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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of What I Saw in America, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: What I Saw in America
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: November 13, 2008 [EBook #27250]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Irma Špehar, Martin Pettit and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA
+
+BY
+
+G. K. CHESTERTON
+
+HODDER AND STOUGHTON
+
+LIMITED LONDON
+
+MCMXXII
+
+Printed in Great Britain by T. and A. CONSTABLE LTD. at the Edinburgh
+University Press
+
+
+
+
+_Contents_
+
+ PAGE
+
+WHAT IS AMERICA? 1
+
+A MEDITATION IN A NEW YORK HOTEL 19
+
+A MEDITATION IN BROADWAY 33
+
+IRISH AND OTHER INTERVIEWERS 47
+
+SOME AMERICAN CITIES 63
+
+IN THE AMERICAN COUNTRY 80
+
+THE AMERICAN BUSINESS MAN 97
+
+PRESIDENTS AND PROBLEMS 121
+
+PROHIBITION IN FACT AND FANCY 145
+
+FADS AND PUBLIC OPINION 163
+
+THE EXTRAORDINARY AMERICAN 182
+
+THE REPUBLICAN IN THE RUINS 195
+
+IS THE ATLANTIC NARROWING? 208
+
+LINCOLN AND LOST CAUSES 222
+
+WELLS AND THE WORLD STATE 235
+
+A NEW MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 253
+
+THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA 267
+
+THE SPIRIT OF ENGLAND 281
+
+THE FUTURE OF DEMOCRACY 295
+
+
+
+
+_What is America?_
+
+
+I have never managed to lose my old conviction that travel narrows the
+mind. At least a man must make a double effort of moral humility and
+imaginative energy to prevent it from narrowing his mind. Indeed there
+is something touching and even tragic about the thought of the
+thoughtless tourist, who might have stayed at home loving Laplanders,
+embracing Chinamen, and clasping Patagonians to his heart in Hampstead
+or Surbiton, but for his blind and suicidal impulse to go and see what
+they looked like. This is not meant for nonsense; still less is it meant
+for the silliest sort of nonsense, which is cynicism. The human bond
+that he feels at home is not an illusion. On the contrary, it is rather
+an inner reality. Man is inside all men. In a real sense any man may be
+inside any men. But to travel is to leave the inside and draw
+dangerously near the outside. So long as he thought of men in the
+abstract, like naked toiling figures in some classic frieze, merely as
+those who labour and love their children and die, he was thinking the
+fundamental truth about them. By going to look at their unfamiliar
+manners and customs he is inviting them to disguise themselves in
+fantastic masks and costumes. Many modern internationalists talk as if
+men of different nationalities had only to meet and mix and understand
+each other. In reality that is the moment of supreme danger--the moment
+when they meet. We might shiver, as at the old euphemism by which a
+meeting meant a duel.
+
+Travel ought to combine amusement with instruction; but most travellers
+are so much amused that they refuse to be instructed. I do not blame
+them for being amused; it is perfectly natural to be amused at a
+Dutchman for being Dutch or a Chinaman for being Chinese. Where they are
+wrong is that they take their own amusement seriously. They base on it
+their serious ideas of international instruction. It was said that the
+Englishman takes his pleasures sadly; and the pleasure of despising
+foreigners is one which he takes most sadly of all. He comes to scoff
+and does not remain to pray, but rather to excommunicate. Hence in
+international relations there is far too little laughing, and far too
+much sneering. But I believe that there is a better way which largely
+consists of laughter; a form of friendship between nations which is
+actually founded on differences. To hint at some such better way is the
+only excuse of this book.
+
+Let me begin my American impressions with two impressions I had before I
+went to America. One was an incident and the other an idea; and when
+taken together they illustrate the attitude I mean. The first principle
+is that nobody should be ashamed of thinking a thing funny because it is
+foreign; the second is that he should be ashamed of thinking it wrong
+because it is funny. The reaction of his senses and superficial habits
+of mind against something new, and to him abnormal, is a perfectly
+healthy reaction. But the mind which imagines that mere unfamiliarity
+can possibly prove anything about inferiority is a very inadequate mind.
+It is inadequate even in criticising things that may really be inferior
+to the things involved here. It is far better to laugh at a negro for
+having a black face than to sneer at him for having a sloping skull. It
+is proportionally even more preferable to laugh rather than judge in
+dealing with highly civilised peoples. Therefore I put at the beginning
+two working examples of what I felt about America before I saw it; the
+sort of thing that a man has a right to enjoy as a joke, and the sort of
+thing he has a duty to understand and respect, because it is the
+explanation of the joke.
+
+When I went to the American consulate to regularise my passports, I was
+capable of expecting the American consulate to be American. Embassies
+and consulates are by tradition like islands of the soil for which they
+stand; and I have often found the tradition corresponding to a truth. I
+have seen the unmistakable French official living on omelettes and a
+little wine and serving his sacred abstractions under the last
+palm-trees fringing a desert. In the heat and noise of quarrelling Turks
+and Egyptians, I have come suddenly, as with the cool shock of his own
+shower-bath, on the listless amiability of the English gentleman. The
+officials I interviewed were very American, especially in being very
+polite; for whatever may have been the mood or meaning of Martin
+Chuzzlewit, I have always found Americans by far the politest people in
+the world. They put in my hands a form to be filled up, to all
+appearance like other forms I had filled up in other passport offices.
+But in reality it was very different from any form I had ever filled up
+in my life. At least it was a little like a freer form of the game
+called 'Confessions' which my friends and I invented in our youth; an
+examination paper containing questions like, 'If you saw a rhinoceros
+in the front garden, what would you do?' One of my friends, I remember,
+wrote, 'Take the pledge.' But that is another story, and might bring Mr.
+Pussyfoot Johnson on the scene before his time.
+
+One of the questions on the paper was, 'Are you an anarchist?' To which
+a detached philosopher would naturally feel inclined to answer, 'What
+the devil has that to do with you? Are you an atheist?' along with some
+playful efforts to cross-examine the official about what constitutes an
+[Greek: archę]. Then there was the question, 'Are you in favour of
+subverting the government of the United States by force?' Against this I
+should write, 'I prefer to answer that question at the end of my tour
+and not the beginning.' The inquisitor, in his more than morbid
+curiosity, had then written down, 'Are you a polygamist?' The answer to
+this is, 'No such luck' or 'Not such a fool,' according to our
+experience of the other sex. But perhaps a better answer would be that
+given to W. T. Stead when he circulated the rhetorical question, 'Shall
+I slay my brother Boer?'--the answer that ran, 'Never interfere in
+family matters.' But among many things that amused me almost to the
+point of treating the form thus disrespectfully, the most amusing was
+the thought of the ruthless outlaw who should feel compelled to treat it
+respectfully. I like to think of the foreign desperado, seeking to slip
+into America with official papers under official protection, and sitting
+down to write with a beautiful gravity, 'I am an anarchist. I hate you
+all and wish to destroy you.' Or, 'I intend to subvert by force the
+government of the United States as soon as possible, sticking the long
+sheath-knife in my left trouser-pocket into Mr. Harding at the earliest
+opportunity.' Or again, 'Yes, I am a polygamist all right, and my
+forty-seven wives are accompanying me on the voyage disguised as
+secretaries.' There seems to be a certain simplicity of mind about these
+answers; and it is reassuring to know that anarchists and polygamists
+are so pure and good that the police have only to ask them questions and
+they are certain to tell no lies.
+
+Now that is a model of the sort of foreign practice, founded on foreign
+problems, at which a man's first impulse is naturally to laugh. Nor have
+I any intention of apologising for my laughter. A man is perfectly
+entitled to laugh at a thing because he happens to find it
+incomprehensible. What he has no right to do is to laugh at it as
+incomprehensible, and then criticise it as if he comprehended it. The
+very fact of its unfamiliarity and mystery ought to set him thinking
+about the deeper causes that make people so different from himself, and
+that without merely assuming that they must be inferior to himself.
+
+Superficially this is rather a queer business. It would be easy enough
+to suggest that in this America has introduced a quite abnormal spirit
+of inquisition; an interference with liberty unknown among all the
+ancient despotisms and aristocracies. About that there will be something
+to be said later; but superficially it is true that this degree of
+officialism is comparatively unique. In a journey which I took only the
+year before I had occasion to have my papers passed by governments which
+many worthy people in the West would vaguely identify with corsairs and
+assassins; I have stood on the other side of Jordan, in the land ruled
+by a rude Arab chief, where the police looked so like brigands that one
+wondered what the brigands looked like. But they did not ask me whether
+I had come to subvert the power of the Shereef; and they did not exhibit
+the faintest curiosity about my personal views on the ethical basis of
+civil authority. These ministers of ancient Moslem despotism did not
+care about whether I was an anarchist; and naturally would not have
+minded if I had been a polygamist. The Arab chief was probably a
+polygamist himself. These slaves of Asiatic autocracy were content, in
+the old liberal fashion, to judge me by my actions; they did not inquire
+into my thoughts. They held their power as limited to the limitation of
+practice; they did not forbid me to hold a theory. It would be easy to
+argue here that Western democracy persecutes where even Eastern
+despotism tolerates or emancipates. It would be easy to develop the
+fancy that, as compared with the sultans of Turkey or Egypt, the
+American Constitution is a thing like the Spanish Inquisition.
+
+Only the traveller who stops at that point is totally wrong; and the
+traveller only too often does stop at that point. He has found something
+to make him laugh, and he will not suffer it to make him think. And the
+remedy is not to unsay what he has said, not even, so to speak, to
+unlaugh what he has laughed, not to deny that there is something unique
+and curious about this American inquisition into our abstract opinions,
+but rather to continue the train of thought, and follow the admirable
+advice of Mr. H. G. Wells, who said, 'It is not much good thinking of a
+thing unless you think it out.' It is not to deny that American
+officialism is rather peculiar on this point, but to inquire what it
+really is which makes America peculiar, or which is peculiar to America.
+In short, it is to get some ultimate idea of what America _is_; and the
+answer to that question will reveal something much deeper and grander
+and more worthy of our intelligent interest.
+
+It may have seemed something less than a compliment to compare the
+American Constitution to the Spanish Inquisition. But oddly enough, it
+does involve a truth; and still more oddly perhaps, it does involve a
+compliment. The American Constitution does resemble the Spanish
+Inquisition in this: that it is founded on a creed. America is the only
+nation in the world that is founded on a creed. That creed is set forth
+with dogmatic and even theological lucidity in the Declaration of
+Independence; perhaps the only piece of practical politics that is also
+theoretical politics and also great literature. It enunciates that all
+men are equal in their claim to justice, that governments exist to give
+them that justice, and that their authority is for that reason just. It
+certainly does condemn anarchism, and it does also by inference condemn
+atheism, since it clearly names the Creator as the ultimate authority
+from whom these equal rights are derived. Nobody expects a modern
+political system to proceed logically in the application of such dogmas,
+and in the matter of God and Government it is naturally God whose claim
+is taken more lightly. The point is that there is a creed, if not about
+divine, at least about human things.
+
+Now a creed is at once the broadest and the narrowest thing in the
+world. In its nature it is as broad as its scheme for a brotherhood of
+all men. In its nature it is limited by its definition of the nature of
+all men. This was true of the Christian Church, which was truly said to
+exclude neither Jew nor Greek, but which did definitely substitute
+something else for Jewish religion or Greek philosophy. It was truly
+said to be a net drawing in of all kinds; but a net of a certain
+pattern, the pattern of Peter the Fisherman. And this is true even of
+the most disastrous distortions or degradations of that creed; and true
+among others of the Spanish Inquisition. It may have been narrow
+touching theology, it could not confess to being narrow about
+nationality or ethnology. The Spanish Inquisition might be admittedly
+Inquisitorial; but the Spanish Inquisition could not be merely Spanish.
+Such a Spaniard, even when he was narrower than his own creed, had to be
+broader than his own empire. He might burn a philosopher because he was
+heterodox; but he must accept a barbarian because he was orthodox. And
+we see, even in modern times, that the same Church which is blamed for
+making sages heretics is also blamed for making savages priests. Now in
+a much vaguer and more evolutionary fashion, there is something of the
+same idea at the back of the great American experiment; the experiment
+of a democracy of diverse races which has been compared to a
+melting-pot. But even that metaphor implies that the pot itself is of a
+certain shape and a certain substance; a pretty solid substance. The
+melting-pot must not melt. The original shape was traced on the lines of
+Jeffersonian democracy; and it will remain in that shape until it
+becomes shapeless. America invites all men to become citizens; but it
+implies the dogma that there is such a thing as citizenship. Only, so
+far as its primary ideal is concerned, its exclusiveness is religious
+because it is not racial. The missionary can condemn a cannibal,
+precisely because he cannot condemn a Sandwich Islander. And in
+something of the same spirit the American may exclude a polygamist,
+precisely because he cannot exclude a Turk.
+
+Now for America this is no idle theory. It may have been theoretical,
+though it was thoroughly sincere, when that great Virginian gentleman
+declared it in surroundings that still had something of the character of
+an English countryside. It is not merely theoretical now. There is
+nothing to prevent America being literally invaded by Turks, as she is
+invaded by Jews or Bulgars. In the most exquisitely inconsequent of the
+_Bab Ballads_, we are told concerning Pasha Bailey Ben:--
+
+
+ One morning knocked at half-past eight
+ A tall Red Indian at his gate.
+ In Turkey, as you 'r' p'raps aware,
+ Red Indians are extremely rare.
+
+
+But the converse need by no means be true. There is nothing in the
+nature of things to prevent an emigration of Turks increasing and
+multiplying on the plains where the Red Indians wandered; there is
+nothing to necessitate the Turks being extremely rare. The Red Indians,
+alas, are likely to be rarer. And as I much prefer Red Indians to Turks,
+not to mention Jews, I speak without prejudice; but the point here is
+that America, partly by original theory and partly by historical
+accident, does lie open to racial admixtures which most countries would
+think incongruous or comic. That is why it is only fair to read any
+American definitions or rules in a certain light, and relatively to a
+rather unique position. It is not fair to compare the position of those
+who may meet Turks in the back street with that of those who have never
+met Turks except in the _Bab Ballads_. It is not fair simply to compare
+America with England in its regulations about the Turk. In short, it is
+not fair to do what almost every Englishman probably does; to look at
+the American international examination paper, and laugh and be satisfied
+with saying, 'We don't have any of that nonsense in England.'
+
+We do not have any of that nonsense in England because we have never
+attempted to have any of that philosophy in England. And, above all,
+because we have the enormous advantage of feeling it natural to be
+national, because there is nothing else to be. England in these days is
+not well governed; England is not well educated; England suffers from
+wealth and poverty that are not well distributed. But England is
+English; _esto perpetua_. England is English as France is French or
+Ireland Irish; the great mass of men taking certain national traditions
+for granted. Now this gives us a totally different and a very much
+easier task. We have not got an inquisition, because we have not got a
+creed; but it is arguable that we do not need a creed, because we have
+got a character. In any of the old nations the national unity is
+preserved by the national type. Because we have a type we do not need to
+have a test.
+
+Take that innocent question, 'Are you an anarchist?' which is
+intrinsically quite as impudent as 'Are you an optimist?' or 'Are you a
+philanthropist?' I am not discussing here whether these things are
+right, but whether most of us are in a position to know them rightly.
+Now it is quite true that most Englishmen do not find it necessary to go
+about all day asking each other whether they are anarchists. It is quite
+true that the phrase occurs on no British forms that I have seen. But
+this is not only because most of the Englishmen are not anarchists. It
+is even more because even the anarchists are Englishmen. For instance,
+it would be easy to make fun of the American formula by noting that the
+cap would fit all sorts of bald academic heads. It might well be
+maintained that Herbert Spencer was an anarchist. It is practically
+certain that Auberon Herbert was an anarchist. But Herbert Spencer was
+an extraordinarily typical Englishman of the Nonconformist middle class.
+And Auberon Herbert was an extraordinarily typical English aristocrat of
+the old and genuine aristocracy. Every one knew in his heart that the
+squire would not throw a bomb at the Queen, and the Nonconformist would
+not throw a bomb at anybody. Every one knew that there was something
+subconscious in a man like Auberon Herbert, which would have come out
+only in throwing bombs at the enemies of England; as it did come out in
+his son and namesake, the generous and unforgotten, who fell flinging
+bombs from the sky far beyond the German line. Every one knows that
+normally, in the last resort, the English gentleman is patriotic. Every
+one knows that the English Nonconformist is national even when he denies
+that he is patriotic. Nothing is more notable indeed than the fact that
+nobody is more stamped with the mark of his own nation than the man who
+says that there ought to be no nations. Somebody called Cobden the
+International Man; but no man could be more English than Cobden.
+Everybody recognises Tolstoy as the iconoclast of all patriotism; but
+nobody could be more Russian than Tolstoy. In the old countries where
+there are these national types, the types may be allowed to hold any
+theories. Even if they hold certain theories, they are unlikely to do
+certain things. So the conscientious objector, in the English sense,
+may be and is one of the peculiar by-products of England. But the
+conscientious objector will probably have a conscientious objection to
+throwing bombs.
+
+Now I am very far from intending to imply that these American tests are
+good tests, or that there is no danger of tyranny becoming the
+temptation of America. I shall have something to say later on about that
+temptation or tendency. Nor do I say that they apply consistently this
+conception of a nation with the soul of a church, protected by religious
+and not racial selection. If they did apply that principle consistently,
+they would have to exclude pessimists and rich cynics who deny the
+democratic ideal; an excellent thing but a rather improbable one. What I
+say is that when we realise that this principle exists at all, we see
+the whole position in a totally different perspective. We say that the
+Americans are doing something heroic, or doing something insane, or
+doing it in an unworkable or unworthy fashion, instead of simply
+wondering what the devil they are doing.
+
+When we realise the democratic design of such a cosmopolitan
+commonwealth, and compare it with our insular reliance or instincts, we
+see at once why such a thing has to be not only democratic but dogmatic.
+We see why in some points it tends to be inquisitive or intolerant. Any
+one can see the practical point by merely transferring into private life
+a problem like that of the two academic anarchists, who might by a
+coincidence be called the two Herberts. Suppose a man said, 'Buffle, my
+old Oxford tutor, wants to meet you; I wish you'd ask him down for a day
+or two. He has the oddest opinions, but he's very stimulating.' It would
+not occur to us that the oddity of the Oxford don's opinions would lead
+him to blow up the house; because the Oxford don is an English type.
+Suppose somebody said, 'Do let me bring old Colonel Robinson down for
+the week-end; he's a bit of a crank but quite interesting.' We should
+not anticipate the colonel running amuck with a carving-knife and
+offering up human sacrifice in the garden; for these are not among the
+daily habits of an old English colonel; and because we know his habits,
+we do not care about his opinions. But suppose somebody offered to bring
+a person from the interior of Kamskatka to stay with us for a week or
+two, and added that his religion was a very extraordinary religion, we
+should feel a little more inquisitive about what kind of religion it
+was. If somebody wished to add a Hairy Ainu to the family party at
+Christmas, explaining that his point of view was so individual and
+interesting, we should want to know a little more about it and him. We
+should be tempted to draw up as fantastic an examination paper as that
+presented to the emigrant going to America. We should ask what a Hairy
+Ainu was, and how hairy he was, and above all what sort of Ainu he was.
+Would etiquette require us to ask him to bring his wife? And if we did
+ask him to bring his wife, how many wives would he bring? In short, as
+in the American formula, is he a polygamist? Merely as a point of
+housekeeping and accommodation the question is not irrelevant. Is the
+Hairy Ainu content with hair, or does he wear any clothes? If the police
+insist on his wearing clothes, will he recognise the authority of the
+police? In short, as in the American formula, is he an anarchist?
+
+Of course this generalisation about America, like other historical
+things, is subject to all sorts of cross divisions and exceptions, to
+be considered in their place. The negroes are a special problem, because
+of what white men in the past did to them. The Japanese are a special
+problem, because of what men fear that they in the future may do to
+white men. The Jews are a special problem, because of what they and the
+Gentiles, in the past, present, and future, seem to have the habit of
+doing to each other. But the point is not that nothing exists in America
+except this idea; it is that nothing like this idea exists anywhere
+except in America. This idea is not internationalism; on the contrary it
+is decidedly nationalism. The Americans are very patriotic, and wish to
+make their new citizens patriotic Americans. But it is the idea of
+making a new nation literally out of any old nation that comes along. In
+a word, what is unique is not America but what is called
+Americanisation. We understand nothing till we understand the amazing
+ambition to Americanise the Kamskatkan and the Hairy Ainu. We are not
+trying to Anglicise thousands of French cooks or Italian organ-grinders.
+France is not trying to Gallicise thousands of English trippers or
+German prisoners of war. America is the one place in the world where
+this process, healthy or unhealthy, possible or impossible, is going on.
+And the process, as I have pointed out, is _not_ internationalisation.
+It would be truer to say it is the nationalisation of the
+internationalised. It is making a home out of vagabonds and a nation out
+of exiles. This is what at once illuminates and softens the moral
+regulations which we may really think faddist or fanatical. They are
+abnormal; but in one sense this experiment of a home for the homeless is
+abnormal. In short, it has long been recognised that America was an
+asylum. It is only since Prohibition that it has looked a little like a
+lunatic asylum.
+
+It was before sailing for America, as I have said, that I stood with the
+official paper in my hand and these thoughts in my head. It was while I
+stood on English soil that I passed through the two stages of smiling
+and then sympathising; of realising that my momentary amusement, at
+being asked if I were not an Anarchist, was partly due to the fact that
+I was not an American. And in truth I think there are some things a man
+ought to know about America before he sees it. What we know of a country
+beforehand may not affect what we see that it is; but it will vitally
+affect what we appreciate it for being, because it will vitally affect
+what we expect it to be. I can honestly say that I had never expected
+America to be what nine-tenths of the newspaper critics invariably
+assume it to be. I never thought it was a sort of Anglo-Saxon colony,
+knowing that it was more and more thronged with crowds of very different
+colonists. During the war I felt that the very worst propaganda for the
+Allies was the propaganda for the Anglo-Saxons. I tried to point out
+that in one way America is nearer to Europe than England is. If she is
+not nearer to Bulgaria, she is nearer to Bulgars; if she is not nearer
+to Bohemia, she is nearer to Bohemians. In my New York hotel the head
+waiter in the dining-room was a Bohemian; the head waiter in the
+grill-room was a Bulgar. Americans have nationalities at the end of the
+street which for us are at the ends of the earth. I did my best to
+persuade my countrymen not to appeal to the American as if he were a
+rather dowdy Englishman, who had been rusticating in the provinces and
+had not heard the latest news about the town. I shall record later some
+of those arresting realities which the traveller does not expect; and
+which, in some cases I fear, he actually does not see because he does
+not expect. I shall try to do justice to the psychology of what Mr.
+Belloc has called 'Eye-Openers in Travel.' But there are some things
+about America that a man ought to see even with his eyes shut. One is
+that a state that came into existence solely through its repudiation and
+abhorrence of the British Crown is not likely to be a respectful copy of
+the British Constitution. Another is that the chief mark of the
+Declaration of Independence is something that is not only absent from
+the British Constitution, but something which all our constitutionalists
+have invariably thanked God, with the jolliest boasting and bragging,
+that they had kept out of the British Constitution. It is the thing
+called abstraction or academic logic. It is the thing which such jolly
+people call theory; and which those who can practise it call thought.
+And the theory or thought is the very last to which English people are
+accustomed, either by their social structure or their traditional
+teaching. It is the theory of equality. It is the pure classic
+conception that no man must aspire to be anything more than a citizen,
+and that no man should endure to be anything less. It is by no means
+especially intelligible to an Englishman, who tends at his best to the
+virtues of the gentleman and at his worst to the vices of the snob. The
+idealism of England, or if you will the romance of England, has not been
+primarily the romance of the citizen. But the idealism of America, we
+may safely say, still revolves entirely round the citizen and his
+romance. The realities are quite another matter, and we shall consider
+in its place the question of whether the ideal will be able to shape
+the realities or will merely be beaten shapeless by them. The ideal is
+besieged by inequalities of the most towering and insane description in
+the industrial and economic field. It may be devoured by modern
+capitalism, perhaps the worst inequality that ever existed among men. Of
+all that we shall speak later. But citizenship is still the American
+ideal; there is an army of actualities opposed to that ideal; but there
+is no ideal opposed to that ideal. American plutocracy has never got
+itself respected like English aristocracy. Citizenship is the American
+ideal; and it has never been the English ideal. But it is surely an
+ideal that may stir some imaginative generosity and respect in an
+Englishman, if he will condescend to be also a man. In this vision of
+moulding many peoples into the visible image of the citizen, he may see
+a spiritual adventure which he can admire from the outside, at least as
+much as he admires the valour of the Moslems and much more than he
+admires the virtues of the Middle Ages. He need not set himself to
+develop equality, but he need not set himself to misunderstand it. He
+may at least understand what Jefferson and Lincoln meant, and he may
+possibly find some assistance in this task by reading what they said. He
+may realise that equality is not some crude fairy tale about all men
+being equally tall or equally tricky; which we not only cannot believe
+but cannot believe in anybody believing. It is an absolute of morals by
+which all men have a value invariable and indestructible and a dignity
+as intangible as death. He may at least be a philosopher and see that
+equality is an idea; and not merely one of these soft-headed sceptics
+who, having risen by low tricks to high places, drink bad champagne in
+tawdry hotel lounges, and tell each other twenty times over, with
+unwearied iteration, that equality is an illusion.
+
+In truth it is inequality that is the illusion. The extreme
+disproportion between men, that we seem to see in life, is a thing of
+changing lights and lengthening shadows, a twilight full of fancies and
+distortions. We find a man famous and cannot live long enough to find
+him forgotten; we see a race dominant and cannot linger to see it decay.
+It is the experience of men that always returns to the equality of men;
+it is the average that ultimately justifies the average man. It is when
+men have seen and suffered much and come at the end of more elaborate
+experiments, that they see men as men under an equal light of death and
+daily laughter; and none the less mysterious for being many. Nor is it
+in vain that these Western democrats have sought the blazonry of their
+flag in that great multitude of immortal lights that endure behind the
+fires we see, and gathered them into the corner of Old Glory whose
+ground is like the glittering night. For veritably, in the spirit as
+well as in the symbol, suns and moons and meteors pass and fill our
+skies with a fleeting and almost theatrical conflagration; and wherever
+the old shadow stoops upon the earth, the stars return.
+
+
+
+
+_A Meditation in a New York Hotel_
+
+
+All this must begin with an apology and not an apologia. When I went
+wandering about the States disguised as a lecturer, I was well aware
+that I was not sufficiently well disguised to be a spy. I was even in
+the worst possible position to be a sight-seer. A lecturer to American
+audiences can hardly be in the holiday mood of a sight-seer. It is
+rather the audience that is sight-seeing; even if it is seeing a rather
+melancholy sight. Some say that people come to see the lecturer and not
+to hear him; in which case it seems rather a pity that he should disturb
+and distress their minds with a lecture. He might merely display himself
+on a stand or platform for a stipulated sum; or be exhibited like a
+monster in a menagerie. The circus elephant is not expected to make a
+speech. But it is equally true that the circus elephant is not allowed
+to write a book. His impressions of travel would be somewhat sketchy and
+perhaps a little over-specialised. In merely travelling from circus to
+circus he would, so to speak, move in rather narrow circles. Jumbo the
+great elephant (with whom I am hardly so ambitious as to compare
+myself), before he eventually went to the Barnum show, passed a
+considerable and I trust happy part of his life in Regent's Park. But if
+he had written a book on England, founded on his impressions of the Zoo,
+it might have been a little disproportionate and even misleading in its
+version of the flora and fauna of that country. He might imagine that
+lions and leopards were commoner than they are in our hedgerows and
+country lanes, or that the head and neck of a giraffe was as native to
+our landscapes as a village spire. And that is why I apologise in
+anticipation for a probable lack of proportion in this work. Like the
+elephant, I may have seen too much of a special enclosure where a
+special sort of lions are gathered together. I may exaggerate the
+territorial, as distinct from the vertical space occupied by the
+spiritual giraffe; for the giraffe may surely be regarded as an example
+of Uplift, and is even, in a manner of speaking, a high-brow. Above all,
+I shall probably make generalisations that are much too general; and are
+insufficient through being exaggerative. To this sort of doubt all my
+impressions are subject; and among them the negative generalisation with
+which I shall begin this rambling meditation on American hotels.
+
+In all my American wanderings I never saw such a thing as an inn. They
+may exist; but they do not arrest the traveller upon every road as they
+do in England and in Europe. The saloons no longer existed when I was
+there, owing to the recent reform which restricted intoxicants to the
+wealthier classes. But we feel that the saloons have been there; if one
+may so express it, their absence is still present. They remain in the
+structure of the street and the idiom of the language. But the saloons
+were not inns. If they had been inns, it would have been far harder even
+for the power of modern plutocracy to root them out. There will be a
+very different chase when the White Hart is hunted to the forests or
+when the Red Lion turns to bay. But people could not feel about the
+American saloon as they will feel about the English inns. They could not
+feel that the Prohibitionist, that vulgar chucker-out, was chucking
+Chaucer out of the Tabard and Shakespeare out of the Mermaid. In justice
+to the American Prohibitionists it must be realised that they were not
+doing quite such desecration; and that many of them felt the saloon a
+specially poisonous sort of place. They did feel that drinking-places
+were used only as drug-shops. So they have effected the great
+reconstruction, by which it will be necessary to use only drug-shops as
+drinking-places. But I am not dealing here with the problem of
+Prohibition except in so far as it is involved in the statement that the
+saloons were in no sense inns. Secondly, of course, there are the
+hotels. There are indeed. There are hotels toppling to the stars, hotels
+covering the acreage of villages, hotels in multitudinous number like a
+mob of Babylonian or Assyrian monuments; but the hotels also are not
+inns.
+
+Broadly speaking, there is only one hotel in America. The pattern of it,
+which is a very rational pattern, is repeated in cities as remote from
+each other as the capitals of European empires. You may find that hotel
+rising among the red blooms of the warm spring woods of Nebraska, or
+whitened with Canadian snows near the eternal noise of Niagara. And
+before touching on this solid and simple pattern itself, I may remark
+that the same system of symmetry runs through all the details of the
+interior. As one hotel is like another hotel, so one hotel floor is like
+another hotel floor. If the passage outside your bedroom door, or
+hallway as it is called, contains, let us say, a small table with a
+green vase and a stuffed flamingo, or some trifle of the sort, you may
+be perfectly certain that there is exactly the same table, vase, and
+flamingo on every one of the thirty-two landings of that towering
+habitation. This is where it differs most perhaps from the crooked
+landings and unexpected levels of the old English inns, even when they
+call themselves hotels. To me there was something weird, like a magic
+multiplication, in the exquisite sameness of these suites. It seemed to
+suggest the still atmosphere of some eerie psychological story. I once
+myself entertained the notion of a story, in which a man was to be
+prevented from entering his house (the scene of some crime or calamity)
+by people who painted and furnished the next house to look exactly like
+it; the assimilation going to the most fantastic lengths, such as
+altering the numbering of houses in the street. I came to America and
+found an hotel fitted and upholstered throughout for the enactment of my
+phantasmal fraud. I offer the skeleton of my story with all humility to
+some of the admirable lady writers of detective stories in America, to
+Miss Carolyn Wells, or Miss Mary Roberts Rhinehart, or Mrs. A. K. Green
+of the unforgotten Leavenworth Case. Surely it might be possible for the
+unsophisticated Nimrod K. Moose, of Yellow Dog Flat, to come to New York
+and be entangled somehow in this net of repetitions or recurrences.
+Surely something tells me that his beautiful daughter, the Rose of Red
+Murder Gulch, might seek for him in vain amid the apparently
+unmistakable surroundings of the thirty-second floor, while he was being
+quietly butchered by the floor-clerk on the thirty-third floor, an agent
+of the Green Claw (that formidable organisation); and all because the
+two floors looked exactly alike to the virginal Western eye. The
+original point of my own story was that the man to be entrapped walked
+into his own house after all, in spite of it being differently painted
+and numbered, simply because he was absent-minded and used to taking a
+certain number of mechanical steps. This would not work in the hotel;
+because a lift has no habits. It is typical of the real tameness of
+machinery, that even when we talk of a man turning mechanically we only
+talk metaphorically; for it is something that a mechanism cannot do. But
+I think there is only one real objection to my story of Mr. Moose in the
+New York hotel. And that is unfortunately a rather fatal one. It is that
+far away in the remote desolation of Yellow Dog, among those outlying
+and outlandish rocks that almost seem to rise beyond the sunset, there
+is undoubtedly an hotel of exactly the same sort, with all its floors
+exactly the same.
+
+Anyhow the general plan of the American hotel is commonly the same, and,
+as I have said, it is a very sound one so far as it goes. When I first
+went into one of the big New York hotels, the first impression was
+certainly its bigness. It was called the Biltmore; and I wondered how
+many national humorists had made the obvious comment of wishing they had
+built less. But it was not merely the Babylonian size and scale of such
+things, it was the way in which they are used. They are used almost as
+public streets, or rather as public squares. My first impression was
+that I was in some sort of high street or market-place during a carnival
+or a revolution. True, the people looked rather rich for a revolution
+and rather grave for a carnival; but they were congested in great crowds
+that moved slowly like people passing through an overcrowded railway
+station. Even in the dizzy heights of such a sky-scraper there could not
+possibly be room for all those people to sleep in the hotel, or even to
+dine in it. And, as a matter of fact, they did nothing whatever except
+drift into it and drift out again. Most of them had no more to do with
+the hotel than I have with Buckingham Palace. I have never been in
+Buckingham Palace, and I have very seldom, thank God, been in the big
+hotels of this type that exist in London or Paris. But I cannot believe
+that mobs are perpetually pouring through the Hotel Cecil or the Savoy
+in this fashion, calmly coming in at one door and going out of the
+other. But this fact is part of the fundamental structure of the
+American hotel; it is built upon a compromise that makes it possible.
+The whole of the lower floor is thrown open to the public streets and
+treated as a public square. But above it and all round it runs another
+floor in the form of a sort of deep gallery, furnished more luxuriously
+and looking down on the moving mobs beneath. No one is allowed on this
+floor except the guests or clients of the hotel. As I have been one of
+them myself, I trust it is not unsympathetic to compare them to active
+anthropoids who can climb trees, and so look down in safety on the herds
+or packs of wilder animals wandering and prowling below. Of course there
+are modifications of this architectural plan, but they are generally
+approximations to it; it is the plan that seems to suit the social life
+of the American cities. There is generally something like a ground floor
+that is more public, a half-floor or gallery above that is more private,
+and above that the bulk of the block of bedrooms, the huge hive with its
+innumerable and identical cells.
+
+The ladder of ascent in this tower is of course the lift, or, as it is
+called, the elevator. With all that we hear of American hustle and
+hurry it is rather strange that Americans seem to like more than we do
+to linger upon long words. And indeed there is an element of delay in
+their diction and spirit, very little understood, which I may discuss
+elsewhere. Anyhow they say elevator when we say lift, just as they say
+automobile when we say motor and stenographer when we say typist, or
+sometimes (by a slight confusion) typewriter. Which reminds me of
+another story that never existed, about a man who was accused of having
+murdered and dismembered his secretary when he had only taken his typing
+machine to pieces; but we must not dwell on these digressions. The
+Americans may have another reason for giving long and ceremonious titles
+to the lift. When first I came among them I had a suspicion that they
+possessed and practised a new and secret religion, which was the cult of
+the elevator. I fancied they worshipped the lift, or at any rate
+worshipped in the lift. The details or data of this suspicion it were
+now vain to collect, as I have regretfully abandoned it, except in so
+far as they illustrate the social principles underlying the structural
+plan of the building. Now an American gentleman invariably takes off his
+hat in the lift. He does not take off his hat in the hotel, even if it
+is crowded with ladies. But he always so salutes a lady in the elevator;
+and this marks the difference of atmosphere. The lift is a room, but the
+hotel is a street. But during my first delusion, of course, I assumed
+that he uncovered in this tiny temple merely because he was in church.
+There is something about the very word elevator that expresses a great
+deal of his vague but idealistic religion. Perhaps that flying chapel
+will eventually be ritualistically decorated like a chapel; possibly
+with a symbolic scheme of wings. Perhaps a brief religious service will
+be held in the elevator as it ascends; in a few well-chosen words
+touching the Utmost for the Highest. Possibly he would consent even to
+call the elevator a lift, if he could call it an uplift. There would be
+no difficulty, except what I cannot but regard as the chief moral
+problem of all optimistic modernism. I mean the difficulty of imagining
+a lift which is free to go up, if it is not also free to go down.
+
+I think I know my American friends and acquaintances too well to
+apologise for any levity in these illustrations. Americans make fun of
+their own institutions; and their own journalism is full of such
+fanciful conjectures. The tall building is itself artistically akin to
+the tall story. The very word sky-scraper is an admirable example of an
+American lie. But I can testify quite as eagerly to the solid and
+sensible advantages of the symmetrical hotel. It is not only a pattern
+of vases and stuffed flamingoes; it is also an equally accurate pattern
+of cupboards and baths. It is a dignified and humane custom to have a
+bathroom attached to every bedroom; and my impulse to sing the praises
+of it brought me once at least into a rather quaint complication. I
+think it was in the city of Dayton; anyhow I remember there was a
+Laundry Convention going on in the same hotel, in a room very
+patriotically and properly festooned with the stars and stripes, and
+doubtless full of promise for the future of laundering. I was
+interviewed on the roof, within earshot of this debate, and may have
+been the victim of some association or confusion; anyhow, after
+answering the usual questions about Labour, the League of Nations, the
+length of ladies' dresses, and other great matters, I took refuge in a
+rhapsody of warm and well-deserved praise of American bathrooms. The
+editor, I understand, running a gloomy eye down the column of his
+contributor's 'story,' and seeing nothing but metaphysical terms such as
+justice, freedom, the abstract disapproval of sweating, swindling, and
+the like, paused at last upon the ablutionary allusion, and his eye
+brightened. 'That's the only copy in the whole thing,' he said, 'A
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' So these words appeared in enormous letters
+above my portrait in the paper. It will be noted that, like many things
+that practical men make a great point of, they miss the point. What I
+had commended as new and national was a bathroom in every bedroom. Even
+feudal and moss-grown England is not entirely ignorant of an occasional
+bath-tub in the home. But what gave me great joy was what followed. I
+discovered with delight that many people, glancing rapidly at my
+portrait with its prodigious legend, imagined that it was a commercial
+advertisement, and that I was a very self-advertising commercial
+traveller. When I walked about the streets, I was supposed to be
+travelling in bath-tubs. Consider the caption of the portrait, and you
+will see how similar it is to the true commercial slogan: 'We offer a
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' And this charming error was doubtless clinched
+by the fact that I had been found haunting the outer courts of the
+temple of the ancient Guild of Lavenders. I never knew how many shared
+the impression; I regret to say that I only traced it with certainty in
+two individuals. But I understand that it included the idea that I had
+come to the town to attend the Laundry Convention, and had made an
+eloquent speech to that senate, no doubt exhibiting my tubs.
+
+Such was the penalty of too passionate and unrestrained an admiration
+for American bathrooms; yet the connection of ideas, however
+inconsequent, does cover the part of social practice for which these
+American institutions can really be praised. About everything like
+laundry or hot and cold water there is not only organisation, but what
+does not always or perhaps often go with it, efficiency. Americans are
+particular about these things of dress and decorum; and it is a virtue
+which I very seriously recognise, though I find it very hard to emulate.
+But with them it is a virtue; it is not a mere convention, still less a
+mere fashion. It is really related to human dignity rather than to
+social superiority. The really glorious thing about the American is that
+he does not dress like a gentleman; he dresses like a citizen or a
+civilised man. His Puritanic particularity on certain points is really
+detachable from any definite social ambitions; these things are not a
+part of getting into society but merely of keeping out of savagery.
+Those millions and millions of middling people, that huge middle class
+especially of the Middle West, are not near enough to any aristocracy
+even to be sham aristocrats, or to be real snobs. But their standards
+are secure; and though I do not really travel in a bath-tub, or believe
+in the bath-tub philosophy and religion, I will not on this matter
+recoil misanthropically from them: I prefer the tub of Dayton to the tub
+of Diogenes. On these points there is really something a million times
+better than efficiency, and that is something like equality.
