his head-quarters solicits an audience; he obtains it.
+"Sire, (said M. Duchatel), a day of triumph ought to be a day of mercy;
+I come to entreat your Majesty to grant to the whole city of Troyes the
+pardon of one of her fellow-citizens, who has been condemned to death."
+"Begone! (said the tyrant, with a savage look), you forget that you are
+in my presence." It was 11 o'clock at night when the unfortunate man
+left the town-hall, escorted by gens-d'armes, and carrying, attached to
+his back and breast, a writing in large characters, in these words,
+"Traitor to his country," which was read by light of flambeaux. This
+heart-rending assembly advanced towards the market-place, appointed for
+the execution of criminals. There they wished to bind the eyes of the
+accused;&mdash;he refused, and said, with a firm voice, that he knew how to
+die for his King. He himself gave the signal to fire, and exclaiming,
+"Long live the King! Long live Louis XVIII!" he drew his last breath.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Revenge is their first law, lying the second, and to deny
+their God is the third.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> "The distinguishing features of this man are, lying and
+the love of life; I go to attack him, I shall beat him, and I shall see
+him at my feet demanding his life."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> "Promote this officer; for if you do not, he knows the way
+to promote himself."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> "To dissipate the royalists, and to batter the Parisians
+even at their firesides."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> "At break of day the Austrians commenced the attack, at
+first gently enough, afterwards more briskly, and at last with such
+fury, that the French were broken on all sides. At this frightful
+moment, when the dead and the dying strewed the earth, the first Consul,
+placed in the middle of his guard, appeared immoveable, insensible, and
+as if struck by thunder. In vain his Generals sent him their Aides de
+Camp, one after another, to demand assistance. In vain did the Aides de
+Camp wait his orders. He gave none. He scarcely exhibited signs of life.
+Many thought, that, believing the battle lost, he wished himself to be
+killed. Others, with more reason, persuaded themselves, that he had lost
+all power of thought, and that he neither heard nor saw what was said or
+what passed about him. General Berthier came to beg he would instantly
+withdraw; instead of answering him, he lay down on the ground. In the
+meantime, the French fled as fast as possible. The battle was lost, when
+suddenly we heard it said, that General Dessaix was coming up with fresh
+troops. Presently we saw him appear at their head. The runaways rallied
+behind his columns. Their courage returned&mdash;fortune changed. The French
+attacked in their turn, with the same fury with which, they had been
+attacked; they burned to efface the shame of their defeat in the
+morning."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> "I die regretting that I have not lived long enough for my
+country."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> We may lay it down as a maxim, that in every state the
+desire of glory exists with the liberty of the subjects, and diminishes
+with the same; glory is never the companion of servitude.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> "The youth of the present day are brought up in very
+different principles: the love of glory, above all, has taken deep root;
+it has become the distinguishing attribute of the national character,
+exalted by twenty years of continued success. But this very glory was
+become our idol; it absorbed all the thoughts of the brave fellows whose
+wounds had rendered them unfit for service&mdash;all the hopes of the
+youthful warriors who for the first time bore arms; an unlooked-for blow
+has been struck, and we now find in our hearts a blank similar to that
+which a lover feels who has lost the object of his passion; every thing
+he sees, every thing he hears, renews his grief. This sentiment renders
+our situation vague and painful; every one seeks to hide from himself
+the void which he feels exist in his heart. He is looked upon as
+humbled, after twenty years of continued triumph, for having lost a
+single stake, which unfortunately was the stake of honour, and which had
+become the rule of our destinies."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Caront's Memoir</span>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> "The French are the only people in the universe could
+laugh even while freezing."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> "Well, there's more materials&mdash;more flesh for the
+cannon!"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> "My faith, there's a fine consumption." The word
+<i>Consommation</i>, is also a mess, a finishing. It is not easy to say
+whether it was used in one or all of these senses by Napoleon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> "It was icy cold. The dying were yet breathing; the crowd
+of dead bodies, and the black gaps which the blood had made in the snow,
+were horribly contrasted. The staff were sensibly affected. The Emperor
+alone looked coolly on that scene of mourning and of blood. I pushed my
+horse a few paces before his, for I was anxious to observe him at such a
+moment. You would have said that he was devoid of every human feeling;
+that all that surrounded him existed but for him. He spoke coolly on the
+events of the evening before. In passing before a groupe of Russian
+grenadiers who had been massacred, the horse of one of the aides-de-camp
+started. The Emperor perceived it: "That horse (said he, coldly) is a
+coward."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> "Workmen who had just left their workshops, peasants
+escaped from the villages, with bonnets on their heads, and a staff in
+their hands, in six months became intrepid soldiers, and in two years
+skilful officers and generals, formidable to the oldest generals in
+Europe."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> "They cut down the crops of men three times a-year."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> "It is only under a government as wise and as great as
+yours, that a simple soldier like me could have formed the project of
+carrying the war into Egypt.&mdash;Yes, Directors, scarcely shall I be master
+of Egypt, and of the solitudes of Palestine, than England will give you
+a first rate ship of the line for a sack of corn."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> "If I present myself with troops (said Napoleon) it is
+only to please my friends, for in truth, I have the greatest desire of
+appearing there as of old; Louis XIV. appeared in the Parliament <i>in
+boots</i>, and a whip in his hand."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> "I am one of those whom men kill, but whom they cannot
+dishonour; in three months we shall have peace&mdash;either the enemy shall
+be chased from our territory, or I shall be no more."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> "I have called you around me to do good; you have done
+ill. You have among you persons devoted to England, who correspond with
+the Prince Regent, by means of the Advocate Deseze. Eleven-twelfths of
+you are good; the rest are factious. Return to your departments;&mdash;I
+shall have my eye on you. I am one whom men may kill, but whom they
+cannot dishonour. Who is he among you who could support the load of
+government. It has crushed the Constituent Assembly, which dictated laws
+to a weak king. The Fauxbourg St Antoine would have assisted me, but it
+would soon have abandoned you. What are become of the Jacobins, the
+Girondins, the Vergniaus, the Guadets, and so many others? They are
+dead. You have sought to <i>bespatter</i> me in the eyes of France. This is a
+heinous crime;&mdash;besides, what is the throne? Four pieces of gilded wood
+covered with velvet. I had pointed out to you a Secret Committee; it is
+there that you should have established your griefs. It was in the family
+that our <i>dirty linen should have been washed</i>. I have a title; you have
+none. What are you in the Constitution? Nothing. You have no authority.
+The Throne is the Constitution. Every thing is in the throne, and in me.
+I repeat it to you, you have among you factious persons. Mr Lainè is a
+wicked man; the rest are factious. I know them, and I shall pursue them.
+I ask you, Was it while the enemy were among us that you ought to have
+done such things? Nature has endowed me with great courage, it can
+resist every thing. Much has it cost my pride, but I have sacrificed it.
+But I am above your miserable declamations. I had need of
+consolation,&mdash;and you have dishonoured me. But no; my victories crush
+your complaints. I am one of those who triumph or who die. Return to
+your departments.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> "One of his Ministers one day addressed him, presenting
+him a report which he had desired. The subject was a conspiracy against
+his person. I was present at that scene; I expected, I confess, to see
+him enter in a fury, thunder forth against the traitors, threaten the
+magistrates, and accuse them of negligence. Not at all; he ran over the
+paper without the least sign of agitation. Judge of my surprise, or
+rather what sweet emotion I felt, when he pronounced these <i>touching and
+sublime</i> words:&mdash;Count, the state has not suffered, the magistrates have
+not been insulted. It was only my person they aimed at; I pity them for
+not knowing that my every wish is for the good of France; but every man
+may go astray. Tell the ungrateful men that I pardon them." Now, I defy
+the most faithful royalist, who should have witnessed such an action,
+not to exclaim&mdash;If Heaven was to give an usurper to France, let us thank
+it for having given this one! But stop, unfortunate one: your eyes have
+indeed seen, your ears have heard; believe nothing, but be present at
+the levee of this hero, so magnanimous, so little desirous of revenging
+himself. The doors are opened&mdash;Behold him! The crowd of courtiers
+surround him&mdash;all fix their eyes on him&mdash;his face is changed&mdash;the
+muscles are violently contracted&mdash;his whole appearance is that of a
+ruffian; a death-like silence reigns in the assembly&mdash;the Prince has not
+yet spoken, but he surveys the group: He perceives the same officer,
+who, two days before, had presented him the report. "Count (said he),
+are these vile conspirators executed? Are their accomplices in chains?
+Have the executioners given a new example to the imitators of those who
+aim at my life?"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> "You wish to see us drawn on hurdles to the scaffold."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> These nutshells.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Swords of honour&mdash;guns of honour.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> Saucepan of honour.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> "Moreau was conversing with the Emperor Alexander, from
+whom he was only distant half a horse's length. It is likely, that they
+perceived from the place this brilliant staff, and fired on it at
+random. Moreau alone was struck; a cannon-ball broke his right knee, and
+passing through the horse's side, carried off the flesh of his left leg.
+The generous Alexander shed tears. Colonel Rapatel rushed towards
+Moreau, who uttered a long sigh, and then fainted. Returned to himself,
+he spoke with the utmost coolness. He said to Monsieur Rapatel, "I am
+lost, my friend, but it is so glorious to die for such a cause, and
+under the eyes of so great a Prince!" A few minutes afterwards, he said
+to the Emperor Alexander himself, "Nothing remains, Sire, save the
+trunk; but the heart is there, and the head is your's." He must have
+suffered the most excruciating pain; but he called for a segar, and
+quietly began smoking. Mr Wylie, first surgeon to the Emperor, hastened
+to amputate the limb, which was most severely used. During this cruel
+operation, Moreau scarce shewed a change of countenance, and did not
+cease to smoke his segar. The amputation performed, Mr Wylie examined
+the right leg, and found it in such a state, that he could not refrain
+from expressing his terror. "I understand you," said Moreau, "you must
+cut off this one too.&mdash;Well, do it quickly.&mdash;However, I would rather
+have died." He wanted to write to his wife; and he wrote to her, with a
+steady hand, these words:&mdash;"<span class="smcap">My Dear Friend</span>,&mdash;The battle was decided
+three days ago.&mdash;I have had both legs carried off by a bullet&mdash;that
+rascal Bonaparte is always lucky. They have performed the amputation as
+well as possible. The army has made a retrograde movement, but it is not
+occasioned by any reverse, but from a man&#339;uvre, and in order to approach
+General Blucher.&mdash;Excuse my scribbling.&mdash;I love you, and I embrace you
+with all my heart. I have charged Rapatel to finish."&mdash;Immediately after
+this, he said, "I am not without danger, I know it well; but if I die,
+if a premature fate hurry me from a beloved wife and child&mdash;from my
+country, which I have wished to serve in spite of itself; do not forget
+to say to the French, who shall speak of me, that I die with the regret
+of not having accomplished my projects&mdash;To free my country from the
+frightful yoke that oppresses her;&mdash;to crush Bonaparte-every species of
+war, every possible means, were laudable. With what joy would I have
+consecrated the little talent I posses to the cause of humanity. My
+heart belonged to France."
+</p><p>
+At seven o'clock, the sick man finding himself alone with Mr Svinine,
+said to him, with a faint voice, "I must absolutely dictate a letter to
+you."&mdash;Mr Svinine took up the pen, and sighing, traced the few following
+lines, dictated by Moreau.
+</p>
+<hr class="ten" />
+<p>
+"<span class="smcap">Sire</span>,&mdash;I sink into the tomb with the same sentiments of respect,
+admiration, and devotion with which your Majesty has always inspired me,
+since I have had the happiness of approaching your person."
+</p><p>
+"In pronouncing these last words, the sick man stopped short and shut
+his eyes. Mr Svinine waited, thinking that Moreau was deliberating on
+the sequel of the letter&mdash;Vain hope&mdash;Moreau was no move."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> "Well, my good woman;&mdash;You expect the Emperor, don't you?"
+'Yes, Sir; I hope we shall have a sight of him.' "Well, my good woman,
+what do you folks say of the Emperor?" 'That he is a great villain.'
+"Eh, my good woman; and what do you yourself say?" 'Shall I tell you
+frankly, Sir, what I think?&mdash;If I were the captain of the ship, I would
+only take him on board to drown him.'</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> "The Commissaries, on arriving at Calade, found him with
+his head leaning on his two hands, and his face bathed in tears. He told
+them that people decidedly aimed at his life; and that the mistress of
+the inn, who had not known him, had told him that the Emperor was
+detested as a rascal, and that they would only embark him to drown him.
+He would eat or drink nothing, however pressed to it; and though he
+might have been assured by the example of those who were at table with
+him, he made them bring him some bread and water from his carriage,
+which he ate with avidity. They waited for night to continue the
+journey; they were only two leagues from Aix. The populace of that town
+would not have been so easily constrained, as in the other towns, where
+he had already run such risks. The Sub-Prefect, taking with him the
+Lieutenant and six of the gens-d'armes, rode towards Calade. The night
+was dark, and the weather very cold; which double circumstance protected
+Napoleon much better than would have been effected by the strongest
+escort. The Sub-Prefect and the guards met his suite a few instants
+after they had quitted Calade, and followed him till he arrived at the
+gates of Aix, at two in the morning. After having changed horses,
+Bonaparte continuing his route, passed under the walls of the town, and
+the reiterated cries of "Long live the King," which were shouted forth
+by the inhabitants assembled on the ramparts. Arrived at the limits of
+the Department, at an inn called the Great Pagere, he stopped there for
+breakfast. General Bertrand proposed to the Sub-Prefect to ascend to the
+room of the Commissaries, where all were at breakfast before his
+departure. Here were ten or twelve persons. Napoleon was of the number;
+he had the dress of an Austrian officer, and a helmet on his head.
+Seeing the Sub-Prefect in his councillor's habit, he said to him, "You
+would not have known me in this dress; it is these gentlemen who have
+made me take it, thinking it necessary to ensure my safety. I could have
+had an escort of 3000 men, which I refused, preferring to trust myself
+to French honour. I have not had reason to complain of that confidence
+from Fontainbleau to Avignon; but between that town and this, I have
+been insulted, and have been in great danger. The Provençals degrade
+themselves. Since I have been in France, I have not had a good regiment
+of Provençals under my orders. They are good for nothing but to make a
+noise. The Gascons are boasters, but at least they are brave."&mdash;At these
+words, one of the party, who no doubt was a Gascon, pulled out his shirt
+ruffle, and said, "that's pleasant." Bonaparte continuing to address
+himself to the Sub-Prefect, said to him, "What is the Prefect
+about?"&mdash;'He left this at the first news of the change which had
+happened at Paris.' "And his wife?" 'She had left it before.' "She then
+took the start. Do the people pay the revenue and the droits
+reunis?"&mdash;'Not a halfpenny.'&mdash;"Are there many English at Marseilles?"
+Here the Sub-Prefect related all that had lately passed in that port,
+and with what transports they had received the English. Bonaparte, who
+did not take much pleasure in such a recital, put an end to it, by
+saying to the Sub-Prefect, "Tell your Provençals that the Emperor is
+very ill pleased with them."
+</p><p>
+"Arrived at Bouilledon, he shut himself up in an apartment, with his
+sister (Pauline Borghese)&mdash;Sentinels were placed at the door.
+Notwithstanding which, some ladies arriving at the gallery, which
+communicated with that room, beheld there an officer in Austrian
+uniform, who said to them, "Ladies, what do you wish to see?" 'We wish
+to see Napoleon.' "But that's myself." The ladies, looking at him, said,
+smiling, 'You are joking, Sir; you are not Napoleon.' "I assure you,
+ladies, it is I.&mdash;What!&mdash;You thought Napoleon must have a more wicked
+appearance. Don't they say that I am a wretch, a rascal?"&mdash;The ladies
+did not care to undeceive him. Bonaparte, not wishing to press them hard
+on this subject, turned the conversation.&mdash;But always occupied with his
+first idea, he returned to it immediately.&mdash;"Acknowledge, at least,
+ladies, that now, when fortune is against me, they say that I am a
+wretch, a miscreant, and a marauder. But do you know the meaning of all
+this? I wished to make France superior to England, and I have failed in
+this project."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a> "When we are on the paved streets of Paris, we perceive
+that the people do not there make the laws;&mdash;no convenience for
+pedestrians&mdash;no side pavement; the people seem to be a body separated
+from the other orders of the state&mdash;the rich and the great who possess
+equipages, have the right of crushing and mutilating them in the
+streets&mdash;a hundred victims expire every year under the wheels of the
+carriages."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> "Before the revolution, the village contained four
+thousand inhabitants. It furnished, as its share to the general service
+of the church, and of the hospitals, as well as for the instruction of
+youth, five ecclesiastics, two sisters of charity, and three
+schoolmasters. These last are replaced by a riding-master, a
+drawing-master, and two music-masters. Out of eight manufactories of
+woollen and cotton stuffs, there remains but one. But in revenge, there
+are established two coffee-houses, one tobacco-shop, one restaurateur's
+shop, and one billiard-room, which flourish in a manner quite
+surprising. We reckoned formerly forty ploughmen. Twenty-five of these
+have become couriers, riders, and coachmen. Their place is filled up by
+women, who conduct the plough, and who, to amuse themselves, carry
+occasionally to the market, carts full of straw or of charcoal. The
+number of carpenters, masons, and other artisans, is diminished by about
+a half. But the price of all articles of workmanship having risen also
+one half; <i>it comes to the same thing, and a compensation is
+established</i>. One class of individuals, which the villages furnishes in
+great abundance, and in much too great a proportion, are livery servants
+and domestics of luxury. Whilst this lasts, the country will be
+depopulated of all those useful ranks who cultivate the soil, and the
+towns will be peopled with the idle and corrupt. Many women and young
+girls, who were only sempstresses and under servants, have found
+advancement in the great cities, and in the capital. They have become
+waiting maids, embroiderers, and milliners. One might say that luxury
+had exhausted our youth; all eyes are turned towards it, and it alone
+occupies every thought. Never, at any former period, did the contingent
+in lawyers, bailiffs, law students, physicians, and artists, exceed
+three or four; it is now raised to sixty-two: and what we should never
+have conceived in former days, there are now among us as many painters,
+poets, comedians, opera dancers, and travelling musicians, as a city of
+eighty thousand souls would have furnished thirty or forty years ago."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> The variety of the laws and customs is attended with this
+effect, that the most intelligent advocate becomes as ignoramus when he
+finds himself in Gascony or in Normandy. He loses at Vernon a case which
+he had gained at Poissy. Select the most skilful for a consultation or
+for pleading; well, he will be under the necessity of having his
+advocate and his attorney, if we commit to his care a cause in most of
+the other courts.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> "I can excuse, but do not envy those who can live as if
+they had neither suffered nor seen others suffer; but they must pardon
+me, who am unable to imitate them. These days of total and unheard-of
+degradation in human nature are yet before my eyes, press heavily on my
+soul, and fall incessantly from my pen, destined to retrace them even to
+my last hour."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> The reader will easily perceive, that the end of this
+chapter was written at the time of Napoleon's landing from Elba. Not a
+word of it has been altered, for the author is convinced that it is an
+accurate picture of France in its present state.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> "A Frenchman, (says Madame de Stael, with great truth,)
+can still continue to speak, even when he has no ideas."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> "Their trifling, naturally intended for the toilet, seems
+to have become accessary to the formation of the general character of
+the nation: They trifle in council, they trifle at the head of an army,
+they trifle with an ambassador."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> "Gentlemen, it is impossible to deceive persons
+enlightened as you are; I am absolutely going to cut off the head of
+this child: But before commencing, I must let you see that I am no
+quack. Well, in the meantime, as an exordium, Who is there among you who
+has the toothache?" "I," exclaimed instantly a sturdy peasant, &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> "Gentlemen, in the universe there is but one sun; in the
+kingdom of France there is but one king; in the science of medicine
+there is Charini alone."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> "You are a Scotchman?" 'Yes, Sir.' "Oh, how droll that
+is." 'And how is it droll, Sir?' "It is the country of Napoleon. It is
+an island, is it not?" 'Certainly not, Sir.' "On my faith, I thought
+they always called it the Island of Corse."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> "Give a supper; that will make every body run."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> "Even if Old Nick should ring his supper-bell, The French
+would lick their lips, and flock to H&mdash;II."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> "Down with the tyrant! Down with the soldiers! Long live
+the Emperor! Long live the Marshals! Long live the army! Long live
+Louis, the wished-for Monarch! Long live the descendant of Good Henry
+IV.! Long live the nation! No feudal laws! No Kings! No nobility! No
+assessed taxes! No conscription."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> "Long life to death!"</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> "Who, after having sacrificed millions of victims, could
+not die like a soldier."</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<table summary="errata" class="top15"
+cellspacing="0"
+cellpadding="5">
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center">ERRATA. [Transcriber's note: already corrected.]</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">Page 20.</td><td>line 3. for <i>a</i> read <i>est</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">21.</td><td>18. after <i>sont</i> insert <i>de</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">97.</td><td>6. for <i>les</i> read <i>des</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">156.</td><td>last line, for <i>c'est</i> read <i>ce m'est</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">272.</td><td>line  20. for <i>des</i> read <i>de</i>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">273.</td><td>17. for <i>des</i> read <i>de</i>.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="full" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years
+1814-1815, by Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #27410 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/27410)
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years 1814-1815, by 
+Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Travels in France during the years 1814-1815
+       Comprising a residence at Paris, during the stay of the
+       allied armies, and at Aix, at the period of the landing
+       of Bonaparte, in two volumes.
+
+Author: Archibald Alison
+        Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+Release Date: December 4, 2008 [EBook #27410]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN FRANCE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net
+(Produced from images of the Bibliothèque nationale de
+France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS
+
+1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX,
+
+_AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF_
+
+BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREDIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52. PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST. REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK,
+
+PARRY, AND CO. T. UNDERWOOD, LONDON;
+
+AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+[Transcriber's note: The original spellings have been maintained; the
+French spelling and accentuation have not been corrected, but left as
+they appear in the original.]
+
+
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+A Second Edition of the following Work having been demanded by the
+Booksellers, the Author has availed himself of the opportunity to
+correct many verbal inaccuracies, to add some general reflections, and
+to alter materially those parts of it which were most hastily prepared
+for the press, particularly the Journal in the Second Volume, by
+retrenching a number of particulars of partial interest, and
+substituting more general observations on the state of the country,
+supplied by his own recollection and that of his fellow-travellers.
+
+He has only farther to repeat here, what he stated in the Advertisement
+to the first Edition, that the whole materials of the Publication were
+collected in France, partly by himself, during a residence which the
+state of his health had made adviseable in Provence, and partly by some
+friends who had preceded him in their visit to France, and were at Paris
+during the time when it was first occupied by the Allied Armies;--and
+that he has submitted it to the world, merely in the hope of adding
+somewhat to the general stock of information regarding the situation,
+character, and prospects of the French people, which it is so desirable
+that the English Public should possess.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Paris
+
+II. Paris--The Allied Armies
+
+III. Paris--Its Public Buildings
+
+IV. Environs of Paris
+
+V. Paris--The Louvre
+
+VI. Paris--The French Character and Manners
+
+VII. Paris--The Theatres
+
+VIII. Paris--The French Army and Imperial Government
+
+IX. Journey to Flanders
+
+
+VOLUME II.
+
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Aix
+
+II. Residence at Aix, and Journey to Bourdeaux
+
+III. State of France under Napoleon--Anecdotes of him
+
+IV. State of France under Napoleon--continued
+
+V. State of Society and Manners in France
+
+Register of the Weather
+
+
+
+
+VOLUME FIRST.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS.
+
+
+We passed through Kent in our way to France, on Sunday the first of May
+1814. This day's journey was very delightful. The whole scenery around
+us,--the richness of the fields and woods, then beginning to assume the
+first colours of spring; the extent and excellence of the cultivation;
+the thriving condition of the towns, and the smiling aspect of the neat
+and clean villages through which we passed; the luxuriant bloom of the
+fruit-trees surrounding them; the number of beautiful villas adapted to
+the accommodation of the middle ranks of society, the crowds of
+well-dressed peasantry going to and returning from church; the frank
+and cheerful countenances of the men, and beauty of the women--all
+presented a most pleasing spectacle. If we had not proposed to cross the
+channel, we should have compared all that we now saw with our
+recollections of Scotland; and the feeling of the difference, although
+it might have increased our admiration, would perhaps have made us less
+willing to acknowledge it. But when we were surveying England with a
+view to a comparison with France, the difference of its individual
+provinces was overlooked;--we took a pride in the apparent happiness and
+comfort of a people, of whom we knew nothing more, than that they were
+our countrymen; and we rejoiced, that the last impression left on our
+minds by the sight of our own country, was one which we already
+anticipated that no other could efface.
+
+Our passage to Calais was rendered very interesting, by the number of
+Frenchmen who accompanied us. Some of these were emigrants, who had
+spent the best part of their lives in exile; the greater part were
+prisoners of various ranks, who had been taken at different periods of
+the war. There was evidently the greatest diversity of character, of
+prospects, of previous habits, and of political and moral sentiments
+among these men; the only bond that connected them was, the love of
+their common country; and at a moment for which they had been so long
+and anxiously looking, this was sufficient to repress all jealousy and
+discord, and to unite them cordially and sincerely in the sentiment
+which was expressed, with true French enthusiasm, by one of the party,
+as we left the harbour of Dover,--"Voila notre chere France,--A present
+nous sommes tous amis!"
+
+As we proceeded, the expression of their emotions, in words, looks, and
+gestures, was sometimes extremely pleasing, at other times irresistibly
+ludicrous, but always characteristic of a people whose natural feelings
+are quick and lively, and who have no idea of there being any dignity or
+manliness in repressing, or concealing them. When the boat approached
+the French shore, a fine young officer, who had been one of the most
+amusing of our companions, leapt from the prow, and taking up a handful
+of sand, kissed it with an expression of ardent feeling and enthusiastic
+joy, which it was delightful to observe.
+
+It is only on occasions of this kind, that the whole strength of the
+feeling of patriotism is made known. In the ordinary routine of civil
+life, this feeling is seldom awakened. In the moments of national
+enthusiasm and exultation, it is often mingled with others. But in
+witnessing the emotions of the French exiles and captives, on returning
+to their wasted and dishonoured country, we discerned the full force of
+those moral ties, by which, even in the most afflicting circumstances of
+national humiliation and disaster, the hearts of men are bound to the
+land of their fathers.
+
+We landed, on the evening of the 2d, about three miles from Calais, and
+walked into the town. The appearance of the country about Calais does
+not differ materially from that in the immediate neighbourhood of Dover,
+which is much less fertile than the greater part of Kent; but the
+cottages are decidedly inferior to the English. The first peculiarity
+that struck us was the grotesque appearance of the _Douaniers_, who came
+to examine us on the coast; and when we had passed through the numerous
+guards, and been examined at the guard-houses, previously to our
+admission into the town, the gates of which had been shut, we had
+already observed, what subsequent observation confirmed, that the air
+and manner which we call military are in very little estimation among
+the French soldiers. The general appearance of the French soldiery
+cannot be better described than it has been by Mr Scott: "They seemed
+rather the fragments of broken-up gangs, than the remains of a force
+that had been steady, controlled, and lawful." They have almost
+uniformly, officers and men, much expression of intelligence, and often
+of ferocity, in their countenances, and much activity in their
+movements; but there are few of them whom an Englishman, judging from
+his recollection of English soldiers, would recognise to belong to a
+regular army.
+
+The lower orders of inhabitants in Calais hailed the arrival of the
+English strangers with much pleasure, loudly proclaiming, however, the
+interested motives of their joy. A number of blackguard-looking men
+gathered round us, recommending their own services, and different
+hotels, with much vehemence, and violent altercations among themselves;
+and troops of children followed, crying, "Vivent les Anglois--Give me
+one sous." In our subsequent travels, we were often much amused by the
+importunities of the children, who seem to beg, in many places, without
+being in want, and are very ingenious in recommending themselves to
+travellers; crying first, Vive le Roi; if that does not succeed, Vive
+l'Empereur; that failing, Vive le Roi d'Angleterre; and professing
+loyalty to all the sovereigns of Europe, rather than give up the hopes
+of a _sous_.
+
+Having reached the principal inn, we found that all the places in the
+diligence for Paris were taken for the ten following days. By this time,
+in consequence of the communication with France being opened, several
+new coaches had been established between London and Dover, but no such
+measure had been thought of on the road between Calais and Paris. There
+was no want of horses, as we afterwards found, belonging to the inns on
+the roads, but this seemed to indicate strongly want of ready money
+among the innkeepers. However, there were at Calais a number of
+"voitures" of different kinds, which had been little used for several
+years; one of which we hired from a "magasin des chaises," which
+reminded us of the Sentimental Journey, and set out at noon on the 3d,
+for Paris, accompanied by a French officer who had been a prisoner in
+Scotland, and to whose kindness and attentions we were much indebted.
+
+We were much struck with the appearance of poverty and antiquity about
+Calais, which afforded a perfect contrast to the Kentish towns; and all
+the country towns, through which we afterwards passed in France,
+presented the same general character. The houses were larger than those
+of most English country towns, but they were all old; in few places out
+of repair, but nowhere newly built, or even newly embellished. There
+were no newly painted houses, windows, carriages, carts, or even
+sign-posts; the furniture, and all the interior arrangements of the
+inns, were much inferior to those we had left; their external appearance
+stately and old-fashioned; the horses in the carriages were caparisoned
+with white leather, and harnessed with ropes; the men who harnessed them
+were of mean appearance, and went about their work as if they had many
+other kinds of work to do. There were few carts, and hardly any
+four-wheeled carriages to be seen in the streets; and it was obvious
+that the internal communications of this part of the country were very
+limited. There appeared to be few houses fitted for the residence of
+persons of moderate incomes, and hardly any villas about the town to
+which they might retire after giving up business. All the lower ranks of
+people, besides being much worse looking than the English, were much
+more coarsely clothed, and they seemed utterly indifferent about the
+appearance of their dress. Very few of the men wore beaver hats, and
+hardly two had exactly the same kind of covering for their heads.
+
+The dress of the women of better condition, particularly their
+high-crowned bonnets, and the ruffs about their necks, put us in mind of
+the pictures of old English fashions. The lower people appeared to bear
+a much stronger resemblance to some of the Highland clans, and to the
+Welch, than to any other inhabitants of Britain.
+
+On the road between Calais and Boulogne, we began to perceive the
+peculiarities of the husbandry of this part of France. These are just
+what were described by Arthur Young; and although it is possible, as the
+natives uniformly affirm, that the agriculture has improved since the
+revolution, this improvement must be in the details of the operations,
+and in the extent of land under tillage, not in the principles of the
+art. The most striking to the eye of a stranger are the want of
+enclosures, the want of pasture lands and of green crops, and the
+consequent number of bare fallows, on many of which a few sheep and
+long-legged lean hogs are turned out to pick up a miserable subsistence.
+The common rotation appears to be a three year's one; fallow, wheat, and
+oats or barley. On this part of the road, the ground is almost all under
+tillage, but the soil is poor; there is very little wood, and the
+general appearance of the country is therefore very bleak. In the
+immediate neighbourhood of Boulogne, it is better clothed, and varied
+by some pasture fields and gardens. The ploughs go with wheels. They are
+drawn by only two horses, but are clumsily made, and evidently inferior
+to the Scotch ploughs. They, as well as the carts, are made generally of
+green unpeeled wood, like those in the Scotch Highlands, and are never
+painted. This absence of all attempt to give an air of neatness or
+smartness to any part of their property--this indifference as to its
+appearance, is a striking characteristic of the French people over a
+great part of the country.
+
+It is likewise seen, as before observed, in the dress of the lower
+orders; but here it is often combined with a fantastic and ludicrous
+display of finery. An English dairy-maid or chamber-maid, ploughman or
+groom, shopkeeper or mechanic, has each a dress consistent in its parts,
+and adapted to the situation and employment of the wearer. But a country
+girl in France, whose bed-gown and petticoat are of the coarsest
+materials, and scantiest dimensions, has a pair of long dangling
+ear-rings, worth from 30 to 40 francs. A carter wears an opera hat, and
+a ballad-singer struts about in long military boots; and a blacksmith,
+whose features are obscured by the smoke and dirt which have been
+gathering on them for weeks, and whose clothes hang about him in
+tatters, has his hair newly frizzled and powdered, and his long queue
+plaited on each side, all down his back, with the most scrupulous
+nicety.
+
+Akin to this shew of finery in some parts of their dress, utterly
+inconsistent with the other parts of it, and with their general
+condition, is the disposition of the lower orders in France, even in
+their intercourse with one another, to ape the manners of their
+superiors. "An English peasant," as Mr Scott has well remarked, "appears
+to spurn courtesy from him, in a bitter sense of its inapplicability to
+his condition." This feeling is unknown in France. A French soldier
+hands his "bien aimée" into a restaurateur's of the lowest order and
+supplies her with fruits and wine, with the grace and foppery of a
+Parisian "petit maitre," and with the gravity of a
+"philosophe."--"Madame," says a scavenger in the streets of Paris,
+laying his hand on his heart, and making a low bow to an old woman
+cleaning shoes at the door of an inn, "J'espere que vous vous portez
+bien."--"Monsieur," she replies, dropping a curtsey with an air of
+gratitude and profound respect, "Vous me faites d'honneur; je me porte a
+merveille."
+
+This peculiarity of manner in the lower orders, will generally, it is
+believed, be found connected with their real degradation and
+insignificance in the eyes of their superiors. It is precisely because
+they are not accustomed to look with respect to those of their own
+condition, and because their condition is not respected by others, that
+they imitate the higher ranks. An English coachman or stable-boy is
+taught to believe, that a certain demeanour befits his situation; and he
+will certainly expose himself to more sneers and animadversions, by
+assuming the manners of the rank next above him in society, than the
+highest peer of the realm will by assuming his. But Frenchmen of the
+same rank are fain to seek that respectability from manner, which is
+denied to the lowness of their condition, and the vulgarity of their
+occupation; and they therefore assume the manner which is associated in
+their minds, and in the minds of their observers, with situations
+acknowledged to be respectable.
+
+It is also to be observed, that the power of ridicule, which has so much
+influence in the formation of manner, is much less in France than in
+England. The French have probably more relish for true wit than any
+other people; but their perception of humour is certainly not nearly so
+strong as that of our countrymen. Their ridicule is seldom excited by
+the awkward attempts of a stranger to speak their language, and as
+seldom by the inconsistencies which appear to us ludicrous in the dress
+and behaviour of their countrymen.
+
+These causes, operating gradually for a length of time, have probably
+produced that remarkable politeness of manners which is so pleasing to a
+stranger, in a number of the lower orders in France, and which appears
+so singular at the present time, as revolutionary ideas, military
+habits, and the example of a military court, have given a degree of
+roughness, and even ferocity, to the manners of many of the higher
+orders of Frenchmen, with which it forms a curious contrast. It is,
+however, in its relation to Englishmen at least, a fawning, cringing,
+interested politeness; less truly respectable than the obliging civility
+of the common people in England, and in substance, if not in appearance,
+still farther removed from the frank, independent, disinterested
+courtesy of the Scottish Highlanders.
+
+* * *
+
+Our entry into Boulogne was connected with several striking
+circumstances. To an Englishman, who, for many years, had heard of the
+mighty preparations which were made by the French in the port of
+Boulogne for the invasion of this country, the first view of this town
+could not but be peculiarly interesting. We accordingly got out of our
+_voiture_ as quickly as possible, and walked straight to the harbour.
+Here the first objects that presented themselves were, on one side, the
+last remains of the grand flotilla, consisting of a few hulks,
+dismantled and rotting in the harbour; on the other side, the Prussian
+soldiers drawn up in regiments on the beach. Nothing could have recalled
+to our minds more strongly the strength of that power which our country
+had so long opposed, nor the magnificent result which had at length
+attended her exertions. The forces destined for the invasion, and which
+were denominated by anticipation the army of England, had been encamped
+around the town. The characteristic arrogance--the undoubting
+anticipation of victory--the utter thoughtlessness--the unsinking
+vivacity of the French soldiery, were then at the highest pitch. Some
+little idea of the gay and light-hearted sentiments with which they
+contemplated the invasion of England, may be formed from the following
+song, which was sung to us with unrivalled spirit and gesticulation, as
+we came in sight of Boulogne, by our fellow-traveller, who had himself
+served in the army of England, and who informed us it was then commonly
+sung in the ranks.
+
+    SONG.
+
+    Français! le bal va se r'ouvrir,
+    Et vous aimez la danse,
+    L'Allemande vient de finir,
+    Mais l'Anglaise commence.
+
+    D'y figurer tous nous Français
+    Seront parbleu bien aises,
+    Car s'ils n'aiment pas les Anglais,
+    Ils aiment les Anglaises.
+
+    D'abord par le pas de Calais
+    Il faut entrer en danse,
+    Le son des instrumens Français
+    Marquera la cadence;
+
+    Et comme les Anglais ne scanroient
+    Que danser les Anglaises,
+    Bonaparte leur montrera
+    Les figures Françaises.
+
+    Allons mes amis de grand rond,
+    En avant, face a face,
+    Français le bas, restez d'a plomb,
+    Anglais changez les places.
+
+    Vous Monsieur Pitt vous balancez,
+    Formez la chaine Anglaise,
+    Pas de cotè--croisez--chassez--
+    C'est la danse Française!
+
+The humour of this song depends on the happy application of the names of
+the French dances, and the terms employed in them, to the subjects on
+which it is written, the conclusion of the German campaigns, and the
+meditated invasion of England.
+
+The Prussians who were quartered at Boulogne, and all the adjoining
+towns and villages, belonged to the corps of General Von York. Most of
+the infantry regiments were composed in part of young recruits, but the
+old soldiers, and all the cavalry, had a truly military appearance; and
+their swarthy weather-beaten countenances, their coarse and patched, but
+strong and serviceable dresses and accoutrements, the faded embroidery
+of their uniforms, and the insignia of orders of merit with which almost
+all the officers, and many of the men, were decorated, bore ample
+testimony to their participation in the labours and the honours of the
+celebrated army of Silesia.
+
+Some of them who spoke French, when we enquired where they had been,
+told us, in a tone of exultation, rather than of arrogance, that they
+had entered Paris--"le sabre a la main."
+
+The appearance of the country is considerably better in Picardy than in
+Artois, but the general features do not materially vary until you reach
+the Oise. The peasantry seem to live chiefly in villages, through which
+the road passes, and the cottages composing which resemble those of
+Scotland more than of England. They are generally built in rows; many of
+them are white-washed, but they are very dirty, and have generally no
+gardens attached to them; and a great number of the inhabitants seem
+oppressed with poverty to a degree unknown in any part of Britain. The
+old and infirm men and women who assembled round our carriage, when it
+stopped in any of these villages, to ask for alms, appeared in the most
+abject condition; and so far from observing, as one English traveller
+has done, that there are few beggars in France, it appeared to us that
+there are few inhabitants of many of these country villages who are
+ashamed to beg.
+
+To this unfavourable account of the aspect of this part of France, there
+are, however, exceptions: We were struck with the beauty of the village
+of Nouvion, between Montreuil and Abbeville, which resembles strongly
+the villages in the finest counties of England: The houses here have all
+gardens surrounding them, which are the property of the villagers. In
+the neighbourhood of Abbeville, and of Beauvais, there are also some
+neat villages; and the country around these towns is rich, and well
+cultivated, and beautifully diversified with woods and vineyards; and,
+in general, in advancing southwards, the country, though still
+uninclosed, appears more fertile and better clothed. Many of the
+villages are surrounded with orchards, and long rows of fruit-trees
+extend from some of them for miles together along the sides of the
+roads; long regular rows of elms and Lombardy poplars are also very
+common, particularly on the road sides; and, in some places, chateaux
+are to be seen, the situation of which is generally delightful; but most
+of them are uninhabited, or inhabited by poor people, who do not keep
+them in repair; and their deserted appearance contributes even more than
+the straight avenues of trees, and gardens laid out in the Dutch taste,
+which surround them, to confirm the impression of _antiquity_ which is
+made on the mind of an Englishman, by almost all that he sees in
+travelling through France.
+
+The roads in this, as in many other parts of the country, are paved in
+the middle, straight, and very broad, and appear adapted to a much more
+extensive intercourse than now exists between the different provinces.
+
+The country on the banks of the Oise, (which we crossed at Beaumont),
+and from thence to Paris, is one of the finest parts of France. The
+road passes, almost the whole way, through a majestic avenue of elm
+trees: Instead of the continual recurrence of corn fields and fallows,
+the eye is here occasionally relieved by the intervention of fields of
+lucerne and saintfoin, orchards and vineyards; the country is rich, well
+clothed with wood, and varied with rising grounds, and studded with
+chateaux; there are more carriages on the roads and bustle in the inns,
+and your approach to the capital is very obvious. Yet there are strong
+marks of poverty in the villages, which contain no houses adapted to the
+accommodation of the middling ranks of society; the soil is richer, but
+the implements of agriculture, and the system of husbandry, are very
+little better than in Picardy: the cultivation, every where tolerable,
+is nowhere excellent; there are no new farm-houses or farm-steadings; no
+signs of recent agricultural improvements; and the chateaux, in general,
+still bear the aspect of desertion and decay.
+
+This last peculiarity of French scenery is chiefly owing to the great
+subdivision of property which has taken place in consequence of the
+confiscation of church lands, and properties of the noblesse and
+emigrants, and of the subsequent sale of the national domains, at very
+low or even nominal prices, to the lower orders of the peasantry. To
+such a degree has this subdivision extended, that in many parts of
+France there is no proprietor of land who does not labour with his own
+hands in the cultivation of his property. The influence of this state of
+property on the prosperity of France, and the gradual changes which it
+will undergo in the course of time, will form an interesting study for
+the political economist; but in the mean time, it will almost prevent
+the possibility of collecting an adequate number of independent and
+enlightened men to represent the landed interest of France in any system
+of national representation.
+
+In travelling from Calais to Paris, we did not observe so great a want
+of men in the fields and villages as we had been led to expect. The men
+whom we saw, however, were almost all above the age of the conscription.
+In several places we saw women holding the plough; but in general, the
+proportion of women to men employed in the fields, appeared hardly
+greater than may be seen during most of the operations of husbandry in
+the best cultivated districts of Scotland. On inquiry among the
+peasants, we found the conscription, and the whole of Bonaparte's system
+of government, held in much abhorrence, particularly among the women;
+yet they did not appear to feel it so deeply as we had anticipated; and
+of him, individually, they were more disposed to speak in terms of
+ridicule than of indignation. "Il est parti pour l'ile d'Elbe (said
+they)--bon voyage!" It was obvious that public affairs, even in those
+critical moments, occupied much less of their attention than of persons
+of the same rank in England: their spirits are much less easily
+depressed; and it was easy to see that their domestic affections are
+less powerful. The men shewed much jealousy of the allied troops: said
+they were superior to the French only in numbers; and often repeated,
+that one French soldier was equal to two Russians.
+
+Although the old men and women whom we saw in the villages were
+generally in the most abject condition, yet the labourers employed in
+the fields appeared nearly as well dressed as the corresponding class in
+England; their wages were stated to be, over most of the country, from
+one franc to 25 sous a-day, and in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris,
+to be as high as two, or even three francs. In some places, we saw them
+dining on bread, pork, and cyder; but the scarcity of live stock was
+such, that it was impossible to suppose that they usually enjoyed so
+good a fare. The interior of the cottages appeared, generally, to be ill
+furnished.
+
+Every village and town through which we passed between Boulogne and
+Paris contained a number of the allied troops. At Beauvais, a town
+remarkable for its singular appearance, being almost entirely built of
+wood, and likewise for the beauty of its cathedral, the choir of which
+is reckoned the finest in France, we were first gratified with the sight
+of some hundreds of Russians, horse and foot, under arms. These troops
+were of the finest description, and belonged to the corps of the
+celebrated Wigtenstein.
+
+We enquired of many of the lower people, in the towns and villages
+through which we passed, concerning the conduct of the allied troops in
+their quarters, and the answers were almost uniformly--from the men,
+"Ils se comportent bien;" (frequently with the addition, "mais ils
+mangent comme des diables:")--and from the women, "Ils sont de bons
+enfans." We had very frequent opportunities of remarking the truth of
+the observation, that "women have less bitterness against the enemies of
+their country than men." The Parisian ladies adopted fashions from the
+uniforms of almost all the allied troops whom they saw in Paris; many of
+them were exceedingly anxious for opportunities of seeing the Emperor of
+Russia, and the most distinguished leaders of the armies that had
+conquered France; and those who were acquainted with officers of rank
+belonging to these armies appeared, on all occasions, to be highly
+flattered with the attentions they received from them. The same was
+observable in the conduct of the lower ranks. In the suburbs of Paris,
+and in the neighbouring villages, where many of the allied troops were
+quartered, they appeared always on the best terms with the female
+inhabitants, and were often to be seen assisting them in their work,
+playing at the battledore and shuttlecock with them in the streets, or
+strolling in their company along the banks of the Seine, and through the
+woods of Belleville or St Cloud, evidently to the satisfaction of both
+parties. Much must be allowed for the national levity of the French; yet
+it may be doubted, whether the officers and soldiers of a victorious
+army are ever, in the first instance, very obnoxious to the females,
+even of a vanquished country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+PARIS--THE ALLIED ARMIES.
+
+
+To those whose attention had been long fixed on the great political
+revulsion which had brought the wandering tribes of the Wolga and the
+Don into the heart of France, and whose minds had been incessantly
+occupied for many months previous to the time of which we speak, (as the
+minds of almost all Englishmen had been), with wishes for the success,
+and admiration of the exploits, of the brave troops who then occupied
+Paris, it may naturally be supposed, that even all the wonders of that
+capital were, in the first instance, objects of secondary consideration.
+It was not until our curiosity had been satisfied by the sight of the
+Emperor Alexander, the Duke of Wellington, Marshal Blucher, Count
+Platoff, and such numbers of the Russian and Prussian officers and
+soldiers, as we considered a fair specimen of the whole armies, that we
+could find time to appreciate the beauties even of the Apollo and the
+Venus.
+
+The streets of Paris are always amusing and interesting, from the
+numbers and varieties of costumes and characters which they present; but
+at the time of which we speak, they might be considered as exhibiting an
+epitome of the greater part of Europe. Parties of Russian cuirassiers,
+Prussian lancers, and Hungarian hussars; Cossacks, old and young, from
+those whose beards were grey with age, to those who were yet beardless,
+cantering along after their singular fashion--their long lances poised
+on their stirrups, and loosely fastened to their right arms, vibrating
+over their heads; long files of Russian and Prussian foragers, and long
+trains of Austrian baggage waggons, winding slowly through the crowd;
+idle soldiers of all services, French as well as allied, lounging about
+in their loose great coats and trowsers, with long crooked pipes hanging
+from their mouths; patroles of infantry parading about under arms,
+composed half of Russian grenadiers, and half of Parisian national
+guards; Russian coaches and four, answering to the description of Dr
+Clarke, the postillions riding on the off-horses, and dressed almost
+like beggars; Russian carts drawn by four horses a-breast, and driven by
+peasants in the national costume; Polish Jews, with long black beards,
+dressed in black robes like the cassocks of English clergymen, with
+broad leathern belts--all mingled with the Parisian multitude upon the
+Boulevards: and in the midst of this indiscriminate assemblage, all the
+business, and all the amusements of Paris, went on with increased
+alacrity and fearless confidence. The Palais Royal was crowded, morning,
+noon, and night, with Russian and Prussian officers in full uniform,
+decorated with orders, whose noisy merriment, cordial manners, and
+careless profusion, were strikingly contrasted with the silence and
+sullenness of the French officers.
+
+It is fortunately superfluous for us to enlarge on the appearance, or on
+the character of the Emperor Alexander. We were struck with the
+simplicity of the style in which he lived. He inhabited only one or two
+apartments in a wing of the splendid Elysee Bourbon--slept on a leather
+mattress, which he had used in the campaign--rose at four in the
+morning, to transact business--wore the uniform of a Russian General,
+with only the medal of 1812, (the same which is worn by every soldier
+who served in that campaign, with the inscription, in Russ, _Non nobis
+sed tibi Domine_); had a French guard at his door--went out in a chaise
+and pair, with a single servant and no guards, and was very regular in
+his attendance at a small chapel, where the service of the Greek church
+was performed. We had access to very good information concerning him,
+and the account which we received of his character even exceeded our
+anticipation. His well-known humanity was described to us as having
+undergone no change from the scenes of misery inseparable from extended
+warfare, to which his duties, rather than his inclinations, had so long
+habituated him. He repeatedly left behind him, in marching with the
+army, some of the medical men of his own staff, to dress the wounds of
+French soldiers whom he passed on the way; and it was a standing order
+of his to his hospital staff, to treat wounded Russians and French
+exactly alike.
+
+His conduct at the battle of Fere Champenoise, a few days before the
+capture of Paris, of which we had an account from eye-witnesses, may
+give an idea of his conduct while with the armies. The French column,
+consisting of about 5000 infantry, with some artillery, was attacked by
+the advanced guard of the allies, consisting of cavalry, with some
+horse-artillery, under his immediate orders. It made a desperate
+resistance, and its capture being an object of great importance, he sent
+away all his guards, even the Cossacks, and exposed himself to the fire
+of musketry for a long time, directing the movements of the troops. When
+the French squares were at length broken by the repeated charges of
+cavalry and Cossacks, he threw himself into the middle of them, at a
+great personal risk, that he might restrain the fury of the soldiers,
+exasperated by the obstinacy of the resistance; and although he could
+not prevent the whole French officers and men from being completely
+pillaged, many of them owed their lives to his interference. The French
+commander was brought to him, and offered him his sword, which he
+refused to accept, saying, he had defended himself too well.
+
+The wife and children of a General who had been with the French army,
+were brought to him, and he placed a guard over them, which was
+overpowered in the confusion. The unfortunate woman was never more heard
+of, but he succeeded in recovering the children, had a bed made for them
+in his own tent, and kept them with him, until he reached Paris, when he
+ordered enquiry to be made for some of her relations, to whose care he
+committed them.
+
+He was uniformly represented to us as a man not merely of the most
+amiable dispositions, but of superior understanding, of uncommon
+activity, and of a firm decided turn of mind. Of the share which he
+individually had in directing the operations of the allied armies, we do
+not pretend to speak with absolute certainty; but we had reason to know,
+that the general opinion in the Russian army was, that the principal
+movements were not merely subjected to his control, but guided by his
+advice; and he was certainly looked upon, by officers who had long
+served under him, as one of the ablest commanders in the allied armies.
+
+He was much disconcerted, it was said, by the loss of the battle of
+Austerlitz; but his subsequent experience in war had given him the true
+military obstinacy, and he bore the loss of the battles of Lutzen and
+Bautzen with perfect equanimity; often saying, the French can still beat
+us, but they will teach us how to beat them; and we will conquer them by
+our _pertinacity_. The attachment of the Russian army, and especially of
+the guards, to him, almost approaches to idolatry; and the effect of his
+presence on the exertions and conduct of his troops, was not more
+beneficial to Europe while the struggle was yet doubtful, than to France
+herself after her armies were overthrown, and her "sacred territory"
+invaded.
+
+As a specimen of the general feeling in the Russian army at the time
+they invaded France, we may mention the substance of a conversation
+which an officer of the Russian staff told us he had held with a private
+of the Russian guard on the march, soon after the invasion. The soldier
+complained of the Emperor's proclamation, desiring them to consider as
+enemies only those whom they met in the field. "The French," said he,
+"came into our country, bringing hosts of Germans and Poles along with
+them;--they plundered our properties, burnt our houses, and murdered our
+families;--every Russian was their enemy. We have driven them out of
+Russia, we have followed them into Poland, into Germany, and into
+France; but wherever we go, we are allowed to find none but friends.
+This," he added, "is very well for us guards, who know that pillage is
+unworthy of us; but the common soldiers and Cossacks do not understand
+it; they remember how their friends and relations have been treated by
+the French, and that remembrance _lies at their hearts_."
+
+* * *
+
+We visited with deep interest the projecting part of the heights of
+Belleville, immediately overlooking the Fauxbourg St Martin, which the
+Emperor Alexander reached, with the king of Prussia, the Prince
+Schwartzenburg, and the whole general staff, on the evening of the 30th
+of March. It was here that he received the deputation from Marshals
+Marmont and Mortier, who had fought all day against a vast superiority
+of force, and been fairly overpowered, recommending Paris to the
+generosity of the allies. Thirty howitzers were placed on this height,
+and a few shells were thrown into the town, one or two of which, we were
+assured, reached as far as the Eglise de St Eustace; it is allowed on
+all hands that they fell within the Boulevards. The heights of
+Montmartre were at the same time stormed by the Silesian army, and
+cannon were placed on it likewise,--Paris was then at his mercy. After a
+year and a half of arduous contest, it was at length in his power to
+take a bloody revenge for the miseries which his subjects had suffered
+during the unprovoked invasion of Russia.--He ordered the firing to
+cease; assured the French deputation of his intention to protect the
+city; and issued orders to his army to prepare to march in, the next
+morning, in parade order. He put himself at their head, in company with
+the King of Prussia, and all the generals of high rank. After passing
+along the Boulevards to the Champs Elysees, the sovereigns placed
+themselves under a tree, in front of the palace of the Thuilleries,
+within a few yards of the spot where Louis XVI. and many other victims
+of the revolution had perished; and they saw the last man of their
+armies defile past the town, and proceed to take a position beyond it,
+before they entered it themselves.
+
+At this time, the recollection of the fate of Moscow was so strong in
+the Russian army, and the desire of revenge was so generally diffused,
+not merely among the soldiers, but even among the superior, officers,
+that they themselves said, nothing could have restrained them but the
+presence and positive commands of their Czar; nor could any other
+influence have maintained that admirable discipline in the Russian army,
+during its stay in France, which we have so often heard the theme of
+panegyric even among their most inveterate enemies.
+
+It is not in the columns of newspapers, nor in the perishable pages of
+such a Journal as this, that the invincible determination, the splendid
+achievements, and the generous forbearance of the Emperor of Russia and
+his brave army, during the last war, can be duly recorded; but when they
+shall have passed into history, we think we shall but anticipate the
+sober judgment of posterity by saying, that the foreign annals of no
+other nation, ancient or modern, will present, in an equal period of
+time, a spectacle of equal moral grandeur.
+
+* * *
+
+The King of Prussia was often to be seen at the Parisian theatres,
+dressed in plain clothes, and accompanied only by his son and nephew.
+The first time we saw him there, he was making some enquiries of a
+manager of the Theatre de l'Odeon, whom he met in the lobby; and the
+modesty and embarrassment of his manner were finely contrasted with the
+confident loquacity and officious courtesy of the Frenchman. He is known
+to be exceedingly averse to public exhibitions, even in his own country.
+He had gone through all the hardships and privations of the campaigns,
+had exposed himself with a gallantry bordering on rashness in every
+engagement, his son and nephew always by his side; his coolness in
+action was the subject of universal admiration; and it was not without
+reason that he had acquired the name of the first soldier in his army.
+His brothers, who are fine looking men, took the command of brigades in
+the Silesian army, and did the duty of brigadiers to the satisfaction of
+the whole army.
+
+* * *
+
+We had the good fortune of seeing the Duke of Wellington at the opera,
+the first time that he appeared in public at Paris. He was received with
+loud applause, and the modesty of his demeanour, while it accorded with
+the impressions of his character derived from his whole conduct, and the
+style of his public writings, sufficiently shewed, that his time had
+been spent more in camps than in courts. We were much pleased to find,
+that full justice was done to his merits as an officer by all ranks of
+the allied armies. On the day that he entered Paris, the watch-word in
+the whole armies in the neighbourhood was Wellington, and the
+countersign Talavera. We have often heard Russian and Prussian officers
+say, "he is the hero of the war:--we have conquered the French by main
+force, but his triumphs are the result of superior skill."
+
+* * *
+
+We found, as we had expected, that Marshal Blucher was held in the
+highest estimation in the allied army, chiefly on account of the
+promptitude and decision of his judgment, and the unconquerable
+determination of his character. We were assured, that notwithstanding
+the length and severity of the service in which he had been engaged
+during the campaign of 1814, he expressed the greatest regret at its
+abrupt termination; and was anxious to follow up his successes, until
+the remains of the French army should be wholly dispersed, and their
+leader unconditionally surrendered. An English gentleman who saw him at
+the time of the action in which a part of his troops were engaged at
+Soissons, a few days previous to the great battle at Laon, gave a
+striking account of his cool collected appearance on that occasion. He
+was lying in profound silence, wrapped up in his cloak, on the snow, on
+the side of a hill overlooking the town, smoking his pipe, and
+occasionally looking through a telescope at the scene of action. At
+length he rose up, saying, it was not worth looking at, and would come
+to nothing. In fact, the main body of the French army was marching on
+Rheims, and he was obliged to retire and concentrate his forces, first
+on Craon, and afterwards on Laon, before he could bring on a general
+action.
+
+He bore the fatigues of the campaign without any inconvenience, but fell
+sick on the day after he entered Paris, and resigned his command,
+requesting only of General Sacken, the governor of the town, that he
+would allot him lodgings from which he could look out upon Montmartre,
+the scene of his last triumph. He never appeared in public at Paris;
+but we had the pleasure of seeing him in a very interesting situation.
+We had gone to visit the Hotel des Invalides, and on entering the church
+under the great dome, we found this great commander, accompanied only by
+his son and another officer, leaning on the rails which encircle the
+monument of Turenne. We followed him into a small apartment off the
+church, where the bodies of Marshals Bessieres and Duroc, and the hearts
+of Generals Laroboissiere and Barraguay D'Hilliers, lay embalmed under a
+rich canopy of black velvet, in magnificent coffins, which were strewed
+with flowers every morning by the Duchess of Istria, the widow of
+Bessieres, who came thither regularly after mass. This room was hung
+with black, and lighted only by a small lamp, which burnt under the
+canopy, and threw its light in the most striking manner on the grey
+hairs and expressive countenance of the old Marshal, as he stood over
+the remains of his late antagonists in arms. He heard the name of each
+with a slight inclination of his head, gazed on the coffins for some
+moments in silence, and then turned about, and, as if to shew that he
+was not to be moved by his recollections, he strode out of the chapel
+humming a tune.
+
+He had vowed to recover possession of the sword of the great Frederic,
+which used to hang in the midst of the 10,000 standards of all nations
+that waved under the lofty dome of this building; but on the day that
+the allies entered Paris, the standards were taken down and burnt, and
+the sword was broken to pieces, by an order, as was said, from Maria
+Louisa.
+
+It is right to notice here, that the famous Silesian army which he
+commanded, consisted originally of many more Russian troops than
+Prussians,--in the proportion, we were told, of four to one, although
+the proportion of the latter was afterwards increased. Indeed it was at
+first the intention of the Emperor of Russia to put himself at the head
+of this army; but he afterwards gave up that idea, saying, that he knew
+the Russians and Prussians would fight well, and act cordially together;
+but that the presence of the Sovereigns would be more useful in keeping
+together the heterogeneous materials composing the army then forming in
+Bohemia, which afterwards had the name of the grand army.
+
+We have heard different opinions expressed as to the share which General
+Gneisenau, the chief of the staff of the Silesian army, had in directing
+the operations of that army. This General is universally looked on as an
+officer of first-rate merit, and many manoeuvres of great importance are
+believed to have been suggested by him; yet it was to the penetrating
+judgment and enthusiastic spirit of the old Marshal, that the officers
+whom we saw seemed most disposed to ascribe their successes.
+
+* * *
+
+We were much struck by the courteous and dignified manners of old Count
+Platoff. Even at that time, before he had experienced British
+hospitality, he professed high admiration for the British character,
+individual as well as national, saying, that he looked on every
+Englishman as his brother; and he was equally candid in expressing his
+detestation of the French, not even excepting the ladies. We, however,
+saw him receive one or two Frenchmen, who were presented to him by his
+friends, with his accustomed mildness. His countenance appeared to us
+expressive of considerable humour, and he addressed a few words to
+almost every Cossack of the guard whom he met in passing through the
+court of the Elysee Bourbon, which were always answered by a hearty
+laugh. During the two last campaigns of the war he had been almost
+constantly at head-quarters, and his advice, we were assured, was much
+respected.
+
+On the night after the battle of Borodino, Count Platoff, we were told,
+bivouacked on the field, in front of the position originally occupied by
+the Russians[1], and on the next day he covered their retreat with his
+Cossacks. One of the Princes of Hesse Philipsthal, an uncommonly
+handsome young man, who had volunteered to act as an aid-de-camp of his,
+had his leg shot away close to his side. Amputation was immediately
+performed above the middle of his thigh; he was laid on a peasant's
+cart, and carried 350 versts almost without stopping. However, he
+recovered perfectly, and petitioned the Emperor to be allowed to wear
+ever after the Cossack uniform. We saw him in it at Paris, going on
+crutches, but regretting in strong terms that he was to see no more
+fighting.
+
+On the day before the French entered Moscow, Count Platoff, and some
+other officers, from one of whom we had this anecdote, breakfasted with
+Count Rostapchin at his villa in the vicinity of the town, which it had
+been the delight of his life to cultivate and adorn. After breakfast,
+Count Rostapchin assembled his servants and retainers; and after saying
+that he hoped his son and latest descendants would always be willing to
+make a similar sacrifice for the good of their country, he took a torch,
+set fire to the building with his own hands, and waited until it was
+consumed. He then rode into the town to superintend the destruction of
+some warehouses full of clothes, of a number of carts, and of other
+things which might be useful to the enemy. But he did not, as we were
+assured by his son, whom we met at Paris, order the destruction of the
+town. The French, enraged at the loss of what was most valuable to them,
+according to the uniform account of the Russians, set fire in a
+deliberate and methodical manner to the different streets. It is but
+justice to say, however, that French officers, who had been at Moscow,
+denied the truth of the latter part of this statement.
+
+* * *
+
+The Russian troops in the neighbourhood of Paris were under the
+immediate command of General Count Miloradovitch, a man of large
+property, and unbounded generosity, and an enthusiast in his profession.
+He had been in the habit of always making the troops under his command
+some kind of present on his birth-day. During the retreat of the French
+from Moscow, this day came round when he was not quite prepared for it.
+"I have no money here," said he to his soldiers; "but yonder," pointing
+to a French column, "is a present worthy of you and of me." This address
+was a prelude to one of the most successful attacks, made during the
+pursuit, on the French rear-guard.
+
+The other Russian commanders, whom we heard highly spoken of by the
+Russian officers whom we met, were, the Marshal commanding, Barclay de
+Tolly, in whose countenance we thought we could trace the indications of
+his Scotch origin;--he is an old man, and was commonly represented as
+"sage, prudent, tres savant dans la guerre."--Wigtenstein, who is much
+younger, and is designated as "ardent, impetueux, entreprenant,"
+&c.--Benigsen, who is an old man, but very active, and represented to be
+as fond of fighting as Blucher himself;--Count Langeron, and Baron
+Sacken, the commanders of corps in the Silesian army. The former is a
+French emigrant, but has been long in the Russian service, and highly
+distinguished himself. The latter is an old man, but very spirited, and
+highly esteemed for his honourable character: in his capacity of
+Governor of Paris, he gave very general satisfaction.--Woronzoff, who,
+as is well known, was educated in England, and who distinguished
+himself at Borodino, and in the army of the north of Germany, and
+afterwards in France under Blucher--Winzingerode, one of the best
+cavalry officers, formerly in the Austrian service--Czernicheff, the
+famous partisan, a gallant gay young man, whose characteristic activity
+is strongly marked in his countenance--Diebzitch, a young staff officer
+of the first promise, since promoted to the important situation of Chef
+de l'etat major--Lambert (of French extraction), and Yermoloff: This
+last officer commanded the guards when we were at Paris, and was
+represented as a man of excellent abilities, and of a most determined
+character.
+
+To shew the determined spirit of some of the Russian generals, we may
+mention an anecdote of one of them, which we repeatedly heard. On one
+occasion, the troops under the command of this general were directed to
+defile over a bridge, under a very heavy fire from the enemy. Observing
+some hesitation in their movements, he said, with perfect coolness, "If
+they don't go forward, I will take care they shall not come back;" and
+planted a battery of 12 pounders in their rear, pointing directly at the
+bridge, in view of which they forced the passage in the most gallant
+style.
+
+The spirit of emulation which prevailed in all ranks of the Russian
+army, during the war, was worthy of the cause in which they were
+engaged. The following anecdote, we think, deserves commemoration. Two
+officers of rank had aspired to the same situation in the army, and
+exerted all their influence to obtain it. The successful candidate had
+the command of the famous redoubt at Borodino, when it was carried by
+the French. The other, who had a subordinate command just behind it,
+immediately came up to him, and asked leave to retake it for him. No,
+replied he; if you go there, I must be along with you. They collected
+what force they could, entered the redoubt together, and regained it at
+the point of the bayonet; but the officer who originally commanded in it
+was killed by the side of his rival. The latter, immediately after the
+battle, was promoted to the situation which he had so ardently desired;
+but his enjoyment of it was long and visibly embittered by the
+recollection of the event to which he owed his appointment.
+
+The number of Russian prisoners taken by the French during the war was
+very trifling, and we were assured, that there was no instance in the
+whole course of it, of a single Russian battalion or squadron laying
+down its arms. The number of prisoners taken by the Cossacks alone,
+from the time when the French left Moscow until the passage of the
+Niemen, was 90,000, and the number of cannon 550. It is true that these
+were for the most part stragglers, and men unable to fight; but it must
+be remembered, that many of them could only have been overtaken in their
+flight by these hardy and enterprising troops. To prove the value of the
+service rendered by the Cossacks, it is only necessary to observe, that
+many of the officers who distinguished themselves most in all the
+campaigns, Platoff, Orloff Denizoff, Wasilchikoff, Czernicheff,
+Tettenborn, &c. commanded Cossacks almost exclusively, and attributed
+much of their success to the quality of their troops. Most of the
+Cossacks whom we saw appeared to be well disciplined, and had a truly
+military air; and we were told, that all the 83 regiments of Cossacks
+are at present in a state of tolerable discipline. We cannot go so far
+as Dr Clarke in praise of their cleanliness, but we often observed their
+native easy courtesy of manner; and there can be no doubt, as he
+observes, of their being a much handsomer race than the generality of
+Russians. Their figures are more graceful, and their features are
+higher, and approach often to the Roman style of countenance. One troop
+of the Cossacks of the guards, composed of those from the Black Sea,
+attracted our particular admiration; and the noble manly figures of the
+men, the elegant forms of the horses, and the picturesque appearance of
+the arms and uniforms of the whole body of Cossacks of the guard, were
+very striking. The hereditary Prince of Georgia was at Paris as one of
+the Colonels of this regiment, and his figure and countenance were such
+as might have rendered him remarkable even in his native country, in
+which the "human form divine" is understood to attain its highest
+perfection.
+
+The Cossacks were kept in good order when under the inspection of their
+officers; but during the campaigns, they were often obliged to act in
+patroles, two or three together, at a distance from their officers; and
+in these situations, it may be supposed that they would commit many
+excesses. Immediately after a battle, they plundered all they met, and
+at all times, and in all places, they looked on horses as fair game,
+insomuch that it was often remarked in the allied armies, that they
+believed horses to have been created for none but Cossacks. It was said,
+that almost every Cossack of the corps of Czernicheff was worth from £.
+300 to £. 400 in money and watches, which most of them spent much after
+the manner of British sailors.
+
+* * *
+
+Some idea of the expenditure of human life, during the campaign of 1812,
+may be formed from the following facts, which we had from unquestionable
+authority: The number of killed and wounded on both sides at the battle
+of Borodino, which did not extend from flank to flank more than three
+English miles, was ascertained to exceed 75,000 men. Eighteen thousand
+wounded Russians were dressed on the field, and sent off in carts. When
+the Russian army crossed the Niemen, in pursuit of the French, they left
+behind them 87,000 sick and wounded in hospitals, of which number 63,000
+were wounded. The whole number of human bodies, Russian and French, men,
+women, and children, which were collected and buried or burnt, after the
+retreat from Moscow to the Niemen, exceeded 300,000.
+
+The officers of the Russian medical staff spoke in terms of the utmost
+indignation of the conduct of the French medical staff, in deserting
+their charge on the approach of the Russian armies. A great part of the
+town of Wilna, and surrounding villages, had been converted into
+hospitals for the French army, and when the Russians arrived, they
+found these hospitals wholly deserted by the medical men. The sick (many
+of them labouring under infectious fevers), and the wounded, were
+huddled together, without provisions, attendants, or the slightest
+regard to their situation. The first step of the Russian officers who
+were entrusted with the care of these hospitals, was to employ a number
+of Jews to clear out the corpses, some of which had lain there for three
+weeks; and when these were collected and burnt, their number was found
+to exceed 16,000; the sick were then separated from the wounded; and as
+soon as order was re-established, the Emperor of Russia visited the
+hospitals himself, to be assured that every possible attention was paid
+to their surviving inmates.
+
+During the whole of the winter of 1812 and the year 1813, a typhus fever
+was very prevalent in the French army, and in many places, particularly
+on the fortresses on the Elbe, and in Frankfort and Mentz, it made
+dreadful ravages; but it never extended, to any considerable degree,
+among the Russians. This was partly owing, no doubt, to the influence of
+exciting passions on the constitutions of the men; but much must
+certainly be ascribed to the admirable arrangements of the Russian
+hospital staff, which, under the superintendance of our countryman, Sir
+James Wyllie, have attained, in a few years, a surprising degree of
+excellence. The state of the Russian hospitals at Paris, under the
+direction of another countryman, Dr Crichton, was universally admired.
+
+The Russian imperial guard is, we believe, the finest body of men in
+Europe; the whole number, when the regiments are all complete, is about
+30,000; but the effective men at Paris did not exceed 20,000. These are
+made up from time to time, by picked men from the whole army. The charge
+of one of the regiments of cuirassiers, 1000 strong, upon the Champ de
+Mars, was one of the finest sights imaginable. The clattering of the
+horses feet on hard ground, and the rattling of the armour, increasing
+as they advanced, exceeded the sound of the loudest thunder.
+
+Their horses are not so heavy as those of the English dragoons, but they
+have evidently more blood in them, and their power of bearing fatigues
+and privations is quite wonderful. We were told by the officer
+commanding one of these regiments, that almost all the horses we saw in
+Paris, in the finest possible condition, were on the Niemen when the
+French crossed it in 1812, and had borne the fatigues of the retreat to
+Moscow, and of the advance during the dreadful winter which had proved
+so fatal to the French army; as well as of the winter campaign of 1814
+in France, which was carried on, almost entirely, during frost and snow.
+The Russian soldiers bore the extreme cold of the former winter in a
+manner hardly less wonderful; we were assured that they were not more
+warmly clothed than the French; but they were accustomed to the climate,
+were comparatively well fed, and were animated by victory, while their
+antagonists were depressed by famine and despair.
+
+The equipment of the artillery of the guard is probably the completest
+in the world;--each gun of the horse artillery is followed by three
+tumbrils of ammunition, and the artillerymen being all mounted and
+armed, a battery of horse artillery is fitted to act in a double
+capacity. One of these batteries, of 12 pieces, on the march, with all
+its accompaniments, takes up fully half-a-mile of road.
+
+The regiments of infantry are of various strength; all are composed of
+the finest men, in point of strength and military appearance, but they
+appeared to us rather inadequately officered. Of the physical powers of
+this body of men, no better proof can be given, than their having
+marched, within 24 hours, on the 22d and 23d of March, a distance of 18
+leagues, or 54 miles, which they did at two marches, resting three
+hours, without any straggling. The occasion on which they most highly
+distinguished themselves was at Culm, where four regiments of them
+(about 8000 men) stopped, for two days, in the defiles of the Riesen
+Gebirge, the whole corps of Vandamme. The regiment Pavloffsky, who were
+made guards for their conduct at Borodino, attracted particular
+attention; they wear caps faced with brass, whence the French soldiers,
+who know them well, call them the Bonnets d'Or; and many of them
+preserve with much care the marks of the bullets by which these have
+been pierced.
+
+The Russian soldiers, at least of the guard, have almost universally
+dark complexions, their features are generally low, and their faces
+broad. The officers and soldiers of the Prussian guard, which is about
+8000 strong, and in an equally high state of discipline and equipment,
+are, on the whole, handsomer men, having generally fair hair, blue eyes,
+high features, and ruddy complexions.
+
+A great number of the Prussian officers have a fine expression of
+romantic enterprise in their countenances; and it is well known, that
+the whole Prussian nation, long oppressed by the presence of French
+armies, entered into the war with France with a spirit of energy and
+union that never was surpassed. The formation of the legion of
+revenge,--the desertion of all seminaries of education, by teachers as
+well as pupils,--the substitution of ornaments in iron, for gold and
+jewellery, by the ladies of Berlin and other towns, are striking
+instances of this popular feeling. The war-song, composed by a young
+student from Konigsberg, which was sung in the heat of battle by the
+regiment of volunteer hussars to which he belonged, and the author of
+which was basely slain by a French prisoner whom he had neglected to
+disarm,--to judge of it by a version which appeared in the newspapers,
+and by the enthusiasm with which the Prussians speak of it, is worthy of
+being translated by one of our noblest poets.
+
+All the nations of Germany have strong feelings of patriotism associated
+with the sight, and even with the name of the Rhine. When the Austrians,
+in one of the last actions of the campaign of 1813, carried the heights
+of Hockheim, in the neigbourhood of Mentz, and first came in sight of
+that river, they involuntarily halted, and stood for some minutes in
+silence; when the Prince Marshal coming up to know the cause of the
+delay, their feelings burst forth in peals of enthusiastic acclamation,
+as they again advanced to the charge. The Prussian corps of the army of
+Silesia, destined to force the passage of the river, assembled on the
+right bank on the evening of the 31st of December 1813, determined to
+begin the year with the conquest to which they had long aspired; and
+just at midnight the first boats pulled off from the shore, the oars
+keeping time to thousands of voices, who sung words adapted to a
+favourite national air by the celebrated Schlegel, the beginning of
+which is, literally translated, "The Rhine shall no longer be our
+boundary,--it is the great artery of Germany, and it shall flow through
+the heart of our empire."
+
+The Austrians whom we saw at Paris, were in general strong heavy looking
+men. Their cavalry were universally admired; but the Russians and
+Prussians complained much of the general dilatoriness of their
+movements, and in particular, of the quantity of baggage waggons with
+which their march was encumbered. Upon one occasion, some hundreds of
+these fell into the hands of the French, to the great amusement of the
+Russians. The Bavarians and Wirtembergers had the character, both in
+Russia and France, of fighting very hard, and plundering freely. This
+last accomplishment, as well as their military arrangements, they had
+learnt from the French; and their conduct in this respect in France
+itself, might be said to be actuated by a kind of poetical justice.
+
+* * *
+
+We were highly gratified by this review of the whole Russian and
+Prussian guard which we saw in the Bois de Boulogne and road to St
+Germain, on the 30th of May. They were drawn up in a single line,
+extending at least six miles. The allied Sovereigns, followed by the
+Princes of Russia, Prussia and France, the French Marshals, and all the
+leading officers of the allied armies, rode at full speed along the
+line; and the loud huzzas of the soldiers, which died away among the
+long avenues of elm trees, as the cloud of dust which enveloped them
+receded from the view, were inexpressibly sublime.
+
+The appearance of these troops on parade was such, that but for the
+traces which long exposure to all changes of weather had left on their
+countenances, it never could have been supposed that they had been
+engaged in long marches. They had always marched and fought in their
+great coats and small blue caps, carrying their uniforms in their
+knapsacks. On the night before they entered Paris, however, they put
+them on, and marched into the town in as fine parade order as that in
+which they had left Petersburg. The Parisians, who had been told that
+the allied armies were nearly annihilated, and only a wreck left,
+expressed their astonishment with their usual levity: "Au moins," said
+they, "C'est un beau debris."
+
+While the uniforms, arms, and accoutrements of these troops were in the
+highest order, they seemed to take a pride in displaying the worn and
+faded standards, torn by the winds and pierced with bullets, under which
+they had served during the whole campaigns. Their services might also be
+judged of from the medals of the year 1812, which almost all the
+Russians bore, and to which all without distinction of rank are
+entitled, who were exposed to the enemy's fire during that campaign; and
+from the insignia of various orders, which in both the services extend
+to privates as well as officers. The effect of these honorary rewards on
+the minds of the men is certainly very great; and it is perhaps to be
+regretted that there is no institution of the same kind in the British
+service. The spirit of our soldiers, as all the world knows, needs no
+such stimulus; but if a measure of this kind could in any degree gratify
+their military feelings, surely their country owes them the
+gratification; and what can be more pleasing to a soldier than to see
+his officers and his Sovereign proud to display honours which he shares
+along with them? The Russians appear to set a value on these medals and
+decorations, which clearly shews the wisdom of the policy by which they
+were granted. Almost every wounded soldier wears them even when lying in
+hospital, and in the hour which teaches the insignificance of all the
+titles of kings, and all the treasures of the universe, he still
+rejoices, that he can lay these testimonies of his valour and fidelity
+beside the small crucifix which he brought with him from his home, and
+which, with a superstition that accords better with the true military
+spirit than the thoughtless infidelity of the French, he has carried in
+his bosom through all the chances of war.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+PARIS--ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+
+With whatever sentiments a stranger might enter Paris at the time we
+did, his feelings must have been the same with regard to the monuments
+of ancient magnificence, or of modern taste, which it contained. All
+that the vanity or patriotism of a long series of Sovereigns could
+effect for the embellishment of the capital in which they resided; all
+that the conquests of an ambitious and unprincipled Army could
+accumulate from the spoils of the nations whom they had subdued, were
+there presented to the eye of the stranger with a profusion which
+obliterated every former prejudice, and stifled the feelings of
+national emulation in exultation at the greatness of human genius.
+
+The ordinary buildings of Paris, as every traveller has observed, and as
+all the world knows, are in general mean and uncomfortable. The height
+and gloomy aspect of the houses; the narrowness of the streets, and the
+want of pavement for foot passengers, convey an idea of antiquity, which
+ill accords with what the imagination had anticipated of the modern
+capital of the French empire. This circumstance renders the admiration
+of the spectator greater when he first comes in sight of its _public
+edifices_; when he is conducted to the Place Louis Quinze, or the Pont
+Neuf, from whence he has a general view of the principal buildings of
+this celebrated capital. With the single exception of the view of London
+from the terrace of the Adelphi, there is no point in our own country
+where the effect of architectural design is so great as in the
+situations which have now been mentioned. The view from the former of
+these combines many of the most striking objects which Paris has to
+present. To the east, the long front of the Thuilleries rises over the
+dark mass of foliage which covers its gardens; to the south, the
+picturesque aspect of the town is broken by the varied objects which the
+river presents, and the fine perspective of the Bridge of Peace,
+terminating in the noble front of the palace of the Legislative Body; to
+the west, the long avenues of the Elysian Fields are closed by the
+pillars of a triumphal arch which Napoleon had commenced; while to the
+north, the beautiful façade of the Palace itself, leaves the spectator
+only room to discover at a greater distance the foundation of the Temple
+of Glory, which he had commenced, and in the execution of which he was
+interrupted by those ambitious enterprises to which his subsequent
+downfall was owing. To a painter's eye, the effect of the whole scene is
+increased by the rich and varied foreground which everywhere presents
+itself, composed of the shrubs with which the skirts of the square are
+adorned, and the lofty poplars which rise amidst the splendour of
+architectural beauty; while recent events give a greater interest to the
+spot from which this beauty is surveyed, by the remembrance, that it was
+here that Louis XVI. fell a martyr to the revolutionary principles, and
+that it was here that the Emperor Alexander and the other princes of
+Europe took their station, when their armies passed in triumph through
+the walls of Paris.
+
+The view from the Pont Neuf, though not so striking upon the whole,
+embraces objects of greater individual beauty. The gay and animated
+quays of the city covered with foot-passengers, and with all the varied
+exhibitions of industrious occupation, which, from the warmth of the
+climate, are carried on in the open air;--the long and splendid front of
+the Louvre and Thuilleries;--the bold projection of the Palais des Arts,
+of the Hotel de la Monnaie, and other public buildings on the opposite
+side of the river;--the beautiful perspective of the bridges, adorned by
+the magnificent colonnade which fronts the Palace of the Legislative
+Body;--and the lofty picturesque buildings of the centre of Paris
+surrounding the more elevated towers of Notre Dame, form a scene, which,
+though less perfect, is more striking, and more characteristic, than the
+scene from the centre of the Place Louis Quinze, which has been just
+described. It conveys at once a general idea of the French capital; of
+that mixture of poverty and splendour by which it is so remarkably
+distinguished; of that grandeur of national power, and that degradation
+of individual importance, which marked the ancient dynasty of the French
+nation. It marks too, in a historical view, the changes of the public
+feeling which the people of this country have undergone, from the
+distant period when the towers of Notre Dame rose amidst the austerity
+of Gothic taste, and were loaded with the riches of Catholic
+superstition, to that boasted æra, when the loyalty of the French people
+exhausted the wealth and the genius of the country, to decorate with
+classic taste the residence of their Sovereigns; and lastly, to those
+later days, when the names of religion and of loyalty have alike been
+forgotten; when the national exultation reposed only on the trophies of
+military greatness, and the iron yoke of imperial power was forgotten in
+the monuments which record the deeds of imperial glory.
+
+To the general observation on the inferiority of the common buildings in
+Paris, there are some remarkable exceptions. The Boulevards, the remains
+of the ancient ramparts of the city, are in general beautiful, from
+their circular form, from their uniform breadth, from the magnificence
+of the detached palaces with which they abound, and from the rows of
+fine trees with which they are shaded. In the skirts of the town, and
+more especially in the Fauxbourg St Germain, the beauty of the streets
+is greatly increased by the detached hotels or villas, surrounded by
+gardens, which are everywhere to be met with, in which the lilac, the
+laburnum, the Bois de Judeé, and the acacia, grow in the most luxuriant
+manner, and on the green foliage of which the eye reposes with singular
+delight amidst the bright and dazzling whiteness of the stone with
+which they are surrounded.
+
+The Hotel des Invalides, the Chelsea Hospital of France, is one of the
+objects on which the Parisians principally pride themselves, and to
+which a stranger is conducted immediately after his arrival in that
+capital. The institution itself appears to be well conducted, and to
+give general satisfaction to the wounded men who have there found an
+asylum from the miseries of war. We were informed that these men live in
+habits of perfect harmony among each other; a state of things widely
+different from that of our veterans in Greenwich Hospital, and which is
+probably chiefly owing to the cheerfulness and equanimity of temper
+which form the best feature in the French character. There is something
+in the style of the architecture of this building, which accords well
+with the object to which it is devoted. The front is distinguished by a
+simple manly portico, and a dome of the finest proportion rises above
+its centre, which is visible from all parts of the city. This dome was
+gilded by order of Bonaparte: and however much a fastidious taste may
+regret the addition, it certainly gave an air of splendour to the whole,
+which was in perfect unison with the feelings of exultation which the
+sight of this monument of military glory was then fitted to awaken
+among the French people. The exterior of this edifice was formerly
+surrounded by cannon captured by the armies of France at different
+periods: and ten thousand standards, the trophies of victory during the
+wars of two centuries, waved under its splendid dome, and enveloped the
+sword of Frederic the Great, which hung from the centre, until the 31st
+of March 1814, when, as already observed, they were all burnt by order
+of Maria Louisa, to prevent their falling into the victorious hands of
+the allied powers.
+
+If the character of the architecture of the Hotel des Invalides accords
+well with the object to which that building is destined, the character
+of the Louvre is not less in unison with the spirit of the fine arts, to
+which it is consecrated. It is impossible for language to convey any
+adequate idea of the impression which this exquisite building awakens in
+the mind of a stranger. The beautiful proportions, and the fine symmetry
+of the great façade, give an air of simplicity to the distant view of
+this edifice, which is not diminished, on nearer approach, by the
+unrivalled beauty of its ornaments and detail; but when you cross the
+threshold of the portico, and pass under its noble archway into the
+inner-court, all considerations are absorbed in the throb of admiration
+which is excited by the sudden display of all that is lovely and
+harmonious in Grecian architecture. You find yourself in the midst of
+the noblest and yet chastest display of architectural beauty, where
+every ornament possesses the character by which the whole is
+distinguished, and where the whole possesses the grace and elegance
+which every ornament presents:--You find yourself on the spot where all
+the monuments of ancient art are deposited;--where the greatest
+exertions of mortal genius are preserved--and where a palace has at last
+been raised worthy of being the depository of the collected genius of
+the human race.--It bears a higher character than that of being the
+residence of imperial power; it seems destined to loftier purposes than
+to be the abode of earthly greatness; and the only forms by which its
+halls would not be degraded, are those models of ideal perfection which
+the genius of ancient Greece created to exalt the character of a heathen
+world.
+
+Placed in a more elevated spot, and destined to a still higher object,
+the Pantheon bears in its front the traces of the noble purpose for
+which it was intended.--It was intended to be the cemetery of all the
+great men who had deserved well of their country; and it bears the
+inscription, above its entrance, _Aux grands Hommes La Patrie
+reconnoissante_. The character of its architecture is well adapted to
+the impression it is intended to convey, and suits the simplicity of the
+inscription which its portico presents. Its situation has been selected
+with singular taste, to aid the effect which was thus intended. It is
+placed at the top of an eminence, which shelves in a declivity on every
+side; and the immediate approach is by an immense flight of steps, which
+form the base of the building, and increase the effect which its
+magnitude produces. Over the entrance is placed a portico of lofty
+pillars, finely proportioned, supporting a magnificent entablature of
+the simplest order; and the whole terminates in a dome of vast
+dimensions, forming the highest object in the whole city. The impression
+which every one must feel in crossing its threshold, is that of
+religious awe; the individual is lost in the greatness of the objects
+with which he is surrounded, and he dreads to enter what seems the abode
+of a greater Power, and to have been framed for the purposes of more
+elevated worship. The Louvre might have been fitted for the gay scenes
+of ancient sacrifice; it suits the brilliant conceptions of heathen
+mythology; and seems the fit abode of those ideal forms, in which the
+imagination of ancient times embodied their conception of divine
+perfection; but the Pantheon is adapted for a holier worship, and
+accords with the character of a purer belief; and the vastness and
+solitude of its untrodden chambers awaken those feelings of human
+weakness, and that sentiment of human immortality, which befit the
+temple of a spiritual faith.
+
+We were involuntarily led, by the sight of this great monument of sacred
+architecture in the Grecian style, to compare it with the Gothic
+churches which we had seen, and in particular with the Cathedral of
+Beauvais, the interior of which is finished with greater delicacy, and
+in finer proportions, than any other edifice of a similar kind in
+France. The impression which the inimitable choir of Beauvais produced,
+was widely different from that which we felt on entering the lofty dome
+of the Pantheon at Paris. The light pinnacles, the fretted roof, the
+aspiring form of the Gothic edifice, seemed to have been framed by the
+hands of aerial beings, and produced, even from a distance, that
+impression of grace and airiness which it was the peculiar object of
+this species of Gothic architecture to excite. On passing the high
+archway which covers the western door, and entering the immense aisles
+of the Cathedral, the sanctity of the place produces a deeper
+impression, and the grandeur of the forms awakens profounder feelings.
+The light of the day is excluded, the rays of the sun come mellowed
+through the splendid colours with Which the windows are stained, and
+cast a religious light over the marble pavement which covers the floor;
+while the eye reposes on the harmonious forms of the lancet windows, or
+is bewildered in the profusion of ornament with which the roof is
+adorned. The impression which the whole produces, is that of religious
+emotion, singularly suited to the genius of Christianity; if is seen in
+that obscure light which fits the solemnity of religious duty, and
+awakens those feelings of intense delight, which prepare the mind for
+the high strain of religious praise. But it is not the deep feeling of
+humility and weakness which is produced by the dark chambers and massy
+pillars of the Pantheon at Paris; it is not in the mausoleum of the dead
+that you seem to wander, nor on the thoughts of the great that have gone
+before you that the mind revolves; it is in the scene of thanksgiving
+that your admiration is fixed; it is with the emblems of Hope that your
+devotion is awakened, and with the enthusiasm of gratitude that the
+mind is filled. Beneath the gloomy roof of the Grecian Temple, the
+spirit is concentrated within itself: it seeks the repose which solitude
+affords, and meditates on the fate of the immortal soul; but it loves to
+follow the multitude into the Gothic Cathedral, to join in the song of
+grateful praise which peals through its lengthened aisles, and to share
+in the enthusiasm which belongs to the exercise of common devotion.
+
+The Cathedral of Notre Dame is the only Gothic building of note in
+Paris, and it is by no means equal to the expectations we had been led
+to form of it. The style of its architecture is not that of the finest
+Gothic; it has neither the exquisite lightness of ornament which
+distinguishes the summit of Gloucester Cathedral, nor the fine lancet
+windows which give so unrivalled a beauty to the interior of Beauvais,
+nor the richness of roof which covers the tombs of Westminster Abbey.
+Its character is that of massy greatness; its ornaments are rich rather
+than elegant, and its interior striking more from its immense size than
+the beauty of the proportion in which it is formed. In spite of all
+these circumstances, however, the Cathedral of Notre Dame produces a
+deep impression on the mind of the beholder; its towers rise to a
+stupendous height above all the buildings which surround them; while
+the stone of every other edifice is of a light colour, they alone are
+black with the smoke of centuries; and exhibit a venerable aspect of
+ancient greatness in the midst of the brilliancy of modern decoration
+with which the city abounds. Even the crowd of ornaments with which they
+are loaded, and the heavy proportion in which they are built, are
+forgotten in the effect which their magnitude produces; they suit the
+gloomy character of the building they adorn, and accord with the
+expression of antiquated power by which its aged forms are now
+distinguished.
+
+To those who have been accustomed to the form of worship which is
+established in Protestant countries, there is nothing so striking in the
+Catholic churches as the complete oblivion of rank, or any of the
+distinctions of established society, which there universally prevails.
+There are no divisions of seats, nor any places fixed for any particular
+classes of society. All, of whatever rank or station, kneel alike upon
+the marble pavement; and the whole extent of the church is open for the
+devotion of all classes of the people. You frequently see the poorest
+citizens with their children kneeling on the stone close to those of the
+highest rank, or the most extensive fortunes. This custom may appear
+painful to those who have been habituated to the forms of devotion in
+the English churches; but it produces an impression on the mind of the
+spectator which nothing in our service is capable of effecting. To see
+the individual form lost in the immensity of the objects with which he
+is surrounded; to see all ranks and ages blended in the exercise of
+common devotion; to see all distinction forgotten in the sense of common
+infirmity, suits the spirit of that religion which was addressed to the
+poor as well as to the rich, and fits the presence of that Being before
+whom all ranks are equal.
+
+Nor is it without a good effect upon the feelings of mankind, that this
+custom has formed a part of the Catholic service. Amidst that
+degradation of the great body of the people, which marks the greater
+part of the Catholic countries--amidst the insolence of aristocratic
+power, which the doctrines of the Catholic faith are so well suited to
+support, it is fitting that there should be some occasions on which the
+distinctions of the world should be forgotten; some moments in which the
+rich as well as the poor should be humbled before a greater power--in
+which they should be reminded of the common faith in which they have
+been baptized, of the common duties to which they are called, and the
+common hopes which they have been permitted to form.
+
+We had the good fortune to see high mass performed in Notre Dame, with
+all the pomp of the Catholic service, for the souls of Louis XVI. Marie
+Antoinette, and the Dauphin, on May 16, 1814, soon after the King's
+arrival in Paris. The Cathedral was hung with black in every part; the
+brilliancy of day wholly excluded, and it was lighted only by double
+rows of wax tapers, which burned round the coffins, placed in the centre
+of the choir. It was crowded to excess in every part; all the Marshals,
+Peers, and dignitaries of France, were stationed with the Royal Family
+near the centre of the Cathedral, and all the principal officers of the
+allied armies attended at the celebration of the service. The King was
+present, though without being perceived by the vast assembly by whom he
+was surrounded; and the Duchess d'Angouleme exhibited, in this
+melancholy duty, that mixture of firmness and sensibility by which her
+character has always been distinguished.
+
+It was said, that there were several persons present at this solemn
+service who had voted for the death of the King; and many of those
+assembled must doubtless have been conscious that they had been
+instrumental in the death of those for whose souls this solemn service
+was now performing. The greater part, however, of those whom we had an
+opportunity of observing, exhibited the symptoms of genuine sorrow, and
+seemed to participate in the solemnity with unfeigned devotion. The
+Catholic worship was here displayed in its utmost splendour; all the
+highest prelates of France were assembled to give dignity to the
+spectacle; and all that art could devise was exhausted to render the
+scene impressive in the eyes of the people. To us, however, who had been
+habituated to the simplicity of the English form, the variety of
+unmeaning ceremony, the endless gestures and unceasing bows of the
+clergy who officiated, destroyed the impression which the solemnity of
+the service would otherwise have produced. But though the service itself
+appeared ridiculous, the effect of the whole scene was sublime in the
+greatest degree. The black tapestry hung in heavy folds round the sides
+of the Cathedral, and magnified the impression which its vastness
+produced. The tapers which surrounded the coffins threw a red and gloomy
+light over the innumerable multitude which thronged the floor; their
+receding rays faintly illuminated the farther recesses, or strained to
+pierce the obscure gloom in which the summits of the pillars were lost;
+while the sacred music pealed through the distant aisles, and deepened
+the effect of the thousands of voices which joined in the strains of
+repentant prayer.
+
+Among the exhibitions of art to which a stranger is conducted
+immediately after his arrival in the French metropolis, there is none
+which is more characteristic of the disposition of the people than the
+_Musèe des Monumens François_, situated in the Rue des Petits Angustins.
+This is a collection of all the finest sepulchral monuments from
+different parts of France, particularly from the Cathedral of St Denis,
+where the cemetery of the royal family had, from time immemorial, been
+placed. It is said by the French, that the collection of these monuments
+into one museum was the only means of preserving them from the fury of
+the people during the revolution; and certainly nothing but absolute
+necessity could have justified the barbarous idea of bringing them from
+the graves they were intended to adorn, to one spot, where all
+associations connected with them are destroyed. It is not the mere
+survey of the monuments of the dead that is interesting,--not the
+examination of the specimens of art by which they may be adorned;--it is
+the remembrance of the deeds which they are intended to record,--of the
+virtues they are destined to perpetuate,--- of the pious gratitude of
+which they are now the only testimony--above all, of the dust they
+actually cover. They remind us of the great men who formerly filled the
+theatre of the world,--they carry us back to an age which, by a very
+natural illusion, we conceive to have been both wiser and happier than
+our own, and present the record of human greatness in that pleasing
+distance when the great features of character alone are remembered, when
+time has drawn its veil over the weaknesses of mortality, and its
+virtues are sanctified by the hand of death. It is a feeling fitted to
+elevate the soul; to mingle the thoughts of death with the recollection
+of the virtues by which life had been dignified, and renovate in every
+heart those high hopes of religion which spring from, the grave of
+former virtue.
+
+All this delightful, this purifying illusion, is destroyed by the way in
+which the monuments are collected in the Museum at Paris. They are there
+brought together from all parts of France; severed from the ashes of the
+dead they were intended to cover; and arranged in systematic order to
+illustrate the history of the art whose progress they unfold. The tombs
+of all the Kings of France, of the Generals by whom its glory has been
+extended, of the statesmen by whom its power, and the writers by whom
+its fame has been established, are crowded together in one collection,
+and heaped upon each other, without any other connexion than that of the
+time in which they were originally raised. The Museum accordingly
+exhibits, in the most striking manner, the power of arrangement and
+classification which the French possess; it is valuable, as containing
+fine models of the greatest men whom France has produced, and exhibits a
+curious specimen of the progress of art, from its first commencement to
+the period of its greatest perfection; but it has wholly lost that deep
+and peculiar interest which belongs to the monuments of the dead in
+their original situation.
+
+Adjoining to the Museum, is a garden planted with trees, in which many
+of the finest monuments are placed; but in which the depravity of the
+French taste appears in the most striking manner. It is surrounded with
+houses, and darkened by the shade of lofty buildings; yet, in this
+gloomy situation, they have placed the tomb of Fenelon, and the united
+monument of Abelard and Eloise: profaning thus, by the barbarous
+affectation of artificial taste, and the still more shocking imitation
+of ancient superstition, the remains of those whose names are enshrined
+in every heart which can feel the beauty of moral excellence, or share
+in the sympathy with youthful sorrow.
+
+How different are the feelings with which an Englishman surveys the
+untouched monuments of English greatness!--and treads the floor of that
+venerable building which shrouds the remains of all who have dignified
+their native land--in which her patriots, her poets, and her
+philosophers, "sleep with her kings, and dignify the scene," which the
+rage of popular fury has never dared to profane, and the hand of
+victorious power has never been able to violate; where the ashes of the
+immortal dead still lie in undisturbed repose, under that splendid roof
+which covered the tombs of her earliest kings, and witnessed, from its
+first dawn, the infant glory of the English people.--Nor could the
+remembrance of the national monuments we have described, ever excite in
+the mind of a native of France, the same feeling of heroic devotion
+which inspired the sublime expression of Nelson, as he boarded the
+Spanish Admiral's ship at St Vincent's--"Westminster Abbey or Victory!"
+
+Though the streets in Paris have an aged and uncomfortable appearance,
+the form of the houses is such, as, at a distance, to present a
+picturesque aspect. Their height, their sharp and irregular tops, the
+vast variety of forms which they assume when seen from different
+quarters, all combine to render a distant view of them move striking
+than the long rows of uniform houses of which London is composed. The
+domes and steeples of Paris, however, are greatly inferior, both in
+number and magnificence, to those of the English capital.
+
+The gardens of the Thuilleries and the Luxembourg, of which the
+Parisians think so highly, and which are constantly filled with all
+ranks of citizens, are laid out with a singularity of taste, of which,
+in this country, we can scarcely form any conception. The straight
+walks--the clipt trees--the marble fountains--are fast wearing out in
+all parts of England; they are to be met with only round the mansions of
+ancient families, and even there are kept rather from the influence of
+ancient prejudice, or from the affection to hereditary forms, than from
+their coincidence with the present taste of the English people. They are
+seldom, accordingly, disagreeable, with us, to the eye of the most
+cultivated taste; their singularity forms a pleasing variety to the
+continued succession of lawns and shrubberies which is every where to be
+met with; and they are regarded rather as the venerable marks of
+ancient splendour, than as the barbarous affectation of modern
+distinction. In France, the native deformity of this taste appears in
+its real light, without the colouring of any such adventitious
+circumstances as conceal it in this country. It does not appear there
+under the softening veil of ancient manners; its avenues do not conduct
+to the decaying abode of hereditary greatness--its gardens do not mark
+the scenes of former festivity--its fountains are not covered with the
+moss which has grown for centuries. It appears as the model of present
+taste; it is considered as the indication of existing splendour; and
+sought after, as the form in which the beauty of Nature is now to be
+admired. All that association accordingly had blended in our minds with
+the style of ancient gardening in our own country, was instantly
+divested by its appearance in France; and we felt then the whole
+importance of that happy change in the national taste, whereby variety
+has been made to succeed to uniformity, and the imitation of nature to
+come in the place of the exhibition of art.
+
+In every country, and in every department of taste, the earliest object
+of art is, the display of the power of the artist; and it is in the last
+period of its improvements alone, that this miserable propensity is
+overcome. It is hence that the imitation of Nature is not what is at
+first attempted; that the forms which she presents are uniformly
+neglected, and the merit of the artist is thought to consist in such
+artificial designs as bear the most unequivocal marks of his individual
+dexterity. The forms of nature are every where to be met with--they are
+open to the most vulgar capacity; the power of art, therefore, it is at
+first thought, must be shown in the complete subjugation of natural
+form, or the complete abandonment of natural beauty. It is hence that
+florists uniformly take delight in double flowers and monsters, which
+are the farthest removed from the forms of nature; and it is hence that
+gardeners always evince so great an anxiety to conduct strangers to the
+most ridiculous contortion of natural form, which their domains can
+exhibit. There is nothing unnatural or vulgar in this propensity; it
+pervades all branches of taste at a certain stage of its progress, and
+all ranks of society, to whom a limited capacity of mind is granted. It
+is hence that every society exhibits examples of individuals, who aim at
+singularity of manners, merely that they may be different from the
+generality of mankind; it is hence that many persons, even of a
+cultivated mind, shut their eye to the charms of beauty in every
+department of taste, merely that they may display their own wretched
+vanity in criticising its imperfections; it is hence that painters
+select the moment of passion or exertion, for no other reason than for
+the display of their anatomical knowledge, or their skill in the
+delineation of extraordinary emotion; and that poets have so often
+neglected what is really pathetic in the scenes, either of nature or of
+man, to present the artificial conceptions of their learning or fancy.
+In all these instances, the degradation of taste arises from the vain
+anxiety of men to display the power of the artist, and their utter
+forgetfulness of the end of the Art.
+
+The remarkable characteristic of the taste of France is, that this love
+of artificial beauty continues with undiminished force, at a period
+when, in other nations, it has given place to a more genuine love for
+the beauty of nature. In them, the natural progress of refinement has
+led from the admiration of the art of imitation to the love of the
+subjects imitated. In France, this early prejudice, continues in its
+pristine vigour at the present moment: They never lose sight of the
+effort of the artist; their admiration is fixed not on the quality or
+object in nature, but on the artificial representation of it; not on the
+thing signified, but the sign. It is hence that they have such exalted
+ideas of the perfection of their artist David, whose paintings are
+nothing more than a representation of the human figure in its most
+extravagant and phrenzied attitudes; that they are insensible to the
+simple display of real emotion, but dwell with delight upon the vehement
+representation of it which their stage exhibits; and that, leaving the
+charming heights of Belleville, or the sequestered banks of the Seine,
+almost wholly deserted, they crowd to the stiff alleys of the Elysian
+Fields, or the artificial beauties of the gardens of Versailles.
+
+In the midst of Paris this artificial style of gardening is not
+altogether unpleasing; it is in unison, in some measure, with the
+regular character of the buildings with which it is surrounded; and the
+profusion of statues and marble vases continues the impression which the
+character of their palaces is fitted to produce. But at Versailles, at
+St Cloud, and Fountainbleau, amidst the luxuriance of vegetation, and
+surrounded by the majesty of forest scenery, it destroys altogether the
+effect which arises from the irregularity of natural beauty. Every one
+feels straight borders, and square porticoes and broad alleys, to be in
+unison with the immediate neighbourhood of an antiquated mansion; but
+they become painful when extended to those remoter parts of the
+grounds, when the character of the scene is determined by the rudeness
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+There are some occasions, nevertheless, on which the gardens of the
+Thuilleries present a beautiful spectacle, in spite of the artificial
+taste in which they are formed. From the warmth of the climate, the
+Parisians, of all classes, live much in the open air, and frequent the
+public gardens in great numbers during the continuance of the fine
+weather. In the evening especially, they are filled with citizens, who
+repose themselves under the shade of the lofty trees, after the heat and
+the fatigues of the day; and they then present a spectacle of more than
+ordinary interest and beauty. The disposition of the French suits the
+character of the scene, and harmonises with the impression which the
+stillness of the evening produces on the mind. There is none of that
+rioting or confusion by which an assembly of the middling classes in
+England is too often disgraced; no quarrelling or intoxication even
+among the poorest ranks, and little appearance of that degrading want
+which destroys the pleasing idea of public happiness. The people appear
+all to enjoy a certain share of individual prosperity; their intercourse
+is conducted with unbroken harmony, and they seem to resign themselves
+to those delightful feelings which steal over the mind during the
+stillness and serenity of a summer evening.
+
+Still more beautiful perhaps, is the appearance of this scene during the
+stillness of the night, when the moon throws her dubious rays over the
+objects of nature. The gardens of the Thuilleries remain crowded with
+people, who seem to enjoy the repose which universally prevails, and
+from whom no sound is to be heard which can break the stillness or
+serenity of the scene. The regularity of the forms is wholly lost in the
+masses of light and shadow that are there displayed; the foliage throws
+a chequered shade over the ground beneath, while the different vistas of
+the Elysian Fields are seen in that soft and mellow light by which the
+radiance of the moon is so peculiarly distinguished. After passing
+through these favourite scenes of the French people, we frequently came
+to small encampments of the allied troops in the remote parts of the
+grounds. The appearance of these bivouacks, composed of Cossack
+squadrons, Hungarian hussars, or Prussian artillery, in the obscurity of
+moonlight, and surrounded by the gloom of forest scenery, was beyond
+measure striking. The picturesque forms of the soldiers, sleeping on
+their arms under the shade of the trees, or half hid by the rude huts
+which they had erected for their shelter; the varied attitudes of the
+horses standing amidst the waggons by which the camp was followed, or
+sleeping beside the veterans whom they had borne through all the
+fortunes of war; the dark masses of the artillery, dimly discerned in
+the shades of night, or faintly reflecting the pale light of the moon,
+presented a scene of the most beautiful description, in which the rude
+features of war were softened by the tranquillity of peaceful life; and
+the interest of present repose was enhanced by the remembrance of the
+wintry storms and bloody fields through which these brave men had
+passed, during the memorable campaigns in which they had been engaged.
+The effect of the whole was increased by the perfect stillness which
+everywhere prevailed, broken only at intervals by the slow step of the
+sentinel, as he paced his rounds, or the sweeter sounds of those
+beautiful airs, which, in a far distant country, recalled to the Russian
+soldier the joys and the happiness of his native land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+ENVIRONS OF PARIS.
+
+
+St Cloud was the favourite residence of Bonaparte, and, from this
+circumstance, possesses an interest which does not belong to the other
+imperial palaces. It stands high, upon a lofty bank overhanging the
+Seine, which takes a bold sweep in the plain below; and the steep
+declivity which descends to its banks is clothed with magnificent woods
+of aged elms. The character of the scenery is bold and rugged;--the
+trees are of the wildest forms, and the most stupendous height, and the
+banks, for the most part, steep and irregular. It is here, accordingly,
+that the French gardening appears in all its genuine deformity; and that
+its straight walks and endless fountains display a degree of formality
+and art, destructive of the peculiar beauty by which the scene is
+distinguished. These gardens, however, were the favourite and private
+walks of the Emperor;--it was here that he meditated those schemes of
+ambition which were destined to shake the established thrones of
+Europe;--it was under the shade of this luxuriant foliage that he formed
+the plan of all the mighty projects which he had in contemplation;--it
+was in the splendid apartments of this palace that the Councils of
+France assembled, to revolve on the means of permanently destroying the
+English power:--It was here too, by a most remarkable coincidence, that
+his destruction was finally accomplished;--that the last convention was
+concluded, by which his second dethronement was completed;--and that the
+victorious arms of England dictated the terms of surrender to his
+conquered capital.
+
+When we visited St Cloud, it was the head-quarters of Prince
+Schwartzenberg; and the Austrian grenadiers mounted guard at the gates
+of the Imperial Palace. The banks of the Seine, below the Palace, were
+covered by an immense bivouack of Austrian troops, and the fires of
+their encampment twinkled in the obscurity of twilight amidst the low
+brushwood with which the sides of the river were clothed. The
+appearance of this bivouack, dimly discerned through the rugged stems of
+lofty trees, or half-hid by the luxuriant branches which obscured the
+view;--the picturesque and varied aspect of the plain covered with
+waggons, and all the accompaniments of military service;--the columns of
+smoke rising from the fires with which it was interspersed, and the
+innumerable horses crowded amidst the confused multitude of men and
+carriages, or resting in more sequestered spots on the sides of the
+river, with their forms finely reflected in its unruffled
+waters--presented a spectacle which exhibited war in its most striking
+aspect, and gave a character to the scene which would have suited the
+romantic strain of Salvator's mind.
+
+St Germain, though less picturesquely situated than St Cloud, presents
+features, nevertheless, of more than ordinary magnificence. The Palace,
+now converted into a school of military education by Napoleon, is a mean
+irregular building, though it possesses a certain interest, by having
+been long the residence of the exiled house of Stuart. The situation,
+however, is truly fitted for an imperial dwelling; it stands on the edge
+of a high bank overhanging the Seine, at the end a magnificent terrace,
+a mile and a half long, built on the projecting heights which edge the
+river. The walk along this terrace is the finest spectacle which the
+vicinity of Paris has to present. It is backed along its whole extent by
+the extensive forest of St Germain, the foliage of which overhangs the
+road, and in the recesses of which you can occasionally discern those
+beautiful peeps which form the peculiar characteristic of forest
+scenery. The steep bank which descends to the river is clothed with
+orchards and vineyards in all the luxuriance of a southern climate; and
+in front, there is spread beneath your feet the wide plain in which the
+Seine wanders, whose waters are descried at intervals through the woods
+and gardens with which its banks are adorned; while, in the farthest
+distance, the towers of St Denis, and the heights of Paris, form an
+irregular outline on the verge of the horizon. It is a scene exhibiting
+the most beautiful aspect of cultivated nature, and would have been the
+fit residence for a Monarch who loved to survey his subjects' happiness:
+but it was deserted by the miserable weakness of Louis XIV., because the
+view terminated in the cemetery of the Kings of France, and his
+enjoyment of it would have been destroyed by the thoughts of mortal
+decay.
+
+Versailles, which that monarch chose as the ordinary abode of his
+splendid Court, is less favourably situate for a royal dwelling, though
+the view from the great front of the palace is beautifully clothed with
+luxuriant woods. The palace itself is a magnificent building of great
+extent, loaded with the riches of architectural beauty, but destitute of
+that fine proportion and lightness of ornament, which spread so
+indescribable a charm over the Palace of the Louvre. The interior is in
+a state of lamentable decay, having been pillaged at the commencement of
+the revolutionary fury, and formed into a barrack for the republican
+soldiers, the marks of whose violence are still visible in the faded
+splendour of its magnificent apartments. They still shew, however, the
+favourite rooms of Marie Antoinette, the walls of which are covered with
+the finest mirrors, and some remains of the furniture are still
+preserved, which even the licentious fury of the French army seems to
+have been afraid to violate. The gardens on which all the riches of
+France, and all the efforts of art, were so long lavished, present a
+painful monument of the depravity of taste: but the _Petit Trianon_,
+which is a little palace built of marble, and surrounded by shrubberies
+in the English style, exhibits the genuine beauty of which the
+imitation of nature is susceptible. This palace contains a suite of
+splendid apartments, fitted up with singular taste, and adorned with a
+number of charming pictures; it was the favourite residence of Maria
+Louisa, and we were there shewn the drawing materials which she used,
+and some unfinished sketches which she left, in which, we were informed,
+she much delighted, and which bore the marks of a cultivated taste.
+
+We frequently enquired concerning the character and occupations of this
+Empress, at all the palaces where she usually dwelt, and uniformly
+received the same answer:--She was everywhere represented as cold,
+proud, and haughty in her manner, and unconciliating in her ordinary
+address. Her time was much spent in private, in the exercise of
+religious duty, or in needle-work and drawing; and her favourite seat at
+St Cloud was between two windows, from one of which she had a view over
+the beautiful woods which clothe the banks of the river, and from the
+other a distant prospect of the towers and domes of Paris.
+
+Very different was the character which belonged to the former Empress,
+the first wife of Bonaparte, Josephine: She passed the close of her life
+at the delightful retreat of Malmaison, a villa charmingly situated on
+the banks of the Seine, seven miles from Paris, on the road to St
+Germain. This villa had been her favourite residence while she continued
+Empress, and formed her only home after the period of her divorce;--here
+she lived in obscurity and retirement, without any of the pomp of a
+court, or any of the splendour which belonged to her former
+rank,--occupied entirely in the employment of gardening, or in
+alleviating the distresses of those around her. The shrubberies and
+gardens were laid out with singular beauty, in the English taste, and
+contained a vast variety of rare flowers, which she had for a long
+period been collecting. These shrubberies were to her the source of
+never-failing enjoyment; she spent many hours in them every day, working
+herself, or superintending the occupations of others; and in these
+delightful occupations seemed to return again to all the innocence and
+happiness of youth. She was beloved to the greatest degree by all the
+poor who inhabited the vicinity of her retreat, both for the gentleness
+of her manner, and her unwearied attention to their sufferings and their
+wants; and during the whole period of her retirement, she retained the
+esteem and affection of all classes of French citizens. The Emperor
+Alexander visited her repeatedly during the stay of the allied armies
+in Paris; and her death occasioned an universal feeling of regret,
+rarely to be met with amidst the corruption and selfishness of the
+French metropolis.
+
+There was something singularly striking in the history and character of
+this remarkable woman:--Born in a humble station, without any of the
+advantages which rank or education could afford, she was early involved
+in all the unspeakable miseries of the French revolution, and was
+extricated from her precarious situation only by being united to that
+extraordinary man, whose crimes and whose ambition have spread misery
+through every country of Europe: Rising through all the gradations of
+rank through which he passed, she everywhere commanded the esteem and
+regard of all those who had access to admire her private virtues; and
+when at length she was raised to the rank of Empress, she graced the
+imperial throne with all the charities and virtues of a humbler station.
+She bore, with unexampled magnanimity, the sacrifice of power and of
+influence which she was compelled to make: She carried into the
+obscurity of humble life all the dignity of mind which befitted the
+character of an Empress of France; and exercised, in the delightful
+occupations of country life, or in the alleviation of the severity of
+individual distress, that firmness of mind and gentleness of
+disposition, with which she had lightened the weight of imperial
+dominion, and softened the rigour of despotic power.
+
+The Forest of Fontainbleau exhibits scenery of a more picturesque and
+striking character than is to be met with in any other part of the north
+of France. It is situated 40 miles from Paris, on the great road to
+Rome, and the appearance of the country through which this road runs, is
+for the most part flat and uninteresting. It runs through a continued
+plain, in a straight line between tall rows of elm trees, whose lower
+branches are uniformly cut off for firewood to the peasantry; and
+exhibits, for the most part, no other feature than the continued riches
+of agricultural produce. At the distance of seven miles from the town of
+Fontainbleau, you first discern the forest, covering a vast ridge of
+rocks, stretching as far as the eye can reach, from right to left, and
+presenting a dark irregular outline on the surface of the horizon. The
+cultivation continues, with all its uniformity, to the very foot of the
+ridge; but the moment you pass the boundaries of the forest, you find
+yourself surrounded at once with all the wildness and luxuriance of
+natural scenery. The surface of the ground is broken and irregular,
+rising at times into vast piles of shapeless rocks, and enclosing at
+others small vallies, in which the wood grows in endless beauty,
+unblighted by the chilling blasts of northern climates. In these
+vallies, the oak, the ash, and the beech, exhibit the peculiar
+magnificence of forest scenery, while, on the neighbouring hills, the
+birch waves its airy foliage round the dark masses of rock which
+terminate the view. Nothing can be conceived more striking than the
+scenery which this variety of rock and wood produce in every part of
+this romantic forest. At times you pass through an unbroken mass of aged
+timber, surrounded by the native grandeur of forest scenery, and
+undisturbed by any traces of human habitation, except in those rude
+paths which occasionally open a passing view into the remoter parts of
+the forest. At others, the path winds through great masses of rock,
+piled in endless confusion upon each other, in the crevices of which the
+fern and the heath grow in all the luxuriance of southern vegetation;
+while their summits are covered by aged oaks of the wildest forms, whose
+crossing boughs throw an eternal shade over the ravines below, and
+afford room only to discern at the farthest distance the summits of
+those beautiful hills, on which the light foliage of the birch trembles
+in the ray of an unclouded sun, or waves on the blue of a summer
+heaven.
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the beautiful scenery of
+the Trosachs in Scotland, of Matlock in Derbyshire, or of the wooded
+Fells in Cumberland, it may afford some idea of the Forest of
+Fontainbleau, to say that it combines scenery of a similar description
+with the aged magnificence of Windsor Forest. Over its whole extent
+there are scattered many detached oaks of vast dimensions, which seem to
+be of an older race in the growth of the Forest,--whose lowest boughs
+stretch above the top of the wood which surrounds them,--and whose
+decayed summits afford a striking contrast to the young and luxuriant
+foliage with which their stems are enveloped. When we visited
+Fontainbleau, it was occupied by the old imperial guard, which still
+remained in that station after the abdication of Bonaparte; and we
+frequently met parties, or detached stragglers of them, wandering in the
+most solitary parts of the Forest. Their warlike and weather-beaten
+appearance; their battered arms and worn accoutrements; the dark plumes
+of their helmets, and the sallow ferocious aspect of their countenances,
+suited the savage character of the scenery with which they were
+surrounded, and threw over the gloom and solitude of the Forest that
+wild expression with which the genius of Salvator dignified the features
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+The town and palace of Fontainbleau are situate in a small plain near
+the centre of the forest, and surrounded on all sides by the rocky
+ridges with which it is everywhere intersected. The palace is a large
+irregular building, composed of many squares, and fitted up in the
+inside with the utmost splendour of imperial magnificence. We were there
+shewn the apartments in which Napoleon dwelt during his stay in the
+palace, after the capture of Paris by the allied troops; and the desk at
+which he always wrote, and where his abdication was signed. It was
+covered with white leather, scratched over in every direction, and
+marked with innumerable wipings of the pen, among which we perceived his
+own name, Napoleon, frequently written as in a very hurried and
+irregular hand; and one sentence which began, Que Dieu, Napoleon,
+Napoleon. The servants in the palace agreed in stating, that the
+Emperor's gaiety and fortitude of mind never deserted him during the
+ruin of his fortune; that he was engaged in his writing-chamber during
+the greater part of the day, and walked for two hours on the terrace, in
+close conversation with Marshal Ney. Several officers of the imperial
+guard repeated the speech which he made to his troops on leaving them
+after his abdication of the throne, which was precisely what appeared
+in the English newspapers. So great was the enthusiasm produced by this
+speech among the soldiers present, that it was received with shouts and
+cries of Vive l'Empereur, A Paris, A Paris! and when he departed under
+the custody of the allied Commissioners, the whole army wept; there was
+not a dry eye in the multitude who were assembled to witness his
+departure. Even the imperial guard, who had been trained in scenes of
+suffering from their first entry into the service--who had been inured
+for a long course of years to the daily sight of human misery, and had
+constantly made a sport of all the afflictions which are fitted to move
+the human heart, shared in the general grief; they seemed to forget the
+degradation in which their commander was involved, the hardships to
+which they had been exposed, and the destruction which he had brought
+upon their brethren in arms; they remembered him when he stood
+victorious on the field of Austerlitz, or passed in triumph through the
+gates of Moscow; and shed over the fall of their Emperor those tears of
+genuine sorrow which they denied to the deepest scenes of private
+suffering, or the most aggravated instances of individual distress. It
+is impossible not to regret that feelings so exalting to human nature
+should have been awakened by one who shared so little in their
+enthusiasm himself; that the sufferings of thousands should have been
+forgotten in the fate of one to whom the miseries of others never
+afforded a subject of regret; and that the only occasion on which
+generous sentiments were manifested by the French army, should have been
+the overthrow of that power by which their ambition and their wickedness
+had been supported.
+
+We had the good fortune to see the infantry of the old guard drawn up in
+line in the streets of Fontainbleau, and their appearance was such as
+fully answered the idea we had formed of that body of veteran soldiers,
+who had borne the French eagles through every capital of Europe. Their
+aspect was bold and martial; there was a keenness in their eyes which
+bespoke the characteristic intelligence of the French soldiers, and a
+ferocity in the expression of their countenances which seemed to have
+been unsubdued even by the unparalleled disasters in which their country
+had been involved. The people of the town itself complained in the
+bitterest terms of their licentious conduct, and repeatedly said, that
+they dreaded them more as friends than the Cossacks themselves as
+enemies. They seemed to harbour the most unbounded resentment against
+the people of this country; their countenances bore the expression of
+the strongest enmity as we walked along their line, and we frequently
+heard them mutter among themselves, in the most emphatic manner, _Sacre
+Dieu, voila des Anglois!_--Whatever the atrocity of their conduct,
+however, might have been, to the people of their own, as well as every
+other country, it was impossible not to feel the strongest emotion at
+the sight of the veteran soldiers whose exploits had so long rivetted
+the attention of all who felt an interest in the civilized world. These
+were the men who first raised the glory of the republican armies on the
+plains of Italy; who survived the burning climate of Egypt, and chained
+victory to the imperial standards at Jena, at Austerlitz, and at
+Friedland--who followed the career of victory to the walls of the
+Kremlin, and marched undaunted through the ranks of death amid the snows
+of Russia;--who witnessed the ruin of France under the walls of Leipsic,
+and struggled to save her falling fortune on the heights of Laon; and
+who preserved, in the midst of national humiliation, and when surrounded
+by the mighty foreign Powers, that undaunted air and unshaken firmness,
+which, even in the moment of defeat, commanded the respect of their
+antagonists in arms.
+
+Beyond the town of Fontainbleau, there rises a ridge of steep hills,
+which prevents any view in that direction into the distant parts of the
+forest. The road to their summit lies through the Imperial Gardens, and
+is surrounded by the artificial forms and regular walks which mark the
+character of the French gardening. When you reach the summit, however,
+the character of the scene instantly changes, and you pass at once into
+the utmost wildness of desolated nature. The foreground is broken by
+barren rock, or covered with the beautiful forms of the weeping birch;
+immediately below there lies a lonely valley, strewed with masses of
+grey stone, without the slightest trace of human habitation, while, in
+the farthest distance, the forest is discerned, clothing the sides of
+those broken ridges which rise in endless confusion on the surface of
+the horizon. At the moment when we reached this spot, the sun was
+setting in the west; the cold grey of the stone which covered the
+ravines was dimly discerned through the obscure light which the approach
+of night produced, while the rugged outline of the rocks beyond was
+projected in the deepest shadow on the bright light of the departing
+day.
+
+There is no scenery round Paris so striking as the forest of
+Fontainbleau, but the heights of Belleville exhibit nature in a more
+pleasing aspect, and are distinguished by features of a gentler
+character. Montmartre, and the ridge of Belleville, form those
+celebrated heights which command Paris on the northern side, and which
+were so obstinately contested between the allies and the French on the
+30th March 1814, previous to the capture of Paris by the allied
+Sovereigns. Montmartre is covered for the most part with houses, and
+presents nothing to attract the eye of the observer, except the
+extensive view which is to be met with at its summit. The heights of
+Belleville, however, are varied with wood, with orchards, vineyards, and
+gardens, interspersed with cottages and villas, and cultivated with the
+utmost care. There are few inclosures, but the whole extent of the
+ground is thickly studded with walnuts, fruit-trees, and forest timber,
+which, from a distance, give it the appearance of one continued wood. On
+a nearer approach, however, you find it intersected in every direction
+by small paths, which wind among the vineyards, or through the woods
+with which the hills are covered, and present at every turn those
+charming little scenes which form the peculiar characteristic of
+woodland scenery. The cottages half hid by the profusion of
+fruit-trees, or embosomed in the luxuriant woods with which they are
+everywhere surrounded, increase the interest which the scenery itself is
+fitted to produce: they combine the delightful idea of the peasant's
+enjoyment with the beauty of the spot on which his dwelling is placed;
+and awaken, in the midst of the boundless luxuriance of vegetable
+nature, those deeper feelings of moral delight, which spring from the
+contemplation of human happiness.
+
+To a northern eye, there is nothing so delightful as this luxuriance of
+vegetation, which rises amidst the warmth of southern climates. The
+sterile rocks and rugged mountains of northern regions exhibit nature in
+her native rudeness, her features bear a harsher aspect, and her forms
+are expressive of more melancholy feeling; but under the genial warmth
+of a southern sun, she is arrayed in a robe of softer colours, and beams
+with the expression of a gentler character. She there appears surrounded
+by the luxuriance of vegetable life: she pours forth her bounty with a
+profusion which the partizans of utility would call prodigality, and
+covers the earth with a splendour of beauty, which serves no other
+purpose than to minister to the delight of human existence. Amidst the
+riches with which man is surrounded, his destiny appears happier than
+in more desolate situations; we forget the sufferings of the individual
+in the profusion of beauty with which he is surrounded; and impute to
+the inhabitants of these delightful regions, those feelings of happiness
+which spring in our own minds from the contemplation of the scenery in
+which they are placed.
+
+The effect of the charming scenery on the heights of Belleville is much
+increased by the distant objects which terminate some parts of the view.
+To the east, the high and gloomy towers of Vincennes rise over the
+beautiful woods with which the sides of the hill are adorned, and give
+an air of solemnity to the scene, arising from the remembrance of the
+tragic events of which it was the theatre. To the south, the domes and
+spires of Paris can occasionally be discovered through the openings of
+the wood with which the foreground is enriched, and present the capital
+at that pleasing distance, when the minuter part of the buildings are
+concealed, when its prominent features alone are displayed, and the
+whole is softened by the obscure light which distance throws over the
+objects of nature. To an English mind, the effect of the whole is
+infinitely increased, by the animating associations with which this
+scenery is connected;--by the remembrance of the mighty struggle between
+freedom and slavery, which was here terminated;--of the heroic deeds
+which were here performed, and the unequalled magnanimity which was here
+displayed. It was here that the expiring efforts of military despotism
+were overthrown--that the armies of Russia stood triumphant over the
+power of France, and nobly avenged the ashes of their own capital, by
+sparing that of their prostrate enemy.
+
+When we visited the heights of Belleville, the traces of the recent
+struggle were visibly imprinted on the villages and woods with which the
+hill is covered. The marks of blood were still to be discerned on the
+chaussée which leads through the village of Pantin; the elm trees which
+line the road were cut asunder, or bored through with cannon shot, and
+their stems riddled in many parts with the incessant fire of the grape
+shot. The houses in La Villette, Belleville and Pantin, were covered
+with the marks of musket shot; the windows of many were shattered, or
+wholly destroyed, and the interior of the rooms broken by the balls
+which seemed to have pierced every part of the buildings. So thickly
+were the houses in some places covered with these marks, that it
+appeared almost incredible how any one could have escaped from so
+destructive a fire. Even the beautiful gardens with which the slope of
+the heights are adorned, and the inmost recesses of the wood of
+Romainville, bore throughout the marks of the desperate struggles which
+they had lately witnessed, and exhibited the symptoms of fracture or
+destruction in the midst of the luxuriance of natural beauty; yet,
+though they had so recently been the scene of mortal combat; though the
+ashes of the dead yet lay in heaps on different parts of the field of
+battle, the prolific powers of nature were undecayed: the vines
+clustered round the broken fragments of the instruments of war,--the
+corn spread a sweeter green over the fields, which were yet wet with
+human blood, and the trees waved with renovated beauty over the
+uncoffined remains of the departed brave; emblematic of the decay of
+man, and of the immortality of nature.
+
+The French have often been accused of selfishness, and the indifference
+which they often manifest to the fate of their relations, affords too
+much reason to believe that the social affections have little permanent
+influence on their minds. We must, however, admit, that they exhibit in
+misfortunes of a different kind--in calamities which really press upon
+their own enjoyments of life, the same gaiety of heart, and the same
+undisturbed equanimity of disposition. That gaiety in misfortune, which
+is so painful to every observer, when it is to be found in the midst of
+family-distress, becomes delightful when it exists under the deprivation
+of the selfish gratification to which the individual had been
+accustomed. Both here, and in other parts of France, where the houses of
+the peasants had been wholly destroyed by the allied armies, we had
+occasion frequently to observe and admire the equanimity of mind with
+which these poor people bore the loss of all their property. For an
+extent of 30 miles in one direction, towards the North of Champagne,
+every house near the great road had-been burnt or pillaged for the
+firewood which it contained, both by the French and the allied armies,
+and the people were everywhere compelled to sleep in the open air. When
+we spoke to them on the subject of their losses, they answered with
+smiles, "Tout est detruit: tout est brulè, tout, tout;" and seemed to
+derive amusement from the completeness of the devastation. The men were
+everywhere rebuilding their fallen walls, with a cheerfulness which
+never would have existed in England under similar circumstances; and the
+little children laboured in the gardens during the day, and slept under
+the vines at night, without exhibiting any signs of distress for their
+disconsolate situation. In many places, we saw groupes of these little
+children in the midst of the ruined houses, or under the shattered
+trees, playing with the musket shot, or trying to roll the cannon balls
+by which the destruction of their dwellings had been
+effected;--exhibiting a picture of youthful joy and native innocence,
+while sporting with the instruments of human destruction, which the
+genius of Sir Joshua Reynolds would have moulded into the expression of
+pathetic feeling, or employed as the means of moral improvement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+PARIS--THE LOUVRE.
+
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the pictures and statues
+which were preserved in the Louvre, all description of these works must
+appear superfluous; and to those who have not had this good fortune,
+such an attempt could convey no adequate idea of the objects which are
+described. There is nothing more uninteresting than the catalogue of
+pictures which are to be found in the works of many modern travellers;
+nor any thing in general more ridiculous than the ravings of admiration
+with which this catalogue is described, and with which the reader in
+general is little disposed to sympathise. Without attempting,
+therefore, to enumerate the great works which were there to be met with,
+we shall confine ourselves to a simpler object, to the delineation of
+the _general character_ by which the different schools of painting are
+distinguished, and the great features in which they all differ from the
+sculpture of ancient times. For the justice of these observations, we
+must of course appeal to those who have examined this great collection;
+and in the prosecution of them, we pretend to nothing more than the
+simple account of the feelings which, we are persuaded, must have
+occurred to all those who have viewed it without any knowledge of the
+rules which art has established, or the more despicable principles which
+connoisseurs have maintained.
+
+For an attempt of this kind, the Louvre presented, singular advantages,
+from the unparalleled collection of paintings of every school and
+description which was there to be met with, and the facility with which
+you could trace the progress of the art from its first beginning to the
+period of its greatest perfection. And it is in this view that the
+collection of these works into one museum, however much to be deplored
+as the work of unprincipled ambition, and however much it may have
+diminished the impression which particular objects, from the influence
+of association, produced in their native place, was yet calculated, we
+conceive, to produce the greatest of all improvements in the progress of
+the art, by divesting particular schools and particular works of the
+unbounded influence which the effect of early association, or the
+prejudices of national feeling, have given them in their original
+situation, and placing them where their real nature is to be judged of
+by a more extended circle, and subjected to the examination of more
+impartial sentiments.
+
+The character of every school of painting has been determined by some
+peculiar circumstances under which that school first originated, which
+have contributed to form its greatest excellencies, and been the real
+source of its principal defects; and it has unfortunately happened, that
+the unbounded admiration for the great production of these schools has
+everywhere formed the national taste, and tended to perpetuate their
+errors, when the progress of society would otherwise have led to their
+earlier abandonment. It deserves well to be considered, therefore,
+whether the restoration of these monuments of art to their original
+situations, while it must unquestionably enhance the veneration with
+which they will severally be regarded, may not perpetuate the defects
+which particular circumstances have stamped on their school of
+composition; and whether the continuance of them in one vast collection,
+however fatal to the implicit veneration for the works of antiquity, was
+not calculated, by the comparison of their excellencies and the
+exhibition of their defects, to form a new school, possessed of a more
+general character, and adapted for the admiration of a more unbiassed
+public. It is in the despotic reign of arbitrary governments, if we may
+be allowed, in a discussion on matters of taste, to borrow an
+illustration from politics, that the influence of ancient error, and the
+power of ancient prejudice, is most unbounded; but it is in the
+unbiassed discussion which distinguishes a free state, that the
+influence of prejudice is forgotten, and truth emerges from the
+collision of opposite opinions. However this may be, it will not, it is
+hoped, be deemed an useless attempt, if we now endeavour to state, in a
+few words, the impression which was produced by this great collection of
+the works of art, which has been felt, we doubt not, by all who have
+viewed it with untutored eyes, but has not hitherto been described by
+those so much better able to do justice to it than ourselves.
+
+The first hall of the Louvre in the Picture Gallery is filled with
+paintings of the French school. The principal artists whose works are
+here exhibited are, Le Brun, Gaspar and Nicolas Poussin, Claude Lorrain,
+Vernet, and the modern painters Gerard and David. The general character
+of the school of French historical painting, is the expression of
+_passion and violent emotion_. The colouring is for the most part
+brilliant; the canvas crowded with figures, and the incident selected,
+that in which the painter might have the best opportunity of displaying
+his knowledge of the human frame, or the varied expression of the human
+countenance. In the pictures of the modern school of French painting,
+this peculiarity is pushed to an extravagant length, and, fortunately
+for the art, displays the false principles on which the system of their
+composition is founded. The moment seized is uniformly that of the
+strongest and most violent passion; the principal actors in the piece
+are represented in a state of phrenzied exertion, and the whole
+anatomical knowledge of the artist is displayed in the endless
+contortions into which the human frame is thrown. In David's celebrated
+picture of the three Horatii, this peculiarity appears in the most
+striking light. The works of this artist may excite admiration, but it
+is the limited and artificial admiration of the schools; of those who
+have forgot the end of the art in the acquisition of the technical
+knowledge with which it is accompanied, or the display of the technical
+powers which its execution involves.
+
+The paintings of _Vernet_, in this collection, are perhaps the finest
+specimens of that beautiful master, and they entitle him to a higher
+place in the estimation of mankind than he seems yet to have obtained
+from the generality of observers. There is a delicacy of colouring, an
+unity of design, and a harmony of expression in his works, which accord
+well with the simplicity of the subjects which his taste has selected,
+and the general effect which it was his object to produce. In the
+representation of the sun dispelling the mists of a cloudy morning; of
+his setting rays gilding the waves of a western sea; or of that
+undefined beauty which moonlight throws over the objects of nature, the
+works of this artist are perhaps unrivalled.
+
+The paintings of _Claude_ are by no means equal to what we had expected,
+from the celebrity which his name has acquired, or the matchless beauty
+which the engravings from him possess. They are but eleven in number,
+and cannot be in any degree compared with those which are to be found in
+Mr Angerstein's collection. To those, however, who have been accustomed
+to study the designs of this great master, through the medium of the
+engraved copies, and above all, in the unrivalled works of Woollet, the
+sight of the original pictures must, perhaps at all times, create a
+feeling of disappointment. There is an unity of effect in the engravings
+which can never be met with amidst the distraction of colouring in the
+original pictures; and the imagination clothes the beautiful shades of
+the copy with finer tints than even the pencil of Claude has been able
+to supply. "I have shewn you," said Corinne to Oswald, "St Peter's for
+the first time, when the brilliancy of its decorations might appear in
+full splendour, in the rays of the sun: I reserve for you a finer, and a
+more profound enjoyment, to behold it by the light of the moon." Perhaps
+there is a distinction of the same kind between the gaudy brilliancy of
+varied colours, and the chaster simplicity of uniform shadows; and it is
+probably for this reason, that on the first view of a picture which you
+have long admired in the simplicity of engraved effect, you
+involuntarily recede from the view, and seek in the obscure light and
+uncertain tint which distance produces, to recover that uniform tone and
+general character, which the splendour of colouring is so apt to
+destroy. It is a feeling similar to that which Lord Byron has so finely
+described, as arising from the beauty of moonlight scenery:--
+
+    ------"Mellow'd to that tender light
+    Which Heaven to gaudy day denies."
+
+The Dutch and Flemish school, to which you next advance, possesses
+merit, and is distinguished by a character of a very different
+description. It was the well-known object of this school, to present an
+exact and faithful _imitation of nature_; to exaggerate none of its
+faults, and enhance none of its excellencies, but exhibit it as it
+really appears to the eye of an ordinary spectator. Its artists
+selected, in general, some scene of humour or amusement, in the
+discovery of which, the most ignorant spectators might discover other
+sources of pleasure than those which the merit of the art itself
+afforded. They did not pretend, in general, to aim at the exhibition of
+passion or powerful emotion: their paintings, therefore, are free from
+that painful display of theatrical effect, which characterises the
+French school; their object was not to represent those deep scenes of
+sorrow or suffering, which accord with the profound feelings which it
+was the object of the Italian school to awaken; they want, therefore,
+the dignity and grandeur which the works of the greater Italian
+painters possess: their merit consists in the faithful delineation of
+those ordinary scenes and common occurrences, which are familiar to the
+eye of the most careless observer. The power of the painter, therefore,
+could be displayed only in the minuteness of the finishing, or the
+brilliancy of the effect; and he endeavoured, by the powerful contrast
+of light and shade, to give an higher character to his works, than the
+nature of their subject could otherwise admit.
+
+The pictures of Teniers, Ostade, and Gerard Dow, possess these merits,
+and are distinguished by this character in the highest degree; but their
+qualities are so well known in this country, as to render any
+observation on them superfluous. There is a very great collection here
+preserved of the works of Rembrandt, and their design and effect bear,
+in general, a higher character than belongs to most of the works of this
+celebrated master.
+
+In one respect, the collection in the Louvre is altogether
+unrivalled--in the number and beauty of the _Wouvermans_ which are there
+to be met with; nor is it possible, without having seen it, to
+appreciate, with any degree of justice, the variety of design, the
+accuracy of drawing, or delicacy of finishing, which distinguish his
+works from those of any other painter of a similar description. There
+are 38 of his pieces there assembled, all in the finest state of
+preservation, and all displaying the same unrivalled beauty of colouring
+and execution. In their design, however, they widely differ; and they
+exhibit, in the most striking manner, the real object to which painting
+should be applied, and the causes of the errors in which its composition
+has been involved. His works, for the most part, are crowded with
+figures; his subjects are in general battle-pieces, or spectacles of
+military pomp, or the animated scenes which the chace presents; and he
+seems to have exhausted all the efforts of his genius, in the variety of
+incident and richness of execution, which these subjects are fitted to
+afford. From the confused and indeterminate expression, however, which
+the multitude of their objects exhibit, we turn with delight to those
+simpler scenes in which his mind seems to have reposed, after the
+fatigues which it had undergone: to the representation of a single
+incident, or the delineation of a certain occurrence--to the rest of the
+traveller after the fatigues of the day--to the repose of the horse in
+the intermission of labour--to the return of the soldier after the
+dangers of the campaign;--scenes, in which every thing combines for the
+uniform character, and where the genius of the artist has been able to
+give to the rudest occupations of men, and even to the objects of animal
+life, the expression of general poetical feeling.
+
+The pictures of _Vandyke_ and _Rubens_ belong to a much higher school
+than that which rose out of the wealth and the limited taste of the
+Dutch people. There are 60 pieces of the latter of these masters in the
+Louvre, and, combined with the celebrated Gallery in the Luxembourg
+Palace, they form the finest assemblage of them which is to be met with
+in the world. The character of his works differs essentially from that
+both of the French and the Dutch schools; he was employed, not in
+painting cabinet pictures for wealthy merchants, but in designing great
+altar pieces for splendid churches, or commemorating the glory of
+sovereigns in imperial galleries. The greatness of his genius rendered
+him fit to attempt the representation of the most complicated and
+difficult objects; but in the confidence of this genius, he seems to
+have lost sight of the genuine object of composition in his art. He
+attempts what it is impossible for painting to accomplish--he aims at
+telling a whole story by the expression of a single picture; and seems
+to pour forth the profusion of his fancy, by crowding his canvas with a
+multiplicity of figures, which serve no other purpose than that of
+shewing the endless power of creation which the author possessed. In
+each figure there is great vigour of conception, and admirable power of
+execution; but the whole possesses no general character, and produces no
+permanent emotion. There is a mixture of allegory and truth in many of
+his greatest works, which is always painful; a grossness in his
+conception of the female form, which destroys the symmetry of female
+beauty; and a wildness of imagination in his general design, which
+violates the feelings of ordinary taste. You survey his pictures with
+astonishment--at the power of thought and brilliancy of colouring which
+they display; but they produce no lasting impression on the mind; they
+have struck no chord of feeling or emotion, and you leave them with no
+other feeling, than that of regret, that the confusion of objects
+destroys the effect which each in itself might be fitted to produce. And
+if one has made a deeper impression; if you dwell on it with that
+delight which it should ever be the object of painting to produce, you
+find that your pleasure proceeds from a single figure, or the expression
+of a detached part of the picture; and that, in the contemplation of it,
+you have, without being conscious of it, detached your mind from the
+observation of all that might interfere with its characteristic
+expression, and thus preserved that unity of emotion which is essential
+to the existence of the emotion of taste, but which the confusion of
+incident is so apt to destroy.
+
+A few landscapes by _Ruysdael_ are to be here met with, which are
+distinguished by that boldness of conception, fidelity of execution, and
+coldness of colouring, which have often been remarked as the
+characteristics of this powerful master.
+
+It is in the Italian school, however, that the collection in the Louvre
+is most unrivalled, and it is from its character that the general
+tendency of the modern school of historical painting is principally to
+be determined.
+
+The general object of the Italian school appears to be the expression of
+_passion_. The peculiar subjects which its painters were called on to
+represent, the sufferings and death of our Saviour, the varied
+misfortunes to which his disciples were exposed, or the multiplied
+persecutions which the early fathers of the church had to sustain,
+inevitably prescribed the object to which their genius was to be
+directed, and the peculiar character which their works, were to assume.
+They have all, accordingly, aimed at the expression of passion, and
+endeavoured to excite the pity, or awaken the sympathy of the spectator;
+though the particular species of passion which they have severally
+selected, has varied with the turn of mind which the artist possessed.
+
+The works of _Dominichino_ and of the _Caraccis_, of which there are a
+very great number, incline, in general, to the representation of what is
+dark or gloomy in character, or what is terrific and appalling in
+suffering. The subjects which the first of these masters has in general
+selected, are the cells of monks, the energy of martyrs, or the
+sufferings of the crucifixion; and the dark-blue coldness of his
+colouring, combined with the depth of his shadows, accord well with the
+gloomy character which his compositions possess. The _Caraccis_, amidst
+the variety of objects which their genius has embraced, have dwelt, in
+general, upon the expression of sorrow--of that deep and profound sorrow
+which the subjects of Sacred History were so fitted to afford, and which
+was so well adapted to that religious emotion which it was their object
+to excite.
+
+Guido Reni, Carlo Maratti, and Murillo, are distinguished by a gentler
+character; by the expression of tenderness and sweetness of
+disposition: and the subjects which they have chosen are, for the most
+part, those which were fitted for the display of this predominant
+expression--the Holy Family, the flight into Egypt, the youth of St
+John, the penitence of the Magdalene. While, in common with all their
+brethren, they have aimed at the expression of emotion, it was an
+emotion of a softer kind than that which arose from the energy of
+passion, or the violence of suffering; it was the emotion produced by
+more permanent feelings; and less turbulent affections; and from the
+character of this emotion, their execution has assumed a peculiar cast,
+and their composition been governed by a peculiar principle. Their
+colouring is seldom brilliant; there is a subdued tone pervading the
+greater part of their pictures; and they have limited themselves, in
+general, to the delineation of a single figure, or a small group, in
+which a single character of mind is prevalent.
+
+Of the numerous and splendid collection of _Titian's_ which are here
+preserved, it is not necessary to give any description, because they
+consist for the most part of portraits, and our object is not to dwell
+on the richness of colouring, or powers of execution, but on the
+principles of composition by which the different schools of painting
+are distinguished.
+
+There are only six paintings by Salvator Rosa in this collection, but
+they bear that wild and original character which is proverbially known
+to belong to the works of this great artist. One of his pieces is
+particularly striking, a skirmish of horse, accompanied by all the
+scenery in which he so peculiarly delighted. In the foreground is the
+ruins of an old temple, with its lofty pillars finely displayed in
+shadow above the summits of the horizon;--in the middle distance the
+battle is dimly discerned through the driving rain, which obscures the
+view; while the back ground is closed by a vast ridge of gloomy rocks,
+rising into a dark and tempestuous sky. The character of the whole is
+that of sullen magnificence; and it affords a striking instance of the
+power of great genius, to mould the most varied objects in nature into
+the expression of one uniform poetical feeling.
+
+Very different is the expression which belongs to the softer pictures of
+Correggio--of that great master, whose name is associated in every one's
+mind with all that is gentle or delicate in the imitation of nature.
+Perhaps it was from the force of this impression that his works did not
+completely come up to the expectations which we had been led to form.
+They are but eight in number, and do not comprehend the finest of his
+compositions. Their general character is that of tenderness and
+delicacy: there is a softness in his shading of the human form which is
+quite unrivalled, and a harmony in the general tone of his colouring,
+which is in perfect unison with the characteristic expression which it
+was his object to produce. You feel a want of unity, however, in the
+composition of his figures; you dwell rather on the fine expression of
+individual form, than the combined tendency of the whole group, and
+leave the picture with the impression of the beauty of a single
+countenance, rather than the general character of the whole design. He
+has represented nature in its most engaging aspect, and given to
+individual figures all the charms of ideal beauty; but he wants that
+high strain of spiritual feeling, which belongs only to the works of
+Raphael.
+
+The only work of Carlo Dolci in the Louvre is a small cabinet picture;
+but it alone is sufficient to mark the exquisite genius which its author
+possessed. It is of small dimensions, and represents the Holy Family,
+with the Saviour asleep. The finest character of design is here combined
+with the utmost delicacy of execution; the softness of the shadows
+exceeds Correggio himself; and the dark-blue colouring which prevails
+over the whole, is in perfect unison with the expression of that rest
+and quiet which the subject requires. The sleep of the Infant is
+perfection itself--it is the deep sleep of youth and of innocence, which
+no care has disturbed, and no sorrow embittered, and in the unbroken
+repose of which the features have relaxed into the expression of perfect
+happiness. All the features of the picture are in unison with this
+expression, except in the tender anxiety of the Virgin's eye; and all is
+at rest in the surrounding objects, save where her hand gently removes
+the veil to contemplate the unrivalled beauty of the Saviour's
+countenance.
+
+Without the softness of shading or the harmony of colour which Correggio
+possessed, the works of Raphael possess a higher character, and aim at
+the expression of a sublimer feeling, than those of any other artist
+whom modern Europe has produced. Like all his brethren, he has often
+been misled from the real object of of his art, and tried, in the energy
+of passion, or the confused expression of varied figures, to multiply
+the effect which his composition might produce. Like all the rest, he
+has failed in effecting what the constitution of the human mind renders
+impossible, and in this very failure, warned every succeeding age of the
+vanity of the attempt which his transcendent genius was unable to
+effect. It is this fundamental error that destroys the effect, even of
+his finest pieces; it is this, combined with the unapproachable nature
+of the presence which it reveals, that has rendered the Transfiguration
+itself a chaos of genius rather than a model of ideal beauty; nor will
+it, we hope, be deemed a presumptuous excess, if we venture to express
+our sentiments in regard to this great author, since it is from his own
+works alone that we have derived the means of appreciating his
+imperfections.
+
+It is in his smaller pieces that the genuine character of Raphael's
+paintings is to be seen--in the figure of St Michael subduing the demon;
+in the beautiful tenderness of the Virgin and Child; in the unbroken
+harmony of the Holy Family; in the wildness and piety of the infant St
+John;--scenes, in which all the objects of the picture combine for the
+preservation of one uniform character, and where the native fineness of
+his mind appears undisturbed by the display of temporary passion, or the
+painful distraction of varied suffering.
+
+There are no pictures of the English school in the Louvre, for the arms
+of France never prevailed in our island. From the splendid character,
+however, which it early assumed under the distinguished guidance of Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, and from the high and philosophical principles which he
+at first laid down for the government of the art, there is every reason
+to believe that it ultimately will rival the celebrity of foreign
+genius; And it is in this view that the continuance of the gallery of
+the Louvre was principally to be wished by the English nation--that the
+English artists might possess, so near their own country, so great a
+school for composition and design; that the imperfections of foreign
+schools might enlighten the views of English genius; and that the
+conquests of the French arms, by transferring the remains of ancient
+taste to these northern shores, might give greater facilities to the
+progress of our art, than can exist when they are restored to their
+legitimate possessors.
+
+The great object, then, of all the modern schools of historical
+painting, seems to have been, the delineation of an _affecting scene_ or
+_interesting occurrence_; they have endeavoured to tell a story by the
+variety of incidents in a single picture; and seized, for the most part,
+the moment when passion was at its greatest height, or suffering
+appeared in its most excruciating form. The general character,
+accordingly, of the school, is the expression of passion or violent
+suffering; and in the prosecution of this object, they have endeavoured
+to exhibit it under all its aspects, and display all the effects which
+it could possibly produce on the human form, by the different figures
+which they have introduced. While this is the general character of the
+whole, there are of course numerous exceptions; and many of its greatest
+painters seem, in the representation of single figures, or in the
+composition of smaller groups, to have had in view the expression of
+less turbulent affections; to have aimed at the display of settled
+emotion, or permanent feeling, and to have excluded every thing from
+their composition which was not in unison with this predominant
+expression.
+
+The _Sculpture Gallery_, which contains 220 remains of ancient statuary,
+marks, in the most decided manner, the different objects to which this
+noble art was applied in ancient times. Unlike the paintings of modern
+Europe, their figures are almost uniformly at rest; they exclude passion
+or violent suffering from their design; and the moment which they select
+is not that in which a particular or transient emotion may be
+displayed, but in which the settled character of mind may be expressed.
+With the two exceptions of the Laocoon and the Fighting Gladiator, there
+are none of the statues in the Louvre which are not the representation
+of the human figure in a state of repose; and the expression which the
+finest possess, is invariably that permanent expression which has
+resulted from the habitual frame and character of mind. Their figures
+seem to belong to a higher class of beings than that in which we are
+placed; they indicate a state in which passion, anxiety, and emotion are
+no more; and where the unruffled repose of mind has moulded the features
+into the perfect expression of the mental character. Even the
+countenance of the Venus de Medicis, the most beautiful which it has
+ever entered into the mind of man to conceive, and of which no copy
+gives the slightest idea, bears no trace of emotion, and none of the
+marks of human feeling; it is the settled expression of celestial
+beauty, and even the smile on her lip is not the fleeting smile of
+temporary joy, but the lasting expression of that heavenly feeling which
+sees in all around it the grace and loveliness which belongs to itself
+alone. It approaches nearer to that character which sometimes marks the
+countenance of female beauty; when death has stilled the passions of
+the world; but it is not the cold expression of past character which
+survives the period of mortal dissolution; it is the living expression
+of present existence, radiant with the beams of immortal life, and
+breathing the air of eternal happiness.
+
+The paintings of Raphael convey the most perfect idea of earthly beauty;
+and they denote the expression of all that is finest and most elevated
+in the character of the female mind. But there is a "human meaning in
+their eye," and they bear the marks of that anxiety and tenderness which
+belong to the relations of present existence. The Venus displays the
+same beauty, freed from the cares which existence has produced; and her
+lifeless eye-balls gaze upon the multitude which surround her, as on a
+scene fraught only with the expression of universal joy.
+
+In another view, the Apollo and the Venus appear to have been intended
+by the genius of antiquity, as expressive of the character of mind which
+distinguishes the different sexes; and in the expression of this
+character, they have exhausted all which it is possible for human
+imagination to produce upon the subject. The commanding air, and
+advanced step, of the Apollo, exhibit _Man_ in his noblest aspect, as
+triumphing over the evils of physical nature, and restraining the energy
+of instinctive passion by the high dominion of moral power: the averted
+eyes and retiring grace of the Venus, are expressive of the modesty,
+gentleness, and submission, which form the most beautiful features of
+the _female_ character.
+
+    Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed,
+    For valour He, and contemplation, formed,
+    For beauty She, and sweet attractive grace,
+    He for God only, She for God in Him.
+
+These words were said of our first parents by our greatest poet, after
+the influence of a pure religion had developed the real nature of the
+female character, and determined the place which woman was to hold in
+the scale of nature; but the idea had been expressed in a still finer
+manner two thousand years before, by the sculptors of antiquity; and
+amidst all the degradation of ancient manners, the prophetic genius of
+Grecian taste contemplated that ideal perfection in the character of the
+sexes, which was destined to form the boundary of human progress in the
+remotest ages of human improvement.
+
+The Apollo strikes a stranger with all its divine grandeur on the first
+aspect; subsequent examination can add nothing to the force of the
+impression which is then received; The Venus produces at first less
+effect, but gains upon the mind at every renewal, till it rivets the
+affections even more than the greatness of its unequalled
+rival--emblematic of the charm of female excellence, which, if it
+excites less admiration at first than the loftier features of manly
+character, is destined to acquire a deeper influence, and lay the
+foundation of more indelible affection.
+
+The Dying Gladiator is perhaps, after the two which we have mentioned,
+the finest statue which the Louvre contains. The moment chosen is finely
+adapted for that expression of ideal beauty, which may be produced even
+in a subject naturally connected with feelings of pain. It is not the
+moment of energy or struggling, when the frame is convulsed with the
+exertion it is making, or the countenance is deformed by the tumult of
+passion; it is the moment of expiring nature, when the figure is relaxed
+by the weakness of decay, and the mind is softened by the approach of
+death; the moment when the ferocity of combat is forgotten in the
+extinction of the interest which it had excited, when every unsocial
+passion is stilled by the weakness of exhausted nature, and the mind,
+in the last moments of life, is fraught with finer feelings than had
+belonged to the character of previous existence. It is a moment similar
+to that in which Tasso has so beautifully described the change in
+Clorinda's mind, after she had been mortally wounded by the hand of
+Tancred, but in which he was enabled to give her the inspiration of a
+greater faith, and the charity of a more gentle religion:--
+
+    Amico h'ai vinto: io te perdon. Perdona
+    Tu ancora, al corpo no che nulla pave
+    All'alma si: deh per lei prega; e dona
+    Battesme a me, ch'ogni mia colpa lave;
+    In queste voci languide risuona
+    Un non so che di flebile e soave
+    Ch'al cor gli scende, ed ogni sdegno ammorza,
+    Egli occhi a lagrimar gl'invoglia e sforza.
+
+The greater statues of antiquity were addressed to the worshippers in
+their temples; they were intended to awaken the devotion of all classes
+of citizens--to be felt and judged by all mankind. They were intended to
+express characters superior to common nature, and they still express
+them. They are free, therefore, from all the peculiarities of national
+taste; they are purified from all the peculiarities of local
+circumstances; they have been rescued from that inevitable degradation
+to which art is uniformly exposed, by taste being confined to a limited
+society; they have assumed, in consequence, that general character,
+which might suit the universal feelings of our nature, and that
+permanent expression which might speak to the hearts of men through
+every succeeding age. The admiration, accordingly, for those works of
+art, has been undiminished by the lapse of time; they excite the same
+feelings at the present time, as when they came fresh from the hand of
+the Grecian artist, and are regarded by all nations with the same
+veneration on the banks of the Seine, as when they sanctified the
+temples of Athens, or adorned the gardens of Rome.
+
+Even the rudest nations seem to have felt the force of this impression.
+The Hungarians and the Cossacks, as we ourselves have frequently seen,
+during the stay of the allied armies in Paris, ignorant of the name or
+the celebrity of those works of art, seemed yet to take a delight in the
+survey of the statues of antiquity; and in passing through the long line
+of marble greatness which the Louvre presents, stopt involuntarily at
+the sight of the Venus, or clustered round the foot of the pedestal of
+the Apollo;--indicating thus, in the expression of unaffected feeling,
+the force of that genuine taste for the beauty of nature, which all the
+rudeness of savage manners, and all the ferocity of war, had not been
+able to destroy. The poor Russian soldier, whose knowledge of art was
+limited to the crucifix which he had borne in his bosom from his native
+land, still felt the power of ancient beauty, and in the spirit of the
+Athenians, who erected an altar to the Unknown God, did homage in
+silence to that unknown spirit which had touched a new chord in his
+untutored heart.
+
+* * *
+
+From the impression produced on our minds by the collection in the
+Louvre, we were led to form some general conclusions concerning the
+history and object of the arts of Painting and Sculpture, which we shall
+presume to state, as what suggested themselves to us on the
+contemplation of the greatest assemblage of the works of art which has
+ever been formed; but which we give, at the same time, with the utmost
+diffidence, and merely as the result of our own feelings and
+reflections.
+
+The character of art in every country appears to have been determined by
+the _disposition of the people_ to whom it was addressed, and the
+object of its composition to have varied with the purpose it was called
+on to fulfil.--The Grecian statues were designed to excite the devotion
+of a cultivated people; to embody their conceptions of divine
+perfection; to realise the expression of that character of mind which
+they imputed to the deities whose temples they were to adorn: It was
+grace, or strength, or majesty, or the benignity of divine power, which
+they were to represent by the figures of Venus, of Hercules, of Jupiter,
+or of Apollo. Their artists accordingly were led to aim at the
+expression of _general character_; to exclude passion, or emotion, or
+suffering, from their design, and represent the figures in that state of
+repose where the permanent expression of mind ought to be displayed. It
+is perhaps in this circumstance that we are to discern the cause both of
+the peculiarity and the excellence of the Grecian statuary.
+
+The Italian painters were early required to effect a different object.
+Their pictures were destined to represent the sufferings of nature; to
+display the persecution or death of our Saviour, the anguish of the Holy
+Family, the heroism of martyrs, the resignation of devotion. In the
+infancy of the arts, accordingly, they were led to study the expression
+of passion, of suffering, and of temporary emotion; to aim at rousing
+the pity, or exciting the sympathy, of the spectators; and to endeavour
+to characterise their works by the representation of temporary passion,
+not the expression of permanent character. Those beautiful pictures in
+which a different object seems to have been followed--in which the
+expression is that of permanent emotion, not transient passion, while
+they captivate our admiration, seem to be exceptions from the general
+design, and to have been suggested by the peculiar nature of the subject
+represented, or a particular firmness of mind in the artist. In these
+causes we may perhaps discern the origin of the peculiar character of
+the Italian school.
+
+In the French school, the character and manners of the people seem to
+have carried this peculiarity to a still greater length. Their character
+led them to seek in every thing for stage effect; to admire the most
+extravagant and violent representations, and to value the efforts of
+art, not in proportion to their imitation of the expressions of nature,
+but in proportion to their resemblance to those artificial expressions
+on which their admiration was founded. The vehemence of their manner on
+the most ordinary occasions, rendered the most extravagant gestures
+requisite for the display of real passion; and their drama accordingly
+exhibits a mixture of dignity of sentiment, with violence of gesture,
+beyond measure surprising to a foreign spectator. The same disposition
+of the people has influenced the character of their historical painting;
+and it is to be remembered, that the French school of painting succeeded
+the establishment of the French drama. It is hence that they have
+generally selected the moment of theatrical effect--the moment of
+phrenzied passion, of unparalleled exertion, and that their composition
+is distinguished by so many striking contrasts, and so laboured a
+display of momentary effect.
+
+The Flemish or Dutch school of painting was neither addressed to the
+devotion nor the theatrical feelings of mankind; it was neither intended
+to awaken the sympathy of religious emotion, nor excite the admiration
+of artificial composition--it was addressed to wealthy men of vulgar
+capacities, whose taste advanced in no proportion to their riches, and
+who were capable of appreciating only the merit of minute detail, or the
+faithfulness of exact imitation. It is hence that their painting
+possesses excellencies and defects of so peculiar a description; that
+they have carried the minuteness of finishing to so unparalleled a
+degree of perfection; that the brilliancy of their lights has thrown a
+splendour over the vulgarity of their subjects; and that they are in
+general so utterly destitute of all the refinement and sentiment which
+sprung from the devotional feelings of the Italian people.
+
+The subjects which the Dutch painters chose were subjects of low humour,
+calculated to amuse a rich and uncultivated people; the subjects of the
+French school were heroic adventures, suited to the theatrical taste of
+a more elevated society; the subjects of the Italian school were the
+incidents of Sacred History, adapted to the devotional feelings of a
+religious people. In all, the subjects to which painting was applied,
+and the character of the art itself, was determined by the peculiar
+circumstances or disposition of the people to whom it was addressed: so
+that, in these instances, there has really happened what Mr Addison
+stated should ever be the case, that "the taste should not conform to
+the art, but the art to the taste."
+
+* * *
+
+We soon perceived that the statues rivetted our admiration more than any
+of the other works of art which the Louvre presents; and that amongst
+the pictures, those made the deepest impression which approached nearest
+to the character by which the Grecian statuary is distinguished. In the
+prosecution of this train of thought, we were led to the following
+conclusions, relative to the separate objects to which painting and
+statuary should be applied.
+
+1. That the object of Statuary should ever be the same to which it was
+always confined by the ancients, viz. the representation of CHARACTER.
+The very materials on which the sculptor has to operate, render his art
+unfit for the expression either of emotion or passion; and the figure,
+when finished, can bear none of the marks by which they are to be
+distinguished. It is a figure of cold, and pale, and lifeless marble,
+without the varied colour which emotion produces, or the living eye
+which passion animates. The eye is the feature which is expressive of
+present emotion; it is it which varies with all the changes which the
+mind undergoes; it is it which marks the difference between joy and
+sorrow, between love and hatred, between pleasure and pain, between life
+and death. But the eye, with all the endless expressions which it bears,
+is lost to the sculptor; its gaze must ever be cold and lifeless to him;
+its fire is quenched in the stillness of the tomb. A statue, therefore,
+can never be expressive of living emotion; it can never express those
+transient feelings which mark the play of the living mind. It is an
+abstraction of character which has no relation to common existence; a
+shadow in which all the permanent features of the mind are expressed,
+but none of the temporary passions of the mind are shewn; like the
+figures of snow, which the magic of Okba formed to charm the solitude of
+Leila's dwelling, it bears the character of the human form, but melts at
+the warmth of human feeling. The power of the sculptor is limited to the
+delineation of those signs alone by which the permanent qualities of
+mind are displayed: his art, therefore, should be confined to the
+representation of that permanent character of which they are expressive.
+
+2. While such is the object to which statuary would appear to be
+destined, Painting embraces a wider range, and is capable of more varied
+expression: It is expressive of the living form; it paints the eye and
+opens the view of the present mind; it imitates all the fleeting changes
+which constitute the signs of present emotion. It is not, therefore, an
+abstraction of character which the painter is to represent; not an ideal
+form, expressive only of the qualities of permanent character; but an
+actual being, alive to the impressions of present existence, and bound
+by the ties of present affection. It is in the delineation of these
+affections, therefore, that the powers of the painter principally
+consists; in the representation, not of simple character, but of
+character influenced or subdued by emotion. It is the representation of
+the joy of youth, or the repose of age; of the sorrow of innocence, or
+the penitence of guilt; of the tenderness of parental affection, or the
+gratitude of filial love. In these, and a thousand other instances, the
+expression of the emotion constitutes the beauty of the picture; it is
+that which gives the tone to the character which it is to bear; it is
+that which strikes the chord which vibrates in every human heart. The
+object of the painter, therefore, is the expression of EMOTION, of that
+emotion which is blended with the character of the mind which feels, and
+gives to that character the interest which belongs to the events of
+present existence.
+
+3. The object of the painter, being the representation of emotion in all
+the varied situations which life produces, it follows, that every thing
+in his picture should be in unison with the predominant expression which
+he wishes it to bear; that the composition should be as simple as is
+consistent with the developement of this expression; and the colouring
+such as accords with the character by which this emotion is
+distinguished. It is here that the genius of the artist is principally
+to be displayed, in the selection of such figures as suit the general
+impression which the whole is to produce; and the choice of such a tone
+of colouring, as harmonises with the feelings of mind which it is his
+object to awaken. The distraction of varied colours--the confusion of
+different figures--the contrast of opposite expressions, completely
+destroy the effect of the composition; they fix the mind to the
+observation of what is particular in the separate parts, and prevent
+that uniform and general emotion which arises from the perception of one
+uniform expression in all the parts of which it is composed. It is in
+this very perception, however, that the source of the beauty is to be
+found; it is in the undefined feeling to which it gives rise, that the
+delight of the emotion of taste consists. Like the harmony of sounds in
+musical composition, it produces an effect of which we are unable to
+give an account; but which we feel to be instantly destroyed by the
+jarring sound of a different note, or the discordant effect of a foreign
+expression. It is in the neglect of this great principle that the defect
+of many of the first pictures of modern times is to be found--in the
+confused multitude of unnecessary figures--in the contradictory
+expression of separate parts--in the distracting brilliancy of gorgeous
+colours; in the laboured display, in short, of the power of the artist,
+and the utter dereliction of the object of the art. The great secret, on
+the other hand, of the beauty of the most exquisite specimens of modern
+art, lies in the simplicity of expression which they bear, in their
+production of one uniform emotion, from all the parts of one harmonious
+composition. For the production of this unity of emotion, the surest
+means will be found to consist in the selection of _as few figures_ as
+is consistent with the developement of the characteristic expression of
+the composition; and it is, perhaps, to this circumstance, that we are
+to impute the unequalled charm which belongs to the pictures of single
+figures, or small groups, in which a single expression is alone
+attempted.
+
+4. The last principle of the art appeared to be, that both painting and
+sculpture are wholly unfit for the representation of PASSION, as
+expressed by motion; and that, to attempt to delineate it, necessarily
+injures the effect of the composition. Neither, it is clear, can express
+actual motion: they should not attempt, therefore, to represent those
+passions of the mind which motion alone is adequate to express. The
+attempt to delineate violent passion, accordingly, uniformly produces a
+painful or a ridiculous effect; it does not even convey any conception
+of the passion itself, because its character is not known by the
+expression of any single moment, but by the rapid changes which result
+from the perturbed state into which the mind is thrown. It is hence that
+passion seems so ridiculous when seen at a distance, or without the
+cause of its existence being known, and it is hence, that if a human
+figure were petrified in any of the stages of passion, it would have so
+painful or insane an appearance.--As painting, therefore, cannot exhibit
+the rapid changes in which the real expression of passion consists, it
+should not attempt its delineation at all. Its real object is, the
+expression of _emotion_, of that more settled state of the human mind
+when the changes of passion are gone--when the countenance is moulded
+into the expression of permanent feeling, and the existence of this
+feeling is marked by the permanent expression which the features have
+assumed.
+
+The greatest artists of ancient and modern times, accordingly, have
+selected, even in the representation of violent exertion, that moment of
+temporary repose, when a permanent expression is given to the figure.
+Even the Laocoon is not in the state of actual exertion: it is
+represented in that moment when the last effort has been made; when
+straining against an invincible power has given to the figure the aspect
+at last of momentary repose; and when despair has placed its settled
+mark on the expression of the countenance. The Fighting Gladiator is not
+represented in a state of actual activity, but in that moment when he is
+preparing his mind for the future and final contest, and when, in this
+deep concentration of his powers, the pause which the genius of the
+artist has given, expresses more distinctly to the eye of the spectator
+the determined character of the combatant, than all that the struggle or
+agony of the combat itself could afterwards display.
+
+The Grecian statues which were assembled in the Louvre may be considered
+as the most perfect works of human genius; and after surveying the
+different schools of painting which it contains, we could not but feel
+those higher conceptions of human form, and of human nature, which the
+taste of ancient statuary had formed. It is not in the moment of action
+that it has represented man, but in the moment after action, when the
+tumult of passion has ceased, and all that is great or dignified in
+moral nature remains; and the greatest works of modern art are those
+which approach nearest to the same principle. It is not Hercules in the
+moment of earthly combat, when every muscle was swollen with the
+strength he was exerting, that they represent; but Hercules in the
+moment of transformation into a nobler being, when the exertion of
+mortality has passed, and his powers seem to repose in the tranquillity
+of Heaven: not Apollo, when straining his youthful strength in drawing
+the bow; but Apollo, when the weapon was discharged, watching, with
+unexulting eye, its resistless course, and serene in the enjoyment of
+immortal power: not St Michael when struggling with the Demon, and
+marring the beauty of angelic form by the violence of earthly passion,
+but St Michael in the moment of unruffled triumph, restraining the might
+of Almighty power, and radiant with the beams of eternal mercy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+We do not by any means consider ourselves as qualified to enter fully
+into the interesting subject of the national character of the French;
+but we shall venture to state, in this place, what appeared to us its
+most striking peculiarities, particularly as it is observed at Paris.
+Our stay in the capital was too short, and our opportunities of
+observation too limited, to entitle us to speak with confidence; but it
+is to be remembered on the other hand, that there is a surprising
+uniformity of character among the French, which facilitates observation.
+The habit of constant intercourse in society, which constitutes their
+greatest pleasure, and has made them, in their own opinion, the most
+polished nation on earth, appears not merely to have assimilated their
+manners to one another, in the manner so finely illustrated by the
+celebrated simile of Sterne[2], but to have engendered a kind of
+conventional standard character, by which all those we observe are more
+or less modelled.
+
+The most striking and formidable part of their general character is, the
+_contempt for religion_ which is so frequently and openly expressed. In
+all countries there are men of a selfish and abstracted turn of mind,
+who are more disposed than others to religious argument and doubt; and
+in all, there are a greater number, whose worldly passions lead them to
+the neglect, or hurry them on to the violation of religious precepts;
+but a great nation, among whom a cool selfish regard to personal comfort
+and enjoyment has been deliberately substituted for religious feeling,
+and where it is generally esteemed reasonable and wise to oppose and
+wrestle down, by metaphysical arguments, the natural and becoming
+sentiments of piety, as they arise in the human breast, is hitherto, and
+it is to be hoped will long continue, an anomaly in the history of
+mankind.
+
+We heard it estimated at Paris, that 40,000 out of 600,000 inhabitants
+of that town attend church; one half of which number, they say, are
+actuated in so doing by real sentiments of devotion; but to judge from
+the very small numbers whom we have ever seen attending the regular
+service in any of the churches, we should think this proportion greatly
+overrated. Of those whom we have seen there, at least two-thirds have
+been women above fifty, or girls under fifteen years of age. In all
+Catholic countries, Sunday is a day of amusement and festivity, as well
+as of religion--but it is generally, also, one of relaxation from
+business: in Paris, we could see very little signs of the latter in the
+forenoons, but the amusements and dissipation of the capital were
+visibly increased in the evenings; and the Parisians have some reason
+for their remark, that their day of rest is changed to Monday, when the
+effect of their last night's dissipation wholly incapacitates them for
+exertion.
+
+It is clear, that it is quite absurd to attempt altering the manner of
+spending the Sundays at Paris, while the sentiments of the people, in
+regard to religion, continue such as at present; but it must be
+admitted, on the other hand, that their habits, as to the way of
+spending Sundays, re-act powerfully on their sentiments; and that the
+minds of the lower orders, in particular, are much debased by the want
+of what have been emphatically called "these precious breathing times
+for the labouring part of the community."
+
+Frenchmen of the higher ranks seem, at present, generally disposed to
+wave the subject of religion; but those of the middling ranks, by whom
+the business of the country is mainly carried on, do not scruple to
+express their contempt of it;--they applaud with enthusiasm all
+irreligious sentiments in the theatres, and seldom mention priests, of
+any persuasion, without the epithet of _sacrès_.
+
+We were informed in Holland, that the Frenchmen who were sent to that
+country in official capacities, military or civil, manifested on all
+occasions the utmost contempt for religion. A French General, quartered
+in the house of a respectable gentleman in Amsterdam, inquired the
+reason, the first Sunday that he was there, of the family going out in
+their best clothes; and being told they were going to church, he
+expressed his surprise, saying,--"Now that you are a part of the great
+nation, it is time for you to have done with that nonsense."
+
+To an Englishman, who has been accustomed to see the ordinances of
+religion regularly observed by the great majority of his countrymen, the
+neglect of them by the French people appears very singular, and even
+unnatural. When we afterwards visited Flanders, and observed the
+manifest respect of the people for religion--when when saw the
+numberless handsome churches in the villages, and the frequent religious
+processions in the streets of the towns--when we entered the Great
+Cathedral at Antwerp, and found vast numbers of people, of both sexes,
+and all ranks and ages, on their knees, engaged, with the appearance of
+sincere devotion, in the solemn and striking service of vespers, we
+could not help saying among ourselves, that this people, for better
+reasons than mere political convenience, deserved to be separated from
+the French.
+
+Yet, we do not mean to say that the French are wholly, or even generally
+devoid of religious feeling; on the contrary, we believe it may often be
+seen to break out in a very striking manner, even in the conversation of
+those who are accustomed to think it wise to express contempt for it. A
+Frenchman, full of enthusiasm about the glory of his country, who was
+talking to us of the deeds and sufferings of the French army in Russia,
+concluded his description of the latter with these emphatic words: "Ah!
+Monsieur, Ce n'est pas les Russes; C'est _le bon Dieu_ qui a fait cela."
+
+* * *
+
+In point of _intellectual ability_, the French are certainly inferior to
+no other nation. They have not, perhaps, so frequently as others, that
+cool, sound judgment in matters of speculation, which can fit them for
+unravelling with success the perplexities of metaphysics; but their
+unparalleled success in mathematical pursuits is the best possible proof
+of the accuracy and quickness of their reasoning powers, when confined
+within due bounds. We do not refer to the astonishing efforts of such
+men as d'Alembert or La Place, but to the general diffusion of
+mathematical knowledge among all who receive a scientific education. It
+is not, perhaps, going too far to say, that few professors in Britain
+have an equally accurate and extensive knowledge of the integral and
+differential calculus, with some lads of 17 or 18, who have completed
+their education at the Ecole Polytechnique. Unless a man makes
+discoveries of his own in mathematics, he is little thought of as a
+mathematician by the men of science at Paris, even although he may be
+intimately versed in all the branches of that science as it stands.
+
+Under the Imperial Government, it was not considered safe to cultivate
+any sciences which relate to politics or morals; but the advancement of
+the physical and mathematical sciences in France during that time,
+sufficiently indicates that there has been no want of talents or
+industry.
+
+It may be remarked as a striking characteristic of the French scientific
+works, that they are almost always well arranged, and the meaning of the
+author fully and unequivocally expressed. A Frenchman does not always
+take a comprehensive view of his subject, but he seldom fails to take a
+clear view of it. The same turn of mind may be observed in the
+conversation of Frenchmen; even when their information is defective,
+they will very generally arrest attention by the apparent order and
+perspicuity of their thoughts; and they never seem to know what it is to
+be at a loss for words.
+
+Considering the great ingenuity and ability of the French, it seems not
+a little surprising that they should be so much behind our countrymen in
+useful and profitable arts, and that Englishmen should be so much struck
+with the apparent poverty of the greater part of France. This is in a
+great measure owing, no doubt, to the policy of the late French
+Government, which has directed all the energies of the nation towards
+military affairs; and to the abuses of the former government: but we
+think it must be ascribed in part to the character of the people. There
+is not the same co-operation of different individuals to one end, of
+private advantage and public usefulness; the same division of labour,
+intellectual as well as operative; the same hearty confidence between
+man and man, in France as in England. Men of talents in France are, in
+general, too much tainted with the national vanity, and too much
+occupied with their own fame, to join heartily in promoting the public
+interest. Individual intelligence, activity, and ingenuity, go but
+little way in making a nation wealthy and prosperous, if they are made
+to minister only to the individual pleasures and _glory_ of their
+possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+The _patriotism_ of the French is certainly a very strong feeling, but
+it appears to be much tainted with the same vanity and love of shew that
+we have just remarked. There can be no doubt, that during the time of
+Bonaparte's successes, he commanded, in a degree that no other Sovereign
+ever did, the admiration and respect of the great body of the people;
+and it is equally certain, that he did this without interesting himself
+at all in their happiness. His hold of them was by their national vanity
+alone. They assent to all that can be said of the miseries which he
+brought upon France; but add, "Mais il a battu tout le monde; il a fait
+des choses superbes a Paris; il a flattè notre orgeuil national. Ah!
+C'est un grand homme. Notre pays n'a jamais etè si grand ni si puissant
+que sous lui." The condition of the inhabitants of distant provinces was
+nowise improved by his public buildings and decorations at their
+capital; but every Frenchman considers a compliment to Paris, to the
+Louvre, to the Palais Royal, or the Opera, as a personal compliment to
+himself.
+
+At this moment, it is certainly a very general wish in France, to have
+a sovereign, who, as they express it, has grown out of the revolution;
+but when we enquire into their reason for this, it will often be found,
+we believe, to resolve itself into their national vanity. It is not that
+they think the Bourbons will break their word, or that the present
+Constitution will be altered without their consent; but after five and
+twenty years of confusion and bloodshed, they cannot bear the thoughts
+of leaving off where they began; and they think, that taking back their
+old dynasty without alteration, is practically acknowledging that they
+have been in the wrong all the time of their absence. We have often
+remarked (but we presume the remark is applicable to all despotic
+countries) that the French political conversation, such as is heard at
+caffés and tables d'hôte, relates more to men, and less to measures, and
+appears to be more guided by personal attachments or antipathies, than
+that to which we are accustomed in England.
+
+The character that appears to be most wanted in France, is that of
+disinterested public-spirited individuals, of high honour and integrity,
+and of large possessions and influence, who do not interfere in public
+affairs from views of ambition, but from a sense of duty--who have no
+wish to dazzle the eyes of the multitude, and do not seek for a more
+extensive influence than that to which their observation and experience
+entitle them. While this character continues so much more frequent in
+our own country than among the French, it is perhaps in military affairs
+only that we need entertain any fear of their superiority. Englishmen of
+power and influence, generally speaking, have really at heart the _good_
+of their country, whereas Frenchmen, in similar situations, are chiefly
+interested in the _glory_ of theirs.
+
+It must also be observed, that public affairs occupy much less of the
+attention, and interfere much less with the happiness, of the majority
+of the French than of the English. There is less anxiety about public
+measures, and less gratitude for public services. We were often
+surprised at the indifference of the citizens of Paris with regard to
+their Marshals, whom they seldom knew by name, and did not seem to care
+for knowing. The peroration of an old lady, who had delivered a long
+speech to a friend of ours, then a prisoner at Verdun, lamenting the
+reverses of the French arms, and the miseries of France, was
+characteristic of the nation: "Mais, ce m'est egal. Je suis toujours ici."