+
+In short, the American hotel is not America; but it is American. In some
+respects it is as American as the English inn is English. And it is
+symbolic of that society in this among other things: that it does tend
+too much to uniformity; but that that very uniformity disguises not a
+little natural dignity. The old Romans boasted that their republic was a
+nation of kings. If we really walked abroad in such a kingdom, we might
+very well grow tired of the sight of a crowd of kings, of every man with
+a gold crown on his head or an ivory sceptre in his hand. But it is
+arguable that we ought not to grow tired of the repetition of crowns and
+sceptres, any more than of the repetition of flowers and stars. The
+whole imaginative effort of Walt Whitman was really an effort to absorb
+and animate these multitudinous modern repetitions; and Walt Whitman
+would be quite capable of including in his lyric litany of optimism a
+list of the nine hundred and ninety-nine identical bathrooms. I do not
+sneer at the generous effort of the giant; though I think, when all is
+said, that it is a criticism of modern machinery that the effort should
+be gigantic as well as generous.
+
+While there is so much repetition there is little repose. It is the
+pattern of a kaleidoscope rather than a wall-paper; a pattern of figures
+running and even leaping like the figures in a zoetrope. But even in the
+groups where there was no hustle there was often something of
+homelessness. I do not mean merely that they were not dining at home;
+but rather that they were not at home even when dining, and dining at
+their favourite hotel. They would frequently start up and dart from the
+room at a summons from the telephone. It may have been fanciful, but I
+could not help feeling a breath of home, as from a flap or flutter of
+St. George's Cross, when I first sat down in a Canadian hostelry, and
+read the announcement that no such telephonic or other summonses were
+allowed in the dining-room. It may have been a coincidence, and there
+may be American hotels with this merciful proviso and Canadian hotels
+without it; but the thing was symbolic even if it was not evidential. I
+felt as if I stood indeed upon English soil, in a place where people
+liked to have their meals in peace.
+
+The process of the summons is called 'paging,' and consists of sending a
+little boy with a large voice through all the halls and corridors of the
+building, making them resound with a name. The custom is common, of
+course, in clubs and hotels even in England; but in England it is a mere
+whisper compared with the wail with which the American page repeats the
+formula of 'Calling Mr. So and So.' I remember a particularly crowded
+_parterre_ in the somewhat smoky and oppressive atmosphere of Pittsburg,
+through which wandered a youth with a voice the like of which I have
+never heard in the land of the living, a voice like the cry of a lost
+spirit, saying again and again for ever, 'Carling Mr. Anderson.' One
+felt that he never would find Mr. Anderson. Perhaps there never had been
+any Mr. Anderson to be found. Perhaps he and every one else wandered in
+an abyss of bottomless scepticism; and he was but the victim of one out
+of numberless nightmares of eternity, as he wandered a shadow with
+shadows and wailed by impassable streams. This is not exactly my
+philosophy, but I feel sure it was his. And it is a mood that may
+frequently visit the mind in the centres of highly active and successful
+industrial civilisation.
+
+Such are the first idle impressions of the great American hotel, gained
+by sitting for the first time in its gallery and gazing on its drifting
+crowds with thoughts equally drifting. The first impression is of
+something enormous and rather unnatural, an impression that is gradually
+tempered by experience of the kindliness and even the tameness of so
+much of that social order. But I should not be recording the sensations
+with sincerity, if I did not touch in passing the note of something
+unearthly about that vast system to an insular traveller who sees it for
+the first time. It is as if he were wandering in another world among the
+fixed stars; or worse still, in an ideal Utopia of the future.
+
+Yet I am not certain; and perhaps the best of all news is that nothing
+is really new. I sometimes have a fancy that many of these new things in
+new countries are but the resurrections of old things which have been
+wickedly killed or stupidly stunted in old countries. I have looked over
+the sea of little tables in some light and airy open-air café; and my
+thoughts have gone back to the plain wooden bench and wooden table that
+stands solitary and weather-stained outside so many neglected English
+inns. We talk of experimenting in the French café, as of some fresh and
+almost impudent innovation. But our fathers had the French café, in the
+sense of the free-and-easy table in the sun and air. The only difference
+was that French democracy was allowed to develop its café, or multiply
+its tables, while English plutocracy prevented any such popular growth.
+Perhaps there are other examples of old types and patterns, lost in the
+old oligarchy and saved in the new democracies. I am haunted with a hint
+that the new structures are not so very new; and that they remind me of
+something very old. As I look from the balcony floor the crowds seem to
+float away and the colours to soften and grow pale, and I know I am in
+one of the simplest and most ancestral of human habitations. I am
+looking down from the old wooden gallery upon the courtyard of an inn.
+This new architectural model, which I have described, is after all one
+of the oldest European models, now neglected in Europe and especially in
+England. It was the theatre in which were enacted innumerable picaresque
+comedies and romantic plays, with figures ranging from Sancho Panza to
+Sam Weller. It served as the apparatus, like some gigantic toy set up in
+bricks and timber, for the ancient and perhaps eternal game of tennis.
+The very terms of the original game were taken from the inn courtyard,
+and the players scored accordingly as they hit the buttery-hatch or the
+roof. Singular speculations hover in my mind as the scene darkens and
+the quadrangle below begins to empty in the last hours of night. Some
+day perhaps this huge structure will be found standing in a solitude
+like a skeleton; and it will be the skeleton of the Spotted Dog or the
+Blue Boar. It will wither and decay until it is worthy at last to be a
+tavern. I do not know whether men will play tennis on its ground floor,
+with various scores and prizes for hitting the electric fan, or the
+lift, or the head waiter. Perhaps the very words will only remain as
+part of some such rustic game. Perhaps the electric fan will no longer
+be electric and the elevator will no longer elevate, and the waiter will
+only wait to be hit. But at least it is only by the decay of modern
+plutocracy, which seems already to have begun, that the secret of the
+structure even of this plutocratic palace can stand revealed. And after
+long years, when its lights are extinguished and only the long shadows
+inhabit its halls and vestibules, there may come a new noise like
+thunder; of D'Artagnan knocking at the door.
+
+
+
+
+_A Meditation in Broadway_
+
+
+When I had looked at the lights of Broadway by night, I made to my
+American friends an innocent remark that seemed for some reason to amuse
+them. I had looked, not without joy, at that long kaleidoscope of
+coloured lights arranged in large letters and sprawling trade-marks,
+advertising everything, from pork to pianos, through the agency of the
+two most vivid and most mystical of the gifts of God; colour and fire. I
+said to them, in my simplicity, 'What a glorious garden of wonders this
+would be, to any one who was lucky enough to be unable to read.'
+
+Here it is but a text for a further suggestion. But let us suppose that
+there does walk down this flaming avenue a peasant, of the sort called
+scornfully an illiterate peasant; by those who think that insisting on
+people reading and writing is the best way to keep out the spies who
+read in all languages and the forgers who write in all hands. On this
+principle indeed, a peasant merely acquainted with things of little
+practical use to mankind, such as ploughing, cutting wood, or growing
+vegetables, would very probably be excluded; and it is not for us to
+criticise from the outside the philosophy of those who would keep out
+the farmer and let in the forger. But let us suppose, if only for the
+sake of argument, that the peasant is walking under the artificial suns
+and stars of this tremendous thoroughfare; that he has escaped to the
+land of liberty upon some general rumour and romance of the story of
+its liberation, but without being yet able to understand the arbitrary
+signs of its alphabet. The soul of such a man would surely soar higher
+than the sky-scrapers, and embrace a brotherhood broader than Broadway.
+Realising that he had arrived on an evening of exceptional festivity,
+worthy to be blazoned with all this burning heraldry, he would please
+himself by guessing what great proclamation or principle of the Republic
+hung in the sky like a constellation or rippled across the street like a
+comet. He would be shrewd enough to guess that the three festoons
+fringed with fiery words of somewhat similar pattern stood for
+'Government of the People, For the People, By the People'; for it must
+obviously be that, unless it were 'Liberty, Equality, Fraternity.' His
+shrewdness would perhaps be a little shaken if he knew that the triad
+stood for 'Tang Tonic To-day; Tang Tonic To-morrow; Tang Tonic All the
+Time.' He will soon identify a restless ribbon of red lettering, red hot
+and rebellious, as the saying, 'Give me liberty or give me death.' He
+will fail to identify it as the equally famous saying, 'Skyoline Has
+Gout Beaten to a Frazzle.' Therefore it was that I desired the peasant
+to walk down that grove of fiery trees, under all that golden foliage,
+and fruits like monstrous jewels, as innocent as Adam before the Fall.
+He would see sights almost as fine as the flaming sword or the purple
+and peacock plumage of the seraphim; so long as he did not go near the
+Tree of Knowledge.
+
+In other words, if once he went to school it would be all up; and indeed
+I fear in any case he would soon discover his error. If he stood wildly
+waving his hat for liberty in the middle of the road as Chunk Chutney
+picked itself out in ruby stars upon the sky, he would impede the
+excellent but extremely rigid traffic system of New York. If he fell on
+his knees before a sapphire splendour, and began saying an Ave Maria
+under a mistaken association, he would be conducted kindly but firmly by
+an Irish policeman to a more authentic shrine. But though the foreign
+simplicity might not long survive in New York, it is quite a mistake to
+suppose that such foreign simplicity cannot enter New York. He may be
+excluded for being illiterate, but he cannot be excluded for being
+ignorant, nor for being innocent. Least of all can he be excluded for
+being wiser in his innocence than the world in its knowledge. There is
+here indeed more than one distinction to be made. New York is a
+cosmopolitan city; but it is not a city of cosmopolitans. Most of the
+masses in New York have a nation, whether or no it be the nation to
+which New York belongs. Those who are Americanised are American, and
+very patriotically American. Those who are not thus nationalised are not
+in the least internationalised. They simply continue to be themselves;
+the Irish are Irish; the Jews are Jewish; and all sorts of other tribes
+carry on the traditions of remote European valleys almost untouched. In
+short, there is a sort of slender bridge between their old country and
+their new, which they either cross or do not cross, but which they
+seldom simply occupy. They are exiles or they are citizens; there is no
+moment when they are cosmopolitans. But very often the exiles bring with
+them not only rooted traditions, but rooted truths.
+
+Indeed it is to a great extent the thought of these strange souls in
+crude American garb that gives a meaning to the masquerade of New York.
+In the hotel where I stayed the head waiter in one room was a Bohemian;
+and I am glad to say that he called himself a Bohemian. I have already
+protested sufficiently, before American audiences, against the pedantry
+of perpetually talking about Czecho-Slovakia. I suggested to my American
+friends that the abandonment of the word Bohemian in its historical
+sense might well extend to its literary and figurative sense. We might
+be expected to say, 'I'm afraid Henry has got into very Czecho-Slovakian
+habits lately,' or 'Don't bother to dress; it's quite a Czecho-Slovakian
+affair.' Anyhow my Bohemian would have nothing to do with such nonsense;
+he called himself a son of Bohemia, and spoke as such in his criticisms
+of America, which were both favourable and unfavourable. He was a squat
+man, with a sturdy figure and a steady smile; and his eyes were like
+dark pools in the depth of a darker forest, but I do not think he had
+ever been deceived by the lights of Broadway.
+
+But I found something like my real innocent abroad, my real peasant
+among the sky-signs, in another part of the same establishment. He was a
+much leaner man, equally dark, with a hook nose, hungry face, and fierce
+black moustaches. He also was a waiter, and was in the costume of a
+waiter, which is a smarter edition of the costume of a lecturer. As he
+was serving me with clam chowder or some such thing, I fell into speech
+with him and he told me he was a Bulgar. I said something like, 'I'm
+afraid I don't know as much as I ought to about Bulgaria. I suppose most
+of your people are agricultural, aren't they?' He did not stir an inch
+from his regular attitude, but he slightly lowered his low voice and
+said, 'Yes. From the earth we come and to the earth we return; when
+people get away from that they are lost.'
+
+To hear such a thing said by the waiter was alone an epoch in the life
+of an unfortunate writer of fantastic novels. To see him clear away the
+clam chowder like an automaton, and bring me more iced water like an
+automaton or like nothing on earth except an American waiter (for piling
+up ice is the cold passion of their lives), and all this after having
+uttered something so dark and deep, so starkly incongruous and so
+startlingly true, was an indescribable thing, but very like the picture
+of the peasant admiring Broadway. So he passed, with his artificial
+clothes and manners, lit up with all the ghastly artificial light of the
+hotel, and all the ghastly artificial life of the city; and his heart
+was like his own remote and rocky valley, where those unchanging words
+were carved as on a rock.
+
+I do not profess to discuss here at all adequately the question this
+raises about the Americanisation of the Bulgar. It has many aspects, of
+some of which most Englishmen and even some Americans are rather
+unconscious. For one thing, a man with so rugged a loyalty to land could
+not be Americanised in New York; but it is not so certain that he could
+not be Americanised in America. We might almost say that a peasantry is
+hidden in the heart of America. So far as our impressions go, it is a
+secret. It is rather an open secret; covering only some thousand square
+miles of open prairie. But for most of our countrymen it is something
+invisible, unimagined, and unvisited; the simple truth that where all
+those acres are there is agriculture, and where all that agriculture is
+there is considerable tendency towards distributive or decently
+equalised property, as in a peasantry. On the other hand, there are
+those who say that the Bulgar will never be Americanised, that he only
+comes to be a waiter in America that he may afford to return to be a
+peasant in Bulgaria. I cannot decide this issue, and indeed I did not
+introduce it to this end. I was led to it by a certain line of
+reflection that runs along the Great White Way, and I will continue to
+follow it. The criticism, if we could put it rightly, not only covers
+more than New York but more than the whole New World. Any argument
+against it is quite as valid against the largest and richest cities of
+the Old World, against London or Liverpool or Frankfort or Belfast. But
+it is in New York that we see the argument most clearly, because we see
+the thing thus towering into its own turrets and breaking into its own
+fireworks.
+
+I disagree with the aesthetic condemnation of the modern city with its
+sky-scrapers and sky-signs. I mean that which laments the loss of beauty
+and its sacrifice to utility. It seems to me the very reverse of the
+truth. Years ago, when people used to say the Salvation Army doubtless
+had good intentions, but we must all deplore its methods, I pointed out
+that the very contrary is the case. Its method, the method of drums and
+democratic appeal, is that of the Franciscans or any other march of the
+Church Militant. It was precisely its aims that were dubious, with their
+dissenting morality and despotic finance. It is somewhat the same with
+things like the sky-signs in Broadway. The aesthete must not ask me to
+mingle my tears with his, because these things are merely useful and
+ugly. For I am not specially inclined to think them ugly; but I am
+strongly inclined to think them useless. As a matter of art for art's
+sake, they seem to me rather artistic. As a form of practical social
+work they seem to me stark stupid waste. If Mr. Bilge is rich enough to
+build a tower four hundred feet high and give it a crown of golden
+crescents and crimson stars, in order to draw attention to his
+manufacture of the Paradise Tooth Paste or The Seventh Heaven Cigar, I
+do not feel the least disposition to thank him for any serious form of
+social service. I have never tried the Seventh Heaven Cigar; indeed a
+premonition moves me towards the belief that I shall go down to the dust
+without trying it. I have every reason to doubt whether it does any
+particular good to those who smoke it, or any good to anybody except
+those who sell it. In short Mr. Bilge's usefulness consists in being
+useful to Mr. Bilge, and all the rest is illusion and sentimentalism.
+But because I know that Bilge is only Bilge, shall I stoop to the
+profanity of saying that fire is only fire? Shall I blaspheme crimson
+stars any more than crimson sunsets, or deny that those moons are golden
+any more than that this grass is green? If a child saw these coloured
+lights, he would dance with as much delight as at any other coloured
+toys; and it is the duty of every poet, and even of every critic, to
+dance in respectful imitation of the child. Indeed I am in a mood of so
+much sympathy with the fairy lights of this pantomime city, that I
+should be almost sorry to see social sanity and a sense of proportion
+return to extinguish them. I fear the day is breaking, and the broad
+daylight of tradition and ancient truth is coming to end all this
+delightful nightmare of New York at night. Peasants and priests and all
+sorts of practical and sensible people are coming back into power, and
+their stern realism may wither all these beautiful, unsubstantial,
+useless things. They will not believe in the Seventh Heaven Cigar, even
+when they see it shining as with stars in the seventh heaven. They will
+not be affected by advertisements, any more than the priests and
+peasants of the Middle Ages would have been affected by advertisements.
+Only a very soft-headed, sentimental, and rather servile generation of
+men could possibly be affected by advertisements at all. People who are
+a little more hard-headed, humorous, and intellectually independent, see
+the rather simple joke; and are not impressed by this or any other form
+of self-praise. Almost any other men in almost any other age would have
+seen the joke. If you had said to a man in the Stone Age, 'Ugg says Ugg
+makes the best stone hatchets,' he would have perceived a lack of
+detachment and disinterestedness about the testimonial. If you had said
+to a medieval peasant, 'Robert the Bowyer proclaims, with three blasts
+of a horn, that he makes good bows,' the peasant would have said, 'Well,
+of course he does,' and thought about something more important. It is
+only among people whose minds have been weakened by a sort of mesmerism
+that so transparent a trick as that of advertisement could ever have
+been tried at all. And if ever we have again, as for other reasons I
+cannot but hope we shall, a more democratic distribution of property and
+a more agricultural basis of national life, it would seem at first sight
+only too likely that all this beautiful superstition will perish, and
+the fairyland of Broadway with all its varied rainbows fade away. For
+such people the Seventh Heaven Cigar, like the nineteenth-century city,
+will have ended in smoke. And even the smoke of it will have vanished.
+
+But the next stage of reflection brings us back to the peasant looking
+at the lights of Broadway. It is not true to say in the strict sense
+that the peasant has never seen such things before. The truth is that he
+has seen them on a much smaller scale, but for a much larger purpose.
+Peasants also have their ritual and ornament, but it is to adorn more
+real things. Apart from our first fancy about the peasant who could not
+read, there is no doubt about what would be apparent to a peasant who
+could read, and who could understand. For him also fire is sacred, for
+him also colour is symbolic. But where he sets up a candle to light the
+little shrine of St. Joseph, he finds it takes twelve hundred candles to
+light the Seventh Heaven Cigar. He is used to the colours in church
+windows showing red for martyrs or blue for madonnas; but here he can
+only conclude that all the colours of the rainbow belong to Mr. Bilge.
+Now upon the aesthetic side he might well be impressed; but it is
+exactly on the social and even scientific side that he has a right to
+criticise. If he were a Chinese peasant, for instance, and came from a
+land of fireworks, he would naturally suppose that he had happened to
+arrive at a great firework display in celebration of something; perhaps
+the Sacred Emperor's birthday, or rather birthnight. It would gradually
+dawn on the Chinese philosopher that the Emperor could hardly be born
+every night. And when he learnt the truth the philosopher, if he was a
+philosopher, would be a little disappointed ... possibly a little
+disdainful.
+
+Compare, for instance, these everlasting fireworks with the damp squibs
+and dying bonfires of Guy Fawkes Day. That quaint and even queer
+national festival has been fading for some time out of English life.
+Still, it was a national festival, in the double sense that it
+represented some sort of public spirit pursued by some sort of popular
+impulse. People spent money on the display of fireworks; they did not
+get money by it. And the people who spent money were often those who had
+very little money to spend. It had something of the glorious and
+fanatical character of making the poor poorer. It did not, like the
+advertisements, have only the mean and materialistic character of making
+the rich richer. In short, it came from the people and it appealed to
+the nation. The historical and religious cause in which it originated is
+not mine; and I think it has perished partly through being tied to a
+historical theory for which there is no future. I think this is
+illustrated in the very fact that the ceremonial is merely negative and
+destructive. Negation and destruction are very noble things as far as
+they go, and when they go in the right direction; and the popular
+expression of them has always something hearty and human about it. I
+shall not therefore bring any fine or fastidious criticism, whether
+literary or musical, to bear upon the little boys who drag about a
+bolster and a paper mask, calling out
+
+
+ Guy Fawkes Guy
+ Hit him in the eye.
+
+
+But I admit it is a disadvantage that they have not a saint or hero to
+crown in effigy as well as a traitor to burn in effigy. I admit that
+popular Protestantism has become too purely negative for people to
+wreathe in flowers the statue of Mr. Kensit or even of Dr. Clifford. I
+do not disguise my preference for popular Catholicism; which still has
+statues that can be wreathed in flowers. I wish our national feast of
+fireworks revolved round something positive and popular. I wish the
+beauty of a Catherine Wheel were displayed to the glory of St.
+Catherine. I should not especially complain if Roman candles were really
+Roman candles. But this negative character does not destroy the national
+character; which began at least in disinterested faith and has ended at
+least in disinterested fun. There is nothing disinterested at all about
+the new commercial fireworks. There is nothing so dignified as a dingy
+guy among the lights of Broadway. In that thoroughfare, indeed, the very
+word guy has another and milder significance. An American friend
+congratulated me on the impression I produced on a lady interviewer,
+observing, 'She says you're a regular guy.' This puzzled me a little at
+the time. 'Her description is no doubt correct,' I said, 'but I confess
+that it would never have struck me as specially complimentary.' But it
+appears that it is one of the most graceful of compliments, in the
+original American. A guy in America is a colourless term for a human
+being. All men are guys, being endowed by their Creator with certain ...
+but I am misled by another association. And a regular guy means, I
+presume, a reliable or respectable guy. The point here, however, is that
+the guy in the grotesque English sense does represent the dilapidated
+remnant of a real human tradition of symbolising real historic ideals by
+the sacramental mystery of fire. It is a great fall from the lowest of
+these lowly bonfires to the highest of the modern sky-signs. The new
+illumination does not stand for any national ideal at all; and what is
+yet more to the point, it does not come from any popular enthusiasm at
+all. That is where it differs from the narrowest national Protestantism
+of the English institution. Mobs have risen in support of No Popery; no
+mobs are likely to rise in defence of the New Puffery. Many a poor crazy
+Orangeman has died saying, 'To Hell with the Pope'; it is doubtful
+whether any man will ever, with his last breath, frame the ecstatic
+words, 'Try Hugby's Chewing Gum.' These modern and mercantile legends
+are imposed upon us by a mercantile minority, and we are merely passive
+to the suggestion. The hypnotist of high finance or big business merely
+writes his commands in heaven with a finger of fire. All men really are
+guys, in the sense of dummies. We are only the victims of his
+pyrotechnic violence; and it is he who hits us in the eye.
+
+This is the real case against that modern society that is symbolised by
+such art and architecture. It is not that it is toppling, but that it is
+top-heavy. It is not that it is vulgar, but rather that it is not
+popular. In other words, the democratic ideal of countries like America,
+while it is still generally sincere and sometimes intense, is at issue
+with another tendency, an industrial progress which is of all things on
+earth the most undemocratic. America is not alone in possessing the
+industrialism, but she is alone in emphasising the ideal that strives
+with industrialism. Industrial capitalism and ideal democracy are
+everywhere in controversy; but perhaps only here are they in conflict.
+France has a democratic ideal; but France is not industrial. England and
+Germany are industrial; but England and Germany are not really
+democratic. Of course when I speak here of industrialism I speak of
+great industrial areas; there is, as will be noted later, another side
+to all these countries; there is in America itself not only a great deal
+of agricultural society, but a great deal of agricultural equality;
+just as there are still peasants in Germany and may some day again be
+peasants in England. But the point is that the ideal and its enemy the
+reality are here crushed very close to each other in the high, narrow
+city; and that the sky-scraper is truly named because its top, towering
+in such insolence, is scraping the stars off the American sky, the very
+heaven of the American spirit.
+
+That seems to me the main outline of the whole problem. In the first
+chapter of this book, I have emphasised the fact that equality is still
+the ideal though no longer the reality of America. I should like to
+conclude this one by emphasising the fact that the reality of modern
+capitalism is menacing that ideal with terrors and even splendours that
+might well stagger the wavering and impressionable modern spirit. Upon
+the issue of that struggle depends the question of whether this new
+great civilisation continues to exist, and even whether any one cares if
+it exists or not. I have already used the parable of the American flag,
+and the stars that stand for a multitudinous equality; I might here take
+the opposite symbol of these artificial and terrestrial stars flaming on
+the forehead of the commercial city; and note the peril of the last
+illusion, which is that the artificial stars may seem to fill the
+heavens, and the real stars to have faded from sight. But I am content
+for the moment to reaffirm the merely imaginative pleasure of those
+dizzy turrets and dancing fires. If those nightmare buildings were
+really all built for nothing, how noble they would be! The fact that
+they were really built for something need not unduly depress us for a
+moment, or drag down our soaring fancies. There is something about these
+vertical lines that suggests a sort of rush upwards, as of great
+cataracts topsy-turvy. I have spoken of fireworks, but here I should
+rather speak of rockets. There is only something underneath the mind
+murmuring that nothing remains at last of a flaming rocket except a
+falling stick. I have spoken of Babylonian perspectives, and of words
+written with a fiery finger, like that huge unhuman finger that wrote on
+Belshazzar's wall.... But what did it write on Belshazzar's wall?... I
+am content once more to end on a note of doubt and a rather dark
+sympathy with those many-coloured solar systems turning so dizzily, far
+up in the divine vacuum of the night.
+
+'From the earth we come and to the earth we return; when people get away
+from that they are lost.'
+
+
+
+
+_Irish and other Interviewers_
+
+
+It is often asked what should be the first thing that a man sees when he
+lands in a foreign country; but I think it should be the vision of his
+own country. At least when I came into New York Harbour, a sort of grey
+and green cloud came between me and the towers with multitudinous
+windows, white in the winter sunlight; and I saw an old brown house
+standing back among the beech-trees at home, the house of only one among
+many friends and neighbours, but one somehow so sunken in the very heart
+of England as to be unconscious of her imperial or international
+position, and out of the sound of her perilous seas. But what made most
+clear the vision that revisited me was something else. Before we touched
+land the men of my own guild, the journalists and reporters, had already
+boarded the ship like pirates. And one of them spoke to me in an accent
+that I knew; and thanked me for all I had done for Ireland. And it was
+at that moment that I knew most vividly that what I wanted was to do
+something for England.
+
+Then, as it chanced, I looked across at the statue of Liberty, and saw
+that the great bronze was gleaming green in the morning light. I had
+made all the obvious jokes about the statue of Liberty. I found it had a
+soothing effect on earnest Prohibitionists on the boat to urge, as a
+point of dignity and delicacy, that it ought to be given back to the
+French, a vicious race abandoned to the culture of the vine. I proposed
+that the last liquors on board should be poured out in a pagan libation
+before it. And then I suddenly remembered that this Liberty was still in
+some sense enlightening the world, or one part of the world; was a lamp
+for one sort of wanderer, a star of one sort of seafarer. To one
+persecuted people at least this land had really been an asylum; even if
+recent legislation (as I have said) had made them think it a lunatic
+asylum. They had made it so much their home that the very colour of the
+country seemed to change with the infusion; as the bronze of the great
+statue took on a semblance of the wearing of the green.
+
+It is a commonplace that the Englishman has been stupid in his relations
+with the Irish; but he has been far more stupid in his relations with
+the Americans on the subject of the Irish. His propaganda has been worse
+than his practice; and his defence more ill-considered than the most
+indefensible things that it was intended to defend. There is in this
+matter a curious tangle of cross-purposes, which only a parallel example
+can make at all clear. And I will note the point here, because it is
+some testimony to its vivid importance that it was really the first I
+had to discuss on American soil with an American citizen. In a double
+sense I touched Ireland before I came to America. I will take an
+imaginary instance from another controversy; in order to show how the
+apology can be worse than the action. The best we can say for ourselves
+is worse than the worst that we can do.
+
+There was a time when English poets and other publicists could always be
+inspired with instantaneous indignation about the persecuted Jews in
+Russia. We have heard less about them since we heard more about the
+persecuting Jews in Russia. I fear there are a great many middle-class
+Englishmen already who wish that Trotsky had been persecuted a little
+more. But even in those days Englishmen divided their minds in a curious
+fashion; and unconsciously distinguished between the Jews whom they had
+never seen, in Warsaw, and the Jews whom they had often seen in
+Whitechapel. It seemed to be assumed that, by a curious coincidence,
+Russia possessed not only the very worst Anti-Semites but the very best
+Semites. A moneylender in London might be like Judas Iscariot; but a
+moneylender in Moscow must be like Judas Maccabaeus.
+
+Nevertheless there remained in our common sense an unconscious but
+fundamental comprehension of the unity of Israel; a sense that some
+things could be said, and some could not be said, about the Jews as a
+whole. Suppose that even in those days, to say nothing of these, an
+English protest against Russian Anti-Semitism had been answered by the
+Russian Anti-Semites, and suppose the answer had been somewhat as
+follows:--
+
+'It is all very well for foreigners to complain of our denying civic
+rights to our Jewish subjects; but we know the Jews better than they do.
+They are a barbarous people, entirely primitive, and very like the
+simple savages who cannot count beyond five on their fingers. It is
+quite impossible to make them understand ordinary numbers, to say
+nothing of simple economics. They do not realise the meaning or the
+value of money. No Jew anywhere in the world can get into his stupid
+head the notion of a bargain, or of exchanging one thing for another.
+Their hopeless incapacity for commerce or finance would retard the
+progress of our people, would prevent the spread of any sort of economic
+education, would keep the whole country on a level lower than that of
+the most prehistoric methods of barter. What Russia needs most is a
+mercantile middle class; and it is unjust to ask us to swamp its small
+beginnings in thousands of these rude tribesmen, who cannot do a sum of
+simple addition, or understand the symbolic character of a threepenny
+bit. We might as well be asked to give civic rights to cows and pigs as
+to this unhappy, half-witted race who can no more count than the beasts
+of the field. In every intellectual exercise they are hopelessly
+incompetent; no Jew can play chess; no Jew can learn languages; no Jew
+has ever appeared in the smallest part in any theatrical performance; no
+Jew can give or take any pleasure connected with any musical instrument.
+These people are our subjects; and we understand them. We accept full
+responsibility for treating such troglodytes on our own terms.'
+
+It would not be entirely convincing. It would sound a little far-fetched
+and unreal. But it would sound exactly like our utterances about the
+Irish, as they sound to all Americans, and rather especially to
+Anti-Irish Americans. That is exactly the impression we produce on the
+people of the United States when we say, as we do say in substance,
+something like this: 'We mean no harm to the poor dear Irish, so dreamy,
+so irresponsible, so incapable of order or organisation. If we were to
+withdraw from their country they would only fight among themselves; they
+have no notion of how to rule themselves. There is something charming
+about their unpracticability, about their very incapacity for the coarse
+business of politics. But for their own sakes it is impossible to leave
+these emotional visionaries to ruin themselves in the attempt to rule
+themselves. They are like children; but they are our own children, and
+we understand them. We accept full responsibility for acting as their
+parents and guardians.'
+
+Now the point is not only that this view of the Irish is false, but that
+it is the particular view that the Americans know to be false. While we
+are saying that the Irish could not organise, the Americans are
+complaining, often very bitterly, of the power of Irish organisation.
+While we say that the Irishman could not rule himself, the Americans are
+saying, more or less humorously, that the Irishman rules them. A highly
+intelligent professor said to me in Boston, 'We have solved the Irish
+problem here; we have an entirely independent Irish Government.' While
+we are complaining, in an almost passionate manner, of the impotence of
+mere cliques of idealists and dreamers, they are complaining, often in a
+very indignant manner, of the power of great gangs of bosses and
+bullies. There are a great many Americans who pity the Irish, very
+naturally and very rightly, for the historic martyrdom which their
+patriotism has endured. But there are a great many Americans who do not
+pity the Irish in the least. They would be much more likely to pity the
+English; only this particular way of talking tends rather to make them
+despise the English. Thus both the friends of Ireland and the foes of
+Ireland tend to be the foes of England. We make one set of enemies by
+our action, and another by our apology.
+
+It is a thing that can from time to time be found in history; a
+misunderstanding that really has a moral. The English excuse would carry
+much more weight if it had more sincerity and more humility. There are
+a considerable number of people in the United States who could
+sympathise with us, if we would say frankly that we fear the Irish.
+Those who thus despise our pity might possibly even respect our fear.
+The argument I have often used in other places comes back with
+prodigious and redoubled force, after hearing anything of American
+opinion; the argument that the only reasonable or reputable excuse for
+the English is the excuse of a patriotic sense of peril; and that the
+Unionist, if he must be a Unionist, should use that and no other. When
+the Unionist has said that he dare not let loose against himself a
+captive he has so cruelly wronged, he has said all that he has to say;
+all that he has ever had to say; all that he will ever have to say. He
+is like a man who has sent a virile and rather vindictive rival unjustly
+to penal servitude; and who connives at the continuance of the sentence,
+not because he himself is particularly vindictive, but because he is
+afraid of what the convict will do when he comes out of prison. This is
+not exactly a moral strength, but it is a very human weakness; and that
+is the most that can be said for it. All other talk, about Celtic frenzy
+or Catholic superstition, is cant invented to deceive himself or to
+deceive the world. But the vital point to realise is that it is cant
+that cannot possibly deceive the American world. In the matter of the
+Irishman the American is not to be deceived. It is not merely true to
+say that he knows better. It is equally true to say that he knows worse.
+He knows vices and evils in the Irishman that are entirely hidden in the
+hazy vision of the Englishman. He knows that our unreal slanders are
+inconsistent even with the real sins. To us Ireland is a shadowy Isle of
+Sunset, like Atlantis, about which we can make up legends. To him it is
+a positive ward or parish in the heart of his huge cities, like
+Whitechapel; about which even we cannot make legends but only lies. And,
+as I have said, there are some lies we do not tell even about
+Whitechapel. We do not say it is inhabited by Jews too stupid to count
+or know the value of a coin.
+
+The first thing for any honest Englishman to send across the sea is
+this; that the English have not the shadow of a notion of what they are
+up against in America. They have never even heard of the batteries of
+almost brutal energy, of which I had thus touched a live wire even
+before I landed. People talk about the hypocrisy of England in dealing
+with a small nationality. What strikes me is the stupidity of England in
+supposing that she is dealing with a small nationality; when she is
+really dealing with a very large nationality. She is dealing with a
+nationality that often threatens, even numerically, to dominate all the
+other nationalities of the United States. The Irish are not decaying;
+they are not unpractical; they are scarcely even scattered; they are not
+even poor. They are the most powerful and practical world-combination
+with whom we can decide to be friends or foes; and that is why I thought
+first of that still and solid brown house in Buckinghamshire, standing
+back in the shadow of the trees.
+
+Among my impressions of America I have deliberately put first the figure
+of the Irish-American interviewer, standing on the shore more symbolic
+than the statue of Liberty. The Irish interviewer's importance for the
+English lay in the fact of his being an Irishman, but there was also
+considerable interest in the circumstance of his being an interviewer.
+And as certain wild birds sometimes wing their way far out to sea and
+are the first signal of the shore, so the first Americans the traveller
+meets are often American interviewers; and they are generally birds of a
+feather, and they certainly flock together. In this respect, there is a
+slight difference in the etiquette of the craft in the two countries,
+which I was delighted to discuss with my fellow craftsmen. If I could at
+that moment have flown back to Fleet Street I am happy to reflect that
+nobody in the world would in the least wish to interview me. I should
+attract no more attention than the stone griffin opposite the Law
+Courts; both monsters being grotesque but also familiar. But supposing
+for the sake of argument that anybody did want to interview me, it is
+fairly certain that the fact of one paper publishing such an interview
+would rather prevent the other papers from doing so. The repetition of
+the same views of the same individual in two places would be considered
+rather bad journalism; it would have an air of stolen thunder, not to
+say stage thunder.
+
+But in America the fact of my landing and lecturing was evidently
+regarded in the same light as a murder or a great fire, or any other
+terrible but incurable catastrophe, a matter of interest to all pressmen
+concerned with practical events. One of the first questions I was asked
+was how I should be disposed to explain the wave of crime in New York.
+Naturally I replied that it might possibly be due to the number of
+English lecturers who had recently landed. In the mood of the moment it
+seemed possible that, if they had all been interviewed, regrettable
+incidents might possibly have taken place. But this was only the mood of
+the moment, and even as a mood did not last more than a moment. And
+since it has reference to a rather common and a rather unjust conception
+of American journalism, I think it well to take it first as a fallacy to
+be refuted, though the refutation may require a rather longer approach.
+
+I have generally found that the traveller fails to understand a foreign
+country, through treating it as a tendency and not as a balance. But if
+a thing were always tending in one direction it would soon tend to
+destruction. Everything that merely progresses finally perishes. Every
+nation, like every family, exists upon a compromise, and commonly a
+rather eccentric compromise; using the word 'eccentric' in the sense of
+something that is somehow at once crazy and healthy. Now the foreigner
+commonly sees some feature that he thinks fantastic without seeing the
+feature that balances it. The ordinary examples are obvious enough. An
+Englishman dining inside a hotel on the boulevards thinks the French
+eccentric in refusing to open a window. But he does not think the
+English eccentric in refusing to carry their chairs and tables out on to
+the pavement in Ludgate Circus. An Englishman will go poking about in
+little Swiss or Italian villages, in wild mountains or in remote
+islands, demanding tea; and never reflects that he is like a Chinaman
+who should enter all the wayside public-houses in Kent and Sussex and
+demand opium. But the point is not merely that he demands what he cannot
+expect to enjoy; it is that he ignores even what he does enjoy. He does
+not realise the sublime and starry paradox of the phrase, _vin
+ordinaire_, which to him should be a glorious jest like the phrase
+'common gold' or 'daily diamonds.' These are the simple and self-evident
+cases; but there are many more subtle cases of the same thing; of the
+tendency to see that the nation fills up its own gap with its own
+substitute; or corrects its own extravagance with its own precaution.
+The national antidote generally grows wild in the woods side by side
+with the national poison. If it did not, all the natives would be dead.
+For it is so, as I have said, that nations necessarily die of the
+undiluted poison called progress.
+
+It is so in this much-abused and over-abused example of the American
+journalist. The American interviewers really have exceedingly good
+manners for the purposes of their trade, granted that it is necessary to
+pursue their trade. And even what is called their hustling method can
+truly be said to cut both ways, or hustle both ways; for if they hustle
+in, they also hustle out. It may not at first sight seem the very
+warmest compliment to a gentleman to congratulate him on the fact that
+he soon goes away. But it really is a tribute to his perfection in a
+very delicate social art; and I am quite serious when I say that in this
+respect the interviewers are artists. It might be more difficult for an
+Englishman to come to the point, particularly the sort of point which
+American journalists are supposed, with some exaggeration, to aim at. It
+might be more difficult for an Englishman to ask a total stranger on the
+spur of the moment for the exact inscription on his mother's grave; but
+I really think that if an Englishman once got so far as that he would go
+very much farther, and certainly go on very much longer. The Englishman
+would approach the churchyard by a rather more wandering woodland path;
+but if once he had got to the grave I think he would have much more
+disposition, so to speak, to sit down on it. Our own national
+temperament would find it decidedly more difficult to disconnect when
+connections had really been established. Possibly that is the reason why
+our national temperament does not establish them. I suspect that the
+real reason that an Englishman does not talk is that he cannot leave off
+talking. I suspect that my solitary countrymen, hiding in separate
+railway compartments, are not so much retiring as a race of Trappists as
+escaping from a race of talkers.
+
+However this may be, there is obviously something of practical advantage
+in the ease with which the American butterfly flits from flower to
+flower. He may in a sense force his acquaintance on us, but he does not
+force himself on us. Even when, to our prejudices, he seems to insist on
+knowing us, at least he does not insist on our knowing him. It may be,
+to some sensibilities, a bad thing that a total stranger should talk as
+if he were a friend, but it might possibly be worse if he insisted on
+being a friend before he would talk like one. To a great deal of the
+interviewing, indeed much the greater part of it, even this criticism
+does not apply; there is nothing which even an Englishman of extreme
+sensibility could regard as particularly private; the questions involved
+are generally entirely public, and treated with not a little public
+spirit. But my only reason for saying here what can be said even for the
+worst exceptions is to point out this general and neglected principle;
+that the very thing that we complain of in a foreigner generally carries
+with it its own foreign cure. American interviewing is generally very
+reasonable, and it is always very rapid. And even those to whom talking
+to an intelligent fellow creature is as horrible as having a tooth out
+may still admit that American interviewing has many of the qualities of
+American dentistry.
+
+Another effect that has given rise to this fallacy, this exaggeration of
+the vulgarity and curiosity of the press, is the distinction between the
+articles and the headlines; or rather the tendency to ignore that
+distinction. The few really untrue and unscrupulous things I have seen
+in American 'stories' have always been in the headlines. And the
+headlines are written by somebody else; some solitary and savage cynic
+locked up in the office, hating all mankind, and raging and revenging
+himself at random, while the neat, polite, and rational pressman can
+safely be let loose to wander about the town.
+
+For instance, I talked to two decidedly thoughtful fellow journalists
+immediately on my arrival at a town in which there had been some labour
+troubles. I told them my general view of Labour in the very largest and
+perhaps the vaguest historical outline; pointing out that the one great
+truth to be taught to the middle classes was that Capitalism was itself
+a crisis, and a passing crisis; that it was not so much that it was
+breaking down as that it had never really stood up. Slaveries could
+last, and peasantries could last; but wage-earning communities could
+hardly even live, and were already dying.
+
+All this moral and even metaphysical generalisation was most fairly and
+most faithfully reproduced by the interviewer, who had actually heard it
+casually and idly spoken. But on the top of this column of political
+philosophy was the extraordinary announcement in enormous letters,
+'Chesterton Takes Sides in Trolley Strike.' This was inaccurate. When I
+spoke I not only did not know that there was any trolley strike, but I
+did not know what a trolley strike was. I should have had an indistinct
+idea that a large number of citizens earned their living by carrying
+things about in wheel-barrows, and that they had desisted from the
+beneficent activities. Any one who did not happen to be a journalist, or
+know a little about journalism, American and English, would have
+supposed that the same man who wrote the article had suddenly gone mad
+and written the title. But I know that we have here to deal with two
+different types of journalists; and the man who writes the headlines I
+will not dare to describe; for I have not seen him except in dreams.
+
+Another innocent complication is that the interviewer does sometimes
+translate things into his native language. It would not seem odd that a
+French interviewer should translate them into French; and it is certain
+that the American interviewer sometimes translates them into American.
+Those who imagine the two languages to be the same are more innocent
+than any interviewer. To take one out of the twenty examples, some of
+which I have mentioned elsewhere, suppose an interviewer had said that I
+had the reputation of being a nut. I should be flattered but faintly
+surprised at such a tribute to my dress and dashing exterior. I should
+afterwards be sobered and enlightened by discovering that in America a
+nut does not mean a dandy but a defective or imbecile person. And as I
+have here to translate their American phrase into English, it may be
+very defensible that they should translate my English phrases into
+American. Anyhow they often do translate them into American. In answer
+to the usual question about Prohibition I had made the usual answer,
+obvious to the point of dullness to those who are in daily contact with
+it, that it is a law that the rich make knowing they can always break
+it. From the printed interview it appeared that I had said,
+'Prohibition! All matter of dollar sign.' This is almost avowed
+translation, like a French translation. Nobody can suppose that it would
+come natural to an Englishman to talk about a dollar, still less about a
+dollar sign--whatever that may be. It is exactly as if he had made me
+talk about the Skelt and Stevenson Toy Theatre as 'a cent plain, and two
+cents coloured' or condemned a parsimonious policy as dime-wise and
+dollar-foolish. Another interviewer once asked me who was the greatest
+American writer. I have forgotten exactly what I said, but after
+mentioning several names, I said that the greatest natural genius and
+artistic force was probably Walt Whitman. The printed interview is more
+precise; and students of my literary and conversational style will be
+interested to know that I said, 'See here, Walt Whitman was your one
+real red-blooded man.' Here again I hardly think the translation can
+have been quite unconscious; most of my intimates are indeed aware that
+I do not talk like that, but I fancy that the same fact would have
+dawned on the journalist to whom I had been talking. And even this
+trivial point carries with it the two truths which must be, I fear, the
+rather monotonous moral of these pages. The first is that America and
+England can be far better friends when sharply divided than when
+shapelessly amalgamated. These two journalists were false reporters, but
+they were true translators. They were not so much interviewers as
+interpreters. And the second is that in any such difference it is often
+wholesome to look beneath the surface for a superiority. For ability to
+translate does imply ability to understand; and many of these
+journalists really did understand. I think there are many English
+journalists who would be more puzzled by so simple an idea as the
+plutocratic foundation of Prohibition. But the American knew at once
+that I meant it was a matter of dollar sign; probably because he knew
+very well that it is.
+
+Then again there is a curious convention by which American interviewing
+makes itself out much worse than it is. The reports are far more rowdy
+and insolent than the conversations. This is probably a part of the fact
+that a certain vivacity, which to some seems vitality and to some
+vulgarity, is not only an ambition but an ideal. It must always be
+grasped that this vulgarity is an ideal even more than it is a reality.
+It is an ideal when it is not a reality. A very quiet and intelligent
+young man, in a soft black hat and tortoise-shell spectacles, will ask
+for an interview with unimpeachable politeness, wait for his living
+subject with unimpeachable patience, talk to him quite sensibly for
+twenty minutes, and go noiselessly away. Then in the newspaper next
+morning you will read how he beat the bedroom door in, and pursued his
+victim on to the roof or dragged him from under the bed, and tore from
+him replies to all sorts of bald and ruthless questions printed in large
+black letters. I was often interviewed in the evening, and had no notion
+of how atrociously I had been insulted till I saw it in the paper next
+morning. I had no notion I had been on the rack of an inquisitor until I
+saw it in plain print; and then of course I believed it, with a faith
+and docility unknown in any previous epoch of history. An interesting
+essay might be written upon points upon which nations affect more vices
+than they possess; and it might deal more fully with the American
+pressman, who is a harmless clubman in private, and becomes a sort of
+highway-robber in print.
+
+I have turned this chapter into something like a defence of
+interviewers, because I really think they are made to bear too much of
+the burden of the bad developments of modern journalism. But I am very
+far from meaning to suggest that those bad developments are not very
+bad. So far from wishing to minimise the evil, I would in a real sense
+rather magnify it. I would suggest that the evil itself is a much larger
+and more fundamental thing; and that to deal with it by abusing poor
+journalists, doing their particular and perhaps peculiar duty, is like
+dealing with a pestilence by rubbing at one of the spots. What is wrong
+with the modern world will not be righted by attributing the whole
+disease to each of its symptoms in turn; first to the tavern and then to
+the cinema and then to the reporter's room. The evil of journalism is
+not in the journalists. It is not in the poor men on the lower level of
+the profession, but in the rich men at the top of the profession; or
+rather in the rich men who are too much on top of the profession even to
+belong to it. The trouble with newspapers is the Newspaper Trust, as the
+trouble might be with a Wheat Trust, without involving a vilification of
+all the people who grow wheat. It is the American plutocracy and not the
+American press. What is the matter with the modern world is not modern
+headlines or modern films or modern machinery. What is the matter with
+the modern world is the modern world; and the cure will come from
+another.
+
+
+
+
+_Some American Cities_
+
+
+There is one point, almost to be called a paradox, to be noted about New
+York; and that is that in one sense it is really new. The term very
+seldom has any relevance to the reality. The New Forest is nearly as old
+as the Conquest, and the New Theology is nearly as old as the Creed.
+Things have been offered to me as the new thought that might more
+properly be called the old thoughtlessness; and the thing we call the
+New Poor Law is already old enough to know better. But there is a sense
+in which New York is always new; in the sense that it is always being
+renewed. A stranger might well say that the chief industry of the
+citizens consists of destroying their city; but he soon realises that
+they always start it all over again with undiminished energy and hope.
+At first I had a fancy that they never quite finished putting up a big
+building without feeling that it was time to pull it down again; and
+that somebody began to dig up the first foundations while somebody else
+was putting on the last tiles. This fills the whole of this brilliant
+and bewildering place with a quite unique and unparalleled air of rapid
+ruin. Ruins spring up so suddenly like mushrooms, which with us are the
+growth of age like mosses, that one half expects to see ivy climbing
+quickly up the broken walls as in the nightmare of the Time Machine, or
+in some incredibly accelerated cinema.
+
+There is no sight in any country that raises my own spirits so much as
+a scaffolding. It is a tragedy that they always take the scaffolding
+away, and leave us nothing but a mere building. If they would only take
+the building away and leave us a beautiful scaffolding, it would in most
+cases be a gain to the loveliness of earth. If I could analyse what it
+is that lifts the heart about the lightness and clarity of such a white
+and wooden skeleton, I could explain what it is that is really charming
+about New York; in spite of its suffering from the curse of
+cosmopolitanism and even the provincial superstition of progress. It is
+partly that all this destruction and reconstruction is an unexhausted
+artistic energy; but it is partly also that it is an artistic energy
+that does not take itself too seriously. It is first because man is here
+a carpenter; and secondly because he is a stage carpenter. Indeed there
+is about the whole scene the spirit of scene-shifting. It therefore
+touches whatever nerve in us has since childhood thrilled at all
+theatrical things. But the picture will be imperfect unless we realise
+something which gives it unity and marks its chief difference from the
+climate and colours of Western Europe. We may say that the back-scene
+remains the same. The sky remained, and in the depths of winter it
+seemed to be blue with summer; and so clear that I almost flattered
+myself that clouds were English products like primroses. An American
+would probably retort on my charge of scene-shifting by saying that at
+least he only shifted the towers and domes of the earth; and that in
+England it is the heavens that are shifty. And indeed we have changes
+from day to day that would seem to him as distinct as different
+magic-lantern slides; one view showing the Bay of Naples and the next
+the North Pole. I do not mean, of course, that there are no changes in
+American weather; but as a matter of proportion it is true that the most
+unstable part of our scenery is the most stable part of theirs. Indeed
+we might almost be pardoned the boast that Britain alone really
+possesses the noble thing called weather; most other countries having to
+be content with climate. It must be confessed, however, that they often
+are content with it. And the beauty of New York, which is considerable,
+is very largely due to the clarity that brings out the colours of varied
+buildings against the equal colour of the sky. Strangely enough I found
+myself repeating about this vista of the West two vivid lines in which
+Mr. W. B. Yeats has called up a vision of the East:--
+
+
+ And coloured like the eastern birds
+ At evening in their rainless skies.
+
+
+To invoke a somewhat less poetic parallel, even the untravelled
+Englishman has probably seen American posters and trade advertisements
+of a patchy and gaudy kind, in which a white house or a yellow motor-car
+are cut out as in cardboard against a sky like blue marble. I used to
+think it was only New Art, but I found that it is really New York.
+
+It is not for nothing that the very nature of local character has gained
+the nickname of local colour. Colour runs through all our experience;
+and we all know that our childhood found talismanic gems in the very
+paints in the paint-box, or even in their very names. And just as the
+very name of 'crimson lake' really suggested to me some sanguine and
+mysterious mere, dark yet red as blood, so the very name of 'burnt
+sienna' became afterwards tangled up in my mind with the notion of
+something traditional and tragic; as if some such golden Italian city
+had really been darkened by many conflagrations in the wars of mediaeval
+democracy. Now if one had the caprice of conceiving some city exactly
+contrary to one thus seared and seasoned by fire, its colour might be
+called up to a childish fancy by the mere name of 'raw umber'; and such
+a city is New York. I used to be puzzled by the name of 'raw umber,'
+being unable to imagine the effect of fried umber or stewed umber. But
+the colours of New York are exactly in that key; and might be adumbrated
+by phrases like raw pink or raw yellow. It is really in a sense like
+something uncooked; or something which the satiric would call
+half-baked. And yet the effect is not only beautiful, it is even
+delicate. I had no name for this nuance; until I saw that somebody had
+written of 'the pastel-tinted towers of New York'; and I knew that the
+name had been found. There are no paints dry enough to describe all that
+dry light; and it is not a box of colours but of crayons. If the
+Englishman returning to England is moved at the sight of a block of
+white chalk, the American sees rather a bundle of chalks. Nor can I
+imagine anything more moving. Fairy tales are told to children about a
+country where the trees are like sugar-sticks and the lakes like
+treacle, but most children would feel almost as greedy for a fairyland
+where the trees were like brushes of green paint and the hills were of
+coloured chalks.
+
+But here what accentuates this arid freshness is the fragmentary look of
+the continual reconstruction and change. The strong daylight finds
+everywhere the broken edges of things, and the sort of hues we see in
+newly-turned earth or the white sections of trees. And it is in this
+respect that the local colour can literally be taken as local character.
+For New York considered in itself is primarily a place of unrest, and
+those who sincerely love it, as many do, love it for the romance of its
+restlessness. A man almost looks at a building as he passes to wonder
+whether it will be there when he comes back from his walk; and the doubt
+is part of an indescribable notion, as of a white nightmare of daylight,
+which is increased by the very numbering of the streets, with its tangle
+of numerals which at first makes an English head reel. The detail is
+merely a symbol; and when he is used to it he can see that it is, like
+the most humdrum human customs, both worse and better than his own. '271
+West 52nd Street' is the easiest of all addresses to find, but the
+hardest of all addresses to remember. He who is, like myself, so
+constituted as necessarily to lose any piece of paper he has particular
+reason to preserve, will find himself wishing the place were called
+'Pine Crest' or 'Heather Crag' like any unobtrusive villa in Streatham.
+But his sense of some sort of incalculable calculations, as of the
+vision of a mad mathematician, is rooted in a more real impression. His
+first feeling that his head is turning round is due to something really
+dizzy in the movement of a life that turns dizzily like a wheel. If
+there be in the modern mind something paradoxical that can find peace in
+change, it is here that it has indeed built its habitation or rather is
+still building and unbuilding it. One might fancy that it changes in
+everything and that nothing endures but its invisible name; and even its
+name, as I have said, seems to make a boast of novelty.
+
+That is something like a sincere first impression of the atmosphere of
+New York. Those who think that is the atmosphere of America have never
+got any farther than New York. We might almost say that they have never
+entered America, any more than if they had been detained like
+undesirable aliens at Ellis Island. And indeed there are a good many
+undesirable aliens detained in Manhattan Island too. But of that I will
+not speak, being myself an alien with no particular pretensions to be
+desirable. Anyhow, such is New York; but such is not the New World. The
+great American Republic contains very considerable varieties, and of
+these varieties I necessarily saw far too little to allow me to
+generalise. But from the little I did see, I should venture on the
+generalisation that the great part of America is singularly and even
+strikingly unlike New York. It goes without saying that New York is very
+unlike the vast agricultural plains and small agricultural towns of the
+Middle West, which I did see. It may be conjectured with some confidence
+that it is very unlike what is called the Wild and sometimes the Woolly
+West, which I did not see. But I am here comparing New York, not with
+the newer states of the prairie or the mountains, but with the other
+older cities of the Atlantic coast. And New York, as it seems to me, is
+quite vitally different from the other historic cities of America. It is
+so different that it shows them all for the moment in a false light, as
+a long white searchlight will throw a light that is fantastic and
+theatrical upon ancient and quiet villages folded in the everlasting
+hills. Philadelphia and Boston and Baltimore are more like those quiet
+villages than they are like New York.
+
+If I were to call this book 'The Antiquities of America,' I should give
+rise to misunderstanding and possibly to annoyance. And yet the double
+sense in such words is an undeserved misfortune for them. We talk of
+Plato or the Parthenon or the Greek passion for beauty as parts of the
+antique, but hardly of the antiquated. When we call them ancient it is
+not because they have perished, but rather because they have survived.
+In the same way I heard some New Yorkers refer to Philadelphia or
+Baltimore as 'dead towns.' They mean by a dead town a town that has had
+the impudence not to die. Such people are astonished to find an ancient
+thing alive, just as they are now astonished, and will be increasingly
+astonished, to find Poland or the Papacy or the French nation still
+alive. And what I mean by Philadelphia and Baltimore being alive is
+precisely what these people mean by their being dead; it is continuity;
+it is the presence of the life first breathed into them and of the
+purpose of their being; it is the benediction of the founders of the
+colonies and the fathers of the republic. This tradition is truly to be
+called life; for life alone can link the past and the future. It merely
+means that as what was done yesterday makes some difference to-day, so
+what is done to-day will make some difference to-morrow. In New York it
+is difficult to feel that any day will make any difference. These
+moderns only die daily without power to rise from the dead. But I can
+truly claim that in coming into some of these more stable cities of the
+States I felt something quite sincerely of that historic emotion which
+is satisfied in the eternal cities of the Mediterranean. I felt in
+America what many Americans suppose can only be felt in Europe. I have
+seldom had that sentiment stirred more simply and directly than when I
+saw from afar off, above the vast grey labyrinth of Philadelphia, great
+Penn upon his pinnacle like the graven figure of a god who had fashioned
+a new world; and remembered that his body lay buried in a field at the
+turning of a lane, a league from my own door.
+
+For this aspect of America is rather neglected in the talk about
+electricity and headlines. Needless to say, the modern vulgarity of
+avarice and advertisement sprawls all over Philadelphia or Boston; but
+so it does over Winchester or Canterbury. But most people know that
+there is something else to be found in Canterbury or Winchester; many
+people know that it is rather more interesting; and some people know
+that Alfred can still walk in Winchester and that St. Thomas at
+Canterbury was killed but did not die. It is at least as possible for a
+Philadelphian to feel the presence of Penn and Franklin as for an
+Englishman to see the ghosts of Alfred and of Becket. Tradition does not
+mean a dead town; it does not mean that the living are dead but that the
+dead are alive. It means that it still matters what Penn did two hundred
+years ago or what Franklin did a hundred years ago; I never could feel
+in New York that it mattered what anybody did an hour ago. And these
+things did and do matter. Quakerism is not my favourite creed; but on
+that day when William Penn stood unarmed upon that spot and made his
+treaty with the Red Indians, his creed of humanity did have a triumph
+and a triumph that has not turned back. The praise given to him is not a
+priggish fiction of our conventional history, though such fictions have
+illogically curtailed it. The Nonconformists have been rather unfair to
+Penn even in picking their praises; and they generally forget that
+toleration cuts both ways and that an open mind is open on all sides.
+Those who deify him for consenting to bargain with the savages cannot
+forgive him for consenting to bargain with the Stuarts. And the same is
+true of the other city, yet more closely connected with the tolerant
+experiment of the Stuarts. The state of Maryland was the first
+experiment in religious freedom in human history. Lord Baltimore and his
+Catholics were a long march ahead of William Penn and his Quakers on
+what is now called the path of progress. That the first religious
+toleration ever granted in the world was granted by Roman Catholics is
+one of those little informing details with which our Victorian histories
+did not exactly teem. But when I went into my hotel at Baltimore and
+found two priests waiting to see me, I was moved in a new fashion, for I
+felt that I touched the end of a living chain. Nor was the impression
+accidental; it will always remain with me with a mixture of gratitude
+and grief, for they brought a message of welcome from a great American
+whose name I had known from childhood and whose career was drawing to
+its close; for it was but a few days after I left the city that I
+learned that Cardinal Gibbons was dead.
+
+On the top of a hill on one side of the town stood the first monument
+raised after the Revolution to Washington. Beyond it was a new monument
+saluting in the name of Lafayette the American soldiers who fell
+fighting in France in the Great War. Between them were steps and stone
+seats, and I sat down on one of them and talked to two children who were
+clambering about the bases of the monument. I felt a profound and
+radiant peace in the thought that they at any rate were not going to my
+lecture. It made me happy that in that talk neither they nor I had any
+names. I was full of that indescribable waking vision of the strangeness
+of life, and especially of the strangeness of locality; of how we find
+places and lose them; and see faces for a moment in a far-off land, and
+it is equally mysterious if we remember and mysterious if we forget. I
+had even stirring in my head the suggestion of some verses that I shall
+never finish--
+
+
+ If I ever go back to Baltimore
+ The city of Maryland.
+
+
+But the poem would have to contain far too much; for I was thinking of a
+thousand things at once; and wondering what the children would be like
+twenty years after and whether they would travel in white goods or be
+interested in oil, and I was not untouched (it may be said) by the fact
+that a neighbouring shop had provided the only sample of the substance
+called 'tea' ever found on the American continent; and in front of me
+soared up into the sky on wings of stone the column of all those high
+hopes of humanity a hundred years ago; and beyond there were lighted
+candles in the chapels and prayers in the ante-chambers, where perhaps
+already a Prince of the Church was dying. Only on a later page can I
+even attempt to comb out such a tangle of contrasts, which is indeed the
+tangle of America and this mortal life; but sitting there on that stone
+seat under that quiet sky, I had some experience of the thronging
+thousands of living thoughts and things, noisy and numberless as birds,
+that give its everlasting vivacity and vitality to a dead town.
+
+Two other cities I visited which have this particular type of
+traditional character, the one being typical of the North and the other
+of the South. At least I may take as convenient anti-types the towns of
+Boston and St. Louis; and we might add Nashville as being a shade more
+truly southern than St. Louis. To the extreme South, in the sense of
+what is called the Black Belt, I never went at all. Now English
+travellers expect the South to be somewhat traditional; but they are not
+prepared for the aspects of Boston in the North which are even more so.
+If we wished only for an antic of antithesis, we might say that on one
+side the places are more prosaic than the names and on the other the
+names are more prosaic than the places. St. Louis is a fine town, and we
+recognise a fine instinct of the imagination that set on the hill
+overlooking the river the statue of that holy horseman who has
+christened the city. But the city is not as beautiful as its name; it
+could not be. Indeed these titles set up a standard to which the most
+splendid spires and turrets could not rise, and below which the
+commercial chimneys and sky-signs conspicuously sink. We should think it
+odd if Belfast had borne the name of Joan of Arc. We should be slightly
+shocked if the town of Johannesburg happened to be called Jesus Christ.
+But few have noted a blasphemy, or even a somewhat challenging
+benediction, to be found in the very name of San Francisco.
+
+But on the other hand a place like Boston is much more beautiful than
+its name. And, as I have suggested, an Englishman's general information,
+or lack of information, leaves him in some ignorance of the type of
+beauty that turns up in that type of place. He has heard so much about
+the purely commercial North as against the agricultural and
+aristocratic South, and the traditions of Boston and Philadelphia are
+rather too tenuous and delicate to be seen from across the Atlantic. But
+here also there are traditions and a great deal of traditionalism. The
+circle of old families, which still meets with a certain exclusiveness
+in Philadelphia, is the sort of thing that we in England should expect
+to find rather in New Orleans. The academic aristocracy of Boston, which
+Oliver Wendell Holmes called the Brahmins, is still a reality though it
+was always a minority and is now a very small minority. An epigram,
+invented by Yale at the expense of Harvard, describes it as very small
+indeed:--
+
+
+ Here is to jolly old Boston, the home of the bean and the cod,
+ Where Cabots speak only to Lowells, and Lowells speak only to God.
+
+
+But an aristocracy must be a minority, and it is arguable that the
+smaller it is the better. I am bound to say, however, that the
+distinguished Dr. Cabot, the present representative of the family, broke
+through any taboo that may tie his affections to his Creator and to Miss
+Amy Lowell, and broadened his sympathies so indiscriminately as to show
+kindness and hospitality to so lost a being as an English lecturer. But
+if the thing is hardly a limit it is very living as a memory; and Boston
+on this side is very much a place of memories. It would be paying it a
+very poor compliment merely to say that parts of it reminded me of
+England; for indeed they reminded me of English things that have largely
+vanished from England. There are old brown houses in the corners of
+squares and streets that are like glimpses of a man's forgotten
+childhood; and when I saw the long path with posts where the Autocrat
+may be supposed to have walked with the schoolmistress, I felt I had
+come to the land where old tales come true.
+
+I pause in this place upon this particular aspect of America because it
+is very much missed in a mere contrast with England. I need not say that
+if I felt it even about slight figures of fiction, I felt it even more
+about solid figures of history. Such ghosts seemed particularly solid in
+the Southern States, precisely because of the comparative quietude and
+leisure of the atmosphere of the South. It was never more vivid to me
+than when coming in, at a quiet hour of the night, into the
+comparatively quiet hotel at Nashville in Tennessee, and mounting to a
+dim and deserted upper floor where I found myself before a faded
+picture; and from the dark canvas looked forth the face of Andrew
+Jackson, watchful like a white eagle.
+
+At that moment, perhaps, I was in more than one sense alone. Most
+Englishmen know a good deal of American fiction, and nothing whatever of
+American history. They know more about the autocrat of the
+breakfast-table than about the autocrat of the army and the people, the
+one great democratic despot of modern times; the Napoleon of the New
+World. The only notion the English public ever got about American
+politics they got from a novel, _Uncle Tom's Cabin_; and to say the
+least of it, it was no exception to the prevalence of fiction over fact.
+Hundreds of us have heard of Tom Sawyer for one who has heard of Charles
+Sumner; and it is probable that most of us could pass a more detailed
+examination about Toddy and Budge than about Lincoln and Lee. But in
+the case of Andrew Jackson it may be that I felt a special sense of
+individual isolation; for I believe that there are even fewer among
+Englishmen than among Americans who realise that the energy of that
+great man was largely directed towards saving us from the chief evil
+which destroys the nations to-day. He sought to cut down, as with a
+sword of simplicity, the new and nameless enormity of finance; and he
+must have known, as by a lightning flash, that the people were behind
+him, because all the politicians were against him. The end of that
+struggle is not yet; but if the bank is stronger than the sword or the
+sceptre of popular sovereignty, the end will be the end of democracy. It
+will have to choose between accepting an acknowledged dictator and
+accepting dictation which it dare not acknowledge. The process will have
+begun by giving power to people and refusing to give them their titles;
+and it will have ended by giving the power to people who refuse to give
+us their names.
+
+But I have a special reason for ending this chapter on the name of the
+great popular dictator who made war on the politicians and the
+financiers. This chapter does not profess to touch on one in twenty of
+the interesting cities of America, even in this particular aspect of
+their relation to the history of America, which is so much neglected in
+England. If that were so, there would be a great deal to say even about
+the newest of them; Chicago, for instance, is certainly something more
+than the mere pork-packing yard that English tradition suggests; and it
+has been building a boulevard not unworthy of its splendid position on
+its splendid lake. But all these cities are defiled and even diseased
+with industrialism. It is due to the Americans to remember that they
+have deliberately preserved one of their cities from such defilement and
+such disease. And that is the presidential city, which stands in the
+American mind for the same ideal as the President; the idea of the
+Republic that rises above modern money-getting and endures. There has
+really been an effort to keep the White House white. No factories are
+allowed in that town; no more than the necessary shops are tolerated. It
+is a beautiful city; and really retains something of that classical
+serenity of the eighteenth century in which the Fathers of the Republic
+moved. With all respect to the colonial place of that name, I do not
+suppose that Wellington is particularly like Wellington. But Washington
+really is like Washington.
+
+In this, as in so many things, there is no harm in our criticising
+foreigners, if only we would also criticise ourselves. In other words,
+the world might need even less of its new charity, if it had a little
+more of the old humility. When we complain of American individualism, we
+forget that we have fostered it by ourselves having far less of this
+impersonal ideal of the Republic or commonwealth as a whole. When we
+complain, very justly, for instance, of great pictures passing into the
+possession of American magnates, we ought to remember that we paved the
+way for it by allowing them all to accumulate in the possession of
+English magnates. It is bad that a public treasure should be in the
+possession of a private man in America, but we took the first step in
+lightly letting it disappear into the private collection of a man in
+England. I know all about the genuine national tradition which treated
+the aristocracy as constituting the state; but these very foreign
+purchases go to prove that we ought to have had a state independent of
+the aristocracy. It is true that rich Americans do sometimes covet the
+monuments of our culture in a fashion that rightly revolts us as vulgar
+and irrational. They are said sometimes to want to take whole buildings
+away with them; and too many of such buildings are private and for sale.
+There were wilder stories of a millionaire wishing to transplant
+Glastonbury Abbey and similar buildings as if they were portable shrubs
+in pots. It is obvious that it is nonsense as well as vandalism to
+separate Glastonbury Abbey from Glastonbury. I can understand a man
+venerating it as a ruin; and I can understand a man despising it as a
+rubbish-heap. But it is senseless to insult a thing in order to
+idolatrise it; it is meaningless to desecrate the shrine in order to
+worship the stones. That sort of thing is the bad side of American
+appetite and ambition; and we are perfectly right to see it not only as
+a deliberate blasphemy but as an unconscious buffoonery. But there is
+another side to the American tradition, which is really too much lacking
+in our own tradition. And it is illustrated in this idea of preserving
+Washington as a sort of paradise of impersonal politics without personal
+commerce. Nobody could buy the White House or the Washington Monument;
+it may be hinted (as by an inhabitant of Glastonbury) that nobody wants
+to; but nobody could if he did want to. There is really a certain air of
+serenity and security about the place, lacking in every other American
+town. It is increased, of course, by the clear blue skies of that
+half-southern province, from which smoke has been banished. The effect
+is not so much in the mere buildings, though they are classical and
+often beautiful. But whatever else they have built, they have built a
+great blue dome, the largest dome in the world. And the place does
+express something in the inconsistent idealism of this strange people;
+and here at least they have lifted it higher than all the sky-scrapers,
+and set it in a stainless sky.
+
+
+
+
+_In the American Country_
+
+
+The sharpest pleasure of a traveller is in finding the things which he
+did not expect, but which he might have expected to expect. I mean the
+things that are at once so strange and so obvious that they must have
+been noticed, yet somehow they have not been noted. Thus I had heard a
+thousand things about Jerusalem before I ever saw it; I had heard
+rhapsodies and disparagements of every description. Modern rationalistic
+critics, with characteristic consistency, had blamed it for its
+accumulated rubbish and its modern restoration, for its antiquated
+superstition and its up-to-date vulgarity. But somehow the one
+impression that had never pierced through their description was the
+simple and single impression of a city on a hill, with walls coming to
+the very edge of slopes that were almost as steep as walls; the turreted
+city which crowns a cone-shaped hill in so many mediaeval landscapes.
+One would suppose that this was at once the plainest and most
+picturesque of all the facts; yet somehow, in my reading, I had always
+lost it amid a mass of minor facts that were merely details. We know
+that a city that is set upon a hill cannot be hid; and yet it would seem
+that it is exactly the hill that is hid; though perhaps it is only hid
+from the wise and the understanding. I had a similar and simple
+impression when I discovered America. I cannot avoid the phrase; for it
+would really seem that each man discovers it for himself.
+
+Thus I had heard a great deal, before I saw them, about the tall and
+dominant buildings of New York. I agree that they have an instant effect
+on the imagination; which I think is increased by the situation in which
+they stand, and out of which they arose. They are all the more
+impressive because the building, while it is vertically so vast, is
+horizontally almost narrow. New York is an island, and has all the
+intensive romance of an island. It is a thing of almost infinite height
+upon very finite foundations. It is almost like a lofty lighthouse upon
+a lonely rock. But this story of the sky-scrapers, which I had often
+heard, would by itself give a curiously false impression of the freshest
+and most curious characteristic of American architecture. Told only in
+terms of these great towers of stone and brick in the big industrial
+cities, the story would tend too much to an impression of something cold
+and colossal like the monuments of Asia. It would suggest a modern
+Babylon altogether too Babylonian. It would imply that a man of the new
+world was a sort of new Pharaoh, who built not so much a pyramid as a
+pagoda of pyramids. It would suggest houses built by mammoths out of
+mountains; the cities reared by elephants in their own elephantine
+school of architecture. And New York does recall the most famous of all
+sky-scrapers--the tower of Babel. She recalls it none the less because
+there is no doubt about the confusion of tongues. But in truth the very
+reverse is true of most of the buildings in America. I had no sooner
+passed out into the suburbs of New York on the way to Boston than I
+began to see something else quite contrary and far more curious. I saw
+forests upon forests of small houses stretching away to the horizon as
+literal forests do; villages and towns and cities. And they were, in
+another sense, literally like forests. They were all made of wood. It
+was almost as fantastic to an English eye as if they had been all made
+of cardboard. I had long outlived the silly old joke that referred to
+Americans as if they all lived in the backwoods. But, in a sense, if
+they do not live in the woods, they are not yet out of the wood.
+
+I do not say this in any sense as a criticism. As it happens, I am
+particularly fond of wood. Of all the superstitions which our fathers
+took lightly enough to love, the most natural seems to me the notion it
+is lucky to touch wood. Some of them affect me the less as
+superstitions, because I feel them as symbols. If humanity had really
+thought Friday unlucky it would have talked about bad Friday instead of
+good Friday. And while I feel the thrill of thirteen at a table, I am
+not so sure that it is the most miserable of all human fates to fill the
+places of the Twelve Apostles. But the idea that there was something
+cleansing or wholesome about the touching of wood seems to me one of
+those ideas which are truly popular, because they are truly poetic. It
+is probable enough that the conception came originally from the healing
+of the wood of the Cross; but that only clinches the divine coincidence.
+It is like that other divine coincidence that the Victim was a
+carpenter, who might almost have made His own cross. Whether we take the
+mystical or the mythical explanation, there is obviously a very deep
+connection between the human working in wood and such plain and pathetic
+mysticism. It gives something like a touch of the holy childishness to
+the tale, as if that terrible engine could be a toy. In the same fashion
+a child fancies that mysterious and sinister horse, which was the
+downfall of Troy, as something plain and staring, and perhaps spotted,
+like his own rocking-horse in the nursery.
+
+It might be said symbolically that Americans have a taste for
+rocking-horses, as they certainly have a taste for rocking-chairs. A
+flippant critic might suggest that they select rocking-chairs so that,
+even when they are sitting down, they need not be sitting still.
+Something of this restlessness in the race may really be involved in the
+matter; but I think the deeper significance of the rocking-chair may
+still be found in the deeper symbolism of the rocking-horse. I think
+there is behind all this fresh and facile use of wood a certain spirit
+that is childish in the good sense of the word; something that is
+innocent, and easily pleased. It is not altogether untrue, still less is
+it unfriendly, to say that the landscape seems to be dotted with dolls'
+houses. It is the true tragedy of every fallen son of Adam that he has
+grown too big to live in a doll's house. These things seem somehow to
+escape the irony of time by not even challenging it; they are too
+temporary even to be merely temporal. These people are not building
+tombs; they are not, as in the fine image of Mrs. Meynell's poem, merely
+building ruins. It is not easy to imagine the ruins of a doll's house;
+and that is why a doll's house is an everlasting habitation. How far it
+promises a political permanence is a matter for further discussion; I am
+only describing the mood of discovery; in which all these cottages built
+of lath, like the palaces of a pantomime, really seemed coloured like
+the clouds of morning; which are both fugitive and eternal.
+
+There is also in all this an atmosphere that comes in another sense from
+the nursery. We hear much of Americans being educated on English
+literature; but I think few Americans realise how much English children
+have been educated on American literature. It is true, and it is
+inevitable, that they can only be educated on rather old-fashioned
+American literature. Mr. Bernard Shaw, in one of his plays, noted truly
+the limitations of the young American millionaire, and especially the
+staleness of his English culture; but there is necessarily another side
+to it. If the American talked more of Macaulay than of Nietzsche, we
+should probably talk more of Emerson than of Ezra Pound. Whether this
+staleness is necessarily a disadvantage is, of course, a different
+question. But, in any case, it is true that the old American books were
+often the books of our childhood, even in the literal sense of the books
+of our nursery. I know few men in England who have not left their
+boyhood to some extent lost and entangled in the forests of _Huckleberry
+Finn_. I know few women in England, from the most revolutionary
+Suffragette to the most carefully preserved Early Victorian, who will
+not confess to having passed a happy childhood with the Little Women of
+Miss Alcott. _Helen's Babies_ was the first and by far the best book in
+the modern scriptures of baby-worship. And about all this old-fashioned
+American literature there was an undefinable savour that satisfied, and
+even fed, our growing minds. Perhaps it was the smell of growing things;
+but I am far from certain that it was not simply the smell of wood. Now
+that all the memory comes back to me, it seems to come back heavy in a
+hundred forms with the fragrance and the touch of timber. There was the
+perpetual reference to the wood-pile, the perpetual background of the
+woods. There was something crude and clean about everything; something
+fresh and strange about those far-off houses, to which I could not then
+have put a name. Indeed, many things become clear in this wilderness of
+wood, which could only be expressed in symbol and even in fantasy. I
+will not go so far as to say that it shortened the transition from Log
+Cabin to White House; as if the White House were itself made of white
+wood (as Oliver Wendell Holmes said), 'that cuts like cheese, but lasts
+like iron for things like these.' But I will say that the experience
+illuminates some other lines by Holmes himself:--
+
+
+ Little I ask, my wants are few,
+ I only ask a hut of stone.
+
+
+I should not have known, in England, that he was already asking for a
+good deal even in asking for that. In the presence of this wooden world
+the very combination of words seems almost a contradiction, like a hut
+of marble, or a hovel of gold.
+
+It was therefore with an almost infantile pleasure that I looked at all
+this promising expansion of fresh-cut timber and thought of the housing
+shortage at home. I know not by what incongruous movement of the mind
+there swept across me, at the same moment, the thought of things
+ancestral and hoary with the light of ancient dawns. The last war
+brought back body-armour; the next war may bring back bows and arrows.
+And I suddenly had a memory of old wooden houses in London; and a model
+of Shakespeare's town.
+
+It is possible indeed that such Elizabethan memories may receive a check
+or a chill when the traveller comes, as he sometimes does, to the
+outskirts of one of these strange hamlets of new frame-houses, and is
+confronted with a placard inscribed in enormous letters, 'Watch Us
+Grow.' He can always imagine that he sees the timbers swelling before
+his eyes like pumpkins in some super-tropical summer. But he may have
+formed the conviction that no such proclamation could be found outside
+Shakespeare's town. And indeed there is a serious criticism here, to any
+one who knows history; since the things that grow are not always the
+things that remain; and pumpkins of that expansiveness have a tendency
+to burst. I was always told that Americans were harsh, hustling, rather
+rude and perhaps vulgar; but they were very practical and the future
+belonged to them. I confess I felt a fine shade of difference; I liked
+the Americans; I thought they were sympathetic, imaginative, and full of
+fine enthusiasms; the one thing I could not always feel clear about was
+their future. I believe they were happier in their frame-houses than
+most people in most houses; having democracy, good education, and a
+hobby of work; the one doubt that did float across me was something
+like, 'Will all this be here at all in two hundred years?' That was the
+first impression produced by the wooden houses that seemed like the
+waggons of gipsies; it is a serious impression, but there is an answer
+to it. It is an answer that opens on the traveller more and more as he
+goes westward, and finds the little towns dotted about the vast central
+prairies. And the answer is agriculture. Wooden houses may or may not
+last; but farms will last; and farming will always last.
+
+The houses may look like gipsy caravans on a heath or common; but they
+are not on a heath or common. They are on the most productive and
+prosperous land, perhaps, in the modern world. The houses might fall
+down like shanties, but the fields would remain; and whoever tills
+those fields will count for a great deal in the affairs of humanity.
+They are already counting for a great deal, and possibly for too much,
+in the affairs of America. The real criticism of the Middle West is
+concerned with two facts, neither of which has been yet adequately
+appreciated by the educated class in England. The first is that the turn
+of the world has come, and the turn of the agricultural countries with
+it. That is the meaning of the resurrection of Ireland; that is the
+meaning of the practical surrender of the Bolshevist Jews to the Russian
+peasants. The other is that in most places these peasant societies carry
+on what may be called the Catholic tradition. The Middle West is perhaps
+the one considerable place where they still carry on the Puritan
+tradition. But the Puritan tradition was originally a tradition of the
+town; and the second truth about the Middle West turns largely on its
+moral relation to the town. As I shall suggest presently, there is much
+in common between this agricultural society of America and the great
+agricultural societies of Europe. It tends, as the agricultural society
+nearly always does, to some decent degree of democracy. The agricultural
+society tends to the agrarian law. But in Puritan America there is an
+additional problem, which I can hardly explain without a periphrasis.
+
+There was a time when the progress of the cities seemed to mock the
+decay of the country. It is more and more true, I think, to-day that it
+is rather the decay of the cities that seems to poison the progress and
+promise of the countryside. The cinema boasts of being a substitute for
+the tavern, but I think it a very bad substitute. I think so quite apart
+from the question about fermented liquor. Nobody enjoys cinemas more
+than I, but to enjoy them a man has only to look and not even to listen,
+and in a tavern he has to talk. Occasionally, I admit, he has to fight;
+but he need never move at the movies. Thus in the real village inn are
+the real village politics, while in the other are only the remote and
+unreal metropolitan politics. And those central city politics are not
+only cosmopolitan politics but corrupt politics. They corrupt everything
+that they reach, and this is the real point about many perplexing
+questions.
+
+For instance, so far as I am concerned, it is the whole point about
+feminism and the factory. It is very largely the point about feminism
+and many other callings, apparently more cultured than the factory, such
+as the law court and the political platform. When I see women so wildly
+anxious to tie themselves to all this machinery of the modern city my
+first feeling is not indignation, but that dark and ominous sort of pity
+with which we should see a crowd rushing to embark in a leaking ship
+under a lowering storm. When I see wives and mothers going in for
+business government I not only regard it as a bad business but as a
+bankrupt business. It seems to me very much as if the peasant women,
+just before the French Revolution, had insisted on being made duchesses
+or (as is quite as logical and likely) on being made dukes.
+
+It is as if those ragged women, instead of crying out for bread, had
+cried out for powder and patches. By the time they were wearing them
+they would be the only people wearing them. For powder and patches soon
+went out of fashion, but bread does not go out of fashion. In the same
+way, if women desert the family for the factory, they may find they have
+only done it for a deserted factory. It would have been very unwise of
+the lower orders to claim all the privileges of the higher orders in the
+last days of the French monarchy. It would have been very laborious to
+learn the science of heraldry or the tables of precedence when all such
+things were at once most complicated and most moribund. It would be
+tiresome to be taught all those tricks just when the whole bag of tricks
+was coming to an end. A French satirist might have written a fine
+apologue about Jacques Bonhomme coming up to Paris in his wooden shoes
+and demanding to be made Gold Stick in Waiting in the name of Liberty,
+Equality, and Fraternity; but I fear the stick in waiting would be
+waiting still.