+
+It is quite unnecessary for us to give proofs of the laxity of _moral
+principle_ which prevails so generally among the French. The world has
+not now to learn, that notwithstanding their high professions, they have
+but little regard either for truth or morality. According to Mr Scott,
+"they have, in a great measure, detached words from ideas and feelings;
+they can, therefore, afford to be unusually profuse of the better sort
+of the first; and they experience as much internal satisfaction and
+pride when they profess a virtue, as if they had practised one." Perhaps
+it would be more correct to say, that they have detached ideas and
+feelings from their corresponding actions. Their feelings have always
+been too violent for the moment, and too short in their duration, to
+influence their conduct steadily and permanently; but at present, they
+seem much disposed to think, that it is quite enough to have the
+feelings, and that there is no occasion for their conduct being
+influenced by them at all.
+
+They appear to have a strong natural sense of the beauty and excellence
+of virtue; but they are accustomed to regard it merely as a sense. It
+does not regulate their conduct to others, but adds to their own selfish
+enjoyments. They speak of virtue almost uniformly, not as an object of
+rational approbation and imitation, and still less as a rule of moral
+obligation, but as a matter of _feeling and taste_. A French officer,
+who describes to you, in the liveliest manner, and with all the
+appearance of unfeigned sympathy, the miseries and devastations
+occasioned by his countrymen among the unoffending inhabitants of
+foreign states, proceeds, in the same breath, to declaim with
+enthusiastic admiration on the untarnished honour of the French arms,
+and the great mind of the Emperor. A Parisian tradesman, who goes to the
+theatre that he may see the representation of integrity of conduct,
+conjugal affection, and domestic happiness, and applauds with enthusiasm
+when he sees it, shews no symptoms of shame when detected in a barefaced
+attempt to cheat his customers; spends his spare money in the Palais
+Royal, and sells his wife or daughter to the highest bidder.
+
+"Among the French," says the intelligent and judicious author of the
+Caractere des Armées Europeennes, "the seat of the passions is in the
+head--they feel rather from the fancy than the heart--their feelings are
+nothing more than thoughts."
+
+Another striking feature of the French character, connected with the
+preceding, is the openness, and even eagerness, with which they
+communicate all their thoughts and feelings to each other, and even to
+strangers. All Frenchmen seem anxious to make the most in conversation,
+not only of whatever intellectual ability they possess, but of whatever
+moral feelings they experience on any occasion;--they do not seem to
+understand why a man should ever be either ashamed or unwilling to
+disclose any thing that passes in his mind;--they often suspect their
+neighbours of expressing sentiments which they do not feel, but have no
+idea of giving them credit for feelings which they do not express.
+
+The French have many _good qualities_; they are very generally obliging
+to strangers, they are sober and good-tempered, and little disposed, in
+the ordinary concerns of life, to quarrel among themselves, and they
+have an amiable cheerfulness of disposition, which supports them in
+difficulties and adversity, better than the resolutions of philosophy.
+But it is clear that they have very little esteem for the most estimable
+of all characters, that of firm and enduring virtue; and in fact, it is
+not going too far to say, that a certain _propriety of external
+demeanour_ has completely taken the place of correctness of moral
+conduct among them. They speak almost uniformly with much abhorrence of
+drunkenness, and of all violations of the established forms of society;
+and such improprieties are very seldom to be seen among them. Many
+Frenchmen, as was already observed, are rough and even ferocious in
+their manners; and the language and behaviour of most of them,
+particularly in the presence of women, appears to us very frequently
+indelicate and rude; yet there are limits to this freedom of manner
+which they never allow themselves to pass. Go where you will in Paris,
+you will very seldom see any disgusting instances of intoxication, or
+any material difference of manner, between those who are avowedly
+unprincipled and abandoned, and the most respectable part of the
+community. In the caffés, which correspond not only to the
+coffee-houses, but to the taverns of London, you will see modest women,
+at all hours of the day, often alone, sitting in the midst of the men.
+In the Palais Royal, at no hour of the night do you witness scenes of
+gross indecency or riot.
+
+To an Englishman, it often serves as an excuse for vicious indulgences,
+that he is led off his feet by temptation. To a Frenchman, this excuse
+is the only crime; he stands in no need of an apology for vice; but it
+is necessary "qu'il se menage:" he is taught "qu'un pechè cachè est la
+moitie pardonnè;" he must on no account allow, that any temptation can
+make him lose his recollection or presence of mind.
+
+We ought perhaps to admit likewise, that some of the vices common among
+the French are not merely less foul and disgusting in appearance, but
+less odious in their own nature, than those of our countrymen. We do not
+say this in palliation of their conduct. It is rather to be considered
+as a benevolent provision of nature, that in proportion as vice is more
+generally diffused, its influence on individual character is less fatal.
+This remark applies particularly to the case of women. A woman in
+England, who loses one virtue, knows that she outrages the opinion of
+mankind; she disobeys the precepts of her religion, and estranges
+herself from the examples which she has been taught to revere; she
+becomes an outcast of society; and if she has not already lost, must
+soon lose all the best qualities of the female character. But a French
+woman, in giving way to unlawful love, knows that she does no more than
+her mother did before her; if she is of the lower ranks, she is not
+necessarily debarred from honest occupation; if of the higher, she loses
+little or nothing in the estimation of society; if she has been taught
+to revere any religion, it is the Catholic, and she may look to
+absolution. Her conduct, therefore, neither implies her having lost, nor
+necessarily occasions her losing, any virtue but one; and during the
+course of the revolution, we have understood there have been many
+examples, proving, in the most trying circumstances, that not even the
+worst corruptions of Paris had destroyed some of the finest virtues
+which can adorn the sex. "Elles ont toujours des bons coeurs," is a
+common expression in France, in speaking even of the lowest and most
+degraded of the sex. In Paris, it is certainly much more difficult than
+in London to find examples in any rank of the unsullied purity of the
+female character; but neither is it commonly seen so utterly perverted
+and degraded; one has not occasion to witness so frequently the painful
+spectacle of youth and beauty brought by one rash step to shame and
+misery; and to lament, that the fairest gifts of heaven should become
+the bitterest of curses to so many of their possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+Having mentioned the French women, we think we may remark, without
+hazarding our character as impartial observers, that most of the faults
+which are so well known to prevail among them, may be easily traced to
+the manner in which they are treated by the other sex. It is a very
+common boast in France, that there is no other country in which women
+are treated with so much respect; and you can hardly gratify any
+Frenchman so much, as by calling France "le paradis des femmes." Yet,
+from all that we could observe ourselves, or learn from others, there
+appears to be no one of the boasts of Frenchmen which is in reality less
+reasonable. They exclude women from society almost entirely in their
+early years; they seldom allow them any vote in the choice of their
+husbands: After they have brought them into society, they seem to think
+that they confer a high favour on them, by giving them a great deal of
+their company, and paying them a great deal of attention, and
+encouraging them to separate themselves from the society of their
+husbands. In return for these obligations, they often oblige them to
+listen to conversation, which, heard as it is, from those for whom they
+have most respect, cannot fail to corrupt their minds as well as their
+manners; and they take care to let them see that they value them for the
+qualities which render them agreeable companions for the moment; not for
+the usefulness of their lives, for the purity of their conduct, or the
+constancy of their affections. Surely the respect with which all women
+who conduct themselves with propriety are treated in England, merely on
+account of their sex; the delicacy and reserve with which in their
+presence conversation is uniformly conducted by all who call themselves
+gentlemen, are more honourable tokens of regard for the virtues of the
+female character, than the unmeaning ceremonies and officious attentions
+of the French.
+
+The female inhabitants of our own country are distinguished of those of
+France, and probably of every other country, by a certain native,
+self-respecting, dignity of appearance and manner, which claims respect
+and attention as a right, rather than solicits them as a boon; and gives
+you to understand, that the man who does not give them is disgraced,
+rather than the woman who does not receive them. We believe it to be
+owing to the influence of the causes we have noticed, that this manner,
+so often ridiculed by the French, under the name of "hauteur" and
+"fiertè Anglaise," is hardly ever to be seen among women of any rank in
+France. And to a similar influence of the tastes and sentiments of our
+own sex, it is easy to refer the more serious faults of the female
+character in that country.
+
+On the other hand, the better parts of the character of the French women
+are all their own. It is not certainly from the men that they have
+learnt those truly feminine qualities, that interesting humility and
+gentleness of manner, that pleasing gaiety of temper, and native
+kindness of disposition, to which it is very difficult, even for the
+proverbial coldness of northern critics, to apply terms of ridicule or
+reproach.
+
+* * *
+
+It is not easy for a stranger, in forming his opinion of the moral
+character of a people, to make allowance for the modification which
+moral sentiments undergo, in consequence of long habits, and
+adventitious circumstances. There is no quality which strikes a stranger
+more forcibly, in the character of the French of the middling and lower
+ranks, than their seeming dishonesty, particularly their uniformly
+endeavouring to extract more money for their goods or their services
+than they know to be their value. But we think too much stress has been
+laid on this part of their character by some travellers. It is regarded
+in France as a sort of professional accomplishment, without which it is
+in vain to attempt exercising a trade; and it is hardly thought to
+indicate immorality of any kind, more than the obviously false
+expressions which are used in the ordinary intercourse of society in
+England, or the license of denying oneself to visitors. That it should
+be so regarded is no doubt a proof of _national_ inferiority, and
+perhaps immorality; but while the general sentiments of the nation
+continue as at present, an instance of this kind cannot be considered as
+a proof of _individual_ baseness. An Englishman is apt to pronounce
+every man a scoundrel, who, in making a bargain, attempts to take him
+in; but he will often find, on a closer and more impartial examination,
+that the judgment formed by this circumstance alone in France, is quite
+erroneous. One of our party entered a small shop in the Palais Royal to
+buy a travelling cap. The woman who attended in it, with perfect
+effrontery, asked 16 francs for one which was certainly not worth more
+than six, and which she at last gave him for seven. Being in a hurry at
+the time, he inadvertently left on the counter a purse containing 20
+gold pieces of 20 francs each. He did not miss it for more than an hour:
+on returning to the shop, he found the old lady gone, and concluded at
+first, that she had absented herself to avoid interrogation; but to his
+surprise, he was accosted immediately on entering, by a pretty young
+girl, who had come in her place, with the sweetest smile
+imaginable,--"Monsieur, a oubliè sa bourse--que nous sommes heureuses de
+la lui rendre."
+
+* * *
+
+It is certainly incorrect to say, that the _taste_ of the French is
+decidedly superior to that of other nations. Their poetry, on the whole,
+will not bear a comparison with the English; their modern music is not
+nearly so beautiful as their ancient songs, which have now descended to
+the lower ranks; their painting is in a peculiar and not pleasing style;
+their taste in gardening is antiquated and artificial; their
+architecture is only fine where it is modelled on the ancient; their
+theatrical tastes, if they are more correct than ours, are also more
+limited. We have already taken occasion more than once to reprobate the
+general taste of the French, as being partial to art, and brilliant
+execution, rather than to simplicity and beautiful design.
+
+But what distinguishes the French from almost every other nation, is the
+_general diffusion_ of the taste for the fine arts, and for elegant
+amusements, among all ranks of the people. Almost all Frenchmen take not
+only a pride, but an interest, in the public buildings of Paris, and in
+the collections of paintings and statues. There is a very general liking
+for poetry and works of imagination among the middling and lower ranks;
+they go to the theatres, not merely for relaxation and amusement, but
+with a serious intention of cultivating their taste, and displaying
+their critical powers. Many of them are so much in the habit of
+attending the theatres when favourite plays are acted, that they know
+almost every word of the principal scenes by heart. All their favourite
+amusements are in some measure of a refined kind. It is not in drinking
+clubs, or in sensual gratifications alone, that men of these ranks seek
+for relaxation, as its too often the case with us; but it is in the
+society of women, in conversation, in music and dancing, in theatres and
+operas, and caffés and promenades, in seeing and being seen; in short,
+in scenes resembling, as nearly as possible, those in which the higher
+ranks of all nations spend their leisure hours.
+
+While the useful arts are comparatively little advanced, those which
+relate to ornaments alone are very generally superior to ours; and the
+persons who profess these arts speak of them with a degree of fervour
+that often seems ludicrous. "Monsieur," says a peruquier in the Palais
+Royal, with the look of a man who lets you into a profound secret in
+science, "Notre art est un art imitatif; en effèt, c'est un des beaux
+arts;" then taking up a London-made wig, and twirling it round on his
+finger, with a look of ineffable contempt, "Celui ci n'est pas la belle
+nature; mais voici la mienne,--c'est la nature personifiée!"
+
+One of the best proofs of the tastes of the lower ranks being, at least
+in part, cultivated and refined, is to be found in the songs which are
+common among the peasantry and soldiers. There are a great number of
+these, and some of them, in point of beauty of sentiment, and elegance
+of expression, might challenge a comparison even with the admired
+productions of our own land of song. The following is part of a song
+which was written in April 1814, and set to the beautiful air of Charles
+VII. It was popular among the description of persons to whom it relates;
+and the young man from whom we got it had himself returned home, after
+serving as a private in the young guard.
+
+
+LE RETOUR DE L'AMANT FRANCAIS.
+
+    De bon coeur je pose les armes;
+    Adieu le tumulte des camps,
+    L'amitiè m'offre d'autres charmes,
+    Au sein de mes joyeux parents;
+    Le Dieu des Amants me rapelle,
+    C'est pour m'enroler à son tour;
+    Et je vais aupres de ma belle,
+    Servir sous les lois de l'amour.
+
+    Aux noms d'honneur et de patrie,
+    On m'a vu braver le trepas;
+    Aujourd'hui pour charmer ma vie
+    La paix fait cesser les combats.
+    Le Dieu des Amants, &c.
+
+After all that we had heard, and all that is known over the whole world,
+of the unbridled licentiousness and savage ferocity of the French
+soldiers, we were not a little surprised to find, that this and other
+songs written in good taste, and expressing sentiments of a kind of
+chivalrous elevation and refinement, were popular in their ranks.
+
+* * *
+
+The last peculiarity in the French character which we shall notice, is
+perhaps the most fundamental of the whole; it is their _love of mixed
+society_; of the society of those for whom they have no regard, but whom
+they meet on the footing of common acquaintances. This is the favourite
+enjoyment of almost every Frenchman; to shine in such society, is the
+main object of his ambition; his whole life is regulated so as to
+gratify this desire. He is indifferent about comforts at home--he
+dislikes domestic society--he hates the retirement of the country; but
+he loves, and is taught to love, to figure in a large circle of
+acquaintance, for whom he has not the least heartfelt friendship, with
+whom he is on no more intimate terms than with perfect strangers, after
+the first half hour. If he has acquired a reputation in science, arts,
+or arms, so much the better; his _glory_ will be of much service to him;
+if not, he must make it up by his conversation.
+
+In consequence of the predilection of the French for social intercourse
+of this kind, it is, that knowledge of such kinds, and to such an
+extent, as can be easily introduced into conversation, is very general;
+that the opportunities of such intercourse are carefully multiplied;
+that all arts which can add to the attractions of such scenes are
+assiduously improved; that liveliness of disposition is prized beyond
+all other qualities, while those eccentricities of manner, which seem to
+form a component part of what we call humorous characters, are excluded;
+that even childish amusements are preferred to solitary occupations;
+that taste is cultivated more than morality, wit esteemed more than
+wisdom, and vanity encouraged more than merit.
+
+It is easy to trace the pernicious effects of a taste for society of
+this kind, on individual character, when it is encouraged to such a
+degree as to become a serious occupation, instead of a relaxation to the
+mind. When the main object of a man's life is distinction among his
+acquaintances, from his wit--his liveliness--his elegance of taste--his
+powers of conversation--or even from the fame he may have earned by his
+talents; he becomes careless about the love of those with whom he is on
+more intimate terms, and who do not value him exclusively, or even
+chiefly, for such qualities. His domestic affections are weakened; he
+lives for himself and enjoys the present moment without either
+reflection or foresight; with the outward appearance of an open friendly
+disposition, he becomes, in reality, selfish and interested; that he may
+secure general sympathy from indifferent spectators, he is under the
+necessity of repressing all strong emotions, and expressions of ardent
+feeling, and of confining himself to a worldly and common-place
+morality; he learns to value his moral feelings, as well as his
+intellectual powers, chiefly for the sake of the display which he can
+make of them in society; and to reprobate vice, rather on account of its
+outward deformity, than of its intrinsic guilt; gradually he becomes
+impatient of restraints on the pleasure which he derives from social
+intercourse; and the religious and moral principles of his nature are
+sacrificed to the visionary idol to which his love of pleasure and his
+love of _glory_ have devoted him.
+
+Such appears to be the state of the minds of most Parisians. They have
+been so much accustomed to pride themselves on the outward appearance of
+their actions, that they have become regardless of their intrinsic
+merits; they have lived so long for _effect_, that they have forgotten
+that there is any other principle by which their lives can be regulated.
+
+Of the devotion of the French to the sort of life to which we refer, the
+best possible proof is, their fondness for a town life; the small number
+of chateaux in the country that are inhabited--and the still more
+remarkable scarcity of villas in the neighbourhood of Paris, to which
+men of business may retire. There are a few houses of this description
+about Belleville and near Malmaison; but in general, you pass from the
+noisy and dirty Fauxbourgs at once into the solitude of the country; and
+it is quite obvious, that you have left behind you all the scenes in
+which the Parisians find enjoyment. The contrast in the neighbourhood of
+London, is most striking. It is easy to laugh at the dulness and
+vulgarity of a London citizen, who divides his time between his
+counting-house and his villa, or at the coarseness and rusticity of an
+English country squire; but there is no description of men to whom the
+national character of our country is more deeply indebted.
+
+It seems no difficult matter to ascribe most of the differences which we
+observe between the English and French character to the differences in
+the habits of the people, occasioned by form of government and various
+assignable causes: and the French character, in particular, has very
+much the appearance of being moulded by the artificial form of society
+which prevails among the people. Yet, it is not easy to reconcile such
+explanations with the instances we can often observe, of difference of
+national character manifested under circumstances, or at an age, when
+the causes assigned can hardly have operated. The peculiarities which
+appear to us most artificial in the Parisian character and manners, may
+often be seen in full perfection in very young children. Every little
+French girl, almost from the time when she begins to speak, seems to
+place her chief delight in attracting the regard of the other sex,
+rather than in playing with her female companions. "In England," says
+Chateaubriand, "girls are sent to school in their earliest years: you
+sometimes see groups of these little ones, dressed in white mantles,
+with straw hats tied under the chin with a ribband, and a basket on the
+arm, containing fruit and a book--all with downcast eyes, blushing when
+looked at. When I have seen," he continues, "our French female children,
+dressed in their antiquated fashion, lifting up the trains of their
+gowns, looking at every one they meet with effrontery, singing love-sick
+airs, and taking lessons in declamation; I have thought with regret, of
+the simplicity and modesty of the little English girls."
+
+It is the opinion of some naturalists, that the acquired habits, as well
+as the natural instincts of animals, are transmitted to their progeny;
+and in comparing the causes commonly assigned, and plausibly supported,
+for the peculiarities of national character, with the very early age at
+which these peculiarities shew themselves, one is almost tempted to
+believe, that something of the same kind may take place in the human
+species.
+
+* * *
+
+In what has now been said, no reference has been made to the influence
+of the revolution on the parts of the French character on which we have
+touched. On this point we have of course, the means of judging with
+precision; but most of the peculiarities which appeared to us most
+striking certainly existed before the revolution, and we should be
+disposed to doubt whether the leading features are materially altered.
+The influence of the writings of the French philosophers on the
+religious and moral principles of their countrymen, has certainly been
+very great, and has been probably strengthened, rather than weakened, by
+the events of the last twenty-five years.
+
+The general diffusion of a military spirit; the unprincipled manner in
+which war has been conducted, and the encouragement which has been given
+to martial qualities, to the exclusion of all pacific virtues, have
+promoted the growth of the French military vices, particularly
+selfishness and licentiousness, among all ranks and descriptions of the
+people, and materially injured their general character, even in the
+remotest parts of the country. During the revolution, and under the
+Imperial Government, men have owed their success, in France, almost
+exclusively to the influence of their intellectual abilities, without
+any assistance from their moral character; in consequence, the contempt
+for religion is more generally diffused, and more openly expressed than
+it was; and although loud protestations of inviolable honour are still
+necessary, integrity of conduct is much less respected. The abolition of
+the old, and the formation of a new nobility, composed chiefly of men
+who had risen from inferior military situations, has had a most
+pernicious effect on the general manners of the nation. The chief or
+sole use of a hereditary nobility in a free country, is to keep up a
+standard of dignity and elegance of manner, which serves as a model of
+imitation much more extensively than the middling and lower ranks are
+often willing to allow, and has a more beneficial effect on the national
+character, than it is easy to explain on mere speculative principles.
+But the manners of the new French nobility being the very reverse of
+dignified or elegant, their constitution has hitherto tended only to
+confirm the changes in the general manners of a great proportion of the
+French nation, which the revolutionary ideas had effected. There are
+very few men to be seen now in France, who (making all allowances for
+difference of previous habits) appear to Englishmen to possess either
+the manners or feelings of gentlemen.
+
+The best possible proof that this is not a mere national prejudice, in
+so far as the army is concerned, is, that the French _ladies_ are very
+generally of the same way of thinking. After the English officers left
+Toulouse in the summer of 1814, the ladies of that town found the
+manners of the French officers who succeeded them so much less
+agreeable, that they could not be prevailed on, for a long time, to
+admit them into their society. This is a triumph over the arms of
+France, which we apprehend our countrymen would have found it much more
+difficult to achieve in the days of the ancient monarchy.
+
+On the other hand, it must be admitted, that the revolution, has had the
+effect of completely removing from the French character that silly
+veneration for high rank, unaccompanied by any commanding qualities of
+mind, which used to form a predominant feature in it. Yet it seems
+doubtful whether the equivalent they have obtained is more likely to
+promote their happiness. They have now an equally infatuated admiration
+for ability and success, without integrity or virtue. Their minds have
+been delivered from the dominion of rank without talents, and have
+fallen under that of talents without principle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+PARIS--THE THEATRES.
+
+
+It is difficult for any person who has never quitted England to enter
+into the feelings which every one must experience when he first finds it
+in his power to examine those peculiarities of national manners, or
+national taste, in the people of other states, which have long been the
+subject of speculation in his own country, and on his imperfect
+knowledge of which, much perhaps of the estimate he has formed of the
+character of those nations may depend. The circumstance which perhaps,
+of all others connected with the people of France, is most likely to
+create this feeling of curiosity and interest, is the opportunity of
+attending the French theatres. In most countries, and even in some
+where dramatic representations possess much greater power over the minds
+of the audience, the theatre is comparatively of much less importance to
+a stranger in assisting him to judge of the character of the people; the
+observations which he may collect can seldom be of any great use in
+affording him means of understanding their manners and public character,
+and at the most, cannot inform him of those circumstances in the
+character of the people with which their happiness and prosperity are
+connected;--but the theatre at Paris is an object of the greatest
+interest to a stranger; every one knows how strikingly the character and
+dispositions of the French people are displayed at their theatres; and
+at the period when we were there, as every speech almost contained
+something which was eagerly turned into an allusion to the circumstances
+of their situation, and to the events which had so lately taken place,
+the interest which the theatres must at any time have excited, was
+greatly increased.
+
+There was another object also, less temporary in its nature, which
+rendered frequent attendance at the theatre, one of the most useful and
+instructive occupations of our time. The construction and character of
+the French tragedies have been as generally questioned in other
+countries, as they are universally and enthusiastically admired in
+France; and with whatever feelings, whether of pleasure or fatigue, we
+might have read these celebrated compositions, we were all naturally
+most anxious to ascertain how far they were calculated for actual
+representation, and what effect these plays, which possess such
+influence over the French people, might produce on those who had been
+accustomed to dramatic writings of so very different a description.
+
+The theatres present, at first view, a very favourable aspect of French
+character. The audience uniformly conduct themselves with propriety and
+decorum; they are always attentive to the piece represented, and shew
+themselves, in general very good judges of theatrical merit; and the
+entertainments which please their taste are certainly of a superior
+order to a great part of those which are popular in England. A great
+number of the performances which are loudly applauded by the pit and
+boxes of the London theatres, would be esteemed low and vulgar, even by
+the galleries at the Theatre Français. It must be added, likewise, that
+the morality of the plays which are in request, is very generally more
+strict than of favourite English plays; and often of a refined and
+sentimental turn, which would be little relished in England. The
+tragedies acted at the Theatre Français are generally modelled on the
+Greek; those of Racine and Voltaire are common. The comedies have seldom
+any low life or buffoonery, or vulgar ribaldry in them; The after
+pieces, and the ballets at the Academie de Musique, and at the Opera
+Comique, are often beautiful representations of rural innocence and
+enjoyments.
+
+It appears at first difficult to reconcile this taste in theatrical
+entertainments with the well-known immorality of the Parisians; but the
+fact is, that as they are in the daily habit of speaking of virtues
+which they do not practise, so it never appears to enter their heads;
+that the sentiments which they delight in hearing at the theatres ought
+to regulate their conduct to one another. They applaud them only for
+their adaptation to the situation of the fictitious personages; whereas
+in England they are applauded, for speaking home to the business and
+bosoms of the audience.
+
+The conduct and style of the French tragedies, in particular, appear to
+be very characteristic of a nation among whom noble and virtuous
+feelings are no sooner experienced than they are proclaimed to the
+world; and are there valued, rather for the selfish pleasure they
+produce, in the mind, than for their influence on conduct. The French
+will not admit, in their tragedies, the representation of all the
+variety of character and situation that can throw an air of truth and
+reality over dramatic fiction; they can admire such incidents and
+characters only, as accord with the sentiments and emotions which it is
+the peculiar province of tragedy to excite. They are not satisfied with
+the indication, in a few energetic words,--valuable only as an index to
+the state of the mind, and an earnest of the actions of the speaker,--of
+feelings too strong to find vent at the moment, in words capable of
+fully expressing them; they must have the full developement, the long
+detailed exposition of all the thoughts which crowd into the mind of the
+actor or sufferer, expanded, as it were, to prolong the enjoyment of
+those who are to sympathise with them, and expressed in select and
+appropriate terms, with the pomp and stateliness of heroic verse. An
+English tragedy is valued as a representation of life and character; a
+French tragedy as a display of eloquence and feeling: and the reason is,
+that in France eloquence and feeling are valued for their own sake, and
+in England they are valued for the sake of the corresponding character
+and conduct.
+
+It is perhaps one of the strongest arguments in favour of the general
+plan of the English drama, and one of the best proofs that dramatic
+poetry ought to be judged by very different principles from those by
+which other kinds of poetry are criticised, that one of the principal
+merits of the French actors consists in hiding the chief peculiarities
+of their own dramatic school. The personages in a French tragedy are
+represented by the authors as it were a degree above human nature; but
+the actors study to present themselves before the audience as simple men
+and women: the speeches are generally such as appear to be delivered by
+persons who are superior to the overwhelming influence of strong
+passions, and who can calmly enter into an analysis of their own
+feelings; but the actors labour to give you the impression, that they
+are agitated by present, violent, and sudden emotions; the tragedies are
+composed with as much regularity as epic poems in heroic verse, but the
+best actors do all in their power, by varied intonation, by irregular
+pauses, and frequent bursts of passion, to conceal the rhymes, and break
+the uniformity of the measure.
+
+The effect of the rhymes and regular versification, in the mouths of the
+inferior actors, who have not the art to conceal them, is, to an English
+ear at least, very unpleasing, and indeed almost destructive of
+theatrical illusion; and as a number of such actors must necessarily
+appear in every tragedy, it may be doubted whether a tragedy is ever
+acted throughout on the French stage in so pleasing a manner, at least
+to an English taste, as some of our English tragedies are at present in
+the London theatres--as Venice preserved, for example, is now acted at
+Covent Garden. If such be our superiority, however, it must be ascribed,
+not to the tragic genius of the people being greater, but to there being
+fewer difficulties to be overcome on the English stage than on the
+French.
+
+We think it is pretty clear, likewise, that the style of the best
+English tragedies affords a better field for the display of genius in
+the actors, than that of the French. Where the sentiments of the
+characters introduced are fully expressed in their words--where their
+whole thoughts are detailed for the edification of the audience, however
+grand or touching these may be, it is obvious, that the actor who is to
+represent them is in trammels; the poet has done so much, that little
+remains for him; his art is confined to the display of emotions or
+passions, all the variations of which are set down for him, and which he
+is not permitted to alter. But when the expression of intense feeling is
+confined to few words, to broken sentences, and sudden transitions of
+thought, which let you, indeed, into the inmost recesses of the soul of
+the sufferer, but do not lay it open before you, it is permitted for the
+genius of the actor to co-operate with that of the poet in producing an
+effect, for which neither was singly competent. Those who have witnessed
+the representation of the heart-rendings of jealousy in Kean's Othello,
+or of the agonies of "love and sorrow joined" in Miss O'Neil's
+Belvidera, will, we are persuaded, acknowledge the truth of this
+observation.
+
+The ideas which we had formed of the French stage, from reading their
+tragedies, had prepared us to expect, in their principal actor, a
+figure, countenance, and manner, resembling those of Kemble, fitted to
+give full effect to the declamations in which they abound, and to the
+representation of characters of heroic virtue, elevated above the
+influence of earthly passions. The appearance of Talma is very different
+from this, and certainly has by no means the uniform dignity and
+majestic elevation of Kemble.
+
+Difficult as it must always be to convey, by any general description, a
+distinct or adequate notion of the excellence of any actor, there are
+some circumstances which it is common to mention, and some expressions
+which must be understood wherever the theatre is an object of interest,
+and the power of acting appreciated. Talma appears to us to unite more
+of the advantages of figure, and countenance, and voice, than any actor
+that we have ever seen: it is not that his person is large and graceful,
+or even well proportioned; on the contrary, he is rather a short man,
+and is certainly not without defects in the shape of his limbs. But
+these disadvantages are wholly overlooked in admiration of his dignified
+and imposing carriage--of his majestic head--and of his full and
+finely-proportioned chest, which expresses so nobly the resolution, and
+manliness, and independence of the human character.
+
+There is one circumstance in which Talma has every perfection which it
+is possible to conceive--in the power, and richness, and beauty of his
+_voice_. It is one of those commanding and pathetic voices which can
+never, at any distance of time, be forgotten by any one who has once
+heard it: every variety of tone and expression of which the human voice
+is capable, is perfectly at his command, and succeed each other with a
+rapidity and power which it is not possible to conceive. It makes its
+way to the heart the instant it is heard, and at the moment he begins to
+speak, you feel not only your attention fixed, and your admiration
+excited, but the mind wholly subdued by its resistless influence, and
+disposed to enter at once into every emotion which he may wish to
+produce. The beauty and feeling of his under tones, the affection,
+tenderness, and pity which they so exquisitely express, are so perfect,
+that no one could foresee in such perfections, the fierce, hurried, and
+overhearing tones of Nero--the voice of deep and exhausting suffering,
+which in Hamlet shews so profound an impression of the misery he had
+undergone, and of the hopelessness of the situation in which he is
+placed,--or still more the shriek of agony in Orestes, when he finds the
+horrors of madness again assailing him, and when, in that utter
+prostration of soul which the belief of inevitable and merciless destiny
+alone could produce in his mind, he abandons himself in dark despair to
+the misery which seems to close around him for ever.
+
+We have heard several English people describe Talma's countenance, as by
+no means powerful enough for a great actor; it appeared to us, that in
+no one respect was he so decidedly superior to any _actor_ on the
+English stage, as in the truth and variety of expression which it
+displays. There is one observation indeed regarding the acting of Talma,
+which often suggested itself, and which may, in some degree, prepare us
+to expect, that English people in general could not be much struck with
+the expression of his countenance. On the English stage, it appears
+commonly to be the object of the actors, to give to every sentiment the
+whole effect of which the words of the part will admit, as fully as if
+that sentiment were the only one which could occupy the mind of the
+character at the time; and any person who will attend to the manner in
+which Macbeth and Hamlet are performed, even by that great actor whose
+genius has secured at once the pre-eminence which the reputation of
+Garrick had left so long uncontested, may observe, that many of the
+parts, which are applauded as the strongest proofs of the abilities of
+the actor, consist in the expression given to sentiments, undoubtedly of
+subordinate importance in the situation of these characters, and which
+probably could never occupy so exclusively the mind of any one really
+placed in the circumstances represented in the play, and under the
+influence of the feelings which such circumstances are calculated to
+produce. In the character of Hamlet, in particular, there are several
+passages, in which it is the custom to express minor and passing
+sentiments with a keenness little suitable to the profound grief in
+which Hamlet ought to be absorbed at the commencement of the play, and
+which can be natural only when the mind is free from other more powerful
+emotions. It appears to us, that the consistency of character is much
+more judiciously and naturally preserved in the acting of Talma; that he
+is more careful to maintain invariably that unity of expression which
+ought to be given to the character, and is more uniformly under the
+influence of those predominating feelings, which the circumstances of
+the situation in which the part has placed him seem fitted to excite.
+Under this impression apparently of the object which an actor ought to
+keep in view, Talma omits many opportunities, which would be eagerly
+employed on the English stage, to display the power of the actor, though
+the natural consistency of character might be violated; and never seems
+to think it proper to express, on all occasions, every sentiment with
+that effect which should be given to it, only when it becomes the
+predominant feeling of the moment. Much, no doubt, is lost for stage
+effect by this notion of acting. Many opportunities are passed over,
+which might have been employed to shew the manner in which the actor can
+represent a variety of feelings, which the language of the play may seem
+to admit; and we lose much of the art and skill of acting, when the
+talents of the actor are limited to the display of such sentiments only
+as accord with the simple and decided expression of character which he
+is anxious to maintain.
+
+But on the other hand, the impression which this representation of
+character makes upon the mind, is on the whole much more profound, and
+the interest which the spectator takes in the circumstances in which the
+character is placed, is much greater when the actor is so wholly under
+the influence of the feelings which the situation of the part ought to
+excite, as never to betray any emotion which can weaken that general
+effect which this situation would naturally produce. To those,
+therefore, accustomed to the greater variety of expression which the
+practice of the English stage renders necessary in the countenance of
+every actor, and to the strong and often exaggerated manner in which
+common sentiments and ordinary feelings are represented, there may
+perhaps appear some want of expression in Talma's countenance; but no
+one can attend fully to any of the more interesting characters which he
+performs, without feeling an impression produced by the power and
+intelligence of his countenance, which no length of time will ever
+wholly efface. It is not the expression of his countenance at any
+particular moment which fixes itself on the mind, or the force with
+which accidental feelings are represented; but that permanent and
+powerful expression which suits the character he has to sustain, and
+never for an instant permits you to forget the circumstances, of
+whatever kind, in which he is placed; and those who have seen him in any
+of the greater parts on the French stage, can never forget that
+unrivalled power of expressing deep grief, of which nothing in any
+English actor at present on the stage can afford any idea.
+
+At the same time it must be admitted, that Talma has arrived at that
+time of life, when the hand of age has impaired, in some degree, the
+vigour and expression of the human frame, and when his countenance has
+lost much of that variety and play of expression which belongs to the
+period of youth alone; it has lost much of the warmth and keenness of
+youthful feeling, and probably might fail in expressing that openness,
+and gaiety, and enthusiasm, which time has so great a tendency to
+diminish. But these qualities are not often required in the parts which
+Talma has to perform in the French plays; and if his countenance has
+lost some of the perfections of earlier years, it has, on the other
+hand, gained much from the seriousness and dignity of age. If, for
+instance, he does not express so well the ardour--the hope--the triumph
+of youthful love, there is yet something irresistibly affecting in the
+earnestness with which he expresses that passion; something which adds
+most deeply to the interest which its expression is calculated to
+excite, by reminding one of the instability of human enjoyment, and of
+the many misfortunes which the course of life may bring with it to
+destroy the visions of inexperienced affection. We have already
+mentioned, that in the expression of profound emotion and deep
+suffering, the countenance of Talma is altogether admirable; and we
+doubt whether there is any thing is this respect more true and perfect,
+even in the performance of that great actress who has, in the present
+day, united every perfection of grace, and beauty, and genuine feeling
+which the stage has ever exhibited. But the countenance of Talma, in
+scenes of distress, expresses not merely suffering, but if possible,
+something more, which we have never seen in any other actor. He alone
+possesses the power of expressing that impatience under suffering--that
+restless, constant wish for relief, which produces so strong an
+impression of the truth and reality of the affliction with which you are
+called upon to sympathise.
+
+His attitudes and action are uncommonly striking, seldom in the
+exaggeration of the French stage, and never running into that immoderate
+expression of passion in which dignity of character is necessarily
+sacrificed. Talma appears to understand the use and management of action
+better than any actor on the French stage; and though at times some
+prominent faults, inseparable, perhaps, from the character of the plays
+in which he is compelled to perform, may be observable; yet, in general,
+his action appears to possess a power and expression beyond what is
+attempted by any actor on the English stage.
+
+Nothing can be conceived apparently so inconsistent with the character
+of the French plays, as the manner in which they are delivered. The
+harangues, which are tedious to many when read, might probably be very
+uninteresting to all when performed, if delivered with that unbending
+and unimpassioned declamation, which seems to suit "their stately march
+and long resounding lines:" to a French audience, in particular, such
+representations would be intolerable, and the actors, accordingly, have
+been led to perform them with a degree of energy and passion which they
+do not appear intended to admit, but which was necessary, perhaps, to
+awaken those emotions which it must be more or less the object of
+theatrical representations to excite, wherever they are to be performed
+to all classes of mankind. As might have been foreseen, the French
+actors, compelled to counterfeit a degree of warmth and feeling which
+was not suggested by the sentiments they utter, or the language they
+employ, have fallen very naturally into the error of making the
+expression of passion immoderately vehement; and thus, when not guided
+by the language they are to use, have become not only indiscriminate in
+the introduction of violent emotion, but often run into a degree of
+warmth, totally destructive of every feeling of propriety and dignity.
+
+The striking circumstance in Talma's acting is, that he alone seems to
+know how to act the French plays with all the feeling and interest which
+can be necessary to produce effect; and at the same time, to avoid that
+exaggerated representation of passion which represses the very emotions
+it is intended to excite. The means by which the genius of this great
+actor has accomplished so important an effect, and overcome the
+difficulties which seem insuperable to the rest of his countrymen,
+afford the best illustration that can be given of the talents and
+imagination he displays. Talma appears to have thought, and most justly,
+that the only manner in which the French tragedies can approach and
+interest the heart, is by the impression which the character and the
+moral tendency of the play may, upon the whole, be able to produce, not
+by the force or pathos which can be thrown into any detached speeches,
+or by the effect with which individual parts of the tragedy may be
+given. The impression which might be created by the delivery of any
+particular passage, or by the expression of any occasional sentiment, he
+seems at all times to consider as of subordinate importance to the
+preservation of that permanent character, whether of intense and
+overpowering suffering, or wild desperation, by which he thinks the
+feelings of the spectators may be most deeply and heartily interested.
+Much as we admire the excellencies of the English stage, and none we are
+persuaded can have an opportunity of comparing it with the acting of the
+French theatre, without being more sensible of its perfections, we
+think it may yet be observed, that many important objects are sacrificed
+to the desire of producing _continual_ emotion,--to the practice of
+making every sentiment and every word tell upon the audience, with an
+effect which could not be greater, if that sentiment were the whole
+object of the tragedy. We admit, most willingly, the talent and feeling
+which are often so beautifully displayed in the course of the inferior
+scenes; and the impression, which is so frequently produced over the
+"whole assembled multitude," by the delivery of a single passage, of no
+importance in itself, attests sufficiently the merits of the actors who
+can thus wield at will the passions of the spectators. What we are
+anxious to observe is, that the _general impression_, from the play must
+be less profound, when the mind is thus distracted by a variety of
+powerful feelings succeeding each other so rapidly, and when the
+interest, which would naturally increase of itself as the performance
+proceeds, in the history and moral tendency of the tragedy, is thus
+broken, as it were, by the influence of so many transient passions. It
+is very singular to observe the difference, in this respect, between the
+character of an English and a Parisian audience: To the former, every
+thing, as it passes, must be given with the greatest effect; no
+opportunity can safely be omitted, by any one attentive to the public
+opinion, of displaying the power with which each sentiment may be
+expressed; and there is no common feeling among the spectators, of the
+subserviency of all the different parts of the tragedy to one great
+import, or that it is only in the more important scenes, where the
+events of the story are coming to a close, that great talent is to be
+exerted, or profound emotion excited. The feelings of a French audience,
+as might be expected, are such as better suit the character of the plays
+which have been so long addressed to them; they like to have their
+interest awakened, and their feelings excited, only as the story
+proceeds, and the deeper scenes of the tragedy begin to open upon them;
+and it is to the general impression which the progress and close of the
+play leave upon the mind, that they look, as to the criterion of the
+excellence of the manner, in which that play has been performed.
+Nothing, therefore, can be apparently quieter than the commencement of a
+French tragedy; and a person unacquainted with the language, would be
+disposed to conclude what was passing before him as uninteresting in the
+highest degree, if he did not observe the most profound and eager
+attention to prevail in those to whom it is addressed. It would be a
+subject of very curious and instructive speculation, to examine the
+circumstances, in the situation and intelligence of the people in both
+countries, which have occasioned this remarkable difference in their
+feelings, in moments when the influence of prejudice, or the effect of
+peculiar character, generally gives way, and when the genuine sentiments
+of mankind, as invariably happens when the different ranks of men are
+assembled indiscriminately together, assume their natural empire over
+the human heart. It might unfold some interesting conclusions both as to
+the great object of the drama, and the genuine style of dramatic
+representation; and might place, in a more important point of view than
+is within the consideration, perhaps, of many who so hastily decide on
+the superiority of the English stage, the excellence they admire.
+
+Much as the French tragedies are despised in this country, and sensible
+as we are of many essential defects which belong to them, when
+considered as the means of exciting popular feeling, or of applying to
+the duties of common life, we must yet state the very great and lasting
+impression which many of them left on our minds, and which, we can truly
+say, was never equalled by any effect produced by the most successful
+efforts of the English stage. At our own theatres, we have been often
+more deeply affected during the performance of the play,--we have often
+admired, much more, the grace, or feeling, or grandeur of the acting we
+witnessed, and been more highly delighted with the _species_ of talent
+which was displayed; but yet, we must acknowledge, that the impression
+that all this _left upon the mind_, was not such as has been produced by
+the powers of Talma in the French tragedies. We had many occasions,
+however, to see that this effect was to be attributed chiefly to the
+genius of this great actor, and that it was only when entrusted to him,
+that the influence of these plays was so deeply felt.
+
+The great difference, then, between the acting of Talma, and of the
+other actors on the French stage, is his constant attention to the means
+by which the impression, which the general tendency of the play will
+produce, may be increased. Whatever may be the character which the
+nature of the tragedy seems to require, his whole powers are employed to
+pursue that character inviolably during the progress of the play, and to
+add to the effect it is fitted to produce: The character of profound
+grief, for instance, is so completely sustained, that the very act of
+speaking seems an exertion too great for a mind which suffering has
+nearly exhausted, and where, in consequence, the pomp and energy of
+declamation, and many of the most natural aids by which passion is wont
+to express itself, are all disregarded in the intensity of mental agony.
+It is not uncommon, accordingly, to see Talma perform parts of a tragedy
+in a manner which might seem tame and unmeaning to one who had not been
+present at the preceding parts, but which is most interesting to those
+who have seen the character which he adopts from the first, and feel the
+propriety and effect of the manner in which that character is sustained.
+Some of the most striking effects we have ever seen produced in any
+acting, are in those scenes, in many plays in which he performs, in
+which, from his powerful and affecting personation of character, his
+exhausted mind seems unable to enter into any events which are not
+either to relieve his sufferings, or terminate an existence which
+appears beset with such hopeless misery. Other actors may have succeeded
+in expressing as strongly the influence of present suffering, or the
+despair of intense grief. It is Talma alone who knows how to express,
+what is so much more grand, the effects of long suffering; to remind you
+of the misery he has endured by the spectacle of an exhausted frame and
+broken spirit; and by exhibiting the overwhelming consequence of those
+sufferings which the poet has not dared to describe, nor the actor
+ventured to represent to interest the mind far more profoundly than any
+representation of present passion could possibly effect. The influence
+of the exertions of other actors is limited to the effects of the
+emotions they represent, and of the suffering they exhibit: the genius
+of Talma has imitated the efforts of ancient Greece in her matchless
+sculpture, and, in every situation which put it within his power,
+chosen, as the proper field for the display of the actor's powers, not
+the mere representation of excess in suffering, but that moment of
+greater interest, when the struggle of nature is past, and the mind has
+sunk under the pressure of affliction, which no fortitude could sustain,
+and which no ray of hope had cheered.
+
+Every one knows the peculiar manner in which, in general, the verses of
+the French tragedy are repeated, and the delight which the French people
+take in the uniform and balanced modulation of voice with which they are
+accompanied. In an ordinary actor, this peculiar tone is often, to many
+foreigners, extremely fatiguing, but it is defended in France, as
+securing a pleasure in some degree independent of the merits of the
+actor, and defending the audience from the harshness of tone, and
+extravagancies of accent, to which otherwise, in bad actors, they would
+be exposed; and certainly no one can listen, in the National Theatre, to
+the beautiful and splendid declamations of the most celebrated
+compositions in French literature, delivered in the manner which has
+been selected as best adapted to the character of the plays and the
+taste of the people, with any feeling of indifference. In the skilful
+hands of Talma, who preserves the beauty of the poetry nearly unimpaired
+in the very _abandon_ of feeling, the French verse acquires beauties
+which it never before could boast, and loses all that is harsh or
+painful in the uniformity of its structure, or the monotony of
+artificial taste. The description which Le Baron de Grimm has given of
+Le Kain may be well applied to Talma. "Un talent plus precieux sans
+doute et qu'il avait porté au plus haut degré c'etait celui de faire
+sentir tout le charme des beaux vers sans nuire jamais a la verité de
+l'expression. En dechirant le coeur, il enchantait toujours l'oreille, sa
+voix pénétrait jusqu'au fond de l'ame, et l'impression qu'elle y
+faisait, semblable a celle du burin, y laissait des traces et longs
+souvenirs."
+
+The tragedy of Hamlet, in which we saw Talma perform for the first time,
+is one which must be interesting to every person who has any
+acquaintance with French literature; and it will not probably be
+considered as any great digression in a description of Talma's
+excellencies as an actor, to add some further remarks concerning that
+celebrated play in which his powers are perhaps most strikingly
+displayed, and which is one of the greatest compositions undoubtedly of
+the French theatre. It can hardly be called a translation, as many
+material alterations were made in the story of the play; and though the
+general purport of the principal speeches has been sometimes preserved,
+the language and sentiments are generally extremely different. The
+character of Shakespeare's Hamlet was wholly unsuited to the taste of a
+French audience. What is the great attraction in that mysterious being
+to the feelings of the English people, the strange, wild, and
+metaphysical ideas which his art or his madness seems to take such
+pleasure in starting, and the uncertainty in which Shakespeare has left
+the reader with regard to Hamlet's real situation, would not perhaps
+have been understood--certainly not admired, by those who were
+accustomed to consider the works of Racine and Voltaire as the models of
+dramatic composition. In the play of Ducis, accordingly, Hamlet thinks,
+talks, and acts pretty much as any other human being would do, who
+should be compelled to speak only in the verse of the French tragedy,
+which necessarily excludes, in a great degree, any great incoherence or
+flightiness of sentiment. In some respects, however, the French Hamlet,
+if a less poetical personage, is nevertheless a more interesting one,
+and better adapted to excite those feelings which are most within the
+command of the actor's genius. M. Ducis has represented him as more
+doubtful of the reality of the vision which haunted him, or at least of
+the authority which had commissioned it for such dreadful
+communications; and this alteration, so important in the hands of Talma,
+was required on account of other changes which had been made in the
+story of the play. The paramour of the Queen is not Hamlet's uncle, nor
+had the Queen either married the murderer, or discovered her criminal
+connexion with him. Hamlet, therefore, has not, in the incestuous
+marriage of his mother, that strong confirmation of the ghost's
+communication, which, in Shakespeare, led him to suspect foul play even
+before he sees his father's spirit. In the French play, therefore,
+Hamlet is placed in one of the most dreadful situations in which the
+genius of poetry can imagine a human being: Haunted by a spirit, which
+assumes such mastery over his mind, that he cannot dispel the fearful
+impression it has made, or disregard the communication it so often
+repeats, while his attachment to his mother, in whom he reveres the
+parent he has lost, makes him question the truth of crimes which are
+thus laid to her charge, and causes him to look upon this terrific
+spectre as the punishment of unknown crime, and the visitation of an
+offended Deity. Ducis has most judiciously and most poetically
+represented Hamlet, in the despair which his sufferings produce, as
+driven to the belief of an over-ruling destiny, disposing of the fate of
+its unhappy victims by the most arbitrary and revolting arrangement, and
+visiting upon some, with vindictive fury, the whole crimes of the age in
+which they live. There is in this introduction of ancient superstition,
+something which throws a mysterious veil round the destiny of Hamlet,
+that irresistibly engrosses the imagination, and which must be doubly
+interesting in that country where the horrors of the revolution have
+ended in producing a very prevalent, though vague belief, in the
+influence of fatality upon human character and human actions, among
+those who pretend to ridicule, as unmanly prejudice and childish
+delusion, the religion of modern Europe.
+
+The struggle, accordingly, that appears to take place in Hamlet's mind
+is most striking; and when at last he yields to the authority and the
+commands of the spirit, which exercises such tyranny over his mind, it
+does not seem the result of any farther evidence of the guilt which he
+is enjoined to revenge, but as the triumph of superstition over the
+strength of his reason. He had long resisted the influence of that
+visionary being, which announced itself as his father's injured spirit,
+and in assuming that sacred form, had urged him to destroy the only
+parent whom fate had left; but the struggle had brought him to the brink
+of the grave, and shaken the empire of reason; and when at last he
+abandons himself to the guidance of a power which his firmer nature had
+long resisted, the impression of the spectator is, that his mind has
+yielded in the struggle, and that, in the desperate hope of obtaining
+relief from present wretchedness, he is about to commit the most
+horrible crimes, by obeying the suggestions of a spirit, which he more
+than suspects to be employed only to tempt him on to perdition. No
+description can possibly do justice to the manner in which this
+situation of Hamlet is represented by Talma; indeed, on reading over the
+play some time afterwards, it was very evident that the powers of the
+actor had invested the character with much of the grandeur and terror
+which seemed to belong to it, and that the imagination of the French
+poet, which rises into excellence, even when compared with the
+productions of that great master of the passions whom he has not
+submitted to copy, has been surpassed by the fancy of the actor for whom
+he wrote. The Hamlet of Talma is probably productive of more profound
+emotion, than any representation of character on any stage ever excited.
+
+One other alteration ought to be mentioned, as it renders the
+circumstances of Hamlet's situation still more distressing, and affords
+Talma an opportunity of displaying the effects of one of the gentler
+passions of human nature, when its influence seemed irreconcileable with
+the stern and fearful duties which fate had assigned to him. The Ophelia
+of the French play, so unlike that beautiful and innocent being who
+alone seems to connect the Hamlet of Shakespeare with the feelings and
+nature of ordinary men, has been made the daughter of the man for whose
+sake the king has been poisoned, and was engaged to marry Hamlet at that
+happier period when he was the ornament of his father's court, and the
+hope of his father's subjects. In the first part of the play, though no
+hint of the terrible revenge which he was to execute on her father has
+escaped, the looks and anxiety of Talma discover to her that her fate is
+in some degree connected with the emotions which so visibly oppress him,
+and she makes him at last confess the insurmountable barrier which
+separates them for ever. Nothing can be greater than the acting of Talma
+during this difficult scene, in which he has to resist the entreaties of
+the woman whom he loves, when imploring for the life of her father, and
+yet so overcome with his affection, as hardly to have strength left to
+adhere to his dreadful purpose.
+
+The feelings of a French audience do not permit the spirit of Hamlet's
+father to appear on the stage: "L'apparition se passe, (says Madame de
+Stael)[3], en entier dans la physionomie de Talma, et certes elle n'en
+est pas ainsi moins effrayante. Quand, au milieu d'un entretien calme et
+melancolique, tout a coup il aperçoit le spectre, on suit tout; ses
+mouvemens dans les yeux qui le contemplent, et l'on ne peut douter de la
+presence du fantome quand un tel regard l'atteste." The remark is
+perfectly just, nothing can be imagined more calculated to dispel at
+once the effect which the countenance of a great actor, in such
+circumstances, would naturally produce, than bringing any one on the
+stage to personate the ghost; and whoever has seen Talma in this part,
+will acknowledge that the mind is not disposed to doubt, for an instant,
+the existence of that form which no eye but his has seen, and of that
+voice which no ear but his has heard. We regretted much, while
+witnessing the astonishing powers which Talma displayed in this very
+difficult part of the play, that it was impossible to see his genius
+employed in giving effect to the character of Aristodemo, (in the
+Italian tragedy of that name by Monti), to which his talents alone could
+do justice, and which, perhaps, affords more room for the display of the
+actor's powers, than any other play with which we are acquainted.
+
+But the soliloquy on death is the part in which the astonishing
+excellence and genius of Talma are most strikingly displayed. Whatever
+difficulty there may often be to determine the particular manner in
+which scenes, with other characters, ought to be performed, there is no
+difference of opinion as to the manner in which soliloquies ought in
+general to be delivered. How comes it, then, that these are the very
+parts in which all feel that the powers of the actors are so much tried,
+and in which, for the most part, they principally fail? No one can have
+paid any attention to the English stage, without being struck with the
+circumstance, that while there may be much to praise in the performance
+of the other parts, many of the best actors uniformly fail in
+soliloquies; and that it is only of late, since the reputation of the
+English stage, has been so splendidly revived, that we have seen these
+difficult and interesting parts properly performed. It is in this
+circumstance, more than any other, in which the talents of Talma are
+most remarkably displayed, because he is peculiarly fitted, by his
+complete personation of character, and the deep interest which he seems
+himself to take in the part he is sustaining, to excel in performing
+what chiefly requires such interest. He is, at all times, so fully
+impressed with the feelings, which, under such circumstances, must have
+been really felt, that one is uniformly struck with the truth and
+propriety of every thing he does; and of course, in soliloquies, which
+must be perfect, when the actor appears to be seriously and deeply
+interested in the subjects on which he is meditating, Talma invariably
+succeeds. In this soliloquy in Hamlet, he is completely absorbed in the
+awful importance of the great question which occupies his attention, and
+nothing indicates the least consciousness of the multitude which
+surrounds him, or even that he is giving utterance to the mighty
+thoughts which crowd upon his mind. "Talma ne faisoit pas un geste,
+quelquefois seulement il remuoit la tête pour questioner la terre et le
+ciel sur ce que c'est que la mort! Immobile, la dignité de la meditation
+absorboit tout son etre."--De l'Allemagne, 1. c. We could wish to avoid
+any attempt to describe the acting of Talma in those passages which the
+eloquence of M. de Stael has rendered familiar throughout Europe; yet we
+feel that this account of the tragedy of Hamlet would be imperfect, if
+we did not allude to that very interesting scene, which corresponds, in
+the history of the play, to the closet scene in Shakespeare. Talma
+appears with the urn which contains the ashes of his father, and whose
+injured spirit he seems to consult, to obtain more proof of the guilt
+which he is to revenge, or in the hope that the affections of human
+nature may yet survive the horrors of the tomb, and that the duty of
+the son will not be tried in the blood of the parent who gave him birth.
+But no voice is heard to alter the sentence which he is doomed to
+execute; and he is still compelled to prepare himself to meet with
+sternness his guilty mother. After charging her, with the utmost
+tenderness and solemnity, with the knowledge of her husband's murder, he
+places the urn in her hands, and requires her to swear her innocence
+over the sacred ashes which it contains. At first, the consciousness
+that Hamlet could only _suspect_ her crime, gives her resolution to
+commence the oath with firmness; and Talma, with an expression of
+countenance which cannot be described, awaits, in triumph and joy, the
+confirmation of her innocence,--and seems to call upon the spirit which
+had haunted him, to behold the solemn scene which proves the falsehood
+of its mission. But the very tenderness which he shews destroys the
+resolution of his mother, and she hesitates in the oath she had begun to
+pronounce. His feelings are at once changed,--the paleness of horror,
+and fury of revenge, are marked in his countenance, and his hands grasp
+the steel which is to punish her guilt: But the agony of his mother
+again overpowers him, at the moment he is about to strike; he appeals
+for mercy to the shade of his father, in a voice, in which, as M. de
+Stael has truly said, all the feelings of human nature seem at once to
+burst from his heart, and, in an attitude humbled by the view of his
+mother's guilt and wretchedness, he awaits the confession she seems
+ready to make: and when she sinks, overcome by the remorse and agony
+which she feels, he remembers only that she is his mother; the affection
+which had been long repressed again returns, and he throws himself on
+his knees, to assure her of the mercy of Heaven. We do not wish to be
+thought so presumptuous as to compare the talents of the French author
+with the genius of Shakespeare, but we must be allowed to say, that we
+think this scene better managed for dramatic effect: and certainly no
+part of Hamlet, on the English stage, ever produced the same impression,
+or affected us so deeply. We are well aware, however, how very different
+the scene would have appeared in the hands of any other actors than
+Talma and Madle Duchesnois, and that a very great part of the merit
+which the play seemed to possess, might be more justly attributed to the
+talents which they displayed. At the conclusion of this great tragedy,
+which has become so popular in France, and in which the genius of Talma
+is so powerfully exhibited, the applause was universal; and after some
+little time, to our surprise, instead of diminishing, became much
+louder; and presently a cry of Talma burst out from the whole house. In
+a few minutes the curtain drew up, and discovered Talma waiting to
+receive the applause with which they honoured him, and to express his
+sense of the distinction paid to him.
+
+The part of Orestes in Andromaque, is another character in which the
+acting of Talma is seen to much advantage: and to a foreigner, it is
+peculiarly interesting, as it displays, more than any other almost, that
+uncommon power of recitation which distinguishes his acting from the
+tame and monotonous declamation of the ordinary actors; and which gives
+to the splendid language, and elevated sentiments of the French
+tragedies, an effect which cannot easily be understood by any one who
+has never seen them well performed. The part is one which is remarkably
+popular at present in Paris, as there is something in the history of
+that fabulous being, who has been represented as the victim of a
+capricious and arbitrary Providence, and exposed during his whole life
+to the most unmerited and horrible torments, which seems greatly to
+interest the French people; and Talma has thus been led to bestow upon
+the character a degree of reflection and preparation, which the parts
+in a French tragedy do not in general require. There is a passage which
+occurs in the first scene, which exhibits very strikingly the judgment
+and genuine feeling which uniformly marks his acting. After mentioning
+what had happened to him after his disappointment, with regard to
+Hermione, and his separation from Pylades, he says, that he had hastened
+to the great assembly of the Greeks, which the common interest of Greece
+had called together, in the hope, that the ardour, the activity, and the
+love of glory which had distinguished the period of youth, might revive
+with the animating scene which was again presented to his mind.
+
+    "En ce calme trompeur J'arrivai dans la Grece
+    Et Je trouvois d'abord ces princes rassemblès,
+    Qu'un peril assez grand sembloit avoir troublès.
+    J'y courus. Je pensai que la guerre et la gloire
+    De soins plus importants remplissoit ma memoire
+    Que mes sens reprenant leur premiere vigueur
+    L'amour acheveroit de sortir de mon coeur.
+    Mais admire avec mois le sort, dont la pursuite
+    Me fait courir alors au piege que j'evite."
+
+There is a similar passage in Othello, in which, when the passion of
+jealousy had seized upon his mind, the Moor laments the degradation to
+which he had fallen, when all the objects of his former ambition ceased
+to interest his imagination, or animate his exertions. In enumerating
+the occupations which formed the pomp and glorious circumstance of war,
+but for which the misery of his situation had completely unmanned him,
+the actors who have attempted this character, fire with the description
+of the arms which he now abandons, and of the scenes in which his renown
+had been acquired. In this analogous passage, Talma repeats these scenes
+with much greater propriety and effect. He appeared overwhelmed by a
+deep sense of the degradation to which a foolish and unmanly attachment
+had reduced him; no gesture or tone of voice, expressive of the
+slightest animation, escaped him, when he described the objects of his
+youthful ambition; every thing denoted the shame and regret of a man who
+felt that his glory and his occupation were gone, and who no longer
+dared to look up with pride to the remembrance of those better days,
+when his valour and his resolution were the admiration of Greece.
+
+The scene between Orestes and Hermione on their first meeting, is one in
+which Talma displays very great power: with his heart full of the
+passion from which he had suffered so much, he begins the declaration of
+his constancy in the most ardent and impressive manner, and for a time
+seems to flatter himself, that resentment at the neglect which she had
+met with from Pyrrhus might have awakened some affection for himself in
+the breast of Hermione. At first she is anxious to secure Orestes in
+case that Pyrrhus should ultimately slight her, and is at pains to
+confirm the hope which she perceives that this passion had created: But
+when he urges her to take the opportunity which how offered itself, of
+leaving a court where she appeared to be detained only to witness the
+marriage of her rival, she betrays at once the state of her mind:--
+
+      "Mais, seigneur, cependant s'il epouse Andromaque.
+      _Oreste_. Hé, madame.
+      _Her_. Songez quelle honte pour nous,
+    Si d'une Phrygienne il devenoit lepoux.
+      _Oreste_. Et vous le haissez!"--&c.
+
+The indignant and bitter irony with which Talma delivers this speech,
+when he finds that resentment at Pyrrhus, and not affection for himself,
+has made her thus anxious to rivet the chains which her former cruelty
+had hardly weakened, is most striking, and he seems at once to regain
+the independence which he had lost.
+
+There is another passage of very peculiar interest, which we hope it
+will not be prolonging these remarks too far to quote, as affording a
+very striking instance of the effect which the powers of Talma are able
+to produce, under almost any circumstances. When Pyrrhus, at one part of
+the play, consents to surrender Astyanax, and by this rupture with
+Andromache, resolves to marry Hermione, Orestes is thrown at once into
+the utmost despair by this sudden change of plans, and by this
+disappointment of his hopes. When he again appears with Pylades, he
+threatens to take the most violent measures, to interrupt this marriage,
+and to carry off Hermione by force from the court where she was
+detained. His friend naturally feels for the wound which his fame must
+suffer from such an outrage, and the dishonour which it would bring upon
+a name rendered sacred throughout Greece, from the unmerited misfortunes
+which he had sustained. "Voila donc le succès qu'aura votre ambassade.
+Oreste ravisseur." But such considerations are of no avail in the
+intemperance of his present feelings; and Orestes, after alluding to the
+injury of a second rejection by Hermione, proceeds to another motive,
+which urged him to any means, however violent to secure his object, and
+which most powerfully interests the imagination. Every one knows the
+supposed history of that mysterious character, whose destiny seemed to
+have placed him at the disposal of some unrelenting enemy of the human
+race, and who had suffered every misfortune which could oppress human
+nature.
+
+    "--Mais, s'il faut ne te rien deguiser
+    Mon innocence enfin commence a me peser,
+    Je ne sais, de tout tems, quelle injuste puissence
+    Laisse le crime en paix, et poursuit l'innocence,
+    De quelque part sur moi que je trouve les yeux,
+    Je ne vois que malheurs qui condamnent lea Dieux,
+    Meritons leur courroux, justifions leur haine,
+    Et que le fruit du crime en précéde la peine."
+
+It is a remark of Seneca, that the most sublime spectacle in nature is
+the view of a great man _struggling against_ misfortune, and such a
+character has ever been considered as the most appropriate subject for
+dramatic representation. The extreme difficulty of succeeding, in the
+very important passage which I have quoted, is obviously because the
+very reverse of such a spectacle is now presented to the mind,--when
+Orestes is made to abandon that distinction in _his fate_ which alone
+gave him any peculiar hold over the feelings of the spectators, and
+because the actor must continue to engage, even more deeply than
+before, their _interest_ and their _pity_, at the very time when the
+sentiments he utters must necessarily lower the dignity of the character
+he sustains, and diminish the compassion he had previously awakened.
+How, then, is that ascendency over the mind, which the singular destiny
+of Orestes naturally acquires, to be preserved, when he no longer is to
+be regarded as the innocent sufferer who claims our interest, and when
+he is content to descend to the level of ordinary men? In this very
+difficult passage Talma is eminently successful; no vehemence of manner
+accompanies the desperate resolution he expresses, the recollection of
+the misery he has suffered, and the dread of the greater misfortunes
+which his present intentions must bring upon him, seem wholly to
+overpower him, and his countenance, marked with the utmost dejection and
+wretchedness, appears still to appeal for mercy to the power which
+persecutes him. Everything in his appearance and voice conveys the
+impression of a person overwhelmed with misfortunes, and hurried on, by
+an impulse he cannot controul, into greater calamities, and more
+complicated misery. The very sentiment which he avows, seems to proceed
+from the over-ruling influence of a destiny which he has in vain
+attempted to resist, and to be only another proof of the unceasing
+persecution to which he is exposed; and though he no longer commands
+admiration, or deserves esteem, he becomes more than ever the object of
+the deepest commiseration. Talma appears to attach much importance to
+the impression which this passage may produce, as much of the view which
+he exhibits of the character of Orestes seems intended to assist its
+effect; and we certainly consider it as the greatest and most successful
+effort of _genius_, which we have ever seen displayed upon any stage.
+After witnessing this representation of the character of Orestes at this
+melancholy period of his life, it was with no ordinary interest that we
+shortly after saw Talma perform the part of Orestes in Iphigénie en
+Tauride, a play which represents very beautifully the only event in his
+life, which ever seemed likely to secure his happiness, the discovery of
+his sister; and we shall never forget the beautiful expression of
+Talma's countenance, and the delightful tones of his voice, when he
+described to his sister and his friend, the emotions which the feeling
+of happiness so new to him had created, and the hopes of future exertion
+and honour, which he now felt himself able to entertain.
+
+The last scene of this interesting tragedy is the most celebrated and
+most admired part in the range of Talma's characters, and undoubtedly it
+is impossible to find any acting more admirable or more affecting: After
+the death of Pyrrhus, he rushes upon the stage to inform Hermione that
+he had obeyed her dreadful commission, and to receive the reward of such
+a proof of his attachment; the horror of the crime which he had
+committed is sunk in his confidence of the claim he has now acquired to
+her gratitude, and he triumphantly relates the circumstances of the
+scene which had passed, as giving him such undeniable titles to the
+reward which had been promised to his firmness.--Madame de Stael has
+mentioned the effect he gives to the short and feeble reply which he
+makes, when Hermione accuses him of cruelty, and throws all the guilt of
+the murder on himself;--but it is in the subsequent part that he appears
+so great: After Hermione leaves him, and he recovers in some degree of
+the stupor which such an unexpected attack had produced, he repeats, in
+a hurried manner, the circumstances of his situation, and dwells on the
+perfidy of Hermione; but when he finds no palliation for his crime, and
+sees how completely he has been degraded by his unmanly weakness, the
+whole enormity of his guilt comes full upon his mind, and he acquires
+even dignity in the opinion of the beholder, from the solemn and
+emphatic manner in which he curses the folly and inhumanity of his
+conduct. But a further blow awaits him; and it is not till Pylades
+informs him of the death of Hermione, that the horrors of madness begin
+to seize on his mind. At first he remains motionless and thunderstruck
+with the dreadful issue of his enterprise; then, in a low and thrilling
+tone of voice, he laments the bitterness and misery of that destiny by
+which he is doomed to be for ever the victim of fate, (du malheur un
+modêle accompli,) till the wildness of madness comes over him: In a
+voice hardly heard, he seems to ask himself, "Quelle épaisse nuit tout a
+coup m'environne, de quelle coté sortir? D'ou-vient que je frissonne.
+Quelle horreur me saisit?"--and at once a shriek, dreadful beyond all
+description, announces the destruction of reason, and the agonies of
+madness. It is vain to describe the wild, desperate, and horrifying
+manner in which he represents Orestes tortured by the frightful visions
+with which the furies had visited his mind, till his nature, exhausted
+by such intense sufferings, sinks at once into a calm, more dreadful
+even than the wildness which had preceded it.
+
+These remarks have been extended so much beyond the limits which can be
+interesting to those who have never seen this unrivalled actor, and to
+whom they can convey so very inadequate a notion of his powers, that it
+is impossible to make any further observations, which his performance in
+other characters may have suggested. The most interesting character,
+perhaps, in which we saw him perform after these, was Nero in
+Britannicus. Every person who has been in Paris, since the collection of
+statues was brought there, must have remarked the striking resemblance
+of Talma's countenance to the first busts of Nero; and this singular
+circumstance, along with the admirable manner in which he represents the
+impatient, headstrong, and profligate tyrant, rendered his acting in
+this character remarkably interesting. The opportunities Which he
+enjoyed of studying the character and the manner of Bonaparte,--who
+never forgot the assistance he received from Talma, when he first
+entered that city, where he was afterwards to govern with such unbounded
+power,--must have been present to his mind when he was preparing this
+difficult character; and if it is supposed that he must have been, even
+with this advantage, little able to imagine correctly the manner and
+deportment of so singular a character as the Roman Emperor, none will
+question the judgment, on this point, of that extraordinary person,
+under whose tyranny Talma so long lived, and who, as Talma has often
+declared, did actually suggest many improvements in the manner in which
+he had first acted the part.
+
+Mademoiselle Georges, the great tragic actress, was reckoned at one time
+the most beautiful woman in France. She is now grown very large, and her
+movements are, from that cause, stiff and constrained; but she is still
+a fine woman, and her countenance, though not very striking at first
+sight, is capable of wonderful variety and intensity of expression; her
+style of acting may be said to be intermediate between the matronly
+dignity and majestic deportment of Mrs Siddons, and the enchanting
+sweetness and feminine graces of Miss O'Neil. In the delineation of
+strong feelings and violent passions, of grief, madness, or despair, she
+will not suffer from comparison with either of these actresses; but we
+should doubt whether she can ever have inspired as much moral sympathy
+and admiration as the one has always commanded, by the elevation and
+grandeur of her representation of characters of exalted virtue, and the
+other daily wins, by the interesting tenderness of her manner, by the
+truth and energy of her impassioned scenes, and the overpowering pathos
+of her distress.
+
+The tragedy of OEdipe, by Voltaire, affords room for the display of the
+most characteristic qualities of Talma and Mademoiselle Georges; and
+when we saw them act OEdipus and Jocasta in this piece, we agreed that
+there were certainly no actor and actress, of equally transcendent
+merit, who act together in either of the London theatres. The distress
+of the play is of too horrible and repulsive a kind, we should conceive,
+to be ever admitted on the English stage; but it furnishes occasion for
+the display of consummate art in the imitation of the most terrible and
+overpowering emotions; and it is difficult to conceive a more powerful
+representation than they exhibited of the gloomy forebodings of
+suspicion, of the agonizing suspence of unsatisfied doubt, and the
+"sickening pang of hope deferred"--heightened, rather than diminished,
+by the consciousness of innocent intention, and the feeling of
+undeserved affliction, and giving way only to the certainty of
+irretrievable misery, and the phrenzy of utter despair.
+
+In concluding these remarks, upon a subject which interested us so much,
+we are anxious to offer some general reflections upon the character of
+the French stage, which were suggested by the observations we had an
+opportunity of making. It is far from being our intention, to enter into
+any discussion of the rules upon which the construction of their
+tragedies is supposed to depend, or to occupy the time of our readers,
+by useless remarks upon the sacrifices which it is said must be made, by
+strictly observing the _unities_ in dramatic compositions. Quite enough
+is known of the _defects_ of the French tragedy, and it is much to be
+regretted, that those who have had an opportunity of attending the
+French theatre, have generally carried their national prejudices along
+with them, and seem to have been more desirous to confirm the
+prepossessions they had previously acquired, than to form any fair and
+correct estimate of the merits of that drama. We are a little aware in
+general in this country, how much the composition of our own tragedies
+might be improved, and how much the effect of the talents which the
+stage displays might be increased, were we as candid in admitting the
+very great excellencies which the French stage possesses, as we have
+been desirous to discover its imperfections. Without presuming to
+attempt an examination of the French theatre, in the view of correcting
+what appear to us the errors in the public taste, we mean merely to
+state in what respects it appeared to us, that the impression left on
+the mind by the French tragedies is stronger and more lasting than any
+that we have experienced from attending our own theatres. Our conviction
+of the general superiority of the English stage has been already
+expressed, and therefore we hope we shall not be misapprehended in the
+object which we have in view in such remarks.
+
+1. In the first place, then, we would mention--what we hope is not
+necessary to illustrate at any length--the very great impression which
+must be made upon every thoughtful mind, by the unity of emotion which
+the French tragedies are fitted to produce. The effect which may result
+from this unity of emotion appears to excite much deeper interest, than
+can be produced by the mere exertion of the actors' power, when it is
+not uniformly directed to the expression of one general character. It is
+also worthy of consideration, whether the very important purposes to
+which the drama may be rendered subservient, may not be more easily
+accomplished, when the whole tendency of the composition, and the
+influence of acting, are employed in one general and consistent design.
+No such principle seems to have been kept in view in the composition of
+the greater part of the English tragedies. They resemble much, in truth,
+as we have before observed, the scene of human affairs, which the
+general aspect of the world presents,--full of every variety of
+incident, and depending upon the actions of a number of different
+characters. In the principal subject of the play, many seem to perform
+parts nearly of equal importance, and to be equally concerned in the
+issue of the story; each personage has his separate interest to claim
+our attention, and peculiar features of character, which require nice
+discrimination; and in general, no one character, or one subject, is
+sufficiently presented to view. The minds of the spectators, therefore,
+are oppressed and distracted by the variety of _feelings_ which are
+excited, and their interest interrupted and dissipated, in some degree,
+from the _variety of objects_ which claim it. The _general impression_,
+therefore, left upon the mind, is less pointed, less profound, and must
+produce less influence upon character, than when the feelings have been
+steadily and powerfully interested in the consequences of one marked
+and important event, or in the illustration of one great moral truth.
+
+2. We must be permitted to state, in the second place, that we think the
+French theatre is decidedly superior to our own, in the propriety and
+discrimination with which they keep out of view many of those
+exhibitions, which, on the English stage, are studiously brought forward
+with a view to effect: It would be altogether useless, to enter into any
+discussion of a question which has often been the subject of much idle
+controversy; nor should we be able, we know, to suggest any thing which
+could have any influence with those who think, that all the murders, and
+battles, and bustle, which occur in many of the grander scenes in the
+English tragedies, can increase the interest which such tragedies might
+produce, or contribute to the effect of theatrical illusion. We were not
+fortunate enough to see Talma in Ducis' play of Macbeth, where the
+difference between the French and English stage in this particular is
+very strongly illustrated; but from every thing we have, understood, of
+the wonderful impression which is produced, when he describes his
+interview with the weird sisters--the terrors which accompanied their
+appearance, and the feelings which their predictions awakened, we are
+persuaded that the effect must be much finer than any thing which can
+result from the feeble attempt to represent all this to the eye.
+Macbeth, however, without the witches, and all the clumsy machinery
+which is employed on the stage to carry through so impracticable a
+scene, would appear stripped of its principal beauties to the taste of a
+great part of an English audience; and yet we are perfectly convinced,
+that there is no one imperfection, in the plan or composition of the
+French tragedies, so deserving of censure, as the taste which can admit
+such representations on the stage. We allude, of course, entirely to the
+attempt to introduce this celebrated scene upon the stage; none can
+admire more than we do, the powerful and creative imagination which it
+displays.
+
+3. The next circumstance to which we allude, is that very remarkable
+one--of the dignity of sentiment, and elevation of thought, which
+uniformly characterise the compositions of the French stage. This is a
+perfection which, we believe, has never been denied by any one who is in
+any degree acquainted with these productions; and therefore we are
+anxious, as that very excellence has sometimes been thought to unfit
+them for actual representation, merely to state, from our own
+experience, the very great impression which such lofty and dignified
+sentiments, in the composition of the play, are fitted to produce. For
+ourselves we can say, that no dramatic representation on the English
+stage produced the same permanent effect with some of the greater
+compositions of the French tragedy; and we cannot but consider much of
+their influence to be owing to the sublime and elevating sentiments with
+which they abound. We could wish to see the tone of the tragedies which
+are _now_ presented for the English stage, animated by the same strain
+of dignified thought, and become more worthy of the approbation of a
+great, and enlightened, and virtuous people.
+
+Simple as these observations may appear, they yet suggest what we must
+consider as most important improvements in the composition and character
+of the English drama: The only tragedies which have been written for
+many years for our stage are, with a few exceptions, undeniably the
+feeblest productions in any branch of the national literature, and have
+in general carried, to the utmost extreme, the imperfections which
+existed in the works of those earlier writers whose genius and natural
+feeling they have never been able to equal. Whenever any change does
+occur in the character and tone of the tragedies of the English stage,
+we are persuaded that much will be gained by further acquaintance with
+the dramatic representations of the French theatre; and that the defects
+of our own theatre can only be avoided, by imitating some of the
+perfections of that drama, which we are accustomed at present so hastily
+to censure.
+
+We have only now to remark, that while the works of Corneille, of
+Racine, and Voltaire, must ever remain conspicuous in the French drama,
+we shall judge very erroneously of the present character of the French
+stage, if we are only acquainted with these compositions of earlier
+times. The consequences of the revolution have been felt in the tone of
+dramatic composition, as in every other branch of literature, and in
+every condition of society. The misfortunes which all classes of the
+people have sustained,--the anxiety, and suspence, and terror, which
+they so often felt, and the insecurity which so long seemed to attend
+every enjoyment of human life, accustomed them so much to scenes of deep
+interest, and to profound emotion, that it became necessary, in the
+theatre, to have recourse to more powerful means of exciting their
+compassion, and engaging their interest, than was always afforded by
+the tragedies of the old writers. The same change, then, which is
+observable in many other branches of the French literature of late
+years, seems to have taken place, to a considerable extent, in
+compositions for the stage; and from the serious and melancholy turn
+which was often given to the public mind, it has become requisite, in
+later writings, to introduce subjects of deeper interest, and more
+fitted to affect the imagination in moments of strong popular feeling,
+and of great national danger. Many of the reflections, therefore, which
+such circumstances suggested, have been introduced into the tragedies
+which have been composed during the very eventful period which has
+elapsed since the commencement of the revolution; and the authors have
+adapted, in a considerable degree, the interest, or the management of
+their plays, to those peculiar sentiments which the character of that
+period had given to the people. These sentiments may not always indicate
+very sound principle, or very elevated feeling, but, in the turn which
+has sometimes been given to the French plays, they are made to favour
+the introduction of much poetical beauty, and much dramatic interest. We
+have already mentioned, that there appears to be a vague, but general
+impression of the influence of _fatality_ upon human conduct, floating
+in the public mind; and though such a notion, probably, is seldom
+admitted in the shape of a distinct doctrine, many circumstances
+indicate, that among the body of the people, and among the army in
+particular, the influence of this superstition is very considerable. It
+is appealed to in many of those political writings which best indicate
+the feelings of those to whom they are addressed; and we have all
+remarked how much and how artfully their late ruler availed himself of
+this belief, to connect the ascendancy of his arms, and the prosperity
+of his dynasty, with the destiny of human affairs. On several very
+important occasions, the utmost possible interest has been given to the
+history of particular characters, in many recent tragedies, by employing
+this powerful feeling in the public mind; and it was very apparent, that
+the spectators took peculiar interest in the denouement of the plays in
+which this subject was introduced.
+
+In the works of Ducis, of Raynouard, and of several other recent
+writers, and in many of the plays formed from tragedies of the German
+school, very strong indications are to be found of the effect of the
+circumstances in which the people have been placed, in giving, in some
+respects, a new tone to dramatic compositions, and in calling forth
+productions of deeper interest, and capable of exciting more profound
+emotion, than could generally be produced by the works of the earlier
+periods of French literature.
+
+It is an animating proof of the ascendancy of virtuous feeling, and a
+striking illustration of the tendency of great assemblies of men, when
+not actuated by particular passions, to join in what is generous and
+elevated in human thought, that not only have the tragedies of the
+earlier writers continued to be universally admired, and constantly
+acted during the whole period of the revolution, but that the standard
+of sentiment has not been lowered in those productions which have been
+designed expressly for the French stage during that period, and that the
+dignity of ancient virtue, and the elevation of natural feeling, still
+ennoble the tone of French tragedy.
+
+* * *
+
+The French comedies and comic acting are not less characteristic of the
+people than their tragedies. They are a gay and lively, but not a
+humorous people. A Frenchman enters into amusements with an eagerness
+and relish, of which, in this country, we have no conception; all his
+cares and sorrows are forgotten; all his serious occupations are
+postponed; all his unruly passions are calmed;--he thinks neither of his
+individual misfortunes, nor of his national degradation; neither of the
+friends whom he has lost in the war, nor of the foreign soldiers whom it
+has placed at his elbow; his whole soul is absorbed in the game, in the
+dance, or in the _spectacle_. But his object is not laughter, or passive
+enjoyment, or relaxation; it is the excitation of his spirits, the
+occupation, and interest, and agitation of his mind, the varied
+gratification of his senses, the exercise of his fancy, the display of
+his wit, and taste, and politeness.
+
+The exhibitions at the theatres are accommodated to this taste. With the
+exception of some of Moliere's works, such as the Bourgeois Gentilhomme,
+and M. de Pourceaugnac, (which are seldom acted, at least at the Theatre
+Français), there are hardly any French comedies which are characterised
+by what we call humour,--which have for their main object the
+representation of palpably ludicrous peculiarities of character and
+manner. You never hear, in a French theatre, the same loud
+uncontrollable bursts of laughter, which are so often excited by
+representations of this kind in London. There are no such actors, at the
+principal theatres, as Matthews, or Liston, or Bannister, or Munden, or
+Emery, whose principal merit lies in mimicry and buffoonery. There are
+hardly any entertainments corresponding in character to our farces; the
+after-pieces are short comedies, and characters in low life are
+introduced into them, not as objects of derision, but of interest and
+sympathy.
+
+On the other hand, operas and genteel comedies, which are esteemed only
+by the higher ranks in England, are a favourite amusement of all ranks
+in France. The qualities which are most highly prized in the comedies,
+are, interest and variety of incident and situation, wit and liveliness
+of dialogue, and a certain elevation and elegance of character.
+
+Regarding the character of the French tragedies, there will always be
+much difference of opinion; and many, probably, of those who have had
+the best opportunities of studying them, as performed upon the stage at
+Paris, may yet retain nearly the same judgment concerning them which
+they formed in reading them in the closet. And we are willing to admit,
+that admirable as they appear to us in many respects, they are not well
+adapted to become popular in this country. But the excellencies and
+unrivalled elegance of the French comedy, have been at all times
+universally admitted, while there is this great distinction between
+them and the tragedies of the French school, that however great the
+pleasure we may take in reading them, no one ever saw them well
+performed, without acknowledging, that until then, he had no conception
+of the astonishing field which they afford for the display of the
+actor's power, or of the innumerable charms which they possess as
+dramatic compositions.
+
+Everything that ever was amiable and engaging in the character of the
+French people; the elegance and _bon-hommie_ of their manners, which
+served as a passport to the French in every country in Europe, and
+softened the feelings of national resentment with which their ambition
+and their arrogance to other nations had taught many to regard them as a
+people; their well-known superiority to other nations in those
+circumstances, which render them agreeable and pleasant in society, in
+their constant attention and accommodation to the wishes and pursuits of
+others, in that anxiety to please, to entertain, and to promote the
+interests and happiness of others, which costs so little to those who
+are never subject to that unhappy irregularity of temper and spirit, so
+visible to all foreigners in the character of the English people, and
+which never fails to secure esteem, and to interest the affections,
+while superior worth, less happily gifted for the common purposes and
+intercourse of life, may be regarded with no warmer feeling than that of
+distant respect; the _loyauté_ and frankness once so closely associated
+with the history and character of the French people; the manliness which
+taught them at once to admit and to repair the wrongs which their
+impetuosity of spirit, or their harshness of feeling, might have
+occasioned, and the gallantry with which they were wont to defend with
+their sword what their honour bound them to maintain; and above all,
+that delightful and touching _abandon_ of feeling, which seemed the
+result of genuine simplicity, and which appeared to know no reserve,
+only because it knew no guilt; all these beautiful and interesting
+traits, which adorned the character of former and of later days, are
+still preserved in the comedies of their greater writers; the purity of
+former character seems to animate the pages which they write, and the
+spirit of earlier times seems yet to retain its ascendancy, when they
+wish to pourtray the manners of the present day.
+
+In the degradation of the present period, they delight to recall the
+splendour and the renown of the period that is past; and, by preserving
+in their works the character which adorned the French people before the
+profligacy and the insidious policy of a corrupt court disarmed the
+nation of its virtue, to reconcile it to slavery, they attempt to awaken
+a nobler spirit, and lay the foundation of future grandeur. Whatever has
+delighted us in reading the history of the earlier periods of the French
+monarchy, when the elevation of chivalrous feeling, and the
+disinterestedness of simple manners, distinguished the French people,
+and when the character of the great Henry displayed, in a more
+conspicuous station, the virtues which ennobled the duties of private
+life, is yet to be found in their best comedies. Among the many
+thousands who crowd to their numerous theatres, there are many, one
+would hope, who can feel the sad contrast which the last century of
+French history, "fertile only in crime," presents to the honour of
+former times, and in whom may be reviving that lofty and generous spirit
+which may yet redeem the character they have lost.
+
+It seems not a little singular, that this taste in comedy should have
+survived all the disorders of the revolution, and remained unchanged
+amid the general diffusion of military habits and manners. This may be
+partly explained by the circumstance, that the judges by whom theatrical
+exhibitions are mainly regulated, are stationary at Paris, while the
+men, whose actions have stamped the French character of the present day,
+have been dispersed over the world. But it must certainly be admitted,
+that the _taste_ of the French has not undergone an alteration
+corresponding with that which is so obvious in their _manners_; and has
+not degenerated to the degree that might have been expected, from the
+diffusion of revolutionary ideas and licentious habits. The Theatre
+Français affords perhaps the best specimen that now remains of the style
+of conversation, and manners, and costume, of the old school of French
+politeness.
+
+For the representation of pieces bearing the general character which we
+have described, the French are certainly better fitted than any other
+people,--their native gaiety and sprightliness of disposition,--the
+polish which their manners so readily acquire,--their irrepressible
+confidence and self-conceit,--their love of shewing off, and attracting
+attention, give really a stage effect to many of their serious actions,
+and to almost all their trifling conversation and amusements. Hence, a
+stranger is particularly struck with the uniform excellence of the comic
+acting on the French stage; all the inferior parts ate sustained with
+spirit, and originality, and discriminating judgment; all the actors are
+at their ease, and a regular genteel comedy is as well acted
+throughout, as a farce is on the London stage.
+
+The greatest comic actor at the Theatre Français is Fleury. He is an
+actor completely fitted for the French style of comedy. He gives you the
+idea of a perfect gentleman, with much wit and liveliness, and
+consummate confidence and self-possession; who delivers himself with
+inimitable archness and pleasantry, but without the least exaggeration
+or buffoonery; who has too high an opinion of himself and his powers, to
+descend to broad jokes or allusions belonging to the lower kinds of
+humour. Those who have an accurate recollection of the admirable acting
+of Irish Johnstone, in the characters of Major O'Flaherty, or Sir Lucius
+O'Trigger, will have a better conception, than any description of ours
+can convey, of the style of acting in which Fleury so eminently excels.
+
+Whatever may be thought of the other performers, none can see without
+pleasure the performances of that celebrated actress, who has so long
+been the ornament of the national theatre, and to whom the support of
+their comedy has been so long entrusted. During the greatest period of
+the revolution, Mademoiselle Mars has been the favourite and the
+delight of the people of Paris, and there is perhaps no feeling among
+them stronger, or more national, than the pride which they take in her
+incomparable acting; all the grace, and elegance, and genuine feeling
+which she so beautifully displays, they consider as belonging to her
+only because she is a French woman; and nothing would ever convince them
+that, had she been born in any other country, it would have been
+possible that she should possess half the perfections which they now
+admire in her.
+
+Mademoiselle Mars is probably as perfect an actress in comedy as any
+that ever appeared on any stage. She has united every advantage of
+countenance, and voice, and figure, which it is possible to conceive,
+and no one can ever have witnessed her incomparable acting, without
+feeling that the imagination can suggest nothing more completely
+lovely--more graceful, or more natural and touching than her
+representation of character. Mademoiselle Mars has been most exquisitely
+beautiful; and though the period is past when that beauty had all the
+brilliancy and freshness of youth, time appears hardly to have dared to
+lay his chilling hand on that lovely countenance, and she still acts
+characters which require all the naïveté, and gaiety, and tenderness of
+youthful feeling, with every appearance of the spring of human life. It
+is remarked by Cibber, that a woman has hardly time to become a perfect
+actress, during the continuance of her personal attractions. If there
+ever was an exception to this remark, Mademoiselle Mars is one. She was
+an admired actress, we were assured, before the revolution; yet she has
+still, at least on the stage, a light elegant figure, and a countenance
+of youthful animation and beauty, while long experience has given that
+polish and perfection to her acting, which can be derived from no other
+source.
+
+It were in vain to attempt describing the innumerable excellencies which
+render her acting so perfectly enchanting;--the admirable manner in
+which the French comedies are performed is so particular to the stage of
+that country, that it would be quite fruitless to attempt to describe a
+style of acting unknown to the people of Britain; and of that style
+Mademoiselle Mars is the model. Every thing that can result from the
+truest elegance and gracefulness of manners--from the most genuine and
+lively _abandon_ of feeling,--from the most winning sweetness of
+expression, and the greatest imaginable gaiety and benevolence,
+displayed in one of the most beautiful women ever seen, and endowed with
+the most delightful and melodious voice, is united in Mademoiselle
+Mars; and all words were in vain, which would pretend to describe the
+bright and glittering vision which captivates the imagination. It is
+impossible to conceive any thing more perfect as a specimen of art, or
+more beautiful as an imitation of nature, than her representation of the
+kind of heroine most commonly to be found in a French comedy; lively and
+playful, yet elegant and graceful; entering with ardour into amusements,
+yet capable of deep feeling and serious reflection: fond of admiration
+and flattery, yet innocent and modest; full of petty artifice and
+coquetry, yet natural and unaffected in affairs of importance;
+capricious and giddy in appearance, but warm-hearted and affectionate in
+reality. It is a character to which there is a kind of approximation
+among many French women; and if it were as well supported by them in
+real life, as by her on the stage, it would be difficult even for French
+vanity to describe the fascination of their manner, in terms of
+admiration which would not command general assent. There is much
+variety, it must be added, in her powers. On one occasion, we saw her
+act Henriette in Les Femmes Savantes of Moliere, and Catau La Partie de
+Chasse de Henri IV, an£ it was difficult to say whether most to admire
+the wit, and elegance, and police raillery of the woman of fashion, or
+the innocent gaiety, and interesting naïveté of the simple peasant girl.
+
+There is no actress at present on the English stage of equal eminence in
+a similar line of parts. The exhibition which can best convey to an
+English reader some slight notion of her enchanting acting, is the
+manner in which Miss O'Neil performs the scene in Juliet with the old
+nurse; because it is probably exactly the manner in which Mademoiselle
+Mars would perform that scene, but cannot afford any conception of her
+excellence in scenes of higher interest and greater feeling. Mrs Jordan
+may have equalled her in gaiety, and probably excelled her in humorous
+expression, but we suspect she must always have been deficient in
+elegance and refinement. The actress who, we think, comes nearest to her
+in genteel comedy, is Mrs Henry Siddons, in her beautiful representation
+of such parts as Beatrice or Viola; but she has not the same appearance
+of natural light-hearted buoyancy and playfulness of disposition; you
+see occasional transient indications of a serious thoughtful turn of
+mind, which assumes gaiety and cheerfulness, rather than passes
+naturally into it; which you admire, because it places the actress in a
+more amiable light, but which takes off from the fidelity and perfection
+of her art.
+
+Wherever Mademoiselle Mars has acted, in every part of France, the
+enthusiasm which she inspires, and the astonishing interest which they
+take in her acting, is such as could be felt only in France. We were
+fortunately in Lyons when she came there, on leaving Paris during the
+course of last summer; and during the few days we were there, nothing
+appeared to be thought of but the merits of this unrivalled actress. The
+interest which the recent visit of _Madame_ had created, was altogether
+lost in the delight which the performance of Mademoiselle Mars had
+occasioned: She was crowned publicly in the theatre with a garland of
+flowers, and a fete was celebrated in honour of her by the public bodies
+and authorities of the town.
+
+* * *
+
+Corresponding to the Opera House in London, there are three theatres in
+Paris; the Odeon, the Opera Comique, and the Academie de Musique. At the
+first of these there is an immense company of musicians, of all kinds;
+and Italian Operas are admirably performed. It is the handsomest, and
+perhaps the most genteelly attended of any of the Parisian theatres.
+The music here, as well as the musicians, are all Italian; and there
+can certainly be no comparison between it and the French, which is
+generally feeble and insipid in pathetic expression, and extravagant and
+bombastic in all attempts at grandeur. The first singer at the Odeon was
+Madame Sessi, who has since been in London; but Madame Morelli, with a
+voice somewhat inferior in power, appeared to us a more elegant actress.
+The performance of Girard on the flute was wonderful, and met with
+extravagant applause, but it was somewhat too laboured and artificial
+for our untutored ears:
+
+The Opera Comique is confined almost exclusively to the sort of
+entertainment which the name expresses: the scenes are generally laid in
+the country, and the characters introduced are of the lower orders: the
+pieces commonly represented belong to the same class, therefore, as the
+English operas, Love in a Village, Rosina, &c. but the dialogue is in
+general more animated, less vulgar in the lower parts, and less
+sentimental in the higher. The number of performers at this theatre is
+not very great; but there are some good singers and dancers, and the
+acting is almost uniformly excellent. Indeed, the French character is
+peculiarly well fitted for assuming the gay and lively tone that
+pervades their _opera buffa_, which may be characterised as amusing and
+interesting in general, rather than comic; as full of spirit and
+vivacity, rather than of humour. Occasionally, however, characters and
+incidents of true humour are introduced; but these are in general
+considered as belonging to a lower species of amusement; and are to be
+found in higher perfection, we believe, in some of the inferior
+theatres, particularly the Theatre des Varietés.
+
+The acting at the Opera Comique appeared to us deserving of the same
+encomiums with the comic acting at the Theatre Français: every part is
+well supported, not with the elegance that characterises the latter
+theatre, but with perfect adaptation to the situation of the characters.
+A Mademoiselle Regnaud, of this theatre, acts with admirable liveliness
+and spirit. Her quarrel and reconciliation with her lover, in "Le
+Nouveau Seigneur du Village," appeared to us a chef d'oeuvre of the light
+and pleasing style of acting, which suits the character of the French
+comic opera.
+
+The Academie de Musique, (which is celebrated for dancers, not for
+musicians), is on a very different plan from the opera in London. The
+performers being in part supported by government, the prices of
+admission are made very low; and the company, particularly in the
+parterre, or pit, is therefore of a much lower class than in London,
+though perfect decorum is, as usual, uniformly observed. The
+performances at this theatre are, we think, decidedly superior to those
+in the London opera. This superiority consists partly in the pre-eminent
+merits of the first-rate dancers; but chiefly in the uniform excellence
+of the vast number of inferior performers, the beauty of the scenery,
+and the complete knowledge of stage effect, which is displayed in all
+the arrangements of the representations.
+
+We believe there are not at present, on the London stage, any dancers of
+equal merit with Madame Gardel, or Mademoiselle Bigottini. The former of
+these is said to be 45 years of age, and has long been reckoned the best
+figuranté on this stage. Her face is not handsome, but her figure is
+admirably formed for the display of her art, of which she is probably
+the most perfect mistress to be found in Europe. The latter, an Italian
+by birth, is much younger, and if she does not yet quite equal her rival
+in artificial accomplishments, she at least attracts more admirers by
+her youth and beauty; by the exquisite symmetry of her form, and the
+natural grace and elegance of her movements. The one of these is
+certainly the first dancer, and the other is perhaps the most beautiful
+woman in Paris.
+
+But the same unfortunate peculiarity of taste which we formerly noticed
+in the painting and in the gardening of the French, extends to their
+opera dancing; indeed it may be said to be the worst feature of their
+general taste. They are too fond of the exhibition of art, and too
+regardless of the object, to which art should be made subservient.
+Dancing should never be considered as a mere display of agility and
+muscular power. It is then degraded to a level with Harlequin's tricks,
+wrestling, tumbling, or such other fashionable entertainments. The main
+object of the art unquestionably is, to display in full perfection the
+beauty and grace of the human form and movements. In so far as perfect
+command of the limbs is necessary, or may be made subservient to this
+object, it cannot be too much esteemed; but when you pass this limit, it
+not only ceases to be pleasing, but often becomes positively offensive.
+Many of the _pirouettes_, and other difficult movements, which are
+introduced into the _pas seuls, pas de deux_, &c. in which the great
+dancers display their whole powers, however wonderful as specimens of
+art, are certainly any thing but elegant or graceful. The applause in
+the French opera seemed to us to be in direct proportion to the
+difficulty, and to bear no relation whatever to the beauty of the
+performances. A Frenchman regards, with perfect indifference, dances
+which, to a stranger at least, appear performed with inimitable grace,
+because they are only common dances, admirably well executed; but when
+one of the male performers, after spinning about for a long time, with
+wonderful velocity, arrests himself suddenly, and stands immoveable on
+one foot; or when one of the females wheels round on the toes of one
+foot, holding her other limb nearly in a horizontal position--he breaks
+out into extravagant exclamations of astonishment and delight: "Quel a
+plomb! Ah diable! Sacre Dieu!" &c.
+
+But although the principal dances at the Opera, and those on which the
+French chiefly pride themselves, are much injured, in point of beauty,
+by this artificial taste, the execution of the less laboured parts of
+these dances, and of nearly the whole of their common national dances,
+is quite free from this defect, and is, we should conceive, the most
+beautiful exhibition of the kind that is any where to be seen. It is
+only in a city where amusements of all kinds are sought for, not merely
+by way of relaxation, but as matters of serious interest and national
+concern, and where dancing, in particular, is an object of universal and
+passionate admiration, that such numbers of first-rate dancers can be
+found, as perform constantly at the Academie de Musique. The whole
+strength of the company there, which often appeared on the stage at the
+time we speak of, was certainly not less than 150; and there were hardly
+any of these whose performance was not highly pleasing, and did not
+present the appearance of animation and interest in the parts assigned
+them.
+
+Many of the serious operas performed here are exceedingly beautiful;
+they are got up, not perhaps at more expense, nor with more
+magnificence, than the spectacles in London, but certainly with more
+taste and knowledge of stage effect. Tie scenery is beautifully painted,
+and is disposed upon the stage with more variety, and in such a manner
+as to form a more complete illusion, than on any other stage we have
+seen. The music and singing are certainly inferior to what is heard at
+the Odeon, but the acting, where it is not injured by the effect of the
+recitative, is very generally excellent; and the number and variety of
+dances introduced, afford opportunities of displaying all the
+attractions of this theatre.
+
+The pantomimes are uniformly executed with inimitable grace and effect.
+We were particularly pleased with that called L'Enfant Prodigue, in
+which the powers and graces of Mademoiselle Bigottini are displayed to
+all possible advantage. One of the most splendid of the serious operas,
+is that entitled Le Caravansera de Cairo, the scenery of which was
+painted in Egypt, by one of the artists who accompanied Napoleon
+thither, and is beyond comparison the most highly finished and beautiful
+that we have ever seen, and gives an idea of the aspect of that country,
+which no other work of art could convey. Another opera, which attracted
+our attention, was called "Ossian, ou les Bardes." One of the scenes,
+where the heroes and heroines of departed times are seen seated on the
+clouds, displayed a degree of magnificence which made it a fit
+representation of "the dream of Ossian." Some of the Highland scenery in
+this opera was really like nature; and the dresses, particularly the
+cambric and vandyked kilts, bore some distant analogy to the real
+costume of the Highlanders; and although we could not gratify the
+Parisians who sat by us, by admitting the resemblance of the female
+figures, who skipped about the stage with single muslin petticoats, and
+pink and white kid slippers, to the "Montagnardes Ecossaises _c'est a
+dire demi-sauvages_," whom they were intended to represent, we at least
+flattered their vanity, by expressing our wish that the latter had
+resembled the former.
+
+But the most beautiful of all the exhibitions at the Academie de
+Musique, are the ballets which represent pastoral scenes and rural
+fetes, such as Colinette a la Cour, L'Epreuve Villageoise, &c. It is
+singular, that in a city, the inhabitants of which have so entire a
+contempt for rural enjoyments, pieces of this kind should form so
+favourite a theatrical entertainment; but it must be confessed, that
+such scenes as form the subject of these ballets, occur but seldom in
+the course of a country life, and never in the degree of perfection in
+which they are represented in Paris. The union of rustic simplicity and
+innocence, with the polish and refinement which are acquired by
+intercourse with the world, may be conceived by the help of these
+exhibitions, but can hardly be witnessed in real life. The illusion,
+however, when such scenes are exhibited, is exceedingly pleasing; and no
+where certainly is this illusion so perfect as in the Academie de
+Musique, where the charming scenery, the enlivening music, the number
+and variety of characters, which are supported with life and spirit, the
+beauty of the female performers, and the graceful movements, and lively
+animated air of all;--if they do not recall to the spectator any thing
+which he has really witnessed, seem to transport him into the more
+delightful regions in which his fancy has occasionally wandered, and to
+realize for a moment to him, those fairy scenes to which his youthful
+imagination had been familiarized, by the beautiful fictions of poetry
+or romance.
+
+* * *
+
+The Parisian theatres are at all times sources of much amusement and
+delight; but at the time of which we speak, they were doubly
+interesting, as affording opportunities of seeing the most distinguished
+characters of this eventful age; and as furnishing occasional strong
+indications of the state of popular feeling in France. The interest of
+occurrences of this last kind is now gone by, and it is almost
+unnecessary for us to bear testimony to the strong party that uniformly
+manifested itself when any sentiment was uttered expressive of a wish
+for war, of admiration of martial achievements, and of indignation at
+foreign influence, or domestic perfidy, (under which head the conduct of
+Talleyrand and of Marmont was included); and more especially, when the
+success, and glory, and _eternal, immutable, untarnished_ honour of
+France, were the theme of declamation. The applause at passages of this
+last description seemed sometimes ludicrous enough, when the theatres
+were guarded by Russian grenadiers, and nearly half filled with allied
+officers, loaded with honours which had been won in combating the French
+armies.
+
+The majority of the audience, however, appeared always delighted at the
+change of government, and in the opera in particular, the first time
+that the King appeared, the expression of loyalty was long, reiterated,
+and enthusiastic, far beyond our most sanguine anticipations. It would
+have been absurd to judge of the real feelings of the majority of the
+Parisians, still more of the nation at large, from this scene; and it
+was certainly not to be wished, that a blind and devoted loyalty to one
+sovereign should take the place of infatuated attachment to another; yet
+it was impossible not to sympathize with the joy of people who had been
+agitated, during the best part of their lives, by political convulsions,
+or oppressed by military tyranny, but who fancied themselves at length
+relieved from both; and who connected the hope of spending the
+remainder of their days in tranquillity and peace, with the
+recollections which they had received from their fathers, of the
+happiness and prosperity of their country under the long line of its
+ancient kings. It was impossible to hear the national air of "Vive Henri
+Quatre," and the enthusiastic acclamations which accompanied it, without
+entering for the moment into the feeling of unhesitating attachment, and
+unqualified loyalty, which has so long prevailed in most countries of
+the world, but which the citizens of a free country should indulge only
+when it has been deserved by long experience and tried virtue.
+
+It was with different, but not less interesting feelings, that we
+listened to the same tune from the splendid bands of the Russian and
+Prussian guards, as they passed along the Boulevards; on their return to
+their own countries; It was a grand and moving spectacle of political
+virtue, to see the armies which had been arrayed against France,
+striving to do honour to the government which she had assumed:--instead
+of breathing curses, or committing outrages on the great and guilty
+city, which had provoked all their vengeance, to see them march out of
+the gates of Paris with the regularity of the strictest military
+discipline, to the sound of the grand national air, which spoke "peace
+to her walls, and prosperity to her palaces,"--leaving, as it were, a
+blessing on the capital which they had conquered and forgiven: It was a
+scene that left an impression on the mind worthy of the troops who had
+bravely and successfully opposed the domineering power of France,--who
+had struggled with it when it was strongest, and "ruled it when 'twas
+wildest," but who spared it when it was fallen;--who forgot their wrongs
+when it was in their power to revenge them;--who cast the laurels from
+their brows, as they passed before the rightful monarch of France, and
+honoured him as the representative of a great and gallant people, long
+beguiled by ambition, and abused by tyranny, but now acknowledging their
+errors, and professing moderation and repentance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH ARMY AND IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+IT is certainly a mistake to suppose, that the military power of France
+was first created by Napoleon, or that military habits were actually
+forced on the people, with the view of aiding his ambitious projects.
+The French have a restless, aspiring, enterprising spirit, not
+accompanied, as in England, by a feeling of individual importance, and a
+desire of individual independence, but modified by habits of submission
+to arbitrary power, and fitted, by the influence of despotic government,
+for the subordination of military discipline. Add to this, the
+encouragement which was held out by the rapid promotion of soldiers
+during the wars of the revolution, when the highest military offices
+were not only open to the attainment, but were generally appropriated to
+the claims of men who rose from the ranks; and the general
+dissemination, at that period, of an unbounded desire for violence and
+rapine: And it will probably be allowed, that the spirit of the French
+nation, at the time when he came to the head of it, was truly and almost
+exclusively military. He was himself a great soldier; he rose to the
+supreme government of a great military people, and he availed himself of
+their habits and principles to gratify his ambition, and extend his
+fame; but he ought not to be charged with having created the spirit,
+which in fact created him; a spirit so powerful, and so extensively
+diffused, that in comparison with it, even his efforts might be said to
+be "dashing with his oar to hasten the cataract;" to be "waving with his
+fan to give speed to the wind." The favourite saying of Napoleon, "Every
+Frenchman is a soldier, and as such, at the disposal of the Emperor,"
+expresses a principle which was not merely enforced by arbitrary power,
+but engrafted on the character and habits of the French people.
+
+The French are certainly admirably fitted for becoming soldiers: they
+have a restless activity, which surmounts difficulties, a buoyancy and
+elasticity of disposition, which rises superior to hardships, and
+calamities, and privations, not with patient fortitude, but with ease
+and cheerfulness. A Frenchman does not regard war, merely as the serious
+struggle in which his patriotism and valour are to be tried; he loves it
+for its own sake, for the interest and agitation it gives to his mind;
+it is his "game,--his gain,--his glory,--his delight." Other nations of
+Europe have become military, in consequence of threats or injuries, of
+the dread of hostile invasion, of the presence of foreign armies, or the
+galling influence of foreign power; but if the origin of the French
+military spirit may be traced to similar sources, it must at least be
+allowed, that the effect has been out of all proportion to the cause.
+
+It is probable, however, that the effervescence of military ideas and
+feelings, which arose out of the revolution, would have gradually
+subsided, had it not been for the fostering influence of the imperial
+government. The turbulent and irregular energies of a great people let
+loose from former bonds, received a fixed direction, and were devoted to
+views of military ascendancy and national aggrandizement under Napoleon.
+The continued gratification of the French vanity, by the fame of
+victories and the conquest of nations, completed the effect on the
+manner and habits of the people, which the events of the revolution had
+begun. Napoleon well knew, that in flattering this ruling propensity, he
+took the whole French nation on their weak side, and he had some reason
+for saying, that their thirst for martial glory and political influence
+ought to be a sufficient apology to them for all the wars into which he
+plunged them.
+
+It is impossible to spend even a few days in France without seeing
+strong indications of the prevailing love of military occupations, and
+admiration of military merit. The common peasants in the fields shew, by
+their conversation, that they are deeply interested in the glory of the
+French arms, and competent to discuss the manner in which they are
+conducted. In the parts of the country which had been the seat of war,
+we found them always able to give a good general description of the
+military events that had taken place; and when due allowance was made
+for their invariable exaggeration of the number of the allied troops,
+and concealment of that of the French, these accounts, as far as we
+could judge by comparing them with the official details, and with the
+information of officers who had borne a part in the campaign, were
+tolerably correct. The fluency with which they talked of military
+operations, of occupying positions, cutting off retreats, defiling over
+bridges, debouching from woods, advancing and retreating, marching and
+bivouacking, shewed the habitual current of their thoughts; and they
+were always more willing to enter on the details of such operations,
+than to enumerate their own losses, or dwell on their individual
+sufferings.
+
+A similar eagerness to enter into conversation on military subjects, was
+observable in almost all Frenchmen of the lower orders, with whom we had
+any dealings. Our landlord at Paris, a quiet sickly man, who had no
+connection with the army, and who had little to say for himself on most
+subjects, displayed a marvellous fluency on military tactics; and seemed
+to think that no time was lost which was employed in haranguing to us on
+the glory and honour of the French army, and impressing on our minds its
+superiority to the allies.
+
+Indeed, the whole French nation certainly take a pride in the deeds of
+their brethren in arms, which absorbs almost all other feelings; and
+which is the more singular, as it does not appear to us to be connected
+with strong or general affection or gratitude for any particular
+individual. It was not the fame of any one General but the general
+honour of the French arms, about which they seemed anxious. We never met
+with a Frenchman, of any rank, or of any political persuasion, who
+considered the French army as fairly overcome in the campaign of 1814;
+and the shifts and contrivances by which they explained all the events
+of the campaign, without having recourse to that supposition, were
+wonderfully ingenious. The best informed Frenchmen whom we met in Paris,
+even those who did not join in the popular cry of treason and corruption
+against Marmont, regarded the terms granted by Alexander to their city,
+as a measure of policy rather than of magnanimity. They uniformly
+maintained, that the possession of the heights of Belleville and
+Montmartre did not secure the command of Paris: that if Marmont had
+chosen, he might have defended the town after he had lost these
+positions; and that, if the Russians had attempted to take the town by
+force, they might have succeeded, but would have lost half their army.
+Indeed, so confidently were these propositions maintained by all the
+best informed Frenchmen, civil or military, royalist of imperialist,
+whom we met, that we were at a loss whether to give credit to the
+statement uniformly given us by the allied officers, that the town was
+completely commanded by those heights, and might have been burnt and
+destroyed, without farther risk on the part of the assailants, after
+they were occupied. The English officers, with whom we had an
+opportunity of conversing on this subject, seemed divided in opinion
+regarding it; and we should have hesitated to which party to yield our
+belief, had not the conduct of Napoleon and his officers in the campaign
+of the present year, the extraordinary precautions which they took to
+prevent access to the positions in question, by laying the adjacent
+country under water, and fortifying the heights themselves, clearly
+shewn the importance, in a military point of view, which is really
+attached to them.
+
+The credulity of the French, in matters connected with the operations of
+their armies, often astonished us. It appeared to arise, partly from the
+scarcity of information in the country; from their having no means of
+confirming, correcting, or disproving the exaggerated and garbled
+statements which were laid before them; and partly from their national
+vanity, which disposed them to yield a very easy assent to every thing
+that exalted their national character. In no other country, we should
+conceive, would such extravagant and manifestly exaggerated statements
+be swallowed, as the French soldiers are continually in the habit of
+dispersing among their countrymen. From the style of the conversation
+which we were accustomed to hear at _caffés_ and _tables d'hôte_, we
+should conceive, that the French bulletins, which appeared to us such
+models of gasconade, were admirably well fitted, not merely to please
+the taste, but even to regulate the belief, or at least the professions
+of belief, of the majority of French politicians, with regard to the
+events they commemorate.
+
+The general interest of a nation in the deeds and honours of its army,
+is the best possible security for its general conduct; and it must be
+admitted, that in those qualities which are chiefly valued by the French
+nation, the French army was never surpassed; while it is equally
+obvious, that both the army and the people have at present little regard
+for some of the finest virtues which can adorn the character of
+soldiers.
+
+The grand characteristic of the French army, on which both the soldiers
+and the people pride themselves, is what was long ago ably pointed out
+by the author of the "Caractere des Armées Europeennes Actuelles"--the
+individual intelligence and activity of the soldiers. They were taken
+at that early age, when the influence of previous habit is small, and
+when the character is easily moulded into any form that is wished; they
+were accustomed to pride themselves on no qualities, but those which are
+serviceable against their enemies, and they had before them the most
+animating prospect of rewards and promotion, if their conduct was
+distinguished. Under these circumstances, the native vigour, and
+activity, and acuteness of their minds, took the very direction which
+was likely, not merely to make them good soldiers, but to fit them for
+becoming great officers; and this ultimate destination of his
+experience, and ability, and valour, has a very manifest effect on the
+mind of the French soldier. We hardly ever spoke to one of them, of any
+rank, about any of the battles in which he had been engaged, without
+observing, that he had in his head a general plan of the action, which
+he always delivered to us with perfect fluency, in the technical
+language of war, and with quite as much exaggeration as was necessary
+for his purpose. What he wanted in correct information, he would
+assuredly make up with lies, but he would seldom fail to give a general
+consistent idea of the affair; and it was obvious, that the manoeuvres
+of the armies, and the conduct of the generals, on both sides, had
+occupied as much of his consideration and reflection, as his own
+individual dangers and adventures.
+
+When we afterwards entered into conversation with some English private
+soldiers, at Brussels and Antwerp, concerning the actions they had seen,
+we perceived a very marked difference. They were very ready to enter
+into details concerning all that they had themselves witnessed, and very
+anxious to be perfectly correct in their statements; but they did not
+appear ever to have troubled their heads about the general plan of the
+actions. They had abundance of technical phrases concerning their own
+departments of the service; but very few words relative to the
+manoeuvring of large bodies of men. Their rule seemed to be, to do their
+own duty, and let their officers do theirs; the principle of the
+division of labour seemed to prevail in military, as well as in civil
+affairs, much more extensively in England than in France.
+
+The soldiers of the French imperial guard, in particular, are remarkably
+intelligent, and in general very communicative. We entered into
+conversation with some of these men at La Fere, and from one of them,
+who had been in the great battle at Laon, we had fully as distinct an
+account of that action as we are able to collect, the next day, from
+several officers who accompanied us from St Quentin to Cambray, and who
+had likewise been engaged in it. When we asked him the numbers of the
+two armies on that day, he replied without the least hesitation, that
+the allied army was 100,000 and the French 30,000.--Another of these men
+had been at Salamanca, and after we had granted his fundamental
+assumption, that the English army there was 120,000 strong, and the
+French 40,000, he proceeded to give us a very good account of the
+battle.
+
+These men, as well as almost all the French officers and soldiers with
+whom we had opportunities at different times of conversing, gave their
+opinions of the allied armies without any reserve, and with considerable
+discrimination. Of the Russians and Prussians they said, "Ils savent
+bien faire la guerre; ils sont de bons soldats;" but of the common
+soldiers of these services in particular, they said, "Ils sont tres
+forts, et durs comme l'ame du diable--mais ils sont des veritables
+betes; ils n'ont point d'intelligence. La puissance de l'armée
+Française," they added, with an air of true French gasconade, "est dans
+l'intelligence des soldats."--Of the Austrians, they said, "Ils brillent
+dans leur cavalerie, mais pour leur infanterie, elle ne vaut rien."
+
+From these soldiers we could extract no more particular character of the
+English troops, than "Ils se battent bien," But it is doing no more than
+justice to the French officers, even such as were decidedly imperialist,
+who conversed with us at Paris, and in different parts of the country,
+to acknowledge that they uniformly spoke in the highest terms of the
+conduct of the English troops. The expression which they very commonly
+used, in speaking of the manner in which the English carried on the war
+in Spain, and in France, was, "loyauté." "Les Russes, et les Prussiens,"
+they said, "sont des grands et beauxhommes, mais ils n'ont pas le coeur
+ou la loyauté des Anglais. Les Anglais sont la nation du monde qui font
+la guerre avec le plus de loyauté," &c. This referred partly to their
+valour in the field, and partly to their humane treatment of prisoners
+and wounded; and partly also to their honourable conduct in France,
+where they preserved the strictest discipline, and paid for every thing
+they took. Of the behaviour of the English army in France, they always
+spoke as excellent:--"digne de leur civilization."
+
+A French officer who introduced himself to us one night in a box at the
+opera, expressing his high respect for the English, against whom, he
+said, he had the honour to fight for six years in Spain, described the
+steadiness and determination of the English infantry in attacking the
+heights on which the French army was posted at Salamanca, in terms of
+enthusiastic admiration. Another who had been in the battle of Toulouse,
+extolled the conduct of the Highland regiments in words highly
+expressive of
+
+    "The stern joy which warriors feel,
+    In foemen worthy of their steel."
+
+"Il y a quelques regimens des Ecossais sans culottes," said he, "dans
+l'armée de Wellington, qui se battent joliment." He then described the
+conduct of one regiment in particular, (probably the 42d or 79th), who
+attacked a redoubt defended with cannon, and marched up to it in perfect
+order; never taking the muskets from their shoulders, till they were on
+the parapet: "Si tranquillement,--sacre Dieu! c'etoit superbe."
+
+Of the military talents of the Duke of Wellington they spoke also with
+much respect, though generally with strong indications of jealousy. They
+were often very ingenious in devising means of explaining his
+victories, without compromising, as they called it, the honour of the
+French arms. At Salamanca, they said, that in consequence of the wounds
+of Marmont and other generals, their army was two hours without a
+commander. At Vittoria again, it was commanded by Jourdan, and any body
+could beat Jourdan. At Talavera, he committed "les plus grandes sottises
+du monde; il a fait une contre-marche digne d'un bete." Some of the Duke
+of Wellington's victories over Soult they stoutly denied, and others
+they ascribed to great superiority of numbers, and to the large drafts
+of Soult's best troops for the purpose of forming skeleton battalions,
+to receive the conscripts of 1813.
+
+The French pride themselves greatly on the _honour_ of their soldiers,
+and in this quality they uniformly maintain that they are unrivalled, at
+least on the continent of Europe. To this it is easy to reply, that,
+according to the common notions of honour, it has been violated more
+frequently and more completely by the French army than by any other. But
+this is in fact eluding the observation rather than refuting it. The
+truth appears to be, that the French _soldiers_ have a stronger sense of
+honour than those of almost any other service; but that the _officers_,
+having risen from the ranks, have brought with them to the most exalted
+stations, no more refined or liberal sentiments than those by which the
+private soldiers are very frequently actuated; and have, on the
+contrary, acquired habits of duplicity and intrigue, from which their
+brethren in inferior situations are exempt.
+
+When we say of the French soldiers that they have a strong sense of
+honour, we mean merely to express, that they will encounter dangers, and
+hardships, and privations, and calamities of every kind, with wonderful
+fortitude, and even cheerfulness, from no other motive than an _esprit
+du corps_--a regard for the character of the French arms. Without
+provocation from their enemies, without the prospect of plunder, without
+the hope of victory, without the conviction of the interest of their
+country in their deeds, without even the consolation of expecting care
+or attention in case of wounds or sickness,--they will not hesitate to
+lavish their blood, and sacrifice their lives, _for the glory of
+France_. Other troops go through similar scenes of suffering and danger
+with equal fortitude, when under the influence of strong passions, when
+fired by revenge, or animated by the hope of plunder, or cheered by the
+acclamations of victory; but with the single exception of the British
+army, we doubt whether there are any to whom the mere spirit of military
+honour is of itself so strong a stimulus.
+
+We have already noticed the state of the French sick and wounded, left
+in the hospitals at Wilna during the retreat from Russia; a state so
+deplorable, as to have excited the strongest commiseration among their
+indignant enemies. This, however, was but a single instance of the
+system almost uniformly acted on, we have understood, by the French
+medical staff in Russia, Germany, and Spain, of deserting their
+hospitals on the approach of the enemy, so as to leave to him, if he did
+not chuse to see the whole of the patients perish before his eyes, the
+burden of maintaining them. The miseries which this system must have
+occasioned, in the campaign of 1813 in particular, require no
+illustration.
+
+Another regulation of the French army, during the campaign of that year,
+will shew the utter carelessness of its leaders, in regard to the lives
+or comforts of the soldiers. When the men who were incapacitated for
+service by wounds or disease, were sent back to France, they were
+directed, in the first instance, to Mentz, where their uniforms, and any
+money they might have about them, were regularly taken from them, and
+given to the young conscripts who were passing through to join the
+armies; they were then dressed in miserable old rags, which were
+collected in the adjacent provinces by Jews employed for that purpose,
+and in this state they were sent to _beg_ their way to their homes.
+Such, as we were assured by some of our countrymen, who saw many of
+these men passing through Verdun, was the reward of thousands of the
+"_grande nation_" who had lost their limbs or their health in vainly
+endeavouring to maintain the glory and influence of their country in
+foreign states. In the campaign of 1814, which was carried on during the
+continuance of a frost of almost unprecedented intensity, and in so
+rapid and variable a manner, and with so large bodies of troops, as to
+prevent the establishment of regular hospitals or of any thing like a
+regular Commissariat, the French troops, particularly the young
+conscripts and national guards, suffered dreadfully; and numbers of them
+who escaped the swords of their enemies, perished miserably or were
+disabled for life, in consequence of hardships, and fatigues, and
+privations.
+
+All these examples were known to the French soldiers--they took place
+daily before their eyes, and, in the last instance, the allies took
+pains to let them know, that the only obstacle to honourable peace was
+the obstinacy of their commander; yet their ardour continued unabated;
+the young soldiers displayed a degree of valour in every action of both
+campaigns, which drew forth the warm applause even of their enemies; and
+it is not to be doubted, that the troops whom Napoleon collected at
+Fontainbleau, at the end of the campaign in France, were
+enthusiastically bent on carrying into effect the frantic resolution of
+attacking Paris, then occupied by a triple force of the allies, from
+which his officers with difficulty dissuaded him.
+
+In like manner, there is probably no general but Napoleon, who would not
+have attempted to terminate the miseries of the army during the retreat
+from Moscow, by entering into negotiation with the Russians; nor is
+there any army but the French which would have tamely consented to be
+entirely sacrificed to the obstinacy of an individual. But to have
+concluded a convention with the Russians would have been _compromising
+the honour of the French arms_; and this little form of words seemed to
+strike more terror to the hearts of the French soldiers, than either the
+swords of the Russians, or the dreary wastes and wintry storms of
+Russia, which might have been apostrophised in the words of the poet,
+
+    "Alas! even your unhallowed breath
+    May spare the victim fallen low,
+    But man will ask no truce to death,
+    No bounds to human woe."
+
+"He saw, without emotion, (says Labaume), the miserable remains of an
+army, lately so powerful, defile before him; yet his presence never
+excited a murmur; on the contrary, it animated even the most timid, who
+were always tranquil when in presence of the emperor." At the present
+moment, from all the accounts that we have received, as well as from our
+own observations of those French soldiers whom we have ourselves seen
+after their return from Moscow, the sentiments of the survivors of that
+expedition with regard to Napoleon remained unchanged; and no person who
+has read any of the narratives of the campaign can ascribe their
+constancy to any other cause, than that feeling of attachment to the
+glory of their country, to which the French, however improperly, give
+the name of military honour.
+
+If the character of the French soldiers is deserving of high admiration
+for their constancy and courage, it must be observed, on the other
+hand, that there is a mixture of _selfishness_ in it, an utter disregard
+of the feelings, and indifference as to the sufferings, not merely of
+their enemies, or of the inhabitants of the countries which they
+traverse, but even of their best friends and companions, which forbids
+us to go farther in their praise. It is as unnecessary, as it would be
+painful, to enter on an enumeration of the instances of wanton cruelty,
+violence, and rapacity, which have sullied the fame of their most
+brilliant deeds in arms. It will be long before the French name will
+recover the disgrace which the remembrance of such scenes as Moscow, or
+Saragossa, or Tarragona, has attached to it, in every country of Europe;
+and it is impossible to have a more convincing proof of the tyrannical
+and oppressive conduct of the French armies in foreign states, than the
+universal enthusiasm with which Europe has risen against them,--the
+indignant and determined spirit with which all ranks of every country
+have united to rid themselves of an oppression, not less galling to
+their individual feelings, than degrading to their national character.
+But it is particularly worthy of remark, that the latest and most
+authentic writers in France itself, who have given any account of the
+French armies, have, noticed selfishness, and disregard of the feelings
+of their own comrades, as well as of all other persons, as one of the
+most prominent features of their character. We need only refer to
+Labaume's book on the expedition to Russia, to Miot's work on the
+Egyptian campaigns, or to Rocca's history of the war in Spain, for ample
+proofs of the correctness of this observation. Whether this peculiarity
+is to be ascribed chiefly to their national character, or to the nature
+of the services in which they have been engaged, it is not very easy to
+decide.
+
+The dishonourable conduct of the French officers, particularly of the
+superior officers, in the present year, is much more easily explained
+than excused. They had risen from the ranks--they had been engaged all
+their lives in active and iniquitous services--they had been accustomed
+to look to success as the best criterion of merit, and to regard
+attachment to their leaders and their colours, as the only duties of
+soldiers;--they had never thought seriously on morality or
+religion--they had been applauded by their countrymen and
+fellow-soldiers, for actions in direct violation of both--and they had
+been taught to consider that applause as their highest honour and
+legitimate reward. Under these circumstances, it is easy to see, that
+they could have little information with regard to the true interests of
+France, and that they would regard the most sacred engagements as
+binding only in so far as general opinion would reprobate the violation
+of them; and when a strong party shewed itself, in the nation as well as
+the army, ready to support them and to extol their conduct in rising
+against the government, that their oaths would have no influence to
+restrain them. It is to be considered, likewise, that a large proportion
+of the officers had been originally republicans. They had been engaged
+in long and active military service, and been elated with military
+glory; in the multiplicity of their duties, and the intoxication of
+their success as soldiers, they had ceased to be citizens; but during
+the repose that succeeded the establishment of the Bourbons, when they
+again found themselves in the midst of their countrymen, their original
+political feelings and prejudices returned, embittered and exasperated
+by the influence of their military habits, and the remembrance of their
+military disgraces. We have ourselves conversed with several officers,
+who were strongly attached to Napoleon, but whose political views were
+decidedly republican; and have heard it stated, that the officers of
+artillery and engineers are supposed to be particularly democratic in
+their principles.
+
+It is much easier to account for the conduct of the French army since
+the dethronement of Napoleon, than to point out any means by which that
+conduct could have been altered. It was stated to us at Paris, that the
+number of military officers to be provided for by government, was
+upwards of 60,000. These would certainly comprise a very large
+proportion of the talents and enterprise of the French nation. The
+number of them that can have been sincerely devoted to the Bourbons, or
+that can have been otherwise disposed of since that time, cannot be
+great; nor do we see by what means it will be possible to reconcile the
+majority of this very important class of men, to a government which has
+twice owed its elevation to the discomfiture and humiliation of the
+French arms.
+
+It may be easily conceived, that in an army, the officers of which have,
+for the most part, risen from the ranks, the principles of strict
+military subordination cannot be enforced with the same punctilious
+rigour as in services where a marked distinction is constantly kept up
+between officers and soldiers. There is a more gradual transition from
+the highest to the lowest situations of the French army--a more
+complete amalgamation of the whole mass, than is consistent with the
+views of other governments in the maintenance of their standing armies.
+
+It is true, that a change has taken place in the composition of the
+French army, in this respect, under the imperial government. A number of
+military schools were established and encouraged in different parts of
+the country, and a great number of young men were sent to these by their
+parents, under the understanding, that after being educated in them they
+should become officers at once, without passing through the inferior
+steps, to which they would otherwise have been devoted by the
+conscription. A great number of officers, therefore, have of late years
+been appointed from these schools to the army, who have never served in
+the ranks; but the manners and habits which they acquire at the schools
+are, we should conceive, very little superior to what they might have
+learnt from the private soldiers, who would otherwise have been their
+associates. A comparison of the appearance and manner of the pupils of
+the Ecole Militaire, with those of the young men at the English military
+colleges, would shew, as strongly as any other parallel that could be
+drawn, the difference in respectability and gentlemanlike feeling
+between the English and French officers.
+
+There is so little of uniformity in dress, of regard to external
+appearance, or of shew of subordination, and inferiority to their
+officers, in the French soldiers, that a stranger would be apt to
+consider them as deficient in discipline. The fact is, that they know
+perfectly, from being continually engaged in active service, what are
+the essentials of military discipline, and that they are quite careless
+of all superfluous forms. Whatever regulations are necessary, in any
+particular circumstances, are strictly enforced; and the men submit to
+them, not from any principle of slavish subjection to their officers,
+but rather from deference to their superior intelligence and
+information, and from a regard to the good of the service.
+
+The French army may, in fact, be said to have little of the feelings
+which are truly military. The officers have not the strong feeling of
+humanity, and the high and just sense of honour, not merely as members
+of the army, but as individuals; the soldiers have not the habit of
+implicit obedience and attachment to their peculiar duties; and the
+whole have not the lively sense of responsibility to their country, and
+dependence on their sovereign, which are probably essential to the
+existence of an army which shall not be dangerous, even to the state
+that maintains it. The French army submitted implicitly to Napoleon,
+because he was their general; but we should doubt if they ever
+considered themselves, even under his dominion, as the _servants of
+France_. They appear, at present, at least, to think themselves an
+independent body, who have a right to act according to their own
+judgment, and are accountable to nobody for their actions. In this idea
+of their own importance they were, of course, encouraged by Napoleon,
+who, on his return from Elba, spoke of the injuries done by the Bourbons
+to the _army and people_, and assigned the former the most honourable
+place in his Champ de Mai. And it will appear by no means surprising,
+that they should have acquired these sentiments, when we consider the
+importance which has been attached to their exploits by their
+countrymen, the encouragement to which they have been accustomed, the
+preference to all other classes of men which was shewn them by the late
+government, and the nature of the services in which they have been
+engaged, and for which they have been rewarded; circumstances fitted to
+assimilate them, in reality as well as appearance, rather to an immense
+band of freebooters, having no principle but union among themselves,
+and submission to their chiefs, than to an established and responsible
+standing army.
+
+This observation applies to the feelings and principles of the soldiers
+taken as a body, not to their individual habits; for, excepting in the
+case of the detachment of the imperial guard, quartered at Fontainbleau,
+we never understood that the French soldiers in time of peace, at least
+among their own countrymen, were accused of outrage or rapine.
+
+There is considerable variety in the personal appearance of the French
+soldiers. The infantry are generally little men, much inferior to the
+Russians and Prussians in size and weight; but as they are almost all
+young, they appear equally well fitted for bearing fatigues, and they
+have an activity in their gait and demeanour, which accords well with
+their general character. In travelling through the country, we could
+almost always tell a French soldier from one of the allies at a
+distance, by the spring of his step. They have another excellent
+quality, that of being easily fed. Nothing appeared to excite more
+astonishment or indignation in France, than the quantity of food
+consumed by the allied troops. We found at Paris, that the Russian
+convalescents, occupying the hospitals which had formerly been
+appropriated to French troops, actually eat three times the rations
+which the French had been allowed. Frenchmen of the middling and higher
+ranks appear to have generally very keen appetites, and often surprise
+Englishmen by the magnitude and variety of their meals; but the
+peasantry and lower orders are accustomed to much poorer fare than the
+corresponding classes, at least in the southern part of our island, and
+the ordinary diet of the French soldiers is inferior to that of the
+English. In garrison, they are never allowed animal food, at least when
+in their own country; and the better living to which they are accustomed
+in foreign countries, and on active service, is a stronger
+recommendation of war to these volatile and unreflecting spirits, than
+it might at first be thought.
+
+The French cavalry are almost universally fine men, much superior to the
+infantry in appearance. The horses of the _chasseurs à cheval_, and
+hussars, are small, but active and hardy; and even those of the
+cuirassiers have not the weight or beauty of the English heavy dragoons,
+though we have understood that they bear the fatigues and privations,
+incident to long campaigns, much better.
+
+The imperial guard was composed, like the Russian guard, of picked men,
+who had already served a certain length of time, and the pay being
+higher than of the regiments of the line, and great pains being
+uniformly taken to preserve them as much as possible, from the hardships
+and dangers to which the other troops were exposed, and to reserve them
+for great emergencies, it was at once an honour and a reward to belong
+to them. We saw a review of the elite of the imperial guard on the 8th
+of May 1814, in presence of the King of France; the regiments of
+cavalry, of which a great number passed, were very weak in numbers, but
+the men were uncommonly fine, and the horses strong and active. The
+finest regiment of infantry of the old guard, with some pieces of
+cannon, did not defile before the King, but passed out of the Cour de
+Carousel by a back way, on account, as we understood, of its having
+shewn strong symptoms of disgust on the entrance of the King into Paris.
+That regiment, as well as all the rest of the infantry of the old guard,
+then called the Grenadiers Français, whom we had ever occasion to see,
+was composed of the finest men, not merely in point of strength, but of
+activity and apparent intelligence. The few pieces of artillery of the
+guard that we saw were in very bad condition, and their equipment
+particularly mean; but this branch of the service had not then had time
+to repair the losses it had sustained in the campaign.
+
+The cavalry of the guard appeared to have been the most fashionable
+service under Napoleon. There were cuirassiers, heavy and light
+dragoons, chasseurs, hussars, grenadiers à cheval, and lancers of the
+guard, all of whom had different and splendid uniforms, and presented an
+uncommonly varied and magnificent appearance when reviewed together.
+Their magnificence and variety was evidently intended to gratify the
+taste of the French people for splendid shows, and to attract young men
+of fortune and expensive habits.
+
+The imperial guard had much more of the air and manner, as well as
+dress, of regular soldiers, than any other part of the French army;
+indeed it is impossible to conceive a more martial or imposing figure
+than that of one of the old grenadiers, (commonly called the _vieux
+moustaches_,) in his striking and appropriate costume, armed with his
+musket and sword, the cross of the legion of honour on his breast, his
+rough and weather-beaten countenance bearing the impression of the sun
+of Italy and the snows of Russia, while his keen and restless eye
+shows, more expressively than words, that he is still "ready, aye
+ready, for the field."
+
+We thought we could discern in the countenances of the troops of
+different nations, whom we saw reviewed about this time, the traces of
+the difference of national character. The general expression of the
+Russians, we thought, was that of stern obstinate determination; of the
+Prussians, warm enthusiastic gallantry; of the French, fierce and
+indignant impetuosity. This may have been fancy, but all who have seen
+the troops of these different nations, will allow a very striking
+difference of expression of countenance, as well as of features.
+
+* * *
+
+No measure was omitted by Napoleon to secure, the services, in the army,
+of all who could be of any use in it. The organization of the garde
+d'honneur was intended to include as large a number as possible of the
+young men, whose circumstances had enabled them to avoid the
+conscription. No act of the Imperial Government seemed to have given
+more general offence in France than the formation of this corps, the
+number of which was stated to have amounted at one time to 10,000. They
+were, in the first instance, invited to volunteer, under the assurance
+that they were to be employed as a guard for Maria Louisa, and under no
+circumstances to be sent across the Rhine. A maximum and minimum number
+were fixed for each _arrondissement_, some number between which was to
+be made up by voluntary enrolments; but when any deficiency was
+discovered, as for example in Holland, where the young men were very
+little disposed to voluntary service in the French army, a balloting
+immediately took place, and a number greater than the maximum was
+compelled to come forward. Exemption from this service was impossible;
+immense sums were offered and refused. They were all mounted, armed, and
+clothed at their own expense; those who did not chuse to march, were
+sent off under an escort of gens-d'armes; and all were conducted to the
+fortresses on the Rhine, were they were regularly drilled. Some of them
+were induced to volunteer for extended service, by a promise, that after
+serving one campaign, they should be made officers; and in the course of
+the campaign of 1813, _all_ of them were brought up to join the army;
+and these young men, taken only a few weeks before from their families,
+where many of them had been accustomed to every luxury and indulgence,
+were compelled to go through all the duties and fatigues of common
+hussars. Some regiments of them, which were very early brought into
+action, having misconducted themselves, were immediately disbanded;
+their horses, arms, and uniforms, were taken from them for the use of
+the other troops, and they were dismissed, to find the best of their way
+to their homes. Those who remained were distributed among the different
+corps of cavalry, and suffered very severely in the campaign in France.
+We spoke to some of them at Paris, who said they had bivouacked, at one
+period of the campaign, _on snow_, fourteen nights successively, and
+described to us the action at Rheims, one of the last that was fought,
+where half of their regiment were left on the field. These men
+complained loudly of the treacherous conduct of Napoleon to them and
+their brethren of the same corps; yet they expressed their willingness
+to undergo all their sufferings again, if they could thereby transfer
+the date of the peace to the other side of the Rhine.
+
+The effect of this measure on the middling and higher ranks was not more
+oppressive than that of the conscription on the lower ranks, and even on
+persons in tolerably good circumstances; for we have heard of £.400
+Sterling, being twice paid to rescue an individual, whom a third
+conscription had at length torn from his family. The impression produced
+in France, however, by either of these measures, cannot be judged of
+from a comparison with the feelings so often manifested in this country,
+under circumstances of less aggravated affliction. The same careless,
+unthinking, constitutional cheerfulness, which is so commendable in
+those Frenchmen whose sufferings are all personal, displays itself in a
+darker point of view, when they are called on to sympathise with the
+sufferings of their friends. It is a disposition, allied indeed to
+magnanimity on the one hand, but to selfishness on the other. The
+sufferings of the French on such an occasion as the loss of a near
+relation, may be acute; but they are of very short duration. In Paris,
+mourning is at present hardly ever worn. At the time when we were there,
+although a bloody campaign had only recently been concluded, we did not
+see above five or six persons in mourning, and even these were not
+certainly French. We understood it to be a principle all over France,
+never to wear mourning for a son; but whether this was adopted in
+compliance with the wishes of Napoleon, as was stated by some, or was
+general before his time, as others maintained, we were not sufficiently
+informed.
+
+* * *
+
+It may be a question, whether the real, as well as professed motive of
+the policy of Napoleon, while he directed the affairs of France, was
+some ill-conceived and absurd idea of the superior happiness and
+prosperity which France might enjoy, if placed indisputably at the head
+of the civilized world, and especially if elevated above the rivalship
+of England; but if the good of France was really his end, it is quite
+certain that it engaged very little of his attention, and that he
+occupied himself almost exclusively with regard to the means which he
+held to be necessary to its attainment. The causes of the wars in which
+he engaged were of little importance to him; but the immediate object of
+all of them was the glory and aggrandizement of France; and to this
+object his whole soul was devoted, and all the energies of the state
+were directed.
+
+In a general view, the imperial government may be said to have rested on
+the following foundations.
+
+In the first place, it rested on the principle which was universally
+acted on, of giving active employment, and animating encouragement, to
+all men of talents or enterprise--to all whose friendship might be
+useful, or whose enmity might be dangerous. The conscription carried off
+the flower of the youthful population; parents were encouraged to send
+their children; if they shewed any superior abilities, to the military
+schools, whence they were rapidly promoted in the army. The formation of
+the garde d'honneur effectually prevented all danger from a numerous
+class of men, whose circumstances might have enabled them to exert
+themselves in opposing public measures. In the civil administration of
+the country, it was the system of Napoleon, from the beginning of his
+career, to give employment to all who might be dangerous, if their
+services were not secured. The prefects of towns and _arrondissements_,
+were generally men of intelligence and information regarding the
+characters of the inhabitants; and the persons recommended by them to
+the immense number of situations in the police, in the collection of
+taxes, &c. were always men of activity, enterprise, and ability: Birth,
+education, and moral character, were altogether disregarded, and
+religious principle was rather considered a fault than a recommendation.
+
+The consequence was, that the young, the bold, the active, the
+enterprising, the independent, were either attached to the imperial
+government, or at least prevented from exerting themselves in opposition
+to it; while those whom family cares, or laborious occupations, or
+habits of indolence, or want of energy of mind, rendered unfit for
+resistance to any government, were the only people whose interest it
+was to resist that of Napoleon.
+
+In the next place, while much was done by these means to secure the
+support of the most important part of the nation to the imperial
+government, the most effectual precautions were taken to prevent danger
+to it, from those whom either principle might lead, or injuries might
+provoke to disaffection. The police was everywhere so powerful, and the
+system of espionage so universally extended, that it was almost
+impossible for different individuals to combine against the government.
+Without including the hosts of douaniers, who were under the orders of
+the collectors of taxes, the gens d'armerie, who were at the disposal of
+the police, and had no other duties to perform, amounted to above 10,000
+men, cavalry and infantry, all completely armed and equipped. As soon,
+therefore, as any individual excited suspicion, there was no difficulty
+as to his apprehension. The number of police officers was very great,
+and they were all low born, clever, unprincipled men, perfectly fitted
+for their situations. The extent and accuracy of the information
+possessed by them was almost incredible. Indeed, we regard the system of
+espionage, by which this information was procured, as the most complete
+and damning proof of the general selfishness and immorality of the
+French people, of which we have received any account. It was not merely
+that a number of persons were employed by the police as spies; but that
+no man could put any confidence even in his best friends and nearest
+relations. The very essence of the system was the destruction of all
+confidence between man and man; and its success was such, that no man
+could venture to express any sentiments hostile to the government, even
+in the retirement of his own family circle. That sacred sanctuary was
+every where invaded, not by the strong hand of power, but by the secret
+machinations of bribery and intrigue.
+
+We were particularly informed, with respect to the establishment of the
+police in Amsterdam, where the sentiments of the people being known to
+be averse to French dominion, it was of course made stronger than in
+less suspicious parts of the country. Within a week after the annexation
+of Holland to France, the police was in full force, and the spies every
+where in motion. No servant was allowed to engage himself who had not a
+certificate from the police, implying his being a spy on his master. At
+the _tables d'hôte_, persons were placed to encourage seditious
+conversation, and those who expressed themselves strongly, were soon
+after seized and committed to prison. No person could leave Amsterdam,
+even to go three miles into the country, without a passport from the
+police, which was granted only to whom they pleased. When a party went
+out on such an excursion, they were sure to be met by some of the gens
+d'armerie, who already knew their names and destination, and who fixed
+the time of their return. From the decisions of the police there was no
+appeal; and those who were imprisoned by them, (as so many of the
+inhabitants of Amsterdam were, that it ceased to be any reproach,) had
+no method of bringing on a trial, or even of ascertaining the crimes of
+which they were accused. Frequently individuals were transported from
+one part of the country to another, without any reason being assigned,
+and set down among strangers, to make their bread as they best could,
+under the inspection of the police, who instantly arrested them on their
+attempting to escape. This system was probably more strictly enforced in
+Holland than over the greater part of France, but its most essential
+parts were every where the same, and the information, with respect to
+the private characters and sentiments of individuals, was certainly
+more easily obtained in France than in Holland.
+
+Such, according to the information of the most intelligent and best
+informed persons with whom we had an opportunity of conversing, were the
+principal means by which the power of Napoleon was maintained, and his
+authority enforced. But it must be owned that he did more than
+this,--that during the greater part of his reign, he not only commanded
+the obedience, but obtained the admiration and esteem of the majority of
+his subjects.
+
+In looking for the causes of this, we shall in vain attempt to discover
+them in real benefits conferred on France by Napoleon. It is true, that
+agriculture made some progress during his reign, but this was decidedly
+owing to the transference of the landed property from nobles and
+churchmen, to persons really interested in the cultivation of the soil,
+which had taken place before his time, and not to the empty and
+ostentatious patronage which he bestowed on it; the best proof of which
+is, that the main improvement that has taken place has not been, as
+already observed, in the principles or practice of agriculture, but in
+the quantity of land under tillage. It is true also, that certain
+manufactures have been encouraged by the exclusion of the English
+goods; but this partial increase of wealth was certainly not worth the
+expense of a year's war, and was heavily counterbalanced by the distress
+occasioned by his tyrannical decrees in the commercial towns of France,
+and of the countries which were subjected to her control.
+
+As a single instance of this distress, we may just notice the situation
+of the city of Amsterdam during the time that Holland was incorporated
+with France. Out of 200,000 inhabitants of that city, more than one
+half, during the whole of that time, were absolutely deprived of the
+means of subsistence, and lived merely on the charity of the remainder,
+who were, for the most part, unable to engage in any profitable
+business, all foreign commerce being at an end, and supported themselves
+therefore on the capital which they had previously acquired; and, lest
+that capital should escape, two-thirds of the national debt of Holland
+were struck off by a single decree of Napoleon. The population of the
+town fell off about 20,000 during the time of its connection with
+France; the taxes, while the two countries were incorporated, were
+enormous; the income-tax, which was independent of the droits reunis, or
+assessed taxes, having been stated to us at one-fifth of every man's
+income. It was during the pressure of these burdens that the tremendous
+system of police which we have described was enforced; and to add to the
+miseries of the unfortunate inhabitants of this and the other commercial
+towns of Holland, they were not allowed to manifest their sufferings.
+Every man who possessed or inhabited a house was compelled to keep it in
+perfect repair; so that even at the time of their liberation, these
+towns bore no external mark of poverty or decay. The consequence of that
+decree, however, had been, that persons possessing houses at first
+lowered their rents, then asked no rents at all; happy to get them off
+their hands, and throw on the tenants the burden of paying taxes for
+them and keeping them in repair; and lastly, in many instances, offered
+sums of money to bribe others to live in their houses, or even accept
+the property of them.
+
+The taxes of France, under Napoleon, it would have been supposed, were
+alone sufficient to exasperate the people against them. They were
+oppressive, not merely from their amount, but especially from the
+arbitrary power which was granted to the prefects of towns and
+_arrondissements_, and their agents, in collecting them. A certain sum
+was directed to be levied in each district, and the apportioning of this
+burden on the different inhabitants was left almost entirely to the
+discretion of these officers.
+
+It is quite obvious, therefore, as we already hinted; that the
+popularity of Napoleon in France, during at least the greater part of
+his reign; can be traced to no other source than the national vanity of
+the French. As they are more fond of shew than of comfort in private
+life, so their public affections are more easily won by gaudy
+decorations than by substantial benefits. Napoleon gave them enough of
+the former; they had victories abroad and _spectacles_ at home--their
+capital was embellished--their country was aggrandised--their glory was
+exalted; and if he had continued successful, France would still have
+continued to applaud and admire him, while she had sons to swell her
+armies, and daughters to drudge in her fields.
+
+As it was not Napoleon who made the French a military and ambitious
+people, so it is not his fall alone that can secure the world against
+the effects of their military and ambitious spirit. It is not merely the
+removal of him who has so long guided it, but the extinction of the
+spirit itself that is necessary. The effect of the late events on the
+active part of the population of France, cannot be accurately judged of
+in the present moment of irritation and disorder; but whatever
+government that country may ultimately assume, it may surely be hoped
+that their experience of unsuccessful and calamitous war has been
+sufficient to incline them to peace; that they will learn to measure
+their national glory by a better standard than mere victory or noise;
+that they will reflect on the true objects, both of political and
+military institutions, and acknowledge the happiness of the people they
+govern to be the supreme law of kings, and the blessings of the country
+they serve to be the best reward of soldiers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+JOURNEY TO FLANDERS.
+
+
+When we left Paris, we took the road to Soissons and Laon, with a view
+to see the seat of war during the previous campaign, and examine the
+interesting country of Flanders. After passing the village of La
+Villette, and the heights of Belleville, the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting, and is distinguished by those features which characterise
+almost all the level agricultural districts of France. The road, which
+is of great breadth, and paved in the centre, runs through a continued
+plain, in which, as far as the eye can reach, nothing is to be discerned
+but a vast expanse of corn fields, varied at intervals by fallows, and
+small tracts of lucerne and sainfoin. No inclosures are to be met with;
+few woods are seen to vary the uniformity of the view; and the level
+surface of the ground is only broken at intervals by the long rows of
+fruit-trees, which intersect the country in different directions, or the
+tall avenues of elms between which the _chaussèes_ are placed.
+
+These elm trees would give a magnificent appearance to the roads, both
+from their age and the immense length during which they fringe its
+sides, were it not that they are uniformly clipt to the very top, for
+firewood, by the peasantry, and that all their natural beauty is in
+consequence destroyed. The elm, indeed, pushes out its shoots to replace
+the branches which have been destroyed, and fringes the lofty stem with
+a cluster of foliage; but as soon as these young branches have become
+large, they too are in their turn sacrificed to the same purpose. When
+seen from a distance, accordingly, these trees resemble tall May-poles
+with tufts at their tops, and are hardly to be distinguished from the
+Lombardy poplars, which, in many parts of the country, line the sides of
+the principal roads.
+
+One most remarkable circumstance in the agricultural districts of
+France, is here to be seen in its full extent. The people do not dwell
+in detached cottages, placed in the centre of their farms or their
+properties, as in all parts of England; they live together in aged
+villages or boroughs, often at the distance of two or three miles from
+the place of their labour, and wholly separated from the farms which
+they are employed in cultivating. It is no uncommon thing accordingly,
+to see a farmer leaving a little town in the morning with his ploughs
+and horses, to go to his piece of ground, which lies many miles from the
+place of his residence.
+
+This circumstance, which exists more or less in every part of France, is
+characteristic of the state in which the people were placed in those
+remote periods, when their habits of life were originally formed. It
+indicates that popular degradation and public insecurity, when the poor
+were compelled to unite themselves in villages or towns for protection
+from the banditti, whom the government was unable to restrain, or from
+the more desolating oppression of feudal power. In every country of
+Europe, in which the feudal tyranny long subsisted; in Spain, in France,
+in Poland, and in Hungary, this custom has prevailed to a certain
+extent, and the remains of it are still to be seen in the remoter parts
+of Scotland. It is in countries alone whose freedom has long subsisted;
+in Switzerland, in Flanders, and in England, that no traces of its
+effects are to be discerned in the manners and the condition of the
+peasantry; that the enjoyment of individual security has enabled the
+poor to spread themselves in fearless confidence over the country; and
+that the traveller, in admiring the union of natural beauty with general
+prosperity, which the appearance of the country exhibits, blesses that
+government, by the influence of whose equal laws that delightful union
+has been effected.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Paris, and in those situations which are
+favourable for vineyard or garden cultivation, this circumstance gives a
+very singular aspect to the face of the country. As far as the eye can
+reach, the sloping banks, or rising swells, are cultivated with the
+utmost care, and intersected by little paths, which wind through the
+gardens, or among the vineyards, in the most beautiful manner; yet no
+traces of human habitation are to be discerned, by whose labour, or for
+whose use, this admirable cultivation has been conducted. The labourers,
+or proprietors of these gardens, dwell at the distance of miles, in
+antiquated villages, which resemble the old boroughs which are now
+wearing out in the improved parts of Scotland. In the greater part of
+France, the people dwell in this manner, in crowded villages, while the
+open country, every where cultivated, is but seldom inhabited. The
+superiority, accordingly, in the beauty of those districts, where the
+cottages are sprinkled over the country, and surrounded by fruit-trees,
+is greater than can well be imagined: and it is owing to this
+circumstance that Picardy, Artois, and Normandy, exhibit so much more
+pleasing an appearance, than most of the other provinces of France.
+
+In the district between Paris and Soissons, as in almost every other
+part of the country, the land is now in the hands of the peasantry, who
+became proprietors of it during the struggles of the revolution. We had
+every where occasion to observe the extreme industry with which the
+people conduct their cultivation, and perceived numerous instances of
+the truth of Mr Young's observation, "that there is no such instigator
+to severe and incessant labour, as the minute subdivision of landed
+property." But though their industry was uniformly in the highest degree
+laudable, yet we could not help deploring the ignorant and unskilful
+manner in which this industry is directed. The cultivation is still
+carried on after the miserable rotation which so justly excited the
+indignation of Mr Young previous to the commencement of the revolution.
+Wheat, barley or oats, sainfoin, lucerne or clover, and fallow, form
+the universal rotation. The green crops are uniformly cut, and carried
+into the house for the cattle; as there are no inclosures, there is no
+such thing as pasturage in the fields; and, except once on the banks of
+the Oise, we never saw cattle pasturing in those parts of France. The
+small quantity of lucerne and sainfoin, moreover, shews that there are
+but few herds in this part of France, and that meat, butter, or cheese,
+form but a small part of the food of the peasantry. Normandy, in fact,
+is the only pasture district of France, and the produce of the dairy
+there is principally intended for the markets of Paris.
+
+The soil is apparently excellent the whole way, composed of a loam in
+some places, mixed with clay and sand, and extremely easily worked.
+Miserable fallows are often seen, on which the sheep pick up a wretched
+subsistence--their lean sides and meagre limbs exhibit the effects of
+the scanty food which they are able to obtain. The ploughing to us
+appeared excellent; but we were unable to determine whether this was to
+be imputed to the skilfulness of the labourer, or the light friable
+nature of the soil.
+
+The property of the peasantry is not surrounded by any enclosures, nor
+are there any visible marks whereby their separate boundaries could be
+determined by the eye of a stranger. The plain exhibits one unbroken
+surface of corn or vineyards, and appears as if it all formed a part of
+one boundless property. The vast expanse, however, is in fact subdivided
+into an infinite number of small estates, the proprietors of which dwell
+in the aged boroughs through which the road occasionally passes, and the
+extremities of which are marked by great stones fixed on their ends,
+which are concealed from a passenger by the luxuriant corn in which they
+are enveloped. This description applies to the grain districts in almost
+every part of France.
+
+Although the condition of the peasantry has been greatly ameliorated, in
+consequence of the division of landed property since the revolution, yet
+their increased wealth has not yet had any influence on the state of
+their habitations, or the general comfort of their dwellings. This rises
+from the nature of the contributions to which they were subjected during
+the despotic governments which succeeded the first years of the
+revolution. These contributions were levied by the governors of
+districts in the most arbitrary manner. The arrondissement was assessed
+at a certain sum by the government, or a certain contribution for the
+support of the war was imposed; and the sum was proportioned out among
+the different inhabitants, according to the discretion of the collector.
+Any appearance of comfort, accordingly, among the peasantry, was
+immediately followed by an increased contribution, and heavier taxes;
+and hence the people never ventured to make any display of their
+increased wealth in their dwellings, or in any article of their
+expenditure, which might attract, the notice of the collectors of the
+imperial revenue. The burdens to which they were subjected, moreover,
+especially during the last years of the war, were extremely severe,
+arising both from the enormous sums requisite to save their sons from
+the conscription, and the heavy unequal contributions to which they were
+subjected.
+
+From these causes, the division of landed property has not yet produced
+that striking amelioration in the habits and present comfort of the
+peasantry, which generally attend this important measure; and their
+wealth is rather hoarded up, after the eastern custom, for future,
+emergencies or spent in the support of an early marriage; and never
+lavished in the fearless enjoyment of present opulence.
+
+In some respects, however, their appearance evidently bears the mark of
+the improvement in their situation. Their dress is upon the whole neat
+and comfortable, covered in general by a species of smock frock of a
+light blue colour, and exhibiting none of that miserable appearance
+which Mr Young described as characterising the labouring classes during
+his time. They evidently had the aspect of being well fed, and both in
+their figures and dress, afforded a striking contrast to the wretched
+and decrepid inhabitants of the towns, in whom the real poverty of the
+people, under the old regime, was still perceptible. In some of these
+towns, the appearance of the beggars, their extraordinary figures, and
+tattered dress, exhibited a spectacle which would have been
+inconceivably ludicrous, were it not for the melancholy ideas of abject
+poverty which it necessarily conveyed.
+
+About twenty miles from Soissons, the road passes through the
+magnificent forest of Villars Coterets, which, in the luxuriance and
+extent of its woods, rivals the forest of Fontainbleau. The place on
+which it stands is varied by rising grounds, and the distance exhibits
+beautiful vistas of forest scenery and gentle swells, adorned by rich
+and varied foliage. It wants, however, those grand and striking
+features, that mixture of rock and wood, of forest gloom and savage
+scenery, which give so unrivalled a charm to the forest of
+Fontainbleau.
+
+From Villars Coterets, the road lies over a high plateau, covered with
+grain, and exhibiting more than ordinary barrenness and desolation.
+After passing over this dreary track, you arrive at the edge of a steep
+declivity, which shelves down to the valley in which the Aisne wanders.
+The appearance of this valley is extremely beautiful. It is sheltered by
+high ridges, or sloping hills, covered with vineyards, orchards, and
+luxuriant woods: the little plain is studded with villas and neat
+cottages, embosomed in trees, or surrounded by green meadows, in which
+the winding course of the Aisne can at intervals be discerned. When we
+reached this spot, the sun had newly risen; his level rays illuminated
+the white cottages with which the valley is sprinkled, or glittered on
+the stream which winded through its plain; while the Gothic towers of
+Soissons threw a long shadow over the green fields which surrounded its
+walls. It reminded us of those lines in Thomson, in which the effect of
+the morning light is so beautifully described:
+
+      "Lo, now apparent all,
+    Aslant the dew-bright earth and coloured air,
+    He looks in boundless majesty abroad,
+    And sheds the shining day, that burnished plays
+    On rocks, and hills, and towers, and wandering streams,
+    High gleaming from afar."
+
+The descent to Soissons is through a declivity adorned by thriving
+gardens and neat cottages, detached from each other, which afforded a
+pleasing contrast to the solitary, uninhabited, though cultivated plains
+through which our route had previously lain. The Fauxbourgs of the town
+were wholly in ruins, having been totally destroyed in the three
+assaults which they had sustained during the previous campaign. The town
+itself is small, surrounded by decayed fortifications, and containing
+nothing of note, except the Gothic spires, which bear testimony to its
+antiquity.
+
+On leaving Soissons on the road to Laon, you go for two miles through
+the level plain in which the town is situated; after which you begin to
+ascend the steep ridge by which its eastern boundary is formed. It was
+on the summit of this ridge that Marshal Blucher's army was drawn up,
+80,000 strong, at the time when a detachment of his troops, under Count
+Langeron, was defending Soissons against the French army. Immediately
+below this position, there is placed a small village, which bore the
+marks of desperate fighting; all the houses were unroofed or shattered
+in every part by musket balls; and many seemed to have been burnt during
+the struggles of which it was formerly the theatre. There is an old
+castle a little higher up the ascent, which was garrisoned by the allied
+troops; in the neighbourhood of which, we perceived numerous traces of
+the immense bivouacs which had been made round its walls; particularly
+the bodies of horses and oxen, which the Russians had left on the
+ground, and which the peasants had taken no pains to remove.
+
+From thence the road runs over a high level plateau, covered with
+miserable corn, or worse fallows, and having an aspect of sterility very
+different from what we were accustomed to in the rich provinces of
+France. In the midst of this dreary country, we beheld with delight
+several deep ravines, formed by streams which fall into the Aisne,
+sheltered from the chilling blasts that sweep along the high plains by
+which they are surrounded, the steep sides of which were clothed with
+luxuriant woods, and in the bottom of which are placed many little farms
+and cottages, which exhibited a perfect picture of rural beauty. Even
+here, however, the terrible effects of war were clearly visible; these
+sequestered spots had been ravaged by the hostile armies; and the ruined
+walls of the peasants dwellings presented a melancholy spectacle in the
+midst of the profusion of beauty with which they were surrounded.
+
+Half way between Soissons and Laon, is placed a solitary inn, at which
+Bonaparte stopt six hours, after the disastrous termination of the
+battle of Laon. The people informed us, that during this time, he was in
+a state of great agitation, wrote many different orders, which he
+destroyed as fast as they were done, and covered the floor with the
+fragments of his writing. Many Cossacks and Bashkirs had been quartered
+in this inn; the people, as usual, would not allow them any good
+qualities, but often repeated, with evident chagrin--"Ils mangent comme
+des diables; ils ont mangé tous les poulets."
+
+The features of the country continue with little variety, till you begin
+to descend from the high plateau, over which the road has passed into
+the wooded valley, in the centre of which the hill and town of Laon are
+placed. The dreary aspect of this plateau, which, though cultivated in
+every part, exhibited few traces of human habitation, was enlivened
+occasionally by herds of pigs, of a lean and meagre breed, (followed by
+shepherds of the most grotesque appearance,) wandering over the bare
+fallows, and seemingly reduced to the necessity of feeding on their
+mother earth.
+
+At the distance of six miles from Laon, the descent begins to the plain
+below, down the side of a deep ravine, beautifully clothed with woods
+and vineyards. On the other side of this ravine lies the plateau on
+which the battle of Craon was fought, whose level desolate surface
+seemed a fit theatre for the struggle that was there maintained. At the
+bottom of the ravine the road passes a long line of villages, surrounded
+with wood and gardens, which had been wholly ruined by the operations of
+the armies; and among the neighbouring woods we were shewn numerous
+graves both of French and Russian soldiers.
+
+The approach to Laon lies through a great morass, covered in different
+places with low brushwood, and intersected only by the narrow chaussèe
+on which the road is laid. The appearance of the town is very striking;
+standing on a hill in the centre of a plain of 10 or 12 miles in
+diameter, bounded on all sides by steep and wooded ridges. It is
+surrounded by an old wall, and some decayed towers, and is adorned by
+some fine Gothic spires, whose apparent magnitude is much increased by
+the elevated station on which they are placed.
+
+In crossing this chaussèe, we were immediately struck with the
+extraordinary policy of Bonaparte, in attacking the Russian army posted
+on the heights of Laon, where his only retreat was by the narrow road
+we were traversing, which for several miles, ran through a morass,
+impassible for carriages or artillery. This appeared the more wonderful,
+as the army he was attacking was more numerous than his own, composed of
+admirable troops, and posted in a position where little hopes of success
+could be entertained. It was an error of the same kind as he committed
+at Leipsic, when he gave battle to the allied armies with a single
+bridge and a long defile in his rear. It is laid down as one of the
+first maxims of war, by Frederic the Great, "never to fight an enemy
+with a bridge or defile in your rear: as if you are defeated, the ruin
+of the army must ensue in the confusion which the narrowness of the
+retreat creates." We cannot suppose so great a general as Bonaparte to
+have been ignorant of so established a principle, or a rule which common
+sense appears so obviously to dictate; it is more probable, that in the
+confidence which the long habit of success had occasioned, he never
+contemplated the possibility of a defeat, nor took any measures whatever
+for ensuring the safety of his army in the event of a retreat. Be this
+as it may, it is certain that he fought at Laon with a morass, crossed
+by a single chaussèe, in his rear, and that if he had been totally
+defeated, instead of being repulsed in the action which then took
+place, his army must have been irretrievably ruined, in the narrow line
+over which their retreat was of necessity conducted.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Laon is placed a small village named Semilly,
+in which a desperate conflict had evidently been maintained. The trees
+were riddled with the cannon-shot; the walls were pierced for the fire
+of infantry, and the houses all in ruins, from the showers of balls to
+which they had been exposed. The steep declivity of the hill itself was
+covered with gardens and vineyards, in which the allied army had been
+posted during the continuance of the conflict; but though three months
+had not elapsed since the period when they were filled with hostile
+troops, no traces of desolation were to be seen, nor any thing which
+could indicate the occurrence of any extraordinary events. The vines
+grew in the utmost luxuriance on the spot where columns of infantry had
+so recently stood, and the garden cultivation appeared in all its
+neatness, on the very ground which had been lately traversed by all the
+apparatus of modern warfare. It would have been impossible for any one
+to have conceived, that the destruction they occasioned could so soon
+have been repaired; or that the powers of Nature, in that genial
+climate, could so rapidly have effaced all traces of the desolation
+which marked the track of human ambition.
+
+The town of Laon itself contains little worthy of note; but the view
+from its ramparts, though not extensive, was one of the most pleasing
+which we had seen in France. The little plain with which the town is
+surrounded, is varied with woods, corn fields, and vineyards; the view
+is closed on every side by a ridge of hills, which form a circular
+boundary round its farthest extremity, while the foreground is finely
+marked by the decaying towers of the fortress, or the dark foliage which
+shades its ramparts.
+
+We walked over the field of battle with a degree of interest, which
+nothing but the memorable operations of which it had formerly been the
+theatre, could possibly have excited. The accounts of the action, which
+we received from the inhabitants of the town, and peasantry in its
+vicinity, agreed perfectly with the official details which we had
+previously read; and although we could not give an opinion with
+confidence on a military question, it certainly appeared to us, that the
+operations of the French army had been ill combined. Indeed, some
+French officers with whom we conversed on the next day, allowed that the
+battle had been ill fought, but, as usual, laid all the blame upon
+Marmont. The main body of the French army, advancing by the road from
+Soissons, attacked the villages of Ardon and Semilly in front of the
+town, on the centre of Marshal Blucher's position, and his right wing,
+which was posted in the intersected ground to the west of the town, on
+the morning of the 9th of March. These parts of the position were
+occupied chiefly by the corps of Woronzoff and Buloff, and as they were
+very strong, no impression was made on them, and the troops who defended
+them maintained themselves, without support from the reserves, during
+the whole day. Late in the evening, the corps of Marmont, with a body of
+cavalry under Arrighi, appeared on the road from Rheims, advancing
+apparently without any communication or concert with the troops under
+Napoleon in person, (who were drawn up, for the most part, in heavy
+columns, in the immediate vicinity of the Soissons road), and made a
+furious attack on the extreme left of Marshal Blucher's position. The
+Marshal being satisfied by this time, that the troops in position about
+the town were adequate to the defence of it against Napoleon's force,
+was enabled to detach the whole corps of York, Kleist, and Sacken, with
+the greater part of his cavalry, to oppose Marmont, who was instantly
+overthrown, cut off from all communication with Napoleon, and driven
+across the Aisne, with the loss of four or five thousand prisoners, and
+forty pieces of cannon. The only assistance which Napoleon could give
+him in his retreat, was by renewing the attack on Ardon and Semilly,
+which he did next morning, and maintained the action during the whole of
+the 10th, with no other effect, than preventing the pursuit of Marmont
+from being followed up by the vigour which might otherwise have been
+displayed by the Silesian army, notwithstanding the fatigues which they
+had undergone at that time, during six weeks of continued marching and
+fighting.
+
+The village of Athies, where the contest with Marmont's corps was
+decided, containing about 200 houses, had been completely burnt in the
+time of the action; and, when we were there, little progress had been
+made in rebuilding it, but the inhabitants, then living in temporary
+sheds, displayed their usual cheerfulness and equanimity; they were very
+loud in reprobation of the military conduct of Marmont, and very anxious
+to convince us, that the French had been overwhelmed only by great
+superiority of numbers, and that the allies might have completely cut
+off the retreat of Marmont towards Rheims, if they had known how to
+profit by their success.
+
+June 8th, we left Laon at sunrise, and took the road to St Quentin. For
+a few miles the road passes through the plain in which the town is
+placed, after which it enters a pass, formed between the sloping hills,
+by which its boundary is marked. These hills are, for the most part,
+soft and green, like those on the banks of the Yarrow in Scotland, but
+varied, in some places, by woods and orchards; and their lower
+declivities are every where covered by vineyards and garden cultivation.
+Near their foot is placed the village of Cressy, which struck us as the
+most comfortable we had seen in France. The houses are all neat and
+substantial, covered with excellent slated roofs, and lighted by large
+windows, each surrounded by a little garden, and exhibiting a degree of
+comfort rarely to be met with among the dwellings of the French
+peasantry. On inquiry, we found that these peasants had long been
+proprietors of their houses, with the gardens attached, and had each a
+vineyard on the adjoining heights. The effects of long established
+property were here very apparent in the habits of comfort and industry,
+which, in process of time, it had ingrafted upon the dispositions and
+wishes of the people.
+
+After passing the ridge of little hills, through banks clothed with
+hanging woods, the road descends into a little circular valley,
+surrounded on all sides by rising grounds, which presented a scene of
+the most perfect rural beauty. The upper part of the hills were covered
+with luxuriant woods, whose flowing outline suited the expression of
+softness and repose by which the scene was distinguished; on the
+declivities below the wood, the vineyards, gardens, and fruit-trees,
+covered the sunny banks which descended into the plain, while the lower
+part of the valley was filled with a village, embosomed in fruit-trees,
+ornamented only by a simple spire. It is impossible for language to
+convey an adequate idea of the beauty of this exquisite scene; it united
+the interest of romantic scenery with the charm of cultivated nature,
+and seemed placed in this sequestered valley, to combine all that was
+delightful in rural life. When we first beheld it, the sun was newly
+risen; his increasing rays threw a soft light over the wooded hills, and
+illuminated the summit of the village spire; the grass and the vines
+were still glittering in the morning dew, and the songs of the peasants
+were heard on all sides, cheering the beginning of their early labour.
+The marks of cultivation harmonized with the expression by which the
+scene was characterised; they were emblematic only of human happiness,
+and had a tendency to induce the momentary belief, that in this
+sequestered spot the human species shared in the fulness of universal
+joy.
+
+As we descended into the valley, we perceived a great chateau near the
+western extremity of the village of Foudrain, which appeared still to be
+inhabited, and had none of the appearance of decay by which all that we
+had hitherto seen were distinguished. It belongs to the Chevalier
+Brancas, who is proprietor of this and seven or eight of the adjoining
+villages, and whose estates extend over a great part of the surrounding
+country. On enquiry, we found that this great proprietor had, long
+before the revolution, pursued a most enlightened and indulgent conduct
+towards his peasantry, giving them leases of their houses and gardens of
+20 or 30 years, and never removing any even at the expiration of that
+period, if their conduct had been industrious during its continuance.
+The good effects of this liberal policy have appeared in the most
+striking manner, not only in the increased industry and enlarged wealth
+of the tenants; but in the moderate, loyal conduct which they pursued,
+during the eventful period of the revolution. The farmers on this estate
+are some of the richest in France; many being possessed of a capital of
+15,000 or 16,000 francs, (from £. 750 to £. 800 Sterling,) a very large
+sum in that country, and amply sufficient for the management of the
+farms which they possessed. Their houses are neat and comfortable in the
+most remarkable degree, and the farm-steadings as extensive and
+substantial as in the most improved districts of England. The ground is
+cultivated with the utmost care, and the industry of the peasants is
+conspicuous in every part of agricultural management. It was impossible,
+in comparing these prosperous dwellings with the decayed villages in
+most other parts of the country, not to discern, in the clearest manner,
+the salutary influence of individual security upon the labouring
+classes; and the tendency which the certainty of enjoying the fruits of
+their labour has, not merely in increasing their present industry, but
+awakening those wishes of improvement, and engendering those habits of
+comfort; which are the only true foundation of public happiness.
+
+During the revolution, when the peasants of all the adjoining estates
+violently dispossessed their landlords of their property; when every
+adjoining chateau exhibited a scene of desolation and ruin; the peasants
+of this estate were remarkable for their moderate and steady conduct; so
+far from themselves pillaging their seigneur, they formed a league for
+his defence "--Ils l'ont soutenùs," as they themselves expressed
+it--_and he continued throughout, and is now in the quiet possession of
+his great estate_. It is not perhaps going too far to say, that had the
+peasants throughout the country been treated with the same indulgence,
+and suffered to enjoy the same property, as in this delightful district,
+France would have been spared from all the horrors and all the
+sufferings of her revolution.
+
+From Foudrain to La Fere, the country is, for the most part, flat; and
+the road, which is shaded by lofty trees, skirts the edge of a great
+forest, which stretches as far as the eye can reach to the left; and
+joins with the forest of Villars Coterets. For many miles the road is
+bordered by fruit-trees, and the cottages have a most comfortable
+thriving appearance. To St Quentin the face of the country is flat,
+though the ridge over which you pass is high; the villages have an
+appearance of progress and opulence about them, which is rarely to be
+met with in other parts of France. All the peasantry carry on
+manufactures in their own houses; and probably their gains are very
+considerable, as their houses are much more neat and comfortable than in
+districts which are solely agricultural, and their dress bears the
+appearance of considerable wealth. The cultivation in the open country
+still continues, in general, to be wheat, barley, clover, and fallow;
+but the approach to French Flanders is very obvious, both from the
+increased quantity of rye under cultivation, from the occasional fields
+of beans which are to be met with, and from the numbers of potatoes and
+other vegetables which are to be discerned round the immediate vicinity
+of the villages. In these villages the houses are white-washed,
+surrounded by gardens, and have a smiling aspect.
+
+La Fere is a small town, surrounded with trifling fortifications,
+containing a considerable arsenal of artillery. We were much amused,
+while there, with the spectacle which the market exhibited. A great
+concourse of people had been collected from all quarters, to purchase a
+number of artillery horses which the government had exposed at a low
+price, to indemnify the people for the losses they had sustained during
+the continuance of the war. The crowds of grotesque figures which
+thronged the streets, the picturesque appearance of the horses that were
+exposed to sale, and the fierce martial aspect of the grenadiers of the
+old guard, a detachment of whom were quartered in the town, rendered
+this scene truly characteristic of the French people.
+
+St Quentin is a neat, clean, and thriving town, resembling, both in the
+forms of the houses, and the opulence of the middling classes, the
+better sort of the country towns in England. It is the seat of
+considerable manufactures, which throve amazingly under the imperial
+government, in consequence of the exclusion of the English commodities
+during the revolutionary wars. The linen manufacture is the staple
+branch of industry, and affords employment to the peasantry in their own
+houses, in every direction in the surrounding country, which is probably
+the cause of the thriving prosperous appearance by which they are
+distinguished. The great church of St Quentin, though not built in fine
+proportions, is striking, from the coloured glass of its windows, and
+its great dimensions.
+
+The French cultivation continues without any other change than the
+increased quantity of rye in the fields, and vegetables round the
+cottages, to the frontier of French Flanders. Still the country exhibits
+one unbroken sheet of corn and fallow; no inclosures are to be seen, and
+little wood varies the uniformity of the prospect. In crossing a high
+ridge which separates St Quentin from Cambray, the road passes over the
+great canal from Antwerp to Paris, which is here carried for many miles
+through a tunnel under ground. This great work was commenced under the
+administration of M. Turgot, but it was not completed till the time of
+Bonaparte, who employed in it great numbers of the prisoners whom he had
+taken in Spain. The magnitude of the undertaking may be judged of from
+the immense depth of the hollow which was cut for it, previous to the
+commencement of the tunnel, which is so great, that the canal, when seen
+from the top, has the appearance of a little stream. The course of the
+tunnel is marked on the surface of the ground by a line of chalky soil,
+which is spread above its centre, and which can be seen as far as the
+eye can reach, stretching over the vast ridge by which the country is
+traversed.
+
+At the distance of three miles from the town of Cambray, the road
+crosses the ancient frontiers of French Flanders. We had long been
+looking for this transition, to discover if it still exhibited the
+striking change described by Arthur Young, "between the effects of the
+despotism of old France, which depressed agriculture, and the free
+spirit of the Burgundian provinces, which cherished and protected it."
+No sooner had we crossed the old line of demarcation between the French
+and Flemish provinces, than we were immediately struck with the
+difference, both in the aspect of the country, the mode of cultivation,
+and the condition of the people. The features of the landscape assume a
+totally different aspect; the straight roads, the clipt elms, the
+boundless plains of France are no longer to be seen; and in their place
+succeeds a thickly wooded soil and cultivated country. The number of
+villages is infinitely increased; the village spires rise above the
+woods in every direction, to mark the antiquity and the extent of the
+population: the houses of the peasants are detached from each other, and
+surrounded with fruit trees, or gardens kept in the neatest order, and
+all the features of the landscape indicate the long established
+prosperity by which the country has been distinguished.
+
+Nor is the difference less striking in the mode of cultivation which is
+purified. Fallows, so common in France, almost universally disappear;
+and in their place, numerous crops of beans, pease, potatoes, carrots
+and endive, are to be met with. In the cultivation of these crops manual
+labour is universally employed; and the mode of cultivation is precisely
+that which is carried on in garden husbandry. The crops are uniformly
+laid out in small patches of an acre or thereby to each species of
+vegetable; which, combined with the extreme minuteness of the
+cultivation, gives the country under tillage the appearance of a great
+kitchen garden. This singular practice, which is universal in Flanders,
+is probably owing to the great use of the manual labour in the
+operations of agriculture. Rye is very much cultivated, and forms the
+staple food of the peasantry. The crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, and
+clover, struck us as exceedingly heavy, but not nearly so clean as those
+of a similar description in the best agricultural districts of our own
+country.
+
+But it is principally in the condition, manners, and comfort of the
+people, that the difference between the French and Flemish provinces
+consists. Every thing connected with the lower orders, indicates the
+influence of long-established prosperity, and the prevalence of habits
+produced by the uninterrupted enjoyment of individual opulence. The
+population of Flanders, both French and Austrian, is perfectly
+astonishing; the villages form an almost uninterrupted line through the
+country; the small towns are as numerous as villages in other parts of
+the world, and seem to contain an extensive and comfortable population.
+These small towns are particularly remarkable for the number and
+opulence of the middling classes, resembling in this, as well as other
+respects, the flourishing boroughs of Yorkshire and Kent, and affording
+a most striking contrast to those of a very opposite description, which
+we had recently passed through in France.
+
+The cottages of the peasantry, both in the villages and the open
+country, are in the highest degree, neat, dean, and comfortable; built
+for the most part of brick, and slated in the roof; nowhere exhibiting
+the slightest symptoms of dilapidation. These houses have almost all a
+garden attached to them, in the cultivation of which, the poor people
+display, not only extreme industry, but a degree of taste superior to
+what might be expected from their condition in life: The inside bore the
+marks of great comfort, both from the cleanness which every where
+prevailed, and the costly nature of the furniture with which they were
+filled. Nothing could be more pleasing than the appearance of the
+windows, every where in the best repair, large and capacious, and
+furnished with shutters on the outside, painted green, which, together
+with the bright whiteness of the walls, gave the whole the appearance of
+buildings destined for ornamental purposes, rather than the abode of the
+lower orders of the people.