+
+One of the first topics on which I heard conversation turning in America
+was that of a very interesting book called _Main Street_, which involves
+many of these questions of the modern industrial and the eternal
+feminine. It is simply the story, or perhaps rather the study than the
+story, of a young married woman in one of the multitudinous little towns
+on the great central plains of America; and of a sort of struggle
+between her own more restless culture and the provincial prosperity of
+her neighbours. There are a number of true and telling suggestions in
+the book, but the one touch which I found tingling in the memory of many
+readers was the last sentence, in which the master of the house, with
+unshaken simplicity, merely asks for the whereabouts of some domestic
+implement; I think it was a screw-driver. It seems to me a harmless
+request, but from the way people talked about it one might suppose he
+had asked for a screw-driver to screw down the wife in her coffin. And a
+great many advanced persons would tell us that wooden house in which
+she lived really was like a wooden coffin. But this appears to me to be
+taking a somewhat funereal view of the life of humanity.
+
+For, after all, on the face of it at any rate, this is merely the life
+of humanity, and even the life which all humanitarians have striven to
+give to humanity. Revolutionists have treated it not only as the normal
+but even as the ideal. Revolutionary wars have been waged to establish
+this; revolutionary heroes have fought, and revolutionary martyrs have
+died, only to build such a wooden house for such a worthy family. Men
+have taken the sword and perished by the sword in order that the poor
+gentleman might have liberty to look for his screw-driver. For there is
+here a fact about America that is almost entirely unknown in England.
+The English have not in the least realised the real strength of America.
+We in England hear a great deal, we hear far too much, about the
+economic energy of industrial America, about the money of Mr. Morgan, or
+the machinery of Mr. Edison. We never realise that while we in England
+suffer from the same sort of successes in capitalism and clockwork, we
+have not got what the Americans have got; something at least to balance
+it in the way of a free agriculture, a vast field of free farms dotted
+with small freeholders. For the reason I shall mention in a moment, they
+are not perhaps in the fullest and finest sense a peasantry. But they
+are in the practical and political sense a pure peasantry, in that their
+comparative equality is a true counterweight to the toppling injustice
+of the towns.
+
+And, even in places like that described as Main Street, that comparative
+equality can immediately be felt. The men may be provincials, but they
+are certainly citizens; they consult on a common basis. And I repeat
+that in this, after all, they do achieve what many prophets and
+righteous men have died to achieve. This plain village, fairly
+prosperous, fairly equal, untaxed by tyrants and untroubled by wars, is
+after all the place which reformers have regarded as their aim; whenever
+reformers have used their wits sufficiently to have any aim. The march
+to Utopia, the march to the Earthly Paradise, the march to the New
+Jerusalem, has been very largely the march to Main Street. And the
+latest modern sensation is a book written to show how wretched it is to
+live there.
+
+All this is true, and I think the lady might be more contented in her
+coffin, which is more comfortably furnished than most of the coffins
+where her fellow creatures live. Nevertheless, there is an answer to
+this, or at least a modification of it. There is a case for the lady and
+a case against the gentleman and the screw-driver. And when we have
+noted what it really is, we have noted the real disadvantage in a
+situation like that of modern America, and especially the Middle West.
+And with that we come back to the truth with which I started this
+speculation; the truth that few have yet realised, but of which I, for
+one, am more and more convinced--that industrialism is spreading because
+it is decaying; that only the dust and ashes of its dissolution are
+choking up the growth of natural things everywhere and turning the green
+world grey.
+
+In this relative agricultural equality the Americans of the Middle West
+are far in advance of the English of the twentieth century. It is not
+their fault if they are still some centuries behind the English of the
+twelfth century. But the defect by which they fall short of being a true
+peasantry is that they do not produce their own spiritual food, in the
+same sense as their own material food. They do not, like some
+peasantries, create other kinds of culture besides the kind called
+agriculture. Their culture comes from the great cities; and that is
+where all the evil comes from.
+
+If a man had gone across England in the Middle Ages, or even across
+Europe in more recent times, he would have found a culture which showed
+its vitality by its variety. We know the adventures of the three
+brothers in the old fairy tales who passed across the endless plain from
+city to city, and found one kingdom ruled by a wizard and another wasted
+by a dragon, one people living in castles of crystal and another sitting
+by fountains of wine. These are but legendary enlargements of the real
+adventures of a traveller passing from one patch of peasantry to
+another, and finding women wearing strange head-dresses and men singing
+new songs.
+
+A traveller in America would be somewhat surprised if he found the
+people in the city of St. Louis all wearing crowns and crusading armour
+in honour of their patron saint. He might even feel some faint surprise
+if he found all the citizens of Philadelphia clad in a composite
+costume, combining that of a Quaker with that of a Red Indian, in honour
+of the noble treaty of William Penn. Yet these are the sort of local and
+traditional things that would really be found giving variety to the
+valleys of mediaeval Europe. I myself felt a perfectly genuine and
+generous exhilaration of freedom and fresh enterprise in new places like
+Oklahoma. But you would hardly find in Oklahoma what was found in
+Oberammergau. What goes to Oklahoma is not the peasant play, but the
+cinema. And the objection to the cinema is not so much that it goes to
+Oklahoma as that it does not come from Oklahoma. In other words, these
+people have on the economic side a much closer approach than we have to
+economic freedom. It is not for us, who have allowed our land to be
+stolen by squires and then vulgarised by sham squires, to sneer at such
+colonists as merely crude and prosaic. They at least have really kept
+something of the simplicity and, therefore, the dignity of democracy;
+and that democracy may yet save their country even from the calamities
+of wealth and science.
+
+But, while these farmers do not need to become industrial in order to
+become industrious, they do tend to become industrial in so far as they
+become intellectual. Their culture, and to some great extent their
+creed, do come along the railroads from the great modern urban centres,
+and bring with them a blast of death and a reek of rotting things. It is
+that influence that alone prevents the Middle West from progressing
+towards the Middle Ages.
+
+For, after all, linked up in a hundred legends of the Middle Ages, may
+be found a symbolic pattern of hammers and nails and saws; and there is
+no reason why they should not have also sanctified screw-drivers. There
+is no reason why the screw-driver that seemed such a trifle to the
+author should not have been borne in triumph down Main Street like a
+sword of state, in some pageant of the Guild of St. Joseph of the
+Carpenters or St. Dunstan of the Smiths. It was the Catholic poetry and
+piety that filled common life with something that is lacking in the
+worthy and virile democracy of the West. Nor are Americans of
+intelligence so ignorant of this as some may suppose. There is an
+admirable society called the Mediaevalists in Chicago; whose name and
+address will strike many as suggesting a certain struggle of the soul
+against the environment. With the national heartiness they blazon their
+note-paper with heraldry and the hues of Gothic windows; with the
+national high spirits they assume the fancy dress of friars; but any one
+who should essay to laugh at them instead of with them would find out
+his mistake. For many of them do really know a great deal about
+mediaevalism; much more than I do, or most other men brought up on an
+island that is crowded with its cathedrals. Something of the same spirit
+may be seen in the beautiful new plans and buildings of Yale,
+deliberately modelled not on classical harmony but on Gothic
+irregularity and surprise. The grace and energy of the mediaeval
+architecture resurrected by a man like Mr. R. A. Cram of Boston has
+behind it not merely artistic but historical and ethical enthusiasm; an
+enthusiasm for the Catholic creed which made mediaeval civilisation.
+Even on the huge Puritan plains of the Middle West the influence strays
+in the strangest fashion. And it is notable that among the pessimistic
+epitaphs of the Spoon River Anthology, in that churchyard compared with
+which most churchyards are cheery, among the suicides and secret
+drinkers and monomaniacs and hideous hypocrites of that happy village,
+almost the only record of respect and a recognition of wider hopes is
+dedicated to the Catholic priest.
+
+But Main Street is Main Street in the main. Main Street is Modern Street
+in its multiplicity of mildly half-educated people; and all these
+historic things are a thousand miles from them. They have not heard the
+ancient noise either of arts or arms; the building of the cathedral or
+the marching of the crusade. But at least they have not deliberately
+slandered the crusade and defaced the cathedral. And if they have not
+produced the peasant arts, they can still produce the peasant crafts.
+They can sow and plough and reap and live by these everlasting things;
+nor shall the foundations of their state be moved. And the memory of
+those colossal fields, of those fruitful deserts, came back the more
+readily into my mind because I finished these reflections in the very
+heart of a modern industrial city, if it can be said to have a heart. It
+was in fact an English industrial city, but it struck me that it might
+very well be an American one. And it also struck me that we yield rather
+too easily to America the dusty palm of industrial enterprise, and feel
+far too little apprehension about greener and fresher vegetables. There
+is a story of an American who carefully studied all the sights of London
+or Rome or Paris, and came to the conclusion that 'it had nothing on
+Minneapolis.' It seems to me that Minneapolis has nothing on Manchester.
+There were the same grey vistas of shops full of rubber tyres and
+metallic appliances; a man felt that he might walk a day without seeing
+a blade of grass; the whole horizon was so infinite with efficiency. The
+factory chimneys might have been Pittsburg; the sky-signs might have
+been New York. One looked up in a sort of despair at the sky, not for a
+sky-sign but in a sense for a sign, for some sentence of significance
+and judgment; by the instinct that makes any man in such a scene seek
+for the only thing that has not been made by men. But even that was
+illogical, for it was night, and I could only expect to see the stars,
+which might have reminded me of Old Glory; but that was not the sign
+that oppressed me. All the ground was a wilderness of stone and all the
+buildings a forest of brick; I was far in the interior of a labyrinth of
+lifeless things. Only, looking up, between two black chimneys and a
+telegraph pole, I saw vast and far and faint, as the first men saw it,
+the silver pattern of the Plough.
+
+
+
+
+_The American Business Man_
+
+
+It is a commonplace that men are all agreed in using symbols, and all
+differ about the meaning of the symbols. It is obvious that a Russian
+republican might come to identify the eagle as a bird of empire and
+therefore a bird of prey. But when he ultimately escaped to the land of
+the free, he might find the same bird on the American coinage figuring
+as a bird of freedom. Doubtless, he might find many other things to
+surprise him in the land of the free, and many calculated to make him
+think that the bird, if not imperial, was at least rather imperious. But
+I am not discussing those exceptional details here. It is equally
+obvious that a Russian reactionary might cross the world with a vow of
+vengeance against the red flag. But that authoritarian might have some
+difficulties with the authorities, if he shot a man for using the red
+flag on the railway between Willesden and Clapham Junction.
+
+But, of course, the difficulty about symbols is generally much more
+subtle than in these simple cases. I have remarked elsewhere that the
+first thing which a traveller should write about is the thing which he
+has not read about. It may be a small or secondary thing, but it is a
+thing that he has seen and not merely expected to see.
+
+I gave the example of the great multitude of wooden houses in America;
+we might say of wooden towns and wooden cities. But after he has seen
+such things, his next duty is to see the meaning of them; and here a
+great deal of complication and controversy is possible. The thing
+probably does not mean what he first supposes it to mean on the face of
+it; but even on the face of it, it might mean many different and even
+opposite things.
+
+For instance, a wooden house might suggest an almost savage solitude; a
+rude shanty put together by a pioneer in a forest; or it might mean a
+very recent and rapid solution of the housing problem, conducted cheaply
+and therefore on a very large scale. A wooden house might suggest the
+very newest thing in America or one of the very oldest things in
+England. It might mean a grey ruin at Stratford or a white exhibition at
+Earl's Court.
+
+It is when we come to this interpretation of international symbols that
+we make most of the international mistakes. Without the smallest error
+of detail, I will promise to prove that Oriental women are independent
+because they wear trousers, or Oriental men subject because they wear
+skirts. Merely to apply it to this case, I will take the example of two
+very commonplace and trivial objects of modern life--a walking stick and
+a fur coat.
+
+As it happened, I travelled about America with two sticks, like a
+Japanese nobleman with his two swords. I fear the simile is too stately.
+I bore more resemblance to a cripple with two crutches or a highly
+ineffectual version of the devil on two sticks. I carried them both
+because I valued them both, and did not wish to risk losing either of
+them in my erratic travels. One is a very plain grey stick from the
+woods of Buckinghamshire, but as I took it with me to Palestine it
+partakes of the character of a pilgrim's staff. When I can say that I
+have taken the same stick to Jerusalem and to Chicago, I think the stick
+and I may both have a rest. The other, which I value even more, was
+given me by the Knights of Columbus at Yale, and I wish I could think
+that their chivalric title allowed me to regard it as a sword.
+
+Now, I do not know whether the Americans I met, struck by the fastidious
+foppery of my dress and appearance, concluded that it is the custom of
+elegant English dandies to carry two walking sticks. But I do know that
+it is much less common among Americans than among Englishmen to carry
+even one. The point, however, is not merely that more sticks are carried
+by Englishmen than by Americans; it is that the sticks which are carried
+by Americans stand for something entirely different.
+
+In America a stick is commonly called a cane, and it has about it
+something of the atmosphere which the poet described as the nice conduct
+of the clouded cane. It would be an exaggeration to say that when the
+citizens of the United States see a man carrying a light stick, they
+deduce that if he does that he does nothing else. But there is about it
+a faint flavour of luxury and lounging, and most of the energetic
+citizens of this energetic society avoid it by instinct.
+
+Now, in an Englishman like myself, carrying a stick may imply lounging,
+but it does not imply luxury, and I can say with some firmness that it
+does not imply dandyism. In a great many Englishmen it means the very
+opposite even of lounging. By one of those fantastic paradoxes which
+are the mystery of nationality, a walking stick often actually means
+walking. It frequently suggests the very reverse of the beau with his
+clouded cane; it does not suggest a town type, but rather specially a
+country type. It rather implies the kind of Englishman who tramps about
+in lanes and meadows and knocks the tops off thistles. It suggests the
+sort of man who has carried the stick through his native woods, and
+perhaps even cut it in his native woods.
+
+There are plenty of these vigorous loungers, no doubt, in the rural
+parts of America, but the idea of a walking stick would not especially
+suggest them to Americans; it would not call up such figures like a
+fairy wand. It would be easy to trace back the difference to many
+English origins, possibly to aristocratic origins, to the idea of the
+old squire, a man vigorous and even rustic, but trained to hold a
+useless staff rather than a useful tool. It might be suggested that
+American citizens do at least so far love freedom as to like to have
+their hands free. It might be suggested, on the other hand, that they
+keep their hands for the handles of many machines. And that the hand on
+a handle is less free than the hand on a stick or even a tool. But these
+again are controversial questions and I am only noting a fact.
+
+If an Englishman wished to imagine more or less exactly what the
+impression is, and how misleading it is, he could find something like a
+parallel in what he himself feels about a fur coat. When I first found
+myself among the crowds on the main floor of a New York hotel, my rather
+exaggerated impression of the luxury of the place was largely produced
+by the number of men in fur coats, and what we should consider rather
+ostentatious fur coats, with all the fur outside.
+
+Now an Englishman has a number of atmospheric but largely accidental
+associations in connection with a fur coat. I will not say that he
+thinks a man in a fur coat must be a wealthy and wicked man; but I do
+say that in his own ideal and perfect vision a wealthy and wicked man
+would wear a fur coat. Thus I had the sensation of standing in a surging
+mob of American millionaires, or even African millionaires; for the
+millionaires of Chicago must be like the Knights of the Round Table
+compared with the millionaires of Johannesburg.
+
+But, as a matter of fact, the man in the fur coat was not even an
+American millionaire, but simply an American. It did not signify luxury,
+but rather necessity, and even a harsh and almost heroic necessity.
+Orson probably wore a fur coat; and he was brought up by bears, but not
+the bears of Wall Street. Eskimos are generally represented as a furry
+folk; but they are not necessarily engaged in delicate financial
+operations, even in the typical and appropriate occupation called
+freezing out. And if the American is not exactly an arctic traveller
+rushing from pole to pole, at least he is often literally fleeing from
+ice to ice. He has to make a very extreme distinction between outdoor
+and indoor clothing. He has to live in an icehouse outside and a
+hothouse inside; so hot that he may be said to construct an icehouse
+inside that. He turns himself into an icehouse and warms himself against
+the cold until he is warm enough to eat ices. But the point is that the
+same coat of fur which in England would indicate the sybarite life may
+here very well indicate the strenuous life; just as the same walking
+stick which would here suggest a lounger would in England suggest a
+plodder and almost a pilgrim.
+
+And these two trifles are types which I should like to put, by way of
+proviso and apology, at the very beginning of any attempt at a record of
+any impressions of a foreign society. They serve merely to illustrate
+the most important impression of all, the impression of how false all
+impressions may be. I suspect that most of the very false impressions
+have come from the careful record of very true facts. They have come
+from the fatal power of observing the facts without being able to
+observe the truth. They came from seeing the symbol with the most vivid
+clarity and being blind to all that it symbolises. It is as if a man who
+knew no Greek should imagine that he could read a Greek inscription
+because he took the Greek R for an English P or the Greek long E for an
+English H. I do not mention this merely as a criticism on other people's
+impressions of America, but as a criticism on my own. I wish it to be
+understood that I am well aware that all my views are subject to this
+sort of potential criticism, and that even when I am certain of the
+facts I do not profess to be certain of the deductions.
+
+In this chapter I hope to point out how a misunderstanding of this kind
+affects the common impression, not altogether unfounded, that the
+Americans talk about dollars. But for the moment I am merely anxious to
+avoid a similar misunderstanding when I talk about Americans. About the
+dogmas of democracy, about the right of a people to its own symbols,
+whether they be coins or customs, I am convinced, and no longer to be
+shaken. But about the meaning of those symbols, in silver or other
+substances, I am always open to correction. That error is the price we
+pay for the great glory of nationality. And in this sense I am quite
+ready, at the start, to warn my own readers against my own opinions.
+
+The fact without the truth is futile; indeed the fact without the truth
+is false. I have already noted that this is especially true touching our
+observations of a strange country; and it is certainly true touching one
+small fact which has swelled into a large fable. I mean the fable about
+America commonly summed up in the phrase about the Almighty Dollar. I do
+not think the dollar is almighty in America; I fancy many things are
+mightier, including many ideals and some rather insane ideals. But I
+think it might be maintained that the dollar has another of the
+attributes of deity. If it is not omnipotent it is in a sense
+omnipresent. Whatever Americans think about dollars, it is, I think,
+relatively true that they talk about dollars. If a mere mechanical
+record could be taken by the modern machinery of dictaphones and
+stenography, I do not think it probable that the mere word 'dollars'
+would occur more often in any given number of American conversations
+than the mere word 'pounds' or 'shillings' in a similar number of
+English conversations. And these statistics, like nearly all statistics,
+would be utterly useless and even fundamentally false. It is as if we
+should calculate that the word 'elephant' had been mentioned a certain
+number of times in a particular London street, or so many times more
+often than the word 'thunderbolt' had been used in Stoke Poges.
+Doubtless there are statisticians capable of carefully collecting those
+statistics also; and doubtless there are scientific social reformers
+capable of legislating on the basis of them. They would probably argue
+from the elephantine imagery of the London street that such and such a
+percentage of the householders were megalomaniacs and required medical
+care and police coercion. And doubtless their calculations, like nearly
+all such calculations, would leave out the only important point; as that
+the street was in the immediate neighbourhood of the Zoo, or was yet
+more happily situated under the benignant shadow of the Elephant and
+Castle. And in the same way the mechanical calculation about the mention
+of dollars is entirely useless unless we have some moral understanding
+of why they are mentioned. It certainly does not mean merely a love of
+money; and if it did, a love of money may mean a great many very
+different and even contrary things. The love of money is very different
+in a peasant or in a pirate, in a miser or in a gambler, in a great
+financier or in a man doing some practical and productive work. Now this
+difference in the conversation of American and English business men
+arises, I think, from certain much deeper things in the American which
+are generally not understood by the Englishman. It also arises from much
+deeper things in the Englishman, of which the Englishman is even more
+ignorant.
+
+To begin with, I fancy that the American, quite apart from any love of
+money, has a great love of measurement. He will mention the exact size
+or weight of things, in a way which appears to us as irrelevant. It is
+as if we were to say that a man came to see us carrying three feet of
+walking stick and four inches of cigar. It is so in cases that have no
+possible connection with any avarice or greed for gain. An American will
+praise the prodigal generosity of some other man in giving up his own
+estate for the good of the poor. But he will generally say that the
+philanthropist gave them a 200-acre park, where an Englishman would
+think it quite sufficient to say that he gave them a park. There is
+something about this precision which seems suitable to the American
+atmosphere; to the hard sunlight, and the cloudless skies, and the
+glittering detail of the architecture and the landscape; just as the
+vaguer English version is consonant to our mistier and more
+impressionist scenery. It is also connected perhaps with something more
+boyish about the younger civilisation; and corresponds to the passionate
+particularity with which a boy will distinguish the uniforms of
+regiments, the rigs of ships, or even the colours of tram tickets. It is
+a certain godlike appetite for things, as distinct from thoughts.
+
+But there is also, of course, a much deeper cause of the difference; and
+it can easily be deduced by noting the real nature of the difference
+itself. When two business men in a train are talking about dollars I am
+not so foolish as to expect them to be talking about the philosophy of
+St. Thomas Aquinas. But if they were two English business men I should
+not expect them to be talking about business. Probably it would be about
+some sport; and most probably some sport in which they themselves never
+dreamed of indulging. The approximate difference is that the American
+talks about his work and the Englishman about his holidays. His ideal is
+not labour but leisure. Like every other national characteristic, this
+is not primarily a point for praise or blame; in essence it involves
+neither and in effect it involves both. It is certainly connected with
+that snobbishness which is the great sin of English society. The
+Englishman does love to conceive himself as a sort of country gentleman;
+and his castles in the air are all castles in Scotland rather than in
+Spain. For, as an ideal, a Scotch castle is as English as a Welsh
+rarebit or an Irish stew. And if he talks less about money I fear it is
+sometimes because in one sense he thinks more of it. Money is a mystery
+in the old and literal sense of something too sacred for speech. Gold is
+a god; and like the god of some agnostics has no name and is worshipped
+only in his works. It is true in a sense that the English gentleman
+wishes to have enough money to be able to forget it. But it may be
+questioned whether he does entirely forget it. As against this weakness
+the American has succeeded, at the price of a great deal of crudity and
+clatter, in making general a very real respect for work. He has partly
+disenchanted the dangerous glamour of the gentleman, and in that sense
+has achieved some degree of democracy; which is the most difficult
+achievement in the world.
+
+On the other hand, there is a good side to the Englishman's day-dream of
+leisure, and one which the American spirit tends to miss. It may be
+expressed in the word 'holiday' or still better in the word 'hobby.' The
+Englishman, in his character of Robin Hood, really has got two strings
+to his bow. Indeed the Englishman really is well represented by Robin
+Hood; for there is always something about him that may literally be
+called outlawed, in the sense of being extra-legal or outside the rules.
+A Frenchman said of Browning that his centre was not in the middle; and
+it may be said of many an Englishman that his heart is not where his
+treasure is. Browning expressed a very English sentiment when he said:--
+
+
+ I like to know a butcher paints,
+ A baker rhymes for his pursuit,
+ Candlestick-maker much acquaints
+ His soul with song, or haply mute
+ Blows out his brains upon the flute.
+
+
+Stevenson touched on the same insular sentiment when he said that many
+men he knew, who were meat-salesmen to the outward eye, might in the
+life of contemplation sit with the saints. Now the extraordinary
+achievement of the American meat-salesman is that his poetic enthusiasm
+can really be for meat sales; not for money but for meat. An American
+commercial traveller asked me, with a religious fire in his eyes,
+whether I did not think that salesmanship could be an art. In England
+there are many salesmen who are sincerely fond of art; but seldom of the
+art of salesmanship. Art is with them a hobby; a thing of leisure and
+liberty. That is why the English traveller talks, if not of art, then of
+sport. That is why the two city men in the London train, if they are not
+talking about golf, may be talking about gardening. If they are not
+talking about dollars, or the equivalent of dollars, the reason lies
+much deeper than any superficial praise or blame touching the desire for
+wealth. In the English case, at least, it lies very deep in the English
+spirit. Many of the greatest English things have had this lighter and
+looser character of a hobby or a holiday experiment. Even a masterpiece
+has often been a by-product. The works of Shakespeare come out so
+casually that they can be attributed to the most improbable people; even
+to Bacon. The sonnets of Shakespeare are picked up afterwards as if out
+of a wastepaper basket. The immortality of Dr. Johnson does not rest on
+the written leaves he collected, but entirely on the words he wasted,
+the words he scattered to the winds. So great a thing as Pickwick is
+almost a kind of accident; it began as something secondary and grew into
+something primary and pre-eminent. It began with mere words written to
+illustrate somebody else's pictures; and swelled like an epic expanded
+from an epigram. It might almost be said that in the case of Pickwick
+the author began as the servant of the artist. But, as in the same story
+of Pickwick, the servant became greater than the master. This
+incalculable and accidental quality, like all national qualities, has
+its strength and weakness; but it does represent a certain reserve fund
+of interests in the Englishman's life; and distinguishes him from the
+other extreme type, of the millionaire who works till he drops, or who
+drops because he stops working. It is the great achievement of American
+civilisation that in that country it really is not cant to talk about
+the dignity of labour. There is something that might almost be called
+the sanctity of labour; but it is subject to the profound law that when
+anything less than the highest becomes a sanctity, it tends also to
+become a superstition. When the candlestick-maker does not blow out his
+brains upon the flute there is always a danger that he may blow them out
+somewhere else, owing to depressed conditions in the candlestick market.
+
+Now certainly one of the first impressions of America, or at any rate
+of New York, which is by no means the same thing as America, is that of
+a sort of mob of business men, behaving in many ways in a fashion very
+different from that of the swarms of London city men who go up every day
+to the city. They sit about in groups with Red-Indian gravity, as if
+passing the pipe of peace; though, in fact, most of them are smoking
+cigars and some of them are eating cigars. The latter strikes me as one
+of the most peculiar of transatlantic tastes, more peculiar than that of
+chewing gum. A man will sit for hours consuming a cigar as if it were a
+sugar-stick; but I should imagine it to be a very disagreeable
+sugar-stick. Why he attempts to enjoy a cigar without lighting it I do
+not know; whether it is a more economical way of carrying a mere symbol
+of commercial conversation; or whether something of the same queer
+outlandish morality that draws such a distinction between beer and
+ginger beer draws an equally ethical distinction between touching
+tobacco and lighting it. For the rest, it would be easy to make a merely
+external sketch full of things equally strange; for this can always be
+done in a strange country. I allow for the fact of all foreigners
+looking alike; but I fancy that all those hard-featured faces, with
+spectacles and shaven jaws, do look rather alike, because they all like
+to make their faces hard. And with the mention of their mental attitude
+we realise the futility of any such external sketch. Unless we can see
+that these are something more than men smoking cigars and talking about
+dollars we had much better not see them at all.
+
+It is customary to condemn the American as a materialist because of his
+worship of success. But indeed this very worship, like any worship,
+even devil-worship, proves him rather a mystic than a materialist. The
+Frenchman who retires from business when he has money enough to drink
+his wine and eat his omelette in peace might much more plausibly be
+called a materialist by those who do not prefer to call him a man of
+sense. But Americans do worship success in the abstract, as a sort of
+ideal vision. They follow success rather than money; they follow money
+rather than meat and drink. If their national life in one sense is a
+perpetual game of poker, they are playing excitedly for chips or
+counters as well as for coins. And by the ultimate test of material
+enjoyment, like the enjoyment of an omelette, even a coin is itself a
+counter. The Yankee cannot eat chips as the Frenchman can eat chipped
+potatoes; but neither can he swallow red cents as the Frenchman swallows
+red wine. Thus when people say of a Yankee that he worships the dollar,
+they pay a compliment to his fine spirituality more true and delicate
+than they imagine. The dollar is an idol because it is an image; but it
+is an image of success and not of enjoyment.
+
+That this romance is also a religion is shown in the fact that there is
+a queer sort of morality attached to it. The nearest parallel to it is
+something like the sense of honour in the old duelling days. There is
+not a material but a distinctly moral savour about the implied
+obligation to collect dollars or to collect chips. We hear too much in
+England of the phrase about 'making good'; for no sensible Englishman
+favours the needless interlarding of English with scraps of foreign
+languages. But though it means nothing in English, it means something
+very particular in American. There is a fine shade of distinction
+between succeeding and making good, precisely because there must always
+be a sort of ethical echo in the word good. America does vaguely feel a
+man making good as something analogous to a man being good or a man
+doing good. It is connected with his serious self-respect and his sense
+of being worthy of those he loves. Nor is this curious crude idealism
+wholly insincere even when it drives him to what some of us would call
+stealing; any more than the duellist's honour was insincere when it
+drove him to what some would call murder. A very clever American play
+which I once saw acted contained a complete working model of this
+morality. A girl was loyal to, but distressed by, her engagement to a
+young man on whom there was a sort of cloud of humiliation. The
+atmosphere was exactly what it would have been in England if he had been
+accused of cowardice or card-sharping. And there was nothing whatever
+the matter with the poor young man except that some rotten mine or other
+in Arizona had not 'made good.' Now in England we should either be below
+or above that ideal of good. If we were snobs, we should be content to
+know that he was a gentleman of good connections, perhaps too much
+accustomed to private means to be expected to be businesslike. If we
+were somewhat larger-minded people, we should know that he might be as
+wise as Socrates and as splendid as Bayard and yet be unfitted, perhaps
+one should say therefore be unfitted, for the dismal and dirty gambling
+of modern commerce. But whether we were snobbish enough to admire him
+for being an idler, or chivalrous enough to admire him for being an
+outlaw, in neither case should we ever really and in our hearts despise
+him for being a failure. For it is this inner verdict of instinctive
+idealism that is the point at issue. Of course there is nothing new, or
+peculiar to the new world, about a man's engagement practically failing
+through his financial failure. An English girl might easily drop a man
+because he was poor, or she might stick to him faithfully and defiantly
+although he was poor. The point is that this girl was faithful but she
+was not defiant; that is, she was not proud. The whole psychology of the
+situation was that she shared the weird worldly idealism of her family,
+and it was wounded as her patriotism would have been wounded if he had
+betrayed his country. To do them justice, there was nothing to show that
+they would have had any real respect for a royal duke who had inherited
+millions; what the simple barbarians wanted was a man who could 'make
+good.' That the process of making good would probably drag him through
+the mire of everything bad, that he would make good by bluffing, lying,
+swindling, and grinding the faces of the poor, did not seem to trouble
+them in the least. Against this fanaticism there is this shadow of truth
+even in the fiction of aristocracy; that a gentleman may at least be
+allowed to be good without being bothered to make it.
+
+Another objection to the phrase about the almighty dollar is that it is
+an almighty phrase, and therefore an almighty nuisance. I mean that it
+is made to explain everything, and to explain everything much too well;
+that is, much too easily. It does not really help people to understand a
+foreign country; but it gives them the fatal illusion that they do
+understand it. Dollars stood for America as frogs stood for France;
+because it was necessary to connect particular foreigners with
+something, or it would be so easy to confuse a Moor with a Montenegrin
+or a Russian with a Red Indian. The only cure for this sort of satisfied
+familiarity is the shock of something really unfamiliar. When people can
+see nothing at all in American democracy except a Yankee running after a
+dollar, then the only thing to do is to trip them up as they run after
+the Yankee, or run away with their notion of the Yankee, by the obstacle
+of certain odd and obstinate facts that have no relation to that notion.
+And, as a matter of fact, there are a number of such obstacles to any
+such generalisation; a number of notable facts that have to be
+reconciled somehow to our previous notions. It does not matter for this
+purpose whether the facts are favourable or unfavourable, or whether the
+qualities are merits or defects; especially as we do not even understand
+them sufficiently to say which they are. The point is that we are
+brought to a pause, and compelled to attempt to understand them rather
+better than we do. We have found the one thing that we did not expect;
+and therefore the one thing that we cannot explain. And we are moved to
+an effort, probably an unsuccessful effort, to explain it.
+
+For instance, Americans are very unpunctual. That is the last thing that
+a critic expects who comes to condemn them for hustling and haggling and
+vulgar ambition. But it is almost the first fact that strikes the
+spectator on the spot. The chief difference between the humdrum English
+business man and the hustling American business man is that the hustling
+American business man is always late. Of course there is a great deal of
+difference between coming late and coming too late. But I noticed the
+fashion first in connection with my own lectures; touching which I
+could heartily recommend the habit of coming too late. I could easily
+understand a crowd of commercial Americans not coming to my lectures at
+all; but there was something odd about their coming in a crowd, and the
+crowd being expected to turn up some time after the appointed hour. The
+managers of these lectures (I continue to call them lectures out of
+courtesy to myself) often explained to me that it was quite useless to
+begin properly until about half an hour after time. Often people were
+still coming in three-quarters of an hour or even an hour after time.
+Not that I objected to that, as some lecturers are said to do; it seemed
+to me an agreeable break in the monotony; but as a characteristic of a
+people mostly engaged in practical business, it struck me as curious and
+interesting. I have grown accustomed to being the most unbusinesslike
+person in any given company; and it gave me a sort of dizzy exaltation
+to find I was not the most unpunctual person in that company. I was
+afterwards told by many Americans that my impression was quite correct;
+that American unpunctuality was really very prevalent, and extended to
+much more important things. But at least I was not content to lump this
+along with all sorts of contrary things that I did not happen to like,
+and call it America. I am not sure of what it really means, but I rather
+fancy that though it may seem the very reverse of the hustling, it has
+the same origin as the hustling. The American is not punctual because he
+is not punctilious. He is impulsive, and has an impulse to stay as well
+as an impulse to go. For, after all, punctuality belongs to the same
+order of ideas as punctuation; and there is no punctuation in
+telegrams. The order of clocks and set hours which English business has
+always observed is a good thing in its own way; indeed I think that in a
+larger sense it is better than the other way. But it is better because
+it is a protection against hustling, not a promotion of it. In other
+words, it is better because it is more civilised; as a great Venetian
+merchant prince clad in cloth of gold was more civilised; or an old
+English merchant drinking port in an oak-panelled room was more
+civilised; or a little French shopkeeper shutting up his shop to play
+dominoes is more civilised. And the reason is that the American has the
+romance of business and is monomaniac, while the Frenchman has the
+romance of life and is sane. But the romance of business really is a
+romance, and the Americans are really romantic about it. And that
+romance, though it revolves round pork or petrol, is really like a
+love-affair in this; that it involves not only rushing but also
+lingering.
+
+The American is too busy to have business habits. He is also too much in
+earnest to have business rules. If we wish to understand him, we must
+compare him not with the French shopkeeper when he plays dominoes, but
+with the same French shopkeeper when he works the guns or mans the
+trenches as a conscript soldier. Everybody used to the punctilious
+Prussian standard of uniform and parade has noticed the roughness and
+apparent laxity of the French soldier, the looseness of his clothes, the
+unsightliness of his heavy knapsack, in short his inferiority in every
+detail of the business of war except fighting. There he is much too
+swift to be smart. He is much too practical to be precise. By a strange
+illusion which can lift pork-packing almost to the level of patriotism,
+the American has the same free rhythm in his romance of business. He
+varies his conduct not to suit the clock but to suit the case. He gives
+more time to more important and less time to less important things; and
+he makes up his time-table as he goes along. Suppose he has three
+appointments; the first, let us say, is some mere trifle of erecting a
+tower twenty storeys high and exhibiting a sky-sign on the top of it;
+the second is a business discussion about the possibility of printing
+advertisements of soft drinks on the table-napkins at a restaurant; the
+third is attending a conference to decide how the populace can be
+prevented from using chewing-gum and the manufacturers can still manage
+to sell it. He will be content merely to glance at the sky-sign as he
+goes by in a trolley-car or an automobile; he will then settle down to
+the discussion with his partner about the table-napkins, each speaker
+indulging in long monologues in turn; a peculiarity of much American
+conversation. Now if in the middle of one of these monologues, he
+suddenly thinks that the vacant space of the waiter's shirt-front might
+also be utilised to advertise the Gee Whiz Ginger Champagne, he will
+instantly follow up the new idea in all its aspects and possibilities,
+in an even longer monologue; and will never think of looking at his
+watch while he is rapturously looking at his waiter. The consequence is
+that he will come late into the great social movement against
+chewing-gum, where an Englishman would probably have arrived at the
+proper hour. But though the Englishman's conduct is more proper, it need
+not be in all respects more practical. The Englishman's rules are better
+for the business of life, but not necessarily for the life of business.
+And it is true that for many of these Americans business is the
+business of life. It is really also, as I have said, the romance of
+life. We shall admire or deplore this spirit, accordingly as we are glad
+to see trade irradiated with so much poetry, or sorry to see so much
+poetry wasted on trade. But it does make many people happy, like any
+other hobby; and one is disposed to add that it does fill their
+imaginations like any other delusion. For the true criticism of all this
+commercial romance would involve a criticism of this historic phase of
+commerce. These people are building on the sand, though it shines like
+gold, and for them like fairy gold; but the world will remember the
+legend about fairy gold. Half the financial operations they follow deal
+with things that do not even exist; for in that sense all finance is a
+fairy tale. Many of them are buying and selling things that do nothing
+but harm; but it does them good to buy and sell them. The claim of the
+romantic salesman is better justified than he realises. Business really
+is romance; for it is not reality.
+
+There is one real advantage that America has over England, largely due
+to its livelier and more impressionable ideal. America does not think
+that stupidity is practical. It does not think that ideas are merely
+destructive things. It does not think that a genius is only a person to
+be told to go away and blow his brains out; rather it would open all its
+machinery to the genius and beg him to blow his brains in. It might
+attempt to use a natural force like Blake or Shelley for very ignoble
+purposes; it would be quite capable of asking Blake to take his tiger
+and his golden lions round as a sort of Barnum's Show, or Shelley to
+hang his stars and haloed clouds among the lights of Broadway. But it
+would not assume that a natural force is useless, any more than that
+Niagara is useless. And there is a very definite distinction here
+touching the intelligence of the trader, whatever we may think of either
+course touching the intelligence of the artist. It is one thing that
+Apollo should be employed by Admetus, although he is a god. It is quite
+another thing that Apollo should always be sacked by Admetus, because he
+is a god. Now in England, largely owing to the accident of a rivalry and
+therefore a comparison with France, there arose about the end of the
+eighteenth century an extraordinary notion that there was some sort of
+connection between dullness and success. What the Americans call a
+bonehead became what the English call a hard-headed man. The merchants
+of London evinced their contempt for the fantastic logicians of Paris by
+living in a permanent state of terror lest somebody should set the
+Thames on fire. In this as in much else it is much easier to understand
+the Americans if we connect them with the French who were their allies
+than with the English who were their enemies. There are a great many
+Franco-American resemblances which the practical Anglo-Saxons are of
+course too hard-headed (or boneheaded) to see. American history is
+haunted with the shadow of the Plebiscitary President; they have a
+tradition of classical architecture for public buildings. Their cities
+are planned upon the squares of Paris and not upon the labyrinth of
+London. They call their cities Corinth and Syracuse, as the French
+called their citizens Epaminondas and Timoleon. Their soldiers wore the
+French kepi; and they make coffee admirably, and do not make tea at all.
+But of all the French elements in America the most French is this real
+practicality. They know that at certain times the most businesslike of
+all qualities is 'l'audace, et encore de l'audace, et toujours de
+l'audace.' The publisher may induce the poet to do a pot-boiler; but the
+publisher would cheerfully allow the poet to set the Mississippi on
+fire, if it would boil his particular pot. It is not so much that
+Englishmen are stupid as that they are afraid of being clever; and it is
+not so much that Americans are clever as that they do not try to be any
+stupider than they are. The fire of French logic has burnt that out of
+America as it has burnt it out of Europe, and of almost every place
+except England. This is one of the few points on which English
+insularity really is a disadvantage. It is the fatal notion that the
+only sort of commonsense is to be found in compromise, and that the only
+sort of compromise is to be found in confusion. This must be clearly
+distinguished from the commonplace about the utilitarian world not
+rising to the invisible values of genius. Under this philosophy the
+utilitarian does not see the utility of genius, even when it is quite
+visible. He does not see it, not because he is a utilitarian, but
+because he is an idealist whose ideal is dullness. For some time the
+English aspired to be stupid, prayed and hoped with soaring spiritual
+ambition to be stupid. But with all their worship of success, they did
+not succeed in being stupid. The natural talents of a great and
+traditional nation were always breaking out in spite of them. In spite
+of the merchants of London, Turner did set the Thames on fire. In spite
+of our repeatedly explained preference for realism to romance, Europe
+persisted in resounding with the name of Byron. And just when we had
+made it perfectly clear to the French that we despised all their
+flamboyant tricks, that we were a plain prosaic people and there was no
+fantastic glory or chivalry about us, the very shaft we sent against
+them shone with the name of Nelson, a shooting and a falling star.
+
+
+
+
+_Presidents and Problems_
+
+
+All good Americans wish to fight the representatives they have chosen.
+All good Englishmen wish to forget the representatives they have chosen.
+This difference, deep and perhaps ineradicable in the temperaments of
+the two peoples, explains a thousand things in their literature and
+their laws. The American national poet praised his people for their
+readiness 'to _rise_ against the never-ending audacity of elected
+persons.' The English national anthem is content to say heartily, but
+almost hastily, 'Confound their politics,' and then more cheerfully, as
+if changing the subject, 'God Save the King.' For this is especially the
+secret of the monarch or chief magistrate in the two countries. They arm
+the President with the powers of a King, that he may be a nuisance in
+politics. We deprive the King even of the powers of a President, lest he
+should remind us of a politician. We desire to forget the never-ending
+audacity of elected persons; and with us therefore it really never does
+end. That is the practical objection to our own habit of changing the
+subject, instead of changing the ministry. The King, as the Irish wit
+observed, is not a subject; but in that sense the English crowned head
+is not a King. He is a popular figure intended to remind us of the
+England that politicians do not remember; the England of horses and
+ships and gardens and good fellowship. The Americans have no such
+purely social symbol; and it is rather the root than the result of this
+that their social luxury, and especially their sport, are a little
+lacking in humanity and humour. It is the American, much more than the
+Englishman, who takes his pleasures sadly, not to say savagely.
+
+The genuine popularity of constitutional monarchs, in parliamentary
+countries, can be explained by any practical example. Let us suppose
+that great social reform, The Compulsory Haircutting Act, has just begun
+to be enforced. The Compulsory Haircutting Act, as every good citizen
+knows, is a statute which permits any person to grow his hair to any
+length, in any wild or wonderful shape, so long as he is registered with
+a hairdresser who charges a shilling. But it imposes a universal
+close-shave (like that which is found so hygienic during a curative
+detention at Dartmoor) on all who are registered only with a barber who
+charges threepence. Thus, while the ornamental classes can continue to
+ornament the street with Piccadilly weepers or chin-beards if they
+choose, the working classes demonstrate the care with which the State
+protects them by going about in a fresher, cooler, and cleaner
+condition; a condition which has the further advantage of revealing at a
+glance that outline of the criminal skull, which is so common among
+them. The Compulsory Haircutting Act is thus in every way a compact and
+convenient example of all our current laws about education, sport,
+liquor and liberty in general. Well, the law has passed and the masses,
+insensible to its scientific value, are still murmuring against it. The
+ignorant peasant maiden is averse to so extreme a fashion of bobbing her
+hair; and does not see how she can even be a flapper with nothing to
+flap. Her father, his mind already poisoned by Bolshevists, begins to
+wonder who the devil does these things, and why. In proportion as he
+knows the world of to-day, he guesses that the real origin may be quite
+obscure, or the real motive quite corrupt. The pressure may have come
+from anybody who has gained power or money anyhow. It may come from the
+foreign millionaire who owns all the expensive hairdressing saloons; it
+may come from some swindler in the cutlery trade who has contracted to
+sell a million bad razors. Hence the poor man looks about him with
+suspicion in the street; knowing that the lowest sneak or the loudest
+snob he sees may be directing the government of his country. Anybody may
+have to do with politics; and this sort of thing is politics. Suddenly
+he catches sight of a crowd, stops, and begins wildly to cheer a
+carriage that is passing. The carriage contains the one person who has
+certainly not originated any great scientific reform. He is the only
+person in the commonwealth who is not allowed to cut off other people's
+hair, or to take away other people's liberties. He at least is kept out
+of politics; and men hold him up as they did an unspotted victim to
+appease the wrath of the gods. He is their King, and the only man they
+know is not their ruler. We need not be surprised that he is popular,
+knowing how they are ruled.
+
+The popularity of a President in America is exactly the opposite. The
+American Republic is the last mediaeval monarchy. It is intended that
+the President shall rule, and take all the risks of ruling. If the hair
+is cut he is the haircutter, the magistrate that bears not the razor in
+vain. All the popular Presidents, Jackson and Lincoln and Roosevelt,
+have acted as democratic despots, but emphatically not as
+constitutional monarchs. In short, the names have become curiously
+interchanged; and as a historical reality it is the President who ought
+to be called a King.
+
+But it is not only true that the President could correctly be called a
+King. It is also true that the King might correctly be called a
+President. We could hardly find a more exact description of him than to
+call him a President. What is expected in modern times of a modern
+constitutional monarch is emphatically that he should preside. We expect
+him to take the throne exactly as if he were taking the chair. The
+chairman does not move the motion or resolution, far less vote it; he is
+not supposed even to favour it. He is expected to please everybody by
+favouring nobody. The primary essentials of a President or Chairman are
+that he should be treated with ceremonial respect, that he should be
+popular in his personality and yet impersonal in his opinions, and that
+he should actually be a link between all the other persons by being
+different from all of them. This is exactly what is demanded of the
+constitutional monarch in modern times. It is exactly the opposite to
+the American position; in which the President does not preside at all.
+He moves; and the thing he moves may truly be called a motion; for the
+national idea is perpetual motion. Technically it is called a message;
+and might often actually be called a menace. Thus we may truly say that
+the King presides and the President reigns. Some would prefer to say
+that the President rules; and some Senators and members of Congress
+would prefer to say that he rebels. But there is no doubt that he moves;
+he does not take the chair or even the stool, but rather the stump.
+
+Some people seem to suppose that the fall of President Wilson was a
+denial of this almost despotic ideal in America. As a matter of fact it
+was the strongest possible assertion of it. The idea is that the
+President shall take responsibility and risk; and responsibility means
+being blamed, and risk means the risk of being blamed. The theory is
+that things are done by the President; and if things go wrong, or are
+alleged to go wrong, it is the fault of the President. This does not
+invalidate, but rather ratifies the comparison with true monarchs such
+as the mediaeval monarchs. Constitutional princes are seldom deposed;
+but despots were often deposed. In the simpler races of sunnier lands,
+such as Turkey, they were commonly assassinated. Even in our own history
+a King often received the same respectful tribute to the responsibility
+and reality of his office. But King John was attacked because he was
+strong, not because he was weak. Richard the Second lost the crown
+because the crown was a trophy, not because it was a trifle. And
+President Wilson was deposed because he had used a power which is such,
+in its nature, that a man must use it at the risk of deposition. As a
+matter of fact, of course, it is easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+unpopularity, and still more easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+failure. There are a great many people in America who justify and
+applaud him; and what is yet more interesting, who justify him not on
+pacifist and idealistic, but on patriotic and even military grounds. It
+is especially insisted by some that his demonstration, which seemed
+futile as a threat against Mexico, was a very far-sighted preparation
+for the threat against Prussia. But in so far as the democracy did
+disagree with him, it was but the occasional and inevitable result of
+the theory by which the despot has to anticipate the democracy.
+
+Thus the American King and the English President are the very opposite
+of each other; yet they are both the varied and very national
+indications of the same contemporary truth. It is the great weariness
+and contempt that have fallen upon common politics in both countries. It
+may be answered, with some show of truth, that the new American
+President represents a return to common politics; and that in that sense
+he marks a real rebuke to the last President and his more uncommon
+politics. And it is true that many who put Mr. Harding in power regard
+him as the symbol of something which they call normalcy; which may
+roughly be translated into English by the word normality. And by this
+they do mean, more or less, the return to the vague capitalist
+conservatism of the nineteenth century. They might call Mr. Harding a
+Victorian if they had ever lived under Victoria. Perhaps these people do
+entertain the extraordinary notion that the nineteenth century was
+normal. But there are very few who think so, and even they will not
+think so long. The blunder is the beginning of nearly all our present
+troubles. The nineteenth century was the very reverse of normal. It
+suffered a most unnatural strain in the combination of political
+equality in theory with extreme economic inequality in practice.
+Capitalism was not a normalcy but an abnormalcy. Property is normal, and
+is more normal in proportion as it is universal. Slavery may be normal
+and even natural, in the sense that a bad habit may be second nature.
+But Capitalism was never anything so human as a habit; we may say it was
+never anything so good as a bad habit. It was never a custom; for men
+never grew accustomed to it. It was never even conservative; for before
+it was even created wise men had realised that it could not be
+conserved. It was from the first a problem; and those who will not even
+admit the Capitalist problem deserve to get the Bolshevist solution. All
+things considered, I cannot say anything worse of them than that.
+
+The recent Presidential election preserved some trace of the old Party
+System of America; but its tradition has very nearly faded like that of
+the Party System of England. It is easy for an Englishman to confess
+that he never quite understood the American Party System. It would
+perhaps be more courageous in him, and more informing, to confess that
+he never really understood the British Party System. The planks in the
+two American platforms may easily be exhibited as very disconnected and
+ramshackle; but our own party was as much of a patchwork, and indeed I
+think even more so. Everybody knows that the two American factions were
+called 'Democrat' and 'Republican.' It does not at all cover the case to
+identify the former with Liberals and the latter with Conservatives. The
+Democrats are the party of the South and have some true tradition from
+the Southern aristocracy and the defence of Secession and State Rights.
+The Republicans rose in the North as the party of Lincoln, largely
+condemning slavery. But the Republicans are also the party of Tariffs,
+and are at least accused of being the party of Trusts. The Democrats are
+the party of Free Trade; and in the great movement of twenty years ago
+the party of Free Silver. The Democrats are also the party of the Irish;
+and the stones they throw at Trusts are retorted by stones thrown at
+Tammany. It is easy to see all these things as curiously sporadic and
+bewildering; but I am inclined to think that they are as a whole more
+coherent and rational than our own old division of Liberals and
+Conservatives. There is even more doubt nowadays about what is the
+connecting link between the different items in the old British party
+programmes. I have never been able to understand why being in favour of
+Protection should have anything to do with being opposed to Home Rule;
+especially as most of the people who were to receive Home Rule were
+themselves in favour of Protection. I could never see what giving people
+cheap bread had to do with forbidding them cheap beer; or why the party
+which sympathises with Ireland cannot sympathise with Poland. I cannot
+see why Liberals did not liberate public-houses or Conservatives
+conserve crofters. I do not understand the principle upon which the
+causes were selected on both sides; and I incline to think that it was
+with the impartial object of distributing nonsense equally on both
+sides. Heaven knows there is enough nonsense in American politics too;
+towering and tropical nonsense like a cyclone or an earthquake. But when
+all is said, I incline to think that there was more spiritual and
+atmospheric cohesion in the different parts of the American party than
+in those of the English party; and I think this unity was all the more
+real because it was more difficult to define. The Republican party
+originally stood for the triumph of the North, and the North stood for
+the nineteenth century; that is for the characteristic commercial
+expansion of the nineteenth century; for a firm faith in the profit and
+progress of its great and growing cities, its division of labour, its
+industrial science, and its evolutionary reform. The Democratic party
+stood more loosely for all the elements that doubted whether this
+development was democratic or was desirable; all that looked back to
+Jeffersonian idealism and the serene abstractions of the eighteenth
+century, or forward to Bryanite idealism and some simplified Utopia
+founded on grain rather than gold. Along with this went, not at all
+unnaturally, the last and lingering sentiment of the Southern squires,
+who remembered a more rural civilisation that seemed by comparison
+romantic. Along with this went, quite logically, the passions and the
+pathos of the Irish, themselves a rural civilisation, whose basis is a
+religion or what the nineteenth century tended to call a superstition.
+Above all, it was perfectly natural that this tone of thought should
+favour local liberties, and even a revolt on behalf of local liberties,
+and should distrust the huge machine of centralised power called the
+Union. In short, something very near the truth was said by a suicidally
+silly Republican orator, who was running Blaine for the Presidency, when
+he denounced the Democratic party as supported by 'Rome, rum, and
+rebellion.' They seem to me to be three excellent things in their place;
+and that is why I suspect that I should have belonged to the Democratic
+party, if I had been born in America when there was a Democratic party.
+But I fancy that by this time even this general distinction has become
+very dim. If I had been an American twenty years ago, in the time of the
+great Free Silver campaign, I should certainly never have hesitated for
+an instant about my sympathies or my side. My feelings would have been
+exactly those that are nobly expressed by Mr. Vachell Lindsay, in a poem
+bearing the characteristic title of 'Bryan, Bryan, Bryan, Bryan.' And,
+by the way, nobody can begin to sympathise with America whose soul does
+not to some extent begin to swing and dance to the drums and gongs of
+Mr. Vachell Lindsay's great orchestra; which has the note of his whole
+nation in this: that a refined person can revile it a hundred times over
+as violent and brazen and barbarous and absurd, but not as insincere;
+there is something in it, and that something is the soul of many million
+men. But the poet himself, in the political poem referred to, speaks of
+Bryan's fall over Free Silver as 'defeat of my boyhood, defeat of my
+dream'; and it is only too probable that the cause has fallen as well as
+the candidate. The William Jennings Bryan of later years is not the man
+whom I should have seen in my youth, with the visionary eyes of Mr.
+Vachell Lindsay. He has become a commonplace Pacifist, which is in its
+nature the very opposite of a revolutionist; for if men will fight
+rather than sacrifice humanity on a golden cross, it cannot be wrong for
+them to resist its being sacrificed to an iron cross. I came into very
+indirect contact with Mr. Bryan when I was in America, in a fashion that
+made me realise how hard it has become to recover the illusions of a
+Bryanite. I believe that my lecture agent was anxious to arrange a
+debate, and I threw out a sort of loose challenge to the effect that
+woman's suffrage had weakened the position of woman; and while I was
+away in the wilds of Oklahoma my lecture agent (a man of blood-curdling
+courage and enterprise) asked Mr. Bryan to debate with me. Now Mr. Bryan
+is one of the greatest orators of modern history, and there is no
+conceivable reason why he should trouble to debate with a wandering
+lecturer. But as a matter of fact he expressed himself in the most
+magnanimous and courteous terms about my personal position, but said (as
+I understood) that it would be improper to debate on female suffrage as
+it was already a part of the political system. And when I heard that, I
+could not help a sigh; for I recognised something that I knew only too
+well on the front benches of my own beloved land. The great and glorious
+demagogue had degenerated into a statesman. I had never expected for a
+moment that the great orator could be bothered to debate with me at all;
+but it had never occurred to me, as a general moral principle, that two
+educated men were for ever forbidden to talk sense about a particular
+topic, because a lot of other people had already voted on it. What is
+the matter with that attitude is the loss of the freedom of the mind.
+There can be no liberty of thought unless it is ready to unsettle what
+has recently been settled, as well as what has long been settled. We are
+perpetually being told in the papers that what is wanted is a strong man
+who will do things. What is wanted is a strong man who will undo things;
+and that will be a real test of strength.
+
+Anyhow, we could have believed, in the time of the Free Silver fight,
+that the Democratic party was democratic with a small d. In Mr. Wilson
+it was transfigured, his friends would say into a higher and his foes
+into a hazier thing. And the Republican reaction against him, even where
+it has been healthy, has also been hazy. In fact, it has been not so
+much the victory of a political party as a relapse into repose after
+certain political passions; and in that sense there is a truth in the
+strange phrase about normalcy; in the sense that there is nothing more
+normal than going to sleep. But an even larger truth is this; it is most
+likely that America is no longer concentrated on these faction fights at
+all, but is considering certain large problems upon which those factions
+hardly troubled to take sides. They are too large even to be classified
+as foreign policy distinct from domestic policy. They are so large as to
+be inside as well as outside the state. From an English standpoint the
+most obvious example is the Irish; for the Irish problem is not a
+British problem, but also an American problem. And this is true even of
+the great external enigma of Japan. The Japanese question may be a part
+of foreign policy for America, but it is a part of domestic policy for
+California. And the same is true of that other intense and intelligent
+Eastern people, the genius and limitations of which have troubled the
+world so much longer. What the Japs are in California, the Jews are in
+America. That is, they are a piece of foreign policy that has become
+imbedded in domestic policy; something which is found inside but still
+has to be regarded from the outside. On these great international
+matters I doubt if Americans got much guidance from their party system;
+especially as most of these questions have grown very recently and
+rapidly to enormous size. Men are left free to judge of them with fresh
+minds. And that is the truth in the statement that the Washington
+Conference has opened the gates of a new world.
+
+On the relations to England and Ireland I will not attempt to dwell
+adequately here. I have already noted that my first interview was with
+an Irishman, and my first impression from that interview a vivid sense
+of the importance of Ireland in Anglo-American relations; and I have
+said something of the Irish problem, prematurely and out of its proper
+order, under the stress of that sense of urgency. Here I will only add
+two remarks about the two countries respectively. A great many British
+journalists have recently imagined that they were pouring oil upon the
+troubled waters, when they were rather pouring out oil to smooth the
+downward path; and to turn the broad road to destruction into a
+butter-slide. They seem to have no notion of what to do, except to say
+what they imagine the very stupidest of their readers would be pleased
+to hear, and conceal whatever the most intelligent of their readers
+would probably like to know. They therefore informed the public that
+'the majority of Americans' had abandoned all sympathy with Ireland,
+because of its alleged sympathy with Germany; and that this majority of
+Americans was now ardently in sympathy with its English brothers across
+the sea. Now to begin with, such critics have no notion of what they are
+saying when they talk about the majority of Americans. To anybody who
+has happened to look in, let us say, on the city of Omaha, Nebraska, the
+remark will have something enormous and overwhelming about it. It is
+like saying that the majority of the inhabitants of China would agree
+with the Chinese Ambassador in a preference for dining at the Savoy
+rather than the Ritz. There are millions and millions of people living
+in those great central plains of the North American Continent of whom
+it would be nearer the truth to say that they have never heard of
+England, or of Ireland either, than to say that their first emotional
+movement is a desire to come to the rescue of either of them. It is
+perfectly true that the more monomaniac sort of Sinn Feiner might
+sometimes irritate this innocent and isolated American spirit by being
+pro-Irish. It is equally true that a traditional Bostonian or Virginian
+might irritate it by being pro-English. The only difference is that
+large numbers of pure Irishmen are scattered in those far places, and
+large numbers of pure Englishmen are not. But it is truest of all to say
+that neither England nor Ireland so much as crosses the mind of most of
+them once in six months. Painting up large notices of 'Watch Us Grow,'
+making money by farming with machinery, together with an occasional
+hold-up with six-shooters and photographs of a beautiful murderess or
+divorcée, fill up the round of their good and happy lives, and fleet the
+time carelessly as in the golden age.
+
+But putting aside all this vast and distant democracy, which is the real
+'majority of Americans,' and confining ourselves to that older culture
+on the eastern coast which the critics probably had in mind, we shall
+find the case more comforting but not to be covered with cheap and false
+comfort. Now it is perfectly true that any Englishman coming to this
+eastern coast, as I did, finds himself not only most warmly welcomed as
+a guest, but most cordially complimented as an Englishman. Men recall
+with pride the branches of their family that belong to England or the
+English counties where they were rooted; and there are enthusiasms for
+English literature and history which are as spontaneous as patriotism
+itself. Something of this may be put down to a certain promptitude and
+flexibility in all American kindness, which is never sufficiently stodgy
+to be called good nature. The Englishman does sometimes wonder whether
+if he had been a Russian, his hosts would not have remembered remote
+Russian aunts and uncles and disinterred a Muscovite great-grandmother;
+or whether if he had come from Iceland, they would not have known as
+much about Icelandic sagas and been as sympathetic about the absence of
+Icelandic snakes. But with a fair review of the proportions of the case
+he will dismiss this conjecture, and come to the conclusion that a
+number of educated Americans are very warmly and sincerely sympathetic
+with England.
+
+What I began to feel, with a certain creeping chill, was that they were
+only too sympathetic with England. The word sympathetic has sometimes
+rather a double sense. The impression I received was that all these
+chivalrous Southerners and men mellow with Bostonian memories were
+_rallying_ to England. They were on the defensive; and it was poor old
+England that they were defending. Their attitude implied that somebody
+or something was leaving her undefended, or finding her indefensible.
+The burden of that hearty chorus was that England was not so black as
+she was painted; it seemed clear that somewhere or other she was being
+painted pretty black. But there was something else that made me
+uncomfortable; it was not only the sense of being somewhat boisterously
+forgiven; it was also something involving questions of power as well as
+morality. Then it seemed to me that a new sensation turned me hot and
+cold; and I felt something I have never before felt in a foreign land.
+Never had my father or my grandfather known that sensation; never during
+the great and complex and perhaps perilous expansion of our power and
+commerce in the last hundred years had an Englishman heard exactly that
+note in a human voice. England was being _pitied_. I, as an Englishman,
+was not only being pardoned but pitied. My country was beginning to be
+an object of compassion, like Poland or Spain. My first emotion, full of
+the mood and movement of a hundred years, was one of furious anger. But
+the anger has given place to anxiety; and the anxiety is not yet at an
+end.
+
+It is not my business here to expound my view of English politics, still
+less of European politics or the politics of the world; but to put down
+a few impressions of American travel. On many points of European
+politics the impression will be purely negative; I am sure that most
+Americans have no notion of the position of France or the position of
+Poland. But if English readers want the truth, I am sure this is the
+truth about their notion of the position of England. They are wondering,
+or those who are watching are wondering, whether the term of her success
+is come and she is going down the dark road after Prussia. Many are
+sorry if this is so; some are glad if it is so; but all are seriously
+considering the probability of its being so. And herein lay especially
+the horrible folly of our Black-and-Tan terrorism over the Irish people.
+I have noted that the newspapers told us that America had been chilled
+in its Irish sympathies by Irish detachment during the war. It is the
+painful truth that any advantage we might have had from this we
+ourselves immediately proceeded to destroy. Ireland _might_ have put
+herself wrong with America by her attitude about Belgium, if England had
+not instantly proceeded to put herself more wrong by her attitude
+towards Ireland. It is quite true that two blacks do not make a white;
+but you cannot send a black to reproach people with tolerating
+blackness; and this is quite as true when one is a Black Brunswicker and
+the other a Black-and-Tan. It is true that since then England has made
+surprisingly sweeping concessions; concessions so large as to increase
+the amazement that the refusal should have been so long. But
+unfortunately the combination of the two rather clinches the conception
+of our decline. If the concession had come before the terror, it would
+have looked like an attempt to emancipate, and would probably have
+succeeded. Coming so abruptly after the terror, it looked only like an
+attempt to tyrannise, and an attempt that failed. It was partly an
+inheritance from a stupid tradition, which tried to combine what it
+called firmness with what it called conciliation; as if when we made up
+our minds to soothe a man with a five-pound note, we always took care to
+undo our own action by giving him a kick as well. The English politician
+has often done that; though there is nothing to be said of such a fool,
+except that he has wasted a fiver. But in this case he gave the kick
+first, received a kicking in return, and _then_ gave up the money; and
+it was hard for the bystanders to say anything except that he had been
+badly beaten. The combination and sequence of events seems almost as if
+it were arranged to suggest the dark and ominous parallel. The first
+action looked only too like the invasion of Belgium, and the second like
+the evacuation of Belgium. So that vast and silent crowd in the West
+looked at the British Empire, as men look at a great tower that has
+begun to lean. Thus it was that while I found real pleasure, I could not
+find unrelieved consolation in the sincere compliments paid to my
+country by so many cultivated Americans; their memories of homely
+corners of historic counties from which their fathers came, of the
+cathedral that dwarfs the town, or the inn at the turning of the road.
+There was something in their voices and the look in their eyes which
+from the first disturbed me. So I have heard good Englishmen, who died
+afterwards the death of soldiers, cry aloud in 1914, 'It seems
+impossible, of those jolly Bavarians!' or, 'I will never believe it,
+when I think of the time I had at Heidelberg!'
+
+But there are other things besides the parallel of Prussia or the
+problem of Ireland. The American press is much freer than our own; the
+American public is much more familiar with the discussion of corruption
+than our own; and it is much more conscious of the corruption of our
+politics than we are. Almost any man in America may speak of the Marconi
+Case; many a man in England does not even know what it means. Many
+imagine that it had something to do with the propriety of politicians
+speculating on the Stock Exchange. So that it means a great deal to
+Americans to say that one figure in that drama is ruling India and
+another is ruling Palestine. And this brings me to another problem,
+which is also dealt with much more openly in America than in England. I
+mention it here only because it is a perfect model of the
+misunderstandings in the modern world. If any one asks for an example
+of exactly how the important part of every story is left out, and even
+the part that is reported is not understood, he could hardly have a
+stronger case than the story of Henry Ford of Detroit.
+
+When I was in Detroit I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Ford, and it
+really was a pleasure. He is a man quite capable of views which I think
+silly to the point of insanity; but he is not the vulgar benevolent
+boss. It must be admitted that he is a millionaire; but he cannot really
+be convicted of being a philanthropist. He is not a man who merely wants
+to run people; it is rather his views that run him, and perhaps run away
+with him. He has a distinguished and sensitive face; he really invented
+things himself, unlike most men who profit by inventions; he is
+something of an artist and not a little of a fighter. A man of that type
+is always capable of being wildly wrong, especially in the sectarian
+atmosphere of America; and Mr. Ford has been wrong before and may be
+wrong now. He is chiefly known in England for a project which I think
+very preposterous; that of the Peace Ship, which came to Europe during
+the war. But he is not known in England at all in connection with a much
+more important campaign, which he has conducted much more recently and
+with much more success; a campaign against the Jews like one of the
+Anti-Semitic campaigns of the Continent. Now any one who knows anything
+of America knows exactly what the Peace Ship would be like. It was a
+national combination of imagination and ignorance, which has at least
+some of the beauty of innocence. Men living in those huge, hedgeless
+inland plains know nothing about frontiers or the tragedy of a fight for
+freedom; they know nothing of alarum and armaments or the peril of a
+high civilisation poised like a precious statue within reach of a mailed
+fist. They are accustomed to a cosmopolitan citizenship, in which men of
+all bloods mingle and in which men of all creeds are counted equal.
+Their highest moral boast is humanitarianism; their highest mental boast
+is enlightenment. In a word, they are the very last men in the world who
+would seem likely to pride themselves on a prejudice against the Jews.
+They have no religion in particular, except a sincere sentiment which
+they would call 'true Christianity,' and which specially forbids an
+attack on the Jews. They have a patriotism which prides itself on
+assimilating all types, including the Jews. Mr. Ford is a pure product
+of this pacific world, as was sufficiently proved by his pacifism. If a
+man of that sort has discovered that there is a Jewish problem, it is
+because there is a Jewish problem. It is certainly not because there is
+an Anti-Jewish prejudice. For if there had been any amount of such
+racial and religious prejudice, he would have been about the very last
+sort of man to have it. His particular part of the world would have been
+the very last place to produce it. We may well laugh at the Peace Ship,
+and its wild course and inevitable shipwreck; but remember that its very
+wildness was an attempt to sail as far as possible from the castle of
+Front-de-Boeuf. Everything that made him Anti-War should have
+prevented him from being Anti-Semite. We may mock him for being mad on
+peace; but we cannot say that he was so mad on peace that he made war on
+Israel.
+
+It happened that, when I was in America, I had just published some
+studies on Palestine; and I was besieged by Rabbis lamenting my
+'prejudice.' I pointed out that they would have got hold of the wrong
+word, even if they had not got hold of the wrong man. As a point of
+personal autobiography, I do not happen to be a man who dislikes Jews;
+though I believe that some men do. I have had Jews among my most
+intimate and faithful friends since my boyhood, and I hope to have them
+till I die. But even if I did have a dislike of Jews, it would be
+illogical to call that dislike a prejudice. Prejudice is a very lucid
+Latin word meaning the bias which a man has before he considers a case.
+I might be said to be prejudiced against a Hairy Ainu because of his
+name, for I have never been on terms of such intimacy with him as to
+correct my preconceptions. But if after moving about in the modern world
+and meeting Jews, knowing Jews, doing business with Jews, and reading
+and hearing about Jews, I came to the conclusion that I did not like
+Jews, my conclusion certainly would not be a prejudice. It would simply
+be an opinion; and one I should be perfectly entitled to hold; though as
+a matter of fact I do not hold it. No extravagance of hatred merely
+following on _experience_ of Jews can properly be called a prejudice.
+
+Now the point is that this new American Anti-Semitism springs from
+experience and nothing but experience. There is no prejudice for it to
+spring from. Or rather the prejudice is all the other way. All the
+traditions of that democracy, and very creditable traditions too, are in
+favour of toleration and a sort of idealistic indifference. The
+sympathies in which these nineteenth-century people were reared were all
+against Front-de-Boeuf and in favour of Rebecca. They inherited a
+prejudice against Anti-Semitism; a prejudice of Anti-Anti-Semitism.
+These people of the plains have found the Jewish problem exactly as they
+might have struck oil; because it is _there_, and not even because they
+were looking for it. Their view of the problem, like their use of the
+oil, is not always satisfactory; and with parts of it I entirely
+disagree. But the point is that the thing which I call a problem, and
+others call a prejudice, has now appeared in broad daylight in a new
+country where there is no priestcraft, no feudalism, no ancient
+superstition to explain it. It has appeared because it _is_ a problem;
+and those are the best friends of the Jews, including many of the Jews
+themselves, who are trying to find a solution. That is the meaning of
+the incident of Mr. Henry Ford of Detroit; and you will hardly hear an
+intelligible word about it in England.
+
+The talk of prejudice against the Japs is not unlike the talk of
+prejudice against the Jews. Only in this case our indifference has
+really the excuse of ignorance. We used to lecture the Russians for
+oppressing the Jews, before we heard the word Bolshevist and began to
+lecture them for being oppressed by the Jews. In the same way we have
+long lectured the Californians for oppressing the Japs, without allowing
+for the possibility of their foreseeing that the oppression may soon be
+the other way. As in the other case, it may be a persecution but it is
+not a prejudice. The Californians know more about the Japanese than we
+do; and our own colonists when they are placed in the same position
+generally say the same thing. I will not attempt to deal adequately here
+with the vast international and diplomatic problems which arise with the
+name of the new power in the Far East. It is possible that Japan, having
+imitated European militarism, may imitate European pacifism. I cannot
+honestly pretend to know what the Japanese mean by the one any more than
+by the other. But when Englishmen, especially English Liberals like
+myself, take a superior and censorious attitude towards Americans and
+especially Californians, I am moved to make a final remark. When a
+considerable number of Englishmen talk of the grave contending claims of
+our friendship with Japan and our friendship with America, when they
+finally tend in a sort of summing up to dwell on the superior virtues of
+Japan, I may be permitted to make a single comment.
+
+We are perpetually boring the world and each other with talk about the
+bonds that bind us to America. We are perpetually crying aloud that
+England and America are very much alike, especially England. We are
+always insisting that the two are identical in all the things in which
+they most obviously differ. We are always saying that both stand for
+democracy, when we should not consent to stand their democracy for half
+a day. We are always saying that at least we are all Anglo-Saxons, when
+we are descended from Romans and Normans and Britons and Danes, and they
+are descended from Irishmen and Italians and Slavs and Germans. We tell
+a people whose very existence is a revolt against the British Crown that
+they are passionately devoted to the British Constitution. We tell a
+nation whose whole policy has been isolation and independence that with
+us she can bear safely the White Man's Burden of universal empire. We
+tell a continent crowded with Irishmen to thank God that the Saxon can
+always rule the Celt. We tell a populace whose very virtues are lawless
+that together we uphold the Reign of Law. We recognise our own
+law-abiding character in people who make laws that neither they nor
+anybody else can abide. We congratulate them on clinging to all they
+have cast away, and on imitating everything which they came into
+existence to insult. And when we have established all these nonsensical
+analogies with a nonexistent nation, we wait until there is a crisis in
+which we really are at one with America, and then we falter and threaten
+to fail her. In a battle where we really are of one blood, the blood of
+the great white race throughout the world, when we really have one
+language, the fundamental alphabet of Cadmus and the script of Rome,
+when we really do represent the same reign of law, the common conscience
+of Christendom and the morals of men baptized, when we really have an
+implicit faith and honour and type of freedom to summon up our souls as
+with trumpets--_then_ many of us begin to weaken and waver and wonder
+whether there is not something very nice about little yellow men, whose
+heroic stories revolve round polygamy and suicide, and whose heroes wore
+two swords and worshipped the ancestors of the Mikado.
+
+
+
+
+_Prohibition in Fact and Fancy_
+
+
+I went to America with some notion of not discussing Prohibition. But I
+soon found that well-to-do Americans were only too delighted to discuss
+it over the nuts and wine. They were even willing, if necessary, to
+dispense with the nuts. I am far from sneering at this; having a general
+philosophy which need not here be expounded, but which may be symbolised
+by saying that monkeys can enjoy nuts but only men can enjoy wine. But
+if I am to deal with Prohibition, there is no doubt of the first thing
+to be said about it. The first thing to be said about it is that it does
+not exist. It is to some extent enforced among the poor; at any rate it
+was intended to be enforced among the poor; though even among them I
+fancy it is much evaded. It is certainly not enforced among the rich;
+and I doubt whether it was intended to be. I suspect that this has
+always happened whenever this negative notion has taken hold of some
+particular province or tribe. Prohibition never prohibits. It never has
+in history; not even in Moslem history; and it never will. Mahomet at
+least had the argument of a climate and not the interest of a class. But
+if a test is needed, consider what part of Moslem culture has passed
+permanently into our own modern culture. You will find the one Moslem
+poem that has really pierced is a Moslem poem in praise of wine. The
+crown of all the victories of the Crescent is that nobody reads the
+Koran and everybody reads the Rubaiyat.
+
+Most of us remember with satisfaction an old picture in _Punch_,
+representing a festive old gentleman in a state of collapse on the
+pavement, and a philanthropic old lady anxiously calling the attention
+of a cabman to the calamity. The old lady says, 'I'm sure this poor
+gentleman is ill,' and the cabman replies with fervour, 'Ill! I wish I
+'ad 'alf 'is complaint.'
+
+We talk about unconscious humour; but there is such a thing as
+unconscious seriousness. Flippancy is a flower whose roots are often
+underground in the subconsciousness. Many a man talks sense when he
+thinks he is talking nonsense; touches on a conflict of ideas as if it
+were only a contradiction of language, or really makes a parallel when
+he means only to make a pun. Some of the _Punch_ jokes of the best
+period are examples of this; and that quoted above is a very strong
+example of it. The cabman meant what he said; but he said a great deal
+more than he meant. His utterance contained fine philosophical doctrines
+and distinctions of which he was not perhaps entirely conscious. The
+spirit of the English language, the tragedy and comedy of the condition
+of the English people, spoke through him as the god spoke through a
+teraph-head or brazen mask of oracle. And the oracle is an omen; and in
+some sense an omen of doom.
+
+Observe, to begin with, the sobriety of the cabman. Note his measure,
+his moderation; or to use the yet truer term, his temperance. He only
+wishes to have half the old gentleman's complaint. The old gentleman is
+welcome to the other half, along with all the other pomps and luxuries
+of his superior social station. There is nothing Bolshevist or even
+Communist about the temperance cabman. He might almost be called
+Distributist, in the sense that he wishes to distribute the old
+gentleman's complaint more equally between the old gentleman and
+himself. And, of course, the social relations there represented are very
+much truer to life than it is fashionable to suggest. By the realism of
+this picture Mr. Punch made amends for some more snobbish pictures, with
+the opposite social moral. It will remain eternally among his real
+glories that he exhibited a picture in which the cabman was sober and
+the gentleman was drunk. Despite many ideas to the contrary, it was
+emphatically a picture of real life. The truth is subject to the
+simplest of all possible tests. If the cabman were really and truly
+drunk he would not be a cabman, for he could not drive a cab. If he had
+the whole of the old gentleman's complaint, he would be sitting happily
+on the pavement beside the old gentleman; a symbol of social equality
+found at last, and the levelling of all classes of mankind. I do not say
+that there has never been such a monster known as a drunken cabman; I do
+not say that the driver may not sometimes have approximated imprudently
+to three-quarters of the complaint, instead of adhering to his severe
+but wise conception of half of it. But I do say that most men of the
+world, if they spoke sincerely, could testify to more examples of
+helplessly drunken gentlemen put inside cabs than of helplessly drunken
+drivers on top of them. Philanthropists and officials, who never look at
+people but only at papers, probably have a mass of social statistics to
+the contrary; founded on the simple fact that cabmen can be
+cross-examined about their habits and gentlemen cannot. Social workers
+probably have the whole thing worked out in sections and compartments,
+showing how the extreme intoxication of cabmen compares with the
+parallel intoxication of costermongers; or measuring the drunkenness of
+a dustman against the drunkenness of a crossing-sweeper. But there is
+more practical experience embodied in the practical speech of the
+English; and in the proverb that says 'as drunk as a lord.'
+
+Now Prohibition, whether as a proposal in England or a pretence in
+America, simply means that the man who has drunk less shall have no
+drink, and the man who has drunk more shall have all the drink. It means
+that the old gentleman shall be carried home in the cab drunker than
+ever; but that, in order to make it quite safe for him to drink to
+excess, the man who drives him shall be forbidden to drink even in
+moderation. That is what it means; that is all it means; that is all it
+ever will mean. It tends to that in Moslem countries; where the
+luxurious and advanced drink champagne, while the poor and fanatical
+drink water. It means that in modern America; where the wealthy are all
+at this moment sipping their cocktails, and discussing how much harder
+labourers can be made to work if only they can be kept from festivity.
+This is what it means and all it means; and men are divided about it
+according to whether they believe in a certain transcendental concept
+called 'justice,' expressed in a more mystical paradox as the equality
+of men. So long as you do not believe in justice, and so long as you are
+rich and really confident of remaining so, you can have Prohibition and
+be as drunk as you choose.
+
+I see that some remarks by the Rev. R. J. Campbell, dealing with social
+conditions in America, are reported in the press. They include some
+observations about Sinn Fein in which, as in most of Mr. Campbell's
+allusions to Ireland, it is not difficult to detect his dismal origin,
+or the acrid smell of the smoke of Belfast. But the remarks about
+America are valuable in the objective sense, over and above their
+philosophy. He believes that Prohibition will survive and be a success,
+nor does he seem himself to regard the prospect with any special
+disfavour. But he frankly and freely testifies to the truth I have
+asserted; that Prohibition does not prohibit, so far as the wealthy are
+concerned. He testifies to constantly seeing wine on the table, as will
+any other grateful guest of the generous hospitality of America; and he
+implies humorously that he asked no questions about the story told him
+of the old stocks in the cellars. So there is no dispute about the
+facts; and we come back as before to the principles. Is Mr. Campbell
+content with a Prohibition which is another name for Privilege? If so,
+he has simply absorbed along with his new theology a new morality which
+is different from mine. But he does state both sides of the inequality
+with equal logic and clearness; and in these days of intellectual fog
+that alone is like a ray of sunshine.
+
+Now my primary objection to Prohibition is not based on any arguments
+against it, but on the one argument for it. I need nothing more for its
+condemnation than the only thing that is said in its defence. It is said
+by capitalists all over America; and it is very clearly and correctly
+reported by Mr. Campbell himself. The argument is that employees work
+harder, and therefore employers get richer. That this idea should be
+taken calmly, by itself, as the test of a problem of liberty, is in
+itself a final testimony to the presence of slavery. It shows that
+people have completely forgotten that there is any other test except the
+servile test. Employers are willing that workmen should have exercise,
+as it may help them to do more work. They are even willing that workmen
+should have leisure; for the more intelligent capitalists can see that
+this also really means that they can do more work. But they are not in
+any way willing that workmen should have fun; for fun only increases the
+happiness and not the utility of the worker. Fun is freedom; and in that
+sense is an end in itself. It concerns the man not as a worker but as a
+citizen, or even as a soul; and the soul in that sense is an end in
+itself. That a man shall have a reasonable amount of comedy and poetry
+and even fantasy in his life is part of his spiritual health, which is
+for the service of God; and not merely for his mechanical health, which
+is now bound to the service of man. The very test adopted has all the
+servile implication; the test of what we can get out of him, instead of
+the test of what he can get out of life.
+
+Mr. Campbell is reported to have suggested, doubtless rather as a
+conjecture than a prophecy, that England may find it necessary to become
+teetotal in order to compete commercially with the efficiency and
+economy of teetotal America. Well, in the eighteenth and early
+nineteenth centuries there was in America one of the most economical and
+efficient of all forms of labour. It did not happen to be feasible for
+the English to compete with it by copying it. There were so many
+humanitarian prejudices about in those days. But economically there
+seems to be no reason why a man should not have prophesied that England
+would be forced to adopt American Slavery then, as she is urged to adopt
+American Prohibition now. Perhaps such a prophet would have prophesied
+rightly. Certainly it is not impossible that universal Slavery might
+have been the vision of Calhoun as universal Prohibition seems to be the
+vision of Campbell. The old England of 1830 would have said that such a
+plea for slavery was monstrous; but what would it have said of a plea
+for enforced water-drinking? Nevertheless, the nobler Servile State of
+Calhoun collapsed before it could spread to Europe. And there is always
+the hope that the same may happen to the far more materialistic Utopia
+of Mr. Campbell and Soft Drinks.