+
+Cambray is a neat comfortable town, containing 15,000 inhabitants, and
+surrounded by fortifications in tolerable repair, but which, when we
+passed them, were not armed. It was once celebrated for its magnificent
+cathedral, reckoned the finest in France; but a few ruins of this great
+building alone have escaped the fury of the people, during the
+commencement of the revolution. These trifling remains, however, were
+sufficient to convey some idea of the beautiful proportions in which the
+whole had been constructed; they resembled much the finest part of
+Dryburgh Abbey, in Scotland. The modern cathedral, built near the site
+of the old one, has a mean exterior, but possesses considerable
+splendour in the inside.
+
+From Cambray to Valenciennes, the features of the country continue the
+same as those we have just described. The surface of the ground is still
+flat, and cultivated in every part with the utmost care, in the garden
+style of husbandry. We were particularly struck, in this district, by
+the quantity of drilled crops, the admirable order in which they are
+kept, and the vast numbers of people, both men, women, and children, who
+appeared engaged in their cultivation. Nothing, indeed, but the great
+demand for labour, occasioned by the use of manual labour in husbandry,
+could have produced, or could support, the great population by which
+Flanders has always been distinguished.
+
+Valenciennes, situated in one of the finest districts of Flanders, is
+likewise a well built, comfortable town, built entirely of brick, and
+surrounded by magnificent fortifications, in admirable repair. As this
+was the first well fortified town which we had seen, it was to us a
+matter of no ordinary interest, which was encreased by the remembrance
+of the celebrated siege which it had undergone from the English army at
+the commencement of the revolutionary war. We were shewn the point at
+which the English forced their entrance; and the numberless marks of
+cannon-balls which their artillery had occasioned during the siege were
+still uneffaced. Though the modern fortifications, built after the model
+of Vauban, have not the romantic or picturesque aspect which belongs to
+the aged towers of Montreuil, Abbeville, or Laon, or the more ruinous
+walls of the town of Conway in Wales, yet they present a pleasing
+spectacle, arising partly from the regularity of the forms themselves,
+and partly from the association with which they are connected.
+
+From Valenciennes to Mons, the country is still flat, though the
+cultivation and the aspect of the scene is somewhat varied from what had
+been exhibited by the districts of French Flanders, through which we had
+previously passed. It lies lower, and appears more subject to
+inundation: Ditches appear at intervals, filled with water, and
+extensive meadows are to be seen, covered with rank and luxuriant grass.
+The cultivation of grain and green crops is less frequent, and in their
+stead, vast tracks of rich pasture cover the face of the country. Much
+wood is to be seen on all sides, often of great dimensions; and the
+population appears still as great as before. The villages succeed one
+another so fast, as almost to form a continued street; and the
+numberless spires which rise over the woods in every direction, prove
+that this number of inhabitants extends over the whole country. The
+cottages still continue neat and comfortable; not picturesque to a
+painter's eye, but exhibiting the more delightful appearance of
+individual prosperity. Their beauty is much increased by the quantity
+of wood, or the variety of fruit-trees, with which the villages are
+interspersed. There are many coal-pits in this country, and a great deal
+of carriage of this valuable mineral on the principal roads. They
+present a scene of infinitely more bustle and activity than the richest
+parts of France. We met a great number of waggons, harnessed and
+equipped like those in England; and the numbers of carriages reminded
+us, in some degree, of the extraordinary appearance, in this respect,
+which the approach to our own capital presents; a state of things widely
+different from the desolate _chaussèes_ which the interior of France
+exhibits. Every thing in the small towns and villages bore the marks of
+activity, industry, and increasing prosperity. We passed with much
+interest over the celebrated field of battle of Jemappe, where the
+remains of Austrian redoubts are still visible.
+
+Mons, the frontier town of Austrian Flanders, was once a place of great
+strength, and underwent a dreadful siege during the wars of the Duke of
+Marlborough; but its ramparts are now dismantled, according to the
+ruinous policy of Joseph II. The square in the town is large, and has a
+striking appearance, owing to the picturesque and varied forms of the
+houses and public buildings of which it is formed. From the summit of
+the great steeple, to which you are conducted by a stair of 353 steps,
+there is a magnificent view over the adjacent country to a great
+distance. It is for the most part green, owing to the immense quantity
+of land under pasturage, and clothed in every direction with extensive
+woods. At a considerable distance we were shewn the woods and heights of
+_Malplaquet_, the scene of one of the Duke of Marlborough's great
+victories, of which the people still spoke, as if it had been one of the
+recent occurrences of the war. This town, when we visited it, was
+completely filled with Prussian and Saxon troops, whose intrepid martial
+appearance bespoke that undaunted character by which they have been
+distinguished in the memorable actions of which this country has since
+been the theatre.
+
+On leaving Mons, on the road to Brussels, you quit the low swampy plain
+in which the town is situated, and ascend a gentle hill, clothed with
+wood, in the openings of which many beautiful views of the spires of the
+city are to be seen. The hill itself is composed entirely of sand, and
+would be reckoned a rising ground in most other countries, but it forms
+a pleasing variety to the level plains of Flanders. From thence to
+Brussels, a distance of 35 miles, the scenery is beautiful in the
+greatest degree. Unlike the flat surface which prevails over most parts
+of this country, it is charmingly varied by hills and vallies, adorned
+by beautiful woods, whose disposition resembles rather that of trees in
+a gentleman's park, than what usually occurs in an agricultural country.
+The cottages, over the whole of this district, are particularly
+pleasing; every where white-washed, clean and comfortable; half hid by a
+profusion of fruit-trees, or the aged stems of elm and ash.
+
+Brain-le-Compte, Halle, and a number of smaller towns through which the
+road passes, are distinguished by the neatness of the houses, and the
+number and opulence of the middling classes of society. The vallies are
+admirably cultivated in agricultural or garden husbandry, and
+interspersed with numerous cottages; the gentle slopes are laid out in
+grass or pasture, and the uplands clothed with luxuriant woods. Upon the
+whole, the scenery between Mons and Brussels was the most delightful we
+had ever seen of a similar description, both from the richness and
+extent of the cultivation; the appearance of public and private
+property, which was unceasingly exhibited; the beautiful variety of the
+ground, and the charming disposition of the woods which terminate the
+view. The village spires, whose summits rise above the distant woods in
+every direction, increased the effect which the objects of nature were
+fitted to produce, both from the beauty of their forms themselves, and
+the pleasing reflections which they awaken in the mind.
+
+We passed through this beautiful country in a fine summer evening in the
+middle of June. The heat of the day had passed: The shades of evening
+were beginning to spread over the lowland country; the forest of
+Soignies was still illuminated by the glow of the setting sun, while his
+level rays shed a peaceful light over the woods which skirt the field of
+WATERLOO. We little thought that the scene, which was now expressive
+only of rest and happiness, should hereafter be the theatre of mortal
+combat: that the same sun which seemed now to set amid the blessings of
+a grateful world, should so soon illuminate a field of agony and death;
+and that the ground which we now trod with no other feelings than
+admiration for the beauty of nature, was destined to become the field of
+deathless glory to the British name.
+
+The state of agriculture from Cambray to Brussels, both in French and
+Austrian Flanders, is admirable. No fallows are any where to be seen,
+and in their place, green crops, of which beans, peas, carrots, &c. form
+the principal part. These green crops are kept very clean, and all
+worked by the spade or hoe, which furnishes employment to the immense
+population which is diffused over the country. Crops of rye, which, when
+we passed them in the middle of June, were in full ear, are every where
+very common; indeed, rye bread seems to be the staple food of the
+peasantry. Much wheat, barley, and oats, are also cultivated, with a
+great deal of sainfoin and clover, which is never pastured, but cut, and
+carried green into the stalls of the cattle. No inclosures are to be
+seen, except round the orchards and gardens which surround the villages;
+and, indeed, fences would be a useless waste of ground in a country
+where every corner is valuable, and no cattle are ever to be seen in the
+open fields. The soil seemed to be excellent throughout the whole
+country; sometimes sandy, and sometimes, a rich loam; and the crop, both
+of corn, beans, and grass, heavy and luxuriant. With the exception,
+however, of the grain crops, which are generally drilled, the fields are
+not nearly so clean as in the best parts of England.
+
+The farm steadings and implements of husbandry in all parts of Flanders,
+are greatly superior to those in France. The waggons are not only more
+numerous on the roads, but greatly neater in their construction than in
+France; the ploughs are of a better construction, and the farm offices
+both more extensive, and in better repair. Every thing, in short,
+indicated a much more improved and opulent class of agriculturists, and
+a country in which the fundamental expenses of cultivation had long been
+incurred.
+
+Near Cambray, the wages of labour are one franc a-day. Near
+Valenciennes, and from that to Mons, they are from 1 franc to 25 sous,
+that is, from 10d. to 12-1/2d. From Mons to Brussels, and round that
+town, from 1 franc to 30 sous, that is, from 10d. to 15d. The rent of
+land was stated in French Flanders at 20 francs, and the price 1000
+francs _per marcoti_; and from Valenciennes to Mons, from 35 to 50
+francs; but we could never accurately ascertain what proportion a
+marcoti bore to the English acre.
+
+The size of the farms is exceedingly various in the districts of
+Flanders which we have visited. From Cambray to Valenciennes, they were
+called from 200 to 300 _marcotis_; but from Mons to Brussels, an
+exceedingly well-cultivated district, they seldom exceed from 50 to 100
+_marcotis_; which, as far as we could judge, was not above from 25 to 50
+acres. That the size of the farms is in general exceedingly small,
+appears obviously from the immense number of farm-houses which are every
+where to be seen. The course and mode of cultivation appears to be
+precisely the same on the great and the small farms.
+
+The state of the people, both in French and Austrian Flanders, was most
+exceedingly comfortable. Not the smallest traces of dirt are to be seen,
+either in the exterior or the interior of the peasants dwellings. Their
+dress, as in France, is in general neat and substantial, covered with a
+light blue smock-frock, and without any appearance of abject want. The
+women in general appeared handsome, and very well clad. Every thing, in
+short, bespoke a rich, prosperous, and happy population.
+
+BRUSSELS is a large, populous, and in many respects a handsome town. It
+stands upon the side of a hill, the lower part being the old town, and
+the higher the fashionable quarter. Near the centre of the old town is
+placed a square of considerable size, surrounded by high antiquated
+buildings of a most remarkable construction; and the _Hotel de Ville_,
+which occupies nearly one of its sides, is ornamented by a high Gothic
+spire of the lightest form, and the most exquisite proportions. The
+Cathedral is large, and has two massy towers in front; but the effect of
+the interior, which would otherwise be very grand, from its immense
+size, is much injured by statues affixed to the pillars, and an
+intermixture of red and white colours, with which the walls are painted.
+In this Cathedral, as well as in the churches throughout Flanders which
+we visited, we were much struck by the numbers of people who attended
+service, and the earnestness with which they seemed to participate in
+religious duty;--a spectacle which was the more impressive, from the
+levity or negligence with which we had been accustomed to see similar
+services attended in France.
+
+The _Parc_, which is an immense square of splendid buildings, inclosing
+a great space, covered with fine timber, is probably the most
+magnificent square in Europe. The Royal Palace, and all the houses of
+the nobility, are here situated. There is nothing of the kind, either in
+Paris or London, which can be compared with this square, either in
+extent, the beauty of the private houses, or the richness and variety of
+the woods.
+
+At Brussels, we saw 1500 British troops on parade in the great square.
+We were particularly struck with the number and brilliant appearance of
+the officers. It would be going too far to say, that they understood
+their duty better than those of the allied armies; but they
+unquestionably have infinitely more of the appearance and manners of
+gentlemen. The proportion of officers to privates appeared much greater
+than in the other European armies; but the common soldiers had not
+nearly so sun-burnt; weather-beaten an appearance. Among the British
+troops, the Highlanders resembled most nearly the swarthy aspect of the
+foreign soldiers. The discipline of these troops was admirable; they
+were much beloved by the inhabitants, who recounted with delight
+numerous instances of their humanity and moderation. In this respect
+they formed a striking contrast to the Prussians, whose abuses and
+voracity were uniformly spoken of in terms of severe reprobation.
+
+The ramparts at Brussels, especially in the upper parts of the town, are
+planted with trees, and afford a delightful walk, commanding an
+extensive view over the adjacent country. The favourite promenade at
+Brussels, however, is the Allee Verte, situated two miles from the town,
+on the road to Antwerp, which forms a drive of two miles in length,
+under the shade of lofty trees. It was filled, when we saw it, with
+numerous parties of officers of all nations, principally German and
+British; and we could not help observing, how much more brilliant the
+appearance of our own countrymen was, than that of their brethren in any
+other service. Indeed they are taken from a different class of society:
+in the continental states, men, from inferior situations, enter the army
+with a view to obtain a subsistence; in the British service alone, men
+of rank and fortune leave the enjoyment and opulence of peaceful life,
+to share in the toils and the hardships of war.
+
+The Chateau of Lacken, now the royal dwelling, stands on an eminence in
+the vicinity of Brussels, commanding a delightful view over the environs
+of the city. There are few views in Flanders so magnificent as that from
+the summit of this palace. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, laid out in the English style, and arranged with much
+taste.
+
+The vicinity of Brussels is so much clothed with wood, as to resemble,
+when seen from the spires of the city, a continued forest. To the
+south-west, indeed, the whole country is covered with the vast forest of
+_Soignies_, clothing a range of gentle hills, which stretch as far as
+the field of Waterloo. The varieties of wood scenery which it exhibits,
+are exceedingly beautiful; and in many places, the oaks grow to an
+immense size, and present the most picturesque appearance. It was from
+this forest that Bonaparte obtained the timber for his great naval
+arsenal at Antwerp.
+
+To the south of Brussels, in the direction of Liege, and in the environs
+of that town, the country is covered with innumerable cottages, in the
+neatest order, inhabited by manufacturers, who carry on, _in their own
+houses_, the fabrics for which that city is so celebrated. These
+cottagers have all their gardens and houses in property; and the
+appearance of prosperity, which their dwellings uniformly exhibit, as
+well as the neatness of their dress, and the costly nature of their
+fare, demonstrate the salutary influence, which this intermixture of
+manufacturing and agricultural occupation is fitted to have on the
+character and habits of the lower orders of society. It resembles, in
+this particular, the state of the people in the West Riding of
+Yorkshire, and in the beautiful scenes of the vale of Gloucester.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Brussels, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their neat gardens, their substantial
+dwellings, their comfortable dress, indicated here, as elsewhere in
+Flanders, the effects of d and general prosperity. Most of these houses
+and gardens belong in property to the peasants; others are hired from
+the proprietors of the ground; but when this is the case, they generally
+have the advantage of a long lease. The peasants complained, in the
+bitterest terms, of the taxes and contributions of the French, stating
+that the public burdens had been more than quadrupled since they were
+separated from the Austrian Government, of which they still spoke in
+terms of affection and regret. The _impot fonciere_, or land-tax, under
+the French, amounted to one-fifth of the rent, or 20 _per cent_. The
+wages of labour were from 15 sous to one franc a-day; but the labourer
+dined with the farmer, his employer. Most of the land was laid out in
+garden cultivation, and every where tilled with the utmost care. The
+soil appeared rich and friable; and the crops, both of agricultural and
+garden produce, were extremely heavy. The rent was stated as varying
+from 60 to 150 francs _journatier_, which appeared to be about
+three-fourths of an acre.
+
+One thing struck us extremely in the condition of the people, both here
+and in other parts of Flanders--the sumptuous fare on which they live.
+It is a common thing to see artisans and mechanics sitting down to a
+dinner, at a table d'hôte, of ten or twelve dishes; such a dinner as
+would be esteemed excellent living in England. The lower orders of the
+people, the day labourers and peasants, seemed to live, generally
+speaking, in a very comfortable manner. Vegetables form a large portion
+of their food, and they are raised in large quantities, and great
+perfection, in all parts of the country.
+
+On leaving Brussels, we took the road to Malines and Antwerp. The
+surface of the ground the whole way is perfectly flat, and much
+intersected by canals, on whose banks much rich pasture is to be seen.
+For the first six miles, the road is varied by chateaus and villas, laid
+out in the stiff antiquated style of French gardening. The cultivation
+between Brussels and Malines is all conducted in the garden style, and
+with the most incomparable neatness; but the cottages are formed of wood
+and mud, and exhibited more symptoms of dilapidation, than in any other
+part of the country which we had seen. Whether this was the consequence
+of the materials of which they are built, or was the result of some
+local institution, we were unable to determine.
+
+We saw a body of 3000 Prussian _landwehr_ enter Brussels, shortly before
+we left the city. The appearance of these men was very striking. They
+had just terminated a march of 14 miles, under a burning sun, and were
+all covered with dust and sweat. Notwithstanding the military service in
+which they had been engaged, they still bore the appearance of their
+country occupations; their sun-burnt faces, their rugged features, and
+massy limbs, bespoke the life of laborious industry to which they had
+been habituated. They wore an uniform coat or frock, a military cap, and
+their arms and accoutrements were in the most admirable order; but in
+other respects, their dress was no other than what they had worn at
+home. The sight of these brave men told, in stronger language than words
+could convey, the grievous oppression to which Prussia had been
+subjected, and the unexampled valour with which her people had risen
+against the iron yoke of French dominion. They were not regular
+soldiers, raised for the ordinary service of the state, and arrayed in
+the costume of military life; they were not men of a separate
+profession, maintained by government for the purposes of defence; they
+were the _people of the country_, roused from their peaceful employments
+by the sense of public danger, and animated by the heroic determination
+to avenge the sufferings of their native land. The young were there,
+whose limbs were yet unequal to the weight of the arms which they had
+to bear; the aged were there, whose strength had been weakened by a life
+of labour and care; all, of whatever rank or station, marched alike in
+the ranks which their valour and their patriotism had formed. Their
+appearance suited the sacred cause in which they had been engaged, and
+marked the magnitude of the efforts which their country had made. They
+were still, in some measure, in the garb of rural life, but the
+determination of their step, the soldier-like regularity of their
+motions, and the enthusiastic expression of their countenances,
+indicated the unconquerable spirit by which they had been animated, and
+told the greatness of the sufferings which had at last awakened
+
+    "The might that slumbers in a peasant's arm."
+
+There is no spectacle in the moral history of mankind more interesting
+or more sublime, than that which was exhibited by the people of the
+north of Germany in the last war. During the progress of the disastrous
+wars which succeeded the French revolution, the states of Germany
+experienced all the miseries of protracted warfare, and all the
+degradation of conquered power; but amidst the sufferings and
+humiliation to which they were subjected, the might of Germany was
+concentrating its power; the enthusiasm of her people was animating the
+soldier's courage, and the virtue of her inhabitants was sanctifying the
+soldier's cause: and when at last the hour of retribution arrived, when
+the sufferings of twenty years were to be revenged, and the disgrace of
+twenty years was to be effaced; it was by the energy of her people that
+these sufferings were revenged, and by the sacrifices of her people,
+that these victories were obtained. Crushed as they had been beneath the
+yoke of foreign dominion; shackled as they were by the fetters of
+foreign power, and unprotected as they long continued to be from the
+ravages of hostile revenge; the people of PRUSSIA boldly threw off the
+yoke, and hesitated not to encounter all the fury of imperial ambition,
+that they might redeem the glory which their ancestors had acquired, and
+defend the land which their forefathers had preserved. While Austria yet
+hung in doubt between the contending Powers; while the fate of the
+civilized world was yet pending on the shores of the Vistula, the whole
+body of the Prussian people flew to arms; they left their homes, their
+families, and all that was dear to them, without provision, and without
+defence: they trusted in God alone, and in the justice of their cause.
+This holy enthusiasm supported them in many an hour of difficulty and of
+danger, when they were left to its support alone; it animated them in
+the bloody field of Juterbock, and overthrew their enemies on the banks
+of the Katzback; it burned in the soldier's breast under the walls of
+Leipsic, and sustained the soldier's fortitude in the plains of
+Vauchamp: it terminated not till it had planted the Prussian eagle
+victorious on the ruins of that power, which had affected to despise the
+efforts of the Prussian people.
+
+The town of Malines is exceedingly neat, and ornamented by a great
+tower, of heavy architecture, producing a striking effect from every
+part of the adjoining country. The interior of the church, like that of
+all the other Catholic churches, is impressive to an English spectator,
+from the effect of its vast dimensions. The town was entirely filled by
+Prussian soldiers, and landwehr of the Prussian corps d'armee of Bulow,
+who went through their evolutions in the exactest discipline.
+
+From Malines to Antwerp the country is under a higher system of
+management, than in any other district of Flanders which we had seen. It
+is thickly planted with trees, insomuch as, from an eminence, to have
+the appearance of a continued forest. The landscape scenery, seen
+through the openings of the wood, and generally terminating in a village
+spire, is exceedingly beautiful, and reminded us of the scenes in
+Waterloo's engravings. Great quantities of potatoes and beans are to be
+seen in the fields, which are kept in the highest state of cultivation.
+The number of villages is extremely great; but the people, though so
+numerous, had all the appearance of being in a prosperous and happy
+condition.
+
+On approaching Antwerp, the trees and houses are all cut down, to give
+room for the fire of the cannon-shot from the ramparts of the fortress.
+We passed over this desolated space in the evening, soon after sunset,
+when the spires of the city had a beautiful effect on the fading colours
+of the western sky. High over all rose the spire of the cathedral, a
+most beautiful piece of the lightest Gothic, of immense height, and the
+most exquisite proportions. Though this building has stood for seven
+centuries, the carving of the pinnacles, and the finishing of the
+ornaments, are at this moment as perfect as the day they were formed;
+and when seen in shadow on an evening sky, present a spectacle which
+combines all that is majestic and graceful in Gothic architecture.
+
+After passing through the numerous gates, and over the multiplied
+bridges which surround this fortress, we found ourselves in the interior
+of Antwerp; a city of great interest, in consequence of the warlike
+preparations of which it had been the theatre, and the importance which
+had been attached to it by both parties in the recent contest. It is an
+extensive old city, evidently formed for a much more extensive commerce
+than it has now for a long period enjoyed. The form of the houses is
+singular, grotesque and irregular, offering at every turn the most
+picturesque forms to a painter's eye. We were soon conducted to the
+famous dockyard, constructed by Bonaparte, which had been the source of
+so much uneasiness to this country; and could not help being surprised
+at the smallness of the means which he had been able to obtain for the
+overthrow of our naval power. The docks did not appear to us at all
+large; but they are very deep, and during the siege, by the English and
+Prussian troops, contained 20 ships of the line, besides 14 frigates.
+When we saw them they were lying in the Scheldt, and being all within
+two miles of each other, presented a very magnificent spectacle.
+
+In the arsenal were 14 ships of the line on the stocks, of which seven
+were of 120 guns; but these vessels were all demolished except one,
+shortly after we left them, in virtue of an article in the treaty of
+Paris. Bonaparte had for long been exerting himself to the utmost to
+form a great naval depot at Antwerp; he had not only fortified the town
+in the strongest possible manner, but collected immense quantities of
+timber and other naval stores for the equipment of a powerful fleet. The
+ships first built, however, had been formed of wood, which was so ill
+seasoned, that, ever since their construction, above 200 carpenters had
+been employed annually to repair the beams which were going to decay.
+
+In the citadel, which is a beautiful fortification in the finest order,
+we conversed with various English soldiers who had been in the attack on
+Bergen-op-Zoom, of which they all spoke in terms of the utmost horror.
+Its failure they ascribed not to any error in the plan of attack, which
+they all agreed was most skilfully combined, but to a variety of
+circumstances which thwarted the attack, after its success appeared to
+have been certain. Our troops, they said, went round the ramparts, and
+carried every battery; but neglecting to spike the guns, the French came
+behind them, and turned the guns they had recently captured against
+themselves. Much also was attributed to the hesitation occasioned by the
+death of the principal officers, and the unfortunate effect of the
+discovery of some spirit cellars, from which the soldiers could not be
+restrained. We were much gratified, by hearing the warm and enthusiastic
+manner in which even the private soldiers spoke of their gallant
+commander, Sir Thomas Graham; While we admired the frank, open and
+independent spirit which these English soldiers in garrison at Antwerp
+evinced, we could not help observing, that they did not converse on
+military matters with nearly the same intelligence, or evince the same
+reflection on the manoeuvres of war, as those of the French imperial
+guard, with whom we had spoken in a former part of our journey.
+
+Though such extensive naval preparations had been going forward for
+years at Antwerp, there was not the slightest appearance of bustle at
+activity in the streets, or on the quays of the city. These were as
+deserted, as if Antwerp had been reduced to a fishing village,
+indicating, in the strongest manner, that nothing but the habits of
+commerce, and the command of the seas, can nurse that body of active
+seamen, who form the only foundation of naval power.
+
+There is a fine picture, by Oels, in the church of St Paul's at Antwerp;
+but the church itself is built in the most barbarous taste. The
+cathedral is a most magnificent building, both in the outside and
+inside; and its spire, which is 460 feet in height, is probably the
+finest specimen of light Gothic in the world. Its immense aisles were
+filled at every hour of the day, by numbers of people, who seemed to
+join in the service with sincere devotion, and exhibited the example of
+a country, in which religious feeling was generally diffused among the
+people--which formed a striking contrast to the utter indifference to
+these subjects which universally prevails in France.
+
+It was not a mere vain threat on the part of Napoleon, that he would
+burn the English manufactures. We were informed at Antwerp by
+eye-witnesses, that they had seen £. 90,000 worth of English goods
+burnt at once in the great square of that city; all of which _had been
+bought and paid for_ by the Flemish merchants. The people then spoke in
+terms of great sorrow, of the ruin which this barbarous policy had
+brought upon the people of the countries in which it was carried into
+effect.
+
+In the vicinity of Antwerp, we walked over the _Counter Dyke of
+Couvestein_, which was the scene of such desperate conflicts between the
+army of the Prince of Parma, and the troops of the United Provinces, who
+were advancing to the relief of Antwerp. The interest arising from the
+remembrance of this memorable struggle, was increased by the narrowness
+of the ground on which the action was maintained, being a long dyke
+running across the low country which borders the banks of the Scheldt
+near Fort Lillo, and which alone of all the surrounding country, at the
+time of the action, was not immersed in water. Every foot, therefore, of
+the ground of this dyke which we trod, must have been the spot on which
+a desperate struggle had been maintained. In casting our eyes back to
+the distant spires of the city of Antwerp, we could not help entering
+for an instant, into the feelings of the people who were then besieged;
+and remembering that these spires, which now rose so beautifully on the
+distant horizon, were then crowded with people, who awaited with
+dreadful anxiety, in the issue of the action which was then pending, the
+future fate of themselves and their children.
+
+To those who take an interest in the delightful study of political
+economy, and who have examined the condition of the people in different
+countries, with a view to discover the causes of their welfare or their
+suffering, there is no spectacle so interesting as that which the
+situation of the people in Flanders affords. The country is uniformly
+populous in the extreme; go where you will, you every where meet with
+the marks of a dense population; yet no where are the symptoms of
+general misery to be found; no where does the principle of population
+seem to press beyond the limits assigned for the comfortable maintenance
+of the human species. Flanders has exhibited, for centuries, the
+instance of a _numerous, dense, and happy population_. It would perhaps
+not be unreasonable to conclude, from this circumstance, that the
+doctrines now generally admitted in regard to the increase of the human
+species have been received with too little examination. Man possesses
+in himself the principles requisite for the regulation of the increase
+of the numbers of mankind; and where the influence of government does
+not interfere with their operation, they are sufficient to regulate the
+progress of population according to the interest and welfare of all
+classes of the people.
+
+
+END OF VOLUME FIRST.
+
+EDINBURGH: Printed by JOHN PILLANS, James's Court.
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS 1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX, AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREADIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52, PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK, PARRY AND CO. T.
+UNDERWOOD, LONDON; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO AIX.
+
+
+IT was thought advisable, by the gentleman who is now about to commence
+his journal, to avoid making many remarks on the state of the country,
+or the manners of the inhabitants, until he should have remained fixed
+for a few months in France. In no country is it so difficult as there,
+to obtain information regarding the most interesting points, whether
+commerce, manufactures, agriculture, manners, or religion; and this
+arises from the multitude of people of all descriptions, who are
+willing, and who at least appear able, to afford you information.
+Strange paradox. A Frenchman makes it a rule, never to refuse
+information on any subject when it is demanded of him; and although he
+may, in fact, never have directed his attention to the matter in
+question, and may not possess the slightest information, he will yet
+descant most plausibly, and then seeking some opportunity of bidding you
+good day, he will fly off with the velocity of an arrow, leaving you
+astonished at the talent displayed: But sit down and analyse what he has
+said, and you will commonly find it the most thorough trifling--"_vox et
+proeterea nihil_." This observation, however, I mean only to apply to the
+information which a traveller obtains _en passant_; for there are
+undoubtedly to be found in France, men of eminent talents and of solid
+information; but these you can only pick out from the mass of common
+acquaintances, by dint of perseverance, and by the assistance of time.
+The result of the observations collected during a residence of five
+months at Aix, in Provence, will be given at the end of the following
+Journal.
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+As our present journey was undertaken principally for the benefit of my
+health, it was necessary that we should travel slowly, and take
+occasional rests. After our journey from Dieppe to the capital, we
+remained five days in Paris for this purpose. The first part of this
+book having conducted the reader by another route to Paris, and given a
+better description of that city than I am able to supply, I have not
+thought it necessary to insert the details of our journey thither; I
+shall content myself with remarking, that we had already gained
+considerable experience in French travelling, and were pretty well
+prepared to commence our journey toward the south.--On the 7th of
+November, therefore, we arranged matters for our departure with the
+_voiturier_, or carriage-hirer, who agrees to carry us (six in number),
+with all our baggage, which weighs nearly four cwt. to Lyons, a distance
+of 330 miles, for the sum of 630 francs, or, at our exchange, nearly
+L.30. As this bargain was made for us by Mr B----, a French gentleman,
+it may afford a good standard for this style of travelling.
+
+We travel at the rate of 10 or 12 leagues a-day; and for invalids or
+persons wishing to see the country, this is by far the most pleasant, as
+well as the most economical way. There are two other methods of
+travelling, namely, _en poste_, which, though rapid, is very expensive;
+the charge being, at least a horse, often more, for each person, and
+very little baggage being taken; and the other is in a diligence, which,
+as it travels night and day, would not do for us. The carriage we now
+have is a large and commodious coach, very neat and clean, and we have
+three good strong horses. Our journey has as yet been varied by very
+little incident. The amusement derived from travelling in a foreign
+country, and becoming gradually familiarised to foreign manners,--the
+contrast between the style of travelling here, and that which you are
+accustomed to in England,--the amusing groupes of the villagers, who
+flock out of their houses, to see the English pass,--the grotesque and
+ludicrous figures of the French beggars, who, in the most unbounded
+variety of costume, surround the carriage the moment we stop,--and the
+solemn taciturnity of Monsieur Roger, our coachman, who is an
+extraordinary exception to the general vivacity of his nation; these are
+the only circumstances which serve at present to exhilarate our spirits,
+and to remove the tedium of French travelling.
+
+Between Paris and Montargis, as we travelled during the day, we had a
+good opportunity of seeing the country. But we passed through it, to be
+sure, at an unfavourable season of the year. The vines were all
+withered, and their last leaves falling off. The elm, oak, and maple,
+were almost bare. There is not much fine wood in that part of the
+country through which we passed; and on the side of the road, there were
+many wild and sad looking swamps, with nothing but willow and poplars
+docked off for the twigs. The chief produce seems to be in grapes and
+wheat; the wheat here is further advanced than between Dieppe and Paris.
+The cows are of the same kind, the horses smaller, weaker, and yet
+dearer than those of Normandy; the agricultural instruments are massy
+and awkward; their ploughing is, however, very neat and regular, though
+not deep; their plough here has wheels, and seems easily managed; they
+harrow the land most effectually, having sometimes 10 or 12 horses in
+succession, each drawing a separate harrow over the same ground. The
+farm-horses, though very poor to an English eye, are fortunately much
+better than the horses for travelling. The stacks of grain, though
+rarely seen, are very neatly built. We left the grand road at
+Fontainbleau, and took the route by Nevers to Lyons. We have found it
+hitherto by no means equal to the other. No stone causeway in the
+middle, and at this time of the year, I should fear it is always as we
+found it, very heavy and dirty.
+
+Our journey hitherto has not allowed of our mixing much among or
+conversing with the people; but still we cannot but be struck with the
+dissimilarity of manners from those of our own country. The French are
+not now uniformly, found the same merry, careless, polite, and sociable
+people they were before the revolution; but we may trust that they are
+gradually improving; and although one can easily distinguish among the
+lower ranks, the fierce uncivilized ruffians, who have been raised from
+their original insignificance by Napoleon to work his own ends, yet the
+real peasantry of the country are generally polite.
+
+At the inns, the valets and ostlers were for the most part old soldiers
+who had marched under Napoleon; they seemed happy, or at least always
+expressed themselves happy, at being allowed to return to their homes:
+one of them was particularly eloquent in describing the horrors of the
+last few months; he concluded by saying, "that had things gone on in
+this way for a few months longer, Napoleon must have made the women
+march." They affirm, however, that there is a party favourable to
+Bonaparte, consisting of those whose trade is war, and who have lived by
+his continuance on the throne; but that this party is not strong, and
+little to be feared: Would that this were true! When we were in Paris,
+there were a number of caricatures ridiculing the Bourbons; but these
+miserable squibs are no test of the public feeling. Napoleon certainly
+has done much for Paris; the marks of his magnificence are there every
+where to be seen; but the further we travel, the more are we convinced
+that he has done littler for the interior of the country.
+
+There is about every town and village an air of desolation; most of the
+houses seem to have wanted repairs for a long time. The inns must strike
+every English traveller, as being of a kind entirely new to him. They
+are like great old castles half furnished. The dirty chimneys suit but
+ill with the marble chimney-pieces, and the gilded chairs and mirrors,
+plundered in the revolution; the tables from which you eat are of ill
+polished common wood; the linen coarse though clean. The cutlery, where
+they have any, is very bad; but in many of the inns, trusting, no doubt,
+to the well known expedition of French fingers, they put down only forks
+to dinner.
+
+We left Montargis at seven in the morning, and travelled very slowly
+indeed. At five o'clock, after a very tedious journey, we arrived at
+Briare, a distance of only 27 miles from Montargis. The landlord here
+was the most talkative, and the most impudent fellow I ever saw.
+Although demanding the most unreasonable terms, he would not let us
+leave his house; at last he said that he would agree to our terms,
+namely, 18 francs for our supper and beds: It is best to call it supper
+in France, as this is their own phrase for a meal taken at night.
+
+The road between Montargis and Briare, though not of hard mettle and
+without causeway, is yet level and in good condition. The country,
+except in the immediate vicinity of Briare, is flat and uninteresting;
+no inclosures; the soil of a gravelly nature, mixed in some parts with
+chalk. It seems, from the stubble of last year and the young wheat of
+this, to be very poor indeed. There is here an odd species of wheat
+cultivation, in which the grain, like our potatoes, is seen growing on
+the tops of high separate ridges. It struck me that the deep hollows
+left between each ridge, might be intended to keep the water. The
+instruments of agriculture are quite the same as we have seen all along.
+Almost all of the peasants whom we saw to-day wore cocked hats, and had
+splendid military tails; we supposed, at first that they had all
+_marched_. There are great numbers of soldiers returning to their homes,
+pale, broken down and wearied. Some of them very polite, many of them
+rough and ruffian-looking enough. About Briare, there are innumerable
+vineyards, and yet we had very bad grapes; but that was our landlord's
+fault, not that of the vines.
+
+The rooms at this inn (Au Grand Dauphin), smoke like the devil, or
+rather like his abode. It is a wretched place; the inn opposite, called
+La Poste, is said to be better. The weather is now as cold here (10th of
+November), as I have ever felt it in winter at home, and it is a more
+piercing and searching cold.
+
+We had last night a good deal of rain. The weather is completely broken
+up, and we are at least three weeks or a month later than we ought to
+have been.
+
+* * *
+
+We have arrived at Cosne to-night, (the 11th), after a journey through a
+country better wooded, more varied, and upon the whole, finer than we
+have seen yet on this side of Paris, though certainly not so beautiful
+as Normandy. The road is pretty good, though not paved, excepting in
+small deep vallies. It lies along-side of the river Loire, and on each
+side, there are well cultivated fields, chiefly of wheat, but
+interspersed with vineyards.
+
+For the first time, this day we had a very severe frost in the morning,
+but with the aid of the sun, which shone bright and warm, we enjoyed one
+of the finest days I ever saw. I sat and chatted with the coachman, or
+rather with Monsieur le Voiturier. I led the conversation to the past
+and present state of France, and the character of Napoleon, and
+immediately he, who till this moment appeared to be as meek and gentle
+as a lamb, became the most eloquent and energetic man I have seen. It is
+quite wonderful, how the feelings of the people, added to their habits
+of extolling their own efforts, and those of Bonaparte, supply them with
+language. They are on this subject all orators. He declared, that Paris
+was sold by Marmont and others, but that we English do not understand
+what the Parisians mean when they say that Paris was sold. They do not
+mean that any one was paid for betraying his trust by receiving a bribe,
+but that Marmont and others having become very rich under Bonaparte,
+desired to spend their fortunes in peace, and had, therefore, deserted
+their master. He said that Bonaparte erred only in having too many
+things to do at once; but that if he had either relinquished the Spanish
+war for a while, or not gone to Moscow, no human power would have _been
+a match for him_, and even we in England would have felt this. He seemed
+to think, that it was an easy thing for Bonaparte to have equipped as
+good a navy as ours. He was quite insensible to the argument, that it
+was first necessary to have commerce, which nourishes our mariners, from
+among whom we have our fighting seamen. He said, that though _this was a
+work of years for others, it would have been nothing for Napoleon_: In
+short, he venerates the man, and says, that till the day when he left
+Paris, he was the greatest of men. He says, he knows well that there is
+still a strong party favourable to him among the military; yet that if
+they can once be set down at their own firesides, they will never wish
+to quit them, but that the danger will be, while they remain together in
+great bodies.
+
+To-day we saw several soldiers wounded, and returning to their homes in
+carts; they were fierce swarthy looking fellows, but very merry, and
+travelled singing all the way. To-morrow we expect to be at Nevers. At
+Cosne, the only objects of curiosity to the traveller are the
+manufactories of cutlery and ship anchors. The cutlery seems as good as
+any we have seen, but far inferior to even our inferior English cutlery:
+It is also dear. Thousands of boxes, with cutlery, were, immediately on
+our arrival at the inn, presented to us. Their great deficiency is in
+steel, for their best goods are nearly as highly polished as in England.
+We bought here some very pretty little toys for children, made of small
+coloured beads. We start to-morrow at six.----Distance about 19
+miles to Cosne.
+
+* * *
+
+This day's journey (the 12th), was the most fatiguing and the least
+interesting we have had. The country between Cosne and Nevers is, with
+the exception of one or two fine views from the heights on the road, the
+poorest, and, though well cultivated, has the least pretensions to
+beauty of any we have seen, particularly in the vicinity of Pouilly. It
+seems also to be nearly as poor as it is ugly. The soil is gravelly,
+with a mixture of chalk, and there occurs what I have not yet elsewhere
+seen, a great deal of fallow land, and even some common. The face of the
+country is considerably diversified by old wood, but we have only seen
+one plantation of young trees since we left Paris. The instruments of
+agriculture and carriage the same as before mentioned. The farm horses
+good. There seems a scarcity of milk, but this may be from the winter
+having set in. At the inn here I met with a young officer, who although
+only (to appearance) 17 or 18, had been in the Spanish war, at Moscow,
+and half over the world. He struck his forehead, when he said, [4]"Nous
+n'avons plus la guerre." There were at the inn here a number of officers
+and soldiers of the cavalry. Their horses are not to be compared with
+ours, either in size or beauty, and those of their officers are not so
+good, by any means, as the horses of our men in the guards.----
+Distance, 34 miles--to Nevers.
+
+* * *
+
+We went to walk in the town this morning, the 13th. The description of
+one French town on the Sunday will serve for all which we have seen.
+They are every day sufficiently filthy, but on Sunday, from the
+concourse of people, more than commonly so. They never have a pavement
+to fly to for clean walking, and for safety from the carriages. If you
+are near a shop, a lane, or entry when a carriage comes along, you may
+fly in, if not, you must trust to the civility of the coachman, who, if
+polite, will only splash you all over. On Sundays, their markets are
+held the same as on other days, and nearly all the shops had their doors
+open, but _their windows shut_. Thus they cheat the Devil, and, as they
+think, render sufficient homage to him who hath said, on that day "thou
+shalt do no manner of work." Yet while all this is going on, the
+churches are open, and those who are inclined go in, and take a minute,
+a quarter, half an hour, or an hour's devotion, as they think fit. We
+entered the nearest of these churches, and saw, what is always to be
+seen in them, a great deal, at least, of the outward shew of religion,
+and something in a few individuals of the congregation which looked like
+real devotion. After church, we went to the convent of St Mary, and were
+all admitted, both ladies and gentlemen. The nuns there are not, by any
+means, strictly confined; they are of that description who go abroad and
+attend the sick. Their pensioners (chiefly children from four to
+sixteen) are allowed to go and see their friends; and they were all
+presented to us. They are taught to read, write, work, &c. and are well
+fed and clothed. This convent was very neat and clean. The building
+formed a complete square, and the ground in the interior was very
+beautifully laid out as a garden. The cloisters were ornamented with
+pots of roses and carnations in full bloom, with the care of which the
+young pensioners amused themselves. They have a very pretty small
+chapel, over the outer door of which is written, [5]"Grand silence;" and
+over the inner this inscription; whose menacing promises is so ill
+suited to the spirit and temper of its conclusion: "Ah, que ce maison
+est terrible, c'est la maison de Dieu, et la porte du ciel." The holy
+sisters were of all ages, and many of them pretty--one, the handsomest
+woman I have seen in France.
+
+The ladies are just returned from a longer walk, and report the town to
+be ugly, and the streets insufferably dirty. Its manufactures are china,
+glass, and enamelled goods; toys of glass beads, and little trifles. The
+shopkeepers are, as in every town we have been at, perfect Jews, devoid
+of any thing like principle in buying and selling. We are every day
+learning more and more how to overcome our scruples with regard to
+_beating them down_. They always expect it, and only laugh at those who
+do not practise it.
+
+* * *
+
+This day we left Nevers at six in the morning. It appears to be a large
+town, when viewed from the bridge over which we crossed; but it is far
+from being a fine town in the interior. The streets are, like all French
+streets, narrow, and the houses have a look of antiquity, and a want of
+all repair; nothing like comfort, neatness, or tidiness, in any one of
+them. This is a melancholy desideratum in France, a want for which
+nothing can compensate. The road this day conducted us through a finer
+district than we have observed on this side of Paris; more especially
+between Nevers and St Pierre, where we have travelled through a richer
+and more beautiful country than we have yet seen. No longer the sand,
+and gravel, and chalk, which we have long been accustomed to, but a dark
+rich soil over a bed of freestone. Here also all the land is well
+enclosed. I have not yet been able to find the reason of this sudden
+change in the manner of preserving the fields: The face of the country
+is also more generally wooded; but from the necessity the French are
+under of cutting down whatever wood they find near the towns for their
+fires, all the fine trees are ruined in appearance, by their branches
+being lopped off: The effect of this on the appearance of the country is
+very sad.--Still we find a want of that agreeable alternation of hill
+and dale, of the enclosed meadows, and wooded vallies; of the broad and
+beautiful rivers and the small winding streams, which, as the finest
+features in their native landscape, have become necessary to a Scotch or
+an English eye.
+
+The dress of the women is here different from what we have elsewhere
+seen: the peasants' wives wearing large gipsey straw hats, very much
+turned up behind and before; the men have still the immense
+broad-brimmed black felt affairs, more like umbrellas than Christian
+hats. At the inn here, I saw a number of wounded soldiers returning to
+their homes; one of them, I observed, had his feet outside of his shoes.
+On entering into conversation with him, he told me that his toes had
+been nearly frozen off, but _that he expected to get them healed_: poor
+fellow, he was not above twenty. He told me that all the _young
+conscripts_ were delighted to return to their homes, and that only the
+old veterans were friends to the war.--I hope this may be true, but I
+doubt it. The country here shows that the winter is not so far advanced;
+many of the trees are still green; the roads had become heavy with the
+rain that has fallen; we have had two days hard frost, but to-day the
+weather is mild, and the air moist. We were recommended to the Hotel des
+Allies here, but preferred stopping at the first good-looking inn we
+found, as in great towns things are very dear at the houses of great
+resort; we have had a very good supper and tolerable lodgings for 18
+francs.
+
+To-morrow, we set out at seven.--We find our way of travelling tedious;
+but I think in summer it would be by far the best. Our three horses
+seldom take less than 10, sometimes 13 hours to their day's journey, of
+from 28 to 32 miles; but our carriage is large and roomy; and had we any
+thing like comfort at our inns, as at home, we should find the
+travelling very pleasant. The greatest annoyance arises from your having
+always to choose from the two evils, of being either shamefully imposed
+upon, or of having to bargain before-hand for the price of your
+entertainment.
+
+* * *
+
+It was near eight o'clock this morning, the 16th, before we got under
+weigh, and according to our coachman's account, we had been delayed by
+the horses being too much fatigued the night before. He continued to
+proceed so slowly, that we only reached Varrenes at four o'clock, a
+distance of 22 miles from Moulins, where we had last slept. Moulins is
+the finest town we have seen since we left Paris. The streets are there
+wider, and the houses, though old and black, are on a much better plan,
+and in better repair than any we have passed through; there is also
+somewhat of neatness and cleanliness about them. It is famous for its
+cutlery, and has a small manufacture of silk stockings; we saw some of
+the cutlery very neat and highly polished in some parts, but coarse and
+ill finished in others. The variety of shapes which the French give
+their knives is very amusing.
+
+The road between Moulins and Varrenes is through a much prettier country
+than we have seen since we left Paris; there is more wood, with
+occasional variety of orchards and vineyards and corn fields. The
+ploughing, is here carried on by bullocks, and these are also used in
+the carts. All the country is enclosed, and the lands well dressed. The
+wheat is not nearly so far advanced here, which must arise from its
+being more lately sowed, for the winter is only commencing; many of the
+trees are still in fall leaf.
+
+We cannot well judge of any change of climate, as we have just had a
+change from hard frost to thaw; but every thing has the appearance of a
+milder atmosphere. I enquired into the reason of the want of hedges
+hitherto, and their abundance here, and was told, that it arose from the
+greater subdivision of property as well as from the number of cows: that
+every man almost had his little piece of land, and his cow, pigs, hens,
+&c. and that they could not afford to have herds. The yoke of the
+bullocks here, is not, as in India, and in England, placed on the neck
+and shoulders, but on the forehead and horns: this, though to appearance
+the most irksome to the poor animals, is said here to be the way in
+which they work best. The sheep are very small, and of a long-legged and
+poor kind: the hogs are the poorest I have ever seen; they are as like
+the sheep as possible, though with longer legs, and resembling
+greyhounds in the drawn-up belly and long slender snout; they seem
+content with wondrous little, and keep about the road sides, picking up
+any thing but wholesome food.
+
+The cottages on the road, and in the small towns, are generally very
+dirty, and inhabited by a very motley and promiscuous set of beings; the
+men, women, children, indeed pigs, fowls, &c. all huddled together. The
+pigs here appear so well accustomed to a cordial welcome in the houses,
+that when by chance excluded, you see them impatiently rapping at the
+door with their snouts.
+
+* * *
+
+We left Varrenes this morning, at six o'clock, and entered on a new
+country, which presented to us a greater variety of scenery. The road
+between Varrenes and St Martin D'Estreaux is almost all the way among
+the hills, which are often covered to the top with wood. After
+travelling for so long a time through a country which was almost
+uniformly flat, our sensations were delightful in again approaching
+something like a hilly district. The roads we found extremely bad, and
+although we have had rain, I do not think that their condition is to be
+ascribed to the weather. They want repair, and appear to have been
+insufficient in their metal from the first. We were obliged here to have
+a fourth horse, which our coachman ordered and paid for; he went with us
+as far as Droiturier, and then left us. We made out 28 miles of bad
+road, between six in the morning and four in the evening. The hilly
+country throughout is extremely well cultivated, and the soil apparently
+pretty good. France has indeed shewn a different face from what an
+Englishman would expect, after such a draining of men and money.
+
+In our route to-day, the country became very interesting, the swelling
+hills were beautiful, and the first clear stream we have seen in France
+winded through a wooded valley, along whose side we travelled. Many
+little cottages were scattered up and down in the green intervals of the
+woods, or crept up the brows of the hills; and after the monotonous
+plains we had passed, the whole scene was truly delightful. At the inn
+at La Palisse, I met with a very pleasant French lady, who strongly
+advised me to avoid Montpellier, as the winds there are very sharp in
+winter; she said two friends of her's had been sent from it on account
+of complaints contracted there. She recommended Nice.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Thursday_, 17th.)--The road to-day was through ranges of hills, and,
+for the latter part of it, we were obliged to have a fourth horse. The
+road very heavy in most places, and in some wretchedly ill-paved, with
+stones of unequal size, and not squared. From the top of these hills the
+view of the several vallies through which we passed was very beautiful,
+though certainly not equal in beauty to Devonshire, or to some parts of
+Perthshire, and other of the more fertile districts in Scotland: the
+soil far from good, and the crops of wheat thin;--yet there is not an
+atom of the soil lying waste, the hills being cultivated up to the
+summit. The cultivation is still managed by oxen, as is the carriage of
+farm produce, and all kinds of cart-work. They have had a sad mortality
+among the cattle about St Germain L'Epinàsse; and all things appear to
+have been affected by this disaster, for we found the milk, butter,
+fowls, grain, every thing very dear indeed. In France, when a disease
+seizes the cattle, parties of soldiers are sent to prevent the people
+from selling their cattle, or sending them to other parts of the
+country. One of these parties (a small troop of dragoons) we met on the
+road.
+
+On our route to-day, we crossed the Loire at a pretty large and busy
+town, called Roanne. The river here is very large, but has only a wooden
+bridge over it: there are some fine arches, forming the commencement of
+a most magnificent new stone bridge, the work of Napoleon; the work had
+the appearance of having been some time interrupted. Alas, that the good
+King cannot continue such works!
+
+Here, for the first time, we saw coals, and in great quantity; the boats
+on which they are carried, are long, square flat-bottomed boxes.
+Although in a mountainous country, and with a poor soil, the houses of
+the peasants were here much better than any we have seen, though a good
+deal out of repair; they are high and comfortable, having many of them
+two flats, and all with windows. We saw a number of fields in which the
+people were turning up and dressing the soil with spades: This, and
+indeed many other things in this mountainous part of the country,
+reminded me of parts of the Highlands of Scotland, and the island of St
+Helena. But it would not be easy to conceive yourself transported to
+those parts of the world, when here you every now and then encounter a
+peasant in a cocked hat, with a red velvet coat, or with blue velvet
+breeches: this proclaims us near Lyons, the country of silks and
+velvets. The climate is very delightful at present; during a great part
+of to-day, I sat on the box with _Monsieur le Voiturier_, who is now
+become so attached to us, that I think he will go with us to our
+journey's end. He is a most excellent, sober and discreet man, and has
+given us no trouble, and ample satisfaction. To-day, we passed two very
+pretty clear streams. The country seats are numerous here, but none of
+those that we have yet seen are fine; they are either like the very old
+English manor-houses, or if of a later date, are like large
+manufactories; a mass of regular windows, and all in ruinous condition;
+nothing like fine architecture have we yet met with. To-morrow we start
+again at six, and hope to sleep within four leagues of Lyons.----
+Distance 34 miles--to St Simphorien de Lay.
+
+* * *
+
+This morning, we set off, as usual, at six, and only made out in five
+hours a distance of 16 miles, arriving at the small town of Tarrare,
+which is beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. This difficulty
+in travelling is occasioned by the road being extremely precipitous. It
+winds, however, for several miles very beautifully through the valley,
+by the banks of a clear stream; and the hills which rise on each side,
+are in many places cultivated to the top, while others are richly
+wooded: towards the bases they slope into meadows, which are now as
+green as in the middle of summer, and where the cows are grazing by the
+water-side. The air is warm and pleasant, the sky unclouded, and the
+light of a glorious sun renders every object gay and beautiful. This
+valley is, I think, much more beautiful than any part of France we have
+yet seen. Through the passes in the hills, we have had some very fine
+peeps at the country to which we are travelling. Every inch of the
+ground on these mountains is turned to good account; as the grass, from
+the soil and exposure, is very scanty, the peasants make use of the same
+method of irrigating as at St Helena. Where there is found a spring of
+water, they form large reservoirs into which it is received, and from
+these reservoirs they lead off small channels, which overflow the field,
+and give an artificial moisture to the soil. The houses of the peasants
+are still excellent, but there appears a great want of cattle. The
+fields are ploughed with oxen, very small and lean; we had two of them
+to assist us on the way from St Simphorien to Pain Bouchain.
+
+At Tarrare, I am sorry to say, we found a want of almost every comfort.
+It is a pretty large town, neater in exterior appearance than any we
+have seen, but very dirty within; it is famous for its muslins and
+calicoes.----All this day we have had nothing but constant ascending
+and descending; the country occasionally very fine, and always well
+cultivated. The ploughs here are very small and ill made; they have no
+wheels, and are drawn by oxen. Some of the valleys in our route to-day
+would be beyond any thing beautiful, if varied with a few of those fine
+trees, which we are accustomed to meet with every day in England and
+Scotland; but the manner in which the French trees are cut, clipped, and
+hacked, renders them very disgusting to our eyes. I have not seen one
+truly fine tree since we left Paris, about the environs of which there
+are a few. There is also a great scarcity of gentlemen's seats, of
+castles and other buildings, and of gardens of every kind. France, one
+would suppose, ought to be the country of flowers; but not one flower
+garden have we yet seen.----Distance about 31 miles--to the
+Half-way-House, between Arras and Salvagny.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Saturday, 18th._)--We left the inn at the half-way village, whose name
+I forgot to ask, between Arras and Salvagny, at six this morning, and
+arrived at Lyons at half-past ten. On the subject of to-day's route very
+little can be said. The first part of it conducted over a long
+succession of very steep hills, for about four miles, after which we
+descended through a fine varied country to the city of Lyons.----
+Distance, 16 miles to Lyons.
+
+Lyons is certainly a fine town, although, like Paris, it has only a few
+fine public buildings, among a number of very old and ruinous-looking
+houses. It is chiefly owing to the ideas of riches and commerce with
+which both of these towns _are connected_, that we would call them
+_fine_, for they have neither fine streets nor fine ranges of houses. I
+need not mention, that Lyons is the place of manufacture for all kinds
+of silks, velvets, ribbons, fringes, &c. But here, as at many
+manufactories, things bought by retail are as dear, or even dearer, than
+at Paris. The ladies of our party had built castles in the air all the
+way to Lyons; but they found every thing dearer than at Paris, and
+almost as dear as in England.
+
+Now that I have seen a little of the manners and dress of the people in
+the two largest towns in France, I may hazard a few observations on
+these subjects. I think it is chiefly among the lower ranks that the
+superior politeness of the French is apparent. Although you still find
+out the ruffians and banditti who have figured on the stage under
+Napoleon, yet the greater, by far the greater number, are mild,
+cheerful, and obliging. A common Frenchman, in the street, if asked the
+way to a place, will generally either point it out very clearly, or say,
+"Allow me to accompany you, Sir." Among the higher ranks of society you
+will find many obliging people; but you will also discover many whose
+situation alone can sanction your calling them gentlemen. There
+appears, moreover, in France, to be a sort of blending together of the
+high and low ranks of society, which has a bad effect on the more
+polite, without at all bettering the manners of the more uncivilized. To
+discover who are gentlemen, and who are not, without previously knowing
+something of them, or at least entering into conversation, is very
+difficult. In England, all the middling ranks dress so well, that you
+are puzzled to find out the gentleman. In France, they dress so ill in
+the higher ranks, that you cannot distinguish them from the lower. One
+is often induced to think, that those must be gentlemen who wear orders
+and ribbons at their buttons, but, alas! almost every one in France at
+the present day has one of these ribbons. In the dress of the women
+there is still less to be found that points out the distinction of their
+ranks. To my eye, they are all wretchedly ill dressed, for they wear the
+same dark and dirty-looking calicoes which our Scotch maid-servants wear
+only on week days. This gives to their dress an air of meanness; but
+here the English ought to consider, that these cotton goods are in
+France highly valued, and very dear, from their scarcity. Over these
+dresses they wear (at present) small imitation shawls, of wool, silk,
+or cotton. They have very short petticoats, and shew very neat legs and
+ankles, but covered only with coarse cotton stockings, seldom very
+white; often with black worsted stockings. I have not seen one
+handsomely dressed woman as yet in France; the best had always an air of
+shabbiness about her, which no milliner's daughter at home would shew.
+They are said to dress much more gaily in the evening. When we mix a
+little more in French society, we shall be able to judge of this.
+
+This want of elegance and richness in dress, is, I think, one of the
+marks of poverty in France. I have mentioned before the ruinous
+appearance of the villages and houses. The excessive numbers of beggars
+is another. The French themselves say that there is a great want of
+money in France; they affirm that there is no scarcity of men, and that
+with more money the French could have fought for many years to come.
+They certainly are the vainest people in the universe; they have often
+told me, _that could Bonaparte have continued his blockade of the
+Continental trade a few months more, England would have been undone_.
+They sometimes confess, that they would have been rather at a loss for
+Coffee, Sugar, and Cotton, had we continued our war with the Americans,
+who were their carriers. The want of the first of these articles would
+annoy any country, but in France they cannot live without it: in England
+they might.
+
+* * *
+
+This day, _Monday_ the 20th, we left Lyons at one o'clock in the
+forenoon, travelling in most unfavourable weather, and through almost
+impassable streets. The situation of Lyons is beautiful; the site of the
+town is at the conflux of the Soane and the Rhone; a fine ridge of hills
+rises behind the city; the innumerable houses which are scattered up and
+down the heights, the fine variety of wood and cultivation, and the
+little villages which you discern at a distance in the vallies, give it
+the appearance of a romantic, yet populous and delightful neighbourhood.
+
+We were not able to see much of the interior of the town; but in passing
+once or twice through the principal streets, and more particularly in
+leaving the town, we had a good view of the public buildings. Many of
+them are very fine, and the whole town has an appearance of wealth, the
+effect of commerce. But a better idea of the wealth is given, by the
+innumerable loads of goods of different kinds, which you meet with on
+the roads in the vicinity of this favoured city, on the Paris and
+Marseilles sides of the town. The roads are completely ploughed up at
+this season of the year, and almost impassable. The waggoners are even a
+more independent set of men than with us in England; they keep their
+waggons in the very middle of the road, and will not move for the
+highest nobleman in the land; this, however, is contrary to the police
+regulations. The land carriage here is almost entirety managed by mules.
+These are from 13 to 14 hands high, and surpass in figure and limb
+anything I could have imagined of the sons and daughters of asses. The
+price of these animals varies from L.10 to L.40, according to size and
+temper. They are found of all colours; but white, grey, and bay are the
+most uncommon. Our journey this day was only as far as Vienne, a pretty
+large village, or it might be called a town. We entered it at night, and
+the rain pouring down upon us. These are two very great evils in French
+travelling; for either of them puts you into the hands of the
+innkeepers, who conceive, that at night, and in such weather, you must
+have lodging speedily, at any price. At the first inn we came to, we met
+with a reception, (which, to those accustomed to the polite and grateful
+expression, with which in arriving at an English inn, you are received
+by the attentive host or hostess), was altogether singular. The landlady
+declared, with the voice and action of a virago, that at this time of
+night, the highest guests in the land should not enter her roof upon any
+terms. The landlord, on the contrary, behaved with great politeness,
+entreated not to take offence at his wife's uncommon appearance. "C'est
+seulement un tête chaud, Monsieur, mais faites moi l'honeur d'y entrer."
+We accordingly did so; and this was the signal for the commencement of a
+scene in the interior of the inn, which was probably never equalled in
+the annals of matrimonial dissension. The landlady first gave a kind of
+prefatory yell, which was only a prelude of war-whoop, introductory to
+that which was to follow. She then began to tear her hair in handfuls;
+and kept alternately brandishing knives, forks, pots, logs of wood, in
+short, whatever her hand fell upon in the course of her fury, at her
+poor passive help-mate, who appeared to consider the storm with a
+nonchalance, which evidently could only have been produced by very long
+experience; while he kept saying to us all the time, [6]_"Soyez
+tranquille, Monsieur; ce n'est rien que cela."_ At length he commenced
+getting ready our supper, and I entered into conversation with a very
+great man, the mayor of the village, who, _adorned with a splendid order
+at his breast_, was quietly bargaining for his supper. Nothing more
+completely astonishes an Englishman than this extraordinary mixture of
+all ranks of society, which takes place at the kitchen fire of a French
+inn. You will there see, not only sitting, but familiarly conversing
+together, officers and gentlemen, coachmen, waggoners, and all classes
+of people, each addressing the other as _Monsieur_. The mayor here,
+being, to all appearance, a most communicative fellow, was easily got on
+the politics of the day. I began by enumerating the blessings of peace,
+and by extolling the character of the present King, in all of which he
+seemed to join with heart and soul. He told me how Bonaparte treated the
+mayors of the different towns,--how he would raise them up at all hours
+of the night,--how he forced them to seize on grain wherever it was
+found. In short, he abused him in the vilest terms. I put in an
+observation or two in his favour, when suddenly my friend whispered
+me,--"Sir, to be frank with you, he was the greatest man ever lived, and
+the best ruler for France." I encouraged him a little, by assenting to
+all he said, and I found him a staunch friend of Napoleon, anxious for
+his return: I have no doubt, that time-serving gentlemen like these,
+would wish for nothing more. It appeared to me, that his highness, the
+mayor, was in very high spirits, either from wine, or that it was his
+nature--however, "In vino veritas."----Distance, nineteen miles to
+Vienne.
+
+* * *
+
+We had a miserable lodging at this vile inn, (Hotel du Parc at Vienne.)
+We left it with pleasure, this morning, (_Tuesday_ the 21st), although
+the weather continued most unfavourable; yet any thing was better than
+remaining in such a house. The day continued to rain without
+intermission; and we made out with difficulty about 30 miles, to St
+Vallier. The country through which we passed to-day, is the most bare
+and barren we have seen, particularly when we approached St Vallier. The
+soil, a deep gravel, producing nothing but grapes, and a wretched scanty
+crop of wheat. The grapes, however, are here the finest for wine in
+France. It is here that the famous wines of Cotè Rotie and Hermitage are
+made. To the very summits of the hills, you see this wretched looking
+soil enclosed with stone dykes, and laid out in vineyards. We tasted
+some of the grapes here, and though out of season, we found them very
+fine; they were of a small black kind called Seeràn.
+
+The woman at the inn here, was sent for from the church, to see whether
+she would receive us on our terms of 18 francs, which is what we now
+always pay; having asked 20, we settled with her, and she went back to
+her devotions. We have now had three days of continued rain, which
+renders travelling very uncomfortable, and the roads most wretched. We
+still rise every morning at five, and are on the road at six. The air is
+mild, but very damp. The honey of Narbonne, got at Lyons, is the finest
+in France. I forgot to mention, that at Lyons we tried the experiment of
+going to the _table d'hôte_. We ought not, however, to form the opinion
+of a good _table d'hôte_ from the one of the Hotel du Parc. It was
+mostly composed of what are here called _Pensionaires_; people who dine
+there constantly, paying a smaller sum than the common rate of three
+francs. The company was, therefore, rather low, and the table scantily
+provided; but I should think, that for gentlemen travellers, a _table
+d'hôte_, where a good one is held, would be the best manner of
+dining.----Distance 30 miles to St Vallier.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, the 22d.--We left St Vallier at half past six in the
+morning, and only reached St Valence, a distance of 23 miles, by five
+o'clock. This delay was occasioned by the heavy fall of rain during
+these four last days, and by there being no bridge over the Isere,
+within four or five miles of Valence. The former bridge, (a most
+beautiful one, though only of wood), had been burnt down, by General
+Augereau to intercept the progress of the Austrians. The French appear
+to hate Augereau as much as Marmont; they say he was a traitor to
+Napoleon, to whom he owed every thing. The country through which we
+passed to-day, was as plain and uninteresting as yesterday's, though
+still all cultivated. Nothing but vines on the hills, and the plains
+almost bare--still gravelly. We found the Isere much swollen by the
+rain. The contrivance for carrying over the carts and carriages, is
+exceedingly simple and beautiful: Three very high trees are formed into
+a triangle, such as we raise for weighing coals. One of these is placed
+on each side of the river, and a rope passes over a groove at the top,
+and is fixed down at each side of the river; to this rope that crosses
+the river is attached a block and pulley, and to this pulley is fixed
+the rope of the boat. The stream tries by its rapidity to carry the boat
+down; the rope across prevents this; and it therefore slides across,
+with a regular though rapid motion.
+
+It appears to me that we are getting into a poorer country in every
+respect; for the inns are worse, the food worse, the roads worse, &c.
+There seems a want of poultry as well as butcher meat. Mutton here is
+very poor. Our inn to-night is the best we have seen since we left
+Lyons; it is at the Golden Cross, outside the town of Valence, and is
+neatly kept and well served. The waiter here had served in the army for
+six years. He says, there are indeed many of the soldiers who wish for
+war; but that he really believes there are as many who wish for peace: I
+have little faith in this. We observed this morning a large party of men
+returning from the galleys, having passed the time of their
+imprisonment. They were all uniformly dressed in red flannel clothes and
+small woollen caps, and attended by gens-d'armes.----Distance 23
+miles--to St Valence.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday_, the 23d.--We left St Valence well enough pleased with our
+lodging at the Golden Cross. It is, however, an exception to the bad set
+of inns we have lately been at. In the kitchen here, which I entered
+from curiosity, as the ladies went up stairs to the parlour, I found, as
+usual, a most extraordinary mixture of company. I listened, without
+joining at all in the conversation. The theme of discourse was a report
+that had been circulated, that all the young troops were to hold
+themselves in readiness again to take up arms. The only foundation I
+could find for this report was, _that a drum had been beat for some
+reason or other that evening._ This was a good opportunity of attending
+to the state of the public feeling here;--all and every one seemed
+delighted at the thoughts of war, provided it was with the Austrians.
+One man (a shopkeeper to appearance), said, that his son, a trumpeter,
+when he heard the drum, leapt from his seat, and, dancing about the
+room, exclaimed, [7]"La guerre! la guerre!" On the route this morning,
+we met with a small party of five or six soldiers returning to their
+homes; two of them had lost their right arms, and two others were lamed
+for life. They all agreed that they would never have wished for peace;
+and that even in their present miserable state they would fight. They
+were very fine stout fellows, about 40 years of age; but they had the
+looks of ruffians when narrowly examined.
+
+In the same inn the hostler, who had only fought one year, was as
+anxious for a continuation of peace as the others were for war. The wife
+of one of these soldiers gave a most lamentable description of the
+horrors of the last campaign, and ended by praying for a continuation of
+the peace.
+
+At a little village near Montelimart (our lodging place to-night), we
+were accosted in very bad English by a good-looking young Frenchman,
+who, from our appearance, knew us to be English. He told us that he had
+been four years a prisoner at Plymouth; he complained of bad treatment,
+and abused both the English and England very liberally, saying that
+France was a much finer country. Poor fellow! in a prison-ship at
+Plymouth he had formed his opinion of England. He gave us some good
+hints about the price of provisions in this part of the country. Wine
+(the vin ordinaire) is here at six sous, or three-pence the bottle. I
+had been very much astonished (on ordering some wine for the soldiers in
+the morning), to find that I had only ten sous to pay for each bottle.
+
+The country through which we passed to-day is rather more interesting,
+with a considerable variety of hill and dale, wood and water, but the
+soil is still a miserable gravel. Both to-day and yesterday we observed
+that the fields on each side of the road were planted with clumsy cropt
+trees, somewhat like fruit-trees. We could not make out what these were
+until to-day, when we learnt that they were mulberry trees, and that
+this was a silk country. The trees are of the size of our orchard
+trees; their branches, under the thickness of an inch, are all lopped
+off, and from the wounds thus made, spring up the tender young branches
+which produce the leaves. The trees have a most unnatural appearance
+from this cause. Under these the fields here are ploughed for a most
+wretched crop of wheat. The ploughs miserably constructed, but with
+wheels.
+
+This part of the country abounds with mule, which are used in carriages,
+carts, waggons, ploughs, &c. These animals are of a remarkable size
+here. The roads, ever since we left Lyons, excepting where we met with a
+hundred or two hundred yards of pavement, have been uniformly bad.
+To-day, however, we made out about 33 miles between six and five
+o'clock. This town of Montelimart is celebrated for one manufacture
+only, viz. a sort of cake made of almonds and white sugar, called
+Nagaux. This article is sent from this place all over France!------
+Distance 33 miles--to Montelimart.
+
+* * *
+
+Our journey to-day (_Friday_ the 24th) though rather more rapid, was not
+by any means comfortable. The country hereabout has a great want of
+milk and butter;--not a cow to be seen. The soil is still to appearance
+wretchedly poor, yet it gives a rich produce, in grapes, figs, olives,
+and mulberry leaves, for the silk worms. The wine (vin ordinaire) sells
+here at six sous the bottle; it is poor in quality, yet by no means
+unpalatable. The roads continue as bad as ever, rather worse indeed, for
+the thin creamy mud has become thick doughy clay.
+
+We did not arrive at Orange till half past five, but were fortunate in
+finding a civil reception at the Palais Royal, the first inn on entering
+the town. We met with no adventures to-day of any kind. The language of
+the people has now become completely unintelligible; it is a Patois of
+the most horrible nature. Many of the better sort of people among the
+peasants, are able to speak French with you, but where they have only
+their own dialect, you are completely at a loss. I had conceived, that
+there would be no more difference between French and Patois, than
+between the better and the lower dialects of Scotch and English; but the
+very words are here changed: A carter asked the landlord with whom we
+were conversing, for a [8]"Peetso morcel du bosse,"--_"petit morceau du
+bois."_ The landlord, a respectable-looking man, gave us a good deal of
+news regarding the state of the country. He says, that the people in the
+south are all anxious for peace, and that those in France, who wish for
+war, are those who have nothing else to live on; that nobody with a
+house over his back, and a little money, desires to have war again.
+
+The people here seem to amuse themselves with a perpetual variety of
+reports. The story to-day is, that Alexander has declared his intention
+of sending 60,000 men to Poland, to take possession of that country for
+himself; and that Talleyrand would not hear of such a thing. The
+villages that we passed to-day have a greater appearance of desolation
+than any we have yet seen. Scarce a house which does not seem to be
+tumbling to pieces, and those which we were unlucky enough to enter,
+were as dirty and uncomfortable inside as they appeared without. On
+entering the town, or rather at a little distance from the town of
+Orange, we saw a beautiful triumphal arch, said to have been raised to
+commemorate the victories of Marius over the Cimbri. The evening was
+too gloomy for us to observe in what state of preservation the sculpture
+is now, but the architecture is very grand. To-morrow we breakfast at
+Avignon. But alas, the weather will not permit of our visiting
+Vaucluse.----Distance 39 miles--to Orange.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Orange at half past six. Our road to-day
+lay through the same species of country, to which we have been condemned
+for four days, producing vines, olives, and mulberries; the soil is to
+all appearance a most wretched one for corn--gravel and stones. The
+roads have, ever since our leaving Lyons, been very bad. After breakfast
+at Avignon, we proceeded to see the ruins of the church of Notre Dame.
+There are now remaining but very few vestiges of a church; the ground
+formerly enclosed by the church, is now formed into a fruit garden, and
+a country house has been built on the ruins. The owner of this house
+wishes to let it, and hearing that a friend of ours was in need of a
+house, he offered it to him for two hundred a-year. The house was such
+as one could procure near London for about L.80, and such as we ought to
+have in France for L.20. But the French do really think, that the
+English will give any sum they ask, and that every individual is a kind
+of animated bag of money.
+
+The owner of the house was, to appearance, a broken-down gentleman; he
+had been ordered to Marseilles by his physician for an affection of the
+lungs; yet he strongly recommended the climate of Avignon. For my own
+part, I think the situation is too low and windy to be healthy. The town
+is one of the cleanest we have seen, and there are some excellent houses
+in it; of the rent we could not well judge from the account of this
+gentleman. We went through his garden, and were by him shewn the spot
+under which the tomb of Laura is now situated. A small cypress tree had
+been planted by the owner of the garden to mark the spot. He had heard
+the story of Laura, and recollected many particulars of it; but still he
+had not been at the pains to have the spot cleared, and the tomb exposed
+to view. To any one who was acquainted with the story of Petrarch, or
+who had perused his impassioned effusions, the dilapidation of this
+church, and the barbarous concealment of Laura's tomb, were most
+mortifying circumstances. But, neither the memory of Laura, nor of the
+brave Crillon, whose tomb is also here, had any effect in averting the
+progress of the revolutionary barbarians. The tomb of Crillon is now
+only to be distinguished by the vestiges of some warlike embellishments
+in the wall opposite which it was situated. There is a large space now
+empty in the midst of these ornaments, from which a large marble slab
+had lately been taken out. On this slab, the owner of the garden said,
+an inscription, commemorating the virtues of Crillon, had been engraved.
+A small stone, with his arms very beautifully engraved, was shewn us in
+the garden. I could not leave the garden without stealing a branch from
+the cypress which shaded Laura's tomb.
+
+Through this garden runs the rivulet of Vaucluse. Its course is through
+the town of Avignon; where we remained for three hours, and then
+continued our journey; but the day was far advanced, and by the evening
+we only arrived at a wretched, little inn called Bonpas. We were here
+told that we could have no lodging. Luckily for us the moon was up, and
+very clear; we therefore pushed on for Orgon, which, although said in
+the post-book to be two posts and a half from Bonpas, we reached in
+about an hour and a half. On our arrival we were fortunate enough to
+find lodging; and had scarcely seated ourselves in our parlour, when the
+people told us, that last night the mail had been robbed, and both the
+postillion and conducteur killed on the spot,----Distance 42 miles--to
+Orgon.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, the 26th,--We left Orgon, as usual, at six o'clock, and
+travelled before breakfast to Font Royal, a distance of 11 miles. Here
+the unfortunate _conducteur_ of the mail was lying desperately wounded;
+the surgeon, however, expected him to live. The postmaster here was not
+well satisfied with the conduct of the soldiers or gens-d'armes who
+attended the mail. The robbers were only four in number, and the
+attendants, viz. the postillion, conducteur and gens-d'armes, he
+thought, ought to have been a match for them. The robbers were
+frightened off while searching for the money, and fled without taking
+any thing of consequence.
+
+It is a very bad arrangement which they have in France, of sending large
+sums of money in gold and silver by the mail; for it holds out a much
+stronger inducement than would otherwise be given to the robbers. The
+mail, in France, is a very heavy coach, and has only three horses. The
+roads to-day were worse than any we have yet passed; and the country,
+for the first part of our journey, is as dull and insipid as it is
+possible to conceive. The soil most wretched, but still producing great
+riches in olives, grapes, figs, and mulberries. The grapes are
+delightful, even now when almost out of season, and the wine made from
+them is very fine. Within a mile or two of Aix, (from the top of a steep
+descent over a very barren, and bleak hill), you are delighted with the
+most complete change in the scene: In a moment, an extensive valley,
+highly cultivated, opens on the view. It is divided into a beautiful
+variety of vineyards, wheat fields, gardens, plantations of olives and
+figs, and is enclosed by hedge-rows of almond and mulberry trees. Round
+the valley rise a succession of romantic hills, covered with woods, and
+forming a fine conclusion to the view. It was altogether an enchanting
+picture. If this is the case in winter, what must it be in summer? The
+town of Aix, situated in this valley, is, as far as we have seen, the
+cleanest, neatest, and most comfortable-looking town in France--we are
+as yet all delighted with it; but when we shall have seen it for a day
+or two, I shall be better able to give an account of it.----Distance 33
+miles--to Aix.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+RESIDENCE AT AIX, AND JOURNEY TO BOURDEAUX.
+
+
+MONDAY, the 27th.--Having been employed the whole day in searching for
+furnished lodgings, I had no time to ride about and see the town. I
+shall describe it afterwards.--I saw, however, a little of the manners
+of some ranks of French society.
+
+After this, I went into the best coffeehouse in the town here, and sat
+down to read the newspapers. I found in it people of all
+descriptions--several of a most unprepossessing appearance, and others
+really like gentlemen. One of the best dressed of these last, decorated
+with the white cockade and other insignia, and having several rings of
+precious stones on his fingers, a watch, with a beautiful assortment of
+seals and other trinkets, was playing at Polish drafts, with an officer,
+also apparently a gentleman. I entered into conversation with him; and
+was surprised at his almost immediately offering me his watch, trinkets,
+and rings for sale. Still I thought this might arise from French
+manners: I had not a doubt he was a gentleman.--How great was my
+surprise, when a gentleman from the other side of the room called him by
+name, and bid him bring a cup of coffee and a glass of liqueur--My
+friend was one of the waiters of the coffeehouse. Such is the mixture of
+French society--such is the effect of citizenship.
+
+Our landlord, Mr A----, keeps a retail shop for toys, perfumery,
+cutlery, and all manner of articles. I did not think that we had given
+him any encouragement on our fist arrival; but he is now become a pest
+to us: he honours us with his company at all hours, and comes and seats
+himself with our other acquaintances, of whatever rank they may be. I
+have been forced at last to be rude to him, in never asking him to sit
+down when any one is with us. _The physician shakes him by the hand--so
+does the banker_. When I had purchased my horse, our banker spoke to a
+little mean-looking body, a paper-maker, to buy some corn and hay for
+it. I was astonished when the banker ended his speech by an
+affectionate[9] "_Adieu, a revoir a souper_." I am told, however, that
+this mixture of ranks, and this condescension on the part of superiors,
+is only practised at times, and to serve a purpose; and that, although
+the nobleman will sit down in the kitchen of an inn, and converse
+familiarly with the servants there, and though he will sit down in a
+shop, and prattle with the Bourgeoise, yet he keeps his place most
+proudly in society, inviting and receiving only his equals and
+superiors. The familiarity of all ranks with their own servants is most
+disgusting; but, from their poverty, the higher classes must condescend.
+
+Yesterday evening, I had an interesting conversation with Mr L. B. an
+intelligent and well informed man, of good family, eminent in his
+profession, and high in the opinion of all the society here; he is a
+devoted royalist. Among other interesting anecdotes which he related, I
+can only recollect these:
+
+Bonaparte had got into some scrape at Toulon, where he was well known as
+a bad and troublesome character; he was arrested, and put under a guard
+commanded by a near relation of Mr L. B. Barras, then at the height of
+his power in Paris, not knowing what to do with some of his royalist
+enemies, sent for Bonaparte, and proposed to him to collect a body of
+troops, and to fire on the royalists. Jourdan, and many other officers
+were applied to, but refused so base an employment. Bonaparte willingly
+accepted it--acquitted himself to Barras's satisfaction, and Barras then
+offered him the command in Italy, provided he would marry his cast-off
+mistress, Madame Beauharnois. To this Bonaparte consented. Bonaparte's
+mother had been, about this time, turned out of the Marseilles Theatre,
+on account of her bad character; for it was well known, that she
+subsisted herself and one of her daughters on the beauty of her other
+daughter. Shortly after Bonaparte's appointment to the Italian army, the
+same magistrate (the Mayor of Marseilles), who had formerly turned out
+Madame Bonaparte, perceived her again seated in one of the front boxes;
+he went up to her, and turned her out. She immediately wrote to her son,
+and the poor mayor was dismissed. This anecdote is, I find, mentioned by
+Goldsmith, who refers, in proof of its truth, to the newspapers of the
+time, in which the conduct, and sentence of the mayor are fully
+discussed.
+
+Bonaparte, extremely dissipated himself, would yet often correct any
+propensities of that kind in his relations. Pauline, the Princess
+Borghese, had formed an attachment for a very handsome young Florentine;
+he was one night suddenly surprised by Bonaparte's emissaries, put into
+a carriage, and removed to a great distance, with orders not to return.
+
+One of Bonaparte's relations had formed an attachment to Junot, who was
+one of the handsomest men in France; Junot was immediately after sent to
+Portugal, and upon his defeats there, he was disgraced publicly by
+Bonaparte, and killed himself, it was believed, in a fit of despair.
+
+The Princess Borghese, though vain, fond of dress, of extravagance, and
+of pleasure of every sort, whether honest or otherwise, has yet a good
+heart. A cousin of Mr L. B.'s was ordered to join the Garde d'Honneur:
+One of the last and most cruel acts of Bonaparte, was the constitution
+of this corps, which was meant to receive the young men of noble or rich
+families. The mother and relations of this young man were inconsolable,
+and the sum of money which would have been required as a ransom, was
+more than they could give; for Bonaparte, well knowing that the better
+families would rather pay than allow of their sons serving in his guard,
+had made the price of ransom immense. In their distress, they applied to
+Mr L. B., who had been at one time of service to the Princess Borghese
+in his legal capacity, and he paid a visit to the Princess. She received
+him most kindly, but told him that Bonaparte strictly forbade her
+interfering in military matters; that she would willingly apply for the
+situation of a prefect for Mr L. B. but could be of no service to his
+relation. She was, however, at last prevailed on; she wrote most warmly
+to her friends, and in three or four days the young man was sent back to
+his happy family.
+
+The French here date Bonaparte's downfall from the time when he first
+determined on attacking the power of the Pope. They say that this attack
+and the Spanish War, were both contrary to the advice of Talleyrand. In
+a conversation which took place between the Emperor Alexander and
+Napoleon, Alexander represented his own power as superior to Napoleon's,
+because he had no Pope to, controul him; and Bonaparte then replied,
+that "he would shew him and the world that the Pope was nobody."
+
+Our conversation turned on the difference between the penal codes of
+France and England. The French code, as revised, and, in many parts,
+formed by Napoleon, is much more mild than ours. There are not more than
+twelve crimes for which the punishment is death. In England, according
+to Blackstone, there are 160 crimes punished by death; on these
+subjects, I shall afterwards write more fully when I haws received more
+information. Mr L. B. related a curious anecdote, from which the
+abolition of torture is said to have been determined.
+
+A judge, who had long represented the folly of this method of trial,
+without any success, had recourse to the following stratagem:--Be went
+into the stable at night, and having taken away two of his own horses,
+he had them removed to distance. In the morning his coachman came
+trembling to inform him of the theft. He immediately had him confined.
+He was put to the torture, and, unable to bear the agony, he said that
+he had stolen the horses. The judge immediately wrote to the King, and
+informed him, that he himself had removed the horses. The man was
+pardoned, and the judge settled a large pension on him. The subject of
+the torture was considered, and the result was its abolition.
+
+I found that the opinions as to some parts of their criminal
+jurisprudence in France, were the same as are entertained on the same
+subject in England. Mr L. B., who has had occasion professionally to
+attend many criminal trials, is of opinion, that in this country,
+terrible punishments ought to be avoided, or at least performed in
+private. It is generally thought, that the horror of these punishments
+deters the robber and murderer, and has a good effect on the multitude;
+but I am afraid, said Mr L. B., that the multitude compassionate the
+sufferer, and think the laws unjust: and experience shews, that
+punishments, however horrid, do not deter the _hardened_ criminal. My
+father, said he, filled the situation of judge in his native city. A
+very young man, son of his baker, was convicted before the court, and
+condemned to die, for robbery with murder. After sentence, my father
+visited him, and asked him how he had been led to commit such a crime?
+Since I was a child, said the boy, I have always been a thief. When at
+school, I stole from my school-fellows,--when brought home, I stole from
+my father and mother. I have long wished to rob on the high-way; the
+fear of death did not prevent me. The worst kind of death is the rack,
+but by going to see every execution, I have learnt to laugh even at the
+rack. When young, it alarmed me, but habit has done away its terrors.
+
+Mr L. B. is certainly a man of gentlemanly manners, and of much general
+information. He is received at Aix in the first society of the old
+nobility; and was, I afterwards found, reckoned a model of good
+breeding, and yet, (which, in the present condition of French manners,
+is by no means uncommon), I have frequently witnessed him, in general
+company, introducing topics, and employing expressions, which, in our
+country, would not have been tolerated for a moment, but must have been
+considered an outrage to the established forms of good breeding.
+
+The day after our conversation with Mr L. B. we received a visit from
+the daughter of a Scotch friend, who is married to one of the first
+counsellors here. We returned home with her to hear some music. We were
+received in a very neat and very handsomely furnished house. The mother
+and daughter appeared to us polite and elegant women. But I was
+astonished to observe, seated on a sofa near them, a young man, whose
+costume, contrasted with the ease and confidence of his manners, gave me
+no small surprise. He wore an old torn great coat, a Belcher
+handkerchief about his neck, a pair of, worn-out military trowsers,
+stockings which had once been white, and shoes down in the heel. What my
+astonishment to find this shabby looking object was a brother of the
+counsellor's, and a correct model of the morning costume of the French
+noblemen!
+
+From Mr L. B. I learnt, that the worst land in Provence, when well
+cultivated, produces only three for one. The common produce of tolerably
+good ground, is from five to seven for one. The greatest produce known
+in Provence is ten for one. But for this, the best soils are weeded, and
+plenty of manure used. Our banker's account of the soil here is more
+favourable; but I am doubtful whether he is a farmer. Mr L. B. has a
+farm, and superintends it himself.
+
+I had the good fortune to attend a trial, which had excited much
+interest here. In the conscription which immediately preceded the
+downfall of Bonaparte, it appears, that the most horrid acts of violence
+and tyranny had been committed. People of all ranks, and of all ages,
+had been forced at the point of the bayonet to join the army. Near
+Marseilles, the _gens-d'armes_, in one of the villages, after exercising
+all kinds of cruelty, had collected together a number of the peasantry,
+and were leading them to be butchered. The peasants, in Provence, are
+naturally bold and free. The party contrived to escape, and all but one
+man hid themselves in the woods. This poor fellow was conducted alone;
+his hands in irons. His comrades lay in wait for the party who were
+carrying him away, and in the attempt to deliver him, three of the
+gens-d'armes were killed. The unfortunate conscript was only released to
+die of his wounds. Three of his comrades were seized, and indicted to
+stand trial for the murder of the gens-d'armes.
+
+I judged this a most favourable opportunity of ascertaining the public
+feeling, and attended the trial accordingly. The court was a special
+one, for this is one of the subjects which Bonaparte did not trust to a
+jury. It was composed of five civil and three military members. The
+forms of proceeding were the same as I have fully noticed in a
+subsequent chapter,--the same minute interrogations were made to the
+unhappy prisoners--the same contest took place between these and the
+Judges. One was acquitted, and the other two found guilty of "_meurtre
+volontaire, mais sans premeditation_."--Voluntary, but unpremeditated
+murder. These two were condemned to labour for life, but a respite was
+granted, and an appeal made to the King in their behalf. I was not
+disappointed in the ebullitions of public feeling which many of the
+incidents of the trial called forth. Mr L. B. and another young advocate
+pleaded very well. They both touched, though rather slightly, on the
+state of the country; but it was left to Mr Ayeau, the most celebrated
+pleader in criminal trials, and a zealous royalist, to develope the real
+condition of France, at the time of this last conscription. His speech
+was short, but I think it was the most energetic, and the most eloquent
+I ever heard. He began in an extraordinary manner, which at once shewed
+the scope of his argument, and secured him the attention of every one
+present--"Gentlemen, if that pest of society, from whom it has pleased
+God to release us, was a usurper and a tyrant, it was lawful to resist
+him. If Louis the XVIII. was our legitimate prince, it was lawful to
+fight for him." He then shewed, in a most ingenious argument, that the
+prisoners at the bar had done no more than this. Some parts of his
+speech were exceedingly beautiful. He ended by saying, that "he dared
+the Judges to condemn to death those who would have died for "_Louis le
+desiré_."--It is generally thought here, that they will all be
+pardoned.
+
+The situation of the town of Aix, and the scenery in the valley, is
+truly beautiful. It is now the middle of December, yet the air is even
+warmer, I think, than with us in summer. We sit with open windows, and
+when we walk, the heat of the sun is even oppressive. The flowers in the
+little gardens in the valley are in full bloom; and the other day we
+found the blue scented violet, and observed the strawberries in blossom.
+The fields are quite green, and the woods still retain their variegated
+foliage. When the mistral (a species of north-west wind, peculiar to
+this climate), blows, it is certainly cold; but since our arrival, we
+have only twice experienced this chilling interruption to the general
+beauty and serenity of our weather. The scenery in the interior of the
+hills which surround the valley, is very romantic; and the little grassy
+paths which lead through them, are so dry, that our party have had
+several delightful expeditions into the hills. Many of our French
+friends, although probably themselves no admirers of the country,
+profess themselves so fond of English society, that they insist upon
+accompanying us; and it is curious to witness the artificial French
+manners, and the noisy volubility of French, tongues introduced into
+those retired and beautiful scenes, which, in our own country, we
+associate with the simplicity and innocence of rural life.
+
+Amidst these peaceful and amusing occupations, the easy tenor of our
+lives gliding on from day to day, interrupted by no variety of event,
+except the entertaining differences occasioned by foreign manners and a
+foreign country; we were surprised one morning by the entrance of our
+landlord, who came into our parlour with a face full of anxiety, and
+informed us, that Napoleon had landed at Cannes from Elba, and had
+already, with five hundred men, succeeded in reaching Grace. Mr L. B.
+soon came in and confirmed the report. Although certainly considerably
+alarmed at this event, especially as the greater portion of our party
+was composed of ladies, I could not help feeling, that we were fortunate
+in having an opportunity thus offered of ascertaining the state of
+public opinion, and the true nature of the political sentiments of that
+part of the country in which we are at present residing; for we are here
+at Aix, within twenty-five miles of the small town where Napoleon has
+landed.
+
+I shall first detail the circumstances under which this singular event
+took place; afterwards attempt to give some idea of the effects
+produced by it on the multitude. On the 1st of March 1815, Napoleon
+landed near Cannes, in the gulf of Juan. His first step was, to dispatch
+his Aide-de-Camp, Casabianca, with another officer and 25 men, to ask
+admittance into the Fort of Antibes; admitted into the Fort, they
+demanded its surrender to Bonaparte. The Governor paraded his garrison,
+and having made them swear allegiance to their Sovereign, he secured the
+rebels. Casabianca leaped from the wall and broke his back. In the
+meantime, Napoleon, finding his first scheme fail, marched straight to
+Grace, with between 700 and 800 men. He there encamped with his small
+force on the plain before the town, and summoned the mayor to furnish
+rations for his men; to which the mayor replied; that he acknowledged no
+orders from any authority except Louis XVIII. This conduct was the more
+worthy of praise, as the poor mayor had not a soldier to support him.
+The Emperor then attempted to have printed a proclamation in writing,
+signed by him, and counter-signed by General Bertrand, in which, among
+other rhodomontades, he tells the good people of France, that he comes
+at the call of the French nation, who, he knew, could not suffer
+themselves to be ruled by the Prince Regent of England, in the person of
+Louis XVIII.--The printer refused to print it. Napoleon proceeded from
+Grace to Digne, from Digne to Sisteron, and from Sisteron to Gap, where
+he slept on the 6th of March. In all the villages, he endeavoured,
+apparently without success, to inflame the minds of the people, and
+strengthen, by recruits, his small body of troops. He has, as yet, got
+no one to join him; but, on the other hand, he has met with no
+resistance. This day, the 8th, he must meet with three thousand men,
+commanded by General Marchand. It is thought, that if these prove true
+to their allegiance, he will make good his way to Lyons; but if, on the
+contrary, they oppose him, he is ruined. The commotion excited in Aix,
+by this news, is not to be conceived. The hatred and detestation in
+which Bonaparte is held here, becomes, I think, more apparent as the
+danger is more imminent. With a very few exceptions, all ranks of people
+express these sentiments. The national guard were immediately under
+arms, and entreated their commanding officer and the civil authorities,
+to permit them to go in pursuit of the ex-Emperor. Unfortunately the
+chiefs were not well agreed on the measures which ought to be adopted.
+From the excessive _sang froid_ with which Massena conducted himself, I
+should not be surprised if there were some truth in the report which was
+current here, that he had intelligence of the whole scheme, and kept
+back, in order that he might join Bonaparte. The first and second day,
+nothing was done; on the 3d, the 83d regiment was dispatched in pursuit
+from Marseilles. I accompanied them for four miles, during which, they
+had made two short halts. I had an opportunity of talking with a number
+of the men: they were certainly liberal in their abuse of the
+ex-Emperor; but several of them remarked, that it _was a hard thing to
+make them fight against each other_. The French here are all of opinion,
+that the troops of the line are not to be trusted. Like all other
+soldiers, they long for war, and as they would be more likely to have
+war Under Napoleon, than under Louis XVIII. I have little doubt they
+would join him. On the first news, the whole society of Aix were in the
+deepest affliction--the men agitated and disturbed--the women and
+children weeping. Each hour these feelings changed, for every hour there
+was some new report. The French believe every thing, and though each
+report belied the other, I saw no difference in the credit attached to
+them. There is no newspaper published in Aix, and the prefect, who is a
+person much suspected, has taken no steps to give the public correct
+information, but allows them to grope, in the dark; they have invented
+accordingly the most ridiculous stories, converting hundreds into
+thousands, and a few fishing boats and other small craft, into first a
+squadron of Neapolitans, and then a fleet of English ships. This report
+of the English ships is, I am sorry to say, still current, and the
+English are looked on with an evil eye by the lower orders. Even among
+our more liberal friends, there were some who asked me, what interest
+the English could have in letting him escape? After some cool reasoning,
+however, they acknowledged the folly of this story. The King is
+universally blamed for employing, in the most responsible situations,
+the Generals attached to Napoleon. The populace declare, that Soult, the
+Minister of War, is at the bottom of this attempt. Now, that one can
+reason on the matter, and that the impression of the magnanimity which
+dictated the conduct of the allied Powers to Napoleon, is somewhat
+diminished, it must be allowed, that there is some sense in the remark,
+that it was folly to dismiss him to Elba, with all the appointment,
+"pomp, and circumstance" of a little Sovereign, instead of confining him
+in a prison, or leaving him no head to plan mischief. The people affirm
+here, that this was done purposely by the English, to keep France in
+continual trouble.
+
+_15th_.--All possibility of continuing this little Journal is precluded
+by the alarming progress of Napoleon, and the consequent necessity of
+taking immediate steps for our departure from this country. The
+ex-Emperor is every day making rapid strides to the capital; and we have
+to-day intelligence that it is believed the troops in Lyons are
+disaffected. I have now given up all hope, for I see plainly that every
+thing is arranged--not a blow has been struck. The soldiers have every
+where joined him, and there cannot be a doubt that he will reign in
+France. He may not, indeed, reign long; for it is to be hoped that the
+English will not shut their eyes, or be deceived by the fabricated
+reports of the journals--It is to be hoped that the allied Powers are
+better acquainted with the character of Napoleon than the too-good Louis
+XVIII. In the mean time, it is high time for us to be off; and I think
+we shall take the route of Bourdeaux. This unfortunate town (Aix), is
+now a melancholy spectacle; for all the thinking part believe that the
+cause of the Bourbons is lost. Our poor landlord, a violent royalist,
+has just been with us. He affirms that he could have predicted all this;
+for when he sold the white cockades to the military, they often said,
+[10]"Eh bien; c'est bon pour le moment, mais cela ne durera pas long
+temps."--Poor man, he is in perfect agony, and his wife weeps all day
+long. If all the people of France thought as well as those at Aix,
+Napoleon would have little chance of success; but alas, I am much afraid
+he will find more friends than enemies.
+
+The whole town is still in the greatest confusion. The national guard,
+amongst whom were many of our friends, were not allowed to march till
+the seventh day after the landing of Napoleon. By day-break, we were
+awoke by the music of the military bands, and saw, from the windows, the
+different companies, headed by their officers, many of whose faces were
+familiar to us, march out, seemingly in great spirits. It was a
+melancholy sight to us. There was something in our own situation; placed
+in a country already involved in civil commotion, finding our poor
+French friends, whose life seemed before this to be nothing but one
+continued scene of amusement, now weeping for the loss of their sons and
+husbands and brothers, who had marched to intercept Napoleon, and
+involved in uncomfortable uncertainty as to our future plans, which for
+some time made every thing appear gloomy and distressing. The interval
+between the 8th and the 12th has been occupied by a constant succession
+of favourable and unfavourable reports; gloomy conjectures and fearful
+forebodings, have, however, with most people here, formed the prevailing
+tone of public opinion. The report which was, a few days ago, circulated
+here, that the escape of the ex-Emperor was a premeditated plan,
+invented and executed by the English, gains ground every day. It is
+completely credited by the lower classes here; and such is the enmity
+against the English, that we are now obliged to give up our country
+walks, rather than encounter the menacing looks and insulting speeches
+of the lower orders. To-day is the 8th, and we are in a state of the
+most extreme anxiety, waiting for the arrival of a courier. In this
+unfortunate country, owing to the imperfection of the system of posts,
+public news travel very slowly; and in proportion to the scarcity of
+accurate information, is the perplexing variety of unfounded reports.
+The prefect of Aix has just been here to tell us that as yet there
+appears to be nothing decided; but that upon the whole, things look
+favourably for the Bourbons. Bonaparte, he informs us, slept at Gape on
+Sunday, and dispatched from that town three couriers with different
+proclamations. Not a man joined him, and it is said he left Gape enraged
+by the coolness of his reception. In the course of the day, another mail
+from Gape has arrived, but still brings no intelligence, which looks as
+if this unfortunate business would be speedily decided. Monsieur has
+arrived at Lyons, and intends, we hear, to proceed to Grenoble. Last
+night it was quite impossible for us to sleep. The crowds in the
+streets, and the confusion of the mob who parade all night, expecting
+the arrival of a new courier, creates a continual uproar. During the
+night, we heard our poor landlady weeping; and we found out next morning
+that her husband had been called off in the night to join the national
+guard, which had marched in pursuit of the ex-Emperor.
+
+_Friday_, the 10th.--Still no decisive intelligence has arrived. Every
+thing, it is said, looks well, but there is a mystery and stillness
+about the town to-day which alarms us.
+
+_Saturday_, the 11th.--We have this day received from Mr L. B., who
+marched with the national guard, a very interesting letter from
+Sisteron. The crisis, which will determine the result of this last
+daring adventure of the ex-Emperor, seems to be fast approaching. Our
+friend tells us all as yet looks well. Bonaparte is surrounded and
+hemmed in to the space of two leagues by troops marching from all sides.
+These, however, how strong soever they may be, appear to maintain a
+suspicious kind of inaction, and he continues his progress towards
+Grenoble. Every thing depends on the conduct of the troops there, under
+General Marchand. Their force is such, that if they continue firm, his
+project is ruined. On the contrary, if their allegiance to the Bourbons
+is but pretended, and if their attachment to their old commander should
+revive, it is to be dreaded that this impulse will have an irresistible
+effect upon the troops; and if Marchand's division joins him, all is
+irretrievably lost: He will be at the head of a force sufficient to
+enable him to dictate terms to Lyons, and the pernicious example of so
+great a body of troops will poison the allegiance of the rest of the
+army.
+
+_Sunday_, the 12th.--Our fears have been prophetic. We have heard again
+from Mr L. B. This letter is most melancholy; Marchand's corps have
+joined the ex-Emperor, and he is on his march to Lyons, the second town
+in the kingdom, with a force every day increasing. It is absolutely
+necessary now to form some decided plan for leaving this devoted
+country. Whether it will be better to embark from Marseilles or to
+travel across the country to Bourdeaux, is the question upon which we
+have not yet sufficient information to decide. We expect to hear
+to-morrow of an engagement between the troops commanded by the Prince
+D'Artois at Lyons, and the force which has joined Napoleon. Every moment
+which we now remain in this kingdom is time foolishly thrown away.
+Bonaparte may have friends in the sea-port towns; the organization of
+this last scheme may be, and indeed every hour proves, that it has been
+deeper than we at first imagined, and the possibility of escape may in a
+moment be entirely precluded.
+
+_Monday_, the 13th.--This has been a day of much agitation; a courier
+has arrived, and the intelligence he brings is as bad as possible. Every
+thing is lost. The Count d'Artois harangued his troops, and the answer
+they made, was a universal shout of _Vive l'Empereur_. The Prince has
+been obliged to return to Paris; Bonaparte has entered Lyons without the
+slightest opposition, and is now on his march to the capital. We have
+just been informed, that the Duc d'Angouleme is expected here this
+evening or to-morrow. The guarde nationale has been paraded upon the
+_Cours_, and a proclamation, exhorting them to continue faithful to the
+King, read aloud to the soldiers. We hear them rapturously shouting Vive
+le Roi; and they are now marching through the streets to the national
+air of Henrie Quatre. Every house has displayed the white flag from its
+windows.
+
+_Thursday_, the 16th.--We have determined now to run the risk of
+travelling across the country to Bourdeaux, trusting to embark from that
+town for England. I have visited Marseilles, and find that there are no
+vessels in that port; and in the present uncertain state of Italy, it
+would be hazardous attempting to reach Nice. Bonaparte, we hear, is near
+Paris, and is expected to enter that capital without opposition; but we
+now receive no intelligence whose accuracy can be relied on, as the
+couriers have been stopt, and all regular intercourse discontinued. The
+preparations, for the arrival of the Duc d'Angouleme, continued till
+this morning; and in the evening we witnessed his entry into Aix: It was
+an affecting sight. At the gate of the town, he got out of his carriage,
+mounted on horseback, and rode twice along the Cours, followed by his
+suite. The common people, who were assembled on each side of the street,
+shouted Vive le Roi, Vivent les Bourbons, apparently with enthusiasm.
+The attention of the Duke seemed to be chiefly directed to the regiments
+of the line, which were drawn up on the Cours. As he rode along, he
+leant down and seemed to speak familiarly to the common soldiers; but
+the troops remained sullen and silent. No cries of loyalty were heard
+amongst them--not a single murmur of applause. They did not even salute
+the Duke as he past, but continued perfectly still and silent. In the
+midst of this, we could hear the sobs of the women in the crowd, and of
+the ladies, who waved their handkerchiefs from the windows. As he came
+near the balcony where we and our English friends were assembled, we
+strained our voices with repeated cries of Vive le Roi. He heard us,
+looked up, and bowed; and afterwards, with that grateful politeness, the
+characteristic of the older school of French manners, he sent one of his
+attendants to say, that he had distinguished the English, and felt
+flattered by the interest they took in his affairs. Although it was
+positively asserted by our French friends here, that Marseilles was in
+the greatest confusion; and that on account of the prevalence of the
+report of the English having favoured the escape of Bonaparte, all our
+countrymen were liable to be insulted; I yet found the town perfectly
+tranquil. Massena, I heard, had sent for some troops from Toulon; and
+the 3000 national guards employ themselves night and day, in shouting
+_Vive le Roi_. We shall leave Aix to-morrow morning, taking the route to
+Bourdeaux.
+
+_Friday_, the 17th of April.--Our leaving Aix this morning was really
+melancholy. French friends, hearing of our approaching departure,
+flocked in to bid us farewell. They were in miserably low spirits,
+deploring the state of their unhappy country, weeping over the fate of
+their sons and husbands, who had marched with the national guard in
+pursuit of the ex-Emperor; and full of fears as to the calamities this
+might bring upon them. You are happy English, said they, and are
+returning to a loyal and secure country, and you leave us exposed to all
+the calamities of a civil war.
+
+After a long day's journey, we have at last arrived at Orgon, at seven
+in the evening. There has been little travelling on the road to-day. The
+country has nearly the same aspect as in November last. The only
+difference is, that the almond trees are in full blossom, and some few
+other trees, such as willows, &c. in leaf; the wheat is about half a
+foot to a foot high: The day was delightfully mild; and as we drove
+along, we met numberless groups of peasants who lined the road, and were
+anxiously waiting for their Prince passing by. The road was strewed with
+lilies, and the young girls had their laps filled with flowers as we
+passed. As we past, they knew us to be English, and shouted Vive le Roi.
+
+We are now in Languedoc, but as yet I cannot say that it equals, or at
+all justifies Mrs Radcliffe's description: Flat and insipid plains of
+_vignoble_ or wheat. However, there is here, as every where in France,
+no want of cultivation. Napoleon had commenced, and nearly finished, a
+very fine quay and buttresses between the two bridges of boats. That man
+had always grand, though seldom good views. The walls of the inn here
+were covered with a mixture of "Vive le Roi!" and "Vive Napoleon!" this
+last mostly scratched out. National guards in every town demanded our
+passport. These men and the gens-d'armes are running about in every
+direction. No courier from Paris arrived here these three days. This
+looks ill. The houses are better in appearance than in Provence. The
+country very productive: Potatoes the finest I have seen in
+France.----Distance 34 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 19th.--We left Nismes at six o'clock this morning, and
+breakfasted at Lunel, where they appear to be full of loyalty. It was a
+subject to us of much regret, that more time was not allowed us to
+examine a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, half of which is nearly
+entire, although the remaining part is quite ruinous. The troops in the
+town were drawn up on the parade, expecting the Duke d'Angouleme. We
+received a small printed paper from an officer on the road, containing
+the information last received from Paris, which secured us a good
+reception at the inn. The people were delighted to procure a piece of
+authentic intelligence, (a thing they seldom have); they flocked round
+us, and upon their entreaty, I gave them the paper to carry to the
+caffèe. In the inn we found a number of recruits for the army forming by
+the Duke d'Angouleme; it is said that he has already collected at Nismes
+nineteen hundred men, all volunteers. The country does not improve in
+romantic beauty as we advance in Languedoc; but what is better, the
+cultivation is very superior; large fields of fine wheat. There seems to
+be all over the south the same want of horned cattle; horses also are
+very scarce and very bad:--milk never to be had unless very early, and
+then in small quantity. No land wasted here. All the houses about
+Montpellier are better than near Aix, and we even saw some neat country
+seats, a circumstance almost unknown in all the parts of France where we
+have hitherto been. The olive trees are here much larger and finer than
+in Provence; but the country, although covered with olives, vines, and
+wheat, is flat, ugly, and insipid. The instruments of agriculture are
+even inferior to those in Provence, which last are at least a century
+behind England. The plough here is as rude as in Bengal, and is formed
+of a crooked branch of a tree shod with iron. As we approached near
+Montpellier, the appearance of the country began to display more
+beautiful features. The ground is more varied, the fields and meadows of
+a richer green, a distant range of hills closes in the view, and the
+olive groves are composed of larger and more luxuriant trees. Nearer to
+the town, the country is divided into small nursery gardens, which,
+although inferior to those in the environs of London, give an unusual
+richness to the landscape. We arrived at Montpellier at six o'clock, and
+from the crowd in the town, found much difficulty in procuring an hotel.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, 20th April.--We have better news to-day; letters from the Duke
+d'Angouleme announce that the whole conspiracy has been discovered, and
+that Soult (Ministre de Guerre) and several other generals have been
+arrested. In consequence of which, it is expected that the plans of the
+conspirators will be in a great measure defeated. The French change in a
+moment from the extreme of grief to the opposite, that of the most
+extravagant joy. To-day they are in the highest spirits;--but things
+still look very ill. No courier from Paris for these last four days. The
+ex-Emperor still marching uninterruptedly towards that city, yet no one
+can conceive that he will succeed, now that the King's eyes are
+open;--his clemency alone has occasioned all this--he would not consent
+to remove the declared friends of Napoleon.
+
+We passed this day at Montpellier; but were prevented by the intense
+heat of the sun from seeing as much of the environs as we could have
+wished. The town is old and the streets shabby; but the Peyroue is one
+of the most magnificent things I ever saw. It is a superb platform,
+which forms the termination of the Grand Aqueduct built by Louis XIV.
+and commands a magnificent extent of country. In front, the view is
+terminated by a long and level line of the Mediterranean. To the
+south-west the horizon is formed by the ridge of the Pyrenees; while, to
+the north, the view is closed in by the distant, yet magnificent summits
+of the Alps. Immediately below these extends, almost to the border of
+the Mediterranean, a beautiful _paysage_, spotted with innumerable
+country seats, which, seen at a distance, have the same air of neatness
+and comfort as those in England. At the end of this fine platform, is a
+Grecian temple, inclosing a basin, which receives the large body of
+water conveyed by the aqueduct, and which empties itself again into a
+wide basin with a bottom of golden-coloured sand. The limpid clearness
+of the water is beyond all description. The air, blowing over the basin
+from a plain of wheat and olives (evergreens in this climate), has a
+charming freshness. The Esplanade here is also a fine promenade,
+although the view which it commands is not so fine as that from the
+Peyroue. The manufactures of Montpellier are, verdigris, blankets and
+handkerchiefs; little trade going on. The climate is delightful, though
+now too warm for my taste. Every thing is much farther advanced here
+than at Aix. They have some very pretty gardens here, though nothing
+equal to what we see every day in England. The botanical garden is very
+small. We start to-morrow at six for Beziers, where we expect to find
+water carriage to Toulouse.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, 21st April.--We left Montpellier at five in the morning, and
+although the country round the town is certainly more beautiful than the
+greater part of Languedoc we have yet seen, it in a short time became
+very uninteresting; an extended plain, covered with uninclosed fields of
+wheat, and occasionally a plantation of olives. Before reaching Maize, a
+small town situated within a mile of the shore of the Mediterranean, we
+passed through a fine forest, the only considerable one we have seen in
+Languedoc. The road winded along the shore; the day was delightful, and
+as warm as with us in July; and the waters of the Mediterranean lay in a
+perfect calm, clear and still, and beautiful, under the light of a
+glorious sun. The general appearance of the country is certainly not
+beautiful. It improves much upon coming near Pezenas, where the fields
+are divided into green meadows, and interspersed with little gardens, in
+which, although it is now only April, the fruit trees are in full
+blossom, and giving to the view an uncommon beauty. The blossom of the
+pears, peach, and apple-trees, is, I think, richer than I ever saw in
+England. The season is not only much more advanced here than at Aix, but
+the warmth and mildness of the climate gives to the fields and flowers a
+more than common luxuriancy. Many of the meadows are thickly sown with
+the white narcissus, and the hedges, which form their inclosures, are
+covered with the deepest verdure, which is finely contrasted with the
+pink-flowers of the almond trees, rising at intervals in the hedge-rows.
+The wheat round Montpellier was now, in the middle of April, in the ear.
+We set off to-morrow at half-past five, in order to get into the _coches
+d'eau_ at Beziers before 12 (the hour of starting). Hitherto we have
+proceeded without the slightest molestation. The English, I am now
+thoroughly convinced, are not popular amongst the lower orders; but as
+we are the couriers of good news, we are at present well received. Could
+it be believed by an Englishman, that we, who travel at the miserable
+rate of 30 miles a-day, _should be the first to spread the news wherever
+we go_. The reason is, that we get the authentic news through our
+friends and bankers, and circulate it in the inns, instead of the
+ridiculous stories invented by those groping in ignorance. The feelings
+of the people seem excellent every where; the troops alone maintain a
+gloomy silence. The country, from Montpellier, is the same as hitherto,
+flat and insipid: but the crops are much farther advanced than in
+Provence. We had some fine peeps at the Mediterranean this morning. The
+town of Pezenas is prettily situated, and is surrounded by numbers of
+beautiful gardens, though on a small scale. All the fruit trees are here
+in blossom: Green peas a foot and a half high. The ploughs in this part
+of the country are more antiquated than any I have seen. The ploughing
+is very shallow; but nature does all in France.----Distance about 34
+miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, 22d.--Left Pezenas at half past five, and arrived to
+breakfast at half past nine at Beziers. We went to see the _coches
+d'eau_, described as _superbes_ and _magnifiques_ by our French friends.
+Their ideas differ from ours. It would be perfectly impossible for an
+English lady to go in such a conveyance; and few gentlemen, even if
+alone, would have the boldness to venture. The objections are: there is
+but one room for all classes of people; they start at three and four
+each morning; stop at miserable inns, and if you have heavy baggage, it
+must be shifted at the locks, which is tedious and expensive. Adieu to
+all our airy dreams of gliding through Languedoc in these _Cleopatrian
+vessels_. They are infested with an astonishing variety of smells; they
+are exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather; and they are filled
+with bugs, fleas, and all kinds of bad company. The country to-day,
+though still very flat, is much improved in beauty. Very fine large
+meadows, bordered with willows, but too regular. Bullocks as common as
+mules in the plough. Wheat far advanced, and barley, in some small
+spots, in the ear. I learnt some curious particulars, if they can be
+depended upon, concerning this conspiracy of Bonaparte from a Spanish
+officer, who had taken a place in our cabriolet. He says, that one of
+the chief means he has employed to create division in France, and to
+make himself beloved, has been by carrying on a secret correspondence
+with the Protestants, and persuading them that he will support them
+against the Catholics; and by representing the King as wishing to
+oppress them. To the army he has promised, that he will lead them again
+against the allied Powers, who have triumphantly said they have
+conquered them; this is a tender point with the French: At the present
+time, when the troops are deserting their King, and flying to the
+standard of the usurper, still even the most loyal among the people
+cannot bear the idea that the allies should assist in opposing him.
+
+We have continued with our coachman, and carry him on to Toulouse. He is
+an excellent fellow, has a good berlin, with large cabriolet before, and
+three of the finest mules I ever saw. He takes us at a round pace, from
+15 to 20 miles before breakfast, and the rest after it, making up always
+30 miles a-day. The pay for this equipage per mile is not much above a
+franc and a half. We have found it the most comfortable way of
+travelling for so large a party. He carries all our baggage, amounting
+to more than 400 pounds, without any additional expence. The country
+between Pezenas and Beziers, and between Beziers and Narbonne, is richer
+and more beautiful than any part of Languedoc which we have yet seen. It
+is divided into fields of wheat, which is now in the ear, divisions of
+green clover grass, meadows enclosed with rows of willows, and orchards
+scattered around the little villages. These orchards, which are now all
+in blossom, increase in number as you approach the town of Narbonne. We
+have enjoyed to-day another noble view of the distant summits of the
+Pyrenees, towering into the clouds.----Distance, 34 miles--to Narbonne.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday, 23d._--We left Narbonne at half past five, and have travelled
+to-day, through a country more ugly and insipid than any in the south;
+barren hills, low swampy meadows, and dirty villages. There is a total
+want of peasants houses on the lands; but still a very general
+cultivation. Ploughs, harrows, and other instruments, a century behind.
+Fewer vines now, and more wheat. At Moux, one of the police officers
+read out a number of proclamations, sent by the prefect of the
+department, exciting the people to exertions in repelling the usurper.
+The cries of "Vive le Roi" were so faint, that the officer harangued the
+multitude on their want of proper feeling. He did not, however, gain any
+thing. One of the mob cried out, that they were not to be forced to cry
+out "Vive le Roi." Wherever we have gone, I have heard from all ranks
+that the English have supported Bonaparte, and that they are the
+instigators of the civil war. In vain I have argued, that if it were our
+policy to have war with France, why should we have restored the
+Bourbons? Why made peace? Why wasted men and money in Spain? It is all
+in vain--they are inveterately obstinate.----Distance 39 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday, 24th._--We left Carcassone at seven, as we have but a short
+journey to-day. Arrived at Castelnaudry at half past five, and found the
+inn crowded with gentlemen volunteers for the cavalry. The volunteers
+are fine smart young men, and all well mounted. Their horses very
+superior to the cavalry horses in general. We passed a cavalry regiment
+of the line this morning, the 15th dragoons. Horses miserable little
+long-tailed Highland-like ponies, but seemingly very active. The whole
+country through which we have travelled since the commencement of our
+journey in France, is sadly deficient in cattle. We meet with none of
+these groupes of fine horses and cows, which delight us in looking over
+the country in England, in almost every field you pass. This want is
+more particularly remarkable in the south. The country to-day is the
+same; a total want of trees, and of variety of scenery of any kind. No
+peasants houses to be seen scattered over the face of the country; the
+peasantry all crowd into the villages.--Yet there is no want of
+cultivation. The situation of the lower classes is yet extremely
+comfortable. The girls are handsome, and always well drest. The men
+strong and healthy. The young women wear little caps trimmed with lace,
+and the men broad-brimmed picturesque-looking hats: both have shoes and
+stockings. The parish churches in this part of France are in a miserable
+condition. It is no longer here, as in England, that the churches and
+_Curès'_ houses are distinguished by their neatness. Here, the churches
+are fallen into ruins; the windows soiled, and covered with cobwebs. The
+order of the priesthood, from what I have seen, are, I should conceive,
+little respected.----Distance 29 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Castelnaudry at five o'clock, and have
+travelled to-day through a country, which, from Castelnaudry to
+Toulouse, is uniformly flat and bare, and uninteresting. We were
+surprised to-day by meeting on the road a party of English friends, who
+had set out for Bourdeaux, returning by the same road. They informed us,
+they had heard by private letters, that Bonaparte was at the gates of
+Paris, on which account they had returned, and were determined to pass
+into Spain. They told us, that the roads were covered by parties of
+English flying in every direction; and that all the vessels at Bourdeaux
+were said to have already sailed for England. It was, however,
+impossible for us now to turn back; and we continued our route to
+Bourdeaux with very uncomfortable feelings, anxious lest every moment
+should confirm the bad news, and put a stop to our progress to the
+coast, or that, when we arrived, we should find the sea-ports under an
+embargo. Near Toulouse, are seen a few country seats, which relieve the
+eye; but the town is old and ugly, and situated, to all appearance, in a
+swampy flat. We shall see more of it to-morrow. The road from
+Castelnaudry to this is very bad, the worst we have seen yet in the
+south of France; it has been paved, but is much broken up.----Distance
+41 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 26th.--It has become necessary now to change all our plans of
+travelling. Upon visiting our banker this morning, I received from him a
+full confirmation of the bad news--Napoleon is in Paris, and again
+seated on the throne of France. Our banker has procured for us, and
+another party, forming in all 29 English, a small common country boat,
+covered over only with a sail. In this miserable conveyance we embarked
+this afternoon at two, and arrived the first night at Maste. Our passage
+down the Garonne is most rapid, and as the weather is delightful, the
+conveyance is pleasant enough; but our minds are in such a state we
+cannot enjoy any thing. To-morrow I shall continue more connectedly.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, the 27th.--We are now gliding down the Garonne with the utmost
+rapidity and steadiness. The scene before us presents the most perfect
+tranquillity. The weather which we now enjoy is heavenly,--the air soft
+and warm,--and the sun shedding an unclouded radiance upon the glassy
+waters of the Garonne, in whose bosom the romantic scenery through which
+we pass, is reflected in the most perfect beauty. On each side, are the
+most lovely banks covered with hanging orchards, whose trees, in full
+blossom, reach to the brink of the river. We have passed several small
+villages very beautifully situated; and where we have not met with
+these, the country is more generally scattered with the cottages of the
+peasantry, which are seen at intervals, peeping through the woods which
+cover the banks. As our boat passes, the villagers flock from their
+doors, and place themselves in groups on the rocks which overhang the
+river, or crowd into the little meadows which are interspersed between
+the orchards and the gardens. At the moment in which I now write, the
+sun is setting upon a scene so perfectly still and beautiful, that it is
+impossible to believe we are now in the devoted country, experiencing,
+at this very hour, a terrible revolution; the most disastrous political
+convulsion, perhaps, which it has ever yet undergone. In former times,
+the changes from the tranquillity it enjoyed under a monarchial
+government, to the chaos of republicanism, and from that to the sullen
+stagnation of a firm-rooted military despotism, were gradual; they were
+the work of time. But the unbounded ambition of Bonaparte, after a
+series of years, had brought on his downfall, by a natural course of
+events, and France had begun to taste and to relish the blessings of
+peace. On a sudden, that fallen Colossus is raised again, and its dark
+shadow has over-spread the brightening horizon. Could it be credited,
+that within one short month, that man whom we conceived detested in
+France, should have journeyed from one extremity of that kingdom to
+another, without meeting with the slightest resistance? I say journeyed,
+for he had but a handful of men, whom, at almost every town, he left
+behind him, and he proceeded on horseback, or in his carriage, with much
+less precaution than at any former period of his life. France has now
+nothing to hope, but from the heavy struggle that will, I trust,
+immediately take place between her and the allied powers. It will be a
+terrible, but, I trust, short struggle, if the measures are prompt: but
+if he is allowed time to levy a new conscription; if even he has
+sufficient time to collect the hordes of disbanded robbers whom his
+abdication let loose in France, he possesses the same means of
+conducting a long war that he ever possessed. The idea so current in
+France, that this event will only occasion a civil war, is unworthy of a
+moment's attention. Every inhabitant in every town he passed, was said
+to be against him. We heard of nothing but the devoted loyalty of the
+national guards; but at Grenoble, at Lyons, and at Paris, was there
+found a man to discharge his musket? No! against a small number of
+regular and veteran troops, no French militia, no volunteers will ever
+fight, or if they do, it will be but for a moment; each city will yield
+in its turn.
+
+The country is improving; the banks, in many places, are beautiful; for
+some days past we have been in the country of wheat, but now we are
+again arrived among the vines. Very little commerce on this river,
+although celebrated as possessing more than any one in France. It
+reminds me of the state of commerce in India,--boats gliding down
+rapidly with the stream, and toiling up in tracking. The shape, also, of
+the boats is the same. We have this moment passed a boat full of
+English, and the sailors have shouted out, that the white flag is no
+longer flying at Bourdeaux. If the town has declared for the ex-Emperor,
+I dread to think of our fate.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, the 28th.--This morning, at three, I left my party, and took
+a very light gig, determined (as the news were getting daily worse, and
+the road full of English hurrying to Bourdeaux), to post it from Agen. I
+was attended by a friend. By paying the post-boys double hires, we got
+on very fast, and although, from their advanced age and infirmities, the
+generality of French conveyances will not suffer themselves to be
+hurried beyond their ordinary pace, this was no time to make any such
+allowances. We accordingly hurried on, and after having broke down four
+times, we arrived at Bourdeaux at six in the evening, a distance of more
+than a hundred miles; and were delighted to see the white flag still
+displayed from all the public buildings. The country from Agen to
+Bourdeaux is the richest I have seen in France, chiefly laid out in
+vines, dressed with much more care than any we have yet seen; many
+fields also of fine wheat, and some meadows of grass pasture. Every
+thing is much further advanced than in Languedoc, even allowing for the
+advance in the days we have passed in travelling. Barley not only in
+the ear, but some fields even yellowing. Bourdeaux is a noble town,
+though not so fine, I think, as Marseilles. We arrived just in time: a
+few hours later, and I should have found no passage.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_ morning, the 29th.--I have settled for the last
+accommodations to be had, viz. a small cabin in a brig, for which I pay
+L.130. The owner, like every other owner, is full of great promises; but
+in these cases, I make it a rule to believe only one half. Bourdeaux
+shews the most determined loyalty; but, alas! there are troops of the
+line in the town, and in the fort of Blaye. Instead of sending these
+troops away, and guarding the town by the national guards, they content
+themselves with giving dinners to each other, and making the drunken
+soldiers cry, "Vive le Roi!" In England, every thing is done by a
+dinner; perhaps they are imitating the English: but dinners will not do
+in this case; decided measures must be taken, or Bourdeaux will fall, in
+spite of its loyalty, and the noise it makes. The journal published
+here, of which I have secured most of the numbers, from Napoleon's
+landing to this day, is full of enthusiastic addresses:--The general
+commanding the troops to the national guards,--the national guards to
+the troops,--the mayor to his constituents,--the constituents to the
+mayor;--all this is well, but it will do nothing. Although every thing
+is yet quiet, I am determined to hurry our departure, for I do not think
+there is a doubt of the issue. Since I entered Bourdeaux, I have always
+thought it would yield on the first attack.
+
+_Thursday_, the 30th.--Things look very ill. The fort of Blaye has
+hoisted the tri-coloured flag. Thank heaven our vessel passed it to-day;
+we should otherwise probably have been fired upon. We go to Poillac,
+where we are to embark by land, as a party of English, who attempted to
+go by water, were stopt and made prisoners. The town of Bourdeaux is in
+a dead calm; the sounds of loyalty have ceased, and a mysterious silence
+reigns throughout the streets: I am sure all is not well. Suddenly after
+all this silence, there has been a most rapid transition to sentiments
+of the most devoted loyalty. This has been occasioned by a great
+entertainment given by the national guards to the troops of the line; so
+that I am afraid that although these regular soldiers of the regular
+army, when elated with wine, choose to be devoted loyalists, their
+political sentiments may undergo many different changes upon their
+return to sobriety. At present, the shout of Vive le Roi, from the
+different troops of the line and national guards which are patroling the
+streets, is loud and reiterated. Napoleon has sent to-day his addresses
+and declarations to Bourdeaux, but the couriers have been imprisoned,
+and the civil authorities have sworn to continue faithful to their King.
+This loyalty will be immediately put to the test, for Clausel is
+advancing to the walls. The Dutchess d'Angouleme passed through the
+streets, and visited the _casernes_ of the troops: Indeed her exertions
+are incessant. To her addresses the people are enthusiastic in their
+replies, but the troops continue, as I expected, sullen and silent; they
+answered, that they would not forget their duty to her, as far as not
+injuring her. I trust that she passed our hotel this evening for the
+last time, and that she has left Bourdeaux for England. Every individual
+in this city, the troops excepted, appears to hate and detest Napoleon
+as cordially as he detests them. They expect immediate destruction if he
+takes the town. Their commerce must be ruined; yet there is no
+exertion--nothing but noise. Vive le Roi is in every heart, but they
+are overawed by the troops; it costs nothing. Subscriptions, however,
+for arming the militia, go on slowly. They seem always to keep a sharp
+eye to their pockets, although, as far as shouting and bellowing is
+required, they are willing to levy any contribution on their lungs. The
+French are indeed miserably poor, but they are also miserably
+avaricious. There is nothing even approaching to national spirit; yet
+their prudence sometimes gets the better even of their economy. One
+instance, which I witnessed to-day, will shew the way in which a
+Frenchman acts in times like these: I was in a shop when one of the
+noblesse entered, bearing a subscription paper. He addressed the
+shopkeeper, saying, that he begged for his subscription, as he knew he
+was a royalist. I never _subscribe_ my name in times like these, said
+the cautious Frenchman, but I will give you some money. The gentleman
+entreated, urging, that respectable _subscriptions_, more than money,
+were wanted; but all in vain. The shopkeeper paid his ten shillings,
+saying, _he would always be the first to support his King_.
+
+I entered a bookseller's shop, and asked for the political writings of
+the day. The man looked me cautiously in the face, and said he had none
+of them. I happened to see one on the table, and asked him for it,
+telling him that I was an Englishman, and wished to carry them with me;
+he then bid me step in, and from hidden corners of the inner-shop, he
+produced the whole mass of pamphlets.--All this denotes that a change is
+immediately expected.
+
+This last night has been passed as might be expected, owing to the
+circumstances in which we were placed, in much agitation. Clausel is
+every moment advancing up the town. Every thing is in confusion. The
+troops declare they will not fire a shot. The national guards are
+wavering and undecided, and this moment (five in the morning) our
+coachman has knocked at our door to tell us that we cannot remain
+another moment safe in the town.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday_, the 31st.--We set off accordingly at sunrise, before any one
+was abroad in the street. Our coachman reported, that General Clausel
+had reached the gates, and that the national guard had been beat off. We
+have arrived, therefore, at the most critical moment, and may be
+grateful that we have escaped. The road between Bourdeaux and Poillac
+is very bad. Arrived at the inn at half way, we met with the Marquis de
+Valsuzenai, prefect of the town, who confirmed the bad news: We learnt
+from him, that at three in the morning of the 30th, the town had
+capitulated without a shot having been fired. Two men were killed by a
+mistake of the soldiers firing, upon their own officers; a miserable
+resistance! But it could not be otherwise, as no militia could long
+stand against regulars. Still I expected tumults in the streets--rising
+among the inhabitants--weeping and wailing. But no: the French are
+unlike any other nation, they have no energy, no principle. Miserable
+people! We arrived at Poillac just as it grew dark, and owing to the
+sullen insolence of our coachman, who was a complete revolutionist, and
+to his hatred for the English, which evinced itself the moment he found
+that Bourdeaux had capitulated, we found it difficult to get any thing
+like accommodation. I am happy to add, that this same fellow, meeting
+another party of English, and beginning to be insolent, an Irish
+gentleman, with that prompt and decisive justice which characterises his
+country, by one blow of his fist laid him speechless upon the pavement.
+
+Upon meeting the Prefect of Bourdeaux, between that town and the little
+sea-port Poillac, in disguise, and hurrying to the shore, he informed us
+that before leaving the city, he had fallen on his knees before the
+Dutchess d'Angouleme, to persuade her to embark for England, and had,
+after much entreaty, succeeded. That before setting out himself, he had
+sent her post-horses, and most anxiously expected her arrival, although
+he had doubts whether she would be permitted to leave the town. As we
+pursued our route, we passed the Chateau Margot. The Marquis, to whom it
+belonged, was watching on the road with his young daughter; and the
+moment our carriage came in sight, he rushed up in great agitation, and
+exclaiming, "Where is the Dutchess? Why does she not come. She must be
+concealed at my house to-night. There are troops stationed at a league's
+distance from this to prevent her escape." Then observing the fair
+complexion of one of the ladies of our party, he cried out, "It is the
+Dutchess, it is my beloved Princess. Oh! why have you no avant garde;
+you must not proceed." The poor old man was in a state of extreme
+agitation, and his daughter weeping. It was a few minutes before we
+could undeceive him, and his assurances that we should be stopt by the
+troops on the road, afforded us no very cheering prospect as we
+proceeded on our journey. No troops, however, appeared, and we arrived
+safely at Poillac at seven o'clock.
+
+The Dutchess did not appear that night; but early next morning, we were
+called to the window, by hearing a great bustle in the street. It was
+occasioned by the arrival of this unfortunate Princess. She had three or
+four carriages along with her, filled with her attendants, and was
+escorted by a party of the national guards. Their entry into Poillac
+formed a very mournful procession; she herself looked deadly pale,
+although seemingly calm and collected. We saw many of the officers of
+the national guard crowding round her with tears in their eyes. There
+was a little chapel close to where we were lodged, and while the other
+ladies went down to the frigate to prepare for the embarkation, we heard
+that the Dutchess herself had gone to mass. After we imagined that the
+service would be nearly concluded, two of the ladies of our party
+entered the chapel, and placed themselves near to where they knew she
+would pass. As she came near them, observing that they were English, and
+much affected, she held out her hand to them; one of them said, "Oh, go
+to our England, you will be cherished there." "Yes, yes," replied she,
+"I am now going to your country;" and when they expressed a wish that
+this storm would be quickly over, and that when she again returned to
+France it would be for lasting happiness. The Dutchess replied with an
+expression which was almost cheerful, "Indeed, I hope so." This was the
+last time that any of us saw her. There was then in her expression a
+look of sweet and tranquil suffering, which was irresistibly affecting.
+
+* * *
+
+We embarked, this morning, _Saturday_, the 1st, on board the William
+Sibbald, after a night of troubles. Most fortunately for me, I had not
+trusted entirely to the owner's word, and had provided three beds and
+some provisions; for the captain told us, he could not provide ship
+room, and neither mattress nor provision of any kind.----Here we are
+then, in no very comfortable circumstances, yet thankful to escape from
+this miserable country. There are others in much greater misery than we.
+The Count de Lynch, Mayor of Bourdeaux, his brother, and another
+relation, the General commanding the national guard, and four or five
+French fugitives, have been sent on board here, by the Consul and the
+English Captain of the frigate; and they have neither clothes, nor beds,
+nor victuals: they leave their fortunes and their families behind them.
+"Alas! what a prospect," one of them exclaimed to-day; "this is the
+third fortune Bonaparte has lost to me." The unfortunate Dutchess
+d'Angouleme is now safe on board the English frigate. On leaving
+Bourdeaux, the Dutchess printed an address to the inhabitants, stating
+the reasons of her leaving them, to prevent the town from becoming a
+scene of blood and pillage. Alas! she knows not her own countrymen; they
+would not fight an hour to save her life: yet it is not because they do
+not love her--she is adored--the whole family are adored. The good among
+the nation wish for peace, but the troops are for war, and they are
+all-powerful. It is unjust to say that France ought to be allowed to
+remain under Napoleon, as she has desired his return: the army chiefly
+have desired it, and plotted it. They burn for pillage and for revenge
+on the allies, who had humbled their pride. If the allies are not
+prompt, he will again be master of his former territory. Something might
+even yet be done at Bourdeaux by an English army.
+
+We are now in the mouth of the English channel, and in full hopes, that
+as our stock, of water and of patience is almost exhausted, the Captain
+will put us into the first English port. May God grant us soon the sight
+of an English inn, and an English post-chaise, and in a day we shall
+forget all our troubles.
+
+END OF THE JOURNAL.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+STATE OP FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON.
+
+
+To trace, with accuracy, the effects of the revolution and of the
+military despotism of Napoleon on the kingdom of France, it would be
+necessary to attend to the following subjects:--the state of
+commerce--wealth of the nation, and division of this wealth--the state
+of agriculture--the condition of the towns and villages--of the noblesse
+and their property--the condition of the lower ranks, namely, the
+merchants, tradesmen, artificers, peasants, poor, and beggars--the state
+of private and public manners--the dress of the people--their
+amusements--the state of religion and morality--of criminal delinquency
+and the administration of justice.
+
+But to treat all these different subjects, and to diverge into the
+necessary observations which they would naturally suggest, would form of
+itself a voluminous work. In order, however, to judge fairly of the
+state of France, and of the character of the people, we must select and
+make observations on a few of the most material points. In my Journal,
+which accompanies this, I have purposely said but little on the state of
+the people and their character, as I intended to finish my travels
+before I formed my opinion. I did not wish to be guilty of the same
+mistake with another traveller, who, coming to an inn in which he had a
+bad egg for breakfast, served by an ugly girl, immediately set down in
+his Journal, "In this country, the eggs are all bad, and the women all
+ugly." My readers are already aware of the opportunities I possessed of
+obtaining information. They are such as present themselves to almost
+every traveller in France; and they will not therefore be surprised if
+my remarks are somewhat common-place. They will recollect that our party
+disembarked at Dieppe, and travelled from one coast to the other by
+Rouen, Paris, Lyons and Aix. By travelling very slowly, never above 30
+miles a-day, I had, perhaps a better opportunity than common of seeing
+the country, and of conversing with the inhabitants; and I have been
+more than commonly fortunate in forming acquaintance with a number of
+very well informed men in the town, which we selected as the place of
+our residence in the winter: This was Aix, in Provence. I have described
+it before in my Journal, and have only to add, that the head court for
+four departments is held there; that there is a College for the study of
+Law and Divinity, and that it is remarkable for possessing a society of
+men better informed, and of more liberal education, than most other
+towns in France.
+
+The inhabitants of Provence have always been marked by excesses of
+affection or disaffection. They do nothing in moderation; "Les têtes
+chaudes de Provence," is an expression quite common in France. In the
+commencement of the revolution, the bands of Provençals, chiefly
+Marseillois, were the leaders in every outrage. And when the tyrant,
+Napoleon, had fallen from his power, they were among the first to cry
+"Vivent les Bourbons!" They would have torn him to pieces on his way to
+Frejus, had he not been at times disguised, and at other times well
+protected by the troops and police in the villages through which he
+passed. It will then easily be imagined that the English were received
+with open arms at Aix. They heaped on us kindnesses of every
+description, and our only difficulty was to limit our acquaintance. From
+among the most moderate and best informed of our friends at Aix, I
+attempted to collect a few traits and anecdotes of Napoleon, and with
+their assistance, I shall, in the first instance, attempt giving a
+sketch of his character. It would be tedious, as well as unnecessary, to
+detail all the circumstances of his life; for most of these are
+generally known. I shall therefore only mention such as we are not
+generally acquainted with.
+
+* * *
+
+NAPOLEON was born at Ajaccio, in Corsica, not, as is generally supposed,
+in August 1769, but in February 1768. He had a motive for thus
+falsifying even the date of his birth; he conceived that it would assist
+his ambitious views, if he could prove that he was born in a province of
+France, and it was not till 1769 that Corsica became entitled to that
+denomination. His reputed father was not a _huissier_ (or bailiff) as is
+generally stated, but a _greffier_ (or register of one of the courts of
+justice). His mother is a Genoese; she is a woman of very bad
+character; and it is currently reported that Napoleon was the son of
+General Paoli; and that Louis and Jerome were the sons of the Marquis de
+Marbeuf, governor of the island. The conduct of the Marquis to the
+family of Bonaparte, then in the utmost indigence, would sanction a
+belief in this account; he protected the whole family, but particularly
+the sons, and he caused Napoleon to be placed at the Military School of
+Brienne, where he supplied him with money. This money was never spent
+among his companions, but went to purchase mathematical books and
+instruments, and to assist him in erecting fortifications. The only
+times when he deigned to amuse himself with others was during the
+attacks of these fortifications, and immediately on these being
+finished, he would retire and shut himself up among his books and
+mathematical instruments. He was, when a boy, always morose, tyrannical
+and domineering. "[11]Il motrait dans ces jeux cet esprit de domination
+qu'il a depuis manifestée sur le grand theatre du monde; et celui qui
+devoit un jour epouvanter l'Europe a commencè par etre le maitre et
+l'effroi d'une troupe d'enfans[12]."
+
+He left the military college with the rank of lieutenant of artillery,
+and bearing a character which was not likely to recommend him among good
+men. He had very early displayed principles of a most daring nature. In
+a conversation with the master of the academy, some discussion having
+taken place on the subject of the difficulty of governing a great
+nation, the young Corsican remarked, "that the greatest nations were as
+easily managed as a school of boys, but that kings always studied to
+make themselves beloved, and thus worked their own ruin." The infant
+despot of France was certainly determined that no such foolish humanity
+should dictate rules to his ambition. He was once in a private company,
+where a lady making some remarks on the character of Marshal Turenne,
+declared that she would have loved him had he not burned the Palatinate.
+"And of what consequence was that, Madame," said the young Napoleon,
+"provided it assisted his plans?" We may here trace the same unfeeling
+heart that ordered the explosion of the magazine of Grenelle, which, if
+his orders had been executed, must have laid Paris in ruins. Some of my
+readers may, perhaps, not have seen an authentic statement of this most
+horrid circumstance, I shall therefore give a translation of the letter
+of Maillard Lescourt, major of artillery, taken from the Journal des
+Debats of the 7th April: "I was employed, on the evening before the
+attack of Paris, in assembling the horses necessary for the removal of
+the artillery, and was assisted in this duty by the officers of the
+'Direction Generale.' At nine at night a colonel gallopped up to the
+gate of the grating of St Dominique, where I was standing, and asked to
+speak to the Directeur d'Artillerie. On my being shewn to him, he
+immediately asked me if the powder magazine at Grenelle bad been
+evacuated? I replied that it had not, and that there was neither time
+nor horses for the purpose. Then, Sir, said he, it must be blown up. I
+turned pale, and trembled, not reflecting that there was no occasion to
+distress myself for an order which was not written, and with the bearer
+of which I was unacquainted. Do you hesitate? said the Colonel.--It
+immediately occurred to me, that the same order might be given to
+others, if I did not accept of it; I therefore calmly replied to him,
+that I should immediately set about it. Become master of this frightful
+secret, I entrusted it to no one." At Paris we met with persons of much
+respectability, who vouched for the truth of this statement.
+
+There can be no doubt that this order was given by Napoleon, for at this
+time the other ruling authorities had left Paris. It is by no means
+inconsistent with the character of the man; never, in any instance, has
+he been known to value the lives of men, where either ambition or
+revenge instigated him. Beauchamp, in his history of the last campaign,
+gives the following anecdote;[13] "Sire, (lui disoit un general, en le
+felicitant sur la victoire de Montmirail), quel beau jour, si nous ne
+voyions autour de nous tant de villes et de pays devastès. Tant mieux,
+replique Napoleon, cela me donne des soldats!!"
+
+The second capture of Rheims in that campaign was an object of little
+consequence to him, but he now determined it should suffer by fire and
+sword. From the heights he looked down on the town, then partly on fire,
+and smiling said, [14]"Eh bien, dans une heure les dames de Rheims
+auront grand peur." His resentment against the towns that declared for
+the Bourbons was beyond all bounds; The following account of the murder
+of the unfortunate De Goualt is taken from Beauchamp's interesting
+work:[15] "On le saisit, on le conduit à l'hotel de ville, devant une
+commission militaire, qui proçede à son jugement, on plutôt à sa
+condamnation. Une heure s'etait à peine ecoulee qu'un officier survient
+se fait ouvrir les portes, et demande si la sentence est prononçee. Les
+juges vont aller aux voix, dit on. "Qu'on le fusille, sur le champ," dit
+l'officier; "l'Empereur l'ordonne." Le malhereux Goualt est condamne.
+Le deuil est génerale dans la ville. Le proprietaire de la maison,
+qu'avoit choisi Bonaparte pour y etablir son quartier, solicite une
+audience; il l'obtient. "Sire, (dit Monsieur du Chatel à Napoleon), un
+jour de triomphe doit etre un jour de clemence. Je viens de supplier
+votre Majesté d'accorder à toute la ville de Troyes la grace d'un de nos
+malheureux compatriotes qui vient d'etre condamne a mort." "Sortez," dit
+le tyran, d'un air faronche, "Vous oubliez qui vous etes chez moi." Il
+etait onze heures et cet infortune sortait de l'hotel de ville, escorte
+par des gens-d'armes, portant, attache à son dos, et à sa poitrine un
+ecriteau en gros caracteres, dans ces mots, "Traitre a la patrie,"
+qu'on lisait à la lueur des flambeaux. Le dechirant et lugubre cortege
+se dirigeait vers la place du marche destine aux executions criminelles.
+La on veut bander les yeux au condamne. Il s'y refuse, et dit d'une voix
+ferme qu'il saura mourir pour son Roi. Lui meme donne le signal de tirer
+et c'est en criant, "Vive le Roi! Vive Louis XVIII!" qu'il rend le
+dernier soupir."
+
+Tacitus, in describing the Corsicans, gives us three of the principal
+ingredients in the character of Napoleon, when he says, [16]"Ulcisci,
+prima lex est, altera, mentiri, tertia, negare Deos." To these we may
+add unlimited ambition, insatiable vanity, considerable courage at
+times, and the most dastardly cowardice at others. It must be owned,
+that this last is an extraordinary mixture; but I am inclined to
+believe, in despite of the many proofs of rash and impetuous courage,
+that Napoleon was in the main, and whenever life and existence was at
+stake, a cool and selfish coward. His rival Moreau always thought so.
+Immediately before the campaign of Dresden, in a conversation on
+Napoleon's character, this General observed, [17]"Ce qui characterise
+cet homme, ce'st le mensonge et l'amour de la vie; Je vais l'attaquer,
+je le battrai, et je le verrai a mes pieds me demander la vie."--It
+pleased Providence that a part only of this prediction should be
+accomplished; but we have seen that Bonaparte dared not court the death
+of Moreau. Never was more decided cowardice shewn by any man than by
+Napoleon after the entry of the allies into Paris. How easily might he
+have fought his way, with a numerous band of determined followers, who,
+to the last minute, never failed him; but he preferred remaining to beg
+for his life, and to attend to the removal _of his wines and
+furniture_!! But we must proceed more regularly in developing the traits
+of this extraordinary man. A gentleman of Aix, one of whose near
+relations had the charge of Napoleon, when his character was suspected
+at Toulon, gave me the following particulars of his first employment.
+During the siege of Toulon, he had greatly distinguished himself, and
+had applied to the "Commissaires de Convention," who at that time
+possessed great power in the army, to promote him; but these men
+detesting Bonaparte's character, refused his request.--On this occasion,
+General De Gominier said to them, [18]"Avancez cet officier; car si vous
+ne l'avancez pas, il saura bien s'avancer lui meme." The Commissaries
+could no longer refuse, and Bonaparte was appointed colonel of
+artillery. Shortly after this, having got into some scrape from his
+violent and turbulent disposition, he was put under arrest; and it was
+even proposed that he should be tried and executed (a necessary
+consequence of a trial at that period). His situation at this time was
+extremely unpromising; Robespierre and his accomplices, Daunton, St
+Juste, Barrere, &c. were all either put to death or forced to conceal
+themselves. Bonaparte now perceived, that for the accomplishment of his
+views, it was necessary that he should forsake his haughty and
+domineering tone, and flatter those in power. He immediately commenced a
+series of intrigues, and by the assistance of his friends at Paris, and
+that good fortune which has always befriended him, he soon found an
+opportunity of extricating himself from the danger which surrounded him.
+Barras, who was then at the head of the administration, under the title
+of Directeur, alarmed by the distracted state of Paris, and dreading the
+return of the Bourbons, assembled a council of his friends and
+associates in crime; it was then determined that an attack should
+immediately be made on the Parisian royalists, or, as the gentleman who
+gave me this account expressed it, [19]"Dissiper les royalistes, et
+foudroyer les Parisiens jusque dans leurs foyers."
+
+But where were they to find a Frenchman who would take upon him the
+execution of so barbarous an order? One of the meeting mentioned
+Bonaparte, and his well-known character determined the directors in
+their choice. He was ordered to Paris, and the hand of Madame
+Beauharnois, and the command of the army of Italy, held out to him as
+the reward of his services, provided he succeeded in _dissipating_ the
+royalists. It is well known that he did succeed to his utmost wish; the
+streets of Paris were strewed with dead bodies, and the power of the
+Directory was proclaimed by peals of artillery.
+
+Shortly after this, Bonaparte commenced that campaign in Italy, in which
+he so highly signalised himself as a great general and a brave soldier.
+It is the general opinion of the French that this was the only campaign
+in which Napoleon shewed personal courage; others allege, that he
+continued to display the greatest bravery till the siege of Acre. To
+reconcile the different opinions with respect to the character of
+Napoleon in this point, is a matter of much difficulty. After having
+heard the subject repeatedly discussed by officers who had accompanied
+him in many of his campaigns; after having read all the pamphlets of the
+day, I am inclined to think that the character given of him in that
+work, perhaps erroneously believed to be written by his valet, is the
+most just. This book certainly contains much exaggeration, but it is by
+no means considered, by the French whom I have met, as a forgery. The
+author must, from his style, be a man of some education; and he asserts
+that he was with him in all his battles, from the battle of Marengo to
+the campaign of Paris. He declares, that Napoleon was _courageous only
+in success, brave only when victorious_; that the slightest reverse made
+him a coward. His conduct in Egypt, in abandoning his army, his
+barbarous and unfeeling flight from Moscow, and his last scene at
+Fontainbleau, are sufficient proofs of this.
+
+The battle of Marengo is generally instanced as the one in which
+Napoleon shewed the greatest personal courage; but this statement
+neither agrees with the account given in the above work, nor by Monsieur
+Gaillais. From the work of the last mentioned gentleman, entitled
+"Histoire de Dix huit Brumaire," I shall extract a few lines on the
+subject of this battle.[20] "A la pointe du jour les Autrichiens
+commencerent l'attaque, dabord assez lentement, plus vivement ensuite,
+et enfin avec une telle furie que les Français furent enfoncès de tous
+cotès. Dans ce moment affreux ou les morts et les mourants jonchaiènt la
+terre, le premier Consul, placè au milieu de sa garde, semblait
+immuable, insensible, et comme frappè de la foudre. Vainement les
+generaux lui depechaient coup sur coup leurs Aides de Camp, pour
+demander des secours; vainement les Aides de Camp attendaient les
+ordres; il n'endonnait aucune; il donnait a peine signe de la vie.
+Plusieurs penserent que croyant la battaille perdue, il voulut se faire
+tuer. D'autres, avec plus de raison, se persuaderent qu'il avoit perdu
+la tête, et qu'il ne voyait et n'entendait plus rien de se qui se disoit
+et de ce qui se passait autour de lui. Le General Berthier vint le prier
+instamment de se retirer; au lieu de lui repondre il se coucha par
+terre. Cependant les Français fuyerent a toutes jambes, la bataille
+etoit perdue lorsque tout a coup on entendait dire que le General
+Dessaix arrive avec une division de troupes fraiches. Bientot apres on
+le voit paroitre lui meme a leur tête; les fuyards se ralliaient
+derrierè ses colonnes--leur courage est revenuè--la chance tourne--les
+Français attaquent a leur tour avec la meme furie qu'ils avoient etê
+attaquè--et brulent d'effacer la honte de leur defaite du matin."
+
+Desaix fell in this battle, and the whole glory of it was given to
+Napoleon. The last words of this gallant man were these: [21]"Je meurs
+avec le regret de n'avoir pas assez vecu pour ma patrie.".
+
+This account of Napoleon's behaviour at Marengo was confirmed to me at
+Aix, by two French officers of rank who had been present at the battle.
+
+I do not mean to give a life of Napoleon; ere a year is past, I have not
+a doubt that we shall have but too many; indeed, already they are not
+wanting in England. I mean only to give such anecdotes as are not so
+generally known, and to attempt an explanation of the two most
+interesting circumstances in his career, viz. the means he has employed
+in his aggrandisement, and the causes of his downfall. It is only when
+we survey the extent of his power, without reflecting on the gradual
+steps which led to it, that we are astonished and confounded; for, in
+reality, when his means are considered, and the state of France at the
+time is placed before our eyes, much of the difficulty vanishes; and we
+perceive, that any daring character, making use of the same means, might
+have arrived at the same end. It is foolish to deny him (as many of his
+biographers do), great military talent, for that he certainly possessed,
+as long as his good fortune allowed him to display it. This talent he
+not only evinced in the formation of his plans, but in the execution
+also. No man knew better the means of calling forth the inexhaustible
+military resources of France. The people of that country were always
+brave; but Bonaparte alone knew how to make them all soldiers. The
+desire of glory has ever characterized the nation, and the state of
+tyranny and oppression in which they were kept under his government, had
+no effect in diminishing this passion. The French people under Napoleon
+furnish a striking exception to the maxim of Montesquieu, when he says,
+[22]"On peut poser pour maxime, que dans chaque etat le desir de la
+gloire existe avec la liberté de sujets, et diminue avec elle; la gloire
+n'est jamais compagne de la servitude."
+
+The French forget their misfortunes almost immediately. After the
+campaign of Moscow, one would have thought that the hardships they
+endured might have given them a sufficient disgust, and that it was
+likely they would forsake one who shewed so little feeling for them. I
+happened once to meet with several of the poor wretches who had been
+with him; they were then on their road home; most of them were entirely
+disabled; one had his toes frozen off--they declared that they _would
+again fight under him if they were able_. At one of the inns, I met with
+a young officer who had also been with him at Moscow: I happened to
+enquire how they could bear the cold? "We were as comfortable," said he,
+"as you and I are at this fire-side." The poor fellow was not twenty-one
+years old. [23]"La jeunesse d'aujour-d'hui est elevee dans d'autres
+principes; l'amour de la gloire sur tout a jetè des profondes racines;
+il est devenu l'attribut le plus distinctif du caractere national,
+exaltè par vingt ans de succes continues. Mais cette gloire meme etoit
+devenue notre idole, elle absorboit toutes les pensees des braves mis
+hors-de-combat par leurs blessures, toutes les esperances des jeunes
+gens qui faisaient leur premieres armes. Un coup imprevu l'a frappè,
+nous trouvons dans nos coeurs une vide semblable a celui qui trouve un
+amant qui a perdu l'objet de sa passion; tout se qu'il voit, tout ce
+qu'il entende renouvelle sa douleur. Ce sentiment rend notre situation
+vague et penible; chacun cherche a se dissimuler la place qu'il sente
+exister au fond de son coeur. On le regarde comme humilie, apres vingt
+ans des triomphes continues, pour avoir perdu une seule partie
+malhereusement etait la partie d'honneur; et qui a fait la regle de nos
+destinees."--Such is the language of the military.
+
+In conversation one evening with one of the noblesse, who had suffered
+in the revolution, he told me that this military spirit extended not
+only to all ranks and professions, but to all ages. He said that the
+young men in the schools refused to learn any thing but mathematics and
+the science of arms; and that he recollected many instances of boys ten
+and twelve years of age, daily entreating their fathers and mothers to
+permit them to join Napoleon. It was in vain to represent to them the
+hardships they must suffer; their constant reply was, "If we die, we
+will at least find glory." Read the campaign of Moscow, said another
+gentleman to me, you will there see the French character:[24] "Les
+François sont les seuls dans l'univers qui pourroient rire meme en
+gelant."
+
+Napoleon certainly greatly encreased the military spirit of the people:
+Before his time, you heard of commerce, of agriculture, of manufactures,
+as furnishing the support of the community; under him, you heard of
+nothing but war. The rapid destruction of the population of France
+occasioned constant promotion, and the army became the most promising
+profession. It was a profession in which no education was wanting--to
+which all had access. Bonaparte never allowed merit to go unrewarded.
+The institution of the Legion of Honour alone was an instrument in his
+hands of sufficient power to call forth the energy of a brave people; to
+this rank even the private soldier might arrive. In this organization
+of the army, therefore, we may trace his first means of success.
+
+The next was his military _tactique_:--The great and simple principle on
+which this was founded, is evident in every one of the pitched battles
+which he gained;--he out-numbered his opponents,--he sacrificed a
+troop,--a battalion,--a division,--or a whole army without bestowing a
+moment's thought. Bonaparte has sometimes, though very seldom, shewn
+that his heart could be touched, but never, on any occasion, did the
+miserable display of carnage in the field of battle call forth these
+feelings; never was he known to pity his soldiers. On seeing a body of
+fresh recruits join the army, his favourite expression was always,
+[25]"Eh bien, voyez encore de matiere premiere, du chair a cannon."
+After a battle, when he rode over the ground, he would smile, and say,
+[26]"Ma foi, voyez une grande consommation." The day after the battle of
+Prusse-Eylau, his valet thus describes his visit to the field of blood:
+[27]"Il faisoit un froid glacial, des mourants respiroient encore; la
+foule des cadavres et les cavitès noiratres qui le sang des hommes avoit
+laisse dans la neigè faisoit un affreux contraste. L'etat Major etoit
+peniblement affectè. L'Empereur seul contemplait froidement cette scene
+de deuil et de sang. Je poussai mon cheval quelques pas devant le sien;
+j'etois eurieux de l'observer dans un pareil moment. Vous eussiez dit
+qu'il etoit alors detachè de toutes les affections humaines, que tout ce
+qui l'environnait n'existoit pour lui. Il parloit tranquillement des
+evenemens de la veille. En passant devant une groupe des grenadiers
+Russes massacrès, le cheval d'un Aide-de-Camp avoit peur. Le Prince
+l'appercevait: "Ce cheval, lui dit il, froidement, est un lache."
+
+It cannot be doubted that such a man would sacrifice regiment after
+regiment to obtain his purpose; we may indeed wonder, that when known to
+possess such a heart, he was obeyed by his men: But a little thought, a
+little reflection on the means he took to ingratiate himself with his
+troops will remove this difficulty. Look also at his dispatches, his
+proclamations, and orders; they appear the effusion of the father of a
+family addressing his children: "Their country required the sacrifices,
+which he deplored." All thought is at an end when they are thus attacked
+on their weak side. At other times, the hope of plunder was held out to
+them. The words, _glory, honour, their country, laurels, immortal
+fame_--these words, fascinating to the ear of any people, are more
+peculiarly so to the French. When conversing with an old French officer,
+who had served under the Prince of Condè in the emigrant army, on this
+subject, he made this remark: "Sir, you do not know the French;
+assemble them together, and having pronounced the words _glory, honour
+and your country_, point to the moon, and you will have an army ready to
+undertake the enterprise." Napoleon was well aware of this weakness of
+the French. He would ride through the ranks on the eve of a battle,
+would recall their former victories to one body; make promises to a
+second; joke with a third,--cold, distant, and forbidding at all other
+times, he is described as affable in the extreme on all such occasions.
+The meanest soldier might then address him.
+
+The rapid military promotion may be given as another cause of Napoleon's
+success. The most distinguished corps were, of course, the greatest
+sufferers; and the young man who joined the army, as a lieutenant, on
+the eve of an action, was a captain the next day, perhaps a colonel
+before he had seen a year's service. [28]"Des ouvriers sortis de leurs
+atteliers (says Monsieur Gaillais in his "Histoire de Dix Huit
+Brumaire,") des paysans echappes de villages, avec un bonnet sur la tête
+et un baton a la main, devenaient au bout de six mois des soldats
+intrepides, et au bout de deux ans des officiers agueris, et des
+generaux redoubtables au plus anciens generaux de l'Europe." Nothing
+struck me more forcibly than the youth of the French officers. The
+generals only are veterans, for Bonaparte well knew, that experience is
+as necessary as courage in a General.
+
+Next, we may direct our attention to the means which this despot
+possessed, by filling the war department with his own creatures; by
+giving liberal salaries and unlimited power to the prefects of the
+different departments, he amassed both troops and pay to support them.
+The tyrannic measures for levying these became at last insupportable;
+the people were rising in the villages, and by force of arms rescuing
+their companions; and it is very probable that he might have found,
+latterly, a want of men; but for years he has had at his disposal three
+hundred thousand men annually. In describing the effects of the
+conscription, one of the members of the Senate made use of the
+following expression:--[29]"On moissonne les homines trois fois
+l'anneé."
+
+With such supplies, what single power could resist him? War with him
+became a mere mechanical calculation. Among the causes of his elevation,
+the use he made of the other continental Powers must not be forgotten;
+whether gained by corruption, treachery, or force, they all became his
+allies; they were all compelled to assist him with troops. When the
+Sovereigns of these countries consented to his plans, they were
+permitted to govern their own kingdoms, otherwise the needy family of
+Bonaparte supplied the _roitelets_ at a moment's warning. These little
+monarchs, he is said to have treated with the utmost contempt.
+
+My readers may perhaps be inclined to smile, when I mention among the
+causes of Napoleon's elevation, the use made by him of ballad-singers,
+newsmongers, pedlars, &c. But really, on a deliberate view of his system
+of juggling and deception, I am inclined to believe, that it was one of
+his most powerful engines. The people of France are not only the most
+vain, but the most credulous in the world. To work on their feelings,
+he kept in constant pay author of every description, from the man who
+composed the Vaudeville, which was sold for half a sous, to the authors
+of the many clever political pamphlets which daily appear in France: for
+the dissemination of these, he had agents, not only in France, but in
+distant countries. When he aimed at the subjugation of any part of the
+continent, his first endeavour was always to disseminate seditious and
+inflammatory pamphlets against its Government. It is never doubted in
+France, that even in _England_, he had his emissaries.
+
+Editors of newspapers, in every part of the globe, were in his pay. The
+method in which the newspaper, called the Argus, was published, is an
+extraordinary proof of this fact. The Argus, whose principal object was
+to abuse the English, was first of all written in French, by one of the
+"Commissaires de Police;" it was then translated into English, and a few
+copies were circulated in this language, to keep up the idea, that it
+was smuggled over from England; after these found their way, the French
+copy, or in other words, the original, was widely circulated. A more
+infamous trick can scarce be conceived. Extracts from this paper were,
+by express order of Napoleon, published in every French paper. Nothing
+was considered by him as beneath his notice. He encouraged dancing,
+feasting, gaming. The theatres, concerts, public gardens, were under his
+protection. The traiteurs, the keepers of caffès, of brothels, of
+ale-houses, the limonadiers, and the wine-merchants, were his particular
+favourites. His object in this was, to produce a degree of profligacy in
+the public manners, and a disgust at industry; and the consequence was,
+the resort of all ranks to the army, as the easiest and most lucrative
+profession.
+
+With regard to the many other causes which will suggest themselves to my
+readers in reading a history of his campaigns, I shall say nothing; for
+on all of these, as well as on the causes of his downfall, which I shall
+merely enumerate, I leave them to make their own observations. I have
+already been very tedious, and have yet much to observe on different
+points of his character.
+
+To the last rigorous measures for the conscription, to the institution
+of the "Droits Reunis;" to the formation of the garde d'honneur; and to
+his attack on the religion of France, Bonaparte owed his first
+unpopularity. The hatred of the French is as impetuous as their
+admiration. They exclaimed against every measure when they were once
+exasperated against him: still he had many friends; still he possessed
+an army which kept the nation in awe. This army he chose to sacrifice in
+Spain and Russia. The nation could no longer supply him, and the strong
+coalition which took place against him, was not to be repelled by a
+broken-down army. His military talent seemed latterly to have forsaken
+him, and never was the expulsion of a tyrant so easily accomplished.
+
+His excessive vanity never left him--of this, the Moniteur for the last
+ten years is a sufficient proof; but in reading the accounts of him, I
+was particularly struck with the instances which follow.
+
+Anxious to impress on the minds of the Directors, the necessity of the
+expedition to Egypt, he made a speech, in which the meanest flattery was
+judiciously mingled with his usual vanity. [30]"Ce n'est que sous un
+gouvernement aussi sage aussi grand que le votre, qu'un simple soldat
+tel que moi pouvait conçevoir le projet de porter la guerre en
+Egypte.--Oui, Directeurs, à peine serais je maitre d'Egypte, et des
+solitudes de la Palestine, que l'Angleterre vous donnera un vaisseau de
+premier bord pour un sac de bled."
+
+Some days before his celebrated appearance among the "Cinq Cents," his
+friends advised him to repair thither well armed, and attended with
+troops. [31]"Si je me presente avec des troupes (disait Napoleon), c'est
+pour complaire à mes amis, car en verité j'ai la plus grande envie d'y
+paraitre comme fit jadis Louis XIV. au Parlement, en bottes, et un fouet
+à la main."
+
+In his speech to the Corps Legislatif, on the 1st of January 1814, he
+made use of the following words at the close of an oration, composed of
+the same unmeaning phrases, strung together in fifty different shapes.
+[32]"Je suis de ces homines qu'on tue, mais qu'on ne dishonore pas.
+Dans trois mois nous aurons la paix, ou l'enemi sera chasse de notre
+territoire--ou, je serai mort."
+
+A further specimen of Napoleon's style, will, I think, amuse my readers;
+I shall, therefore, copy out an extract of his speech to the Legislative
+Body: [33]"Je vous ai appellè autour de moi pour faire le bien, vous
+avez fait le mal, vous avez entre vous des gens devouès à l'Angleterre,
+qui correspondent avec le Prince Regent par l'entremise de l'avocat
+Deseze. Les onze-douziemes parmi vous sont bons; les autres sont des
+factieux. Retournez dans vos departments;--je vous y suivrai de l'oeil.
+Je suis un homme qu'on peut tuer, mais qu'on nè saurait deshonnorer.
+Quel est celui d'entre vous qui pouvait supporter le fardeau du
+pouvoir; il a ecrasè l'Assemble Constituante, qui dicta des loix à un
+monarque faible. Le Fauxbourg St Antoine nous aurait secondé, mais il
+vous est bientot abandonnè. Que sont devenus les Jacobins, les
+Girondins, les Vergniaux, les Guadets, et tant d'autres? Ils sont morts.
+Vous avez cherché à me barbouiller aux gens de la France. C'est un
+attentat;--qu'est que le trone, au reste? Quatre morçeaux de bois dorè
+recouverts de velours. Je vous avais indiqué un Commité Secret; c'etait
+là qu'il fallait laver notre linge. J'ai un titre, vous n'en avez point.
+Qui etes vous dans la Constitution? Vous n'avez point d'autorite. C'est
+le Trone qui est la Constitution. Tout est dans le trone et dans moi.
+Je vous le repete, vous avez parmi vous des factieux. Monsieur Laisnè
+est un mechant homme; les autres sont des factieux. Je les connais, et
+je les poursuivrai. Je vous le demande, Etait ce cependant que les
+ennemies sont chez nous qu'il fallait faire de pareilles choses? La
+nature m'a doué d'un courage fort; il peut resister à tout. Il en a
+beaucoup coutè a mon orgueil, je l'ai sacrifiè. Je suis au dessus de vos
+miserables declamations. J'avais demandé des consolations et vous m'avez
+dishonoré. Mais non; mes victoires ecrasent vos criailleries. Je suis de
+ceux qui triomphent ou qui meurent. Retournez dans vos departments."
+
+The vanity of Napoleon led him to suppose that he was fitted to lay
+down the law to the most eminent among the French philosophers; that he
+could improve the French language, the theatre, the state of society,
+the public seminaries, the weights and measures of the realm. He
+meddled, in short, with every thing. Under the walls of Moscow, he
+composed a proclamation in the morning, declaring that he would soon
+dictate a code of laws to the Russians; and, in the evening, he dictated
+a code of regulations for the theatres of Paris. His ardent wish was, to
+have it thought that he had time and capacity for every thing. It arose
+from this, that he trusted to no one, and having himself every thing to
+do, that he did nothing well. If he went to visit a college, he prepared
+Latin and Greek sentences for the occasion; in many of his speeches he
+introduced scrapes of classic lore. His love of Greek terms is admirably
+described in a little epigram, made on his new _tarif_ of weights and
+measures, in which the _grams_ and _killograms_, and _metres_ and
+_killometres_ are introduced.
+
+    Les Grecs pour nous ont tant d'attraits
+    Qui pour se faire bien entendre,
+    Et pour comprendre le Français
+    Ce'st le Greque qu'il faut apprendre.
+
+He was particularly anxious that his police should be perfect. He
+pursued, for the accomplishment of his views, the same plan so
+successfully employed under the celebrated Sartine. He had spies in
+every private family, and every rank and denomination. These he did not
+employ as Sartine did, for the detection of thieves and robbers; with
+him, the dreadful machine of espionage was organised, in order that he
+might always know the state of public feeling; that knowing also the
+character of each individual, he might be the better able to select
+instruments fit for his purposes. Fouche had brought this system to the
+utmost perfection. Bonaparte distrusted him, and demanded proofs of his
+activity. Fouche desired him to appoint a day, on which he should give
+him a full account of every action performed by him. The day was
+appointed, the utmost precaution was used by the Emperor; but the spies
+gave an account of his every action from six in the morning till eight
+at night. They refused to inform Fouche what had become of Bonaparte
+after eight; but said, that if the Emperor desired it, they would inform
+him in person. The Emperor did not press the subject farther, but
+confessed _that he had not spent the remainder of the evening in the
+best of company_. Ever after this he was satisfied with the state of
+the police. To give some idea of the activity of this system, I may
+mention a curious anecdote, which I received from our banker: One of the
+most respectable bankers in Paris, whose name I have forgot, was sitting
+at supper with his chief _commis_ or clerk. They were served by one
+faithful old servant, who, during 30 years, had been tried, and had
+always been found worthy of confidence. The conversation turned on the
+subject of the last campaign--this was before the campaign of Paris. The
+_commis_ happened to remark, that he thought Bonaparte's career was
+nearly finished, and that he would meet his fate presently. The next
+morning the banker received a letter from the Police Department,
+instructing him to order the departure of his _commis_ from Paris within
+24 hours, and from France within a month.
+
+The same gentleman gave me a genuine edition of the celebrated story of
+Sartine's stopping the travellers at the gates of Paris. It may amuse my
+readers, although, I dare say, they have seen it before in other shapes.
+
+A very rich lace merchant from Brussels, was in the habit of constantly
+frequenting the fair of St Denis. On these occasions, he repaired to
+Paris in the public diligence, accompanied by his trunks of lace. He
+had apartments at an hotel in the Rue des Victoires, which he had for
+many years occupied; and to secure which, he used always to write some
+weeks before. An illness had prevented his visiting the fair during two
+years; on the third, he wrote as usual to his landlord, and received an
+answer, that the death of the landlord had occasioned a change in the
+firm and tenants of the house; but that he was well known to them, and
+that they would keep for him his former rooms, and would do their utmost
+to give him satisfaction.
+
+The merchant set out--arrived at the barrier of Paris; the diligence was
+stopped, and a gentleman whom he had never seen before, accosted him by
+name, and desired him to alight. The merchant was a good deal surprised
+at this; but you may judge of his alarm, when he heard an order given to
+the _conducteur_ to unloose numbers one, two, three--the trunks, in
+which was contained his whole fortune. The gentleman desired he would
+not be afraid, but trust every thing to him. The diligence was ordered
+away, and the lace merchant, in a state of agony, was conveyed by his
+new acquaintance to the house of Monsieur de Sartine. He there began an
+enumeration of his grievances, but was civilly interrupted by M. de
+Sartine--"Sir, you have not much reason to complain; but for your visit
+to me here, you would have been murdered this night at twelve." The
+minister then detailed to him the plan that had been laid for his
+murder, and astonished him by shewing a copy, not only of the letter
+which he had written to the landlord of the hotel, but also the answer
+returned by the landlord. Monsieur de Sartine then begged that he would
+place the most implicit confidence in him, and remain in his house until
+he should recover himself from his fright. He would then return to the
+coach in waiting, and would be attended to the hotel by one of his
+emissaries as valet. The merchant told him that the people of the house
+would not be deceived by a stranger, for they were well acquainted with
+all his concerns, and even with his writing. "Examine your attendant,"
+said M. de Sartine; "you will find him well instructed, and he speaks
+your dialect as you do yourself." A few questions convinced the merchant
+that the minister had made a good selection. M. de Sartine then
+described the reception he would meet with, the rooms he was to occupy,
+the persons he should see, and laid down directions for his conduct;
+telling him, at the same time, that if at a loss, he should consult his
+attendant. On his arrival at the inn, every thing shewed the wonderful
+correctness of the information. His reception was kind as ever. Dinner
+was served up; and the merchant, according to his practice, engaged
+himself till a late hour in his usual occupations. The valet played his
+part to a miracle, and saw his master to bed, after repeating to him the
+instructions of Monsieur de Sartine. The merchant, as may well be
+supposed, did not sleep much. At twelve, a trap door in the floor opened
+gently, and a man ascended into the apartment, having a dark lanthorn in
+one hand, and in the other, some small rings of iron, used for gagging
+people to prevent their speaking. He had just ascended, when the valet
+knocked him down and secured him; the room was immediately filled with
+the officers of the police. The house had been surrounded to prevent
+escape; and in a cellar under the room where the merchant had slept, and
+which communicated with the trap door, were found the master, mistress,
+and all the members of the gang--they were all secured.
+
+Let us proceed with the character of Napoleon. All the world is well
+acquainted with his vices; it is less probable that they have ever heard
+of his virtues, of his having shown that he felt as a man. The
+following instance is authentic:
+
+After the capture of Berlin, the command of the city was given to one of
+the Prussian generals, who had sworn fidelity to Bonaparte. This officer
+betrayed his trust, and communicated to the King of Prussia all the
+information which he obtained of the motions of the French army.
+Bonaparte obtained sufficient proof of his crime, by intercepted
+letters. The officer was arrested, a military trial was ordered, and
+sentence of death pronounced. The wife of the officer threw herself at
+the feet of Bonaparte, and implored the life of her husband. He was
+touched, and drawing out from his pocket the letters which proved the
+crime, he tore them to pieces, saying, that in thus destroying the
+proofs of his guilt, he deprived himself of the power of afterwards
+punishing it. The officer was immediately released.
+
+If Napoleon did not possess feeling, or even common humanity, he was at
+least anxious that the people of France should believe that he had these
+good qualities. It is said that, on the evening before he left Paris on
+his last campaign, he sent for the tragedian Talma, and had taught to
+him the action, features and aspect which he the next day employed when
+he left his wife and child to the care of the national guard. The
+following scene will at once show his desire to be esteemed generous,
+and his utter meanness of character:--[34]"Un de ses Ministres l'aborde
+un jour et lui presente un rapport qu'il avait desiré; il s'agissait
+d'une conspiration contre sa personne. J'etais present à cette scene. Je
+m'attendais, je l'avoue, à le voir entrer en fureur, fulminer contre les
+traitres, menacer les magistrats, et les accuser de negligence. Point du
+tout; il parcourt le papier sans donner le moindre signe d'agitation.
+Jugez de ma surprise, ou plutôt quelle douce emotion j'eprouvais quand
+il fit entendre ces paroles touchantes et sublimes:--"Monsieur le Comte,
+l'etat n'a point souffert; les magistrats n'ont point etè insultés; ce
+n'est donc qu'à ma personne qu'ils en voulaient; je les plains de ne
+point savoir que tous mes voeux tendent au bonheur de la France; mais
+tout homme peut s'egarer. Dites aux ingrats que je leurs pardonne. Mons.
+le Conte aneantissez la procedure." Maintenant je defie le royaliste le
+plus fidele qui seroit temoin d'un proçede si magnanime, de ne point
+dire, si le ciel dans sa colere devait un usurpateur a la France;
+remercions d'avoir du celui ci. Arrete malhereux, tes yeux ont vu, tes
+oreilles ont entendu, ne crois rien de tout; mais deux jours apres
+trouve toi, au lever de ce hero, si magnanime, si peu avide de se
+veuger--on ouvre, le voici, la foule des courtisans l'environne, tout le
+monde fixe les yeux sur lui. Sa figure est decomposée, tous les muscles
+de son visage sont en contraction, tout son ensemble est farouche et
+colere. Un silence funebre regne dans l'assemblée. Le Prince n'a point
+encore parlè, mais il promene des regardes sur la groupe: il appeicoit
+le meme officier, qui deux jours avant lui avait presente le rapport,
+"Monsieur le Conte, (dit il), ces laches conspirateurs sont ils
+executés? Leurs complices sont ils aux fers? Les bourreaux on ils donnè
+un nouvel example a qui voudrait imiter ceux qui veuleut a ma personne?"
+
+A distinguishing feature in Napoleon's character was unnecessary
+cruelty; of this the campaign in Moscow, (of which Labaume's narrative
+is a true though highly-coloured picture), the slaughter of the Turks in
+Egypt, the poisoning of his invalids, and the death of every one who
+stood in his way, are sufficient and notorious proofs. St Cloud was in
+general the scene of his debaucheries. The following anecdote was
+related by Count Rumford to a gentleman of my acquaintance, and may be
+depended on as correct; for at the time that it happened, Count Rumford
+was in lodgings on the spot. Napoleon had brought from Paris a beautiful
+girl belonging to the opera; he had carried her into one of the arbours
+of the garden. Many of the little boys about St Cloud were in habits of
+climbing up among the trees, whether merely as a play, or from curiosity
+to see the Emperor. On leaving the arbour with his favourite, Napoleon
+saw one of these boys perched upon a high tree above him. He flew
+straight to one of the gates, and bringing the sentinel who was
+stationed there, he pointed out the boy, exclaiming, "Tirez sur ce b----
+la." The order was executed, and the boy never more seen.
+
+But for no one act did he incur the hatred of the French in such a
+degree as for the murder of the Duke d'Enghien; in committing this
+crime, not only the laws of humanity, but the laws of nations were
+violated.
+
+This branch of the Royal Family was under a foreign power; he could by
+no means be esteemed a subject of Bonaparte. Even the family of
+Bonaparte, who, (as we shall presently see), did not possess many good
+qualities, were shocked with this crime; they reproached him with it;
+and Lucien said to him, [35]"Vous voulez dont nous faire trainer sur la
+claye."
+
+The treatment of the Pope, of Pichegru, of Georges, of Moreau, furnish
+us with further instances of his cruelty. Bonaparte did his utmost to
+make the Parisians believe that Moreau was connected with Pichegru in
+the conspiracy to establish the Bourbons on the throne. This was totally
+false. But Napoleon, jealous of a rival like Moreau, could not bear that
+he should live. Moreau's bold and unbending character hastened his
+downfall. He always called the flat-bottomed boats, [36]"Ces coquilles
+de noix;" and after an excellent dinner which he gave at Paris to many
+of his fellow Generals, in mockery of the [37]"Epées d'honneur, fusils
+d'honneur," &c, which Bonaparte at this time distributed; Moreau sent
+for his cook, and with much ceremony invested him with a [38]"casserole
+d'honneur."
+
+There are many interesting traits of this noble character, which, if I
+had time, I should wish to give my readers. When he had been condemned
+to imprisonment for two years, by the express orders of Bonaparte, the
+impression made on the mind of the soldiery, of the judges, and of all
+the court, was such, that they seemed insensible to what was going on.
+Nobody was found to remove him from the bar; he descended the stairs of
+the court; walked down the street amid a crowd of admirers; and instead
+of escaping, as he easily might, he called a coach, and ordered the
+coachman to drive to the Temple. When arrived there, he informed the
+Governor of his sentence, and its execution. My readers will, I am sure,
+be pleased with a few extracts from the account of Moreau's death, given
+by his friends, M. Breton de la Martiniere and M. Rapatel:
+
+"Moreau conversait avec l'Empereur Alexandre, dont il n'etait separé que
+le demi longueur d'un cheval. Il est probable qu'on apperçut de la place
+ce brillant etat major, et que l'on tira dessus au hazard. Moreau fut
+seul frappé. Un boulet lui fraccassa le genou droit et à travers le
+flanc du cheval alla emporter le gros de la jambe gauche. Le genereux
+Alexandre versa des larmes. Le Colonel Rapatel se preçipitait sur son
+General. Moreau poussa un long soupir et s'evanouit. Revenu à lui meme,
+il parle avec le plus grand sang froid, et dit à Monsieur Rapatel, "Je
+suis perdu, mon ami, mais il est si glorieux de mourir pour une si belle
+cause, et sous les yeux d'un aussi grand Prince." Péu d'instants apres
+il dit à l'Empereur Alexandre lui meme, "Il ne vous reste que le
+tronc--mais le coeur y est, et la tête est à vous." Il doit souffrir des
+douleurs aigus--il demanda une cigare et se mit tranquillement à fumer.
+
+"Mons. Wylie, premier chirurgien de l'Empereur Alexandre, se hata
+d'amputer la jambe qui etait la plus mal traiteé. Pendant cette cruelle
+operation, Moreau montra à peine quelque alteration dans ses traits et
+ne cessa point de fumer la cigarre. L'amputation faite, Monsieur Wylie
+examina la jambe droite, et la trouva dans un tel etat qu'il ne peut se
+defendre d'un mouvement d'effroi. "Je vous entend," dit Moreau, "Il faut
+encore couper celle ci, eh bien, faites vite. Cependant j'eusse preferé
+la mort." Il voulait ecrire à sa femme. Il ecrivait donc d'une main
+assez ferme ces propres expressions. "Ma chere amie,--La bataille se
+decide il y a trois jours.--J'ai eu les deux jambes emportées d'un
+boulet de canon--ce coquin de Bonaparte est toujours hereux. On m'a
+fait l'amputation aussi bien que possible--l'armée a faite un mouvement
+retrograde, ce n'est pas par revers, mais par decousu et pour se
+rapprocher au General Blucher. Excuse mon griffonage. Je t'aime et
+t'embrasse de tout mon coeur. Je charge Rapatel de finir."
+
+"Tout à l'heure il dit: "Je ne suis pas sans danger, je le sais bien,
+mais si je meurs, si une fin prematurée m'enleve à une femme, à une
+fille aimèe; a mon pays que je voulais servir malgre lui meme; n'oubliez
+pas de dire, aux Français qui vous parleront de moi, que je meurs avec
+le regret de n'avoir pas accompli mes projets. Pour affranchir ma patrie
+du joug affreux qui l'opprime pour ecraser Bonaparte, toutes les armes,
+tous les moyens etaient bons. Avec quelle joie j'aurai consacré le peu
+de talent que je possede à la cause de l'humanite! Mon coeur appartenoit
+a la France."
+
+"Vers sept heurs le malade se trouvant seul avec Monsieur Svinine lui
+dit d'une voix affaiblie--" Je veux absolument vous dicter une
+lettre.--Monsieur Svinine prit la plume en gemissant et traça ce peu de
+lignes sous la dictée de Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--Je descends dans le tombeau avec les memes sentiments de
+respect, d'admiration, et de devouement que votre Majesté m'a
+constamment inspiré, des que j'ai eu le bohheur de m'approcher de votre
+personne."
+
+"En pronoçant ces derniers mots, le malade s'interompit et ferma les
+yeux M. Svinine attendit, croyant que Moreau meditait sur la suite de sa
+depeche--Vain espoir--Moreau n'etait plus."[39]
+
+I am impatient to finish the character of Napoleon, and to get upon some
+other more agreeable subject. I shall end by giving an account of his
+last appearance in France, as related to me by the Sub-Prefect of Aix,
+who accompanied him on his way from Aix to the coast.--After passing
+Montlement, the public feeling began to burst forth against him. The
+spirit of the Provençals could not be restrained. In every village was
+displayed the white cockade, and the fleur de lis. In one, the villagers
+were employed at the moment of his passing in hanging him in effigy; at
+another they compelled him to call out Vive le Roi, and he obeyed them,
+while his attendants refused. For a part of the way he was forced to
+mount a little poney in the dress of an Austrian officer. Arrived at the
+village of La Calade, the following extraordinary scene passed at the
+inn--It was also related to me by our banker, who had it from the
+hostess herself: The landlord was called for, and a mean-looking figure
+in plain clothes, with a travelling-cap, and loose blue pantaloons,
+asked him if he could have dinner for twenty persons who were coming.
+"Yes, (said the landlord), if you take what fare I have; but I trust it
+is not for that _coquin_ the Emperor, whom we expect soon here." "No,
+(said he), it is only for a part of his suite.--Bring here some wine,
+and let the people be well served when they arrive." Presently the
+landlady entered with the wine, a fine, bold Provençal, and a decided
+royalist, as all the Provençal snow are. [40]"Ecoutez, bonne femme, vous
+attendez l'Empereur n'est pas?" 'Oui, Monsieur, j'espere que nous le
+verrons?' "Eh bien, bonne femme, vous autres que dites vous de
+l'Empereur?" 'Qu'il est un grand coquin.' "Eh! ma bonne femme, et vous
+meme que dites vous?" 'Monsieur, voulez vous que je vous dise
+franchment ce que je pense: Si j'etais le capitaine du vaisseau, je ne
+l'embarquerai que pour le noyer."
+
+The stranger said nothing. After an hour or two, the landlord asked his
+wife if she would like to see Bonaparte, for that he was arrived. She
+was all anxiety to see him. He took her up stairs, and pointed to the
+little man in the travelling cap. The surprise of the woman may be
+conceived. The Emperor made her approach, and said to her she was a good
+woman; but that there were many things told of Bonaparte which were not
+true.
+
+I shall continue the Sub-Prefect's narrative in his own words:--[41]"Les
+Commissaires, en arrivant à Calade, le trouvoient la tête appuyée sur
+les deux mains, et le visage baignè de larmes. Il leur dit qu'on en
+voulait decidement à sa vie; que la maitresse de l'auberge, qui ne
+l'avait pas reconnu lui avait declaré que l'Empereur etait detesté comme
+un scelerat, et qu'on ne l'embarquerait que pour le noyer. Il ne
+voulait rien manger ni boire quelque instances qu'on lui fit, et
+quoiqu'il dut etre rassurè par l'example de ceux qui etaient a tablé
+avec lui. Il fit venir de la voiture du pain et de l'eau qu'il prit avec
+avidité. On attendait la nuit pour continuer la route; on n'etait qu'à
+deux lieues d'Aix. La population de cette ville n'eut pas eté aussi
+facile à contenir que celle des villages ou on avait deja couru tant de
+perils. Monsieur, le Sous-Prefét, prenant avec lui le Lieutenant des
+gend'armes et six gend'armes, se mit en route vers la Calade. La nuit
+etait obscure, et le temps froid; cette double circonstance protegea
+Napoleon beaucoup mieux que n'aurait fait la plus forte escorte. Mons.
+le Sous-Prefét et la gend'armerie rencontrerent le cortege peu
+d'instants apres avoir quitté la Calade, et la suivoient jusqu'à ce
+qu'ils arriverent aux portes d'Aix à deux heures du matin. Apres avoir
+changé les chevaux, Bonaparte continuant sa route, passa sous les murs
+de la ville, au milieu des cris repetés de "Vive le Roi," que firent
+entendre les habitants accourus sur les remparts. Il arriva a la limite
+du departement à une auberge appellee la Grande Prgere, ce fut là qu'il
+s'arreta pour dejeuner. Le General Bertrand proposa a Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét de monter, avant que de partir, dans la chambre des
+Commissaires ou tout le monde etait à dejeuner. Il y avoit dix ou douzes
+personnes. Napoleon etait du nombre; il avait son costume d'officier
+Autrichien, et une casque sur la tête. Voyant le Sous-Prefét an habit
+d'auditeur, il lui dit, "Vous ne m'auriez pas reconnu sons ce costume?
+Ce sont ces Messieurs qui me l'ont fait prendre, le jugeant necessaire à
+ma sureté. J'aurais pu avoir une escorte de trois mille homines, qui
+j'ai refusé, preferant de me fier à la loyauté Française. Je n'ai pas eu
+à me plaindre de cette confiance depuis Fontainbleau jusqu'à Avignon;
+mais depuis cette ville jusqu'ici j'ai eté insulté,--j'ai couru bien de
+dangers. Les Provençaux se dishonnerent. Depuis qui je suis en France je
+n'ai pas eu un bon battaillon de Provençeaux sous mes ordres. Ils ne
+sont bons que pour crier. Les Gascons sont fanfarons, mais au moins ils
+sont braves." Sur ces paroles, un des convives, qui etait sans dout
+Gascon, tira son jabot et dit en riant, "Cela fait plaisir."
+
+Bonaparte continuant à s'addresser an Sous-Prefét, lui dit, "Que fait le
+Prefét?" 'Il est parti à la premiere nouvelle du changement survenu à
+Paris.' "Et sa femme?" 'Elle etait partie plutôt.'--"Elle avait donc
+prit le devant. Paie l'on bien les octrois et les droits reunis?"--'Pas
+un sou.'--"Y-a-t-il beaucoup d'Anglais à Marseilles?" Ici Mons. le
+Sous-Prefét raconta à Bonaparte tout ce qui s'etait passè naguere dans
+ce port, et avec quels transports on avait accueilli les Anglais.
+Bonaparte, qui ne prenait pas grand plaisir à ce reçit y mit fin en
+disant au Sous-Prefét, "Dites à vos Provençaux que l'Empereur est bien
+mecontent d'eux."
+
+Arrivè a Bouilledon, il se s'enferma dans ua apartment avec sa soeur
+(Pauline Borghese)--Des sentinels furent places a la porte. Cependant
+des dames arriveés dans un galerie qui communiquait avec cette chambre,
+y trouverent un militaire en uniform d'officier Autrichien, qui leur
+dit, "Que desirez vous voir, Mesdames?" 'Nous voudrions voir Napoleon.'
+"Mais ce'st moi, Mesdames." Ces dames le regardant lui dirent en riant,
+'Vous plaisantez, Monsieur; ce n'est pas vous qui etes Napoleon.' "Je
+vous assure, Mesdames, ce'st moi. Vous vous imaginez donc que Napoleon
+avait l'air plus mechant. N'est pas qu'on dit que je suis un scelerat,
+un brigand?" Les dames n'eurent garde de le dementir, Bonaparte ne
+voulant pas trop les presser sur ce point detourna le conversation. Mais
+toujours occupé de sa premier idée, il y revint brasquement: "Convenez
+en Mesdames, leur dit il, maintenant que la Fortune m'est contraire, on
+dit que je suis un coquin, un scelerat, un brigand. Mais savez vous ce
+que c'est que tout cela? J'ai voula mettre la France au dessus de
+l'Angleterre, et j'ai echoué dans ce projet."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+STATE OF FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON--CONTINUED.
+
+
+AGRICULTURE.
+
+
+To one unacquainted with the present division of society, and the
+condition of each of its branches in France; to one who had only cast
+his eye, in travelling, over the immense tracts of cultivated land, with
+scarcely an acre of waste to diversify the scene, and who had permitted
+first impressions to influence his judgement, it might appear, that in
+agriculture, France far excelled every other country in the world. In
+England, we have immense tracts of common in many of the counties;--in
+Scotland; we have our barren hills, our mosses, and moors;--in America,
+the cultivation bears but a small proportion to the wilds, the swamps,
+and the forests. In our beautiful provinces in the East Indies, the
+cultivation forms but a speck in the wide extent of common, and forest,
+and jungle. Why should France furnish a different spectacle? Why should
+the face of the country there wear a continual smile, while its very
+heart is torn with faction, and its energies fettered by tyranny? There
+are many who maintain that this state of the country is the happy effect
+of the revolution; but it will, I conceive, not be difficult to shew,
+that though certainly a consequence of the great change, it is far from
+being a happy one. We surely would not pronounce it a happy state of
+things, where the interests of all other branches of the community were
+sacrificed to promote the welfare of the peasantry alone.
+
+The peasantry, no doubt, when their rights are preserved to them, as
+they are the most numerous, so they become the most important members of
+a civil society. "Although," as is well observed by Arthur Young, "they
+be disregarded by the superficial, or viewed with contempt by the vain,
+they will be placed, by those who judge of things not by their external
+appearance, but by their intrinsic worth, as the most useful class of
+mankind; their occupations conduce not only to the prosperity, but to
+the very existence of society; their life is one unvaried course of
+hardy exertion and persevering toil. The vigour of their youth is
+exhausted by labour, and what are the hopes and consolations of their
+age? Sickness may deprive them of the opportunity of providing the least
+supply for the declining years of life, and the gloomy confinement of a
+work-house, or the scanty pittance of parochial help, are their only
+resources. By their condition may be estimated the real prosperity of a
+country; the real opulence, strength, and security of the public are
+proportionate to the comfort which they enjoy, and their wretchedness is
+a _sure criterion of a bad administration_."
+
+I have quoted this passage at length, in order that I might shew that
+France supplies us in this case, as in many others, with a wide
+exception from those general rules in politics which time and experience
+had long sanctioned. We shall in vain look at the state of the peasantry
+of that country as affording a criterion of the situation of any other
+branch of the community. It did not remain concealed from the deep and
+penetrating eye of Napoleon, that if the peasantry of a country were
+supported, and their condition improved, any revolution might be
+effected; any measure, however tyrannical, provided it did not touch
+them, might be executed with ease. For the sake of the peasantry, we
+shall perceive that the yeomanry, the farmers, the _bourgeoisie_, the
+nobility, were allowed to dwindle into insignificance. His leading
+principle was never to interfere with their properties, however they may
+have been obtained; and he invariably found, that if permitted to enjoy
+these, they calmly submitted to taxation, furnished recruits for his
+conscription, and supported him in every measure.
+
+In tracing the causes and effects of the various revolutions which take
+place among civilized nations, political writers have paid too little
+attention to the effects of property. France affords us an interesting
+field for investigation on this interesting question; but the narrow
+limits of our work will not admit of our indulging in such speculations.
+We cannot, however, avoid remarking by the way, that the facility of
+effecting a revolution in the government of France, so often shewn of
+late, has arisen, in a great measure, from this state of the property
+of the peasantry. Under the revolution they gained this property, and
+they respected and supported the revolutionists. Under Napoleon, their
+property was respected, and they bore with him, and admired him. Louis
+commenced by encouraging them in the idea that their rights would be
+respected, and they remained quiet:--his Ministers commenced their plans
+of restoring to the noblesse their estates, and the King immediately
+lost the affections of the peasantry. They welcomed Napoleon a second
+time, because they knew his principles: They have again welcomed their
+King, because they are led to suppose that experience has changed the
+views of his Ministers: but they suspect him, and on the first symptom
+of another change they will join in his expulsion.
+
+The nobility, the great landed proprietors, the yeomanry, the lesser
+farmers, all the intermediate ranks who might oppose a check to the
+power of a tyrannical prince, are nearly annihilated. The property of
+these classes, but more particularly of the nobility, has been
+subdivided and distributed among the peasants; become their own, it has,
+no doubt, been much better managed, for it is their immediate interest
+that not an acre of waste ground should remain. They till it with their
+own hands, and, without any intermediate agents, they draw the profits.
+Lands thus managed, must, of course, be found in a very different state
+from those whose actual proprietor is perhaps never on the spot, who
+manages through stewards, bailiffs, and other agents, and whose rank
+prevents the possibility of his assisting, or even superintending, the
+labour of his peasantry.
+
+Having shewn the causes of the present appearance of France, we must
+describe the effects, by presenting to our readers the picture which was
+every where before our eyes in traversing the country. The improvement
+in agriculture, or to speak literally, in the method of tilling the
+soil, is by no means great. The description of the methods pursued, and
+of the routine of crops, given by Arthur Young, corresponds very exactly
+with what we saw. It may be observed, however, that the ploughing is
+rather more neat, and the harrowing more regular. To an English eye both
+of these operations would appear most superficial; but it ought to be
+considered, that here nature does almost every thing, little labour is
+necessary, and in many parts of the country manure is never used: but
+the defect in the quality of the cultivation is somewhat compensated by
+the quantity. Scarce an acre of land which would promise to reward the
+cultivator will be found untilled. The plains are covered with grain,
+and the most barren hills are formed into vineyards. And it will
+generally be found, that the finest grapes are the produce of the most
+dry, stony, and seemingly barren hills. It is in this extension of the
+cultivation that we trace the improvement; but there must also be some
+considerable change for the better, though not in the same degree, in
+the method of cultivation, which is demonstrated by the fact, that a
+considerable rise has taken place in the rent and price of land. In many
+places it has doubled within the last twenty-five years; an _arpent_ now
+selling for 1000 francs, which was formerly sold for 500.
+
+It is, however, extraordinary, that these improvements have, as yet,
+only shewn their influence in the dress of the peasantry, and no where
+in the comfort or neatness of their houses. Between Calais and Paris,
+their houses are better than we found them afterwards on our way to the
+south. In that direction, also, they were almost invariably well
+clothed, having over their other clothes (and not as a substitute for a
+coat) a sort of blue linen frock, which had an appearance of attention
+to dress, not to be seen in other parts of the country, for the
+peasantry in most other parts, though neatly clothed, presented, in the
+variety of their habits and costumes, a very novel spectacle. The large
+tails, which give them so military an appearance, and impress us with
+the idea that they have _marched_, are by no means a proof of this
+circumstance; for we were informed, that the first thing done in most
+instances, was to deprive the conscripts of their superabundant hair.
+But the long tail and the cocked hat, are worn in imitation of the
+higher orders of older time. It is indeed a sight of the most amusing
+kind to the English eye, to behold a French peasant at his work, in
+velvet coat and breeches, powdered hair, and a cocked hat. But we do not
+mean to give this as the usual dress of the peasants, although we have
+frequently met with it. Their dress is very often as plain, neat, and
+sufficient, as their houses are the reverse.
+
+In Picardy, the luxuriant fruit-trees which surround the cottages and
+houses, give an appearance of comfort, which is not borne out by the
+actual state of the houses on a nearer inspection. Near Laon, and
+towards the frontiers of French Flanders, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their dress was very neat, and their
+houses much more substantial, and, in some parts, ornament was added to
+strength. In this district, the people had the advantage of being
+employed in the linen manufacture in their own houses, besides their
+ordinary agricultural occupations; and their condition reminded us of
+the effects of this intermixture of occupations presented by a view of
+Clydesdale in Scotland, or of the West Riding of Yorkshire.
+
+Towards Fontainbleau, and to the east of Paris, on the road of Soissons,
+the peasantry inhabit the old villages, or rather little towns, and no
+cottages are to be seen on the lands. No gardens are attached to the
+houses in these towns. The houses have there an appearance of age, want
+of repair, and a complete stagnation of commerce. And even the peasantry
+there seemed considerably reduced, but they were always well dressed,
+and by no means answered Arthur Young's description. Still their houses
+denoted great want of comfort; very little furniture was to be seen, and
+that either of the very coarsest kind, or of the gaudy and gilded
+description, which shewed whence it came. The intermixture is hideous.
+In the parts of the country above named; the food often consisted of
+bread and pork, and was better than what we found in the south. But
+even here, the small number of pigs, the poor flocks of sheep, and,
+indeed, the absence of any species of pasture for cattle, demonstrated
+that there was not a general or extensive consumption of animal food or
+the produce of the dairy.
+
+The little demand for butcher meat, or the produce of pasture, is
+probably, as Arthur Young has hinted, one great cause of the continuance
+of the fallow system of husbandry in France; for where there is no
+consumption of these articles, it is impossible that a proper rotation
+of crops can be introduced.
+
+In noticing the causes of the decided improvement in the condition of
+the peasantry, we may observe in passing, that the great consumption of
+human life, during the revolution, and more particularly under
+Napoleon's conscription, must have considerably bettered the condition
+of those who remained, and who were able for work, by increasing the
+price of labour.
+
+The industry of the peasants in every part of the country, cannot be
+sufficiently praised--it as remarkable as the apathy and idleness of
+tradesmen and artificers. Every corner of soil is by them turned to
+account, and where they have gardens, they are kept very neat. The
+defects in the cultivation arise, therefore, from the goodness of the
+climate, the ignorance or poverty of the cultivators, or from inveterate
+prejudice.
+
+We must now say a few words with regard to the state of agriculture and
+the condition of the peasantry between Paris and Aix, and more
+especially in the south of France. Here also every acre of land is
+turned to good account, but the method of tilling the land is very
+defective. The improvements in agriculture, in modern times, will be
+found to owe their origin to men of capital, of education, and of
+liberal ideas, and such men are not to be found here. The prejudices and
+the poverty of their ancestors, have not ceased to have their effects in
+the present generation, in retarding the improvement in the tillage, and
+in the farm instruments. They are, in this respect, at least a century
+behind us. From the small subdivisions in many parts of the country,
+each family is enabled to till its own little portion with the spade;
+and where the divisions are larger, and ploughs used, they will
+invariably be found rude, clumsy, enormous masses of wood and iron, weak
+from the unskilfulness of the workmanship, continuing from father to son
+without improvement, because improvement would not only injure their
+purses, but give a deadly wound to that respect and veneration which
+they have for the good old ways of their ancestors. There is endless
+variety in the shape and size of the French plough; but amid the
+innumerable kinds of them, we never had the good fortune to meet one
+good or sufficient instrument.
+
+The use of machinery in the farm-stead is unknown, and grain, as of old,
+is very generally trodden by oxen, sometimes on the sides of the high
+roads, and winnowed by the breath of Heaven.
+
+In the south of France, we met with much more regular enclosure than
+around Paris; but even here, little attention is bestowed in keeping the
+fences in repair. Hedges are, however, less necessary in the south than
+elsewhere; for there is a complete want of live stock of every
+description, and no attention paid to the breeding of it. This want does
+not strike the traveller immediately, because he finds butcher meat
+pretty good in the small towns; excellent in the larger cities, and
+cheap everywhere. But he will find, that France is, in this respect,
+much in the same state with India. Animal food is cheap, because the
+consumption is very limited. In France, but more particularly in the
+south, I should say that not one-sixth of the butcher meat is consumed
+by each man or woman which would be requisite in England. Bread, wine,
+fruit, garlic, onions and oil, with occasionally a small portion of
+animal food, form the diet of the lower orders; and among the higher
+ranks, the method of cooking makes a little meat go a great way. The
+immense joints of beef and mutton, to which we are accustomed in
+England, were long the wonder of the French; but latterly, they have
+begun to introduce (among what they humorously term _plats de
+resistance_) these formidable dishes.
+
+Excepting in the larger towns, butcher meat, particularly beef and
+mutton, is generally ill fed. In the part of the south, where we resided
+during the winter, the beef was procured from Lyons, a distance of above
+200 miles. In the south, the breed of cattle of every description is
+small and stinted, and unless when pampered up for the market, they are
+generally very poor and ill fed. The traveller is everywhere struck with
+the difference between the English and French horses, cows, pigs, sheep,
+&c. and in more than the half of France, he will find, for the reasons
+formerly assigned, an almost total want of attention to these useful
+animals among the farmers. At Aix, where we were situated, there was
+only one cow to be found. Our milk was supplied by goats and sheep; and
+all the butter consumed there, excepting a very small quantity made from
+goat's milk, was also brought from Lyons. This want is not so much felt
+in Provence; because, for their cookery, pastry, &c. they use olive oil,
+which, when fresh, is very pleasant.
+
+The want of barns, sheds, granaries, and all other farm buildings, is
+very conspicuous in the south. The dairy is there universally neglected,
+and milk can only be had early in the morning, and then in very small
+quantity; nay, the traveller may often journey a hundred miles in the
+south of France without being able to procure milk at all; this we
+ourselves experienced. The eye is nowhere delighted with the sight of
+rich and flourishing farm-steads, nor do the abundant harvests of France
+make any shew in regular farm-yards. All the wealth of the peasantry is
+concealed. Each family hides the produce of their little estate within
+their house. An exhibition of their happy condition would expose them to
+immediate spoliation from the tax-officers. In our own happy country,
+the rich farm-yard, the comfortable dwelling-house of the farmer, and
+the neat smiling cottage of the labourer, call down on the possessors
+only the applause and approbation of his landlord, of his neighbours,
+and of strangers. They raise him in the general opinion. In France, they
+would prove his ruin.
+
+To conclude these few observations on the state of agriculture, we may
+remark, that the revolution has certainly tended greatly to promote the
+extension of the cultivation, by throwing the property of the lands into
+the hands of the peasantry, who are the actual cultivators, and also by
+removing the obstructions occasioned by the seignorial rights, the
+titles, game laws, corveès; yet I think there cannot be a doubt, that,
+aided by capital, and by the more liberal ideas of superior farmers
+benefiting by the many new and interesting discoveries in modern
+agriculture, France might, without that terrible convulsion, have shewn
+as smiling an aspect, and the science of agriculture been much further
+advanced.
+
+If, by the revolution, the situation of the peasantry be improved, we
+must not forget, on the other hand, that to effect this improvement, the
+nobility, gentry, yeomanry, and, we might almost add, farmers, have been
+very generally reduced to beggary. The restraint which the existence of
+these orders ever opposed to the power of a bad king, of a tyrant, or of
+an adventurer, might have remained, and all have been happier, better,
+and richer than they are now.
+
+* * *
+
+
+_COMMERCE._
+
+It was probably the first wish of Napoleon's heart, as it was also his
+wisest policy, that the French should become entirely a military, not a
+commercial nation. Under his government, the commerce of France was
+nearly annihilated. It was however necessary, that at times he should
+favour the commercial interest of the towns in the interior, from which
+he drew large supplies of money, and his constant enmity against the
+sea-port towns of Marseilles and Bourdeaux, induced him to encourage the
+interior commerce of France, to the prejudice of the maritime trade of
+these ports. Under Napoleon, Paris, Lyons, Rouen, and most of the large
+towns which carried on this interior commerce, were lately in a
+flourishing state. In these towns, if not beloved, he was at least
+tolerated, and they wished for no change of government. But at
+Marseilles, and at Bourdeaux, he was detested, and a very strong
+royalist party existed, which caused him constant annoyance. At
+Bourdeaux, it may be recollected, that the Bourbons were received with
+open arms, and that that town was the first to open its gates to the
+allies. It was also among the last that held out. I was in that town
+while the royalist party were still powerful, while every thing shewed a
+flourishing commerce, while the people were happy; the wine trade was
+daily enriching the inhabitants, and they blessed the return of peace,
+and of their lawful princes. In two days the face of things was changed.
+A party of soldiers, 300 strong, were dispatched by Napoleon, under the
+command of General Clausel. The troops of the line here, as everywhere
+else, betrayed their trust, and joined the rebels, and Bourdeaux was
+delivered up to the spoiler.
+
+Never was there a more melancholy spectacle than that now afforded by
+the inhabitants of this city. You could not enter a shop where you did
+not find the owners in tears. We were then all hastening to leave
+France. They embraced us, and prayed that our army might soon be among
+them to restore peace and the Bourbons. Here I am convinced that
+Bonaparte is hated by all but the military. Yet what could a town like
+Bourdeaux effect, when its own garrison betrayed it?
+
+Besides the bad effects of Bonaparte's policy on the commerce of France,
+I must notice the wide influence of another cause, which was the natural
+result of the revolution. Although at first an attack was only made
+against the noblesse, yet latterly, every rich and powerful family was
+included among the proscribed, and all the commercial houses of the
+first respectability were annihilated. These have never been replaced,
+and the upstart race of petty traders have not yet obtained the
+confidence of foreigners. The trade of France is therefore very
+confined; and even were opportunities now afforded of establishing a
+trade with foreign nations, it would be long before France could benefit
+by it, from the total want of established and creditable houses.
+
+The manifest signs of the decay of commerce in France cannot escape the
+observation of the traveller, more especially if he has been in the
+habit of travelling in England. The public diligences are few in number,
+and most miserably managed. It is difficult to say whether the
+carriage, the horses, or the harness, gives most the idea of meanness.
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of large towns, you meet with not a cart,
+or waggon, for twenty that the same distance would show in England. The
+roads are indeed excellent in most parts; but this is not in France, as
+in most countries, a proof of a flourishing commerce. It is for the
+conveyance of military stores, and to facilitate the march of the
+troops, that the police are required to keep the roads in good repair.
+The villages and towns throughout France, are in a state of dilapidation
+from want of repair. No new houses, shops, and warehouses building, as
+we behold every where in England. None of that hurry and bustle in the
+streets, and on the quays of the sea-port towns, which our blessed
+country can always boast. The dress of the people, their food, their
+style of living, their amusements, their houses, all bespeak extreme
+poverty and want of commerce.
+
+I was at some pains in ascertaining whether, in many of their
+manufactures, they were likely to rival us or injure our own.--I cannot
+say I have found one of consequence. There are indeed one or two
+articles partially in demand among us, in which the French have the
+superiority; silks, lace, gloves, black broad cloth, and cambric are
+the chief among them. The woollen cloths in France are extremely
+beautiful, and the finer sorts, I think, of a superior texture to any
+thing we have in England; but the price is always double, and sometimes
+treble of what they sell for at home, so that we have not much to fear
+from their importations. Few of the French can afford to wear these fine
+cloths.
+
+French watches are manufactured at about one half of the English price;
+but the workmanship is very inferior to ours, and unless as trinkets for
+ladies' wear, they do not seem much in estimation in England. The
+cutlery in France is wretched. Not only the steel, but the temper and
+polish, are far inferior to ours. A pair of English razors is, to this
+day, a princely present in France. Hardware is flimsy, ill finished, and
+of bad materials. All leather work, such as saddlery, harness, shoes,
+&c. is wretchedly bad, but undersells our manufactures of the same kind
+by about one half. Cabinet work and furniture is handsome, shewy,
+insufficient, and dear. Jewellery equal, if not superior to ours in
+neatness, but not so sufficient. Hats and hosiery very indifferent. In
+glass ware we greatly excel the French, except in the manufacture of
+mirrors. Musical instruments of all descriptions are made as well, and
+at half the English price, in France. In every thing else, not here
+mentioned, as far as my memory serves me, I think I may report the
+manufactures of France greatly inferior to those in England. I have
+sometimes heard it stated, that in the manufacture of calicoes, muslins,
+and other cotton goods, the French are likely to rival us. On this
+subject I was not able to obtain the information I wished for, but one
+fact I can safely mention, the price of all these goods is at present,
+in most parts of France, nearly double what it is in England or
+Scotland, and their machinery is not to be compared with our own.
+
+* * *
+
+_WEALTH OF THE NATION AND ITS DIVISION._
+
+To the traveller in France, every thing seems to denote extreme poverty,
+and that extending its influence over all ranks of society; and
+certainly, compared with England, France is wretchedly poor. But many of
+its resources remain hidden, and it is certain, that on the demands of
+its despotic ruler, France produced unlooked-for supplies. His wars have
+now greatly exhausted this hidden treasure, and there is, fortunately
+for the peace of the world, very little money left in the country. The
+marks of the wealth of the country, both absolutely, and in relation to
+other countries, are to be found in the manner of living, and extent of
+fortunes of its inhabitants; in the size, comfort, and style of their
+houses; in their dress and amusements; in the price of labour; the
+salaries of office; the trade and commerce of the country; the number of
+country houses, of banks, &c. In examining each of these heads, we shall
+find that France is a very poor country.
+
+The sum of two thousand pounds a-year is reckoned a noble fortune in
+France, and very, very few, there are that possess that sum.
+
+One thousand pounds a-year constitutes a handsome fortune for a
+gentleman; and four hundred for a _bourgeois_, or for one employed in
+trade or commerce. Few of the nobility are now possessed of fortunes
+sufficient to maintain a carriage; and none under the rank of princes,
+in France, have _now_ more than one carriage.
+
+The style of living is wretched: only the first, and richest houses, can
+afford to entertain company, and those but seldom. It requires a large
+fortune to maintain a regular cook; in half the houses they have only a
+dirty scullion, who, among her other work, cooks the dinner. In the
+other half, a traiteur sends in the dinner; or if a bachelor, the master
+of the house dines at a _table d'hôte_, as a _pensionaire_.
+
+The interior management of the French houses denotes extreme poverty.
+Some few articles of splendid furniture are displayed for shew in one or
+two rooms, while the rest of the house is shut up, and left dirty and
+ill furnished.
+
+Of their dress and amusements I have already said enough, to shew that
+they denote poverty, and I shall say more when I come to the French
+character.
+
+The price of labour is far lower than what we are used to, fluctuating
+from fifteen to twenty pence a-day. The salaries of office are,
+throughout France, not above one-third what they are in England. Of the
+want of trade and commerce I have already spoken. The public banks are
+very few in number, and only to be found in very large and commercial
+towns. Country houses and fine estates, there are none, or where they
+are found, it is in a state of dilapidation.
+
+Where, then, is the wealth of France? I was at some pains to solve this
+question. The remaining wealth of France is divided among the generals
+of Napoleon; the army furnishers and contractors; the prefects,
+sub-prefects; the numerous receivers and collectors of taxes; and,
+lastly, but chiefly, the peasantry. It may appear strange to those who
+are not acquainted with the present state of France, that I have
+mentioned the peasants among the richest; but I am convinced of the
+fact. The peasants in France have divided among themselves the lands and
+property of the emigrants. Napoleon drew supplies from them; but very
+politically maintained them in their possessions. Their condition, and
+the condition of the lands, shew them to be in easy circumstances. They
+are well clothed, and abundantly, though poorly fed.
+
+France is, in fine, a very poor country, compared with our own; but it
+is not without resources, and its wealth will remain concealed as long
+as it is under Napoleon; for whoever shewed wealth, was by him marked
+out as an object of plunder. By allowing unlimited power to his
+emissaries and spies, he was able to discover where the wealth lay, and
+by vesting the same power in his prefects, sub-prefects, receivers, and
+gend'armes, he seized on it when discovered. In the public prints,
+previous to his downfall, we may observe almost continually the thanks
+of Government to the farmers, proprietors, and others, for _their
+patriotic exertions in supplying horses, grain, &c._ In these cases, the
+_patriotic farmers_ had bands of gend'armerie stationed over them, who
+drove away their horses, their cattle and grain, without the hope even
+of payment or redress of any kind. Nothing denotes more the poverty of
+the country, than the want of horses, of cows, and all kinds of live
+stock.
+
+In no country in the world is there found so great a number of beggars
+as in France; and yet there are not wanting in every town establishments
+for the maintenance of the poor. These beggars are chiefly from among
+the manufacturing classes; the families of soldiers and labourers. The
+peasants are seldom reduced to this state, or when reduced, they are
+succoured by their fellow peasants, and do not beg publicly. The
+national poverty has had the worst effects on the French character; in
+almost every station in life they will be found capable of meanness.
+What can be more disgusting, than to see people of fashion and family
+reduced to the necessity of letting to strangers their own rooms, and
+retiring into garrets and other dirty holes--demanding exorbitant
+prices, and with perfect indifference taking half or a third--higgling
+for every article they purchase--standing in dirty wrappers at their
+doers, seeing the wood weighed in the street, on terms of familiarity
+with tradesmen and their own servants. All this you see in France daily;
+but on this subject I have elsewhere made observations.
+
+As connected with this part of the subject, a few words must be said on
+the condition of the towns and villages; for although I had at first
+intended to treat this, and the situation of the different ranks, as
+separate subjects; yet they seem to come in more naturally at present,
+when speaking of the wealth of France and its division. The towns
+throughout France, as well as the villages, particularly in the south,
+have an appearance of decay and dilapidation. The proprietors have not
+the means of repair. It is customary (I suppose from the heat of the
+climate), to build the houses very large; to repair a French house,
+therefore, is very expensive: and it will generally be seen, that in
+most, houses only one or two rooms are kept in repair, and furnished,
+while the rest of the house is crumbling to pieces. This is the case
+with all the great houses; in those of the common people we should
+expect more comfort, as they are small, and do not need either expensive
+repair or gay furniture; but comfort is unknown in France. On entering a
+small house in one of the villages, we find the people huddled together
+as they are said to do in some parts of England and Scotland. Men,
+women, dogs, cats, pigs, goats, &c.--no glass in the windows--doors
+shattered--truckle-beds--a few earthen pots; and with all this filth, we
+find, perhaps, half a dozen velvet or brocade covered chairs; a broken
+mirror, or a marble slab-table; these are the articles plundered in
+former days of terror and revolution. All caffés and hotels in the
+villages are thus furnished.
+
+The streets in almost every town in France are without pavement. Would
+any one believe, that in the great city, as the French call it, there is
+a total want of this convenience? On this subject, Mercier, in his
+Tableaux de Paris, has this remark: [42]"Dès qu'on est sur le pavè de
+Paris, ou voit que le peuple n'y fait pas les loix;--aucune commoditè
+pour les gens de pied--point de trottoirs--le peuple semble un corps
+separè des autres ordres de l'etat--les riches et les grands qui ont
+equipage ont le droit de l'ecraser ou de le mutiler dans les rues--cent
+victimes expirent par annee sous les rues des voiture."
+
+Besides the want of pavement to protect us from the carriages, and to
+keep our feet dry, we have to encounter the mass of filth and dirt,
+which the nastiness of the inhabitants deposits, and which the police
+suffers to remain. The state of Edinburgh in its worst days, as
+described by our English neighbours, was never worse than what you meet
+with in France. The danger of walking the streets at night is very
+great, and the perfumes of Arabia do not prevail in the morning.
+
+The churches in all the villages are falling to ruin, and in many
+instances are converted into granaries, barracks, and hospitals;
+manufacturing establishments are also in ruins, scarcely able to
+maintain their workmen; their owners have no money for the repair of
+their buildings. The following description of the changes that have
+taken place in the French villages, is better than any thing I can give;
+and from what I have seen, it is perfectly correct:
+
+[43]"Avant la revolution, le village se composait de quatre mille
+habitans. Il fournissait pour sa part, au service general de l'Eglise et
+des hopitaux, ainsi qu'aux besoins de l'instruction cinq eclesiastiques,
+deux soeurs de la charité, et trois maitres d'ecol. Ces derniers sont
+remplacé par un maitre d'equitation, un maitre de dessin et deux maitres
+de musique. Sur huit fabriques d'etoffes de laisne et de coton, il ne
+reste plus qu'une seule. En revanche il s'est etabli deux caffés, un
+tabaque, un restaurat, et un billiard qui prosperent d'une maniere
+surprenante. On comptait autrefois quarante charretiers de labour;
+vingt-cinq d'entre eux sont devenus couriers, piqueurs, et cochès. Ce
+vuide est remplie par autant de femmes, qui dirigent la charette et qui
+pour se delasser de tems en tems menent au marché des voitures de paille
+ou de charbon. Le nombre de charpentiers, de maçons, et d'autres
+artisans est diminué à peu pres de moitie. Mais le prix de tout les
+genres de main d'oeuvre ayant aussi augmenté de moitie--cela revient au
+meme--et la compensation se retablit. Une espece d'individus que le
+village fournit en grande abondance, et dans des proportions trop
+fortes ce sont les domestiques de luxe et de livrée. Pour peu que cela
+dure on achevera de depeupler le campagne de gens utiles qui le
+cultivent pour peupler les villes d'individus oisifs et corrompus.
+Beaucoup de femmes et de jeunes filles, qui n'etaient que des
+couturiers, et des servantes de femmes, ont aussi trouvè de l'avancement
+dans la capitale, et dans les grandes villes. Elles sont devenues femmes
+de chambre--brodeuses--et marchandes des modes. On dirait que le luxe a
+entreprit de pomper la jeunesse; toutes les idèes et tous les regards
+sont tournès vers lui à aucun epoque anterieure le contingent du village
+en hommes de loi--huissiers--etudiants en droits, mediçins, poetes et
+artistes, ne s'etait eleve au dela de trois ou quatre; il s'eleve
+maintenant à soixante deux, et une chose qu'on n'aurait jamais su
+imaginer autrefois c'est qu'il y a dans le nombre autant de peintres, de
+poetes, de comediens, de danseuses de theatre et de musiciens ambulans,
+qu'une ville de quatre vingt mille hommes aurait pu en fournir il y a
+trente ou quarante ans."
+
+Another mark of the poverty of France at present occurs to me: In every
+town, but particularly in the large cities, we are struck with numbers
+of idle young men and women who are seen in the streets. Now that the
+army no longer carries away the "surplus population of France," (to use
+the language of Bonaparte), the number of these idlers is greatly
+increased. The great manufacturing concerns have long ceased to employ
+them. France is too poor to continue the public works which Napoleon had
+every where begun. The French have no money for the improvement of their
+estates, the repair of their houses, or the encouragement of the
+numerous trades and professions which thrive by the costly taste and
+ever-varying fashion of a luxurious and rich community. Being on the
+subject of taste and fashion, I must not forget that I noticed the dress
+and amusements of the French as offering a mark of their poverty. The
+great meanness of their dress must particularly strike every English
+traveller; for I believe there is no country in the world where all
+ranks of people are so well dressed as in England. It is not indeed
+astonishing to see the nobility, the gentry, and those of the liberal
+professions well clothed, but to see every tradesman, and every
+tradesman's apprentice, wearing the same clothes as the higher orders;
+to see every servant as well, if not better clothed than his master,
+affords a clear proof of the riches of a country. In the higher ranks
+among the French, a gentleman has indeed a good suit of clothes, but
+these are kept for wearing in the evening on the promenade, or at a
+party. In the morning, clothes of the coarsest texture, and often much
+worn, or even ragged, are put on. If you pay a lady or gentleman a
+morning visit, you find them so metamorphosed as scarcely to be known;
+the men in dirty coarse cloth great coats, wide sackcloth trowsers and
+slippers; the women in coarse calico wrappers, with a coloured
+handkerchief tied round their hair. All the little gaudy finery they
+possess is kept for the evening, but even then there is nothing either
+costly or elegant, or neat, as with us. In their amusements also is the
+poverty of the people manifested. A person residing in Paris, and who
+had travelled no further, would think that this observation was unjust,
+for in Paris there is no want of amusements; the theatres are numerous,
+and all other species of entertainment are to be found. But in the
+smaller towns, one little dirty theatre, ill lighted, with ragged
+scenery, dresses, and a beggarly company of players, is all that is to
+be found. The price of admittance is also very low. The poverty of the
+people will not admit of the innumerable descriptions of amusements
+which we find in every little town in England: amateur concerts are
+sometimes got up, but for want of funds they seldom last long. My
+subscription to one of these at the town where we resided, was five
+francs per month, or about a shilling each concert. This may be taken as
+a specimen of the price of French amusements.
+
+
+_STATE OF RELIGION_.
+
+THE order of the priesthood in France had suffered greatly in the
+revolution. They were everywhere scouted and reviled, either for being
+supporters of the throne, or for being rich, or for being _moderès_.
+Napoleon found them in this condition; he never more than tolerated
+them, and latterly, by his open attack and cruel treatment of their
+chief, he struck the last and severest blow against the church. Unable
+to bear the insults of the military, deprived of the means of support,
+many of the clergy either emigrated or concealed themselves. In the
+principal towns, indeed, the great establishments took the oath of
+allegiance to the tyrant; but the inferior clergy and the country
+curates met nowhere with encouragement, and were allowed to starve, or
+to pick up a scanty pittance by teaching schools in a community who
+laughed at education, at morality, and religion.
+
+Many of the churches, convents, and monasteries were demolished; many
+were converted into barracks, storehouses, and hospitals. We saw but
+_one_ village church in our travels through France, and even in the
+larger towns we found the places of public worship in a state of
+dilapidation. I went to see the palace of the Archbishop at Aix; out of
+a suite of most magnificent rooms, about 30 in number, _one miserable
+little chamber was furnished for his highness_. In the rest, the
+grandeur of former days was marked by the most beautiful tapestry on
+some part of the walls, while other parts had been laid bare and daubed
+over with caps of liberty, and groupes of soldiers and guillotines, and
+indecent inscriptions. The nitches for statues, and the frames of
+pictures, were seen empty. The objects which formerly filled them were
+dashed to pieces or burnt.
+
+The conduct of the people at the churches marked the low state of
+religion: the higher ranks talked in whispers, and even at times loudly,
+on their family concerns, their balls and concerts. The peasantry and
+lower ranks behaved with more decency, but seemed to think the service a
+mere form; they came in at all hours, and staid but a few minutes; went
+out and returned.
+
+We had in our small society some very respectable clergymen; but I am
+sorry to say, we had one instance shewing the immoral tendency of the
+celibacy of the clergy.
+
+Very few of the convents remain. I have detailed our visit to one of
+them in my journal; we found every thing decent and well conducted, but
+not with any thing like the strictness and rigour we expected. At Aix
+there was a small establishment of Ursulines, a very strict order; there
+was also a penitentiary establishment of Magdalenes, the rules of which
+were said by the people of Aix to be of the most inhuman nature. The
+caterers for the establishment were ordered to buy only spoilt
+provisions for food; fasting was prescribed for weeks together; and the
+miserable young women lay on boards a foot in breadth, with scarce any
+clothing. Their whole dress, when they went out, consisted of a shift
+and gown of coarsest hard blanket stuff. They were employed in educating
+young children. I once met a party of them walking out with their
+charges, who were chanting hymns and decorating these miserable walking
+skeletons with flowers.
+
+We had also at Aix a very celebrated preacher named De Coq. I went to
+hear him, and, though much struck with his fluency of language, did not
+much admire his style of preaching; there was too much of cant and
+declamation, and at times he made a most intolerable noise, roaring as
+if he were addressing an army. This man, however, succeeded in drawing
+tears from the audience; but this did not surprise me, for it is
+astonishing how easily this is accomplished. This reminds me of a scene
+which I witnessed one evening at the theatre at Aix. We were seated next
+an old Marquise with whom we were acquainted. The tragedy of Meropè, and
+particularly the part of the son Egistus, was butchered in a very
+superior style; the Marquise turned to my sister, and said to her, "Oh
+how touching! how does it happen that it does not make you cry? But you
+shall see me cry in a minute; I shall just think of my poor son whom
+Napoleon took for the conscription." She then by degrees worked herself
+up into a fit of tears, and really cried for a pretty tolerable space of
+time. A most amusing soliloquy took place at our house the night before
+the national guard left Aix, in pursuit of Bonaparte. This lady came to
+pay us a visit; and after crying very prettily, she exclaimed, "Oh, the
+_barbare_, he has taken away my son--he has ruined my concert which I
+had fixed for Thursday--we were to have had such music!--and Jule, my
+son, was to have sung; but Jule is gone, perhaps to----_Oh, mon Dieu!
+mon Dieu!_--and I had laid out three hundred pounds in repairing my
+houses at Marseilles, and not one of them will now be let--and I had
+engaged Ciprè (a fiddler), for Thursday; and we should have been so
+happy."--But this is a most extraordinary episode to introduce when
+talking of the state of religion.
+
+Some measures taken latterly by the King, seem to have been but ill
+received by the French, and they then shewed how little attention they
+were inclined to pay to religious restraints, which were at variance
+with their interests and their pleasures: I allude to the shutting of
+the theatres and the shops on Sunday. Perhaps, considering the nature of
+their religion, and the long habit which had sanctioned the devoting of
+this day to amusement, the measure was too hasty. Certain it is, that
+neither this measure, nor the celebration of the death of Louis XVI. did
+any good to the Bourbon cause. The last could not fail to awaken many
+disagreeable feelings of remorse and of shame: It was a kind of
+punishment to all who had in any way joined in that horrid event. At
+Aix, the solemn ceremony was repeatedly interrupted by the noise of the
+military. We remarked one man in particular, who continued laughing,
+and beating his musket on the ground. On leaving the church, our
+landlord told us, he was one of those who had led one of the Marseilles
+bands at that time; and that there were in that small community, who had
+assembled in church, more than five or six others of the same
+description. How many of these men must there have been in all France
+whose feelings, long laid asleep, were awakened by such a ceremony!
+
+
+_ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE_.
+
+NAPOLEON'S greatest ambition was to inter-meddle with everything in the
+kingdom. With most of the changes which his restless spirit has
+produced, the French have no great reason to be satisfied; but all
+agree, that with regard to the administration of justice, and the
+courts, for the trial of civil suits in France, the alterations which he
+has introduced, have been ultimately of essential benefit to the
+country. Previous to his accession to the government, the sources of
+equity were universally contaminated, and the influence of corruption
+most deeply felt in every part of the constitution of their courts. On
+the accession of Napoleon to the throne, the most respectable and able
+men among the judges and magistrates were continued in their
+appointments, and the vacancies, occasioned by the dismission of those
+found guilty of corruption, (many of whom had, during the confusions of
+the revolution, actually seized their situations), were supplied, in
+frequent instances, by those of the older nobility, whose characters and
+principles were known and respected. In addition to this, the civil and
+the criminal codes were both carefully revised. In this revisal, the
+greatest legal talents in the nation were employed. The laws of
+different nations, more particularly of England, were brought to
+contribute in the formation of a new code; and by a compilation from the
+Roman, the French and the English law, a new institute, or body of civil
+and criminal justice, was formed, intended for the regulation of the
+whole kingdom. Previous to this change, it must be observed, that the
+laws, in the different provinces of the kingdom, were in some measure
+formed _upon_, and always interwoven _with_, the particular observances
+and customs of their respective provinces; the inevitable consequence
+was, that every province, possessing different usages, had also a
+different code. [44]"La bizarrerie des loix," says Mercier, "et la
+varieté des coutumes font que l'avocat le plus savant devient un ignore
+des qu'il se trouve en Gasgogne, ou en Normandie. Il perd a Vernon, un
+procés qu'il avoit gagné a Poissy. Prenez le plus habile pour la
+consultation, et la plaidoyerie, eh bien, il sera obligé d'avoir son
+avocat et son procureur, si on lui intente un proces dans le resort de
+la plupart des autres parlemens." The consequence of this was an
+uncertainty, intricacy, and want of any thing like regulating principles
+in the laws, and an incoherency and inconsistency in the administration
+of both civil and criminal justice.
+
+The improvements introduced by the late Emperor, have therefore,
+considered under this point of view, been of no common benefit to the
+kingdom, as they have given, to some measure, certainty, principle and
+consistency, the essential attributes of good laws, to what was
+formerly a mass of confusion.
+
+At Aix, where we resided, the head court is held for four provinces, and
+there is a college for the study of law and divinity. Most of the
+acquaintances I there formed were gentlemen belonging to the law; many
+of them had been liberally educated, were men of talents, and some of
+them possessed acquirements which would have done honour to any bar. The
+opinion of all these was strongly in favour of the new codes; and they
+go so far as to say, that when the matter comes under consideration,
+there are very few things which the present government will change, and
+very few judges who will lose their situations.
+
+They allowed, however, that latterly, Napoleon had forgotten his usual
+moderation, and, incensed against the importation of foreign
+merchandise, had instituted a court, and formed a new and most rigorous
+code for the trial of all cases of smuggling and contraband trade. But
+fortunately for the people, this court had scarcely commenced its severe
+inflictions, when the deposition of Napoleon, and the subsequent peace
+with England, rendered its continuance unnecessary. The punishments
+awarded by this court, were, in their rigour, infinitely more terrible
+than that of any other in Europe. There was pot the slightest
+proportionment of the punishment to the offence. For the sale of the
+smallest proportion of contraband goods, the unfortunate culprit was
+condemned immediately to eight or ten years labour amongst the
+galley-slaves. For the weightier offences, the importation of larger
+quantities of forbidden goods, perpetual labour, and even death, were
+not unfrequently pronounced.
+
+I was informed, that when Napoleon commanded the Senate to pass the
+decree for the institution of this court, one of the members asked him,
+if he believed he would find Frenchmen capable of executing his orders,
+and enforcing such laws? His answer was, "my salaries will soon find
+judges;" and the consequence of this determination, upon his part, was,
+that while he paid the judges of the other tribunals at Aix by a
+miserable annuity of one hundred and fifty pounds, and two hundred
+pounds, the judges of the court of contraband were ordered to receive
+seven hundred pounds and eight hundred pounds. Napoleon was perfectly
+right in his opinion; that such was the want of honour and principle,
+and such the excessive poverty of France, that these salaries would soon
+find judges. I have heard from unquestionable authority, that, for the
+last vacancy which was filled up in that court, there were ten
+candidates.
+
+The court-room, in which this law tribunal was held, is now occupied by
+a society of musical amateurs, and a concert was given there, during our
+stay at Aix, once every week. One of the lawyers, in talking of this
+court, informed me, that in that very room, where the judges of the
+court of contraband sat, he had played in comedy and tragedy, pleaded
+causes, had taken his part in concerts, and danced at balls, under its
+several revolutions, its different political phases of a theatre, a
+court of justice, a concert and a ball-room. Exactly similar to this was
+the fate of the churches, palaces, and the houses of individuals under
+Napoleon, which were alternately barracks, hospitals, stables, courts of
+justice, _caffés, restaurats_, &c.
+
+The penal code of the late Emperor breathes throughout a spirit of
+humanity, which must astonish every one acquainted with his character.
+The punishment of death, which, according to Blackstone, may be
+inflicted by the English law in one hundred and sixty different
+offences, is now in France confined to the very highest crimes only; the
+number of which does not exceed twelve. A minute attention has been
+paid to the different degrees of guilt in the commission of the same
+crime; and according to these, the punishments are as accurately
+proportioned as the cases will permit. One species of capital punishment
+has been ordained instead of that multitude of cruel and barbarous
+deaths which were marshalled in terrible array along the columns of the
+former code. This punishment is decapitation. The only exception to this
+is in the case of parricide, in which, previous to decapitation, the
+right hand is cut off; and in the punishment for high-treason, in which
+the prisoner is made to walk barefoot, and with a crape veil over his
+head to the scaffold, where he is beheaded. Torture was abolished by
+Louis XVI., and has never afterwards been resumed.
+
+After Napoleon had it in view to form a new code for France, he was at
+great pains to collect together the most upright and honourable, as well
+as the most able amongst the French lawyers; the principal members of
+whom were Tronchet, one of the counsel who spoke boldly and openly in
+defence of the unfortunate Louis XVI., Portalis, Malville, and Bigot de
+Preameneau. Under such superintendance, the work was finished in a short
+time.
+
+The trial by jury has been for some time established in France; but the
+Emperor, dreading that so admirable an institution, if managed with an
+impartial hand might, in too serious a manner, impose restraint upon his
+individual despotism, took particular care to subject those crimes,
+which he dreaded might arise out of the feelings of the public, to the
+cognisance of special tribunals. All trials originating out of the
+conscription, are placed under the care of a special court, composed of
+a certain number of the criminal judges and military officers. In
+France, there is no grand jury; but its place is supplied by that which
+they have denominated the _Juré d'Accusation_. This is a court composed
+of a few members amongst the civil judges, assisted by the
+Procureur-General or Attorney-General. Their juries for the trial of
+criminals are selected from much higher classes in society than with us
+in England; a circumstance the effect of absolute necessity, owing to
+the extreme ignorance of the middling ranks and the lower classes. In
+the conducting of criminal trials, the manner of procedure is in a great
+measure different from our English form. A criminal, when first
+apprehended, is carried, before the magistrate of the town, generally
+the Mayor. He there undergoes repeated examinations; all the witnesses,
+are summoned and examined, in a manner similar to the precognitions
+taken before the Sheriff of Scotland, and the whole process is nearly as
+tedious as upon the trial. All the papers and declarations are then sent
+with the accused, to the _Juré d'Accusation_, who also thoroughly
+examine the prisoner and the witnesses; if grounds are found for the
+trial, the papers are immediately laid before the "_Cour d'Assize_."
+Before this court, the prisoner is again specially examined by its
+president. His former declarations are compared and confronted with his
+present answers, and the strongest evidence against him, is often in
+this manner extracted from his own story. It might certainly be
+imagined, that with all these precautions, it would be scarcely possible
+that the guilty should escape. The very contrary is the case, and I have
+been informed by some of the ablest lawyers in the courts here, that out
+of ten prisoners, really guilty, six haves good chance of getting clear
+off. They ascribe this to two principal causes, 1st, That the
+proceedings become so extremely tedious and intricate, that it is
+impossible for the jury to keep them all in their recollection, and
+that, forgetting the general tenor of the evidence, they suffer the
+last impressions, those made by the counsel for the prisoner, to bias
+their judgment, and to regulate their verdict. In the 2d place, It is
+customary for the president of the court to enter into a long
+examination and cross-examination of the prisoner, (assisted and
+prompted in his questions by the rest of the judges), in a severe and
+peremptory style, and what is too often the case with the judge, in his
+anxiety to condemn, to identify himself with the public prosecutor. He
+appears, in the eye of the jury, more in the light of an interested
+individual, anxious to drag the offender in the most summary manner to
+the punishment of the law, than as an upright and unbiassed judge, whose
+duty it is coolly to consider the whole case, to weigh the evidence of
+the respective witnesses, to consider, with benevolent attention, the
+defence of the prisoner, and, after all this, to pronounce, with
+authoritative impartiality, the sentence of the law. This naturally
+prejudices the jury in favour of the prisoner; and few, even in our own
+country, who may have been witness to the common routine of our criminal
+procedure, will not themselves have felt that immediate and irresistible
+impression, which is made upon the mind of the spectator, when he sees
+on one side the solemn array of the court, the judges, the officers, and
+all the terrible show of justice; and on the other, the trembling,
+solitary, unbefriended criminal, who awaits in silence the sentence of
+the law. One difference, however, between the effects produced by the
+respective criminal codes of France and England, ought to be here
+remarked. In England, owing to the principles and practice of our
+criminal law, it too frequently happens, that the most open and
+notorious criminals escape, whilst the less able, but more innocent
+offenders, those who might be easily reclaimed, who have gone little way
+in the road of crime, but who are less able to do themselves justice at
+their trial, fall an easy sacrifice to the rigour of our criminal code.
+In France, owing to the custom of the cross-examinations of the
+prisoner, by the president and the different judges, this can never
+happen. The notoriety of his character prevents the common feelings of
+compassion in the breasts of the jury; the severity of the
+interrogations renders it impossible that any fictitious story, when
+confronted with his former examinations before the magistrate and the
+_Juré d'Accusation_, can long hold together, and he is, in this manner,
+generally convicted by the evidence extracted from his own mouth upon
+the trial.
+
+The present style of French pleading is exactly what we might be led to
+expect from the peculiar state of manners, and the particular character
+of that singular people. It is infinitely further removed from dry legal
+ratiocination, and much more allied to real eloquence, than any thing we
+met with in England. Any one who is acquainted with the natural inborn
+fluency in conversation of every individual whom he meets in France, may
+be able to form some idea of the astonishing command of words in a set
+of men who are bred to public speaking. One bad effect arises from this,
+which is, that if the counsel is not a man of ability, this amazing
+volubility, which is found equally in all, serves more to weaken than to
+convince; for the little sense there may be, is spread over so wide a
+surface, or is diluted with such a dose of verbiage, that the whole
+becomes tasteless and insipid to the last degree. But this fluency, on
+the other hand, in the hands of a man of talents and genius, is a most
+powerful weapon. It hurries you along with a velocity which, from its
+very rapidity, is delightful; and where it cannot convince, it amuses,
+fascinates, and overpowers you.
+
+One thing struck me as remarkable in the French form of trial, which
+perhaps might be with benefit adopted by England. All exceptions and
+challenges to jurymen are made in private, and not, as with us, in open
+court. This is a more delicate method, and no man's character can suffer
+(as is sometimes the case in England) by being rejected. The trial by
+jury is very far from being popular in France; indeed, upon an average I
+have heard more voices against it than advocates for its continuance.
+The great cause for this dissatisfaction is that which leads to various
+other calamitous consequences in that kingdom,--the want of public
+spirit in France.--The French have literally no idea of any duties which
+they must voluntarily, without the prospect of reward, undertake for
+their country. It never enters their heads that a man may be responsible
+for the neglect of those public duties, for the performance of which he
+receives no regular salary.--There is a constant connection in their
+minds, between business and payment, between money and obligation: and
+as for that noble and patriotic spirit which will undergo any labour
+from a disinterested sense of public duty, it is long since any such
+feeling has existed, and it will probably, if things continue in their
+present state, be long before it will exist again in France.
+
+It might be imagined, from the advantages in the administration of
+criminal justice, that France was in this respect equal, if not superior
+to Britain.--This, however, is by no means the case. The written
+criminal code of France is indeed apparently more humane, and the civil
+code less intricate and voluminous than with us in England. But there is
+a wide and striking difference between this code, drawn up with all the
+luminousness of speculative benevolence, and the manner in which the
+same code is carried into execution: What signifies the purity of the
+code, if the executive part of the system, the nomination of the judges,
+the direction of the sentences, and the reversal of the whole
+proceedings, was submitted to the power, and constituted part of the
+iron prerogative, of a despotic Sovereign. It was the constant practice
+of the late Emperor to appoint, whenever it was necessary for the
+accomplishment of his own ends, what he denominated a COUR PREVOITALE--a
+species of court consisting of judges of his own selection, who, with
+summary procedure, condemned or acquitted, according to the pleasure of
+its master. Not only was this court erected, which was in every respect
+under the controul of the Emperor, but by means of his police
+emissaries, of those pensioned spies whom he insinuated into all the
+offices, and the remotest branches of the political administration, he
+contrived to overawe the different judges, to keep them in perpetual
+fear of the loss of their official situation, and in this manner to beat
+down the evidence, to bias the sentence, and finally, to direct the
+verdict. The judicial situations became latterly so completely under the
+influence of the creatures of the Court, that I was informed by the
+lawyers, that no judge was sure of remaining for two months in his
+official situation.
+
+Upon the important subject of criminal delinquency, I am sorry to say
+the only information I contrived to collect was extremely
+unsatisfactory. I had been promised, by an intelligent barrister, with
+whom I had the good fortune to become acquainted, a detailed opinion
+upon the state of criminal delinquency in France; but in the meantime
+Napoleon landed from Elba, and my friend was called away from his civil
+duties to join the national guard, who were marched, when it was too
+late, in pursuit of Bonaparte.
+
+From the calendar of crimes, however, which I had the opportunity of
+examining at the Aix assizes, as well as from the decided opinion of
+many of the lawyers there, I should be induced to hazard the opinion,
+that the crimes of robbery, burglary, and murder, are infinitely less
+frequent than in England. The great cause of this is undoubtedly to be
+attributed to the excellence of their police. Wherever such a preventive
+as the system of Espionage, and that carried to the perfection which we
+find it possessing in that country, exists, it is impossible that the
+greater crimes should be found to any alarming decree. There is a power,
+a vigour and an omnipresence in this effective police, which can check
+every criminal excess before it has attained any thing like a general or
+rooted influence throughout the kingdom; and its power, under the
+administration of Napoleon, was exerted to an excessive degree in
+France. Such a mode, however, of diminishing the catalogue of crimes,
+could exist only under a state of things which the inhabitants of a free
+country would not suffer for a moment; and indeed, to anyone possessing
+but the faintest idea of what liberty is, there is something in the idea
+of a system of espionage which is dreadful. It is like some of those
+dark and gigantic dæmons, embodied by the genius of fiction, the form of
+which you cannot trace, although you feel its presence, which stalks
+about enveloped in congenial gloom, and whose iron grasp falls upon you
+the more terrible, because it is unsuspected. Fortunately such a monster
+can never be met with in a free country. It shuns the pure, and
+untainted atmosphere of liberty, and its lungs will only play with
+freedom in the foul and thick air of a decided despotism.
+
+The effects of this system of espionage, in destroying every thing upon
+which individual happiness in society depends; the free and unrestrained
+communication of opinion between friends, and even the confidence of
+domestic society, can hardly be conceived by any one who has lived in a
+free country. Upon this subject, I had an opportunity of conversing with
+a most respectable and intelligent British merchant, who, previous to
+the revolution, had been a partner in a banking-house in the French
+metropolis; and afterwards had the misfortune of being kept a prisoner
+in Paris for the last twelve years. The accounts he gave us regarding
+the excessive rigour of the police, and the jealousy of every thing like
+intercourse, were truly terrible. It had become a maxim in Paris, an
+axiom whose truth was proved by the general practice and conduct of its
+inhabitants, to believe every third person a spy. Any matter of moment,
+any thing bordering upon confidential communication, was alone to be
+trusted _entre quatre yeux_. The servants in every family, it was well
+known, were universally in the pay of government. They could not be
+hired till they produced their licenses, and these licenses, to serve as
+domestics, they all procured from the office of the police. From that
+office their wages were as certain, and probably (if the information
+they conveyed was of importance), more regularly paid than those they
+received from their masters. Even, therefore, in the most secret
+retirement of your own family, you could never speak with perfect
+freedom. Mr B----, the gentleman above mentioned, informed me, that
+before he dared to mention, even to his wife or family, any subject
+connected with the affairs of the day, or when they wished to speak
+freely and unrestrainedly upon any point whatever, every corner of the
+room was first examined, the chinks of the doors, and the walls of the
+adjoining apartments underwent a similar scrutiny; and even then they
+did not dare to introduce any subject which was nearly connected with
+the political government of the country.
+
+A lawyer, who lived upon the same floor with this gentleman, was
+astonished, one morning, by the entry of the police officers into his
+room at four in the morning, without the slightest previous warning.
+They pulled him out of bed--hurried him away to the police office, kept
+him in strict custody for several days, seized all his papers; and
+having at last discovered that their suspicions were ill-founded, and
+that he had been secured upon erroneous information, he was brought back
+to his lodgings by the same hands, and in the same summary manner in
+which he had been removed; and he is to this day ignorant of the cause
+of his detention, or the nature of the offence of which he had been
+suspected.
+
+Amongst the few English who, along with Mr B. were detained in Paris, it
+was naturally to be expected, that the precautions taken to deceive the
+police, and to prevent the suspicion of any secret intercourse, were
+still more severe and rigorous than were used by the native French. As
+the subjects of this country, they naturally became the objects of
+continual suspicion, and were more strictly watched than any other
+persons. They contrived, however, to procure, although at distant
+intervals, the sight of an English newspaper. Nine or ten months
+frequently elapsed without their receiving any intelligence from
+England. When they had the good fortune to procure one, the precautions
+necessary to be adopted were hardly to be believed. The same gentleman
+informed me, that upon receiving an English paper, he did not venture to
+mention the circumstance even to his wife and children, lest, in their
+joy, some incautious words might have escaped from them before the
+servants of the family, in which case, detection would have been
+immediate, and imprisonment inevitable. Keeping it, therefore, entirely
+to himself, he concealed it from every eye during the day, and at night,
+after the family had gone to bed, he sat up, lighted his taper, and,
+when every thing was still and silent about him, ventured, only then, to
+read over the paper, and to get by heart the most important parts of the
+intelligence regarding England; and he afterwards transmitted the
+invaluable present to some secret friend, who, in the same manner, dared
+only to peruse it at midnight, and with the same precautions.
+
+A very sensible distinction has been made in the French code, in the
+difference of punishment which is inflicted upon robbery, when it has or
+has not been accompanied by murder; and the consequence of such
+distinction is, that in that country the most determined robberies are
+seldom, as they often are with us, accompanied with murder; whilst the
+accurate proportionment of punishment to the crimes, encourages persons
+possessing information to come forward, and removes those natural
+scruples which all must feel, when they reflect that they may be the
+chief instruments in bringing down a capital penalty upon the head of an
+individual, whose trivial offence was in no respect deserving of this
+last and severest punishment of the law.
+
+The crime of which I heard most frequently, and of which the common
+occurrence may be traced to the miserable condition to which trade and
+commerce were, during the last few years, reduced in France, and to that
+general laxity of moral conduct which even now distinguishes that
+country, was _Fraudulent Bankruptcy_. The merchant, no longer possessing
+the means of making his fortune by fair speculation, has recourse to
+this nefarious mode of bettering his condition. He settles with his
+creditors for a small per centage; disposes of his property by
+fictitious sales, _ventes simulees_, and thus enriches himself upon the
+ruin of his creditors. At a small town in the south of France, where I
+for sometime resided, there were several individuals, who, it was well
+known, had made their fortunes in this manner; and at Marseilles it
+had, as I understood, become in some measure a common practice. The
+crime is seldom discovered, attended at least with those circumstances
+of corroborative evidence which are necessary in bringing it to trial.
+Upon detection, accompanied by complete proof, the punishment is severe.
+It consists in being condemned for fourteen years, or for life, to the
+galleys, and in branding the delinquent with letters denoting his crime:
+_B F_ for Fraudulent Bankruptcy. At one of the trials of the Aix
+assizes, at which I was present, a young man of excellent family, son of
+the Chevalier de St Louis, was convicted of this crime, and although it
+was proved that he had been deceived by his partner, a man of decidedly
+bad character, but possessed of deep cunning, he was condemned for
+fourteen years to the galleys: Owing to a flaw in the process, the
+sentence was set aside by the Cour de Cassation, or Supreme Court of
+Appeal at Paris, and a new trial was ordered.
+
+From the same cause, which I have mentioned above, the perfection of
+their police, petty theft is not of such common occurrence in France as
+in England. The country, in short, at the time when we passed through
+it, was very quiet, and few crimes were committed; but on the
+disbanding of the troops, a great change may be expected. These restless
+creatures must find work, or they will make it for themselves. It is a
+hard question how the un-warlike Louis is to employ them. Many talk of
+the necessity of sending an immense force to St Domingo; and it would
+appear wise policy to devise some expedition of this nature, which would
+swallow up the restless, the profligate, and the abandoned.
+
+It is not our intention, nor indeed would the limits of our work permit,
+of entering into the question of what ought to be the conduct of the
+King. But there is another question, from answering which we can
+scarcely escape.
+
+Are the majority of the French nation well affected to the Bourbons?
+This is a question which is put to every person who returns from France.
+It is a natural, a most important, but a most difficult one to answer. I
+endeavoured, by every method in my power, by a communication with those
+gentlemen of the province where I resided, whose characters and
+situations entitled them to implicit credit; by endeavouring to satisfy
+myself as to the real sentiments of the peasantry, and by a perusal of
+those documents regarding the state of the country, which were believed
+the most authentic, to acquire upon this subject something like
+satisfactory information. As to the sentiments entertained at present by
+the generality of the French people upon this subject, I cannot speak,
+but with regard to the period which I passed in France, which began in
+November 1814, and ended at the time of the landing of Napoleon from
+Elba, I have no hesitation in declaring, that it appeared to me, that
+the majority of the French nation were at that time hostile to the
+interests of the Bourbons. On the other hand, in consulting the same
+sources of information as I have above enumerated, it was as evident
+that they are not generally favourable to the restoration of the
+Imperial Government under Napoleon. What appeared at that period to be
+the general desire of the nation, was the establishment of a new
+constitution, formed upon those principles, embracing those new
+interests, and compatible with that new state of things which had been
+created by the revolution. It was on this account that they favoured
+Napoleon.
+
+The situation of France then exhibited perhaps one of the most singular
+pictures ever presented to view by a civilized nation; a people without
+exterior commerce, and whose interior trade and manufactures, except in
+some favourite spots, was almost annihilated; whose youth was yearly
+drained off to supply the army, but whose agriculture has been
+constantly improving, which, for the last twelve years, had been
+subjected to all the complicated horrors of a state of war, but which,
+after all this, could yet earnestly desire a continuance of this state.
+A nation where there was scarcely to be found an intermediate rank
+between the Sovereign and the peasantry--for since the destruction of
+the _ancienne noblesse_, and more particularly, since all ranks have
+been admitted to a participation in the dignities conferred on the
+military, all have become equally aspiring, and all consider themselves
+upon the same level:--A nation where, notwithstanding the division into
+parties, possessing the most opposite interests and opinions, and
+pulling every different way, the greater part certainly desired a
+government similar to Napoleon's, and would even unite to obtain it:--A
+nation who talked of nothing but liberty, and yet suffered themselves to
+be subjected to the conscription, to the loss of their trade, to the
+severest taxes, the greatest personal deprivations, and the most
+complete restraint in the expression of their opinions--to the continued
+extortions of a military chief, the most despotic who ever reigned in a
+European country, and whose acts of oppression are truly Asiatic; and
+who tamely bore all this oppression, supported by their national vanity,
+because they wish to bear the name _of the great people_: Great, because
+their ambition is unbounded; great as a nation of rapacious and
+blood-thirsty soldiers; great in every species of immorality and vice!
+Who, led away by this miserable vanity, have been false to their oaths,
+so recently pledged to a mild and virtuous prince, very unfit to rule
+such a race of villains, because he is mild and virtuous.
+
+But it is not generally believed, that the majority in France favoured
+Napoleon, though it is but a natural consequence of the state of the
+country; I shall therefore enumerate the divisions of ranks, and the
+sentiments of each.--All allow that the army were his friends; on that
+subject, therefore, I shall say nothing.--Next to the army, let us look
+to the civil authorities.--All these were in his favour--all that part
+of the civil authorities at least, who have the immediate management of
+the people.--It is in vain that the heads of office in Paris, the
+miserable bodies styled the Chambers of Parliament and the Counsellors
+of the realm, were favourably inclined towards the King.--Napoleon well
+knew that these were not the men who rule France.--France, as an entire
+kingdom, may be said to be governed by these men; but France,
+subdivided, is governed by the prefects, and the gens-d'armes of
+Napoleon.--Not a man of these was displaced by the King, and although
+they were all furious in their proclamations against the usurper, they,
+with few exceptions, joined him, and these few exceptions were removed
+by him.--The most powerful men in France under Napoleon were these
+prefects and gens-d'armes, and knowing their power, he was always
+cautious in their selection; wherever he conceived that they really
+favoured the Bourbon interest, he removed them.
+
+Next, the whole class of Receveurs were his devoted friends.--These men
+were all continued in place under the un-warlike reign of Louis, but
+where no conscription and no droits reunis were to be enforced, they had
+poverty staring them in the face.--Is it unnatural that they should
+favour him whose government enriches them?
+
+To the shadows of nobility, to the ghost of aristocracy which had
+re-appeared under the King, no power or influence can be
+attributed,--they dared not think, and could not act.
+
+The better classes of the inhabitants of the cities, whether the traders
+and manufacturers, or the bourgeoise of France, are those who were the
+most decided enemies of Bonaparte: but let us look how their arm is
+weakened and palsied by the situation of their property.--They have many
+of them purchased the lands of the emigrants at very low prices, and, in
+many instances, from persons who could only bestow possession without
+legal tenure.--These feel uneasy in their new possessions; they dread
+the ascendancy which the nobility might still obtain under their lawful
+Sovereign: Napoleon came proclaiming to them that he would maintain them
+in their properties. Nor were all the traders and manufacturers his
+enemies.--He encouraged the trade of Lyons, for example, of Paris, of
+Rouen, and other interior towns, and he pitted these interior towns
+against the sea-ports of Bourdeaux, Marseilles, &c. Thus, even with
+commercial men, he had some friends.--And here, in mentioning Paris, I
+must observe, that the most slavish deference is paid by the whole of
+France to the opinions, as well as the fashions, which prevail at the
+capital. From the encouragement which he offered to its interior trade,
+from the grand works which he was constantly carrying on, affording
+labour to the idle rabble; from the magnificent _spectacles_ supplied by
+his reviews, fetes, and festivities, and most of all, from the
+celebrated system of gulling and stage-trick, practised by his police,
+and through the medium of the press--From all these circumstances, it
+arises, that Napoleon was no where so much beloved as at Paris; and
+Napoleon took good care that Paris afforded to all France an example
+such as he would wish them to follow.--It is difficult to say why the
+French should tamely follow the example of their despot; but they forgot
+that he was a despot, and they were not singular as a nation in
+following the example _of their chief_, though, perhaps, they carried
+their obedience to a more slavish pitch than any other people.--"En
+France (says Mons. Montesquieu) il en est des manieres et de la facon de
+vivre, comme des modes, les Français changent des meurs selon l'age de
+leur Roi,--Le Monarque pouvait meme parvenir a rendre la nation grave
+s'il l'avait entrepris."
+
+Next in rank, though, from their numbers and influence, perhaps, after
+the army, the most powerful body in the community, the situation of the
+peasants must be considered. They had either seized upon, or purchased,
+at a low rate, the lands of the emigrants, and the national domains;
+these they had brought into the best state of cultivation; without the
+interference of any one, they directly drew the profits. The oppression
+in agriculture, which existed before the revolution, whether from the
+authority of the Seigneurs, from the corvees, from tythes, game laws,
+&c. all are done away--become rich and flourishing, they are able to pay
+the taxes, which, under Napoleon, were not so severe as is generally
+supposed.--But they had every thing to fear from the return of the
+noblesse, and from the re-establishment of the ranks and order which
+must exist under the new constitution of France. Can it then be
+considered that the peasantry should see their own interest in
+maintaining the revolutionary order of things? The more unjust their
+tenure, the more cause have they to fear; and unenlightened as many of
+them are, their fears once raised, will not easily be controlled.
+Napoleon had most politically excited alarm among them, and they are
+favourably inclined towards him. This powerful body have no leaders to
+direct them: The respectable and wealthy farmer, possessing great landed
+property; the yeoman, the country gentleman,--all these ranks are
+abolished. Where the views of the Sovereign are inimical to the
+peasantry, as was imagined under Louis XVIII. that body will powerfully
+resist him; where they were in concert, as under Napoleon, that body
+became his chief support next to his military force.
+
+It is not enough that Louis XVIII. had never invaded their property--it
+is not enough that in different shapes he issued proclamations, and
+assurances, that he had no such intentions,--the peasantry felt
+insecure; and they dreaded the influence of his counsellors, and of the
+noblesse. The low rabble of France, at all times restless, and desirous
+of change, were favourable to Napoleon;--they wished for a continuance
+of that thoughtless dissipation, and dreadful immorality, which he
+encouraged; they wished for employment in his public works,--they looked
+for situations in his army.
+
+It may then be said, that among all ranks Napoleon had friends. Who then
+were against him? All those who wished for peace: all those who desired
+the re-establishment of the church: all those who had the cause of
+morality and virtue at heart--all the good,--but, alas! in France, they
+were few in number.
+
+I have only enumerated the great and leading parties in the community.
+It was my intention to have touched on the sentiments of the different
+professions, but I have been already too tedious; I shall here only
+enumerate a few of the classes, who, as they are thrown out of bread by
+the return of the Bourbons, and the new system of government, will be
+ever busily employed in favouring a despotic and military government, a
+continuance of war, and of a conscription.
+
+1st, All the prefects, collectors of taxes, and their agents, who were
+employed in the countries subjected to Napoleon.
+
+2d, The many officers, and under agents, employed in the conscription,
+and in collecting the droits reunis.
+
+3d, The police emissaries of all ranks, forming that enormous mass who
+conducted the grand machine of espionage, directed the _public spirit_,
+and supplied information to the late Emperor.
+
+4th, All the rich and wealthy army contractors, furnishers, &c. &c.
+
+Having attempted to shew that the situation of the people in France was
+highly favourable to the views of the usurper, let me now observe, that
+there are other circumstances which greatly aided his cause.
+
+1st, The vanity of the nation was hurt: they had not forgotten their
+defeat by the allies, and the proceedings of Congress, in confining
+within narrow bounds, that nation, who, but a year ago, gave laws to the
+continent, had tended to aggravate their feelings. It is difficult for
+any nation to shrink at once into insignificance, from the possession of
+unlimited power; it is impossible for France to maintain an inglorious
+peace.
+
+2d, The spirit of the nation had become completely military. One year of
+peace cannot be supposed to have done away the effects of twelve years
+of victory.
+
+3d, The general laxity of morals, and the habits of dissipation and
+idleness, which have followed from the revolution, and have been taught
+by the military, and especially by the disbanded soldiers, were
+favourable to him.
+
+4th, He came at the very time when his prisoners had returned from all
+quarters of the globe; he came again to unite them under the _revered
+eagle_, emblem of rapine and plunder, which they everywhere looked up
+to; in short, if it had been suggested to any one, possessing a thorough
+knowledge of the situation of France, to say at what time Napoleon was
+most likely to succeed, he must have pitched on the moment selected by
+him. There are indeed many circumstances which induce me to suppose,
+that the plan for his restoration had been partly formed before he left
+Fontainbleau; for it is well known, that he long hesitated--that he
+often thought of making use of his remaining force, (a force of about
+thirty thousand men), and fighting his way to Italy; that his Marshals
+only prevailed on him, and that he yielded to their advice, when he
+might have thought and acted for himself. The conduct of Ney favours the
+supposition: he selected for him the spot, of all others, the most
+favourable for his views, should they be directed to Italy; he
+stipulated for his rank, for a guard of veterans; he is described as
+using a boldness and insolence of speech to Napoleon, which he would not
+have dared to use, had there not been an understanding between them. He
+covered his treachery by a garb of the same nature, when in presence of
+his lawful Sovereign: open in his abuse of the usurper, while laying
+plans to join him.
+
+There is a very peculiar circumstance in Bonaparte's character, which
+is, that at times, he makes the most unguarded speeches, forgetful of
+his own interest. Thus, when the national guard of Lyons begged
+permission to accompany him on his march, he said to them, "You have
+suffered the brother of your King to leave you unattended--go--you are
+unworthy to follow me." Thus, when at Frejus, he said to the Mayor,--"I
+am sorry that Frejus is in Provence; I hate Provence, but I have always
+wished your town well; and, _ere long, I will be among you again_." This
+speech, which I had from the Prefect of Aix, who was intimately attached
+to Napoleon and his interests, I know to be authentic. In it, even the
+place of his landing seemed to be determined. One thing is certain, that
+the plan, if not commenced before his abdication, was, at all events,
+begun immediately after; for a long time must have been necessary to
+arrange matters in such a manner that he should not find the slightest
+opposition in his march to Paris.
+
+I have thus attempted to give my readers some account of the state of
+France under Napoleon. From this account, hastily written, they will
+draw their own conclusions. Mine, attached as I am to one party; knowing
+little of politics, only interested as a Briton in the fate of my
+country, are these:--That France decidedly wishes to live by war and
+plunder--that France deserves no such government as that of the virtuous
+Louis--that, till the soldiery are disbanded, and their leaders
+punished, France can never be governed by the Bourbons:--that the
+majority in the nation do not wish for Napoleon in particular, but for a
+revolutionary government, and that we have no right of interference with
+their choice: but that the propriety of our immediately engaging in war
+could not be doubted, for our very existence as a nation depended on
+such conduct--that we had the same right to attack Bonaparte, as we had
+to attack a common robber, more particularly, if this robber had
+repeatedly planned and devised the destruction of our property.
+
+They will draw the happiest conclusions in favour of our own blessed
+country, from a comparison with France--looking on that unhappy nation,
+they will exclaim with me, in the beautiful words of La Harpe:
+[45]"J'excuse et n'envie point ceux qui peuvent vivre comme s'ils
+n'avoient ni souffert ni vu souffrir; mais qu'ils me pardonnent de ne
+pouvoir les imiter. Ces jours d'une degradation entière et innouie de
+la nature humaine sont sous mes yeux, pesent sur mon ame et retombent
+sans cesse sous ma plume, destinée à les retraçer jusqu'à mon dernier
+moment."[46]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+MODERN FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+An Englishman never dreams of entering into conversation without some
+previous knowledge upon the point which is the subject of discussion.
+You will pass but few days in France before you will be convinced, that
+to a Frenchman this is not at all necessary. The moment he enters the
+room, or caffé, where a circle may happen to be conversing, he
+immediately takes part in the discussion--of whatever nature, or upon
+whatever subject that may be, is not of the most distant consequence to
+him. He strikes in with the utmost self-assurance and adroitness,
+maintains a prominent part in the conversation with the most perfect
+plausibility; and although, from his want of accurate information, he
+will rarely instruct, he seldom fails to amuse by the exuberance of his
+fancy, and the rapidity of his elocution. But take any one of his
+sentences to pieces, analyze it, strip it of its gaudy clothing and
+fanciful decorations, and you will be astonished what skeletons of bare,
+shallow, and spiritless ideas will frequently present themselves.
+
+In England, it often happens, that a man who is perfectly master of the
+subject in discussion, from the effect of shyness or embarrassment, will
+convey his information with such an appearance of awkwardness and
+hesitation, as to create a temporary suspicion of dulness, or of
+incapacity. But upon further examination, the true and sterling value of
+his remarks is easily discernible. The same can very seldom be said of a
+Frenchman. His conversation, which delights at the moment, generally
+fades upon recollection. The information of the first is like a
+beautiful gem, whose real value is concealed by the encrustation with
+which it is covered; the other is a dazzling but sorry paste in a
+brilliant setting. [47]"Un Français," says M. de Stael, with great
+truth, "scait encore parler, lors meme il n'a point d'idees;" and the
+reason why a Frenchman can do so is, because ideas, which are the
+essential requisites in conversation to any other man, are not so to
+him. He is in possession of many substitutes, composed of a few of those
+set phrases and accommodating sentences which fit into any subject; and
+these, mixed up with appropriate nods, significant gestures, and above
+all, with the characteristic shrugging of the shoulders, are ever ready
+at hand when the tide of his ideas may happen to run shallow.
+
+The perpetual cheerfulness of the French, under almost every situation,
+is well known, and has been repeatedly remarked. One great secret by
+which they contrive to preserve this invariable levity of mind, is
+probably this extraordinary talent of theirs for a particular kind of
+conversation. An Englishman, engaged in the business and duties of life,
+even at his hours of relaxation, is occupied in thinking upon them. In
+the midst of company he is often an insulated being; his mind, refusing
+intercourse with those around him, retires within itself. In this manner
+he inevitably becomes, even in his common hours, grave and serious, and
+if under misfortunes, perhaps melancholy and morose. A Frenchman is in
+every respect a different being: He cannot be grave or unhappy, because
+he never allows himself time to become so. His mind is perpetually
+busied with the affairs of the moment. If he is in company, he speaks,
+without introduction, to every gentleman in the room. Any thing, the
+most trivial, serves him for a hook on which to hang his story; and this
+generally lasts as long as he has breath to carry him on. He recounts to
+you, the first hour you meet with him, his whole individual history;
+diverges into anecdotes about his relations, pulls out his watch, and
+under the cover shews you the hair of his mistress, apostrophizes the
+curl--opens his pocket-book, insists upon your reading his letters to
+her, sings you the song which he composed when he was _au desespoir_ at
+their parting, asks your opinion of it, then whirls off to a discussion
+on the nature of love; leaves that the next moment to philosophize upon
+friendship, compliments you, _en passant_, and claims you for his
+friend; hopes that the connection will be perpetual, and concludes by
+asking you _to do him the honour of telling him your name_. In this
+manner he is perpetually occupied; he has a part to act which renders
+serious thought unnecessary, and silence impossible. If he has been
+unfortunate, he recounts his distresses, and in doing so, forgets them.
+His mind never reposes for a moment upon itself; his secret is to keep
+it in perpetual motion, and, like a shuttlecock, to whip it back and
+forward with such rapidity, that although its feathers may have been
+ruffled, and its gilding effaced by many hard blows, yet neither you nor
+he have time to discover it.
+
+Nothing can present a stronger contrast between the French and English
+character, and nothing evinces more clearly the superiority of the
+French in conversation, and the art of amusement, than the scenes which
+take place in the interior of a French diligence. They who go to France
+and travel in their own carriages are not aware of what they lose.--The
+interior of a French diligence, if you are tolerably fortunate in your
+company, is a perfect epitome of the French nation.--When you enter a
+public coach in England, it is certainly very seldom that, in the course
+of the few hours you may remain in it, you meet with an entertaining
+companion. Chance, indeed, may now and then throw a pleasant man in your
+way; but these are but thinly sown amongst those sour and silent
+gentlemen, who are your general associates, and who, now and then eyeing
+each other askance, look as if they could curse themselves for being
+thrown into such involuntary contiguity.
+
+The scene in a French diligence is the most different from all this that
+can be conceived. Every thing there is life, and motion, and joy.--The
+coach generally holds from ten to twelve persons, and even then is
+sufficiently roomy.--The moment you enter you find yourself on terms of
+the most perfect familiarity with the whole set of your travelling
+companions. In an instant every tongue is at work, and every individual
+bent upon making themselves happy for the moment, and contributing to
+the happiness of their fellow travellers. Talking, joking, laughing,
+singing, reciting,--every enjoyment which is light and pleasurable is
+instantly adopted.--A gentleman takes a box from his pocket, opens it,
+and with a look of the most finished politeness, presents it, full of
+sweetmeats, to the different ladies in succession. One of these, in
+gratitude for this attention, proposes that which she well knows will be
+agreeable to the whole party, some species of round game like our
+cross-purposes, involving forfeits. The proposal is carried by
+acclamation,--the game is instantly begun, and every individual is
+included: Woe be now to the aristocracy of the interior! Old and young,
+honest and dishonest, respectable and disrespectable, all are involved
+in undistinguished confusion--but all are content to be so, and happy in
+the exchange. The game in the meantime proceeds, and the different
+forfeits become more numerous. The generality of these ensure, indeed,
+from their nature, a punctuality of performance. To kiss the handsomest
+woman in the party, to pay her a compliment in some extempore effusion,
+or to whisper a confidence (_faire une confidence_) in her ear--all
+these are hardly enjoined before they are happily accomplished. But
+others, which it would be difficult to particularize, are more amusing
+in their consequences, and less easy, in their execution.
+
+The ludicrous effect of this scene is much heightened by its being often
+carried on in the dark, for night brings no cessation; and we have
+ourselves, in travelling in this manner in the diligence, engaged in
+many a game of forfeits where, it is not too much to say, that our
+play-fellows, of both sexes, were certainly nearer to the grave than
+the cradle, being somewhere between fifty and fourscore. The scenes
+which then take place, the undistinguished clamours of young and old,
+the audible salutes from every quarter, which point to the perpetual
+succession of the forfeits, altogether compose a spectacle, which to a
+stranger is the most unexpected and extraordinary that can be possibly
+imagined.
+
+The conversation of a Frenchman, who possesses wit and information, is
+certainly superior to that of a clever man of any other country. It has
+a variety and playfulness, which, upon subjects of taste or fancy, or
+literature, delights and fascinates; but even their common conversation
+upon the most trivial matters is of a superior order, as far as
+amusement goes. However shallowly they may think upon a subject, they
+never fail to express themselves well. This is the case equally with
+those of both sexes. It is true, certainly, that in their subjects for
+conversation, they indulge in a wider range of selection; and in
+consequence, far more frequently without evincing the slightest scruple,
+overstep the bounds of decorum and delicacy. This is the inevitable
+effect of the peculiarity above noticed, that they must constantly
+converse; as their appetite for conversation is inordinate, their taste
+is necessarily less nice; provided they continue in motion, they are
+careless about the ground over which they travel. One unhappy
+consequence of this certainly is, that such carelessness extends to the
+women, even amongst the highest and best bred classes; and that these
+ideas of delicacy and tenderness, with which we are always accustomed to
+regard, in this country, the female mind, are shocked and grated against
+by the occurrence of scenes, the employment of expressions, and the
+mention of books which tend rather to disgust than to amuse, and which
+destroy in a moment that female fascination, which can never exist
+without that first and most material ingredient, modesty.
+
+The science of conversation in France, is not, as with us, confined
+principally to the higher classes, but extends to the whole body of the
+people. The reason is, that the lower ranks in that country invariably
+imitate the manners, style of society, and mode of conversation used by
+the higher orders. The lower ranks in England converse, no doubt; but
+then their conversation, and the subjects upon which it is employed, is
+exactly fitted to the rank they hold in society.
+
+In speaking of the literature of France, we shall have occasion to
+remark, that there is nothing in that country like an ancient or
+national poetry. This is perhaps not so much to be attributed to the
+excessive ignorance of the peasantry, as to the circumstance, that from
+the French peasantry invariably imitating the manners of the higher
+orders, there is no adaption of the manners of the labouring orders to
+the simple rank they fill in society. The innocence of rural life is
+thus lost. The shepherd, the peasant girl, the rustic labourer, whom you
+meet in France, are all in some measure artificial beings. They express
+themselves to any stranger they meet with ease and politeness, with a
+point and a vivacity which is certainly striking; but which is, of all
+things, the farthest removed from nature: and it is the consequence of
+this interchange which has taken place,--this imitation of the manners
+of the higher orders by the lower classes of the peasantry--that we
+shall in vain look for any thing in France like a simple national
+poetry. The truth, the simplicity, the nature, which ought to form it,
+are not to be found amongst any classes of the French people. The poetry
+of France, both ancient and modern, that of Ronsard and Marot, in
+earlier days; and that of Boileau, Racine, Corneille and Voltaire, in
+more modern times, bears the marks of having been formed in the court.
+If, for instance, in Scotland, the lower ranks, the labouring classes,
+like those of France, had transplanted the fictitious manners of the
+higher classes into the innocence of their cottage, or the sequestered
+solitude of their vallies--where, under such a state of things, could
+there ever have arisen such gifted spirits as Burns, or Ramsay, or
+Ferguson? and where should we have found, that truth, that beauty, that
+genuine nature, in the lives and manners of our peasantry, which has not
+only furnished such poets with some of their finest subjects, but has
+instructed these peasants themselves to pour out, in unpremeditated
+strains, those ancient and beautiful songs, which art and education
+could never have taught them; and which, in the progress of time, have
+formed that unrivalled national poetry, perhaps one of the brightest
+gems in the diadem of Scottish genius. But we must return to France.
+
+The French have been always celebrated for their natural gaiety of
+character. One exception from this is material to be noticed. It must
+strike you the moment you look into the countenances of the soldiery, or
+examine the air and manner of the generality of the lower officers. A
+dark and gloomy expression, if not a suspicious, and often savage
+appearance, is their characteristic feature; and although this is
+disguised by occasional sallies of loud and intemperate mirth, these
+sallies are more like the desperate and reckless exertions of a troop of
+banditti, than the temperate and unpremeditated cheerfulness of a
+regular soldiery. Nor is this look confined entirely to the military.
+The habits of the whole nation are changed; but yet, with all this
+alteration, there remains enough of their characteristic gaiety to
+distinguish them from every other people in Europe.
+
+Their excessive frivolity is perhaps even more remarkable than their
+gaiety; they have not sufficient steadiness for the uninterrupted
+avocations of graver life. In the midst of the most serious or deep
+discussion, a Frenchman will suddenly stop, and, with a look of perhaps
+more solemn importance than he bestowed upon the subject of debate, will
+adjust the ruffle of his brother savant, adding some observation on the
+propriety of adorning the exterior as well as the interior of science.
+[48]"Leur badinage," says Montesquieu, "naturellement fait pour las
+toilettes, semble etre provenu a former le caractere general de la
+nation. On badine au conseil, on badine a la tête d'une armee, on badine
+avec un ambassadeur."
+
+The vanity of the whole nation, it is well known, is without all bounds;
+and although this is most apparent, perhaps, and less unequivocally
+shewn in every point connected with military affairs, it is yet confined
+to no one subject in particular, but embraces all--in arts, science,
+manufactures; in every thing, indeed, upon which the spirit and genius
+of a nation can be exercised, it is not too much to say, that they
+believe themselves superior to every other nation or country. Nay, what
+is very extraordinary, so much have they been accustomed to hear
+themselves talk in this exaggerated style; so natural to them have now
+become those expressions of arrogant superiority, that vanity has, in
+its adoption into the French character, and in the effects which it
+there produces, almost changed its nature.
+
+In other countries--in our own, for instance, a very vain man is an
+object of ridicule, and generally of distrust. In France he is neither;
+on the contrary, there appears throughout the kingdom a kind of general
+agreement, a species of silent understood compact amongst them, that
+every thing asserted by one Frenchman to another, provided it is done
+with sufficient confidence and coolness, however individually vain, or
+absolutely incredible, ought to be fully and implicitly believed. It is
+this excessive idea which the French instil into each other of their own
+superiority, joined to the extreme ignorance of the great body of the
+people, which composes that prominent feature in their national
+character--_their credulity_--and which has long rendered them the
+easiest of all nations to be imposed upon by political artifice, and the
+submissive dupes of those travelling quacks and ingenious charlatans,
+who in this country are more than commonly successful in ruining the
+health and impoverishing the pockets of their devoted patients. An
+instance of this occurs to me, which happened to myself when residing in
+the south of France.
+
+At one of the great fairs where I was present, there appeared upon an
+elevated stage, an elderly and serious-looking gentleman, dressed in a
+complete suit of solemn black, with a little child kneeling at his feet.
+"Messieurs," said he to the multitude, and bowing with the most perfect
+confidence and self-possession--[49]"Messieurs, c'est impossible de
+tromper des gens instruits comme vous. Je vais absolument couper la tête
+a cet-enfant: _Mais_ avant de commencer, il faut que je vous fasse voir
+que je ne suis pas un charlatan. Eh bien, en attendant et pour un espece
+d'exorde: Qui est entre vous qui à le mal au dent?" "Moi," exclaimed
+instantly a sturdy looking peasant, opening his jaws, and disclosing a
+row of grinders which might have defied a shark. "Monsieur, (said the
+doctor, inspecting his gums), it is but too true. The disorders
+attending these small but inestimable members, the teeth, are invariably
+to be traced to a species of worm, and this the most obstinate, as well
+as the most fatal species in the vermicular tribe, which contrives to
+conceal itself at the root of the affected member. Gentlemen, we have
+all our respective antipathies; and it is by means of these that the
+most fatal and unaccountable effects are produced upon us. Worms,
+gentlemen, have also their prevailing antipathies. To subdue the animal,
+we have only to become acquainted with its disposition. The worm, Sir,
+at the bottom of your tooth, is of that faculty or tribe which _abhors
+copper_. It is the vermis halcomisicus, _or copper-hating worm_. Upon
+placing this penknife in the solution contained in this bottle,"
+(continued he, holding up a small phial, which contained a
+green-coloured liquid), "it is, you see, immediately changed into
+copper." The patient then, at the doctor's request, approached. A female
+assistant stood between him and the crowd, and in a few minutes the
+tooth was delivered of a worm, which, from its size, might certainly
+have given the toothache to the Dragon of Wantley,
+
+    "Who swallow'd the Mayor, asleep in his chair,
+    And pick'd his teeth with the mace."
+
+The peasant declared he felt no more pain, and the crowd eagerly pressed
+forward, (with the exception, we may believe, of the coppersmiths
+amongst the audience), and purchased the bottles containing this
+invaluable prescription. Before I had left the party, I discovered that
+the doctor, previously to the performing another trick, had borrowed
+from the crowd a gold piece of twenty francs, two pieces of five francs,
+a silver watch, and several smaller articles, nor did it appear they had
+the slightest suspicion that the learned doctor might have changed these
+articles as well as the penknife; and that although there were
+copper-hating worms, there might exist other kinds of human vermin,
+which might not reckon silver among their antipathies. This
+characteristic vanity, and the excessive credulity of the people, were
+strikingly exhibited in another ludicrous adventure of the same kind,
+which happened to us when I was resident at Aix.
+
+We were alarmed one morning by a loud flourish of trumpets, almost
+immediately under our windows. On looking out, we beheld a kind of
+triumphal car, preceded by six avant couriers, clothed in scarlet and
+gold, mounted on uncommon fine horses, and with trumpets in their hands.
+In the car was placed a complete band of musicians, and it was, after a
+little interval in the procession, followed by a superb open carriage,
+the outside front of which was entirely covered with rich crimson velvet
+and gold lace. The most singular feature about the carriage was its
+shape, for there projected from it in front, a kind of large magazine,
+(covered up also with a cloth of velvet,) which was in its dimensions
+larger than the carriage itself. In this open carriage sat a plain
+looking, dark, fat man, reclining in an attitude of the most perfect
+ease, and genteelly dressed. The whole cortege halted, in the course of
+Aix, almost immediately below our house. I joined the audience which had
+collected around it. Of course all was on the tiptoe of expectation.
+There was a joyful buzz of satisfaction through the crowd, and endless
+were the conjectures formed by our own party at the window. At length,
+after a flourish of trumpets, the gentleman rose, and uncovering the
+large magazine, showed that it contained an almost endless assemblage of
+bottles, from the greatest to the smallest dimensions. He then,
+advancing gravely, addressed himself to the audience in these words:
+[50]"Messieurs, dans l'univers il n'ya qu'un soleil; dans le royaume de
+France il n'ya qu'un Roi; dans la medicine il n'ya que Charini." With
+this he placed his hand on his heart, bowed, and drew himself up with a
+look of the most glorious complacency. This exordium was received with
+the most rapturous applause by the crowd, who, from having often seen
+him in his progress through the kingdom, had known before that this was
+_Charini himself_, the celebrated itinerant _worm doctor_. "Gentlemen,"
+he then proceeded, "it has been the noble object of my life to
+investigate the origin and causes of disease, and fortunate is it for
+the world that it has been so. Attend, then, to my discoveries: Worms
+are at the bottom of all disease,--they are the insidious, but prolific
+authors of human misery; they are born in the cradle with the infant;
+they descend into the grave with the aged. They begin, gentlemen, with
+life, but they do not cease with death. Behold, gentlemen," he
+continued, "the living and infallible proofs of my assertions,"
+(pointing to the long rows of crystal bottles, filled with multitudes of
+every kind of these vermin, of the most odious figures, which were
+marshalled in horrible array on each side of him), "these, gentlemen,
+are the worms which have been, by my art, extracted from my patients;
+many of them are, as you see, invisible to the naked eye;" upon which he
+held up a small phial of pure water. "Not a single disease is there, and
+not a single part of the human body which has not its appropriate and
+peculiar worm. There are those whose habitation is in the head;--there
+are those which dwell only in the soles of the feet;--there are those
+whose favourite haunts are in the seat of digestion;--there are those
+(happy worms) which will consent to dwell only in the bosoms of the
+fair. Even love," said he, assuming an air of most complacent softness,
+and casting his eye tenderly over the female part of his audience, "even
+love is not an exception; it is occasioned by the subtlest species of
+worms; which insinuate themselves into the roots of the heart, and play
+in peristaltic gambols round the seat of our affections. Painters,
+gentlemen, have distinguished the God of Love by the doves with which he
+is accompanied. He ought, more correctly, to have been depicted riding
+upon that worm, to which he owes his triumphs. Behold," said he, holding
+up a phial in which there was enclosed a worm of a light colour, "behold
+the fatal love-worm, from which I have lately had the happiness to
+deliver an interesting female of Marseilles!" The crowd were enchanted,
+purchased his bottles in abundance; and I heard afterwards in Aix, that
+by this ingenious juggling, he had contrived to amass a fortune
+sufficient to purchase a large estate, and to maintain, as we had
+witnessed, a cavalcade worthy of an ambassador.
+
+It is difficult to conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+characteristic vanity and scientific expressions, which are employed by
+the French workmen. The wig-makers, tailors, barbers, all consider their
+several trades as in some measure allied to science, and themselves as
+the only beings who understand it.--This they generally contrive to
+communicate to you with an air of mysterious importance. "Monsieur,"
+said a French barber to a friend of mine, an English sea captain who
+came in to be shaved; "you are an Englishman--sorry am I to inform you,
+but I do it with profound respect, that the science of shaving is
+altogether misunderstood in England. In their ignorance of its
+principles, they have neglected the great secret of our art. Sir," said
+he, coming closer up to him, and putting his hand to his own chin with
+an air of solemn communication, "I am credibly informed that in England
+they actually cut off the _epiderme_. Now, mon Dieu," continued he,
+turning up his eyes, and raising his soap-brush in an attitude of
+invocation, "who is there in France that will be ignorant that, in the
+destruction of this invaluable cuticle, the chin of the individual is
+tortured, and the first principles of our art degraded!"
+
+I have already hinted at the ignorance of the French, as a component
+part of their national credulity. This ignorance, as far as our
+opportunities of observation extended, in travelling across France,
+appeared to be deep and general; not only amongst the lower orders, but,
+on many subjects, pervading also the higher classes of the people. The
+only subjects upon which Napoleon considered that any thing like
+attempts at a national education should be made, were those connected
+with military affairs; mathematics, and the principles of mechanical
+philosophy.--Schools for these were generally founded in all the
+principal towns in the kingdom; it was there the younger officers of the
+army received their military education, and there were many public
+seminaries for public education, in addition to the Ecole Polytechnique
+in Paris, where the pupils were maintained and educated at the public
+expence. Every other branch of education, as tending to change the
+direction of the public mind, from military affairs into more pacific
+employments, was sedulously discouraged, and the consequence is seen, in
+that melancholy ignorance which is distinguishable in those generations
+of the French people which have sprung up since the revolution, and
+frequently even amongst the old nobility.[51] "Vous etes Ecossois?" said
+a French nobleman to me; 'Oui, Monsieur.' "Oh, que cela est drole." 'Et
+comment, Monsieur?' "C'est le pays de Napoleon. C'est un isle n'est ce
+pas?" 'Oh que non, Monsieur.' "Ma foi, je croyois qu'on l'appelloit
+_l'isle de Corse_." Whether, in the geographical confusion of this poor
+Marquis's brain, he had mistaken me for a Corsican, or actually believed
+that Napoleon was a Scotchman, is not very easy to determine.
+
+"You are an Englishwoman?" said the wife of a counsellor to one of the
+ladies of our party: "and I have been at London."--"And how did you like
+the people?" "Oh, they are very charmant; _bot_ I like better that other
+town near London,--Philadelphia."
+
+It is well known, that formerly in France the order of the Jesuits had
+acquired so pre-eminent an interest, as to insinuate themselves into
+almost every civil branch of the political government; and that, more
+especially, by the seminaries which they established generally
+throughout the kingdom, they had created a system of national education,
+in many respects highly beneficial to the community. As to the effects
+produced by this system, under the Jesuits, on the literature of France,
+very different opinions certainly may be entertained; and that
+artificial, and in many respects unnatural, style of poetry which has
+arisen, and still continues in France, may be perhaps attributed,
+amongst other causes, to that excessive passion for classical learning
+which was so religiously instilled, whereever the influence of these
+seminaries of the Jesuits extended. The utter abolition of this order is
+well known, and the consequence is, that where there existed formerly a
+general passion for that species of literature, which they cultivated,
+and which consisted in an intimate and critical knowledge of the
+languages of antiquity, and a taste for classical learning, as the only
+object of their imitation, there remains now nothing but a deep and
+general ignorance upon every object unconnected with military affairs;
+an ignorance which is the more fatal in its consequences, because it is
+founded upon contempt. It is difficult to say which of these conditions
+is the worst, the former or the latter. Among physicians and lawyers,
+however, you meet with many individuals, who, having been educated
+probably in foreign countries, or under the old _regime_, preserve still
+a passion for that which is so generally despised.
+
+In speaking of the education of the French people, it is impossible for
+any one who has at all mingled in French society, not to be particularly
+struck with what I before alluded to, the extreme ignorance and the
+limited education of the women, even amongst the higher orders. In a
+family of young ladies, you will but rarely meet with one who can
+accurately write her own language; and in general, in their cards of
+invitation, or in those letters of ceremony, which you will frequently
+receive, they will send you specimens of orthography, which, in their
+defiance of every established rule, are as amusing as Mrs Win. Jenkins'
+observations on that grave and useful gentleman, _Mr Apias Corkus_.
+Amongst the boys, any thing like a finished education was as little to
+be expected; the _furor militaris_ had latterly, in the public schools,
+proceeded to such a pitch, as to defy every attempt towards giving them
+a general, or in any respect a finished education. They steadily
+revolted against any thing which induced them to believe that their
+parents intended them for a pacific profession. Go into a French
+toy-shop, and you immediately discern the unambiguous symptoms of the
+military mania. Every thing there which might encourage in the infant
+any predilections for the pacific pursuits of an agricultural or
+commercial country, is religiously banished, and their places supplied
+by an infinite variety of military toys:--platoons of gens-d'armerie,
+troops of artillery, tents, waggons, camp equipage, all are arranged in
+imitative array upon the counter. The infant of the _grande_ nation
+becomes familiar, in his nurse's arms, with all the detail of the
+profession to which he is hereafter to belong; and when he opens his
+eyes for the first time, it is to rest them upon that terrible machinery
+of war, in the midst of which he is destined to close them for ever.
+
+In every country, and in every age of the world, the great and leading
+effects of tyranny, and of military despotism, will be discovered to
+have been the same. Nothing could be a stronger corroboration of this
+remark, than that singular and unexpected parallel which was
+immediately observed by one of our party who had been long in India,
+between the policy adopted by Napoleon, and that followed by the
+Brahmins in the East. The Brahmins religiously prohibit travelling; and
+the _sin_ of visiting foreign countries is particularized in their
+religious instructions. The free publication of the sentiments of
+travellers was never permitted under the late Emperor; and the severe
+regulations of the police made it extremely difficult for any Frenchman
+to travel. The object of both was the same, to prevent any mortifying
+and dangerous comparisons between the situation of their own, and the
+condition of foreign countries. The Brahmins made it a rule to check the
+progress of education, and to discourage the study of their _shasters_.
+As to these seminaries of education, unconnected with military subjects,
+Napoleon, if he did not dare actually to abolish them, at least threw
+over them the chilling influence of his imperial disapprobation; whilst,
+by that general inattention and impunity extended to vicious conduct,
+and the ridicule with which he regarded the clergy, he succeeded in
+rendering the scriptures contemptible. If, again, the condition of the
+French people was in many material respects analogous to the state of
+the Hindoos, the education of the women among them (the effect of the
+same causes operating in both countries), is completely Mussulman.
+Singing, dancing, and playing on the guitar, with a lighter species of
+ladies needle-work, forms the whole education of the French women; and
+this similarity of political treatment has produced a striking parallel
+even in the minuter parts of their national character.
+
+It is disagreeable to dwell upon the darker parts of their characters;
+even amongst those whose dispositions, it must be acknowledged, if
+formed in a purer country, and encouraged to develope themselves in all
+their native beauty, would have done honour to any nation. Such is the
+laxity of moral principle, that a woman of unimpeached character is but
+rarely to be found; and I can speak from my own observation and
+experience, that examples of criminal conduct, being of frequent
+occurrence and generally expected, have ceased to be the objects of
+reprobation, and are no longer the subjects of enquiry. What is more
+extraordinary, and shews a deeper sort of depravity, is the circumstance
+that such instances are entirely confined to the married women. These
+are, in their conversation and conduct, indulged, by a kind of general
+consent, with every possible freedom, and, by the extraordinary state
+of manners, are presented by their husbands with every possible facility
+they could desire. A husband and wife in France have generally separate
+apartments, or rather inhabit separate wings of their _hotel_. The
+lady's bed-room is appropriated to herself alone. Its walls would be
+esteemed polluted by any intrusion of the husband. It is there that, in
+an elegant dishabille, she receives the visits of her friends. It is
+secure against observation, or interruption of any kind whatever. It, in
+short, is the sacred palladium of female indiscretion. Much of this
+mischievous licence may, I think, be easily traced to the treatment of
+the younger and unmarried women. They are confined under a
+superintendance which is as rigorous, as the licence allowed to their
+mothers is unbounded. All those affections which begin in their early
+years to develope themselves--all those dispositions which are natural
+to youth, the innocent love of pleasure, and the passion for the society
+of those of their own age, are violently restrained by a system of
+confinement. In their early years, they are either banished by their
+parents to the seclusion of a convent, or are confined in their own
+houses, under the care of a set of severe and withered old women, whom
+they term _bonnes_. The consequence is, that the sullen influence of
+these unkindly beings is reflected upon their pupils, and that when,
+after their marriage, they are permitted to come forth from their
+prison, and mingle in general society, all the sweetness and gentleness
+of their original nature is gone for ever. But to return from this
+digression upon the ladies, other strong points of resemblance might
+easily be pointed out between the French and the native Indian
+character. The same low cunning, the same restless spirit of intrigue,
+the same gross flattery, the same astonishing command of countenance,
+and invariable politeness before strangers, the same complete sacrifice
+of every thing, character, principle, reputation, to the love of money;
+all these strong and melancholy features are clearly distinguishable in
+both. A servant who wishes for a place, a workman who is a candidate for
+employment, a shopkeeper who is anxious for customers, all invariably,
+as in India, pay money to some one who recommends them; and such is the
+poverty of the higher orders, that they compromise the meanness of the
+transaction, and receive these bribes with all the alacrity imaginable;
+and this system, which begins in these lesser transactions, is, in the
+disposal of offices under government, and the regulation of the
+patronage of the crown, the prime mover in France. If an office is to be
+disposed of, the constant phrase in France is, as in India, _il faut
+grassier la pate_. I was acquainted with two judges in France, who made
+not the least scruple to acknowledge that they owed their appointments
+to bribes, delicately administered. The bribes consisted in presents of
+_fruit_, presented in _a gold dish_. The similarity between the French
+and the inhabitants of eastern countries, on their hyperbolical
+compliments, had been observed by Montesquieu, in his Persian Letters,
+before the revolution; and by the effects of that lengthened scene of
+guilt and of confusion, as well as by the consequences of the military
+despotism under Napoleon, it has been increased to so great a degree, as
+to present a parallel more apt and striking than can be easily
+conceived.
+
+The excessive poverty of the higher orders, more particularly amongst
+the old nobility, has not only subjected them to this meanness of taking
+bribes, but has produced also amongst them a species of fawning
+servility of manner towards their inferiors; and this has, in its turn,
+in a great degree destroyed that high feeling of superior rank and
+superior responsibility, and that standard of amiable and noble
+manners, which are amongst the happiest consequences resulting from the
+institution of a hereditary nobility. The consequence of this servility
+amongst the _noblesse_, has inevitably produced a corresponding
+arrogance and insolence in the lower orders. One may see a French
+servant enter his master's room without taking off, or even touching his
+hat, engage in the conversation whilst he is mending the fire, throw
+himself upon a chair, and thus deliver the message he has been entrusted
+with, arrange his neckcloth at the glass, and dance out of the room,
+humming a tune. To an Englishman, this familiarity, from its excessive
+impudence, creates at first more amusement than irritation; but it
+becomes disgusting when we consider its consequences upon national
+manners, and that its causes are to be traced to national crime. I have
+seen a French gentleman take his grocer by the hand, and embracing him,
+hope for his company at supper. This submissive meanness towards their
+tradesmen, is of course much increased by their dread of the day of
+reckoning; and is therefore ultimately the consequence of their poverty.
+
+It happened that an English nobleman, who lately visited France, had
+shewn much kindness to one of the _ancienne noblesse_ during his stay in
+England. For upwards of a year, he had insisted on his living with him
+at his country seat. Upon the eve of leaving England for France, he
+wrote to his old acquaintance, desiring him to take suitable apartments
+for him in Paris. The Frenchman returned a most polite answer,
+expressing how much he felt himself hurt by the idea that his Lordship
+should dream of taking apartments, whilst his hotel was at his service.
+The English nobleman, accordingly, lived for two months at the hotel;
+but to his astonishment, upon taking his departure, Monsieur presented
+him with a regular bill, charging for every article, and including a
+very high rent for the lodgings. This is hardly to be credited by those
+unacquainted with the present condition of France; but I am induced to
+believe the story to be in every particular correct, as the authority
+was unquestionable. This excessive poverty amongst the higher classes,
+their being often unable, from their narrow circumstances, to support a
+house and separate establishment, their living in miserable lodgings
+when they are low in purse, snatching a spare meal at some cheap
+restaurateur's, and being unaccustomed to the comfort of regular meals
+in their own house, is the cause that they are all devotedly and
+generally attached to good eating, whenever they can get it, and that to
+such an excess, that a stranger, in attending a ball supper in France,
+or treating a French party to dinner, will be astonished at the
+perseverance of their palates, and the wonderful expedition with which
+both sexes contrive to travel through the various dishes on the table.
+The behaviour of Sancho at Camacho's wedding, when he rolled his
+delighted eyes over the assembled flesh-pots, is but a prototype of what
+I have witnessed equally in French men and French women upon these
+occasions.
+
+At a ball supper, where it is often impossible in England to prevail
+upon the ladies to taste a morsel, you may see these delicate females of
+France, regale themselves with dressed dishes, swallow, with incredible
+avidity, repeated bowls of strong soup, and after a short interval, sit
+down to potations of hot punch, strong enough to admit of being set on
+fire. Nothing can certainly be more destructive of all ideas of feminine
+delicacy, than to see a beautiful woman with one of these midnight bowls
+burning before her, and when her complexion is rendered livid by its
+flames, looking through this medium like some unknown but voracious
+inhabitant of another world.
+
+An English family of our acquaintance, who had settled at Aix, and who
+wished to see company, imagined, naturally, that it would be necessary
+to go through all the tedious process of preliminary introductions,
+which are necessary in England. A French friend was consulted upon the
+subject, and his advice was as simple as it was effectual: [52]"Donnez
+un souper, cela fera courir tout le monde." Sometime after this,
+happening to be conversing with the same gentleman upon this
+subject:[53] "Soyez bien sur, Monsieur, (said he), que si le diable
+donne a _souper, tout le monde soupera dans l'enfers_."
+
+Versatility, that ruling feature in the French character, ought not to
+be forgotten. They have of late been so accustomed to change, that
+change has become not only natural, but, one would imagine, in some
+measure necessary to their happiness. They change their leaders and
+their sovereigns, with as much apparent ease as they do their fashions.
+On the slightest new impulse, they change their thoughts, their oaths,
+their love, their hatred. In this particular, a French mob is the most
+remarkable thing in the world; they cannot exist without some favourite
+yell, some particular watch-word of the day, or rather of the hour. One
+day it is, [54]"_A bas le tyran! A bas les soldats!_" the next it is
+"_Vive l'Empereur! Vivent les Marchaux! Vive l'armée!_" or it is, "_Vive
+Louis le desiré! Vive le fils de bon Henri!_" and in the next breath,
+"_Vive le nation! Point de loix foedaux! Point des rois! Point de
+noblesse!_" then, "_Point des droits reunis! Point de conscriptions!_"
+and during the desolating æra of the revolution, their favourite cry
+presented an exact picture of the character of the nation--of the same
+nation, which, in these dark days of continual horror, could yet amuse,
+itself by an exhibition of dancing-dogs, under the blood-dropping stage
+of the guillotine; their cry was then, [55]"_Vive la Mort_!" Utterly
+inattentive to these inconsistencies, the French people continue
+willingly to cry out whatever rallying word may be given to them by
+those agents who, working in secret, according to the ruling authorities
+and the prevailing politics of the day, are employed to excite them. The
+calamitous consequence of this mean and thoughtless principle is, that
+they submit themselves to the regulation of all the spies and police
+emissaries who, as the pensioned menials pf government, are continually
+insinuating themselves amongst them. Louis XVIII., unaccustomed to this
+system, from his long residence in England, has employed fewer spies
+than Napoleon, and the consequence has been, that the cry of Vive le Roi
+has never been re-echoed with that same high-sounding, though hollow
+enthusiasm, with which they vociferated Vive l'Empereur. An instance of
+the pliability of a French mob occurred a short time before our coming
+to Aix: When Napoleon, on his way to Elba, passed through Moulines, his
+carriage having halted at one of the inns, was immediately surrounded by
+a mob, amongst whom a cry of Vive l'Empereur was instantly raised. The
+Emperor's servants began laughing, and some one amongst, the mob
+imagining it to be in derision, exclaimed, with manifest disappointment,
+"Eh bien, Messieurs, que voulez vous donc; mais allons mes amis! crions
+tous Vive le Roi;" and having once received this new impulse, they not
+only raised, with one consent, a shout of Vive le Roi, but next moment,
+by their menaces, compelled Napoleon, who began to tremble for his
+person, to join in the cry of loyalty. Such was the miserable situation
+of that man, who, in the words of Augereau, [56]"apres avoir immolé des
+millions des victimes, n'a su mourir en soldat;" and such the treatment
+of a French mob to one whose name, the moment before, they had extolled
+with all the symptoms of the most devoted enthusiasm.
+
+    J'ai vu l'impie, adorè sur le terre
+    Pareil au cedre, il cachoit dans le cieux
+              Son front audacieux.
+    Il sembloit a son grè gouverner la tonnere,
+    Fouler aux pieds ses enemis vaincus,
+    Je ne fis que passer, il a'etoit deja plus.
+
+Amidst all their misfortunes, the French people, and more especially the
+peasantry, have contrived to preserve their characteristic gaiety. They
+are still, without, doubt, the most cheerful people in Europe, the least
+liable to any thing like continued depression, and the most easily
+amused by trifles. If we except the peasantry, whose situation is
+comparatively comfortable, they are subject to continual deprivations.
+They are wretchedly poor, and driven by this poverty to meannesses which
+they would in other situations despise. Their labour is frequently
+demanded where refusal is impossible, and obedience attended with no
+remuneration. They themselves are hurried away, if young, to fill up the
+miserable quotas of the conscription; torn from the happiest scenes of
+their youth, and banished from every object of their affection. If old,
+they are doomed to pass their solitary years uncomforted, and
+unsupported. The hopes of their age may have fallen, but amidst all this
+complicated misery, it is indeed most wonderful that they yet continue
+to be cheerful. The accustomed gaiety of their spirits will not even
+then desert them; and meeting with a stranger who enters into
+conversation with them, or seated with a few friends at a caffé, they
+will sip their liqueurs, smoke their segars, and talk with enthusiasm
+of the triumphs and glory of the _grande nation_, although these
+triumphs may have given the fatal blow to all that constituted their
+happiness, and in this glory they may see the graves of their children.
+This is not patriotism: It is a far lower principle. It is produced by
+national pride, vanity, thoughtlessness, a contempt or ignorance of
+domestic happiness, and all this allied to an unconquerable levity and
+heartlessness of disposition. It is not therefore that severe but noble
+principle, the silent offspring between thought and sorrow, which
+soothes at least where it cannot cure, and alleviates the acuteness of
+individual sufferings, by the consolation that our friends have fallen
+in the courageous execution of their duty. It has in its composition
+none of those higher feelings, but is more an instinct, and one too of a
+shallow and degrading nature, than any thing like a steady and
+regulating moral principle.
+
+This, however, which makes them unconscious to any thing like
+unhappiness, renders them, under imprisonment, banishment, and
+deprivation, more able to endure the hardships and reverses of war than
+any other troops.
+
+It is perhaps an improper word in speaking of imprisonment and
+banishment to a Frenchman, to say they endure it better; the truth is,
+they do not feel it so acutely, and the reason is, that the military,
+owing to their restless and wandering life, are comparatively less
+attached than other troops to their native country. They suffer better,
+because they feel less.
+
+In courage the English soldiers certainly equal them, and in physical
+strength they far surpass them; but the mind of a Frenchman is, for hard
+service, far better constituted than that of an Englishman. Nothing, it
+is well known, is so difficult as to rally an English force after any
+thing approaching even to a defeat. This is by no means the case with
+the French, and the history of the last campaign, preceding the
+restoration of the Borbons, contains a detailed account of many
+successive' defeats, after which the French army rallied and fought as
+undauntedly as before; and during the last war there was not perhaps a
+single battle contended with more determination than that of Toulouse.
+
+In regard to the lower orders of the peasantry, it is amongst them alone
+that we can yet distinctly discern the last traces of the ancient French
+character. They are certainly, from the sale of the great landed estates
+at the revolution, (which, divided into small farms, were bought by the
+lower orders,) for the most part comparatively in a rich and independent
+situation; and poverty is far more generally felt by the higher classes
+of the nation, than by the regular peasantry of the country. Yet with
+all this, they have become neither insolent nor haughty to their
+superiors; and you will meet at this day with more real unsophisticated
+politeness, and more active civility amongst the present French
+peasantry, than is to be found among the nobility or the soldiery of the
+nation.
+
+It is to them alone that the hopes of the revival of the French nation
+must ultimately turn. It is from this quarter that France, if she is
+ever to possess them, must alone derive those pacific energies, which,
+whilst they may render her as a nation less generally terrible, will yet
+cause her to be more individually happy.
+
+In every country, we must regard the peasantry as the sinews and stamina
+of the state. They are, in every respect, to the nation what the heart
+is to the individual; the centre from which health, energy and vigour
+must be imparted to the remotest portions of the political body. If such
+is the rank held by the peasantry _in all countries_, much more
+important: is the station which they at present fill in _France_, and
+far more momentous (owing to the circumstances in which that kingdom now
+stands), are the duties which they owe to their country. It is there
+alone that any sufficient antidote can be found for that political
+misery, occasioned by such a course of unprincipled national triumphs,
+as had been so long the boast of France, and which we have so lately
+closed in all the splendour of legitimate victory. It is to them that
+the court must look for the restoration of that moral principle, which,
+under the administration of the late Emperor, it so thoroughly despised:
+It is to them that the army must look for the restoration of those high
+feelings of military honour, which we shall seek in vain in the present
+soldiery of France: It is from them that the great landed proprietors
+and the country gentlemen (if that honourable name is ever again to be
+realised in France), must learn to sacrifice their schemes of individual
+enjoyment, and to renounce the dissipations of the capital for the
+severer duties which await them in the interior of the kingdom.
+
+I have before mentioned that civility and politeness which is still so
+characteristic of the peasantry of the kingdom. In addition to this,
+from every thing I could observe, they appeared to be really
+comfortable, and their invariable cheerfulness was accompanied by that
+flow of easy unpremeditated mirth, which gave us the impression that
+they were really happy. In the streets of Paris, and in the different
+ranks of society in the capital, you see, I think, the same outward
+symptoms of happiness; but, in many instances, their high sounding
+expressions of joy appear more like the wish to be happy, than the sober
+possession of happiness. The soldiery, in particular, seem, by their
+loud and repeated sallies, to have embraced a desperate kind of plan, of
+actually roaring themselves into forgetfulness; whereas the peasantry of
+the kingdom, after having passed the day in the labour of their fields
+or vineyards, dispersing in little troops through their village, the old
+to converse over the stories of their youth, the young dancing to the
+pipe and tabor, or singing in little groupes, arranged on the green
+seats under their orchard trees, appear, without effort, to sink into
+that enviable state of unforced enjoyment, which falls upon their minds
+as easily and calmly as the sleep of Heaven upon their eyelids.
+
+Amongst the French, dancing is that strong and prevailing passion which
+is found in every rank in society, which is confined to no sex, nor
+age, nor figure, but is universally disseminated throughout every
+portion of the kingdom; from the cottage to the court, from the cradle
+to the grave, the French invariably dance when they can seize an
+opportunity. Nay, the older the individual, the more vigorous seems to
+be the passion. Wrinkles may furrow the face, but lassitude never
+attacks the limbs.
+
+It is their singular perseverance in this favourite pursuit which
+renders a French ball to a stranger more than commonly ludicrous. In
+England, when the company begins to assemble, you are delighted with the
+troops of young and blooming girls, who throng into the dancing room,
+with faces beaming with the desire, and forms bounding with the
+anticipation of pleasure. In France, you must conceive the room to be
+superbly lighted up, and the walls covered with large mirrors, which, in
+their indefinite multiplication, suffer nothing, however ludicrous, to
+escape them. The folding doors slowly open, and there begins to hobble
+in, (as quick as their advanced years will permit them,) unnumbered
+forms of aged ladies and gentlemen, intermixed with some possessing
+certainly the firmer step of middle life, but few or none who dare
+pretend to the activity of youth. On one side comes the old _Marquis_,
+dressed in the extremity of the fashion, every ruffle replete with
+effect, and not a curl but what he would tremble to remove, stepping,
+with the most finished complacency, at the side of some antiquated dame
+of sixty, who minces and rustles at his side in the costume of sixteen.
+Previous to the dancing, it is indeed ridiculous to observe the series
+of silent tendernesses, the sly looks and fascinating glances with which
+these old worthies entertain each other. Meanwhile the music strikes up,
+and the floor is instantly covered with waltzers. It is well known, that
+the waltz is a dance, above all others, requiring grace and youth, and
+activity in those who perform it. Nothing, therefore, to a stranger, can
+be more entertaining, than the sight of those motley and aged couples,
+who, with a desperate resolution, stand up to bid defiance to the
+warnings of nature; and who, after they have first swallowed a tumbler
+of punch, (which is their constant practice,) begin to reel round with
+the waltzers, putting you in mind of Miss Edgeworth's celebrated Irish
+horse, _Knockegroghery_, who needed to have porter poured down his
+throat, and to be warmed in his harness, before he could achieve any
+thing like continued motion. In England, few ladies, unless those who
+are extremely young, ever dream of dancing after their marriage. In
+France, the young ladies before marriage are seldom admitted into
+company; after marriage, therefore, their gaiety instantly commences,
+and continues literally until the total failure of the physical powers
+of nature puts an end to the ability, though not to the love of
+pleasure. Any thing, therefore, it may be well believed, which comes
+between the French ladies and this mania for dancing, produces no
+ordinary effect. One of our party observed at a ball, a French lady of
+quality in the deepest mourning. On coming up to her, she remarked to
+the English lady, with a face of much melancholy, that her situation was
+indeed deplorable. "Look at me," said she, "these are the weeds for my
+mother, who has only been two months dead. Do you see these odious black
+gloves; they will not permit me to join in your amusements; but oh! how
+the heart dances, when the feet can't." "Come, come," said another
+female waltzer of fifty, whose round little body we had traced at
+intervals, rolling and pirouetting about the room; "come, we forget that
+the fast of Ash Wednesday begins at twelve. We may sup well before
+twelve, but not a morsel after it. We have but one short hour to eat,
+but we may dance, you know, all night."
+
+By our acquaintance with the best society in Aix, we have enjoyed no
+unfavourable opportunity of forming an idea of the present condition of
+society in the south of France. One of the first circumstances which we
+all remarked, and which has probably occurred to most who have
+associated in French society, was the wide range over which the titles
+of nobility extended. We indeed heard, that at Aix, where we resided,
+and at Toulouse, there were to be found more of the old nobility than in
+any other parts of France. These towns were, on account of the cheapness
+of living, the depôts of the emigrant gentlemen whose fortunes had been
+reduced by the revolution, the receptacles of the ancient aristocracy of
+France. Yet even making every allowance for this circumstance, when we
+recollect the appearance and manners of many who were dignified by the
+titles of Marquis, Counts and Barons, it was impossible not to feel
+that, when compared with our own country, there was a kind of
+profanation of the aristocracy; and I should not be much surprised, if
+it was afterwards discovered, by some who would take the pains to
+investigate the subject narrowly, that in these remote parts of the
+kingdom, there subsisted a species of silent understood compact, by
+which the parties agreed, that if the one was dignified by his friends
+with the title of _Marquis_, he would in his turn make no scruple to
+favour the other with the appellation of _Count_. Certainly, when
+requested to explain the principles upon which titles of dignity
+descended, the account given by these noblemen themselves was quite
+unsatisfactory, and nearly unintelligible. The different orders also of
+knighthood, appeared to us to be very widely extended. The Chevaliers de
+St Louis were literally swarming. You could scarcely enter a shop, where
+you did not instantly discover one or more of these gentry sitting on
+the counter, conversing with the shopkeeper, or flirting with his
+daughter or wife. In their dress and general appearance in the forenoon,
+there appeared to be an unlimited latitude of shabbiness allowed both to
+the ladies and gentlemen; while in the evening, on the contrary, whether
+at home or abroad, we found them uniformly handsomely, and, making
+allowance for the difference of national costume, often elegantly drest.
+Nothing, indeed, could be more singular than the contrast between the
+extraordinary apparel of the same ladies (and those ladies of quality,
+marchionesses and countesses) whom we had visited at their own houses
+in the forenoon, and their appearance, when we met them in the evening,
+at the public concerts or private parties given at Aix. In the morning,
+you will find them receiving visits in their bed-rooms in the most
+complete dishabille; their night-cap not removed, a little bed-gown
+thrown carelessly over them; their hair in papillots, and their handsome
+ancles covered by coarse list slippers. In the evening, the _bonnet de
+nuit_ is discarded, and a snow-white plume of feathers waves upon its
+former foundation; the little bed-gown is thrown aside, and a superb
+robe of satin rustles and glitters in its stead; the head, instead of
+being bristled with papillots, is clothed with the most luxuriant curls;
+and the unrivalled foot and ancle display at once, in the beauty of
+their shape and the elegance of their decoration, the bounty of nature
+and the unwearied assiduity of nature's assistant journeymen--the
+shoemakers. The style of French parties is certainly very dissimilar to
+those we are accustomed to in our own country. And this difference is
+easily to be traced to the remarkable differences in the character of
+the two nations. To the prevailing influence of the fancy, the power of
+imagination and the love of amusement amongst the French, and to those
+ideas of sober sense, that spirit of phlegmatic indifference, and the
+engrossing influence of public employments, which are remarkable in the
+English nation. During our residence in the south, we were invited by
+the Countess de R---- to a ball, which, she told us, was given in honour
+of her son's birth-day. We went accordingly, and were first received in
+the card-rooms, which we found brilliantly lighted and decorated, and
+full of company. We were then conducted into another handsome apartment
+fitted up as a theatre. The curtain rose, and the young Count de R----
+tripped lightly from behind the scenes, with the most complete
+self-possession, and at the same time, with great elegance, begun a
+little address to the audience, apologising for his inability to amuse
+them as he could have wished, and concluded his address, by singing,
+with a great deal of action, two French songs. He then skipped nimbly
+off the stage and returned, leading in the principal actress at the
+theatre here, M. de----. They performed together a little dramatic
+interlude composed for the occasion; the company then adjourned into the
+card-rooms, and the evening concluded by a ball. At another private
+party we attended when the company were assembled; a folding door flew
+open, and a party of ladies and gentlemen, fantastically drest as
+shepherds and shepherdesses, flew into the room, and to our great
+amusement, began acting with their pipes and crooks and garlands, and
+all the paraphernalia of pastoral life, those employments of rural
+labour, or scenes of rustic courtship, which, in their public
+amusements, we have before remarked as peculiar favourites with the
+French people.
+
+If, as we have above remarked, for the hopes of the restoration of
+truth, and honour, and principle, in France, we must turn to the lower
+orders, it will not, I trust, be thought too trifling to observe, that
+any thing like real excellence in music, another favourite national
+propensity, is, as far as we could observe, to be found in the peasantry
+alone. The music of the capital, the modern compositions performed at
+the opera, the prevailing songs of the day, are all noisy, unmeaning,
+unharmonious (I speak, of course, merely from personal feeling, and with
+deference to those better able to form an opinion upon the subject;) but
+it is impossible to hear the unharmonious crash which proceeds from the
+orchestra of the opera, without immediately recollecting the celebrated
+pun of Rosseau: "Pour l'Academie de musique, certainement il fait le
+plus du bruit du monde." On the other hand, it is amongst the peasantry
+alone that you now find the ancient music of France. Those airs which
+are so deeply associated with all the glory and gallantry of the old
+monarchy; those songs of olden times, which were chanted by the
+wandering Troubadours, as they returned from foreign wars to their
+native vallies, and whose simple melody recalls the days of chivalry in
+which they arose: these, and all others of the same æra, which once
+composed in truth the national music of this great people, are no longer
+to be found amongst the higher classes of the community. But they still
+exist among the peasantry. The vine-dresser, as he begins, with the
+rising sun, his labours in the vineyards; or the poor muleteer, as he
+drives his cattle to the water, will chant, as he goes along, those
+ancient airs, which, in all their native simplicity, he has heard from
+his fathers; and which, in other days, have echoed through the halls of
+feudal pride, or have been sung in the bowers of listening beauty. Of
+the prevalence of this refined taste in poetry among the lower orders of
+the peasantry, the following fragment of an old ballad, still very
+commonly sung to the ancient Troubadour air by the peasantry of
+Provence, may be given as a familiar instance:
+
+
+LE TROUBADOUR.
+
+    Un gentil Troubadour
+    Qui chant et fait la guerre,
+    Revennit chez son Pere
+    Revant a son amour.
+    Gages de sa valeur
+    Suspendus en echarpe,
+    Son epée et sa harpe
+    Croisaient sur son coeur.
+
+    Il rencontre en chemin
+    Pelerine jolie
+    Qui voyage et qui prie
+    Un rosaire a la main,
+    Colerette aux longs plies
+    Gouvre sa fine taille,
+    Et grande chapeau de paille
+    Cache son front divin.
+
+    "Ah! gentil Troubadour,
+    Si tu reviens fidele,
+    Chant un couplet pour celle
+    Qui benit ton retour."
+    "Pardonnez mon refus,
+    Pelerine jolie,
+    Sans avoir vu m'amie,
+    Je ne chanterai plus."
+
+    "Ne la revois tu pas--
+    Oh Troubadour fidele,
+    Regarde la--C'est elle,
+    Ouvre lui donc tes bras.
+    Priant pour notre amour
+    J'allois en pelerine
+    A la vierge divine
+    Demander son secours."
+
+I believe no apology need be made for subjoining here, another very
+favourite song in the French army: One of our party heard it sung by a
+body of French soldiers, who were on their return to their homes, from
+the campaign of Moscow.
+
+
+LA CENTINELLE.
+
+    L'Astre de nuit dans son paisible eclat
+    Lanca ses feux sur les tentes de la France,
+    Non loin de camp un jeune et beau soldat
+    Ainsi chantoit appuyè sur sa lance.
+
+    "Allez, volez, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes voeux vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    Que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie.
+
+    L'Astre de jour r'animera le combat,
+    Demain il faut signaler ma valence;
+    Dans la victoire on trouve le trepas,
+    Mais si je meura an coté de ma lance,--
+
+    Volez encore, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes regrets vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+        Que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie."
+
+It is certainly productive of no common feelings, when, in travelling
+into the interior of the country, you find these beautiful songs, so
+much despised in the metropolis! of the nation, still lingering in their
+native vallies, and shedding their retiring sweetness over those scenes
+to which they owed their birth.
+
+How much is it to be desired that some man of genius, some lover of the
+real glory of his country, would collect, with religious hand, these
+scattered flowers, which are so fast sinking into decay, and again raise
+into general estimation the beautiful and forgotten music of his native
+land.
+
+In a discussion upon French manners, and the present condition of French
+society, it is impossible but that one great and leading observation
+must almost immediately present itself, and the truth of which, on
+whatever side, or to whatever class of society you may turn, becomes
+only the more apparent as you take the longer time to consider it; this
+is, that the French _carry on every thing in public_. That every thing,
+whether it is connected with business or with pleasure, whether it
+concerns the more serious affair of political government, or the pursuit
+of science, or the cultivation of art, or whether it is allied only to a
+taste for society, to the gratification of individual enjoyment, to the
+passing occupations of the day, or the pleasures of the evening--all, in
+short, either of serious, or of lighter nature, is open and public. It
+is carried on abroad, where every eye may see, and every ear may listen.
+Every one who has visited France since the revolution must make this
+remark. The first thing that strikes a stranger is, that a Frenchman has
+_no home_: He lives in the middle of the public; he breakfasts at a
+caffé; his wife and family generally do the same. During the day, he
+perhaps debates in the Corps Legislatif, or sleeps over the essays in
+the Academie des Sciences, or takes snuff under the Apollo, or talks of
+the fashions of the Nouvelle Cour, at the side of the Venus de Medicis,
+or varies the scene by feeding the bears in the Jardin des Plantes. He
+then dines abroad at a restaurateur's. His wife either is there with
+him, or perhaps she prefers a different house, and frequents it alone.
+His sons and daughters are left to manage matters as they best can. The
+sons, therefore, frequent their favourite caffés, whilst the daughters
+remain confined under the care of their _bonnes_ or _duennas_. In the
+evening he strolls about the Palais, joins some friend or another, with
+whom he takes his caffé, and sips his liqueurs in the Salon de Paix or
+Milles Colonnes; he then adjourns to the opera, where, for two hours, he
+will twist himself into all the appropriate contortions of admiration,
+and vent his joy, in the strangest curses of delight, the moment that
+Bigottini makes her appearance upon the stage; and, having thus played
+those many parts which compose his motley day, he will return at night
+to his own lodging, perfectly happy with the manner he has employed it,
+and ready, next morning, to recommence, with recruited alacrity, the
+same round of heterogeneous enjoyment. Such is, in fact, an epitome of
+the life of all Frenchmen, who are not either bourgeoise, employed
+constantly in their shops during the day, or engaged in the civil or
+military avocations--of those who are in the same situation in France,
+as our gentlemen of independent fortune in England. Another peculiarity
+is, that the Frenchmen of the present day are not only always abroad, in
+the midst _of the public_, but that they invariably flock from the
+interior of the kingdom into Paris, and there engage in those public
+exhibitions, and bustle about in that endless routine of business or
+pleasure, which is passing in the capital. The French nobility, and the
+men of property who still remain in the kingdom, invariably spend their
+lives in Paris. Their whole joy consists la exhibiting themselves in
+public in the capital. Their magnificent chateaus, their parks, their
+woods and fields, and their ancient gardens, decorated by the taste, and
+often cultivated by the hands of their fathers, are allowed to fall into
+unpitied ruin. If they retire for a few weeks to their country seat, it
+is only to collect the rents from their neglected peasantry, to curse
+themselves for being condemned to the _triste sejour_ of their paternal
+estate; and, after having thus replenished their coffers, to dive again
+from their native woods, with renewed strength, into all the publicity
+and dissipation of the capital. This was not always the state of things
+in France. Previous to, and during the reign of Henry IV. the manners,
+the society, and the mode of life of the nobility and gentlemen of the
+kingdom, were undoubtedly different The country was not then deserted
+for the town; the industry of the peasantry was exerted under the
+immediate eye of the proprietor; and his happiness formed, we may
+believe, no inferior object in the mind of his master; If we look at
+the domestic memoirs which describe the condition of France in these
+ancient days, we shall find that even from the early age of Francis I.
+till the commencement of the political administration of Richelieu, the
+situation of this country presented a very different picture; and that
+the lives of the country gentlemen were passed in a very opposite manner
+from that unnatural state of the kingdom to which we have above alluded.
+Even the condition of the interior of the kingdom, as it is now seen,
+points to this happier state of things. Their chateaus, which are now
+deserted,--their silent chambers, with tarnished gilding and decaying
+tapestry, remind us of the days when the old nobleman was proud to spend
+his income on the decoration and improvement of his property; the
+library, on whose walls we see the family pictures, in those hunting and
+shooting dresses which tell of the healthier exercises of a country
+retirement; whilst on the shelves, there sleeps undisturbed the
+forgotten literature of the Augustan age of France--all this evidently
+shows, that there was once, at least, to be found in the interior of the
+kingdom, another and a different state of things. In the essays of
+Montaigne, the private life of a French gentleman is admirably
+depicted. His days appear to have been divided between his family, his
+library, and his estate. A French nobleman lived then happy in the seat
+of his ancestors. His family grew up around him; and he probably visited
+the town as rarely as the present nobility do the country,--the
+education of his children,--the care of his peasantry,--the rural
+labours of planting and gardening,--the sports of the country,--the
+_grandes chasses_ which he held in his park, surrounded by troops of
+servants who had been born on his estate, and who evinced their
+affection by initiating the young heir into all the mysteries of the
+chase, the enjoyment of the society of his friends and neighbours; all
+these varied occupations filled up the happy measure of his useful and
+enviable existence. The life of the country proprietor in these older
+days of France, assimilated, in short, in a great degree to the present
+manner of life amongst the same classes which is still observable in
+England.
+
+It is impossible to conceive any thing more striking than the difference
+between this picture of a French chateau in these older days, and the
+condition in which you find them at the present moment. We once visited
+the chateau of one of the principal noblemen in Provence; and he
+himself had the politeness to accompany us. The situation of the castle
+was perfectly beautiful; but on coming nearer, every thing showed that
+it was completely neglected. The different rooms, which were once
+superb, were now bare and unfurnished. The walks through the park, the
+seats and temples in the woods, and the superb gardens, were speedily
+going to decay. The surface of his ponds, in the midst of which the
+fountains still played, were covered with weeds, and the rank grass was
+waving round the bases of the marble statues, which were placed at the
+termination of the green alleys; every thing showed the riches, the
+care, and the taste of a former generation, and the carelessness, and
+neglect of the present. On remonstrating with the proprietor, he
+defended himself by telling us how lonely he should feel at such a
+distance from Paris: "_C'est toujours ici (said he), un triste sejour_."
+A collation was served up, and after this, being in want of amusement,
+he opened a closet in the corner of the room, and discovered to us, in
+its recess, a vast variety of toys, which he began to exhibit to the
+ladies, telling us, "that when forced to live in the country, he
+diverted his solitary hours with these entertaining little affairs."
+
+Nothing certainly can be more striking than this contrast between the
+modern and ancient life of a French proprietor or nobleman; and it is a
+question which must necessarily arise in the mind of every one, who has
+observed this remarkable difference, what are the causes to which so
+great a change is owing? Perhaps, if we look into it, this extraordinary
+change will be found to have arisen chiefly out of the vigorous, but
+dangerous policy of that age, when, under the administration of
+Richelieu, the power of the sovereign rose upon the ruins of the
+aristocracy--when the institution of standing armies first began to be
+systematically followed--and when, by the perfection of their police,
+and that vilest of all inventions, their espionage, the comfort, the
+security, and the confidence of society was destroyed, by the secret
+influence of these poisonous and pensioned menials of government. In the
+successful accomplishment of these three great objects, was involved the
+destruction of that older state of France, which was to be seen under
+Henry III. and IV. The schemes by which Richelieu succeeded in drawing
+the nobility from the interior of the country to Paris, the style of
+splendid living, sumptuous expences, and magnificent entertainments
+which he introduced, produced two unhappy effects; it removed them from
+their country seats, and forced them at the same time to drain their
+estates, in order to defray their increasing expences in the capital. It
+made them dependent in a great measure upon the crown; and thus tied
+them down to Paris. On the other hand, by what has been termed his
+_admirable_ police, by his encouragement to all informers, by the
+jealousy of any thing like private intercourse, he rendered the
+retirement of their homes, the fire-side of their families, instead of
+that sacred spot, around which was once seated all the charities of
+life, the very center of all that was hollow, gloomy, and suspicious. It
+was in this manner that the French seem actually to have been driven
+from the society of their families, to seek a kind of desperate solitude
+in public; and that which was at first a necessity, has, in the progress
+of time, become an established habit. But I have to apologise for
+introducing, in a chapter of this light nature, and that perhaps in too
+strong language, these vague conjectures upon so serious a subject as
+this change in the condition of French society.
+
+One necessary effect of the taste for publicity, formerly mentioned, is,
+that in France every thing is in some way or other attempted to be made
+a _spectacle_; and this favourite word itself has gradually grown into
+such universal usage, that it has acquired such power over the minds of
+all classes of the people, as to be hardly ever out of their mouths.
+Whatever they are describing, be it grave or gay, serious or ludicrous,
+a comedy or a tragedy, a scene in the city or in the country; in short,
+every thing, of whatever nature or character it may chance to be, which
+is seen in public, is included under this all-comprehensive term; and
+the very highest praise which can be given it, is, "Ah Monsieur, c'est
+un _vrai_ spectacle. C'est un spectacle tout a _fait superbe_." It is
+this taste for spectacles, this inordinate passion for every thing
+producing _effect_, every thing which can add in this manner to what
+they conceive ought to be the necessary arrangement in all public
+exhibitions, which has, in many of these exhibitions, completely
+destroyed all the deeper feelings which they would otherwise naturally
+be calculated to produce. It is this taste which has created that
+dreadful and disgusting anomaly in national antiquities, the Museé des
+Monumens François, which has mangled and dilapidated the monuments of
+the greatest men, and the memorials of the proudest days of France, to
+produce in Paris a spectacle worthy of the _grande nation_. It is this
+same taste, which, in that solemn commemoration of the death of their
+king, the _service solennel_ for Louis XVI. contrived to introduce a
+species of affected parade,--a detailed and theatrical sort of grief,--a
+kind of meretricious mummery of sorrow, which banished all the feelings,
+and almost completely destroyed the impression which such a scene in any
+other country would inevitably have produced. Any thing, it may be
+easily imagined, which gratifies this general taste for public
+exhibitions, and any thing which is fitted to increase their effect, is
+greeted by the French with the highest applause. One would have
+imagined, that the first appearance of Lord Wellington in the French
+opera, would, to most Frenchmen, have been a circumstance certainly not
+to make an exhibition of: Very far from it--The presence of Lord
+Wellington added greatly to the general effect of the spectacle. This
+was all the French thought of; and he was received, if possible, with
+more enthusiastic applause, and more reiterated greetings than the royal
+family of France. Would a French conqueror have met with the same
+reception in the opera at London?
+
+When the reviews of the Russian troops were daily occurring in the Champ
+de Mars, an anxiety to examine the state of their discipline, and the
+general condition of their army, induced us punctually to attend them.
+What was our astonishment, when we saw _several_ barouches full of
+French ladies, seemingly taking the greatest delight in superintending
+the manoeuvres of the very men who had conquered the armies, and occupied
+the capital of their country; and delighted with the attentions which
+were paid them by the different Russian officers who had led them to
+victory?
+
+But there is yet another exhibition in Paris, which is at once the most
+singular in its nature, and which shows, in the very strongest light,
+this general deep-set passion in the French, for the creation of what
+they imagine the necessary _effect_ which ought to be attended to in
+every thing which is displayed in public, I mean that extraordinary
+exhibition which they term the Catacombs. These catacombs are large
+subterraneous excavations, which stretch themselves to a great extent
+under Paris; and which were originally the quarries which furnished the
+stones for building the greater part of that capital. You arrive at them
+by descending, by torch light, a narrow winding stair, which strikes
+perpendicularly into the bosom of the earth; and which, although its
+height is not above 70 feet, leads you to a landing-place, so dark and
+dismal, that it might be as well in the centre of the earth as so near
+its surface. After walking for a considerable time through different
+obscure subterranean streets, you arrive at the great stone gate of the
+catacombs, above which you can read by the light of the torches, "_The
+Habitation of the Dead._" On entering, you find yourself in a dark wide
+hall, supported by broad stone pillars, with a low arched roof, the
+further end of which is hid in complete obscurity; but the walls of
+which, (as they are illuminated by the livid and feeble gleam of the
+torches), are discovered to be completely formed of human bones. All
+this, as far as I have yet described,--- the subterranean streets which
+you traverse,--the dark gate of the great hall, over which you read the
+simple but solemn inscription,--and the gloom and silence of the
+chambers, whose walls you discover to be furnished in this terrible
+manner, is fitted to produce a most deep and powerful effect. To find
+yourself the only living being, surrounded on every side by the dead; to
+be the only thing that possesses the consciousness of existence, while
+millions of those who have once _been_ as you _are_--millions of all
+ages, from the infant who has just looked in upon this world, in its
+innocent road to heaven, to the aged, who has fallen in the fullness of
+years;--and the young, the gay, and the beautiful of former centuries,
+lie all cold and silent around you:--it is impossible that these deep
+and united feelings should not powerfully affect the mind,--should not
+lead it to rivet its thoughts upon that last scene, which all are to act
+alone, and where, in the cold and unconscious company of the dead, we
+are here destined to "end the strange, eventful history" of our nature:
+But unfortunately, the guide, who now approaches you, insists upon your
+examining the details, which he conceives it is his duty to point out;
+and it is then that you discover, that this prevailing taste for
+producing effect, this love of the arrangements necessary to complete
+the _spectacle_, has invaded even this sacred receptacle. The ornaments
+which he points out, and which are curiously framed of the whitest and
+most polished bones; little altars which are built of the same materials
+in the corners of the chambers, and crowned with what the artists have
+imagined the handsomest skulls; and the frequent poetical quotations,
+which, upon a nearer view, you discern upon the walls;--all this, in the
+very worst style of French taste, evinces, that the same unhallowed
+hands which had dared to violate the monuments of their heroes, have not
+scrupled to intrude their presumptuous and miserable efforts, even into
+the humbler sanctuary allotted to the dead.
+
+I have above described the singular, and, to a stranger, most
+entertaining scenes which take place at the French balls. If, however,
+owing to this extraordinary state of manners, to the ludicrous ardour of
+the old ladies, and the very moderate proportion of the young ones, a
+French ball is more the scene of aged folly, than of youthful pleasure,
+it must be allowed, that in another style of society, their lesser
+parties, they far excel us. The conversation in these is easy, natural,
+and often even fascinating. The terms of polite familiarity with which
+you yourself are regarded, and with which you are encouraged to treat
+all around you; the absence of every thing like stiffness, or formality;
+the little interludes of music, in which, either in singing, or in
+performing on some instrument, most of those you meet are able to take a
+part; the round games which are often introduced, and where all forget
+themselves to be happy, and to make others so,--this species of party is
+certainly something far superior to those crowded assemblies, engrafted
+now, as it would appear, with general consent, upon English society;
+and which, with a ludicrous perversity, we have denominated by that
+sacred word of Home, which has so long connected itself with scenes of
+tranquil and unobtrusive enjoyment.
+
+After having given such a picture of the general state of French
+society, as we have presented in this chapter, it would be highly unjust
+if we did not mention, that to the above descriptions of life and
+manners, we found many exceptions. That we met with many very
+intelligent men, of liberal education and gentlemanly conduct; and that
+in the town where we resided, and indeed generally during our travels,
+we experienced the greatest hospitality and kindness. The most amiable
+features in the French character are shewn in their conduct to
+strangers. But this is one of the few points in which we think they
+deserve the imitation of our countrymen; and we have been the more full
+in our observations upon their faults, because we trust that there may
+ever remain a marked difference between the two nations.
+
+The present we consider as the moment when all those who have had
+opportunities of judging of the French character, ought in duty to make
+public the information they have collected; for it is now that a more
+perfect intercourse must produce its effects upon the two nations; and
+taking it as an established maxim, that "vice to be hated, needs only to
+be seen," we have thus hastily laid our observations before the public,
+claiming their indulgence for the manifold faults to which our anxious
+desire to avail ourselves of the favourable moment has unavoidably given
+rise.
+
+
+REGISTER OF THE WEATHER.
+
+The climate of the south of France is, very generally, recommended for
+those invalids who are suffering under pulmonary complaints. The author
+of the foregoing work having resided at Aix, in Provence, during the
+winter months, has thought it right to publish the following short
+Register of the Weather, for the use of those who may have it in view to
+try the benefit of change of climate. His object is to show, that
+although, in general, the climate is much milder than in England or
+Scotland, yet there is much greater variety than is generally imagined.
+Upon the whole, he conceives, that he derived considerable benefit from
+his residence at Aix. But such were the difficulties in travelling, and
+so great was the want of comfort in the houses in the south of France,
+that he is of opinion, that in most cases a residence in Devonshire
+would be found fully as beneficial.
+
+* * *
+
+From experience in his own case, he can venture to affirm, that where
+the patient, labouring under a pulmonary complaint, visits the south of
+France, he should perform the journey by sea, which appears to him as
+beneficial as the land journey is hurtful.
+
+* * *
+
+In keeping the following Register, the thermometer was in the shade,
+though in a warm situation. The time of observation was between 12 and 1
+in France, and between 10 and 11 in Edinburgh.
+
+
+=AIX.=
+
+Dec.                                                                 _Ther_
+
+12.  Air delightful, like a fine day in June--sun very powerful,      60-1/4
+
+13.  The air rather damp and heavy--the sun very powerful,            65-3/4
+
+14.  Excepting in the sun, it was cold to-day,
+like to a spring day--the _Vent de Bise_ prevailed in the morning,    59
+
+15.  Frosty day--but between twelve and two the sun powerful,
+and the climate delightful,                                           56-3/4
+
+16.  The air frosty, but the sun very powerful--temperature
+delightful, though sharp and bracing--air very dry,                   56-3/4
+
+17.  Air more mild--sun exceedingly hot--this was a charming day--the
+air still sufficiently bracing,                                       59
+
+18.  No sun to-day--very mild air, but damp,                          54-1/2
+
+19.  No sun to-day--air very damp, and a little rain--a mild day,
+but very disagreeable,                                                56-3/4
+
+20.  Rain all night--thick mist in the morning, air damp--at twelve,
+the day broke up, and it was pleasant,                                54-1/2
+
+21.  Rain in the night--day damp, raw and cold,                       52-1/4
+
+22.  Day cleared up about twelve--air rather damp and raw--a
+great deal of rain in the night,                                      52-1/4
+
+23.  Clear day, but wind fresh and cold--pleasant in the sun,         53-1/2
+
+24.  Clear day--wind fresh and unpleasant--air damp,                  53-1/2
+
+25.  Clear day--wind very cold, but pleasant in the sun,              52-1/4
+
+26.  Day very cloudy, with rain--rain all night--air damp
+and very cold,                                                        50
+
+27.  Day still cloudy, though clearing up--air rather raw,            52-1/2
+
+28.  Day clear, morning frosty, but at noon temperature delightful,   54-1/2
+
+29.  Day clear, frosty, at twelve most charming,                      54-1/2
+
+30.  The same as yesterday,                                           54-1/2
+
+31.  Ditto,     ditto,                                                54-1/2
+
+1815. Jan. 1.  Day frosty, very cold in the morning, ice of one-fourth
+of an inch on the pools; at twelve most delightful in the sun,        52-1/4
+
+2.  Clear frosty day, very pleasant in the sun,                       52-1/4
+
+3.  Dark, cloudy, raw and cold; no going out,                         45-1/2
+
+4.  A clear frosty day, very cold, but pleasant in the sun,           47-3/4
+
+5.  Intensely cold and cloudy; no sun,                                40
+
+6.  Intensely cold, a bitter wind, cloudy, and no sun,                41
+
+7.  Not quite so cold, but raw, windy and disagreeable;
+snow at night,                                                        47-3/4
+
+8.  Very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,                      44-3/4
+
+9.  The same as yesterday,                                            43-1/4
+
+10.  Air much milder; very pleasant in the sun,                       50
+
+11.  Cold and windy; air rather raw; the _mistral_ blowing,           50
+
+12.  Cold and windy; _mistral_ blowing,                               45-1/2
+
+13.  Wind fallen, but cold continues; air more dry,                   44-1/4
+
+14.  Snow in the night, rain in the morning; cold and raw day,        45-1/2
+
+15.  Cold, but more dry; no sun, very unpleasant, and every
+appearance of snow,                                                   43-1/4
+
+16.  Snow in the night, dry cold day, but brilliant and
+powerful sun,                                                         41
+
+17.  Very high _mistral_, blowing intensely cold; air milder
+than yesterday,                                                       43-1/4
+
+18.  Still very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,               43-1/4
+
+19.  Cold increased, hard frost; not wind,                            34-1/4
+
+20.  Cold continues, but not so severe,                               38-3/4
+
+21.  Clear frosty day, but cold diminished; delightful
+in the sun,                                                           43-1/4
+
+22.  Clear frosty day, but cold; sun very powerful                    43-1/4
+
+23.  Clear frosty day, sun pleasant,                                  48-1/4
+
+24.  Cloudy and damp, but air milder; no sun,                         43-1/4
+
+25.  Rain the greater part of the day, cloudy and damp; air milder,   43-1/4
+
+26.  Cloudy all day, but air milder,                                  47-3/4
+
+27.  Cloudy and damp; but the air very mild,                          50
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto                                             50
+
+29.  Day clear and sunny, very pleasant                               54-1/2
+
+30.  Rainy all day long; air colder,                                  50
+
+31.  Day clears up, but air moist; air mild,                          54-1/2
+
+Feb. 1.  Day cloudy and damp; air mild,                               52-1/4
+
+2.  Day very clear, delightful sun,                                   54
+
+3.  Day cloudy and damp, air very mild,                               52-1/2
+
+4.  Day clear, very windy, but air very mild,                         56-3/4
+
+5.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, but air colder,              52-1/4
+
+6.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, air mild                     54-1/2
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+8.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+9.  Day cloudy, a little rain, air colder,                            52-1/4
+
+10.  Day very cloudy, a little rain, air mild,
+but damp, heavy, and unpleasant,                                      54-1/2
+
+11.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       54-1/2
+
+12.  Day clearer, but still heavy, and rather damp; air mild          54-1/2
+
+13.  Day damp, cloudy, great deal of rain wind, air cold,             50
+
+14.  Much the same,                                                   50
+
+15.  Fine clear day, sun very hot, air mild,                          56-3/4
+
+16.  Raw and damp, a little rain,                                     54-1/2
+
+17.  Delightful day, but good deal of wind; sun very powerful,        56-3/4
+
+18.  Delightful day, no wind, sun very powerful,                      61-1/4
+
+19.  Ditto    ditto, high wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+20.  Ditto    ditto, less wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+21.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       61-1/4
+
+22.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+23.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+24.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+25.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+26.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+27.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+Mar. 1.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                  61-1/2
+
+2.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64-1/2
+
+3.  Delightful day, sun very powerful,                                64
+
+4.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+5.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+6.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       50
+
+8.  Day damp and raw, rain in the evening,                            54-1/2
+
+9.  Fine day, but high wind,                                          60-1/4
+
+10.  Day damp and raw,                                                54-1/2
+
+11.  Day very cold, high wind, a little hail,                         52-1/4
+
+12.  Cold and raw, high wind, and a little rain,                      54-1/2
+
+
+=EDINBURGH.=
+
+Dec.                                                                _Ther_
+
+12.  Misty and damp--cleared up at mid-day,
+the thermometer rose to 54,                                           44
+
+13.  Fine clear day,                                                  45
+
+14.  Mild and damp,                                                   40
+
+15.  Showery and disagreeable,                                        45
+
+16.  Wind and rain,                                                   47
+
+17.  A great deal of rain and very stormy,                            44
+
+18.  Incessant rain--very windy at night,                             42
+
+19.  Heavy showers of rain and sleet,                                 39
+
+20.  A fine clear day,                                                32
+
+21.  A fine day,                                                      31
+
+22.  A fine day,                                                      37
+
+23.  A cold east wind,                                                32
+
+24.  A very cold N. E. wind,                                          35
+
+25.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+26.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+27.  Cold north wind--damp and dark,                                  34
+
+28.  Dark and damp,                                                   34
+
+29.  A good deal of snow,                                             33
+
+30.  Stormy and tempestuous,                                          45
+
+31.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+1815
+Jan. 1.  A fine day,                                                  35
+
+2.  Cloudy and damp,                                                  47
+
+3.  Cloudy,                                                           44
+
+4.  Very rainy,                                                       45
+
+5.  Mist and rain,                                                    38
+
+6.  A fine day,                                                       34
+
+7.  Damp, and a good deal of rain,                                    38
+
+8.  Clear frost--some snow,                                           30
+
+9.  Wind and rain,                                                    42
+
+10.  Snow in the forenoon--a perfect tempest of wind and
+rain at night,                                                        33
+
+11.  A great deal of snow during the night,                           32
+
+12.  A fine day,                                                      34
+
+13.  A fine day--snow melting,                                        37
+
+14.  A fine day,                                                      40
+
+15.  A fine day,                                                      30
+
+16.  A good deal of rain,                                             37
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+18.  Very gloomy,                                                     32
+
+19.  Hard frost in the night--very gloomy,                            32
+
+20.  A great deal of snow,                                            35
+
+21.  Snow,                                                            34
+
+22.  Clear fine day,                                                  31
+
+23.  Very hard frost in the night--fine day,                          25
+
+24.  Very cold,                                                       29
+
+25.  Good day, but very cold,                                         22
+
+26.  A great deal of snow,                                            32
+
+27.  Snow--a cold north wind,                                         34
+
+28.  Snow and hail,                                                   32
+
+29.  Rain and snow--very wet,                                         36
+
+30.  Very wet and disagreeable,                                       36
+
+31.  A fine mild day,                                                 35
+
+Feb. 1.  Very damp--heavy rain in the evening,                        38
+
+2.  Rain, and very thick mist,                                        40
+
+3.  A fine day,                                                       38
+
+4.  Damp and rainy,                                                   38
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       40
+
+6.  Damp and rainy,                                                   40
+
+7.  Very mild, but damp and cloudy,                                   45
+
+8.  A fine day; rain in the evening,                                  45
+
+9.  A very fine day; quite summer,                                    38
+
+10.  A fine day,                                                      32
+
+11.  A pretty good day; rather damp and cloudy,                       45
+
+12.  A fine forenoon, rain from two o'clock,                          45
+
+13.  A fine day,                                                      45
+
+14.  Cloudy and damp,                                                 45
+
+15.  Cloudy and some rain,                                            44
+
+16.  Damp and showery,                                                43
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      41
+
+18.  Cloudy, and a cold N. E. wind,                                   41
+
+19.  Damp and rainy, very windy in the evening,                       45
+
+20.  A cold north wind; showers of rain,                              42
+
+21.  Showery,                                                         45
+
+22.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                    50
+
+23.  Quite a summer day,                                              49
+
+24.  A good deal of rain in the morning,                              47
+
+25.  Rain; very tempestuous at night,                                 45
+
+26.  A cold north wind,                                               38
+
+27.  A pretty good day,                                               38
+
+28.  A charming summer day,                                           48
+
+Mar. 1  Rainy,                                                        48
+
+2.  A very fine day,                                                  38
+
+3.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                     45
+
+4.  A very fine day,                                                  42
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       45
+
+6.  A very fine day,                                                  43
+
+7.  A pretty good day, but a perfect tempest of wind
+and rain in the night,                                                43
+
+8.  A very good day,                                                  44
+
+9.  Showers of snow,                                                  36
+
+10.  A very cold north wind,                                          32
+
+11.  A very cold day,                                                 35
+
+12.  A very cold wind, and showers of snow,                           40
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+
+MICHAEL ANDERSON,
+
+PRINTER, EDINBURGH
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] This statement, which we had from an officer who was with him at the
+time, may be easily reconciled with the account of the battle given by
+La Baume, which is in some measure inconsistent in its own parts.
+
+[2] "See, Monsieur le Count,--said I, rising up, and laying some of King
+William's shillings on the table,--by jingling and rubbing one against
+another, for seventy years, in one body's pocket or another, they are
+become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling from
+another. The English, like ancient medals, keep more apart, and passing
+but few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine
+hand of nature has given them. They are not so pleasant to feel,--but,
+in return, the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see
+whose image and superscription they bear."
+
+_Sentimental Journey_, Vol. II. p. 87.
+
+[3] De l'Allemagne, tom. 2d. 303.
+
+[4] "We have no more war."
+
+[5] "Great silence."--"Ah! how terrible is this house! It is the house
+of God, and the gate of Heaven."
+
+[6] "Don't be alarmed, Sir; this is nothing."
+
+[7] "War! war!"
+
+[8] A small bit of wood.
+
+[9] "Adieu! to meet at supper."
+
+[10] "It is well enough for the moment, but this will not last long."
+
+[11] "He shewed at his sports, that spirit of tyranny which he has since
+manifested on the great stage of the world; and he who was doomed one
+day to make Europe tremble, commenced by being the master and terror of
+a troop of children."
+
+[12] Such are the emphatic expressions made use of by a French
+gentleman, who took the trouble to draw up for me a short memoir,
+containing what he considered the most correct and well authenticated
+circumstances in the political life of Napoleon.
+
+[13] "Sire," said a General to him, while congratulating him on the
+victory of Montmirail, "what a glorious day, if we did not see around us
+so many towns and countries destroyed." "So much the better," said
+Napoleon; "that supplies me with soldiers!"
+
+[14] "Well, in an hour the ladies of Rheims will be in a fine fright."
+
+[15] They seize him, they conduct him to the town-hall, before a
+military commission, which proceeds to his trial, or rather to his
+condemnation. An hour was scarce elapsed when an officer appears, orders
+the doors to be opened, and demands if sentence is pronounced. They tell
+him that the judges are about to put the question to the vote, "Let them
+instantly shoot him," said the officer; "this is the Emperor's order."
+The unfortunate Goualt is condemned.--The voice of mourning is heard
+throughout the whole city. The proprietor of the house which Bonaparte
+had chosen for his head-quarters solicits an audience; he obtains it.
+"Sire, (said M. Duchatel), a day of triumph ought to be a day of mercy;
+I come to entreat your Majesty to grant to the whole city of Troyes the
+pardon of one of her fellow-citizens, who has been condemned to death."
+"Begone! (said the tyrant, with a savage look), you forget that you are
+in my presence." It was 11 o'clock at night when the unfortunate man
+left the town-hall, escorted by gens-d'armes, and carrying, attached to
+his back and breast, a writing in large characters, in these words,
+"Traitor to his country," which was read by light of flambeaux. This
+heart-rending assembly advanced towards the market-place, appointed for
+the execution of criminals. There they wished to bind the eyes of the
+accused;--he refused, and said, with a firm voice, that he knew how to
+die for his King. He himself gave the signal to fire, and exclaiming,
+"Long live the King! Long live Louis XVIII!" he drew his last breath.
+
+[16] Revenge is their first law, lying the second, and to deny their God
+is the third.
+
+[17] "The distinguishing features of this man are, lying and the love of
+life; I go to attack him, I shall beat him, and I shall see him at my
+feet demanding his life."
+
+[18] "Promote this officer; for if you do not, he knows the way to
+promote himself."
+
+[19] "To dissipate the royalists, and to batter the Parisians even at
+their firesides."
+
+[20] "At break of day the Austrians commenced the attack, at first
+gently enough, afterwards more briskly, and at last with such fury, that
+the French were broken on all sides. At this frightful moment, when the
+dead and the dying strewed the earth, the first Consul, placed in the
+middle of his guard, appeared immoveable, insensible, and as if struck
+by thunder. In vain his Generals sent him their Aides de Camp, one after
+another, to demand assistance. In vain did the Aides de Camp wait his
+orders. He gave none. He scarcely exhibited signs of life. Many thought,
+that, believing the battle lost, he wished himself to be killed. Others,
+with more reason, persuaded themselves, that he had lost all power of
+thought, and that he neither heard nor saw what was said or what passed
+about him. General Berthier came to beg he would instantly withdraw;
+instead of answering him, he lay down on the ground. In the meantime,
+the French fled as fast as possible. The battle was lost, when suddenly
+we heard it said, that General Dessaix was coming up with fresh troops.
+Presently we saw him appear at their head. The runaways rallied behind
+his columns. Their courage returned--fortune changed. The French
+attacked in their turn, with the same fury with which, they had been
+attacked; they burned to efface the shame of their defeat in the
+morning."
+
+[21] "I die regretting that I have not lived long enough for my
+country."
+
+[22] We may lay it down as a maxim, that in every state the desire of
+glory exists with the liberty of the subjects, and diminishes with the
+same; glory is never the companion of servitude.
+
+[23] "The youth of the present day are brought up in very different
+principles: the love of glory, above all, has taken deep root; it has
+become the distinguishing attribute of the national character, exalted
+by twenty years of continued success. But this very glory was become our
+idol; it absorbed all the thoughts of the brave fellows whose wounds had
+rendered them unfit for service--all the hopes of the youthful warriors
+who for the first time bore arms; an unlooked-for blow has been struck,
+and we now find in our hearts a blank similar to that which a lover
+feels who has lost the object of his passion; every thing he sees, every
+thing he hears, renews his grief. This sentiment renders our situation
+vague and painful; every one seeks to hide from himself the void which
+he feels exist in his heart. He is looked upon as humbled, after twenty
+years of continued triumph, for having lost a single stake, which
+unfortunately was the stake of honour, and which had become the rule of
+our destinies."--CARONT'S MEMOIR.
+
+[24] "The French are the only people in the universe could laugh even
+while freezing."
+
+[25] "Well, there's more materials--more flesh for the cannon!"
+
+[26] "My faith, there's a fine consumption." The word _Consommation_, is
+also a mess, a finishing. It is not easy to say whether it was used in
+one or all of these senses by Napoleon.
+
+[27] "It was icy cold. The dying were yet breathing; the crowd of dead
+bodies, and the black gaps which the blood had made in the snow, were
+horribly contrasted. The staff were sensibly affected. The Emperor alone
+looked coolly on that scene of mourning and of blood. I pushed my horse
+a few paces before his, for I was anxious to observe him at such a
+moment. You would have said that he was devoid of every human feeling;
+that all that surrounded him existed but for him. He spoke coolly on the
+events of the evening before. In passing before a groupe of Russian
+grenadiers who had been massacred, the horse of one of the aides-de-camp
+started. The Emperor perceived it: "That horse (said he, coldly) is a
+coward."
+
+[28] "Workmen who had just left their workshops, peasants escaped from
+the villages, with bonnets on their heads, and a staff in their hands,
+in six months became intrepid soldiers, and in two years skilful
+officers and generals, formidable to the oldest generals in Europe."
+
+[29] "They cut down the crops of men three times a-year."
+
+[30] "It is only under a government as wise and as great as yours, that
+a simple soldier like me could have formed the project of carrying the
+war into Egypt.--Yes, Directors, scarcely shall I be master of Egypt,
+and of the solitudes of Palestine, than England will give you a first
+rate ship of the line for a sack of corn."
+
+[31] "If I present myself with troops (said Napoleon) it is only to
+please my friends, for in truth, I have the greatest desire of appearing
+there as of old; Louis XIV. appeared in the Parliament _in boots_, and a
+whip in his hand."
+
+[32] "I am one of those whom men kill, but whom they cannot dishonour;
+in three months we shall have peace--either the enemy shall be chased
+from our territory, or I shall be no more."
+
+[33] "I have called you around me to do good; you have done ill. You
+have among you persons devoted to England, who correspond with the
+Prince Regent, by means of the Advocate Deseze. Eleven-twelfths of you
+are good; the rest are factious. Return to your departments;--I shall
+have my eye on you. I am one whom men may kill, but whom they cannot
+dishonour. Who is he among you who could support the load of government.
+It has crushed the Constituent Assembly, which dictated laws to a weak
+king. The Fauxbourg St Antoine would have assisted me, but it would soon
+have abandoned you. What are become of the Jacobins, the Girondins, the
+Vergniaus, the Guadets, and so many others? They are dead. You have
+sought to _bespatter_ me in the eyes of France. This is a heinous
+crime;--besides, what is the throne? Four pieces of gilded wood covered
+with velvet. I had pointed out to you a Secret Committee; it is there
+that you should have established your griefs. It was in the family that
+our _dirty linen should have been washed_. I have a title; you have
+none. What are you in the Constitution? Nothing. You have no authority.
+The Throne is the Constitution. Every thing is in the throne, and in me.
+I repeat it to you, you have among you factious persons. Mr Lainè is a
+wicked man; the rest are factious. I know them, and I shall pursue them.
+I ask you, Was it while the enemy were among us that you ought to have
+done such things? Nature has endowed me with great courage, it can
+resist every thing. Much has it cost my pride, but I have sacrificed it.
+But I am above your miserable declamations. I had need of
+consolation,--and you have dishonoured me. But no; my victories crush
+your complaints. I am one of those who triumph or who die. Return to
+your departments.
+
+[34] "One of his Ministers one day addressed him, presenting him a
+report which he had desired. The subject was a conspiracy against his
+person. I was present at that scene; I expected, I confess, to see him
+enter in a fury, thunder forth against the traitors, threaten the
+magistrates, and accuse them of negligence. Not at all; he ran over the
+paper without the least sign of agitation. Judge of my surprise, or
+rather what sweet emotion I felt, when he pronounced these _touching and
+sublime_ words:--Count, the state has not suffered, the magistrates have
+not been insulted. It was only my person they aimed at; I pity them for
+not knowing that my every wish is for the good of France; but every man
+may go astray. Tell the ungrateful men that I pardon them." Now, I defy
+the most faithful royalist, who should have witnessed such an action,
+not to exclaim--If Heaven was to give an usurper to France, let us thank
+it for having given this one! But stop, unfortunate one: your eyes have
+indeed seen, your ears have heard; believe nothing, but be present at
+the levee of this hero, so magnanimous, so little desirous of revenging
+himself. The doors are opened--Behold him! The crowd of courtiers
+surround him--all fix their eyes on him--his face is changed--the
+muscles are violently contracted--his whole appearance is that of a
+ruffian; a death-like silence reigns in the assembly--the Prince has not
+yet spoken, but he surveys the group: He perceives the same officer,
+who, two days before, had presented him the report. "Count (said he),
+are these vile conspirators executed? Are their accomplices in chains?
+Have the executioners given a new example to the imitators of those who
+aim at my life?"
+
+[35] "You wish to see us drawn on hurdles to the scaffold."
+
+[36] These nutshells.
+
+[37] Swords of honour--guns of honour.
+
+[38] Saucepan of honour.
+
+[39] "Moreau was conversing with the Emperor Alexander, from whom he was
+only distant half a horse's length. It is likely, that they perceived
+from the place this brilliant staff, and fired on it at random. Moreau
+alone was struck; a cannon-ball broke his right knee, and passing
+through the horse's side, carried off the flesh of his left leg. The
+generous Alexander shed tears. Colonel Rapatel rushed towards Moreau,
+who uttered a long sigh, and then fainted. Returned to himself, he spoke
+with the utmost coolness. He said to Monsieur Rapatel, "I am lost, my
+friend, but it is so glorious to die for such a cause, and under the
+eyes of so great a Prince!" A few minutes afterwards, he said to the
+Emperor Alexander himself, "Nothing remains, Sire, save the trunk; but
+the heart is there, and the head is your's." He must have suffered the
+most excruciating pain; but he called for a segar, and quietly began
+smoking. Mr Wylie, first surgeon to the Emperor, hastened to amputate
+the limb, which was most severely used. During this cruel operation,
+Moreau scarce shewed a change of countenance, and did not cease to smoke
+his segar. The amputation performed, Mr Wylie examined the right leg,
+and found it in such a state, that he could not refrain from expressing
+his terror. "I understand you," said Moreau, "you must cut off this one
+too.--Well, do it quickly.--However, I would rather have died." He
+wanted to write to his wife; and he wrote to her, with a steady hand,
+these words:--"MY DEAR FRIEND,--The battle was decided three days
+ago.--I have had both legs carried off by a bullet--that rascal
+Bonaparte is always lucky. They have performed the amputation as well as
+possible. The army has made a retrograde movement, but it is not
+occasioned by any reverse, but from a manoeuvre, and in order to approach
+General Blucher.--Excuse my scribbling.--I love you, and I embrace you
+with all my heart. I have charged Rapatel to finish."--Immediately after
+this, he said, "I am not without danger, I know it well; but if I die,
+if a premature fate hurry me from a beloved wife and child--from my
+country, which I have wished to serve in spite of itself; do not forget
+to say to the French, who shall speak of me, that I die with the regret
+of not having accomplished my projects--To free my country from the
+frightful yoke that oppresses her;--to crush Bonaparte-every species of
+war, every possible means, were laudable. With what joy would I have
+consecrated the little talent I posses to the cause of humanity. My
+heart belonged to France."
+
+At seven o'clock, the sick man finding himself alone with Mr Svinine,
+said to him, with a faint voice, "I must absolutely dictate a letter to
+you."--Mr Svinine took up the pen, and sighing, traced the few following
+lines, dictated by Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--I sink into the tomb with the same sentiments of respect,
+admiration, and devotion with which your Majesty has always inspired me,
+since I have had the happiness of approaching your person."