+
+Abstract morality is very important; and it may well clear the mind to
+consider what would be the effect of Prohibition in America, if it were
+introduced there. It would, of course, be a decisive departure from the
+tradition of the Declaration of Independence. Those who deny that are
+hardly serious enough to demand attention. It is enough to say that they
+are reduced to minimising that document in defence of Prohibition,
+exactly as the slave-owners were reduced to minimising it in defence of
+Slavery. They are reduced to saying that the Fathers of the Republic
+meant no more than that they would not be ruled by a king. And they are
+obviously open to the reply which Lincoln gave to Douglas on the slavery
+question; that if that great charter was limited to certain events in
+the eighteenth century, it was hardly worth making such a fuss about in
+the nineteenth--or in the twentieth. But they are also open to another
+reply which is even more to the point, when they pretend that
+Jefferson's famous preamble only means to say that monarchy is wrong.
+They are maintaining that Jefferson only meant to say something that he
+does not say at all. The great preamble does not say that all
+monarchical government must be wrong; on the contrary, it rather implies
+that most government is right. It speaks of human governments in general
+as justified by the necessity of defending certain personal rights. I
+see no reason whatever to suppose that it would not include any royal
+government that does defend those rights. Still less do I doubt what it
+would say of a republican government that does destroy those rights.
+
+But what are those rights? Sophists can always debate about their
+degree; but even sophists cannot debate about their direction. Nobody in
+his five wits will deny that Jeffersonian democracy wished to give the
+law a general control in more public things, but the citizens a more
+general liberty in private things. Wherever we draw the line, liberty
+can only be personal liberty; and the most personal liberties must at
+least be the last liberties we lose. But to-day they are the first
+liberties we lose. It is not a question of drawing the line in the right
+place, but of beginning at the wrong end. What are the rights of man, if
+they do not include the normal right to regulate his own health, in
+relation to the normal risks of diet and daily life? Nobody can pretend
+that beer is a poison as prussic acid is a poison; that all the millions
+of civilised men who drank it all fell down dead when they had touched
+it. Its use and abuse is obviously a matter of judgment; and there can
+be no personal liberty, if it is not a matter of private judgment. It
+is not in the least a question of drawing the line between liberty and
+licence. If this is licence, there is no such thing as liberty. It is
+plainly impossible to find any right more individual or intimate. To say
+that a man has a right to a vote, but not a right to a voice about the
+choice of his dinner, is like saying that he has a right to his hat but
+not a right to his head.
+
+Prohibition, therefore, plainly violates the rights of man, if there are
+any rights of man. What its supporters really mean is that there are
+none. And in suggesting this, they have all the advantages that every
+sceptic has when he supports a negation. That sort of ultimate
+scepticism can only be retorted upon itself, and we can point out to
+them that they can no more prove the right of the city to be oppressive
+than we can prove the right of the citizen to be free. In the primary
+metaphysics of such a claim, it would surely be easier to make it out
+for a single conscious soul than for an artificial social combination.
+If there are no rights of men, what are the rights of nations? Perhaps a
+nation has no claim to self-government. Perhaps it has no claim to good
+government. Perhaps it has no claim to any sort of government or any
+sort of independence. Perhaps they will say _that_ is not implied in the
+Declaration of Independence. But without going deep into my reasons for
+believing in natural rights, or rather in supernatural rights (and
+Jefferson certainly states them as supernatural), I am content here to
+note that a man's treatment of his own body, in relation to traditional
+and ordinary opportunities for bodily excess, is as near to his
+self-respect as social coercion can possibly go; and that when that is
+gone there is nothing left. If coercion applies to that, it applies to
+everything; and in the future of this controversy it obviously will
+apply to everything. When I was in America, people were already applying
+it to tobacco. I never can see why they should not apply it to talking.
+Talking often goes with tobacco as it goes with beer; and what is more
+relevant, talking may often lead both to beer and tobacco. Talking often
+drives a man to drink, both negatively in the form of nagging and
+positively in the form of bad company. If the American Puritan is so
+anxious to be a _censor morum_, he should obviously put a stop to the
+evil communications that really corrupt good manners. He should
+reintroduce the Scold's Bridle among the other Blue Laws for a land of
+blue devils. He should gag all gay deceivers and plausible cynics; he
+should cut off all flattering lips and the tongue that speaketh proud
+things. Nobody can doubt that nine-tenths of the harm in the world is
+done simply by talking. Jefferson and the old democrats allowed people
+to talk, not because they were unaware of this fact, but because they
+were fettered by this old fancy of theirs about freedom and the rights
+of man. But since we have already abandoned that doctrine in a final
+fashion, I cannot see why the new principle should not be applied
+intelligently; and in that case it would be applied to the control of
+conversation. The State would provide us with forms already filled up
+with the subjects suitable for us to discuss at breakfast; perhaps
+allowing us a limited number of epigrams each. Perhaps we should have to
+make a formal application in writing, to be allowed to make a joke that
+had just occurred to us in conversation. And the committee would
+consider it in due course. Perhaps it would be effected in a more
+practical fashion, and the private citizens would be shut up as the
+public-houses were shut up. Perhaps they would all wear gags, which the
+policeman would remove at stated hours; and their mouths would be opened
+from one to three, as now in England even the public-houses are from
+time to time accessible to the public. To some this will sound
+fantastic; but not so fantastic as Jefferson would have thought
+Prohibition. But there is one sense in which it is indeed fantastic, for
+by hypothesis it leaves out the favouritism that is the fundamental of
+the whole matter. The only sense in which we can say that logic will
+never go so far as this is that logic will never go the length of
+equality. It is perfectly possible that the same forces that have
+forbidden beer may go on to forbid tobacco. But they will in a special
+and limited sense forbid tobacco--but not cigars. Or at any rate not
+expensive cigars. In America, where large numbers of ordinary men smoke
+rather ordinary cigars, there would be doubtless a good opportunity of
+penalising a very ordinary pleasure. But the Havanas of the millionaire
+will be all right. So it will be if ever the Puritans bring back the
+Scold's Bridle and the statutory silence of the populace. It will only
+be the populace that is silent. The politicians will go on talking.
+
+These I believe to be the broad facts of the problem of Prohibition; but
+it would not be fair to leave it without mentioning two other causes
+which, if not defences, are at least excuses. The first is that
+Prohibition was largely passed in a sort of fervour or fever of
+self-sacrifice, which was a part of the passionate patriotism of America
+in the war. As I have remarked elsewhere, those who have any notion of
+what that national unanimity was like will smile when they see America
+made a model of mere international idealism. Prohibition was partly a
+sort of patriotic renunciation; for the popular instinct, like every
+poetic instinct, always tends at great crises to great gestures of
+renunciation. But this very fact, while it makes the inhumanity far more
+human, makes it far less final and convincing. Men cannot remain
+standing stiffly in such symbolical attitudes; nor can a permanent
+policy be founded on something analogous to flinging a gauntlet or
+uttering a battle-cry. We might as well expect all the Yale students to
+remain through life with their mouths open, exactly as they were when
+they uttered the college yell. It would be as reasonable as to expect
+them to remain through life with their mouths shut, while the wine-cup
+which has been the sacrament of all poets and lovers passed round among
+all the youth of the world. This point appeared very plainly in a
+discussion I had with a very thoughtful and sympathetic American critic,
+a clergyman writing in an Anglo-Catholic magazine. He put the sentiment
+of these healthier Prohibitionists, which had so much to do with the
+passing of Prohibition, by asking, 'May not a man who is asked to give
+up his blood for his country be asked to give up his beer for his
+country?' And this phrase clearly illuminates all the limitations of the
+case. I have never denied, in principle, that it might in some abnormal
+crisis be lawful for a government to lock up the beer, or to lock up the
+bread. In that sense I am quite prepared to treat the sacrifice of beer
+in the same way as the sacrifice of blood. But is my American critic
+really ready to treat the sacrifice of blood in the same way as the
+sacrifice of beer? Is bloodshed to be as prolonged and protracted as
+Prohibition? Is the normal noncombatant to shed his gore as often as he
+misses his drink? I can imagine people submitting to a special
+regulation, as I can imagine them serving in a particular war. I do
+indeed despise the political knavery that deliberately passes drink
+regulations as war measures and then preserves them as peace measures.
+But that is not a question of whether drink and drunkenness are wrong,
+but of whether lying and swindling are wrong. But I never denied that
+there might need to be exceptional sacrifices for exceptional occasions;
+and war is in its nature an exception. Only, if war is the exception,
+why should Prohibition be the rule? If the surrender of beer is worthy
+to be compared to the shedding of blood, why then blood ought to be
+flowing for ever like a fountain in the public squares of Philadelphia
+and New York. If my critic wants to complete his parallel, he must draw
+up rather a remarkable programme for the daily life of the ordinary
+citizens. He must suppose that, through all their lives, they are
+paraded every day at lunch time and prodded with bayonets to show that
+they will shed their blood for their country. He must suppose that every
+evening, after a light repast of poison gas and shrapnel, they are made
+to go to sleep in a trench under a permanent drizzle of shell-fire. It
+is surely obvious that if this were the normal life of the citizen, the
+citizen would have no normal life. The common sense of the thing is that
+sacrifices of this sort are admirable but abnormal. It is not normal for
+the State to be perpetually regulating our days with the discipline of a
+fighting regiment; and it is not normal for the State to be perpetually
+regulating our diet with the discipline of a famine. To say that every
+citizen must be subject to control in such bodily things is like saying
+that every Christian ought to tear himself with red-hot pincers because
+the Christian martyrs did their duty in time of persecution. A man has a
+right to control his body, though in a time of martyrdom he may give his
+body to be burned; and a man has a right to control his bodily health,
+though in a state of siege he may give his body to be starved. Thus,
+though the patriotic defence was a sincere defence, it is a defence that
+comes back on the defenders like a boomerang. For it proves only that
+Prohibition ought to be ephemeral, unless war ought to be eternal.
+
+The other excuse is much less romantic and much more realistic. I have
+already said enough of the cause which is really realistic. The real
+power behind Prohibition is simply the plutocratic power of the pushing
+employers who wish to get the last inch of work out of their workmen.
+But before the progress of modern plutocracy had reached this stage,
+there was a predetermining cause for which there was a much better case.
+The whole business began with the problem of black labour. I have not
+attempted in this book to deal adequately with the question of the
+negro. I have refrained for a reason that may seem somewhat sensational;
+that I do not think I have anything particularly valuable to say or
+suggest. I do not profess to understand this singularly dark and
+intricate matter; and I see no use in men who have no solution filling
+up the gap with sentimentalism. The chief thing that struck me about the
+coloured people I saw was their charming and astonishing cheerfulness.
+My sense of pathos was appealed to much more by the Red Indians; and
+indeed I wish I had more space here to do justice to the Red Indians.
+They did heroic service in the war; and more than justified their
+glorious place in the day-dreams and nightmares of our boyhood. But the
+negro problem certainly demands more study than a sight-seer could give
+it; and this book is controversial enough about things that I have
+really considered, without permitting it to exhibit me as a sight-seer
+who shoots at sight. But I believe that it was always common ground to
+people of common sense that the enslavement and importation of negroes
+had been the crime and catastrophe of American history. The only
+difference was originally that one side thought that, the crime once
+committed, the only reparation was their freedom; while the other
+thought that, the crime once committed, the only safety was their
+slavery. It was only comparatively lately, by a process I shall have to
+indicate elsewhere, that anything like a positive case for slavery
+became possible. Now among the many problems of the presence of an alien
+and at least recently barbaric figure among the citizens, there was a
+very real problem of drink. Drink certainly has a very exceptionally
+destructive effect upon negroes in their native countries; and it was
+alleged to have a peculiarly demoralising effect upon negroes in the
+United States; to call up the passions that are the particular
+temptation of the race and to lead to appalling outrages that are
+followed by appalling popular vengeance. However this may be, many of
+the states of the American Union, which first forbade liquor to
+citizens, meant simply to forbid it to negroes. But they had not the
+moral courage to deny that negroes are citizens. About all their
+political expedients necessarily hung the load that hangs so heavy on
+modern politics; hypocrisy. The superior race had to rule by a sort of
+secret society organised against the inferior. The American politicians
+dared not disfranchise the negroes; so they coerced everybody in theory
+and only the negroes in practice. The drinking of the white men became
+as much a conspiracy as the shooting by the white horsemen of the
+Ku-Klux Klan. And in that connection, it may be remarked in passing that
+the comparison illustrates the idiocy of supposing that the moral sense
+of mankind will ever support the prohibition of drinking as if it were
+something like the prohibition of shooting. Shooting in America is
+liable to take a free form, and sometimes a very horrible form; as when
+private bravos were hired to kill workmen in the capitalistic interests
+of that pure patron of disarmament, Carnegie. But when some of the rich
+Americans gravely tell us that their drinking cannot be interfered with,
+because they are only using up their existing stocks of wine, we may
+well be disposed to smile. When I was there, at any rate, they were
+using them up very fast; and with no apparent fears about the supply.
+But if the Ku-Klux Klan had started suddenly shooting everybody they
+didn't like in broad daylight, and had blandly explained that they were
+only using up the stocks of their ammunition, left over from the Civil
+War, it seems probable that there would at least have been a little
+curiosity about how much they had left. There might at least have been
+occasional inquiries about how long it was likely to go on. It is even
+conceivable that some steps might have been taken to stop it.
+
+No steps are taken to stop the drinking of the rich, chiefly because
+the rich now make all the rules and therefore all the exceptions, but
+partly because nobody ever could feel the full moral seriousness of this
+particular rule. And the truth is, as I have indicated, that it was
+originally established as an exception and not as a rule. The
+emancipated negro was an exception in the community, and a certain plan
+was, rightly or wrongly, adopted to meet his case. A law was made
+professedly for everybody and practically only for him. Prohibition is
+only important as marking the transition by which the trick, tried
+successfully on black labour, could be extended to all labour. We in
+England have no right to be Pharisaic at the expense of the Americans in
+this matter; for we have tried the same trick in a hundred forms. The
+true philosophical defence of the modern oppression of the poor would be
+to say frankly that we have ruled them so badly that they are unfit to
+rule themselves. But no modern oligarch is enough of a man to say this.
+For like all virile cynicism it would have an element of humility; which
+would not mix with the necessary element of hypocrisy. So we proceed,
+just as the Americans do, to make a law for everybody and then evade it
+for ourselves. We have not the honesty to say that the rich may bet
+because they can afford it; so we forbid any man to bet in any place;
+and then say that a place is not a place. It is exactly as if there were
+an American law allowing a negro to be murdered because he is not a man
+within the meaning of the Act. We have not the honesty to drive the poor
+to school because they are ignorant; so we pretend to drive everybody;
+and then send inspectors to the slums but not to the smart streets. We
+apply the same ingenuous principle; and are quite as undemocratic as
+Western democracy. Nevertheless there is an element in the American case
+which cannot be present in ours; and this chapter may well conclude upon
+so important a change.
+
+America can now say with pride that she has abolished the colour bar. In
+this matter the white labourer and the black labourer have at last been
+put upon an equal social footing. White labour is every bit as much
+enslaved as black labour; and is actually enslaved by a method and a
+model only intended for black labour. We might think it rather odd if
+the exact regulations about flogging negroes were reproduced as a plan
+for punishing strikers; or if industrial arbitration issued its reports
+in the precise terminology of the Fugitive Slave Law. But this is in
+essentials what has happened; and one could almost fancy some negro orgy
+of triumph, with the beating of gongs and all the secret violence of
+Voodoo, crying aloud to some ancestral Mumbo Jumbo that the Poor White
+Trash was being treated according to its name.
+
+
+
+
+_Fads and Public Opinion_
+
+
+A foreigner is a man who laughs at everything except jokes. He is
+perfectly entitled to laugh at anything, so long as he realises, in a
+reverent and religious spirit, that he himself is laughable. I was a
+foreigner in America; and I can truly claim that the sense of my own
+laughable position never left me. But when the native and the foreigner
+have finished with seeing the fun of each other in things that are meant
+to be serious, they both approach the far more delicate and dangerous
+ground of things that are meant to be funny. The sense of humour is
+generally very national; perhaps that is why the internationalists are
+so careful to purge themselves of it. I had occasion during the war to
+consider the rights and wrongs of certain differences alleged to have
+arisen between the English and American soldiers at the front. And,
+rightly or wrongly, I came to the conclusion that they arose from the
+failure to understand when a foreigner is serious and when he is
+humorous. And it is in the very nature of the best sort of joke to be
+the worst sort of insult if it is not taken as a joke.
+
+The English and the American types of humour are in one way directly
+contrary. The most American sort of fun involves a soaring imagination,
+piling one house on another in a tower like that of a sky-scraper. The
+most English humour consists of a sort of bathos, of a man returning to
+the earth his mother in a homely fashion; as when he sits down suddenly
+on a butter-slide. English farce describes a man as being in a hole.
+American fantasy, in its more aspiring spirit, describes a man as being
+up a tree. The former is to be found in the cockney comic songs that
+concern themselves with hanging out the washing or coming home with the
+milk. The latter is to be found in those fantastic yarns about machines
+that turn live pigs into pig-skin purses or burning cities that serve to
+hatch an egg. But it will be inevitable, when the two come first into
+contact, that the bathos will sound like vulgarity and the extravagance
+will sound like boasting.
+
+Suppose an American soldier said to an English soldier in the trenches,
+'The Kaiser may want a place in the sun; I reckon he won't have a place
+in the solar system when we begin to hustle.' The English soldier will
+very probably form the impression that this is arrogance; an impression
+based on the extraordinary assumption that the American means what he
+says. The American has merely indulged in a little art for art's sake,
+and abstract adventure of the imagination; he has told an American short
+story. But the Englishman, not understanding this, will think the other
+man is boasting, and reflecting on the insufficiency of the English
+effort. The English soldier is very likely to say something like, 'Oh,
+you'll be wanting to get home to your old woman before that, and asking
+for a kipper with your tea.' And it is quite likely that the American
+will be offended in his turn at having his arabesque of abstract beauty
+answered in so personal a fashion. Being an American, he will probably
+have a fine and chivalrous respect for his wife; and may object to her
+being called an old woman. Possibly he in turn may be under the
+extraordinary delusion that talking of the old woman really means that
+the woman is old. Possibly he thinks the mysterious demand for a kipper
+carries with it some charge of ill-treating his wife; which his national
+sense of honour swiftly resents. But the real cross-purposes come from
+the contrary direction of the two exaggerations, the American making
+life more wild and impossible than it is, and the Englishman making it
+more flat and farcical than it is; the one escaping from the house of
+life by a skylight and the other by a trap-door.
+
+This difficulty of different humours is a very practical one for
+practical people. Most of those who profess to remove all international
+differences are not practical people. Most of the phrases offered for
+the reconciliation of severally patriotic peoples are entirely serious
+and even solemn phrases. But human conversation is not conducted in
+those phrases. The normal man on nine occasions out of ten is rather a
+flippant man. And the normal man is almost always the national man.
+Patriotism is the most popular of all the virtues. The drier sort of
+democrats who despise it have the democracy against them in every
+country in the world. Hence their international efforts seldom go any
+farther than to effect an international reconciliation of all
+internationalists. But we have not solved the normal and popular problem
+until we have an international reconciliation of all nationalists.
+
+It is very difficult to see how humour can be translated at all. When
+Sam Weller is in the Fleet Prison and Mrs. Weller and Mr. Stiggins sit
+on each side of the fireplace and weep and groan with sympathy, old Mr.
+Weller observes, 'Vell, Sammy, I hope you find your spirits rose by this
+'ere lively visit.' I have never looked up this passage in the popular
+and successful French version of _Pickwick_; but I confess I am curious
+as to what French past-participle conveys the precise effect of the word
+'rose.' A translator has not only to give the right translation of the
+right word but the right translation of the wrong word. And in the same
+way I am quite prepared to suspect that there are English jokes which an
+Englishman must enjoy in his own rich and romantic solitude, without
+asking for the sympathy of an American. But Englishmen are generally
+only too prone to claim this fine perception, without seeing that the
+fine edge of it cuts both ways. I have begun this chapter on the note of
+national humour because I wish to make it quite clear that I realise how
+easily a foreigner may take something seriously that is not serious.
+When I think something in America is really foolish, it may be I that am
+made a fool of. It is the first duty of a traveller to allow for this;
+but it seems to be the very last thing that occurs to some travellers.
+But when I seek to say something of what may be called the fantastic
+side of America, I allow beforehand that some of it may be meant to be
+fantastic. And indeed it is very difficult to believe that some of it is
+meant to be serious. But whether or no there is a joke, there is
+certainly an inconsistency; and it is an inconsistency in the moral
+make-up of America which both puzzles and amuses me.
+
+The danger of democracy is not anarchy but convention. There is even a
+sort of double meaning in the word 'convention'; for it is also used for
+the most informal and popular sort of parliament; a parliament not
+summoned by any king. The Americans come together very easily without
+any king; but their coming together is in every sense a convention, and
+even a very conventional convention. In a democracy riot is rather the
+exception and respectability certainly the rule. And though a
+superficial sight-seer should hesitate about all such generalisations,
+and certainly should allow for enormous exceptions to them, he does
+receive a general impression of unity verging on uniformity. Thus
+Americans all dress well; one might almost say that American women all
+look well; but they do not, as compared with Europeans, look very
+different. They are in the fashion; too much in the fashion even to be
+conspicuously fashionable. Of course there are patches, both Bohemian
+and Babylonian, of which this is not true, but I am talking of the
+general tone of a whole democracy. I have said there is more
+respectability than riot; but indeed in a deeper sense the same spirit
+is behind both riot and respectability. It is the same social force that
+makes it possible for the respectable to boycott a man and for the
+riotous to lynch him. I do not object to it being called 'the herd
+instinct,' so long as we realise that it is a metaphor and not an
+explanation.
+
+Public opinion can be a prairie fire. It eats up everything that opposes
+it; and there is the grandeur as well as the grave disadvantages of a
+natural catastrophe in that national unity. Pacifists who complained in
+England of the intolerance of patriotism have no notion of what
+patriotism can be like. If they had been in America, after America had
+entered the war, they would have seen something which they have always
+perhaps subconsciously dreaded, and would then have beyond all their
+worst dreams detested; and the name of it is democracy. They would have
+found that there are disadvantages in birds of a feather flocking
+together; and that one of them follows on a too complacent display of
+the white feather. The truth is that a certain flexible sympathy with
+eccentrics of this kind is rather one of the advantages of an
+aristocratic tradition. The imprisonment of Mr. Debs, the American
+Pacifist, which really was prolonged and oppressive, would probably have
+been shortened in England where his opinions were shared by aristocrats
+like Mr. Bertrand Russell and Mr. Ponsonby. A man like Lord Hugh Cecil
+could be moved to the defence of conscientious objectors, partly by a
+true instinct of chivalry; but partly also by the general feeling that a
+gentleman may very probably have aunts and uncles who are quite as mad.
+He takes the matter personally, in the sense of being able to imagine
+the psychology of the persons. But democracy is no respecter of persons.
+It is no respecter of them, either in the bad and servile or in the good
+and sympathetic sense. And Debs was nothing to democracy. He was but one
+of the millions. This is a real problem, or question in the balance,
+touching different forms of government; which is, of course, quite
+neglected by the idealists who merely repeat long words. There was
+during the war a society called the Union of Democratic Control, which
+would have been instantly destroyed anywhere where democracy had any
+control, or where there was any union. And in this sense the United
+States have most emphatically got a union. Nevertheless I think there is
+something rather more subtle than this simple popular solidity behind
+the assimilation of American citizens to each other. There is something
+even in the individual ideals that drives towards this social sympathy.
+And it is here that we have to remember that biological fancies like the
+herd instinct are only figures of speech, and cannot really cover
+anything human. For the Americans are in some ways a very self-conscious
+people. To compare their social enthusiasm to a stampede of cattle is to
+ask us to believe in a bull writing a diary or a cow looking in a
+looking-glass. Intensely sensitive by their very vitality, they are
+certainly conscious of criticism and not merely of a blind and brutal
+appetite. But the peculiar point about them is that it is this very
+vividness in the self that often produces the similarity. It may be that
+when they are unconscious they are like bulls and cows. But it is when
+they are self-conscious that they are like each other.
+
+Individualism is the death of individuality. It is so, if only because
+it is an 'ism.' Many Americans become almost impersonal in their worship
+of personality. Where their natural selves might differ, their ideal
+selves tend to be the same. Anybody can see what I mean in those strong
+self-conscious photographs of American business men that can be seen in
+any American magazine. Each may conceive himself to be a solitary
+Napoleon brooding at St. Helena; but the result is a multitude of
+Napoleons brooding all over the place. Each of them must have the eyes
+of a mesmerist; but the most weak-minded person cannot be mesmerised by
+more than one millionaire at a time. Each of the millionaires must
+thrust forward his jaw, offering (if I may say so) to fight the world
+with the same weapon as Samson. Each of them must accentuate the length
+of his chin, especially, of course, by always being completely
+clean-shaven. It would be obviously inconsistent with Personality to
+prefer to wear a beard. These are of course fantastic examples on the
+fringe of American life; but they do stand for a certain assimilation,
+not through brute gregariousness, but rather through isolated dreaming.
+And though it is not always carried so far as this, I do think it is
+carried too far. There is not quite enough unconsciousness to produce
+real individuality. There is a sort of worship of will-power in the
+abstract, so that people are actually thinking about how they can will,
+more than about what they want. To this I do think a certain corrective
+could be found in the nature of English eccentricity. Every man in his
+humour is most interesting when he is unconscious of his humour; or at
+least when he is in an intermediate stage between humour in the old
+sense of oddity and in the new sense of irony. Much is said in these
+days against negative morality; and certainly most Americans would show
+a positive preference for positive morality. The virtues they venerate
+collectively are very active virtues; cheerfulness and courage and vim,
+otherwise zip, also pep and similar things. But it is sometimes
+forgotten that negative morality is freer than positive morality.
+Negative morality is a net of a larger and more open pattern, of which
+the lines or cords constrict at longer intervals. A man like Dr. Johnson
+could grow in his own way to his own stature in the net of the Ten
+Commandments; precisely because he was convinced there were only ten of
+them. He was not compressed into the mould of positive beauty, like
+that of the Apollo Belvedere or the American citizen.
+
+This criticism is sometimes true even of the American woman, who is
+certainly a much more delightful person than the mesmeric millionaire
+with his shaven jaw. Interviewers in the United States perpetually asked
+me what I thought of American women, and I confessed a distaste for such
+generalisations which I have not managed to lose. The Americans, who are
+the most chivalrous people in the world, may perhaps understand me; but
+I can never help feeling that there is something polygamous about
+talking of women in the plural at all; something unworthy of any
+American except a Mormon. Nevertheless, I think the exaggeration I
+suggest does extend in a less degree to American women, fascinating as
+they are. I think they too tend too much to this cult of impersonal
+personality. It is a description easy to exaggerate even by the faintest
+emphasis; for all these things are subtle and subject to striking
+individual exceptions. To complain of people for being brave and bright
+and kind and intelligent may not unreasonably appear unreasonable. And
+yet there is something in the background that can only be expressed by a
+symbol, something that is not shallowness but a neglect of the
+subconsciousness and the vaguer and slower impulses; something that can
+be missed amid all that laughter and light, under those starry
+candelabra of the ideals of the happy virtues. Sometimes it came over
+me, in a wordless wave, that I should like to see a sulky woman. How she
+would walk in beauty like the night, and reveal more silent spaces full
+of older stars! These things cannot be conveyed in their delicate
+proportion even in the most detached description. But the same thing
+was in the mind of a white-bearded old man I met in New York, an Irish
+exile and a wonderful talker, who stared up at the tower of gilded
+galleries of the great hotel, and said with that spontaneous movement of
+style which is hardly heard except from Irish talkers: 'And I have been
+in a village in the mountains where the people could hardly read or
+write; but all the men were like soldiers, and all the women had pride.'
+
+It sounds like a poem about an Earthly Paradise to say that in this land
+the old women can be more beautiful than the young. Indeed, I think Walt
+Whitman, the national poet, has a line somewhere almost precisely to
+that effect. It sounds like a parody upon Utopia, and the image of the
+lion lying down with the lamb, to say it is a place where a man might
+almost fall in love with his mother-in-law. But there is nothing in
+which the finer side of American gravity and good feeling does more
+honourably exhibit itself than in a certain atmosphere around the older
+women. It is not a cant phrase to say that they grow old gracefully; for
+they do really grow old. In this the national optimism really has in it
+the national courage. The old women do not dress like young women; they
+only dress better. There is another side to this feminine dignity in the
+old, sometimes a little lost in the young, with which I shall deal
+presently. The point for the moment is that even Whitman's truly poetic
+vision of the beautiful old women suffers a little from that bewildering
+multiplicity and recurrence that is indeed the whole theme of Whitman.
+It is like the green eternity of Leaves of Grass. When I think of the
+eccentric spinsters and incorrigible grandmothers of my own country, I
+cannot imagine that any one of them could possibly be mistaken for
+another, even at a glance. And in comparison I feel as if I had been
+travelling in an Earthly Paradise of more decorative harmonies; and I
+remember only a vast cloud of grey and pink as of the plumage of
+cherubim in an old picture. But on second thoughts, I think this may be
+only the inevitable effect of visiting any country in a swift and
+superficial fashion; and that the grey and pink cloud is probably an
+illusion, like the spinning prairies scattered by the wheel of the
+train.
+
+Anyhow there is enough of this equality, and of a certain social unity
+favourable to sanity, to make the next point about America very much of
+a puzzle. It seems to me a very real problem, to which I have never seen
+an answer even such as I shall attempt here, why a democracy should
+produce fads; and why, where there is so genuine a sense of human
+dignity, there should be so much of an impossible petty tyranny. I am
+not referring solely or even specially to Prohibition, which I discuss
+elsewhere. Prohibition is at least a superstition, and therefore next
+door to a religion; it has some imaginable connection with moral
+questions, as have slavery or human sacrifice. But those who ask us to
+model ourselves on the States which punish the sin of drink forget that
+there are States which punish the equally shameless sin of smoking a
+cigarette in the open air. The same American atmosphere that permits
+Prohibition permits of people being punished for kissing each other. In
+other words, there are States psychologically capable of making a man a
+convict for wearing a blue neck-tie or having a green front-door, or
+anything else that anybody chooses to fancy. There is an American
+atmosphere in which people may some day be shot for shaking hands, or
+hanged for writing a post-card.
+
+As for the sort of thing to which I refer, the American newspapers are
+full of it and there is no name for it but mere madness. Indeed it is
+not only mad, but it calls itself mad. To mention but one example out of
+many, it was actually boasted that some lunatics were teaching children
+to take care of their health. And it was proudly added that the children
+were 'health-mad.' That it is not exactly the object of all mental
+hygiene to make people mad did not occur to them; and they may still be
+engaged in their earnest labours to teach babies to be valetudinarians
+and hypochondriacs in order to make them healthy. In such cases, we may
+say that the modern world is too ridiculous to be ridiculed. You cannot
+caricature a caricature. Imagine what a satirist of saner days would
+have made of the daily life of a child of six, who was actually admitted
+to be mad on the subject of his own health. These are not days in which
+that great extravaganza could be written; but I dimly see some of its
+episodes like uncompleted dreams. I see the child pausing in the middle
+of a cart-wheel, or when he has performed three-quarters of a
+cart-wheel, and consulting a little note-book about the amount of
+exercise per diem. I see him pausing half-way up a tree, or when he has
+climbed exactly one-third of a tree; and then producing a clinical
+thermometer to take his own temperature. But what would be the good of
+imaginative logic to prove the madness of such people, when they
+themselves praise it for being mad?
+
+There is also the cult of the Infant Phenomenon, of which Dickens made
+fun and of which educationalists make fusses. When I was in America
+another newspaper produced a marvellous child of six who had the
+intellect of a child of twelve. The only test given, and apparently one
+on which the experiment turned, was that she could be made to understand
+and even to employ the word 'annihilate.' When asked to say something
+proving this, the happy infant offered the polished aphorism, 'When
+common sense comes in, superstition is annihilated.' In reply to which,
+by way of showing that I also am as intelligent as a child of twelve,
+and there is no arrested development about me, I will say in the same
+elegant diction, 'When psychological education comes in, common sense is
+annihilated.' Everybody seems to be sitting round this child in an
+adoring fashion. It did not seem to occur to anybody that we do not
+particularly want even a child of twelve to talk about annihilating
+superstition; that we do not want a child of six to talk like a child of
+twelve, or a child of twelve to talk like a man of fifty, or even a man
+of fifty to talk like a fool. And on the principle of hoping that a
+little girl of six will have a massive and mature brain, there is every
+reason for hoping that a little boy of six will grow a magnificent and
+bushy beard.
+
+Now there is any amount of this nonsense cropping up among American
+cranks. Anybody may propose to establish coercive Eugenics; or enforce
+psychoanalysis--that is, enforce confession without absolution. And I
+confess I cannot connect this feature with the genuine democratic spirit
+of the mass. I can only suggest, in concluding this chapter, two
+possible causes rather peculiar to America, which may have made this
+great democracy so unlike all other democracies, and in this so
+manifestly hostile to the whole democratic idea.
+
+The first historical cause is Puritanism; but not Puritanism merely in
+the sense of Prohibitionism. The truth is that prohibitions might have
+done far less harm as prohibitions, if a vague association had not
+arisen, on some dark day of human unreason, between prohibition and
+progress. And it was the progress that did the harm, not the
+prohibition. Men can enjoy life under considerable limitations, if they
+can be sure of their limited enjoyments; but under Progressive
+Puritanism we can never be sure of anything. The curse of it is not
+limitation; it is unlimited limitation. The evil is not in the
+restriction; but in the fact that nothing can ever restrict the
+restriction. The prohibitions are bound to progress point by point; more
+and more human rights and pleasures must of necessity be taken away; for
+it is of the nature of this futurism that the latest fad is the faith of
+the future, and the most fantastic fad inevitably makes the pace. Thus
+the worst thing in the seventeenth-century aberration was not so much
+Puritanism as sectarianism. It searched for truth not by synthesis but
+by subdivision. It not only broke religion into small pieces, but it was
+bound to choose the smallest piece. There is in America, I believe, a
+large religious body that has felt it right to separate itself from
+Christendom because it cannot believe in the morality of wearing
+buttons. I do not know how the schism arose; but it is easy to suppose,
+for the sake of argument, that there had originally existed some Puritan
+body which condemned the frivolity of ribbons though not of buttons. I
+was going to say of badges but not buttons; but on reflection I cannot
+bring myself to believe that any American, however insane, would object
+to wearing badges. But the point is that as the holy spirit of
+progressive prophesy rested on the first sect because it had invented a
+new objection to ribbons, so that holy spirit would then pass from it to
+the new sect who invented a further objection to buttons. And from them
+it must inevitably pass to any rebel among them who shall choose to rise
+and say that he disapproves of trousers because of the existence of
+trouser-buttons. Each secession in turn must be right because it is
+recent, and progress must progress by growing smaller and smaller. That
+is the progressive theory, the legacy of seventeenth-century
+sectarianism, the dogma implied in much modern politics, and the evident
+enemy of democracy. Democracy is reproached with saying that the
+majority is always right. But progress says that the minority is always
+right. Progressives are prophets; and fortunately not all the people are
+prophets. Thus in the atmosphere of this slowly dying sectarianism
+anybody who chooses to prophesy and prohibit can tyrannise over the
+people. If he chooses to say that drinking is always wrong, or that
+kissing is always wrong, or that wearing buttons is always wrong, people
+are afraid to contradict him for fear they should be contradicting their
+own great-grandchild. For their superstition is an inversion of the
+ancestor-worship of China; and instead of vainly appealing to something
+that is dead, they appeal to something that may never be born.
+
+There is another cause of this strange servile disease in American
+democracy. It is to be found in American feminism, and feminist America
+is an entirely different thing from feminine America. I should say that
+the overwhelming majority of American girls laugh at their female
+politicians at least as much as the majority of American men despise
+their male politicians. But though the aggressive feminists are a
+minority, they are in this atmosphere which I have tried to analyse; the
+atmosphere in which there is a sort of sanctity about the minority. And
+it is this superstition of seriousness that constitutes the most solid
+obstacle and exception to the general and almost conventional pressure
+of public opinion. When a fad is frankly felt to be anti-national, as
+was Abolitionism before the Civil War, or Pro-Germanism in the Great
+War, or the suggestion of racial admixture in the South at all times,
+then the fad meets far less mercy than anywhere else in the world; it is
+snowed under and swept away. But when it does not thus directly
+challenge patriotism or popular ideas, a curious halo of hopeful
+solemnity surrounds it, merely because it is a fad, but above all if it
+is a feminine fad. The earnest lady-reformer who really utters a warning
+against the social evil of beer or buttons is seen to be walking clothed
+in light, like a prophetess. Perhaps it is something of the holy aureole
+which the East sees shining around an idiot.
+
+But I think there is another explanation, feminine rather than feminist,
+and proceeding from normal women and not from abnormal idiots. It is
+something that involves an old controversy, but one upon which I have
+not, like so many politicians, changed my opinion. It concerns the
+particular fashion in which women tend to regard, or rather to
+disregard, the formal and legal rights of the citizen. In so far as this
+is a bias, it is a bias in the directly opposite direction from that now
+lightly alleged. There is a sort of underbred history going about,
+according to which women in the past have always been in the position of
+slaves. It is much more to the point to note that women have always been
+in the position of despots. They have been despotic because they ruled
+in an area where they had too much common sense to attempt to be
+constitutional. You cannot grant a constitution to a nursery; nor can
+babies assemble like barons and extort a Great Charter. Tommy cannot
+plead a Habeas Corpus against going to bed; and an infant cannot be
+tried by twelve other infants before he is put in the corner. And as
+there can be no laws or liberties in a nursery, the extension of
+feminism means that there shall be no more laws or liberties in a state
+than there are in a nursery. The woman does not really regard men as
+citizens but as children. She may, if she is a humanitarian, love all
+mankind; but she does not respect it. Still less does she respect its
+votes. Now a man must be very blind nowadays not to see that there is a
+danger of a sort of amateur science or pseudo-science being made the
+excuse for every trick of tyranny and interference. Anybody who is not
+an anarchist agrees with having a policeman at the corner of the street;
+but the danger at present is that of finding the policeman half-way down
+the chimney or even under the bed. In other words, it is a danger of
+turning the policeman into a sort of benevolent burglar. Against this
+protests are already being made, and will increasingly be made, if men
+retain any instinct of independence or dignity at all. But to complain
+of the woman interfering in the home will always sound like complaining
+of the oyster intruding into the oyster-shell. To object that she has
+too much power over education will seem like objecting to a hen having
+too much to do with eggs. She has already been given an almost
+irresponsible power over a limited region in these things; and if that
+power is made infinite it will be even more irresponsible. If she adds
+to her own power in the family all these alien fads external to the
+family, her power will not only be irresponsible but insane. She will be
+something which may well be called a nightmare of the nursery; a mad
+mother. But the point is that she will be mad about other nurseries as
+well as her own, or possibly instead of her own. The results will be
+interesting; but at least it is certain that under this softening
+influence government of the people, by the people, for the people, will
+most assuredly perish from the earth.
+
+But there is always another possibility. Hints of it may be noted here
+and there like muffled gongs of doom. The other day some people
+preaching some low trick or other, for running away from the glory of
+motherhood, were suddenly silenced in New York; by a voice of deep and
+democratic volume. The prigs who potter about the great plains are
+pygmies dancing round a sleeping giant. That which sleeps, so far as
+they are concerned, is the huge power of human unanimity and intolerance
+in the soul of America. At present the masses in the Middle West are
+indifferent to such fancies or faintly attracted by them, as fashions of
+culture from the great cities. But any day it may not be so; some
+lunatic may cut across their economic rights or their strange and buried
+religion; and then he will see something. He will find himself running
+like a nigger who has wronged a white woman or a man who has set the
+prairie on fire. He will see something which the politicians fan in its
+sleep and flatter with the name of the people, which many reactionaries
+have cursed with the name of the mob, but which in any case has had
+under its feet the crowns of many kings. It was said that the voice of
+the people is the voice of God; and this at least is certain, that it
+can be the voice of God to the wicked. And the last antics of their
+arrogance shall stiffen before something enormous, such as towers in the
+last words that Job heard out of the whirlwind; and a voice they never
+knew shall tell them that his name is Leviathan, and he is lord over all
+the children of pride.