+
+"In pronouncing these last words, the sick man stopped short and shut
+his eyes. Mr Svinine waited, thinking that Moreau was deliberating on
+the sequel of the letter--Vain hope--Moreau was no move."
+
+[40] "Well, my good woman;--You expect the Emperor, don't you?" 'Yes,
+Sir; I hope we shall have a sight of him.' "Well, my good woman, what do
+you folks say of the Emperor?" 'That he is a great villain.' "Eh, my
+good woman; and what do you yourself say?" 'Shall I tell you frankly,
+Sir, what I think?--If I were the captain of the ship, I would only take
+him on board to drown him.'
+
+[41] "The Commissaries, on arriving at Calade, found him with his head
+leaning on his two hands, and his face bathed in tears. He told them
+that people decidedly aimed at his life; and that the mistress of the
+inn, who had not known him, had told him that the Emperor was detested
+as a rascal, and that they would only embark him to drown him. He would
+eat or drink nothing, however pressed to it; and though he might have
+been assured by the example of those who were at table with him, he made
+them bring him some bread and water from his carriage, which he ate with
+avidity. They waited for night to continue the journey; they were only
+two leagues from Aix. The populace of that town would not have been so
+easily constrained, as in the other towns, where he had already run such
+risks. The Sub-Prefect, taking with him the Lieutenant and six of the
+gens-d'armes, rode towards Calade. The night was dark, and the weather
+very cold; which double circumstance protected Napoleon much better than
+would have been effected by the strongest escort. The Sub-Prefect and
+the guards met his suite a few instants after they had quitted Calade,
+and followed him till he arrived at the gates of Aix, at two in the
+morning. After having changed horses, Bonaparte continuing his route,
+passed under the walls of the town, and the reiterated cries of "Long
+live the King," which were shouted forth by the inhabitants assembled on
+the ramparts. Arrived at the limits of the Department, at an inn called
+the Great Pagere, he stopped there for breakfast. General Bertrand
+proposed to the Sub-Prefect to ascend to the room of the Commissaries,
+where all were at breakfast before his departure. Here were ten or
+twelve persons. Napoleon was of the number; he had the dress of an
+Austrian officer, and a helmet on his head. Seeing the Sub-Prefect in
+his councillor's habit, he said to him, "You would not have known me in
+this dress; it is these gentlemen who have made me take it, thinking it
+necessary to ensure my safety. I could have had an escort of 3000 men,
+which I refused, preferring to trust myself to French honour. I have not
+had reason to complain of that confidence from Fontainbleau to Avignon;
+but between that town and this, I have been insulted, and have been in
+great danger. The Provençals degrade themselves. Since I have been in
+France, I have not had a good regiment of Provençals under my orders.
+They are good for nothing but to make a noise. The Gascons are boasters,
+but at least they are brave."--At these words, one of the party, who no
+doubt was a Gascon, pulled out his shirt ruffle, and said, "that's
+pleasant." Bonaparte continuing to address himself to the Sub-Prefect,
+said to him, "What is the Prefect about?"--'He left this at the first
+news of the change which had happened at Paris.' "And his wife?" 'She
+had left it before.' "She then took the start. Do the people pay the
+revenue and the droits reunis?"--'Not a halfpenny.'--"Are there many
+English at Marseilles?" Here the Sub-Prefect related all that had lately
+passed in that port, and with what transports they had received the
+English. Bonaparte, who did not take much pleasure in such a recital,
+put an end to it, by saying to the Sub-Prefect, "Tell your Provençals
+that the Emperor is very ill pleased with them."
+
+"Arrived at Bouilledon, he shut himself up in an apartment, with his
+sister (Pauline Borghese)--Sentinels were placed at the door.
+Notwithstanding which, some ladies arriving at the gallery, which
+communicated with that room, beheld there an officer in Austrian
+uniform, who said to them, "Ladies, what do you wish to see?" 'We wish
+to see Napoleon.' "But that's myself." The ladies, looking at him, said,
+smiling, 'You are joking, Sir; you are not Napoleon.' "I assure you,
+ladies, it is I.--What!--You thought Napoleon must have a more wicked
+appearance. Don't they say that I am a wretch, a rascal?"--The ladies
+did not care to undeceive him. Bonaparte, not wishing to press them hard
+on this subject, turned the conversation.--But always occupied with his
+first idea, he returned to it immediately.--"Acknowledge, at least,
+ladies, that now, when fortune is against me, they say that I am a
+wretch, a miscreant, and a marauder. But do you know the meaning of all
+this? I wished to make France superior to England, and I have failed in
+this project."
+
+[42] "When we are on the paved streets of Paris, we perceive that the
+people do not there make the laws;--no convenience for pedestrians--no
+side pavement; the people seem to be a body separated from the other
+orders of the state--the rich and the great who possess equipages, have
+the right of crushing and mutilating them in the streets--a hundred
+victims expire every year under the wheels of the carriages."
+
+[43] "Before the revolution, the village contained four thousand
+inhabitants. It furnished, as its share to the general service of the
+church, and of the hospitals, as well as for the instruction of youth,
+five ecclesiastics, two sisters of charity, and three schoolmasters.
+These last are replaced by a riding-master, a drawing-master, and two
+music-masters. Out of eight manufactories of woollen and cotton stuffs,
+there remains but one. But in revenge, there are established two
+coffee-houses, one tobacco-shop, one restaurateur's shop, and one
+billiard-room, which flourish in a manner quite surprising. We reckoned
+formerly forty ploughmen. Twenty-five of these have become couriers,
+riders, and coachmen. Their place is filled up by women, who conduct the
+plough, and who, to amuse themselves, carry occasionally to the market,
+carts full of straw or of charcoal. The number of carpenters, masons,
+and other artisans, is diminished by about a half. But the price of all
+articles of workmanship having risen also one half; _it comes to the
+same thing, and a compensation is established_. One class of
+individuals, which the villages furnishes in great abundance, and in
+much too great a proportion, are livery servants and domestics of
+luxury. Whilst this lasts, the country will be depopulated of all those
+useful ranks who cultivate the soil, and the towns will be peopled with
+the idle and corrupt. Many women and young girls, who were only
+sempstresses and under servants, have found advancement in the great
+cities, and in the capital. They have become waiting maids,
+embroiderers, and milliners. One might say that luxury had exhausted our
+youth; all eyes are turned towards it, and it alone occupies every
+thought. Never, at any former period, did the contingent in lawyers,
+bailiffs, law students, physicians, and artists, exceed three or four;
+it is now raised to sixty-two: and what we should never have conceived
+in former days, there are now among us as many painters, poets,
+comedians, opera dancers, and travelling musicians, as a city of eighty
+thousand souls would have furnished thirty or forty years ago."
+
+[44] The variety of the laws and customs is attended with this effect,
+that the most intelligent advocate becomes as ignoramus when he finds
+himself in Gascony or in Normandy. He loses at Vernon a case which he
+had gained at Poissy. Select the most skilful for a consultation or for
+pleading; well, he will be under the necessity of having his advocate
+and his attorney, if we commit to his care a cause in most of the other
+courts.
+
+[45] "I can excuse, but do not envy those who can live as if they had
+neither suffered nor seen others suffer; but they must pardon me, who am
+unable to imitate them. These days of total and unheard-of degradation
+in human nature are yet before my eyes, press heavily on my soul, and
+fall incessantly from my pen, destined to retrace them even to my last
+hour."
+
+[46] The reader will easily perceive, that the end of this chapter was
+written at the time of Napoleon's landing from Elba. Not a word of it
+has been altered, for the author is convinced that it is an accurate
+picture of France in its present state.
+
+[47] "A Frenchman, (says Madame de Stael, with great truth,) can still
+continue to speak, even when he has no ideas."
+
+[48] "Their trifling, naturally intended for the toilet, seems to have
+become accessary to the formation of the general character of the
+nation: They trifle in council, they trifle at the head of an army, they
+trifle with an ambassador."
+
+[49] "Gentlemen, it is impossible to deceive persons enlightened as you
+are; I am absolutely going to cut off the head of this child: But before
+commencing, I must let you see that I am no quack. Well, in the
+meantime, as an exordium, Who is there among you who has the toothache?"
+"I," exclaimed instantly a sturdy peasant, &c.
+
+[50] "Gentlemen, in the universe there is but one sun; in the kingdom of
+France there is but one king; in the science of medicine there is
+Charini alone."
+
+[51] "You are a Scotchman?" 'Yes, Sir.' "Oh, how droll that is." 'And
+how is it droll, Sir?' "It is the country of Napoleon. It is an island,
+is it not?" 'Certainly not, Sir.' "On my faith, I thought they always
+called it the Island of Corse."
+
+[52] "Give a supper; that will make every body run."
+
+[53] "Even if Old Nick should ring his supper-bell, The French would
+lick their lips, and flock to H--II."
+
+[54] "Down with the tyrant! Down with the soldiers! Long live the
+Emperor! Long live the Marshals! Long live the army! Long live Louis,
+the wished-for Monarch! Long live the descendant of Good Henry IV.! Long
+live the nation! No feudal laws! No Kings! No nobility! No assessed
+taxes! No conscription."
+
+[55] "Long life to death!"
+
+[56] "Who, after having sacrificed millions of victims, could not die
+like a soldier."
+
+
+ERRATA. [Transcriber's note: already corrected.]
+
+Page 20. line    3. for _a_ read _est_.
+     21.        18. after _sont_ insert _de_.
+     97.         6. for _les_ read _des_.
+    156. last line, for _c'est_ read _ce m'est_.
+    272. line   20. for _des_ read _de_.
+    273.        17. for _des_ read _de_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years
+1814-1815, by Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years 1814-1815, by
+Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Travels in France during the years 1814-1815
+       Comprising a residence at Paris, during the stay of the
+       allied armies, and at Aix, at the period of the landing
+       of Bonaparte, in two volumes.
+
+Author: Archibald Alison
+        Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+Release Date: December 4, 2008 [EBook #27410]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN FRANCE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Chuck Greif and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://dp.rastko.net
+(Produced from images of the Bibliotheque nationale de
+France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS
+
+1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX,
+
+_AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF_
+
+BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREDIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52. PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST. REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK,
+
+PARRY, AND CO. T. UNDERWOOD, LONDON;
+
+AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+[Transcriber's note: The original spellings have been maintained; the
+French spelling and accentuation have not been corrected, but left as
+they appear in the original.]
+
+
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+A Second Edition of the following Work having been demanded by the
+Booksellers, the Author has availed himself of the opportunity to
+correct many verbal inaccuracies, to add some general reflections, and
+to alter materially those parts of it which were most hastily prepared
+for the press, particularly the Journal in the Second Volume, by
+retrenching a number of particulars of partial interest, and
+substituting more general observations on the state of the country,
+supplied by his own recollection and that of his fellow-travellers.
+
+He has only farther to repeat here, what he stated in the Advertisement
+to the first Edition, that the whole materials of the Publication were
+collected in France, partly by himself, during a residence which the
+state of his health had made adviseable in Provence, and partly by some
+friends who had preceded him in their visit to France, and were at Paris
+during the time when it was first occupied by the Allied Armies;--and
+that he has submitted it to the world, merely in the hope of adding
+somewhat to the general stock of information regarding the situation,
+character, and prospects of the French people, which it is so desirable
+that the English Public should possess.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+VOL. I.
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Paris
+
+II. Paris--The Allied Armies
+
+III. Paris--Its Public Buildings
+
+IV. Environs of Paris
+
+V. Paris--The Louvre
+
+VI. Paris--The French Character and Manners
+
+VII. Paris--The Theatres
+
+VIII. Paris--The French Army and Imperial Government
+
+IX. Journey to Flanders
+
+
+VOLUME II.
+
+
+CHAPTER I. Journey to Aix
+
+II. Residence at Aix, and Journey to Bourdeaux
+
+III. State of France under Napoleon--Anecdotes of him
+
+IV. State of France under Napoleon--continued
+
+V. State of Society and Manners in France
+
+Register of the Weather
+
+
+
+
+VOLUME FIRST.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO PARIS.
+
+
+We passed through Kent in our way to France, on Sunday the first of May
+1814. This day's journey was very delightful. The whole scenery around
+us,--the richness of the fields and woods, then beginning to assume the
+first colours of spring; the extent and excellence of the cultivation;
+the thriving condition of the towns, and the smiling aspect of the neat
+and clean villages through which we passed; the luxuriant bloom of the
+fruit-trees surrounding them; the number of beautiful villas adapted to
+the accommodation of the middle ranks of society, the crowds of
+well-dressed peasantry going to and returning from church; the frank
+and cheerful countenances of the men, and beauty of the women--all
+presented a most pleasing spectacle. If we had not proposed to cross the
+channel, we should have compared all that we now saw with our
+recollections of Scotland; and the feeling of the difference, although
+it might have increased our admiration, would perhaps have made us less
+willing to acknowledge it. But when we were surveying England with a
+view to a comparison with France, the difference of its individual
+provinces was overlooked;--we took a pride in the apparent happiness and
+comfort of a people, of whom we knew nothing more, than that they were
+our countrymen; and we rejoiced, that the last impression left on our
+minds by the sight of our own country, was one which we already
+anticipated that no other could efface.
+
+Our passage to Calais was rendered very interesting, by the number of
+Frenchmen who accompanied us. Some of these were emigrants, who had
+spent the best part of their lives in exile; the greater part were
+prisoners of various ranks, who had been taken at different periods of
+the war. There was evidently the greatest diversity of character, of
+prospects, of previous habits, and of political and moral sentiments
+among these men; the only bond that connected them was, the love of
+their common country; and at a moment for which they had been so long
+and anxiously looking, this was sufficient to repress all jealousy and
+discord, and to unite them cordially and sincerely in the sentiment
+which was expressed, with true French enthusiasm, by one of the party,
+as we left the harbour of Dover,--"Voila notre chere France,--A present
+nous sommes tous amis!"
+
+As we proceeded, the expression of their emotions, in words, looks, and
+gestures, was sometimes extremely pleasing, at other times irresistibly
+ludicrous, but always characteristic of a people whose natural feelings
+are quick and lively, and who have no idea of there being any dignity or
+manliness in repressing, or concealing them. When the boat approached
+the French shore, a fine young officer, who had been one of the most
+amusing of our companions, leapt from the prow, and taking up a handful
+of sand, kissed it with an expression of ardent feeling and enthusiastic
+joy, which it was delightful to observe.
+
+It is only on occasions of this kind, that the whole strength of the
+feeling of patriotism is made known. In the ordinary routine of civil
+life, this feeling is seldom awakened. In the moments of national
+enthusiasm and exultation, it is often mingled with others. But in
+witnessing the emotions of the French exiles and captives, on returning
+to their wasted and dishonoured country, we discerned the full force of
+those moral ties, by which, even in the most afflicting circumstances of
+national humiliation and disaster, the hearts of men are bound to the
+land of their fathers.
+
+We landed, on the evening of the 2d, about three miles from Calais, and
+walked into the town. The appearance of the country about Calais does
+not differ materially from that in the immediate neighbourhood of Dover,
+which is much less fertile than the greater part of Kent; but the
+cottages are decidedly inferior to the English. The first peculiarity
+that struck us was the grotesque appearance of the _Douaniers_, who came
+to examine us on the coast; and when we had passed through the numerous
+guards, and been examined at the guard-houses, previously to our
+admission into the town, the gates of which had been shut, we had
+already observed, what subsequent observation confirmed, that the air
+and manner which we call military are in very little estimation among
+the French soldiers. The general appearance of the French soldiery
+cannot be better described than it has been by Mr Scott: "They seemed
+rather the fragments of broken-up gangs, than the remains of a force
+that had been steady, controlled, and lawful." They have almost
+uniformly, officers and men, much expression of intelligence, and often
+of ferocity, in their countenances, and much activity in their
+movements; but there are few of them whom an Englishman, judging from
+his recollection of English soldiers, would recognise to belong to a
+regular army.
+
+The lower orders of inhabitants in Calais hailed the arrival of the
+English strangers with much pleasure, loudly proclaiming, however, the
+interested motives of their joy. A number of blackguard-looking men
+gathered round us, recommending their own services, and different
+hotels, with much vehemence, and violent altercations among themselves;
+and troops of children followed, crying, "Vivent les Anglois--Give me
+one sous." In our subsequent travels, we were often much amused by the
+importunities of the children, who seem to beg, in many places, without
+being in want, and are very ingenious in recommending themselves to
+travellers; crying first, Vive le Roi; if that does not succeed, Vive
+l'Empereur; that failing, Vive le Roi d'Angleterre; and professing
+loyalty to all the sovereigns of Europe, rather than give up the hopes
+of a _sous_.
+
+Having reached the principal inn, we found that all the places in the
+diligence for Paris were taken for the ten following days. By this time,
+in consequence of the communication with France being opened, several
+new coaches had been established between London and Dover, but no such
+measure had been thought of on the road between Calais and Paris. There
+was no want of horses, as we afterwards found, belonging to the inns on
+the roads, but this seemed to indicate strongly want of ready money
+among the innkeepers. However, there were at Calais a number of
+"voitures" of different kinds, which had been little used for several
+years; one of which we hired from a "magasin des chaises," which
+reminded us of the Sentimental Journey, and set out at noon on the 3d,
+for Paris, accompanied by a French officer who had been a prisoner in
+Scotland, and to whose kindness and attentions we were much indebted.
+
+We were much struck with the appearance of poverty and antiquity about
+Calais, which afforded a perfect contrast to the Kentish towns; and all
+the country towns, through which we afterwards passed in France,
+presented the same general character. The houses were larger than those
+of most English country towns, but they were all old; in few places out
+of repair, but nowhere newly built, or even newly embellished. There
+were no newly painted houses, windows, carriages, carts, or even
+sign-posts; the furniture, and all the interior arrangements of the
+inns, were much inferior to those we had left; their external appearance
+stately and old-fashioned; the horses in the carriages were caparisoned
+with white leather, and harnessed with ropes; the men who harnessed them
+were of mean appearance, and went about their work as if they had many
+other kinds of work to do. There were few carts, and hardly any
+four-wheeled carriages to be seen in the streets; and it was obvious
+that the internal communications of this part of the country were very
+limited. There appeared to be few houses fitted for the residence of
+persons of moderate incomes, and hardly any villas about the town to
+which they might retire after giving up business. All the lower ranks of
+people, besides being much worse looking than the English, were much
+more coarsely clothed, and they seemed utterly indifferent about the
+appearance of their dress. Very few of the men wore beaver hats, and
+hardly two had exactly the same kind of covering for their heads.
+
+The dress of the women of better condition, particularly their
+high-crowned bonnets, and the ruffs about their necks, put us in mind of
+the pictures of old English fashions. The lower people appeared to bear
+a much stronger resemblance to some of the Highland clans, and to the
+Welch, than to any other inhabitants of Britain.
+
+On the road between Calais and Boulogne, we began to perceive the
+peculiarities of the husbandry of this part of France. These are just
+what were described by Arthur Young; and although it is possible, as the
+natives uniformly affirm, that the agriculture has improved since the
+revolution, this improvement must be in the details of the operations,
+and in the extent of land under tillage, not in the principles of the
+art. The most striking to the eye of a stranger are the want of
+enclosures, the want of pasture lands and of green crops, and the
+consequent number of bare fallows, on many of which a few sheep and
+long-legged lean hogs are turned out to pick up a miserable subsistence.
+The common rotation appears to be a three year's one; fallow, wheat, and
+oats or barley. On this part of the road, the ground is almost all under
+tillage, but the soil is poor; there is very little wood, and the
+general appearance of the country is therefore very bleak. In the
+immediate neighbourhood of Boulogne, it is better clothed, and varied
+by some pasture fields and gardens. The ploughs go with wheels. They are
+drawn by only two horses, but are clumsily made, and evidently inferior
+to the Scotch ploughs. They, as well as the carts, are made generally of
+green unpeeled wood, like those in the Scotch Highlands, and are never
+painted. This absence of all attempt to give an air of neatness or
+smartness to any part of their property--this indifference as to its
+appearance, is a striking characteristic of the French people over a
+great part of the country.
+
+It is likewise seen, as before observed, in the dress of the lower
+orders; but here it is often combined with a fantastic and ludicrous
+display of finery. An English dairy-maid or chamber-maid, ploughman or
+groom, shopkeeper or mechanic, has each a dress consistent in its parts,
+and adapted to the situation and employment of the wearer. But a country
+girl in France, whose bed-gown and petticoat are of the coarsest
+materials, and scantiest dimensions, has a pair of long dangling
+ear-rings, worth from 30 to 40 francs. A carter wears an opera hat, and
+a ballad-singer struts about in long military boots; and a blacksmith,
+whose features are obscured by the smoke and dirt which have been
+gathering on them for weeks, and whose clothes hang about him in
+tatters, has his hair newly frizzled and powdered, and his long queue
+plaited on each side, all down his back, with the most scrupulous
+nicety.
+
+Akin to this shew of finery in some parts of their dress, utterly
+inconsistent with the other parts of it, and with their general
+condition, is the disposition of the lower orders in France, even in
+their intercourse with one another, to ape the manners of their
+superiors. "An English peasant," as Mr Scott has well remarked, "appears
+to spurn courtesy from him, in a bitter sense of its inapplicability to
+his condition." This feeling is unknown in France. A French soldier
+hands his "bien aimee" into a restaurateur's of the lowest order and
+supplies her with fruits and wine, with the grace and foppery of a
+Parisian "petit maitre," and with the gravity of a
+"philosophe."--"Madame," says a scavenger in the streets of Paris,
+laying his hand on his heart, and making a low bow to an old woman
+cleaning shoes at the door of an inn, "J'espere que vous vous portez
+bien."--"Monsieur," she replies, dropping a curtsey with an air of
+gratitude and profound respect, "Vous me faites d'honneur; je me porte a
+merveille."
+
+This peculiarity of manner in the lower orders, will generally, it is
+believed, be found connected with their real degradation and
+insignificance in the eyes of their superiors. It is precisely because
+they are not accustomed to look with respect to those of their own
+condition, and because their condition is not respected by others, that
+they imitate the higher ranks. An English coachman or stable-boy is
+taught to believe, that a certain demeanour befits his situation; and he
+will certainly expose himself to more sneers and animadversions, by
+assuming the manners of the rank next above him in society, than the
+highest peer of the realm will by assuming his. But Frenchmen of the
+same rank are fain to seek that respectability from manner, which is
+denied to the lowness of their condition, and the vulgarity of their
+occupation; and they therefore assume the manner which is associated in
+their minds, and in the minds of their observers, with situations
+acknowledged to be respectable.
+
+It is also to be observed, that the power of ridicule, which has so much
+influence in the formation of manner, is much less in France than in
+England. The French have probably more relish for true wit than any
+other people; but their perception of humour is certainly not nearly so
+strong as that of our countrymen. Their ridicule is seldom excited by
+the awkward attempts of a stranger to speak their language, and as
+seldom by the inconsistencies which appear to us ludicrous in the dress
+and behaviour of their countrymen.
+
+These causes, operating gradually for a length of time, have probably
+produced that remarkable politeness of manners which is so pleasing to a
+stranger, in a number of the lower orders in France, and which appears
+so singular at the present time, as revolutionary ideas, military
+habits, and the example of a military court, have given a degree of
+roughness, and even ferocity, to the manners of many of the higher
+orders of Frenchmen, with which it forms a curious contrast. It is,
+however, in its relation to Englishmen at least, a fawning, cringing,
+interested politeness; less truly respectable than the obliging civility
+of the common people in England, and in substance, if not in appearance,
+still farther removed from the frank, independent, disinterested
+courtesy of the Scottish Highlanders.
+
+* * *
+
+Our entry into Boulogne was connected with several striking
+circumstances. To an Englishman, who, for many years, had heard of the
+mighty preparations which were made by the French in the port of
+Boulogne for the invasion of this country, the first view of this town
+could not but be peculiarly interesting. We accordingly got out of our
+_voiture_ as quickly as possible, and walked straight to the harbour.
+Here the first objects that presented themselves were, on one side, the
+last remains of the grand flotilla, consisting of a few hulks,
+dismantled and rotting in the harbour; on the other side, the Prussian
+soldiers drawn up in regiments on the beach. Nothing could have recalled
+to our minds more strongly the strength of that power which our country
+had so long opposed, nor the magnificent result which had at length
+attended her exertions. The forces destined for the invasion, and which
+were denominated by anticipation the army of England, had been encamped
+around the town. The characteristic arrogance--the undoubting
+anticipation of victory--the utter thoughtlessness--the unsinking
+vivacity of the French soldiery, were then at the highest pitch. Some
+little idea of the gay and light-hearted sentiments with which they
+contemplated the invasion of England, may be formed from the following
+song, which was sung to us with unrivalled spirit and gesticulation, as
+we came in sight of Boulogne, by our fellow-traveller, who had himself
+served in the army of England, and who informed us it was then commonly
+sung in the ranks.
+
+    SONG.
+
+    Francais! le bal va se r'ouvrir,
+    Et vous aimez la danse,
+    L'Allemande vient de finir,
+    Mais l'Anglaise commence.
+
+    D'y figurer tous nous Francais
+    Seront parbleu bien aises,
+    Car s'ils n'aiment pas les Anglais,
+    Ils aiment les Anglaises.
+
+    D'abord par le pas de Calais
+    Il faut entrer en danse,
+    Le son des instrumens Francais
+    Marquera la cadence;
+
+    Et comme les Anglais ne scanroient
+    Que danser les Anglaises,
+    Bonaparte leur montrera
+    Les figures Francaises.
+
+    Allons mes amis de grand rond,
+    En avant, face a face,
+    Francais le bas, restez d'a plomb,
+    Anglais changez les places.
+
+    Vous Monsieur Pitt vous balancez,
+    Formez la chaine Anglaise,
+    Pas de cote--croisez--chassez--
+    C'est la danse Francaise!
+
+The humour of this song depends on the happy application of the names of
+the French dances, and the terms employed in them, to the subjects on
+which it is written, the conclusion of the German campaigns, and the
+meditated invasion of England.
+
+The Prussians who were quartered at Boulogne, and all the adjoining
+towns and villages, belonged to the corps of General Von York. Most of
+the infantry regiments were composed in part of young recruits, but the
+old soldiers, and all the cavalry, had a truly military appearance; and
+their swarthy weather-beaten countenances, their coarse and patched, but
+strong and serviceable dresses and accoutrements, the faded embroidery
+of their uniforms, and the insignia of orders of merit with which almost
+all the officers, and many of the men, were decorated, bore ample
+testimony to their participation in the labours and the honours of the
+celebrated army of Silesia.
+
+Some of them who spoke French, when we enquired where they had been,
+told us, in a tone of exultation, rather than of arrogance, that they
+had entered Paris--"le sabre a la main."
+
+The appearance of the country is considerably better in Picardy than in
+Artois, but the general features do not materially vary until you reach
+the Oise. The peasantry seem to live chiefly in villages, through which
+the road passes, and the cottages composing which resemble those of
+Scotland more than of England. They are generally built in rows; many of
+them are white-washed, but they are very dirty, and have generally no
+gardens attached to them; and a great number of the inhabitants seem
+oppressed with poverty to a degree unknown in any part of Britain. The
+old and infirm men and women who assembled round our carriage, when it
+stopped in any of these villages, to ask for alms, appeared in the most
+abject condition; and so far from observing, as one English traveller
+has done, that there are few beggars in France, it appeared to us that
+there are few inhabitants of many of these country villages who are
+ashamed to beg.
+
+To this unfavourable account of the aspect of this part of France, there
+are, however, exceptions: We were struck with the beauty of the village
+of Nouvion, between Montreuil and Abbeville, which resembles strongly
+the villages in the finest counties of England: The houses here have all
+gardens surrounding them, which are the property of the villagers. In
+the neighbourhood of Abbeville, and of Beauvais, there are also some
+neat villages; and the country around these towns is rich, and well
+cultivated, and beautifully diversified with woods and vineyards; and,
+in general, in advancing southwards, the country, though still
+uninclosed, appears more fertile and better clothed. Many of the
+villages are surrounded with orchards, and long rows of fruit-trees
+extend from some of them for miles together along the sides of the
+roads; long regular rows of elms and Lombardy poplars are also very
+common, particularly on the road sides; and, in some places, chateaux
+are to be seen, the situation of which is generally delightful; but most
+of them are uninhabited, or inhabited by poor people, who do not keep
+them in repair; and their deserted appearance contributes even more than
+the straight avenues of trees, and gardens laid out in the Dutch taste,
+which surround them, to confirm the impression of _antiquity_ which is
+made on the mind of an Englishman, by almost all that he sees in
+travelling through France.
+
+The roads in this, as in many other parts of the country, are paved in
+the middle, straight, and very broad, and appear adapted to a much more
+extensive intercourse than now exists between the different provinces.
+
+The country on the banks of the Oise, (which we crossed at Beaumont),
+and from thence to Paris, is one of the finest parts of France. The
+road passes, almost the whole way, through a majestic avenue of elm
+trees: Instead of the continual recurrence of corn fields and fallows,
+the eye is here occasionally relieved by the intervention of fields of
+lucerne and saintfoin, orchards and vineyards; the country is rich, well
+clothed with wood, and varied with rising grounds, and studded with
+chateaux; there are more carriages on the roads and bustle in the inns,
+and your approach to the capital is very obvious. Yet there are strong
+marks of poverty in the villages, which contain no houses adapted to the
+accommodation of the middling ranks of society; the soil is richer, but
+the implements of agriculture, and the system of husbandry, are very
+little better than in Picardy: the cultivation, every where tolerable,
+is nowhere excellent; there are no new farm-houses or farm-steadings; no
+signs of recent agricultural improvements; and the chateaux, in general,
+still bear the aspect of desertion and decay.
+
+This last peculiarity of French scenery is chiefly owing to the great
+subdivision of property which has taken place in consequence of the
+confiscation of church lands, and properties of the noblesse and
+emigrants, and of the subsequent sale of the national domains, at very
+low or even nominal prices, to the lower orders of the peasantry. To
+such a degree has this subdivision extended, that in many parts of
+France there is no proprietor of land who does not labour with his own
+hands in the cultivation of his property. The influence of this state of
+property on the prosperity of France, and the gradual changes which it
+will undergo in the course of time, will form an interesting study for
+the political economist; but in the mean time, it will almost prevent
+the possibility of collecting an adequate number of independent and
+enlightened men to represent the landed interest of France in any system
+of national representation.
+
+In travelling from Calais to Paris, we did not observe so great a want
+of men in the fields and villages as we had been led to expect. The men
+whom we saw, however, were almost all above the age of the conscription.
+In several places we saw women holding the plough; but in general, the
+proportion of women to men employed in the fields, appeared hardly
+greater than may be seen during most of the operations of husbandry in
+the best cultivated districts of Scotland. On inquiry among the
+peasants, we found the conscription, and the whole of Bonaparte's system
+of government, held in much abhorrence, particularly among the women;
+yet they did not appear to feel it so deeply as we had anticipated; and
+of him, individually, they were more disposed to speak in terms of
+ridicule than of indignation. "Il est parti pour l'ile d'Elbe (said
+they)--bon voyage!" It was obvious that public affairs, even in those
+critical moments, occupied much less of their attention than of persons
+of the same rank in England: their spirits are much less easily
+depressed; and it was easy to see that their domestic affections are
+less powerful. The men shewed much jealousy of the allied troops: said
+they were superior to the French only in numbers; and often repeated,
+that one French soldier was equal to two Russians.
+
+Although the old men and women whom we saw in the villages were
+generally in the most abject condition, yet the labourers employed in
+the fields appeared nearly as well dressed as the corresponding class in
+England; their wages were stated to be, over most of the country, from
+one franc to 25 sous a-day, and in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris,
+to be as high as two, or even three francs. In some places, we saw them
+dining on bread, pork, and cyder; but the scarcity of live stock was
+such, that it was impossible to suppose that they usually enjoyed so
+good a fare. The interior of the cottages appeared, generally, to be ill
+furnished.
+
+Every village and town through which we passed between Boulogne and
+Paris contained a number of the allied troops. At Beauvais, a town
+remarkable for its singular appearance, being almost entirely built of
+wood, and likewise for the beauty of its cathedral, the choir of which
+is reckoned the finest in France, we were first gratified with the sight
+of some hundreds of Russians, horse and foot, under arms. These troops
+were of the finest description, and belonged to the corps of the
+celebrated Wigtenstein.
+
+We enquired of many of the lower people, in the towns and villages
+through which we passed, concerning the conduct of the allied troops in
+their quarters, and the answers were almost uniformly--from the men,
+"Ils se comportent bien;" (frequently with the addition, "mais ils
+mangent comme des diables:")--and from the women, "Ils sont de bons
+enfans." We had very frequent opportunities of remarking the truth of
+the observation, that "women have less bitterness against the enemies of
+their country than men." The Parisian ladies adopted fashions from the
+uniforms of almost all the allied troops whom they saw in Paris; many of
+them were exceedingly anxious for opportunities of seeing the Emperor of
+Russia, and the most distinguished leaders of the armies that had
+conquered France; and those who were acquainted with officers of rank
+belonging to these armies appeared, on all occasions, to be highly
+flattered with the attentions they received from them. The same was
+observable in the conduct of the lower ranks. In the suburbs of Paris,
+and in the neighbouring villages, where many of the allied troops were
+quartered, they appeared always on the best terms with the female
+inhabitants, and were often to be seen assisting them in their work,
+playing at the battledore and shuttlecock with them in the streets, or
+strolling in their company along the banks of the Seine, and through the
+woods of Belleville or St Cloud, evidently to the satisfaction of both
+parties. Much must be allowed for the national levity of the French; yet
+it may be doubted, whether the officers and soldiers of a victorious
+army are ever, in the first instance, very obnoxious to the females,
+even of a vanquished country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+PARIS--THE ALLIED ARMIES.
+
+
+To those whose attention had been long fixed on the great political
+revulsion which had brought the wandering tribes of the Wolga and the
+Don into the heart of France, and whose minds had been incessantly
+occupied for many months previous to the time of which we speak, (as the
+minds of almost all Englishmen had been), with wishes for the success,
+and admiration of the exploits, of the brave troops who then occupied
+Paris, it may naturally be supposed, that even all the wonders of that
+capital were, in the first instance, objects of secondary consideration.
+It was not until our curiosity had been satisfied by the sight of the
+Emperor Alexander, the Duke of Wellington, Marshal Blucher, Count
+Platoff, and such numbers of the Russian and Prussian officers and
+soldiers, as we considered a fair specimen of the whole armies, that we
+could find time to appreciate the beauties even of the Apollo and the
+Venus.
+
+The streets of Paris are always amusing and interesting, from the
+numbers and varieties of costumes and characters which they present; but
+at the time of which we speak, they might be considered as exhibiting an
+epitome of the greater part of Europe. Parties of Russian cuirassiers,
+Prussian lancers, and Hungarian hussars; Cossacks, old and young, from
+those whose beards were grey with age, to those who were yet beardless,
+cantering along after their singular fashion--their long lances poised
+on their stirrups, and loosely fastened to their right arms, vibrating
+over their heads; long files of Russian and Prussian foragers, and long
+trains of Austrian baggage waggons, winding slowly through the crowd;
+idle soldiers of all services, French as well as allied, lounging about
+in their loose great coats and trowsers, with long crooked pipes hanging
+from their mouths; patroles of infantry parading about under arms,
+composed half of Russian grenadiers, and half of Parisian national
+guards; Russian coaches and four, answering to the description of Dr
+Clarke, the postillions riding on the off-horses, and dressed almost
+like beggars; Russian carts drawn by four horses a-breast, and driven by
+peasants in the national costume; Polish Jews, with long black beards,
+dressed in black robes like the cassocks of English clergymen, with
+broad leathern belts--all mingled with the Parisian multitude upon the
+Boulevards: and in the midst of this indiscriminate assemblage, all the
+business, and all the amusements of Paris, went on with increased
+alacrity and fearless confidence. The Palais Royal was crowded, morning,
+noon, and night, with Russian and Prussian officers in full uniform,
+decorated with orders, whose noisy merriment, cordial manners, and
+careless profusion, were strikingly contrasted with the silence and
+sullenness of the French officers.
+
+It is fortunately superfluous for us to enlarge on the appearance, or on
+the character of the Emperor Alexander. We were struck with the
+simplicity of the style in which he lived. He inhabited only one or two
+apartments in a wing of the splendid Elysee Bourbon--slept on a leather
+mattress, which he had used in the campaign--rose at four in the
+morning, to transact business--wore the uniform of a Russian General,
+with only the medal of 1812, (the same which is worn by every soldier
+who served in that campaign, with the inscription, in Russ, _Non nobis
+sed tibi Domine_); had a French guard at his door--went out in a chaise
+and pair, with a single servant and no guards, and was very regular in
+his attendance at a small chapel, where the service of the Greek church
+was performed. We had access to very good information concerning him,
+and the account which we received of his character even exceeded our
+anticipation. His well-known humanity was described to us as having
+undergone no change from the scenes of misery inseparable from extended
+warfare, to which his duties, rather than his inclinations, had so long
+habituated him. He repeatedly left behind him, in marching with the
+army, some of the medical men of his own staff, to dress the wounds of
+French soldiers whom he passed on the way; and it was a standing order
+of his to his hospital staff, to treat wounded Russians and French
+exactly alike.
+
+His conduct at the battle of Fere Champenoise, a few days before the
+capture of Paris, of which we had an account from eye-witnesses, may
+give an idea of his conduct while with the armies. The French column,
+consisting of about 5000 infantry, with some artillery, was attacked by
+the advanced guard of the allies, consisting of cavalry, with some
+horse-artillery, under his immediate orders. It made a desperate
+resistance, and its capture being an object of great importance, he sent
+away all his guards, even the Cossacks, and exposed himself to the fire
+of musketry for a long time, directing the movements of the troops. When
+the French squares were at length broken by the repeated charges of
+cavalry and Cossacks, he threw himself into the middle of them, at a
+great personal risk, that he might restrain the fury of the soldiers,
+exasperated by the obstinacy of the resistance; and although he could
+not prevent the whole French officers and men from being completely
+pillaged, many of them owed their lives to his interference. The French
+commander was brought to him, and offered him his sword, which he
+refused to accept, saying, he had defended himself too well.
+
+The wife and children of a General who had been with the French army,
+were brought to him, and he placed a guard over them, which was
+overpowered in the confusion. The unfortunate woman was never more heard
+of, but he succeeded in recovering the children, had a bed made for them
+in his own tent, and kept them with him, until he reached Paris, when he
+ordered enquiry to be made for some of her relations, to whose care he
+committed them.
+
+He was uniformly represented to us as a man not merely of the most
+amiable dispositions, but of superior understanding, of uncommon
+activity, and of a firm decided turn of mind. Of the share which he
+individually had in directing the operations of the allied armies, we do
+not pretend to speak with absolute certainty; but we had reason to know,
+that the general opinion in the Russian army was, that the principal
+movements were not merely subjected to his control, but guided by his
+advice; and he was certainly looked upon, by officers who had long
+served under him, as one of the ablest commanders in the allied armies.
+
+He was much disconcerted, it was said, by the loss of the battle of
+Austerlitz; but his subsequent experience in war had given him the true
+military obstinacy, and he bore the loss of the battles of Lutzen and
+Bautzen with perfect equanimity; often saying, the French can still beat
+us, but they will teach us how to beat them; and we will conquer them by
+our _pertinacity_. The attachment of the Russian army, and especially of
+the guards, to him, almost approaches to idolatry; and the effect of his
+presence on the exertions and conduct of his troops, was not more
+beneficial to Europe while the struggle was yet doubtful, than to France
+herself after her armies were overthrown, and her "sacred territory"
+invaded.
+
+As a specimen of the general feeling in the Russian army at the time
+they invaded France, we may mention the substance of a conversation
+which an officer of the Russian staff told us he had held with a private
+of the Russian guard on the march, soon after the invasion. The soldier
+complained of the Emperor's proclamation, desiring them to consider as
+enemies only those whom they met in the field. "The French," said he,
+"came into our country, bringing hosts of Germans and Poles along with
+them;--they plundered our properties, burnt our houses, and murdered our
+families;--every Russian was their enemy. We have driven them out of
+Russia, we have followed them into Poland, into Germany, and into
+France; but wherever we go, we are allowed to find none but friends.
+This," he added, "is very well for us guards, who know that pillage is
+unworthy of us; but the common soldiers and Cossacks do not understand
+it; they remember how their friends and relations have been treated by
+the French, and that remembrance _lies at their hearts_."
+
+* * *
+
+We visited with deep interest the projecting part of the heights of
+Belleville, immediately overlooking the Fauxbourg St Martin, which the
+Emperor Alexander reached, with the king of Prussia, the Prince
+Schwartzenburg, and the whole general staff, on the evening of the 30th
+of March. It was here that he received the deputation from Marshals
+Marmont and Mortier, who had fought all day against a vast superiority
+of force, and been fairly overpowered, recommending Paris to the
+generosity of the allies. Thirty howitzers were placed on this height,
+and a few shells were thrown into the town, one or two of which, we were
+assured, reached as far as the Eglise de St Eustace; it is allowed on
+all hands that they fell within the Boulevards. The heights of
+Montmartre were at the same time stormed by the Silesian army, and
+cannon were placed on it likewise,--Paris was then at his mercy. After a
+year and a half of arduous contest, it was at length in his power to
+take a bloody revenge for the miseries which his subjects had suffered
+during the unprovoked invasion of Russia.--He ordered the firing to
+cease; assured the French deputation of his intention to protect the
+city; and issued orders to his army to prepare to march in, the next
+morning, in parade order. He put himself at their head, in company with
+the King of Prussia, and all the generals of high rank. After passing
+along the Boulevards to the Champs Elysees, the sovereigns placed
+themselves under a tree, in front of the palace of the Thuilleries,
+within a few yards of the spot where Louis XVI. and many other victims
+of the revolution had perished; and they saw the last man of their
+armies defile past the town, and proceed to take a position beyond it,
+before they entered it themselves.
+
+At this time, the recollection of the fate of Moscow was so strong in
+the Russian army, and the desire of revenge was so generally diffused,
+not merely among the soldiers, but even among the superior, officers,
+that they themselves said, nothing could have restrained them but the
+presence and positive commands of their Czar; nor could any other
+influence have maintained that admirable discipline in the Russian army,
+during its stay in France, which we have so often heard the theme of
+panegyric even among their most inveterate enemies.
+
+It is not in the columns of newspapers, nor in the perishable pages of
+such a Journal as this, that the invincible determination, the splendid
+achievements, and the generous forbearance of the Emperor of Russia and
+his brave army, during the last war, can be duly recorded; but when they
+shall have passed into history, we think we shall but anticipate the
+sober judgment of posterity by saying, that the foreign annals of no
+other nation, ancient or modern, will present, in an equal period of
+time, a spectacle of equal moral grandeur.
+
+* * *
+
+The King of Prussia was often to be seen at the Parisian theatres,
+dressed in plain clothes, and accompanied only by his son and nephew.
+The first time we saw him there, he was making some enquiries of a
+manager of the Theatre de l'Odeon, whom he met in the lobby; and the
+modesty and embarrassment of his manner were finely contrasted with the
+confident loquacity and officious courtesy of the Frenchman. He is known
+to be exceedingly averse to public exhibitions, even in his own country.
+He had gone through all the hardships and privations of the campaigns,
+had exposed himself with a gallantry bordering on rashness in every
+engagement, his son and nephew always by his side; his coolness in
+action was the subject of universal admiration; and it was not without
+reason that he had acquired the name of the first soldier in his army.
+His brothers, who are fine looking men, took the command of brigades in
+the Silesian army, and did the duty of brigadiers to the satisfaction of
+the whole army.
+
+* * *
+
+We had the good fortune of seeing the Duke of Wellington at the opera,
+the first time that he appeared in public at Paris. He was received with
+loud applause, and the modesty of his demeanour, while it accorded with
+the impressions of his character derived from his whole conduct, and the
+style of his public writings, sufficiently shewed, that his time had
+been spent more in camps than in courts. We were much pleased to find,
+that full justice was done to his merits as an officer by all ranks of
+the allied armies. On the day that he entered Paris, the watch-word in
+the whole armies in the neighbourhood was Wellington, and the
+countersign Talavera. We have often heard Russian and Prussian officers
+say, "he is the hero of the war:--we have conquered the French by main
+force, but his triumphs are the result of superior skill."
+
+* * *
+
+We found, as we had expected, that Marshal Blucher was held in the
+highest estimation in the allied army, chiefly on account of the
+promptitude and decision of his judgment, and the unconquerable
+determination of his character. We were assured, that notwithstanding
+the length and severity of the service in which he had been engaged
+during the campaign of 1814, he expressed the greatest regret at its
+abrupt termination; and was anxious to follow up his successes, until
+the remains of the French army should be wholly dispersed, and their
+leader unconditionally surrendered. An English gentleman who saw him at
+the time of the action in which a part of his troops were engaged at
+Soissons, a few days previous to the great battle at Laon, gave a
+striking account of his cool collected appearance on that occasion. He
+was lying in profound silence, wrapped up in his cloak, on the snow, on
+the side of a hill overlooking the town, smoking his pipe, and
+occasionally looking through a telescope at the scene of action. At
+length he rose up, saying, it was not worth looking at, and would come
+to nothing. In fact, the main body of the French army was marching on
+Rheims, and he was obliged to retire and concentrate his forces, first
+on Craon, and afterwards on Laon, before he could bring on a general
+action.
+
+He bore the fatigues of the campaign without any inconvenience, but fell
+sick on the day after he entered Paris, and resigned his command,
+requesting only of General Sacken, the governor of the town, that he
+would allot him lodgings from which he could look out upon Montmartre,
+the scene of his last triumph. He never appeared in public at Paris;
+but we had the pleasure of seeing him in a very interesting situation.
+We had gone to visit the Hotel des Invalides, and on entering the church
+under the great dome, we found this great commander, accompanied only by
+his son and another officer, leaning on the rails which encircle the
+monument of Turenne. We followed him into a small apartment off the
+church, where the bodies of Marshals Bessieres and Duroc, and the hearts
+of Generals Laroboissiere and Barraguay D'Hilliers, lay embalmed under a
+rich canopy of black velvet, in magnificent coffins, which were strewed
+with flowers every morning by the Duchess of Istria, the widow of
+Bessieres, who came thither regularly after mass. This room was hung
+with black, and lighted only by a small lamp, which burnt under the
+canopy, and threw its light in the most striking manner on the grey
+hairs and expressive countenance of the old Marshal, as he stood over
+the remains of his late antagonists in arms. He heard the name of each
+with a slight inclination of his head, gazed on the coffins for some
+moments in silence, and then turned about, and, as if to shew that he
+was not to be moved by his recollections, he strode out of the chapel
+humming a tune.
+
+He had vowed to recover possession of the sword of the great Frederic,
+which used to hang in the midst of the 10,000 standards of all nations
+that waved under the lofty dome of this building; but on the day that
+the allies entered Paris, the standards were taken down and burnt, and
+the sword was broken to pieces, by an order, as was said, from Maria
+Louisa.
+
+It is right to notice here, that the famous Silesian army which he
+commanded, consisted originally of many more Russian troops than
+Prussians,--in the proportion, we were told, of four to one, although
+the proportion of the latter was afterwards increased. Indeed it was at
+first the intention of the Emperor of Russia to put himself at the head
+of this army; but he afterwards gave up that idea, saying, that he knew
+the Russians and Prussians would fight well, and act cordially together;
+but that the presence of the Sovereigns would be more useful in keeping
+together the heterogeneous materials composing the army then forming in
+Bohemia, which afterwards had the name of the grand army.
+
+We have heard different opinions expressed as to the share which General
+Gneisenau, the chief of the staff of the Silesian army, had in directing
+the operations of that army. This General is universally looked on as an
+officer of first-rate merit, and many manoeuvres of great importance are
+believed to have been suggested by him; yet it was to the penetrating
+judgment and enthusiastic spirit of the old Marshal, that the officers
+whom we saw seemed most disposed to ascribe their successes.
+
+* * *
+
+We were much struck by the courteous and dignified manners of old Count
+Platoff. Even at that time, before he had experienced British
+hospitality, he professed high admiration for the British character,
+individual as well as national, saying, that he looked on every
+Englishman as his brother; and he was equally candid in expressing his
+detestation of the French, not even excepting the ladies. We, however,
+saw him receive one or two Frenchmen, who were presented to him by his
+friends, with his accustomed mildness. His countenance appeared to us
+expressive of considerable humour, and he addressed a few words to
+almost every Cossack of the guard whom he met in passing through the
+court of the Elysee Bourbon, which were always answered by a hearty
+laugh. During the two last campaigns of the war he had been almost
+constantly at head-quarters, and his advice, we were assured, was much
+respected.
+
+On the night after the battle of Borodino, Count Platoff, we were told,
+bivouacked on the field, in front of the position originally occupied by
+the Russians[1], and on the next day he covered their retreat with his
+Cossacks. One of the Princes of Hesse Philipsthal, an uncommonly
+handsome young man, who had volunteered to act as an aid-de-camp of his,
+had his leg shot away close to his side. Amputation was immediately
+performed above the middle of his thigh; he was laid on a peasant's
+cart, and carried 350 versts almost without stopping. However, he
+recovered perfectly, and petitioned the Emperor to be allowed to wear
+ever after the Cossack uniform. We saw him in it at Paris, going on
+crutches, but regretting in strong terms that he was to see no more
+fighting.
+
+On the day before the French entered Moscow, Count Platoff, and some
+other officers, from one of whom we had this anecdote, breakfasted with
+Count Rostapchin at his villa in the vicinity of the town, which it had
+been the delight of his life to cultivate and adorn. After breakfast,
+Count Rostapchin assembled his servants and retainers; and after saying
+that he hoped his son and latest descendants would always be willing to
+make a similar sacrifice for the good of their country, he took a torch,
+set fire to the building with his own hands, and waited until it was
+consumed. He then rode into the town to superintend the destruction of
+some warehouses full of clothes, of a number of carts, and of other
+things which might be useful to the enemy. But he did not, as we were
+assured by his son, whom we met at Paris, order the destruction of the
+town. The French, enraged at the loss of what was most valuable to them,
+according to the uniform account of the Russians, set fire in a
+deliberate and methodical manner to the different streets. It is but
+justice to say, however, that French officers, who had been at Moscow,
+denied the truth of the latter part of this statement.
+
+* * *
+
+The Russian troops in the neighbourhood of Paris were under the
+immediate command of General Count Miloradovitch, a man of large
+property, and unbounded generosity, and an enthusiast in his profession.
+He had been in the habit of always making the troops under his command
+some kind of present on his birth-day. During the retreat of the French
+from Moscow, this day came round when he was not quite prepared for it.
+"I have no money here," said he to his soldiers; "but yonder," pointing
+to a French column, "is a present worthy of you and of me." This address
+was a prelude to one of the most successful attacks, made during the
+pursuit, on the French rear-guard.
+
+The other Russian commanders, whom we heard highly spoken of by the
+Russian officers whom we met, were, the Marshal commanding, Barclay de
+Tolly, in whose countenance we thought we could trace the indications of
+his Scotch origin;--he is an old man, and was commonly represented as
+"sage, prudent, tres savant dans la guerre."--Wigtenstein, who is much
+younger, and is designated as "ardent, impetueux, entreprenant,"
+&c.--Benigsen, who is an old man, but very active, and represented to be
+as fond of fighting as Blucher himself;--Count Langeron, and Baron
+Sacken, the commanders of corps in the Silesian army. The former is a
+French emigrant, but has been long in the Russian service, and highly
+distinguished himself. The latter is an old man, but very spirited, and
+highly esteemed for his honourable character: in his capacity of
+Governor of Paris, he gave very general satisfaction.--Woronzoff, who,
+as is well known, was educated in England, and who distinguished
+himself at Borodino, and in the army of the north of Germany, and
+afterwards in France under Blucher--Winzingerode, one of the best
+cavalry officers, formerly in the Austrian service--Czernicheff, the
+famous partisan, a gallant gay young man, whose characteristic activity
+is strongly marked in his countenance--Diebzitch, a young staff officer
+of the first promise, since promoted to the important situation of Chef
+de l'etat major--Lambert (of French extraction), and Yermoloff: This
+last officer commanded the guards when we were at Paris, and was
+represented as a man of excellent abilities, and of a most determined
+character.
+
+To shew the determined spirit of some of the Russian generals, we may
+mention an anecdote of one of them, which we repeatedly heard. On one
+occasion, the troops under the command of this general were directed to
+defile over a bridge, under a very heavy fire from the enemy. Observing
+some hesitation in their movements, he said, with perfect coolness, "If
+they don't go forward, I will take care they shall not come back;" and
+planted a battery of 12 pounders in their rear, pointing directly at the
+bridge, in view of which they forced the passage in the most gallant
+style.
+
+The spirit of emulation which prevailed in all ranks of the Russian
+army, during the war, was worthy of the cause in which they were
+engaged. The following anecdote, we think, deserves commemoration. Two
+officers of rank had aspired to the same situation in the army, and
+exerted all their influence to obtain it. The successful candidate had
+the command of the famous redoubt at Borodino, when it was carried by
+the French. The other, who had a subordinate command just behind it,
+immediately came up to him, and asked leave to retake it for him. No,
+replied he; if you go there, I must be along with you. They collected
+what force they could, entered the redoubt together, and regained it at
+the point of the bayonet; but the officer who originally commanded in it
+was killed by the side of his rival. The latter, immediately after the
+battle, was promoted to the situation which he had so ardently desired;
+but his enjoyment of it was long and visibly embittered by the
+recollection of the event to which he owed his appointment.
+
+The number of Russian prisoners taken by the French during the war was
+very trifling, and we were assured, that there was no instance in the
+whole course of it, of a single Russian battalion or squadron laying
+down its arms. The number of prisoners taken by the Cossacks alone,
+from the time when the French left Moscow until the passage of the
+Niemen, was 90,000, and the number of cannon 550. It is true that these
+were for the most part stragglers, and men unable to fight; but it must
+be remembered, that many of them could only have been overtaken in their
+flight by these hardy and enterprising troops. To prove the value of the
+service rendered by the Cossacks, it is only necessary to observe, that
+many of the officers who distinguished themselves most in all the
+campaigns, Platoff, Orloff Denizoff, Wasilchikoff, Czernicheff,
+Tettenborn, &c. commanded Cossacks almost exclusively, and attributed
+much of their success to the quality of their troops. Most of the
+Cossacks whom we saw appeared to be well disciplined, and had a truly
+military air; and we were told, that all the 83 regiments of Cossacks
+are at present in a state of tolerable discipline. We cannot go so far
+as Dr Clarke in praise of their cleanliness, but we often observed their
+native easy courtesy of manner; and there can be no doubt, as he
+observes, of their being a much handsomer race than the generality of
+Russians. Their figures are more graceful, and their features are
+higher, and approach often to the Roman style of countenance. One troop
+of the Cossacks of the guards, composed of those from the Black Sea,
+attracted our particular admiration; and the noble manly figures of the
+men, the elegant forms of the horses, and the picturesque appearance of
+the arms and uniforms of the whole body of Cossacks of the guard, were
+very striking. The hereditary Prince of Georgia was at Paris as one of
+the Colonels of this regiment, and his figure and countenance were such
+as might have rendered him remarkable even in his native country, in
+which the "human form divine" is understood to attain its highest
+perfection.
+
+The Cossacks were kept in good order when under the inspection of their
+officers; but during the campaigns, they were often obliged to act in
+patroles, two or three together, at a distance from their officers; and
+in these situations, it may be supposed that they would commit many
+excesses. Immediately after a battle, they plundered all they met, and
+at all times, and in all places, they looked on horses as fair game,
+insomuch that it was often remarked in the allied armies, that they
+believed horses to have been created for none but Cossacks. It was said,
+that almost every Cossack of the corps of Czernicheff was worth from L.
+300 to L. 400 in money and watches, which most of them spent much after
+the manner of British sailors.
+
+* * *
+
+Some idea of the expenditure of human life, during the campaign of 1812,
+may be formed from the following facts, which we had from unquestionable
+authority: The number of killed and wounded on both sides at the battle
+of Borodino, which did not extend from flank to flank more than three
+English miles, was ascertained to exceed 75,000 men. Eighteen thousand
+wounded Russians were dressed on the field, and sent off in carts. When
+the Russian army crossed the Niemen, in pursuit of the French, they left
+behind them 87,000 sick and wounded in hospitals, of which number 63,000
+were wounded. The whole number of human bodies, Russian and French, men,
+women, and children, which were collected and buried or burnt, after the
+retreat from Moscow to the Niemen, exceeded 300,000.
+
+The officers of the Russian medical staff spoke in terms of the utmost
+indignation of the conduct of the French medical staff, in deserting
+their charge on the approach of the Russian armies. A great part of the
+town of Wilna, and surrounding villages, had been converted into
+hospitals for the French army, and when the Russians arrived, they
+found these hospitals wholly deserted by the medical men. The sick (many
+of them labouring under infectious fevers), and the wounded, were
+huddled together, without provisions, attendants, or the slightest
+regard to their situation. The first step of the Russian officers who
+were entrusted with the care of these hospitals, was to employ a number
+of Jews to clear out the corpses, some of which had lain there for three
+weeks; and when these were collected and burnt, their number was found
+to exceed 16,000; the sick were then separated from the wounded; and as
+soon as order was re-established, the Emperor of Russia visited the
+hospitals himself, to be assured that every possible attention was paid
+to their surviving inmates.
+
+During the whole of the winter of 1812 and the year 1813, a typhus fever
+was very prevalent in the French army, and in many places, particularly
+on the fortresses on the Elbe, and in Frankfort and Mentz, it made
+dreadful ravages; but it never extended, to any considerable degree,
+among the Russians. This was partly owing, no doubt, to the influence of
+exciting passions on the constitutions of the men; but much must
+certainly be ascribed to the admirable arrangements of the Russian
+hospital staff, which, under the superintendance of our countryman, Sir
+James Wyllie, have attained, in a few years, a surprising degree of
+excellence. The state of the Russian hospitals at Paris, under the
+direction of another countryman, Dr Crichton, was universally admired.
+
+The Russian imperial guard is, we believe, the finest body of men in
+Europe; the whole number, when the regiments are all complete, is about
+30,000; but the effective men at Paris did not exceed 20,000. These are
+made up from time to time, by picked men from the whole army. The charge
+of one of the regiments of cuirassiers, 1000 strong, upon the Champ de
+Mars, was one of the finest sights imaginable. The clattering of the
+horses feet on hard ground, and the rattling of the armour, increasing
+as they advanced, exceeded the sound of the loudest thunder.
+
+Their horses are not so heavy as those of the English dragoons, but they
+have evidently more blood in them, and their power of bearing fatigues
+and privations is quite wonderful. We were told by the officer
+commanding one of these regiments, that almost all the horses we saw in
+Paris, in the finest possible condition, were on the Niemen when the
+French crossed it in 1812, and had borne the fatigues of the retreat to
+Moscow, and of the advance during the dreadful winter which had proved
+so fatal to the French army; as well as of the winter campaign of 1814
+in France, which was carried on, almost entirely, during frost and snow.
+The Russian soldiers bore the extreme cold of the former winter in a
+manner hardly less wonderful; we were assured that they were not more
+warmly clothed than the French; but they were accustomed to the climate,
+were comparatively well fed, and were animated by victory, while their
+antagonists were depressed by famine and despair.
+
+The equipment of the artillery of the guard is probably the completest
+in the world;--each gun of the horse artillery is followed by three
+tumbrils of ammunition, and the artillerymen being all mounted and
+armed, a battery of horse artillery is fitted to act in a double
+capacity. One of these batteries, of 12 pieces, on the march, with all
+its accompaniments, takes up fully half-a-mile of road.
+
+The regiments of infantry are of various strength; all are composed of
+the finest men, in point of strength and military appearance, but they
+appeared to us rather inadequately officered. Of the physical powers of
+this body of men, no better proof can be given, than their having
+marched, within 24 hours, on the 22d and 23d of March, a distance of 18
+leagues, or 54 miles, which they did at two marches, resting three
+hours, without any straggling. The occasion on which they most highly
+distinguished themselves was at Culm, where four regiments of them
+(about 8000 men) stopped, for two days, in the defiles of the Riesen
+Gebirge, the whole corps of Vandamme. The regiment Pavloffsky, who were
+made guards for their conduct at Borodino, attracted particular
+attention; they wear caps faced with brass, whence the French soldiers,
+who know them well, call them the Bonnets d'Or; and many of them
+preserve with much care the marks of the bullets by which these have
+been pierced.
+
+The Russian soldiers, at least of the guard, have almost universally
+dark complexions, their features are generally low, and their faces
+broad. The officers and soldiers of the Prussian guard, which is about
+8000 strong, and in an equally high state of discipline and equipment,
+are, on the whole, handsomer men, having generally fair hair, blue eyes,
+high features, and ruddy complexions.
+
+A great number of the Prussian officers have a fine expression of
+romantic enterprise in their countenances; and it is well known, that
+the whole Prussian nation, long oppressed by the presence of French
+armies, entered into the war with France with a spirit of energy and
+union that never was surpassed. The formation of the legion of
+revenge,--the desertion of all seminaries of education, by teachers as
+well as pupils,--the substitution of ornaments in iron, for gold and
+jewellery, by the ladies of Berlin and other towns, are striking
+instances of this popular feeling. The war-song, composed by a young
+student from Konigsberg, which was sung in the heat of battle by the
+regiment of volunteer hussars to which he belonged, and the author of
+which was basely slain by a French prisoner whom he had neglected to
+disarm,--to judge of it by a version which appeared in the newspapers,
+and by the enthusiasm with which the Prussians speak of it, is worthy of
+being translated by one of our noblest poets.
+
+All the nations of Germany have strong feelings of patriotism associated
+with the sight, and even with the name of the Rhine. When the Austrians,
+in one of the last actions of the campaign of 1813, carried the heights
+of Hockheim, in the neigbourhood of Mentz, and first came in sight of
+that river, they involuntarily halted, and stood for some minutes in
+silence; when the Prince Marshal coming up to know the cause of the
+delay, their feelings burst forth in peals of enthusiastic acclamation,
+as they again advanced to the charge. The Prussian corps of the army of
+Silesia, destined to force the passage of the river, assembled on the
+right bank on the evening of the 31st of December 1813, determined to
+begin the year with the conquest to which they had long aspired; and
+just at midnight the first boats pulled off from the shore, the oars
+keeping time to thousands of voices, who sung words adapted to a
+favourite national air by the celebrated Schlegel, the beginning of
+which is, literally translated, "The Rhine shall no longer be our
+boundary,--it is the great artery of Germany, and it shall flow through
+the heart of our empire."
+
+The Austrians whom we saw at Paris, were in general strong heavy looking
+men. Their cavalry were universally admired; but the Russians and
+Prussians complained much of the general dilatoriness of their
+movements, and in particular, of the quantity of baggage waggons with
+which their march was encumbered. Upon one occasion, some hundreds of
+these fell into the hands of the French, to the great amusement of the
+Russians. The Bavarians and Wirtembergers had the character, both in
+Russia and France, of fighting very hard, and plundering freely. This
+last accomplishment, as well as their military arrangements, they had
+learnt from the French; and their conduct in this respect in France
+itself, might be said to be actuated by a kind of poetical justice.
+
+* * *
+
+We were highly gratified by this review of the whole Russian and
+Prussian guard which we saw in the Bois de Boulogne and road to St
+Germain, on the 30th of May. They were drawn up in a single line,
+extending at least six miles. The allied Sovereigns, followed by the
+Princes of Russia, Prussia and France, the French Marshals, and all the
+leading officers of the allied armies, rode at full speed along the
+line; and the loud huzzas of the soldiers, which died away among the
+long avenues of elm trees, as the cloud of dust which enveloped them
+receded from the view, were inexpressibly sublime.
+
+The appearance of these troops on parade was such, that but for the
+traces which long exposure to all changes of weather had left on their
+countenances, it never could have been supposed that they had been
+engaged in long marches. They had always marched and fought in their
+great coats and small blue caps, carrying their uniforms in their
+knapsacks. On the night before they entered Paris, however, they put
+them on, and marched into the town in as fine parade order as that in
+which they had left Petersburg. The Parisians, who had been told that
+the allied armies were nearly annihilated, and only a wreck left,
+expressed their astonishment with their usual levity: "Au moins," said
+they, "C'est un beau debris."
+
+While the uniforms, arms, and accoutrements of these troops were in the
+highest order, they seemed to take a pride in displaying the worn and
+faded standards, torn by the winds and pierced with bullets, under which
+they had served during the whole campaigns. Their services might also be
+judged of from the medals of the year 1812, which almost all the
+Russians bore, and to which all without distinction of rank are
+entitled, who were exposed to the enemy's fire during that campaign; and
+from the insignia of various orders, which in both the services extend
+to privates as well as officers. The effect of these honorary rewards on
+the minds of the men is certainly very great; and it is perhaps to be
+regretted that there is no institution of the same kind in the British
+service. The spirit of our soldiers, as all the world knows, needs no
+such stimulus; but if a measure of this kind could in any degree gratify
+their military feelings, surely their country owes them the
+gratification; and what can be more pleasing to a soldier than to see
+his officers and his Sovereign proud to display honours which he shares
+along with them? The Russians appear to set a value on these medals and
+decorations, which clearly shews the wisdom of the policy by which they
+were granted. Almost every wounded soldier wears them even when lying in
+hospital, and in the hour which teaches the insignificance of all the
+titles of kings, and all the treasures of the universe, he still
+rejoices, that he can lay these testimonies of his valour and fidelity
+beside the small crucifix which he brought with him from his home, and
+which, with a superstition that accords better with the true military
+spirit than the thoughtless infidelity of the French, he has carried in
+his bosom through all the chances of war.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+PARIS--ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
+
+
+With whatever sentiments a stranger might enter Paris at the time we
+did, his feelings must have been the same with regard to the monuments
+of ancient magnificence, or of modern taste, which it contained. All
+that the vanity or patriotism of a long series of Sovereigns could
+effect for the embellishment of the capital in which they resided; all
+that the conquests of an ambitious and unprincipled Army could
+accumulate from the spoils of the nations whom they had subdued, were
+there presented to the eye of the stranger with a profusion which
+obliterated every former prejudice, and stifled the feelings of
+national emulation in exultation at the greatness of human genius.
+
+The ordinary buildings of Paris, as every traveller has observed, and as
+all the world knows, are in general mean and uncomfortable. The height
+and gloomy aspect of the houses; the narrowness of the streets, and the
+want of pavement for foot passengers, convey an idea of antiquity, which
+ill accords with what the imagination had anticipated of the modern
+capital of the French empire. This circumstance renders the admiration
+of the spectator greater when he first comes in sight of its _public
+edifices_; when he is conducted to the Place Louis Quinze, or the Pont
+Neuf, from whence he has a general view of the principal buildings of
+this celebrated capital. With the single exception of the view of London
+from the terrace of the Adelphi, there is no point in our own country
+where the effect of architectural design is so great as in the
+situations which have now been mentioned. The view from the former of
+these combines many of the most striking objects which Paris has to
+present. To the east, the long front of the Thuilleries rises over the
+dark mass of foliage which covers its gardens; to the south, the
+picturesque aspect of the town is broken by the varied objects which the
+river presents, and the fine perspective of the Bridge of Peace,
+terminating in the noble front of the palace of the Legislative Body; to
+the west, the long avenues of the Elysian Fields are closed by the
+pillars of a triumphal arch which Napoleon had commenced; while to the
+north, the beautiful facade of the Palace itself, leaves the spectator
+only room to discover at a greater distance the foundation of the Temple
+of Glory, which he had commenced, and in the execution of which he was
+interrupted by those ambitious enterprises to which his subsequent
+downfall was owing. To a painter's eye, the effect of the whole scene is
+increased by the rich and varied foreground which everywhere presents
+itself, composed of the shrubs with which the skirts of the square are
+adorned, and the lofty poplars which rise amidst the splendour of
+architectural beauty; while recent events give a greater interest to the
+spot from which this beauty is surveyed, by the remembrance, that it was
+here that Louis XVI. fell a martyr to the revolutionary principles, and
+that it was here that the Emperor Alexander and the other princes of
+Europe took their station, when their armies passed in triumph through
+the walls of Paris.
+
+The view from the Pont Neuf, though not so striking upon the whole,
+embraces objects of greater individual beauty. The gay and animated
+quays of the city covered with foot-passengers, and with all the varied
+exhibitions of industrious occupation, which, from the warmth of the
+climate, are carried on in the open air;--the long and splendid front of
+the Louvre and Thuilleries;--the bold projection of the Palais des Arts,
+of the Hotel de la Monnaie, and other public buildings on the opposite
+side of the river;--the beautiful perspective of the bridges, adorned by
+the magnificent colonnade which fronts the Palace of the Legislative
+Body;--and the lofty picturesque buildings of the centre of Paris
+surrounding the more elevated towers of Notre Dame, form a scene, which,
+though less perfect, is more striking, and more characteristic, than the
+scene from the centre of the Place Louis Quinze, which has been just
+described. It conveys at once a general idea of the French capital; of
+that mixture of poverty and splendour by which it is so remarkably
+distinguished; of that grandeur of national power, and that degradation
+of individual importance, which marked the ancient dynasty of the French
+nation. It marks too, in a historical view, the changes of the public
+feeling which the people of this country have undergone, from the
+distant period when the towers of Notre Dame rose amidst the austerity
+of Gothic taste, and were loaded with the riches of Catholic
+superstition, to that boasted aera, when the loyalty of the French people
+exhausted the wealth and the genius of the country, to decorate with
+classic taste the residence of their Sovereigns; and lastly, to those
+later days, when the names of religion and of loyalty have alike been
+forgotten; when the national exultation reposed only on the trophies of
+military greatness, and the iron yoke of imperial power was forgotten in
+the monuments which record the deeds of imperial glory.
+
+To the general observation on the inferiority of the common buildings in
+Paris, there are some remarkable exceptions. The Boulevards, the remains
+of the ancient ramparts of the city, are in general beautiful, from
+their circular form, from their uniform breadth, from the magnificence
+of the detached palaces with which they abound, and from the rows of
+fine trees with which they are shaded. In the skirts of the town, and
+more especially in the Fauxbourg St Germain, the beauty of the streets
+is greatly increased by the detached hotels or villas, surrounded by
+gardens, which are everywhere to be met with, in which the lilac, the
+laburnum, the Bois de Judee, and the acacia, grow in the most luxuriant
+manner, and on the green foliage of which the eye reposes with singular
+delight amidst the bright and dazzling whiteness of the stone with
+which they are surrounded.
+
+The Hotel des Invalides, the Chelsea Hospital of France, is one of the
+objects on which the Parisians principally pride themselves, and to
+which a stranger is conducted immediately after his arrival in that
+capital. The institution itself appears to be well conducted, and to
+give general satisfaction to the wounded men who have there found an
+asylum from the miseries of war. We were informed that these men live in
+habits of perfect harmony among each other; a state of things widely
+different from that of our veterans in Greenwich Hospital, and which is
+probably chiefly owing to the cheerfulness and equanimity of temper
+which form the best feature in the French character. There is something
+in the style of the architecture of this building, which accords well
+with the object to which it is devoted. The front is distinguished by a
+simple manly portico, and a dome of the finest proportion rises above
+its centre, which is visible from all parts of the city. This dome was
+gilded by order of Bonaparte: and however much a fastidious taste may
+regret the addition, it certainly gave an air of splendour to the whole,
+which was in perfect unison with the feelings of exultation which the
+sight of this monument of military glory was then fitted to awaken
+among the French people. The exterior of this edifice was formerly
+surrounded by cannon captured by the armies of France at different
+periods: and ten thousand standards, the trophies of victory during the
+wars of two centuries, waved under its splendid dome, and enveloped the
+sword of Frederic the Great, which hung from the centre, until the 31st
+of March 1814, when, as already observed, they were all burnt by order
+of Maria Louisa, to prevent their falling into the victorious hands of
+the allied powers.
+
+If the character of the architecture of the Hotel des Invalides accords
+well with the object to which that building is destined, the character
+of the Louvre is not less in unison with the spirit of the fine arts, to
+which it is consecrated. It is impossible for language to convey any
+adequate idea of the impression which this exquisite building awakens in
+the mind of a stranger. The beautiful proportions, and the fine symmetry
+of the great facade, give an air of simplicity to the distant view of
+this edifice, which is not diminished, on nearer approach, by the
+unrivalled beauty of its ornaments and detail; but when you cross the
+threshold of the portico, and pass under its noble archway into the
+inner-court, all considerations are absorbed in the throb of admiration
+which is excited by the sudden display of all that is lovely and
+harmonious in Grecian architecture. You find yourself in the midst of
+the noblest and yet chastest display of architectural beauty, where
+every ornament possesses the character by which the whole is
+distinguished, and where the whole possesses the grace and elegance
+which every ornament presents:--You find yourself on the spot where all
+the monuments of ancient art are deposited;--where the greatest
+exertions of mortal genius are preserved--and where a palace has at last
+been raised worthy of being the depository of the collected genius of
+the human race.--It bears a higher character than that of being the
+residence of imperial power; it seems destined to loftier purposes than
+to be the abode of earthly greatness; and the only forms by which its
+halls would not be degraded, are those models of ideal perfection which
+the genius of ancient Greece created to exalt the character of a heathen
+world.
+
+Placed in a more elevated spot, and destined to a still higher object,
+the Pantheon bears in its front the traces of the noble purpose for
+which it was intended.--It was intended to be the cemetery of all the
+great men who had deserved well of their country; and it bears the
+inscription, above its entrance, _Aux grands Hommes La Patrie
+reconnoissante_. The character of its architecture is well adapted to
+the impression it is intended to convey, and suits the simplicity of the
+inscription which its portico presents. Its situation has been selected
+with singular taste, to aid the effect which was thus intended. It is
+placed at the top of an eminence, which shelves in a declivity on every
+side; and the immediate approach is by an immense flight of steps, which
+form the base of the building, and increase the effect which its
+magnitude produces. Over the entrance is placed a portico of lofty
+pillars, finely proportioned, supporting a magnificent entablature of
+the simplest order; and the whole terminates in a dome of vast
+dimensions, forming the highest object in the whole city. The impression
+which every one must feel in crossing its threshold, is that of
+religious awe; the individual is lost in the greatness of the objects
+with which he is surrounded, and he dreads to enter what seems the abode
+of a greater Power, and to have been framed for the purposes of more
+elevated worship. The Louvre might have been fitted for the gay scenes
+of ancient sacrifice; it suits the brilliant conceptions of heathen
+mythology; and seems the fit abode of those ideal forms, in which the
+imagination of ancient times embodied their conception of divine
+perfection; but the Pantheon is adapted for a holier worship, and
+accords with the character of a purer belief; and the vastness and
+solitude of its untrodden chambers awaken those feelings of human
+weakness, and that sentiment of human immortality, which befit the
+temple of a spiritual faith.
+
+We were involuntarily led, by the sight of this great monument of sacred
+architecture in the Grecian style, to compare it with the Gothic
+churches which we had seen, and in particular with the Cathedral of
+Beauvais, the interior of which is finished with greater delicacy, and
+in finer proportions, than any other edifice of a similar kind in
+France. The impression which the inimitable choir of Beauvais produced,
+was widely different from that which we felt on entering the lofty dome
+of the Pantheon at Paris. The light pinnacles, the fretted roof, the
+aspiring form of the Gothic edifice, seemed to have been framed by the
+hands of aerial beings, and produced, even from a distance, that
+impression of grace and airiness which it was the peculiar object of
+this species of Gothic architecture to excite. On passing the high
+archway which covers the western door, and entering the immense aisles
+of the Cathedral, the sanctity of the place produces a deeper
+impression, and the grandeur of the forms awakens profounder feelings.
+The light of the day is excluded, the rays of the sun come mellowed
+through the splendid colours with Which the windows are stained, and
+cast a religious light over the marble pavement which covers the floor;
+while the eye reposes on the harmonious forms of the lancet windows, or
+is bewildered in the profusion of ornament with which the roof is
+adorned. The impression which the whole produces, is that of religious
+emotion, singularly suited to the genius of Christianity; if is seen in
+that obscure light which fits the solemnity of religious duty, and
+awakens those feelings of intense delight, which prepare the mind for
+the high strain of religious praise. But it is not the deep feeling of
+humility and weakness which is produced by the dark chambers and massy
+pillars of the Pantheon at Paris; it is not in the mausoleum of the dead
+that you seem to wander, nor on the thoughts of the great that have gone
+before you that the mind revolves; it is in the scene of thanksgiving
+that your admiration is fixed; it is with the emblems of Hope that your
+devotion is awakened, and with the enthusiasm of gratitude that the
+mind is filled. Beneath the gloomy roof of the Grecian Temple, the
+spirit is concentrated within itself: it seeks the repose which solitude
+affords, and meditates on the fate of the immortal soul; but it loves to
+follow the multitude into the Gothic Cathedral, to join in the song of
+grateful praise which peals through its lengthened aisles, and to share
+in the enthusiasm which belongs to the exercise of common devotion.
+
+The Cathedral of Notre Dame is the only Gothic building of note in
+Paris, and it is by no means equal to the expectations we had been led
+to form of it. The style of its architecture is not that of the finest
+Gothic; it has neither the exquisite lightness of ornament which
+distinguishes the summit of Gloucester Cathedral, nor the fine lancet
+windows which give so unrivalled a beauty to the interior of Beauvais,
+nor the richness of roof which covers the tombs of Westminster Abbey.
+Its character is that of massy greatness; its ornaments are rich rather
+than elegant, and its interior striking more from its immense size than
+the beauty of the proportion in which it is formed. In spite of all
+these circumstances, however, the Cathedral of Notre Dame produces a
+deep impression on the mind of the beholder; its towers rise to a
+stupendous height above all the buildings which surround them; while
+the stone of every other edifice is of a light colour, they alone are
+black with the smoke of centuries; and exhibit a venerable aspect of
+ancient greatness in the midst of the brilliancy of modern decoration
+with which the city abounds. Even the crowd of ornaments with which they
+are loaded, and the heavy proportion in which they are built, are
+forgotten in the effect which their magnitude produces; they suit the
+gloomy character of the building they adorn, and accord with the
+expression of antiquated power by which its aged forms are now
+distinguished.
+
+To those who have been accustomed to the form of worship which is
+established in Protestant countries, there is nothing so striking in the
+Catholic churches as the complete oblivion of rank, or any of the
+distinctions of established society, which there universally prevails.
+There are no divisions of seats, nor any places fixed for any particular
+classes of society. All, of whatever rank or station, kneel alike upon
+the marble pavement; and the whole extent of the church is open for the
+devotion of all classes of the people. You frequently see the poorest
+citizens with their children kneeling on the stone close to those of the
+highest rank, or the most extensive fortunes. This custom may appear
+painful to those who have been habituated to the forms of devotion in
+the English churches; but it produces an impression on the mind of the
+spectator which nothing in our service is capable of effecting. To see
+the individual form lost in the immensity of the objects with which he
+is surrounded; to see all ranks and ages blended in the exercise of
+common devotion; to see all distinction forgotten in the sense of common
+infirmity, suits the spirit of that religion which was addressed to the
+poor as well as to the rich, and fits the presence of that Being before
+whom all ranks are equal.
+
+Nor is it without a good effect upon the feelings of mankind, that this
+custom has formed a part of the Catholic service. Amidst that
+degradation of the great body of the people, which marks the greater
+part of the Catholic countries--amidst the insolence of aristocratic
+power, which the doctrines of the Catholic faith are so well suited to
+support, it is fitting that there should be some occasions on which the
+distinctions of the world should be forgotten; some moments in which the
+rich as well as the poor should be humbled before a greater power--in
+which they should be reminded of the common faith in which they have
+been baptized, of the common duties to which they are called, and the
+common hopes which they have been permitted to form.
+
+We had the good fortune to see high mass performed in Notre Dame, with
+all the pomp of the Catholic service, for the souls of Louis XVI. Marie
+Antoinette, and the Dauphin, on May 16, 1814, soon after the King's
+arrival in Paris. The Cathedral was hung with black in every part; the
+brilliancy of day wholly excluded, and it was lighted only by double
+rows of wax tapers, which burned round the coffins, placed in the centre
+of the choir. It was crowded to excess in every part; all the Marshals,
+Peers, and dignitaries of France, were stationed with the Royal Family
+near the centre of the Cathedral, and all the principal officers of the
+allied armies attended at the celebration of the service. The King was
+present, though without being perceived by the vast assembly by whom he
+was surrounded; and the Duchess d'Angouleme exhibited, in this
+melancholy duty, that mixture of firmness and sensibility by which her
+character has always been distinguished.
+
+It was said, that there were several persons present at this solemn
+service who had voted for the death of the King; and many of those
+assembled must doubtless have been conscious that they had been
+instrumental in the death of those for whose souls this solemn service
+was now performing. The greater part, however, of those whom we had an
+opportunity of observing, exhibited the symptoms of genuine sorrow, and
+seemed to participate in the solemnity with unfeigned devotion. The
+Catholic worship was here displayed in its utmost splendour; all the
+highest prelates of France were assembled to give dignity to the
+spectacle; and all that art could devise was exhausted to render the
+scene impressive in the eyes of the people. To us, however, who had been
+habituated to the simplicity of the English form, the variety of
+unmeaning ceremony, the endless gestures and unceasing bows of the
+clergy who officiated, destroyed the impression which the solemnity of
+the service would otherwise have produced. But though the service itself
+appeared ridiculous, the effect of the whole scene was sublime in the
+greatest degree. The black tapestry hung in heavy folds round the sides
+of the Cathedral, and magnified the impression which its vastness
+produced. The tapers which surrounded the coffins threw a red and gloomy
+light over the innumerable multitude which thronged the floor; their
+receding rays faintly illuminated the farther recesses, or strained to
+pierce the obscure gloom in which the summits of the pillars were lost;
+while the sacred music pealed through the distant aisles, and deepened
+the effect of the thousands of voices which joined in the strains of
+repentant prayer.
+
+Among the exhibitions of art to which a stranger is conducted
+immediately after his arrival in the French metropolis, there is none
+which is more characteristic of the disposition of the people than the
+_Musee des Monumens Francois_, situated in the Rue des Petits Angustins.
+This is a collection of all the finest sepulchral monuments from
+different parts of France, particularly from the Cathedral of St Denis,
+where the cemetery of the royal family had, from time immemorial, been
+placed. It is said by the French, that the collection of these monuments
+into one museum was the only means of preserving them from the fury of
+the people during the revolution; and certainly nothing but absolute
+necessity could have justified the barbarous idea of bringing them from
+the graves they were intended to adorn, to one spot, where all
+associations connected with them are destroyed. It is not the mere
+survey of the monuments of the dead that is interesting,--not the
+examination of the specimens of art by which they may be adorned;--it is
+the remembrance of the deeds which they are intended to record,--of the
+virtues they are destined to perpetuate,--- of the pious gratitude of
+which they are now the only testimony--above all, of the dust they
+actually cover. They remind us of the great men who formerly filled the
+theatre of the world,--they carry us back to an age which, by a very
+natural illusion, we conceive to have been both wiser and happier than
+our own, and present the record of human greatness in that pleasing
+distance when the great features of character alone are remembered, when
+time has drawn its veil over the weaknesses of mortality, and its
+virtues are sanctified by the hand of death. It is a feeling fitted to
+elevate the soul; to mingle the thoughts of death with the recollection
+of the virtues by which life had been dignified, and renovate in every
+heart those high hopes of religion which spring from, the grave of
+former virtue.
+
+All this delightful, this purifying illusion, is destroyed by the way in
+which the monuments are collected in the Museum at Paris. They are there
+brought together from all parts of France; severed from the ashes of the
+dead they were intended to cover; and arranged in systematic order to
+illustrate the history of the art whose progress they unfold. The tombs
+of all the Kings of France, of the Generals by whom its glory has been
+extended, of the statesmen by whom its power, and the writers by whom
+its fame has been established, are crowded together in one collection,
+and heaped upon each other, without any other connexion than that of the
+time in which they were originally raised. The Museum accordingly
+exhibits, in the most striking manner, the power of arrangement and
+classification which the French possess; it is valuable, as containing
+fine models of the greatest men whom France has produced, and exhibits a
+curious specimen of the progress of art, from its first commencement to
+the period of its greatest perfection; but it has wholly lost that deep
+and peculiar interest which belongs to the monuments of the dead in
+their original situation.
+
+Adjoining to the Museum, is a garden planted with trees, in which many
+of the finest monuments are placed; but in which the depravity of the
+French taste appears in the most striking manner. It is surrounded with
+houses, and darkened by the shade of lofty buildings; yet, in this
+gloomy situation, they have placed the tomb of Fenelon, and the united
+monument of Abelard and Eloise: profaning thus, by the barbarous
+affectation of artificial taste, and the still more shocking imitation
+of ancient superstition, the remains of those whose names are enshrined
+in every heart which can feel the beauty of moral excellence, or share
+in the sympathy with youthful sorrow.
+
+How different are the feelings with which an Englishman surveys the
+untouched monuments of English greatness!--and treads the floor of that
+venerable building which shrouds the remains of all who have dignified
+their native land--in which her patriots, her poets, and her
+philosophers, "sleep with her kings, and dignify the scene," which the
+rage of popular fury has never dared to profane, and the hand of
+victorious power has never been able to violate; where the ashes of the
+immortal dead still lie in undisturbed repose, under that splendid roof
+which covered the tombs of her earliest kings, and witnessed, from its
+first dawn, the infant glory of the English people.--Nor could the
+remembrance of the national monuments we have described, ever excite in
+the mind of a native of France, the same feeling of heroic devotion
+which inspired the sublime expression of Nelson, as he boarded the
+Spanish Admiral's ship at St Vincent's--"Westminster Abbey or Victory!"
+
+Though the streets in Paris have an aged and uncomfortable appearance,
+the form of the houses is such, as, at a distance, to present a
+picturesque aspect. Their height, their sharp and irregular tops, the
+vast variety of forms which they assume when seen from different
+quarters, all combine to render a distant view of them move striking
+than the long rows of uniform houses of which London is composed. The
+domes and steeples of Paris, however, are greatly inferior, both in
+number and magnificence, to those of the English capital.
+
+The gardens of the Thuilleries and the Luxembourg, of which the
+Parisians think so highly, and which are constantly filled with all
+ranks of citizens, are laid out with a singularity of taste, of which,
+in this country, we can scarcely form any conception. The straight
+walks--the clipt trees--the marble fountains--are fast wearing out in
+all parts of England; they are to be met with only round the mansions of
+ancient families, and even there are kept rather from the influence of
+ancient prejudice, or from the affection to hereditary forms, than from
+their coincidence with the present taste of the English people. They are
+seldom, accordingly, disagreeable, with us, to the eye of the most
+cultivated taste; their singularity forms a pleasing variety to the
+continued succession of lawns and shrubberies which is every where to be
+met with; and they are regarded rather as the venerable marks of
+ancient splendour, than as the barbarous affectation of modern
+distinction. In France, the native deformity of this taste appears in
+its real light, without the colouring of any such adventitious
+circumstances as conceal it in this country. It does not appear there
+under the softening veil of ancient manners; its avenues do not conduct
+to the decaying abode of hereditary greatness--its gardens do not mark
+the scenes of former festivity--its fountains are not covered with the
+moss which has grown for centuries. It appears as the model of present
+taste; it is considered as the indication of existing splendour; and
+sought after, as the form in which the beauty of Nature is now to be
+admired. All that association accordingly had blended in our minds with
+the style of ancient gardening in our own country, was instantly
+divested by its appearance in France; and we felt then the whole
+importance of that happy change in the national taste, whereby variety
+has been made to succeed to uniformity, and the imitation of nature to
+come in the place of the exhibition of art.
+
+In every country, and in every department of taste, the earliest object
+of art is, the display of the power of the artist; and it is in the last
+period of its improvements alone, that this miserable propensity is
+overcome. It is hence that the imitation of Nature is not what is at
+first attempted; that the forms which she presents are uniformly
+neglected, and the merit of the artist is thought to consist in such
+artificial designs as bear the most unequivocal marks of his individual
+dexterity. The forms of nature are every where to be met with--they are
+open to the most vulgar capacity; the power of art, therefore, it is at
+first thought, must be shown in the complete subjugation of natural
+form, or the complete abandonment of natural beauty. It is hence that
+florists uniformly take delight in double flowers and monsters, which
+are the farthest removed from the forms of nature; and it is hence that
+gardeners always evince so great an anxiety to conduct strangers to the
+most ridiculous contortion of natural form, which their domains can
+exhibit. There is nothing unnatural or vulgar in this propensity; it
+pervades all branches of taste at a certain stage of its progress, and
+all ranks of society, to whom a limited capacity of mind is granted. It
+is hence that every society exhibits examples of individuals, who aim at
+singularity of manners, merely that they may be different from the
+generality of mankind; it is hence that many persons, even of a
+cultivated mind, shut their eye to the charms of beauty in every
+department of taste, merely that they may display their own wretched
+vanity in criticising its imperfections; it is hence that painters
+select the moment of passion or exertion, for no other reason than for
+the display of their anatomical knowledge, or their skill in the
+delineation of extraordinary emotion; and that poets have so often
+neglected what is really pathetic in the scenes, either of nature or of
+man, to present the artificial conceptions of their learning or fancy.
+In all these instances, the degradation of taste arises from the vain
+anxiety of men to display the power of the artist, and their utter
+forgetfulness of the end of the Art.
+
+The remarkable characteristic of the taste of France is, that this love
+of artificial beauty continues with undiminished force, at a period
+when, in other nations, it has given place to a more genuine love for
+the beauty of nature. In them, the natural progress of refinement has
+led from the admiration of the art of imitation to the love of the
+subjects imitated. In France, this early prejudice, continues in its
+pristine vigour at the present moment: They never lose sight of the
+effort of the artist; their admiration is fixed not on the quality or
+object in nature, but on the artificial representation of it; not on the
+thing signified, but the sign. It is hence that they have such exalted
+ideas of the perfection of their artist David, whose paintings are
+nothing more than a representation of the human figure in its most
+extravagant and phrenzied attitudes; that they are insensible to the
+simple display of real emotion, but dwell with delight upon the vehement
+representation of it which their stage exhibits; and that, leaving the
+charming heights of Belleville, or the sequestered banks of the Seine,
+almost wholly deserted, they crowd to the stiff alleys of the Elysian
+Fields, or the artificial beauties of the gardens of Versailles.
+
+In the midst of Paris this artificial style of gardening is not
+altogether unpleasing; it is in unison, in some measure, with the
+regular character of the buildings with which it is surrounded; and the
+profusion of statues and marble vases continues the impression which the
+character of their palaces is fitted to produce. But at Versailles, at
+St Cloud, and Fountainbleau, amidst the luxuriance of vegetation, and
+surrounded by the majesty of forest scenery, it destroys altogether the
+effect which arises from the irregularity of natural beauty. Every one
+feels straight borders, and square porticoes and broad alleys, to be in
+unison with the immediate neighbourhood of an antiquated mansion; but
+they become painful when extended to those remoter parts of the
+grounds, when the character of the scene is determined by the rudeness
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+There are some occasions, nevertheless, on which the gardens of the
+Thuilleries present a beautiful spectacle, in spite of the artificial
+taste in which they are formed. From the warmth of the climate, the
+Parisians, of all classes, live much in the open air, and frequent the
+public gardens in great numbers during the continuance of the fine
+weather. In the evening especially, they are filled with citizens, who
+repose themselves under the shade of the lofty trees, after the heat and
+the fatigues of the day; and they then present a spectacle of more than
+ordinary interest and beauty. The disposition of the French suits the
+character of the scene, and harmonises with the impression which the
+stillness of the evening produces on the mind. There is none of that
+rioting or confusion by which an assembly of the middling classes in
+England is too often disgraced; no quarrelling or intoxication even
+among the poorest ranks, and little appearance of that degrading want
+which destroys the pleasing idea of public happiness. The people appear
+all to enjoy a certain share of individual prosperity; their intercourse
+is conducted with unbroken harmony, and they seem to resign themselves
+to those delightful feelings which steal over the mind during the
+stillness and serenity of a summer evening.
+
+Still more beautiful perhaps, is the appearance of this scene during the
+stillness of the night, when the moon throws her dubious rays over the
+objects of nature. The gardens of the Thuilleries remain crowded with
+people, who seem to enjoy the repose which universally prevails, and
+from whom no sound is to be heard which can break the stillness or
+serenity of the scene. The regularity of the forms is wholly lost in the
+masses of light and shadow that are there displayed; the foliage throws
+a chequered shade over the ground beneath, while the different vistas of
+the Elysian Fields are seen in that soft and mellow light by which the
+radiance of the moon is so peculiarly distinguished. After passing
+through these favourite scenes of the French people, we frequently came
+to small encampments of the allied troops in the remote parts of the
+grounds. The appearance of these bivouacks, composed of Cossack
+squadrons, Hungarian hussars, or Prussian artillery, in the obscurity of
+moonlight, and surrounded by the gloom of forest scenery, was beyond
+measure striking. The picturesque forms of the soldiers, sleeping on
+their arms under the shade of the trees, or half hid by the rude huts
+which they had erected for their shelter; the varied attitudes of the
+horses standing amidst the waggons by which the camp was followed, or
+sleeping beside the veterans whom they had borne through all the
+fortunes of war; the dark masses of the artillery, dimly discerned in
+the shades of night, or faintly reflecting the pale light of the moon,
+presented a scene of the most beautiful description, in which the rude
+features of war were softened by the tranquillity of peaceful life; and
+the interest of present repose was enhanced by the remembrance of the
+wintry storms and bloody fields through which these brave men had
+passed, during the memorable campaigns in which they had been engaged.
+The effect of the whole was increased by the perfect stillness which
+everywhere prevailed, broken only at intervals by the slow step of the
+sentinel, as he paced his rounds, or the sweeter sounds of those
+beautiful airs, which, in a far distant country, recalled to the Russian
+soldier the joys and the happiness of his native land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+ENVIRONS OF PARIS.
+
+
+St Cloud was the favourite residence of Bonaparte, and, from this
+circumstance, possesses an interest which does not belong to the other
+imperial palaces. It stands high, upon a lofty bank overhanging the
+Seine, which takes a bold sweep in the plain below; and the steep
+declivity which descends to its banks is clothed with magnificent woods
+of aged elms. The character of the scenery is bold and rugged;--the
+trees are of the wildest forms, and the most stupendous height, and the
+banks, for the most part, steep and irregular. It is here, accordingly,
+that the French gardening appears in all its genuine deformity; and that
+its straight walks and endless fountains display a degree of formality
+and art, destructive of the peculiar beauty by which the scene is
+distinguished. These gardens, however, were the favourite and private
+walks of the Emperor;--it was here that he meditated those schemes of
+ambition which were destined to shake the established thrones of
+Europe;--it was under the shade of this luxuriant foliage that he formed
+the plan of all the mighty projects which he had in contemplation;--it
+was in the splendid apartments of this palace that the Councils of
+France assembled, to revolve on the means of permanently destroying the
+English power:--It was here too, by a most remarkable coincidence, that
+his destruction was finally accomplished;--that the last convention was
+concluded, by which his second dethronement was completed;--and that the
+victorious arms of England dictated the terms of surrender to his
+conquered capital.
+
+When we visited St Cloud, it was the head-quarters of Prince
+Schwartzenberg; and the Austrian grenadiers mounted guard at the gates
+of the Imperial Palace. The banks of the Seine, below the Palace, were
+covered by an immense bivouack of Austrian troops, and the fires of
+their encampment twinkled in the obscurity of twilight amidst the low
+brushwood with which the sides of the river were clothed. The
+appearance of this bivouack, dimly discerned through the rugged stems of
+lofty trees, or half-hid by the luxuriant branches which obscured the
+view;--the picturesque and varied aspect of the plain covered with
+waggons, and all the accompaniments of military service;--the columns of
+smoke rising from the fires with which it was interspersed, and the
+innumerable horses crowded amidst the confused multitude of men and
+carriages, or resting in more sequestered spots on the sides of the
+river, with their forms finely reflected in its unruffled
+waters--presented a spectacle which exhibited war in its most striking
+aspect, and gave a character to the scene which would have suited the
+romantic strain of Salvator's mind.
+
+St Germain, though less picturesquely situated than St Cloud, presents
+features, nevertheless, of more than ordinary magnificence. The Palace,
+now converted into a school of military education by Napoleon, is a mean
+irregular building, though it possesses a certain interest, by having
+been long the residence of the exiled house of Stuart. The situation,
+however, is truly fitted for an imperial dwelling; it stands on the edge
+of a high bank overhanging the Seine, at the end a magnificent terrace,
+a mile and a half long, built on the projecting heights which edge the
+river. The walk along this terrace is the finest spectacle which the
+vicinity of Paris has to present. It is backed along its whole extent by
+the extensive forest of St Germain, the foliage of which overhangs the
+road, and in the recesses of which you can occasionally discern those
+beautiful peeps which form the peculiar characteristic of forest
+scenery. The steep bank which descends to the river is clothed with
+orchards and vineyards in all the luxuriance of a southern climate; and
+in front, there is spread beneath your feet the wide plain in which the
+Seine wanders, whose waters are descried at intervals through the woods
+and gardens with which its banks are adorned; while, in the farthest
+distance, the towers of St Denis, and the heights of Paris, form an
+irregular outline on the verge of the horizon. It is a scene exhibiting
+the most beautiful aspect of cultivated nature, and would have been the
+fit residence for a Monarch who loved to survey his subjects' happiness:
+but it was deserted by the miserable weakness of Louis XIV., because the
+view terminated in the cemetery of the Kings of France, and his
+enjoyment of it would have been destroyed by the thoughts of mortal
+decay.
+
+Versailles, which that monarch chose as the ordinary abode of his
+splendid Court, is less favourably situate for a royal dwelling, though
+the view from the great front of the palace is beautifully clothed with
+luxuriant woods. The palace itself is a magnificent building of great
+extent, loaded with the riches of architectural beauty, but destitute of
+that fine proportion and lightness of ornament, which spread so
+indescribable a charm over the Palace of the Louvre. The interior is in
+a state of lamentable decay, having been pillaged at the commencement of
+the revolutionary fury, and formed into a barrack for the republican
+soldiers, the marks of whose violence are still visible in the faded
+splendour of its magnificent apartments. They still shew, however, the
+favourite rooms of Marie Antoinette, the walls of which are covered with
+the finest mirrors, and some remains of the furniture are still
+preserved, which even the licentious fury of the French army seems to
+have been afraid to violate. The gardens on which all the riches of
+France, and all the efforts of art, were so long lavished, present a
+painful monument of the depravity of taste: but the _Petit Trianon_,
+which is a little palace built of marble, and surrounded by shrubberies
+in the English style, exhibits the genuine beauty of which the
+imitation of nature is susceptible. This palace contains a suite of
+splendid apartments, fitted up with singular taste, and adorned with a
+number of charming pictures; it was the favourite residence of Maria
+Louisa, and we were there shewn the drawing materials which she used,
+and some unfinished sketches which she left, in which, we were informed,
+she much delighted, and which bore the marks of a cultivated taste.
+
+We frequently enquired concerning the character and occupations of this
+Empress, at all the palaces where she usually dwelt, and uniformly
+received the same answer:--She was everywhere represented as cold,
+proud, and haughty in her manner, and unconciliating in her ordinary
+address. Her time was much spent in private, in the exercise of
+religious duty, or in needle-work and drawing; and her favourite seat at
+St Cloud was between two windows, from one of which she had a view over
+the beautiful woods which clothe the banks of the river, and from the
+other a distant prospect of the towers and domes of Paris.
+
+Very different was the character which belonged to the former Empress,
+the first wife of Bonaparte, Josephine: She passed the close of her life
+at the delightful retreat of Malmaison, a villa charmingly situated on
+the banks of the Seine, seven miles from Paris, on the road to St
+Germain. This villa had been her favourite residence while she continued
+Empress, and formed her only home after the period of her divorce;--here
+she lived in obscurity and retirement, without any of the pomp of a
+court, or any of the splendour which belonged to her former
+rank,--occupied entirely in the employment of gardening, or in
+alleviating the distresses of those around her. The shrubberies and
+gardens were laid out with singular beauty, in the English taste, and
+contained a vast variety of rare flowers, which she had for a long
+period been collecting. These shrubberies were to her the source of
+never-failing enjoyment; she spent many hours in them every day, working
+herself, or superintending the occupations of others; and in these
+delightful occupations seemed to return again to all the innocence and
+happiness of youth. She was beloved to the greatest degree by all the
+poor who inhabited the vicinity of her retreat, both for the gentleness
+of her manner, and her unwearied attention to their sufferings and their
+wants; and during the whole period of her retirement, she retained the
+esteem and affection of all classes of French citizens. The Emperor
+Alexander visited her repeatedly during the stay of the allied armies
+in Paris; and her death occasioned an universal feeling of regret,
+rarely to be met with amidst the corruption and selfishness of the
+French metropolis.
+
+There was something singularly striking in the history and character of
+this remarkable woman:--Born in a humble station, without any of the
+advantages which rank or education could afford, she was early involved
+in all the unspeakable miseries of the French revolution, and was
+extricated from her precarious situation only by being united to that
+extraordinary man, whose crimes and whose ambition have spread misery
+through every country of Europe: Rising through all the gradations of
+rank through which he passed, she everywhere commanded the esteem and
+regard of all those who had access to admire her private virtues; and
+when at length she was raised to the rank of Empress, she graced the
+imperial throne with all the charities and virtues of a humbler station.
+She bore, with unexampled magnanimity, the sacrifice of power and of
+influence which she was compelled to make: She carried into the
+obscurity of humble life all the dignity of mind which befitted the
+character of an Empress of France; and exercised, in the delightful
+occupations of country life, or in the alleviation of the severity of
+individual distress, that firmness of mind and gentleness of
+disposition, with which she had lightened the weight of imperial
+dominion, and softened the rigour of despotic power.
+
+The Forest of Fontainbleau exhibits scenery of a more picturesque and
+striking character than is to be met with in any other part of the north
+of France. It is situated 40 miles from Paris, on the great road to
+Rome, and the appearance of the country through which this road runs, is
+for the most part flat and uninteresting. It runs through a continued
+plain, in a straight line between tall rows of elm trees, whose lower
+branches are uniformly cut off for firewood to the peasantry; and
+exhibits, for the most part, no other feature than the continued riches
+of agricultural produce. At the distance of seven miles from the town of
+Fontainbleau, you first discern the forest, covering a vast ridge of
+rocks, stretching as far as the eye can reach, from right to left, and
+presenting a dark irregular outline on the surface of the horizon. The
+cultivation continues, with all its uniformity, to the very foot of the
+ridge; but the moment you pass the boundaries of the forest, you find
+yourself surrounded at once with all the wildness and luxuriance of
+natural scenery. The surface of the ground is broken and irregular,
+rising at times into vast piles of shapeless rocks, and enclosing at
+others small vallies, in which the wood grows in endless beauty,
+unblighted by the chilling blasts of northern climates. In these
+vallies, the oak, the ash, and the beech, exhibit the peculiar
+magnificence of forest scenery, while, on the neighbouring hills, the
+birch waves its airy foliage round the dark masses of rock which
+terminate the view. Nothing can be conceived more striking than the
+scenery which this variety of rock and wood produce in every part of
+this romantic forest. At times you pass through an unbroken mass of aged
+timber, surrounded by the native grandeur of forest scenery, and
+undisturbed by any traces of human habitation, except in those rude
+paths which occasionally open a passing view into the remoter parts of
+the forest. At others, the path winds through great masses of rock,
+piled in endless confusion upon each other, in the crevices of which the
+fern and the heath grow in all the luxuriance of southern vegetation;
+while their summits are covered by aged oaks of the wildest forms, whose
+crossing boughs throw an eternal shade over the ravines below, and
+afford room only to discern at the farthest distance the summits of
+those beautiful hills, on which the light foliage of the birch trembles
+in the ray of an unclouded sun, or waves on the blue of a summer
+heaven.
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the beautiful scenery of
+the Trosachs in Scotland, of Matlock in Derbyshire, or of the wooded
+Fells in Cumberland, it may afford some idea of the Forest of
+Fontainbleau, to say that it combines scenery of a similar description
+with the aged magnificence of Windsor Forest. Over its whole extent
+there are scattered many detached oaks of vast dimensions, which seem to
+be of an older race in the growth of the Forest,--whose lowest boughs
+stretch above the top of the wood which surrounds them,--and whose
+decayed summits afford a striking contrast to the young and luxuriant
+foliage with which their stems are enveloped. When we visited
+Fontainbleau, it was occupied by the old imperial guard, which still
+remained in that station after the abdication of Bonaparte; and we
+frequently met parties, or detached stragglers of them, wandering in the
+most solitary parts of the Forest. Their warlike and weather-beaten
+appearance; their battered arms and worn accoutrements; the dark plumes
+of their helmets, and the sallow ferocious aspect of their countenances,
+suited the savage character of the scenery with which they were
+surrounded, and threw over the gloom and solitude of the Forest that
+wild expression with which the genius of Salvator dignified the features
+of uncultivated nature.
+
+The town and palace of Fontainbleau are situate in a small plain near
+the centre of the forest, and surrounded on all sides by the rocky
+ridges with which it is everywhere intersected. The palace is a large
+irregular building, composed of many squares, and fitted up in the
+inside with the utmost splendour of imperial magnificence. We were there
+shewn the apartments in which Napoleon dwelt during his stay in the
+palace, after the capture of Paris by the allied troops; and the desk at
+which he always wrote, and where his abdication was signed. It was
+covered with white leather, scratched over in every direction, and
+marked with innumerable wipings of the pen, among which we perceived his
+own name, Napoleon, frequently written as in a very hurried and
+irregular hand; and one sentence which began, Que Dieu, Napoleon,
+Napoleon. The servants in the palace agreed in stating, that the
+Emperor's gaiety and fortitude of mind never deserted him during the
+ruin of his fortune; that he was engaged in his writing-chamber during
+the greater part of the day, and walked for two hours on the terrace, in
+close conversation with Marshal Ney. Several officers of the imperial
+guard repeated the speech which he made to his troops on leaving them
+after his abdication of the throne, which was precisely what appeared
+in the English newspapers. So great was the enthusiasm produced by this
+speech among the soldiers present, that it was received with shouts and
+cries of Vive l'Empereur, A Paris, A Paris! and when he departed under
+the custody of the allied Commissioners, the whole army wept; there was
+not a dry eye in the multitude who were assembled to witness his
+departure. Even the imperial guard, who had been trained in scenes of
+suffering from their first entry into the service--who had been inured
+for a long course of years to the daily sight of human misery, and had
+constantly made a sport of all the afflictions which are fitted to move
+the human heart, shared in the general grief; they seemed to forget the
+degradation in which their commander was involved, the hardships to
+which they had been exposed, and the destruction which he had brought
+upon their brethren in arms; they remembered him when he stood
+victorious on the field of Austerlitz, or passed in triumph through the
+gates of Moscow; and shed over the fall of their Emperor those tears of
+genuine sorrow which they denied to the deepest scenes of private
+suffering, or the most aggravated instances of individual distress. It
+is impossible not to regret that feelings so exalting to human nature
+should have been awakened by one who shared so little in their
+enthusiasm himself; that the sufferings of thousands should have been
+forgotten in the fate of one to whom the miseries of others never
+afforded a subject of regret; and that the only occasion on which
+generous sentiments were manifested by the French army, should have been
+the overthrow of that power by which their ambition and their wickedness
+had been supported.
+
+We had the good fortune to see the infantry of the old guard drawn up in
+line in the streets of Fontainbleau, and their appearance was such as
+fully answered the idea we had formed of that body of veteran soldiers,
+who had borne the French eagles through every capital of Europe. Their
+aspect was bold and martial; there was a keenness in their eyes which
+bespoke the characteristic intelligence of the French soldiers, and a
+ferocity in the expression of their countenances which seemed to have
+been unsubdued even by the unparalleled disasters in which their country
+had been involved. The people of the town itself complained in the
+bitterest terms of their licentious conduct, and repeatedly said, that
+they dreaded them more as friends than the Cossacks themselves as
+enemies. They seemed to harbour the most unbounded resentment against
+the people of this country; their countenances bore the expression of
+the strongest enmity as we walked along their line, and we frequently
+heard them mutter among themselves, in the most emphatic manner, _Sacre
+Dieu, voila des Anglois!_--Whatever the atrocity of their conduct,
+however, might have been, to the people of their own, as well as every
+other country, it was impossible not to feel the strongest emotion at
+the sight of the veteran soldiers whose exploits had so long rivetted
+the attention of all who felt an interest in the civilized world. These
+were the men who first raised the glory of the republican armies on the
+plains of Italy; who survived the burning climate of Egypt, and chained
+victory to the imperial standards at Jena, at Austerlitz, and at
+Friedland--who followed the career of victory to the walls of the
+Kremlin, and marched undaunted through the ranks of death amid the snows
+of Russia;--who witnessed the ruin of France under the walls of Leipsic,
+and struggled to save her falling fortune on the heights of Laon; and
+who preserved, in the midst of national humiliation, and when surrounded
+by the mighty foreign Powers, that undaunted air and unshaken firmness,
+which, even in the moment of defeat, commanded the respect of their
+antagonists in arms.
+
+Beyond the town of Fontainbleau, there rises a ridge of steep hills,
+which prevents any view in that direction into the distant parts of the
+forest. The road to their summit lies through the Imperial Gardens, and
+is surrounded by the artificial forms and regular walks which mark the
+character of the French gardening. When you reach the summit, however,
+the character of the scene instantly changes, and you pass at once into
+the utmost wildness of desolated nature. The foreground is broken by
+barren rock, or covered with the beautiful forms of the weeping birch;
+immediately below there lies a lonely valley, strewed with masses of
+grey stone, without the slightest trace of human habitation, while, in
+the farthest distance, the forest is discerned, clothing the sides of
+those broken ridges which rise in endless confusion on the surface of
+the horizon. At the moment when we reached this spot, the sun was
+setting in the west; the cold grey of the stone which covered the
+ravines was dimly discerned through the obscure light which the approach
+of night produced, while the rugged outline of the rocks beyond was
+projected in the deepest shadow on the bright light of the departing
+day.
+
+There is no scenery round Paris so striking as the forest of
+Fontainbleau, but the heights of Belleville exhibit nature in a more
+pleasing aspect, and are distinguished by features of a gentler
+character. Montmartre, and the ridge of Belleville, form those
+celebrated heights which command Paris on the northern side, and which
+were so obstinately contested between the allies and the French on the
+30th March 1814, previous to the capture of Paris by the allied
+Sovereigns. Montmartre is covered for the most part with houses, and
+presents nothing to attract the eye of the observer, except the
+extensive view which is to be met with at its summit. The heights of
+Belleville, however, are varied with wood, with orchards, vineyards, and
+gardens, interspersed with cottages and villas, and cultivated with the
+utmost care. There are few inclosures, but the whole extent of the
+ground is thickly studded with walnuts, fruit-trees, and forest timber,
+which, from a distance, give it the appearance of one continued wood. On
+a nearer approach, however, you find it intersected in every direction
+by small paths, which wind among the vineyards, or through the woods
+with which the hills are covered, and present at every turn those
+charming little scenes which form the peculiar characteristic of
+woodland scenery. The cottages half hid by the profusion of
+fruit-trees, or embosomed in the luxuriant woods with which they are
+everywhere surrounded, increase the interest which the scenery itself is
+fitted to produce: they combine the delightful idea of the peasant's
+enjoyment with the beauty of the spot on which his dwelling is placed;
+and awaken, in the midst of the boundless luxuriance of vegetable
+nature, those deeper feelings of moral delight, which spring from the
+contemplation of human happiness.
+
+To a northern eye, there is nothing so delightful as this luxuriance of
+vegetation, which rises amidst the warmth of southern climates. The
+sterile rocks and rugged mountains of northern regions exhibit nature in
+her native rudeness, her features bear a harsher aspect, and her forms
+are expressive of more melancholy feeling; but under the genial warmth
+of a southern sun, she is arrayed in a robe of softer colours, and beams
+with the expression of a gentler character. She there appears surrounded
+by the luxuriance of vegetable life: she pours forth her bounty with a
+profusion which the partizans of utility would call prodigality, and
+covers the earth with a splendour of beauty, which serves no other
+purpose than to minister to the delight of human existence. Amidst the
+riches with which man is surrounded, his destiny appears happier than
+in more desolate situations; we forget the sufferings of the individual
+in the profusion of beauty with which he is surrounded; and impute to
+the inhabitants of these delightful regions, those feelings of happiness
+which spring in our own minds from the contemplation of the scenery in
+which they are placed.
+
+The effect of the charming scenery on the heights of Belleville is much
+increased by the distant objects which terminate some parts of the view.
+To the east, the high and gloomy towers of Vincennes rise over the
+beautiful woods with which the sides of the hill are adorned, and give
+an air of solemnity to the scene, arising from the remembrance of the
+tragic events of which it was the theatre. To the south, the domes and
+spires of Paris can occasionally be discovered through the openings of
+the wood with which the foreground is enriched, and present the capital
+at that pleasing distance, when the minuter part of the buildings are
+concealed, when its prominent features alone are displayed, and the
+whole is softened by the obscure light which distance throws over the
+objects of nature. To an English mind, the effect of the whole is
+infinitely increased, by the animating associations with which this
+scenery is connected;--by the remembrance of the mighty struggle between
+freedom and slavery, which was here terminated;--of the heroic deeds
+which were here performed, and the unequalled magnanimity which was here
+displayed. It was here that the expiring efforts of military despotism
+were overthrown--that the armies of Russia stood triumphant over the
+power of France, and nobly avenged the ashes of their own capital, by
+sparing that of their prostrate enemy.
+
+When we visited the heights of Belleville, the traces of the recent
+struggle were visibly imprinted on the villages and woods with which the
+hill is covered. The marks of blood were still to be discerned on the
+chaussee which leads through the village of Pantin; the elm trees which
+line the road were cut asunder, or bored through with cannon shot, and
+their stems riddled in many parts with the incessant fire of the grape
+shot. The houses in La Villette, Belleville and Pantin, were covered
+with the marks of musket shot; the windows of many were shattered, or
+wholly destroyed, and the interior of the rooms broken by the balls
+which seemed to have pierced every part of the buildings. So thickly
+were the houses in some places covered with these marks, that it
+appeared almost incredible how any one could have escaped from so
+destructive a fire. Even the beautiful gardens with which the slope of
+the heights are adorned, and the inmost recesses of the wood of
+Romainville, bore throughout the marks of the desperate struggles which
+they had lately witnessed, and exhibited the symptoms of fracture or
+destruction in the midst of the luxuriance of natural beauty; yet,
+though they had so recently been the scene of mortal combat; though the
+ashes of the dead yet lay in heaps on different parts of the field of
+battle, the prolific powers of nature were undecayed: the vines
+clustered round the broken fragments of the instruments of war,--the
+corn spread a sweeter green over the fields, which were yet wet with
+human blood, and the trees waved with renovated beauty over the
+uncoffined remains of the departed brave; emblematic of the decay of
+man, and of the immortality of nature.
+
+The French have often been accused of selfishness, and the indifference
+which they often manifest to the fate of their relations, affords too
+much reason to believe that the social affections have little permanent
+influence on their minds. We must, however, admit, that they exhibit in
+misfortunes of a different kind--in calamities which really press upon
+their own enjoyments of life, the same gaiety of heart, and the same
+undisturbed equanimity of disposition. That gaiety in misfortune, which
+is so painful to every observer, when it is to be found in the midst of
+family-distress, becomes delightful when it exists under the deprivation
+of the selfish gratification to which the individual had been
+accustomed. Both here, and in other parts of France, where the houses of
+the peasants had been wholly destroyed by the allied armies, we had
+occasion frequently to observe and admire the equanimity of mind with
+which these poor people bore the loss of all their property. For an
+extent of 30 miles in one direction, towards the North of Champagne,
+every house near the great road had-been burnt or pillaged for the
+firewood which it contained, both by the French and the allied armies,
+and the people were everywhere compelled to sleep in the open air. When
+we spoke to them on the subject of their losses, they answered with
+smiles, "Tout est detruit: tout est brule, tout, tout;" and seemed to
+derive amusement from the completeness of the devastation. The men were
+everywhere rebuilding their fallen walls, with a cheerfulness which
+never would have existed in England under similar circumstances; and the
+little children laboured in the gardens during the day, and slept under
+the vines at night, without exhibiting any signs of distress for their
+disconsolate situation. In many places, we saw groupes of these little
+children in the midst of the ruined houses, or under the shattered
+trees, playing with the musket shot, or trying to roll the cannon balls
+by which the destruction of their dwellings had been
+effected;--exhibiting a picture of youthful joy and native innocence,
+while sporting with the instruments of human destruction, which the
+genius of Sir Joshua Reynolds would have moulded into the expression of
+pathetic feeling, or employed as the means of moral improvement.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+PARIS--THE LOUVRE.
+
+
+To those who have had the good fortune to see the pictures and statues
+which were preserved in the Louvre, all description of these works must
+appear superfluous; and to those who have not had this good fortune,
+such an attempt could convey no adequate idea of the objects which are
+described. There is nothing more uninteresting than the catalogue of
+pictures which are to be found in the works of many modern travellers;
+nor any thing in general more ridiculous than the ravings of admiration
+with which this catalogue is described, and with which the reader in
+general is little disposed to sympathise. Without attempting,
+therefore, to enumerate the great works which were there to be met with,
+we shall confine ourselves to a simpler object, to the delineation of
+the _general character_ by which the different schools of painting are
+distinguished, and the great features in which they all differ from the
+sculpture of ancient times. For the justice of these observations, we
+must of course appeal to those who have examined this great collection;
+and in the prosecution of them, we pretend to nothing more than the
+simple account of the feelings which, we are persuaded, must have
+occurred to all those who have viewed it without any knowledge of the
+rules which art has established, or the more despicable principles which
+connoisseurs have maintained.
+
+For an attempt of this kind, the Louvre presented, singular advantages,
+from the unparalleled collection of paintings of every school and
+description which was there to be met with, and the facility with which
+you could trace the progress of the art from its first beginning to the
+period of its greatest perfection. And it is in this view that the
+collection of these works into one museum, however much to be deplored
+as the work of unprincipled ambition, and however much it may have
+diminished the impression which particular objects, from the influence
+of association, produced in their native place, was yet calculated, we
+conceive, to produce the greatest of all improvements in the progress of
+the art, by divesting particular schools and particular works of the
+unbounded influence which the effect of early association, or the
+prejudices of national feeling, have given them in their original
+situation, and placing them where their real nature is to be judged of
+by a more extended circle, and subjected to the examination of more
+impartial sentiments.
+
+The character of every school of painting has been determined by some
+peculiar circumstances under which that school first originated, which
+have contributed to form its greatest excellencies, and been the real
+source of its principal defects; and it has unfortunately happened, that
+the unbounded admiration for the great production of these schools has
+everywhere formed the national taste, and tended to perpetuate their
+errors, when the progress of society would otherwise have led to their
+earlier abandonment. It deserves well to be considered, therefore,
+whether the restoration of these monuments of art to their original
+situations, while it must unquestionably enhance the veneration with
+which they will severally be regarded, may not perpetuate the defects
+which particular circumstances have stamped on their school of
+composition; and whether the continuance of them in one vast collection,
+however fatal to the implicit veneration for the works of antiquity, was
+not calculated, by the comparison of their excellencies and the
+exhibition of their defects, to form a new school, possessed of a more
+general character, and adapted for the admiration of a more unbiassed
+public. It is in the despotic reign of arbitrary governments, if we may
+be allowed, in a discussion on matters of taste, to borrow an
+illustration from politics, that the influence of ancient error, and the
+power of ancient prejudice, is most unbounded; but it is in the
+unbiassed discussion which distinguishes a free state, that the
+influence of prejudice is forgotten, and truth emerges from the
+collision of opposite opinions. However this may be, it will not, it is
+hoped, be deemed an useless attempt, if we now endeavour to state, in a
+few words, the impression which was produced by this great collection of
+the works of art, which has been felt, we doubt not, by all who have
+viewed it with untutored eyes, but has not hitherto been described by
+those so much better able to do justice to it than ourselves.
+
+The first hall of the Louvre in the Picture Gallery is filled with
+paintings of the French school. The principal artists whose works are
+here exhibited are, Le Brun, Gaspar and Nicolas Poussin, Claude Lorrain,
+Vernet, and the modern painters Gerard and David. The general character
+of the school of French historical painting, is the expression of
+_passion and violent emotion_. The colouring is for the most part
+brilliant; the canvas crowded with figures, and the incident selected,
+that in which the painter might have the best opportunity of displaying
+his knowledge of the human frame, or the varied expression of the human
+countenance. In the pictures of the modern school of French painting,
+this peculiarity is pushed to an extravagant length, and, fortunately
+for the art, displays the false principles on which the system of their
+composition is founded. The moment seized is uniformly that of the
+strongest and most violent passion; the principal actors in the piece
+are represented in a state of phrenzied exertion, and the whole
+anatomical knowledge of the artist is displayed in the endless
+contortions into which the human frame is thrown. In David's celebrated
+picture of the three Horatii, this peculiarity appears in the most
+striking light. The works of this artist may excite admiration, but it
+is the limited and artificial admiration of the schools; of those who
+have forgot the end of the art in the acquisition of the technical
+knowledge with which it is accompanied, or the display of the technical
+powers which its execution involves.
+
+The paintings of _Vernet_, in this collection, are perhaps the finest
+specimens of that beautiful master, and they entitle him to a higher
+place in the estimation of mankind than he seems yet to have obtained
+from the generality of observers. There is a delicacy of colouring, an
+unity of design, and a harmony of expression in his works, which accord
+well with the simplicity of the subjects which his taste has selected,
+and the general effect which it was his object to produce. In the
+representation of the sun dispelling the mists of a cloudy morning; of
+his setting rays gilding the waves of a western sea; or of that
+undefined beauty which moonlight throws over the objects of nature, the
+works of this artist are perhaps unrivalled.
+
+The paintings of _Claude_ are by no means equal to what we had expected,
+from the celebrity which his name has acquired, or the matchless beauty
+which the engravings from him possess. They are but eleven in number,
+and cannot be in any degree compared with those which are to be found in
+Mr Angerstein's collection. To those, however, who have been accustomed
+to study the designs of this great master, through the medium of the
+engraved copies, and above all, in the unrivalled works of Woollet, the
+sight of the original pictures must, perhaps at all times, create a
+feeling of disappointment. There is an unity of effect in the engravings
+which can never be met with amidst the distraction of colouring in the
+original pictures; and the imagination clothes the beautiful shades of
+the copy with finer tints than even the pencil of Claude has been able
+to supply. "I have shewn you," said Corinne to Oswald, "St Peter's for
+the first time, when the brilliancy of its decorations might appear in
+full splendour, in the rays of the sun: I reserve for you a finer, and a
+more profound enjoyment, to behold it by the light of the moon." Perhaps
+there is a distinction of the same kind between the gaudy brilliancy of
+varied colours, and the chaster simplicity of uniform shadows; and it is
+probably for this reason, that on the first view of a picture which you
+have long admired in the simplicity of engraved effect, you
+involuntarily recede from the view, and seek in the obscure light and
+uncertain tint which distance produces, to recover that uniform tone and
+general character, which the splendour of colouring is so apt to
+destroy. It is a feeling similar to that which Lord Byron has so finely
+described, as arising from the beauty of moonlight scenery:--
+
+    ------"Mellow'd to that tender light
+    Which Heaven to gaudy day denies."
+
+The Dutch and Flemish school, to which you next advance, possesses
+merit, and is distinguished by a character of a very different
+description. It was the well-known object of this school, to present an
+exact and faithful _imitation of nature_; to exaggerate none of its
+faults, and enhance none of its excellencies, but exhibit it as it
+really appears to the eye of an ordinary spectator. Its artists
+selected, in general, some scene of humour or amusement, in the
+discovery of which, the most ignorant spectators might discover other
+sources of pleasure than those which the merit of the art itself
+afforded. They did not pretend, in general, to aim at the exhibition of
+passion or powerful emotion: their paintings, therefore, are free from
+that painful display of theatrical effect, which characterises the
+French school; their object was not to represent those deep scenes of
+sorrow or suffering, which accord with the profound feelings which it
+was the object of the Italian school to awaken; they want, therefore,
+the dignity and grandeur which the works of the greater Italian
+painters possess: their merit consists in the faithful delineation of
+those ordinary scenes and common occurrences, which are familiar to the
+eye of the most careless observer. The power of the painter, therefore,
+could be displayed only in the minuteness of the finishing, or the
+brilliancy of the effect; and he endeavoured, by the powerful contrast
+of light and shade, to give an higher character to his works, than the
+nature of their subject could otherwise admit.
+
+The pictures of Teniers, Ostade, and Gerard Dow, possess these merits,
+and are distinguished by this character in the highest degree; but their
+qualities are so well known in this country, as to render any
+observation on them superfluous. There is a very great collection here
+preserved of the works of Rembrandt, and their design and effect bear,
+in general, a higher character than belongs to most of the works of this
+celebrated master.
+
+In one respect, the collection in the Louvre is altogether
+unrivalled--in the number and beauty of the _Wouvermans_ which are there
+to be met with; nor is it possible, without having seen it, to
+appreciate, with any degree of justice, the variety of design, the
+accuracy of drawing, or delicacy of finishing, which distinguish his
+works from those of any other painter of a similar description. There
+are 38 of his pieces there assembled, all in the finest state of
+preservation, and all displaying the same unrivalled beauty of colouring
+and execution. In their design, however, they widely differ; and they
+exhibit, in the most striking manner, the real object to which painting
+should be applied, and the causes of the errors in which its composition
+has been involved. His works, for the most part, are crowded with
+figures; his subjects are in general battle-pieces, or spectacles of
+military pomp, or the animated scenes which the chace presents; and he
+seems to have exhausted all the efforts of his genius, in the variety of
+incident and richness of execution, which these subjects are fitted to
+afford. From the confused and indeterminate expression, however, which
+the multitude of their objects exhibit, we turn with delight to those
+simpler scenes in which his mind seems to have reposed, after the
+fatigues which it had undergone: to the representation of a single
+incident, or the delineation of a certain occurrence--to the rest of the
+traveller after the fatigues of the day--to the repose of the horse in
+the intermission of labour--to the return of the soldier after the
+dangers of the campaign;--scenes, in which every thing combines for the
+uniform character, and where the genius of the artist has been able to
+give to the rudest occupations of men, and even to the objects of animal
+life, the expression of general poetical feeling.
+
+The pictures of _Vandyke_ and _Rubens_ belong to a much higher school
+than that which rose out of the wealth and the limited taste of the
+Dutch people. There are 60 pieces of the latter of these masters in the
+Louvre, and, combined with the celebrated Gallery in the Luxembourg
+Palace, they form the finest assemblage of them which is to be met with
+in the world. The character of his works differs essentially from that
+both of the French and the Dutch schools; he was employed, not in
+painting cabinet pictures for wealthy merchants, but in designing great
+altar pieces for splendid churches, or commemorating the glory of
+sovereigns in imperial galleries. The greatness of his genius rendered
+him fit to attempt the representation of the most complicated and
+difficult objects; but in the confidence of this genius, he seems to
+have lost sight of the genuine object of composition in his art. He
+attempts what it is impossible for painting to accomplish--he aims at
+telling a whole story by the expression of a single picture; and seems
+to pour forth the profusion of his fancy, by crowding his canvas with a
+multiplicity of figures, which serve no other purpose than that of
+shewing the endless power of creation which the author possessed. In
+each figure there is great vigour of conception, and admirable power of
+execution; but the whole possesses no general character, and produces no
+permanent emotion. There is a mixture of allegory and truth in many of
+his greatest works, which is always painful; a grossness in his
+conception of the female form, which destroys the symmetry of female
+beauty; and a wildness of imagination in his general design, which
+violates the feelings of ordinary taste. You survey his pictures with
+astonishment--at the power of thought and brilliancy of colouring which
+they display; but they produce no lasting impression on the mind; they
+have struck no chord of feeling or emotion, and you leave them with no
+other feeling, than that of regret, that the confusion of objects
+destroys the effect which each in itself might be fitted to produce. And
+if one has made a deeper impression; if you dwell on it with that
+delight which it should ever be the object of painting to produce, you
+find that your pleasure proceeds from a single figure, or the expression
+of a detached part of the picture; and that, in the contemplation of it,
+you have, without being conscious of it, detached your mind from the
+observation of all that might interfere with its characteristic
+expression, and thus preserved that unity of emotion which is essential
+to the existence of the emotion of taste, but which the confusion of
+incident is so apt to destroy.
+
+A few landscapes by _Ruysdael_ are to be here met with, which are
+distinguished by that boldness of conception, fidelity of execution, and
+coldness of colouring, which have often been remarked as the
+characteristics of this powerful master.
+
+It is in the Italian school, however, that the collection in the Louvre
+is most unrivalled, and it is from its character that the general
+tendency of the modern school of historical painting is principally to
+be determined.
+
+The general object of the Italian school appears to be the expression of
+_passion_. The peculiar subjects which its painters were called on to
+represent, the sufferings and death of our Saviour, the varied
+misfortunes to which his disciples were exposed, or the multiplied
+persecutions which the early fathers of the church had to sustain,
+inevitably prescribed the object to which their genius was to be
+directed, and the peculiar character which their works, were to assume.
+They have all, accordingly, aimed at the expression of passion, and
+endeavoured to excite the pity, or awaken the sympathy of the spectator;
+though the particular species of passion which they have severally
+selected, has varied with the turn of mind which the artist possessed.
+
+The works of _Dominichino_ and of the _Caraccis_, of which there are a
+very great number, incline, in general, to the representation of what is
+dark or gloomy in character, or what is terrific and appalling in
+suffering. The subjects which the first of these masters has in general
+selected, are the cells of monks, the energy of martyrs, or the
+sufferings of the crucifixion; and the dark-blue coldness of his
+colouring, combined with the depth of his shadows, accord well with the
+gloomy character which his compositions possess. The _Caraccis_, amidst
+the variety of objects which their genius has embraced, have dwelt, in
+general, upon the expression of sorrow--of that deep and profound sorrow
+which the subjects of Sacred History were so fitted to afford, and which
+was so well adapted to that religious emotion which it was their object
+to excite.
+
+Guido Reni, Carlo Maratti, and Murillo, are distinguished by a gentler
+character; by the expression of tenderness and sweetness of
+disposition: and the subjects which they have chosen are, for the most
+part, those which were fitted for the display of this predominant
+expression--the Holy Family, the flight into Egypt, the youth of St
+John, the penitence of the Magdalene. While, in common with all their
+brethren, they have aimed at the expression of emotion, it was an
+emotion of a softer kind than that which arose from the energy of
+passion, or the violence of suffering; it was the emotion produced by
+more permanent feelings; and less turbulent affections; and from the
+character of this emotion, their execution has assumed a peculiar cast,
+and their composition been governed by a peculiar principle. Their
+colouring is seldom brilliant; there is a subdued tone pervading the
+greater part of their pictures; and they have limited themselves, in
+general, to the delineation of a single figure, or a small group, in
+which a single character of mind is prevalent.
+
+Of the numerous and splendid collection of _Titian's_ which are here
+preserved, it is not necessary to give any description, because they
+consist for the most part of portraits, and our object is not to dwell
+on the richness of colouring, or powers of execution, but on the
+principles of composition by which the different schools of painting
+are distinguished.
+
+There are only six paintings by Salvator Rosa in this collection, but
+they bear that wild and original character which is proverbially known
+to belong to the works of this great artist. One of his pieces is
+particularly striking, a skirmish of horse, accompanied by all the
+scenery in which he so peculiarly delighted. In the foreground is the
+ruins of an old temple, with its lofty pillars finely displayed in
+shadow above the summits of the horizon;--in the middle distance the
+battle is dimly discerned through the driving rain, which obscures the
+view; while the back ground is closed by a vast ridge of gloomy rocks,
+rising into a dark and tempestuous sky. The character of the whole is
+that of sullen magnificence; and it affords a striking instance of the
+power of great genius, to mould the most varied objects in nature into
+the expression of one uniform poetical feeling.
+
+Very different is the expression which belongs to the softer pictures of
+Correggio--of that great master, whose name is associated in every one's
+mind with all that is gentle or delicate in the imitation of nature.
+Perhaps it was from the force of this impression that his works did not
+completely come up to the expectations which we had been led to form.
+They are but eight in number, and do not comprehend the finest of his
+compositions. Their general character is that of tenderness and
+delicacy: there is a softness in his shading of the human form which is
+quite unrivalled, and a harmony in the general tone of his colouring,
+which is in perfect unison with the characteristic expression which it
+was his object to produce. You feel a want of unity, however, in the
+composition of his figures; you dwell rather on the fine expression of
+individual form, than the combined tendency of the whole group, and
+leave the picture with the impression of the beauty of a single
+countenance, rather than the general character of the whole design. He
+has represented nature in its most engaging aspect, and given to
+individual figures all the charms of ideal beauty; but he wants that
+high strain of spiritual feeling, which belongs only to the works of
+Raphael.
+
+The only work of Carlo Dolci in the Louvre is a small cabinet picture;
+but it alone is sufficient to mark the exquisite genius which its author
+possessed. It is of small dimensions, and represents the Holy Family,
+with the Saviour asleep. The finest character of design is here combined
+with the utmost delicacy of execution; the softness of the shadows
+exceeds Correggio himself; and the dark-blue colouring which prevails
+over the whole, is in perfect unison with the expression of that rest
+and quiet which the subject requires. The sleep of the Infant is
+perfection itself--it is the deep sleep of youth and of innocence, which
+no care has disturbed, and no sorrow embittered, and in the unbroken
+repose of which the features have relaxed into the expression of perfect
+happiness. All the features of the picture are in unison with this
+expression, except in the tender anxiety of the Virgin's eye; and all is
+at rest in the surrounding objects, save where her hand gently removes
+the veil to contemplate the unrivalled beauty of the Saviour's
+countenance.
+
+Without the softness of shading or the harmony of colour which Correggio
+possessed, the works of Raphael possess a higher character, and aim at
+the expression of a sublimer feeling, than those of any other artist
+whom modern Europe has produced. Like all his brethren, he has often
+been misled from the real object of of his art, and tried, in the energy
+of passion, or the confused expression of varied figures, to multiply
+the effect which his composition might produce. Like all the rest, he
+has failed in effecting what the constitution of the human mind renders
+impossible, and in this very failure, warned every succeeding age of the
+vanity of the attempt which his transcendent genius was unable to
+effect. It is this fundamental error that destroys the effect, even of
+his finest pieces; it is this, combined with the unapproachable nature
+of the presence which it reveals, that has rendered the Transfiguration
+itself a chaos of genius rather than a model of ideal beauty; nor will
+it, we hope, be deemed a presumptuous excess, if we venture to express
+our sentiments in regard to this great author, since it is from his own
+works alone that we have derived the means of appreciating his
+imperfections.
+
+It is in his smaller pieces that the genuine character of Raphael's
+paintings is to be seen--in the figure of St Michael subduing the demon;
+in the beautiful tenderness of the Virgin and Child; in the unbroken
+harmony of the Holy Family; in the wildness and piety of the infant St
+John;--scenes, in which all the objects of the picture combine for the
+preservation of one uniform character, and where the native fineness of
+his mind appears undisturbed by the display of temporary passion, or the
+painful distraction of varied suffering.
+
+There are no pictures of the English school in the Louvre, for the arms
+of France never prevailed in our island. From the splendid character,
+however, which it early assumed under the distinguished guidance of Sir
+Joshua Reynolds, and from the high and philosophical principles which he
+at first laid down for the government of the art, there is every reason
+to believe that it ultimately will rival the celebrity of foreign
+genius; And it is in this view that the continuance of the gallery of
+the Louvre was principally to be wished by the English nation--that the
+English artists might possess, so near their own country, so great a
+school for composition and design; that the imperfections of foreign
+schools might enlighten the views of English genius; and that the
+conquests of the French arms, by transferring the remains of ancient
+taste to these northern shores, might give greater facilities to the
+progress of our art, than can exist when they are restored to their
+legitimate possessors.
+
+The great object, then, of all the modern schools of historical
+painting, seems to have been, the delineation of an _affecting scene_ or
+_interesting occurrence_; they have endeavoured to tell a story by the
+variety of incidents in a single picture; and seized, for the most part,
+the moment when passion was at its greatest height, or suffering
+appeared in its most excruciating form. The general character,
+accordingly, of the school, is the expression of passion or violent
+suffering; and in the prosecution of this object, they have endeavoured
+to exhibit it under all its aspects, and display all the effects which
+it could possibly produce on the human form, by the different figures
+which they have introduced. While this is the general character of the
+whole, there are of course numerous exceptions; and many of its greatest
+painters seem, in the representation of single figures, or in the
+composition of smaller groups, to have had in view the expression of
+less turbulent affections; to have aimed at the display of settled
+emotion, or permanent feeling, and to have excluded every thing from
+their composition which was not in unison with this predominant
+expression.
+
+The _Sculpture Gallery_, which contains 220 remains of ancient statuary,
+marks, in the most decided manner, the different objects to which this
+noble art was applied in ancient times. Unlike the paintings of modern
+Europe, their figures are almost uniformly at rest; they exclude passion
+or violent suffering from their design; and the moment which they select
+is not that in which a particular or transient emotion may be
+displayed, but in which the settled character of mind may be expressed.
+With the two exceptions of the Laocoon and the Fighting Gladiator, there
+are none of the statues in the Louvre which are not the representation
+of the human figure in a state of repose; and the expression which the
+finest possess, is invariably that permanent expression which has
+resulted from the habitual frame and character of mind. Their figures
+seem to belong to a higher class of beings than that in which we are
+placed; they indicate a state in which passion, anxiety, and emotion are
+no more; and where the unruffled repose of mind has moulded the features
+into the perfect expression of the mental character. Even the
+countenance of the Venus de Medicis, the most beautiful which it has
+ever entered into the mind of man to conceive, and of which no copy
+gives the slightest idea, bears no trace of emotion, and none of the
+marks of human feeling; it is the settled expression of celestial
+beauty, and even the smile on her lip is not the fleeting smile of
+temporary joy, but the lasting expression of that heavenly feeling which
+sees in all around it the grace and loveliness which belongs to itself
+alone. It approaches nearer to that character which sometimes marks the
+countenance of female beauty; when death has stilled the passions of
+the world; but it is not the cold expression of past character which
+survives the period of mortal dissolution; it is the living expression
+of present existence, radiant with the beams of immortal life, and
+breathing the air of eternal happiness.
+
+The paintings of Raphael convey the most perfect idea of earthly beauty;
+and they denote the expression of all that is finest and most elevated
+in the character of the female mind. But there is a "human meaning in
+their eye," and they bear the marks of that anxiety and tenderness which
+belong to the relations of present existence. The Venus displays the
+same beauty, freed from the cares which existence has produced; and her
+lifeless eye-balls gaze upon the multitude which surround her, as on a
+scene fraught only with the expression of universal joy.
+
+In another view, the Apollo and the Venus appear to have been intended
+by the genius of antiquity, as expressive of the character of mind which
+distinguishes the different sexes; and in the expression of this
+character, they have exhausted all which it is possible for human
+imagination to produce upon the subject. The commanding air, and
+advanced step, of the Apollo, exhibit _Man_ in his noblest aspect, as
+triumphing over the evils of physical nature, and restraining the energy
+of instinctive passion by the high dominion of moral power: the averted
+eyes and retiring grace of the Venus, are expressive of the modesty,
+gentleness, and submission, which form the most beautiful features of
+the _female_ character.
+
+    Not equal, as their sex not equal seemed,
+    For valour He, and contemplation, formed,
+    For beauty She, and sweet attractive grace,
+    He for God only, She for God in Him.
+
+These words were said of our first parents by our greatest poet, after
+the influence of a pure religion had developed the real nature of the
+female character, and determined the place which woman was to hold in
+the scale of nature; but the idea had been expressed in a still finer
+manner two thousand years before, by the sculptors of antiquity; and
+amidst all the degradation of ancient manners, the prophetic genius of
+Grecian taste contemplated that ideal perfection in the character of the
+sexes, which was destined to form the boundary of human progress in the
+remotest ages of human improvement.
+
+The Apollo strikes a stranger with all its divine grandeur on the first
+aspect; subsequent examination can add nothing to the force of the
+impression which is then received; The Venus produces at first less
+effect, but gains upon the mind at every renewal, till it rivets the
+affections even more than the greatness of its unequalled
+rival--emblematic of the charm of female excellence, which, if it
+excites less admiration at first than the loftier features of manly
+character, is destined to acquire a deeper influence, and lay the
+foundation of more indelible affection.
+
+The Dying Gladiator is perhaps, after the two which we have mentioned,
+the finest statue which the Louvre contains. The moment chosen is finely
+adapted for that expression of ideal beauty, which may be produced even
+in a subject naturally connected with feelings of pain. It is not the
+moment of energy or struggling, when the frame is convulsed with the
+exertion it is making, or the countenance is deformed by the tumult of
+passion; it is the moment of expiring nature, when the figure is relaxed
+by the weakness of decay, and the mind is softened by the approach of
+death; the moment when the ferocity of combat is forgotten in the
+extinction of the interest which it had excited, when every unsocial
+passion is stilled by the weakness of exhausted nature, and the mind,
+in the last moments of life, is fraught with finer feelings than had
+belonged to the character of previous existence. It is a moment similar
+to that in which Tasso has so beautifully described the change in
+Clorinda's mind, after she had been mortally wounded by the hand of
+Tancred, but in which he was enabled to give her the inspiration of a
+greater faith, and the charity of a more gentle religion:--
+
+    Amico h'ai vinto: io te perdon. Perdona
+    Tu ancora, al corpo no che nulla pave
+    All'alma si: deh per lei prega; e dona
+    Battesme a me, ch'ogni mia colpa lave;
+    In queste voci languide risuona
+    Un non so che di flebile e soave
+    Ch'al cor gli scende, ed ogni sdegno ammorza,
+    Egli occhi a lagrimar gl'invoglia e sforza.
+
+The greater statues of antiquity were addressed to the worshippers in
+their temples; they were intended to awaken the devotion of all classes
+of citizens--to be felt and judged by all mankind. They were intended to
+express characters superior to common nature, and they still express
+them. They are free, therefore, from all the peculiarities of national
+taste; they are purified from all the peculiarities of local
+circumstances; they have been rescued from that inevitable degradation
+to which art is uniformly exposed, by taste being confined to a limited
+society; they have assumed, in consequence, that general character,
+which might suit the universal feelings of our nature, and that
+permanent expression which might speak to the hearts of men through
+every succeeding age. The admiration, accordingly, for those works of
+art, has been undiminished by the lapse of time; they excite the same
+feelings at the present time, as when they came fresh from the hand of
+the Grecian artist, and are regarded by all nations with the same
+veneration on the banks of the Seine, as when they sanctified the
+temples of Athens, or adorned the gardens of Rome.
+
+Even the rudest nations seem to have felt the force of this impression.
+The Hungarians and the Cossacks, as we ourselves have frequently seen,
+during the stay of the allied armies in Paris, ignorant of the name or
+the celebrity of those works of art, seemed yet to take a delight in the
+survey of the statues of antiquity; and in passing through the long line
+of marble greatness which the Louvre presents, stopt involuntarily at
+the sight of the Venus, or clustered round the foot of the pedestal of
+the Apollo;--indicating thus, in the expression of unaffected feeling,
+the force of that genuine taste for the beauty of nature, which all the
+rudeness of savage manners, and all the ferocity of war, had not been
+able to destroy. The poor Russian soldier, whose knowledge of art was
+limited to the crucifix which he had borne in his bosom from his native
+land, still felt the power of ancient beauty, and in the spirit of the
+Athenians, who erected an altar to the Unknown God, did homage in
+silence to that unknown spirit which had touched a new chord in his
+untutored heart.
+
+* * *
+
+From the impression produced on our minds by the collection in the
+Louvre, we were led to form some general conclusions concerning the
+history and object of the arts of Painting and Sculpture, which we shall
+presume to state, as what suggested themselves to us on the
+contemplation of the greatest assemblage of the works of art which has
+ever been formed; but which we give, at the same time, with the utmost
+diffidence, and merely as the result of our own feelings and
+reflections.
+
+The character of art in every country appears to have been determined by
+the _disposition of the people_ to whom it was addressed, and the
+object of its composition to have varied with the purpose it was called
+on to fulfil.--The Grecian statues were designed to excite the devotion
+of a cultivated people; to embody their conceptions of divine
+perfection; to realise the expression of that character of mind which
+they imputed to the deities whose temples they were to adorn: It was
+grace, or strength, or majesty, or the benignity of divine power, which
+they were to represent by the figures of Venus, of Hercules, of Jupiter,
+or of Apollo. Their artists accordingly were led to aim at the
+expression of _general character_; to exclude passion, or emotion, or
+suffering, from their design, and represent the figures in that state of
+repose where the permanent expression of mind ought to be displayed. It
+is perhaps in this circumstance that we are to discern the cause both of
+the peculiarity and the excellence of the Grecian statuary.
+
+The Italian painters were early required to effect a different object.
+Their pictures were destined to represent the sufferings of nature; to
+display the persecution or death of our Saviour, the anguish of the Holy
+Family, the heroism of martyrs, the resignation of devotion. In the
+infancy of the arts, accordingly, they were led to study the expression
+of passion, of suffering, and of temporary emotion; to aim at rousing
+the pity, or exciting the sympathy, of the spectators; and to endeavour
+to characterise their works by the representation of temporary passion,
+not the expression of permanent character. Those beautiful pictures in
+which a different object seems to have been followed--in which the
+expression is that of permanent emotion, not transient passion, while
+they captivate our admiration, seem to be exceptions from the general
+design, and to have been suggested by the peculiar nature of the subject
+represented, or a particular firmness of mind in the artist. In these
+causes we may perhaps discern the origin of the peculiar character of
+the Italian school.
+
+In the French school, the character and manners of the people seem to
+have carried this peculiarity to a still greater length. Their character
+led them to seek in every thing for stage effect; to admire the most
+extravagant and violent representations, and to value the efforts of
+art, not in proportion to their imitation of the expressions of nature,
+but in proportion to their resemblance to those artificial expressions
+on which their admiration was founded. The vehemence of their manner on
+the most ordinary occasions, rendered the most extravagant gestures
+requisite for the display of real passion; and their drama accordingly
+exhibits a mixture of dignity of sentiment, with violence of gesture,
+beyond measure surprising to a foreign spectator. The same disposition
+of the people has influenced the character of their historical painting;
+and it is to be remembered, that the French school of painting succeeded
+the establishment of the French drama. It is hence that they have
+generally selected the moment of theatrical effect--the moment of
+phrenzied passion, of unparalleled exertion, and that their composition
+is distinguished by so many striking contrasts, and so laboured a
+display of momentary effect.
+
+The Flemish or Dutch school of painting was neither addressed to the
+devotion nor the theatrical feelings of mankind; it was neither intended
+to awaken the sympathy of religious emotion, nor excite the admiration
+of artificial composition--it was addressed to wealthy men of vulgar
+capacities, whose taste advanced in no proportion to their riches, and
+who were capable of appreciating only the merit of minute detail, or the
+faithfulness of exact imitation. It is hence that their painting
+possesses excellencies and defects of so peculiar a description; that
+they have carried the minuteness of finishing to so unparalleled a
+degree of perfection; that the brilliancy of their lights has thrown a
+splendour over the vulgarity of their subjects; and that they are in
+general so utterly destitute of all the refinement and sentiment which
+sprung from the devotional feelings of the Italian people.
+
+The subjects which the Dutch painters chose were subjects of low humour,
+calculated to amuse a rich and uncultivated people; the subjects of the
+French school were heroic adventures, suited to the theatrical taste of
+a more elevated society; the subjects of the Italian school were the
+incidents of Sacred History, adapted to the devotional feelings of a
+religious people. In all, the subjects to which painting was applied,
+and the character of the art itself, was determined by the peculiar
+circumstances or disposition of the people to whom it was addressed: so
+that, in these instances, there has really happened what Mr Addison
+stated should ever be the case, that "the taste should not conform to
+the art, but the art to the taste."
+
+* * *
+
+We soon perceived that the statues rivetted our admiration more than any
+of the other works of art which the Louvre presents; and that amongst
+the pictures, those made the deepest impression which approached nearest
+to the character by which the Grecian statuary is distinguished. In the
+prosecution of this train of thought, we were led to the following
+conclusions, relative to the separate objects to which painting and
+statuary should be applied.
+
+1. That the object of Statuary should ever be the same to which it was
+always confined by the ancients, viz. the representation of CHARACTER.
+The very materials on which the sculptor has to operate, render his art
+unfit for the expression either of emotion or passion; and the figure,
+when finished, can bear none of the marks by which they are to be
+distinguished. It is a figure of cold, and pale, and lifeless marble,
+without the varied colour which emotion produces, or the living eye
+which passion animates. The eye is the feature which is expressive of
+present emotion; it is it which varies with all the changes which the
+mind undergoes; it is it which marks the difference between joy and
+sorrow, between love and hatred, between pleasure and pain, between life
+and death. But the eye, with all the endless expressions which it bears,
+is lost to the sculptor; its gaze must ever be cold and lifeless to him;
+its fire is quenched in the stillness of the tomb. A statue, therefore,
+can never be expressive of living emotion; it can never express those
+transient feelings which mark the play of the living mind. It is an
+abstraction of character which has no relation to common existence; a
+shadow in which all the permanent features of the mind are expressed,
+but none of the temporary passions of the mind are shewn; like the
+figures of snow, which the magic of Okba formed to charm the solitude of
+Leila's dwelling, it bears the character of the human form, but melts at
+the warmth of human feeling. The power of the sculptor is limited to the
+delineation of those signs alone by which the permanent qualities of
+mind are displayed: his art, therefore, should be confined to the
+representation of that permanent character of which they are expressive.
+
+2. While such is the object to which statuary would appear to be
+destined, Painting embraces a wider range, and is capable of more varied
+expression: It is expressive of the living form; it paints the eye and
+opens the view of the present mind; it imitates all the fleeting changes
+which constitute the signs of present emotion. It is not, therefore, an
+abstraction of character which the painter is to represent; not an ideal
+form, expressive only of the qualities of permanent character; but an
+actual being, alive to the impressions of present existence, and bound
+by the ties of present affection. It is in the delineation of these
+affections, therefore, that the powers of the painter principally
+consists; in the representation, not of simple character, but of
+character influenced or subdued by emotion. It is the representation of
+the joy of youth, or the repose of age; of the sorrow of innocence, or
+the penitence of guilt; of the tenderness of parental affection, or the
+gratitude of filial love. In these, and a thousand other instances, the
+expression of the emotion constitutes the beauty of the picture; it is
+that which gives the tone to the character which it is to bear; it is
+that which strikes the chord which vibrates in every human heart. The
+object of the painter, therefore, is the expression of EMOTION, of that
+emotion which is blended with the character of the mind which feels, and
+gives to that character the interest which belongs to the events of
+present existence.
+
+3. The object of the painter, being the representation of emotion in all
+the varied situations which life produces, it follows, that every thing
+in his picture should be in unison with the predominant expression which
+he wishes it to bear; that the composition should be as simple as is
+consistent with the developement of this expression; and the colouring
+such as accords with the character by which this emotion is
+distinguished. It is here that the genius of the artist is principally
+to be displayed, in the selection of such figures as suit the general
+impression which the whole is to produce; and the choice of such a tone
+of colouring, as harmonises with the feelings of mind which it is his
+object to awaken. The distraction of varied colours--the confusion of
+different figures--the contrast of opposite expressions, completely
+destroy the effect of the composition; they fix the mind to the
+observation of what is particular in the separate parts, and prevent
+that uniform and general emotion which arises from the perception of one
+uniform expression in all the parts of which it is composed. It is in
+this very perception, however, that the source of the beauty is to be
+found; it is in the undefined feeling to which it gives rise, that the
+delight of the emotion of taste consists. Like the harmony of sounds in
+musical composition, it produces an effect of which we are unable to
+give an account; but which we feel to be instantly destroyed by the
+jarring sound of a different note, or the discordant effect of a foreign
+expression. It is in the neglect of this great principle that the defect
+of many of the first pictures of modern times is to be found--in the
+confused multitude of unnecessary figures--in the contradictory
+expression of separate parts--in the distracting brilliancy of gorgeous
+colours; in the laboured display, in short, of the power of the artist,
+and the utter dereliction of the object of the art. The great secret, on
+the other hand, of the beauty of the most exquisite specimens of modern
+art, lies in the simplicity of expression which they bear, in their
+production of one uniform emotion, from all the parts of one harmonious
+composition. For the production of this unity of emotion, the surest
+means will be found to consist in the selection of _as few figures_ as
+is consistent with the developement of the characteristic expression of
+the composition; and it is, perhaps, to this circumstance, that we are
+to impute the unequalled charm which belongs to the pictures of single
+figures, or small groups, in which a single expression is alone
+attempted.
+
+4. The last principle of the art appeared to be, that both painting and
+sculpture are wholly unfit for the representation of PASSION, as
+expressed by motion; and that, to attempt to delineate it, necessarily
+injures the effect of the composition. Neither, it is clear, can express
+actual motion: they should not attempt, therefore, to represent those
+passions of the mind which motion alone is adequate to express. The
+attempt to delineate violent passion, accordingly, uniformly produces a
+painful or a ridiculous effect; it does not even convey any conception
+of the passion itself, because its character is not known by the
+expression of any single moment, but by the rapid changes which result
+from the perturbed state into which the mind is thrown. It is hence that
+passion seems so ridiculous when seen at a distance, or without the
+cause of its existence being known, and it is hence, that if a human
+figure were petrified in any of the stages of passion, it would have so
+painful or insane an appearance.--As painting, therefore, cannot exhibit
+the rapid changes in which the real expression of passion consists, it
+should not attempt its delineation at all. Its real object is, the
+expression of _emotion_, of that more settled state of the human mind
+when the changes of passion are gone--when the countenance is moulded
+into the expression of permanent feeling, and the existence of this
+feeling is marked by the permanent expression which the features have
+assumed.
+
+The greatest artists of ancient and modern times, accordingly, have
+selected, even in the representation of violent exertion, that moment of
+temporary repose, when a permanent expression is given to the figure.
+Even the Laocoon is not in the state of actual exertion: it is
+represented in that moment when the last effort has been made; when
+straining against an invincible power has given to the figure the aspect
+at last of momentary repose; and when despair has placed its settled
+mark on the expression of the countenance. The Fighting Gladiator is not
+represented in a state of actual activity, but in that moment when he is
+preparing his mind for the future and final contest, and when, in this
+deep concentration of his powers, the pause which the genius of the
+artist has given, expresses more distinctly to the eye of the spectator
+the determined character of the combatant, than all that the struggle or
+agony of the combat itself could afterwards display.
+
+The Grecian statues which were assembled in the Louvre may be considered
+as the most perfect works of human genius; and after surveying the
+different schools of painting which it contains, we could not but feel
+those higher conceptions of human form, and of human nature, which the
+taste of ancient statuary had formed. It is not in the moment of action
+that it has represented man, but in the moment after action, when the
+tumult of passion has ceased, and all that is great or dignified in
+moral nature remains; and the greatest works of modern art are those
+which approach nearest to the same principle. It is not Hercules in the
+moment of earthly combat, when every muscle was swollen with the
+strength he was exerting, that they represent; but Hercules in the
+moment of transformation into a nobler being, when the exertion of
+mortality has passed, and his powers seem to repose in the tranquillity
+of Heaven: not Apollo, when straining his youthful strength in drawing
+the bow; but Apollo, when the weapon was discharged, watching, with
+unexulting eye, its resistless course, and serene in the enjoyment of
+immortal power: not St Michael when struggling with the Demon, and
+marring the beauty of angelic form by the violence of earthly passion,
+but St Michael in the moment of unruffled triumph, restraining the might
+of Almighty power, and radiant with the beams of eternal mercy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+We do not by any means consider ourselves as qualified to enter fully
+into the interesting subject of the national character of the French;
+but we shall venture to state, in this place, what appeared to us its
+most striking peculiarities, particularly as it is observed at Paris.
+Our stay in the capital was too short, and our opportunities of
+observation too limited, to entitle us to speak with confidence; but it
+is to be remembered on the other hand, that there is a surprising
+uniformity of character among the French, which facilitates observation.
+The habit of constant intercourse in society, which constitutes their
+greatest pleasure, and has made them, in their own opinion, the most
+polished nation on earth, appears not merely to have assimilated their
+manners to one another, in the manner so finely illustrated by the
+celebrated simile of Sterne[2], but to have engendered a kind of
+conventional standard character, by which all those we observe are more
+or less modelled.
+
+The most striking and formidable part of their general character is, the
+_contempt for religion_ which is so frequently and openly expressed. In
+all countries there are men of a selfish and abstracted turn of mind,
+who are more disposed than others to religious argument and doubt; and
+in all, there are a greater number, whose worldly passions lead them to
+the neglect, or hurry them on to the violation of religious precepts;
+but a great nation, among whom a cool selfish regard to personal comfort
+and enjoyment has been deliberately substituted for religious feeling,
+and where it is generally esteemed reasonable and wise to oppose and
+wrestle down, by metaphysical arguments, the natural and becoming
+sentiments of piety, as they arise in the human breast, is hitherto, and
+it is to be hoped will long continue, an anomaly in the history of
+mankind.
+
+We heard it estimated at Paris, that 40,000 out of 600,000 inhabitants
+of that town attend church; one half of which number, they say, are
+actuated in so doing by real sentiments of devotion; but to judge from
+the very small numbers whom we have ever seen attending the regular
+service in any of the churches, we should think this proportion greatly
+overrated. Of those whom we have seen there, at least two-thirds have
+been women above fifty, or girls under fifteen years of age. In all
+Catholic countries, Sunday is a day of amusement and festivity, as well
+as of religion--but it is generally, also, one of relaxation from
+business: in Paris, we could see very little signs of the latter in the
+forenoons, but the amusements and dissipation of the capital were
+visibly increased in the evenings; and the Parisians have some reason
+for their remark, that their day of rest is changed to Monday, when the
+effect of their last night's dissipation wholly incapacitates them for
+exertion.
+
+It is clear, that it is quite absurd to attempt altering the manner of
+spending the Sundays at Paris, while the sentiments of the people, in
+regard to religion, continue such as at present; but it must be
+admitted, on the other hand, that their habits, as to the way of
+spending Sundays, re-act powerfully on their sentiments; and that the
+minds of the lower orders, in particular, are much debased by the want
+of what have been emphatically called "these precious breathing times
+for the labouring part of the community."
+
+Frenchmen of the higher ranks seem, at present, generally disposed to
+wave the subject of religion; but those of the middling ranks, by whom
+the business of the country is mainly carried on, do not scruple to
+express their contempt of it;--they applaud with enthusiasm all
+irreligious sentiments in the theatres, and seldom mention priests, of
+any persuasion, without the epithet of _sacres_.
+
+We were informed in Holland, that the Frenchmen who were sent to that
+country in official capacities, military or civil, manifested on all
+occasions the utmost contempt for religion. A French General, quartered
+in the house of a respectable gentleman in Amsterdam, inquired the
+reason, the first Sunday that he was there, of the family going out in
+their best clothes; and being told they were going to church, he
+expressed his surprise, saying,--"Now that you are a part of the great
+nation, it is time for you to have done with that nonsense."
+
+To an Englishman, who has been accustomed to see the ordinances of
+religion regularly observed by the great majority of his countrymen, the
+neglect of them by the French people appears very singular, and even
+unnatural. When we afterwards visited Flanders, and observed the
+manifest respect of the people for religion--when when saw the
+numberless handsome churches in the villages, and the frequent religious
+processions in the streets of the towns--when we entered the Great
+Cathedral at Antwerp, and found vast numbers of people, of both sexes,
+and all ranks and ages, on their knees, engaged, with the appearance of
+sincere devotion, in the solemn and striking service of vespers, we
+could not help saying among ourselves, that this people, for better
+reasons than mere political convenience, deserved to be separated from
+the French.
+
+Yet, we do not mean to say that the French are wholly, or even generally
+devoid of religious feeling; on the contrary, we believe it may often be
+seen to break out in a very striking manner, even in the conversation of
+those who are accustomed to think it wise to express contempt for it. A
+Frenchman, full of enthusiasm about the glory of his country, who was
+talking to us of the deeds and sufferings of the French army in Russia,
+concluded his description of the latter with these emphatic words: "Ah!
+Monsieur, Ce n'est pas les Russes; C'est _le bon Dieu_ qui a fait cela."
+
+* * *
+
+In point of _intellectual ability_, the French are certainly inferior to
+no other nation. They have not, perhaps, so frequently as others, that
+cool, sound judgment in matters of speculation, which can fit them for
+unravelling with success the perplexities of metaphysics; but their
+unparalleled success in mathematical pursuits is the best possible proof
+of the accuracy and quickness of their reasoning powers, when confined
+within due bounds. We do not refer to the astonishing efforts of such
+men as d'Alembert or La Place, but to the general diffusion of
+mathematical knowledge among all who receive a scientific education. It
+is not, perhaps, going too far to say, that few professors in Britain
+have an equally accurate and extensive knowledge of the integral and
+differential calculus, with some lads of 17 or 18, who have completed
+their education at the Ecole Polytechnique. Unless a man makes
+discoveries of his own in mathematics, he is little thought of as a
+mathematician by the men of science at Paris, even although he may be
+intimately versed in all the branches of that science as it stands.
+
+Under the Imperial Government, it was not considered safe to cultivate
+any sciences which relate to politics or morals; but the advancement of
+the physical and mathematical sciences in France during that time,
+sufficiently indicates that there has been no want of talents or
+industry.
+
+It may be remarked as a striking characteristic of the French scientific
+works, that they are almost always well arranged, and the meaning of the
+author fully and unequivocally expressed. A Frenchman does not always
+take a comprehensive view of his subject, but he seldom fails to take a
+clear view of it. The same turn of mind may be observed in the
+conversation of Frenchmen; even when their information is defective,
+they will very generally arrest attention by the apparent order and
+perspicuity of their thoughts; and they never seem to know what it is to
+be at a loss for words.
+
+Considering the great ingenuity and ability of the French, it seems not
+a little surprising that they should be so much behind our countrymen in
+useful and profitable arts, and that Englishmen should be so much struck
+with the apparent poverty of the greater part of France. This is in a
+great measure owing, no doubt, to the policy of the late French
+Government, which has directed all the energies of the nation towards
+military affairs; and to the abuses of the former government: but we
+think it must be ascribed in part to the character of the people. There
+is not the same co-operation of different individuals to one end, of
+private advantage and public usefulness; the same division of labour,
+intellectual as well as operative; the same hearty confidence between
+man and man, in France as in England. Men of talents in France are, in
+general, too much tainted with the national vanity, and too much
+occupied with their own fame, to join heartily in promoting the public
+interest. Individual intelligence, activity, and ingenuity, go but
+little way in making a nation wealthy and prosperous, if they are made
+to minister only to the individual pleasures and _glory_ of their
+possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+The _patriotism_ of the French is certainly a very strong feeling, but
+it appears to be much tainted with the same vanity and love of shew that
+we have just remarked. There can be no doubt, that during the time of
+Bonaparte's successes, he commanded, in a degree that no other Sovereign
+ever did, the admiration and respect of the great body of the people;
+and it is equally certain, that he did this without interesting himself
+at all in their happiness. His hold of them was by their national vanity
+alone. They assent to all that can be said of the miseries which he
+brought upon France; but add, "Mais il a battu tout le monde; il a fait
+des choses superbes a Paris; il a flatte notre orgeuil national. Ah!
+C'est un grand homme. Notre pays n'a jamais ete si grand ni si puissant
+que sous lui." The condition of the inhabitants of distant provinces was
+nowise improved by his public buildings and decorations at their
+capital; but every Frenchman considers a compliment to Paris, to the
+Louvre, to the Palais Royal, or the Opera, as a personal compliment to
+himself.
+
+At this moment, it is certainly a very general wish in France, to have
+a sovereign, who, as they express it, has grown out of the revolution;
+but when we enquire into their reason for this, it will often be found,
+we believe, to resolve itself into their national vanity. It is not that
+they think the Bourbons will break their word, or that the present
+Constitution will be altered without their consent; but after five and
+twenty years of confusion and bloodshed, they cannot bear the thoughts
+of leaving off where they began; and they think, that taking back their
+old dynasty without alteration, is practically acknowledging that they
+have been in the wrong all the time of their absence. We have often
+remarked (but we presume the remark is applicable to all despotic
+countries) that the French political conversation, such as is heard at
+caffes and tables d'hote, relates more to men, and less to measures, and
+appears to be more guided by personal attachments or antipathies, than
+that to which we are accustomed in England.
+
+The character that appears to be most wanted in France, is that of
+disinterested public-spirited individuals, of high honour and integrity,
+and of large possessions and influence, who do not interfere in public
+affairs from views of ambition, but from a sense of duty--who have no
+wish to dazzle the eyes of the multitude, and do not seek for a more
+extensive influence than that to which their observation and experience
+entitle them. While this character continues so much more frequent in
+our own country than among the French, it is perhaps in military affairs
+only that we need entertain any fear of their superiority. Englishmen of
+power and influence, generally speaking, have really at heart the _good_
+of their country, whereas Frenchmen, in similar situations, are chiefly
+interested in the _glory_ of theirs.
+
+It must also be observed, that public affairs occupy much less of the
+attention, and interfere much less with the happiness, of the majority
+of the French than of the English. There is less anxiety about public
+measures, and less gratitude for public services. We were often
+surprised at the indifference of the citizens of Paris with regard to
+their Marshals, whom they seldom knew by name, and did not seem to care
+for knowing. The peroration of an old lady, who had delivered a long
+speech to a friend of ours, then a prisoner at Verdun, lamenting the
+reverses of the French arms, and the miseries of France, was
+characteristic of the nation: "Mais, ce m'est egal. Je suis toujours ici."
+
+It is quite unnecessary for us to give proofs of the laxity of _moral
+principle_ which prevails so generally among the French. The world has
+not now to learn, that notwithstanding their high professions, they have
+but little regard either for truth or morality. According to Mr Scott,
+"they have, in a great measure, detached words from ideas and feelings;
+they can, therefore, afford to be unusually profuse of the better sort
+of the first; and they experience as much internal satisfaction and
+pride when they profess a virtue, as if they had practised one." Perhaps
+it would be more correct to say, that they have detached ideas and
+feelings from their corresponding actions. Their feelings have always
+been too violent for the moment, and too short in their duration, to
+influence their conduct steadily and permanently; but at present, they
+seem much disposed to think, that it is quite enough to have the
+feelings, and that there is no occasion for their conduct being
+influenced by them at all.
+
+They appear to have a strong natural sense of the beauty and excellence
+of virtue; but they are accustomed to regard it merely as a sense. It
+does not regulate their conduct to others, but adds to their own selfish
+enjoyments. They speak of virtue almost uniformly, not as an object of
+rational approbation and imitation, and still less as a rule of moral
+obligation, but as a matter of _feeling and taste_. A French officer,
+who describes to you, in the liveliest manner, and with all the
+appearance of unfeigned sympathy, the miseries and devastations
+occasioned by his countrymen among the unoffending inhabitants of
+foreign states, proceeds, in the same breath, to declaim with
+enthusiastic admiration on the untarnished honour of the French arms,
+and the great mind of the Emperor. A Parisian tradesman, who goes to the
+theatre that he may see the representation of integrity of conduct,
+conjugal affection, and domestic happiness, and applauds with enthusiasm
+when he sees it, shews no symptoms of shame when detected in a barefaced
+attempt to cheat his customers; spends his spare money in the Palais
+Royal, and sells his wife or daughter to the highest bidder.
+
+"Among the French," says the intelligent and judicious author of the
+Caractere des Armees Europeennes, "the seat of the passions is in the
+head--they feel rather from the fancy than the heart--their feelings are
+nothing more than thoughts."
+
+Another striking feature of the French character, connected with the
+preceding, is the openness, and even eagerness, with which they
+communicate all their thoughts and feelings to each other, and even to
+strangers. All Frenchmen seem anxious to make the most in conversation,
+not only of whatever intellectual ability they possess, but of whatever
+moral feelings they experience on any occasion;--they do not seem to
+understand why a man should ever be either ashamed or unwilling to
+disclose any thing that passes in his mind;--they often suspect their
+neighbours of expressing sentiments which they do not feel, but have no
+idea of giving them credit for feelings which they do not express.
+
+The French have many _good qualities_; they are very generally obliging
+to strangers, they are sober and good-tempered, and little disposed, in
+the ordinary concerns of life, to quarrel among themselves, and they
+have an amiable cheerfulness of disposition, which supports them in
+difficulties and adversity, better than the resolutions of philosophy.
+But it is clear that they have very little esteem for the most estimable
+of all characters, that of firm and enduring virtue; and in fact, it is
+not going too far to say, that a certain _propriety of external
+demeanour_ has completely taken the place of correctness of moral
+conduct among them. They speak almost uniformly with much abhorrence of
+drunkenness, and of all violations of the established forms of society;
+and such improprieties are very seldom to be seen among them. Many
+Frenchmen, as was already observed, are rough and even ferocious in
+their manners; and the language and behaviour of most of them,
+particularly in the presence of women, appears to us very frequently
+indelicate and rude; yet there are limits to this freedom of manner
+which they never allow themselves to pass. Go where you will in Paris,
+you will very seldom see any disgusting instances of intoxication, or
+any material difference of manner, between those who are avowedly
+unprincipled and abandoned, and the most respectable part of the
+community. In the caffes, which correspond not only to the
+coffee-houses, but to the taverns of London, you will see modest women,
+at all hours of the day, often alone, sitting in the midst of the men.
+In the Palais Royal, at no hour of the night do you witness scenes of
+gross indecency or riot.
+
+To an Englishman, it often serves as an excuse for vicious indulgences,
+that he is led off his feet by temptation. To a Frenchman, this excuse
+is the only crime; he stands in no need of an apology for vice; but it
+is necessary "qu'il se menage:" he is taught "qu'un peche cache est la
+moitie pardonne;" he must on no account allow, that any temptation can
+make him lose his recollection or presence of mind.
+
+We ought perhaps to admit likewise, that some of the vices common among
+the French are not merely less foul and disgusting in appearance, but
+less odious in their own nature, than those of our countrymen. We do not
+say this in palliation of their conduct. It is rather to be considered
+as a benevolent provision of nature, that in proportion as vice is more
+generally diffused, its influence on individual character is less fatal.
+This remark applies particularly to the case of women. A woman in
+England, who loses one virtue, knows that she outrages the opinion of
+mankind; she disobeys the precepts of her religion, and estranges
+herself from the examples which she has been taught to revere; she
+becomes an outcast of society; and if she has not already lost, must
+soon lose all the best qualities of the female character. But a French
+woman, in giving way to unlawful love, knows that she does no more than
+her mother did before her; if she is of the lower ranks, she is not
+necessarily debarred from honest occupation; if of the higher, she loses
+little or nothing in the estimation of society; if she has been taught
+to revere any religion, it is the Catholic, and she may look to
+absolution. Her conduct, therefore, neither implies her having lost, nor
+necessarily occasions her losing, any virtue but one; and during the
+course of the revolution, we have understood there have been many
+examples, proving, in the most trying circumstances, that not even the
+worst corruptions of Paris had destroyed some of the finest virtues
+which can adorn the sex. "Elles ont toujours des bons coeurs," is a
+common expression in France, in speaking even of the lowest and most
+degraded of the sex. In Paris, it is certainly much more difficult than
+in London to find examples in any rank of the unsullied purity of the
+female character; but neither is it commonly seen so utterly perverted
+and degraded; one has not occasion to witness so frequently the painful
+spectacle of youth and beauty brought by one rash step to shame and
+misery; and to lament, that the fairest gifts of heaven should become
+the bitterest of curses to so many of their possessors.
+
+* * *
+
+Having mentioned the French women, we think we may remark, without
+hazarding our character as impartial observers, that most of the faults
+which are so well known to prevail among them, may be easily traced to
+the manner in which they are treated by the other sex. It is a very
+common boast in France, that there is no other country in which women
+are treated with so much respect; and you can hardly gratify any
+Frenchman so much, as by calling France "le paradis des femmes." Yet,
+from all that we could observe ourselves, or learn from others, there
+appears to be no one of the boasts of Frenchmen which is in reality less
+reasonable. They exclude women from society almost entirely in their
+early years; they seldom allow them any vote in the choice of their
+husbands: After they have brought them into society, they seem to think
+that they confer a high favour on them, by giving them a great deal of
+their company, and paying them a great deal of attention, and
+encouraging them to separate themselves from the society of their
+husbands. In return for these obligations, they often oblige them to
+listen to conversation, which, heard as it is, from those for whom they
+have most respect, cannot fail to corrupt their minds as well as their
+manners; and they take care to let them see that they value them for the
+qualities which render them agreeable companions for the moment; not for
+the usefulness of their lives, for the purity of their conduct, or the
+constancy of their affections. Surely the respect with which all women
+who conduct themselves with propriety are treated in England, merely on
+account of their sex; the delicacy and reserve with which in their
+presence conversation is uniformly conducted by all who call themselves
+gentlemen, are more honourable tokens of regard for the virtues of the
+female character, than the unmeaning ceremonies and officious attentions
+of the French.
+
+The female inhabitants of our own country are distinguished of those of
+France, and probably of every other country, by a certain native,
+self-respecting, dignity of appearance and manner, which claims respect
+and attention as a right, rather than solicits them as a boon; and gives
+you to understand, that the man who does not give them is disgraced,
+rather than the woman who does not receive them. We believe it to be
+owing to the influence of the causes we have noticed, that this manner,
+so often ridiculed by the French, under the name of "hauteur" and
+"fierte Anglaise," is hardly ever to be seen among women of any rank in
+France. And to a similar influence of the tastes and sentiments of our
+own sex, it is easy to refer the more serious faults of the female
+character in that country.
+
+On the other hand, the better parts of the character of the French women
+are all their own. It is not certainly from the men that they have
+learnt those truly feminine qualities, that interesting humility and
+gentleness of manner, that pleasing gaiety of temper, and native
+kindness of disposition, to which it is very difficult, even for the
+proverbial coldness of northern critics, to apply terms of ridicule or
+reproach.
+
+* * *
+
+It is not easy for a stranger, in forming his opinion of the moral
+character of a people, to make allowance for the modification which
+moral sentiments undergo, in consequence of long habits, and
+adventitious circumstances. There is no quality which strikes a stranger
+more forcibly, in the character of the French of the middling and lower
+ranks, than their seeming dishonesty, particularly their uniformly
+endeavouring to extract more money for their goods or their services
+than they know to be their value. But we think too much stress has been
+laid on this part of their character by some travellers. It is regarded
+in France as a sort of professional accomplishment, without which it is
+in vain to attempt exercising a trade; and it is hardly thought to
+indicate immorality of any kind, more than the obviously false
+expressions which are used in the ordinary intercourse of society in
+England, or the license of denying oneself to visitors. That it should
+be so regarded is no doubt a proof of _national_ inferiority, and
+perhaps immorality; but while the general sentiments of the nation
+continue as at present, an instance of this kind cannot be considered as
+a proof of _individual_ baseness. An Englishman is apt to pronounce
+every man a scoundrel, who, in making a bargain, attempts to take him
+in; but he will often find, on a closer and more impartial examination,
+that the judgment formed by this circumstance alone in France, is quite
+erroneous. One of our party entered a small shop in the Palais Royal to
+buy a travelling cap. The woman who attended in it, with perfect
+effrontery, asked 16 francs for one which was certainly not worth more
+than six, and which she at last gave him for seven. Being in a hurry at
+the time, he inadvertently left on the counter a purse containing 20
+gold pieces of 20 francs each. He did not miss it for more than an hour:
+on returning to the shop, he found the old lady gone, and concluded at
+first, that she had absented herself to avoid interrogation; but to his
+surprise, he was accosted immediately on entering, by a pretty young
+girl, who had come in her place, with the sweetest smile
+imaginable,--"Monsieur, a oublie sa bourse--que nous sommes heureuses de
+la lui rendre."
+
+* * *
+
+It is certainly incorrect to say, that the _taste_ of the French is
+decidedly superior to that of other nations. Their poetry, on the whole,
+will not bear a comparison with the English; their modern music is not
+nearly so beautiful as their ancient songs, which have now descended to
+the lower ranks; their painting is in a peculiar and not pleasing style;
+their taste in gardening is antiquated and artificial; their
+architecture is only fine where it is modelled on the ancient; their
+theatrical tastes, if they are more correct than ours, are also more
+limited. We have already taken occasion more than once to reprobate the
+general taste of the French, as being partial to art, and brilliant
+execution, rather than to simplicity and beautiful design.
+
+But what distinguishes the French from almost every other nation, is the
+_general diffusion_ of the taste for the fine arts, and for elegant
+amusements, among all ranks of the people. Almost all Frenchmen take not
+only a pride, but an interest, in the public buildings of Paris, and in
+the collections of paintings and statues. There is a very general liking
+for poetry and works of imagination among the middling and lower ranks;
+they go to the theatres, not merely for relaxation and amusement, but
+with a serious intention of cultivating their taste, and displaying
+their critical powers. Many of them are so much in the habit of
+attending the theatres when favourite plays are acted, that they know
+almost every word of the principal scenes by heart. All their favourite
+amusements are in some measure of a refined kind. It is not in drinking
+clubs, or in sensual gratifications alone, that men of these ranks seek
+for relaxation, as its too often the case with us; but it is in the
+society of women, in conversation, in music and dancing, in theatres and
+operas, and caffes and promenades, in seeing and being seen; in short,
+in scenes resembling, as nearly as possible, those in which the higher
+ranks of all nations spend their leisure hours.