+
+
+
+
+_The Extraordinary American_
+
+
+When I was in America I had the feeling that it was far more foreign
+than France or even than Ireland. And by foreign I mean fascinating
+rather than repulsive. I mean that element of strangeness which marks
+the frontier of any fairyland, or gives to the traveller himself the
+almost eerie title of the stranger. And I saw there more clearly than in
+countries counted as more remote from us, in race or religion, a paradox
+that is one of the great truths of travel.
+
+We have never even begun to understand a people until we have found
+something that we do not understand. So long as we find the character
+easy to read, we are reading into it our own character. If when we see
+an event we can promptly provide an explanation, we may be pretty
+certain that we had ourselves prepared the explanation before we saw the
+event. It follows from this that the best picture of a foreign people
+can probably be found in a puzzle picture. If we can find an event of
+which the meaning is really dark to us, it will probably throw some
+light on the truth. I will therefore take from my American experiences
+one isolated incident, which certainly could not have happened in any
+other country I have ever clapped eyes on. I have really no notion of
+what it meant. I have heard even from Americans about five different
+conjectures about its meaning. But though I do not understand it, I do
+sincerely believe that if I did understand it, I should understand
+America.
+
+It happened in the city of Oklahoma, which would require a book to
+itself, even considered as a background. The State of Oklahoma is a
+district in the south-west recently reclaimed from the Red Indian
+territory. What many, quite incorrectly, imagine about all America is
+really true of Oklahoma. It is proud of having no history. It is glowing
+with the sense of having a great future--and nothing else. People are
+just as likely to boast of an old building in Nashville as in Norwich;
+people are just as proud of old families in Boston as in Bath. But in
+Oklahoma the citizens do point out a colossal structure, arrogantly
+affirming that it wasn't there last week. It was against the colours of
+this crude stage scenery, as of a pantomime city of pasteboard, that the
+fantastic figure appeared which still haunts me like a walking note of
+interrogation. I was strolling down the main street of the city, and
+looking in at a paper-stall vivid with the news of crime, when a
+stranger addressed me; and asked me, quite politely but with a curious
+air of having authority to put the question, what I was doing in that
+city.
+
+He was a lean brown man, having rather the look of a shabby tropical
+traveller, with a grey moustache and a lively and alert eye. But the
+most singular thing about him was that the front of his coat was covered
+with a multitude of shining metallic emblems made in the shape of stars
+and crescents. I was well accustomed by this time to Americans adorning
+the lapels of their coats with little symbols of various societies; it
+is a part of the American passion for the ritual of comradeship. There
+is nothing that an American likes so much as to have a secret society
+and to make no secret of it. But in this case, if I may put it so, the
+rash of symbolism seemed to have broken out all over the man, in a
+fashion that indicated that the fever was far advanced. Of this minor
+mystery, however, his first few sentences offered a provisional
+explanation. In answer to his question, touching my business in
+Oklahoma, I replied with restraint that I was lecturing. To which he
+replied without restraint, but rather with an expansive and radiant
+pride, 'I also am lecturing. I am lecturing on astronomy.'
+
+So far a certain wild rationality seemed to light up the affair. I knew
+it was unusual, in my own country, for the Astronomer Royal to walk down
+the Strand with his coat plastered all over with the Solar System.
+Indeed, it was unusual for any English astronomical lecturer to
+advertise the subject of his lectures in this fashion. But though it
+would be unusual, it would not necessarily be unreasonable. In fact, I
+think it might add to the colour and variety of life, if specialists did
+adopt this sort of scientific heraldry. I should like to be able to
+recognise an entomologist at sight by the decorative spiders and
+cockroaches crawling all over his coat and waistcoat. I should like to
+see a conchologist in a simple costume of shells. An osteopath, I
+suppose, would be agreeably painted so as to resemble a skeleton, while
+a botanist would enliven the street with the appearance of a
+Jack-in-the-Green. So while I regarded the astronomical lecturer in the
+astronomical coat as a figure distinguishable, by a high degree of
+differentiation, from the artless astronomers of my island home (enough
+their simple loveliness for me) I saw in him nothing illogical, but
+rather an imaginative extreme of logic. And then came another turn of
+the wheel of topsy-turvydom, and all the logic was scattered to the
+wind.
+
+Expanding his starry bosom and standing astraddle, with the air of one
+who owned the street, the strange being continued, 'Yes, I am lecturing
+on astronomy, anthropology, archaeology, palaeontology, embryology,
+eschatology,' and so on in a thunderous roll of theoretical sciences
+apparently beyond the scope of any single university, let alone any
+single professor. Having thus introduced himself, however, he got to
+business. He apologised with true American courtesy for having
+questioned me at all, and excused it on the ground of his own exacting
+responsibilities. I imagined him to mean the responsibility of
+simultaneously occupying the chairs of all the faculties already
+mentioned. But these apparently were trifles to him, and something far
+more serious was clouding his brow.
+
+'I feel it to be my duty,' he said, 'to acquaint myself with any
+stranger visiting this city; and it is an additional pleasure to welcome
+here a member of the Upper Ten.' I assured him earnestly that I knew
+nothing about the Upper Ten, except that I did not belong to them; I
+felt, not without alarm, that the Upper Ten might be another secret
+society. He waved my abnegation aside and continued, 'I have a great
+responsibility in watching over this city. My friend the mayor and I
+have a great responsibility.' And then an extraordinary thing happened.
+Suddenly diving his hand into his breast-pocket, he flashed something
+before my eyes like a hand-mirror; something which disappeared again
+almost as soon as it appeared. In that flash I could only see that it
+was some sort of polished metal plate, with some letters engraved on it
+like a monogram. But the reward of a studious and virtuous life, which
+has been spent chiefly in the reading of American detective stories,
+shone forth for me in that hour of trial; I received at last the prize
+of a profound scholarship in the matter of imaginary murders in
+tenth-rate magazines. I remembered who it was who in the Yankee
+detective yarn flashes before the eyes of Slim Jim or the Lone Hand
+Crook a badge of metal sometimes called a shield. Assuming all the
+desperate composure of Slim Jim himself, I replied, 'You mean you are
+connected with the police authorities here, don't you? Well, if I commit
+a murder here, I'll let you know.' Whereupon that astonishing man waved
+a hand in deprecation, bowed in farewell with the grace of a dancing
+master; and said, 'Oh, those are not things we expect from members of
+the Upper Ten.'
+
+Then that moving constellation moved away, disappearing in the dark
+tides of humanity, as the vision passed away down the dark tides from
+Sir Galahad and, starlike, mingled with the stars.
+
+That is the problem I would put to all Americans, and to all who claim
+to understand America. Who and what was that man? Was he an astronomer?
+Was he a detective? Was he a wandering lunatic? If he was a lunatic who
+thought he was an astronomer, why did he have a badge to prove he was a
+detective? If he was a detective pretending to be an astronomer, why did
+he tell a total stranger that he was a detective two minutes after
+saying he was an astronomer? If he wished to watch over the city in a
+quiet and unobtrusive fashion, why did he blazon himself all over with
+all the stars of the sky, and profess to give public lectures on all the
+subjects of the world? Every wise and well-conducted student of murder
+stories is acquainted with the notion of a policeman in plain clothes.
+But nobody could possibly say that this gentleman was in plain clothes.
+Why not wear his uniform, if he was resolved to show every stranger in
+the street his badge? Perhaps after all he had no uniform; for these
+lands were but recently a wild frontier rudely ruled by vigilance
+committees. Some Americans suggested to me that he was the Sheriff; the
+regular hard-riding, free-shooting Sheriff of Bret Harte and my
+boyhood's dreams. Others suggested that he was an agent of the Ku-Klux
+Klan, that great nameless revolution of the revival of which there were
+rumours at the time; and that the symbol he exhibited was theirs. But
+whether he was a sheriff acting for the law, or a conspirator against
+the law, or a lunatic entirely outside the law, I agree with the former
+conjectures upon one point. I am perfectly certain he had something else
+in his pocket besides a badge. And I am perfectly certain that under
+certain circumstances he would have handled it instantly, and shot me
+dead between the gay bookstall and the crowded trams. And that is the
+last touch to the complexity; for though in that country it often seems
+that the law is made by a lunatic, you never know when the lunatic may
+not shoot you for keeping it. Only in the presence of that citizen of
+Oklahoma I feel I am confronted with the fullness and depth of the
+mystery of America. Because I understand nothing, I recognise the thing
+that we call a nation; and I salute the flag.
+
+But even in connection with this mysterious figure there is a moral
+which affords another reason for mentioning him. Whether he was a
+sheriff or an outlaw, there was certainly something about him that
+suggested the adventurous violence of the old border life of America;
+and whether he was connected with the police or no, there was certainly
+violence enough in his environment to satisfy the most ardent policeman.
+The posters in the paper-shop were placarded with the verdict in the
+Hamon trial; a _cause célčbre_ which reached its crisis in Oklahoma
+while I was there. Senator Hamon had been shot by a girl whom he had
+wronged, and his widow demanded justice, or what might fairly be called
+vengeance. There was very great excitement culminating in the girl's
+acquittal. Nor did the Hamon case appear to be entirely exceptional in
+that breezy borderland. The moment the town had received the news that
+Clara Smith was free, newsboys rushed down the street shouting, 'Double
+stabbing outrage near Oklahoma,' or 'Banker's throat cut on Main
+Street,' or otherwise resuming their regular mode of life. It seemed as
+much as to say, 'Do not imagine that our local energies are exhausted in
+shooting a Senator,' or 'Come, now, the world is young, even if Clara
+Smith is acquitted, and the enthusiasm of Oklahoma is not yet cold.'
+
+But my particular reason for mentioning the matter is this. Despite my
+friend's mystical remarks about the Upper Ten, he lived in an atmosphere
+of something that was at least the very reverse of a respect for
+persons. Indeed, there was something in the very crudity of his social
+compliment that smacked, strangely enough, of that egalitarian soil. In
+a vaguely aristocratic country like England, people would never dream
+of telling a total stranger that he was a member of the Upper Ten. For
+one thing, they would be afraid that he might be. Real snobbishness is
+never vulgar; for it is intended to please the refined. Nobody licks the
+boots of a duke, if only because the duke does not like his boots
+cleaned in that way. Nobody embraces the knees of a marquis, because it
+would embarrass that nobleman. And nobody tells him he is a member of
+the Upper Ten, because everybody is expected to know it. But there is a
+much more subtle kind of snobbishness pervading the atmosphere of any
+society trial in England. And the first thing that struck me was the
+total absence of that atmosphere in the trial at Oklahoma. Mr. Hamon was
+presumably a member of the Upper Ten, if there is such a thing. He was a
+member of the Senate or Upper House in the American Parliament; he was a
+millionaire and a pillar of the Republican party, which might be called
+the respectable party; he is said to have been mentioned as a possible
+President. And the speeches of Clara Smith's counsel, who was known by
+the delightfully Oklahomite title of Wild Bill McLean, were wild enough
+in all conscience; but they left very little of my friend's illusion
+that members of the Upper Ten could not be accused of crimes. Nero and
+Borgia were quite presentable people compared with Senator Hamon when
+Wild Bill McLean had done with him. But the difference was deeper, and
+even in a sense more delicate than this. There is a certain tone about
+English trials, which does at least begin with a certain scepticism
+about people prominent in public life being abominable in private life.
+People do vaguely doubt the criminality of 'a man in that position';
+that is, the position of the Marquise de Brinvilliers or the Marquis de
+Sade. _Prima facie_, it would be an advantage to the Marquis de Sade
+that he was a marquis. But it was certainly against Hamon that he was a
+millionaire. Wild Bill did not minimise him as a bankrupt or an
+adventurer; he insisted on the solidity and size of his fortune, he made
+mountains out of the 'Hamon millions,' as if they made the matter much
+worse; as indeed I think they do. But that is because I happen to share
+a certain political philosophy with Wild Bill and other wild buffaloes
+of the prairies. In other words, there is really present here a
+democratic instinct against the domination of wealth. It does not
+prevent wealth from dominating; but it does prevent the domination from
+being regarded with any affection or loyalty. Despite the man in the
+starry coat, the Americans have not really any illusions about the Upper
+Ten. McLean was appealing to an implicit public opinion when he pelted
+the Senator with his gold.
+
+But something more is involved. I became conscious, as I have been
+conscious in reading the crime novels of America, that the millionaire
+was taken as a type and not an individual. This is the great difference;
+that America recognises rich crooks as a _class_. Any Englishman might
+recognise them as individuals. Any English romance may turn on a crime
+in high life; in which the baronet is found to have poisoned his wife,
+or the elusive burglar turns out to be the bishop. But the English are
+not always saying, either in romance or reality, 'What's to be done, if
+our food is being poisoned by all these baronets?' They do not murmur in
+indignation, 'If bishops will go on burgling like this, something must
+be done.' The whole point of the English romance is the exceptional
+character of a crime in high life. That is not the tone of American
+novels or American newspapers or American trials like the trial in
+Oklahoma. Americans may be excited when a millionaire crook is caught,
+as when any other crook is caught; but it is at his being caught, not at
+his being discovered. To put the matter shortly, England recognises a
+criminal class at the bottom of the social scale. America also
+recognises a criminal class at the top of the social scale. In both, for
+various reasons, it may be difficult for the criminals to be convicted;
+but in America the upper class of criminals is recognised. In both
+America and England, of course, it exists.
+
+This is an assumption at the back of the American mind which makes a
+great difference in many ways; and in my opinion a difference for the
+better. I wrote merely fancifully just now about bishops being burglars;
+but there is a story in New York, illustrating this, which really does
+in a sense attribute a burglary to a bishop. The story was that an
+Anglican Lord Spiritual, of the pompous and now rather antiquated
+school, was pushing open the door of a poor American tenement with all
+the placid patronage of the squire and rector visiting the cottagers,
+when a gigantic Irish policeman came round the corner and hit him a
+crack over the head with a truncheon on the assumption that he was a
+house-breaker. I hope that those who laugh at the story see that the
+laugh is not altogether against the policeman; and that it is not only
+the policeman, but rather the bishop, who had failed to recognise some
+fine logical distinctions. The bishop, being a learned man, might well
+be called upon (when he had sufficiently recovered from the knock on
+the head) to define what is the exact difference between a house-breaker
+and a home-visitor; and why the home-visitor should not be regarded as a
+house-breaker when he will not behave as a guest. An impartial
+intelligence will be much less shocked at the policeman's disrespect for
+the home-visitor than by the home-visitor's disrespect for the home.
+
+But that story smacks of the western soil, precisely because of the
+element of brutality there is in it. In England snobbishness and social
+oppression are much subtler and softer; the manifestations of them at
+least are more mellow and humane. In comparison there is indeed
+something which people call ruthless about the air of America,
+especially the American cities. The bishop may push open the door
+without an apology, but he would not break open the door with a
+truncheon; but the Irish policeman's truncheon hits both ways. It may be
+brutal to the tenement dweller as well as to the bishop; but the
+difference and distinction is that it might really be brutal to the
+bishop. It is because there is after all, at the back of all that
+barbarism, a sort of a negative belief in the brotherhood of men, a dark
+democratic sense that men are really men and nothing more, that the
+coarse and even corrupt bureaucracy is not resented exactly as
+oligarchic bureaucracies are resented. There is a sense in which
+corruption is not so narrow as nepotism. It is upon this queer cynical
+charity, and even humility, that it has been possible to rear so high
+and uphold so long that tower of brass, Tammany Hall. The modern police
+system is in spirit the most inhuman in history, and its evil belongs
+to an age and not to a nation. But some American police methods are evil
+past all parallel; and the detective can be more crooked than a hundred
+crooks. But in the States it is not only possible that the policeman is
+worse than the convict, it is by no means certain that he thinks that he
+is any better. In the popular stories of O. Henry there are light
+allusions to tramps being kicked out of hotels which will make any
+Christian seek relief in strong language and a trust in heaven--not to
+say in hell. And yet books even more popular than O. Henry's are those
+of the 'sob-sisterhood' who swim in lachrymose lakes after love-lorn
+spinsters, who pass their lives in reclaiming and consoling such tramps.
+There are in this people two strains of brutality and sentimentalism
+which I do not understand, especially where they mingle; but I am fairly
+sure they both work back to the dim democratic origin. The Irish
+policeman does not confine himself fastidiously to bludgeoning bishops;
+his truncheon finds plenty of poor people's heads to hit; and yet I
+believe on my soul he has a sort of sympathy with poor people not to be
+found in the police of more aristocratic states. I believe he also reads
+and weeps over the stories of the spinsters and the reclaimed tramps; in
+fact, there is much of such pathos in an American magazine (my sole
+companion on many happy railway journeys) which is not only devoted to
+detective stories, but apparently edited by detectives. In these stories
+also there is the honest, popular astonishment at the Upper Ten
+expressed by the astronomical detective, if indeed he was a detective
+and not a demon from the dark Red-Indian forests that faded to the
+horizon behind him. But I have set him as the head and text of this
+chapter because with these elements of the Third Degree of devilry and
+the Seventh Heaven of sentimentalism I touch on elements that I do not
+understand; and when I do not understand, I say so.
+
+
+
+
+_The Republican in the Ruins_
+
+
+The heathen in his blindness bows down to wood and stone; especially to
+a wood-cut or a lithographic stone. Modern people put their trust in
+pictures, especially scientific pictures, as much as the most
+superstitious ever put it in religious pictures. They publish a portrait
+of the Missing Link as if he were the Missing Man, for whom the police
+are always advertising; for all the world as if the anthropoid had been
+photographed before he absconded. The scientific diagram may be a
+hypothesis; it may be a fancy; it may be a forgery. But it is always an
+idol in the true sense of an image; and an image in the true sense of a
+thing mastering the imagination and not the reason. The power of these
+talismanic pictures is almost hypnotic to modern humanity. We can never
+forget that we have seen a portrait of the Missing Link; though we
+should instantly detect the lapse of logic into superstition, if we were
+told that the old Greek agnostics had made a statue of the Unknown God.
+But there is a still stranger fashion in which we fall victims to the
+same trick of fancy. We accept in a blind and literal spirit, not only
+images of speculation, but even figures of speech. The nineteenth
+century prided itself on having lost its faith in myths, and proceeded
+to put all its faith in metaphors. It dismissed the old doctrines about
+the way of life and the light of the world; and then it proceeded to
+talk as if the light of truth were really and literally a light, that
+could be absorbed by merely opening our eyes; or as if the path of
+progress were really and truly a path, to be found by merely following
+our noses. Thus the purpose of God is an idea, true or false; but the
+purpose of Nature is merely a metaphor; for obviously if there is no God
+there is no purpose. Yet while men, by an imaginative instinct, spoke of
+the purpose of God with a grand agnosticism, as something too large to
+be seen, something reaching out to worlds and to eternities, they speak
+of the purpose of Nature in particular and practical problems of curing
+babies or cutting up rabbits. This power of the modern metaphor must be
+understood, by way of an introduction, if we are to understand one of
+the chief errors, at once evasive and pervasive, which perplex the
+problem of America.
+
+America is always spoken of as a young nation; and whether or no this be
+a valuable and suggestive metaphor, very few people notice that it is a
+metaphor at all. If somebody said that a certain deserving charity had
+just gone into trousers, we should recognise that it was a figure of
+speech, and perhaps a rather surprising figure of speech. If somebody
+said that a daily paper had recently put its hair up, we should know it
+could only be a metaphor, and possibly a rather strained metaphor. Yet
+these phrases would mean the only thing that can possibly be meant by
+calling a corporate association of all sorts of people 'young'; that is,
+that a certain institution has only existed for a certain time. I am not
+now denying that such a corporate nationality may happen to have a
+psychology comparatively analogous to the psychology of youth. I am not
+even denying that America has it. I am only pointing out, to begin with,
+that we must free ourselves from the talismanic tyranny of a metaphor
+which we do not recognise as a metaphor. Men realised that the old
+mystical doctrines were mystical; they do not realise that the new
+metaphors are metaphorical. They have some sort of hazy notion that
+American society must be growing, must be promising, must have the
+virtues of hope or the faults of ignorance, merely _because_ it has only
+had a separate existence since the eighteenth century. And that is
+exactly like saying that a new chapel must be growing taller, or that a
+limited liability company will soon have its second teeth.
+
+Now in truth this particular conception of American hopefulness would be
+anything but hopeful for America. If the argument really were, as it is
+still vaguely supposed to be, that America must have a long life before
+it, because it only started in the eighteenth century, we should find a
+very fatal answer by looking at the other political systems that did
+start in the eighteenth century. The eighteenth century was called the
+Age of Reason; and there is a very real sense in which the other systems
+were indeed started in a spirit of reason. But starting from reason has
+not saved them from ruin. If we survey the Europe of to-day with real
+clarity and historic comprehension, we shall see that it is precisely
+the most recent and the most rationalistic creations that have been
+ruined. The two great States which did most definitely and emphatically
+deserve to be called modern states were Prussia and Russia. There was no
+real Prussia before Frederick the Great; no real Russian Empire before
+Peter the Great. Both those innovators recognised themselves as
+rationalists bringing a new reason and order into an indeterminate
+barbarism; and doing for the barbarians what the barbarians could not do
+for themselves. They did not, like the kings of England or France or
+Spain or Scotland, inherit a sceptre that was the symbol of a historic
+and patriotic people. In this sense there was no Russia but only an
+Emperor of Russia. In this sense Prussia was a kingdom before it was a
+nation; if it ever was a nation. But anyhow both men were particularly
+modern in their whole mood and mind. They were modern to the extent of
+being not only anti-traditional, but almost anti-patriotic. Peter forced
+the science of the West on Russia to the regret of many Russians.
+Frederick talked the French of Voltaire and not the German of Luther.
+The two experiments were entirely in the spirit of Voltairean
+rationalism; they were built in broad daylight by men who believed in
+nothing but the light of common day; and already their day is done.
+
+If then the promise of America were in the fact that she is one of the
+latest births of progress, we should point out that it is exactly the
+latest born that were the first to die. If in this sense she is praised
+as young, it may be answered that the young have died young, and have
+not lived to be old. And if this be confused with the argument that she
+came in an age of clarity and scepticism, uncontaminated by old
+superstitions, it could still be retorted that the works of superstition
+have survived the works of scepticism. But the truth is, of course, that
+the real quality of America is much more subtle and complex than this;
+and is mixed not only of good and bad, and rational and mystical, but
+also of old and new. That is what makes the task of tracing the true
+proportions of American life so interesting and so impossible.
+
+To begin with, such a metaphor is always as distracting as a mixed
+metaphor. It is a double-edged tool that cuts both ways; and
+consequently opposite ways. We use the same word 'young' to mean two
+opposite extremes. We mean something at an early stage of growth, and
+also something having the latest fruits of growth. We might call a
+commonwealth young if it conducted all its daily conversation by
+wireless telegraphy; meaning that it was progressive. But we might also
+call it young if it conducted all its industry with chipped flints;
+meaning that it was primitive. These two meanings of youth are
+hopelessly mixed up when the word is applied to America. But what is
+more curious, the two elements really are wildly entangled in America.
+America is in some ways what is called in advance of the times, and in
+some ways what is called behind the times; but it seems a little
+confusing to convey both notions by the same word.
+
+On the one hand, Americans often are successful in the last inventions.
+And for that very reason they are often neglectful of the last but one.
+It is true of men in general, dealing with things in general, that while
+they are progressing in one thing, such as science, they are going back
+in another thing, such as art. What is less fully realised is that this
+is true even as between different methods of science. The perfection of
+wireless telegraphy might well be followed by the gross imperfection of
+wires. The very enthusiasm of American science brings this out very
+vividly. The telephone in New York works miracles all day long. Replies
+from remote places come as promptly as in a private talk; nobody cuts
+anybody off; nobody says, 'Sorry you've been troubled.' But then the
+postal service of New York does not work at all. At least I could never
+discover it working. Letters lingered in it for days and days, as in
+some wild village of the Pyrenees. When I asked a taxi-driver to drive
+me to a post-office, a look of far-off vision and adventure came into
+his eyes, and he said he had once heard of a post-office somewhere near
+West Ninety-Seventh Street. Men are not efficient in everything, but
+only in the fashionable thing. This may be a mark of the march of
+science; it does certainly in one sense deserve the description of
+youth. We can imagine a very young person forgetting the old toy in the
+excitement of a new one.
+
+But on the other hand, American manners contain much that is called
+young in the contrary sense; in the sense of an earlier stage of
+history. There are whole patches and particular aspects that seem to me
+quite Early Victorian. I cannot help having this sensation, for
+instance, about the arrangement for smoking in the railway carriages.
+There are no smoking carriages, as a rule; but a corner of each of the
+great cars is curtained off mysteriously, that a man may go behind the
+curtain and smoke. Nobody thinks of a woman doing so. It is regarded as
+a dark, bohemian, and almost brutally masculine indulgence; exactly as
+it was regarded by the dowagers in Thackeray's novels. Indeed, this is
+one of the many such cases in which extremes meet; the extremes of
+stuffy antiquity and cranky modernity. The American dowager is sorry
+that tobacco was ever introduced; and the American suffragette and
+social reformer is considering whether tobacco ought not to be
+abolished. The tone of American society suggests some sort of
+compromise, by which women will be allowed to smoke, but men forbidden
+to do so.
+
+In one respect, however, America is very old indeed. In one respect
+America is more historic than England; I might almost say more
+archaeological than England. The record of one period of the past,
+morally remote and probably irrevocable, is there preserved in a more
+perfect form as a pagan city is preserved at Pompeii. In a more general
+sense, of course, it is easy to exaggerate the contrast as a mere
+contrast between the old world and the new. There is a superficial
+satire about the millionaire's daughter who has recently become the wife
+of an aristocrat; but there is a rather more subtle satire in the
+question of how long the aristocrat has been aristocratic. There is
+often much misplaced mockery of a marriage between an upstart's daughter
+and a decayed relic of feudalism; when it is really a marriage between
+an upstart's daughter and an upstart's grandson. The sentimental
+socialist often seems to admit the blue blood of the nobleman, even when
+he wants to shed it; just as he seems to admit the marvellous brains of
+the millionaire, even when he wants to blow them out. Unfortunately (in
+the interests of social science, of course) the sentimental socialist
+never does go so far as bloodshed or blowing out brains; otherwise the
+colour and quality of both blood and brains would probably be a
+disappointment to him. There are certainly more American families that
+really came over in the _Mayflower_ than English families that really
+came over with the Conqueror; and an English county family clearly
+dating from the time of the _Mayflower_ would be considered a very
+traditional and historic house. Nevertheless, there are ancient things
+in England, though the aristocracy is hardly one of them. There are
+buildings, there are institutions, there are even ideas in England which
+do preserve, as in a perfect pattern, some particular epoch of the past,
+and even of the remote past. A man could study the Middle Ages in
+Lincoln as well as in Rouen; in Canterbury as well as in Cologne. Even
+of the Renaissance the same is true, at least on the literary side; if
+Shakespeare was later he was also greater than Ronsard. But the point is
+that the spirit and philosophy of the periods were present in fullness
+and in freedom. The guildsmen were as Christian in England as they were
+anywhere; the poets were as pagan in England as they were anywhere.
+Personally I do not admit that the men who served patrons were freer
+than those who served patron saints. But each fashion had its own kind
+of freedom; and the point is that the English, in each case, had the
+fullness of that kind of freedom. But there was another ideal of freedom
+which the English never had at all; or, anyhow, never expressed at all.
+There was another ideal, the soul of another epoch, round which we built
+no monuments and wrote no masterpieces. You will find no traces of it in
+England; but you will find them in America.
+
+The thing I mean was the real religion of the eighteenth century. Its
+religion, in the more defined sense, was generally Deism, as in
+Robespierre or Jefferson. In the more general way of morals and
+atmosphere it was rather Stoicism, as in the suicide of Wolfe Tone. It
+had certain very noble and, as some would say, impossible ideals; as
+that a politician should be poor, and should be proud of being poor. It
+knew Latin; and therefore insisted on the strange fancy that the
+Republic should be a public thing. Its Republican simplicity was
+anything but a silly pose; unless all martyrdom is a silly pose. Even of
+the prigs and fanatics of the American and French Revolutions we can
+often say, as Stevenson said of an American, that 'thrift and courage
+glowed in him.' And its virtue and value for us is that it did remember
+the things we now most tend to forget; from the dignity of liberty to
+the danger of luxury. It did really believe in self-determination, in
+the self-determination of the self, as well as of the state. And its
+determination was really determined. In short, it believed in
+self-respect; and it is strictly true even of its rebels and regicides
+that they desired chiefly to be respectable. But there were in it the
+marks of religion as well as respectability; it had a creed; it had a
+crusade. Men died singing its songs; men starved rather than write
+against its principles. And its principles were liberty, equality, and
+fraternity, or the dogmas of the Declaration of Independence. This was
+the idea that redeemed the dreary negations of the eighteenth century;
+and there are still corners of Philadelphia or Boston or Baltimore where
+we can feel so suddenly in the silence its plain garb and formal
+manners, that the walking ghost of Jefferson would hardly surprise us.
+
+There is not the ghost of such a thing in England. In England the real
+religion of the eighteenth century never found freedom or scope. It
+never cleared a space in which to build that cold and classic building
+called the Capitol. It never made elbow-room for that free if sometimes
+frigid figure called the Citizen.
+
+In eighteenth-century England he was crowded out, partly perhaps by the
+relics of better things of the past, but largely at least by the
+presence of much worse things in the present. The worst things kept out
+the best things of the eighteenth century. The ground was occupied by
+legal fictions; by a godless Erastian church and a powerless Hanoverian
+king. Its realities were an aristocracy of Regency dandies, in costumes
+made to match Brighton Pavilion; a paganism not frigid but florid. It
+was a touch of this aristocratic waste in Fox that prevented that great
+man from being a glorious exception. It is therefore well for us to
+realise that there is something in history which we did not experience;
+and therefore probably something in Americans that we do not understand.
+There was this idealism at the very beginning of their individualism.
+There was a note of heroic publicity and honourable poverty which
+lingers in the very name of Cincinnati.
+
+But I have another and special reason for noting this historical fact;
+the fact that we English never made anything upon the model of a
+capitol, while we can match anybody with the model of a cathedral. It is
+far from improbable that the latter model may again be a working model.
+For I have myself felt, naturally and for a long time, a warm sympathy
+with both those past ideals, which seem to some so incompatible. I have
+felt the attraction of the red cap as well as the red cross, of the
+Marseillaise as well as the Magnificat. And even when they were in
+furious conflict I have never altogether lost my sympathy for either.
+But in the conflict between the Republic[1] and the Church, the point
+often made against the Church seems to me much more of a point against
+the Republic. It is emphatically the Republic and not the Church that I
+venerate as something beautiful but belonging to the past. In fact I
+feel exactly the same sort of sad respect for the republican ideal that
+many mid-Victorian free-thinkers felt for the religious ideal. The most
+sincere poets of that period were largely divided between those who
+insisted, like Arnold and Clough, that Christianity might be a ruin, but
+after all it must be treated as a picturesque ruin; and those, like
+Swinburne, who insisted that it might be a picturesque ruin, but after
+all it must be treated as a ruin. But surely their own pagan temple of
+political liberty is now much more of a ruin than the other; and I fancy
+I am one of the few who still take off their hats in that ruined temple.
+That is why I went about looking for the fading traces of that lost
+cause, in the old-world atmosphere of the new world.
+
+But I do not, as a fact, feel that the cathedral is a ruin; I doubt if I
+should feel it even if I wished to lay it in ruins. I doubt if Mr.
+M'Cabe really thinks that Catholicism is dying, though he might deceive
+himself into saying so. Nobody could be naturally moved to say that the
+crowded cathedral of St. Patrick in New York was a ruin, or even that
+the unfinished Anglo-Catholic cathedral at Washington was a ruin, though
+it is not yet a church; or that there is anything lost or lingering
+about the splendid and spirited Gothic churches springing up under the
+inspiration of Mr. Cram of Boston. As a matter of feeling, as a matter
+of fact, as a matter quite apart from theory or opinion, it is not in
+the religious centres that we now have the feeling of something
+beautiful but receding, of something loved but lost. It is exactly in
+the spaces cleared and levelled by America for the large and sober
+religion of the eighteenth century; it is where an old house in
+Philadelphia contains an old picture of Franklin, or where the men of
+Maryland raised above their city the first monument of Washington. It is
+there that I feel like one who treads alone some banquet hall deserted,
+whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead, and all save he departed. It
+is then that I feel as if I were the last Republican.
+
+But when I say that the Republic of the Age of Reason is now a ruin, I
+should rather say that at its best it is a ruin. At its worst it has
+collapsed into a death-trap or is rotting like a dunghill. What is the
+real Republic of our day as distinct from the ideal Republic of our
+fathers, but a heap of corrupt capitalism crawling with worms; with
+those parasites, the professional politicians? I was re-reading
+Swinburne's bitter but not ignoble poem, 'Before a Crucifix,' in which
+he bids Christ, or the ecclesiastical image of Christ, stand out of the
+way of the onward march of a political idealism represented by United
+Italy or the French Republic. I was struck by the strange and ironic
+exactitude with which every taunt he flings at the degradation of the
+old divine ideal would now fit the degradation of his own human ideal.
+The time has already come when we can ask his Goddess of Liberty, as
+represented by the actual Liberals, 'Have _you_ filled full men's
+starved-out souls; have _you_ brought freedom on the earth?' For every
+engine in which these old free-thinkers firmly and confidently trusted
+has itself become an engine of oppression and even of class oppression.
+Its free parliament has become an oligarchy. Its free press has become a
+monopoly. If the pure Church has been corrupted in the course of two
+thousand years, what about the pure Republic that has rotted into a
+filthy plutocracy in less than a hundred?
+
+
+ O, hidden face of man, whereover
+ The years have woven a viewless veil,
+ If thou wert verily man's lover
+ What did thy love or blood avail?
+ Thy blood the priests make poison of;
+ And in gold shekels coin thy love.
+
+
+Which has most to do with shekels to-day, the priests or the
+politicians? Can we say in any special sense nowadays that clergymen, as
+such, make a poison out of the blood of the martyrs? Can we say it in
+anything like the real sense, in which we do say that yellow journalists
+make a poison out of the blood of the soldiers?
+
+But I understand how Swinburne felt when confronted by the image of the
+carven Christ, and, perplexed by the contrast between its claims and its
+consequences, he said his strange farewell to it, hastily indeed, but
+not without regret, not even really without respect. I felt the same
+myself when I looked for the last time on the Statue of Liberty.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] In the conclusion of this chapter I mean by the Republic
+not merely the American Republic, but the whole modern representative
+system, as in France or even in England.
+
+
+
+
+_Is the Atlantic Narrowing?_
+
+
+A certain kind of question is asked very earnestly in our time. Because
+of a certain logical quality in it, connected with premises and data, it
+is very difficult to answer. Thus people will ask what is the hidden
+weakness in the Celtic race that makes them everywhere fail or fade
+away; or how the Germans contrived to bring all their organisation into
+a state of such perfect efficiency; and what was the significance of the
+recent victory of Prussia. Or they will ask by what stages the modern
+world has abandoned all belief in miracles; and the modern newspapers
+ceased to print any news of murders. They will ask why English politics
+are free from corruption; or by what mental and moral training certain
+millionaires were enabled to succeed by sheer force of character; in
+short, they will ask why plutocrats govern well and how it is that pigs
+fly, spreading their pink pinions to the breeze or delighting us as they
+twitter and flutter from tree to tree. The logical difficulty of
+answering these questions is connected with an old story about Charles
+the Second and a bowl of goldfish, and with another anecdote about a
+gentleman who was asked, 'When did you leave off beating your wife?' But
+there is something analogous to it in the present discussions about the
+forces drawing England and America together. It seems as if the
+reasoners hardly went far enough back in their argument, or took
+trouble enough to disentangle their assumptions. They are still moving
+with the momentum of the peculiar nineteenth-century notion of progress;
+of certain very simple tendencies perpetually increasing and needing no
+special analysis. It is so with the international _rapprochement_ I have
+to consider here.
+
+In other places I have ventured to express a doubt about whether nations
+can be drawn together by an ancient rumour about races; by a sort of
+prehistoric chit-chat or the gossip of the Stone Age. I have ventured
+farther; and even expressed a doubt about whether they ought to be drawn
+together, or rather dragged together, by the brute violence of the
+engines of science and speed. But there is yet another horrible doubt
+haunting my morbid mind, which it will be better for my constitution to
+confess frankly. And that is the doubt about whether they are being
+drawn together at all.
+
+It has long been a conversational commonplace among the enlightened that
+all countries are coming closer and closer to each other. It was a
+conversational commonplace among the enlightened, somewhere about the
+year 1913, that all wars were receding farther and farther into a
+barbaric past. There is something about these sayings that seems simple
+and familiar and entirely satisfactory when we say them; they are of
+that consoling sort which we can say without any of the mental pain of
+thinking what we are saying. But if we turn our attention from the
+phrases we use to the facts that we talk about, we shall realise at
+least that there are a good many facts on the other side and examples
+pointing the other way. For instance, it does happen occasionally, from
+time to time, that people talk about Ireland. He would be a very
+hilarious humanitarian who should maintain that Ireland and England have
+been more and more assimilated during the last hundred years. The very
+name of Sinn Fein is an answer to it, and the very language in which
+that phrase is spoken. Curran and Sheil would no more have dreamed of
+uttering the watchword of 'Repeal' in Gaelic than of uttering it in
+Zulu. Grattan could hardly have brought himself to believe that the real
+repeal of the Union would actually be signed in London in the strange
+script as remote as the snaky ornament of the Celtic crosses. It would
+have seemed like Washington signing the Declaration of Independence in
+the picture-writing of the Red Indians. Ireland has clearly grown away
+from England; and her language, literature, and type of patriotism are
+far less English than they were. On the other hand, no one will pretend
+that the mass of modern Englishmen are much nearer to talking Gaelic or
+decorating Celtic crosses. A hundred years ago it was perfectly natural
+that Byron and Moore should walk down the street arm in arm. Even the
+sight of Mr. Rudyard Kipling and Mr. W. B. Yeats walking down the street
+arm in arm would now arouse some remark.
+
+I could give any number of other examples of the same new estrangement
+of nations. I could cite the obvious facts that Norway and Sweden parted
+company not very long ago, that Austria and Hungary have again become
+separate states. I could point to the mob of new nations that have
+started up after the war; to the fact that the great empires are now
+nearly all broken up; that the Russian Empire no longer directs Poland,
+that the Austrian Empire no longer directs Bohemia, that the Turkish
+Empire no longer directs Palestine. Sinn Fein is the separatism of the
+Irish. Zionism is the separatism of the Jews. But there is one simple
+and sufficing example, which is here more to my purpose, and is at least
+equally sufficient for it. And that is the deepening national difference
+between the Americans and the English.
+
+Let me test it first by my individual experience in the matter of
+literature. When I was a boy I read a book like _The Autocrat of the
+Breakfast-Table_ exactly as I read another book like _The Book of
+Snobs_. I did not think of it as an American book, but simply as a book.
+Its wit and idiom were like those of the English literary tradition; and
+its few touches of local colour seemed merely accidental, like those of
+an Englishman who happened to be living in Switzerland or Sweden. My
+father and my father's friends were rightly enthusiastic for the book;
+so that it seemed to come to me by inheritance like _Gulliver's Travels_
+or _Tristram Shandy_. Its language was as English as Ruskin, and a great
+deal more English than Carlyle. Well, I have seen in later years an
+almost equally wide and well-merited popularity of the stories of O.
+Henry. But never for one moment could I or any one else reading them
+forget that they were stories by an American about America. The very
+first fact about them is that they are told with an American accent,
+that is, in the unmistakable tones of a brilliant and fascinating
+foreigner. And the same is true of every other recent work of which the
+fame has managed to cross the Atlantic. We did not say that _The Spoon
+River Anthology_ was a new book, but that it was a new book from
+America. It was exactly as if a remarkable realistic novel was reported
+from Russia or Italy. We were in no danger of confusing it with the
+'Elegy in a Country Churchyard.' People in England who heard of Main
+Street were not likely to identify it with a High Street; with the
+principal thoroughfare in any little town in Berkshire or
+Buckinghamshire. But when I was a boy I practically identified the
+boarding-house of the Autocrat with any boarding-house I happened to
+know in Brompton or Brighton. No doubt there were differences; but the
+point is that the differences did not pierce the consciousness or prick
+the illusion. I said to myself, 'People are like this in
+boarding-houses,' not 'People are like this in Boston.'