+
+While the useful arts are comparatively little advanced, those which
+relate to ornaments alone are very generally superior to ours; and the
+persons who profess these arts speak of them with a degree of fervour
+that often seems ludicrous. "Monsieur," says a peruquier in the Palais
+Royal, with the look of a man who lets you into a profound secret in
+science, "Notre art est un art imitatif; en effet, c'est un des beaux
+arts;" then taking up a London-made wig, and twirling it round on his
+finger, with a look of ineffable contempt, "Celui ci n'est pas la belle
+nature; mais voici la mienne,--c'est la nature personifiee!"
+
+One of the best proofs of the tastes of the lower ranks being, at least
+in part, cultivated and refined, is to be found in the songs which are
+common among the peasantry and soldiers. There are a great number of
+these, and some of them, in point of beauty of sentiment, and elegance
+of expression, might challenge a comparison even with the admired
+productions of our own land of song. The following is part of a song
+which was written in April 1814, and set to the beautiful air of Charles
+VII. It was popular among the description of persons to whom it relates;
+and the young man from whom we got it had himself returned home, after
+serving as a private in the young guard.
+
+
+LE RETOUR DE L'AMANT FRANCAIS.
+
+    De bon coeur je pose les armes;
+    Adieu le tumulte des camps,
+    L'amitie m'offre d'autres charmes,
+    Au sein de mes joyeux parents;
+    Le Dieu des Amants me rapelle,
+    C'est pour m'enroler a son tour;
+    Et je vais aupres de ma belle,
+    Servir sous les lois de l'amour.
+
+    Aux noms d'honneur et de patrie,
+    On m'a vu braver le trepas;
+    Aujourd'hui pour charmer ma vie
+    La paix fait cesser les combats.
+    Le Dieu des Amants, &c.
+
+After all that we had heard, and all that is known over the whole world,
+of the unbridled licentiousness and savage ferocity of the French
+soldiers, we were not a little surprised to find, that this and other
+songs written in good taste, and expressing sentiments of a kind of
+chivalrous elevation and refinement, were popular in their ranks.
+
+* * *
+
+The last peculiarity in the French character which we shall notice, is
+perhaps the most fundamental of the whole; it is their _love of mixed
+society_; of the society of those for whom they have no regard, but whom
+they meet on the footing of common acquaintances. This is the favourite
+enjoyment of almost every Frenchman; to shine in such society, is the
+main object of his ambition; his whole life is regulated so as to
+gratify this desire. He is indifferent about comforts at home--he
+dislikes domestic society--he hates the retirement of the country; but
+he loves, and is taught to love, to figure in a large circle of
+acquaintance, for whom he has not the least heartfelt friendship, with
+whom he is on no more intimate terms than with perfect strangers, after
+the first half hour. If he has acquired a reputation in science, arts,
+or arms, so much the better; his _glory_ will be of much service to him;
+if not, he must make it up by his conversation.
+
+In consequence of the predilection of the French for social intercourse
+of this kind, it is, that knowledge of such kinds, and to such an
+extent, as can be easily introduced into conversation, is very general;
+that the opportunities of such intercourse are carefully multiplied;
+that all arts which can add to the attractions of such scenes are
+assiduously improved; that liveliness of disposition is prized beyond
+all other qualities, while those eccentricities of manner, which seem to
+form a component part of what we call humorous characters, are excluded;
+that even childish amusements are preferred to solitary occupations;
+that taste is cultivated more than morality, wit esteemed more than
+wisdom, and vanity encouraged more than merit.
+
+It is easy to trace the pernicious effects of a taste for society of
+this kind, on individual character, when it is encouraged to such a
+degree as to become a serious occupation, instead of a relaxation to the
+mind. When the main object of a man's life is distinction among his
+acquaintances, from his wit--his liveliness--his elegance of taste--his
+powers of conversation--or even from the fame he may have earned by his
+talents; he becomes careless about the love of those with whom he is on
+more intimate terms, and who do not value him exclusively, or even
+chiefly, for such qualities. His domestic affections are weakened; he
+lives for himself and enjoys the present moment without either
+reflection or foresight; with the outward appearance of an open friendly
+disposition, he becomes, in reality, selfish and interested; that he may
+secure general sympathy from indifferent spectators, he is under the
+necessity of repressing all strong emotions, and expressions of ardent
+feeling, and of confining himself to a worldly and common-place
+morality; he learns to value his moral feelings, as well as his
+intellectual powers, chiefly for the sake of the display which he can
+make of them in society; and to reprobate vice, rather on account of its
+outward deformity, than of its intrinsic guilt; gradually he becomes
+impatient of restraints on the pleasure which he derives from social
+intercourse; and the religious and moral principles of his nature are
+sacrificed to the visionary idol to which his love of pleasure and his
+love of _glory_ have devoted him.
+
+Such appears to be the state of the minds of most Parisians. They have
+been so much accustomed to pride themselves on the outward appearance of
+their actions, that they have become regardless of their intrinsic
+merits; they have lived so long for _effect_, that they have forgotten
+that there is any other principle by which their lives can be regulated.
+
+Of the devotion of the French to the sort of life to which we refer, the
+best possible proof is, their fondness for a town life; the small number
+of chateaux in the country that are inhabited--and the still more
+remarkable scarcity of villas in the neighbourhood of Paris, to which
+men of business may retire. There are a few houses of this description
+about Belleville and near Malmaison; but in general, you pass from the
+noisy and dirty Fauxbourgs at once into the solitude of the country; and
+it is quite obvious, that you have left behind you all the scenes in
+which the Parisians find enjoyment. The contrast in the neighbourhood of
+London, is most striking. It is easy to laugh at the dulness and
+vulgarity of a London citizen, who divides his time between his
+counting-house and his villa, or at the coarseness and rusticity of an
+English country squire; but there is no description of men to whom the
+national character of our country is more deeply indebted.
+
+It seems no difficult matter to ascribe most of the differences which we
+observe between the English and French character to the differences in
+the habits of the people, occasioned by form of government and various
+assignable causes: and the French character, in particular, has very
+much the appearance of being moulded by the artificial form of society
+which prevails among the people. Yet, it is not easy to reconcile such
+explanations with the instances we can often observe, of difference of
+national character manifested under circumstances, or at an age, when
+the causes assigned can hardly have operated. The peculiarities which
+appear to us most artificial in the Parisian character and manners, may
+often be seen in full perfection in very young children. Every little
+French girl, almost from the time when she begins to speak, seems to
+place her chief delight in attracting the regard of the other sex,
+rather than in playing with her female companions. "In England," says
+Chateaubriand, "girls are sent to school in their earliest years: you
+sometimes see groups of these little ones, dressed in white mantles,
+with straw hats tied under the chin with a ribband, and a basket on the
+arm, containing fruit and a book--all with downcast eyes, blushing when
+looked at. When I have seen," he continues, "our French female children,
+dressed in their antiquated fashion, lifting up the trains of their
+gowns, looking at every one they meet with effrontery, singing love-sick
+airs, and taking lessons in declamation; I have thought with regret, of
+the simplicity and modesty of the little English girls."
+
+It is the opinion of some naturalists, that the acquired habits, as well
+as the natural instincts of animals, are transmitted to their progeny;
+and in comparing the causes commonly assigned, and plausibly supported,
+for the peculiarities of national character, with the very early age at
+which these peculiarities shew themselves, one is almost tempted to
+believe, that something of the same kind may take place in the human
+species.
+
+* * *
+
+In what has now been said, no reference has been made to the influence
+of the revolution on the parts of the French character on which we have
+touched. On this point we have of course, the means of judging with
+precision; but most of the peculiarities which appeared to us most
+striking certainly existed before the revolution, and we should be
+disposed to doubt whether the leading features are materially altered.
+The influence of the writings of the French philosophers on the
+religious and moral principles of their countrymen, has certainly been
+very great, and has been probably strengthened, rather than weakened, by
+the events of the last twenty-five years.
+
+The general diffusion of a military spirit; the unprincipled manner in
+which war has been conducted, and the encouragement which has been given
+to martial qualities, to the exclusion of all pacific virtues, have
+promoted the growth of the French military vices, particularly
+selfishness and licentiousness, among all ranks and descriptions of the
+people, and materially injured their general character, even in the
+remotest parts of the country. During the revolution, and under the
+Imperial Government, men have owed their success, in France, almost
+exclusively to the influence of their intellectual abilities, without
+any assistance from their moral character; in consequence, the contempt
+for religion is more generally diffused, and more openly expressed than
+it was; and although loud protestations of inviolable honour are still
+necessary, integrity of conduct is much less respected. The abolition of
+the old, and the formation of a new nobility, composed chiefly of men
+who had risen from inferior military situations, has had a most
+pernicious effect on the general manners of the nation. The chief or
+sole use of a hereditary nobility in a free country, is to keep up a
+standard of dignity and elegance of manner, which serves as a model of
+imitation much more extensively than the middling and lower ranks are
+often willing to allow, and has a more beneficial effect on the national
+character, than it is easy to explain on mere speculative principles.
+But the manners of the new French nobility being the very reverse of
+dignified or elegant, their constitution has hitherto tended only to
+confirm the changes in the general manners of a great proportion of the
+French nation, which the revolutionary ideas had effected. There are
+very few men to be seen now in France, who (making all allowances for
+difference of previous habits) appear to Englishmen to possess either
+the manners or feelings of gentlemen.
+
+The best possible proof that this is not a mere national prejudice, in
+so far as the army is concerned, is, that the French _ladies_ are very
+generally of the same way of thinking. After the English officers left
+Toulouse in the summer of 1814, the ladies of that town found the
+manners of the French officers who succeeded them so much less
+agreeable, that they could not be prevailed on, for a long time, to
+admit them into their society. This is a triumph over the arms of
+France, which we apprehend our countrymen would have found it much more
+difficult to achieve in the days of the ancient monarchy.
+
+On the other hand, it must be admitted, that the revolution, has had the
+effect of completely removing from the French character that silly
+veneration for high rank, unaccompanied by any commanding qualities of
+mind, which used to form a predominant feature in it. Yet it seems
+doubtful whether the equivalent they have obtained is more likely to
+promote their happiness. They have now an equally infatuated admiration
+for ability and success, without integrity or virtue. Their minds have
+been delivered from the dominion of rank without talents, and have
+fallen under that of talents without principle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+PARIS--THE THEATRES.
+
+
+It is difficult for any person who has never quitted England to enter
+into the feelings which every one must experience when he first finds it
+in his power to examine those peculiarities of national manners, or
+national taste, in the people of other states, which have long been the
+subject of speculation in his own country, and on his imperfect
+knowledge of which, much perhaps of the estimate he has formed of the
+character of those nations may depend. The circumstance which perhaps,
+of all others connected with the people of France, is most likely to
+create this feeling of curiosity and interest, is the opportunity of
+attending the French theatres. In most countries, and even in some
+where dramatic representations possess much greater power over the minds
+of the audience, the theatre is comparatively of much less importance to
+a stranger in assisting him to judge of the character of the people; the
+observations which he may collect can seldom be of any great use in
+affording him means of understanding their manners and public character,
+and at the most, cannot inform him of those circumstances in the
+character of the people with which their happiness and prosperity are
+connected;--but the theatre at Paris is an object of the greatest
+interest to a stranger; every one knows how strikingly the character and
+dispositions of the French people are displayed at their theatres; and
+at the period when we were there, as every speech almost contained
+something which was eagerly turned into an allusion to the circumstances
+of their situation, and to the events which had so lately taken place,
+the interest which the theatres must at any time have excited, was
+greatly increased.
+
+There was another object also, less temporary in its nature, which
+rendered frequent attendance at the theatre, one of the most useful and
+instructive occupations of our time. The construction and character of
+the French tragedies have been as generally questioned in other
+countries, as they are universally and enthusiastically admired in
+France; and with whatever feelings, whether of pleasure or fatigue, we
+might have read these celebrated compositions, we were all naturally
+most anxious to ascertain how far they were calculated for actual
+representation, and what effect these plays, which possess such
+influence over the French people, might produce on those who had been
+accustomed to dramatic writings of so very different a description.
+
+The theatres present, at first view, a very favourable aspect of French
+character. The audience uniformly conduct themselves with propriety and
+decorum; they are always attentive to the piece represented, and shew
+themselves, in general very good judges of theatrical merit; and the
+entertainments which please their taste are certainly of a superior
+order to a great part of those which are popular in England. A great
+number of the performances which are loudly applauded by the pit and
+boxes of the London theatres, would be esteemed low and vulgar, even by
+the galleries at the Theatre Francais. It must be added, likewise, that
+the morality of the plays which are in request, is very generally more
+strict than of favourite English plays; and often of a refined and
+sentimental turn, which would be little relished in England. The
+tragedies acted at the Theatre Francais are generally modelled on the
+Greek; those of Racine and Voltaire are common. The comedies have seldom
+any low life or buffoonery, or vulgar ribaldry in them; The after
+pieces, and the ballets at the Academie de Musique, and at the Opera
+Comique, are often beautiful representations of rural innocence and
+enjoyments.
+
+It appears at first difficult to reconcile this taste in theatrical
+entertainments with the well-known immorality of the Parisians; but the
+fact is, that as they are in the daily habit of speaking of virtues
+which they do not practise, so it never appears to enter their heads;
+that the sentiments which they delight in hearing at the theatres ought
+to regulate their conduct to one another. They applaud them only for
+their adaptation to the situation of the fictitious personages; whereas
+in England they are applauded, for speaking home to the business and
+bosoms of the audience.
+
+The conduct and style of the French tragedies, in particular, appear to
+be very characteristic of a nation among whom noble and virtuous
+feelings are no sooner experienced than they are proclaimed to the
+world; and are there valued, rather for the selfish pleasure they
+produce, in the mind, than for their influence on conduct. The French
+will not admit, in their tragedies, the representation of all the
+variety of character and situation that can throw an air of truth and
+reality over dramatic fiction; they can admire such incidents and
+characters only, as accord with the sentiments and emotions which it is
+the peculiar province of tragedy to excite. They are not satisfied with
+the indication, in a few energetic words,--valuable only as an index to
+the state of the mind, and an earnest of the actions of the speaker,--of
+feelings too strong to find vent at the moment, in words capable of
+fully expressing them; they must have the full developement, the long
+detailed exposition of all the thoughts which crowd into the mind of the
+actor or sufferer, expanded, as it were, to prolong the enjoyment of
+those who are to sympathise with them, and expressed in select and
+appropriate terms, with the pomp and stateliness of heroic verse. An
+English tragedy is valued as a representation of life and character; a
+French tragedy as a display of eloquence and feeling: and the reason is,
+that in France eloquence and feeling are valued for their own sake, and
+in England they are valued for the sake of the corresponding character
+and conduct.
+
+It is perhaps one of the strongest arguments in favour of the general
+plan of the English drama, and one of the best proofs that dramatic
+poetry ought to be judged by very different principles from those by
+which other kinds of poetry are criticised, that one of the principal
+merits of the French actors consists in hiding the chief peculiarities
+of their own dramatic school. The personages in a French tragedy are
+represented by the authors as it were a degree above human nature; but
+the actors study to present themselves before the audience as simple men
+and women: the speeches are generally such as appear to be delivered by
+persons who are superior to the overwhelming influence of strong
+passions, and who can calmly enter into an analysis of their own
+feelings; but the actors labour to give you the impression, that they
+are agitated by present, violent, and sudden emotions; the tragedies are
+composed with as much regularity as epic poems in heroic verse, but the
+best actors do all in their power, by varied intonation, by irregular
+pauses, and frequent bursts of passion, to conceal the rhymes, and break
+the uniformity of the measure.
+
+The effect of the rhymes and regular versification, in the mouths of the
+inferior actors, who have not the art to conceal them, is, to an English
+ear at least, very unpleasing, and indeed almost destructive of
+theatrical illusion; and as a number of such actors must necessarily
+appear in every tragedy, it may be doubted whether a tragedy is ever
+acted throughout on the French stage in so pleasing a manner, at least
+to an English taste, as some of our English tragedies are at present in
+the London theatres--as Venice preserved, for example, is now acted at
+Covent Garden. If such be our superiority, however, it must be ascribed,
+not to the tragic genius of the people being greater, but to there being
+fewer difficulties to be overcome on the English stage than on the
+French.
+
+We think it is pretty clear, likewise, that the style of the best
+English tragedies affords a better field for the display of genius in
+the actors, than that of the French. Where the sentiments of the
+characters introduced are fully expressed in their words--where their
+whole thoughts are detailed for the edification of the audience, however
+grand or touching these may be, it is obvious, that the actor who is to
+represent them is in trammels; the poet has done so much, that little
+remains for him; his art is confined to the display of emotions or
+passions, all the variations of which are set down for him, and which he
+is not permitted to alter. But when the expression of intense feeling is
+confined to few words, to broken sentences, and sudden transitions of
+thought, which let you, indeed, into the inmost recesses of the soul of
+the sufferer, but do not lay it open before you, it is permitted for the
+genius of the actor to co-operate with that of the poet in producing an
+effect, for which neither was singly competent. Those who have witnessed
+the representation of the heart-rendings of jealousy in Kean's Othello,
+or of the agonies of "love and sorrow joined" in Miss O'Neil's
+Belvidera, will, we are persuaded, acknowledge the truth of this
+observation.
+
+The ideas which we had formed of the French stage, from reading their
+tragedies, had prepared us to expect, in their principal actor, a
+figure, countenance, and manner, resembling those of Kemble, fitted to
+give full effect to the declamations in which they abound, and to the
+representation of characters of heroic virtue, elevated above the
+influence of earthly passions. The appearance of Talma is very different
+from this, and certainly has by no means the uniform dignity and
+majestic elevation of Kemble.
+
+Difficult as it must always be to convey, by any general description, a
+distinct or adequate notion of the excellence of any actor, there are
+some circumstances which it is common to mention, and some expressions
+which must be understood wherever the theatre is an object of interest,
+and the power of acting appreciated. Talma appears to us to unite more
+of the advantages of figure, and countenance, and voice, than any actor
+that we have ever seen: it is not that his person is large and graceful,
+or even well proportioned; on the contrary, he is rather a short man,
+and is certainly not without defects in the shape of his limbs. But
+these disadvantages are wholly overlooked in admiration of his dignified
+and imposing carriage--of his majestic head--and of his full and
+finely-proportioned chest, which expresses so nobly the resolution, and
+manliness, and independence of the human character.
+
+There is one circumstance in which Talma has every perfection which it
+is possible to conceive--in the power, and richness, and beauty of his
+_voice_. It is one of those commanding and pathetic voices which can
+never, at any distance of time, be forgotten by any one who has once
+heard it: every variety of tone and expression of which the human voice
+is capable, is perfectly at his command, and succeed each other with a
+rapidity and power which it is not possible to conceive. It makes its
+way to the heart the instant it is heard, and at the moment he begins to
+speak, you feel not only your attention fixed, and your admiration
+excited, but the mind wholly subdued by its resistless influence, and
+disposed to enter at once into every emotion which he may wish to
+produce. The beauty and feeling of his under tones, the affection,
+tenderness, and pity which they so exquisitely express, are so perfect,
+that no one could foresee in such perfections, the fierce, hurried, and
+overhearing tones of Nero--the voice of deep and exhausting suffering,
+which in Hamlet shews so profound an impression of the misery he had
+undergone, and of the hopelessness of the situation in which he is
+placed,--or still more the shriek of agony in Orestes, when he finds the
+horrors of madness again assailing him, and when, in that utter
+prostration of soul which the belief of inevitable and merciless destiny
+alone could produce in his mind, he abandons himself in dark despair to
+the misery which seems to close around him for ever.
+
+We have heard several English people describe Talma's countenance, as by
+no means powerful enough for a great actor; it appeared to us, that in
+no one respect was he so decidedly superior to any _actor_ on the
+English stage, as in the truth and variety of expression which it
+displays. There is one observation indeed regarding the acting of Talma,
+which often suggested itself, and which may, in some degree, prepare us
+to expect, that English people in general could not be much struck with
+the expression of his countenance. On the English stage, it appears
+commonly to be the object of the actors, to give to every sentiment the
+whole effect of which the words of the part will admit, as fully as if
+that sentiment were the only one which could occupy the mind of the
+character at the time; and any person who will attend to the manner in
+which Macbeth and Hamlet are performed, even by that great actor whose
+genius has secured at once the pre-eminence which the reputation of
+Garrick had left so long uncontested, may observe, that many of the
+parts, which are applauded as the strongest proofs of the abilities of
+the actor, consist in the expression given to sentiments, undoubtedly of
+subordinate importance in the situation of these characters, and which
+probably could never occupy so exclusively the mind of any one really
+placed in the circumstances represented in the play, and under the
+influence of the feelings which such circumstances are calculated to
+produce. In the character of Hamlet, in particular, there are several
+passages, in which it is the custom to express minor and passing
+sentiments with a keenness little suitable to the profound grief in
+which Hamlet ought to be absorbed at the commencement of the play, and
+which can be natural only when the mind is free from other more powerful
+emotions. It appears to us, that the consistency of character is much
+more judiciously and naturally preserved in the acting of Talma; that he
+is more careful to maintain invariably that unity of expression which
+ought to be given to the character, and is more uniformly under the
+influence of those predominating feelings, which the circumstances of
+the situation in which the part has placed him seem fitted to excite.
+Under this impression apparently of the object which an actor ought to
+keep in view, Talma omits many opportunities, which would be eagerly
+employed on the English stage, to display the power of the actor, though
+the natural consistency of character might be violated; and never seems
+to think it proper to express, on all occasions, every sentiment with
+that effect which should be given to it, only when it becomes the
+predominant feeling of the moment. Much, no doubt, is lost for stage
+effect by this notion of acting. Many opportunities are passed over,
+which might have been employed to shew the manner in which the actor can
+represent a variety of feelings, which the language of the play may seem
+to admit; and we lose much of the art and skill of acting, when the
+talents of the actor are limited to the display of such sentiments only
+as accord with the simple and decided expression of character which he
+is anxious to maintain.
+
+But on the other hand, the impression which this representation of
+character makes upon the mind, is on the whole much more profound, and
+the interest which the spectator takes in the circumstances in which the
+character is placed, is much greater when the actor is so wholly under
+the influence of the feelings which the situation of the part ought to
+excite, as never to betray any emotion which can weaken that general
+effect which this situation would naturally produce. To those,
+therefore, accustomed to the greater variety of expression which the
+practice of the English stage renders necessary in the countenance of
+every actor, and to the strong and often exaggerated manner in which
+common sentiments and ordinary feelings are represented, there may
+perhaps appear some want of expression in Talma's countenance; but no
+one can attend fully to any of the more interesting characters which he
+performs, without feeling an impression produced by the power and
+intelligence of his countenance, which no length of time will ever
+wholly efface. It is not the expression of his countenance at any
+particular moment which fixes itself on the mind, or the force with
+which accidental feelings are represented; but that permanent and
+powerful expression which suits the character he has to sustain, and
+never for an instant permits you to forget the circumstances, of
+whatever kind, in which he is placed; and those who have seen him in any
+of the greater parts on the French stage, can never forget that
+unrivalled power of expressing deep grief, of which nothing in any
+English actor at present on the stage can afford any idea.
+
+At the same time it must be admitted, that Talma has arrived at that
+time of life, when the hand of age has impaired, in some degree, the
+vigour and expression of the human frame, and when his countenance has
+lost much of that variety and play of expression which belongs to the
+period of youth alone; it has lost much of the warmth and keenness of
+youthful feeling, and probably might fail in expressing that openness,
+and gaiety, and enthusiasm, which time has so great a tendency to
+diminish. But these qualities are not often required in the parts which
+Talma has to perform in the French plays; and if his countenance has
+lost some of the perfections of earlier years, it has, on the other
+hand, gained much from the seriousness and dignity of age. If, for
+instance, he does not express so well the ardour--the hope--the triumph
+of youthful love, there is yet something irresistibly affecting in the
+earnestness with which he expresses that passion; something which adds
+most deeply to the interest which its expression is calculated to
+excite, by reminding one of the instability of human enjoyment, and of
+the many misfortunes which the course of life may bring with it to
+destroy the visions of inexperienced affection. We have already
+mentioned, that in the expression of profound emotion and deep
+suffering, the countenance of Talma is altogether admirable; and we
+doubt whether there is any thing is this respect more true and perfect,
+even in the performance of that great actress who has, in the present
+day, united every perfection of grace, and beauty, and genuine feeling
+which the stage has ever exhibited. But the countenance of Talma, in
+scenes of distress, expresses not merely suffering, but if possible,
+something more, which we have never seen in any other actor. He alone
+possesses the power of expressing that impatience under suffering--that
+restless, constant wish for relief, which produces so strong an
+impression of the truth and reality of the affliction with which you are
+called upon to sympathise.
+
+His attitudes and action are uncommonly striking, seldom in the
+exaggeration of the French stage, and never running into that immoderate
+expression of passion in which dignity of character is necessarily
+sacrificed. Talma appears to understand the use and management of action
+better than any actor on the French stage; and though at times some
+prominent faults, inseparable, perhaps, from the character of the plays
+in which he is compelled to perform, may be observable; yet, in general,
+his action appears to possess a power and expression beyond what is
+attempted by any actor on the English stage.
+
+Nothing can be conceived apparently so inconsistent with the character
+of the French plays, as the manner in which they are delivered. The
+harangues, which are tedious to many when read, might probably be very
+uninteresting to all when performed, if delivered with that unbending
+and unimpassioned declamation, which seems to suit "their stately march
+and long resounding lines:" to a French audience, in particular, such
+representations would be intolerable, and the actors, accordingly, have
+been led to perform them with a degree of energy and passion which they
+do not appear intended to admit, but which was necessary, perhaps, to
+awaken those emotions which it must be more or less the object of
+theatrical representations to excite, wherever they are to be performed
+to all classes of mankind. As might have been foreseen, the French
+actors, compelled to counterfeit a degree of warmth and feeling which
+was not suggested by the sentiments they utter, or the language they
+employ, have fallen very naturally into the error of making the
+expression of passion immoderately vehement; and thus, when not guided
+by the language they are to use, have become not only indiscriminate in
+the introduction of violent emotion, but often run into a degree of
+warmth, totally destructive of every feeling of propriety and dignity.
+
+The striking circumstance in Talma's acting is, that he alone seems to
+know how to act the French plays with all the feeling and interest which
+can be necessary to produce effect; and at the same time, to avoid that
+exaggerated representation of passion which represses the very emotions
+it is intended to excite. The means by which the genius of this great
+actor has accomplished so important an effect, and overcome the
+difficulties which seem insuperable to the rest of his countrymen,
+afford the best illustration that can be given of the talents and
+imagination he displays. Talma appears to have thought, and most justly,
+that the only manner in which the French tragedies can approach and
+interest the heart, is by the impression which the character and the
+moral tendency of the play may, upon the whole, be able to produce, not
+by the force or pathos which can be thrown into any detached speeches,
+or by the effect with which individual parts of the tragedy may be
+given. The impression which might be created by the delivery of any
+particular passage, or by the expression of any occasional sentiment, he
+seems at all times to consider as of subordinate importance to the
+preservation of that permanent character, whether of intense and
+overpowering suffering, or wild desperation, by which he thinks the
+feelings of the spectators may be most deeply and heartily interested.
+Much as we admire the excellencies of the English stage, and none we are
+persuaded can have an opportunity of comparing it with the acting of the
+French theatre, without being more sensible of its perfections, we
+think it may yet be observed, that many important objects are sacrificed
+to the desire of producing _continual_ emotion,--to the practice of
+making every sentiment and every word tell upon the audience, with an
+effect which could not be greater, if that sentiment were the whole
+object of the tragedy. We admit, most willingly, the talent and feeling
+which are often so beautifully displayed in the course of the inferior
+scenes; and the impression, which is so frequently produced over the
+"whole assembled multitude," by the delivery of a single passage, of no
+importance in itself, attests sufficiently the merits of the actors who
+can thus wield at will the passions of the spectators. What we are
+anxious to observe is, that the _general impression_, from the play must
+be less profound, when the mind is thus distracted by a variety of
+powerful feelings succeeding each other so rapidly, and when the
+interest, which would naturally increase of itself as the performance
+proceeds, in the history and moral tendency of the tragedy, is thus
+broken, as it were, by the influence of so many transient passions. It
+is very singular to observe the difference, in this respect, between the
+character of an English and a Parisian audience: To the former, every
+thing, as it passes, must be given with the greatest effect; no
+opportunity can safely be omitted, by any one attentive to the public
+opinion, of displaying the power with which each sentiment may be
+expressed; and there is no common feeling among the spectators, of the
+subserviency of all the different parts of the tragedy to one great
+import, or that it is only in the more important scenes, where the
+events of the story are coming to a close, that great talent is to be
+exerted, or profound emotion excited. The feelings of a French audience,
+as might be expected, are such as better suit the character of the plays
+which have been so long addressed to them; they like to have their
+interest awakened, and their feelings excited, only as the story
+proceeds, and the deeper scenes of the tragedy begin to open upon them;
+and it is to the general impression which the progress and close of the
+play leave upon the mind, that they look, as to the criterion of the
+excellence of the manner, in which that play has been performed.
+Nothing, therefore, can be apparently quieter than the commencement of a
+French tragedy; and a person unacquainted with the language, would be
+disposed to conclude what was passing before him as uninteresting in the
+highest degree, if he did not observe the most profound and eager
+attention to prevail in those to whom it is addressed. It would be a
+subject of very curious and instructive speculation, to examine the
+circumstances, in the situation and intelligence of the people in both
+countries, which have occasioned this remarkable difference in their
+feelings, in moments when the influence of prejudice, or the effect of
+peculiar character, generally gives way, and when the genuine sentiments
+of mankind, as invariably happens when the different ranks of men are
+assembled indiscriminately together, assume their natural empire over
+the human heart. It might unfold some interesting conclusions both as to
+the great object of the drama, and the genuine style of dramatic
+representation; and might place, in a more important point of view than
+is within the consideration, perhaps, of many who so hastily decide on
+the superiority of the English stage, the excellence they admire.
+
+Much as the French tragedies are despised in this country, and sensible
+as we are of many essential defects which belong to them, when
+considered as the means of exciting popular feeling, or of applying to
+the duties of common life, we must yet state the very great and lasting
+impression which many of them left on our minds, and which, we can truly
+say, was never equalled by any effect produced by the most successful
+efforts of the English stage. At our own theatres, we have been often
+more deeply affected during the performance of the play,--we have often
+admired, much more, the grace, or feeling, or grandeur of the acting we
+witnessed, and been more highly delighted with the _species_ of talent
+which was displayed; but yet, we must acknowledge, that the impression
+that all this _left upon the mind_, was not such as has been produced by
+the powers of Talma in the French tragedies. We had many occasions,
+however, to see that this effect was to be attributed chiefly to the
+genius of this great actor, and that it was only when entrusted to him,
+that the influence of these plays was so deeply felt.
+
+The great difference, then, between the acting of Talma, and of the
+other actors on the French stage, is his constant attention to the means
+by which the impression, which the general tendency of the play will
+produce, may be increased. Whatever may be the character which the
+nature of the tragedy seems to require, his whole powers are employed to
+pursue that character inviolably during the progress of the play, and to
+add to the effect it is fitted to produce: The character of profound
+grief, for instance, is so completely sustained, that the very act of
+speaking seems an exertion too great for a mind which suffering has
+nearly exhausted, and where, in consequence, the pomp and energy of
+declamation, and many of the most natural aids by which passion is wont
+to express itself, are all disregarded in the intensity of mental agony.
+It is not uncommon, accordingly, to see Talma perform parts of a tragedy
+in a manner which might seem tame and unmeaning to one who had not been
+present at the preceding parts, but which is most interesting to those
+who have seen the character which he adopts from the first, and feel the
+propriety and effect of the manner in which that character is sustained.
+Some of the most striking effects we have ever seen produced in any
+acting, are in those scenes, in many plays in which he performs, in
+which, from his powerful and affecting personation of character, his
+exhausted mind seems unable to enter into any events which are not
+either to relieve his sufferings, or terminate an existence which
+appears beset with such hopeless misery. Other actors may have succeeded
+in expressing as strongly the influence of present suffering, or the
+despair of intense grief. It is Talma alone who knows how to express,
+what is so much more grand, the effects of long suffering; to remind you
+of the misery he has endured by the spectacle of an exhausted frame and
+broken spirit; and by exhibiting the overwhelming consequence of those
+sufferings which the poet has not dared to describe, nor the actor
+ventured to represent to interest the mind far more profoundly than any
+representation of present passion could possibly effect. The influence
+of the exertions of other actors is limited to the effects of the
+emotions they represent, and of the suffering they exhibit: the genius
+of Talma has imitated the efforts of ancient Greece in her matchless
+sculpture, and, in every situation which put it within his power,
+chosen, as the proper field for the display of the actor's powers, not
+the mere representation of excess in suffering, but that moment of
+greater interest, when the struggle of nature is past, and the mind has
+sunk under the pressure of affliction, which no fortitude could sustain,
+and which no ray of hope had cheered.
+
+Every one knows the peculiar manner in which, in general, the verses of
+the French tragedy are repeated, and the delight which the French people
+take in the uniform and balanced modulation of voice with which they are
+accompanied. In an ordinary actor, this peculiar tone is often, to many
+foreigners, extremely fatiguing, but it is defended in France, as
+securing a pleasure in some degree independent of the merits of the
+actor, and defending the audience from the harshness of tone, and
+extravagancies of accent, to which otherwise, in bad actors, they would
+be exposed; and certainly no one can listen, in the National Theatre, to
+the beautiful and splendid declamations of the most celebrated
+compositions in French literature, delivered in the manner which has
+been selected as best adapted to the character of the plays and the
+taste of the people, with any feeling of indifference. In the skilful
+hands of Talma, who preserves the beauty of the poetry nearly unimpaired
+in the very _abandon_ of feeling, the French verse acquires beauties
+which it never before could boast, and loses all that is harsh or
+painful in the uniformity of its structure, or the monotony of
+artificial taste. The description which Le Baron de Grimm has given of
+Le Kain may be well applied to Talma. "Un talent plus precieux sans
+doute et qu'il avait porte au plus haut degre c'etait celui de faire
+sentir tout le charme des beaux vers sans nuire jamais a la verite de
+l'expression. En dechirant le coeur, il enchantait toujours l'oreille, sa
+voix penetrait jusqu'au fond de l'ame, et l'impression qu'elle y
+faisait, semblable a celle du burin, y laissait des traces et longs
+souvenirs."
+
+The tragedy of Hamlet, in which we saw Talma perform for the first time,
+is one which must be interesting to every person who has any
+acquaintance with French literature; and it will not probably be
+considered as any great digression in a description of Talma's
+excellencies as an actor, to add some further remarks concerning that
+celebrated play in which his powers are perhaps most strikingly
+displayed, and which is one of the greatest compositions undoubtedly of
+the French theatre. It can hardly be called a translation, as many
+material alterations were made in the story of the play; and though the
+general purport of the principal speeches has been sometimes preserved,
+the language and sentiments are generally extremely different. The
+character of Shakespeare's Hamlet was wholly unsuited to the taste of a
+French audience. What is the great attraction in that mysterious being
+to the feelings of the English people, the strange, wild, and
+metaphysical ideas which his art or his madness seems to take such
+pleasure in starting, and the uncertainty in which Shakespeare has left
+the reader with regard to Hamlet's real situation, would not perhaps
+have been understood--certainly not admired, by those who were
+accustomed to consider the works of Racine and Voltaire as the models of
+dramatic composition. In the play of Ducis, accordingly, Hamlet thinks,
+talks, and acts pretty much as any other human being would do, who
+should be compelled to speak only in the verse of the French tragedy,
+which necessarily excludes, in a great degree, any great incoherence or
+flightiness of sentiment. In some respects, however, the French Hamlet,
+if a less poetical personage, is nevertheless a more interesting one,
+and better adapted to excite those feelings which are most within the
+command of the actor's genius. M. Ducis has represented him as more
+doubtful of the reality of the vision which haunted him, or at least of
+the authority which had commissioned it for such dreadful
+communications; and this alteration, so important in the hands of Talma,
+was required on account of other changes which had been made in the
+story of the play. The paramour of the Queen is not Hamlet's uncle, nor
+had the Queen either married the murderer, or discovered her criminal
+connexion with him. Hamlet, therefore, has not, in the incestuous
+marriage of his mother, that strong confirmation of the ghost's
+communication, which, in Shakespeare, led him to suspect foul play even
+before he sees his father's spirit. In the French play, therefore,
+Hamlet is placed in one of the most dreadful situations in which the
+genius of poetry can imagine a human being: Haunted by a spirit, which
+assumes such mastery over his mind, that he cannot dispel the fearful
+impression it has made, or disregard the communication it so often
+repeats, while his attachment to his mother, in whom he reveres the
+parent he has lost, makes him question the truth of crimes which are
+thus laid to her charge, and causes him to look upon this terrific
+spectre as the punishment of unknown crime, and the visitation of an
+offended Deity. Ducis has most judiciously and most poetically
+represented Hamlet, in the despair which his sufferings produce, as
+driven to the belief of an over-ruling destiny, disposing of the fate of
+its unhappy victims by the most arbitrary and revolting arrangement, and
+visiting upon some, with vindictive fury, the whole crimes of the age in
+which they live. There is in this introduction of ancient superstition,
+something which throws a mysterious veil round the destiny of Hamlet,
+that irresistibly engrosses the imagination, and which must be doubly
+interesting in that country where the horrors of the revolution have
+ended in producing a very prevalent, though vague belief, in the
+influence of fatality upon human character and human actions, among
+those who pretend to ridicule, as unmanly prejudice and childish
+delusion, the religion of modern Europe.
+
+The struggle, accordingly, that appears to take place in Hamlet's mind
+is most striking; and when at last he yields to the authority and the
+commands of the spirit, which exercises such tyranny over his mind, it
+does not seem the result of any farther evidence of the guilt which he
+is enjoined to revenge, but as the triumph of superstition over the
+strength of his reason. He had long resisted the influence of that
+visionary being, which announced itself as his father's injured spirit,
+and in assuming that sacred form, had urged him to destroy the only
+parent whom fate had left; but the struggle had brought him to the brink
+of the grave, and shaken the empire of reason; and when at last he
+abandons himself to the guidance of a power which his firmer nature had
+long resisted, the impression of the spectator is, that his mind has
+yielded in the struggle, and that, in the desperate hope of obtaining
+relief from present wretchedness, he is about to commit the most
+horrible crimes, by obeying the suggestions of a spirit, which he more
+than suspects to be employed only to tempt him on to perdition. No
+description can possibly do justice to the manner in which this
+situation of Hamlet is represented by Talma; indeed, on reading over the
+play some time afterwards, it was very evident that the powers of the
+actor had invested the character with much of the grandeur and terror
+which seemed to belong to it, and that the imagination of the French
+poet, which rises into excellence, even when compared with the
+productions of that great master of the passions whom he has not
+submitted to copy, has been surpassed by the fancy of the actor for whom
+he wrote. The Hamlet of Talma is probably productive of more profound
+emotion, than any representation of character on any stage ever excited.
+
+One other alteration ought to be mentioned, as it renders the
+circumstances of Hamlet's situation still more distressing, and affords
+Talma an opportunity of displaying the effects of one of the gentler
+passions of human nature, when its influence seemed irreconcileable with
+the stern and fearful duties which fate had assigned to him. The Ophelia
+of the French play, so unlike that beautiful and innocent being who
+alone seems to connect the Hamlet of Shakespeare with the feelings and
+nature of ordinary men, has been made the daughter of the man for whose
+sake the king has been poisoned, and was engaged to marry Hamlet at that
+happier period when he was the ornament of his father's court, and the
+hope of his father's subjects. In the first part of the play, though no
+hint of the terrible revenge which he was to execute on her father has
+escaped, the looks and anxiety of Talma discover to her that her fate is
+in some degree connected with the emotions which so visibly oppress him,
+and she makes him at last confess the insurmountable barrier which
+separates them for ever. Nothing can be greater than the acting of Talma
+during this difficult scene, in which he has to resist the entreaties of
+the woman whom he loves, when imploring for the life of her father, and
+yet so overcome with his affection, as hardly to have strength left to
+adhere to his dreadful purpose.
+
+The feelings of a French audience do not permit the spirit of Hamlet's
+father to appear on the stage: "L'apparition se passe, (says Madame de
+Stael)[3], en entier dans la physionomie de Talma, et certes elle n'en
+est pas ainsi moins effrayante. Quand, au milieu d'un entretien calme et
+melancolique, tout a coup il apercoit le spectre, on suit tout; ses
+mouvemens dans les yeux qui le contemplent, et l'on ne peut douter de la
+presence du fantome quand un tel regard l'atteste." The remark is
+perfectly just, nothing can be imagined more calculated to dispel at
+once the effect which the countenance of a great actor, in such
+circumstances, would naturally produce, than bringing any one on the
+stage to personate the ghost; and whoever has seen Talma in this part,
+will acknowledge that the mind is not disposed to doubt, for an instant,
+the existence of that form which no eye but his has seen, and of that
+voice which no ear but his has heard. We regretted much, while
+witnessing the astonishing powers which Talma displayed in this very
+difficult part of the play, that it was impossible to see his genius
+employed in giving effect to the character of Aristodemo, (in the
+Italian tragedy of that name by Monti), to which his talents alone could
+do justice, and which, perhaps, affords more room for the display of the
+actor's powers, than any other play with which we are acquainted.
+
+But the soliloquy on death is the part in which the astonishing
+excellence and genius of Talma are most strikingly displayed. Whatever
+difficulty there may often be to determine the particular manner in
+which scenes, with other characters, ought to be performed, there is no
+difference of opinion as to the manner in which soliloquies ought in
+general to be delivered. How comes it, then, that these are the very
+parts in which all feel that the powers of the actors are so much tried,
+and in which, for the most part, they principally fail? No one can have
+paid any attention to the English stage, without being struck with the
+circumstance, that while there may be much to praise in the performance
+of the other parts, many of the best actors uniformly fail in
+soliloquies; and that it is only of late, since the reputation of the
+English stage, has been so splendidly revived, that we have seen these
+difficult and interesting parts properly performed. It is in this
+circumstance, more than any other, in which the talents of Talma are
+most remarkably displayed, because he is peculiarly fitted, by his
+complete personation of character, and the deep interest which he seems
+himself to take in the part he is sustaining, to excel in performing
+what chiefly requires such interest. He is, at all times, so fully
+impressed with the feelings, which, under such circumstances, must have
+been really felt, that one is uniformly struck with the truth and
+propriety of every thing he does; and of course, in soliloquies, which
+must be perfect, when the actor appears to be seriously and deeply
+interested in the subjects on which he is meditating, Talma invariably
+succeeds. In this soliloquy in Hamlet, he is completely absorbed in the
+awful importance of the great question which occupies his attention, and
+nothing indicates the least consciousness of the multitude which
+surrounds him, or even that he is giving utterance to the mighty
+thoughts which crowd upon his mind. "Talma ne faisoit pas un geste,
+quelquefois seulement il remuoit la tete pour questioner la terre et le
+ciel sur ce que c'est que la mort! Immobile, la dignite de la meditation
+absorboit tout son etre."--De l'Allemagne, 1. c. We could wish to avoid
+any attempt to describe the acting of Talma in those passages which the
+eloquence of M. de Stael has rendered familiar throughout Europe; yet we
+feel that this account of the tragedy of Hamlet would be imperfect, if
+we did not allude to that very interesting scene, which corresponds, in
+the history of the play, to the closet scene in Shakespeare. Talma
+appears with the urn which contains the ashes of his father, and whose
+injured spirit he seems to consult, to obtain more proof of the guilt
+which he is to revenge, or in the hope that the affections of human
+nature may yet survive the horrors of the tomb, and that the duty of
+the son will not be tried in the blood of the parent who gave him birth.
+But no voice is heard to alter the sentence which he is doomed to
+execute; and he is still compelled to prepare himself to meet with
+sternness his guilty mother. After charging her, with the utmost
+tenderness and solemnity, with the knowledge of her husband's murder, he
+places the urn in her hands, and requires her to swear her innocence
+over the sacred ashes which it contains. At first, the consciousness
+that Hamlet could only _suspect_ her crime, gives her resolution to
+commence the oath with firmness; and Talma, with an expression of
+countenance which cannot be described, awaits, in triumph and joy, the
+confirmation of her innocence,--and seems to call upon the spirit which
+had haunted him, to behold the solemn scene which proves the falsehood
+of its mission. But the very tenderness which he shews destroys the
+resolution of his mother, and she hesitates in the oath she had begun to
+pronounce. His feelings are at once changed,--the paleness of horror,
+and fury of revenge, are marked in his countenance, and his hands grasp
+the steel which is to punish her guilt: But the agony of his mother
+again overpowers him, at the moment he is about to strike; he appeals
+for mercy to the shade of his father, in a voice, in which, as M. de
+Stael has truly said, all the feelings of human nature seem at once to
+burst from his heart, and, in an attitude humbled by the view of his
+mother's guilt and wretchedness, he awaits the confession she seems
+ready to make: and when she sinks, overcome by the remorse and agony
+which she feels, he remembers only that she is his mother; the affection
+which had been long repressed again returns, and he throws himself on
+his knees, to assure her of the mercy of Heaven. We do not wish to be
+thought so presumptuous as to compare the talents of the French author
+with the genius of Shakespeare, but we must be allowed to say, that we
+think this scene better managed for dramatic effect: and certainly no
+part of Hamlet, on the English stage, ever produced the same impression,
+or affected us so deeply. We are well aware, however, how very different
+the scene would have appeared in the hands of any other actors than
+Talma and Madle Duchesnois, and that a very great part of the merit
+which the play seemed to possess, might be more justly attributed to the
+talents which they displayed. At the conclusion of this great tragedy,
+which has become so popular in France, and in which the genius of Talma
+is so powerfully exhibited, the applause was universal; and after some
+little time, to our surprise, instead of diminishing, became much
+louder; and presently a cry of Talma burst out from the whole house. In
+a few minutes the curtain drew up, and discovered Talma waiting to
+receive the applause with which they honoured him, and to express his
+sense of the distinction paid to him.
+
+The part of Orestes in Andromaque, is another character in which the
+acting of Talma is seen to much advantage: and to a foreigner, it is
+peculiarly interesting, as it displays, more than any other almost, that
+uncommon power of recitation which distinguishes his acting from the
+tame and monotonous declamation of the ordinary actors; and which gives
+to the splendid language, and elevated sentiments of the French
+tragedies, an effect which cannot easily be understood by any one who
+has never seen them well performed. The part is one which is remarkably
+popular at present in Paris, as there is something in the history of
+that fabulous being, who has been represented as the victim of a
+capricious and arbitrary Providence, and exposed during his whole life
+to the most unmerited and horrible torments, which seems greatly to
+interest the French people; and Talma has thus been led to bestow upon
+the character a degree of reflection and preparation, which the parts
+in a French tragedy do not in general require. There is a passage which
+occurs in the first scene, which exhibits very strikingly the judgment
+and genuine feeling which uniformly marks his acting. After mentioning
+what had happened to him after his disappointment, with regard to
+Hermione, and his separation from Pylades, he says, that he had hastened
+to the great assembly of the Greeks, which the common interest of Greece
+had called together, in the hope, that the ardour, the activity, and the
+love of glory which had distinguished the period of youth, might revive
+with the animating scene which was again presented to his mind.
+
+    "En ce calme trompeur J'arrivai dans la Grece
+    Et Je trouvois d'abord ces princes rassembles,
+    Qu'un peril assez grand sembloit avoir troubles.
+    J'y courus. Je pensai que la guerre et la gloire
+    De soins plus importants remplissoit ma memoire
+    Que mes sens reprenant leur premiere vigueur
+    L'amour acheveroit de sortir de mon coeur.
+    Mais admire avec mois le sort, dont la pursuite
+    Me fait courir alors au piege que j'evite."
+
+There is a similar passage in Othello, in which, when the passion of
+jealousy had seized upon his mind, the Moor laments the degradation to
+which he had fallen, when all the objects of his former ambition ceased
+to interest his imagination, or animate his exertions. In enumerating
+the occupations which formed the pomp and glorious circumstance of war,
+but for which the misery of his situation had completely unmanned him,
+the actors who have attempted this character, fire with the description
+of the arms which he now abandons, and of the scenes in which his renown
+had been acquired. In this analogous passage, Talma repeats these scenes
+with much greater propriety and effect. He appeared overwhelmed by a
+deep sense of the degradation to which a foolish and unmanly attachment
+had reduced him; no gesture or tone of voice, expressive of the
+slightest animation, escaped him, when he described the objects of his
+youthful ambition; every thing denoted the shame and regret of a man who
+felt that his glory and his occupation were gone, and who no longer
+dared to look up with pride to the remembrance of those better days,
+when his valour and his resolution were the admiration of Greece.
+
+The scene between Orestes and Hermione on their first meeting, is one in
+which Talma displays very great power: with his heart full of the
+passion from which he had suffered so much, he begins the declaration of
+his constancy in the most ardent and impressive manner, and for a time
+seems to flatter himself, that resentment at the neglect which she had
+met with from Pyrrhus might have awakened some affection for himself in
+the breast of Hermione. At first she is anxious to secure Orestes in
+case that Pyrrhus should ultimately slight her, and is at pains to
+confirm the hope which she perceives that this passion had created: But
+when he urges her to take the opportunity which how offered itself, of
+leaving a court where she appeared to be detained only to witness the
+marriage of her rival, she betrays at once the state of her mind:--
+
+      "Mais, seigneur, cependant s'il epouse Andromaque.
+      _Oreste_. He, madame.
+      _Her_. Songez quelle honte pour nous,
+    Si d'une Phrygienne il devenoit lepoux.
+      _Oreste_. Et vous le haissez!"--&c.
+
+The indignant and bitter irony with which Talma delivers this speech,
+when he finds that resentment at Pyrrhus, and not affection for himself,
+has made her thus anxious to rivet the chains which her former cruelty
+had hardly weakened, is most striking, and he seems at once to regain
+the independence which he had lost.
+
+There is another passage of very peculiar interest, which we hope it
+will not be prolonging these remarks too far to quote, as affording a
+very striking instance of the effect which the powers of Talma are able
+to produce, under almost any circumstances. When Pyrrhus, at one part of
+the play, consents to surrender Astyanax, and by this rupture with
+Andromache, resolves to marry Hermione, Orestes is thrown at once into
+the utmost despair by this sudden change of plans, and by this
+disappointment of his hopes. When he again appears with Pylades, he
+threatens to take the most violent measures, to interrupt this marriage,
+and to carry off Hermione by force from the court where she was
+detained. His friend naturally feels for the wound which his fame must
+suffer from such an outrage, and the dishonour which it would bring upon
+a name rendered sacred throughout Greece, from the unmerited misfortunes
+which he had sustained. "Voila donc le succes qu'aura votre ambassade.
+Oreste ravisseur." But such considerations are of no avail in the
+intemperance of his present feelings; and Orestes, after alluding to the
+injury of a second rejection by Hermione, proceeds to another motive,
+which urged him to any means, however violent to secure his object, and
+which most powerfully interests the imagination. Every one knows the
+supposed history of that mysterious character, whose destiny seemed to
+have placed him at the disposal of some unrelenting enemy of the human
+race, and who had suffered every misfortune which could oppress human
+nature.
+
+    "--Mais, s'il faut ne te rien deguiser
+    Mon innocence enfin commence a me peser,
+    Je ne sais, de tout tems, quelle injuste puissence
+    Laisse le crime en paix, et poursuit l'innocence,
+    De quelque part sur moi que je trouve les yeux,
+    Je ne vois que malheurs qui condamnent lea Dieux,
+    Meritons leur courroux, justifions leur haine,
+    Et que le fruit du crime en precede la peine."
+
+It is a remark of Seneca, that the most sublime spectacle in nature is
+the view of a great man _struggling against_ misfortune, and such a
+character has ever been considered as the most appropriate subject for
+dramatic representation. The extreme difficulty of succeeding, in the
+very important passage which I have quoted, is obviously because the
+very reverse of such a spectacle is now presented to the mind,--when
+Orestes is made to abandon that distinction in _his fate_ which alone
+gave him any peculiar hold over the feelings of the spectators, and
+because the actor must continue to engage, even more deeply than
+before, their _interest_ and their _pity_, at the very time when the
+sentiments he utters must necessarily lower the dignity of the character
+he sustains, and diminish the compassion he had previously awakened.
+How, then, is that ascendency over the mind, which the singular destiny
+of Orestes naturally acquires, to be preserved, when he no longer is to
+be regarded as the innocent sufferer who claims our interest, and when
+he is content to descend to the level of ordinary men? In this very
+difficult passage Talma is eminently successful; no vehemence of manner
+accompanies the desperate resolution he expresses, the recollection of
+the misery he has suffered, and the dread of the greater misfortunes
+which his present intentions must bring upon him, seem wholly to
+overpower him, and his countenance, marked with the utmost dejection and
+wretchedness, appears still to appeal for mercy to the power which
+persecutes him. Everything in his appearance and voice conveys the
+impression of a person overwhelmed with misfortunes, and hurried on, by
+an impulse he cannot controul, into greater calamities, and more
+complicated misery. The very sentiment which he avows, seems to proceed
+from the over-ruling influence of a destiny which he has in vain
+attempted to resist, and to be only another proof of the unceasing
+persecution to which he is exposed; and though he no longer commands
+admiration, or deserves esteem, he becomes more than ever the object of
+the deepest commiseration. Talma appears to attach much importance to
+the impression which this passage may produce, as much of the view which
+he exhibits of the character of Orestes seems intended to assist its
+effect; and we certainly consider it as the greatest and most successful
+effort of _genius_, which we have ever seen displayed upon any stage.
+After witnessing this representation of the character of Orestes at this
+melancholy period of his life, it was with no ordinary interest that we
+shortly after saw Talma perform the part of Orestes in Iphigenie en
+Tauride, a play which represents very beautifully the only event in his
+life, which ever seemed likely to secure his happiness, the discovery of
+his sister; and we shall never forget the beautiful expression of
+Talma's countenance, and the delightful tones of his voice, when he
+described to his sister and his friend, the emotions which the feeling
+of happiness so new to him had created, and the hopes of future exertion
+and honour, which he now felt himself able to entertain.
+
+The last scene of this interesting tragedy is the most celebrated and
+most admired part in the range of Talma's characters, and undoubtedly it
+is impossible to find any acting more admirable or more affecting: After
+the death of Pyrrhus, he rushes upon the stage to inform Hermione that
+he had obeyed her dreadful commission, and to receive the reward of such
+a proof of his attachment; the horror of the crime which he had
+committed is sunk in his confidence of the claim he has now acquired to
+her gratitude, and he triumphantly relates the circumstances of the
+scene which had passed, as giving him such undeniable titles to the
+reward which had been promised to his firmness.--Madame de Stael has
+mentioned the effect he gives to the short and feeble reply which he
+makes, when Hermione accuses him of cruelty, and throws all the guilt of
+the murder on himself;--but it is in the subsequent part that he appears
+so great: After Hermione leaves him, and he recovers in some degree of
+the stupor which such an unexpected attack had produced, he repeats, in
+a hurried manner, the circumstances of his situation, and dwells on the
+perfidy of Hermione; but when he finds no palliation for his crime, and
+sees how completely he has been degraded by his unmanly weakness, the
+whole enormity of his guilt comes full upon his mind, and he acquires
+even dignity in the opinion of the beholder, from the solemn and
+emphatic manner in which he curses the folly and inhumanity of his
+conduct. But a further blow awaits him; and it is not till Pylades
+informs him of the death of Hermione, that the horrors of madness begin
+to seize on his mind. At first he remains motionless and thunderstruck
+with the dreadful issue of his enterprise; then, in a low and thrilling
+tone of voice, he laments the bitterness and misery of that destiny by
+which he is doomed to be for ever the victim of fate, (du malheur un
+modele accompli,) till the wildness of madness comes over him: In a
+voice hardly heard, he seems to ask himself, "Quelle epaisse nuit tout a
+coup m'environne, de quelle cote sortir? D'ou-vient que je frissonne.
+Quelle horreur me saisit?"--and at once a shriek, dreadful beyond all
+description, announces the destruction of reason, and the agonies of
+madness. It is vain to describe the wild, desperate, and horrifying
+manner in which he represents Orestes tortured by the frightful visions
+with which the furies had visited his mind, till his nature, exhausted
+by such intense sufferings, sinks at once into a calm, more dreadful
+even than the wildness which had preceded it.
+
+These remarks have been extended so much beyond the limits which can be
+interesting to those who have never seen this unrivalled actor, and to
+whom they can convey so very inadequate a notion of his powers, that it
+is impossible to make any further observations, which his performance in
+other characters may have suggested. The most interesting character,
+perhaps, in which we saw him perform after these, was Nero in
+Britannicus. Every person who has been in Paris, since the collection of
+statues was brought there, must have remarked the striking resemblance
+of Talma's countenance to the first busts of Nero; and this singular
+circumstance, along with the admirable manner in which he represents the
+impatient, headstrong, and profligate tyrant, rendered his acting in
+this character remarkably interesting. The opportunities Which he
+enjoyed of studying the character and the manner of Bonaparte,--who
+never forgot the assistance he received from Talma, when he first
+entered that city, where he was afterwards to govern with such unbounded
+power,--must have been present to his mind when he was preparing this
+difficult character; and if it is supposed that he must have been, even
+with this advantage, little able to imagine correctly the manner and
+deportment of so singular a character as the Roman Emperor, none will
+question the judgment, on this point, of that extraordinary person,
+under whose tyranny Talma so long lived, and who, as Talma has often
+declared, did actually suggest many improvements in the manner in which
+he had first acted the part.
+
+Mademoiselle Georges, the great tragic actress, was reckoned at one time
+the most beautiful woman in France. She is now grown very large, and her
+movements are, from that cause, stiff and constrained; but she is still
+a fine woman, and her countenance, though not very striking at first
+sight, is capable of wonderful variety and intensity of expression; her
+style of acting may be said to be intermediate between the matronly
+dignity and majestic deportment of Mrs Siddons, and the enchanting
+sweetness and feminine graces of Miss O'Neil. In the delineation of
+strong feelings and violent passions, of grief, madness, or despair, she
+will not suffer from comparison with either of these actresses; but we
+should doubt whether she can ever have inspired as much moral sympathy
+and admiration as the one has always commanded, by the elevation and
+grandeur of her representation of characters of exalted virtue, and the
+other daily wins, by the interesting tenderness of her manner, by the
+truth and energy of her impassioned scenes, and the overpowering pathos
+of her distress.
+
+The tragedy of OEdipe, by Voltaire, affords room for the display of the
+most characteristic qualities of Talma and Mademoiselle Georges; and
+when we saw them act OEdipus and Jocasta in this piece, we agreed that
+there were certainly no actor and actress, of equally transcendent
+merit, who act together in either of the London theatres. The distress
+of the play is of too horrible and repulsive a kind, we should conceive,
+to be ever admitted on the English stage; but it furnishes occasion for
+the display of consummate art in the imitation of the most terrible and
+overpowering emotions; and it is difficult to conceive a more powerful
+representation than they exhibited of the gloomy forebodings of
+suspicion, of the agonizing suspence of unsatisfied doubt, and the
+"sickening pang of hope deferred"--heightened, rather than diminished,
+by the consciousness of innocent intention, and the feeling of
+undeserved affliction, and giving way only to the certainty of
+irretrievable misery, and the phrenzy of utter despair.
+
+In concluding these remarks, upon a subject which interested us so much,
+we are anxious to offer some general reflections upon the character of
+the French stage, which were suggested by the observations we had an
+opportunity of making. It is far from being our intention, to enter into
+any discussion of the rules upon which the construction of their
+tragedies is supposed to depend, or to occupy the time of our readers,
+by useless remarks upon the sacrifices which it is said must be made, by
+strictly observing the _unities_ in dramatic compositions. Quite enough
+is known of the _defects_ of the French tragedy, and it is much to be
+regretted, that those who have had an opportunity of attending the
+French theatre, have generally carried their national prejudices along
+with them, and seem to have been more desirous to confirm the
+prepossessions they had previously acquired, than to form any fair and
+correct estimate of the merits of that drama. We are a little aware in
+general in this country, how much the composition of our own tragedies
+might be improved, and how much the effect of the talents which the
+stage displays might be increased, were we as candid in admitting the
+very great excellencies which the French stage possesses, as we have
+been desirous to discover its imperfections. Without presuming to
+attempt an examination of the French theatre, in the view of correcting
+what appear to us the errors in the public taste, we mean merely to
+state in what respects it appeared to us, that the impression left on
+the mind by the French tragedies is stronger and more lasting than any
+that we have experienced from attending our own theatres. Our conviction
+of the general superiority of the English stage has been already
+expressed, and therefore we hope we shall not be misapprehended in the
+object which we have in view in such remarks.
+
+1. In the first place, then, we would mention--what we hope is not
+necessary to illustrate at any length--the very great impression which
+must be made upon every thoughtful mind, by the unity of emotion which
+the French tragedies are fitted to produce. The effect which may result
+from this unity of emotion appears to excite much deeper interest, than
+can be produced by the mere exertion of the actors' power, when it is
+not uniformly directed to the expression of one general character. It is
+also worthy of consideration, whether the very important purposes to
+which the drama may be rendered subservient, may not be more easily
+accomplished, when the whole tendency of the composition, and the
+influence of acting, are employed in one general and consistent design.
+No such principle seems to have been kept in view in the composition of
+the greater part of the English tragedies. They resemble much, in truth,
+as we have before observed, the scene of human affairs, which the
+general aspect of the world presents,--full of every variety of
+incident, and depending upon the actions of a number of different
+characters. In the principal subject of the play, many seem to perform
+parts nearly of equal importance, and to be equally concerned in the
+issue of the story; each personage has his separate interest to claim
+our attention, and peculiar features of character, which require nice
+discrimination; and in general, no one character, or one subject, is
+sufficiently presented to view. The minds of the spectators, therefore,
+are oppressed and distracted by the variety of _feelings_ which are
+excited, and their interest interrupted and dissipated, in some degree,
+from the _variety of objects_ which claim it. The _general impression_,
+therefore, left upon the mind, is less pointed, less profound, and must
+produce less influence upon character, than when the feelings have been
+steadily and powerfully interested in the consequences of one marked
+and important event, or in the illustration of one great moral truth.
+
+2. We must be permitted to state, in the second place, that we think the
+French theatre is decidedly superior to our own, in the propriety and
+discrimination with which they keep out of view many of those
+exhibitions, which, on the English stage, are studiously brought forward
+with a view to effect: It would be altogether useless, to enter into any
+discussion of a question which has often been the subject of much idle
+controversy; nor should we be able, we know, to suggest any thing which
+could have any influence with those who think, that all the murders, and
+battles, and bustle, which occur in many of the grander scenes in the
+English tragedies, can increase the interest which such tragedies might
+produce, or contribute to the effect of theatrical illusion. We were not
+fortunate enough to see Talma in Ducis' play of Macbeth, where the
+difference between the French and English stage in this particular is
+very strongly illustrated; but from every thing we have, understood, of
+the wonderful impression which is produced, when he describes his
+interview with the weird sisters--the terrors which accompanied their
+appearance, and the feelings which their predictions awakened, we are
+persuaded that the effect must be much finer than any thing which can
+result from the feeble attempt to represent all this to the eye.
+Macbeth, however, without the witches, and all the clumsy machinery
+which is employed on the stage to carry through so impracticable a
+scene, would appear stripped of its principal beauties to the taste of a
+great part of an English audience; and yet we are perfectly convinced,
+that there is no one imperfection, in the plan or composition of the
+French tragedies, so deserving of censure, as the taste which can admit
+such representations on the stage. We allude, of course, entirely to the
+attempt to introduce this celebrated scene upon the stage; none can
+admire more than we do, the powerful and creative imagination which it
+displays.
+
+3. The next circumstance to which we allude, is that very remarkable
+one--of the dignity of sentiment, and elevation of thought, which
+uniformly characterise the compositions of the French stage. This is a
+perfection which, we believe, has never been denied by any one who is in
+any degree acquainted with these productions; and therefore we are
+anxious, as that very excellence has sometimes been thought to unfit
+them for actual representation, merely to state, from our own
+experience, the very great impression which such lofty and dignified
+sentiments, in the composition of the play, are fitted to produce. For
+ourselves we can say, that no dramatic representation on the English
+stage produced the same permanent effect with some of the greater
+compositions of the French tragedy; and we cannot but consider much of
+their influence to be owing to the sublime and elevating sentiments with
+which they abound. We could wish to see the tone of the tragedies which
+are _now_ presented for the English stage, animated by the same strain
+of dignified thought, and become more worthy of the approbation of a
+great, and enlightened, and virtuous people.
+
+Simple as these observations may appear, they yet suggest what we must
+consider as most important improvements in the composition and character
+of the English drama: The only tragedies which have been written for
+many years for our stage are, with a few exceptions, undeniably the
+feeblest productions in any branch of the national literature, and have
+in general carried, to the utmost extreme, the imperfections which
+existed in the works of those earlier writers whose genius and natural
+feeling they have never been able to equal. Whenever any change does
+occur in the character and tone of the tragedies of the English stage,
+we are persuaded that much will be gained by further acquaintance with
+the dramatic representations of the French theatre; and that the defects
+of our own theatre can only be avoided, by imitating some of the
+perfections of that drama, which we are accustomed at present so hastily
+to censure.
+
+We have only now to remark, that while the works of Corneille, of
+Racine, and Voltaire, must ever remain conspicuous in the French drama,
+we shall judge very erroneously of the present character of the French
+stage, if we are only acquainted with these compositions of earlier
+times. The consequences of the revolution have been felt in the tone of
+dramatic composition, as in every other branch of literature, and in
+every condition of society. The misfortunes which all classes of the
+people have sustained,--the anxiety, and suspence, and terror, which
+they so often felt, and the insecurity which so long seemed to attend
+every enjoyment of human life, accustomed them so much to scenes of deep
+interest, and to profound emotion, that it became necessary, in the
+theatre, to have recourse to more powerful means of exciting their
+compassion, and engaging their interest, than was always afforded by
+the tragedies of the old writers. The same change, then, which is
+observable in many other branches of the French literature of late
+years, seems to have taken place, to a considerable extent, in
+compositions for the stage; and from the serious and melancholy turn
+which was often given to the public mind, it has become requisite, in
+later writings, to introduce subjects of deeper interest, and more
+fitted to affect the imagination in moments of strong popular feeling,
+and of great national danger. Many of the reflections, therefore, which
+such circumstances suggested, have been introduced into the tragedies
+which have been composed during the very eventful period which has
+elapsed since the commencement of the revolution; and the authors have
+adapted, in a considerable degree, the interest, or the management of
+their plays, to those peculiar sentiments which the character of that
+period had given to the people. These sentiments may not always indicate
+very sound principle, or very elevated feeling, but, in the turn which
+has sometimes been given to the French plays, they are made to favour
+the introduction of much poetical beauty, and much dramatic interest. We
+have already mentioned, that there appears to be a vague, but general
+impression of the influence of _fatality_ upon human conduct, floating
+in the public mind; and though such a notion, probably, is seldom
+admitted in the shape of a distinct doctrine, many circumstances
+indicate, that among the body of the people, and among the army in
+particular, the influence of this superstition is very considerable. It
+is appealed to in many of those political writings which best indicate
+the feelings of those to whom they are addressed; and we have all
+remarked how much and how artfully their late ruler availed himself of
+this belief, to connect the ascendancy of his arms, and the prosperity
+of his dynasty, with the destiny of human affairs. On several very
+important occasions, the utmost possible interest has been given to the
+history of particular characters, in many recent tragedies, by employing
+this powerful feeling in the public mind; and it was very apparent, that
+the spectators took peculiar interest in the denouement of the plays in
+which this subject was introduced.
+
+In the works of Ducis, of Raynouard, and of several other recent
+writers, and in many of the plays formed from tragedies of the German
+school, very strong indications are to be found of the effect of the
+circumstances in which the people have been placed, in giving, in some
+respects, a new tone to dramatic compositions, and in calling forth
+productions of deeper interest, and capable of exciting more profound
+emotion, than could generally be produced by the works of the earlier
+periods of French literature.
+
+It is an animating proof of the ascendancy of virtuous feeling, and a
+striking illustration of the tendency of great assemblies of men, when
+not actuated by particular passions, to join in what is generous and
+elevated in human thought, that not only have the tragedies of the
+earlier writers continued to be universally admired, and constantly
+acted during the whole period of the revolution, but that the standard
+of sentiment has not been lowered in those productions which have been
+designed expressly for the French stage during that period, and that the
+dignity of ancient virtue, and the elevation of natural feeling, still
+ennoble the tone of French tragedy.
+
+* * *
+
+The French comedies and comic acting are not less characteristic of the
+people than their tragedies. They are a gay and lively, but not a
+humorous people. A Frenchman enters into amusements with an eagerness
+and relish, of which, in this country, we have no conception; all his
+cares and sorrows are forgotten; all his serious occupations are
+postponed; all his unruly passions are calmed;--he thinks neither of his
+individual misfortunes, nor of his national degradation; neither of the
+friends whom he has lost in the war, nor of the foreign soldiers whom it
+has placed at his elbow; his whole soul is absorbed in the game, in the
+dance, or in the _spectacle_. But his object is not laughter, or passive
+enjoyment, or relaxation; it is the excitation of his spirits, the
+occupation, and interest, and agitation of his mind, the varied
+gratification of his senses, the exercise of his fancy, the display of
+his wit, and taste, and politeness.
+
+The exhibitions at the theatres are accommodated to this taste. With the
+exception of some of Moliere's works, such as the Bourgeois Gentilhomme,
+and M. de Pourceaugnac, (which are seldom acted, at least at the Theatre
+Francais), there are hardly any French comedies which are characterised
+by what we call humour,--which have for their main object the
+representation of palpably ludicrous peculiarities of character and
+manner. You never hear, in a French theatre, the same loud
+uncontrollable bursts of laughter, which are so often excited by
+representations of this kind in London. There are no such actors, at the
+principal theatres, as Matthews, or Liston, or Bannister, or Munden, or
+Emery, whose principal merit lies in mimicry and buffoonery. There are
+hardly any entertainments corresponding in character to our farces; the
+after-pieces are short comedies, and characters in low life are
+introduced into them, not as objects of derision, but of interest and
+sympathy.
+
+On the other hand, operas and genteel comedies, which are esteemed only
+by the higher ranks in England, are a favourite amusement of all ranks
+in France. The qualities which are most highly prized in the comedies,
+are, interest and variety of incident and situation, wit and liveliness
+of dialogue, and a certain elevation and elegance of character.
+
+Regarding the character of the French tragedies, there will always be
+much difference of opinion; and many, probably, of those who have had
+the best opportunities of studying them, as performed upon the stage at
+Paris, may yet retain nearly the same judgment concerning them which
+they formed in reading them in the closet. And we are willing to admit,
+that admirable as they appear to us in many respects, they are not well
+adapted to become popular in this country. But the excellencies and
+unrivalled elegance of the French comedy, have been at all times
+universally admitted, while there is this great distinction between
+them and the tragedies of the French school, that however great the
+pleasure we may take in reading them, no one ever saw them well
+performed, without acknowledging, that until then, he had no conception
+of the astonishing field which they afford for the display of the
+actor's power, or of the innumerable charms which they possess as
+dramatic compositions.
+
+Everything that ever was amiable and engaging in the character of the
+French people; the elegance and _bon-hommie_ of their manners, which
+served as a passport to the French in every country in Europe, and
+softened the feelings of national resentment with which their ambition
+and their arrogance to other nations had taught many to regard them as a
+people; their well-known superiority to other nations in those
+circumstances, which render them agreeable and pleasant in society, in
+their constant attention and accommodation to the wishes and pursuits of
+others, in that anxiety to please, to entertain, and to promote the
+interests and happiness of others, which costs so little to those who
+are never subject to that unhappy irregularity of temper and spirit, so
+visible to all foreigners in the character of the English people, and
+which never fails to secure esteem, and to interest the affections,
+while superior worth, less happily gifted for the common purposes and
+intercourse of life, may be regarded with no warmer feeling than that of
+distant respect; the _loyaute_ and frankness once so closely associated
+with the history and character of the French people; the manliness which
+taught them at once to admit and to repair the wrongs which their
+impetuosity of spirit, or their harshness of feeling, might have
+occasioned, and the gallantry with which they were wont to defend with
+their sword what their honour bound them to maintain; and above all,
+that delightful and touching _abandon_ of feeling, which seemed the
+result of genuine simplicity, and which appeared to know no reserve,
+only because it knew no guilt; all these beautiful and interesting
+traits, which adorned the character of former and of later days, are
+still preserved in the comedies of their greater writers; the purity of
+former character seems to animate the pages which they write, and the
+spirit of earlier times seems yet to retain its ascendancy, when they
+wish to pourtray the manners of the present day.
+
+In the degradation of the present period, they delight to recall the
+splendour and the renown of the period that is past; and, by preserving
+in their works the character which adorned the French people before the
+profligacy and the insidious policy of a corrupt court disarmed the
+nation of its virtue, to reconcile it to slavery, they attempt to awaken
+a nobler spirit, and lay the foundation of future grandeur. Whatever has
+delighted us in reading the history of the earlier periods of the French
+monarchy, when the elevation of chivalrous feeling, and the
+disinterestedness of simple manners, distinguished the French people,
+and when the character of the great Henry displayed, in a more
+conspicuous station, the virtues which ennobled the duties of private
+life, is yet to be found in their best comedies. Among the many
+thousands who crowd to their numerous theatres, there are many, one
+would hope, who can feel the sad contrast which the last century of
+French history, "fertile only in crime," presents to the honour of
+former times, and in whom may be reviving that lofty and generous spirit
+which may yet redeem the character they have lost.
+
+It seems not a little singular, that this taste in comedy should have
+survived all the disorders of the revolution, and remained unchanged
+amid the general diffusion of military habits and manners. This may be
+partly explained by the circumstance, that the judges by whom theatrical
+exhibitions are mainly regulated, are stationary at Paris, while the
+men, whose actions have stamped the French character of the present day,
+have been dispersed over the world. But it must certainly be admitted,
+that the _taste_ of the French has not undergone an alteration
+corresponding with that which is so obvious in their _manners_; and has
+not degenerated to the degree that might have been expected, from the
+diffusion of revolutionary ideas and licentious habits. The Theatre
+Francais affords perhaps the best specimen that now remains of the style
+of conversation, and manners, and costume, of the old school of French
+politeness.
+
+For the representation of pieces bearing the general character which we
+have described, the French are certainly better fitted than any other
+people,--their native gaiety and sprightliness of disposition,--the
+polish which their manners so readily acquire,--their irrepressible
+confidence and self-conceit,--their love of shewing off, and attracting
+attention, give really a stage effect to many of their serious actions,
+and to almost all their trifling conversation and amusements. Hence, a
+stranger is particularly struck with the uniform excellence of the comic
+acting on the French stage; all the inferior parts ate sustained with
+spirit, and originality, and discriminating judgment; all the actors are
+at their ease, and a regular genteel comedy is as well acted
+throughout, as a farce is on the London stage.
+
+The greatest comic actor at the Theatre Francais is Fleury. He is an
+actor completely fitted for the French style of comedy. He gives you the
+idea of a perfect gentleman, with much wit and liveliness, and
+consummate confidence and self-possession; who delivers himself with
+inimitable archness and pleasantry, but without the least exaggeration
+or buffoonery; who has too high an opinion of himself and his powers, to
+descend to broad jokes or allusions belonging to the lower kinds of
+humour. Those who have an accurate recollection of the admirable acting
+of Irish Johnstone, in the characters of Major O'Flaherty, or Sir Lucius
+O'Trigger, will have a better conception, than any description of ours
+can convey, of the style of acting in which Fleury so eminently excels.
+
+Whatever may be thought of the other performers, none can see without
+pleasure the performances of that celebrated actress, who has so long
+been the ornament of the national theatre, and to whom the support of
+their comedy has been so long entrusted. During the greatest period of
+the revolution, Mademoiselle Mars has been the favourite and the
+delight of the people of Paris, and there is perhaps no feeling among
+them stronger, or more national, than the pride which they take in her
+incomparable acting; all the grace, and elegance, and genuine feeling
+which she so beautifully displays, they consider as belonging to her
+only because she is a French woman; and nothing would ever convince them
+that, had she been born in any other country, it would have been
+possible that she should possess half the perfections which they now
+admire in her.
+
+Mademoiselle Mars is probably as perfect an actress in comedy as any
+that ever appeared on any stage. She has united every advantage of
+countenance, and voice, and figure, which it is possible to conceive,
+and no one can ever have witnessed her incomparable acting, without
+feeling that the imagination can suggest nothing more completely
+lovely--more graceful, or more natural and touching than her
+representation of character. Mademoiselle Mars has been most exquisitely
+beautiful; and though the period is past when that beauty had all the
+brilliancy and freshness of youth, time appears hardly to have dared to
+lay his chilling hand on that lovely countenance, and she still acts
+characters which require all the naivete, and gaiety, and tenderness of
+youthful feeling, with every appearance of the spring of human life. It
+is remarked by Cibber, that a woman has hardly time to become a perfect
+actress, during the continuance of her personal attractions. If there
+ever was an exception to this remark, Mademoiselle Mars is one. She was
+an admired actress, we were assured, before the revolution; yet she has
+still, at least on the stage, a light elegant figure, and a countenance
+of youthful animation and beauty, while long experience has given that
+polish and perfection to her acting, which can be derived from no other
+source.
+
+It were in vain to attempt describing the innumerable excellencies which
+render her acting so perfectly enchanting;--the admirable manner in
+which the French comedies are performed is so particular to the stage of
+that country, that it would be quite fruitless to attempt to describe a
+style of acting unknown to the people of Britain; and of that style
+Mademoiselle Mars is the model. Every thing that can result from the
+truest elegance and gracefulness of manners--from the most genuine and
+lively _abandon_ of feeling,--from the most winning sweetness of
+expression, and the greatest imaginable gaiety and benevolence,
+displayed in one of the most beautiful women ever seen, and endowed with
+the most delightful and melodious voice, is united in Mademoiselle
+Mars; and all words were in vain, which would pretend to describe the
+bright and glittering vision which captivates the imagination. It is
+impossible to conceive any thing more perfect as a specimen of art, or
+more beautiful as an imitation of nature, than her representation of the
+kind of heroine most commonly to be found in a French comedy; lively and
+playful, yet elegant and graceful; entering with ardour into amusements,
+yet capable of deep feeling and serious reflection: fond of admiration
+and flattery, yet innocent and modest; full of petty artifice and
+coquetry, yet natural and unaffected in affairs of importance;
+capricious and giddy in appearance, but warm-hearted and affectionate in
+reality. It is a character to which there is a kind of approximation
+among many French women; and if it were as well supported by them in
+real life, as by her on the stage, it would be difficult even for French
+vanity to describe the fascination of their manner, in terms of
+admiration which would not command general assent. There is much
+variety, it must be added, in her powers. On one occasion, we saw her
+act Henriette in Les Femmes Savantes of Moliere, and Catau La Partie de
+Chasse de Henri IV, anL it was difficult to say whether most to admire
+the wit, and elegance, and police raillery of the woman of fashion, or
+the innocent gaiety, and interesting naivete of the simple peasant girl.
+
+There is no actress at present on the English stage of equal eminence in
+a similar line of parts. The exhibition which can best convey to an
+English reader some slight notion of her enchanting acting, is the
+manner in which Miss O'Neil performs the scene in Juliet with the old
+nurse; because it is probably exactly the manner in which Mademoiselle
+Mars would perform that scene, but cannot afford any conception of her
+excellence in scenes of higher interest and greater feeling. Mrs Jordan
+may have equalled her in gaiety, and probably excelled her in humorous
+expression, but we suspect she must always have been deficient in
+elegance and refinement. The actress who, we think, comes nearest to her
+in genteel comedy, is Mrs Henry Siddons, in her beautiful representation
+of such parts as Beatrice or Viola; but she has not the same appearance
+of natural light-hearted buoyancy and playfulness of disposition; you
+see occasional transient indications of a serious thoughtful turn of
+mind, which assumes gaiety and cheerfulness, rather than passes
+naturally into it; which you admire, because it places the actress in a
+more amiable light, but which takes off from the fidelity and perfection
+of her art.
+
+Wherever Mademoiselle Mars has acted, in every part of France, the
+enthusiasm which she inspires, and the astonishing interest which they
+take in her acting, is such as could be felt only in France. We were
+fortunately in Lyons when she came there, on leaving Paris during the
+course of last summer; and during the few days we were there, nothing
+appeared to be thought of but the merits of this unrivalled actress. The
+interest which the recent visit of _Madame_ had created, was altogether
+lost in the delight which the performance of Mademoiselle Mars had
+occasioned: She was crowned publicly in the theatre with a garland of
+flowers, and a fete was celebrated in honour of her by the public bodies
+and authorities of the town.
+
+* * *
+
+Corresponding to the Opera House in London, there are three theatres in
+Paris; the Odeon, the Opera Comique, and the Academie de Musique. At the
+first of these there is an immense company of musicians, of all kinds;
+and Italian Operas are admirably performed. It is the handsomest, and
+perhaps the most genteelly attended of any of the Parisian theatres.
+The music here, as well as the musicians, are all Italian; and there
+can certainly be no comparison between it and the French, which is
+generally feeble and insipid in pathetic expression, and extravagant and
+bombastic in all attempts at grandeur. The first singer at the Odeon was
+Madame Sessi, who has since been in London; but Madame Morelli, with a
+voice somewhat inferior in power, appeared to us a more elegant actress.
+The performance of Girard on the flute was wonderful, and met with
+extravagant applause, but it was somewhat too laboured and artificial
+for our untutored ears:
+
+The Opera Comique is confined almost exclusively to the sort of
+entertainment which the name expresses: the scenes are generally laid in
+the country, and the characters introduced are of the lower orders: the
+pieces commonly represented belong to the same class, therefore, as the
+English operas, Love in a Village, Rosina, &c. but the dialogue is in
+general more animated, less vulgar in the lower parts, and less
+sentimental in the higher. The number of performers at this theatre is
+not very great; but there are some good singers and dancers, and the
+acting is almost uniformly excellent. Indeed, the French character is
+peculiarly well fitted for assuming the gay and lively tone that
+pervades their _opera buffa_, which may be characterised as amusing and
+interesting in general, rather than comic; as full of spirit and
+vivacity, rather than of humour. Occasionally, however, characters and
+incidents of true humour are introduced; but these are in general
+considered as belonging to a lower species of amusement; and are to be
+found in higher perfection, we believe, in some of the inferior
+theatres, particularly the Theatre des Varietes.
+
+The acting at the Opera Comique appeared to us deserving of the same
+encomiums with the comic acting at the Theatre Francais: every part is
+well supported, not with the elegance that characterises the latter
+theatre, but with perfect adaptation to the situation of the characters.
+A Mademoiselle Regnaud, of this theatre, acts with admirable liveliness
+and spirit. Her quarrel and reconciliation with her lover, in "Le
+Nouveau Seigneur du Village," appeared to us a chef d'oeuvre of the light
+and pleasing style of acting, which suits the character of the French
+comic opera.
+
+The Academie de Musique, (which is celebrated for dancers, not for
+musicians), is on a very different plan from the opera in London. The
+performers being in part supported by government, the prices of
+admission are made very low; and the company, particularly in the
+parterre, or pit, is therefore of a much lower class than in London,
+though perfect decorum is, as usual, uniformly observed. The
+performances at this theatre are, we think, decidedly superior to those
+in the London opera. This superiority consists partly in the pre-eminent
+merits of the first-rate dancers; but chiefly in the uniform excellence
+of the vast number of inferior performers, the beauty of the scenery,
+and the complete knowledge of stage effect, which is displayed in all
+the arrangements of the representations.
+
+We believe there are not at present, on the London stage, any dancers of
+equal merit with Madame Gardel, or Mademoiselle Bigottini. The former of
+these is said to be 45 years of age, and has long been reckoned the best
+figurante on this stage. Her face is not handsome, but her figure is
+admirably formed for the display of her art, of which she is probably
+the most perfect mistress to be found in Europe. The latter, an Italian
+by birth, is much younger, and if she does not yet quite equal her rival
+in artificial accomplishments, she at least attracts more admirers by
+her youth and beauty; by the exquisite symmetry of her form, and the
+natural grace and elegance of her movements. The one of these is
+certainly the first dancer, and the other is perhaps the most beautiful
+woman in Paris.
+
+But the same unfortunate peculiarity of taste which we formerly noticed
+in the painting and in the gardening of the French, extends to their
+opera dancing; indeed it may be said to be the worst feature of their
+general taste. They are too fond of the exhibition of art, and too
+regardless of the object, to which art should be made subservient.
+Dancing should never be considered as a mere display of agility and
+muscular power. It is then degraded to a level with Harlequin's tricks,
+wrestling, tumbling, or such other fashionable entertainments. The main
+object of the art unquestionably is, to display in full perfection the
+beauty and grace of the human form and movements. In so far as perfect
+command of the limbs is necessary, or may be made subservient to this
+object, it cannot be too much esteemed; but when you pass this limit, it
+not only ceases to be pleasing, but often becomes positively offensive.
+Many of the _pirouettes_, and other difficult movements, which are
+introduced into the _pas seuls, pas de deux_, &c. in which the great
+dancers display their whole powers, however wonderful as specimens of
+art, are certainly any thing but elegant or graceful. The applause in
+the French opera seemed to us to be in direct proportion to the
+difficulty, and to bear no relation whatever to the beauty of the
+performances. A Frenchman regards, with perfect indifference, dances
+which, to a stranger at least, appear performed with inimitable grace,
+because they are only common dances, admirably well executed; but when
+one of the male performers, after spinning about for a long time, with
+wonderful velocity, arrests himself suddenly, and stands immoveable on
+one foot; or when one of the females wheels round on the toes of one
+foot, holding her other limb nearly in a horizontal position--he breaks
+out into extravagant exclamations of astonishment and delight: "Quel a
+plomb! Ah diable! Sacre Dieu!" &c.
+
+But although the principal dances at the Opera, and those on which the
+French chiefly pride themselves, are much injured, in point of beauty,
+by this artificial taste, the execution of the less laboured parts of
+these dances, and of nearly the whole of their common national dances,
+is quite free from this defect, and is, we should conceive, the most
+beautiful exhibition of the kind that is any where to be seen. It is
+only in a city where amusements of all kinds are sought for, not merely
+by way of relaxation, but as matters of serious interest and national
+concern, and where dancing, in particular, is an object of universal and
+passionate admiration, that such numbers of first-rate dancers can be
+found, as perform constantly at the Academie de Musique. The whole
+strength of the company there, which often appeared on the stage at the
+time we speak of, was certainly not less than 150; and there were hardly
+any of these whose performance was not highly pleasing, and did not
+present the appearance of animation and interest in the parts assigned
+them.
+
+Many of the serious operas performed here are exceedingly beautiful;
+they are got up, not perhaps at more expense, nor with more
+magnificence, than the spectacles in London, but certainly with more
+taste and knowledge of stage effect. Tie scenery is beautifully painted,
+and is disposed upon the stage with more variety, and in such a manner
+as to form a more complete illusion, than on any other stage we have
+seen. The music and singing are certainly inferior to what is heard at
+the Odeon, but the acting, where it is not injured by the effect of the
+recitative, is very generally excellent; and the number and variety of
+dances introduced, afford opportunities of displaying all the
+attractions of this theatre.
+
+The pantomimes are uniformly executed with inimitable grace and effect.
+We were particularly pleased with that called L'Enfant Prodigue, in
+which the powers and graces of Mademoiselle Bigottini are displayed to
+all possible advantage. One of the most splendid of the serious operas,
+is that entitled Le Caravansera de Cairo, the scenery of which was
+painted in Egypt, by one of the artists who accompanied Napoleon
+thither, and is beyond comparison the most highly finished and beautiful
+that we have ever seen, and gives an idea of the aspect of that country,
+which no other work of art could convey. Another opera, which attracted
+our attention, was called "Ossian, ou les Bardes." One of the scenes,
+where the heroes and heroines of departed times are seen seated on the
+clouds, displayed a degree of magnificence which made it a fit
+representation of "the dream of Ossian." Some of the Highland scenery in
+this opera was really like nature; and the dresses, particularly the
+cambric and vandyked kilts, bore some distant analogy to the real
+costume of the Highlanders; and although we could not gratify the
+Parisians who sat by us, by admitting the resemblance of the female
+figures, who skipped about the stage with single muslin petticoats, and
+pink and white kid slippers, to the "Montagnardes Ecossaises _c'est a
+dire demi-sauvages_," whom they were intended to represent, we at least
+flattered their vanity, by expressing our wish that the latter had
+resembled the former.
+
+But the most beautiful of all the exhibitions at the Academie de
+Musique, are the ballets which represent pastoral scenes and rural
+fetes, such as Colinette a la Cour, L'Epreuve Villageoise, &c. It is
+singular, that in a city, the inhabitants of which have so entire a
+contempt for rural enjoyments, pieces of this kind should form so
+favourite a theatrical entertainment; but it must be confessed, that
+such scenes as form the subject of these ballets, occur but seldom in
+the course of a country life, and never in the degree of perfection in
+which they are represented in Paris. The union of rustic simplicity and
+innocence, with the polish and refinement which are acquired by
+intercourse with the world, may be conceived by the help of these
+exhibitions, but can hardly be witnessed in real life. The illusion,
+however, when such scenes are exhibited, is exceedingly pleasing; and no
+where certainly is this illusion so perfect as in the Academie de
+Musique, where the charming scenery, the enlivening music, the number
+and variety of characters, which are supported with life and spirit, the
+beauty of the female performers, and the graceful movements, and lively
+animated air of all;--if they do not recall to the spectator any thing
+which he has really witnessed, seem to transport him into the more
+delightful regions in which his fancy has occasionally wandered, and to
+realize for a moment to him, those fairy scenes to which his youthful
+imagination had been familiarized, by the beautiful fictions of poetry
+or romance.
+
+* * *
+
+The Parisian theatres are at all times sources of much amusement and
+delight; but at the time of which we speak, they were doubly
+interesting, as affording opportunities of seeing the most distinguished
+characters of this eventful age; and as furnishing occasional strong
+indications of the state of popular feeling in France. The interest of
+occurrences of this last kind is now gone by, and it is almost
+unnecessary for us to bear testimony to the strong party that uniformly
+manifested itself when any sentiment was uttered expressive of a wish
+for war, of admiration of martial achievements, and of indignation at
+foreign influence, or domestic perfidy, (under which head the conduct of
+Talleyrand and of Marmont was included); and more especially, when the
+success, and glory, and _eternal, immutable, untarnished_ honour of
+France, were the theme of declamation. The applause at passages of this
+last description seemed sometimes ludicrous enough, when the theatres
+were guarded by Russian grenadiers, and nearly half filled with allied
+officers, loaded with honours which had been won in combating the French
+armies.
+
+The majority of the audience, however, appeared always delighted at the
+change of government, and in the opera in particular, the first time
+that the King appeared, the expression of loyalty was long, reiterated,
+and enthusiastic, far beyond our most sanguine anticipations. It would
+have been absurd to judge of the real feelings of the majority of the
+Parisians, still more of the nation at large, from this scene; and it
+was certainly not to be wished, that a blind and devoted loyalty to one
+sovereign should take the place of infatuated attachment to another; yet
+it was impossible not to sympathize with the joy of people who had been
+agitated, during the best part of their lives, by political convulsions,
+or oppressed by military tyranny, but who fancied themselves at length
+relieved from both; and who connected the hope of spending the
+remainder of their days in tranquillity and peace, with the
+recollections which they had received from their fathers, of the
+happiness and prosperity of their country under the long line of its
+ancient kings. It was impossible to hear the national air of "Vive Henri
+Quatre," and the enthusiastic acclamations which accompanied it, without
+entering for the moment into the feeling of unhesitating attachment, and
+unqualified loyalty, which has so long prevailed in most countries of
+the world, but which the citizens of a free country should indulge only
+when it has been deserved by long experience and tried virtue.
+
+It was with different, but not less interesting feelings, that we
+listened to the same tune from the splendid bands of the Russian and
+Prussian guards, as they passed along the Boulevards; on their return to
+their own countries; It was a grand and moving spectacle of political
+virtue, to see the armies which had been arrayed against France,
+striving to do honour to the government which she had assumed:--instead
+of breathing curses, or committing outrages on the great and guilty
+city, which had provoked all their vengeance, to see them march out of
+the gates of Paris with the regularity of the strictest military
+discipline, to the sound of the grand national air, which spoke "peace
+to her walls, and prosperity to her palaces,"--leaving, as it were, a
+blessing on the capital which they had conquered and forgiven: It was a
+scene that left an impression on the mind worthy of the troops who had
+bravely and successfully opposed the domineering power of France,--who
+had struggled with it when it was strongest, and "ruled it when 'twas
+wildest," but who spared it when it was fallen;--who forgot their wrongs
+when it was in their power to revenge them;--who cast the laurels from
+their brows, as they passed before the rightful monarch of France, and
+honoured him as the representative of a great and gallant people, long
+beguiled by ambition, and abused by tyranny, but now acknowledging their
+errors, and professing moderation and repentance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+PARIS--THE FRENCH ARMY AND IMPERIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+IT is certainly a mistake to suppose, that the military power of France
+was first created by Napoleon, or that military habits were actually
+forced on the people, with the view of aiding his ambitious projects.
+The French have a restless, aspiring, enterprising spirit, not
+accompanied, as in England, by a feeling of individual importance, and a
+desire of individual independence, but modified by habits of submission
+to arbitrary power, and fitted, by the influence of despotic government,
+for the subordination of military discipline. Add to this, the
+encouragement which was held out by the rapid promotion of soldiers
+during the wars of the revolution, when the highest military offices
+were not only open to the attainment, but were generally appropriated to
+the claims of men who rose from the ranks; and the general
+dissemination, at that period, of an unbounded desire for violence and
+rapine: And it will probably be allowed, that the spirit of the French
+nation, at the time when he came to the head of it, was truly and almost
+exclusively military. He was himself a great soldier; he rose to the
+supreme government of a great military people, and he availed himself of
+their habits and principles to gratify his ambition, and extend his
+fame; but he ought not to be charged with having created the spirit,
+which in fact created him; a spirit so powerful, and so extensively
+diffused, that in comparison with it, even his efforts might be said to
+be "dashing with his oar to hasten the cataract;" to be "waving with his
+fan to give speed to the wind." The favourite saying of Napoleon, "Every
+Frenchman is a soldier, and as such, at the disposal of the Emperor,"
+expresses a principle which was not merely enforced by arbitrary power,
+but engrafted on the character and habits of the French people.
+
+The French are certainly admirably fitted for becoming soldiers: they
+have a restless activity, which surmounts difficulties, a buoyancy and
+elasticity of disposition, which rises superior to hardships, and
+calamities, and privations, not with patient fortitude, but with ease
+and cheerfulness. A Frenchman does not regard war, merely as the serious
+struggle in which his patriotism and valour are to be tried; he loves it
+for its own sake, for the interest and agitation it gives to his mind;
+it is his "game,--his gain,--his glory,--his delight." Other nations of
+Europe have become military, in consequence of threats or injuries, of
+the dread of hostile invasion, of the presence of foreign armies, or the
+galling influence of foreign power; but if the origin of the French
+military spirit may be traced to similar sources, it must at least be
+allowed, that the effect has been out of all proportion to the cause.
+
+It is probable, however, that the effervescence of military ideas and
+feelings, which arose out of the revolution, would have gradually
+subsided, had it not been for the fostering influence of the imperial
+government. The turbulent and irregular energies of a great people let
+loose from former bonds, received a fixed direction, and were devoted to
+views of military ascendancy and national aggrandizement under Napoleon.
+The continued gratification of the French vanity, by the fame of
+victories and the conquest of nations, completed the effect on the
+manner and habits of the people, which the events of the revolution had
+begun. Napoleon well knew, that in flattering this ruling propensity, he
+took the whole French nation on their weak side, and he had some reason
+for saying, that their thirst for martial glory and political influence
+ought to be a sufficient apology to them for all the wars into which he
+plunged them.
+
+It is impossible to spend even a few days in France without seeing
+strong indications of the prevailing love of military occupations, and
+admiration of military merit. The common peasants in the fields shew, by
+their conversation, that they are deeply interested in the glory of the
+French arms, and competent to discuss the manner in which they are
+conducted. In the parts of the country which had been the seat of war,
+we found them always able to give a good general description of the
+military events that had taken place; and when due allowance was made
+for their invariable exaggeration of the number of the allied troops,
+and concealment of that of the French, these accounts, as far as we
+could judge by comparing them with the official details, and with the
+information of officers who had borne a part in the campaign, were
+tolerably correct. The fluency with which they talked of military
+operations, of occupying positions, cutting off retreats, defiling over
+bridges, debouching from woods, advancing and retreating, marching and
+bivouacking, shewed the habitual current of their thoughts; and they
+were always more willing to enter on the details of such operations,
+than to enumerate their own losses, or dwell on their individual
+sufferings.
+
+A similar eagerness to enter into conversation on military subjects, was
+observable in almost all Frenchmen of the lower orders, with whom we had
+any dealings. Our landlord at Paris, a quiet sickly man, who had no
+connection with the army, and who had little to say for himself on most
+subjects, displayed a marvellous fluency on military tactics; and seemed
+to think that no time was lost which was employed in haranguing to us on
+the glory and honour of the French army, and impressing on our minds its
+superiority to the allies.
+
+Indeed, the whole French nation certainly take a pride in the deeds of
+their brethren in arms, which absorbs almost all other feelings; and
+which is the more singular, as it does not appear to us to be connected
+with strong or general affection or gratitude for any particular
+individual. It was not the fame of any one General but the general
+honour of the French arms, about which they seemed anxious. We never met
+with a Frenchman, of any rank, or of any political persuasion, who
+considered the French army as fairly overcome in the campaign of 1814;
+and the shifts and contrivances by which they explained all the events
+of the campaign, without having recourse to that supposition, were
+wonderfully ingenious. The best informed Frenchmen whom we met in Paris,
+even those who did not join in the popular cry of treason and corruption
+against Marmont, regarded the terms granted by Alexander to their city,
+as a measure of policy rather than of magnanimity. They uniformly
+maintained, that the possession of the heights of Belleville and
+Montmartre did not secure the command of Paris: that if Marmont had
+chosen, he might have defended the town after he had lost these
+positions; and that, if the Russians had attempted to take the town by
+force, they might have succeeded, but would have lost half their army.
+Indeed, so confidently were these propositions maintained by all the
+best informed Frenchmen, civil or military, royalist of imperialist,
+whom we met, that we were at a loss whether to give credit to the
+statement uniformly given us by the allied officers, that the town was
+completely commanded by those heights, and might have been burnt and
+destroyed, without farther risk on the part of the assailants, after
+they were occupied. The English officers, with whom we had an
+opportunity of conversing on this subject, seemed divided in opinion
+regarding it; and we should have hesitated to which party to yield our
+belief, had not the conduct of Napoleon and his officers in the campaign
+of the present year, the extraordinary precautions which they took to
+prevent access to the positions in question, by laying the adjacent
+country under water, and fortifying the heights themselves, clearly
+shewn the importance, in a military point of view, which is really
+attached to them.
+
+The credulity of the French, in matters connected with the operations of
+their armies, often astonished us. It appeared to arise, partly from the
+scarcity of information in the country; from their having no means of
+confirming, correcting, or disproving the exaggerated and garbled
+statements which were laid before them; and partly from their national
+vanity, which disposed them to yield a very easy assent to every thing
+that exalted their national character. In no other country, we should
+conceive, would such extravagant and manifestly exaggerated statements
+be swallowed, as the French soldiers are continually in the habit of
+dispersing among their countrymen. From the style of the conversation
+which we were accustomed to hear at _caffes_ and _tables d'hote_, we
+should conceive, that the French bulletins, which appeared to us such
+models of gasconade, were admirably well fitted, not merely to please
+the taste, but even to regulate the belief, or at least the professions
+of belief, of the majority of French politicians, with regard to the
+events they commemorate.
+
+The general interest of a nation in the deeds and honours of its army,
+is the best possible security for its general conduct; and it must be
+admitted, that in those qualities which are chiefly valued by the French
+nation, the French army was never surpassed; while it is equally
+obvious, that both the army and the people have at present little regard
+for some of the finest virtues which can adorn the character of
+soldiers.
+
+The grand characteristic of the French army, on which both the soldiers
+and the people pride themselves, is what was long ago ably pointed out
+by the author of the "Caractere des Armees Europeennes Actuelles"--the
+individual intelligence and activity of the soldiers. They were taken
+at that early age, when the influence of previous habit is small, and
+when the character is easily moulded into any form that is wished; they
+were accustomed to pride themselves on no qualities, but those which are
+serviceable against their enemies, and they had before them the most
+animating prospect of rewards and promotion, if their conduct was
+distinguished. Under these circumstances, the native vigour, and
+activity, and acuteness of their minds, took the very direction which
+was likely, not merely to make them good soldiers, but to fit them for
+becoming great officers; and this ultimate destination of his
+experience, and ability, and valour, has a very manifest effect on the
+mind of the French soldier. We hardly ever spoke to one of them, of any
+rank, about any of the battles in which he had been engaged, without
+observing, that he had in his head a general plan of the action, which
+he always delivered to us with perfect fluency, in the technical
+language of war, and with quite as much exaggeration as was necessary
+for his purpose. What he wanted in correct information, he would
+assuredly make up with lies, but he would seldom fail to give a general
+consistent idea of the affair; and it was obvious, that the manoeuvres
+of the armies, and the conduct of the generals, on both sides, had
+occupied as much of his consideration and reflection, as his own
+individual dangers and adventures.
+
+When we afterwards entered into conversation with some English private
+soldiers, at Brussels and Antwerp, concerning the actions they had seen,
+we perceived a very marked difference. They were very ready to enter
+into details concerning all that they had themselves witnessed, and very
+anxious to be perfectly correct in their statements; but they did not
+appear ever to have troubled their heads about the general plan of the
+actions. They had abundance of technical phrases concerning their own
+departments of the service; but very few words relative to the
+manoeuvring of large bodies of men. Their rule seemed to be, to do their
+own duty, and let their officers do theirs; the principle of the
+division of labour seemed to prevail in military, as well as in civil
+affairs, much more extensively in England than in France.
+
+The soldiers of the French imperial guard, in particular, are remarkably
+intelligent, and in general very communicative. We entered into
+conversation with some of these men at La Fere, and from one of them,
+who had been in the great battle at Laon, we had fully as distinct an
+account of that action as we are able to collect, the next day, from
+several officers who accompanied us from St Quentin to Cambray, and who
+had likewise been engaged in it. When we asked him the numbers of the
+two armies on that day, he replied without the least hesitation, that
+the allied army was 100,000 and the French 30,000.--Another of these men
+had been at Salamanca, and after we had granted his fundamental
+assumption, that the English army there was 120,000 strong, and the
+French 40,000, he proceeded to give us a very good account of the
+battle.
+
+These men, as well as almost all the French officers and soldiers with
+whom we had opportunities at different times of conversing, gave their
+opinions of the allied armies without any reserve, and with considerable
+discrimination. Of the Russians and Prussians they said, "Ils savent
+bien faire la guerre; ils sont de bons soldats;" but of the common
+soldiers of these services in particular, they said, "Ils sont tres
+forts, et durs comme l'ame du diable--mais ils sont des veritables
+betes; ils n'ont point d'intelligence. La puissance de l'armee
+Francaise," they added, with an air of true French gasconade, "est dans
+l'intelligence des soldats."--Of the Austrians, they said, "Ils brillent
+dans leur cavalerie, mais pour leur infanterie, elle ne vaut rien."
+
+From these soldiers we could extract no more particular character of the
+English troops, than "Ils se battent bien," But it is doing no more than
+justice to the French officers, even such as were decidedly imperialist,
+who conversed with us at Paris, and in different parts of the country,
+to acknowledge that they uniformly spoke in the highest terms of the
+conduct of the English troops. The expression which they very commonly
+used, in speaking of the manner in which the English carried on the war
+in Spain, and in France, was, "loyaute." "Les Russes, et les Prussiens,"
+they said, "sont des grands et beauxhommes, mais ils n'ont pas le coeur
+ou la loyaute des Anglais. Les Anglais sont la nation du monde qui font
+la guerre avec le plus de loyaute," &c. This referred partly to their
+valour in the field, and partly to their humane treatment of prisoners
+and wounded; and partly also to their honourable conduct in France,
+where they preserved the strictest discipline, and paid for every thing
+they took. Of the behaviour of the English army in France, they always
+spoke as excellent:--"digne de leur civilization."
+
+A French officer who introduced himself to us one night in a box at the
+opera, expressing his high respect for the English, against whom, he
+said, he had the honour to fight for six years in Spain, described the
+steadiness and determination of the English infantry in attacking the
+heights on which the French army was posted at Salamanca, in terms of
+enthusiastic admiration. Another who had been in the battle of Toulouse,
+extolled the conduct of the Highland regiments in words highly
+expressive of
+
+    "The stern joy which warriors feel,
+    In foemen worthy of their steel."
+
+"Il y a quelques regimens des Ecossais sans culottes," said he, "dans
+l'armee de Wellington, qui se battent joliment." He then described the
+conduct of one regiment in particular, (probably the 42d or 79th), who
+attacked a redoubt defended with cannon, and marched up to it in perfect
+order; never taking the muskets from their shoulders, till they were on
+the parapet: "Si tranquillement,--sacre Dieu! c'etoit superbe."
+
+Of the military talents of the Duke of Wellington they spoke also with
+much respect, though generally with strong indications of jealousy. They
+were often very ingenious in devising means of explaining his
+victories, without compromising, as they called it, the honour of the
+French arms. At Salamanca, they said, that in consequence of the wounds
+of Marmont and other generals, their army was two hours without a
+commander. At Vittoria again, it was commanded by Jourdan, and any body
+could beat Jourdan. At Talavera, he committed "les plus grandes sottises
+du monde; il a fait une contre-marche digne d'un bete." Some of the Duke
+of Wellington's victories over Soult they stoutly denied, and others
+they ascribed to great superiority of numbers, and to the large drafts
+of Soult's best troops for the purpose of forming skeleton battalions,
+to receive the conscripts of 1813.
+
+The French pride themselves greatly on the _honour_ of their soldiers,
+and in this quality they uniformly maintain that they are unrivalled, at
+least on the continent of Europe. To this it is easy to reply, that,
+according to the common notions of honour, it has been violated more
+frequently and more completely by the French army than by any other. But
+this is in fact eluding the observation rather than refuting it. The
+truth appears to be, that the French _soldiers_ have a stronger sense of
+honour than those of almost any other service; but that the _officers_,
+having risen from the ranks, have brought with them to the most exalted
+stations, no more refined or liberal sentiments than those by which the
+private soldiers are very frequently actuated; and have, on the
+contrary, acquired habits of duplicity and intrigue, from which their
+brethren in inferior situations are exempt.
+
+When we say of the French soldiers that they have a strong sense of
+honour, we mean merely to express, that they will encounter dangers, and
+hardships, and privations, and calamities of every kind, with wonderful
+fortitude, and even cheerfulness, from no other motive than an _esprit
+du corps_--a regard for the character of the French arms. Without
+provocation from their enemies, without the prospect of plunder, without
+the hope of victory, without the conviction of the interest of their
+country in their deeds, without even the consolation of expecting care
+or attention in case of wounds or sickness,--they will not hesitate to
+lavish their blood, and sacrifice their lives, _for the glory of
+France_. Other troops go through similar scenes of suffering and danger
+with equal fortitude, when under the influence of strong passions, when
+fired by revenge, or animated by the hope of plunder, or cheered by the
+acclamations of victory; but with the single exception of the British
+army, we doubt whether there are any to whom the mere spirit of military
+honour is of itself so strong a stimulus.
+
+We have already noticed the state of the French sick and wounded, left
+in the hospitals at Wilna during the retreat from Russia; a state so
+deplorable, as to have excited the strongest commiseration among their
+indignant enemies. This, however, was but a single instance of the
+system almost uniformly acted on, we have understood, by the French
+medical staff in Russia, Germany, and Spain, of deserting their
+hospitals on the approach of the enemy, so as to leave to him, if he did
+not chuse to see the whole of the patients perish before his eyes, the
+burden of maintaining them. The miseries which this system must have
+occasioned, in the campaign of 1813 in particular, require no
+illustration.
+
+Another regulation of the French army, during the campaign of that year,
+will shew the utter carelessness of its leaders, in regard to the lives
+or comforts of the soldiers. When the men who were incapacitated for
+service by wounds or disease, were sent back to France, they were
+directed, in the first instance, to Mentz, where their uniforms, and any
+money they might have about them, were regularly taken from them, and
+given to the young conscripts who were passing through to join the
+armies; they were then dressed in miserable old rags, which were
+collected in the adjacent provinces by Jews employed for that purpose,
+and in this state they were sent to _beg_ their way to their homes.
+Such, as we were assured by some of our countrymen, who saw many of
+these men passing through Verdun, was the reward of thousands of the
+"_grande nation_" who had lost their limbs or their health in vainly
+endeavouring to maintain the glory and influence of their country in
+foreign states. In the campaign of 1814, which was carried on during the
+continuance of a frost of almost unprecedented intensity, and in so
+rapid and variable a manner, and with so large bodies of troops, as to
+prevent the establishment of regular hospitals or of any thing like a
+regular Commissariat, the French troops, particularly the young
+conscripts and national guards, suffered dreadfully; and numbers of them
+who escaped the swords of their enemies, perished miserably or were
+disabled for life, in consequence of hardships, and fatigues, and
+privations.
+
+All these examples were known to the French soldiers--they took place
+daily before their eyes, and, in the last instance, the allies took
+pains to let them know, that the only obstacle to honourable peace was
+the obstinacy of their commander; yet their ardour continued unabated;
+the young soldiers displayed a degree of valour in every action of both
+campaigns, which drew forth the warm applause even of their enemies; and
+it is not to be doubted, that the troops whom Napoleon collected at
+Fontainbleau, at the end of the campaign in France, were
+enthusiastically bent on carrying into effect the frantic resolution of
+attacking Paris, then occupied by a triple force of the allies, from
+which his officers with difficulty dissuaded him.
+
+In like manner, there is probably no general but Napoleon, who would not
+have attempted to terminate the miseries of the army during the retreat
+from Moscow, by entering into negotiation with the Russians; nor is
+there any army but the French which would have tamely consented to be
+entirely sacrificed to the obstinacy of an individual. But to have
+concluded a convention with the Russians would have been _compromising
+the honour of the French arms_; and this little form of words seemed to
+strike more terror to the hearts of the French soldiers, than either the
+swords of the Russians, or the dreary wastes and wintry storms of
+Russia, which might have been apostrophised in the words of the poet,
+
+    "Alas! even your unhallowed breath
+    May spare the victim fallen low,
+    But man will ask no truce to death,
+    No bounds to human woe."
+
+"He saw, without emotion, (says Labaume), the miserable remains of an
+army, lately so powerful, defile before him; yet his presence never
+excited a murmur; on the contrary, it animated even the most timid, who
+were always tranquil when in presence of the emperor." At the present
+moment, from all the accounts that we have received, as well as from our
+own observations of those French soldiers whom we have ourselves seen
+after their return from Moscow, the sentiments of the survivors of that
+expedition with regard to Napoleon remained unchanged; and no person who
+has read any of the narratives of the campaign can ascribe their
+constancy to any other cause, than that feeling of attachment to the
+glory of their country, to which the French, however improperly, give
+the name of military honour.
+
+If the character of the French soldiers is deserving of high admiration
+for their constancy and courage, it must be observed, on the other
+hand, that there is a mixture of _selfishness_ in it, an utter disregard
+of the feelings, and indifference as to the sufferings, not merely of
+their enemies, or of the inhabitants of the countries which they
+traverse, but even of their best friends and companions, which forbids
+us to go farther in their praise. It is as unnecessary, as it would be
+painful, to enter on an enumeration of the instances of wanton cruelty,
+violence, and rapacity, which have sullied the fame of their most
+brilliant deeds in arms. It will be long before the French name will
+recover the disgrace which the remembrance of such scenes as Moscow, or
+Saragossa, or Tarragona, has attached to it, in every country of Europe;
+and it is impossible to have a more convincing proof of the tyrannical
+and oppressive conduct of the French armies in foreign states, than the
+universal enthusiasm with which Europe has risen against them,--the
+indignant and determined spirit with which all ranks of every country
+have united to rid themselves of an oppression, not less galling to
+their individual feelings, than degrading to their national character.
+But it is particularly worthy of remark, that the latest and most
+authentic writers in France itself, who have given any account of the
+French armies, have, noticed selfishness, and disregard of the feelings
+of their own comrades, as well as of all other persons, as one of the
+most prominent features of their character. We need only refer to
+Labaume's book on the expedition to Russia, to Miot's work on the
+Egyptian campaigns, or to Rocca's history of the war in Spain, for ample
+proofs of the correctness of this observation. Whether this peculiarity
+is to be ascribed chiefly to their national character, or to the nature
+of the services in which they have been engaged, it is not very easy to
+decide.
+
+The dishonourable conduct of the French officers, particularly of the
+superior officers, in the present year, is much more easily explained
+than excused. They had risen from the ranks--they had been engaged all
+their lives in active and iniquitous services--they had been accustomed
+to look to success as the best criterion of merit, and to regard
+attachment to their leaders and their colours, as the only duties of
+soldiers;--they had never thought seriously on morality or
+religion--they had been applauded by their countrymen and
+fellow-soldiers, for actions in direct violation of both--and they had
+been taught to consider that applause as their highest honour and
+legitimate reward. Under these circumstances, it is easy to see, that
+they could have little information with regard to the true interests of
+France, and that they would regard the most sacred engagements as
+binding only in so far as general opinion would reprobate the violation
+of them; and when a strong party shewed itself, in the nation as well as
+the army, ready to support them and to extol their conduct in rising
+against the government, that their oaths would have no influence to
+restrain them. It is to be considered, likewise, that a large proportion
+of the officers had been originally republicans. They had been engaged
+in long and active military service, and been elated with military
+glory; in the multiplicity of their duties, and the intoxication of
+their success as soldiers, they had ceased to be citizens; but during
+the repose that succeeded the establishment of the Bourbons, when they
+again found themselves in the midst of their countrymen, their original
+political feelings and prejudices returned, embittered and exasperated
+by the influence of their military habits, and the remembrance of their
+military disgraces. We have ourselves conversed with several officers,
+who were strongly attached to Napoleon, but whose political views were
+decidedly republican; and have heard it stated, that the officers of
+artillery and engineers are supposed to be particularly democratic in
+their principles.
+
+It is much easier to account for the conduct of the French army since
+the dethronement of Napoleon, than to point out any means by which that
+conduct could have been altered. It was stated to us at Paris, that the
+number of military officers to be provided for by government, was
+upwards of 60,000. These would certainly comprise a very large
+proportion of the talents and enterprise of the French nation. The
+number of them that can have been sincerely devoted to the Bourbons, or
+that can have been otherwise disposed of since that time, cannot be
+great; nor do we see by what means it will be possible to reconcile the
+majority of this very important class of men, to a government which has
+twice owed its elevation to the discomfiture and humiliation of the
+French arms.
+
+It may be easily conceived, that in an army, the officers of which have,
+for the most part, risen from the ranks, the principles of strict
+military subordination cannot be enforced with the same punctilious
+rigour as in services where a marked distinction is constantly kept up
+between officers and soldiers. There is a more gradual transition from
+the highest to the lowest situations of the French army--a more
+complete amalgamation of the whole mass, than is consistent with the
+views of other governments in the maintenance of their standing armies.
+
+It is true, that a change has taken place in the composition of the
+French army, in this respect, under the imperial government. A number of
+military schools were established and encouraged in different parts of
+the country, and a great number of young men were sent to these by their
+parents, under the understanding, that after being educated in them they
+should become officers at once, without passing through the inferior
+steps, to which they would otherwise have been devoted by the
+conscription. A great number of officers, therefore, have of late years
+been appointed from these schools to the army, who have never served in
+the ranks; but the manners and habits which they acquire at the schools
+are, we should conceive, very little superior to what they might have
+learnt from the private soldiers, who would otherwise have been their
+associates. A comparison of the appearance and manner of the pupils of
+the Ecole Militaire, with those of the young men at the English military
+colleges, would shew, as strongly as any other parallel that could be
+drawn, the difference in respectability and gentlemanlike feeling
+between the English and French officers.
+
+There is so little of uniformity in dress, of regard to external
+appearance, or of shew of subordination, and inferiority to their
+officers, in the French soldiers, that a stranger would be apt to
+consider them as deficient in discipline. The fact is, that they know
+perfectly, from being continually engaged in active service, what are
+the essentials of military discipline, and that they are quite careless
+of all superfluous forms. Whatever regulations are necessary, in any
+particular circumstances, are strictly enforced; and the men submit to
+them, not from any principle of slavish subjection to their officers,
+but rather from deference to their superior intelligence and
+information, and from a regard to the good of the service.
+
+The French army may, in fact, be said to have little of the feelings
+which are truly military. The officers have not the strong feeling of
+humanity, and the high and just sense of honour, not merely as members
+of the army, but as individuals; the soldiers have not the habit of
+implicit obedience and attachment to their peculiar duties; and the
+whole have not the lively sense of responsibility to their country, and
+dependence on their sovereign, which are probably essential to the
+existence of an army which shall not be dangerous, even to the state
+that maintains it. The French army submitted implicitly to Napoleon,
+because he was their general; but we should doubt if they ever
+considered themselves, even under his dominion, as the _servants of
+France_. They appear, at present, at least, to think themselves an
+independent body, who have a right to act according to their own
+judgment, and are accountable to nobody for their actions. In this idea
+of their own importance they were, of course, encouraged by Napoleon,
+who, on his return from Elba, spoke of the injuries done by the Bourbons
+to the _army and people_, and assigned the former the most honourable
+place in his Champ de Mai. And it will appear by no means surprising,
+that they should have acquired these sentiments, when we consider the
+importance which has been attached to their exploits by their
+countrymen, the encouragement to which they have been accustomed, the
+preference to all other classes of men which was shewn them by the late
+government, and the nature of the services in which they have been
+engaged, and for which they have been rewarded; circumstances fitted to
+assimilate them, in reality as well as appearance, rather to an immense
+band of freebooters, having no principle but union among themselves,
+and submission to their chiefs, than to an established and responsible
+standing army.
+
+This observation applies to the feelings and principles of the soldiers
+taken as a body, not to their individual habits; for, excepting in the
+case of the detachment of the imperial guard, quartered at Fontainbleau,
+we never understood that the French soldiers in time of peace, at least
+among their own countrymen, were accused of outrage or rapine.
+
+There is considerable variety in the personal appearance of the French
+soldiers. The infantry are generally little men, much inferior to the
+Russians and Prussians in size and weight; but as they are almost all
+young, they appear equally well fitted for bearing fatigues, and they
+have an activity in their gait and demeanour, which accords well with
+their general character. In travelling through the country, we could
+almost always tell a French soldier from one of the allies at a
+distance, by the spring of his step. They have another excellent
+quality, that of being easily fed. Nothing appeared to excite more
+astonishment or indignation in France, than the quantity of food
+consumed by the allied troops. We found at Paris, that the Russian
+convalescents, occupying the hospitals which had formerly been
+appropriated to French troops, actually eat three times the rations
+which the French had been allowed. Frenchmen of the middling and higher
+ranks appear to have generally very keen appetites, and often surprise
+Englishmen by the magnitude and variety of their meals; but the
+peasantry and lower orders are accustomed to much poorer fare than the
+corresponding classes, at least in the southern part of our island, and
+the ordinary diet of the French soldiers is inferior to that of the
+English. In garrison, they are never allowed animal food, at least when
+in their own country; and the better living to which they are accustomed
+in foreign countries, and on active service, is a stronger
+recommendation of war to these volatile and unreflecting spirits, than
+it might at first be thought.
+
+The French cavalry are almost universally fine men, much superior to the
+infantry in appearance. The horses of the _chasseurs a cheval_, and
+hussars, are small, but active and hardy; and even those of the
+cuirassiers have not the weight or beauty of the English heavy dragoons,
+though we have understood that they bear the fatigues and privations,
+incident to long campaigns, much better.
+
+The imperial guard was composed, like the Russian guard, of picked men,
+who had already served a certain length of time, and the pay being
+higher than of the regiments of the line, and great pains being
+uniformly taken to preserve them as much as possible, from the hardships
+and dangers to which the other troops were exposed, and to reserve them
+for great emergencies, it was at once an honour and a reward to belong
+to them. We saw a review of the elite of the imperial guard on the 8th
+of May 1814, in presence of the King of France; the regiments of
+cavalry, of which a great number passed, were very weak in numbers, but
+the men were uncommonly fine, and the horses strong and active. The
+finest regiment of infantry of the old guard, with some pieces of
+cannon, did not defile before the King, but passed out of the Cour de
+Carousel by a back way, on account, as we understood, of its having
+shewn strong symptoms of disgust on the entrance of the King into Paris.
+That regiment, as well as all the rest of the infantry of the old guard,
+then called the Grenadiers Francais, whom we had ever occasion to see,
+was composed of the finest men, not merely in point of strength, but of
+activity and apparent intelligence. The few pieces of artillery of the
+guard that we saw were in very bad condition, and their equipment
+particularly mean; but this branch of the service had not then had time
+to repair the losses it had sustained in the campaign.
+
+The cavalry of the guard appeared to have been the most fashionable
+service under Napoleon. There were cuirassiers, heavy and light
+dragoons, chasseurs, hussars, grenadiers a cheval, and lancers of the
+guard, all of whom had different and splendid uniforms, and presented an
+uncommonly varied and magnificent appearance when reviewed together.
+Their magnificence and variety was evidently intended to gratify the
+taste of the French people for splendid shows, and to attract young men
+of fortune and expensive habits.
+
+The imperial guard had much more of the air and manner, as well as
+dress, of regular soldiers, than any other part of the French army;
+indeed it is impossible to conceive a more martial or imposing figure
+than that of one of the old grenadiers, (commonly called the _vieux
+moustaches_,) in his striking and appropriate costume, armed with his
+musket and sword, the cross of the legion of honour on his breast, his
+rough and weather-beaten countenance bearing the impression of the sun
+of Italy and the snows of Russia, while his keen and restless eye
+shows, more expressively than words, that he is still "ready, aye
+ready, for the field."
+
+We thought we could discern in the countenances of the troops of
+different nations, whom we saw reviewed about this time, the traces of
+the difference of national character. The general expression of the
+Russians, we thought, was that of stern obstinate determination; of the
+Prussians, warm enthusiastic gallantry; of the French, fierce and
+indignant impetuosity. This may have been fancy, but all who have seen
+the troops of these different nations, will allow a very striking
+difference of expression of countenance, as well as of features.
+
+* * *
+
+No measure was omitted by Napoleon to secure, the services, in the army,
+of all who could be of any use in it. The organization of the garde
+d'honneur was intended to include as large a number as possible of the
+young men, whose circumstances had enabled them to avoid the
+conscription. No act of the Imperial Government seemed to have given
+more general offence in France than the formation of this corps, the
+number of which was stated to have amounted at one time to 10,000. They
+were, in the first instance, invited to volunteer, under the assurance
+that they were to be employed as a guard for Maria Louisa, and under no
+circumstances to be sent across the Rhine. A maximum and minimum number
+were fixed for each _arrondissement_, some number between which was to
+be made up by voluntary enrolments; but when any deficiency was
+discovered, as for example in Holland, where the young men were very
+little disposed to voluntary service in the French army, a balloting
+immediately took place, and a number greater than the maximum was
+compelled to come forward. Exemption from this service was impossible;
+immense sums were offered and refused. They were all mounted, armed, and
+clothed at their own expense; those who did not chuse to march, were
+sent off under an escort of gens-d'armes; and all were conducted to the
+fortresses on the Rhine, were they were regularly drilled. Some of them
+were induced to volunteer for extended service, by a promise, that after
+serving one campaign, they should be made officers; and in the course of
+the campaign of 1813, _all_ of them were brought up to join the army;
+and these young men, taken only a few weeks before from their families,
+where many of them had been accustomed to every luxury and indulgence,
+were compelled to go through all the duties and fatigues of common
+hussars. Some regiments of them, which were very early brought into
+action, having misconducted themselves, were immediately disbanded;
+their horses, arms, and uniforms, were taken from them for the use of
+the other troops, and they were dismissed, to find the best of their way
+to their homes. Those who remained were distributed among the different
+corps of cavalry, and suffered very severely in the campaign in France.
+We spoke to some of them at Paris, who said they had bivouacked, at one
+period of the campaign, _on snow_, fourteen nights successively, and
+described to us the action at Rheims, one of the last that was fought,
+where half of their regiment were left on the field. These men
+complained loudly of the treacherous conduct of Napoleon to them and
+their brethren of the same corps; yet they expressed their willingness
+to undergo all their sufferings again, if they could thereby transfer
+the date of the peace to the other side of the Rhine.
+
+The effect of this measure on the middling and higher ranks was not more
+oppressive than that of the conscription on the lower ranks, and even on
+persons in tolerably good circumstances; for we have heard of L.400
+Sterling, being twice paid to rescue an individual, whom a third
+conscription had at length torn from his family. The impression produced
+in France, however, by either of these measures, cannot be judged of
+from a comparison with the feelings so often manifested in this country,
+under circumstances of less aggravated affliction. The same careless,
+unthinking, constitutional cheerfulness, which is so commendable in
+those Frenchmen whose sufferings are all personal, displays itself in a
+darker point of view, when they are called on to sympathise with the
+sufferings of their friends. It is a disposition, allied indeed to
+magnanimity on the one hand, but to selfishness on the other. The
+sufferings of the French on such an occasion as the loss of a near
+relation, may be acute; but they are of very short duration. In Paris,
+mourning is at present hardly ever worn. At the time when we were there,
+although a bloody campaign had only recently been concluded, we did not
+see above five or six persons in mourning, and even these were not
+certainly French. We understood it to be a principle all over France,
+never to wear mourning for a son; but whether this was adopted in
+compliance with the wishes of Napoleon, as was stated by some, or was
+general before his time, as others maintained, we were not sufficiently
+informed.
+
+* * *
+
+It may be a question, whether the real, as well as professed motive of
+the policy of Napoleon, while he directed the affairs of France, was
+some ill-conceived and absurd idea of the superior happiness and
+prosperity which France might enjoy, if placed indisputably at the head
+of the civilized world, and especially if elevated above the rivalship
+of England; but if the good of France was really his end, it is quite
+certain that it engaged very little of his attention, and that he
+occupied himself almost exclusively with regard to the means which he
+held to be necessary to its attainment. The causes of the wars in which
+he engaged were of little importance to him; but the immediate object of
+all of them was the glory and aggrandizement of France; and to this
+object his whole soul was devoted, and all the energies of the state
+were directed.
+
+In a general view, the imperial government may be said to have rested on
+the following foundations.
+
+In the first place, it rested on the principle which was universally
+acted on, of giving active employment, and animating encouragement, to
+all men of talents or enterprise--to all whose friendship might be
+useful, or whose enmity might be dangerous. The conscription carried off
+the flower of the youthful population; parents were encouraged to send
+their children; if they shewed any superior abilities, to the military
+schools, whence they were rapidly promoted in the army. The formation of
+the garde d'honneur effectually prevented all danger from a numerous
+class of men, whose circumstances might have enabled them to exert
+themselves in opposing public measures. In the civil administration of
+the country, it was the system of Napoleon, from the beginning of his
+career, to give employment to all who might be dangerous, if their
+services were not secured. The prefects of towns and _arrondissements_,
+were generally men of intelligence and information regarding the
+characters of the inhabitants; and the persons recommended by them to
+the immense number of situations in the police, in the collection of
+taxes, &c. were always men of activity, enterprise, and ability: Birth,
+education, and moral character, were altogether disregarded, and
+religious principle was rather considered a fault than a recommendation.
+
+The consequence was, that the young, the bold, the active, the
+enterprising, the independent, were either attached to the imperial
+government, or at least prevented from exerting themselves in opposition
+to it; while those whom family cares, or laborious occupations, or
+habits of indolence, or want of energy of mind, rendered unfit for
+resistance to any government, were the only people whose interest it
+was to resist that of Napoleon.
+
+In the next place, while much was done by these means to secure the
+support of the most important part of the nation to the imperial
+government, the most effectual precautions were taken to prevent danger
+to it, from those whom either principle might lead, or injuries might
+provoke to disaffection. The police was everywhere so powerful, and the
+system of espionage so universally extended, that it was almost
+impossible for different individuals to combine against the government.
+Without including the hosts of douaniers, who were under the orders of
+the collectors of taxes, the gens d'armerie, who were at the disposal of
+the police, and had no other duties to perform, amounted to above 10,000
+men, cavalry and infantry, all completely armed and equipped. As soon,
+therefore, as any individual excited suspicion, there was no difficulty
+as to his apprehension. The number of police officers was very great,
+and they were all low born, clever, unprincipled men, perfectly fitted
+for their situations. The extent and accuracy of the information
+possessed by them was almost incredible. Indeed, we regard the system of
+espionage, by which this information was procured, as the most complete
+and damning proof of the general selfishness and immorality of the
+French people, of which we have received any account. It was not merely
+that a number of persons were employed by the police as spies; but that
+no man could put any confidence even in his best friends and nearest
+relations. The very essence of the system was the destruction of all
+confidence between man and man; and its success was such, that no man
+could venture to express any sentiments hostile to the government, even
+in the retirement of his own family circle. That sacred sanctuary was
+every where invaded, not by the strong hand of power, but by the secret
+machinations of bribery and intrigue.
+
+We were particularly informed, with respect to the establishment of the
+police in Amsterdam, where the sentiments of the people being known to
+be averse to French dominion, it was of course made stronger than in
+less suspicious parts of the country. Within a week after the annexation
+of Holland to France, the police was in full force, and the spies every
+where in motion. No servant was allowed to engage himself who had not a
+certificate from the police, implying his being a spy on his master. At
+the _tables d'hote_, persons were placed to encourage seditious
+conversation, and those who expressed themselves strongly, were soon
+after seized and committed to prison. No person could leave Amsterdam,
+even to go three miles into the country, without a passport from the
+police, which was granted only to whom they pleased. When a party went
+out on such an excursion, they were sure to be met by some of the gens
+d'armerie, who already knew their names and destination, and who fixed
+the time of their return. From the decisions of the police there was no
+appeal; and those who were imprisoned by them, (as so many of the
+inhabitants of Amsterdam were, that it ceased to be any reproach,) had
+no method of bringing on a trial, or even of ascertaining the crimes of
+which they were accused. Frequently individuals were transported from
+one part of the country to another, without any reason being assigned,
+and set down among strangers, to make their bread as they best could,
+under the inspection of the police, who instantly arrested them on their
+attempting to escape. This system was probably more strictly enforced in
+Holland than over the greater part of France, but its most essential
+parts were every where the same, and the information, with respect to
+the private characters and sentiments of individuals, was certainly
+more easily obtained in France than in Holland.
+
+Such, according to the information of the most intelligent and best
+informed persons with whom we had an opportunity of conversing, were the
+principal means by which the power of Napoleon was maintained, and his
+authority enforced. But it must be owned that he did more than
+this,--that during the greater part of his reign, he not only commanded
+the obedience, but obtained the admiration and esteem of the majority of
+his subjects.
+
+In looking for the causes of this, we shall in vain attempt to discover
+them in real benefits conferred on France by Napoleon. It is true, that
+agriculture made some progress during his reign, but this was decidedly
+owing to the transference of the landed property from nobles and
+churchmen, to persons really interested in the cultivation of the soil,
+which had taken place before his time, and not to the empty and
+ostentatious patronage which he bestowed on it; the best proof of which
+is, that the main improvement that has taken place has not been, as
+already observed, in the principles or practice of agriculture, but in
+the quantity of land under tillage. It is true also, that certain
+manufactures have been encouraged by the exclusion of the English
+goods; but this partial increase of wealth was certainly not worth the
+expense of a year's war, and was heavily counterbalanced by the distress
+occasioned by his tyrannical decrees in the commercial towns of France,
+and of the countries which were subjected to her control.
+
+As a single instance of this distress, we may just notice the situation
+of the city of Amsterdam during the time that Holland was incorporated
+with France. Out of 200,000 inhabitants of that city, more than one
+half, during the whole of that time, were absolutely deprived of the
+means of subsistence, and lived merely on the charity of the remainder,
+who were, for the most part, unable to engage in any profitable
+business, all foreign commerce being at an end, and supported themselves
+therefore on the capital which they had previously acquired; and, lest
+that capital should escape, two-thirds of the national debt of Holland
+were struck off by a single decree of Napoleon. The population of the
+town fell off about 20,000 during the time of its connection with
+France; the taxes, while the two countries were incorporated, were
+enormous; the income-tax, which was independent of the droits reunis, or
+assessed taxes, having been stated to us at one-fifth of every man's
+income. It was during the pressure of these burdens that the tremendous
+system of police which we have described was enforced; and to add to the
+miseries of the unfortunate inhabitants of this and the other commercial
+towns of Holland, they were not allowed to manifest their sufferings.
+Every man who possessed or inhabited a house was compelled to keep it in
+perfect repair; so that even at the time of their liberation, these
+towns bore no external mark of poverty or decay. The consequence of that
+decree, however, had been, that persons possessing houses at first
+lowered their rents, then asked no rents at all; happy to get them off
+their hands, and throw on the tenants the burden of paying taxes for
+them and keeping them in repair; and lastly, in many instances, offered
+sums of money to bribe others to live in their houses, or even accept
+the property of them.
+
+The taxes of France, under Napoleon, it would have been supposed, were
+alone sufficient to exasperate the people against them. They were
+oppressive, not merely from their amount, but especially from the
+arbitrary power which was granted to the prefects of towns and
+_arrondissements_, and their agents, in collecting them. A certain sum
+was directed to be levied in each district, and the apportioning of this
+burden on the different inhabitants was left almost entirely to the
+discretion of these officers.
+
+It is quite obvious, therefore, as we already hinted; that the
+popularity of Napoleon in France, during at least the greater part of
+his reign; can be traced to no other source than the national vanity of
+the French. As they are more fond of shew than of comfort in private
+life, so their public affections are more easily won by gaudy
+decorations than by substantial benefits. Napoleon gave them enough of
+the former; they had victories abroad and _spectacles_ at home--their
+capital was embellished--their country was aggrandised--their glory was
+exalted; and if he had continued successful, France would still have
+continued to applaud and admire him, while she had sons to swell her
+armies, and daughters to drudge in her fields.
+
+As it was not Napoleon who made the French a military and ambitious
+people, so it is not his fall alone that can secure the world against
+the effects of their military and ambitious spirit. It is not merely the
+removal of him who has so long guided it, but the extinction of the
+spirit itself that is necessary. The effect of the late events on the
+active part of the population of France, cannot be accurately judged of
+in the present moment of irritation and disorder; but whatever
+government that country may ultimately assume, it may surely be hoped
+that their experience of unsuccessful and calamitous war has been
+sufficient to incline them to peace; that they will learn to measure
+their national glory by a better standard than mere victory or noise;
+that they will reflect on the true objects, both of political and
+military institutions, and acknowledge the happiness of the people they
+govern to be the supreme law of kings, and the blessings of the country
+they serve to be the best reward of soldiers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+JOURNEY TO FLANDERS.
+
+
+When we left Paris, we took the road to Soissons and Laon, with a view
+to see the seat of war during the previous campaign, and examine the
+interesting country of Flanders. After passing the village of La
+Villette, and the heights of Belleville, the country becomes flat and
+uninteresting, and is distinguished by those features which characterise
+almost all the level agricultural districts of France. The road, which
+is of great breadth, and paved in the centre, runs through a continued
+plain, in which, as far as the eye can reach, nothing is to be discerned
+but a vast expanse of corn fields, varied at intervals by fallows, and
+small tracts of lucerne and sainfoin. No inclosures are to be met with;
+few woods are seen to vary the uniformity of the view; and the level
+surface of the ground is only broken at intervals by the long rows of
+fruit-trees, which intersect the country in different directions, or the
+tall avenues of elms between which the _chaussees_ are placed.
+
+These elm trees would give a magnificent appearance to the roads, both
+from their age and the immense length during which they fringe its
+sides, were it not that they are uniformly clipt to the very top, for
+firewood, by the peasantry, and that all their natural beauty is in
+consequence destroyed. The elm, indeed, pushes out its shoots to replace
+the branches which have been destroyed, and fringes the lofty stem with
+a cluster of foliage; but as soon as these young branches have become
+large, they too are in their turn sacrificed to the same purpose. When
+seen from a distance, accordingly, these trees resemble tall May-poles
+with tufts at their tops, and are hardly to be distinguished from the
+Lombardy poplars, which, in many parts of the country, line the sides of
+the principal roads.
+
+One most remarkable circumstance in the agricultural districts of
+France, is here to be seen in its full extent. The people do not dwell
+in detached cottages, placed in the centre of their farms or their
+properties, as in all parts of England; they live together in aged
+villages or boroughs, often at the distance of two or three miles from
+the place of their labour, and wholly separated from the farms which
+they are employed in cultivating. It is no uncommon thing accordingly,
+to see a farmer leaving a little town in the morning with his ploughs
+and horses, to go to his piece of ground, which lies many miles from the
+place of his residence.
+
+This circumstance, which exists more or less in every part of France, is
+characteristic of the state in which the people were placed in those
+remote periods, when their habits of life were originally formed. It
+indicates that popular degradation and public insecurity, when the poor
+were compelled to unite themselves in villages or towns for protection
+from the banditti, whom the government was unable to restrain, or from
+the more desolating oppression of feudal power. In every country of
+Europe, in which the feudal tyranny long subsisted; in Spain, in France,
+in Poland, and in Hungary, this custom has prevailed to a certain
+extent, and the remains of it are still to be seen in the remoter parts
+of Scotland. It is in countries alone whose freedom has long subsisted;
+in Switzerland, in Flanders, and in England, that no traces of its
+effects are to be discerned in the manners and the condition of the
+peasantry; that the enjoyment of individual security has enabled the
+poor to spread themselves in fearless confidence over the country; and
+that the traveller, in admiring the union of natural beauty with general
+prosperity, which the appearance of the country exhibits, blesses that
+government, by the influence of whose equal laws that delightful union
+has been effected.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Paris, and in those situations which are
+favourable for vineyard or garden cultivation, this circumstance gives a
+very singular aspect to the face of the country. As far as the eye can
+reach, the sloping banks, or rising swells, are cultivated with the
+utmost care, and intersected by little paths, which wind through the
+gardens, or among the vineyards, in the most beautiful manner; yet no
+traces of human habitation are to be discerned, by whose labour, or for
+whose use, this admirable cultivation has been conducted. The labourers,
+or proprietors of these gardens, dwell at the distance of miles, in
+antiquated villages, which resemble the old boroughs which are now
+wearing out in the improved parts of Scotland. In the greater part of
+France, the people dwell in this manner, in crowded villages, while the
+open country, every where cultivated, is but seldom inhabited. The
+superiority, accordingly, in the beauty of those districts, where the
+cottages are sprinkled over the country, and surrounded by fruit-trees,
+is greater than can well be imagined: and it is owing to this
+circumstance that Picardy, Artois, and Normandy, exhibit so much more
+pleasing an appearance, than most of the other provinces of France.
+
+In the district between Paris and Soissons, as in almost every other
+part of the country, the land is now in the hands of the peasantry, who
+became proprietors of it during the struggles of the revolution. We had
+every where occasion to observe the extreme industry with which the
+people conduct their cultivation, and perceived numerous instances of
+the truth of Mr Young's observation, "that there is no such instigator
+to severe and incessant labour, as the minute subdivision of landed
+property." But though their industry was uniformly in the highest degree
+laudable, yet we could not help deploring the ignorant and unskilful
+manner in which this industry is directed. The cultivation is still
+carried on after the miserable rotation which so justly excited the
+indignation of Mr Young previous to the commencement of the revolution.
+Wheat, barley or oats, sainfoin, lucerne or clover, and fallow, form
+the universal rotation. The green crops are uniformly cut, and carried
+into the house for the cattle; as there are no inclosures, there is no
+such thing as pasturage in the fields; and, except once on the banks of
+the Oise, we never saw cattle pasturing in those parts of France. The
+small quantity of lucerne and sainfoin, moreover, shews that there are
+but few herds in this part of France, and that meat, butter, or cheese,
+form but a small part of the food of the peasantry. Normandy, in fact,
+is the only pasture district of France, and the produce of the dairy
+there is principally intended for the markets of Paris.
+
+The soil is apparently excellent the whole way, composed of a loam in
+some places, mixed with clay and sand, and extremely easily worked.
+Miserable fallows are often seen, on which the sheep pick up a wretched
+subsistence--their lean sides and meagre limbs exhibit the effects of
+the scanty food which they are able to obtain. The ploughing to us
+appeared excellent; but we were unable to determine whether this was to
+be imputed to the skilfulness of the labourer, or the light friable
+nature of the soil.
+
+The property of the peasantry is not surrounded by any enclosures, nor
+are there any visible marks whereby their separate boundaries could be
+determined by the eye of a stranger. The plain exhibits one unbroken
+surface of corn or vineyards, and appears as if it all formed a part of
+one boundless property. The vast expanse, however, is in fact subdivided
+into an infinite number of small estates, the proprietors of which dwell
+in the aged boroughs through which the road occasionally passes, and the
+extremities of which are marked by great stones fixed on their ends,
+which are concealed from a passenger by the luxuriant corn in which they
+are enveloped. This description applies to the grain districts in almost
+every part of France.
+
+Although the condition of the peasantry has been greatly ameliorated, in
+consequence of the division of landed property since the revolution, yet
+their increased wealth has not yet had any influence on the state of
+their habitations, or the general comfort of their dwellings. This rises
+from the nature of the contributions to which they were subjected during
+the despotic governments which succeeded the first years of the
+revolution. These contributions were levied by the governors of
+districts in the most arbitrary manner. The arrondissement was assessed
+at a certain sum by the government, or a certain contribution for the
+support of the war was imposed; and the sum was proportioned out among
+the different inhabitants, according to the discretion of the collector.
+Any appearance of comfort, accordingly, among the peasantry, was
+immediately followed by an increased contribution, and heavier taxes;
+and hence the people never ventured to make any display of their
+increased wealth in their dwellings, or in any article of their
+expenditure, which might attract, the notice of the collectors of the
+imperial revenue. The burdens to which they were subjected, moreover,
+especially during the last years of the war, were extremely severe,
+arising both from the enormous sums requisite to save their sons from
+the conscription, and the heavy unequal contributions to which they were
+subjected.
+
+From these causes, the division of landed property has not yet produced
+that striking amelioration in the habits and present comfort of the
+peasantry, which generally attend this important measure; and their
+wealth is rather hoarded up, after the eastern custom, for future,
+emergencies or spent in the support of an early marriage; and never
+lavished in the fearless enjoyment of present opulence.
+
+In some respects, however, their appearance evidently bears the mark of
+the improvement in their situation. Their dress is upon the whole neat
+and comfortable, covered in general by a species of smock frock of a
+light blue colour, and exhibiting none of that miserable appearance
+which Mr Young described as characterising the labouring classes during
+his time. They evidently had the aspect of being well fed, and both in
+their figures and dress, afforded a striking contrast to the wretched
+and decrepid inhabitants of the towns, in whom the real poverty of the
+people, under the old regime, was still perceptible. In some of these
+towns, the appearance of the beggars, their extraordinary figures, and
+tattered dress, exhibited a spectacle which would have been
+inconceivably ludicrous, were it not for the melancholy ideas of abject
+poverty which it necessarily conveyed.
+
+About twenty miles from Soissons, the road passes through the
+magnificent forest of Villars Coterets, which, in the luxuriance and
+extent of its woods, rivals the forest of Fontainbleau. The place on
+which it stands is varied by rising grounds, and the distance exhibits
+beautiful vistas of forest scenery and gentle swells, adorned by rich
+and varied foliage. It wants, however, those grand and striking
+features, that mixture of rock and wood, of forest gloom and savage
+scenery, which give so unrivalled a charm to the forest of
+Fontainbleau.
+
+From Villars Coterets, the road lies over a high plateau, covered with
+grain, and exhibiting more than ordinary barrenness and desolation.
+After passing over this dreary track, you arrive at the edge of a steep
+declivity, which shelves down to the valley in which the Aisne wanders.
+The appearance of this valley is extremely beautiful. It is sheltered by
+high ridges, or sloping hills, covered with vineyards, orchards, and
+luxuriant woods: the little plain is studded with villas and neat
+cottages, embosomed in trees, or surrounded by green meadows, in which
+the winding course of the Aisne can at intervals be discerned. When we
+reached this spot, the sun had newly risen; his level rays illuminated
+the white cottages with which the valley is sprinkled, or glittered on
+the stream which winded through its plain; while the Gothic towers of
+Soissons threw a long shadow over the green fields which surrounded its
+walls. It reminded us of those lines in Thomson, in which the effect of
+the morning light is so beautifully described:
+
+      "Lo, now apparent all,
+    Aslant the dew-bright earth and coloured air,
+    He looks in boundless majesty abroad,
+    And sheds the shining day, that burnished plays
+    On rocks, and hills, and towers, and wandering streams,
+    High gleaming from afar."
+
+The descent to Soissons is through a declivity adorned by thriving
+gardens and neat cottages, detached from each other, which afforded a
+pleasing contrast to the solitary, uninhabited, though cultivated plains
+through which our route had previously lain. The Fauxbourgs of the town
+were wholly in ruins, having been totally destroyed in the three
+assaults which they had sustained during the previous campaign. The town
+itself is small, surrounded by decayed fortifications, and containing
+nothing of note, except the Gothic spires, which bear testimony to its
+antiquity.
+
+On leaving Soissons on the road to Laon, you go for two miles through
+the level plain in which the town is situated; after which you begin to
+ascend the steep ridge by which its eastern boundary is formed. It was
+on the summit of this ridge that Marshal Blucher's army was drawn up,
+80,000 strong, at the time when a detachment of his troops, under Count
+Langeron, was defending Soissons against the French army. Immediately
+below this position, there is placed a small village, which bore the
+marks of desperate fighting; all the houses were unroofed or shattered
+in every part by musket balls; and many seemed to have been burnt during
+the struggles of which it was formerly the theatre. There is an old
+castle a little higher up the ascent, which was garrisoned by the allied
+troops; in the neighbourhood of which, we perceived numerous traces of
+the immense bivouacs which had been made round its walls; particularly
+the bodies of horses and oxen, which the Russians had left on the
+ground, and which the peasants had taken no pains to remove.
+
+From thence the road runs over a high level plateau, covered with
+miserable corn, or worse fallows, and having an aspect of sterility very
+different from what we were accustomed to in the rich provinces of
+France. In the midst of this dreary country, we beheld with delight
+several deep ravines, formed by streams which fall into the Aisne,
+sheltered from the chilling blasts that sweep along the high plains by
+which they are surrounded, the steep sides of which were clothed with
+luxuriant woods, and in the bottom of which are placed many little farms
+and cottages, which exhibited a perfect picture of rural beauty. Even
+here, however, the terrible effects of war were clearly visible; these
+sequestered spots had been ravaged by the hostile armies; and the ruined
+walls of the peasants dwellings presented a melancholy spectacle in the
+midst of the profusion of beauty with which they were surrounded.
+
+Half way between Soissons and Laon, is placed a solitary inn, at which
+Bonaparte stopt six hours, after the disastrous termination of the
+battle of Laon. The people informed us, that during this time, he was in
+a state of great agitation, wrote many different orders, which he
+destroyed as fast as they were done, and covered the floor with the
+fragments of his writing. Many Cossacks and Bashkirs had been quartered
+in this inn; the people, as usual, would not allow them any good
+qualities, but often repeated, with evident chagrin--"Ils mangent comme
+des diables; ils ont mange tous les poulets."
+
+The features of the country continue with little variety, till you begin
+to descend from the high plateau, over which the road has passed into
+the wooded valley, in the centre of which the hill and town of Laon are
+placed. The dreary aspect of this plateau, which, though cultivated in
+every part, exhibited few traces of human habitation, was enlivened
+occasionally by herds of pigs, of a lean and meagre breed, (followed by
+shepherds of the most grotesque appearance,) wandering over the bare
+fallows, and seemingly reduced to the necessity of feeding on their
+mother earth.
+
+At the distance of six miles from Laon, the descent begins to the plain
+below, down the side of a deep ravine, beautifully clothed with woods
+and vineyards. On the other side of this ravine lies the plateau on
+which the battle of Craon was fought, whose level desolate surface
+seemed a fit theatre for the struggle that was there maintained. At the
+bottom of the ravine the road passes a long line of villages, surrounded
+with wood and gardens, which had been wholly ruined by the operations of
+the armies; and among the neighbouring woods we were shewn numerous
+graves both of French and Russian soldiers.
+
+The approach to Laon lies through a great morass, covered in different
+places with low brushwood, and intersected only by the narrow chaussee
+on which the road is laid. The appearance of the town is very striking;
+standing on a hill in the centre of a plain of 10 or 12 miles in
+diameter, bounded on all sides by steep and wooded ridges. It is
+surrounded by an old wall, and some decayed towers, and is adorned by
+some fine Gothic spires, whose apparent magnitude is much increased by
+the elevated station on which they are placed.
+
+In crossing this chaussee, we were immediately struck with the
+extraordinary policy of Bonaparte, in attacking the Russian army posted
+on the heights of Laon, where his only retreat was by the narrow road
+we were traversing, which for several miles, ran through a morass,
+impassible for carriages or artillery. This appeared the more wonderful,
+as the army he was attacking was more numerous than his own, composed of
+admirable troops, and posted in a position where little hopes of success
+could be entertained. It was an error of the same kind as he committed
+at Leipsic, when he gave battle to the allied armies with a single
+bridge and a long defile in his rear. It is laid down as one of the
+first maxims of war, by Frederic the Great, "never to fight an enemy
+with a bridge or defile in your rear: as if you are defeated, the ruin
+of the army must ensue in the confusion which the narrowness of the
+retreat creates." We cannot suppose so great a general as Bonaparte to
+have been ignorant of so established a principle, or a rule which common
+sense appears so obviously to dictate; it is more probable, that in the
+confidence which the long habit of success had occasioned, he never
+contemplated the possibility of a defeat, nor took any measures whatever
+for ensuring the safety of his army in the event of a retreat. Be this
+as it may, it is certain that he fought at Laon with a morass, crossed
+by a single chaussee, in his rear, and that if he had been totally
+defeated, instead of being repulsed in the action which then took
+place, his army must have been irretrievably ruined, in the narrow line
+over which their retreat was of necessity conducted.
+
+At the foot of the hill of Laon is placed a small village named Semilly,
+in which a desperate conflict had evidently been maintained. The trees
+were riddled with the cannon-shot; the walls were pierced for the fire
+of infantry, and the houses all in ruins, from the showers of balls to
+which they had been exposed. The steep declivity of the hill itself was
+covered with gardens and vineyards, in which the allied army had been
+posted during the continuance of the conflict; but though three months
+had not elapsed since the period when they were filled with hostile
+troops, no traces of desolation were to be seen, nor any thing which
+could indicate the occurrence of any extraordinary events. The vines
+grew in the utmost luxuriance on the spot where columns of infantry had
+so recently stood, and the garden cultivation appeared in all its
+neatness, on the very ground which had been lately traversed by all the
+apparatus of modern warfare. It would have been impossible for any one
+to have conceived, that the destruction they occasioned could so soon
+have been repaired; or that the powers of Nature, in that genial
+climate, could so rapidly have effaced all traces of the desolation
+which marked the track of human ambition.
+
+The town of Laon itself contains little worthy of note; but the view
+from its ramparts, though not extensive, was one of the most pleasing
+which we had seen in France. The little plain with which the town is
+surrounded, is varied with woods, corn fields, and vineyards; the view
+is closed on every side by a ridge of hills, which form a circular
+boundary round its farthest extremity, while the foreground is finely
+marked by the decaying towers of the fortress, or the dark foliage which
+shades its ramparts.
+
+We walked over the field of battle with a degree of interest, which
+nothing but the memorable operations of which it had formerly been the
+theatre, could possibly have excited. The accounts of the action, which
+we received from the inhabitants of the town, and peasantry in its
+vicinity, agreed perfectly with the official details which we had
+previously read; and although we could not give an opinion with
+confidence on a military question, it certainly appeared to us, that the
+operations of the French army had been ill combined. Indeed, some
+French officers with whom we conversed on the next day, allowed that the
+battle had been ill fought, but, as usual, laid all the blame upon
+Marmont. The main body of the French army, advancing by the road from
+Soissons, attacked the villages of Ardon and Semilly in front of the
+town, on the centre of Marshal Blucher's position, and his right wing,
+which was posted in the intersected ground to the west of the town, on
+the morning of the 9th of March. These parts of the position were
+occupied chiefly by the corps of Woronzoff and Buloff, and as they were
+very strong, no impression was made on them, and the troops who defended
+them maintained themselves, without support from the reserves, during
+the whole day. Late in the evening, the corps of Marmont, with a body of
+cavalry under Arrighi, appeared on the road from Rheims, advancing
+apparently without any communication or concert with the troops under
+Napoleon in person, (who were drawn up, for the most part, in heavy
+columns, in the immediate vicinity of the Soissons road), and made a
+furious attack on the extreme left of Marshal Blucher's position. The
+Marshal being satisfied by this time, that the troops in position about
+the town were adequate to the defence of it against Napoleon's force,
+was enabled to detach the whole corps of York, Kleist, and Sacken, with
+the greater part of his cavalry, to oppose Marmont, who was instantly
+overthrown, cut off from all communication with Napoleon, and driven
+across the Aisne, with the loss of four or five thousand prisoners, and
+forty pieces of cannon. The only assistance which Napoleon could give
+him in his retreat, was by renewing the attack on Ardon and Semilly,
+which he did next morning, and maintained the action during the whole of
+the 10th, with no other effect, than preventing the pursuit of Marmont
+from being followed up by the vigour which might otherwise have been
+displayed by the Silesian army, notwithstanding the fatigues which they
+had undergone at that time, during six weeks of continued marching and
+fighting.
+
+The village of Athies, where the contest with Marmont's corps was
+decided, containing about 200 houses, had been completely burnt in the
+time of the action; and, when we were there, little progress had been
+made in rebuilding it, but the inhabitants, then living in temporary
+sheds, displayed their usual cheerfulness and equanimity; they were very
+loud in reprobation of the military conduct of Marmont, and very anxious
+to convince us, that the French had been overwhelmed only by great
+superiority of numbers, and that the allies might have completely cut
+off the retreat of Marmont towards Rheims, if they had known how to
+profit by their success.
+
+June 8th, we left Laon at sunrise, and took the road to St Quentin. For
+a few miles the road passes through the plain in which the town is
+placed, after which it enters a pass, formed between the sloping hills,
+by which its boundary is marked. These hills are, for the most part,
+soft and green, like those on the banks of the Yarrow in Scotland, but
+varied, in some places, by woods and orchards; and their lower
+declivities are every where covered by vineyards and garden cultivation.
+Near their foot is placed the village of Cressy, which struck us as the
+most comfortable we had seen in France. The houses are all neat and
+substantial, covered with excellent slated roofs, and lighted by large
+windows, each surrounded by a little garden, and exhibiting a degree of
+comfort rarely to be met with among the dwellings of the French
+peasantry. On inquiry, we found that these peasants had long been
+proprietors of their houses, with the gardens attached, and had each a
+vineyard on the adjoining heights. The effects of long established
+property were here very apparent in the habits of comfort and industry,
+which, in process of time, it had ingrafted upon the dispositions and
+wishes of the people.
+
+After passing the ridge of little hills, through banks clothed with
+hanging woods, the road descends into a little circular valley,
+surrounded on all sides by rising grounds, which presented a scene of
+the most perfect rural beauty. The upper part of the hills were covered
+with luxuriant woods, whose flowing outline suited the expression of
+softness and repose by which the scene was distinguished; on the
+declivities below the wood, the vineyards, gardens, and fruit-trees,
+covered the sunny banks which descended into the plain, while the lower
+part of the valley was filled with a village, embosomed in fruit-trees,
+ornamented only by a simple spire. It is impossible for language to
+convey an adequate idea of the beauty of this exquisite scene; it united
+the interest of romantic scenery with the charm of cultivated nature,
+and seemed placed in this sequestered valley, to combine all that was
+delightful in rural life. When we first beheld it, the sun was newly
+risen; his increasing rays threw a soft light over the wooded hills, and
+illuminated the summit of the village spire; the grass and the vines
+were still glittering in the morning dew, and the songs of the peasants
+were heard on all sides, cheering the beginning of their early labour.
+The marks of cultivation harmonized with the expression by which the
+scene was characterised; they were emblematic only of human happiness,
+and had a tendency to induce the momentary belief, that in this
+sequestered spot the human species shared in the fulness of universal
+joy.
+
+As we descended into the valley, we perceived a great chateau near the
+western extremity of the village of Foudrain, which appeared still to be
+inhabited, and had none of the appearance of decay by which all that we
+had hitherto seen were distinguished. It belongs to the Chevalier
+Brancas, who is proprietor of this and seven or eight of the adjoining
+villages, and whose estates extend over a great part of the surrounding
+country. On enquiry, we found that this great proprietor had, long
+before the revolution, pursued a most enlightened and indulgent conduct
+towards his peasantry, giving them leases of their houses and gardens of
+20 or 30 years, and never removing any even at the expiration of that
+period, if their conduct had been industrious during its continuance.
+The good effects of this liberal policy have appeared in the most
+striking manner, not only in the increased industry and enlarged wealth
+of the tenants; but in the moderate, loyal conduct which they pursued,
+during the eventful period of the revolution. The farmers on this estate
+are some of the richest in France; many being possessed of a capital of
+15,000 or 16,000 francs, (from L. 750 to L. 800 Sterling,) a very large
+sum in that country, and amply sufficient for the management of the
+farms which they possessed. Their houses are neat and comfortable in the
+most remarkable degree, and the farm-steadings as extensive and
+substantial as in the most improved districts of England. The ground is
+cultivated with the utmost care, and the industry of the peasants is
+conspicuous in every part of agricultural management. It was impossible,
+in comparing these prosperous dwellings with the decayed villages in
+most other parts of the country, not to discern, in the clearest manner,
+the salutary influence of individual security upon the labouring
+classes; and the tendency which the certainty of enjoying the fruits of
+their labour has, not merely in increasing their present industry, but
+awakening those wishes of improvement, and engendering those habits of
+comfort; which are the only true foundation of public happiness.
+
+During the revolution, when the peasants of all the adjoining estates
+violently dispossessed their landlords of their property; when every
+adjoining chateau exhibited a scene of desolation and ruin; the peasants
+of this estate were remarkable for their moderate and steady conduct; so
+far from themselves pillaging their seigneur, they formed a league for
+his defence "--Ils l'ont soutenus," as they themselves expressed
+it--_and he continued throughout, and is now in the quiet possession of
+his great estate_. It is not perhaps going too far to say, that had the
+peasants throughout the country been treated with the same indulgence,
+and suffered to enjoy the same property, as in this delightful district,
+France would have been spared from all the horrors and all the
+sufferings of her revolution.
+
+From Foudrain to La Fere, the country is, for the most part, flat; and
+the road, which is shaded by lofty trees, skirts the edge of a great
+forest, which stretches as far as the eye can reach to the left; and
+joins with the forest of Villars Coterets. For many miles the road is
+bordered by fruit-trees, and the cottages have a most comfortable
+thriving appearance. To St Quentin the face of the country is flat,
+though the ridge over which you pass is high; the villages have an
+appearance of progress and opulence about them, which is rarely to be
+met with in other parts of France. All the peasantry carry on
+manufactures in their own houses; and probably their gains are very
+considerable, as their houses are much more neat and comfortable than in
+districts which are solely agricultural, and their dress bears the
+appearance of considerable wealth. The cultivation in the open country
+still continues, in general, to be wheat, barley, clover, and fallow;
+but the approach to French Flanders is very obvious, both from the
+increased quantity of rye under cultivation, from the occasional fields
+of beans which are to be met with, and from the numbers of potatoes and
+other vegetables which are to be discerned round the immediate vicinity
+of the villages. In these villages the houses are white-washed,
+surrounded by gardens, and have a smiling aspect.
+
+La Fere is a small town, surrounded with trifling fortifications,
+containing a considerable arsenal of artillery. We were much amused,
+while there, with the spectacle which the market exhibited. A great
+concourse of people had been collected from all quarters, to purchase a
+number of artillery horses which the government had exposed at a low
+price, to indemnify the people for the losses they had sustained during
+the continuance of the war. The crowds of grotesque figures which
+thronged the streets, the picturesque appearance of the horses that were
+exposed to sale, and the fierce martial aspect of the grenadiers of the
+old guard, a detachment of whom were quartered in the town, rendered
+this scene truly characteristic of the French people.
+
+St Quentin is a neat, clean, and thriving town, resembling, both in the
+forms of the houses, and the opulence of the middling classes, the
+better sort of the country towns in England. It is the seat of
+considerable manufactures, which throve amazingly under the imperial
+government, in consequence of the exclusion of the English commodities
+during the revolutionary wars. The linen manufacture is the staple
+branch of industry, and affords employment to the peasantry in their own
+houses, in every direction in the surrounding country, which is probably
+the cause of the thriving prosperous appearance by which they are
+distinguished. The great church of St Quentin, though not built in fine
+proportions, is striking, from the coloured glass of its windows, and
+its great dimensions.
+
+The French cultivation continues without any other change than the
+increased quantity of rye in the fields, and vegetables round the
+cottages, to the frontier of French Flanders. Still the country exhibits
+one unbroken sheet of corn and fallow; no inclosures are to be seen, and
+little wood varies the uniformity of the prospect. In crossing a high
+ridge which separates St Quentin from Cambray, the road passes over the
+great canal from Antwerp to Paris, which is here carried for many miles
+through a tunnel under ground. This great work was commenced under the
+administration of M. Turgot, but it was not completed till the time of
+Bonaparte, who employed in it great numbers of the prisoners whom he had
+taken in Spain. The magnitude of the undertaking may be judged of from
+the immense depth of the hollow which was cut for it, previous to the
+commencement of the tunnel, which is so great, that the canal, when seen
+from the top, has the appearance of a little stream. The course of the
+tunnel is marked on the surface of the ground by a line of chalky soil,
+which is spread above its centre, and which can be seen as far as the
+eye can reach, stretching over the vast ridge by which the country is
+traversed.
+
+At the distance of three miles from the town of Cambray, the road
+crosses the ancient frontiers of French Flanders. We had long been
+looking for this transition, to discover if it still exhibited the
+striking change described by Arthur Young, "between the effects of the
+despotism of old France, which depressed agriculture, and the free
+spirit of the Burgundian provinces, which cherished and protected it."
+No sooner had we crossed the old line of demarcation between the French
+and Flemish provinces, than we were immediately struck with the
+difference, both in the aspect of the country, the mode of cultivation,
+and the condition of the people. The features of the landscape assume a
+totally different aspect; the straight roads, the clipt elms, the
+boundless plains of France are no longer to be seen; and in their place
+succeeds a thickly wooded soil and cultivated country. The number of
+villages is infinitely increased; the village spires rise above the
+woods in every direction, to mark the antiquity and the extent of the
+population: the houses of the peasants are detached from each other, and
+surrounded with fruit trees, or gardens kept in the neatest order, and
+all the features of the landscape indicate the long established
+prosperity by which the country has been distinguished.
+
+Nor is the difference less striking in the mode of cultivation which is
+purified. Fallows, so common in France, almost universally disappear;
+and in their place, numerous crops of beans, pease, potatoes, carrots
+and endive, are to be met with. In the cultivation of these crops manual
+labour is universally employed; and the mode of cultivation is precisely
+that which is carried on in garden husbandry. The crops are uniformly
+laid out in small patches of an acre or thereby to each species of
+vegetable; which, combined with the extreme minuteness of the
+cultivation, gives the country under tillage the appearance of a great
+kitchen garden. This singular practice, which is universal in Flanders,
+is probably owing to the great use of the manual labour in the
+operations of agriculture. Rye is very much cultivated, and forms the
+staple food of the peasantry. The crops of wheat, barley, oats, rye, and
+clover, struck us as exceedingly heavy, but not nearly so clean as those
+of a similar description in the best agricultural districts of our own
+country.
+
+But it is principally in the condition, manners, and comfort of the
+people, that the difference between the French and Flemish provinces
+consists. Every thing connected with the lower orders, indicates the
+influence of long-established prosperity, and the prevalence of habits
+produced by the uninterrupted enjoyment of individual opulence. The
+population of Flanders, both French and Austrian, is perfectly
+astonishing; the villages form an almost uninterrupted line through the
+country; the small towns are as numerous as villages in other parts of
+the world, and seem to contain an extensive and comfortable population.
+These small towns are particularly remarkable for the number and
+opulence of the middling classes, resembling in this, as well as other
+respects, the flourishing boroughs of Yorkshire and Kent, and affording
+a most striking contrast to those of a very opposite description, which
+we had recently passed through in France.
+
+The cottages of the peasantry, both in the villages and the open
+country, are in the highest degree, neat, dean, and comfortable; built
+for the most part of brick, and slated in the roof; nowhere exhibiting
+the slightest symptoms of dilapidation. These houses have almost all a
+garden attached to them, in the cultivation of which, the poor people
+display, not only extreme industry, but a degree of taste superior to
+what might be expected from their condition in life: The inside bore the
+marks of great comfort, both from the cleanness which every where
+prevailed, and the costly nature of the furniture with which they were
+filled. Nothing could be more pleasing than the appearance of the
+windows, every where in the best repair, large and capacious, and
+furnished with shutters on the outside, painted green, which, together
+with the bright whiteness of the walls, gave the whole the appearance of
+buildings destined for ornamental purposes, rather than the abode of the
+lower orders of the people.
+
+Cambray is a neat comfortable town, containing 15,000 inhabitants, and
+surrounded by fortifications in tolerable repair, but which, when we
+passed them, were not armed. It was once celebrated for its magnificent
+cathedral, reckoned the finest in France; but a few ruins of this great
+building alone have escaped the fury of the people, during the
+commencement of the revolution. These trifling remains, however, were
+sufficient to convey some idea of the beautiful proportions in which the
+whole had been constructed; they resembled much the finest part of
+Dryburgh Abbey, in Scotland. The modern cathedral, built near the site
+of the old one, has a mean exterior, but possesses considerable
+splendour in the inside.
+
+From Cambray to Valenciennes, the features of the country continue the
+same as those we have just described. The surface of the ground is still
+flat, and cultivated in every part with the utmost care, in the garden
+style of husbandry. We were particularly struck, in this district, by
+the quantity of drilled crops, the admirable order in which they are
+kept, and the vast numbers of people, both men, women, and children, who
+appeared engaged in their cultivation. Nothing, indeed, but the great
+demand for labour, occasioned by the use of manual labour in husbandry,
+could have produced, or could support, the great population by which
+Flanders has always been distinguished.
+
+Valenciennes, situated in one of the finest districts of Flanders, is
+likewise a well built, comfortable town, built entirely of brick, and
+surrounded by magnificent fortifications, in admirable repair. As this
+was the first well fortified town which we had seen, it was to us a
+matter of no ordinary interest, which was encreased by the remembrance
+of the celebrated siege which it had undergone from the English army at
+the commencement of the revolutionary war. We were shewn the point at
+which the English forced their entrance; and the numberless marks of
+cannon-balls which their artillery had occasioned during the siege were
+still uneffaced. Though the modern fortifications, built after the model
+of Vauban, have not the romantic or picturesque aspect which belongs to
+the aged towers of Montreuil, Abbeville, or Laon, or the more ruinous
+walls of the town of Conway in Wales, yet they present a pleasing
+spectacle, arising partly from the regularity of the forms themselves,
+and partly from the association with which they are connected.
+
+From Valenciennes to Mons, the country is still flat, though the
+cultivation and the aspect of the scene is somewhat varied from what had
+been exhibited by the districts of French Flanders, through which we had
+previously passed. It lies lower, and appears more subject to
+inundation: Ditches appear at intervals, filled with water, and
+extensive meadows are to be seen, covered with rank and luxuriant grass.
+The cultivation of grain and green crops is less frequent, and in their
+stead, vast tracks of rich pasture cover the face of the country. Much
+wood is to be seen on all sides, often of great dimensions; and the
+population appears still as great as before. The villages succeed one
+another so fast, as almost to form a continued street; and the
+numberless spires which rise over the woods in every direction, prove
+that this number of inhabitants extends over the whole country. The
+cottages still continue neat and comfortable; not picturesque to a
+painter's eye, but exhibiting the more delightful appearance of
+individual prosperity. Their beauty is much increased by the quantity
+of wood, or the variety of fruit-trees, with which the villages are
+interspersed. There are many coal-pits in this country, and a great deal
+of carriage of this valuable mineral on the principal roads. They
+present a scene of infinitely more bustle and activity than the richest
+parts of France. We met a great number of waggons, harnessed and
+equipped like those in England; and the numbers of carriages reminded
+us, in some degree, of the extraordinary appearance, in this respect,
+which the approach to our own capital presents; a state of things widely
+different from the desolate _chaussees_ which the interior of France
+exhibits. Every thing in the small towns and villages bore the marks of
+activity, industry, and increasing prosperity. We passed with much
+interest over the celebrated field of battle of Jemappe, where the
+remains of Austrian redoubts are still visible.
+
+Mons, the frontier town of Austrian Flanders, was once a place of great
+strength, and underwent a dreadful siege during the wars of the Duke of
+Marlborough; but its ramparts are now dismantled, according to the
+ruinous policy of Joseph II. The square in the town is large, and has a
+striking appearance, owing to the picturesque and varied forms of the
+houses and public buildings of which it is formed. From the summit of
+the great steeple, to which you are conducted by a stair of 353 steps,
+there is a magnificent view over the adjacent country to a great
+distance. It is for the most part green, owing to the immense quantity
+of land under pasturage, and clothed in every direction with extensive
+woods. At a considerable distance we were shewn the woods and heights of
+_Malplaquet_, the scene of one of the Duke of Marlborough's great
+victories, of which the people still spoke, as if it had been one of the
+recent occurrences of the war. This town, when we visited it, was
+completely filled with Prussian and Saxon troops, whose intrepid martial
+appearance bespoke that undaunted character by which they have been
+distinguished in the memorable actions of which this country has since
+been the theatre.
+
+On leaving Mons, on the road to Brussels, you quit the low swampy plain
+in which the town is situated, and ascend a gentle hill, clothed with
+wood, in the openings of which many beautiful views of the spires of the
+city are to be seen. The hill itself is composed entirely of sand, and
+would be reckoned a rising ground in most other countries, but it forms
+a pleasing variety to the level plains of Flanders. From thence to
+Brussels, a distance of 35 miles, the scenery is beautiful in the
+greatest degree. Unlike the flat surface which prevails over most parts
+of this country, it is charmingly varied by hills and vallies, adorned
+by beautiful woods, whose disposition resembles rather that of trees in
+a gentleman's park, than what usually occurs in an agricultural country.
+The cottages, over the whole of this district, are particularly
+pleasing; every where white-washed, clean and comfortable; half hid by a
+profusion of fruit-trees, or the aged stems of elm and ash.
+
+Brain-le-Compte, Halle, and a number of smaller towns through which the
+road passes, are distinguished by the neatness of the houses, and the
+number and opulence of the middling classes of society. The vallies are
+admirably cultivated in agricultural or garden husbandry, and
+interspersed with numerous cottages; the gentle slopes are laid out in
+grass or pasture, and the uplands clothed with luxuriant woods. Upon the
+whole, the scenery between Mons and Brussels was the most delightful we
+had ever seen of a similar description, both from the richness and
+extent of the cultivation; the appearance of public and private
+property, which was unceasingly exhibited; the beautiful variety of the
+ground, and the charming disposition of the woods which terminate the
+view. The village spires, whose summits rise above the distant woods in
+every direction, increased the effect which the objects of nature were
+fitted to produce, both from the beauty of their forms themselves, and
+the pleasing reflections which they awaken in the mind.
+
+We passed through this beautiful country in a fine summer evening in the
+middle of June. The heat of the day had passed: The shades of evening
+were beginning to spread over the lowland country; the forest of
+Soignies was still illuminated by the glow of the setting sun, while his
+level rays shed a peaceful light over the woods which skirt the field of
+WATERLOO. We little thought that the scene, which was now expressive
+only of rest and happiness, should hereafter be the theatre of mortal
+combat: that the same sun which seemed now to set amid the blessings of
+a grateful world, should so soon illuminate a field of agony and death;
+and that the ground which we now trod with no other feelings than
+admiration for the beauty of nature, was destined to become the field of
+deathless glory to the British name.
+
+The state of agriculture from Cambray to Brussels, both in French and
+Austrian Flanders, is admirable. No fallows are any where to be seen,
+and in their place, green crops, of which beans, peas, carrots, &c. form
+the principal part. These green crops are kept very clean, and all
+worked by the spade or hoe, which furnishes employment to the immense
+population which is diffused over the country. Crops of rye, which, when
+we passed them in the middle of June, were in full ear, are every where
+very common; indeed, rye bread seems to be the staple food of the
+peasantry. Much wheat, barley, and oats, are also cultivated, with a
+great deal of sainfoin and clover, which is never pastured, but cut, and
+carried green into the stalls of the cattle. No inclosures are to be
+seen, except round the orchards and gardens which surround the villages;
+and, indeed, fences would be a useless waste of ground in a country
+where every corner is valuable, and no cattle are ever to be seen in the
+open fields. The soil seemed to be excellent throughout the whole
+country; sometimes sandy, and sometimes, a rich loam; and the crop, both
+of corn, beans, and grass, heavy and luxuriant. With the exception,
+however, of the grain crops, which are generally drilled, the fields are
+not nearly so clean as in the best parts of England.
+
+The farm steadings and implements of husbandry in all parts of Flanders,
+are greatly superior to those in France. The waggons are not only more
+numerous on the roads, but greatly neater in their construction than in
+France; the ploughs are of a better construction, and the farm offices
+both more extensive, and in better repair. Every thing, in short,
+indicated a much more improved and opulent class of agriculturists, and
+a country in which the fundamental expenses of cultivation had long been
+incurred.
+
+Near Cambray, the wages of labour are one franc a-day. Near
+Valenciennes, and from that to Mons, they are from 1 franc to 25 sous,
+that is, from 10d. to 12-1/2d. From Mons to Brussels, and round that
+town, from 1 franc to 30 sous, that is, from 10d. to 15d. The rent of
+land was stated in French Flanders at 20 francs, and the price 1000
+francs _per marcoti_; and from Valenciennes to Mons, from 35 to 50
+francs; but we could never accurately ascertain what proportion a
+marcoti bore to the English acre.
+
+The size of the farms is exceedingly various in the districts of
+Flanders which we have visited. From Cambray to Valenciennes, they were
+called from 200 to 300 _marcotis_; but from Mons to Brussels, an
+exceedingly well-cultivated district, they seldom exceed from 50 to 100
+_marcotis_; which, as far as we could judge, was not above from 25 to 50
+acres. That the size of the farms is in general exceedingly small,
+appears obviously from the immense number of farm-houses which are every
+where to be seen. The course and mode of cultivation appears to be
+precisely the same on the great and the small farms.
+
+The state of the people, both in French and Austrian Flanders, was most
+exceedingly comfortable. Not the smallest traces of dirt are to be seen,
+either in the exterior or the interior of the peasants dwellings. Their
+dress, as in France, is in general neat and substantial, covered with a
+light blue smock-frock, and without any appearance of abject want. The
+women in general appeared handsome, and very well clad. Every thing, in
+short, bespoke a rich, prosperous, and happy population.
+
+BRUSSELS is a large, populous, and in many respects a handsome town. It
+stands upon the side of a hill, the lower part being the old town, and
+the higher the fashionable quarter. Near the centre of the old town is
+placed a square of considerable size, surrounded by high antiquated
+buildings of a most remarkable construction; and the _Hotel de Ville_,
+which occupies nearly one of its sides, is ornamented by a high Gothic
+spire of the lightest form, and the most exquisite proportions. The
+Cathedral is large, and has two massy towers in front; but the effect of
+the interior, which would otherwise be very grand, from its immense
+size, is much injured by statues affixed to the pillars, and an
+intermixture of red and white colours, with which the walls are painted.
+In this Cathedral, as well as in the churches throughout Flanders which
+we visited, we were much struck by the numbers of people who attended
+service, and the earnestness with which they seemed to participate in
+religious duty;--a spectacle which was the more impressive, from the
+levity or negligence with which we had been accustomed to see similar
+services attended in France.
+
+The _Parc_, which is an immense square of splendid buildings, inclosing
+a great space, covered with fine timber, is probably the most
+magnificent square in Europe. The Royal Palace, and all the houses of
+the nobility, are here situated. There is nothing of the kind, either in
+Paris or London, which can be compared with this square, either in
+extent, the beauty of the private houses, or the richness and variety of
+the woods.
+
+At Brussels, we saw 1500 British troops on parade in the great square.
+We were particularly struck with the number and brilliant appearance of
+the officers. It would be going too far to say, that they understood
+their duty better than those of the allied armies; but they
+unquestionably have infinitely more of the appearance and manners of
+gentlemen. The proportion of officers to privates appeared much greater
+than in the other European armies; but the common soldiers had not
+nearly so sun-burnt; weather-beaten an appearance. Among the British
+troops, the Highlanders resembled most nearly the swarthy aspect of the
+foreign soldiers. The discipline of these troops was admirable; they
+were much beloved by the inhabitants, who recounted with delight
+numerous instances of their humanity and moderation. In this respect
+they formed a striking contrast to the Prussians, whose abuses and
+voracity were uniformly spoken of in terms of severe reprobation.
+
+The ramparts at Brussels, especially in the upper parts of the town, are
+planted with trees, and afford a delightful walk, commanding an
+extensive view over the adjacent country. The favourite promenade at
+Brussels, however, is the Allee Verte, situated two miles from the town,
+on the road to Antwerp, which forms a drive of two miles in length,
+under the shade of lofty trees. It was filled, when we saw it, with
+numerous parties of officers of all nations, principally German and
+British; and we could not help observing, how much more brilliant the
+appearance of our own countrymen was, than that of their brethren in any
+other service. Indeed they are taken from a different class of society:
+in the continental states, men, from inferior situations, enter the army
+with a view to obtain a subsistence; in the British service alone, men
+of rank and fortune leave the enjoyment and opulence of peaceful life,
+to share in the toils and the hardships of war.
+
+The Chateau of Lacken, now the royal dwelling, stands on an eminence in
+the vicinity of Brussels, commanding a delightful view over the environs
+of the city. There are few views in Flanders so magnificent as that from
+the summit of this palace. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, laid out in the English style, and arranged with much
+taste.
+
+The vicinity of Brussels is so much clothed with wood, as to resemble,
+when seen from the spires of the city, a continued forest. To the
+south-west, indeed, the whole country is covered with the vast forest of
+_Soignies_, clothing a range of gentle hills, which stretch as far as
+the field of Waterloo. The varieties of wood scenery which it exhibits,
+are exceedingly beautiful; and in many places, the oaks grow to an
+immense size, and present the most picturesque appearance. It was from
+this forest that Bonaparte obtained the timber for his great naval
+arsenal at Antwerp.
+
+To the south of Brussels, in the direction of Liege, and in the environs
+of that town, the country is covered with innumerable cottages, in the
+neatest order, inhabited by manufacturers, who carry on, _in their own
+houses_, the fabrics for which that city is so celebrated. These
+cottagers have all their gardens and houses in property; and the
+appearance of prosperity, which their dwellings uniformly exhibit, as
+well as the neatness of their dress, and the costly nature of their
+fare, demonstrate the salutary influence, which this intermixture of
+manufacturing and agricultural occupation is fitted to have on the
+character and habits of the lower orders of society. It resembles, in
+this particular, the state of the people in the West Riding of
+Yorkshire, and in the beautiful scenes of the vale of Gloucester.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Brussels, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their neat gardens, their substantial
+dwellings, their comfortable dress, indicated here, as elsewhere in
+Flanders, the effects of d and general prosperity. Most of these houses
+and gardens belong in property to the peasants; others are hired from
+the proprietors of the ground; but when this is the case, they generally
+have the advantage of a long lease. The peasants complained, in the
+bitterest terms, of the taxes and contributions of the French, stating
+that the public burdens had been more than quadrupled since they were
+separated from the Austrian Government, of which they still spoke in
+terms of affection and regret. The _impot fonciere_, or land-tax, under
+the French, amounted to one-fifth of the rent, or 20 _per cent_. The
+wages of labour were from 15 sous to one franc a-day; but the labourer
+dined with the farmer, his employer. Most of the land was laid out in
+garden cultivation, and every where tilled with the utmost care. The
+soil appeared rich and friable; and the crops, both of agricultural and
+garden produce, were extremely heavy. The rent was stated as varying
+from 60 to 150 francs _journatier_, which appeared to be about
+three-fourths of an acre.
+
+One thing struck us extremely in the condition of the people, both here
+and in other parts of Flanders--the sumptuous fare on which they live.
+It is a common thing to see artisans and mechanics sitting down to a
+dinner, at a table d'hote, of ten or twelve dishes; such a dinner as
+would be esteemed excellent living in England. The lower orders of the
+people, the day labourers and peasants, seemed to live, generally
+speaking, in a very comfortable manner. Vegetables form a large portion
+of their food, and they are raised in large quantities, and great
+perfection, in all parts of the country.
+
+On leaving Brussels, we took the road to Malines and Antwerp. The
+surface of the ground the whole way is perfectly flat, and much
+intersected by canals, on whose banks much rich pasture is to be seen.
+For the first six miles, the road is varied by chateaus and villas, laid
+out in the stiff antiquated style of French gardening. The cultivation
+between Brussels and Malines is all conducted in the garden style, and
+with the most incomparable neatness; but the cottages are formed of wood
+and mud, and exhibited more symptoms of dilapidation, than in any other
+part of the country which we had seen. Whether this was the consequence
+of the materials of which they are built, or was the result of some
+local institution, we were unable to determine.
+
+We saw a body of 3000 Prussian _landwehr_ enter Brussels, shortly before
+we left the city. The appearance of these men was very striking. They
+had just terminated a march of 14 miles, under a burning sun, and were
+all covered with dust and sweat. Notwithstanding the military service in
+which they had been engaged, they still bore the appearance of their
+country occupations; their sun-burnt faces, their rugged features, and
+massy limbs, bespoke the life of laborious industry to which they had
+been habituated. They wore an uniform coat or frock, a military cap, and
+their arms and accoutrements were in the most admirable order; but in
+other respects, their dress was no other than what they had worn at
+home. The sight of these brave men told, in stronger language than words
+could convey, the grievous oppression to which Prussia had been
+subjected, and the unexampled valour with which her people had risen
+against the iron yoke of French dominion. They were not regular
+soldiers, raised for the ordinary service of the state, and arrayed in
+the costume of military life; they were not men of a separate
+profession, maintained by government for the purposes of defence; they
+were the _people of the country_, roused from their peaceful employments
+by the sense of public danger, and animated by the heroic determination
+to avenge the sufferings of their native land. The young were there,
+whose limbs were yet unequal to the weight of the arms which they had
+to bear; the aged were there, whose strength had been weakened by a life
+of labour and care; all, of whatever rank or station, marched alike in
+the ranks which their valour and their patriotism had formed. Their
+appearance suited the sacred cause in which they had been engaged, and
+marked the magnitude of the efforts which their country had made. They
+were still, in some measure, in the garb of rural life, but the
+determination of their step, the soldier-like regularity of their
+motions, and the enthusiastic expression of their countenances,
+indicated the unconquerable spirit by which they had been animated, and
+told the greatness of the sufferings which had at last awakened
+
+    "The might that slumbers in a peasant's arm."
+
+There is no spectacle in the moral history of mankind more interesting
+or more sublime, than that which was exhibited by the people of the
+north of Germany in the last war. During the progress of the disastrous
+wars which succeeded the French revolution, the states of Germany
+experienced all the miseries of protracted warfare, and all the
+degradation of conquered power; but amidst the sufferings and
+humiliation to which they were subjected, the might of Germany was
+concentrating its power; the enthusiasm of her people was animating the
+soldier's courage, and the virtue of her inhabitants was sanctifying the
+soldier's cause: and when at last the hour of retribution arrived, when
+the sufferings of twenty years were to be revenged, and the disgrace of
+twenty years was to be effaced; it was by the energy of her people that
+these sufferings were revenged, and by the sacrifices of her people,
+that these victories were obtained. Crushed as they had been beneath the
+yoke of foreign dominion; shackled as they were by the fetters of
+foreign power, and unprotected as they long continued to be from the
+ravages of hostile revenge; the people of PRUSSIA boldly threw off the
+yoke, and hesitated not to encounter all the fury of imperial ambition,
+that they might redeem the glory which their ancestors had acquired, and
+defend the land which their forefathers had preserved. While Austria yet
+hung in doubt between the contending Powers; while the fate of the
+civilized world was yet pending on the shores of the Vistula, the whole
+body of the Prussian people flew to arms; they left their homes, their
+families, and all that was dear to them, without provision, and without
+defence: they trusted in God alone, and in the justice of their cause.
+This holy enthusiasm supported them in many an hour of difficulty and of
+danger, when they were left to its support alone; it animated them in
+the bloody field of Juterbock, and overthrew their enemies on the banks
+of the Katzback; it burned in the soldier's breast under the walls of
+Leipsic, and sustained the soldier's fortitude in the plains of
+Vauchamp: it terminated not till it had planted the Prussian eagle
+victorious on the ruins of that power, which had affected to despise the
+efforts of the Prussian people.
+
+The town of Malines is exceedingly neat, and ornamented by a great
+tower, of heavy architecture, producing a striking effect from every
+part of the adjoining country. The interior of the church, like that of
+all the other Catholic churches, is impressive to an English spectator,
+from the effect of its vast dimensions. The town was entirely filled by
+Prussian soldiers, and landwehr of the Prussian corps d'armee of Bulow,
+who went through their evolutions in the exactest discipline.
+
+From Malines to Antwerp the country is under a higher system of
+management, than in any other district of Flanders which we had seen. It
+is thickly planted with trees, insomuch as, from an eminence, to have
+the appearance of a continued forest. The landscape scenery, seen
+through the openings of the wood, and generally terminating in a village
+spire, is exceedingly beautiful, and reminded us of the scenes in
+Waterloo's engravings. Great quantities of potatoes and beans are to be
+seen in the fields, which are kept in the highest state of cultivation.
+The number of villages is extremely great; but the people, though so
+numerous, had all the appearance of being in a prosperous and happy
+condition.
+
+On approaching Antwerp, the trees and houses are all cut down, to give
+room for the fire of the cannon-shot from the ramparts of the fortress.
+We passed over this desolated space in the evening, soon after sunset,
+when the spires of the city had a beautiful effect on the fading colours
+of the western sky. High over all rose the spire of the cathedral, a
+most beautiful piece of the lightest Gothic, of immense height, and the
+most exquisite proportions. Though this building has stood for seven
+centuries, the carving of the pinnacles, and the finishing of the
+ornaments, are at this moment as perfect as the day they were formed;
+and when seen in shadow on an evening sky, present a spectacle which
+combines all that is majestic and graceful in Gothic architecture.
+
+After passing through the numerous gates, and over the multiplied
+bridges which surround this fortress, we found ourselves in the interior
+of Antwerp; a city of great interest, in consequence of the warlike
+preparations of which it had been the theatre, and the importance which
+had been attached to it by both parties in the recent contest. It is an
+extensive old city, evidently formed for a much more extensive commerce
+than it has now for a long period enjoyed. The form of the houses is
+singular, grotesque and irregular, offering at every turn the most
+picturesque forms to a painter's eye. We were soon conducted to the
+famous dockyard, constructed by Bonaparte, which had been the source of
+so much uneasiness to this country; and could not help being surprised
+at the smallness of the means which he had been able to obtain for the
+overthrow of our naval power. The docks did not appear to us at all
+large; but they are very deep, and during the siege, by the English and
+Prussian troops, contained 20 ships of the line, besides 14 frigates.
+When we saw them they were lying in the Scheldt, and being all within
+two miles of each other, presented a very magnificent spectacle.
+
+In the arsenal were 14 ships of the line on the stocks, of which seven
+were of 120 guns; but these vessels were all demolished except one,
+shortly after we left them, in virtue of an article in the treaty of
+Paris. Bonaparte had for long been exerting himself to the utmost to
+form a great naval depot at Antwerp; he had not only fortified the town
+in the strongest possible manner, but collected immense quantities of
+timber and other naval stores for the equipment of a powerful fleet. The
+ships first built, however, had been formed of wood, which was so ill
+seasoned, that, ever since their construction, above 200 carpenters had
+been employed annually to repair the beams which were going to decay.
+
+In the citadel, which is a beautiful fortification in the finest order,
+we conversed with various English soldiers who had been in the attack on
+Bergen-op-Zoom, of which they all spoke in terms of the utmost horror.
+Its failure they ascribed not to any error in the plan of attack, which
+they all agreed was most skilfully combined, but to a variety of
+circumstances which thwarted the attack, after its success appeared to
+have been certain. Our troops, they said, went round the ramparts, and
+carried every battery; but neglecting to spike the guns, the French came
+behind them, and turned the guns they had recently captured against
+themselves. Much also was attributed to the hesitation occasioned by the
+death of the principal officers, and the unfortunate effect of the
+discovery of some spirit cellars, from which the soldiers could not be
+restrained. We were much gratified, by hearing the warm and enthusiastic
+manner in which even the private soldiers spoke of their gallant
+commander, Sir Thomas Graham; While we admired the frank, open and
+independent spirit which these English soldiers in garrison at Antwerp
+evinced, we could not help observing, that they did not converse on
+military matters with nearly the same intelligence, or evince the same
+reflection on the manoeuvres of war, as those of the French imperial
+guard, with whom we had spoken in a former part of our journey.
+
+Though such extensive naval preparations had been going forward for
+years at Antwerp, there was not the slightest appearance of bustle at
+activity in the streets, or on the quays of the city. These were as
+deserted, as if Antwerp had been reduced to a fishing village,
+indicating, in the strongest manner, that nothing but the habits of
+commerce, and the command of the seas, can nurse that body of active
+seamen, who form the only foundation of naval power.
+
+There is a fine picture, by Oels, in the church of St Paul's at Antwerp;
+but the church itself is built in the most barbarous taste. The
+cathedral is a most magnificent building, both in the outside and
+inside; and its spire, which is 460 feet in height, is probably the
+finest specimen of light Gothic in the world. Its immense aisles were
+filled at every hour of the day, by numbers of people, who seemed to
+join in the service with sincere devotion, and exhibited the example of
+a country, in which religious feeling was generally diffused among the
+people--which formed a striking contrast to the utter indifference to
+these subjects which universally prevails in France.
+
+It was not a mere vain threat on the part of Napoleon, that he would
+burn the English manufactures. We were informed at Antwerp by
+eye-witnesses, that they had seen L. 90,000 worth of English goods
+burnt at once in the great square of that city; all of which _had been
+bought and paid for_ by the Flemish merchants. The people then spoke in
+terms of great sorrow, of the ruin which this barbarous policy had
+brought upon the people of the countries in which it was carried into
+effect.
+
+In the vicinity of Antwerp, we walked over the _Counter Dyke of
+Couvestein_, which was the scene of such desperate conflicts between the
+army of the Prince of Parma, and the troops of the United Provinces, who
+were advancing to the relief of Antwerp. The interest arising from the
+remembrance of this memorable struggle, was increased by the narrowness
+of the ground on which the action was maintained, being a long dyke
+running across the low country which borders the banks of the Scheldt
+near Fort Lillo, and which alone of all the surrounding country, at the
+time of the action, was not immersed in water. Every foot, therefore, of
+the ground of this dyke which we trod, must have been the spot on which
+a desperate struggle had been maintained. In casting our eyes back to
+the distant spires of the city of Antwerp, we could not help entering
+for an instant, into the feelings of the people who were then besieged;
+and remembering that these spires, which now rose so beautifully on the
+distant horizon, were then crowded with people, who awaited with
+dreadful anxiety, in the issue of the action which was then pending, the
+future fate of themselves and their children.
+
+To those who take an interest in the delightful study of political
+economy, and who have examined the condition of the people in different
+countries, with a view to discover the causes of their welfare or their
+suffering, there is no spectacle so interesting as that which the
+situation of the people in Flanders affords. The country is uniformly
+populous in the extreme; go where you will, you every where meet with
+the marks of a dense population; yet no where are the symptoms of
+general misery to be found; no where does the principle of population
+seem to press beyond the limits assigned for the comfortable maintenance
+of the human species. Flanders has exhibited, for centuries, the
+instance of a _numerous, dense, and happy population_. It would perhaps
+not be unreasonable to conclude, from this circumstance, that the
+doctrines now generally admitted in regard to the increase of the human
+species have been received with too little examination. Man possesses
+in himself the principles requisite for the regulation of the increase
+of the numbers of mankind; and where the influence of government does
+not interfere with their operation, they are sufficient to regulate the
+progress of population according to the interest and welfare of all
+classes of the people.
+
+
+END OF VOLUME FIRST.
+
+EDINBURGH: Printed by JOHN PILLANS, James's Court.
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS IN FRANCE,
+
+DURING THE YEARS 1814-15.
+
+COMPRISING A
+
+RESIDENCE AT PARIS DURING THE STAY OF THE ALLIED ARMIES,
+
+AND
+
+AT AIX, AT THE PERIOD OF THE LANDING OF BONAPARTE.
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED AND ENLARGED.
+
+EDINBURGH:
+
+PRINTED FOR MACREADIE, SKELLY, AND MUCKERSY, 52, PRINCE'S STREET;
+
+LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN; BLACK, PARRY AND CO. T.
+UNDERWOOD, LONDON; AND J. CUMMING, DUBLIN.
+
+1816.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+JOURNEY TO AIX.
+
+
+IT was thought advisable, by the gentleman who is now about to commence
+his journal, to avoid making many remarks on the state of the country,
+or the manners of the inhabitants, until he should have remained fixed
+for a few months in France. In no country is it so difficult as there,
+to obtain information regarding the most interesting points, whether
+commerce, manufactures, agriculture, manners, or religion; and this
+arises from the multitude of people of all descriptions, who are
+willing, and who at least appear able, to afford you information.
+Strange paradox. A Frenchman makes it a rule, never to refuse
+information on any subject when it is demanded of him; and although he
+may, in fact, never have directed his attention to the matter in
+question, and may not possess the slightest information, he will yet
+descant most plausibly, and then seeking some opportunity of bidding you
+good day, he will fly off with the velocity of an arrow, leaving you
+astonished at the talent displayed: But sit down and analyse what he has
+said, and you will commonly find it the most thorough trifling--"_vox et
+proeterea nihil_." This observation, however, I mean only to apply to the
+information which a traveller obtains _en passant_; for there are
+undoubtedly to be found in France, men of eminent talents and of solid
+information; but these you can only pick out from the mass of common
+acquaintances, by dint of perseverance, and by the assistance of time.
+The result of the observations collected during a residence of five
+months at Aix, in Provence, will be given at the end of the following
+Journal.
+
+
+JOURNAL.
+
+As our present journey was undertaken principally for the benefit of my
+health, it was necessary that we should travel slowly, and take
+occasional rests. After our journey from Dieppe to the capital, we
+remained five days in Paris for this purpose. The first part of this
+book having conducted the reader by another route to Paris, and given a
+better description of that city than I am able to supply, I have not
+thought it necessary to insert the details of our journey thither; I
+shall content myself with remarking, that we had already gained
+considerable experience in French travelling, and were pretty well
+prepared to commence our journey toward the south.--On the 7th of
+November, therefore, we arranged matters for our departure with the
+_voiturier_, or carriage-hirer, who agrees to carry us (six in number),
+with all our baggage, which weighs nearly four cwt. to Lyons, a distance
+of 330 miles, for the sum of 630 francs, or, at our exchange, nearly
+L.30. As this bargain was made for us by Mr B----, a French gentleman,
+it may afford a good standard for this style of travelling.
+
+We travel at the rate of 10 or 12 leagues a-day; and for invalids or
+persons wishing to see the country, this is by far the most pleasant, as
+well as the most economical way. There are two other methods of
+travelling, namely, _en poste_, which, though rapid, is very expensive;
+the charge being, at least a horse, often more, for each person, and
+very little baggage being taken; and the other is in a diligence, which,
+as it travels night and day, would not do for us. The carriage we now
+have is a large and commodious coach, very neat and clean, and we have
+three good strong horses. Our journey has as yet been varied by very
+little incident. The amusement derived from travelling in a foreign
+country, and becoming gradually familiarised to foreign manners,--the
+contrast between the style of travelling here, and that which you are
+accustomed to in England,--the amusing groupes of the villagers, who
+flock out of their houses, to see the English pass,--the grotesque and
+ludicrous figures of the French beggars, who, in the most unbounded
+variety of costume, surround the carriage the moment we stop,--and the
+solemn taciturnity of Monsieur Roger, our coachman, who is an
+extraordinary exception to the general vivacity of his nation; these are
+the only circumstances which serve at present to exhilarate our spirits,
+and to remove the tedium of French travelling.
+
+Between Paris and Montargis, as we travelled during the day, we had a
+good opportunity of seeing the country. But we passed through it, to be
+sure, at an unfavourable season of the year. The vines were all
+withered, and their last leaves falling off. The elm, oak, and maple,
+were almost bare. There is not much fine wood in that part of the
+country through which we passed; and on the side of the road, there were
+many wild and sad looking swamps, with nothing but willow and poplars
+docked off for the twigs. The chief produce seems to be in grapes and
+wheat; the wheat here is further advanced than between Dieppe and Paris.
+The cows are of the same kind, the horses smaller, weaker, and yet
+dearer than those of Normandy; the agricultural instruments are massy
+and awkward; their ploughing is, however, very neat and regular, though
+not deep; their plough here has wheels, and seems easily managed; they
+harrow the land most effectually, having sometimes 10 or 12 horses in
+succession, each drawing a separate harrow over the same ground. The
+farm-horses, though very poor to an English eye, are fortunately much
+better than the horses for travelling. The stacks of grain, though
+rarely seen, are very neatly built. We left the grand road at
+Fontainbleau, and took the route by Nevers to Lyons. We have found it
+hitherto by no means equal to the other. No stone causeway in the
+middle, and at this time of the year, I should fear it is always as we
+found it, very heavy and dirty.
+
+Our journey hitherto has not allowed of our mixing much among or
+conversing with the people; but still we cannot but be struck with the
+dissimilarity of manners from those of our own country. The French are
+not now uniformly, found the same merry, careless, polite, and sociable
+people they were before the revolution; but we may trust that they are
+gradually improving; and although one can easily distinguish among the
+lower ranks, the fierce uncivilized ruffians, who have been raised from
+their original insignificance by Napoleon to work his own ends, yet the
+real peasantry of the country are generally polite.
+
+At the inns, the valets and ostlers were for the most part old soldiers
+who had marched under Napoleon; they seemed happy, or at least always
+expressed themselves happy, at being allowed to return to their homes:
+one of them was particularly eloquent in describing the horrors of the
+last few months; he concluded by saying, "that had things gone on in
+this way for a few months longer, Napoleon must have made the women
+march." They affirm, however, that there is a party favourable to
+Bonaparte, consisting of those whose trade is war, and who have lived by
+his continuance on the throne; but that this party is not strong, and
+little to be feared: Would that this were true! When we were in Paris,
+there were a number of caricatures ridiculing the Bourbons; but these
+miserable squibs are no test of the public feeling. Napoleon certainly
+has done much for Paris; the marks of his magnificence are there every
+where to be seen; but the further we travel, the more are we convinced
+that he has done littler for the interior of the country.
+
+There is about every town and village an air of desolation; most of the
+houses seem to have wanted repairs for a long time. The inns must strike
+every English traveller, as being of a kind entirely new to him. They
+are like great old castles half furnished. The dirty chimneys suit but
+ill with the marble chimney-pieces, and the gilded chairs and mirrors,
+plundered in the revolution; the tables from which you eat are of ill
+polished common wood; the linen coarse though clean. The cutlery, where
+they have any, is very bad; but in many of the inns, trusting, no doubt,
+to the well known expedition of French fingers, they put down only forks
+to dinner.
+
+We left Montargis at seven in the morning, and travelled very slowly
+indeed. At five o'clock, after a very tedious journey, we arrived at
+Briare, a distance of only 27 miles from Montargis. The landlord here
+was the most talkative, and the most impudent fellow I ever saw.
+Although demanding the most unreasonable terms, he would not let us
+leave his house; at last he said that he would agree to our terms,
+namely, 18 francs for our supper and beds: It is best to call it supper
+in France, as this is their own phrase for a meal taken at night.
+
+The road between Montargis and Briare, though not of hard mettle and
+without causeway, is yet level and in good condition. The country,
+except in the immediate vicinity of Briare, is flat and uninteresting;
+no inclosures; the soil of a gravelly nature, mixed in some parts with
+chalk. It seems, from the stubble of last year and the young wheat of
+this, to be very poor indeed. There is here an odd species of wheat
+cultivation, in which the grain, like our potatoes, is seen growing on
+the tops of high separate ridges. It struck me that the deep hollows
+left between each ridge, might be intended to keep the water. The
+instruments of agriculture are quite the same as we have seen all along.
+Almost all of the peasants whom we saw to-day wore cocked hats, and had
+splendid military tails; we supposed, at first that they had all
+_marched_. There are great numbers of soldiers returning to their homes,
+pale, broken down and wearied. Some of them very polite, many of them
+rough and ruffian-looking enough. About Briare, there are innumerable
+vineyards, and yet we had very bad grapes; but that was our landlord's
+fault, not that of the vines.
+
+The rooms at this inn (Au Grand Dauphin), smoke like the devil, or
+rather like his abode. It is a wretched place; the inn opposite, called
+La Poste, is said to be better. The weather is now as cold here (10th of
+November), as I have ever felt it in winter at home, and it is a more
+piercing and searching cold.
+
+We had last night a good deal of rain. The weather is completely broken
+up, and we are at least three weeks or a month later than we ought to
+have been.
+
+* * *
+
+We have arrived at Cosne to-night, (the 11th), after a journey through a
+country better wooded, more varied, and upon the whole, finer than we
+have seen yet on this side of Paris, though certainly not so beautiful
+as Normandy. The road is pretty good, though not paved, excepting in
+small deep vallies. It lies along-side of the river Loire, and on each
+side, there are well cultivated fields, chiefly of wheat, but
+interspersed with vineyards.
+
+For the first time, this day we had a very severe frost in the morning,
+but with the aid of the sun, which shone bright and warm, we enjoyed one
+of the finest days I ever saw. I sat and chatted with the coachman, or
+rather with Monsieur le Voiturier. I led the conversation to the past
+and present state of France, and the character of Napoleon, and
+immediately he, who till this moment appeared to be as meek and gentle
+as a lamb, became the most eloquent and energetic man I have seen. It is
+quite wonderful, how the feelings of the people, added to their habits
+of extolling their own efforts, and those of Bonaparte, supply them with
+language. They are on this subject all orators. He declared, that Paris
+was sold by Marmont and others, but that we English do not understand
+what the Parisians mean when they say that Paris was sold. They do not
+mean that any one was paid for betraying his trust by receiving a bribe,
+but that Marmont and others having become very rich under Bonaparte,
+desired to spend their fortunes in peace, and had, therefore, deserted
+their master. He said that Bonaparte erred only in having too many
+things to do at once; but that if he had either relinquished the Spanish
+war for a while, or not gone to Moscow, no human power would have _been
+a match for him_, and even we in England would have felt this. He seemed
+to think, that it was an easy thing for Bonaparte to have equipped as
+good a navy as ours. He was quite insensible to the argument, that it
+was first necessary to have commerce, which nourishes our mariners, from
+among whom we have our fighting seamen. He said, that though _this was a
+work of years for others, it would have been nothing for Napoleon_: In
+short, he venerates the man, and says, that till the day when he left
+Paris, he was the greatest of men. He says, he knows well that there is
+still a strong party favourable to him among the military; yet that if
+they can once be set down at their own firesides, they will never wish
+to quit them, but that the danger will be, while they remain together in
+great bodies.
+
+To-day we saw several soldiers wounded, and returning to their homes in
+carts; they were fierce swarthy looking fellows, but very merry, and
+travelled singing all the way. To-morrow we expect to be at Nevers. At
+Cosne, the only objects of curiosity to the traveller are the
+manufactories of cutlery and ship anchors. The cutlery seems as good as
+any we have seen, but far inferior to even our inferior English cutlery:
+It is also dear. Thousands of boxes, with cutlery, were, immediately on
+our arrival at the inn, presented to us. Their great deficiency is in
+steel, for their best goods are nearly as highly polished as in England.
+We bought here some very pretty little toys for children, made of small
+coloured beads. We start to-morrow at six.----Distance about 19
+miles to Cosne.
+
+* * *
+
+This day's journey (the 12th), was the most fatiguing and the least
+interesting we have had. The country between Cosne and Nevers is, with
+the exception of one or two fine views from the heights on the road, the
+poorest, and, though well cultivated, has the least pretensions to
+beauty of any we have seen, particularly in the vicinity of Pouilly. It
+seems also to be nearly as poor as it is ugly. The soil is gravelly,
+with a mixture of chalk, and there occurs what I have not yet elsewhere
+seen, a great deal of fallow land, and even some common. The face of the
+country is considerably diversified by old wood, but we have only seen
+one plantation of young trees since we left Paris. The instruments of
+agriculture and carriage the same as before mentioned. The farm horses
+good. There seems a scarcity of milk, but this may be from the winter
+having set in. At the inn here I met with a young officer, who although
+only (to appearance) 17 or 18, had been in the Spanish war, at Moscow,
+and half over the world. He struck his forehead, when he said, [4]"Nous
+n'avons plus la guerre." There were at the inn here a number of officers
+and soldiers of the cavalry. Their horses are not to be compared with
+ours, either in size or beauty, and those of their officers are not so
+good, by any means, as the horses of our men in the guards.----
+Distance, 34 miles--to Nevers.
+
+* * *
+
+We went to walk in the town this morning, the 13th. The description of
+one French town on the Sunday will serve for all which we have seen.
+They are every day sufficiently filthy, but on Sunday, from the
+concourse of people, more than commonly so. They never have a pavement
+to fly to for clean walking, and for safety from the carriages. If you
+are near a shop, a lane, or entry when a carriage comes along, you may
+fly in, if not, you must trust to the civility of the coachman, who, if
+polite, will only splash you all over. On Sundays, their markets are
+held the same as on other days, and nearly all the shops had their doors
+open, but _their windows shut_. Thus they cheat the Devil, and, as they
+think, render sufficient homage to him who hath said, on that day "thou
+shalt do no manner of work." Yet while all this is going on, the
+churches are open, and those who are inclined go in, and take a minute,
+a quarter, half an hour, or an hour's devotion, as they think fit. We
+entered the nearest of these churches, and saw, what is always to be
+seen in them, a great deal, at least, of the outward shew of religion,
+and something in a few individuals of the congregation which looked like
+real devotion. After church, we went to the convent of St Mary, and were
+all admitted, both ladies and gentlemen. The nuns there are not, by any
+means, strictly confined; they are of that description who go abroad and
+attend the sick. Their pensioners (chiefly children from four to
+sixteen) are allowed to go and see their friends; and they were all
+presented to us. They are taught to read, write, work, &c. and are well
+fed and clothed. This convent was very neat and clean. The building
+formed a complete square, and the ground in the interior was very
+beautifully laid out as a garden. The cloisters were ornamented with
+pots of roses and carnations in full bloom, with the care of which the
+young pensioners amused themselves. They have a very pretty small
+chapel, over the outer door of which is written, [5]"Grand silence;" and
+over the inner this inscription; whose menacing promises is so ill
+suited to the spirit and temper of its conclusion: "Ah, que ce maison
+est terrible, c'est la maison de Dieu, et la porte du ciel." The holy
+sisters were of all ages, and many of them pretty--one, the handsomest
+woman I have seen in France.
+
+The ladies are just returned from a longer walk, and report the town to
+be ugly, and the streets insufferably dirty. Its manufactures are china,
+glass, and enamelled goods; toys of glass beads, and little trifles. The
+shopkeepers are, as in every town we have been at, perfect Jews, devoid
+of any thing like principle in buying and selling. We are every day
+learning more and more how to overcome our scruples with regard to
+_beating them down_. They always expect it, and only laugh at those who
+do not practise it.
+
+* * *
+
+This day we left Nevers at six in the morning. It appears to be a large
+town, when viewed from the bridge over which we crossed; but it is far
+from being a fine town in the interior. The streets are, like all French
+streets, narrow, and the houses have a look of antiquity, and a want of
+all repair; nothing like comfort, neatness, or tidiness, in any one of
+them. This is a melancholy desideratum in France, a want for which
+nothing can compensate. The road this day conducted us through a finer
+district than we have observed on this side of Paris; more especially
+between Nevers and St Pierre, where we have travelled through a richer
+and more beautiful country than we have yet seen. No longer the sand,
+and gravel, and chalk, which we have long been accustomed to, but a dark
+rich soil over a bed of freestone. Here also all the land is well
+enclosed. I have not yet been able to find the reason of this sudden
+change in the manner of preserving the fields: The face of the country
+is also more generally wooded; but from the necessity the French are
+under of cutting down whatever wood they find near the towns for their
+fires, all the fine trees are ruined in appearance, by their branches
+being lopped off: The effect of this on the appearance of the country is
+very sad.--Still we find a want of that agreeable alternation of hill
+and dale, of the enclosed meadows, and wooded vallies; of the broad and
+beautiful rivers and the small winding streams, which, as the finest
+features in their native landscape, have become necessary to a Scotch or
+an English eye.
+
+The dress of the women is here different from what we have elsewhere
+seen: the peasants' wives wearing large gipsey straw hats, very much
+turned up behind and before; the men have still the immense
+broad-brimmed black felt affairs, more like umbrellas than Christian
+hats. At the inn here, I saw a number of wounded soldiers returning to
+their homes; one of them, I observed, had his feet outside of his shoes.
+On entering into conversation with him, he told me that his toes had
+been nearly frozen off, but _that he expected to get them healed_: poor
+fellow, he was not above twenty. He told me that all the _young
+conscripts_ were delighted to return to their homes, and that only the
+old veterans were friends to the war.--I hope this may be true, but I
+doubt it. The country here shows that the winter is not so far advanced;
+many of the trees are still green; the roads had become heavy with the
+rain that has fallen; we have had two days hard frost, but to-day the
+weather is mild, and the air moist. We were recommended to the Hotel des
+Allies here, but preferred stopping at the first good-looking inn we
+found, as in great towns things are very dear at the houses of great
+resort; we have had a very good supper and tolerable lodgings for 18
+francs.
+
+To-morrow, we set out at seven.--We find our way of travelling tedious;
+but I think in summer it would be by far the best. Our three horses
+seldom take less than 10, sometimes 13 hours to their day's journey, of
+from 28 to 32 miles; but our carriage is large and roomy; and had we any
+thing like comfort at our inns, as at home, we should find the
+travelling very pleasant. The greatest annoyance arises from your having
+always to choose from the two evils, of being either shamefully imposed
+upon, or of having to bargain before-hand for the price of your
+entertainment.
+
+* * *
+
+It was near eight o'clock this morning, the 16th, before we got under
+weigh, and according to our coachman's account, we had been delayed by
+the horses being too much fatigued the night before. He continued to
+proceed so slowly, that we only reached Varrenes at four o'clock, a
+distance of 22 miles from Moulins, where we had last slept. Moulins is
+the finest town we have seen since we left Paris. The streets are there
+wider, and the houses, though old and black, are on a much better plan,
+and in better repair than any we have passed through; there is also
+somewhat of neatness and cleanliness about them. It is famous for its
+cutlery, and has a small manufacture of silk stockings; we saw some of
+the cutlery very neat and highly polished in some parts, but coarse and
+ill finished in others. The variety of shapes which the French give
+their knives is very amusing.
+
+The road between Moulins and Varrenes is through a much prettier country
+than we have seen since we left Paris; there is more wood, with
+occasional variety of orchards and vineyards and corn fields. The
+ploughing, is here carried on by bullocks, and these are also used in
+the carts. All the country is enclosed, and the lands well dressed. The
+wheat is not nearly so far advanced here, which must arise from its
+being more lately sowed, for the winter is only commencing; many of the
+trees are still in fall leaf.
+
+We cannot well judge of any change of climate, as we have just had a
+change from hard frost to thaw; but every thing has the appearance of a
+milder atmosphere. I enquired into the reason of the want of hedges
+hitherto, and their abundance here, and was told, that it arose from the
+greater subdivision of property as well as from the number of cows: that
+every man almost had his little piece of land, and his cow, pigs, hens,
+&c. and that they could not afford to have herds. The yoke of the
+bullocks here, is not, as in India, and in England, placed on the neck
+and shoulders, but on the forehead and horns: this, though to appearance
+the most irksome to the poor animals, is said here to be the way in
+which they work best. The sheep are very small, and of a long-legged and
+poor kind: the hogs are the poorest I have ever seen; they are as like
+the sheep as possible, though with longer legs, and resembling
+greyhounds in the drawn-up belly and long slender snout; they seem
+content with wondrous little, and keep about the road sides, picking up
+any thing but wholesome food.
+
+The cottages on the road, and in the small towns, are generally very
+dirty, and inhabited by a very motley and promiscuous set of beings; the
+men, women, children, indeed pigs, fowls, &c. all huddled together. The
+pigs here appear so well accustomed to a cordial welcome in the houses,
+that when by chance excluded, you see them impatiently rapping at the
+door with their snouts.
+
+* * *
+
+We left Varrenes this morning, at six o'clock, and entered on a new
+country, which presented to us a greater variety of scenery. The road
+between Varrenes and St Martin D'Estreaux is almost all the way among
+the hills, which are often covered to the top with wood. After
+travelling for so long a time through a country which was almost
+uniformly flat, our sensations were delightful in again approaching
+something like a hilly district. The roads we found extremely bad, and
+although we have had rain, I do not think that their condition is to be
+ascribed to the weather. They want repair, and appear to have been
+insufficient in their metal from the first. We were obliged here to have
+a fourth horse, which our coachman ordered and paid for; he went with us
+as far as Droiturier, and then left us. We made out 28 miles of bad
+road, between six in the morning and four in the evening. The hilly
+country throughout is extremely well cultivated, and the soil apparently
+pretty good. France has indeed shewn a different face from what an
+Englishman would expect, after such a draining of men and money.
+
+In our route to-day, the country became very interesting, the swelling
+hills were beautiful, and the first clear stream we have seen in France
+winded through a wooded valley, along whose side we travelled. Many
+little cottages were scattered up and down in the green intervals of the
+woods, or crept up the brows of the hills; and after the monotonous
+plains we had passed, the whole scene was truly delightful. At the inn
+at La Palisse, I met with a very pleasant French lady, who strongly
+advised me to avoid Montpellier, as the winds there are very sharp in
+winter; she said two friends of her's had been sent from it on account
+of complaints contracted there. She recommended Nice.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Thursday_, 17th.)--The road to-day was through ranges of hills, and,
+for the latter part of it, we were obliged to have a fourth horse. The
+road very heavy in most places, and in some wretchedly ill-paved, with
+stones of unequal size, and not squared. From the top of these hills the
+view of the several vallies through which we passed was very beautiful,
+though certainly not equal in beauty to Devonshire, or to some parts of
+Perthshire, and other of the more fertile districts in Scotland: the
+soil far from good, and the crops of wheat thin;--yet there is not an
+atom of the soil lying waste, the hills being cultivated up to the
+summit. The cultivation is still managed by oxen, as is the carriage of
+farm produce, and all kinds of cart-work. They have had a sad mortality
+among the cattle about St Germain L'Epinasse; and all things appear to
+have been affected by this disaster, for we found the milk, butter,
+fowls, grain, every thing very dear indeed. In France, when a disease
+seizes the cattle, parties of soldiers are sent to prevent the people
+from selling their cattle, or sending them to other parts of the
+country. One of these parties (a small troop of dragoons) we met on the
+road.
+
+On our route to-day, we crossed the Loire at a pretty large and busy
+town, called Roanne. The river here is very large, but has only a wooden
+bridge over it: there are some fine arches, forming the commencement of
+a most magnificent new stone bridge, the work of Napoleon; the work had
+the appearance of having been some time interrupted. Alas, that the good
+King cannot continue such works!
+
+Here, for the first time, we saw coals, and in great quantity; the boats
+on which they are carried, are long, square flat-bottomed boxes.
+Although in a mountainous country, and with a poor soil, the houses of
+the peasants were here much better than any we have seen, though a good
+deal out of repair; they are high and comfortable, having many of them
+two flats, and all with windows. We saw a number of fields in which the
+people were turning up and dressing the soil with spades: This, and
+indeed many other things in this mountainous part of the country,
+reminded me of parts of the Highlands of Scotland, and the island of St
+Helena. But it would not be easy to conceive yourself transported to
+those parts of the world, when here you every now and then encounter a
+peasant in a cocked hat, with a red velvet coat, or with blue velvet
+breeches: this proclaims us near Lyons, the country of silks and
+velvets. The climate is very delightful at present; during a great part
+of to-day, I sat on the box with _Monsieur le Voiturier_, who is now
+become so attached to us, that I think he will go with us to our
+journey's end. He is a most excellent, sober and discreet man, and has
+given us no trouble, and ample satisfaction. To-day, we passed two very
+pretty clear streams. The country seats are numerous here, but none of
+those that we have yet seen are fine; they are either like the very old
+English manor-houses, or if of a later date, are like large
+manufactories; a mass of regular windows, and all in ruinous condition;
+nothing like fine architecture have we yet met with. To-morrow we start
+again at six, and hope to sleep within four leagues of Lyons.----
+Distance 34 miles--to St Simphorien de Lay.
+
+* * *
+
+This morning, we set off, as usual, at six, and only made out in five
+hours a distance of 16 miles, arriving at the small town of Tarrare,
+which is beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. This difficulty
+in travelling is occasioned by the road being extremely precipitous. It
+winds, however, for several miles very beautifully through the valley,
+by the banks of a clear stream; and the hills which rise on each side,
+are in many places cultivated to the top, while others are richly
+wooded: towards the bases they slope into meadows, which are now as
+green as in the middle of summer, and where the cows are grazing by the
+water-side. The air is warm and pleasant, the sky unclouded, and the
+light of a glorious sun renders every object gay and beautiful. This
+valley is, I think, much more beautiful than any part of France we have
+yet seen. Through the passes in the hills, we have had some very fine
+peeps at the country to which we are travelling. Every inch of the
+ground on these mountains is turned to good account; as the grass, from
+the soil and exposure, is very scanty, the peasants make use of the same
+method of irrigating as at St Helena. Where there is found a spring of
+water, they form large reservoirs into which it is received, and from
+these reservoirs they lead off small channels, which overflow the field,
+and give an artificial moisture to the soil. The houses of the peasants
+are still excellent, but there appears a great want of cattle. The
+fields are ploughed with oxen, very small and lean; we had two of them
+to assist us on the way from St Simphorien to Pain Bouchain.
+
+At Tarrare, I am sorry to say, we found a want of almost every comfort.
+It is a pretty large town, neater in exterior appearance than any we
+have seen, but very dirty within; it is famous for its muslins and
+calicoes.----All this day we have had nothing but constant ascending
+and descending; the country occasionally very fine, and always well
+cultivated. The ploughs here are very small and ill made; they have no
+wheels, and are drawn by oxen. Some of the valleys in our route to-day
+would be beyond any thing beautiful, if varied with a few of those fine
+trees, which we are accustomed to meet with every day in England and
+Scotland; but the manner in which the French trees are cut, clipped, and
+hacked, renders them very disgusting to our eyes. I have not seen one
+truly fine tree since we left Paris, about the environs of which there
+are a few. There is also a great scarcity of gentlemen's seats, of
+castles and other buildings, and of gardens of every kind. France, one
+would suppose, ought to be the country of flowers; but not one flower
+garden have we yet seen.----Distance about 31 miles--to the
+Half-way-House, between Arras and Salvagny.
+
+* * *
+
+(_Saturday, 18th._)--We left the inn at the half-way village, whose name
+I forgot to ask, between Arras and Salvagny, at six this morning, and
+arrived at Lyons at half-past ten. On the subject of to-day's route very
+little can be said. The first part of it conducted over a long
+succession of very steep hills, for about four miles, after which we
+descended through a fine varied country to the city of Lyons.----
+Distance, 16 miles to Lyons.
+
+Lyons is certainly a fine town, although, like Paris, it has only a few
+fine public buildings, among a number of very old and ruinous-looking
+houses. It is chiefly owing to the ideas of riches and commerce with
+which both of these towns _are connected_, that we would call them
+_fine_, for they have neither fine streets nor fine ranges of houses. I
+need not mention, that Lyons is the place of manufacture for all kinds
+of silks, velvets, ribbons, fringes, &c. But here, as at many
+manufactories, things bought by retail are as dear, or even dearer, than
+at Paris. The ladies of our party had built castles in the air all the
+way to Lyons; but they found every thing dearer than at Paris, and
+almost as dear as in England.
+
+Now that I have seen a little of the manners and dress of the people in
+the two largest towns in France, I may hazard a few observations on
+these subjects. I think it is chiefly among the lower ranks that the
+superior politeness of the French is apparent. Although you still find
+out the ruffians and banditti who have figured on the stage under
+Napoleon, yet the greater, by far the greater number, are mild,
+cheerful, and obliging. A common Frenchman, in the street, if asked the
+way to a place, will generally either point it out very clearly, or say,
+"Allow me to accompany you, Sir." Among the higher ranks of society you
+will find many obliging people; but you will also discover many whose
+situation alone can sanction your calling them gentlemen. There
+appears, moreover, in France, to be a sort of blending together of the
+high and low ranks of society, which has a bad effect on the more
+polite, without at all bettering the manners of the more uncivilized. To
+discover who are gentlemen, and who are not, without previously knowing
+something of them, or at least entering into conversation, is very
+difficult. In England, all the middling ranks dress so well, that you
+are puzzled to find out the gentleman. In France, they dress so ill in
+the higher ranks, that you cannot distinguish them from the lower. One
+is often induced to think, that those must be gentlemen who wear orders
+and ribbons at their buttons, but, alas! almost every one in France at
+the present day has one of these ribbons. In the dress of the women
+there is still less to be found that points out the distinction of their
+ranks. To my eye, they are all wretchedly ill dressed, for they wear the
+same dark and dirty-looking calicoes which our Scotch maid-servants wear
+only on week days. This gives to their dress an air of meanness; but
+here the English ought to consider, that these cotton goods are in
+France highly valued, and very dear, from their scarcity. Over these
+dresses they wear (at present) small imitation shawls, of wool, silk,
+or cotton. They have very short petticoats, and shew very neat legs and
+ankles, but covered only with coarse cotton stockings, seldom very
+white; often with black worsted stockings. I have not seen one
+handsomely dressed woman as yet in France; the best had always an air of
+shabbiness about her, which no milliner's daughter at home would shew.
+They are said to dress much more gaily in the evening. When we mix a
+little more in French society, we shall be able to judge of this.
+
+This want of elegance and richness in dress, is, I think, one of the
+marks of poverty in France. I have mentioned before the ruinous
+appearance of the villages and houses. The excessive numbers of beggars
+is another. The French themselves say that there is a great want of
+money in France; they affirm that there is no scarcity of men, and that
+with more money the French could have fought for many years to come.
+They certainly are the vainest people in the universe; they have often
+told me, _that could Bonaparte have continued his blockade of the
+Continental trade a few months more, England would have been undone_.
+They sometimes confess, that they would have been rather at a loss for
+Coffee, Sugar, and Cotton, had we continued our war with the Americans,
+who were their carriers. The want of the first of these articles would
+annoy any country, but in France they cannot live without it: in England
+they might.
+
+* * *
+
+This day, _Monday_ the 20th, we left Lyons at one o'clock in the
+forenoon, travelling in most unfavourable weather, and through almost
+impassable streets. The situation of Lyons is beautiful; the site of the
+town is at the conflux of the Soane and the Rhone; a fine ridge of hills
+rises behind the city; the innumerable houses which are scattered up and
+down the heights, the fine variety of wood and cultivation, and the
+little villages which you discern at a distance in the vallies, give it
+the appearance of a romantic, yet populous and delightful neighbourhood.
+
+We were not able to see much of the interior of the town; but in passing
+once or twice through the principal streets, and more particularly in
+leaving the town, we had a good view of the public buildings. Many of
+them are very fine, and the whole town has an appearance of wealth, the
+effect of commerce. But a better idea of the wealth is given, by the
+innumerable loads of goods of different kinds, which you meet with on
+the roads in the vicinity of this favoured city, on the Paris and
+Marseilles sides of the town. The roads are completely ploughed up at
+this season of the year, and almost impassable. The waggoners are even a
+more independent set of men than with us in England; they keep their
+waggons in the very middle of the road, and will not move for the
+highest nobleman in the land; this, however, is contrary to the police
+regulations. The land carriage here is almost entirety managed by mules.
+These are from 13 to 14 hands high, and surpass in figure and limb
+anything I could have imagined of the sons and daughters of asses. The
+price of these animals varies from L.10 to L.40, according to size and
+temper. They are found of all colours; but white, grey, and bay are the
+most uncommon. Our journey this day was only as far as Vienne, a pretty
+large village, or it might be called a town. We entered it at night, and
+the rain pouring down upon us. These are two very great evils in French
+travelling; for either of them puts you into the hands of the
+innkeepers, who conceive, that at night, and in such weather, you must
+have lodging speedily, at any price. At the first inn we came to, we met
+with a reception, (which, to those accustomed to the polite and grateful
+expression, with which in arriving at an English inn, you are received
+by the attentive host or hostess), was altogether singular. The landlady
+declared, with the voice and action of a virago, that at this time of
+night, the highest guests in the land should not enter her roof upon any
+terms. The landlord, on the contrary, behaved with great politeness,
+entreated not to take offence at his wife's uncommon appearance. "C'est
+seulement un tete chaud, Monsieur, mais faites moi l'honeur d'y entrer."
+We accordingly did so; and this was the signal for the commencement of a
+scene in the interior of the inn, which was probably never equalled in
+the annals of matrimonial dissension. The landlady first gave a kind of
+prefatory yell, which was only a prelude of war-whoop, introductory to
+that which was to follow. She then began to tear her hair in handfuls;
+and kept alternately brandishing knives, forks, pots, logs of wood, in
+short, whatever her hand fell upon in the course of her fury, at her
+poor passive help-mate, who appeared to consider the storm with a
+nonchalance, which evidently could only have been produced by very long
+experience; while he kept saying to us all the time, [6]_"Soyez
+tranquille, Monsieur; ce n'est rien que cela."_ At length he commenced
+getting ready our supper, and I entered into conversation with a very
+great man, the mayor of the village, who, _adorned with a splendid order
+at his breast_, was quietly bargaining for his supper. Nothing more
+completely astonishes an Englishman than this extraordinary mixture of
+all ranks of society, which takes place at the kitchen fire of a French
+inn. You will there see, not only sitting, but familiarly conversing
+together, officers and gentlemen, coachmen, waggoners, and all classes
+of people, each addressing the other as _Monsieur_. The mayor here,
+being, to all appearance, a most communicative fellow, was easily got on
+the politics of the day. I began by enumerating the blessings of peace,
+and by extolling the character of the present King, in all of which he
+seemed to join with heart and soul. He told me how Bonaparte treated the
+mayors of the different towns,--how he would raise them up at all hours
+of the night,--how he forced them to seize on grain wherever it was
+found. In short, he abused him in the vilest terms. I put in an
+observation or two in his favour, when suddenly my friend whispered
+me,--"Sir, to be frank with you, he was the greatest man ever lived, and
+the best ruler for France." I encouraged him a little, by assenting to
+all he said, and I found him a staunch friend of Napoleon, anxious for
+his return: I have no doubt, that time-serving gentlemen like these,
+would wish for nothing more. It appeared to me, that his highness, the
+mayor, was in very high spirits, either from wine, or that it was his
+nature--however, "In vino veritas."----Distance, nineteen miles to
+Vienne.
+
+* * *
+
+We had a miserable lodging at this vile inn, (Hotel du Parc at Vienne.)
+We left it with pleasure, this morning, (_Tuesday_ the 21st), although
+the weather continued most unfavourable; yet any thing was better than
+remaining in such a house. The day continued to rain without
+intermission; and we made out with difficulty about 30 miles, to St
+Vallier. The country through which we passed to-day, is the most bare
+and barren we have seen, particularly when we approached St Vallier. The
+soil, a deep gravel, producing nothing but grapes, and a wretched scanty
+crop of wheat. The grapes, however, are here the finest for wine in
+France. It is here that the famous wines of Cote Rotie and Hermitage are
+made. To the very summits of the hills, you see this wretched looking
+soil enclosed with stone dykes, and laid out in vineyards. We tasted
+some of the grapes here, and though out of season, we found them very
+fine; they were of a small black kind called Seeran.
+
+The woman at the inn here, was sent for from the church, to see whether
+she would receive us on our terms of 18 francs, which is what we now
+always pay; having asked 20, we settled with her, and she went back to
+her devotions. We have now had three days of continued rain, which
+renders travelling very uncomfortable, and the roads most wretched. We
+still rise every morning at five, and are on the road at six. The air is
+mild, but very damp. The honey of Narbonne, got at Lyons, is the finest
+in France. I forgot to mention, that at Lyons we tried the experiment of
+going to the _table d'hote_. We ought not, however, to form the opinion
+of a good _table d'hote_ from the one of the Hotel du Parc. It was
+mostly composed of what are here called _Pensionaires_; people who dine
+there constantly, paying a smaller sum than the common rate of three
+francs. The company was, therefore, rather low, and the table scantily
+provided; but I should think, that for gentlemen travellers, a _table
+d'hote_, where a good one is held, would be the best manner of
+dining.----Distance 30 miles to St Vallier.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, the 22d.--We left St Vallier at half past six in the
+morning, and only reached St Valence, a distance of 23 miles, by five
+o'clock. This delay was occasioned by the heavy fall of rain during
+these four last days, and by there being no bridge over the Isere,
+within four or five miles of Valence. The former bridge, (a most
+beautiful one, though only of wood), had been burnt down, by General
+Augereau to intercept the progress of the Austrians. The French appear
+to hate Augereau as much as Marmont; they say he was a traitor to
+Napoleon, to whom he owed every thing. The country through which we
+passed to-day, was as plain and uninteresting as yesterday's, though
+still all cultivated. Nothing but vines on the hills, and the plains
+almost bare--still gravelly. We found the Isere much swollen by the
+rain. The contrivance for carrying over the carts and carriages, is
+exceedingly simple and beautiful: Three very high trees are formed into
+a triangle, such as we raise for weighing coals. One of these is placed
+on each side of the river, and a rope passes over a groove at the top,
+and is fixed down at each side of the river; to this rope that crosses
+the river is attached a block and pulley, and to this pulley is fixed
+the rope of the boat. The stream tries by its rapidity to carry the boat
+down; the rope across prevents this; and it therefore slides across,
+with a regular though rapid motion.
+
+It appears to me that we are getting into a poorer country in every
+respect; for the inns are worse, the food worse, the roads worse, &c.
+There seems a want of poultry as well as butcher meat. Mutton here is
+very poor. Our inn to-night is the best we have seen since we left
+Lyons; it is at the Golden Cross, outside the town of Valence, and is
+neatly kept and well served. The waiter here had served in the army for
+six years. He says, there are indeed many of the soldiers who wish for
+war; but that he really believes there are as many who wish for peace: I
+have little faith in this. We observed this morning a large party of men
+returning from the galleys, having passed the time of their
+imprisonment. They were all uniformly dressed in red flannel clothes and
+small woollen caps, and attended by gens-d'armes.----Distance 23
+miles--to St Valence.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday_, the 23d.--We left St Valence well enough pleased with our
+lodging at the Golden Cross. It is, however, an exception to the bad set
+of inns we have lately been at. In the kitchen here, which I entered
+from curiosity, as the ladies went up stairs to the parlour, I found, as
+usual, a most extraordinary mixture of company. I listened, without
+joining at all in the conversation. The theme of discourse was a report
+that had been circulated, that all the young troops were to hold
+themselves in readiness again to take up arms. The only foundation I
+could find for this report was, _that a drum had been beat for some
+reason or other that evening._ This was a good opportunity of attending
+to the state of the public feeling here;--all and every one seemed
+delighted at the thoughts of war, provided it was with the Austrians.
+One man (a shopkeeper to appearance), said, that his son, a trumpeter,
+when he heard the drum, leapt from his seat, and, dancing about the
+room, exclaimed, [7]"La guerre! la guerre!" On the route this morning,
+we met with a small party of five or six soldiers returning to their
+homes; two of them had lost their right arms, and two others were lamed
+for life. They all agreed that they would never have wished for peace;
+and that even in their present miserable state they would fight. They
+were very fine stout fellows, about 40 years of age; but they had the
+looks of ruffians when narrowly examined.
+
+In the same inn the hostler, who had only fought one year, was as
+anxious for a continuation of peace as the others were for war. The wife
+of one of these soldiers gave a most lamentable description of the
+horrors of the last campaign, and ended by praying for a continuation of
+the peace.
+
+At a little village near Montelimart (our lodging place to-night), we
+were accosted in very bad English by a good-looking young Frenchman,
+who, from our appearance, knew us to be English. He told us that he had
+been four years a prisoner at Plymouth; he complained of bad treatment,
+and abused both the English and England very liberally, saying that
+France was a much finer country. Poor fellow! in a prison-ship at
+Plymouth he had formed his opinion of England. He gave us some good
+hints about the price of provisions in this part of the country. Wine
+(the vin ordinaire) is here at six sous, or three-pence the bottle. I
+had been very much astonished (on ordering some wine for the soldiers in
+the morning), to find that I had only ten sous to pay for each bottle.
+
+The country through which we passed to-day is rather more interesting,
+with a considerable variety of hill and dale, wood and water, but the
+soil is still a miserable gravel. Both to-day and yesterday we observed
+that the fields on each side of the road were planted with clumsy cropt
+trees, somewhat like fruit-trees. We could not make out what these were
+until to-day, when we learnt that they were mulberry trees, and that
+this was a silk country. The trees are of the size of our orchard
+trees; their branches, under the thickness of an inch, are all lopped
+off, and from the wounds thus made, spring up the tender young branches
+which produce the leaves. The trees have a most unnatural appearance
+from this cause. Under these the fields here are ploughed for a most
+wretched crop of wheat. The ploughs miserably constructed, but with
+wheels.
+
+This part of the country abounds with mule, which are used in carriages,
+carts, waggons, ploughs, &c. These animals are of a remarkable size
+here. The roads, ever since we left Lyons, excepting where we met with a
+hundred or two hundred yards of pavement, have been uniformly bad.
+To-day, however, we made out about 33 miles between six and five
+o'clock. This town of Montelimart is celebrated for one manufacture
+only, viz. a sort of cake made of almonds and white sugar, called
+Nagaux. This article is sent from this place all over France!------
+Distance 33 miles--to Montelimart.
+
+* * *
+
+Our journey to-day (_Friday_ the 24th) though rather more rapid, was not
+by any means comfortable. The country hereabout has a great want of
+milk and butter;--not a cow to be seen. The soil is still to appearance
+wretchedly poor, yet it gives a rich produce, in grapes, figs, olives,
+and mulberry leaves, for the silk worms. The wine (vin ordinaire) sells
+here at six sous the bottle; it is poor in quality, yet by no means
+unpalatable. The roads continue as bad as ever, rather worse indeed, for
+the thin creamy mud has become thick doughy clay.
+
+We did not arrive at Orange till half past five, but were fortunate in
+finding a civil reception at the Palais Royal, the first inn on entering
+the town. We met with no adventures to-day of any kind. The language of
+the people has now become completely unintelligible; it is a Patois of
+the most horrible nature. Many of the better sort of people among the
+peasants, are able to speak French with you, but where they have only
+their own dialect, you are completely at a loss. I had conceived, that
+there would be no more difference between French and Patois, than
+between the better and the lower dialects of Scotch and English; but the
+very words are here changed: A carter asked the landlord with whom we
+were conversing, for a [8]"Peetso morcel du bosse,"--_"petit morceau du
+bois."_ The landlord, a respectable-looking man, gave us a good deal of
+news regarding the state of the country. He says, that the people in the
+south are all anxious for peace, and that those in France, who wish for
+war, are those who have nothing else to live on; that nobody with a
+house over his back, and a little money, desires to have war again.
+
+The people here seem to amuse themselves with a perpetual variety of
+reports. The story to-day is, that Alexander has declared his intention
+of sending 60,000 men to Poland, to take possession of that country for
+himself; and that Talleyrand would not hear of such a thing. The
+villages that we passed to-day have a greater appearance of desolation
+than any we have yet seen. Scarce a house which does not seem to be
+tumbling to pieces, and those which we were unlucky enough to enter,
+were as dirty and uncomfortable inside as they appeared without. On
+entering the town, or rather at a little distance from the town of
+Orange, we saw a beautiful triumphal arch, said to have been raised to
+commemorate the victories of Marius over the Cimbri. The evening was
+too gloomy for us to observe in what state of preservation the sculpture
+is now, but the architecture is very grand. To-morrow we breakfast at
+Avignon. But alas, the weather will not permit of our visiting
+Vaucluse.----Distance 39 miles--to Orange.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Orange at half past six. Our road to-day
+lay through the same species of country, to which we have been condemned
+for four days, producing vines, olives, and mulberries; the soil is to
+all appearance a most wretched one for corn--gravel and stones. The
+roads have, ever since our leaving Lyons, been very bad. After breakfast
+at Avignon, we proceeded to see the ruins of the church of Notre Dame.
+There are now remaining but very few vestiges of a church; the ground
+formerly enclosed by the church, is now formed into a fruit garden, and
+a country house has been built on the ruins. The owner of this house
+wishes to let it, and hearing that a friend of ours was in need of a
+house, he offered it to him for two hundred a-year. The house was such
+as one could procure near London for about L.80, and such as we ought to
+have in France for L.20. But the French do really think, that the
+English will give any sum they ask, and that every individual is a kind
+of animated bag of money.
+
+The owner of the house was, to appearance, a broken-down gentleman; he
+had been ordered to Marseilles by his physician for an affection of the
+lungs; yet he strongly recommended the climate of Avignon. For my own
+part, I think the situation is too low and windy to be healthy. The town
+is one of the cleanest we have seen, and there are some excellent houses
+in it; of the rent we could not well judge from the account of this
+gentleman. We went through his garden, and were by him shewn the spot
+under which the tomb of Laura is now situated. A small cypress tree had
+been planted by the owner of the garden to mark the spot. He had heard
+the story of Laura, and recollected many particulars of it; but still he
+had not been at the pains to have the spot cleared, and the tomb exposed
+to view. To any one who was acquainted with the story of Petrarch, or
+who had perused his impassioned effusions, the dilapidation of this
+church, and the barbarous concealment of Laura's tomb, were most
+mortifying circumstances. But, neither the memory of Laura, nor of the
+brave Crillon, whose tomb is also here, had any effect in averting the
+progress of the revolutionary barbarians. The tomb of Crillon is now
+only to be distinguished by the vestiges of some warlike embellishments
+in the wall opposite which it was situated. There is a large space now
+empty in the midst of these ornaments, from which a large marble slab
+had lately been taken out. On this slab, the owner of the garden said,
+an inscription, commemorating the virtues of Crillon, had been engraved.
+A small stone, with his arms very beautifully engraved, was shewn us in
+the garden. I could not leave the garden without stealing a branch from
+the cypress which shaded Laura's tomb.
+
+Through this garden runs the rivulet of Vaucluse. Its course is through
+the town of Avignon; where we remained for three hours, and then
+continued our journey; but the day was far advanced, and by the evening
+we only arrived at a wretched, little inn called Bonpas. We were here
+told that we could have no lodging. Luckily for us the moon was up, and
+very clear; we therefore pushed on for Orgon, which, although said in
+the post-book to be two posts and a half from Bonpas, we reached in
+about an hour and a half. On our arrival we were fortunate enough to
+find lodging; and had scarcely seated ourselves in our parlour, when the
+people told us, that last night the mail had been robbed, and both the
+postillion and conducteur killed on the spot,----Distance 42 miles--to
+Orgon.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, the 26th,--We left Orgon, as usual, at six o'clock, and
+travelled before breakfast to Font Royal, a distance of 11 miles. Here
+the unfortunate _conducteur_ of the mail was lying desperately wounded;
+the surgeon, however, expected him to live. The postmaster here was not
+well satisfied with the conduct of the soldiers or gens-d'armes who
+attended the mail. The robbers were only four in number, and the
+attendants, viz. the postillion, conducteur and gens-d'armes, he
+thought, ought to have been a match for them. The robbers were
+frightened off while searching for the money, and fled without taking
+any thing of consequence.
+
+It is a very bad arrangement which they have in France, of sending large
+sums of money in gold and silver by the mail; for it holds out a much
+stronger inducement than would otherwise be given to the robbers. The
+mail, in France, is a very heavy coach, and has only three horses. The
+roads to-day were worse than any we have yet passed; and the country,
+for the first part of our journey, is as dull and insipid as it is
+possible to conceive. The soil most wretched, but still producing great
+riches in olives, grapes, figs, and mulberries. The grapes are
+delightful, even now when almost out of season, and the wine made from
+them is very fine. Within a mile or two of Aix, (from the top of a steep
+descent over a very barren, and bleak hill), you are delighted with the
+most complete change in the scene: In a moment, an extensive valley,
+highly cultivated, opens on the view. It is divided into a beautiful
+variety of vineyards, wheat fields, gardens, plantations of olives and
+figs, and is enclosed by hedge-rows of almond and mulberry trees. Round
+the valley rise a succession of romantic hills, covered with woods, and
+forming a fine conclusion to the view. It was altogether an enchanting
+picture. If this is the case in winter, what must it be in summer? The
+town of Aix, situated in this valley, is, as far as we have seen, the
+cleanest, neatest, and most comfortable-looking town in France--we are
+as yet all delighted with it; but when we shall have seen it for a day
+or two, I shall be better able to give an account of it.----Distance 33
+miles--to Aix.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+RESIDENCE AT AIX, AND JOURNEY TO BOURDEAUX.
+
+
+MONDAY, the 27th.--Having been employed the whole day in searching for
+furnished lodgings, I had no time to ride about and see the town. I
+shall describe it afterwards.--I saw, however, a little of the manners
+of some ranks of French society.
+
+After this, I went into the best coffeehouse in the town here, and sat
+down to read the newspapers. I found in it people of all
+descriptions--several of a most unprepossessing appearance, and others
+really like gentlemen. One of the best dressed of these last, decorated
+with the white cockade and other insignia, and having several rings of
+precious stones on his fingers, a watch, with a beautiful assortment of
+seals and other trinkets, was playing at Polish drafts, with an officer,
+also apparently a gentleman. I entered into conversation with him; and
+was surprised at his almost immediately offering me his watch, trinkets,
+and rings for sale. Still I thought this might arise from French
+manners: I had not a doubt he was a gentleman.--How great was my
+surprise, when a gentleman from the other side of the room called him by
+name, and bid him bring a cup of coffee and a glass of liqueur--My
+friend was one of the waiters of the coffeehouse. Such is the mixture of
+French society--such is the effect of citizenship.
+
+Our landlord, Mr A----, keeps a retail shop for toys, perfumery,
+cutlery, and all manner of articles. I did not think that we had given
+him any encouragement on our fist arrival; but he is now become a pest
+to us: he honours us with his company at all hours, and comes and seats
+himself with our other acquaintances, of whatever rank they may be. I
+have been forced at last to be rude to him, in never asking him to sit
+down when any one is with us. _The physician shakes him by the hand--so
+does the banker_. When I had purchased my horse, our banker spoke to a
+little mean-looking body, a paper-maker, to buy some corn and hay for
+it. I was astonished when the banker ended his speech by an
+affectionate[9] "_Adieu, a revoir a souper_." I am told, however, that
+this mixture of ranks, and this condescension on the part of superiors,
+is only practised at times, and to serve a purpose; and that, although
+the nobleman will sit down in the kitchen of an inn, and converse
+familiarly with the servants there, and though he will sit down in a
+shop, and prattle with the Bourgeoise, yet he keeps his place most
+proudly in society, inviting and receiving only his equals and
+superiors. The familiarity of all ranks with their own servants is most
+disgusting; but, from their poverty, the higher classes must condescend.
+
+Yesterday evening, I had an interesting conversation with Mr L. B. an
+intelligent and well informed man, of good family, eminent in his
+profession, and high in the opinion of all the society here; he is a
+devoted royalist. Among other interesting anecdotes which he related, I
+can only recollect these:
+
+Bonaparte had got into some scrape at Toulon, where he was well known as
+a bad and troublesome character; he was arrested, and put under a guard
+commanded by a near relation of Mr L. B. Barras, then at the height of
+his power in Paris, not knowing what to do with some of his royalist
+enemies, sent for Bonaparte, and proposed to him to collect a body of
+troops, and to fire on the royalists. Jourdan, and many other officers
+were applied to, but refused so base an employment. Bonaparte willingly
+accepted it--acquitted himself to Barras's satisfaction, and Barras then
+offered him the command in Italy, provided he would marry his cast-off
+mistress, Madame Beauharnois. To this Bonaparte consented. Bonaparte's
+mother had been, about this time, turned out of the Marseilles Theatre,
+on account of her bad character; for it was well known, that she
+subsisted herself and one of her daughters on the beauty of her other
+daughter. Shortly after Bonaparte's appointment to the Italian army, the
+same magistrate (the Mayor of Marseilles), who had formerly turned out
+Madame Bonaparte, perceived her again seated in one of the front boxes;
+he went up to her, and turned her out. She immediately wrote to her son,
+and the poor mayor was dismissed. This anecdote is, I find, mentioned by
+Goldsmith, who refers, in proof of its truth, to the newspapers of the
+time, in which the conduct, and sentence of the mayor are fully
+discussed.
+
+Bonaparte, extremely dissipated himself, would yet often correct any
+propensities of that kind in his relations. Pauline, the Princess
+Borghese, had formed an attachment for a very handsome young Florentine;
+he was one night suddenly surprised by Bonaparte's emissaries, put into
+a carriage, and removed to a great distance, with orders not to return.
+
+One of Bonaparte's relations had formed an attachment to Junot, who was
+one of the handsomest men in France; Junot was immediately after sent to
+Portugal, and upon his defeats there, he was disgraced publicly by
+Bonaparte, and killed himself, it was believed, in a fit of despair.
+
+The Princess Borghese, though vain, fond of dress, of extravagance, and
+of pleasure of every sort, whether honest or otherwise, has yet a good
+heart. A cousin of Mr L. B.'s was ordered to join the Garde d'Honneur:
+One of the last and most cruel acts of Bonaparte, was the constitution
+of this corps, which was meant to receive the young men of noble or rich
+families. The mother and relations of this young man were inconsolable,
+and the sum of money which would have been required as a ransom, was
+more than they could give; for Bonaparte, well knowing that the better
+families would rather pay than allow of their sons serving in his guard,
+had made the price of ransom immense. In their distress, they applied to
+Mr L. B., who had been at one time of service to the Princess Borghese
+in his legal capacity, and he paid a visit to the Princess. She received
+him most kindly, but told him that Bonaparte strictly forbade her
+interfering in military matters; that she would willingly apply for the
+situation of a prefect for Mr L. B. but could be of no service to his
+relation. She was, however, at last prevailed on; she wrote most warmly
+to her friends, and in three or four days the young man was sent back to
+his happy family.
+
+The French here date Bonaparte's downfall from the time when he first
+determined on attacking the power of the Pope. They say that this attack
+and the Spanish War, were both contrary to the advice of Talleyrand. In
+a conversation which took place between the Emperor Alexander and
+Napoleon, Alexander represented his own power as superior to Napoleon's,
+because he had no Pope to, controul him; and Bonaparte then replied,
+that "he would shew him and the world that the Pope was nobody."
+
+Our conversation turned on the difference between the penal codes of
+France and England. The French code, as revised, and, in many parts,
+formed by Napoleon, is much more mild than ours. There are not more than
+twelve crimes for which the punishment is death. In England, according
+to Blackstone, there are 160 crimes punished by death; on these
+subjects, I shall afterwards write more fully when I haws received more
+information. Mr L. B. related a curious anecdote, from which the
+abolition of torture is said to have been determined.
+
+A judge, who had long represented the folly of this method of trial,
+without any success, had recourse to the following stratagem:--Be went
+into the stable at night, and having taken away two of his own horses,
+he had them removed to distance. In the morning his coachman came
+trembling to inform him of the theft. He immediately had him confined.
+He was put to the torture, and, unable to bear the agony, he said that
+he had stolen the horses. The judge immediately wrote to the King, and
+informed him, that he himself had removed the horses. The man was
+pardoned, and the judge settled a large pension on him. The subject of
+the torture was considered, and the result was its abolition.
+
+I found that the opinions as to some parts of their criminal
+jurisprudence in France, were the same as are entertained on the same
+subject in England. Mr L. B., who has had occasion professionally to
+attend many criminal trials, is of opinion, that in this country,
+terrible punishments ought to be avoided, or at least performed in
+private. It is generally thought, that the horror of these punishments
+deters the robber and murderer, and has a good effect on the multitude;
+but I am afraid, said Mr L. B., that the multitude compassionate the
+sufferer, and think the laws unjust: and experience shews, that
+punishments, however horrid, do not deter the _hardened_ criminal. My
+father, said he, filled the situation of judge in his native city. A
+very young man, son of his baker, was convicted before the court, and
+condemned to die, for robbery with murder. After sentence, my father
+visited him, and asked him how he had been led to commit such a crime?
+Since I was a child, said the boy, I have always been a thief. When at
+school, I stole from my school-fellows,--when brought home, I stole from
+my father and mother. I have long wished to rob on the high-way; the
+fear of death did not prevent me. The worst kind of death is the rack,
+but by going to see every execution, I have learnt to laugh even at the
+rack. When young, it alarmed me, but habit has done away its terrors.
+
+Mr L. B. is certainly a man of gentlemanly manners, and of much general
+information. He is received at Aix in the first society of the old
+nobility; and was, I afterwards found, reckoned a model of good
+breeding, and yet, (which, in the present condition of French manners,
+is by no means uncommon), I have frequently witnessed him, in general
+company, introducing topics, and employing expressions, which, in our
+country, would not have been tolerated for a moment, but must have been
+considered an outrage to the established forms of good breeding.
+
+The day after our conversation with Mr L. B. we received a visit from
+the daughter of a Scotch friend, who is married to one of the first
+counsellors here. We returned home with her to hear some music. We were
+received in a very neat and very handsomely furnished house. The mother
+and daughter appeared to us polite and elegant women. But I was
+astonished to observe, seated on a sofa near them, a young man, whose
+costume, contrasted with the ease and confidence of his manners, gave me
+no small surprise. He wore an old torn great coat, a Belcher
+handkerchief about his neck, a pair of, worn-out military trowsers,
+stockings which had once been white, and shoes down in the heel. What my
+astonishment to find this shabby looking object was a brother of the
+counsellor's, and a correct model of the morning costume of the French
+noblemen!
+
+From Mr L. B. I learnt, that the worst land in Provence, when well
+cultivated, produces only three for one. The common produce of tolerably
+good ground, is from five to seven for one. The greatest produce known
+in Provence is ten for one. But for this, the best soils are weeded, and
+plenty of manure used. Our banker's account of the soil here is more
+favourable; but I am doubtful whether he is a farmer. Mr L. B. has a
+farm, and superintends it himself.
+
+I had the good fortune to attend a trial, which had excited much
+interest here. In the conscription which immediately preceded the
+downfall of Bonaparte, it appears, that the most horrid acts of violence
+and tyranny had been committed. People of all ranks, and of all ages,
+had been forced at the point of the bayonet to join the army. Near
+Marseilles, the _gens-d'armes_, in one of the villages, after exercising
+all kinds of cruelty, had collected together a number of the peasantry,
+and were leading them to be butchered. The peasants, in Provence, are
+naturally bold and free. The party contrived to escape, and all but one
+man hid themselves in the woods. This poor fellow was conducted alone;
+his hands in irons. His comrades lay in wait for the party who were
+carrying him away, and in the attempt to deliver him, three of the
+gens-d'armes were killed. The unfortunate conscript was only released to
+die of his wounds. Three of his comrades were seized, and indicted to
+stand trial for the murder of the gens-d'armes.
+
+I judged this a most favourable opportunity of ascertaining the public
+feeling, and attended the trial accordingly. The court was a special
+one, for this is one of the subjects which Bonaparte did not trust to a
+jury. It was composed of five civil and three military members. The
+forms of proceeding were the same as I have fully noticed in a
+subsequent chapter,--the same minute interrogations were made to the
+unhappy prisoners--the same contest took place between these and the
+Judges. One was acquitted, and the other two found guilty of "_meurtre
+volontaire, mais sans premeditation_."--Voluntary, but unpremeditated
+murder. These two were condemned to labour for life, but a respite was
+granted, and an appeal made to the King in their behalf. I was not
+disappointed in the ebullitions of public feeling which many of the
+incidents of the trial called forth. Mr L. B. and another young advocate
+pleaded very well. They both touched, though rather slightly, on the
+state of the country; but it was left to Mr Ayeau, the most celebrated
+pleader in criminal trials, and a zealous royalist, to develope the real
+condition of France, at the time of this last conscription. His speech
+was short, but I think it was the most energetic, and the most eloquent
+I ever heard. He began in an extraordinary manner, which at once shewed
+the scope of his argument, and secured him the attention of every one
+present--"Gentlemen, if that pest of society, from whom it has pleased
+God to release us, was a usurper and a tyrant, it was lawful to resist
+him. If Louis the XVIII. was our legitimate prince, it was lawful to
+fight for him." He then shewed, in a most ingenious argument, that the
+prisoners at the bar had done no more than this. Some parts of his
+speech were exceedingly beautiful. He ended by saying, that "he dared
+the Judges to condemn to death those who would have died for "_Louis le
+desire_."--It is generally thought here, that they will all be
+pardoned.
+
+The situation of the town of Aix, and the scenery in the valley, is
+truly beautiful. It is now the middle of December, yet the air is even
+warmer, I think, than with us in summer. We sit with open windows, and
+when we walk, the heat of the sun is even oppressive. The flowers in the
+little gardens in the valley are in full bloom; and the other day we
+found the blue scented violet, and observed the strawberries in blossom.
+The fields are quite green, and the woods still retain their variegated
+foliage. When the mistral (a species of north-west wind, peculiar to
+this climate), blows, it is certainly cold; but since our arrival, we
+have only twice experienced this chilling interruption to the general
+beauty and serenity of our weather. The scenery in the interior of the
+hills which surround the valley, is very romantic; and the little grassy
+paths which lead through them, are so dry, that our party have had
+several delightful expeditions into the hills. Many of our French
+friends, although probably themselves no admirers of the country,
+profess themselves so fond of English society, that they insist upon
+accompanying us; and it is curious to witness the artificial French
+manners, and the noisy volubility of French, tongues introduced into
+those retired and beautiful scenes, which, in our own country, we
+associate with the simplicity and innocence of rural life.
+
+Amidst these peaceful and amusing occupations, the easy tenor of our
+lives gliding on from day to day, interrupted by no variety of event,
+except the entertaining differences occasioned by foreign manners and a
+foreign country; we were surprised one morning by the entrance of our
+landlord, who came into our parlour with a face full of anxiety, and
+informed us, that Napoleon had landed at Cannes from Elba, and had
+already, with five hundred men, succeeded in reaching Grace. Mr L. B.
+soon came in and confirmed the report. Although certainly considerably
+alarmed at this event, especially as the greater portion of our party
+was composed of ladies, I could not help feeling, that we were fortunate
+in having an opportunity thus offered of ascertaining the state of
+public opinion, and the true nature of the political sentiments of that
+part of the country in which we are at present residing; for we are here
+at Aix, within twenty-five miles of the small town where Napoleon has
+landed.
+
+I shall first detail the circumstances under which this singular event
+took place; afterwards attempt to give some idea of the effects
+produced by it on the multitude. On the 1st of March 1815, Napoleon
+landed near Cannes, in the gulf of Juan. His first step was, to dispatch
+his Aide-de-Camp, Casabianca, with another officer and 25 men, to ask
+admittance into the Fort of Antibes; admitted into the Fort, they
+demanded its surrender to Bonaparte. The Governor paraded his garrison,
+and having made them swear allegiance to their Sovereign, he secured the
+rebels. Casabianca leaped from the wall and broke his back. In the
+meantime, Napoleon, finding his first scheme fail, marched straight to
+Grace, with between 700 and 800 men. He there encamped with his small
+force on the plain before the town, and summoned the mayor to furnish
+rations for his men; to which the mayor replied; that he acknowledged no
+orders from any authority except Louis XVIII. This conduct was the more
+worthy of praise, as the poor mayor had not a soldier to support him.
+The Emperor then attempted to have printed a proclamation in writing,
+signed by him, and counter-signed by General Bertrand, in which, among
+other rhodomontades, he tells the good people of France, that he comes
+at the call of the French nation, who, he knew, could not suffer
+themselves to be ruled by the Prince Regent of England, in the person of
+Louis XVIII.--The printer refused to print it. Napoleon proceeded from
+Grace to Digne, from Digne to Sisteron, and from Sisteron to Gap, where
+he slept on the 6th of March. In all the villages, he endeavoured,
+apparently without success, to inflame the minds of the people, and
+strengthen, by recruits, his small body of troops. He has, as yet, got
+no one to join him; but, on the other hand, he has met with no
+resistance. This day, the 8th, he must meet with three thousand men,
+commanded by General Marchand. It is thought, that if these prove true
+to their allegiance, he will make good his way to Lyons; but if, on the
+contrary, they oppose him, he is ruined. The commotion excited in Aix,
+by this news, is not to be conceived. The hatred and detestation in
+which Bonaparte is held here, becomes, I think, more apparent as the
+danger is more imminent. With a very few exceptions, all ranks of people
+express these sentiments. The national guard were immediately under
+arms, and entreated their commanding officer and the civil authorities,
+to permit them to go in pursuit of the ex-Emperor. Unfortunately the
+chiefs were not well agreed on the measures which ought to be adopted.
+From the excessive _sang froid_ with which Massena conducted himself, I
+should not be surprised if there were some truth in the report which was
+current here, that he had intelligence of the whole scheme, and kept
+back, in order that he might join Bonaparte. The first and second day,
+nothing was done; on the 3d, the 83d regiment was dispatched in pursuit
+from Marseilles. I accompanied them for four miles, during which, they
+had made two short halts. I had an opportunity of talking with a number
+of the men: they were certainly liberal in their abuse of the
+ex-Emperor; but several of them remarked, that it _was a hard thing to
+make them fight against each other_. The French here are all of opinion,
+that the troops of the line are not to be trusted. Like all other
+soldiers, they long for war, and as they would be more likely to have
+war Under Napoleon, than under Louis XVIII. I have little doubt they
+would join him. On the first news, the whole society of Aix were in the
+deepest affliction--the men agitated and disturbed--the women and
+children weeping. Each hour these feelings changed, for every hour there
+was some new report. The French believe every thing, and though each
+report belied the other, I saw no difference in the credit attached to
+them. There is no newspaper published in Aix, and the prefect, who is a
+person much suspected, has taken no steps to give the public correct
+information, but allows them to grope, in the dark; they have invented
+accordingly the most ridiculous stories, converting hundreds into
+thousands, and a few fishing boats and other small craft, into first a
+squadron of Neapolitans, and then a fleet of English ships. This report
+of the English ships is, I am sorry to say, still current, and the
+English are looked on with an evil eye by the lower orders. Even among
+our more liberal friends, there were some who asked me, what interest
+the English could have in letting him escape? After some cool reasoning,
+however, they acknowledged the folly of this story. The King is
+universally blamed for employing, in the most responsible situations,
+the Generals attached to Napoleon. The populace declare, that Soult, the
+Minister of War, is at the bottom of this attempt. Now, that one can
+reason on the matter, and that the impression of the magnanimity which
+dictated the conduct of the allied Powers to Napoleon, is somewhat
+diminished, it must be allowed, that there is some sense in the remark,
+that it was folly to dismiss him to Elba, with all the appointment,
+"pomp, and circumstance" of a little Sovereign, instead of confining him
+in a prison, or leaving him no head to plan mischief. The people affirm
+here, that this was done purposely by the English, to keep France in
+continual trouble.
+
+_15th_.--All possibility of continuing this little Journal is precluded
+by the alarming progress of Napoleon, and the consequent necessity of
+taking immediate steps for our departure from this country. The
+ex-Emperor is every day making rapid strides to the capital; and we have
+to-day intelligence that it is believed the troops in Lyons are
+disaffected. I have now given up all hope, for I see plainly that every
+thing is arranged--not a blow has been struck. The soldiers have every
+where joined him, and there cannot be a doubt that he will reign in
+France. He may not, indeed, reign long; for it is to be hoped that the
+English will not shut their eyes, or be deceived by the fabricated
+reports of the journals--It is to be hoped that the allied Powers are
+better acquainted with the character of Napoleon than the too-good Louis
+XVIII. In the mean time, it is high time for us to be off; and I think
+we shall take the route of Bourdeaux. This unfortunate town (Aix), is
+now a melancholy spectacle; for all the thinking part believe that the
+cause of the Bourbons is lost. Our poor landlord, a violent royalist,
+has just been with us. He affirms that he could have predicted all this;
+for when he sold the white cockades to the military, they often said,
+[10]"Eh bien; c'est bon pour le moment, mais cela ne durera pas long
+temps."--Poor man, he is in perfect agony, and his wife weeps all day
+long. If all the people of France thought as well as those at Aix,
+Napoleon would have little chance of success; but alas, I am much afraid
+he will find more friends than enemies.
+
+The whole town is still in the greatest confusion. The national guard,
+amongst whom were many of our friends, were not allowed to march till
+the seventh day after the landing of Napoleon. By day-break, we were
+awoke by the music of the military bands, and saw, from the windows, the
+different companies, headed by their officers, many of whose faces were
+familiar to us, march out, seemingly in great spirits. It was a
+melancholy sight to us. There was something in our own situation; placed
+in a country already involved in civil commotion, finding our poor
+French friends, whose life seemed before this to be nothing but one
+continued scene of amusement, now weeping for the loss of their sons and
+husbands and brothers, who had marched to intercept Napoleon, and
+involved in uncomfortable uncertainty as to our future plans, which for
+some time made every thing appear gloomy and distressing. The interval
+between the 8th and the 12th has been occupied by a constant succession
+of favourable and unfavourable reports; gloomy conjectures and fearful
+forebodings, have, however, with most people here, formed the prevailing
+tone of public opinion. The report which was, a few days ago, circulated
+here, that the escape of the ex-Emperor was a premeditated plan,
+invented and executed by the English, gains ground every day. It is
+completely credited by the lower classes here; and such is the enmity
+against the English, that we are now obliged to give up our country
+walks, rather than encounter the menacing looks and insulting speeches
+of the lower orders. To-day is the 8th, and we are in a state of the
+most extreme anxiety, waiting for the arrival of a courier. In this
+unfortunate country, owing to the imperfection of the system of posts,
+public news travel very slowly; and in proportion to the scarcity of
+accurate information, is the perplexing variety of unfounded reports.
+The prefect of Aix has just been here to tell us that as yet there
+appears to be nothing decided; but that upon the whole, things look
+favourably for the Bourbons. Bonaparte, he informs us, slept at Gape on
+Sunday, and dispatched from that town three couriers with different
+proclamations. Not a man joined him, and it is said he left Gape enraged
+by the coolness of his reception. In the course of the day, another mail
+from Gape has arrived, but still brings no intelligence, which looks as
+if this unfortunate business would be speedily decided. Monsieur has
+arrived at Lyons, and intends, we hear, to proceed to Grenoble. Last
+night it was quite impossible for us to sleep. The crowds in the
+streets, and the confusion of the mob who parade all night, expecting
+the arrival of a new courier, creates a continual uproar. During the
+night, we heard our poor landlady weeping; and we found out next morning
+that her husband had been called off in the night to join the national
+guard, which had marched in pursuit of the ex-Emperor.
+
+_Friday_, the 10th.--Still no decisive intelligence has arrived. Every
+thing, it is said, looks well, but there is a mystery and stillness
+about the town to-day which alarms us.
+
+_Saturday_, the 11th.--We have this day received from Mr L. B., who
+marched with the national guard, a very interesting letter from
+Sisteron. The crisis, which will determine the result of this last
+daring adventure of the ex-Emperor, seems to be fast approaching. Our
+friend tells us all as yet looks well. Bonaparte is surrounded and
+hemmed in to the space of two leagues by troops marching from all sides.
+These, however, how strong soever they may be, appear to maintain a
+suspicious kind of inaction, and he continues his progress towards
+Grenoble. Every thing depends on the conduct of the troops there, under
+General Marchand. Their force is such, that if they continue firm, his
+project is ruined. On the contrary, if their allegiance to the Bourbons
+is but pretended, and if their attachment to their old commander should
+revive, it is to be dreaded that this impulse will have an irresistible
+effect upon the troops; and if Marchand's division joins him, all is
+irretrievably lost: He will be at the head of a force sufficient to
+enable him to dictate terms to Lyons, and the pernicious example of so
+great a body of troops will poison the allegiance of the rest of the
+army.
+
+_Sunday_, the 12th.--Our fears have been prophetic. We have heard again
+from Mr L. B. This letter is most melancholy; Marchand's corps have
+joined the ex-Emperor, and he is on his march to Lyons, the second town
+in the kingdom, with a force every day increasing. It is absolutely
+necessary now to form some decided plan for leaving this devoted
+country. Whether it will be better to embark from Marseilles or to
+travel across the country to Bourdeaux, is the question upon which we
+have not yet sufficient information to decide. We expect to hear
+to-morrow of an engagement between the troops commanded by the Prince
+D'Artois at Lyons, and the force which has joined Napoleon. Every moment
+which we now remain in this kingdom is time foolishly thrown away.
+Bonaparte may have friends in the sea-port towns; the organization of
+this last scheme may be, and indeed every hour proves, that it has been
+deeper than we at first imagined, and the possibility of escape may in a
+moment be entirely precluded.
+
+_Monday_, the 13th.--This has been a day of much agitation; a courier
+has arrived, and the intelligence he brings is as bad as possible. Every
+thing is lost. The Count d'Artois harangued his troops, and the answer
+they made, was a universal shout of _Vive l'Empereur_. The Prince has
+been obliged to return to Paris; Bonaparte has entered Lyons without the
+slightest opposition, and is now on his march to the capital. We have
+just been informed, that the Duc d'Angouleme is expected here this
+evening or to-morrow. The guarde nationale has been paraded upon the
+_Cours_, and a proclamation, exhorting them to continue faithful to the
+King, read aloud to the soldiers. We hear them rapturously shouting Vive
+le Roi; and they are now marching through the streets to the national
+air of Henrie Quatre. Every house has displayed the white flag from its
+windows.
+
+_Thursday_, the 16th.--We have determined now to run the risk of
+travelling across the country to Bourdeaux, trusting to embark from that
+town for England. I have visited Marseilles, and find that there are no
+vessels in that port; and in the present uncertain state of Italy, it
+would be hazardous attempting to reach Nice. Bonaparte, we hear, is near
+Paris, and is expected to enter that capital without opposition; but we
+now receive no intelligence whose accuracy can be relied on, as the
+couriers have been stopt, and all regular intercourse discontinued. The
+preparations, for the arrival of the Duc d'Angouleme, continued till
+this morning; and in the evening we witnessed his entry into Aix: It was
+an affecting sight. At the gate of the town, he got out of his carriage,
+mounted on horseback, and rode twice along the Cours, followed by his
+suite. The common people, who were assembled on each side of the street,
+shouted Vive le Roi, Vivent les Bourbons, apparently with enthusiasm.
+The attention of the Duke seemed to be chiefly directed to the regiments
+of the line, which were drawn up on the Cours. As he rode along, he
+leant down and seemed to speak familiarly to the common soldiers; but
+the troops remained sullen and silent. No cries of loyalty were heard
+amongst them--not a single murmur of applause. They did not even salute
+the Duke as he past, but continued perfectly still and silent. In the
+midst of this, we could hear the sobs of the women in the crowd, and of
+the ladies, who waved their handkerchiefs from the windows. As he came
+near the balcony where we and our English friends were assembled, we
+strained our voices with repeated cries of Vive le Roi. He heard us,
+looked up, and bowed; and afterwards, with that grateful politeness, the
+characteristic of the older school of French manners, he sent one of his
+attendants to say, that he had distinguished the English, and felt
+flattered by the interest they took in his affairs. Although it was
+positively asserted by our French friends here, that Marseilles was in
+the greatest confusion; and that on account of the prevalence of the
+report of the English having favoured the escape of Bonaparte, all our
+countrymen were liable to be insulted; I yet found the town perfectly
+tranquil. Massena, I heard, had sent for some troops from Toulon; and
+the 3000 national guards employ themselves night and day, in shouting
+_Vive le Roi_. We shall leave Aix to-morrow morning, taking the route to
+Bourdeaux.
+
+_Friday_, the 17th of April.--Our leaving Aix this morning was really
+melancholy. French friends, hearing of our approaching departure,
+flocked in to bid us farewell. They were in miserably low spirits,
+deploring the state of their unhappy country, weeping over the fate of
+their sons and husbands, who had marched with the national guard in
+pursuit of the ex-Emperor; and full of fears as to the calamities this
+might bring upon them. You are happy English, said they, and are
+returning to a loyal and secure country, and you leave us exposed to all
+the calamities of a civil war.
+
+After a long day's journey, we have at last arrived at Orgon, at seven
+in the evening. There has been little travelling on the road to-day. The
+country has nearly the same aspect as in November last. The only
+difference is, that the almond trees are in full blossom, and some few
+other trees, such as willows, &c. in leaf; the wheat is about half a
+foot to a foot high: The day was delightfully mild; and as we drove
+along, we met numberless groups of peasants who lined the road, and were
+anxiously waiting for their Prince passing by. The road was strewed with
+lilies, and the young girls had their laps filled with flowers as we
+passed. As we past, they knew us to be English, and shouted Vive le Roi.
+
+We are now in Languedoc, but as yet I cannot say that it equals, or at
+all justifies Mrs Radcliffe's description: Flat and insipid plains of
+_vignoble_ or wheat. However, there is here, as every where in France,
+no want of cultivation. Napoleon had commenced, and nearly finished, a
+very fine quay and buttresses between the two bridges of boats. That man
+had always grand, though seldom good views. The walls of the inn here
+were covered with a mixture of "Vive le Roi!" and "Vive Napoleon!" this
+last mostly scratched out. National guards in every town demanded our
+passport. These men and the gens-d'armes are running about in every
+direction. No courier from Paris arrived here these three days. This
+looks ill. The houses are better in appearance than in Provence. The
+country very productive: Potatoes the finest I have seen in
+France.----Distance 34 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 19th.--We left Nismes at six o'clock this morning, and
+breakfasted at Lunel, where they appear to be full of loyalty. It was a
+subject to us of much regret, that more time was not allowed us to
+examine a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, half of which is nearly
+entire, although the remaining part is quite ruinous. The troops in the
+town were drawn up on the parade, expecting the Duke d'Angouleme. We
+received a small printed paper from an officer on the road, containing
+the information last received from Paris, which secured us a good
+reception at the inn. The people were delighted to procure a piece of
+authentic intelligence, (a thing they seldom have); they flocked round
+us, and upon their entreaty, I gave them the paper to carry to the
+caffee. In the inn we found a number of recruits for the army forming by
+the Duke d'Angouleme; it is said that he has already collected at Nismes
+nineteen hundred men, all volunteers. The country does not improve in
+romantic beauty as we advance in Languedoc; but what is better, the
+cultivation is very superior; large fields of fine wheat. There seems to
+be all over the south the same want of horned cattle; horses also are
+very scarce and very bad:--milk never to be had unless very early, and
+then in small quantity. No land wasted here. All the houses about
+Montpellier are better than near Aix, and we even saw some neat country
+seats, a circumstance almost unknown in all the parts of France where we
+have hitherto been. The olive trees are here much larger and finer than
+in Provence; but the country, although covered with olives, vines, and
+wheat, is flat, ugly, and insipid. The instruments of agriculture are
+even inferior to those in Provence, which last are at least a century
+behind England. The plough here is as rude as in Bengal, and is formed
+of a crooked branch of a tree shod with iron. As we approached near
+Montpellier, the appearance of the country began to display more
+beautiful features. The ground is more varied, the fields and meadows of
+a richer green, a distant range of hills closes in the view, and the
+olive groves are composed of larger and more luxuriant trees. Nearer to
+the town, the country is divided into small nursery gardens, which,
+although inferior to those in the environs of London, give an unusual
+richness to the landscape. We arrived at Montpellier at six o'clock, and
+from the crowd in the town, found much difficulty in procuring an hotel.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, 20th April.--We have better news to-day; letters from the Duke
+d'Angouleme announce that the whole conspiracy has been discovered, and
+that Soult (Ministre de Guerre) and several other generals have been
+arrested. In consequence of which, it is expected that the plans of the
+conspirators will be in a great measure defeated. The French change in a
+moment from the extreme of grief to the opposite, that of the most
+extravagant joy. To-day they are in the highest spirits;--but things
+still look very ill. No courier from Paris for these last four days. The
+ex-Emperor still marching uninterruptedly towards that city, yet no one
+can conceive that he will succeed, now that the King's eyes are
+open;--his clemency alone has occasioned all this--he would not consent
+to remove the declared friends of Napoleon.
+
+We passed this day at Montpellier; but were prevented by the intense
+heat of the sun from seeing as much of the environs as we could have
+wished. The town is old and the streets shabby; but the Peyroue is one
+of the most magnificent things I ever saw. It is a superb platform,
+which forms the termination of the Grand Aqueduct built by Louis XIV.
+and commands a magnificent extent of country. In front, the view is
+terminated by a long and level line of the Mediterranean. To the
+south-west the horizon is formed by the ridge of the Pyrenees; while, to
+the north, the view is closed in by the distant, yet magnificent summits
+of the Alps. Immediately below these extends, almost to the border of
+the Mediterranean, a beautiful _paysage_, spotted with innumerable
+country seats, which, seen at a distance, have the same air of neatness
+and comfort as those in England. At the end of this fine platform, is a
+Grecian temple, inclosing a basin, which receives the large body of
+water conveyed by the aqueduct, and which empties itself again into a
+wide basin with a bottom of golden-coloured sand. The limpid clearness
+of the water is beyond all description. The air, blowing over the basin
+from a plain of wheat and olives (evergreens in this climate), has a
+charming freshness. The Esplanade here is also a fine promenade,
+although the view which it commands is not so fine as that from the
+Peyroue. The manufactures of Montpellier are, verdigris, blankets and
+handkerchiefs; little trade going on. The climate is delightful, though
+now too warm for my taste. Every thing is much farther advanced here
+than at Aix. They have some very pretty gardens here, though nothing
+equal to what we see every day in England. The botanical garden is very
+small. We start to-morrow at six for Beziers, where we expect to find
+water carriage to Toulouse.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, 21st April.--We left Montpellier at five in the morning, and
+although the country round the town is certainly more beautiful than the
+greater part of Languedoc we have yet seen, it in a short time became
+very uninteresting; an extended plain, covered with uninclosed fields of
+wheat, and occasionally a plantation of olives. Before reaching Maize, a
+small town situated within a mile of the shore of the Mediterranean, we
+passed through a fine forest, the only considerable one we have seen in
+Languedoc. The road winded along the shore; the day was delightful, and
+as warm as with us in July; and the waters of the Mediterranean lay in a
+perfect calm, clear and still, and beautiful, under the light of a
+glorious sun. The general appearance of the country is certainly not
+beautiful. It improves much upon coming near Pezenas, where the fields
+are divided into green meadows, and interspersed with little gardens, in
+which, although it is now only April, the fruit trees are in full
+blossom, and giving to the view an uncommon beauty. The blossom of the
+pears, peach, and apple-trees, is, I think, richer than I ever saw in
+England. The season is not only much more advanced here than at Aix, but
+the warmth and mildness of the climate gives to the fields and flowers a
+more than common luxuriancy. Many of the meadows are thickly sown with
+the white narcissus, and the hedges, which form their inclosures, are
+covered with the deepest verdure, which is finely contrasted with the
+pink-flowers of the almond trees, rising at intervals in the hedge-rows.
+The wheat round Montpellier was now, in the middle of April, in the ear.
+We set off to-morrow at half-past five, in order to get into the _coches
+d'eau_ at Beziers before 12 (the hour of starting). Hitherto we have
+proceeded without the slightest molestation. The English, I am now
+thoroughly convinced, are not popular amongst the lower orders; but as
+we are the couriers of good news, we are at present well received. Could
+it be believed by an Englishman, that we, who travel at the miserable
+rate of 30 miles a-day, _should be the first to spread the news wherever
+we go_. The reason is, that we get the authentic news through our
+friends and bankers, and circulate it in the inns, instead of the
+ridiculous stories invented by those groping in ignorance. The feelings
+of the people seem excellent every where; the troops alone maintain a
+gloomy silence. The country, from Montpellier, is the same as hitherto,
+flat and insipid: but the crops are much farther advanced than in
+Provence. We had some fine peeps at the Mediterranean this morning. The
+town of Pezenas is prettily situated, and is surrounded by numbers of
+beautiful gardens, though on a small scale. All the fruit trees are here
+in blossom: Green peas a foot and a half high. The ploughs in this part
+of the country are more antiquated than any I have seen. The ploughing
+is very shallow; but nature does all in France.----Distance about 34
+miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_, 22d.--Left Pezenas at half past five, and arrived to
+breakfast at half past nine at Beziers. We went to see the _coches
+d'eau_, described as _superbes_ and _magnifiques_ by our French friends.
+Their ideas differ from ours. It would be perfectly impossible for an
+English lady to go in such a conveyance; and few gentlemen, even if
+alone, would have the boldness to venture. The objections are: there is
+but one room for all classes of people; they start at three and four
+each morning; stop at miserable inns, and if you have heavy baggage, it
+must be shifted at the locks, which is tedious and expensive. Adieu to
+all our airy dreams of gliding through Languedoc in these _Cleopatrian
+vessels_. They are infested with an astonishing variety of smells; they
+are exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather; and they are filled
+with bugs, fleas, and all kinds of bad company. The country to-day,
+though still very flat, is much improved in beauty. Very fine large
+meadows, bordered with willows, but too regular. Bullocks as common as
+mules in the plough. Wheat far advanced, and barley, in some small
+spots, in the ear. I learnt some curious particulars, if they can be
+depended upon, concerning this conspiracy of Bonaparte from a Spanish
+officer, who had taken a place in our cabriolet. He says, that one of
+the chief means he has employed to create division in France, and to
+make himself beloved, has been by carrying on a secret correspondence
+with the Protestants, and persuading them that he will support them
+against the Catholics; and by representing the King as wishing to
+oppress them. To the army he has promised, that he will lead them again
+against the allied Powers, who have triumphantly said they have
+conquered them; this is a tender point with the French: At the present
+time, when the troops are deserting their King, and flying to the
+standard of the usurper, still even the most loyal among the people
+cannot bear the idea that the allies should assist in opposing him.
+
+We have continued with our coachman, and carry him on to Toulouse. He is
+an excellent fellow, has a good berlin, with large cabriolet before, and
+three of the finest mules I ever saw. He takes us at a round pace, from
+15 to 20 miles before breakfast, and the rest after it, making up always
+30 miles a-day. The pay for this equipage per mile is not much above a
+franc and a half. We have found it the most comfortable way of
+travelling for so large a party. He carries all our baggage, amounting
+to more than 400 pounds, without any additional expence. The country
+between Pezenas and Beziers, and between Beziers and Narbonne, is richer
+and more beautiful than any part of Languedoc which we have yet seen. It
+is divided into fields of wheat, which is now in the ear, divisions of
+green clover grass, meadows enclosed with rows of willows, and orchards
+scattered around the little villages. These orchards, which are now all
+in blossom, increase in number as you approach the town of Narbonne. We
+have enjoyed to-day another noble view of the distant summits of the
+Pyrenees, towering into the clouds.----Distance, 34 miles--to Narbonne.
+
+* * *
+
+_Thursday, 23d._--We left Narbonne at half past five, and have travelled
+to-day, through a country more ugly and insipid than any in the south;
+barren hills, low swampy meadows, and dirty villages. There is a total
+want of peasants houses on the lands; but still a very general
+cultivation. Ploughs, harrows, and other instruments, a century behind.
+Fewer vines now, and more wheat. At Moux, one of the police officers
+read out a number of proclamations, sent by the prefect of the
+department, exciting the people to exertions in repelling the usurper.
+The cries of "Vive le Roi" were so faint, that the officer harangued the
+multitude on their want of proper feeling. He did not, however, gain any
+thing. One of the mob cried out, that they were not to be forced to cry
+out "Vive le Roi." Wherever we have gone, I have heard from all ranks
+that the English have supported Bonaparte, and that they are the
+instigators of the civil war. In vain I have argued, that if it were our
+policy to have war with France, why should we have restored the
+Bourbons? Why made peace? Why wasted men and money in Spain? It is all
+in vain--they are inveterately obstinate.----Distance 39 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday, 24th._--We left Carcassone at seven, as we have but a short
+journey to-day. Arrived at Castelnaudry at half past five, and found the
+inn crowded with gentlemen volunteers for the cavalry. The volunteers
+are fine smart young men, and all well mounted. Their horses very
+superior to the cavalry horses in general. We passed a cavalry regiment
+of the line this morning, the 15th dragoons. Horses miserable little
+long-tailed Highland-like ponies, but seemingly very active. The whole
+country through which we have travelled since the commencement of our
+journey in France, is sadly deficient in cattle. We meet with none of
+these groupes of fine horses and cows, which delight us in looking over
+the country in England, in almost every field you pass. This want is
+more particularly remarkable in the south. The country to-day is the
+same; a total want of trees, and of variety of scenery of any kind. No
+peasants houses to be seen scattered over the face of the country; the
+peasantry all crowd into the villages.--Yet there is no want of
+cultivation. The situation of the lower classes is yet extremely
+comfortable. The girls are handsome, and always well drest. The men
+strong and healthy. The young women wear little caps trimmed with lace,
+and the men broad-brimmed picturesque-looking hats: both have shoes and
+stockings. The parish churches in this part of France are in a miserable
+condition. It is no longer here, as in England, that the churches and
+_Cures'_ houses are distinguished by their neatness. Here, the churches
+are fallen into ruins; the windows soiled, and covered with cobwebs. The
+order of the priesthood, from what I have seen, are, I should conceive,
+little respected.----Distance 29 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Saturday_, the 25th.--We left Castelnaudry at five o'clock, and have
+travelled to-day through a country, which, from Castelnaudry to
+Toulouse, is uniformly flat and bare, and uninteresting. We were
+surprised to-day by meeting on the road a party of English friends, who
+had set out for Bourdeaux, returning by the same road. They informed us,
+they had heard by private letters, that Bonaparte was at the gates of
+Paris, on which account they had returned, and were determined to pass
+into Spain. They told us, that the roads were covered by parties of
+English flying in every direction; and that all the vessels at Bourdeaux
+were said to have already sailed for England. It was, however,
+impossible for us now to turn back; and we continued our route to
+Bourdeaux with very uncomfortable feelings, anxious lest every moment
+should confirm the bad news, and put a stop to our progress to the
+coast, or that, when we arrived, we should find the sea-ports under an
+embargo. Near Toulouse, are seen a few country seats, which relieve the
+eye; but the town is old and ugly, and situated, to all appearance, in a
+swampy flat. We shall see more of it to-morrow. The road from
+Castelnaudry to this is very bad, the worst we have seen yet in the
+south of France; it has been paved, but is much broken up.----Distance
+41 miles.
+
+* * *
+
+_Sunday_, 26th.--It has become necessary now to change all our plans of
+travelling. Upon visiting our banker this morning, I received from him a
+full confirmation of the bad news--Napoleon is in Paris, and again
+seated on the throne of France. Our banker has procured for us, and
+another party, forming in all 29 English, a small common country boat,
+covered over only with a sail. In this miserable conveyance we embarked
+this afternoon at two, and arrived the first night at Maste. Our passage
+down the Garonne is most rapid, and as the weather is delightful, the
+conveyance is pleasant enough; but our minds are in such a state we
+cannot enjoy any thing. To-morrow I shall continue more connectedly.
+
+* * *
+
+_Monday_, the 27th.--We are now gliding down the Garonne with the utmost
+rapidity and steadiness. The scene before us presents the most perfect
+tranquillity. The weather which we now enjoy is heavenly,--the air soft
+and warm,--and the sun shedding an unclouded radiance upon the glassy
+waters of the Garonne, in whose bosom the romantic scenery through which
+we pass, is reflected in the most perfect beauty. On each side, are the
+most lovely banks covered with hanging orchards, whose trees, in full
+blossom, reach to the brink of the river. We have passed several small
+villages very beautifully situated; and where we have not met with
+these, the country is more generally scattered with the cottages of the
+peasantry, which are seen at intervals, peeping through the woods which
+cover the banks. As our boat passes, the villagers flock from their
+doors, and place themselves in groups on the rocks which overhang the
+river, or crowd into the little meadows which are interspersed between
+the orchards and the gardens. At the moment in which I now write, the
+sun is setting upon a scene so perfectly still and beautiful, that it is
+impossible to believe we are now in the devoted country, experiencing,
+at this very hour, a terrible revolution; the most disastrous political
+convulsion, perhaps, which it has ever yet undergone. In former times,
+the changes from the tranquillity it enjoyed under a monarchial
+government, to the chaos of republicanism, and from that to the sullen
+stagnation of a firm-rooted military despotism, were gradual; they were
+the work of time. But the unbounded ambition of Bonaparte, after a
+series of years, had brought on his downfall, by a natural course of
+events, and France had begun to taste and to relish the blessings of
+peace. On a sudden, that fallen Colossus is raised again, and its dark
+shadow has over-spread the brightening horizon. Could it be credited,
+that within one short month, that man whom we conceived detested in
+France, should have journeyed from one extremity of that kingdom to
+another, without meeting with the slightest resistance? I say journeyed,
+for he had but a handful of men, whom, at almost every town, he left
+behind him, and he proceeded on horseback, or in his carriage, with much
+less precaution than at any former period of his life. France has now
+nothing to hope, but from the heavy struggle that will, I trust,
+immediately take place between her and the allied powers. It will be a
+terrible, but, I trust, short struggle, if the measures are prompt: but
+if he is allowed time to levy a new conscription; if even he has
+sufficient time to collect the hordes of disbanded robbers whom his
+abdication let loose in France, he possesses the same means of
+conducting a long war that he ever possessed. The idea so current in
+France, that this event will only occasion a civil war, is unworthy of a
+moment's attention. Every inhabitant in every town he passed, was said
+to be against him. We heard of nothing but the devoted loyalty of the
+national guards; but at Grenoble, at Lyons, and at Paris, was there
+found a man to discharge his musket? No! against a small number of
+regular and veteran troops, no French militia, no volunteers will ever
+fight, or if they do, it will be but for a moment; each city will yield
+in its turn.
+
+The country is improving; the banks, in many places, are beautiful; for
+some days past we have been in the country of wheat, but now we are
+again arrived among the vines. Very little commerce on this river,
+although celebrated as possessing more than any one in France. It
+reminds me of the state of commerce in India,--boats gliding down
+rapidly with the stream, and toiling up in tracking. The shape, also, of
+the boats is the same. We have this moment passed a boat full of
+English, and the sailors have shouted out, that the white flag is no
+longer flying at Bourdeaux. If the town has declared for the ex-Emperor,
+I dread to think of our fate.
+
+* * *
+
+_Tuesday_, the 28th.--This morning, at three, I left my party, and took
+a very light gig, determined (as the news were getting daily worse, and
+the road full of English hurrying to Bourdeaux), to post it from Agen. I
+was attended by a friend. By paying the post-boys double hires, we got
+on very fast, and although, from their advanced age and infirmities, the
+generality of French conveyances will not suffer themselves to be
+hurried beyond their ordinary pace, this was no time to make any such
+allowances. We accordingly hurried on, and after having broke down four
+times, we arrived at Bourdeaux at six in the evening, a distance of more
+than a hundred miles; and were delighted to see the white flag still
+displayed from all the public buildings. The country from Agen to
+Bourdeaux is the richest I have seen in France, chiefly laid out in
+vines, dressed with much more care than any we have yet seen; many
+fields also of fine wheat, and some meadows of grass pasture. Every
+thing is much further advanced than in Languedoc, even allowing for the
+advance in the days we have passed in travelling. Barley not only in
+the ear, but some fields even yellowing. Bourdeaux is a noble town,
+though not so fine, I think, as Marseilles. We arrived just in time: a
+few hours later, and I should have found no passage.
+
+* * *
+
+_Wednesday_ morning, the 29th.--I have settled for the last
+accommodations to be had, viz. a small cabin in a brig, for which I pay
+L.130. The owner, like every other owner, is full of great promises; but
+in these cases, I make it a rule to believe only one half. Bourdeaux
+shews the most determined loyalty; but, alas! there are troops of the
+line in the town, and in the fort of Blaye. Instead of sending these
+troops away, and guarding the town by the national guards, they content
+themselves with giving dinners to each other, and making the drunken
+soldiers cry, "Vive le Roi!" In England, every thing is done by a
+dinner; perhaps they are imitating the English: but dinners will not do
+in this case; decided measures must be taken, or Bourdeaux will fall, in
+spite of its loyalty, and the noise it makes. The journal published
+here, of which I have secured most of the numbers, from Napoleon's
+landing to this day, is full of enthusiastic addresses:--The general
+commanding the troops to the national guards,--the national guards to
+the troops,--the mayor to his constituents,--the constituents to the
+mayor;--all this is well, but it will do nothing. Although every thing
+is yet quiet, I am determined to hurry our departure, for I do not think
+there is a doubt of the issue. Since I entered Bourdeaux, I have always
+thought it would yield on the first attack.
+
+_Thursday_, the 30th.--Things look very ill. The fort of Blaye has
+hoisted the tri-coloured flag. Thank heaven our vessel passed it to-day;
+we should otherwise probably have been fired upon. We go to Poillac,
+where we are to embark by land, as a party of English, who attempted to
+go by water, were stopt and made prisoners. The town of Bourdeaux is in
+a dead calm; the sounds of loyalty have ceased, and a mysterious silence
+reigns throughout the streets: I am sure all is not well. Suddenly after
+all this silence, there has been a most rapid transition to sentiments
+of the most devoted loyalty. This has been occasioned by a great
+entertainment given by the national guards to the troops of the line; so
+that I am afraid that although these regular soldiers of the regular
+army, when elated with wine, choose to be devoted loyalists, their
+political sentiments may undergo many different changes upon their
+return to sobriety. At present, the shout of Vive le Roi, from the
+different troops of the line and national guards which are patroling the
+streets, is loud and reiterated. Napoleon has sent to-day his addresses
+and declarations to Bourdeaux, but the couriers have been imprisoned,
+and the civil authorities have sworn to continue faithful to their King.
+This loyalty will be immediately put to the test, for Clausel is
+advancing to the walls. The Dutchess d'Angouleme passed through the
+streets, and visited the _casernes_ of the troops: Indeed her exertions
+are incessant. To her addresses the people are enthusiastic in their
+replies, but the troops continue, as I expected, sullen and silent; they
+answered, that they would not forget their duty to her, as far as not
+injuring her. I trust that she passed our hotel this evening for the
+last time, and that she has left Bourdeaux for England. Every individual
+in this city, the troops excepted, appears to hate and detest Napoleon
+as cordially as he detests them. They expect immediate destruction if he
+takes the town. Their commerce must be ruined; yet there is no
+exertion--nothing but noise. Vive le Roi is in every heart, but they
+are overawed by the troops; it costs nothing. Subscriptions, however,
+for arming the militia, go on slowly. They seem always to keep a sharp
+eye to their pockets, although, as far as shouting and bellowing is
+required, they are willing to levy any contribution on their lungs. The
+French are indeed miserably poor, but they are also miserably
+avaricious. There is nothing even approaching to national spirit; yet
+their prudence sometimes gets the better even of their economy. One
+instance, which I witnessed to-day, will shew the way in which a
+Frenchman acts in times like these: I was in a shop when one of the
+noblesse entered, bearing a subscription paper. He addressed the
+shopkeeper, saying, that he begged for his subscription, as he knew he
+was a royalist. I never _subscribe_ my name in times like these, said
+the cautious Frenchman, but I will give you some money. The gentleman
+entreated, urging, that respectable _subscriptions_, more than money,
+were wanted; but all in vain. The shopkeeper paid his ten shillings,
+saying, _he would always be the first to support his King_.
+
+I entered a bookseller's shop, and asked for the political writings of
+the day. The man looked me cautiously in the face, and said he had none
+of them. I happened to see one on the table, and asked him for it,
+telling him that I was an Englishman, and wished to carry them with me;
+he then bid me step in, and from hidden corners of the inner-shop, he
+produced the whole mass of pamphlets.--All this denotes that a change is
+immediately expected.
+
+This last night has been passed as might be expected, owing to the
+circumstances in which we were placed, in much agitation. Clausel is
+every moment advancing up the town. Every thing is in confusion. The
+troops declare they will not fire a shot. The national guards are
+wavering and undecided, and this moment (five in the morning) our
+coachman has knocked at our door to tell us that we cannot remain
+another moment safe in the town.
+
+* * *
+
+_Friday_, the 31st.--We set off accordingly at sunrise, before any one
+was abroad in the street. Our coachman reported, that General Clausel
+had reached the gates, and that the national guard had been beat off. We
+have arrived, therefore, at the most critical moment, and may be
+grateful that we have escaped. The road between Bourdeaux and Poillac
+is very bad. Arrived at the inn at half way, we met with the Marquis de
+Valsuzenai, prefect of the town, who confirmed the bad news: We learnt
+from him, that at three in the morning of the 30th, the town had
+capitulated without a shot having been fired. Two men were killed by a
+mistake of the soldiers firing, upon their own officers; a miserable
+resistance! But it could not be otherwise, as no militia could long
+stand against regulars. Still I expected tumults in the streets--rising
+among the inhabitants--weeping and wailing. But no: the French are
+unlike any other nation, they have no energy, no principle. Miserable
+people! We arrived at Poillac just as it grew dark, and owing to the
+sullen insolence of our coachman, who was a complete revolutionist, and
+to his hatred for the English, which evinced itself the moment he found
+that Bourdeaux had capitulated, we found it difficult to get any thing
+like accommodation. I am happy to add, that this same fellow, meeting
+another party of English, and beginning to be insolent, an Irish
+gentleman, with that prompt and decisive justice which characterises his
+country, by one blow of his fist laid him speechless upon the pavement.
+
+Upon meeting the Prefect of Bourdeaux, between that town and the little
+sea-port Poillac, in disguise, and hurrying to the shore, he informed us
+that before leaving the city, he had fallen on his knees before the
+Dutchess d'Angouleme, to persuade her to embark for England, and had,
+after much entreaty, succeeded. That before setting out himself, he had
+sent her post-horses, and most anxiously expected her arrival, although
+he had doubts whether she would be permitted to leave the town. As we
+pursued our route, we passed the Chateau Margot. The Marquis, to whom it
+belonged, was watching on the road with his young daughter; and the
+moment our carriage came in sight, he rushed up in great agitation, and
+exclaiming, "Where is the Dutchess? Why does she not come. She must be
+concealed at my house to-night. There are troops stationed at a league's
+distance from this to prevent her escape." Then observing the fair
+complexion of one of the ladies of our party, he cried out, "It is the
+Dutchess, it is my beloved Princess. Oh! why have you no avant garde;
+you must not proceed." The poor old man was in a state of extreme
+agitation, and his daughter weeping. It was a few minutes before we
+could undeceive him, and his assurances that we should be stopt by the
+troops on the road, afforded us no very cheering prospect as we
+proceeded on our journey. No troops, however, appeared, and we arrived
+safely at Poillac at seven o'clock.
+
+The Dutchess did not appear that night; but early next morning, we were
+called to the window, by hearing a great bustle in the street. It was
+occasioned by the arrival of this unfortunate Princess. She had three or
+four carriages along with her, filled with her attendants, and was
+escorted by a party of the national guards. Their entry into Poillac
+formed a very mournful procession; she herself looked deadly pale,
+although seemingly calm and collected. We saw many of the officers of
+the national guard crowding round her with tears in their eyes. There
+was a little chapel close to where we were lodged, and while the other
+ladies went down to the frigate to prepare for the embarkation, we heard
+that the Dutchess herself had gone to mass. After we imagined that the
+service would be nearly concluded, two of the ladies of our party
+entered the chapel, and placed themselves near to where they knew she
+would pass. As she came near them, observing that they were English, and
+much affected, she held out her hand to them; one of them said, "Oh, go
+to our England, you will be cherished there." "Yes, yes," replied she,
+"I am now going to your country;" and when they expressed a wish that
+this storm would be quickly over, and that when she again returned to
+France it would be for lasting happiness. The Dutchess replied with an
+expression which was almost cheerful, "Indeed, I hope so." This was the
+last time that any of us saw her. There was then in her expression a
+look of sweet and tranquil suffering, which was irresistibly affecting.
+
+* * *
+
+We embarked, this morning, _Saturday_, the 1st, on board the William
+Sibbald, after a night of troubles. Most fortunately for me, I had not
+trusted entirely to the owner's word, and had provided three beds and
+some provisions; for the captain told us, he could not provide ship
+room, and neither mattress nor provision of any kind.----Here we are
+then, in no very comfortable circumstances, yet thankful to escape from
+this miserable country. There are others in much greater misery than we.
+The Count de Lynch, Mayor of Bourdeaux, his brother, and another
+relation, the General commanding the national guard, and four or five
+French fugitives, have been sent on board here, by the Consul and the
+English Captain of the frigate; and they have neither clothes, nor beds,
+nor victuals: they leave their fortunes and their families behind them.
+"Alas! what a prospect," one of them exclaimed to-day; "this is the
+third fortune Bonaparte has lost to me." The unfortunate Dutchess
+d'Angouleme is now safe on board the English frigate. On leaving
+Bourdeaux, the Dutchess printed an address to the inhabitants, stating
+the reasons of her leaving them, to prevent the town from becoming a
+scene of blood and pillage. Alas! she knows not her own countrymen; they
+would not fight an hour to save her life: yet it is not because they do
+not love her--she is adored--the whole family are adored. The good among
+the nation wish for peace, but the troops are for war, and they are
+all-powerful. It is unjust to say that France ought to be allowed to
+remain under Napoleon, as she has desired his return: the army chiefly
+have desired it, and plotted it. They burn for pillage and for revenge
+on the allies, who had humbled their pride. If the allies are not
+prompt, he will again be master of his former territory. Something might
+even yet be done at Bourdeaux by an English army.
+
+We are now in the mouth of the English channel, and in full hopes, that
+as our stock, of water and of patience is almost exhausted, the Captain
+will put us into the first English port. May God grant us soon the sight
+of an English inn, and an English post-chaise, and in a day we shall
+forget all our troubles.
+
+END OF THE JOURNAL.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+STATE OP FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON.
+
+
+To trace, with accuracy, the effects of the revolution and of the
+military despotism of Napoleon on the kingdom of France, it would be
+necessary to attend to the following subjects:--the state of
+commerce--wealth of the nation, and division of this wealth--the state
+of agriculture--the condition of the towns and villages--of the noblesse
+and their property--the condition of the lower ranks, namely, the
+merchants, tradesmen, artificers, peasants, poor, and beggars--the state
+of private and public manners--the dress of the people--their
+amusements--the state of religion and morality--of criminal delinquency
+and the administration of justice.
+
+But to treat all these different subjects, and to diverge into the
+necessary observations which they would naturally suggest, would form of
+itself a voluminous work. In order, however, to judge fairly of the
+state of France, and of the character of the people, we must select and
+make observations on a few of the most material points. In my Journal,
+which accompanies this, I have purposely said but little on the state of
+the people and their character, as I intended to finish my travels
+before I formed my opinion. I did not wish to be guilty of the same
+mistake with another traveller, who, coming to an inn in which he had a
+bad egg for breakfast, served by an ugly girl, immediately set down in
+his Journal, "In this country, the eggs are all bad, and the women all
+ugly." My readers are already aware of the opportunities I possessed of
+obtaining information. They are such as present themselves to almost
+every traveller in France; and they will not therefore be surprised if
+my remarks are somewhat common-place. They will recollect that our party
+disembarked at Dieppe, and travelled from one coast to the other by
+Rouen, Paris, Lyons and Aix. By travelling very slowly, never above 30
+miles a-day, I had, perhaps a better opportunity than common of seeing
+the country, and of conversing with the inhabitants; and I have been
+more than commonly fortunate in forming acquaintance with a number of
+very well informed men in the town, which we selected as the place of
+our residence in the winter: This was Aix, in Provence. I have described
+it before in my Journal, and have only to add, that the head court for
+four departments is held there; that there is a College for the study of
+Law and Divinity, and that it is remarkable for possessing a society of
+men better informed, and of more liberal education, than most other
+towns in France.
+
+The inhabitants of Provence have always been marked by excesses of
+affection or disaffection. They do nothing in moderation; "Les tetes
+chaudes de Provence," is an expression quite common in France. In the
+commencement of the revolution, the bands of Provencals, chiefly
+Marseillois, were the leaders in every outrage. And when the tyrant,
+Napoleon, had fallen from his power, they were among the first to cry
+"Vivent les Bourbons!" They would have torn him to pieces on his way to
+Frejus, had he not been at times disguised, and at other times well
+protected by the troops and police in the villages through which he
+passed. It will then easily be imagined that the English were received
+with open arms at Aix. They heaped on us kindnesses of every
+description, and our only difficulty was to limit our acquaintance. From
+among the most moderate and best informed of our friends at Aix, I
+attempted to collect a few traits and anecdotes of Napoleon, and with
+their assistance, I shall, in the first instance, attempt giving a
+sketch of his character. It would be tedious, as well as unnecessary, to
+detail all the circumstances of his life; for most of these are
+generally known. I shall therefore only mention such as we are not
+generally acquainted with.
+
+* * *
+
+NAPOLEON was born at Ajaccio, in Corsica, not, as is generally supposed,
+in August 1769, but in February 1768. He had a motive for thus
+falsifying even the date of his birth; he conceived that it would assist
+his ambitious views, if he could prove that he was born in a province of
+France, and it was not till 1769 that Corsica became entitled to that
+denomination. His reputed father was not a _huissier_ (or bailiff) as is
+generally stated, but a _greffier_ (or register of one of the courts of
+justice). His mother is a Genoese; she is a woman of very bad
+character; and it is currently reported that Napoleon was the son of
+General Paoli; and that Louis and Jerome were the sons of the Marquis de
+Marbeuf, governor of the island. The conduct of the Marquis to the
+family of Bonaparte, then in the utmost indigence, would sanction a
+belief in this account; he protected the whole family, but particularly
+the sons, and he caused Napoleon to be placed at the Military School of
+Brienne, where he supplied him with money. This money was never spent
+among his companions, but went to purchase mathematical books and
+instruments, and to assist him in erecting fortifications. The only
+times when he deigned to amuse himself with others was during the
+attacks of these fortifications, and immediately on these being
+finished, he would retire and shut himself up among his books and
+mathematical instruments. He was, when a boy, always morose, tyrannical
+and domineering. "[11]Il motrait dans ces jeux cet esprit de domination
+qu'il a depuis manifestee sur le grand theatre du monde; et celui qui
+devoit un jour epouvanter l'Europe a commence par etre le maitre et
+l'effroi d'une troupe d'enfans[12]."
+
+He left the military college with the rank of lieutenant of artillery,
+and bearing a character which was not likely to recommend him among good
+men. He had very early displayed principles of a most daring nature. In
+a conversation with the master of the academy, some discussion having
+taken place on the subject of the difficulty of governing a great
+nation, the young Corsican remarked, "that the greatest nations were as
+easily managed as a school of boys, but that kings always studied to
+make themselves beloved, and thus worked their own ruin." The infant
+despot of France was certainly determined that no such foolish humanity
+should dictate rules to his ambition. He was once in a private company,
+where a lady making some remarks on the character of Marshal Turenne,
+declared that she would have loved him had he not burned the Palatinate.
+"And of what consequence was that, Madame," said the young Napoleon,
+"provided it assisted his plans?" We may here trace the same unfeeling
+heart that ordered the explosion of the magazine of Grenelle, which, if
+his orders had been executed, must have laid Paris in ruins. Some of my
+readers may, perhaps, not have seen an authentic statement of this most
+horrid circumstance, I shall therefore give a translation of the letter
+of Maillard Lescourt, major of artillery, taken from the Journal des
+Debats of the 7th April: "I was employed, on the evening before the
+attack of Paris, in assembling the horses necessary for the removal of
+the artillery, and was assisted in this duty by the officers of the
+'Direction Generale.' At nine at night a colonel gallopped up to the
+gate of the grating of St Dominique, where I was standing, and asked to
+speak to the Directeur d'Artillerie. On my being shewn to him, he
+immediately asked me if the powder magazine at Grenelle bad been
+evacuated? I replied that it had not, and that there was neither time
+nor horses for the purpose. Then, Sir, said he, it must be blown up. I
+turned pale, and trembled, not reflecting that there was no occasion to
+distress myself for an order which was not written, and with the bearer
+of which I was unacquainted. Do you hesitate? said the Colonel.--It
+immediately occurred to me, that the same order might be given to
+others, if I did not accept of it; I therefore calmly replied to him,
+that I should immediately set about it. Become master of this frightful
+secret, I entrusted it to no one." At Paris we met with persons of much
+respectability, who vouched for the truth of this statement.
+
+There can be no doubt that this order was given by Napoleon, for at this
+time the other ruling authorities had left Paris. It is by no means
+inconsistent with the character of the man; never, in any instance, has
+he been known to value the lives of men, where either ambition or
+revenge instigated him. Beauchamp, in his history of the last campaign,
+gives the following anecdote;[13] "Sire, (lui disoit un general, en le
+felicitant sur la victoire de Montmirail), quel beau jour, si nous ne
+voyions autour de nous tant de villes et de pays devastes. Tant mieux,
+replique Napoleon, cela me donne des soldats!!"
+
+The second capture of Rheims in that campaign was an object of little
+consequence to him, but he now determined it should suffer by fire and
+sword. From the heights he looked down on the town, then partly on fire,
+and smiling said, [14]"Eh bien, dans une heure les dames de Rheims
+auront grand peur." His resentment against the towns that declared for
+the Bourbons was beyond all bounds; The following account of the murder
+of the unfortunate De Goualt is taken from Beauchamp's interesting
+work:[15] "On le saisit, on le conduit a l'hotel de ville, devant une
+commission militaire, qui procede a son jugement, on plutot a sa
+condamnation. Une heure s'etait a peine ecoulee qu'un officier survient
+se fait ouvrir les portes, et demande si la sentence est prononcee. Les
+juges vont aller aux voix, dit on. "Qu'on le fusille, sur le champ," dit
+l'officier; "l'Empereur l'ordonne." Le malhereux Goualt est condamne.
+Le deuil est generale dans la ville. Le proprietaire de la maison,
+qu'avoit choisi Bonaparte pour y etablir son quartier, solicite une
+audience; il l'obtient. "Sire, (dit Monsieur du Chatel a Napoleon), un
+jour de triomphe doit etre un jour de clemence. Je viens de supplier
+votre Majeste d'accorder a toute la ville de Troyes la grace d'un de nos
+malheureux compatriotes qui vient d'etre condamne a mort." "Sortez," dit
+le tyran, d'un air faronche, "Vous oubliez qui vous etes chez moi." Il
+etait onze heures et cet infortune sortait de l'hotel de ville, escorte
+par des gens-d'armes, portant, attache a son dos, et a sa poitrine un
+ecriteau en gros caracteres, dans ces mots, "Traitre a la patrie,"
+qu'on lisait a la lueur des flambeaux. Le dechirant et lugubre cortege
+se dirigeait vers la place du marche destine aux executions criminelles.
+La on veut bander les yeux au condamne. Il s'y refuse, et dit d'une voix
+ferme qu'il saura mourir pour son Roi. Lui meme donne le signal de tirer
+et c'est en criant, "Vive le Roi! Vive Louis XVIII!" qu'il rend le
+dernier soupir."
+
+Tacitus, in describing the Corsicans, gives us three of the principal
+ingredients in the character of Napoleon, when he says, [16]"Ulcisci,
+prima lex est, altera, mentiri, tertia, negare Deos." To these we may
+add unlimited ambition, insatiable vanity, considerable courage at
+times, and the most dastardly cowardice at others. It must be owned,
+that this last is an extraordinary mixture; but I am inclined to
+believe, in despite of the many proofs of rash and impetuous courage,
+that Napoleon was in the main, and whenever life and existence was at
+stake, a cool and selfish coward. His rival Moreau always thought so.
+Immediately before the campaign of Dresden, in a conversation on
+Napoleon's character, this General observed, [17]"Ce qui characterise
+cet homme, ce'st le mensonge et l'amour de la vie; Je vais l'attaquer,
+je le battrai, et je le verrai a mes pieds me demander la vie."--It
+pleased Providence that a part only of this prediction should be
+accomplished; but we have seen that Bonaparte dared not court the death
+of Moreau. Never was more decided cowardice shewn by any man than by
+Napoleon after the entry of the allies into Paris. How easily might he
+have fought his way, with a numerous band of determined followers, who,
+to the last minute, never failed him; but he preferred remaining to beg
+for his life, and to attend to the removal _of his wines and
+furniture_!! But we must proceed more regularly in developing the traits
+of this extraordinary man. A gentleman of Aix, one of whose near
+relations had the charge of Napoleon, when his character was suspected
+at Toulon, gave me the following particulars of his first employment.
+During the siege of Toulon, he had greatly distinguished himself, and
+had applied to the "Commissaires de Convention," who at that time
+possessed great power in the army, to promote him; but these men
+detesting Bonaparte's character, refused his request.--On this occasion,
+General De Gominier said to them, [18]"Avancez cet officier; car si vous
+ne l'avancez pas, il saura bien s'avancer lui meme." The Commissaries
+could no longer refuse, and Bonaparte was appointed colonel of
+artillery. Shortly after this, having got into some scrape from his
+violent and turbulent disposition, he was put under arrest; and it was
+even proposed that he should be tried and executed (a necessary
+consequence of a trial at that period). His situation at this time was
+extremely unpromising; Robespierre and his accomplices, Daunton, St
+Juste, Barrere, &c. were all either put to death or forced to conceal
+themselves. Bonaparte now perceived, that for the accomplishment of his
+views, it was necessary that he should forsake his haughty and
+domineering tone, and flatter those in power. He immediately commenced a
+series of intrigues, and by the assistance of his friends at Paris, and
+that good fortune which has always befriended him, he soon found an
+opportunity of extricating himself from the danger which surrounded him.
+Barras, who was then at the head of the administration, under the title
+of Directeur, alarmed by the distracted state of Paris, and dreading the
+return of the Bourbons, assembled a council of his friends and
+associates in crime; it was then determined that an attack should
+immediately be made on the Parisian royalists, or, as the gentleman who
+gave me this account expressed it, [19]"Dissiper les royalistes, et
+foudroyer les Parisiens jusque dans leurs foyers."
+
+But where were they to find a Frenchman who would take upon him the
+execution of so barbarous an order? One of the meeting mentioned
+Bonaparte, and his well-known character determined the directors in
+their choice. He was ordered to Paris, and the hand of Madame
+Beauharnois, and the command of the army of Italy, held out to him as
+the reward of his services, provided he succeeded in _dissipating_ the
+royalists. It is well known that he did succeed to his utmost wish; the
+streets of Paris were strewed with dead bodies, and the power of the
+Directory was proclaimed by peals of artillery.
+
+Shortly after this, Bonaparte commenced that campaign in Italy, in which
+he so highly signalised himself as a great general and a brave soldier.
+It is the general opinion of the French that this was the only campaign
+in which Napoleon shewed personal courage; others allege, that he
+continued to display the greatest bravery till the siege of Acre. To
+reconcile the different opinions with respect to the character of
+Napoleon in this point, is a matter of much difficulty. After having
+heard the subject repeatedly discussed by officers who had accompanied
+him in many of his campaigns; after having read all the pamphlets of the
+day, I am inclined to think that the character given of him in that
+work, perhaps erroneously believed to be written by his valet, is the
+most just. This book certainly contains much exaggeration, but it is by
+no means considered, by the French whom I have met, as a forgery. The
+author must, from his style, be a man of some education; and he asserts
+that he was with him in all his battles, from the battle of Marengo to
+the campaign of Paris. He declares, that Napoleon was _courageous only
+in success, brave only when victorious_; that the slightest reverse made
+him a coward. His conduct in Egypt, in abandoning his army, his
+barbarous and unfeeling flight from Moscow, and his last scene at
+Fontainbleau, are sufficient proofs of this.
+
+The battle of Marengo is generally instanced as the one in which
+Napoleon shewed the greatest personal courage; but this statement
+neither agrees with the account given in the above work, nor by Monsieur
+Gaillais. From the work of the last mentioned gentleman, entitled
+"Histoire de Dix huit Brumaire," I shall extract a few lines on the
+subject of this battle.[20] "A la pointe du jour les Autrichiens
+commencerent l'attaque, dabord assez lentement, plus vivement ensuite,
+et enfin avec une telle furie que les Francais furent enfonces de tous
+cotes. Dans ce moment affreux ou les morts et les mourants jonchaient la
+terre, le premier Consul, place au milieu de sa garde, semblait
+immuable, insensible, et comme frappe de la foudre. Vainement les
+generaux lui depechaient coup sur coup leurs Aides de Camp, pour
+demander des secours; vainement les Aides de Camp attendaient les
+ordres; il n'endonnait aucune; il donnait a peine signe de la vie.
+Plusieurs penserent que croyant la battaille perdue, il voulut se faire
+tuer. D'autres, avec plus de raison, se persuaderent qu'il avoit perdu
+la tete, et qu'il ne voyait et n'entendait plus rien de se qui se disoit
+et de ce qui se passait autour de lui. Le General Berthier vint le prier
+instamment de se retirer; au lieu de lui repondre il se coucha par
+terre. Cependant les Francais fuyerent a toutes jambes, la bataille
+etoit perdue lorsque tout a coup on entendait dire que le General
+Dessaix arrive avec une division de troupes fraiches. Bientot apres on
+le voit paroitre lui meme a leur tete; les fuyards se ralliaient
+derriere ses colonnes--leur courage est revenue--la chance tourne--les
+Francais attaquent a leur tour avec la meme furie qu'ils avoient ete
+attaque--et brulent d'effacer la honte de leur defaite du matin."
+
+Desaix fell in this battle, and the whole glory of it was given to
+Napoleon. The last words of this gallant man were these: [21]"Je meurs
+avec le regret de n'avoir pas assez vecu pour ma patrie.".
+
+This account of Napoleon's behaviour at Marengo was confirmed to me at
+Aix, by two French officers of rank who had been present at the battle.
+
+I do not mean to give a life of Napoleon; ere a year is past, I have not
+a doubt that we shall have but too many; indeed, already they are not
+wanting in England. I mean only to give such anecdotes as are not so
+generally known, and to attempt an explanation of the two most
+interesting circumstances in his career, viz. the means he has employed
+in his aggrandisement, and the causes of his downfall. It is only when
+we survey the extent of his power, without reflecting on the gradual
+steps which led to it, that we are astonished and confounded; for, in
+reality, when his means are considered, and the state of France at the
+time is placed before our eyes, much of the difficulty vanishes; and we
+perceive, that any daring character, making use of the same means, might
+have arrived at the same end. It is foolish to deny him (as many of his
+biographers do), great military talent, for that he certainly possessed,
+as long as his good fortune allowed him to display it. This talent he
+not only evinced in the formation of his plans, but in the execution
+also. No man knew better the means of calling forth the inexhaustible
+military resources of France. The people of that country were always
+brave; but Bonaparte alone knew how to make them all soldiers. The
+desire of glory has ever characterized the nation, and the state of
+tyranny and oppression in which they were kept under his government, had
+no effect in diminishing this passion. The French people under Napoleon
+furnish a striking exception to the maxim of Montesquieu, when he says,
+[22]"On peut poser pour maxime, que dans chaque etat le desir de la
+gloire existe avec la liberte de sujets, et diminue avec elle; la gloire
+n'est jamais compagne de la servitude."
+
+The French forget their misfortunes almost immediately. After the
+campaign of Moscow, one would have thought that the hardships they
+endured might have given them a sufficient disgust, and that it was
+likely they would forsake one who shewed so little feeling for them. I
+happened once to meet with several of the poor wretches who had been
+with him; they were then on their road home; most of them were entirely
+disabled; one had his toes frozen off--they declared that they _would
+again fight under him if they were able_. At one of the inns, I met with
+a young officer who had also been with him at Moscow: I happened to
+enquire how they could bear the cold? "We were as comfortable," said he,
+"as you and I are at this fire-side." The poor fellow was not twenty-one
+years old. [23]"La jeunesse d'aujour-d'hui est elevee dans d'autres
+principes; l'amour de la gloire sur tout a jete des profondes racines;
+il est devenu l'attribut le plus distinctif du caractere national,
+exalte par vingt ans de succes continues. Mais cette gloire meme etoit
+devenue notre idole, elle absorboit toutes les pensees des braves mis
+hors-de-combat par leurs blessures, toutes les esperances des jeunes
+gens qui faisaient leur premieres armes. Un coup imprevu l'a frappe,
+nous trouvons dans nos coeurs une vide semblable a celui qui trouve un
+amant qui a perdu l'objet de sa passion; tout se qu'il voit, tout ce
+qu'il entende renouvelle sa douleur. Ce sentiment rend notre situation
+vague et penible; chacun cherche a se dissimuler la place qu'il sente
+exister au fond de son coeur. On le regarde comme humilie, apres vingt
+ans des triomphes continues, pour avoir perdu une seule partie
+malhereusement etait la partie d'honneur; et qui a fait la regle de nos
+destinees."--Such is the language of the military.
+
+In conversation one evening with one of the noblesse, who had suffered
+in the revolution, he told me that this military spirit extended not
+only to all ranks and professions, but to all ages. He said that the
+young men in the schools refused to learn any thing but mathematics and
+the science of arms; and that he recollected many instances of boys ten
+and twelve years of age, daily entreating their fathers and mothers to
+permit them to join Napoleon. It was in vain to represent to them the
+hardships they must suffer; their constant reply was, "If we die, we
+will at least find glory." Read the campaign of Moscow, said another
+gentleman to me, you will there see the French character:[24] "Les
+Francois sont les seuls dans l'univers qui pourroient rire meme en
+gelant."
+
+Napoleon certainly greatly encreased the military spirit of the people:
+Before his time, you heard of commerce, of agriculture, of manufactures,
+as furnishing the support of the community; under him, you heard of
+nothing but war. The rapid destruction of the population of France
+occasioned constant promotion, and the army became the most promising
+profession. It was a profession in which no education was wanting--to
+which all had access. Bonaparte never allowed merit to go unrewarded.
+The institution of the Legion of Honour alone was an instrument in his
+hands of sufficient power to call forth the energy of a brave people; to
+this rank even the private soldier might arrive. In this organization
+of the army, therefore, we may trace his first means of success.
+
+The next was his military _tactique_:--The great and simple principle on
+which this was founded, is evident in every one of the pitched battles
+which he gained;--he out-numbered his opponents,--he sacrificed a
+troop,--a battalion,--a division,--or a whole army without bestowing a
+moment's thought. Bonaparte has sometimes, though very seldom, shewn
+that his heart could be touched, but never, on any occasion, did the
+miserable display of carnage in the field of battle call forth these
+feelings; never was he known to pity his soldiers. On seeing a body of
+fresh recruits join the army, his favourite expression was always,
+[25]"Eh bien, voyez encore de matiere premiere, du chair a cannon."
+After a battle, when he rode over the ground, he would smile, and say,
+[26]"Ma foi, voyez une grande consommation." The day after the battle of
+Prusse-Eylau, his valet thus describes his visit to the field of blood:
+[27]"Il faisoit un froid glacial, des mourants respiroient encore; la
+foule des cadavres et les cavites noiratres qui le sang des hommes avoit
+laisse dans la neige faisoit un affreux contraste. L'etat Major etoit
+peniblement affecte. L'Empereur seul contemplait froidement cette scene
+de deuil et de sang. Je poussai mon cheval quelques pas devant le sien;
+j'etois eurieux de l'observer dans un pareil moment. Vous eussiez dit
+qu'il etoit alors detache de toutes les affections humaines, que tout ce
+qui l'environnait n'existoit pour lui. Il parloit tranquillement des
+evenemens de la veille. En passant devant une groupe des grenadiers
+Russes massacres, le cheval d'un Aide-de-Camp avoit peur. Le Prince
+l'appercevait: "Ce cheval, lui dit il, froidement, est un lache."
+
+It cannot be doubted that such a man would sacrifice regiment after
+regiment to obtain his purpose; we may indeed wonder, that when known to
+possess such a heart, he was obeyed by his men: But a little thought, a
+little reflection on the means he took to ingratiate himself with his
+troops will remove this difficulty. Look also at his dispatches, his
+proclamations, and orders; they appear the effusion of the father of a
+family addressing his children: "Their country required the sacrifices,
+which he deplored." All thought is at an end when they are thus attacked
+on their weak side. At other times, the hope of plunder was held out to
+them. The words, _glory, honour, their country, laurels, immortal
+fame_--these words, fascinating to the ear of any people, are more
+peculiarly so to the French. When conversing with an old French officer,
+who had served under the Prince of Conde in the emigrant army, on this
+subject, he made this remark: "Sir, you do not know the French;
+assemble them together, and having pronounced the words _glory, honour
+and your country_, point to the moon, and you will have an army ready to
+undertake the enterprise." Napoleon was well aware of this weakness of
+the French. He would ride through the ranks on the eve of a battle,
+would recall their former victories to one body; make promises to a
+second; joke with a third,--cold, distant, and forbidding at all other
+times, he is described as affable in the extreme on all such occasions.
+The meanest soldier might then address him.
+
+The rapid military promotion may be given as another cause of Napoleon's
+success. The most distinguished corps were, of course, the greatest
+sufferers; and the young man who joined the army, as a lieutenant, on
+the eve of an action, was a captain the next day, perhaps a colonel
+before he had seen a year's service. [28]"Des ouvriers sortis de leurs
+atteliers (says Monsieur Gaillais in his "Histoire de Dix Huit
+Brumaire,") des paysans echappes de villages, avec un bonnet sur la tete
+et un baton a la main, devenaient au bout de six mois des soldats
+intrepides, et au bout de deux ans des officiers agueris, et des
+generaux redoubtables au plus anciens generaux de l'Europe." Nothing
+struck me more forcibly than the youth of the French officers. The
+generals only are veterans, for Bonaparte well knew, that experience is
+as necessary as courage in a General.
+
+Next, we may direct our attention to the means which this despot
+possessed, by filling the war department with his own creatures; by
+giving liberal salaries and unlimited power to the prefects of the
+different departments, he amassed both troops and pay to support them.
+The tyrannic measures for levying these became at last insupportable;
+the people were rising in the villages, and by force of arms rescuing
+their companions; and it is very probable that he might have found,
+latterly, a want of men; but for years he has had at his disposal three
+hundred thousand men annually. In describing the effects of the
+conscription, one of the members of the Senate made use of the
+following expression:--[29]"On moissonne les homines trois fois
+l'annee."
+
+With such supplies, what single power could resist him? War with him
+became a mere mechanical calculation. Among the causes of his elevation,
+the use he made of the other continental Powers must not be forgotten;
+whether gained by corruption, treachery, or force, they all became his
+allies; they were all compelled to assist him with troops. When the
+Sovereigns of these countries consented to his plans, they were
+permitted to govern their own kingdoms, otherwise the needy family of
+Bonaparte supplied the _roitelets_ at a moment's warning. These little
+monarchs, he is said to have treated with the utmost contempt.
+
+My readers may perhaps be inclined to smile, when I mention among the
+causes of Napoleon's elevation, the use made by him of ballad-singers,
+newsmongers, pedlars, &c. But really, on a deliberate view of his system
+of juggling and deception, I am inclined to believe, that it was one of
+his most powerful engines. The people of France are not only the most
+vain, but the most credulous in the world. To work on their feelings,
+he kept in constant pay author of every description, from the man who
+composed the Vaudeville, which was sold for half a sous, to the authors
+of the many clever political pamphlets which daily appear in France: for
+the dissemination of these, he had agents, not only in France, but in
+distant countries. When he aimed at the subjugation of any part of the
+continent, his first endeavour was always to disseminate seditious and
+inflammatory pamphlets against its Government. It is never doubted in
+France, that even in _England_, he had his emissaries.
+
+Editors of newspapers, in every part of the globe, were in his pay. The
+method in which the newspaper, called the Argus, was published, is an
+extraordinary proof of this fact. The Argus, whose principal object was
+to abuse the English, was first of all written in French, by one of the
+"Commissaires de Police;" it was then translated into English, and a few
+copies were circulated in this language, to keep up the idea, that it
+was smuggled over from England; after these found their way, the French
+copy, or in other words, the original, was widely circulated. A more
+infamous trick can scarce be conceived. Extracts from this paper were,
+by express order of Napoleon, published in every French paper. Nothing
+was considered by him as beneath his notice. He encouraged dancing,
+feasting, gaming. The theatres, concerts, public gardens, were under his
+protection. The traiteurs, the keepers of caffes, of brothels, of
+ale-houses, the limonadiers, and the wine-merchants, were his particular
+favourites. His object in this was, to produce a degree of profligacy in
+the public manners, and a disgust at industry; and the consequence was,
+the resort of all ranks to the army, as the easiest and most lucrative
+profession.
+
+With regard to the many other causes which will suggest themselves to my
+readers in reading a history of his campaigns, I shall say nothing; for
+on all of these, as well as on the causes of his downfall, which I shall
+merely enumerate, I leave them to make their own observations. I have
+already been very tedious, and have yet much to observe on different
+points of his character.
+
+To the last rigorous measures for the conscription, to the institution
+of the "Droits Reunis;" to the formation of the garde d'honneur; and to
+his attack on the religion of France, Bonaparte owed his first
+unpopularity. The hatred of the French is as impetuous as their
+admiration. They exclaimed against every measure when they were once
+exasperated against him: still he had many friends; still he possessed
+an army which kept the nation in awe. This army he chose to sacrifice in
+Spain and Russia. The nation could no longer supply him, and the strong
+coalition which took place against him, was not to be repelled by a
+broken-down army. His military talent seemed latterly to have forsaken
+him, and never was the expulsion of a tyrant so easily accomplished.
+
+His excessive vanity never left him--of this, the Moniteur for the last
+ten years is a sufficient proof; but in reading the accounts of him, I
+was particularly struck with the instances which follow.
+
+Anxious to impress on the minds of the Directors, the necessity of the
+expedition to Egypt, he made a speech, in which the meanest flattery was
+judiciously mingled with his usual vanity. [30]"Ce n'est que sous un
+gouvernement aussi sage aussi grand que le votre, qu'un simple soldat
+tel que moi pouvait concevoir le projet de porter la guerre en
+Egypte.--Oui, Directeurs, a peine serais je maitre d'Egypte, et des
+solitudes de la Palestine, que l'Angleterre vous donnera un vaisseau de
+premier bord pour un sac de bled."
+
+Some days before his celebrated appearance among the "Cinq Cents," his
+friends advised him to repair thither well armed, and attended with
+troops. [31]"Si je me presente avec des troupes (disait Napoleon), c'est
+pour complaire a mes amis, car en verite j'ai la plus grande envie d'y
+paraitre comme fit jadis Louis XIV. au Parlement, en bottes, et un fouet
+a la main."
+
+In his speech to the Corps Legislatif, on the 1st of January 1814, he
+made use of the following words at the close of an oration, composed of
+the same unmeaning phrases, strung together in fifty different shapes.
+[32]"Je suis de ces homines qu'on tue, mais qu'on ne dishonore pas.
+Dans trois mois nous aurons la paix, ou l'enemi sera chasse de notre
+territoire--ou, je serai mort."
+
+A further specimen of Napoleon's style, will, I think, amuse my readers;
+I shall, therefore, copy out an extract of his speech to the Legislative
+Body: [33]"Je vous ai appelle autour de moi pour faire le bien, vous
+avez fait le mal, vous avez entre vous des gens devoues a l'Angleterre,
+qui correspondent avec le Prince Regent par l'entremise de l'avocat
+Deseze. Les onze-douziemes parmi vous sont bons; les autres sont des
+factieux. Retournez dans vos departments;--je vous y suivrai de l'oeil.
+Je suis un homme qu'on peut tuer, mais qu'on ne saurait deshonnorer.
+Quel est celui d'entre vous qui pouvait supporter le fardeau du
+pouvoir; il a ecrase l'Assemble Constituante, qui dicta des loix a un
+monarque faible. Le Fauxbourg St Antoine nous aurait seconde, mais il
+vous est bientot abandonne. Que sont devenus les Jacobins, les
+Girondins, les Vergniaux, les Guadets, et tant d'autres? Ils sont morts.
+Vous avez cherche a me barbouiller aux gens de la France. C'est un
+attentat;--qu'est que le trone, au reste? Quatre morceaux de bois dore
+recouverts de velours. Je vous avais indique un Commite Secret; c'etait
+la qu'il fallait laver notre linge. J'ai un titre, vous n'en avez point.
+Qui etes vous dans la Constitution? Vous n'avez point d'autorite. C'est
+le Trone qui est la Constitution. Tout est dans le trone et dans moi.
+Je vous le repete, vous avez parmi vous des factieux. Monsieur Laisne
+est un mechant homme; les autres sont des factieux. Je les connais, et
+je les poursuivrai. Je vous le demande, Etait ce cependant que les
+ennemies sont chez nous qu'il fallait faire de pareilles choses? La
+nature m'a doue d'un courage fort; il peut resister a tout. Il en a
+beaucoup coute a mon orgueil, je l'ai sacrifie. Je suis au dessus de vos
+miserables declamations. J'avais demande des consolations et vous m'avez
+dishonore. Mais non; mes victoires ecrasent vos criailleries. Je suis de
+ceux qui triomphent ou qui meurent. Retournez dans vos departments."
+
+The vanity of Napoleon led him to suppose that he was fitted to lay
+down the law to the most eminent among the French philosophers; that he
+could improve the French language, the theatre, the state of society,
+the public seminaries, the weights and measures of the realm. He
+meddled, in short, with every thing. Under the walls of Moscow, he
+composed a proclamation in the morning, declaring that he would soon
+dictate a code of laws to the Russians; and, in the evening, he dictated
+a code of regulations for the theatres of Paris. His ardent wish was, to
+have it thought that he had time and capacity for every thing. It arose
+from this, that he trusted to no one, and having himself every thing to
+do, that he did nothing well. If he went to visit a college, he prepared
+Latin and Greek sentences for the occasion; in many of his speeches he
+introduced scrapes of classic lore. His love of Greek terms is admirably
+described in a little epigram, made on his new _tarif_ of weights and
+measures, in which the _grams_ and _killograms_, and _metres_ and
+_killometres_ are introduced.
+
+    Les Grecs pour nous ont tant d'attraits
+    Qui pour se faire bien entendre,
+    Et pour comprendre le Francais
+    Ce'st le Greque qu'il faut apprendre.
+
+He was particularly anxious that his police should be perfect. He
+pursued, for the accomplishment of his views, the same plan so
+successfully employed under the celebrated Sartine. He had spies in
+every private family, and every rank and denomination. These he did not
+employ as Sartine did, for the detection of thieves and robbers; with
+him, the dreadful machine of espionage was organised, in order that he
+might always know the state of public feeling; that knowing also the
+character of each individual, he might be the better able to select
+instruments fit for his purposes. Fouche had brought this system to the
+utmost perfection. Bonaparte distrusted him, and demanded proofs of his
+activity. Fouche desired him to appoint a day, on which he should give
+him a full account of every action performed by him. The day was
+appointed, the utmost precaution was used by the Emperor; but the spies
+gave an account of his every action from six in the morning till eight
+at night. They refused to inform Fouche what had become of Bonaparte
+after eight; but said, that if the Emperor desired it, they would inform
+him in person. The Emperor did not press the subject farther, but
+confessed _that he had not spent the remainder of the evening in the
+best of company_. Ever after this he was satisfied with the state of
+the police. To give some idea of the activity of this system, I may
+mention a curious anecdote, which I received from our banker: One of the
+most respectable bankers in Paris, whose name I have forgot, was sitting
+at supper with his chief _commis_ or clerk. They were served by one
+faithful old servant, who, during 30 years, had been tried, and had
+always been found worthy of confidence. The conversation turned on the
+subject of the last campaign--this was before the campaign of Paris. The
+_commis_ happened to remark, that he thought Bonaparte's career was
+nearly finished, and that he would meet his fate presently. The next
+morning the banker received a letter from the Police Department,
+instructing him to order the departure of his _commis_ from Paris within
+24 hours, and from France within a month.
+
+The same gentleman gave me a genuine edition of the celebrated story of
+Sartine's stopping the travellers at the gates of Paris. It may amuse my
+readers, although, I dare say, they have seen it before in other shapes.
+
+A very rich lace merchant from Brussels, was in the habit of constantly
+frequenting the fair of St Denis. On these occasions, he repaired to
+Paris in the public diligence, accompanied by his trunks of lace. He
+had apartments at an hotel in the Rue des Victoires, which he had for
+many years occupied; and to secure which, he used always to write some
+weeks before. An illness had prevented his visiting the fair during two
+years; on the third, he wrote as usual to his landlord, and received an
+answer, that the death of the landlord had occasioned a change in the
+firm and tenants of the house; but that he was well known to them, and
+that they would keep for him his former rooms, and would do their utmost
+to give him satisfaction.
+
+The merchant set out--arrived at the barrier of Paris; the diligence was
+stopped, and a gentleman whom he had never seen before, accosted him by
+name, and desired him to alight. The merchant was a good deal surprised
+at this; but you may judge of his alarm, when he heard an order given to
+the _conducteur_ to unloose numbers one, two, three--the trunks, in
+which was contained his whole fortune. The gentleman desired he would
+not be afraid, but trust every thing to him. The diligence was ordered
+away, and the lace merchant, in a state of agony, was conveyed by his
+new acquaintance to the house of Monsieur de Sartine. He there began an
+enumeration of his grievances, but was civilly interrupted by M. de
+Sartine--"Sir, you have not much reason to complain; but for your visit
+to me here, you would have been murdered this night at twelve." The
+minister then detailed to him the plan that had been laid for his
+murder, and astonished him by shewing a copy, not only of the letter
+which he had written to the landlord of the hotel, but also the answer
+returned by the landlord. Monsieur de Sartine then begged that he would
+place the most implicit confidence in him, and remain in his house until
+he should recover himself from his fright. He would then return to the
+coach in waiting, and would be attended to the hotel by one of his
+emissaries as valet. The merchant told him that the people of the house
+would not be deceived by a stranger, for they were well acquainted with
+all his concerns, and even with his writing. "Examine your attendant,"
+said M. de Sartine; "you will find him well instructed, and he speaks
+your dialect as you do yourself." A few questions convinced the merchant
+that the minister had made a good selection. M. de Sartine then
+described the reception he would meet with, the rooms he was to occupy,
+the persons he should see, and laid down directions for his conduct;
+telling him, at the same time, that if at a loss, he should consult his
+attendant. On his arrival at the inn, every thing shewed the wonderful
+correctness of the information. His reception was kind as ever. Dinner
+was served up; and the merchant, according to his practice, engaged
+himself till a late hour in his usual occupations. The valet played his
+part to a miracle, and saw his master to bed, after repeating to him the
+instructions of Monsieur de Sartine. The merchant, as may well be
+supposed, did not sleep much. At twelve, a trap door in the floor opened
+gently, and a man ascended into the apartment, having a dark lanthorn in
+one hand, and in the other, some small rings of iron, used for gagging
+people to prevent their speaking. He had just ascended, when the valet
+knocked him down and secured him; the room was immediately filled with
+the officers of the police. The house had been surrounded to prevent
+escape; and in a cellar under the room where the merchant had slept, and
+which communicated with the trap door, were found the master, mistress,
+and all the members of the gang--they were all secured.
+
+Let us proceed with the character of Napoleon. All the world is well
+acquainted with his vices; it is less probable that they have ever heard
+of his virtues, of his having shown that he felt as a man. The
+following instance is authentic:
+
+After the capture of Berlin, the command of the city was given to one of
+the Prussian generals, who had sworn fidelity to Bonaparte. This officer
+betrayed his trust, and communicated to the King of Prussia all the
+information which he obtained of the motions of the French army.
+Bonaparte obtained sufficient proof of his crime, by intercepted
+letters. The officer was arrested, a military trial was ordered, and
+sentence of death pronounced. The wife of the officer threw herself at
+the feet of Bonaparte, and implored the life of her husband. He was
+touched, and drawing out from his pocket the letters which proved the
+crime, he tore them to pieces, saying, that in thus destroying the
+proofs of his guilt, he deprived himself of the power of afterwards
+punishing it. The officer was immediately released.
+
+If Napoleon did not possess feeling, or even common humanity, he was at
+least anxious that the people of France should believe that he had these
+good qualities. It is said that, on the evening before he left Paris on
+his last campaign, he sent for the tragedian Talma, and had taught to
+him the action, features and aspect which he the next day employed when
+he left his wife and child to the care of the national guard. The
+following scene will at once show his desire to be esteemed generous,
+and his utter meanness of character:--[34]"Un de ses Ministres l'aborde
+un jour et lui presente un rapport qu'il avait desire; il s'agissait
+d'une conspiration contre sa personne. J'etais present a cette scene. Je
+m'attendais, je l'avoue, a le voir entrer en fureur, fulminer contre les
+traitres, menacer les magistrats, et les accuser de negligence. Point du
+tout; il parcourt le papier sans donner le moindre signe d'agitation.
+Jugez de ma surprise, ou plutot quelle douce emotion j'eprouvais quand
+il fit entendre ces paroles touchantes et sublimes:--"Monsieur le Comte,
+l'etat n'a point souffert; les magistrats n'ont point ete insultes; ce
+n'est donc qu'a ma personne qu'ils en voulaient; je les plains de ne
+point savoir que tous mes voeux tendent au bonheur de la France; mais
+tout homme peut s'egarer. Dites aux ingrats que je leurs pardonne. Mons.
+le Conte aneantissez la procedure." Maintenant je defie le royaliste le
+plus fidele qui seroit temoin d'un procede si magnanime, de ne point
+dire, si le ciel dans sa colere devait un usurpateur a la France;
+remercions d'avoir du celui ci. Arrete malhereux, tes yeux ont vu, tes
+oreilles ont entendu, ne crois rien de tout; mais deux jours apres
+trouve toi, au lever de ce hero, si magnanime, si peu avide de se
+veuger--on ouvre, le voici, la foule des courtisans l'environne, tout le
+monde fixe les yeux sur lui. Sa figure est decomposee, tous les muscles
+de son visage sont en contraction, tout son ensemble est farouche et
+colere. Un silence funebre regne dans l'assemblee. Le Prince n'a point
+encore parle, mais il promene des regardes sur la groupe: il appeicoit
+le meme officier, qui deux jours avant lui avait presente le rapport,
+"Monsieur le Conte, (dit il), ces laches conspirateurs sont ils
+executes? Leurs complices sont ils aux fers? Les bourreaux on ils donne
+un nouvel example a qui voudrait imiter ceux qui veuleut a ma personne?"
+
+A distinguishing feature in Napoleon's character was unnecessary
+cruelty; of this the campaign in Moscow, (of which Labaume's narrative
+is a true though highly-coloured picture), the slaughter of the Turks in
+Egypt, the poisoning of his invalids, and the death of every one who
+stood in his way, are sufficient and notorious proofs. St Cloud was in
+general the scene of his debaucheries. The following anecdote was
+related by Count Rumford to a gentleman of my acquaintance, and may be
+depended on as correct; for at the time that it happened, Count Rumford
+was in lodgings on the spot. Napoleon had brought from Paris a beautiful
+girl belonging to the opera; he had carried her into one of the arbours
+of the garden. Many of the little boys about St Cloud were in habits of
+climbing up among the trees, whether merely as a play, or from curiosity
+to see the Emperor. On leaving the arbour with his favourite, Napoleon
+saw one of these boys perched upon a high tree above him. He flew
+straight to one of the gates, and bringing the sentinel who was
+stationed there, he pointed out the boy, exclaiming, "Tirez sur ce b----
+la." The order was executed, and the boy never more seen.
+
+But for no one act did he incur the hatred of the French in such a
+degree as for the murder of the Duke d'Enghien; in committing this
+crime, not only the laws of humanity, but the laws of nations were
+violated.
+
+This branch of the Royal Family was under a foreign power; he could by
+no means be esteemed a subject of Bonaparte. Even the family of
+Bonaparte, who, (as we shall presently see), did not possess many good
+qualities, were shocked with this crime; they reproached him with it;
+and Lucien said to him, [35]"Vous voulez dont nous faire trainer sur la
+claye."
+
+The treatment of the Pope, of Pichegru, of Georges, of Moreau, furnish
+us with further instances of his cruelty. Bonaparte did his utmost to
+make the Parisians believe that Moreau was connected with Pichegru in
+the conspiracy to establish the Bourbons on the throne. This was totally
+false. But Napoleon, jealous of a rival like Moreau, could not bear that
+he should live. Moreau's bold and unbending character hastened his
+downfall. He always called the flat-bottomed boats, [36]"Ces coquilles
+de noix;" and after an excellent dinner which he gave at Paris to many
+of his fellow Generals, in mockery of the [37]"Epees d'honneur, fusils
+d'honneur," &c, which Bonaparte at this time distributed; Moreau sent
+for his cook, and with much ceremony invested him with a [38]"casserole
+d'honneur."
+
+There are many interesting traits of this noble character, which, if I
+had time, I should wish to give my readers. When he had been condemned
+to imprisonment for two years, by the express orders of Bonaparte, the
+impression made on the mind of the soldiery, of the judges, and of all
+the court, was such, that they seemed insensible to what was going on.
+Nobody was found to remove him from the bar; he descended the stairs of
+the court; walked down the street amid a crowd of admirers; and instead
+of escaping, as he easily might, he called a coach, and ordered the
+coachman to drive to the Temple. When arrived there, he informed the
+Governor of his sentence, and its execution. My readers will, I am sure,
+be pleased with a few extracts from the account of Moreau's death, given
+by his friends, M. Breton de la Martiniere and M. Rapatel:
+
+"Moreau conversait avec l'Empereur Alexandre, dont il n'etait separe que
+le demi longueur d'un cheval. Il est probable qu'on appercut de la place
+ce brillant etat major, et que l'on tira dessus au hazard. Moreau fut
+seul frappe. Un boulet lui fraccassa le genou droit et a travers le
+flanc du cheval alla emporter le gros de la jambe gauche. Le genereux
+Alexandre versa des larmes. Le Colonel Rapatel se precipitait sur son
+General. Moreau poussa un long soupir et s'evanouit. Revenu a lui meme,
+il parle avec le plus grand sang froid, et dit a Monsieur Rapatel, "Je
+suis perdu, mon ami, mais il est si glorieux de mourir pour une si belle
+cause, et sous les yeux d'un aussi grand Prince." Peu d'instants apres
+il dit a l'Empereur Alexandre lui meme, "Il ne vous reste que le
+tronc--mais le coeur y est, et la tete est a vous." Il doit souffrir des
+douleurs aigus--il demanda une cigare et se mit tranquillement a fumer.
+
+"Mons. Wylie, premier chirurgien de l'Empereur Alexandre, se hata
+d'amputer la jambe qui etait la plus mal traitee. Pendant cette cruelle
+operation, Moreau montra a peine quelque alteration dans ses traits et
+ne cessa point de fumer la cigarre. L'amputation faite, Monsieur Wylie
+examina la jambe droite, et la trouva dans un tel etat qu'il ne peut se
+defendre d'un mouvement d'effroi. "Je vous entend," dit Moreau, "Il faut
+encore couper celle ci, eh bien, faites vite. Cependant j'eusse prefere
+la mort." Il voulait ecrire a sa femme. Il ecrivait donc d'une main
+assez ferme ces propres expressions. "Ma chere amie,--La bataille se
+decide il y a trois jours.--J'ai eu les deux jambes emportees d'un
+boulet de canon--ce coquin de Bonaparte est toujours hereux. On m'a
+fait l'amputation aussi bien que possible--l'armee a faite un mouvement
+retrograde, ce n'est pas par revers, mais par decousu et pour se
+rapprocher au General Blucher. Excuse mon griffonage. Je t'aime et
+t'embrasse de tout mon coeur. Je charge Rapatel de finir."
+
+"Tout a l'heure il dit: "Je ne suis pas sans danger, je le sais bien,
+mais si je meurs, si une fin prematuree m'enleve a une femme, a une
+fille aimee; a mon pays que je voulais servir malgre lui meme; n'oubliez
+pas de dire, aux Francais qui vous parleront de moi, que je meurs avec
+le regret de n'avoir pas accompli mes projets. Pour affranchir ma patrie
+du joug affreux qui l'opprime pour ecraser Bonaparte, toutes les armes,
+tous les moyens etaient bons. Avec quelle joie j'aurai consacre le peu
+de talent que je possede a la cause de l'humanite! Mon coeur appartenoit
+a la France."
+
+"Vers sept heurs le malade se trouvant seul avec Monsieur Svinine lui
+dit d'une voix affaiblie--" Je veux absolument vous dicter une
+lettre.--Monsieur Svinine prit la plume en gemissant et traca ce peu de
+lignes sous la dictee de Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--Je descends dans le tombeau avec les memes sentiments de
+respect, d'admiration, et de devouement que votre Majeste m'a
+constamment inspire, des que j'ai eu le bohheur de m'approcher de votre
+personne."
+
+"En pronocant ces derniers mots, le malade s'interompit et ferma les
+yeux M. Svinine attendit, croyant que Moreau meditait sur la suite de sa
+depeche--Vain espoir--Moreau n'etait plus."[39]
+
+I am impatient to finish the character of Napoleon, and to get upon some
+other more agreeable subject. I shall end by giving an account of his
+last appearance in France, as related to me by the Sub-Prefect of Aix,
+who accompanied him on his way from Aix to the coast.--After passing
+Montlement, the public feeling began to burst forth against him. The
+spirit of the Provencals could not be restrained. In every village was
+displayed the white cockade, and the fleur de lis. In one, the villagers
+were employed at the moment of his passing in hanging him in effigy; at
+another they compelled him to call out Vive le Roi, and he obeyed them,
+while his attendants refused. For a part of the way he was forced to
+mount a little poney in the dress of an Austrian officer. Arrived at the
+village of La Calade, the following extraordinary scene passed at the
+inn--It was also related to me by our banker, who had it from the
+hostess herself: The landlord was called for, and a mean-looking figure
+in plain clothes, with a travelling-cap, and loose blue pantaloons,
+asked him if he could have dinner for twenty persons who were coming.
+"Yes, (said the landlord), if you take what fare I have; but I trust it
+is not for that _coquin_ the Emperor, whom we expect soon here." "No,
+(said he), it is only for a part of his suite.--Bring here some wine,
+and let the people be well served when they arrive." Presently the
+landlady entered with the wine, a fine, bold Provencal, and a decided
+royalist, as all the Provencal snow are. [40]"Ecoutez, bonne femme, vous
+attendez l'Empereur n'est pas?" 'Oui, Monsieur, j'espere que nous le
+verrons?' "Eh bien, bonne femme, vous autres que dites vous de
+l'Empereur?" 'Qu'il est un grand coquin.' "Eh! ma bonne femme, et vous
+meme que dites vous?" 'Monsieur, voulez vous que je vous dise
+franchment ce que je pense: Si j'etais le capitaine du vaisseau, je ne
+l'embarquerai que pour le noyer."
+
+The stranger said nothing. After an hour or two, the landlord asked his
+wife if she would like to see Bonaparte, for that he was arrived. She
+was all anxiety to see him. He took her up stairs, and pointed to the
+little man in the travelling cap. The surprise of the woman may be
+conceived. The Emperor made her approach, and said to her she was a good
+woman; but that there were many things told of Bonaparte which were not
+true.
+
+I shall continue the Sub-Prefect's narrative in his own words:--[41]"Les
+Commissaires, en arrivant a Calade, le trouvoient la tete appuyee sur
+les deux mains, et le visage baigne de larmes. Il leur dit qu'on en
+voulait decidement a sa vie; que la maitresse de l'auberge, qui ne
+l'avait pas reconnu lui avait declare que l'Empereur etait deteste comme
+un scelerat, et qu'on ne l'embarquerait que pour le noyer. Il ne
+voulait rien manger ni boire quelque instances qu'on lui fit, et
+quoiqu'il dut etre rassure par l'example de ceux qui etaient a table
+avec lui. Il fit venir de la voiture du pain et de l'eau qu'il prit avec
+avidite. On attendait la nuit pour continuer la route; on n'etait qu'a
+deux lieues d'Aix. La population de cette ville n'eut pas ete aussi
+facile a contenir que celle des villages ou on avait deja couru tant de
+perils. Monsieur, le Sous-Prefet, prenant avec lui le Lieutenant des
+gend'armes et six gend'armes, se mit en route vers la Calade. La nuit
+etait obscure, et le temps froid; cette double circonstance protegea
+Napoleon beaucoup mieux que n'aurait fait la plus forte escorte. Mons.
+le Sous-Prefet et la gend'armerie rencontrerent le cortege peu
+d'instants apres avoir quitte la Calade, et la suivoient jusqu'a ce
+qu'ils arriverent aux portes d'Aix a deux heures du matin. Apres avoir
+change les chevaux, Bonaparte continuant sa route, passa sous les murs
+de la ville, au milieu des cris repetes de "Vive le Roi," que firent
+entendre les habitants accourus sur les remparts. Il arriva a la limite
+du departement a une auberge appellee la Grande Prgere, ce fut la qu'il
+s'arreta pour dejeuner. Le General Bertrand proposa a Mons. le
+Sous-Prefet de monter, avant que de partir, dans la chambre des
+Commissaires ou tout le monde etait a dejeuner. Il y avoit dix ou douzes
+personnes. Napoleon etait du nombre; il avait son costume d'officier
+Autrichien, et une casque sur la tete. Voyant le Sous-Prefet an habit
+d'auditeur, il lui dit, "Vous ne m'auriez pas reconnu sons ce costume?
+Ce sont ces Messieurs qui me l'ont fait prendre, le jugeant necessaire a
+ma surete. J'aurais pu avoir une escorte de trois mille homines, qui
+j'ai refuse, preferant de me fier a la loyaute Francaise. Je n'ai pas eu
+a me plaindre de cette confiance depuis Fontainbleau jusqu'a Avignon;
+mais depuis cette ville jusqu'ici j'ai ete insulte,--j'ai couru bien de
+dangers. Les Provencaux se dishonnerent. Depuis qui je suis en France je
+n'ai pas eu un bon battaillon de Provenceaux sous mes ordres. Ils ne
+sont bons que pour crier. Les Gascons sont fanfarons, mais au moins ils
+sont braves." Sur ces paroles, un des convives, qui etait sans dout
+Gascon, tira son jabot et dit en riant, "Cela fait plaisir."
+
+Bonaparte continuant a s'addresser an Sous-Prefet, lui dit, "Que fait le
+Prefet?" 'Il est parti a la premiere nouvelle du changement survenu a
+Paris.' "Et sa femme?" 'Elle etait partie plutot.'--"Elle avait donc
+prit le devant. Paie l'on bien les octrois et les droits reunis?"--'Pas
+un sou.'--"Y-a-t-il beaucoup d'Anglais a Marseilles?" Ici Mons. le
+Sous-Prefet raconta a Bonaparte tout ce qui s'etait passe naguere dans
+ce port, et avec quels transports on avait accueilli les Anglais.
+Bonaparte, qui ne prenait pas grand plaisir a ce recit y mit fin en
+disant au Sous-Prefet, "Dites a vos Provencaux que l'Empereur est bien
+mecontent d'eux."
+
+Arrive a Bouilledon, il se s'enferma dans ua apartment avec sa soeur
+(Pauline Borghese)--Des sentinels furent places a la porte. Cependant
+des dames arrivees dans un galerie qui communiquait avec cette chambre,
+y trouverent un militaire en uniform d'officier Autrichien, qui leur
+dit, "Que desirez vous voir, Mesdames?" 'Nous voudrions voir Napoleon.'
+"Mais ce'st moi, Mesdames." Ces dames le regardant lui dirent en riant,
+'Vous plaisantez, Monsieur; ce n'est pas vous qui etes Napoleon.' "Je
+vous assure, Mesdames, ce'st moi. Vous vous imaginez donc que Napoleon
+avait l'air plus mechant. N'est pas qu'on dit que je suis un scelerat,
+un brigand?" Les dames n'eurent garde de le dementir, Bonaparte ne
+voulant pas trop les presser sur ce point detourna le conversation. Mais
+toujours occupe de sa premier idee, il y revint brasquement: "Convenez
+en Mesdames, leur dit il, maintenant que la Fortune m'est contraire, on
+dit que je suis un coquin, un scelerat, un brigand. Mais savez vous ce
+que c'est que tout cela? J'ai voula mettre la France au dessus de
+l'Angleterre, et j'ai echoue dans ce projet."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+STATE OF FRANCE UNDER NAPOLEON--CONTINUED.
+
+
+AGRICULTURE.
+
+
+To one unacquainted with the present division of society, and the
+condition of each of its branches in France; to one who had only cast
+his eye, in travelling, over the immense tracts of cultivated land, with
+scarcely an acre of waste to diversify the scene, and who had permitted
+first impressions to influence his judgement, it might appear, that in
+agriculture, France far excelled every other country in the world. In
+England, we have immense tracts of common in many of the counties;--in
+Scotland; we have our barren hills, our mosses, and moors;--in America,
+the cultivation bears but a small proportion to the wilds, the swamps,
+and the forests. In our beautiful provinces in the East Indies, the
+cultivation forms but a speck in the wide extent of common, and forest,
+and jungle. Why should France furnish a different spectacle? Why should
+the face of the country there wear a continual smile, while its very
+heart is torn with faction, and its energies fettered by tyranny? There
+are many who maintain that this state of the country is the happy effect
+of the revolution; but it will, I conceive, not be difficult to shew,
+that though certainly a consequence of the great change, it is far from
+being a happy one. We surely would not pronounce it a happy state of
+things, where the interests of all other branches of the community were
+sacrificed to promote the welfare of the peasantry alone.
+
+The peasantry, no doubt, when their rights are preserved to them, as
+they are the most numerous, so they become the most important members of
+a civil society. "Although," as is well observed by Arthur Young, "they
+be disregarded by the superficial, or viewed with contempt by the vain,
+they will be placed, by those who judge of things not by their external
+appearance, but by their intrinsic worth, as the most useful class of
+mankind; their occupations conduce not only to the prosperity, but to
+the very existence of society; their life is one unvaried course of
+hardy exertion and persevering toil. The vigour of their youth is
+exhausted by labour, and what are the hopes and consolations of their
+age? Sickness may deprive them of the opportunity of providing the least
+supply for the declining years of life, and the gloomy confinement of a
+work-house, or the scanty pittance of parochial help, are their only
+resources. By their condition may be estimated the real prosperity of a
+country; the real opulence, strength, and security of the public are
+proportionate to the comfort which they enjoy, and their wretchedness is
+a _sure criterion of a bad administration_."
+
+I have quoted this passage at length, in order that I might shew that
+France supplies us in this case, as in many others, with a wide
+exception from those general rules in politics which time and experience
+had long sanctioned. We shall in vain look at the state of the peasantry
+of that country as affording a criterion of the situation of any other
+branch of the community. It did not remain concealed from the deep and
+penetrating eye of Napoleon, that if the peasantry of a country were
+supported, and their condition improved, any revolution might be
+effected; any measure, however tyrannical, provided it did not touch
+them, might be executed with ease. For the sake of the peasantry, we
+shall perceive that the yeomanry, the farmers, the _bourgeoisie_, the
+nobility, were allowed to dwindle into insignificance. His leading
+principle was never to interfere with their properties, however they may
+have been obtained; and he invariably found, that if permitted to enjoy
+these, they calmly submitted to taxation, furnished recruits for his
+conscription, and supported him in every measure.
+
+In tracing the causes and effects of the various revolutions which take
+place among civilized nations, political writers have paid too little
+attention to the effects of property. France affords us an interesting
+field for investigation on this interesting question; but the narrow
+limits of our work will not admit of our indulging in such speculations.
+We cannot, however, avoid remarking by the way, that the facility of
+effecting a revolution in the government of France, so often shewn of
+late, has arisen, in a great measure, from this state of the property
+of the peasantry. Under the revolution they gained this property, and
+they respected and supported the revolutionists. Under Napoleon, their
+property was respected, and they bore with him, and admired him. Louis
+commenced by encouraging them in the idea that their rights would be
+respected, and they remained quiet:--his Ministers commenced their plans
+of restoring to the noblesse their estates, and the King immediately
+lost the affections of the peasantry. They welcomed Napoleon a second
+time, because they knew his principles: They have again welcomed their
+King, because they are led to suppose that experience has changed the
+views of his Ministers: but they suspect him, and on the first symptom
+of another change they will join in his expulsion.
+
+The nobility, the great landed proprietors, the yeomanry, the lesser
+farmers, all the intermediate ranks who might oppose a check to the
+power of a tyrannical prince, are nearly annihilated. The property of
+these classes, but more particularly of the nobility, has been
+subdivided and distributed among the peasants; become their own, it has,
+no doubt, been much better managed, for it is their immediate interest
+that not an acre of waste ground should remain. They till it with their
+own hands, and, without any intermediate agents, they draw the profits.
+Lands thus managed, must, of course, be found in a very different state
+from those whose actual proprietor is perhaps never on the spot, who
+manages through stewards, bailiffs, and other agents, and whose rank
+prevents the possibility of his assisting, or even superintending, the
+labour of his peasantry.
+
+Having shewn the causes of the present appearance of France, we must
+describe the effects, by presenting to our readers the picture which was
+every where before our eyes in traversing the country. The improvement
+in agriculture, or to speak literally, in the method of tilling the
+soil, is by no means great. The description of the methods pursued, and
+of the routine of crops, given by Arthur Young, corresponds very exactly
+with what we saw. It may be observed, however, that the ploughing is
+rather more neat, and the harrowing more regular. To an English eye both
+of these operations would appear most superficial; but it ought to be
+considered, that here nature does almost every thing, little labour is
+necessary, and in many parts of the country manure is never used: but
+the defect in the quality of the cultivation is somewhat compensated by
+the quantity. Scarce an acre of land which would promise to reward the
+cultivator will be found untilled. The plains are covered with grain,
+and the most barren hills are formed into vineyards. And it will
+generally be found, that the finest grapes are the produce of the most
+dry, stony, and seemingly barren hills. It is in this extension of the
+cultivation that we trace the improvement; but there must also be some
+considerable change for the better, though not in the same degree, in
+the method of cultivation, which is demonstrated by the fact, that a
+considerable rise has taken place in the rent and price of land. In many
+places it has doubled within the last twenty-five years; an _arpent_ now
+selling for 1000 francs, which was formerly sold for 500.
+
+It is, however, extraordinary, that these improvements have, as yet,
+only shewn their influence in the dress of the peasantry, and no where
+in the comfort or neatness of their houses. Between Calais and Paris,
+their houses are better than we found them afterwards on our way to the
+south. In that direction, also, they were almost invariably well
+clothed, having over their other clothes (and not as a substitute for a
+coat) a sort of blue linen frock, which had an appearance of attention
+to dress, not to be seen in other parts of the country, for the
+peasantry in most other parts, though neatly clothed, presented, in the
+variety of their habits and costumes, a very novel spectacle. The large
+tails, which give them so military an appearance, and impress us with
+the idea that they have _marched_, are by no means a proof of this
+circumstance; for we were informed, that the first thing done in most
+instances, was to deprive the conscripts of their superabundant hair.
+But the long tail and the cocked hat, are worn in imitation of the
+higher orders of older time. It is indeed a sight of the most amusing
+kind to the English eye, to behold a French peasant at his work, in
+velvet coat and breeches, powdered hair, and a cocked hat. But we do not
+mean to give this as the usual dress of the peasants, although we have
+frequently met with it. Their dress is very often as plain, neat, and
+sufficient, as their houses are the reverse.
+
+In Picardy, the luxuriant fruit-trees which surround the cottages and
+houses, give an appearance of comfort, which is not borne out by the
+actual state of the houses on a nearer inspection. Near Laon, and
+towards the frontiers of French Flanders, the condition of the peasantry
+appeared exceedingly comfortable. Their dress was very neat, and their
+houses much more substantial, and, in some parts, ornament was added to
+strength. In this district, the people had the advantage of being
+employed in the linen manufacture in their own houses, besides their
+ordinary agricultural occupations; and their condition reminded us of
+the effects of this intermixture of occupations presented by a view of
+Clydesdale in Scotland, or of the West Riding of Yorkshire.
+
+Towards Fontainbleau, and to the east of Paris, on the road of Soissons,
+the peasantry inhabit the old villages, or rather little towns, and no
+cottages are to be seen on the lands. No gardens are attached to the
+houses in these towns. The houses have there an appearance of age, want
+of repair, and a complete stagnation of commerce. And even the peasantry
+there seemed considerably reduced, but they were always well dressed,
+and by no means answered Arthur Young's description. Still their houses
+denoted great want of comfort; very little furniture was to be seen, and
+that either of the very coarsest kind, or of the gaudy and gilded
+description, which shewed whence it came. The intermixture is hideous.
+In the parts of the country above named; the food often consisted of
+bread and pork, and was better than what we found in the south. But
+even here, the small number of pigs, the poor flocks of sheep, and,
+indeed, the absence of any species of pasture for cattle, demonstrated
+that there was not a general or extensive consumption of animal food or
+the produce of the dairy.
+
+The little demand for butcher meat, or the produce of pasture, is
+probably, as Arthur Young has hinted, one great cause of the continuance
+of the fallow system of husbandry in France; for where there is no
+consumption of these articles, it is impossible that a proper rotation
+of crops can be introduced.
+
+In noticing the causes of the decided improvement in the condition of
+the peasantry, we may observe in passing, that the great consumption of
+human life, during the revolution, and more particularly under
+Napoleon's conscription, must have considerably bettered the condition
+of those who remained, and who were able for work, by increasing the
+price of labour.
+
+The industry of the peasants in every part of the country, cannot be
+sufficiently praised--it as remarkable as the apathy and idleness of
+tradesmen and artificers. Every corner of soil is by them turned to
+account, and where they have gardens, they are kept very neat. The
+defects in the cultivation arise, therefore, from the goodness of the
+climate, the ignorance or poverty of the cultivators, or from inveterate
+prejudice.
+
+We must now say a few words with regard to the state of agriculture and
+the condition of the peasantry between Paris and Aix, and more
+especially in the south of France. Here also every acre of land is
+turned to good account, but the method of tilling the land is very
+defective. The improvements in agriculture, in modern times, will be
+found to owe their origin to men of capital, of education, and of
+liberal ideas, and such men are not to be found here. The prejudices and
+the poverty of their ancestors, have not ceased to have their effects in
+the present generation, in retarding the improvement in the tillage, and
+in the farm instruments. They are, in this respect, at least a century
+behind us. From the small subdivisions in many parts of the country,
+each family is enabled to till its own little portion with the spade;
+and where the divisions are larger, and ploughs used, they will
+invariably be found rude, clumsy, enormous masses of wood and iron, weak
+from the unskilfulness of the workmanship, continuing from father to son
+without improvement, because improvement would not only injure their
+purses, but give a deadly wound to that respect and veneration which
+they have for the good old ways of their ancestors. There is endless
+variety in the shape and size of the French plough; but amid the
+innumerable kinds of them, we never had the good fortune to meet one
+good or sufficient instrument.
+
+The use of machinery in the farm-stead is unknown, and grain, as of old,
+is very generally trodden by oxen, sometimes on the sides of the high
+roads, and winnowed by the breath of Heaven.
+
+In the south of France, we met with much more regular enclosure than
+around Paris; but even here, little attention is bestowed in keeping the
+fences in repair. Hedges are, however, less necessary in the south than
+elsewhere; for there is a complete want of live stock of every
+description, and no attention paid to the breeding of it. This want does
+not strike the traveller immediately, because he finds butcher meat
+pretty good in the small towns; excellent in the larger cities, and
+cheap everywhere. But he will find, that France is, in this respect,
+much in the same state with India. Animal food is cheap, because the
+consumption is very limited. In France, but more particularly in the
+south, I should say that not one-sixth of the butcher meat is consumed
+by each man or woman which would be requisite in England. Bread, wine,
+fruit, garlic, onions and oil, with occasionally a small portion of
+animal food, form the diet of the lower orders; and among the higher
+ranks, the method of cooking makes a little meat go a great way. The
+immense joints of beef and mutton, to which we are accustomed in
+England, were long the wonder of the French; but latterly, they have
+begun to introduce (among what they humorously term _plats de
+resistance_) these formidable dishes.
+
+Excepting in the larger towns, butcher meat, particularly beef and
+mutton, is generally ill fed. In the part of the south, where we resided
+during the winter, the beef was procured from Lyons, a distance of above
+200 miles. In the south, the breed of cattle of every description is
+small and stinted, and unless when pampered up for the market, they are
+generally very poor and ill fed. The traveller is everywhere struck with
+the difference between the English and French horses, cows, pigs, sheep,
+&c. and in more than the half of France, he will find, for the reasons
+formerly assigned, an almost total want of attention to these useful
+animals among the farmers. At Aix, where we were situated, there was
+only one cow to be found. Our milk was supplied by goats and sheep; and
+all the butter consumed there, excepting a very small quantity made from
+goat's milk, was also brought from Lyons. This want is not so much felt
+in Provence; because, for their cookery, pastry, &c. they use olive oil,
+which, when fresh, is very pleasant.
+
+The want of barns, sheds, granaries, and all other farm buildings, is
+very conspicuous in the south. The dairy is there universally neglected,
+and milk can only be had early in the morning, and then in very small
+quantity; nay, the traveller may often journey a hundred miles in the
+south of France without being able to procure milk at all; this we
+ourselves experienced. The eye is nowhere delighted with the sight of
+rich and flourishing farm-steads, nor do the abundant harvests of France
+make any shew in regular farm-yards. All the wealth of the peasantry is
+concealed. Each family hides the produce of their little estate within
+their house. An exhibition of their happy condition would expose them to
+immediate spoliation from the tax-officers. In our own happy country,
+the rich farm-yard, the comfortable dwelling-house of the farmer, and
+the neat smiling cottage of the labourer, call down on the possessors
+only the applause and approbation of his landlord, of his neighbours,
+and of strangers. They raise him in the general opinion. In France, they
+would prove his ruin.
+
+To conclude these few observations on the state of agriculture, we may
+remark, that the revolution has certainly tended greatly to promote the
+extension of the cultivation, by throwing the property of the lands into
+the hands of the peasantry, who are the actual cultivators, and also by
+removing the obstructions occasioned by the seignorial rights, the
+titles, game laws, corvees; yet I think there cannot be a doubt, that,
+aided by capital, and by the more liberal ideas of superior farmers
+benefiting by the many new and interesting discoveries in modern
+agriculture, France might, without that terrible convulsion, have shewn
+as smiling an aspect, and the science of agriculture been much further
+advanced.
+
+If, by the revolution, the situation of the peasantry be improved, we
+must not forget, on the other hand, that to effect this improvement, the
+nobility, gentry, yeomanry, and, we might almost add, farmers, have been
+very generally reduced to beggary. The restraint which the existence of
+these orders ever opposed to the power of a bad king, of a tyrant, or of
+an adventurer, might have remained, and all have been happier, better,
+and richer than they are now.
+
+* * *
+
+
+_COMMERCE._
+
+It was probably the first wish of Napoleon's heart, as it was also his
+wisest policy, that the French should become entirely a military, not a
+commercial nation. Under his government, the commerce of France was
+nearly annihilated. It was however necessary, that at times he should
+favour the commercial interest of the towns in the interior, from which
+he drew large supplies of money, and his constant enmity against the
+sea-port towns of Marseilles and Bourdeaux, induced him to encourage the
+interior commerce of France, to the prejudice of the maritime trade of
+these ports. Under Napoleon, Paris, Lyons, Rouen, and most of the large
+towns which carried on this interior commerce, were lately in a
+flourishing state. In these towns, if not beloved, he was at least
+tolerated, and they wished for no change of government. But at
+Marseilles, and at Bourdeaux, he was detested, and a very strong
+royalist party existed, which caused him constant annoyance. At
+Bourdeaux, it may be recollected, that the Bourbons were received with
+open arms, and that that town was the first to open its gates to the
+allies. It was also among the last that held out. I was in that town
+while the royalist party were still powerful, while every thing shewed a
+flourishing commerce, while the people were happy; the wine trade was
+daily enriching the inhabitants, and they blessed the return of peace,
+and of their lawful princes. In two days the face of things was changed.
+A party of soldiers, 300 strong, were dispatched by Napoleon, under the
+command of General Clausel. The troops of the line here, as everywhere
+else, betrayed their trust, and joined the rebels, and Bourdeaux was
+delivered up to the spoiler.
+
+Never was there a more melancholy spectacle than that now afforded by
+the inhabitants of this city. You could not enter a shop where you did
+not find the owners in tears. We were then all hastening to leave
+France. They embraced us, and prayed that our army might soon be among
+them to restore peace and the Bourbons. Here I am convinced that
+Bonaparte is hated by all but the military. Yet what could a town like
+Bourdeaux effect, when its own garrison betrayed it?
+
+Besides the bad effects of Bonaparte's policy on the commerce of France,
+I must notice the wide influence of another cause, which was the natural
+result of the revolution. Although at first an attack was only made
+against the noblesse, yet latterly, every rich and powerful family was
+included among the proscribed, and all the commercial houses of the
+first respectability were annihilated. These have never been replaced,
+and the upstart race of petty traders have not yet obtained the
+confidence of foreigners. The trade of France is therefore very
+confined; and even were opportunities now afforded of establishing a
+trade with foreign nations, it would be long before France could benefit
+by it, from the total want of established and creditable houses.
+
+The manifest signs of the decay of commerce in France cannot escape the
+observation of the traveller, more especially if he has been in the
+habit of travelling in England. The public diligences are few in number,
+and most miserably managed. It is difficult to say whether the
+carriage, the horses, or the harness, gives most the idea of meanness.
+Excepting in the neighbourhood of large towns, you meet with not a cart,
+or waggon, for twenty that the same distance would show in England. The
+roads are indeed excellent in most parts; but this is not in France, as
+in most countries, a proof of a flourishing commerce. It is for the
+conveyance of military stores, and to facilitate the march of the
+troops, that the police are required to keep the roads in good repair.
+The villages and towns throughout France, are in a state of dilapidation
+from want of repair. No new houses, shops, and warehouses building, as
+we behold every where in England. None of that hurry and bustle in the
+streets, and on the quays of the sea-port towns, which our blessed
+country can always boast. The dress of the people, their food, their
+style of living, their amusements, their houses, all bespeak extreme
+poverty and want of commerce.
+
+I was at some pains in ascertaining whether, in many of their
+manufactures, they were likely to rival us or injure our own.--I cannot
+say I have found one of consequence. There are indeed one or two
+articles partially in demand among us, in which the French have the
+superiority; silks, lace, gloves, black broad cloth, and cambric are
+the chief among them. The woollen cloths in France are extremely
+beautiful, and the finer sorts, I think, of a superior texture to any
+thing we have in England; but the price is always double, and sometimes
+treble of what they sell for at home, so that we have not much to fear
+from their importations. Few of the French can afford to wear these fine
+cloths.
+
+French watches are manufactured at about one half of the English price;
+but the workmanship is very inferior to ours, and unless as trinkets for
+ladies' wear, they do not seem much in estimation in England. The
+cutlery in France is wretched. Not only the steel, but the temper and
+polish, are far inferior to ours. A pair of English razors is, to this
+day, a princely present in France. Hardware is flimsy, ill finished, and
+of bad materials. All leather work, such as saddlery, harness, shoes,
+&c. is wretchedly bad, but undersells our manufactures of the same kind
+by about one half. Cabinet work and furniture is handsome, shewy,
+insufficient, and dear. Jewellery equal, if not superior to ours in
+neatness, but not so sufficient. Hats and hosiery very indifferent. In
+glass ware we greatly excel the French, except in the manufacture of
+mirrors. Musical instruments of all descriptions are made as well, and
+at half the English price, in France. In every thing else, not here
+mentioned, as far as my memory serves me, I think I may report the
+manufactures of France greatly inferior to those in England. I have
+sometimes heard it stated, that in the manufacture of calicoes, muslins,
+and other cotton goods, the French are likely to rival us. On this
+subject I was not able to obtain the information I wished for, but one
+fact I can safely mention, the price of all these goods is at present,
+in most parts of France, nearly double what it is in England or
+Scotland, and their machinery is not to be compared with our own.
+
+* * *
+
+_WEALTH OF THE NATION AND ITS DIVISION._
+
+To the traveller in France, every thing seems to denote extreme poverty,
+and that extending its influence over all ranks of society; and
+certainly, compared with England, France is wretchedly poor. But many of
+its resources remain hidden, and it is certain, that on the demands of
+its despotic ruler, France produced unlooked-for supplies. His wars have
+now greatly exhausted this hidden treasure, and there is, fortunately
+for the peace of the world, very little money left in the country. The
+marks of the wealth of the country, both absolutely, and in relation to
+other countries, are to be found in the manner of living, and extent of
+fortunes of its inhabitants; in the size, comfort, and style of their
+houses; in their dress and amusements; in the price of labour; the
+salaries of office; the trade and commerce of the country; the number of
+country houses, of banks, &c. In examining each of these heads, we shall
+find that France is a very poor country.
+
+The sum of two thousand pounds a-year is reckoned a noble fortune in
+France, and very, very few, there are that possess that sum.
+
+One thousand pounds a-year constitutes a handsome fortune for a
+gentleman; and four hundred for a _bourgeois_, or for one employed in
+trade or commerce. Few of the nobility are now possessed of fortunes
+sufficient to maintain a carriage; and none under the rank of princes,
+in France, have _now_ more than one carriage.
+
+The style of living is wretched: only the first, and richest houses, can
+afford to entertain company, and those but seldom. It requires a large
+fortune to maintain a regular cook; in half the houses they have only a
+dirty scullion, who, among her other work, cooks the dinner. In the
+other half, a traiteur sends in the dinner; or if a bachelor, the master
+of the house dines at a _table d'hote_, as a _pensionaire_.
+
+The interior management of the French houses denotes extreme poverty.
+Some few articles of splendid furniture are displayed for shew in one or
+two rooms, while the rest of the house is shut up, and left dirty and
+ill furnished.
+
+Of their dress and amusements I have already said enough, to shew that
+they denote poverty, and I shall say more when I come to the French
+character.
+
+The price of labour is far lower than what we are used to, fluctuating
+from fifteen to twenty pence a-day. The salaries of office are,
+throughout France, not above one-third what they are in England. Of the
+want of trade and commerce I have already spoken. The public banks are
+very few in number, and only to be found in very large and commercial
+towns. Country houses and fine estates, there are none, or where they
+are found, it is in a state of dilapidation.
+
+Where, then, is the wealth of France? I was at some pains to solve this
+question. The remaining wealth of France is divided among the generals
+of Napoleon; the army furnishers and contractors; the prefects,
+sub-prefects; the numerous receivers and collectors of taxes; and,
+lastly, but chiefly, the peasantry. It may appear strange to those who
+are not acquainted with the present state of France, that I have
+mentioned the peasants among the richest; but I am convinced of the
+fact. The peasants in France have divided among themselves the lands and
+property of the emigrants. Napoleon drew supplies from them; but very
+politically maintained them in their possessions. Their condition, and
+the condition of the lands, shew them to be in easy circumstances. They
+are well clothed, and abundantly, though poorly fed.
+
+France is, in fine, a very poor country, compared with our own; but it
+is not without resources, and its wealth will remain concealed as long
+as it is under Napoleon; for whoever shewed wealth, was by him marked
+out as an object of plunder. By allowing unlimited power to his
+emissaries and spies, he was able to discover where the wealth lay, and
+by vesting the same power in his prefects, sub-prefects, receivers, and
+gend'armes, he seized on it when discovered. In the public prints,
+previous to his downfall, we may observe almost continually the thanks
+of Government to the farmers, proprietors, and others, for _their
+patriotic exertions in supplying horses, grain, &c._ In these cases, the
+_patriotic farmers_ had bands of gend'armerie stationed over them, who
+drove away their horses, their cattle and grain, without the hope even
+of payment or redress of any kind. Nothing denotes more the poverty of
+the country, than the want of horses, of cows, and all kinds of live
+stock.
+
+In no country in the world is there found so great a number of beggars
+as in France; and yet there are not wanting in every town establishments
+for the maintenance of the poor. These beggars are chiefly from among
+the manufacturing classes; the families of soldiers and labourers. The
+peasants are seldom reduced to this state, or when reduced, they are
+succoured by their fellow peasants, and do not beg publicly. The
+national poverty has had the worst effects on the French character; in
+almost every station in life they will be found capable of meanness.
+What can be more disgusting, than to see people of fashion and family
+reduced to the necessity of letting to strangers their own rooms, and
+retiring into garrets and other dirty holes--demanding exorbitant
+prices, and with perfect indifference taking half or a third--higgling
+for every article they purchase--standing in dirty wrappers at their
+doers, seeing the wood weighed in the street, on terms of familiarity
+with tradesmen and their own servants. All this you see in France daily;
+but on this subject I have elsewhere made observations.
+
+As connected with this part of the subject, a few words must be said on
+the condition of the towns and villages; for although I had at first
+intended to treat this, and the situation of the different ranks, as
+separate subjects; yet they seem to come in more naturally at present,
+when speaking of the wealth of France and its division. The towns
+throughout France, as well as the villages, particularly in the south,
+have an appearance of decay and dilapidation. The proprietors have not
+the means of repair. It is customary (I suppose from the heat of the
+climate), to build the houses very large; to repair a French house,
+therefore, is very expensive: and it will generally be seen, that in
+most, houses only one or two rooms are kept in repair, and furnished,
+while the rest of the house is crumbling to pieces. This is the case
+with all the great houses; in those of the common people we should
+expect more comfort, as they are small, and do not need either expensive
+repair or gay furniture; but comfort is unknown in France. On entering a
+small house in one of the villages, we find the people huddled together
+as they are said to do in some parts of England and Scotland. Men,
+women, dogs, cats, pigs, goats, &c.--no glass in the windows--doors
+shattered--truckle-beds--a few earthen pots; and with all this filth, we
+find, perhaps, half a dozen velvet or brocade covered chairs; a broken
+mirror, or a marble slab-table; these are the articles plundered in
+former days of terror and revolution. All caffes and hotels in the
+villages are thus furnished.
+
+The streets in almost every town in France are without pavement. Would
+any one believe, that in the great city, as the French call it, there is
+a total want of this convenience? On this subject, Mercier, in his
+Tableaux de Paris, has this remark: [42]"Des qu'on est sur le pave de
+Paris, ou voit que le peuple n'y fait pas les loix;--aucune commodite
+pour les gens de pied--point de trottoirs--le peuple semble un corps
+separe des autres ordres de l'etat--les riches et les grands qui ont
+equipage ont le droit de l'ecraser ou de le mutiler dans les rues--cent
+victimes expirent par annee sous les rues des voiture."
+
+Besides the want of pavement to protect us from the carriages, and to
+keep our feet dry, we have to encounter the mass of filth and dirt,
+which the nastiness of the inhabitants deposits, and which the police
+suffers to remain. The state of Edinburgh in its worst days, as
+described by our English neighbours, was never worse than what you meet
+with in France. The danger of walking the streets at night is very
+great, and the perfumes of Arabia do not prevail in the morning.
+
+The churches in all the villages are falling to ruin, and in many
+instances are converted into granaries, barracks, and hospitals;
+manufacturing establishments are also in ruins, scarcely able to
+maintain their workmen; their owners have no money for the repair of
+their buildings. The following description of the changes that have
+taken place in the French villages, is better than any thing I can give;
+and from what I have seen, it is perfectly correct:
+
+[43]"Avant la revolution, le village se composait de quatre mille
+habitans. Il fournissait pour sa part, au service general de l'Eglise et
+des hopitaux, ainsi qu'aux besoins de l'instruction cinq eclesiastiques,
+deux soeurs de la charite, et trois maitres d'ecol. Ces derniers sont
+remplace par un maitre d'equitation, un maitre de dessin et deux maitres
+de musique. Sur huit fabriques d'etoffes de laisne et de coton, il ne
+reste plus qu'une seule. En revanche il s'est etabli deux caffes, un
+tabaque, un restaurat, et un billiard qui prosperent d'une maniere
+surprenante. On comptait autrefois quarante charretiers de labour;
+vingt-cinq d'entre eux sont devenus couriers, piqueurs, et coches. Ce
+vuide est remplie par autant de femmes, qui dirigent la charette et qui
+pour se delasser de tems en tems menent au marche des voitures de paille
+ou de charbon. Le nombre de charpentiers, de macons, et d'autres
+artisans est diminue a peu pres de moitie. Mais le prix de tout les
+genres de main d'oeuvre ayant aussi augmente de moitie--cela revient au
+meme--et la compensation se retablit. Une espece d'individus que le
+village fournit en grande abondance, et dans des proportions trop
+fortes ce sont les domestiques de luxe et de livree. Pour peu que cela
+dure on achevera de depeupler le campagne de gens utiles qui le
+cultivent pour peupler les villes d'individus oisifs et corrompus.
+Beaucoup de femmes et de jeunes filles, qui n'etaient que des
+couturiers, et des servantes de femmes, ont aussi trouve de l'avancement
+dans la capitale, et dans les grandes villes. Elles sont devenues femmes
+de chambre--brodeuses--et marchandes des modes. On dirait que le luxe a
+entreprit de pomper la jeunesse; toutes les idees et tous les regards
+sont tournes vers lui a aucun epoque anterieure le contingent du village
+en hommes de loi--huissiers--etudiants en droits, medicins, poetes et
+artistes, ne s'etait eleve au dela de trois ou quatre; il s'eleve
+maintenant a soixante deux, et une chose qu'on n'aurait jamais su
+imaginer autrefois c'est qu'il y a dans le nombre autant de peintres, de
+poetes, de comediens, de danseuses de theatre et de musiciens ambulans,
+qu'une ville de quatre vingt mille hommes aurait pu en fournir il y a
+trente ou quarante ans."
+
+Another mark of the poverty of France at present occurs to me: In every
+town, but particularly in the large cities, we are struck with numbers
+of idle young men and women who are seen in the streets. Now that the
+army no longer carries away the "surplus population of France," (to use
+the language of Bonaparte), the number of these idlers is greatly
+increased. The great manufacturing concerns have long ceased to employ
+them. France is too poor to continue the public works which Napoleon had
+every where begun. The French have no money for the improvement of their
+estates, the repair of their houses, or the encouragement of the
+numerous trades and professions which thrive by the costly taste and
+ever-varying fashion of a luxurious and rich community. Being on the
+subject of taste and fashion, I must not forget that I noticed the dress
+and amusements of the French as offering a mark of their poverty. The
+great meanness of their dress must particularly strike every English
+traveller; for I believe there is no country in the world where all
+ranks of people are so well dressed as in England. It is not indeed
+astonishing to see the nobility, the gentry, and those of the liberal
+professions well clothed, but to see every tradesman, and every
+tradesman's apprentice, wearing the same clothes as the higher orders;
+to see every servant as well, if not better clothed than his master,
+affords a clear proof of the riches of a country. In the higher ranks
+among the French, a gentleman has indeed a good suit of clothes, but
+these are kept for wearing in the evening on the promenade, or at a
+party. In the morning, clothes of the coarsest texture, and often much
+worn, or even ragged, are put on. If you pay a lady or gentleman a
+morning visit, you find them so metamorphosed as scarcely to be known;
+the men in dirty coarse cloth great coats, wide sackcloth trowsers and
+slippers; the women in coarse calico wrappers, with a coloured
+handkerchief tied round their hair. All the little gaudy finery they
+possess is kept for the evening, but even then there is nothing either
+costly or elegant, or neat, as with us. In their amusements also is the
+poverty of the people manifested. A person residing in Paris, and who
+had travelled no further, would think that this observation was unjust,
+for in Paris there is no want of amusements; the theatres are numerous,
+and all other species of entertainment are to be found. But in the
+smaller towns, one little dirty theatre, ill lighted, with ragged
+scenery, dresses, and a beggarly company of players, is all that is to
+be found. The price of admittance is also very low. The poverty of the
+people will not admit of the innumerable descriptions of amusements
+which we find in every little town in England: amateur concerts are
+sometimes got up, but for want of funds they seldom last long. My
+subscription to one of these at the town where we resided, was five
+francs per month, or about a shilling each concert. This may be taken as
+a specimen of the price of French amusements.
+
+
+_STATE OF RELIGION_.
+
+THE order of the priesthood in France had suffered greatly in the
+revolution. They were everywhere scouted and reviled, either for being
+supporters of the throne, or for being rich, or for being _moderes_.
+Napoleon found them in this condition; he never more than tolerated
+them, and latterly, by his open attack and cruel treatment of their
+chief, he struck the last and severest blow against the church. Unable
+to bear the insults of the military, deprived of the means of support,
+many of the clergy either emigrated or concealed themselves. In the
+principal towns, indeed, the great establishments took the oath of
+allegiance to the tyrant; but the inferior clergy and the country
+curates met nowhere with encouragement, and were allowed to starve, or
+to pick up a scanty pittance by teaching schools in a community who
+laughed at education, at morality, and religion.
+
+Many of the churches, convents, and monasteries were demolished; many
+were converted into barracks, storehouses, and hospitals. We saw but
+_one_ village church in our travels through France, and even in the
+larger towns we found the places of public worship in a state of
+dilapidation. I went to see the palace of the Archbishop at Aix; out of
+a suite of most magnificent rooms, about 30 in number, _one miserable
+little chamber was furnished for his highness_. In the rest, the
+grandeur of former days was marked by the most beautiful tapestry on
+some part of the walls, while other parts had been laid bare and daubed
+over with caps of liberty, and groupes of soldiers and guillotines, and
+indecent inscriptions. The nitches for statues, and the frames of
+pictures, were seen empty. The objects which formerly filled them were
+dashed to pieces or burnt.
+
+The conduct of the people at the churches marked the low state of
+religion: the higher ranks talked in whispers, and even at times loudly,
+on their family concerns, their balls and concerts. The peasantry and
+lower ranks behaved with more decency, but seemed to think the service a
+mere form; they came in at all hours, and staid but a few minutes; went
+out and returned.
+
+We had in our small society some very respectable clergymen; but I am
+sorry to say, we had one instance shewing the immoral tendency of the
+celibacy of the clergy.
+
+Very few of the convents remain. I have detailed our visit to one of
+them in my journal; we found every thing decent and well conducted, but
+not with any thing like the strictness and rigour we expected. At Aix
+there was a small establishment of Ursulines, a very strict order; there
+was also a penitentiary establishment of Magdalenes, the rules of which
+were said by the people of Aix to be of the most inhuman nature. The
+caterers for the establishment were ordered to buy only spoilt
+provisions for food; fasting was prescribed for weeks together; and the
+miserable young women lay on boards a foot in breadth, with scarce any
+clothing. Their whole dress, when they went out, consisted of a shift
+and gown of coarsest hard blanket stuff. They were employed in educating
+young children. I once met a party of them walking out with their
+charges, who were chanting hymns and decorating these miserable walking
+skeletons with flowers.
+
+We had also at Aix a very celebrated preacher named De Coq. I went to
+hear him, and, though much struck with his fluency of language, did not
+much admire his style of preaching; there was too much of cant and
+declamation, and at times he made a most intolerable noise, roaring as
+if he were addressing an army. This man, however, succeeded in drawing
+tears from the audience; but this did not surprise me, for it is
+astonishing how easily this is accomplished. This reminds me of a scene
+which I witnessed one evening at the theatre at Aix. We were seated next
+an old Marquise with whom we were acquainted. The tragedy of Merope, and
+particularly the part of the son Egistus, was butchered in a very
+superior style; the Marquise turned to my sister, and said to her, "Oh
+how touching! how does it happen that it does not make you cry? But you
+shall see me cry in a minute; I shall just think of my poor son whom
+Napoleon took for the conscription." She then by degrees worked herself
+up into a fit of tears, and really cried for a pretty tolerable space of
+time. A most amusing soliloquy took place at our house the night before
+the national guard left Aix, in pursuit of Bonaparte. This lady came to
+pay us a visit; and after crying very prettily, she exclaimed, "Oh, the
+_barbare_, he has taken away my son--he has ruined my concert which I
+had fixed for Thursday--we were to have had such music!--and Jule, my
+son, was to have sung; but Jule is gone, perhaps to----_Oh, mon Dieu!
+mon Dieu!_--and I had laid out three hundred pounds in repairing my
+houses at Marseilles, and not one of them will now be let--and I had
+engaged Cipre (a fiddler), for Thursday; and we should have been so
+happy."--But this is a most extraordinary episode to introduce when
+talking of the state of religion.
+
+Some measures taken latterly by the King, seem to have been but ill
+received by the French, and they then shewed how little attention they
+were inclined to pay to religious restraints, which were at variance
+with their interests and their pleasures: I allude to the shutting of
+the theatres and the shops on Sunday. Perhaps, considering the nature of
+their religion, and the long habit which had sanctioned the devoting of
+this day to amusement, the measure was too hasty. Certain it is, that
+neither this measure, nor the celebration of the death of Louis XVI. did
+any good to the Bourbon cause. The last could not fail to awaken many
+disagreeable feelings of remorse and of shame: It was a kind of
+punishment to all who had in any way joined in that horrid event. At
+Aix, the solemn ceremony was repeatedly interrupted by the noise of the
+military. We remarked one man in particular, who continued laughing,
+and beating his musket on the ground. On leaving the church, our
+landlord told us, he was one of those who had led one of the Marseilles
+bands at that time; and that there were in that small community, who had
+assembled in church, more than five or six others of the same
+description. How many of these men must there have been in all France
+whose feelings, long laid asleep, were awakened by such a ceremony!
+
+
+_ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE_.
+
+NAPOLEON'S greatest ambition was to inter-meddle with everything in the
+kingdom. With most of the changes which his restless spirit has
+produced, the French have no great reason to be satisfied; but all
+agree, that with regard to the administration of justice, and the
+courts, for the trial of civil suits in France, the alterations which he
+has introduced, have been ultimately of essential benefit to the
+country. Previous to his accession to the government, the sources of
+equity were universally contaminated, and the influence of corruption
+most deeply felt in every part of the constitution of their courts. On
+the accession of Napoleon to the throne, the most respectable and able
+men among the judges and magistrates were continued in their
+appointments, and the vacancies, occasioned by the dismission of those
+found guilty of corruption, (many of whom had, during the confusions of
+the revolution, actually seized their situations), were supplied, in
+frequent instances, by those of the older nobility, whose characters and
+principles were known and respected. In addition to this, the civil and
+the criminal codes were both carefully revised. In this revisal, the
+greatest legal talents in the nation were employed. The laws of
+different nations, more particularly of England, were brought to
+contribute in the formation of a new code; and by a compilation from the
+Roman, the French and the English law, a new institute, or body of civil
+and criminal justice, was formed, intended for the regulation of the
+whole kingdom. Previous to this change, it must be observed, that the
+laws, in the different provinces of the kingdom, were in some measure
+formed _upon_, and always interwoven _with_, the particular observances
+and customs of their respective provinces; the inevitable consequence
+was, that every province, possessing different usages, had also a
+different code. [44]"La bizarrerie des loix," says Mercier, "et la
+variete des coutumes font que l'avocat le plus savant devient un ignore
+des qu'il se trouve en Gasgogne, ou en Normandie. Il perd a Vernon, un
+proces qu'il avoit gagne a Poissy. Prenez le plus habile pour la
+consultation, et la plaidoyerie, eh bien, il sera oblige d'avoir son
+avocat et son procureur, si on lui intente un proces dans le resort de
+la plupart des autres parlemens." The consequence of this was an
+uncertainty, intricacy, and want of any thing like regulating principles
+in the laws, and an incoherency and inconsistency in the administration
+of both civil and criminal justice.
+
+The improvements introduced by the late Emperor, have therefore,
+considered under this point of view, been of no common benefit to the
+kingdom, as they have given, to some measure, certainty, principle and
+consistency, the essential attributes of good laws, to what was
+formerly a mass of confusion.
+
+At Aix, where we resided, the head court is held for four provinces, and
+there is a college for the study of law and divinity. Most of the
+acquaintances I there formed were gentlemen belonging to the law; many
+of them had been liberally educated, were men of talents, and some of
+them possessed acquirements which would have done honour to any bar. The
+opinion of all these was strongly in favour of the new codes; and they
+go so far as to say, that when the matter comes under consideration,
+there are very few things which the present government will change, and
+very few judges who will lose their situations.
+
+They allowed, however, that latterly, Napoleon had forgotten his usual
+moderation, and, incensed against the importation of foreign
+merchandise, had instituted a court, and formed a new and most rigorous
+code for the trial of all cases of smuggling and contraband trade. But
+fortunately for the people, this court had scarcely commenced its severe
+inflictions, when the deposition of Napoleon, and the subsequent peace
+with England, rendered its continuance unnecessary. The punishments
+awarded by this court, were, in their rigour, infinitely more terrible
+than that of any other in Europe. There was pot the slightest
+proportionment of the punishment to the offence. For the sale of the
+smallest proportion of contraband goods, the unfortunate culprit was
+condemned immediately to eight or ten years labour amongst the
+galley-slaves. For the weightier offences, the importation of larger
+quantities of forbidden goods, perpetual labour, and even death, were
+not unfrequently pronounced.
+
+I was informed, that when Napoleon commanded the Senate to pass the
+decree for the institution of this court, one of the members asked him,
+if he believed he would find Frenchmen capable of executing his orders,
+and enforcing such laws? His answer was, "my salaries will soon find
+judges;" and the consequence of this determination, upon his part, was,
+that while he paid the judges of the other tribunals at Aix by a
+miserable annuity of one hundred and fifty pounds, and two hundred
+pounds, the judges of the court of contraband were ordered to receive
+seven hundred pounds and eight hundred pounds. Napoleon was perfectly
+right in his opinion; that such was the want of honour and principle,
+and such the excessive poverty of France, that these salaries would soon
+find judges. I have heard from unquestionable authority, that, for the
+last vacancy which was filled up in that court, there were ten
+candidates.
+
+The court-room, in which this law tribunal was held, is now occupied by
+a society of musical amateurs, and a concert was given there, during our
+stay at Aix, once every week. One of the lawyers, in talking of this
+court, informed me, that in that very room, where the judges of the
+court of contraband sat, he had played in comedy and tragedy, pleaded
+causes, had taken his part in concerts, and danced at balls, under its
+several revolutions, its different political phases of a theatre, a
+court of justice, a concert and a ball-room. Exactly similar to this was
+the fate of the churches, palaces, and the houses of individuals under
+Napoleon, which were alternately barracks, hospitals, stables, courts of
+justice, _caffes, restaurats_, &c.
+
+The penal code of the late Emperor breathes throughout a spirit of
+humanity, which must astonish every one acquainted with his character.
+The punishment of death, which, according to Blackstone, may be
+inflicted by the English law in one hundred and sixty different
+offences, is now in France confined to the very highest crimes only; the
+number of which does not exceed twelve. A minute attention has been
+paid to the different degrees of guilt in the commission of the same
+crime; and according to these, the punishments are as accurately
+proportioned as the cases will permit. One species of capital punishment
+has been ordained instead of that multitude of cruel and barbarous
+deaths which were marshalled in terrible array along the columns of the
+former code. This punishment is decapitation. The only exception to this
+is in the case of parricide, in which, previous to decapitation, the
+right hand is cut off; and in the punishment for high-treason, in which
+the prisoner is made to walk barefoot, and with a crape veil over his
+head to the scaffold, where he is beheaded. Torture was abolished by
+Louis XVI., and has never afterwards been resumed.
+
+After Napoleon had it in view to form a new code for France, he was at
+great pains to collect together the most upright and honourable, as well
+as the most able amongst the French lawyers; the principal members of
+whom were Tronchet, one of the counsel who spoke boldly and openly in
+defence of the unfortunate Louis XVI., Portalis, Malville, and Bigot de
+Preameneau. Under such superintendance, the work was finished in a short
+time.
+
+The trial by jury has been for some time established in France; but the
+Emperor, dreading that so admirable an institution, if managed with an
+impartial hand might, in too serious a manner, impose restraint upon his
+individual despotism, took particular care to subject those crimes,
+which he dreaded might arise out of the feelings of the public, to the
+cognisance of special tribunals. All trials originating out of the
+conscription, are placed under the care of a special court, composed of
+a certain number of the criminal judges and military officers. In
+France, there is no grand jury; but its place is supplied by that which
+they have denominated the _Jure d'Accusation_. This is a court composed
+of a few members amongst the civil judges, assisted by the
+Procureur-General or Attorney-General. Their juries for the trial of
+criminals are selected from much higher classes in society than with us
+in England; a circumstance the effect of absolute necessity, owing to
+the extreme ignorance of the middling ranks and the lower classes. In
+the conducting of criminal trials, the manner of procedure is in a great
+measure different from our English form. A criminal, when first
+apprehended, is carried, before the magistrate of the town, generally
+the Mayor. He there undergoes repeated examinations; all the witnesses,
+are summoned and examined, in a manner similar to the precognitions
+taken before the Sheriff of Scotland, and the whole process is nearly as
+tedious as upon the trial. All the papers and declarations are then sent
+with the accused, to the _Jure d'Accusation_, who also thoroughly
+examine the prisoner and the witnesses; if grounds are found for the
+trial, the papers are immediately laid before the "_Cour d'Assize_."
+Before this court, the prisoner is again specially examined by its
+president. His former declarations are compared and confronted with his
+present answers, and the strongest evidence against him, is often in
+this manner extracted from his own story. It might certainly be
+imagined, that with all these precautions, it would be scarcely possible
+that the guilty should escape. The very contrary is the case, and I have
+been informed by some of the ablest lawyers in the courts here, that out
+of ten prisoners, really guilty, six haves good chance of getting clear
+off. They ascribe this to two principal causes, 1st, That the
+proceedings become so extremely tedious and intricate, that it is
+impossible for the jury to keep them all in their recollection, and
+that, forgetting the general tenor of the evidence, they suffer the
+last impressions, those made by the counsel for the prisoner, to bias
+their judgment, and to regulate their verdict. In the 2d place, It is
+customary for the president of the court to enter into a long
+examination and cross-examination of the prisoner, (assisted and
+prompted in his questions by the rest of the judges), in a severe and
+peremptory style, and what is too often the case with the judge, in his
+anxiety to condemn, to identify himself with the public prosecutor. He
+appears, in the eye of the jury, more in the light of an interested
+individual, anxious to drag the offender in the most summary manner to
+the punishment of the law, than as an upright and unbiassed judge, whose
+duty it is coolly to consider the whole case, to weigh the evidence of
+the respective witnesses, to consider, with benevolent attention, the
+defence of the prisoner, and, after all this, to pronounce, with
+authoritative impartiality, the sentence of the law. This naturally
+prejudices the jury in favour of the prisoner; and few, even in our own
+country, who may have been witness to the common routine of our criminal
+procedure, will not themselves have felt that immediate and irresistible
+impression, which is made upon the mind of the spectator, when he sees
+on one side the solemn array of the court, the judges, the officers, and
+all the terrible show of justice; and on the other, the trembling,
+solitary, unbefriended criminal, who awaits in silence the sentence of
+the law. One difference, however, between the effects produced by the
+respective criminal codes of France and England, ought to be here
+remarked. In England, owing to the principles and practice of our
+criminal law, it too frequently happens, that the most open and
+notorious criminals escape, whilst the less able, but more innocent
+offenders, those who might be easily reclaimed, who have gone little way
+in the road of crime, but who are less able to do themselves justice at
+their trial, fall an easy sacrifice to the rigour of our criminal code.
+In France, owing to the custom of the cross-examinations of the
+prisoner, by the president and the different judges, this can never
+happen. The notoriety of his character prevents the common feelings of
+compassion in the breasts of the jury; the severity of the
+interrogations renders it impossible that any fictitious story, when
+confronted with his former examinations before the magistrate and the
+_Jure d'Accusation_, can long hold together, and he is, in this manner,
+generally convicted by the evidence extracted from his own mouth upon
+the trial.
+
+The present style of French pleading is exactly what we might be led to
+expect from the peculiar state of manners, and the particular character
+of that singular people. It is infinitely further removed from dry legal
+ratiocination, and much more allied to real eloquence, than any thing we
+met with in England. Any one who is acquainted with the natural inborn
+fluency in conversation of every individual whom he meets in France, may
+be able to form some idea of the astonishing command of words in a set
+of men who are bred to public speaking. One bad effect arises from this,
+which is, that if the counsel is not a man of ability, this amazing
+volubility, which is found equally in all, serves more to weaken than to
+convince; for the little sense there may be, is spread over so wide a
+surface, or is diluted with such a dose of verbiage, that the whole
+becomes tasteless and insipid to the last degree. But this fluency, on
+the other hand, in the hands of a man of talents and genius, is a most
+powerful weapon. It hurries you along with a velocity which, from its
+very rapidity, is delightful; and where it cannot convince, it amuses,
+fascinates, and overpowers you.
+
+One thing struck me as remarkable in the French form of trial, which
+perhaps might be with benefit adopted by England. All exceptions and
+challenges to jurymen are made in private, and not, as with us, in open
+court. This is a more delicate method, and no man's character can suffer
+(as is sometimes the case in England) by being rejected. The trial by
+jury is very far from being popular in France; indeed, upon an average I
+have heard more voices against it than advocates for its continuance.
+The great cause for this dissatisfaction is that which leads to various
+other calamitous consequences in that kingdom,--the want of public
+spirit in France.--The French have literally no idea of any duties which
+they must voluntarily, without the prospect of reward, undertake for
+their country. It never enters their heads that a man may be responsible
+for the neglect of those public duties, for the performance of which he
+receives no regular salary.--There is a constant connection in their
+minds, between business and payment, between money and obligation: and
+as for that noble and patriotic spirit which will undergo any labour
+from a disinterested sense of public duty, it is long since any such
+feeling has existed, and it will probably, if things continue in their
+present state, be long before it will exist again in France.
+
+It might be imagined, from the advantages in the administration of
+criminal justice, that France was in this respect equal, if not superior
+to Britain.--This, however, is by no means the case. The written
+criminal code of France is indeed apparently more humane, and the civil
+code less intricate and voluminous than with us in England. But there is
+a wide and striking difference between this code, drawn up with all the
+luminousness of speculative benevolence, and the manner in which the
+same code is carried into execution: What signifies the purity of the
+code, if the executive part of the system, the nomination of the judges,
+the direction of the sentences, and the reversal of the whole
+proceedings, was submitted to the power, and constituted part of the
+iron prerogative, of a despotic Sovereign. It was the constant practice
+of the late Emperor to appoint, whenever it was necessary for the
+accomplishment of his own ends, what he denominated a COUR PREVOITALE--a
+species of court consisting of judges of his own selection, who, with
+summary procedure, condemned or acquitted, according to the pleasure of
+its master. Not only was this court erected, which was in every respect
+under the controul of the Emperor, but by means of his police
+emissaries, of those pensioned spies whom he insinuated into all the
+offices, and the remotest branches of the political administration, he
+contrived to overawe the different judges, to keep them in perpetual
+fear of the loss of their official situation, and in this manner to beat
+down the evidence, to bias the sentence, and finally, to direct the
+verdict. The judicial situations became latterly so completely under the
+influence of the creatures of the Court, that I was informed by the
+lawyers, that no judge was sure of remaining for two months in his
+official situation.
+
+Upon the important subject of criminal delinquency, I am sorry to say
+the only information I contrived to collect was extremely
+unsatisfactory. I had been promised, by an intelligent barrister, with
+whom I had the good fortune to become acquainted, a detailed opinion
+upon the state of criminal delinquency in France; but in the meantime
+Napoleon landed from Elba, and my friend was called away from his civil
+duties to join the national guard, who were marched, when it was too
+late, in pursuit of Bonaparte.
+
+From the calendar of crimes, however, which I had the opportunity of
+examining at the Aix assizes, as well as from the decided opinion of
+many of the lawyers there, I should be induced to hazard the opinion,
+that the crimes of robbery, burglary, and murder, are infinitely less
+frequent than in England. The great cause of this is undoubtedly to be
+attributed to the excellence of their police. Wherever such a preventive
+as the system of Espionage, and that carried to the perfection which we
+find it possessing in that country, exists, it is impossible that the
+greater crimes should be found to any alarming decree. There is a power,
+a vigour and an omnipresence in this effective police, which can check
+every criminal excess before it has attained any thing like a general or
+rooted influence throughout the kingdom; and its power, under the
+administration of Napoleon, was exerted to an excessive degree in
+France. Such a mode, however, of diminishing the catalogue of crimes,
+could exist only under a state of things which the inhabitants of a free
+country would not suffer for a moment; and indeed, to anyone possessing
+but the faintest idea of what liberty is, there is something in the idea
+of a system of espionage which is dreadful. It is like some of those
+dark and gigantic daemons, embodied by the genius of fiction, the form of
+which you cannot trace, although you feel its presence, which stalks
+about enveloped in congenial gloom, and whose iron grasp falls upon you
+the more terrible, because it is unsuspected. Fortunately such a monster
+can never be met with in a free country. It shuns the pure, and
+untainted atmosphere of liberty, and its lungs will only play with
+freedom in the foul and thick air of a decided despotism.
+
+The effects of this system of espionage, in destroying every thing upon
+which individual happiness in society depends; the free and unrestrained
+communication of opinion between friends, and even the confidence of
+domestic society, can hardly be conceived by any one who has lived in a
+free country. Upon this subject, I had an opportunity of conversing with
+a most respectable and intelligent British merchant, who, previous to
+the revolution, had been a partner in a banking-house in the French
+metropolis; and afterwards had the misfortune of being kept a prisoner
+in Paris for the last twelve years. The accounts he gave us regarding
+the excessive rigour of the police, and the jealousy of every thing like
+intercourse, were truly terrible. It had become a maxim in Paris, an
+axiom whose truth was proved by the general practice and conduct of its
+inhabitants, to believe every third person a spy. Any matter of moment,
+any thing bordering upon confidential communication, was alone to be
+trusted _entre quatre yeux_. The servants in every family, it was well
+known, were universally in the pay of government. They could not be
+hired till they produced their licenses, and these licenses, to serve as
+domestics, they all procured from the office of the police. From that
+office their wages were as certain, and probably (if the information
+they conveyed was of importance), more regularly paid than those they
+received from their masters. Even, therefore, in the most secret
+retirement of your own family, you could never speak with perfect
+freedom. Mr B----, the gentleman above mentioned, informed me, that
+before he dared to mention, even to his wife or family, any subject
+connected with the affairs of the day, or when they wished to speak
+freely and unrestrainedly upon any point whatever, every corner of the
+room was first examined, the chinks of the doors, and the walls of the
+adjoining apartments underwent a similar scrutiny; and even then they
+did not dare to introduce any subject which was nearly connected with
+the political government of the country.
+
+A lawyer, who lived upon the same floor with this gentleman, was
+astonished, one morning, by the entry of the police officers into his
+room at four in the morning, without the slightest previous warning.
+They pulled him out of bed--hurried him away to the police office, kept
+him in strict custody for several days, seized all his papers; and
+having at last discovered that their suspicions were ill-founded, and
+that he had been secured upon erroneous information, he was brought back
+to his lodgings by the same hands, and in the same summary manner in
+which he had been removed; and he is to this day ignorant of the cause
+of his detention, or the nature of the offence of which he had been
+suspected.
+
+Amongst the few English who, along with Mr B. were detained in Paris, it
+was naturally to be expected, that the precautions taken to deceive the
+police, and to prevent the suspicion of any secret intercourse, were
+still more severe and rigorous than were used by the native French. As
+the subjects of this country, they naturally became the objects of
+continual suspicion, and were more strictly watched than any other
+persons. They contrived, however, to procure, although at distant
+intervals, the sight of an English newspaper. Nine or ten months
+frequently elapsed without their receiving any intelligence from
+England. When they had the good fortune to procure one, the precautions
+necessary to be adopted were hardly to be believed. The same gentleman
+informed me, that upon receiving an English paper, he did not venture to
+mention the circumstance even to his wife and children, lest, in their
+joy, some incautious words might have escaped from them before the
+servants of the family, in which case, detection would have been
+immediate, and imprisonment inevitable. Keeping it, therefore, entirely
+to himself, he concealed it from every eye during the day, and at night,
+after the family had gone to bed, he sat up, lighted his taper, and,
+when every thing was still and silent about him, ventured, only then, to
+read over the paper, and to get by heart the most important parts of the
+intelligence regarding England; and he afterwards transmitted the
+invaluable present to some secret friend, who, in the same manner, dared
+only to peruse it at midnight, and with the same precautions.
+
+A very sensible distinction has been made in the French code, in the
+difference of punishment which is inflicted upon robbery, when it has or
+has not been accompanied by murder; and the consequence of such
+distinction is, that in that country the most determined robberies are
+seldom, as they often are with us, accompanied with murder; whilst the
+accurate proportionment of punishment to the crimes, encourages persons
+possessing information to come forward, and removes those natural
+scruples which all must feel, when they reflect that they may be the
+chief instruments in bringing down a capital penalty upon the head of an
+individual, whose trivial offence was in no respect deserving of this
+last and severest punishment of the law.
+
+The crime of which I heard most frequently, and of which the common
+occurrence may be traced to the miserable condition to which trade and
+commerce were, during the last few years, reduced in France, and to that
+general laxity of moral conduct which even now distinguishes that
+country, was _Fraudulent Bankruptcy_. The merchant, no longer possessing
+the means of making his fortune by fair speculation, has recourse to
+this nefarious mode of bettering his condition. He settles with his
+creditors for a small per centage; disposes of his property by
+fictitious sales, _ventes simulees_, and thus enriches himself upon the
+ruin of his creditors. At a small town in the south of France, where I
+for sometime resided, there were several individuals, who, it was well
+known, had made their fortunes in this manner; and at Marseilles it
+had, as I understood, become in some measure a common practice. The
+crime is seldom discovered, attended at least with those circumstances
+of corroborative evidence which are necessary in bringing it to trial.
+Upon detection, accompanied by complete proof, the punishment is severe.
+It consists in being condemned for fourteen years, or for life, to the
+galleys, and in branding the delinquent with letters denoting his crime:
+_B F_ for Fraudulent Bankruptcy. At one of the trials of the Aix
+assizes, at which I was present, a young man of excellent family, son of
+the Chevalier de St Louis, was convicted of this crime, and although it
+was proved that he had been deceived by his partner, a man of decidedly
+bad character, but possessed of deep cunning, he was condemned for
+fourteen years to the galleys: Owing to a flaw in the process, the
+sentence was set aside by the Cour de Cassation, or Supreme Court of
+Appeal at Paris, and a new trial was ordered.
+
+From the same cause, which I have mentioned above, the perfection of
+their police, petty theft is not of such common occurrence in France as
+in England. The country, in short, at the time when we passed through
+it, was very quiet, and few crimes were committed; but on the
+disbanding of the troops, a great change may be expected. These restless
+creatures must find work, or they will make it for themselves. It is a
+hard question how the un-warlike Louis is to employ them. Many talk of
+the necessity of sending an immense force to St Domingo; and it would
+appear wise policy to devise some expedition of this nature, which would
+swallow up the restless, the profligate, and the abandoned.
+
+It is not our intention, nor indeed would the limits of our work permit,
+of entering into the question of what ought to be the conduct of the
+King. But there is another question, from answering which we can
+scarcely escape.
+
+Are the majority of the French nation well affected to the Bourbons?
+This is a question which is put to every person who returns from France.
+It is a natural, a most important, but a most difficult one to answer. I
+endeavoured, by every method in my power, by a communication with those
+gentlemen of the province where I resided, whose characters and
+situations entitled them to implicit credit; by endeavouring to satisfy
+myself as to the real sentiments of the peasantry, and by a perusal of
+those documents regarding the state of the country, which were believed
+the most authentic, to acquire upon this subject something like
+satisfactory information. As to the sentiments entertained at present by
+the generality of the French people upon this subject, I cannot speak,
+but with regard to the period which I passed in France, which began in
+November 1814, and ended at the time of the landing of Napoleon from
+Elba, I have no hesitation in declaring, that it appeared to me, that
+the majority of the French nation were at that time hostile to the
+interests of the Bourbons. On the other hand, in consulting the same
+sources of information as I have above enumerated, it was as evident
+that they are not generally favourable to the restoration of the
+Imperial Government under Napoleon. What appeared at that period to be
+the general desire of the nation, was the establishment of a new
+constitution, formed upon those principles, embracing those new
+interests, and compatible with that new state of things which had been
+created by the revolution. It was on this account that they favoured
+Napoleon.
+
+The situation of France then exhibited perhaps one of the most singular
+pictures ever presented to view by a civilized nation; a people without
+exterior commerce, and whose interior trade and manufactures, except in
+some favourite spots, was almost annihilated; whose youth was yearly
+drained off to supply the army, but whose agriculture has been
+constantly improving, which, for the last twelve years, had been
+subjected to all the complicated horrors of a state of war, but which,
+after all this, could yet earnestly desire a continuance of this state.
+A nation where there was scarcely to be found an intermediate rank
+between the Sovereign and the peasantry--for since the destruction of
+the _ancienne noblesse_, and more particularly, since all ranks have
+been admitted to a participation in the dignities conferred on the
+military, all have become equally aspiring, and all consider themselves
+upon the same level:--A nation where, notwithstanding the division into
+parties, possessing the most opposite interests and opinions, and
+pulling every different way, the greater part certainly desired a
+government similar to Napoleon's, and would even unite to obtain it:--A
+nation who talked of nothing but liberty, and yet suffered themselves to
+be subjected to the conscription, to the loss of their trade, to the
+severest taxes, the greatest personal deprivations, and the most
+complete restraint in the expression of their opinions--to the continued
+extortions of a military chief, the most despotic who ever reigned in a
+European country, and whose acts of oppression are truly Asiatic; and
+who tamely bore all this oppression, supported by their national vanity,
+because they wish to bear the name _of the great people_: Great, because
+their ambition is unbounded; great as a nation of rapacious and
+blood-thirsty soldiers; great in every species of immorality and vice!
+Who, led away by this miserable vanity, have been false to their oaths,
+so recently pledged to a mild and virtuous prince, very unfit to rule
+such a race of villains, because he is mild and virtuous.
+
+But it is not generally believed, that the majority in France favoured
+Napoleon, though it is but a natural consequence of the state of the
+country; I shall therefore enumerate the divisions of ranks, and the
+sentiments of each.--All allow that the army were his friends; on that
+subject, therefore, I shall say nothing.--Next to the army, let us look
+to the civil authorities.--All these were in his favour--all that part
+of the civil authorities at least, who have the immediate management of
+the people.--It is in vain that the heads of office in Paris, the
+miserable bodies styled the Chambers of Parliament and the Counsellors
+of the realm, were favourably inclined towards the King.--Napoleon well
+knew that these were not the men who rule France.--France, as an entire
+kingdom, may be said to be governed by these men; but France,
+subdivided, is governed by the prefects, and the gens-d'armes of
+Napoleon.--Not a man of these was displaced by the King, and although
+they were all furious in their proclamations against the usurper, they,
+with few exceptions, joined him, and these few exceptions were removed
+by him.--The most powerful men in France under Napoleon were these
+prefects and gens-d'armes, and knowing their power, he was always
+cautious in their selection; wherever he conceived that they really
+favoured the Bourbon interest, he removed them.
+
+Next, the whole class of Receveurs were his devoted friends.--These men
+were all continued in place under the un-warlike reign of Louis, but
+where no conscription and no droits reunis were to be enforced, they had
+poverty staring them in the face.--Is it unnatural that they should
+favour him whose government enriches them?
+
+To the shadows of nobility, to the ghost of aristocracy which had
+re-appeared under the King, no power or influence can be
+attributed,--they dared not think, and could not act.
+
+The better classes of the inhabitants of the cities, whether the traders
+and manufacturers, or the bourgeoise of France, are those who were the
+most decided enemies of Bonaparte: but let us look how their arm is
+weakened and palsied by the situation of their property.--They have many
+of them purchased the lands of the emigrants at very low prices, and, in
+many instances, from persons who could only bestow possession without
+legal tenure.--These feel uneasy in their new possessions; they dread
+the ascendancy which the nobility might still obtain under their lawful
+Sovereign: Napoleon came proclaiming to them that he would maintain them
+in their properties. Nor were all the traders and manufacturers his
+enemies.--He encouraged the trade of Lyons, for example, of Paris, of
+Rouen, and other interior towns, and he pitted these interior towns
+against the sea-ports of Bourdeaux, Marseilles, &c. Thus, even with
+commercial men, he had some friends.--And here, in mentioning Paris, I
+must observe, that the most slavish deference is paid by the whole of
+France to the opinions, as well as the fashions, which prevail at the
+capital. From the encouragement which he offered to its interior trade,
+from the grand works which he was constantly carrying on, affording
+labour to the idle rabble; from the magnificent _spectacles_ supplied by
+his reviews, fetes, and festivities, and most of all, from the
+celebrated system of gulling and stage-trick, practised by his police,
+and through the medium of the press--From all these circumstances, it
+arises, that Napoleon was no where so much beloved as at Paris; and
+Napoleon took good care that Paris afforded to all France an example
+such as he would wish them to follow.--It is difficult to say why the
+French should tamely follow the example of their despot; but they forgot
+that he was a despot, and they were not singular as a nation in
+following the example _of their chief_, though, perhaps, they carried
+their obedience to a more slavish pitch than any other people.--"En
+France (says Mons. Montesquieu) il en est des manieres et de la facon de
+vivre, comme des modes, les Francais changent des meurs selon l'age de
+leur Roi,--Le Monarque pouvait meme parvenir a rendre la nation grave
+s'il l'avait entrepris."
+
+Next in rank, though, from their numbers and influence, perhaps, after
+the army, the most powerful body in the community, the situation of the
+peasants must be considered. They had either seized upon, or purchased,
+at a low rate, the lands of the emigrants, and the national domains;
+these they had brought into the best state of cultivation; without the
+interference of any one, they directly drew the profits. The oppression
+in agriculture, which existed before the revolution, whether from the
+authority of the Seigneurs, from the corvees, from tythes, game laws,
+&c. all are done away--become rich and flourishing, they are able to pay
+the taxes, which, under Napoleon, were not so severe as is generally
+supposed.--But they had every thing to fear from the return of the
+noblesse, and from the re-establishment of the ranks and order which
+must exist under the new constitution of France. Can it then be
+considered that the peasantry should see their own interest in
+maintaining the revolutionary order of things? The more unjust their
+tenure, the more cause have they to fear; and unenlightened as many of
+them are, their fears once raised, will not easily be controlled.
+Napoleon had most politically excited alarm among them, and they are
+favourably inclined towards him. This powerful body have no leaders to
+direct them: The respectable and wealthy farmer, possessing great landed
+property; the yeoman, the country gentleman,--all these ranks are
+abolished. Where the views of the Sovereign are inimical to the
+peasantry, as was imagined under Louis XVIII. that body will powerfully
+resist him; where they were in concert, as under Napoleon, that body
+became his chief support next to his military force.
+
+It is not enough that Louis XVIII. had never invaded their property--it
+is not enough that in different shapes he issued proclamations, and
+assurances, that he had no such intentions,--the peasantry felt
+insecure; and they dreaded the influence of his counsellors, and of the
+noblesse. The low rabble of France, at all times restless, and desirous
+of change, were favourable to Napoleon;--they wished for a continuance
+of that thoughtless dissipation, and dreadful immorality, which he
+encouraged; they wished for employment in his public works,--they looked
+for situations in his army.
+
+It may then be said, that among all ranks Napoleon had friends. Who then
+were against him? All those who wished for peace: all those who desired
+the re-establishment of the church: all those who had the cause of
+morality and virtue at heart--all the good,--but, alas! in France, they
+were few in number.
+
+I have only enumerated the great and leading parties in the community.
+It was my intention to have touched on the sentiments of the different
+professions, but I have been already too tedious; I shall here only
+enumerate a few of the classes, who, as they are thrown out of bread by
+the return of the Bourbons, and the new system of government, will be
+ever busily employed in favouring a despotic and military government, a
+continuance of war, and of a conscription.
+
+1st, All the prefects, collectors of taxes, and their agents, who were
+employed in the countries subjected to Napoleon.
+
+2d, The many officers, and under agents, employed in the conscription,
+and in collecting the droits reunis.
+
+3d, The police emissaries of all ranks, forming that enormous mass who
+conducted the grand machine of espionage, directed the _public spirit_,
+and supplied information to the late Emperor.
+
+4th, All the rich and wealthy army contractors, furnishers, &c. &c.
+
+Having attempted to shew that the situation of the people in France was
+highly favourable to the views of the usurper, let me now observe, that
+there are other circumstances which greatly aided his cause.
+
+1st, The vanity of the nation was hurt: they had not forgotten their
+defeat by the allies, and the proceedings of Congress, in confining
+within narrow bounds, that nation, who, but a year ago, gave laws to the
+continent, had tended to aggravate their feelings. It is difficult for
+any nation to shrink at once into insignificance, from the possession of
+unlimited power; it is impossible for France to maintain an inglorious
+peace.
+
+2d, The spirit of the nation had become completely military. One year of
+peace cannot be supposed to have done away the effects of twelve years
+of victory.
+
+3d, The general laxity of morals, and the habits of dissipation and
+idleness, which have followed from the revolution, and have been taught
+by the military, and especially by the disbanded soldiers, were
+favourable to him.
+
+4th, He came at the very time when his prisoners had returned from all
+quarters of the globe; he came again to unite them under the _revered
+eagle_, emblem of rapine and plunder, which they everywhere looked up
+to; in short, if it had been suggested to any one, possessing a thorough
+knowledge of the situation of France, to say at what time Napoleon was
+most likely to succeed, he must have pitched on the moment selected by
+him. There are indeed many circumstances which induce me to suppose,
+that the plan for his restoration had been partly formed before he left
+Fontainbleau; for it is well known, that he long hesitated--that he
+often thought of making use of his remaining force, (a force of about
+thirty thousand men), and fighting his way to Italy; that his Marshals
+only prevailed on him, and that he yielded to their advice, when he
+might have thought and acted for himself. The conduct of Ney favours the
+supposition: he selected for him the spot, of all others, the most
+favourable for his views, should they be directed to Italy; he
+stipulated for his rank, for a guard of veterans; he is described as
+using a boldness and insolence of speech to Napoleon, which he would not
+have dared to use, had there not been an understanding between them. He
+covered his treachery by a garb of the same nature, when in presence of
+his lawful Sovereign: open in his abuse of the usurper, while laying
+plans to join him.
+
+There is a very peculiar circumstance in Bonaparte's character, which
+is, that at times, he makes the most unguarded speeches, forgetful of
+his own interest. Thus, when the national guard of Lyons begged
+permission to accompany him on his march, he said to them, "You have
+suffered the brother of your King to leave you unattended--go--you are
+unworthy to follow me." Thus, when at Frejus, he said to the Mayor,--"I
+am sorry that Frejus is in Provence; I hate Provence, but I have always
+wished your town well; and, _ere long, I will be among you again_." This
+speech, which I had from the Prefect of Aix, who was intimately attached
+to Napoleon and his interests, I know to be authentic. In it, even the
+place of his landing seemed to be determined. One thing is certain, that
+the plan, if not commenced before his abdication, was, at all events,
+begun immediately after; for a long time must have been necessary to
+arrange matters in such a manner that he should not find the slightest
+opposition in his march to Paris.
+
+I have thus attempted to give my readers some account of the state of
+France under Napoleon. From this account, hastily written, they will
+draw their own conclusions. Mine, attached as I am to one party; knowing
+little of politics, only interested as a Briton in the fate of my
+country, are these:--That France decidedly wishes to live by war and
+plunder--that France deserves no such government as that of the virtuous
+Louis--that, till the soldiery are disbanded, and their leaders
+punished, France can never be governed by the Bourbons:--that the
+majority in the nation do not wish for Napoleon in particular, but for a
+revolutionary government, and that we have no right of interference with
+their choice: but that the propriety of our immediately engaging in war
+could not be doubted, for our very existence as a nation depended on
+such conduct--that we had the same right to attack Bonaparte, as we had
+to attack a common robber, more particularly, if this robber had
+repeatedly planned and devised the destruction of our property.
+
+They will draw the happiest conclusions in favour of our own blessed
+country, from a comparison with France--looking on that unhappy nation,
+they will exclaim with me, in the beautiful words of La Harpe:
+[45]"J'excuse et n'envie point ceux qui peuvent vivre comme s'ils
+n'avoient ni souffert ni vu souffrir; mais qu'ils me pardonnent de ne
+pouvoir les imiter. Ces jours d'une degradation entiere et innouie de
+la nature humaine sont sous mes yeux, pesent sur mon ame et retombent
+sans cesse sous ma plume, destinee a les retracer jusqu'a mon dernier
+moment."[46]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+MODERN FRENCH CHARACTER AND MANNERS.
+
+
+An Englishman never dreams of entering into conversation without some
+previous knowledge upon the point which is the subject of discussion.
+You will pass but few days in France before you will be convinced, that
+to a Frenchman this is not at all necessary. The moment he enters the
+room, or caffe, where a circle may happen to be conversing, he
+immediately takes part in the discussion--of whatever nature, or upon
+whatever subject that may be, is not of the most distant consequence to
+him. He strikes in with the utmost self-assurance and adroitness,
+maintains a prominent part in the conversation with the most perfect
+plausibility; and although, from his want of accurate information, he
+will rarely instruct, he seldom fails to amuse by the exuberance of his
+fancy, and the rapidity of his elocution. But take any one of his
+sentences to pieces, analyze it, strip it of its gaudy clothing and
+fanciful decorations, and you will be astonished what skeletons of bare,
+shallow, and spiritless ideas will frequently present themselves.
+
+In England, it often happens, that a man who is perfectly master of the
+subject in discussion, from the effect of shyness or embarrassment, will
+convey his information with such an appearance of awkwardness and
+hesitation, as to create a temporary suspicion of dulness, or of
+incapacity. But upon further examination, the true and sterling value of
+his remarks is easily discernible. The same can very seldom be said of a
+Frenchman. His conversation, which delights at the moment, generally
+fades upon recollection. The information of the first is like a
+beautiful gem, whose real value is concealed by the encrustation with
+which it is covered; the other is a dazzling but sorry paste in a
+brilliant setting. [47]"Un Francais," says M. de Stael, with great
+truth, "scait encore parler, lors meme il n'a point d'idees;" and the
+reason why a Frenchman can do so is, because ideas, which are the
+essential requisites in conversation to any other man, are not so to
+him. He is in possession of many substitutes, composed of a few of those
+set phrases and accommodating sentences which fit into any subject; and
+these, mixed up with appropriate nods, significant gestures, and above
+all, with the characteristic shrugging of the shoulders, are ever ready
+at hand when the tide of his ideas may happen to run shallow.
+
+The perpetual cheerfulness of the French, under almost every situation,
+is well known, and has been repeatedly remarked. One great secret by
+which they contrive to preserve this invariable levity of mind, is
+probably this extraordinary talent of theirs for a particular kind of
+conversation. An Englishman, engaged in the business and duties of life,
+even at his hours of relaxation, is occupied in thinking upon them. In
+the midst of company he is often an insulated being; his mind, refusing
+intercourse with those around him, retires within itself. In this manner
+he inevitably becomes, even in his common hours, grave and serious, and
+if under misfortunes, perhaps melancholy and morose. A Frenchman is in
+every respect a different being: He cannot be grave or unhappy, because
+he never allows himself time to become so. His mind is perpetually
+busied with the affairs of the moment. If he is in company, he speaks,
+without introduction, to every gentleman in the room. Any thing, the
+most trivial, serves him for a hook on which to hang his story; and this
+generally lasts as long as he has breath to carry him on. He recounts to
+you, the first hour you meet with him, his whole individual history;
+diverges into anecdotes about his relations, pulls out his watch, and
+under the cover shews you the hair of his mistress, apostrophizes the
+curl--opens his pocket-book, insists upon your reading his letters to
+her, sings you the song which he composed when he was _au desespoir_ at
+their parting, asks your opinion of it, then whirls off to a discussion
+on the nature of love; leaves that the next moment to philosophize upon
+friendship, compliments you, _en passant_, and claims you for his
+friend; hopes that the connection will be perpetual, and concludes by
+asking you _to do him the honour of telling him your name_. In this
+manner he is perpetually occupied; he has a part to act which renders
+serious thought unnecessary, and silence impossible. If he has been
+unfortunate, he recounts his distresses, and in doing so, forgets them.
+His mind never reposes for a moment upon itself; his secret is to keep
+it in perpetual motion, and, like a shuttlecock, to whip it back and
+forward with such rapidity, that although its feathers may have been
+ruffled, and its gilding effaced by many hard blows, yet neither you nor
+he have time to discover it.
+
+Nothing can present a stronger contrast between the French and English
+character, and nothing evinces more clearly the superiority of the
+French in conversation, and the art of amusement, than the scenes which
+take place in the interior of a French diligence. They who go to France
+and travel in their own carriages are not aware of what they lose.--The
+interior of a French diligence, if you are tolerably fortunate in your
+company, is a perfect epitome of the French nation.--When you enter a
+public coach in England, it is certainly very seldom that, in the course
+of the few hours you may remain in it, you meet with an entertaining
+companion. Chance, indeed, may now and then throw a pleasant man in your
+way; but these are but thinly sown amongst those sour and silent
+gentlemen, who are your general associates, and who, now and then eyeing
+each other askance, look as if they could curse themselves for being
+thrown into such involuntary contiguity.
+
+The scene in a French diligence is the most different from all this that
+can be conceived. Every thing there is life, and motion, and joy.--The
+coach generally holds from ten to twelve persons, and even then is
+sufficiently roomy.--The moment you enter you find yourself on terms of
+the most perfect familiarity with the whole set of your travelling
+companions. In an instant every tongue is at work, and every individual
+bent upon making themselves happy for the moment, and contributing to
+the happiness of their fellow travellers. Talking, joking, laughing,
+singing, reciting,--every enjoyment which is light and pleasurable is
+instantly adopted.--A gentleman takes a box from his pocket, opens it,
+and with a look of the most finished politeness, presents it, full of
+sweetmeats, to the different ladies in succession. One of these, in
+gratitude for this attention, proposes that which she well knows will be
+agreeable to the whole party, some species of round game like our
+cross-purposes, involving forfeits. The proposal is carried by
+acclamation,--the game is instantly begun, and every individual is
+included: Woe be now to the aristocracy of the interior! Old and young,
+honest and dishonest, respectable and disrespectable, all are involved
+in undistinguished confusion--but all are content to be so, and happy in
+the exchange. The game in the meantime proceeds, and the different
+forfeits become more numerous. The generality of these ensure, indeed,
+from their nature, a punctuality of performance. To kiss the handsomest
+woman in the party, to pay her a compliment in some extempore effusion,
+or to whisper a confidence (_faire une confidence_) in her ear--all
+these are hardly enjoined before they are happily accomplished. But
+others, which it would be difficult to particularize, are more amusing
+in their consequences, and less easy, in their execution.
+
+The ludicrous effect of this scene is much heightened by its being often
+carried on in the dark, for night brings no cessation; and we have
+ourselves, in travelling in this manner in the diligence, engaged in
+many a game of forfeits where, it is not too much to say, that our
+play-fellows, of both sexes, were certainly nearer to the grave than
+the cradle, being somewhere between fifty and fourscore. The scenes
+which then take place, the undistinguished clamours of young and old,
+the audible salutes from every quarter, which point to the perpetual
+succession of the forfeits, altogether compose a spectacle, which to a
+stranger is the most unexpected and extraordinary that can be possibly
+imagined.
+
+The conversation of a Frenchman, who possesses wit and information, is
+certainly superior to that of a clever man of any other country. It has
+a variety and playfulness, which, upon subjects of taste or fancy, or
+literature, delights and fascinates; but even their common conversation
+upon the most trivial matters is of a superior order, as far as
+amusement goes. However shallowly they may think upon a subject, they
+never fail to express themselves well. This is the case equally with
+those of both sexes. It is true, certainly, that in their subjects for
+conversation, they indulge in a wider range of selection; and in
+consequence, far more frequently without evincing the slightest scruple,
+overstep the bounds of decorum and delicacy. This is the inevitable
+effect of the peculiarity above noticed, that they must constantly
+converse; as their appetite for conversation is inordinate, their taste
+is necessarily less nice; provided they continue in motion, they are
+careless about the ground over which they travel. One unhappy
+consequence of this certainly is, that such carelessness extends to the
+women, even amongst the highest and best bred classes; and that these
+ideas of delicacy and tenderness, with which we are always accustomed to
+regard, in this country, the female mind, are shocked and grated against
+by the occurrence of scenes, the employment of expressions, and the
+mention of books which tend rather to disgust than to amuse, and which
+destroy in a moment that female fascination, which can never exist
+without that first and most material ingredient, modesty.
+
+The science of conversation in France, is not, as with us, confined
+principally to the higher classes, but extends to the whole body of the
+people. The reason is, that the lower ranks in that country invariably
+imitate the manners, style of society, and mode of conversation used by
+the higher orders. The lower ranks in England converse, no doubt; but
+then their conversation, and the subjects upon which it is employed, is
+exactly fitted to the rank they hold in society.
+
+In speaking of the literature of France, we shall have occasion to
+remark, that there is nothing in that country like an ancient or
+national poetry. This is perhaps not so much to be attributed to the
+excessive ignorance of the peasantry, as to the circumstance, that from
+the French peasantry invariably imitating the manners of the higher
+orders, there is no adaption of the manners of the labouring orders to
+the simple rank they fill in society. The innocence of rural life is
+thus lost. The shepherd, the peasant girl, the rustic labourer, whom you
+meet in France, are all in some measure artificial beings. They express
+themselves to any stranger they meet with ease and politeness, with a
+point and a vivacity which is certainly striking; but which is, of all
+things, the farthest removed from nature: and it is the consequence of
+this interchange which has taken place,--this imitation of the manners
+of the higher orders by the lower classes of the peasantry--that we
+shall in vain look for any thing in France like a simple national
+poetry. The truth, the simplicity, the nature, which ought to form it,
+are not to be found amongst any classes of the French people. The poetry
+of France, both ancient and modern, that of Ronsard and Marot, in
+earlier days; and that of Boileau, Racine, Corneille and Voltaire, in
+more modern times, bears the marks of having been formed in the court.
+If, for instance, in Scotland, the lower ranks, the labouring classes,
+like those of France, had transplanted the fictitious manners of the
+higher classes into the innocence of their cottage, or the sequestered
+solitude of their vallies--where, under such a state of things, could
+there ever have arisen such gifted spirits as Burns, or Ramsay, or
+Ferguson? and where should we have found, that truth, that beauty, that
+genuine nature, in the lives and manners of our peasantry, which has not
+only furnished such poets with some of their finest subjects, but has
+instructed these peasants themselves to pour out, in unpremeditated
+strains, those ancient and beautiful songs, which art and education
+could never have taught them; and which, in the progress of time, have
+formed that unrivalled national poetry, perhaps one of the brightest
+gems in the diadem of Scottish genius. But we must return to France.
+
+The French have been always celebrated for their natural gaiety of
+character. One exception from this is material to be noticed. It must
+strike you the moment you look into the countenances of the soldiery, or
+examine the air and manner of the generality of the lower officers. A
+dark and gloomy expression, if not a suspicious, and often savage
+appearance, is their characteristic feature; and although this is
+disguised by occasional sallies of loud and intemperate mirth, these
+sallies are more like the desperate and reckless exertions of a troop of
+banditti, than the temperate and unpremeditated cheerfulness of a
+regular soldiery. Nor is this look confined entirely to the military.
+The habits of the whole nation are changed; but yet, with all this
+alteration, there remains enough of their characteristic gaiety to
+distinguish them from every other people in Europe.
+
+Their excessive frivolity is perhaps even more remarkable than their
+gaiety; they have not sufficient steadiness for the uninterrupted
+avocations of graver life. In the midst of the most serious or deep
+discussion, a Frenchman will suddenly stop, and, with a look of perhaps
+more solemn importance than he bestowed upon the subject of debate, will
+adjust the ruffle of his brother savant, adding some observation on the
+propriety of adorning the exterior as well as the interior of science.
+[48]"Leur badinage," says Montesquieu, "naturellement fait pour las
+toilettes, semble etre provenu a former le caractere general de la
+nation. On badine au conseil, on badine a la tete d'une armee, on badine
+avec un ambassadeur."
+
+The vanity of the whole nation, it is well known, is without all bounds;
+and although this is most apparent, perhaps, and less unequivocally
+shewn in every point connected with military affairs, it is yet confined
+to no one subject in particular, but embraces all--in arts, science,
+manufactures; in every thing, indeed, upon which the spirit and genius
+of a nation can be exercised, it is not too much to say, that they
+believe themselves superior to every other nation or country. Nay, what
+is very extraordinary, so much have they been accustomed to hear
+themselves talk in this exaggerated style; so natural to them have now
+become those expressions of arrogant superiority, that vanity has, in
+its adoption into the French character, and in the effects which it
+there produces, almost changed its nature.
+
+In other countries--in our own, for instance, a very vain man is an
+object of ridicule, and generally of distrust. In France he is neither;
+on the contrary, there appears throughout the kingdom a kind of general
+agreement, a species of silent understood compact amongst them, that
+every thing asserted by one Frenchman to another, provided it is done
+with sufficient confidence and coolness, however individually vain, or
+absolutely incredible, ought to be fully and implicitly believed. It is
+this excessive idea which the French instil into each other of their own
+superiority, joined to the extreme ignorance of the great body of the
+people, which composes that prominent feature in their national
+character--_their credulity_--and which has long rendered them the
+easiest of all nations to be imposed upon by political artifice, and the
+submissive dupes of those travelling quacks and ingenious charlatans,
+who in this country are more than commonly successful in ruining the
+health and impoverishing the pockets of their devoted patients. An
+instance of this occurs to me, which happened to myself when residing in
+the south of France.
+
+At one of the great fairs where I was present, there appeared upon an
+elevated stage, an elderly and serious-looking gentleman, dressed in a
+complete suit of solemn black, with a little child kneeling at his feet.
+"Messieurs," said he to the multitude, and bowing with the most perfect
+confidence and self-possession--[49]"Messieurs, c'est impossible de
+tromper des gens instruits comme vous. Je vais absolument couper la tete
+a cet-enfant: _Mais_ avant de commencer, il faut que je vous fasse voir
+que je ne suis pas un charlatan. Eh bien, en attendant et pour un espece
+d'exorde: Qui est entre vous qui a le mal au dent?" "Moi," exclaimed
+instantly a sturdy looking peasant, opening his jaws, and disclosing a
+row of grinders which might have defied a shark. "Monsieur, (said the
+doctor, inspecting his gums), it is but too true. The disorders
+attending these small but inestimable members, the teeth, are invariably
+to be traced to a species of worm, and this the most obstinate, as well
+as the most fatal species in the vermicular tribe, which contrives to
+conceal itself at the root of the affected member. Gentlemen, we have
+all our respective antipathies; and it is by means of these that the
+most fatal and unaccountable effects are produced upon us. Worms,
+gentlemen, have also their prevailing antipathies. To subdue the animal,
+we have only to become acquainted with its disposition. The worm, Sir,
+at the bottom of your tooth, is of that faculty or tribe which _abhors
+copper_. It is the vermis halcomisicus, _or copper-hating worm_. Upon
+placing this penknife in the solution contained in this bottle,"
+(continued he, holding up a small phial, which contained a
+green-coloured liquid), "it is, you see, immediately changed into
+copper." The patient then, at the doctor's request, approached. A female
+assistant stood between him and the crowd, and in a few minutes the
+tooth was delivered of a worm, which, from its size, might certainly
+have given the toothache to the Dragon of Wantley,
+
+    "Who swallow'd the Mayor, asleep in his chair,
+    And pick'd his teeth with the mace."
+
+The peasant declared he felt no more pain, and the crowd eagerly pressed
+forward, (with the exception, we may believe, of the coppersmiths
+amongst the audience), and purchased the bottles containing this
+invaluable prescription. Before I had left the party, I discovered that
+the doctor, previously to the performing another trick, had borrowed
+from the crowd a gold piece of twenty francs, two pieces of five francs,
+a silver watch, and several smaller articles, nor did it appear they had
+the slightest suspicion that the learned doctor might have changed these
+articles as well as the penknife; and that although there were
+copper-hating worms, there might exist other kinds of human vermin,
+which might not reckon silver among their antipathies. This
+characteristic vanity, and the excessive credulity of the people, were
+strikingly exhibited in another ludicrous adventure of the same kind,
+which happened to us when I was resident at Aix.
+
+We were alarmed one morning by a loud flourish of trumpets, almost
+immediately under our windows. On looking out, we beheld a kind of
+triumphal car, preceded by six avant couriers, clothed in scarlet and
+gold, mounted on uncommon fine horses, and with trumpets in their hands.
+In the car was placed a complete band of musicians, and it was, after a
+little interval in the procession, followed by a superb open carriage,
+the outside front of which was entirely covered with rich crimson velvet
+and gold lace. The most singular feature about the carriage was its
+shape, for there projected from it in front, a kind of large magazine,
+(covered up also with a cloth of velvet,) which was in its dimensions
+larger than the carriage itself. In this open carriage sat a plain
+looking, dark, fat man, reclining in an attitude of the most perfect
+ease, and genteelly dressed. The whole cortege halted, in the course of
+Aix, almost immediately below our house. I joined the audience which had
+collected around it. Of course all was on the tiptoe of expectation.
+There was a joyful buzz of satisfaction through the crowd, and endless
+were the conjectures formed by our own party at the window. At length,
+after a flourish of trumpets, the gentleman rose, and uncovering the
+large magazine, showed that it contained an almost endless assemblage of
+bottles, from the greatest to the smallest dimensions. He then,
+advancing gravely, addressed himself to the audience in these words:
+[50]"Messieurs, dans l'univers il n'ya qu'un soleil; dans le royaume de
+France il n'ya qu'un Roi; dans la medicine il n'ya que Charini." With
+this he placed his hand on his heart, bowed, and drew himself up with a
+look of the most glorious complacency. This exordium was received with
+the most rapturous applause by the crowd, who, from having often seen
+him in his progress through the kingdom, had known before that this was
+_Charini himself_, the celebrated itinerant _worm doctor_. "Gentlemen,"
+he then proceeded, "it has been the noble object of my life to
+investigate the origin and causes of disease, and fortunate is it for
+the world that it has been so. Attend, then, to my discoveries: Worms
+are at the bottom of all disease,--they are the insidious, but prolific
+authors of human misery; they are born in the cradle with the infant;
+they descend into the grave with the aged. They begin, gentlemen, with
+life, but they do not cease with death. Behold, gentlemen," he
+continued, "the living and infallible proofs of my assertions,"
+(pointing to the long rows of crystal bottles, filled with multitudes of
+every kind of these vermin, of the most odious figures, which were
+marshalled in horrible array on each side of him), "these, gentlemen,
+are the worms which have been, by my art, extracted from my patients;
+many of them are, as you see, invisible to the naked eye;" upon which he
+held up a small phial of pure water. "Not a single disease is there, and
+not a single part of the human body which has not its appropriate and
+peculiar worm. There are those whose habitation is in the head;--there
+are those which dwell only in the soles of the feet;--there are those
+whose favourite haunts are in the seat of digestion;--there are those
+(happy worms) which will consent to dwell only in the bosoms of the
+fair. Even love," said he, assuming an air of most complacent softness,
+and casting his eye tenderly over the female part of his audience, "even
+love is not an exception; it is occasioned by the subtlest species of
+worms; which insinuate themselves into the roots of the heart, and play
+in peristaltic gambols round the seat of our affections. Painters,
+gentlemen, have distinguished the God of Love by the doves with which he
+is accompanied. He ought, more correctly, to have been depicted riding
+upon that worm, to which he owes his triumphs. Behold," said he, holding
+up a phial in which there was enclosed a worm of a light colour, "behold
+the fatal love-worm, from which I have lately had the happiness to
+deliver an interesting female of Marseilles!" The crowd were enchanted,
+purchased his bottles in abundance; and I heard afterwards in Aix, that
+by this ingenious juggling, he had contrived to amass a fortune
+sufficient to purchase a large estate, and to maintain, as we had
+witnessed, a cavalcade worthy of an ambassador.
+
+It is difficult to conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+characteristic vanity and scientific expressions, which are employed by
+the French workmen. The wig-makers, tailors, barbers, all consider their
+several trades as in some measure allied to science, and themselves as
+the only beings who understand it.--This they generally contrive to
+communicate to you with an air of mysterious importance. "Monsieur,"
+said a French barber to a friend of mine, an English sea captain who
+came in to be shaved; "you are an Englishman--sorry am I to inform you,
+but I do it with profound respect, that the science of shaving is
+altogether misunderstood in England. In their ignorance of its
+principles, they have neglected the great secret of our art. Sir," said
+he, coming closer up to him, and putting his hand to his own chin with
+an air of solemn communication, "I am credibly informed that in England
+they actually cut off the _epiderme_. Now, mon Dieu," continued he,
+turning up his eyes, and raising his soap-brush in an attitude of
+invocation, "who is there in France that will be ignorant that, in the
+destruction of this invaluable cuticle, the chin of the individual is
+tortured, and the first principles of our art degraded!"
+
+I have already hinted at the ignorance of the French, as a component
+part of their national credulity. This ignorance, as far as our
+opportunities of observation extended, in travelling across France,
+appeared to be deep and general; not only amongst the lower orders, but,
+on many subjects, pervading also the higher classes of the people. The
+only subjects upon which Napoleon considered that any thing like
+attempts at a national education should be made, were those connected
+with military affairs; mathematics, and the principles of mechanical
+philosophy.--Schools for these were generally founded in all the
+principal towns in the kingdom; it was there the younger officers of the
+army received their military education, and there were many public
+seminaries for public education, in addition to the Ecole Polytechnique
+in Paris, where the pupils were maintained and educated at the public
+expence. Every other branch of education, as tending to change the
+direction of the public mind, from military affairs into more pacific
+employments, was sedulously discouraged, and the consequence is seen, in
+that melancholy ignorance which is distinguishable in those generations
+of the French people which have sprung up since the revolution, and
+frequently even amongst the old nobility.[51] "Vous etes Ecossois?" said
+a French nobleman to me; 'Oui, Monsieur.' "Oh, que cela est drole." 'Et
+comment, Monsieur?' "C'est le pays de Napoleon. C'est un isle n'est ce
+pas?" 'Oh que non, Monsieur.' "Ma foi, je croyois qu'on l'appelloit
+_l'isle de Corse_." Whether, in the geographical confusion of this poor
+Marquis's brain, he had mistaken me for a Corsican, or actually believed
+that Napoleon was a Scotchman, is not very easy to determine.
+
+"You are an Englishwoman?" said the wife of a counsellor to one of the
+ladies of our party: "and I have been at London."--"And how did you like
+the people?" "Oh, they are very charmant; _bot_ I like better that other
+town near London,--Philadelphia."
+
+It is well known, that formerly in France the order of the Jesuits had
+acquired so pre-eminent an interest, as to insinuate themselves into
+almost every civil branch of the political government; and that, more
+especially, by the seminaries which they established generally
+throughout the kingdom, they had created a system of national education,
+in many respects highly beneficial to the community. As to the effects
+produced by this system, under the Jesuits, on the literature of France,
+very different opinions certainly may be entertained; and that
+artificial, and in many respects unnatural, style of poetry which has
+arisen, and still continues in France, may be perhaps attributed,
+amongst other causes, to that excessive passion for classical learning
+which was so religiously instilled, whereever the influence of these
+seminaries of the Jesuits extended. The utter abolition of this order is
+well known, and the consequence is, that where there existed formerly a
+general passion for that species of literature, which they cultivated,
+and which consisted in an intimate and critical knowledge of the
+languages of antiquity, and a taste for classical learning, as the only
+object of their imitation, there remains now nothing but a deep and
+general ignorance upon every object unconnected with military affairs;
+an ignorance which is the more fatal in its consequences, because it is
+founded upon contempt. It is difficult to say which of these conditions
+is the worst, the former or the latter. Among physicians and lawyers,
+however, you meet with many individuals, who, having been educated
+probably in foreign countries, or under the old _regime_, preserve still
+a passion for that which is so generally despised.
+
+In speaking of the education of the French people, it is impossible for
+any one who has at all mingled in French society, not to be particularly
+struck with what I before alluded to, the extreme ignorance and the
+limited education of the women, even amongst the higher orders. In a
+family of young ladies, you will but rarely meet with one who can
+accurately write her own language; and in general, in their cards of
+invitation, or in those letters of ceremony, which you will frequently
+receive, they will send you specimens of orthography, which, in their
+defiance of every established rule, are as amusing as Mrs Win. Jenkins'
+observations on that grave and useful gentleman, _Mr Apias Corkus_.
+Amongst the boys, any thing like a finished education was as little to
+be expected; the _furor militaris_ had latterly, in the public schools,
+proceeded to such a pitch, as to defy every attempt towards giving them
+a general, or in any respect a finished education. They steadily
+revolted against any thing which induced them to believe that their
+parents intended them for a pacific profession. Go into a French
+toy-shop, and you immediately discern the unambiguous symptoms of the
+military mania. Every thing there which might encourage in the infant
+any predilections for the pacific pursuits of an agricultural or
+commercial country, is religiously banished, and their places supplied
+by an infinite variety of military toys:--platoons of gens-d'armerie,
+troops of artillery, tents, waggons, camp equipage, all are arranged in
+imitative array upon the counter. The infant of the _grande_ nation
+becomes familiar, in his nurse's arms, with all the detail of the
+profession to which he is hereafter to belong; and when he opens his
+eyes for the first time, it is to rest them upon that terrible machinery
+of war, in the midst of which he is destined to close them for ever.
+
+In every country, and in every age of the world, the great and leading
+effects of tyranny, and of military despotism, will be discovered to
+have been the same. Nothing could be a stronger corroboration of this
+remark, than that singular and unexpected parallel which was
+immediately observed by one of our party who had been long in India,
+between the policy adopted by Napoleon, and that followed by the
+Brahmins in the East. The Brahmins religiously prohibit travelling; and
+the _sin_ of visiting foreign countries is particularized in their
+religious instructions. The free publication of the sentiments of
+travellers was never permitted under the late Emperor; and the severe
+regulations of the police made it extremely difficult for any Frenchman
+to travel. The object of both was the same, to prevent any mortifying
+and dangerous comparisons between the situation of their own, and the
+condition of foreign countries. The Brahmins made it a rule to check the
+progress of education, and to discourage the study of their _shasters_.
+As to these seminaries of education, unconnected with military subjects,
+Napoleon, if he did not dare actually to abolish them, at least threw
+over them the chilling influence of his imperial disapprobation; whilst,
+by that general inattention and impunity extended to vicious conduct,
+and the ridicule with which he regarded the clergy, he succeeded in
+rendering the scriptures contemptible. If, again, the condition of the
+French people was in many material respects analogous to the state of
+the Hindoos, the education of the women among them (the effect of the
+same causes operating in both countries), is completely Mussulman.
+Singing, dancing, and playing on the guitar, with a lighter species of
+ladies needle-work, forms the whole education of the French women; and
+this similarity of political treatment has produced a striking parallel
+even in the minuter parts of their national character.
+
+It is disagreeable to dwell upon the darker parts of their characters;
+even amongst those whose dispositions, it must be acknowledged, if
+formed in a purer country, and encouraged to develope themselves in all
+their native beauty, would have done honour to any nation. Such is the
+laxity of moral principle, that a woman of unimpeached character is but
+rarely to be found; and I can speak from my own observation and
+experience, that examples of criminal conduct, being of frequent
+occurrence and generally expected, have ceased to be the objects of
+reprobation, and are no longer the subjects of enquiry. What is more
+extraordinary, and shews a deeper sort of depravity, is the circumstance
+that such instances are entirely confined to the married women. These
+are, in their conversation and conduct, indulged, by a kind of general
+consent, with every possible freedom, and, by the extraordinary state
+of manners, are presented by their husbands with every possible facility
+they could desire. A husband and wife in France have generally separate
+apartments, or rather inhabit separate wings of their _hotel_. The
+lady's bed-room is appropriated to herself alone. Its walls would be
+esteemed polluted by any intrusion of the husband. It is there that, in
+an elegant dishabille, she receives the visits of her friends. It is
+secure against observation, or interruption of any kind whatever. It, in
+short, is the sacred palladium of female indiscretion. Much of this
+mischievous licence may, I think, be easily traced to the treatment of
+the younger and unmarried women. They are confined under a
+superintendance which is as rigorous, as the licence allowed to their
+mothers is unbounded. All those affections which begin in their early
+years to develope themselves--all those dispositions which are natural
+to youth, the innocent love of pleasure, and the passion for the society
+of those of their own age, are violently restrained by a system of
+confinement. In their early years, they are either banished by their
+parents to the seclusion of a convent, or are confined in their own
+houses, under the care of a set of severe and withered old women, whom
+they term _bonnes_. The consequence is, that the sullen influence of
+these unkindly beings is reflected upon their pupils, and that when,
+after their marriage, they are permitted to come forth from their
+prison, and mingle in general society, all the sweetness and gentleness
+of their original nature is gone for ever. But to return from this
+digression upon the ladies, other strong points of resemblance might
+easily be pointed out between the French and the native Indian
+character. The same low cunning, the same restless spirit of intrigue,
+the same gross flattery, the same astonishing command of countenance,
+and invariable politeness before strangers, the same complete sacrifice
+of every thing, character, principle, reputation, to the love of money;
+all these strong and melancholy features are clearly distinguishable in
+both. A servant who wishes for a place, a workman who is a candidate for
+employment, a shopkeeper who is anxious for customers, all invariably,
+as in India, pay money to some one who recommends them; and such is the
+poverty of the higher orders, that they compromise the meanness of the
+transaction, and receive these bribes with all the alacrity imaginable;
+and this system, which begins in these lesser transactions, is, in the
+disposal of offices under government, and the regulation of the
+patronage of the crown, the prime mover in France. If an office is to be
+disposed of, the constant phrase in France is, as in India, _il faut
+grassier la pate_. I was acquainted with two judges in France, who made
+not the least scruple to acknowledge that they owed their appointments
+to bribes, delicately administered. The bribes consisted in presents of
+_fruit_, presented in _a gold dish_. The similarity between the French
+and the inhabitants of eastern countries, on their hyperbolical
+compliments, had been observed by Montesquieu, in his Persian Letters,
+before the revolution; and by the effects of that lengthened scene of
+guilt and of confusion, as well as by the consequences of the military
+despotism under Napoleon, it has been increased to so great a degree, as
+to present a parallel more apt and striking than can be easily
+conceived.
+
+The excessive poverty of the higher orders, more particularly amongst
+the old nobility, has not only subjected them to this meanness of taking
+bribes, but has produced also amongst them a species of fawning
+servility of manner towards their inferiors; and this has, in its turn,
+in a great degree destroyed that high feeling of superior rank and
+superior responsibility, and that standard of amiable and noble
+manners, which are amongst the happiest consequences resulting from the
+institution of a hereditary nobility. The consequence of this servility
+amongst the _noblesse_, has inevitably produced a corresponding
+arrogance and insolence in the lower orders. One may see a French
+servant enter his master's room without taking off, or even touching his
+hat, engage in the conversation whilst he is mending the fire, throw
+himself upon a chair, and thus deliver the message he has been entrusted
+with, arrange his neckcloth at the glass, and dance out of the room,
+humming a tune. To an Englishman, this familiarity, from its excessive
+impudence, creates at first more amusement than irritation; but it
+becomes disgusting when we consider its consequences upon national
+manners, and that its causes are to be traced to national crime. I have
+seen a French gentleman take his grocer by the hand, and embracing him,
+hope for his company at supper. This submissive meanness towards their
+tradesmen, is of course much increased by their dread of the day of
+reckoning; and is therefore ultimately the consequence of their poverty.
+
+It happened that an English nobleman, who lately visited France, had
+shewn much kindness to one of the _ancienne noblesse_ during his stay in
+England. For upwards of a year, he had insisted on his living with him
+at his country seat. Upon the eve of leaving England for France, he
+wrote to his old acquaintance, desiring him to take suitable apartments
+for him in Paris. The Frenchman returned a most polite answer,
+expressing how much he felt himself hurt by the idea that his Lordship
+should dream of taking apartments, whilst his hotel was at his service.
+The English nobleman, accordingly, lived for two months at the hotel;
+but to his astonishment, upon taking his departure, Monsieur presented
+him with a regular bill, charging for every article, and including a
+very high rent for the lodgings. This is hardly to be credited by those
+unacquainted with the present condition of France; but I am induced to
+believe the story to be in every particular correct, as the authority
+was unquestionable. This excessive poverty amongst the higher classes,
+their being often unable, from their narrow circumstances, to support a
+house and separate establishment, their living in miserable lodgings
+when they are low in purse, snatching a spare meal at some cheap
+restaurateur's, and being unaccustomed to the comfort of regular meals
+in their own house, is the cause that they are all devotedly and
+generally attached to good eating, whenever they can get it, and that to
+such an excess, that a stranger, in attending a ball supper in France,
+or treating a French party to dinner, will be astonished at the
+perseverance of their palates, and the wonderful expedition with which
+both sexes contrive to travel through the various dishes on the table.
+The behaviour of Sancho at Camacho's wedding, when he rolled his
+delighted eyes over the assembled flesh-pots, is but a prototype of what
+I have witnessed equally in French men and French women upon these
+occasions.
+
+At a ball supper, where it is often impossible in England to prevail
+upon the ladies to taste a morsel, you may see these delicate females of
+France, regale themselves with dressed dishes, swallow, with incredible
+avidity, repeated bowls of strong soup, and after a short interval, sit
+down to potations of hot punch, strong enough to admit of being set on
+fire. Nothing can certainly be more destructive of all ideas of feminine
+delicacy, than to see a beautiful woman with one of these midnight bowls
+burning before her, and when her complexion is rendered livid by its
+flames, looking through this medium like some unknown but voracious
+inhabitant of another world.
+
+An English family of our acquaintance, who had settled at Aix, and who
+wished to see company, imagined, naturally, that it would be necessary
+to go through all the tedious process of preliminary introductions,
+which are necessary in England. A French friend was consulted upon the
+subject, and his advice was as simple as it was effectual: [52]"Donnez
+un souper, cela fera courir tout le monde." Sometime after this,
+happening to be conversing with the same gentleman upon this
+subject:[53] "Soyez bien sur, Monsieur, (said he), que si le diable
+donne a _souper, tout le monde soupera dans l'enfers_."
+
+Versatility, that ruling feature in the French character, ought not to
+be forgotten. They have of late been so accustomed to change, that
+change has become not only natural, but, one would imagine, in some
+measure necessary to their happiness. They change their leaders and
+their sovereigns, with as much apparent ease as they do their fashions.
+On the slightest new impulse, they change their thoughts, their oaths,
+their love, their hatred. In this particular, a French mob is the most
+remarkable thing in the world; they cannot exist without some favourite
+yell, some particular watch-word of the day, or rather of the hour. One
+day it is, [54]"_A bas le tyran! A bas les soldats!_" the next it is
+"_Vive l'Empereur! Vivent les Marchaux! Vive l'armee!_" or it is, "_Vive
+Louis le desire! Vive le fils de bon Henri!_" and in the next breath,
+"_Vive le nation! Point de loix foedaux! Point des rois! Point de
+noblesse!_" then, "_Point des droits reunis! Point de conscriptions!_"
+and during the desolating aera of the revolution, their favourite cry
+presented an exact picture of the character of the nation--of the same
+nation, which, in these dark days of continual horror, could yet amuse,
+itself by an exhibition of dancing-dogs, under the blood-dropping stage
+of the guillotine; their cry was then, [55]"_Vive la Mort_!" Utterly
+inattentive to these inconsistencies, the French people continue
+willingly to cry out whatever rallying word may be given to them by
+those agents who, working in secret, according to the ruling authorities
+and the prevailing politics of the day, are employed to excite them. The
+calamitous consequence of this mean and thoughtless principle is, that
+they submit themselves to the regulation of all the spies and police
+emissaries who, as the pensioned menials pf government, are continually
+insinuating themselves amongst them. Louis XVIII., unaccustomed to this
+system, from his long residence in England, has employed fewer spies
+than Napoleon, and the consequence has been, that the cry of Vive le Roi
+has never been re-echoed with that same high-sounding, though hollow
+enthusiasm, with which they vociferated Vive l'Empereur. An instance of
+the pliability of a French mob occurred a short time before our coming
+to Aix: When Napoleon, on his way to Elba, passed through Moulines, his
+carriage having halted at one of the inns, was immediately surrounded by
+a mob, amongst whom a cry of Vive l'Empereur was instantly raised. The
+Emperor's servants began laughing, and some one amongst, the mob
+imagining it to be in derision, exclaimed, with manifest disappointment,
+"Eh bien, Messieurs, que voulez vous donc; mais allons mes amis! crions
+tous Vive le Roi;" and having once received this new impulse, they not
+only raised, with one consent, a shout of Vive le Roi, but next moment,
+by their menaces, compelled Napoleon, who began to tremble for his
+person, to join in the cry of loyalty. Such was the miserable situation
+of that man, who, in the words of Augereau, [56]"apres avoir immole des
+millions des victimes, n'a su mourir en soldat;" and such the treatment
+of a French mob to one whose name, the moment before, they had extolled
+with all the symptoms of the most devoted enthusiasm.
+
+    J'ai vu l'impie, adore sur le terre
+    Pareil au cedre, il cachoit dans le cieux
+              Son front audacieux.
+    Il sembloit a son gre gouverner la tonnere,
+    Fouler aux pieds ses enemis vaincus,
+    Je ne fis que passer, il a'etoit deja plus.
+
+Amidst all their misfortunes, the French people, and more especially the
+peasantry, have contrived to preserve their characteristic gaiety. They
+are still, without, doubt, the most cheerful people in Europe, the least
+liable to any thing like continued depression, and the most easily
+amused by trifles. If we except the peasantry, whose situation is
+comparatively comfortable, they are subject to continual deprivations.
+They are wretchedly poor, and driven by this poverty to meannesses which
+they would in other situations despise. Their labour is frequently
+demanded where refusal is impossible, and obedience attended with no
+remuneration. They themselves are hurried away, if young, to fill up the
+miserable quotas of the conscription; torn from the happiest scenes of
+their youth, and banished from every object of their affection. If old,
+they are doomed to pass their solitary years uncomforted, and
+unsupported. The hopes of their age may have fallen, but amidst all this
+complicated misery, it is indeed most wonderful that they yet continue
+to be cheerful. The accustomed gaiety of their spirits will not even
+then desert them; and meeting with a stranger who enters into
+conversation with them, or seated with a few friends at a caffe, they
+will sip their liqueurs, smoke their segars, and talk with enthusiasm
+of the triumphs and glory of the _grande nation_, although these
+triumphs may have given the fatal blow to all that constituted their
+happiness, and in this glory they may see the graves of their children.
+This is not patriotism: It is a far lower principle. It is produced by
+national pride, vanity, thoughtlessness, a contempt or ignorance of
+domestic happiness, and all this allied to an unconquerable levity and
+heartlessness of disposition. It is not therefore that severe but noble
+principle, the silent offspring between thought and sorrow, which
+soothes at least where it cannot cure, and alleviates the acuteness of
+individual sufferings, by the consolation that our friends have fallen
+in the courageous execution of their duty. It has in its composition
+none of those higher feelings, but is more an instinct, and one too of a
+shallow and degrading nature, than any thing like a steady and
+regulating moral principle.
+
+This, however, which makes them unconscious to any thing like
+unhappiness, renders them, under imprisonment, banishment, and
+deprivation, more able to endure the hardships and reverses of war than
+any other troops.
+
+It is perhaps an improper word in speaking of imprisonment and
+banishment to a Frenchman, to say they endure it better; the truth is,
+they do not feel it so acutely, and the reason is, that the military,
+owing to their restless and wandering life, are comparatively less
+attached than other troops to their native country. They suffer better,
+because they feel less.
+
+In courage the English soldiers certainly equal them, and in physical
+strength they far surpass them; but the mind of a Frenchman is, for hard
+service, far better constituted than that of an Englishman. Nothing, it
+is well known, is so difficult as to rally an English force after any
+thing approaching even to a defeat. This is by no means the case with
+the French, and the history of the last campaign, preceding the
+restoration of the Borbons, contains a detailed account of many
+successive' defeats, after which the French army rallied and fought as
+undauntedly as before; and during the last war there was not perhaps a
+single battle contended with more determination than that of Toulouse.
+
+In regard to the lower orders of the peasantry, it is amongst them alone
+that we can yet distinctly discern the last traces of the ancient French
+character. They are certainly, from the sale of the great landed estates
+at the revolution, (which, divided into small farms, were bought by the
+lower orders,) for the most part comparatively in a rich and independent
+situation; and poverty is far more generally felt by the higher classes
+of the nation, than by the regular peasantry of the country. Yet with
+all this, they have become neither insolent nor haughty to their
+superiors; and you will meet at this day with more real unsophisticated
+politeness, and more active civility amongst the present French
+peasantry, than is to be found among the nobility or the soldiery of the
+nation.
+
+It is to them alone that the hopes of the revival of the French nation
+must ultimately turn. It is from this quarter that France, if she is
+ever to possess them, must alone derive those pacific energies, which,
+whilst they may render her as a nation less generally terrible, will yet
+cause her to be more individually happy.
+
+In every country, we must regard the peasantry as the sinews and stamina
+of the state. They are, in every respect, to the nation what the heart
+is to the individual; the centre from which health, energy and vigour
+must be imparted to the remotest portions of the political body. If such
+is the rank held by the peasantry _in all countries_, much more
+important: is the station which they at present fill in _France_, and
+far more momentous (owing to the circumstances in which that kingdom now
+stands), are the duties which they owe to their country. It is there
+alone that any sufficient antidote can be found for that political
+misery, occasioned by such a course of unprincipled national triumphs,
+as had been so long the boast of France, and which we have so lately
+closed in all the splendour of legitimate victory. It is to them that
+the court must look for the restoration of that moral principle, which,
+under the administration of the late Emperor, it so thoroughly despised:
+It is to them that the army must look for the restoration of those high
+feelings of military honour, which we shall seek in vain in the present
+soldiery of France: It is from them that the great landed proprietors
+and the country gentlemen (if that honourable name is ever again to be
+realised in France), must learn to sacrifice their schemes of individual
+enjoyment, and to renounce the dissipations of the capital for the
+severer duties which await them in the interior of the kingdom.
+
+I have before mentioned that civility and politeness which is still so
+characteristic of the peasantry of the kingdom. In addition to this,
+from every thing I could observe, they appeared to be really
+comfortable, and their invariable cheerfulness was accompanied by that
+flow of easy unpremeditated mirth, which gave us the impression that
+they were really happy. In the streets of Paris, and in the different
+ranks of society in the capital, you see, I think, the same outward
+symptoms of happiness; but, in many instances, their high sounding
+expressions of joy appear more like the wish to be happy, than the sober
+possession of happiness. The soldiery, in particular, seem, by their
+loud and repeated sallies, to have embraced a desperate kind of plan, of
+actually roaring themselves into forgetfulness; whereas the peasantry of
+the kingdom, after having passed the day in the labour of their fields
+or vineyards, dispersing in little troops through their village, the old
+to converse over the stories of their youth, the young dancing to the
+pipe and tabor, or singing in little groupes, arranged on the green
+seats under their orchard trees, appear, without effort, to sink into
+that enviable state of unforced enjoyment, which falls upon their minds
+as easily and calmly as the sleep of Heaven upon their eyelids.
+
+Amongst the French, dancing is that strong and prevailing passion which
+is found in every rank in society, which is confined to no sex, nor
+age, nor figure, but is universally disseminated throughout every
+portion of the kingdom; from the cottage to the court, from the cradle
+to the grave, the French invariably dance when they can seize an
+opportunity. Nay, the older the individual, the more vigorous seems to
+be the passion. Wrinkles may furrow the face, but lassitude never
+attacks the limbs.
+
+It is their singular perseverance in this favourite pursuit which
+renders a French ball to a stranger more than commonly ludicrous. In
+England, when the company begins to assemble, you are delighted with the
+troops of young and blooming girls, who throng into the dancing room,
+with faces beaming with the desire, and forms bounding with the
+anticipation of pleasure. In France, you must conceive the room to be
+superbly lighted up, and the walls covered with large mirrors, which, in
+their indefinite multiplication, suffer nothing, however ludicrous, to
+escape them. The folding doors slowly open, and there begins to hobble
+in, (as quick as their advanced years will permit them,) unnumbered
+forms of aged ladies and gentlemen, intermixed with some possessing
+certainly the firmer step of middle life, but few or none who dare
+pretend to the activity of youth. On one side comes the old _Marquis_,
+dressed in the extremity of the fashion, every ruffle replete with
+effect, and not a curl but what he would tremble to remove, stepping,
+with the most finished complacency, at the side of some antiquated dame
+of sixty, who minces and rustles at his side in the costume of sixteen.
+Previous to the dancing, it is indeed ridiculous to observe the series
+of silent tendernesses, the sly looks and fascinating glances with which
+these old worthies entertain each other. Meanwhile the music strikes up,
+and the floor is instantly covered with waltzers. It is well known, that
+the waltz is a dance, above all others, requiring grace and youth, and
+activity in those who perform it. Nothing, therefore, to a stranger, can
+be more entertaining, than the sight of those motley and aged couples,
+who, with a desperate resolution, stand up to bid defiance to the
+warnings of nature; and who, after they have first swallowed a tumbler
+of punch, (which is their constant practice,) begin to reel round with
+the waltzers, putting you in mind of Miss Edgeworth's celebrated Irish
+horse, _Knockegroghery_, who needed to have porter poured down his
+throat, and to be warmed in his harness, before he could achieve any
+thing like continued motion. In England, few ladies, unless those who
+are extremely young, ever dream of dancing after their marriage. In
+France, the young ladies before marriage are seldom admitted into
+company; after marriage, therefore, their gaiety instantly commences,
+and continues literally until the total failure of the physical powers
+of nature puts an end to the ability, though not to the love of
+pleasure. Any thing, therefore, it may be well believed, which comes
+between the French ladies and this mania for dancing, produces no
+ordinary effect. One of our party observed at a ball, a French lady of
+quality in the deepest mourning. On coming up to her, she remarked to
+the English lady, with a face of much melancholy, that her situation was
+indeed deplorable. "Look at me," said she, "these are the weeds for my
+mother, who has only been two months dead. Do you see these odious black
+gloves; they will not permit me to join in your amusements; but oh! how
+the heart dances, when the feet can't." "Come, come," said another
+female waltzer of fifty, whose round little body we had traced at
+intervals, rolling and pirouetting about the room; "come, we forget that
+the fast of Ash Wednesday begins at twelve. We may sup well before
+twelve, but not a morsel after it. We have but one short hour to eat,
+but we may dance, you know, all night."
+
+By our acquaintance with the best society in Aix, we have enjoyed no
+unfavourable opportunity of forming an idea of the present condition of
+society in the south of France. One of the first circumstances which we
+all remarked, and which has probably occurred to most who have
+associated in French society, was the wide range over which the titles
+of nobility extended. We indeed heard, that at Aix, where we resided,
+and at Toulouse, there were to be found more of the old nobility than in
+any other parts of France. These towns were, on account of the cheapness
+of living, the depots of the emigrant gentlemen whose fortunes had been
+reduced by the revolution, the receptacles of the ancient aristocracy of
+France. Yet even making every allowance for this circumstance, when we
+recollect the appearance and manners of many who were dignified by the
+titles of Marquis, Counts and Barons, it was impossible not to feel
+that, when compared with our own country, there was a kind of
+profanation of the aristocracy; and I should not be much surprised, if
+it was afterwards discovered, by some who would take the pains to
+investigate the subject narrowly, that in these remote parts of the
+kingdom, there subsisted a species of silent understood compact, by
+which the parties agreed, that if the one was dignified by his friends
+with the title of _Marquis_, he would in his turn make no scruple to
+favour the other with the appellation of _Count_. Certainly, when
+requested to explain the principles upon which titles of dignity
+descended, the account given by these noblemen themselves was quite
+unsatisfactory, and nearly unintelligible. The different orders also of
+knighthood, appeared to us to be very widely extended. The Chevaliers de
+St Louis were literally swarming. You could scarcely enter a shop, where
+you did not instantly discover one or more of these gentry sitting on
+the counter, conversing with the shopkeeper, or flirting with his
+daughter or wife. In their dress and general appearance in the forenoon,
+there appeared to be an unlimited latitude of shabbiness allowed both to
+the ladies and gentlemen; while in the evening, on the contrary, whether
+at home or abroad, we found them uniformly handsomely, and, making
+allowance for the difference of national costume, often elegantly drest.
+Nothing, indeed, could be more singular than the contrast between the
+extraordinary apparel of the same ladies (and those ladies of quality,
+marchionesses and countesses) whom we had visited at their own houses
+in the forenoon, and their appearance, when we met them in the evening,
+at the public concerts or private parties given at Aix. In the morning,
+you will find them receiving visits in their bed-rooms in the most
+complete dishabille; their night-cap not removed, a little bed-gown
+thrown carelessly over them; their hair in papillots, and their handsome
+ancles covered by coarse list slippers. In the evening, the _bonnet de
+nuit_ is discarded, and a snow-white plume of feathers waves upon its
+former foundation; the little bed-gown is thrown aside, and a superb
+robe of satin rustles and glitters in its stead; the head, instead of
+being bristled with papillots, is clothed with the most luxuriant curls;
+and the unrivalled foot and ancle display at once, in the beauty of
+their shape and the elegance of their decoration, the bounty of nature
+and the unwearied assiduity of nature's assistant journeymen--the
+shoemakers. The style of French parties is certainly very dissimilar to
+those we are accustomed to in our own country. And this difference is
+easily to be traced to the remarkable differences in the character of
+the two nations. To the prevailing influence of the fancy, the power of
+imagination and the love of amusement amongst the French, and to those
+ideas of sober sense, that spirit of phlegmatic indifference, and the
+engrossing influence of public employments, which are remarkable in the
+English nation. During our residence in the south, we were invited by
+the Countess de R---- to a ball, which, she told us, was given in honour
+of her son's birth-day. We went accordingly, and were first received in
+the card-rooms, which we found brilliantly lighted and decorated, and
+full of company. We were then conducted into another handsome apartment
+fitted up as a theatre. The curtain rose, and the young Count de R----
+tripped lightly from behind the scenes, with the most complete
+self-possession, and at the same time, with great elegance, begun a
+little address to the audience, apologising for his inability to amuse
+them as he could have wished, and concluded his address, by singing,
+with a great deal of action, two French songs. He then skipped nimbly
+off the stage and returned, leading in the principal actress at the
+theatre here, M. de----. They performed together a little dramatic
+interlude composed for the occasion; the company then adjourned into the
+card-rooms, and the evening concluded by a ball. At another private
+party we attended when the company were assembled; a folding door flew
+open, and a party of ladies and gentlemen, fantastically drest as
+shepherds and shepherdesses, flew into the room, and to our great
+amusement, began acting with their pipes and crooks and garlands, and
+all the paraphernalia of pastoral life, those employments of rural
+labour, or scenes of rustic courtship, which, in their public
+amusements, we have before remarked as peculiar favourites with the
+French people.
+
+If, as we have above remarked, for the hopes of the restoration of
+truth, and honour, and principle, in France, we must turn to the lower
+orders, it will not, I trust, be thought too trifling to observe, that
+any thing like real excellence in music, another favourite national
+propensity, is, as far as we could observe, to be found in the peasantry
+alone. The music of the capital, the modern compositions performed at
+the opera, the prevailing songs of the day, are all noisy, unmeaning,
+unharmonious (I speak, of course, merely from personal feeling, and with
+deference to those better able to form an opinion upon the subject;) but
+it is impossible to hear the unharmonious crash which proceeds from the
+orchestra of the opera, without immediately recollecting the celebrated
+pun of Rosseau: "Pour l'Academie de musique, certainement il fait le
+plus du bruit du monde." On the other hand, it is amongst the peasantry
+alone that you now find the ancient music of France. Those airs which
+are so deeply associated with all the glory and gallantry of the old
+monarchy; those songs of olden times, which were chanted by the
+wandering Troubadours, as they returned from foreign wars to their
+native vallies, and whose simple melody recalls the days of chivalry in
+which they arose: these, and all others of the same aera, which once
+composed in truth the national music of this great people, are no longer
+to be found amongst the higher classes of the community. But they still
+exist among the peasantry. The vine-dresser, as he begins, with the
+rising sun, his labours in the vineyards; or the poor muleteer, as he
+drives his cattle to the water, will chant, as he goes along, those
+ancient airs, which, in all their native simplicity, he has heard from
+his fathers; and which, in other days, have echoed through the halls of
+feudal pride, or have been sung in the bowers of listening beauty. Of
+the prevalence of this refined taste in poetry among the lower orders of
+the peasantry, the following fragment of an old ballad, still very
+commonly sung to the ancient Troubadour air by the peasantry of
+Provence, may be given as a familiar instance:
+
+
+LE TROUBADOUR.
+
+    Un gentil Troubadour
+    Qui chant et fait la guerre,
+    Revennit chez son Pere
+    Revant a son amour.
+    Gages de sa valeur
+    Suspendus en echarpe,
+    Son epee et sa harpe
+    Croisaient sur son coeur.
+
+    Il rencontre en chemin
+    Pelerine jolie
+    Qui voyage et qui prie
+    Un rosaire a la main,
+    Colerette aux longs plies
+    Gouvre sa fine taille,
+    Et grande chapeau de paille
+    Cache son front divin.
+
+    "Ah! gentil Troubadour,
+    Si tu reviens fidele,
+    Chant un couplet pour celle
+    Qui benit ton retour."
+    "Pardonnez mon refus,
+    Pelerine jolie,
+    Sans avoir vu m'amie,
+    Je ne chanterai plus."
+
+    "Ne la revois tu pas--
+    Oh Troubadour fidele,
+    Regarde la--C'est elle,
+    Ouvre lui donc tes bras.
+    Priant pour notre amour
+    J'allois en pelerine
+    A la vierge divine
+    Demander son secours."
+
+I believe no apology need be made for subjoining here, another very
+favourite song in the French army: One of our party heard it sung by a
+body of French soldiers, who were on their return to their homes, from
+the campaign of Moscow.
+
+
+LA CENTINELLE.
+
+    L'Astre de nuit dans son paisible eclat
+    Lanca ses feux sur les tentes de la France,
+    Non loin de camp un jeune et beau soldat
+    Ainsi chantoit appuye sur sa lance.
+
+    "Allez, volez, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes voeux vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    Que je veille dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie.
+
+    L'Astre de jour r'animera le combat,
+    Demain il faut signaler ma valence;
+    Dans la victoire on trouve le trepas,
+    Mais si je meura an cote de ma lance,--
+
+    Volez encore, zephyrs joyeux,
+    Portez mes regrets vers ma patrie,
+    Dites que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+        Que je meurs dans ces lieux,
+    C'est pour la gloire et pour m'amie."
+
+It is certainly productive of no common feelings, when, in travelling
+into the interior of the country, you find these beautiful songs, so
+much despised in the metropolis! of the nation, still lingering in their
+native vallies, and shedding their retiring sweetness over those scenes
+to which they owed their birth.
+
+How much is it to be desired that some man of genius, some lover of the
+real glory of his country, would collect, with religious hand, these
+scattered flowers, which are so fast sinking into decay, and again raise
+into general estimation the beautiful and forgotten music of his native
+land.
+
+In a discussion upon French manners, and the present condition of French
+society, it is impossible but that one great and leading observation
+must almost immediately present itself, and the truth of which, on
+whatever side, or to whatever class of society you may turn, becomes
+only the more apparent as you take the longer time to consider it; this
+is, that the French _carry on every thing in public_. That every thing,
+whether it is connected with business or with pleasure, whether it
+concerns the more serious affair of political government, or the pursuit
+of science, or the cultivation of art, or whether it is allied only to a
+taste for society, to the gratification of individual enjoyment, to the
+passing occupations of the day, or the pleasures of the evening--all, in
+short, either of serious, or of lighter nature, is open and public. It
+is carried on abroad, where every eye may see, and every ear may listen.
+Every one who has visited France since the revolution must make this
+remark. The first thing that strikes a stranger is, that a Frenchman has
+_no home_: He lives in the middle of the public; he breakfasts at a
+caffe; his wife and family generally do the same. During the day, he
+perhaps debates in the Corps Legislatif, or sleeps over the essays in
+the Academie des Sciences, or takes snuff under the Apollo, or talks of
+the fashions of the Nouvelle Cour, at the side of the Venus de Medicis,
+or varies the scene by feeding the bears in the Jardin des Plantes. He
+then dines abroad at a restaurateur's. His wife either is there with
+him, or perhaps she prefers a different house, and frequents it alone.
+His sons and daughters are left to manage matters as they best can. The
+sons, therefore, frequent their favourite caffes, whilst the daughters
+remain confined under the care of their _bonnes_ or _duennas_. In the
+evening he strolls about the Palais, joins some friend or another, with
+whom he takes his caffe, and sips his liqueurs in the Salon de Paix or
+Milles Colonnes; he then adjourns to the opera, where, for two hours, he
+will twist himself into all the appropriate contortions of admiration,
+and vent his joy, in the strangest curses of delight, the moment that
+Bigottini makes her appearance upon the stage; and, having thus played
+those many parts which compose his motley day, he will return at night
+to his own lodging, perfectly happy with the manner he has employed it,
+and ready, next morning, to recommence, with recruited alacrity, the
+same round of heterogeneous enjoyment. Such is, in fact, an epitome of
+the life of all Frenchmen, who are not either bourgeoise, employed
+constantly in their shops during the day, or engaged in the civil or
+military avocations--of those who are in the same situation in France,
+as our gentlemen of independent fortune in England. Another peculiarity
+is, that the Frenchmen of the present day are not only always abroad, in
+the midst _of the public_, but that they invariably flock from the
+interior of the kingdom into Paris, and there engage in those public
+exhibitions, and bustle about in that endless routine of business or
+pleasure, which is passing in the capital. The French nobility, and the
+men of property who still remain in the kingdom, invariably spend their
+lives in Paris. Their whole joy consists la exhibiting themselves in
+public in the capital. Their magnificent chateaus, their parks, their
+woods and fields, and their ancient gardens, decorated by the taste, and
+often cultivated by the hands of their fathers, are allowed to fall into
+unpitied ruin. If they retire for a few weeks to their country seat, it
+is only to collect the rents from their neglected peasantry, to curse
+themselves for being condemned to the _triste sejour_ of their paternal
+estate; and, after having thus replenished their coffers, to dive again
+from their native woods, with renewed strength, into all the publicity
+and dissipation of the capital. This was not always the state of things
+in France. Previous to, and during the reign of Henry IV. the manners,
+the society, and the mode of life of the nobility and gentlemen of the
+kingdom, were undoubtedly different The country was not then deserted
+for the town; the industry of the peasantry was exerted under the
+immediate eye of the proprietor; and his happiness formed, we may
+believe, no inferior object in the mind of his master; If we look at
+the domestic memoirs which describe the condition of France in these
+ancient days, we shall find that even from the early age of Francis I.
+till the commencement of the political administration of Richelieu, the
+situation of this country presented a very different picture; and that
+the lives of the country gentlemen were passed in a very opposite manner
+from that unnatural state of the kingdom to which we have above alluded.
+Even the condition of the interior of the kingdom, as it is now seen,
+points to this happier state of things. Their chateaus, which are now
+deserted,--their silent chambers, with tarnished gilding and decaying
+tapestry, remind us of the days when the old nobleman was proud to spend
+his income on the decoration and improvement of his property; the
+library, on whose walls we see the family pictures, in those hunting and
+shooting dresses which tell of the healthier exercises of a country
+retirement; whilst on the shelves, there sleeps undisturbed the
+forgotten literature of the Augustan age of France--all this evidently
+shows, that there was once, at least, to be found in the interior of the
+kingdom, another and a different state of things. In the essays of
+Montaigne, the private life of a French gentleman is admirably
+depicted. His days appear to have been divided between his family, his
+library, and his estate. A French nobleman lived then happy in the seat
+of his ancestors. His family grew up around him; and he probably visited
+the town as rarely as the present nobility do the country,--the
+education of his children,--the care of his peasantry,--the rural
+labours of planting and gardening,--the sports of the country,--the
+_grandes chasses_ which he held in his park, surrounded by troops of
+servants who had been born on his estate, and who evinced their
+affection by initiating the young heir into all the mysteries of the
+chase, the enjoyment of the society of his friends and neighbours; all
+these varied occupations filled up the happy measure of his useful and
+enviable existence. The life of the country proprietor in these older
+days of France, assimilated, in short, in a great degree to the present
+manner of life amongst the same classes which is still observable in
+England.
+
+It is impossible to conceive any thing more striking than the difference
+between this picture of a French chateau in these older days, and the
+condition in which you find them at the present moment. We once visited
+the chateau of one of the principal noblemen in Provence; and he
+himself had the politeness to accompany us. The situation of the castle
+was perfectly beautiful; but on coming nearer, every thing showed that
+it was completely neglected. The different rooms, which were once
+superb, were now bare and unfurnished. The walks through the park, the
+seats and temples in the woods, and the superb gardens, were speedily
+going to decay. The surface of his ponds, in the midst of which the
+fountains still played, were covered with weeds, and the rank grass was
+waving round the bases of the marble statues, which were placed at the
+termination of the green alleys; every thing showed the riches, the
+care, and the taste of a former generation, and the carelessness, and
+neglect of the present. On remonstrating with the proprietor, he
+defended himself by telling us how lonely he should feel at such a
+distance from Paris: "_C'est toujours ici (said he), un triste sejour_."
+A collation was served up, and after this, being in want of amusement,
+he opened a closet in the corner of the room, and discovered to us, in
+its recess, a vast variety of toys, which he began to exhibit to the
+ladies, telling us, "that when forced to live in the country, he
+diverted his solitary hours with these entertaining little affairs."
+
+Nothing certainly can be more striking than this contrast between the
+modern and ancient life of a French proprietor or nobleman; and it is a
+question which must necessarily arise in the mind of every one, who has
+observed this remarkable difference, what are the causes to which so
+great a change is owing? Perhaps, if we look into it, this extraordinary
+change will be found to have arisen chiefly out of the vigorous, but
+dangerous policy of that age, when, under the administration of
+Richelieu, the power of the sovereign rose upon the ruins of the
+aristocracy--when the institution of standing armies first began to be
+systematically followed--and when, by the perfection of their police,
+and that vilest of all inventions, their espionage, the comfort, the
+security, and the confidence of society was destroyed, by the secret
+influence of these poisonous and pensioned menials of government. In the
+successful accomplishment of these three great objects, was involved the
+destruction of that older state of France, which was to be seen under
+Henry III. and IV. The schemes by which Richelieu succeeded in drawing
+the nobility from the interior of the country to Paris, the style of
+splendid living, sumptuous expences, and magnificent entertainments
+which he introduced, produced two unhappy effects; it removed them from
+their country seats, and forced them at the same time to drain their
+estates, in order to defray their increasing expences in the capital. It
+made them dependent in a great measure upon the crown; and thus tied
+them down to Paris. On the other hand, by what has been termed his
+_admirable_ police, by his encouragement to all informers, by the
+jealousy of any thing like private intercourse, he rendered the
+retirement of their homes, the fire-side of their families, instead of
+that sacred spot, around which was once seated all the charities of
+life, the very center of all that was hollow, gloomy, and suspicious. It
+was in this manner that the French seem actually to have been driven
+from the society of their families, to seek a kind of desperate solitude
+in public; and that which was at first a necessity, has, in the progress
+of time, become an established habit. But I have to apologise for
+introducing, in a chapter of this light nature, and that perhaps in too
+strong language, these vague conjectures upon so serious a subject as
+this change in the condition of French society.
+
+One necessary effect of the taste for publicity, formerly mentioned, is,
+that in France every thing is in some way or other attempted to be made
+a _spectacle_; and this favourite word itself has gradually grown into
+such universal usage, that it has acquired such power over the minds of
+all classes of the people, as to be hardly ever out of their mouths.
+Whatever they are describing, be it grave or gay, serious or ludicrous,
+a comedy or a tragedy, a scene in the city or in the country; in short,
+every thing, of whatever nature or character it may chance to be, which
+is seen in public, is included under this all-comprehensive term; and
+the very highest praise which can be given it, is, "Ah Monsieur, c'est
+un _vrai_ spectacle. C'est un spectacle tout a _fait superbe_." It is
+this taste for spectacles, this inordinate passion for every thing
+producing _effect_, every thing which can add in this manner to what
+they conceive ought to be the necessary arrangement in all public
+exhibitions, which has, in many of these exhibitions, completely
+destroyed all the deeper feelings which they would otherwise naturally
+be calculated to produce. It is this taste which has created that
+dreadful and disgusting anomaly in national antiquities, the Musee des
+Monumens Francois, which has mangled and dilapidated the monuments of
+the greatest men, and the memorials of the proudest days of France, to
+produce in Paris a spectacle worthy of the _grande nation_. It is this
+same taste, which, in that solemn commemoration of the death of their
+king, the _service solennel_ for Louis XVI. contrived to introduce a
+species of affected parade,--a detailed and theatrical sort of grief,--a
+kind of meretricious mummery of sorrow, which banished all the feelings,
+and almost completely destroyed the impression which such a scene in any
+other country would inevitably have produced. Any thing, it may be
+easily imagined, which gratifies this general taste for public
+exhibitions, and any thing which is fitted to increase their effect, is
+greeted by the French with the highest applause. One would have
+imagined, that the first appearance of Lord Wellington in the French
+opera, would, to most Frenchmen, have been a circumstance certainly not
+to make an exhibition of: Very far from it--The presence of Lord
+Wellington added greatly to the general effect of the spectacle. This
+was all the French thought of; and he was received, if possible, with
+more enthusiastic applause, and more reiterated greetings than the royal
+family of France. Would a French conqueror have met with the same
+reception in the opera at London?
+
+When the reviews of the Russian troops were daily occurring in the Champ
+de Mars, an anxiety to examine the state of their discipline, and the
+general condition of their army, induced us punctually to attend them.
+What was our astonishment, when we saw _several_ barouches full of
+French ladies, seemingly taking the greatest delight in superintending
+the manoeuvres of the very men who had conquered the armies, and occupied
+the capital of their country; and delighted with the attentions which
+were paid them by the different Russian officers who had led them to
+victory?
+
+But there is yet another exhibition in Paris, which is at once the most
+singular in its nature, and which shows, in the very strongest light,
+this general deep-set passion in the French, for the creation of what
+they imagine the necessary _effect_ which ought to be attended to in
+every thing which is displayed in public, I mean that extraordinary
+exhibition which they term the Catacombs. These catacombs are large
+subterraneous excavations, which stretch themselves to a great extent
+under Paris; and which were originally the quarries which furnished the
+stones for building the greater part of that capital. You arrive at them
+by descending, by torch light, a narrow winding stair, which strikes
+perpendicularly into the bosom of the earth; and which, although its
+height is not above 70 feet, leads you to a landing-place, so dark and
+dismal, that it might be as well in the centre of the earth as so near
+its surface. After walking for a considerable time through different
+obscure subterranean streets, you arrive at the great stone gate of the
+catacombs, above which you can read by the light of the torches, "_The
+Habitation of the Dead._" On entering, you find yourself in a dark wide
+hall, supported by broad stone pillars, with a low arched roof, the
+further end of which is hid in complete obscurity; but the walls of
+which, (as they are illuminated by the livid and feeble gleam of the
+torches), are discovered to be completely formed of human bones. All
+this, as far as I have yet described,--- the subterranean streets which
+you traverse,--the dark gate of the great hall, over which you read the
+simple but solemn inscription,--and the gloom and silence of the
+chambers, whose walls you discover to be furnished in this terrible
+manner, is fitted to produce a most deep and powerful effect. To find
+yourself the only living being, surrounded on every side by the dead; to
+be the only thing that possesses the consciousness of existence, while
+millions of those who have once _been_ as you _are_--millions of all
+ages, from the infant who has just looked in upon this world, in its
+innocent road to heaven, to the aged, who has fallen in the fullness of
+years;--and the young, the gay, and the beautiful of former centuries,
+lie all cold and silent around you:--it is impossible that these deep
+and united feelings should not powerfully affect the mind,--should not
+lead it to rivet its thoughts upon that last scene, which all are to act
+alone, and where, in the cold and unconscious company of the dead, we
+are here destined to "end the strange, eventful history" of our nature:
+But unfortunately, the guide, who now approaches you, insists upon your
+examining the details, which he conceives it is his duty to point out;
+and it is then that you discover, that this prevailing taste for
+producing effect, this love of the arrangements necessary to complete
+the _spectacle_, has invaded even this sacred receptacle. The ornaments
+which he points out, and which are curiously framed of the whitest and
+most polished bones; little altars which are built of the same materials
+in the corners of the chambers, and crowned with what the artists have
+imagined the handsomest skulls; and the frequent poetical quotations,
+which, upon a nearer view, you discern upon the walls;--all this, in the
+very worst style of French taste, evinces, that the same unhallowed
+hands which had dared to violate the monuments of their heroes, have not
+scrupled to intrude their presumptuous and miserable efforts, even into
+the humbler sanctuary allotted to the dead.
+
+I have above described the singular, and, to a stranger, most
+entertaining scenes which take place at the French balls. If, however,
+owing to this extraordinary state of manners, to the ludicrous ardour of
+the old ladies, and the very moderate proportion of the young ones, a
+French ball is more the scene of aged folly, than of youthful pleasure,
+it must be allowed, that in another style of society, their lesser
+parties, they far excel us. The conversation in these is easy, natural,
+and often even fascinating. The terms of polite familiarity with which
+you yourself are regarded, and with which you are encouraged to treat
+all around you; the absence of every thing like stiffness, or formality;
+the little interludes of music, in which, either in singing, or in
+performing on some instrument, most of those you meet are able to take a
+part; the round games which are often introduced, and where all forget
+themselves to be happy, and to make others so,--this species of party is
+certainly something far superior to those crowded assemblies, engrafted
+now, as it would appear, with general consent, upon English society;
+and which, with a ludicrous perversity, we have denominated by that
+sacred word of Home, which has so long connected itself with scenes of
+tranquil and unobtrusive enjoyment.
+
+After having given such a picture of the general state of French
+society, as we have presented in this chapter, it would be highly unjust
+if we did not mention, that to the above descriptions of life and
+manners, we found many exceptions. That we met with many very
+intelligent men, of liberal education and gentlemanly conduct; and that
+in the town where we resided, and indeed generally during our travels,
+we experienced the greatest hospitality and kindness. The most amiable
+features in the French character are shewn in their conduct to
+strangers. But this is one of the few points in which we think they
+deserve the imitation of our countrymen; and we have been the more full
+in our observations upon their faults, because we trust that there may
+ever remain a marked difference between the two nations.
+
+The present we consider as the moment when all those who have had
+opportunities of judging of the French character, ought in duty to make
+public the information they have collected; for it is now that a more
+perfect intercourse must produce its effects upon the two nations; and
+taking it as an established maxim, that "vice to be hated, needs only to
+be seen," we have thus hastily laid our observations before the public,
+claiming their indulgence for the manifold faults to which our anxious
+desire to avail ourselves of the favourable moment has unavoidably given
+rise.
+
+
+REGISTER OF THE WEATHER.
+
+The climate of the south of France is, very generally, recommended for
+those invalids who are suffering under pulmonary complaints. The author
+of the foregoing work having resided at Aix, in Provence, during the
+winter months, has thought it right to publish the following short
+Register of the Weather, for the use of those who may have it in view to
+try the benefit of change of climate. His object is to show, that
+although, in general, the climate is much milder than in England or
+Scotland, yet there is much greater variety than is generally imagined.
+Upon the whole, he conceives, that he derived considerable benefit from
+his residence at Aix. But such were the difficulties in travelling, and
+so great was the want of comfort in the houses in the south of France,
+that he is of opinion, that in most cases a residence in Devonshire
+would be found fully as beneficial.
+
+* * *
+
+From experience in his own case, he can venture to affirm, that where
+the patient, labouring under a pulmonary complaint, visits the south of
+France, he should perform the journey by sea, which appears to him as
+beneficial as the land journey is hurtful.
+
+* * *
+
+In keeping the following Register, the thermometer was in the shade,
+though in a warm situation. The time of observation was between 12 and 1
+in France, and between 10 and 11 in Edinburgh.
+
+
+=AIX.=
+
+Dec.                                                                 _Ther_
+
+12.  Air delightful, like a fine day in June--sun very powerful,      60-1/4
+
+13.  The air rather damp and heavy--the sun very powerful,            65-3/4
+
+14.  Excepting in the sun, it was cold to-day,
+like to a spring day--the _Vent de Bise_ prevailed in the morning,    59
+
+15.  Frosty day--but between twelve and two the sun powerful,
+and the climate delightful,                                           56-3/4
+
+16.  The air frosty, but the sun very powerful--temperature
+delightful, though sharp and bracing--air very dry,                   56-3/4
+
+17.  Air more mild--sun exceedingly hot--this was a charming day--the
+air still sufficiently bracing,                                       59
+
+18.  No sun to-day--very mild air, but damp,                          54-1/2
+
+19.  No sun to-day--air very damp, and a little rain--a mild day,
+but very disagreeable,                                                56-3/4
+
+20.  Rain all night--thick mist in the morning, air damp--at twelve,
+the day broke up, and it was pleasant,                                54-1/2
+
+21.  Rain in the night--day damp, raw and cold,                       52-1/4
+
+22.  Day cleared up about twelve--air rather damp and raw--a
+great deal of rain in the night,                                      52-1/4
+
+23.  Clear day, but wind fresh and cold--pleasant in the sun,         53-1/2
+
+24.  Clear day--wind fresh and unpleasant--air damp,                  53-1/2
+
+25.  Clear day--wind very cold, but pleasant in the sun,              52-1/4
+
+26.  Day very cloudy, with rain--rain all night--air damp
+and very cold,                                                        50
+
+27.  Day still cloudy, though clearing up--air rather raw,            52-1/2
+
+28.  Day clear, morning frosty, but at noon temperature delightful,   54-1/2
+
+29.  Day clear, frosty, at twelve most charming,                      54-1/2
+
+30.  The same as yesterday,                                           54-1/2
+
+31.  Ditto,     ditto,                                                54-1/2
+
+1815. Jan. 1.  Day frosty, very cold in the morning, ice of one-fourth
+of an inch on the pools; at twelve most delightful in the sun,        52-1/4
+
+2.  Clear frosty day, very pleasant in the sun,                       52-1/4
+
+3.  Dark, cloudy, raw and cold; no going out,                         45-1/2
+
+4.  A clear frosty day, very cold, but pleasant in the sun,           47-3/4
+
+5.  Intensely cold and cloudy; no sun,                                40
+
+6.  Intensely cold, a bitter wind, cloudy, and no sun,                41
+
+7.  Not quite so cold, but raw, windy and disagreeable;
+snow at night,                                                        47-3/4
+
+8.  Very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,                      44-3/4
+
+9.  The same as yesterday,                                            43-1/4
+
+10.  Air much milder; very pleasant in the sun,                       50
+
+11.  Cold and windy; air rather raw; the _mistral_ blowing,           50
+
+12.  Cold and windy; _mistral_ blowing,                               45-1/2
+
+13.  Wind fallen, but cold continues; air more dry,                   44-1/4
+
+14.  Snow in the night, rain in the morning; cold and raw day,        45-1/2
+
+15.  Cold, but more dry; no sun, very unpleasant, and every
+appearance of snow,                                                   43-1/4
+
+16.  Snow in the night, dry cold day, but brilliant and
+powerful sun,                                                         41
+
+17.  Very high _mistral_, blowing intensely cold; air milder
+than yesterday,                                                       43-1/4
+
+18.  Still very cold, but pleasant in the sun; no wind,               43-1/4
+
+19.  Cold increased, hard frost; not wind,                            34-1/4
+
+20.  Cold continues, but not so severe,                               38-3/4
+
+21.  Clear frosty day, but cold diminished; delightful
+in the sun,                                                           43-1/4
+
+22.  Clear frosty day, but cold; sun very powerful                    43-1/4
+
+23.  Clear frosty day, sun pleasant,                                  48-1/4
+
+24.  Cloudy and damp, but air milder; no sun,                         43-1/4
+
+25.  Rain the greater part of the day, cloudy and damp; air milder,   43-1/4
+
+26.  Cloudy all day, but air milder,                                  47-3/4
+
+27.  Cloudy and damp; but the air very mild,                          50
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto                                             50
+
+29.  Day clear and sunny, very pleasant                               54-1/2
+
+30.  Rainy all day long; air colder,                                  50
+
+31.  Day clears up, but air moist; air mild,                          54-1/2
+
+Feb. 1.  Day cloudy and damp; air mild,                               52-1/4
+
+2.  Day very clear, delightful sun,                                   54
+
+3.  Day cloudy and damp, air very mild,                               52-1/2
+
+4.  Day clear, very windy, but air very mild,                         56-3/4
+
+5.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, but air colder,              52-1/4
+
+6.  Day very clear, bright sun, no wind, air mild                     54-1/2
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+8.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                        54-1/2
+
+9.  Day cloudy, a little rain, air colder,                            52-1/4
+
+10.  Day very cloudy, a little rain, air mild,
+but damp, heavy, and unpleasant,                                      54-1/2
+
+11.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       54-1/2
+
+12.  Day clearer, but still heavy, and rather damp; air mild          54-1/2
+
+13.  Day damp, cloudy, great deal of rain wind, air cold,             50
+
+14.  Much the same,                                                   50
+
+15.  Fine clear day, sun very hot, air mild,                          56-3/4
+
+16.  Raw and damp, a little rain,                                     54-1/2
+
+17.  Delightful day, but good deal of wind; sun very powerful,        56-3/4
+
+18.  Delightful day, no wind, sun very powerful,                      61-1/4
+
+19.  Ditto    ditto, high wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+20.  Ditto    ditto, less wind,                                       61-1/4
+
+21.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto                                       61-1/4
+
+22.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+23.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+24.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+25.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      61-1/4
+
+26.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+27.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+28.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                      64
+
+Mar. 1.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                  61-1/2
+
+2.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64-1/2
+
+3.  Delightful day, sun very powerful,                                64
+
+4.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+5.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+6.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       64
+
+7.  Ditto    ditto ditto ditto,                                       50
+
+8.  Day damp and raw, rain in the evening,                            54-1/2
+
+9.  Fine day, but high wind,                                          60-1/4
+
+10.  Day damp and raw,                                                54-1/2
+
+11.  Day very cold, high wind, a little hail,                         52-1/4
+
+12.  Cold and raw, high wind, and a little rain,                      54-1/2
+
+
+=EDINBURGH.=
+
+Dec.                                                                _Ther_
+
+12.  Misty and damp--cleared up at mid-day,
+the thermometer rose to 54,                                           44
+
+13.  Fine clear day,                                                  45
+
+14.  Mild and damp,                                                   40
+
+15.  Showery and disagreeable,                                        45
+
+16.  Wind and rain,                                                   47
+
+17.  A great deal of rain and very stormy,                            44
+
+18.  Incessant rain--very windy at night,                             42
+
+19.  Heavy showers of rain and sleet,                                 39
+
+20.  A fine clear day,                                                32
+
+21.  A fine day,                                                      31
+
+22.  A fine day,                                                      37
+
+23.  A cold east wind,                                                32
+
+24.  A very cold N. E. wind,                                          35
+
+25.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+26.  Cold wind and showers of snow,                                   33
+
+27.  Cold north wind--damp and dark,                                  34
+
+28.  Dark and damp,                                                   34
+
+29.  A good deal of snow,                                             33
+
+30.  Stormy and tempestuous,                                          45
+
+31.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+1815
+Jan. 1.  A fine day,                                                  35
+
+2.  Cloudy and damp,                                                  47
+
+3.  Cloudy,                                                           44
+
+4.  Very rainy,                                                       45
+
+5.  Mist and rain,                                                    38
+
+6.  A fine day,                                                       34
+
+7.  Damp, and a good deal of rain,                                    38
+
+8.  Clear frost--some snow,                                           30
+
+9.  Wind and rain,                                                    42
+
+10.  Snow in the forenoon--a perfect tempest of wind and
+rain at night,                                                        33
+
+11.  A great deal of snow during the night,                           32
+
+12.  A fine day,                                                      34
+
+13.  A fine day--snow melting,                                        37
+
+14.  A fine day,                                                      40
+
+15.  A fine day,                                                      30
+
+16.  A good deal of rain,                                             37
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      35
+
+18.  Very gloomy,                                                     32
+
+19.  Hard frost in the night--very gloomy,                            32
+
+20.  A great deal of snow,                                            35
+
+21.  Snow,                                                            34
+
+22.  Clear fine day,                                                  31
+
+23.  Very hard frost in the night--fine day,                          25
+
+24.  Very cold,                                                       29
+
+25.  Good day, but very cold,                                         22
+
+26.  A great deal of snow,                                            32
+
+27.  Snow--a cold north wind,                                         34
+
+28.  Snow and hail,                                                   32
+
+29.  Rain and snow--very wet,                                         36
+
+30.  Very wet and disagreeable,                                       36
+
+31.  A fine mild day,                                                 35
+
+Feb. 1.  Very damp--heavy rain in the evening,                        38
+
+2.  Rain, and very thick mist,                                        40
+
+3.  A fine day,                                                       38
+
+4.  Damp and rainy,                                                   38
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       40
+
+6.  Damp and rainy,                                                   40
+
+7.  Very mild, but damp and cloudy,                                   45
+
+8.  A fine day; rain in the evening,                                  45
+
+9.  A very fine day; quite summer,                                    38
+
+10.  A fine day,                                                      32
+
+11.  A pretty good day; rather damp and cloudy,                       45
+
+12.  A fine forenoon, rain from two o'clock,                          45
+
+13.  A fine day,                                                      45
+
+14.  Cloudy and damp,                                                 45
+
+15.  Cloudy and some rain,                                            44
+
+16.  Damp and showery,                                                43
+
+17.  A fine day,                                                      41
+
+18.  Cloudy, and a cold N. E. wind,                                   41
+
+19.  Damp and rainy, very windy in the evening,                       45
+
+20.  A cold north wind; showers of rain,                              42
+
+21.  Showery,                                                         45
+
+22.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                    50
+
+23.  Quite a summer day,                                              49
+
+24.  A good deal of rain in the morning,                              47
+
+25.  Rain; very tempestuous at night,                                 45
+
+26.  A cold north wind,                                               38
+
+27.  A pretty good day,                                               38
+
+28.  A charming summer day,                                           48
+
+Mar. 1  Rainy,                                                        48
+
+2.  A very fine day,                                                  38
+
+3.  A pretty good day, but windy,                                     45
+
+4.  A very fine day,                                                  42
+
+5.  A fine day,                                                       45
+
+6.  A very fine day,                                                  43
+
+7.  A pretty good day, but a perfect tempest of wind
+and rain in the night,                                                43
+
+8.  A very good day,                                                  44
+
+9.  Showers of snow,                                                  36
+
+10.  A very cold north wind,                                          32
+
+11.  A very cold day,                                                 35
+
+12.  A very cold wind, and showers of snow,                           40
+
+
+FINIS.
+
+
+MICHAEL ANDERSON,
+
+PRINTER, EDINBURGH
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] This statement, which we had from an officer who was with him at the
+time, may be easily reconciled with the account of the battle given by
+La Baume, which is in some measure inconsistent in its own parts.
+
+[2] "See, Monsieur le Count,--said I, rising up, and laying some of King
+William's shillings on the table,--by jingling and rubbing one against
+another, for seventy years, in one body's pocket or another, they are
+become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling from
+another. The English, like ancient medals, keep more apart, and passing
+but few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine
+hand of nature has given them. They are not so pleasant to feel,--but,
+in return, the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see
+whose image and superscription they bear."
+
+_Sentimental Journey_, Vol. II. p. 87.
+
+[3] De l'Allemagne, tom. 2d. 303.
+
+[4] "We have no more war."
+
+[5] "Great silence."--"Ah! how terrible is this house! It is the house
+of God, and the gate of Heaven."
+
+[6] "Don't be alarmed, Sir; this is nothing."
+
+[7] "War! war!"
+
+[8] A small bit of wood.
+
+[9] "Adieu! to meet at supper."
+
+[10] "It is well enough for the moment, but this will not last long."
+
+[11] "He shewed at his sports, that spirit of tyranny which he has since
+manifested on the great stage of the world; and he who was doomed one
+day to make Europe tremble, commenced by being the master and terror of
+a troop of children."
+
+[12] Such are the emphatic expressions made use of by a French
+gentleman, who took the trouble to draw up for me a short memoir,
+containing what he considered the most correct and well authenticated
+circumstances in the political life of Napoleon.
+
+[13] "Sire," said a General to him, while congratulating him on the
+victory of Montmirail, "what a glorious day, if we did not see around us
+so many towns and countries destroyed." "So much the better," said
+Napoleon; "that supplies me with soldiers!"
+
+[14] "Well, in an hour the ladies of Rheims will be in a fine fright."
+
+[15] They seize him, they conduct him to the town-hall, before a
+military commission, which proceeds to his trial, or rather to his
+condemnation. An hour was scarce elapsed when an officer appears, orders
+the doors to be opened, and demands if sentence is pronounced. They tell
+him that the judges are about to put the question to the vote, "Let them
+instantly shoot him," said the officer; "this is the Emperor's order."
+The unfortunate Goualt is condemned.--The voice of mourning is heard
+throughout the whole city. The proprietor of the house which Bonaparte
+had chosen for his head-quarters solicits an audience; he obtains it.
+"Sire, (said M. Duchatel), a day of triumph ought to be a day of mercy;
+I come to entreat your Majesty to grant to the whole city of Troyes the
+pardon of one of her fellow-citizens, who has been condemned to death."
+"Begone! (said the tyrant, with a savage look), you forget that you are
+in my presence." It was 11 o'clock at night when the unfortunate man
+left the town-hall, escorted by gens-d'armes, and carrying, attached to
+his back and breast, a writing in large characters, in these words,
+"Traitor to his country," which was read by light of flambeaux. This
+heart-rending assembly advanced towards the market-place, appointed for
+the execution of criminals. There they wished to bind the eyes of the
+accused;--he refused, and said, with a firm voice, that he knew how to
+die for his King. He himself gave the signal to fire, and exclaiming,
+"Long live the King! Long live Louis XVIII!" he drew his last breath.
+
+[16] Revenge is their first law, lying the second, and to deny their God
+is the third.
+
+[17] "The distinguishing features of this man are, lying and the love of
+life; I go to attack him, I shall beat him, and I shall see him at my
+feet demanding his life."
+
+[18] "Promote this officer; for if you do not, he knows the way to
+promote himself."
+
+[19] "To dissipate the royalists, and to batter the Parisians even at
+their firesides."
+
+[20] "At break of day the Austrians commenced the attack, at first
+gently enough, afterwards more briskly, and at last with such fury, that
+the French were broken on all sides. At this frightful moment, when the
+dead and the dying strewed the earth, the first Consul, placed in the
+middle of his guard, appeared immoveable, insensible, and as if struck
+by thunder. In vain his Generals sent him their Aides de Camp, one after
+another, to demand assistance. In vain did the Aides de Camp wait his
+orders. He gave none. He scarcely exhibited signs of life. Many thought,
+that, believing the battle lost, he wished himself to be killed. Others,
+with more reason, persuaded themselves, that he had lost all power of
+thought, and that he neither heard nor saw what was said or what passed
+about him. General Berthier came to beg he would instantly withdraw;
+instead of answering him, he lay down on the ground. In the meantime,
+the French fled as fast as possible. The battle was lost, when suddenly
+we heard it said, that General Dessaix was coming up with fresh troops.
+Presently we saw him appear at their head. The runaways rallied behind
+his columns. Their courage returned--fortune changed. The French
+attacked in their turn, with the same fury with which, they had been
+attacked; they burned to efface the shame of their defeat in the
+morning."
+
+[21] "I die regretting that I have not lived long enough for my
+country."
+
+[22] We may lay it down as a maxim, that in every state the desire of
+glory exists with the liberty of the subjects, and diminishes with the
+same; glory is never the companion of servitude.
+
+[23] "The youth of the present day are brought up in very different
+principles: the love of glory, above all, has taken deep root; it has
+become the distinguishing attribute of the national character, exalted
+by twenty years of continued success. But this very glory was become our
+idol; it absorbed all the thoughts of the brave fellows whose wounds had
+rendered them unfit for service--all the hopes of the youthful warriors
+who for the first time bore arms; an unlooked-for blow has been struck,
+and we now find in our hearts a blank similar to that which a lover
+feels who has lost the object of his passion; every thing he sees, every
+thing he hears, renews his grief. This sentiment renders our situation
+vague and painful; every one seeks to hide from himself the void which
+he feels exist in his heart. He is looked upon as humbled, after twenty
+years of continued triumph, for having lost a single stake, which
+unfortunately was the stake of honour, and which had become the rule of
+our destinies."--CARONT'S MEMOIR.
+
+[24] "The French are the only people in the universe could laugh even
+while freezing."
+
+[25] "Well, there's more materials--more flesh for the cannon!"
+
+[26] "My faith, there's a fine consumption." The word _Consommation_, is
+also a mess, a finishing. It is not easy to say whether it was used in
+one or all of these senses by Napoleon.
+
+[27] "It was icy cold. The dying were yet breathing; the crowd of dead
+bodies, and the black gaps which the blood had made in the snow, were
+horribly contrasted. The staff were sensibly affected. The Emperor alone
+looked coolly on that scene of mourning and of blood. I pushed my horse
+a few paces before his, for I was anxious to observe him at such a
+moment. You would have said that he was devoid of every human feeling;
+that all that surrounded him existed but for him. He spoke coolly on the
+events of the evening before. In passing before a groupe of Russian
+grenadiers who had been massacred, the horse of one of the aides-de-camp
+started. The Emperor perceived it: "That horse (said he, coldly) is a
+coward."
+
+[28] "Workmen who had just left their workshops, peasants escaped from
+the villages, with bonnets on their heads, and a staff in their hands,
+in six months became intrepid soldiers, and in two years skilful
+officers and generals, formidable to the oldest generals in Europe."
+
+[29] "They cut down the crops of men three times a-year."
+
+[30] "It is only under a government as wise and as great as yours, that
+a simple soldier like me could have formed the project of carrying the
+war into Egypt.--Yes, Directors, scarcely shall I be master of Egypt,
+and of the solitudes of Palestine, than England will give you a first
+rate ship of the line for a sack of corn."
+
+[31] "If I present myself with troops (said Napoleon) it is only to
+please my friends, for in truth, I have the greatest desire of appearing
+there as of old; Louis XIV. appeared in the Parliament _in boots_, and a
+whip in his hand."
+
+[32] "I am one of those whom men kill, but whom they cannot dishonour;
+in three months we shall have peace--either the enemy shall be chased
+from our territory, or I shall be no more."
+
+[33] "I have called you around me to do good; you have done ill. You
+have among you persons devoted to England, who correspond with the
+Prince Regent, by means of the Advocate Deseze. Eleven-twelfths of you
+are good; the rest are factious. Return to your departments;--I shall
+have my eye on you. I am one whom men may kill, but whom they cannot
+dishonour. Who is he among you who could support the load of government.
+It has crushed the Constituent Assembly, which dictated laws to a weak
+king. The Fauxbourg St Antoine would have assisted me, but it would soon
+have abandoned you. What are become of the Jacobins, the Girondins, the
+Vergniaus, the Guadets, and so many others? They are dead. You have
+sought to _bespatter_ me in the eyes of France. This is a heinous
+crime;--besides, what is the throne? Four pieces of gilded wood covered
+with velvet. I had pointed out to you a Secret Committee; it is there
+that you should have established your griefs. It was in the family that
+our _dirty linen should have been washed_. I have a title; you have
+none. What are you in the Constitution? Nothing. You have no authority.
+The Throne is the Constitution. Every thing is in the throne, and in me.
+I repeat it to you, you have among you factious persons. Mr Laine is a
+wicked man; the rest are factious. I know them, and I shall pursue them.
+I ask you, Was it while the enemy were among us that you ought to have
+done such things? Nature has endowed me with great courage, it can
+resist every thing. Much has it cost my pride, but I have sacrificed it.
+But I am above your miserable declamations. I had need of
+consolation,--and you have dishonoured me. But no; my victories crush
+your complaints. I am one of those who triumph or who die. Return to
+your departments.
+
+[34] "One of his Ministers one day addressed him, presenting him a
+report which he had desired. The subject was a conspiracy against his
+person. I was present at that scene; I expected, I confess, to see him
+enter in a fury, thunder forth against the traitors, threaten the
+magistrates, and accuse them of negligence. Not at all; he ran over the
+paper without the least sign of agitation. Judge of my surprise, or
+rather what sweet emotion I felt, when he pronounced these _touching and
+sublime_ words:--Count, the state has not suffered, the magistrates have
+not been insulted. It was only my person they aimed at; I pity them for
+not knowing that my every wish is for the good of France; but every man
+may go astray. Tell the ungrateful men that I pardon them." Now, I defy
+the most faithful royalist, who should have witnessed such an action,
+not to exclaim--If Heaven was to give an usurper to France, let us thank
+it for having given this one! But stop, unfortunate one: your eyes have
+indeed seen, your ears have heard; believe nothing, but be present at
+the levee of this hero, so magnanimous, so little desirous of revenging
+himself. The doors are opened--Behold him! The crowd of courtiers
+surround him--all fix their eyes on him--his face is changed--the
+muscles are violently contracted--his whole appearance is that of a
+ruffian; a death-like silence reigns in the assembly--the Prince has not
+yet spoken, but he surveys the group: He perceives the same officer,
+who, two days before, had presented him the report. "Count (said he),
+are these vile conspirators executed? Are their accomplices in chains?
+Have the executioners given a new example to the imitators of those who
+aim at my life?"
+
+[35] "You wish to see us drawn on hurdles to the scaffold."
+
+[36] These nutshells.
+
+[37] Swords of honour--guns of honour.
+
+[38] Saucepan of honour.
+
+[39] "Moreau was conversing with the Emperor Alexander, from whom he was
+only distant half a horse's length. It is likely, that they perceived
+from the place this brilliant staff, and fired on it at random. Moreau
+alone was struck; a cannon-ball broke his right knee, and passing
+through the horse's side, carried off the flesh of his left leg. The
+generous Alexander shed tears. Colonel Rapatel rushed towards Moreau,
+who uttered a long sigh, and then fainted. Returned to himself, he spoke
+with the utmost coolness. He said to Monsieur Rapatel, "I am lost, my
+friend, but it is so glorious to die for such a cause, and under the
+eyes of so great a Prince!" A few minutes afterwards, he said to the
+Emperor Alexander himself, "Nothing remains, Sire, save the trunk; but
+the heart is there, and the head is your's." He must have suffered the
+most excruciating pain; but he called for a segar, and quietly began
+smoking. Mr Wylie, first surgeon to the Emperor, hastened to amputate
+the limb, which was most severely used. During this cruel operation,
+Moreau scarce shewed a change of countenance, and did not cease to smoke
+his segar. The amputation performed, Mr Wylie examined the right leg,
+and found it in such a state, that he could not refrain from expressing
+his terror. "I understand you," said Moreau, "you must cut off this one
+too.--Well, do it quickly.--However, I would rather have died." He
+wanted to write to his wife; and he wrote to her, with a steady hand,
+these words:--"MY DEAR FRIEND,--The battle was decided three days
+ago.--I have had both legs carried off by a bullet--that rascal
+Bonaparte is always lucky. They have performed the amputation as well as
+possible. The army has made a retrograde movement, but it is not
+occasioned by any reverse, but from a manoeuvre, and in order to approach
+General Blucher.--Excuse my scribbling.--I love you, and I embrace you
+with all my heart. I have charged Rapatel to finish."--Immediately after
+this, he said, "I am not without danger, I know it well; but if I die,
+if a premature fate hurry me from a beloved wife and child--from my
+country, which I have wished to serve in spite of itself; do not forget
+to say to the French, who shall speak of me, that I die with the regret
+of not having accomplished my projects--To free my country from the
+frightful yoke that oppresses her;--to crush Bonaparte-every species of
+war, every possible means, were laudable. With what joy would I have
+consecrated the little talent I posses to the cause of humanity. My
+heart belonged to France."
+
+At seven o'clock, the sick man finding himself alone with Mr Svinine,
+said to him, with a faint voice, "I must absolutely dictate a letter to
+you."--Mr Svinine took up the pen, and sighing, traced the few following
+lines, dictated by Moreau.
+
+* * *
+
+"SIRE,--I sink into the tomb with the same sentiments of respect,
+admiration, and devotion with which your Majesty has always inspired me,
+since I have had the happiness of approaching your person."
+
+"In pronouncing these last words, the sick man stopped short and shut
+his eyes. Mr Svinine waited, thinking that Moreau was deliberating on
+the sequel of the letter--Vain hope--Moreau was no move."
+
+[40] "Well, my good woman;--You expect the Emperor, don't you?" 'Yes,
+Sir; I hope we shall have a sight of him.' "Well, my good woman, what do
+you folks say of the Emperor?" 'That he is a great villain.' "Eh, my
+good woman; and what do you yourself say?" 'Shall I tell you frankly,
+Sir, what I think?--If I were the captain of the ship, I would only take
+him on board to drown him.'
+
+[41] "The Commissaries, on arriving at Calade, found him with his head
+leaning on his two hands, and his face bathed in tears. He told them
+that people decidedly aimed at his life; and that the mistress of the
+inn, who had not known him, had told him that the Emperor was detested
+as a rascal, and that they would only embark him to drown him. He would
+eat or drink nothing, however pressed to it; and though he might have
+been assured by the example of those who were at table with him, he made
+them bring him some bread and water from his carriage, which he ate with
+avidity. They waited for night to continue the journey; they were only
+two leagues from Aix. The populace of that town would not have been so
+easily constrained, as in the other towns, where he had already run such
+risks. The Sub-Prefect, taking with him the Lieutenant and six of the
+gens-d'armes, rode towards Calade. The night was dark, and the weather
+very cold; which double circumstance protected Napoleon much better than
+would have been effected by the strongest escort. The Sub-Prefect and
+the guards met his suite a few instants after they had quitted Calade,
+and followed him till he arrived at the gates of Aix, at two in the
+morning. After having changed horses, Bonaparte continuing his route,
+passed under the walls of the town, and the reiterated cries of "Long
+live the King," which were shouted forth by the inhabitants assembled on
+the ramparts. Arrived at the limits of the Department, at an inn called
+the Great Pagere, he stopped there for breakfast. General Bertrand
+proposed to the Sub-Prefect to ascend to the room of the Commissaries,
+where all were at breakfast before his departure. Here were ten or
+twelve persons. Napoleon was of the number; he had the dress of an
+Austrian officer, and a helmet on his head. Seeing the Sub-Prefect in
+his councillor's habit, he said to him, "You would not have known me in
+this dress; it is these gentlemen who have made me take it, thinking it
+necessary to ensure my safety. I could have had an escort of 3000 men,
+which I refused, preferring to trust myself to French honour. I have not
+had reason to complain of that confidence from Fontainbleau to Avignon;
+but between that town and this, I have been insulted, and have been in
+great danger. The Provencals degrade themselves. Since I have been in
+France, I have not had a good regiment of Provencals under my orders.
+They are good for nothing but to make a noise. The Gascons are boasters,
+but at least they are brave."--At these words, one of the party, who no
+doubt was a Gascon, pulled out his shirt ruffle, and said, "that's
+pleasant." Bonaparte continuing to address himself to the Sub-Prefect,
+said to him, "What is the Prefect about?"--'He left this at the first
+news of the change which had happened at Paris.' "And his wife?" 'She
+had left it before.' "She then took the start. Do the people pay the
+revenue and the droits reunis?"--'Not a halfpenny.'--"Are there many
+English at Marseilles?" Here the Sub-Prefect related all that had lately
+passed in that port, and with what transports they had received the
+English. Bonaparte, who did not take much pleasure in such a recital,
+put an end to it, by saying to the Sub-Prefect, "Tell your Provencals
+that the Emperor is very ill pleased with them."
+
+"Arrived at Bouilledon, he shut himself up in an apartment, with his
+sister (Pauline Borghese)--Sentinels were placed at the door.
+Notwithstanding which, some ladies arriving at the gallery, which
+communicated with that room, beheld there an officer in Austrian
+uniform, who said to them, "Ladies, what do you wish to see?" 'We wish
+to see Napoleon.' "But that's myself." The ladies, looking at him, said,
+smiling, 'You are joking, Sir; you are not Napoleon.' "I assure you,
+ladies, it is I.--What!--You thought Napoleon must have a more wicked
+appearance. Don't they say that I am a wretch, a rascal?"--The ladies
+did not care to undeceive him. Bonaparte, not wishing to press them hard
+on this subject, turned the conversation.--But always occupied with his
+first idea, he returned to it immediately.--"Acknowledge, at least,
+ladies, that now, when fortune is against me, they say that I am a
+wretch, a miscreant, and a marauder. But do you know the meaning of all
+this? I wished to make France superior to England, and I have failed in
+this project."
+
+[42] "When we are on the paved streets of Paris, we perceive that the
+people do not there make the laws;--no convenience for pedestrians--no
+side pavement; the people seem to be a body separated from the other
+orders of the state--the rich and the great who possess equipages, have
+the right of crushing and mutilating them in the streets--a hundred
+victims expire every year under the wheels of the carriages."
+
+[43] "Before the revolution, the village contained four thousand
+inhabitants. It furnished, as its share to the general service of the
+church, and of the hospitals, as well as for the instruction of youth,
+five ecclesiastics, two sisters of charity, and three schoolmasters.
+These last are replaced by a riding-master, a drawing-master, and two
+music-masters. Out of eight manufactories of woollen and cotton stuffs,
+there remains but one. But in revenge, there are established two
+coffee-houses, one tobacco-shop, one restaurateur's shop, and one
+billiard-room, which flourish in a manner quite surprising. We reckoned
+formerly forty ploughmen. Twenty-five of these have become couriers,
+riders, and coachmen. Their place is filled up by women, who conduct the
+plough, and who, to amuse themselves, carry occasionally to the market,
+carts full of straw or of charcoal. The number of carpenters, masons,
+and other artisans, is diminished by about a half. But the price of all
+articles of workmanship having risen also one half; _it comes to the
+same thing, and a compensation is established_. One class of
+individuals, which the villages furnishes in great abundance, and in
+much too great a proportion, are livery servants and domestics of
+luxury. Whilst this lasts, the country will be depopulated of all those
+useful ranks who cultivate the soil, and the towns will be peopled with
+the idle and corrupt. Many women and young girls, who were only
+sempstresses and under servants, have found advancement in the great
+cities, and in the capital. They have become waiting maids,
+embroiderers, and milliners. One might say that luxury had exhausted our
+youth; all eyes are turned towards it, and it alone occupies every
+thought. Never, at any former period, did the contingent in lawyers,
+bailiffs, law students, physicians, and artists, exceed three or four;
+it is now raised to sixty-two: and what we should never have conceived
+in former days, there are now among us as many painters, poets,
+comedians, opera dancers, and travelling musicians, as a city of eighty
+thousand souls would have furnished thirty or forty years ago."
+
+[44] The variety of the laws and customs is attended with this effect,
+that the most intelligent advocate becomes as ignoramus when he finds
+himself in Gascony or in Normandy. He loses at Vernon a case which he
+had gained at Poissy. Select the most skilful for a consultation or for
+pleading; well, he will be under the necessity of having his advocate
+and his attorney, if we commit to his care a cause in most of the other
+courts.
+
+[45] "I can excuse, but do not envy those who can live as if they had
+neither suffered nor seen others suffer; but they must pardon me, who am
+unable to imitate them. These days of total and unheard-of degradation
+in human nature are yet before my eyes, press heavily on my soul, and
+fall incessantly from my pen, destined to retrace them even to my last
+hour."
+
+[46] The reader will easily perceive, that the end of this chapter was
+written at the time of Napoleon's landing from Elba. Not a word of it
+has been altered, for the author is convinced that it is an accurate
+picture of France in its present state.
+
+[47] "A Frenchman, (says Madame de Stael, with great truth,) can still
+continue to speak, even when he has no ideas."
+
+[48] "Their trifling, naturally intended for the toilet, seems to have
+become accessary to the formation of the general character of the
+nation: They trifle in council, they trifle at the head of an army, they
+trifle with an ambassador."
+
+[49] "Gentlemen, it is impossible to deceive persons enlightened as you
+are; I am absolutely going to cut off the head of this child: But before
+commencing, I must let you see that I am no quack. Well, in the
+meantime, as an exordium, Who is there among you who has the toothache?"
+"I," exclaimed instantly a sturdy peasant, &c.
+
+[50] "Gentlemen, in the universe there is but one sun; in the kingdom of
+France there is but one king; in the science of medicine there is
+Charini alone."
+
+[51] "You are a Scotchman?" 'Yes, Sir.' "Oh, how droll that is." 'And
+how is it droll, Sir?' "It is the country of Napoleon. It is an island,
+is it not?" 'Certainly not, Sir.' "On my faith, I thought they always
+called it the Island of Corse."
+
+[52] "Give a supper; that will make every body run."
+
+[53] "Even if Old Nick should ring his supper-bell, The French would
+lick their lips, and flock to H--II."
+
+[54] "Down with the tyrant! Down with the soldiers! Long live the
+Emperor! Long live the Marshals! Long live the army! Long live Louis,
+the wished-for Monarch! Long live the descendant of Good Henry IV.! Long
+live the nation! No feudal laws! No Kings! No nobility! No assessed
+taxes! No conscription."
+
+[55] "Long life to death!"
+
+[56] "Who, after having sacrificed millions of victims, could not die
+like a soldier."
+
+
+ERRATA. [Transcriber's note: already corrected.]
+
+Page 20. line    3. for _a_ read _est_.
+     21.        18. after _sont_ insert _de_.
+     97.         6. for _les_ read _des_.
+    156. last line, for _c'est_ read _ce m'est_.
+    272. line   20. for _des_ read _de_.
+    273.        17. for _des_ read _de_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Travels in France during the years
+1814-1815, by Archibald Alison and Patrick Fraser Tytler
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS IN FRANCE ***
+
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