+
+This can be seen even in the simple matter of language, especially in
+the sense of slang. Take, for instance, the delightful sketch in the
+causerie of Oliver Wendell Holmes; the character of the young man called
+John. He is the very modern type in every modern country who does
+specialise in slang. He is the young fellow who is something in the
+City; the everyday young man of the Gilbertian song, with a stick and a
+pipe and a half-bred black-and-tan. In every country he is at once witty
+and commonplace. In every country, therefore, he tends both to the
+vivacity and the vulgarity of slang. But when he appeared in Holmes's
+book, his language was not very different from what it would have been
+in a Brighton instead of a Boston boarding-house; or, in short, if the
+young man called John had more commonly been called 'Arry. If he had
+appeared in a modern American book, his language would have been almost
+literally unintelligible. At the least an Englishman would have had to
+read some of the best sentences twice, as he sometimes has to read the
+dizzy and involved metaphors of O. Henry. Nor is it an answer that this
+depended on the personalities of the particular writers. A comparison
+between the real journalism of the time of Holmes and the real
+journalism of the time of Henry reveals the same thing. It is the
+expansion of a slight difference of style into a luxuriant difference of
+idiom; and the process continued indefinitely would certainly produce a
+totally different language. After a few centuries the signatures of
+American ambassadors would look as fantastic as Gaelic, and the very
+name of the Republic be as strange as Sinn Fein.
+
+It is true that there has been on the surface a certain amount of give
+and take; or at least, as far as the English are concerned, of take
+rather than give. But it is true that it was once all the other way; and
+indeed the one thing is something like a just nemesis of the other.
+Indeed, the story of the reversal is somewhat singular, when we come to
+think of it. It began in a certain atmosphere and spirit of certain
+well-meaning people who talked about the English-speaking race; and were
+apparently indifferent to how the English was spoken, whether in the
+accent of a Jamaican negro or a convict from Botany Bay. It was their
+logical tendency to say that Dante was a Dago. It was their logical
+punishment to say that Disraeli was an Englishman. Now there may have
+been a period when this Anglo-American amalgamation included more or
+less equal elements from England and America. It never included the
+larger elements, or the more valuable elements of either. But, on the
+whole, I think it true to say that it was not an allotment but an
+interchange of parts; and that things first went all one way and then
+all the other. People began by telling the Americans that they owed all
+their past triumphs to England; which was false. They ended up by
+telling the English that they would owe all their future triumphs to
+America; which is if possible still more false. Because we chose to
+forget that New York had been New Amsterdam, we are now in danger of
+forgetting that London is not New York. Because we insisted that Chicago
+was only a pious imitation of Chiswick, we may yet see Chiswick an
+inferior imitation of Chicago. Our Anglo-Saxon historians attempted that
+conquest in which Howe and Burgoyne had failed, and with infinitely less
+justification on their side. They attempted the great crime of the
+Anglicisation of America. They have called down the punishment of the
+Americanisation of England. We must not murmur; but it is a heavy
+punishment.
+
+It may lift a little of its load, however, if we look at it more
+closely; we shall then find that though it is very much on top of us, it
+is only on top. In that sense such Americanisation as there is is very
+superficial. For instance, there is a certain amount of American slang
+picked up at random; it appears in certain pushing types of journalism
+and drama. But we may easily dwell too much on this tragedy; of people
+who have never spoken English beginning to speak American. I am far from
+suggesting that American, like any other foreign language, may not
+frequently contribute to the common culture of the world phrases for
+which there is no substitute; there are French phrases so used in
+England and English phrases in France. The word 'high-brow,' for
+instance, is a real discovery and revelation, a new and necessary name
+for something that walked nameless but enormous in the modern world, a
+shaft of light and a stroke of lightning. That comes from America and
+belongs to the world, as much as 'The Raven' or _The Scarlet Letter_ or
+the novels of Henry James belong to the world. In fact, I can imagine
+Henry James originating it in the throes of self-expression, and
+bringing out a word like 'high-browed,' with a sort of gentle jerk, at
+the end of searching sentences which groped sensitively until they found
+the phrase. But most of the American slang that is borrowed seems to be
+borrowed for no particular reason. It either has no point or the point
+is lost by translation into another context and culture. It is either
+something which does not need any grotesque and exaggerative
+description, or of which there already exists a grotesque and
+exaggerative description more native to our tongue and soil. For
+instance, I cannot see that the strong and simple expression 'Now it is
+for you to pull the police magistrate's nose' is in any way strengthened
+by saying, 'Now it is up to you to pull the police magistrate's nose.'
+When Tennyson says of the men of the Light Brigade 'Theirs but to do and
+die,' the expression seems to me perfectly lucid. 'Up to them to do and
+die' would alter the metre without especially clarifying the meaning.
+This is an example of ordinary language being quite adequate; but there
+is a further difficulty that even wild slang comes to sound like
+ordinary language. Very often the English have already as humorous and
+fanciful idiom of their own, only that through habit it has lost its
+humour. When Keats wrote the line, 'What pipes and timbrels, what wild
+ecstasy!' I am willing to believe that the American humorist would have
+expressed the same sentiment by beginning the sentence with 'Some
+pipe!' When that was first said, somewhere in the wilds of Colorado, it
+was really funny; involving a powerful understatement and the suggestion
+of a mere sample. If a spinster has informed us that she keeps a bird,
+and we find it is an ostrich, there will be considerable point in the
+Colorado satirist saying inquiringly, 'Some bird?' as if he were
+offering us a small slice of a small plover. But if we go back to this
+root and rationale of a joke, the English language already contains
+quite as good a joke. It is not necessary to say, 'Some bird'; there is
+a far finer irony in the old expression, 'Something like a bird.' It
+suggests that the speaker sees something faintly and strangely birdlike
+about a bird; that it remotely and almost irrationally reminds him of a
+bird; and that there is about ostrich plumes a yard long something like
+the faint and delicate traces of a feather. It has every quality of
+imaginative irony, except that nobody even imagines it to be ironical.
+All that happens is that people get tired of that turn of phrase, take
+up a foreign phrase and get tired of that, without realising the point
+of either. All that happens is that a number of weary people who used to
+say, 'Something like a bird,' now say, 'Some bird,' with undiminished
+weariness. But they might just as well use dull and decent English; for
+in both cases they are only using jocular language without seeing the
+joke.
+
+There is indeed a considerable trade in the transplantation of these
+American jokes to England just now. They generally pine and die in our
+climate, or they are dead before their arrival; but we cannot be certain
+that they were never alive. There is a sort of unending frieze or
+scroll of decorative designs unrolled ceaselessly before the British
+public, about a hen-pecked husband, which is indistinguishable to the
+eye from an actual self-repeating pattern like that of the Greek Key,
+but which is imported as if it were as precious and irreplaceable as the
+Elgin Marbles. Advertisement and syndication make mountains out of the
+most funny little mole-hills; but no doubt the mole-hills are
+picturesque enough in their own landscape. In any case there is nothing
+so national as humour; and many things, like many people, can be
+humorous enough when they are at home. But these American jokes are
+boomed as solemnly as American religions; and their supporters gravely
+testify that they are funny, without seeing the fun of it for a moment.
+This is partly perhaps the spirit of spontaneous institutionalism in
+American democracy, breaking out in the wrong place. They make humour an
+institution; and a man will be set to tell an anecdote as if to play the
+violin. But when the story is told in America it really is amusing; and
+when these jokes are reprinted in England they are often not even
+intelligible. With all the stupidity of the millionaire and the
+monopolist, the enterprising proprietor prints jokes in England which
+are necessarily unintelligible to nearly every English person; jokes
+referring to domestic and local conditions quite peculiar to America. I
+saw one of these narrative caricatures the other day in which the whole
+of the joke (what there was of it) turned on the astonishment of a
+housewife at the absurd notion of not having an ice-box. It is perfectly
+true that nearly every ordinary American housewife possesses an ice-box.
+An ordinary English housewife would no more expect to possess an
+ice-box than to possess an iceberg. And it would be about as sensible to
+tow an iceberg to an English port all the way from the North Pole, as to
+trail that one pale and frigid joke to Fleet Street all the way from the
+New York papers. It is the same with a hundred other advertisements and
+adaptations. I have already confessed that I took a considerable delight
+in the dancing illuminations of Broadway--in Broadway. Everything there
+is suitable to them, the vast interminable thoroughfare, the toppling
+houses, the dizzy and restless spirit of the whole city. It is a city of
+dissolving views, and one may almost say a city in everlasting
+dissolution. But I do not especially admire a burning fragment of
+Broadway stuck up opposite the old Georgian curve of Regent Street. I
+would as soon express sympathy with the Republic of Switzerland by
+erecting a small Alp, with imitation snow, in the middle of St. James's
+Park.
+
+But all this commercial copying is very superficial; and above all, it
+never copies anything that is really worth copying. Nations never
+_learn_ anything from each other in this way. We have many things to
+learn from America; but we only listen to those Americans who have still
+to learn them. Thus, for instance, we do not import the small farm but
+only the big shop. In other words, we hear nothing of the democracy of
+the Middle West, but everything of the plutocracy of the middleman, who
+is probably as unpopular in the Middle West as the miller in the Middle
+Ages. If Mr. Elihu K. Pike could be transplanted bodily from the
+neighbourhood of his home town of Marathon, Neb., with his farm and his
+frame-house and all its fittings, and they could be set down exactly in
+the spot now occupied by Selfridge's (which could be easily cleared away
+for the purpose), I think we could really get a great deal of good by
+watching him, even if the watching were inevitably a little too like
+watching a wild beast in a cage or an insect under a glass case. Urban
+crowds could collect every day behind a barrier or railing, and gaze at
+Mr. Pike pottering about all day in his ancient and autochthonous
+occupations. We could see him growing Indian corn with all the gravity
+of an Indian; though it is impossible to imagine Mrs. Pike blessing the
+cornfield in the manner of Minnehaha. As I have said, there is a certain
+lack of humane myth and mysticism about this Puritan peasantry. But we
+could see him transforming the maize into pop-corn, which is a very
+pleasant domestic ritual and pastime, and is the American equivalent of
+the glory of roasting chestnuts. Above all, many of us would learn for
+the first time that a man can really live and walk about upon something
+more productive than a pavement; and that when he does so he can really
+be a free man, and have no lord but the law. Instead of that, America
+can give nothing to London but those multiple modern shops, of which it
+has too many already. I know that many people entertain the innocent
+illusion that big shops are more efficient than small ones; but that is
+only because the big combinations have the monopoly of advertisement as
+well as trade. The big shop is not in the least remarkable for
+efficiency; it is only too big to be blamed for its inefficiency. It is
+secure in its reputation for always sacking the wrong man. A big shop,
+considered as a place to shop in, is simply a village of small shops
+roofed in to keep out the light and air; and one in which none of the
+shopkeepers is really responsible for his shop. If any one has any
+doubts on this matter, since I have mentioned it, let him consider this
+fact: that in practice we never do apply this method of commercial
+combination to anything that matters very much. We do not go to the
+surgical department of the Stores to have a portion of our brain removed
+by a delicate operation; and then pass on to the advocacy department to
+employ one or any of its barristers, when we are in temporary danger of
+being hanged. We go to men who own their own tools and are responsible
+for the use of their own talents. And the same truth applies to that
+other modern method of advertisement, which has also so largely fallen
+across us like the gigantic shadow of America. Nations do not arm
+themselves for a mortal struggle by remembering which sort of submarine
+they have seen most often on the hoardings. They can do it about
+something like soap, precisely because a nation will not perish by
+having a second-rate sort of soap, as it might by having a second-rate
+sort of submarine. A nation may indeed perish slowly by having a
+second-rate sort of food or drink or medicine; but that is another and
+much longer story, and the story is not ended yet. But nobody wins a
+great battle at a great crisis because somebody has told him that
+Cadgerboy's Cavalry Is the Best. It may be that commercial enterprise
+will eventually cover these fields also, and advertisement-agents will
+provide the instruments of the surgeon and the weapons of the soldier.
+When that happens, the armies will be defeated and the patients will
+die. But though we modern people are indeed patients, in the sense of
+being merely receptive and accepting things with astonishing patience,
+we are not dead yet; and we have lingering gleams of sanity.
+
+For the best things do not travel. As I appear here as a traveller, I
+may say with all modesty that the best people do not travel either. Both
+in England and America the normal people are the national people; and I
+repeat that I think they are growing more and more national. I do not
+think the abyss is being bridged by cosmopolitan theories; and I am sure
+I do not want it bridged by all this slang journalism and blatant
+advertisement. I have called all that commercial publicity the gigantic
+shadow of America. It may be the shadow of America, but it is not the
+light of America. The light lies far beyond, a level light upon the
+lands of sunset, where it shines upon wide places full of a very simple
+and a very happy people; and those who would see it must seek for it.
+
+
+
+
+_Lincoln and Lost Causes_
+
+
+It has already been remarked here that the English know a great deal
+about past American literature, but nothing about past American history.
+They do not know either, of course, as well as they know the present
+American advertising, which is the least important of the three. But it
+is worth noting once more how little they know of the history, and how
+illogically that little is chosen. They have heard, no doubt, of the
+fame and the greatness of Henry Clay. He is a cigar. But it would be
+unwise to cross-examine any Englishman, who may be consuming that luxury
+at the moment, about the Missouri Compromise or the controversies with
+Andrew Jackson. And just as the statesman of Kentucky is a cigar, so the
+state of Virginia is a cigarette. But there is perhaps one exception, or
+half-exception, to this simple plan. It would perhaps be an exaggeration
+to say that Plymouth Rock is a chicken. Any English person keeping
+chickens, and chiefly interested in Plymouth Rocks considered as
+chickens, would nevertheless have a hazy sensation of having seen the
+word somewhere before. He would feel subconsciously that the Plymouth
+Rock had not always been a chicken. Indeed, the name connotes something
+not only solid but antiquated; and is not therefore a very tactful name
+for a chicken. There would rise up before him something memorable in
+the haze that he calls his history; and he would see the history books
+of his boyhood and old engravings of men in steeple-crowned hats
+struggling with sea-waves or Red Indians. The whole thing would suddenly
+become clear to him if (by a simple reform) the chickens were called
+Pilgrim Fathers.
+
+Then he would remember all about it. The Pilgrim Fathers were champions
+of religious liberty; and they discovered America. It is true that he
+has also heard of a man called Christopher Columbus; but that was in
+connection with an egg. He has also heard of somebody known as Sir
+Walter Raleigh; and though his principal possession was a cloak, it is
+also true that he had a potato, not to mention a pipe of tobacco. Can it
+be possible that he brought it from Virginia, where the cigarettes come
+from? Gradually the memories will come back and fit themselves together
+for the average hen-wife who learnt history at the English elementary
+schools, and who has now something better to do. Even when the narrative
+becomes consecutive, it will not necessarily become correct. It is not
+strictly true to say that the Pilgrim Fathers discovered America. But it
+is quite as true as saying that they were champions of religious
+liberty. If we said that they were martyrs who would have died
+heroically in torments rather than tolerate any religious liberty, we
+should be talking something like sense about them, and telling the real
+truth that is their due. The whole Puritan movement, from the Solemn
+League and Covenant to the last stand of the last Stuarts, was a
+struggle _against_ religious toleration, or what they would have called
+religious indifference. The first religious equality on earth was
+established by a Catholic cavalier in Maryland. Now there is nothing in
+this to diminish any dignity that belongs to any real virtues and
+virilities in the Pilgrim Fathers; on the contrary, it is rather to the
+credit of their consistency and conviction. But there is no doubt that
+the note of their whole experiment in New England was intolerance, and
+even inquisition. And there is no doubt that New England was then only
+the newest and not the oldest of these colonial experiments. At least
+two Cavaliers had been in the field before any Puritans. And they had
+carried with them much more of the atmosphere and nature of the normal
+Englishman than any Puritan could possibly carry. They had established
+it especially in Virginia, which had been founded by a great Elizabethan
+and named after the great Elizabeth. Before there was any New England in
+the North, there was something very like Old England in the South.
+Relatively speaking, there is still.
+
+Whenever the anniversary of the _Mayflower_ comes round, there is a
+chorus of Anglo-American congratulation and comradeship, as if this at
+least were a matter on which all can agree. But I knew enough about
+America, even before I went there, to know that there are a good many
+people there at any rate who do not agree with it. Long ago I wrote a
+protest in which I asked why Englishmen had forgotten the great state of
+Virginia, the first in foundation and long the first in leadership; and
+why a few crabbed Nonconformists should have the right to erase a record
+that begins with Raleigh and ends with Lee, and incidentally includes
+Washington. The great state of Virginia was the backbone of America
+until it was broken in the Civil War. From Virginia came the first great
+Presidents and most of the Fathers of the Republic. Its adherence to
+the Southern side in the war made it a great war, and for a long time a
+doubtful war. And in the leader of the Southern armies it produced what
+is perhaps the one modern figure that may come to shine like St. Louis
+in the lost battle, or Hector dying before holy Troy.
+
+Again, it is characteristic that while the modern English know nothing
+about Lee they do know something about Lincoln; and nearly all that they
+know is wrong. They know nothing of his Southern connections, nothing of
+his considerable Southern sympathy, nothing of the meaning of his
+moderation in face of the problem of slavery, now lightly treated as
+self-evident. Above all, they know nothing about the respect in which
+Lincoln was quite un-English, was indeed the very reverse of English;
+and can be understood better if we think of him as a Frenchman, since it
+seems so hard for some of us to believe that he was an American. I mean
+his lust for logic for its own sake, and the way he kept mathematical
+truths in his mind like the fixed stars. He was so far from being a
+merely practical man, impatient of academic abstractions, that he
+reviewed and revelled in academic abstractions, even while he could not
+apply them to practical life. He loved to repeat that slavery was
+intolerable while he tolerated it, and to prove that something ought to
+be done while it was impossible to do it. This was probably very
+bewildering to his brother-politicians; for politicians always whitewash
+what they do not destroy. But for all that this inconsistent consistency
+beat the politicians at their own game, and this abstracted logic proved
+the most practical of all. For when the chance did come to do something,
+there was no doubt about the thing to be done. The thunderbolt fell
+from the clear heights of heaven; it had not been tossed about and lost
+like a common missile in the market-place. The matter is worth
+mentioning, because it has a moral for a much larger modern question. A
+wise man's attitude towards industrial capitalism will be very like
+Lincoln's attitude towards slavery. That is, he will manage to endure
+capitalism; but he will not endure a defence of capitalism. He will
+recognise the value, not only of knowing what he is doing, but of
+knowing what he would like to do. He will recognise the importance of
+having a thing clearly labelled in his own mind as bad, long before the
+opportunity comes to abolish it. He may recognise the risk of even worse
+things in immediate abolition, as Lincoln did in abolitionism. He will
+not call all business men brutes, any more than Lincoln would call all
+planters demons; because he knows they are not. He will regard many
+alternatives to capitalism as crude and inhuman, as Lincoln regarded
+John Brown's raid; because they are. But he will clear his _mind_ from
+cant about capitalism; he will have no doubt of what is the truth about
+Trusts and Trade Combines and the concentration of capital; and it is
+the truth that they endure under one of the ironic silences of heaven,
+over the pageants and the passing triumphs of hell.
+
+But the name of Lincoln has a more immediate reference to the
+international matters I am considering here. His name has been much
+invoked by English politicians and journalists in connection with the
+quarrel with Ireland. And if we study the matter, we shall hardly admire
+the tact and sagacity of those journalists and politicians.
+
+History is an eternal tangle of cross-purposes; and we could not take a
+clearer case, or rather a more complicated case, of such a tangle, than
+the facts lying behind a political parallel recently mentioned by many
+politicians. I mean the parallel between the movement for Irish
+independence and the attempted secession of the Southern Confederacy in
+America. Superficially any one might say that the comparison is natural
+enough; and that there is much in common between the quarrel of the
+North and South in Ireland and the quarrel of the North and South in
+America. In both cases the South was on the whole agricultural, the
+North on the whole industrial. True, the parallel exaggerates the
+position of Belfast; to complete it we must suppose the whole Federal
+system to have consisted of Pittsburg. In both the side that was more
+successful was felt by many to be less attractive. In both the same
+political terms were used, such as the term 'Union' and 'Unionism.' An
+ordinary Englishman comes to America, knowing these main lines of
+American history, and knowing that the American knows the similar main
+lines of Irish history. He knows that there are strong champions of
+Ireland in America; possibly he also knows that there are very genuine
+champions of England in America. By every possible historical analogy,
+he would naturally expect to find the pro-Irish in the South and the
+pro-English in the North. As a matter of fact, he finds almost exactly
+the opposite. He finds Boston governed by Irishmen, and Nashville
+containing people more pro-English than Englishmen. He finds Virginians
+not only of British blood, like George Washington, but of British
+opinions almost worthy of George the Third.
+
+But I do not say this, as will be seen in a moment, as a criticism of
+the comparative Toryism of the South. I say it as a criticism of the
+superlative stupidity of English propaganda. On another page I remark on
+the need for a new sort of English propaganda; a propaganda that should
+be really English and have some remote reference to England. Now if it
+were a matter of making foreigners feel the real humours and humanities
+of England, there are no Americans so able or willing to do it as the
+Americans of the Southern States. As I have already hinted, some of them
+are so loyal to the English humanities, that they think it their duty to
+defend even the English inhumanities. New England is turning into New
+Ireland. But Old England can still be faintly traced in Old Dixie. It
+contains some of the best things that England herself has had, and
+therefore (of course) the things that England herself has lost, or is
+trying to lose. But above all, as I have said, there are people in these
+places whose historic memories and family traditions really hold them to
+us, not by alliance but by affection. Indeed, they have the affection in
+spite of the alliance. They love us in spite of our compliments and
+courtesies and hands across the sea; all our ambassadorial salutations
+and speeches cannot kill their love. They manage even to respect us in
+spite of the shady Jew stockbrokers we send them as English envoys, or
+the 'efficient' men, who are sent out to be tactful with foreigners
+because they have been too tactless with trades unionists. This type of
+traditional American, North or South, really has some traditions
+connecting him with England; and though he is now in a very small
+minority, I cannot imagine why England should wish to make it smaller.
+England once sympathised with the South. The South still sympathises
+with England. It would seem that the South, or some elements in the
+South, had rather the advantage of us in political firmness and
+fidelity; but it does not follow that that fidelity will stand every
+shock. And at this moment, and in this matter, of all things in the
+world, our political propagandists must try to bolster British
+Imperialism up, by kicking Southern Secession when it is down. The
+English politicians eagerly point out that we shall be justified in
+crushing Ireland exactly as Sumner and Stevens crushed the most English
+part of America. It does not seem to occur to them that this comparison
+between the Unionist triumph in America and a Unionist triumph in
+Britain is rather hard upon our particular sympathisers, who did not
+triumph. When England exults in Lincoln's victory over his foes, she is
+exulting in his victory over her own friends. If her diplomacy continues
+as delicate and chivalrous as it is at present, they may soon be her
+only friends. England will be defending herself at the expense of her
+only defenders. But however this may be, it is as well to bear witness
+to some of the elements of my own experience; and I can answer for it,
+at least, that there are some people in the South who will not be
+pleased at being swept into the rubbish heap of history as rebels and
+ruffians; and who will not, I regret to say, by any means enjoy even
+being classed with Fenians and Sinn Feiners.
+
+Now touching the actual comparison between the conquest of the
+Confederacy and the conquest of Ireland, there are, of course, a good
+many things to be said which politicians cannot be expected to
+understand. Strange to say, it is not certain that a lost cause was
+never worth winning; and it would be easy to argue that the world lost
+very much indeed when that particular cause was lost. These are not days
+in which it is exactly obvious that an agricultural society was more
+dangerous than an industrial one. And even Southern slavery had this one
+moral merit, that it was decadent; it has this one historic advantage,
+that it is dead. The Northern slavery, industrial slavery, or what is
+called wage slavery, is not decaying but increasing; and the end of it
+is not yet. But in any case, it would be well for us to realise that the
+reproach of resembling the Confederacy does not ring in all ears as an
+unanswerable condemnation. It is scarcely a self-evident or sufficient
+argument, to some hearers, even to prove that the English are as
+delicate and philanthropic as Sherman, still less that the Irish are as
+criminal and lawless as Lee. Nor will it soothe every single soul on the
+American continent to say that the English victory in Ireland will be
+followed by a reconstruction, like the reconstruction exhibited in the
+film called 'The Birth of a Nation.' And, indeed, there is a further
+inference from that fine panorama of the exploits of the Ku-Klux Klan.
+It would be easy, as I say, to turn the argument entirely in favour of
+the Confederacy. It would be easy to draw the moral, not that the
+Southern Irish are as wrong as the Southern States, but that the
+Southern States were as right as the Southern Irish. But upon the whole,
+I do not incline to accept the parallel in that sense any more than in
+the opposite sense. For reasons I have already given elsewhere, I do
+believe that in the main Abraham Lincoln was right. But right in what?
+
+If Lincoln was right, he was right in guessing that there was not
+really a Northern nation and a Southern nation, but only one American
+nation. And if he has been proved right, he has been proved right by the
+fact that men in the South, as well as the North, do now feel a
+patriotism for that American nation. His wisdom, if it really was
+wisdom, was justified not by his opponents being conquered, but by their
+being converted. Now, if the English politicians must insist on this
+parallel, they ought to see that the parallel is fatal to themselves.
+The very test which proved Lincoln right has proved them wrong. The very
+judgment which may have justified him quite unquestionably condemns
+them. We have again and again conquered Ireland, and have never come an
+inch nearer to converting Ireland. We have had not one Gettysburg, but
+twenty Gettysburgs; but we have had no Union. And that is where, as I
+have remarked, it is relevant to remember that flying fantastic vision
+on the films that told so many people what no histories have told them.
+I heard when I was in America rumours of the local reappearance of the
+Ku-Klux Klan; but the smallness and mildness of the manifestation, as
+compared with the old Southern or the new Irish case, is alone a
+sufficient example of the exception that proves the rule. To approximate
+to any resemblance to recent Irish events, we must imagine the Ku-Klux
+Klan riding again in more than the terrors of that vision, wild as the
+wind, white as the moon, terrible as an army with banners. If there were
+really such a revival of the Southern action, there would equally be a
+revival of the Southern argument. It would be clear that Lee was right
+and Lincoln was wrong; that the Southern States were national and were
+as indestructible as nations. If the South were as rebellious as
+Ireland, the North would be as wrong as England.
+
+But I desire a new English diplomacy that will exhibit, not the things
+in which England is wrong but the things in which England is right. And
+England is right in England, just as she is wrong in Ireland; and it is
+exactly that rightness of a real nation in itself that it is at once
+most difficult and most desirable to explain to foreigners. Now the
+Irishman, and to some extent the American, has remained alien to
+England, largely because he does not truly realise that the Englishman
+loves England, still less can he really imagine why the Englishman loves
+England. That is why I insist on the stupidity of ignoring and insulting
+the opinions of those few Virginians and other Southerners who really
+have some inherited notion of why Englishmen love England; and even love
+it in something of the same fashion themselves. Politicians who do not
+know the English spirit when they see it at home, cannot of course be
+expected to recognise it abroad. Publicists are eloquently praising
+Abraham Lincoln, for all the wrong reasons; but fundamentally for that
+worst and vilest of all reasons--that he succeeded. None of them seems
+to have the least notion of how to look for England in England; and they
+would see something fantastic in the figure of a traveller who found it
+elsewhere, or anywhere but in New England. And it is well, perhaps, that
+they have not yet found England where it is hidden in England; for if
+they found it, they would kill it.
+
+All I am concerned to consider here is the inevitable failure of this
+sort of Anglo-American propaganda to create a friendship. To praise
+Lincoln as an Englishman is about as appropriate as if we were praising
+Lincoln as an English town. We are talking about something totally
+different. And indeed the whole conversation is rather like some such
+cross-purposes about some such word as 'Lincoln'; in which one party
+should be talking about the President and the other about the cathedral.
+It is like some wild bewilderment in a farce, with one man wondering how
+a President could have a church-spire, and the other wondering how a
+church could have a chin-beard. And the moral is the moral on which I
+would insist everywhere in this book; that the remedy is to be found in
+disentangling the two and not in entangling them further. You could not
+produce a democrat of the logical type of Lincoln merely out of the
+moral materials that now make up an English cathedral town, like that on
+which Old Tom of Lincoln looks down. But on the other hand, it is quite
+certain that a hundred Abraham Lincolns, working for a hundred years,
+could not build Lincoln Cathedral. And the farcical allegory of an
+attempt to make Old Tom and Old Abe embrace to the glory of the
+illogical Anglo-Saxon language is but a symbol of something that is
+always being attempted, and always attempted in vain. It is not by
+mutual imitation that the understanding can come. It is not by erecting
+New York sky-scrapers in London that New York can learn the sacred
+significance of the towers of Lincoln. It is not by English dukes
+importing the daughters of American millionaires that England can get
+any glimpse of the democratic dignity of American men. I have the best
+of all reasons for knowing that a stranger can be welcomed in America;
+and just as he is courteously treated in the country as a stranger, so
+he should always be careful to treat it as a strange land. That sort of
+imaginative respect, as for something different and even distant, is the
+only beginning of any attachment between patriotic peoples. The English
+traveller may carry with him at least one word of his own great language
+and literature; and whenever he is inclined to say of anything 'This is
+passing strange,' he may remember that it was no inconsiderable
+Englishman who appended to it the answer, 'And therefore as a stranger
+give it welcome.'
+
+
+
+
+_Wells and the World State_
+
+
+There was recently a highly distinguished gathering to celebrate the
+past, present, and especially future triumphs of aviation. Some of the
+most brilliant men of the age, such as Mr. H. G. Wells and Mr. J. L.
+Garvin, made interesting and important speeches, and many scientific
+aviators luminously discussed the new science. Among their graceful
+felicitations and grave and quiet analyses a word was said, or a note
+was struck, which I myself can never hear, even in the most harmless
+after-dinner speech, without an impulse to leap up and yell, and smash
+the decanters and wreck the dinner-table.
+
+Long ago, when I was a boy, I heard it with fury; and never since have I
+been able to understand any free man hearing it without fury. I heard it
+when Bloch, and the old prophets of pacifism by panic, preached that war
+would become too horrible for patriots to endure. It sounded to me like
+saying that an instrument of torture was being prepared by my dentist,
+that would finally cure me of loving my dog. And I felt it again when
+all these wise and well-meaning persons began to talk about the
+inevitable effect of aviation in bridging the Atlantic, and establishing
+alliance and affection between England and America.
+
+I resent the suggestion that a machine can make me bad. But I resent
+quite equally the suggestion that a machine can make me good. It might
+be the unfortunate fact that a coolness had arisen between myself and
+Mr. Fitzarlington Blenkinsop, inhabiting the suburban villa and garden
+next to mine; and I might even be largely to blame for it. But if
+somebody told me that a new kind of lawn-mower had just been invented,
+of so cunning a structure that I should be forced to become a
+bosom-friend of Mr. Blenkinsop whether I liked it or not, I should be
+very much annoyed. I should be moved to say that if that was the only
+way of cutting my grass I would not cut my grass, but continue to cut my
+neighbour. Or suppose the difference were even less defensible; suppose
+a man had suffered from a trifling shindy with his wife. And suppose
+somebody told him that the introduction of an entirely new
+vacuum-cleaner would compel him to a reluctant reconciliation with his
+wife. It would be found, I fancy, that human nature abhors that vacuum.
+Reasonably spirited human beings will not be ordered about by bicycles
+and sewing-machines; and a sane man will not be made good, let alone
+bad, by the things he has himself made. I have occasionally dictated to
+a typewriter, but I will not be dictated to by a typewriter, even of the
+newest and most complicated mechanism; nor have I ever met a typewriter,
+however complex, that attempted such a tyranny.
+
+Yet this and nothing else is what is implied in all such talk of the
+aeroplane annihilating distinctions as well as distances; and an
+international aviation abolishing nationalities. This and nothing else
+was really implied in one speaker's prediction that such aviation will
+almost necessitate an Anglo-American friendship. Incidentally, I may
+remark, it is not a true suggestion even in the practical and
+materialistic sense; and the speaker's phrase refuted the speaker's
+argument. He said that international relations must be more friendly
+when men can get from England to America in a day. Well, men can already
+get from England to Germany in a day; and the result was a mutual
+invitation of which the formalities lasted for five years. Men could get
+from the coast of England to the coast of France very quickly, through
+nearly all the ages during which those two coasts were bristling with
+arms against each other. They could get there very quickly when Nelson
+went down by that Burford Inn to embark for Trafalgar; they could get
+there very quickly when Napoleon sat in his tent in that camp at
+Boulogne that filled England with alarums of invasion. Are these the
+amiable and pacific relations which will unite England and America, when
+Englishmen can get to America in a day? The shortening of the distance
+seems quite as likely, so far as that argument goes, to facilitate that
+endless guerilla warfare which raged across the narrow seas in the
+Middle Ages; when French invaders carried away the bells of Rye, and the
+men of those flats of East Sussex gloriously pursued and recovered them.
+I do not know whether American privateers, landing at Liverpool, would
+carry away a few of the more elegant factory chimneys as a substitute
+for the superstitious symbols of the past. I know not if the English, on
+ripe reflection, would essay with any enthusiasm to get them back. But
+anyhow it is anything but self-evident that people cannot fight each
+other because they are near to each other; and if it were true, there
+would never have been any such thing as border warfare in the world. As
+a fact, border warfare has often been the one sort of warfare which it
+was most difficult to bring under control. And our own traditional
+position in face of this new logic is somewhat disconcerting. We have
+always supposed ourselves safer because we were insular and therefore
+isolated. We have been congratulating ourselves for centuries on having
+enjoyed peace because we were cut off from our neighbours. And now they
+are telling us that we shall only enjoy peace when we are joined up with
+our neighbours. We have pitied the poor nations with frontiers, because
+a frontier only produces fighting; and now we are trusting to a frontier
+as the only thing that will produce friendship. But, as a matter of
+fact, and for a far deeper and more spiritual reason, a frontier will
+not produce friendship. Only friendliness produces friendship. And we
+must look far deeper into the soul of man for the thing that produces
+friendliness.
+
+But apart from this fallacy about the facts, I feel, as I say, a strong
+abstract anger against the idea, or what some would call the ideal. If
+it were true that men could be taught and tamed by machines, even if
+they were taught wisdom or tamed to amiability, I should think it the
+most tragic truth in the world. A man so improved would be, in an
+exceedingly ugly sense, losing his soul to save it. But in truth he
+cannot be so completely coerced into good; and in so far as he is
+incompletely coerced, he is quite as likely to be coerced into evil. Of
+the financial characters who figure as philanthropists and philosophers
+in such cases, it is strictly true to say that their good is evil. The
+light in their bodies is darkness, and the highest objects of such men
+are the lowest objects of ordinary men. Their peace is mere safety,
+their friendship is mere trade; their international friendship is mere
+international trade. The best we can say of that school of capitalism is
+that it will be unsuccessful. It has every other vice, but it is not
+practical. It has at least the impossibility of idealism; and so far as
+remoteness can carry it, that Inferno is indeed a Utopia. All the
+visible manifestations of these men are materialistic; but at least
+their visions will not materialise. The worst we suffer; but the best we
+shall at any rate escape. We may continue to endure the realities of
+cosmopolitan capitalism; but we shall be spared its ideals.
+
+But I am not primarily interested in the plutocrats whose vision takes
+so vulgar a form. I am interested in the same thing when it takes a far
+more subtle form, in men of genius and genuine social enthusiasm like
+Mr. H. G. Wells. It would be very unfair to a man like Mr. Wells to
+suggest that in his vision the Englishman and the American are to
+embrace only in the sense of clinging to each other in terror. He is a
+man who understands what friendship is, and who knows how to enjoy the
+motley humours of humanity. But the political reconstruction which he
+proposes is too much determined by this old nightmare of
+necessitarianism. He tells us that our national dignities and
+differences must be melted into the huge mould of a World State, or else
+(and I think these are almost his own words) we shall be destroyed by
+the instruments and machinery we have ourselves made. In effect, men
+must abandon patriotism or they will be murdered by science. After this,
+surely no one can accuse Mr. Wells of an undue tenderness for scientific
+over other types of training. Greek may be a good thing or no; but
+nobody says that if Greek scholarship is carried past a certain point,
+everybody will be torn in pieces like Orpheus, or burned up like Semele,
+or poisoned like Socrates. Philosophy, theology and logic may or may not
+be idle academic studies; but nobody supposes that the study of
+philosophy, or even of theology, ultimately forces its students to
+manufacture racks and thumb-screws against their will; or that even
+logicians need be so alarmingly logical as all that. Science seems to be
+the only branch of study in which people have to be waved back from
+perfection as from a pestilence. But my business is not with the
+scientific dangers which alarm Mr. Wells, but with the remedy he
+proposes for them; or rather with the relation of that remedy to the
+foundation and the future of America. Now it is not too much to say that
+Mr. Wells finds his model in America. The World State is to be the
+United States of the World. He answers almost all objections to the
+practicability of such a peace among states, by pointing out that the
+American States have such a peace, and by adding, truly enough, that
+another turn of history might easily have seen them broken up by war.
+The pattern of the World State is to be found in the New World.
+
+Oddly enough, as it seems to me, he proposes almost cosmic conquests for
+the American Constitution, while leaving out the most successful thing
+in that Constitution. The point appeared in answer to a question which
+many, like myself, must have put in this matter; the question of
+despotism and democracy. I cannot understand any democrat not seeing the
+danger of so distant and indirect a system of government. It is hard
+enough anywhere to get representatives to represent. It is hard enough
+to get a little town council to fulfil the wishes of a little town,
+even when the townsmen meet the town councillors every day in the
+street, and could kick them down the street if they liked. What the same
+town councillors would be like if they were ruling all their
+fellow-creatures from the North Pole or the New Jerusalem, is a vision
+of Oriental despotism beyond the towering fancies of Tamberlane. This
+difficulty in all representative government is felt everywhere, and not
+least in America. But I think that if there is one truth apparent in
+such a choice of evils, it is that monarchy is at least better than
+oligarchy; and that where we have to act on a large scale, the most
+genuine popularity can gather round a particular person like a Pope or a
+President of the United States, or even a dictator like Caesar or
+Napoleon, rather than round a more or less corrupt committee which can
+only be defined as an obscure oligarchy. And in that sense any oligarchy
+is obscure. For people to continue to trust twenty-seven men it is
+necessary, as a preliminary formality, that people should have heard of
+them. And there are no twenty-seven men of whom everybody has heard as
+everybody in France had heard of Napoleon, as all Catholics have heard
+of the Pope or all Americans have heard of the President. I think the
+mass of ordinary Americans do really elect their President; and even
+where they cannot control him at least they watch him, and in the long
+run they judge him. I think, therefore, that the American Constitution
+has a real popular institution in the Presidency. But Mr. Wells would
+appear to want the American Constitution without the Presidency. If I
+understand his words rightly, he seems to want the great democracy
+without its popular institution. Alluding to this danger, that the
+World State might be a world tyranny, he seems to take tyranny entirely
+in the sense of autocracy. He asks whether the President of the World
+State would not be rather too tremendous a person, and seems to suggest
+in answer that there need not even be any such person. He seems to imply
+that the committee controlling the planet could meet almost without any
+one in the chair, certainly without any one on the throne. I cannot
+imagine anything more manifestly made to be a tyranny than such an
+acephalous aristocracy. But while Mr. Wells's decision seems to me
+strange, his reason for it seems to me still more extraordinary.
+
+He suggests that no such dictator will be needed in his World State
+because 'there will be no wars and no diplomacy.' A World State ought
+doubtless to go round the world; and going round the world seems to be a
+good training for arguing in a circle. Obviously there will be no wars
+and no war-diplomacy if something has the power to prevent them; and we
+cannot deduce that the something will not want any power. It is rather
+as if somebody, urging that the Germans could only be defeated by
+uniting the Allied commands under Marshal Foch, had said that after all
+it need not offend the British Generals because the French supremacy
+need only be a fiction, the Germans being defeated. We should naturally
+say that the German defeat would only be a reality because the Allied
+command was not a fiction. So the universal peace would only be a
+reality if the World State were not a fiction. And it could not be even
+a state if it were not a government. This argument amounts to saying,
+first that the World State will be needed because it is strong, and
+then that it may safely be weak because it will not be needed.
+
+Internationalism is in any case hostile to democracy. I do not say it is
+incompatible with it; but any combination of the two will be a
+compromise between the two. The only purely popular government is local,
+and founded on local knowledge. The citizens can rule the city because
+they know the city; but it will always be an exceptional sort of citizen
+who has or claims the right to rule over ten cities, and these remote
+and altogether alien cities. All Irishmen may know roughly the same sort
+of things about Ireland; but it is absurd to say they all know the same
+things about Iceland, when they may include a scholar steeped in
+Icelandic sagas or a sailor who has been to Iceland. To make all
+politics cosmopolitan is to create an aristocracy of globe-trotters. If
+your political outlook really takes in the Cannibal Islands, you depend
+of necessity upon a superior and picked minority of the people who have
+been to the Cannibal Islands; or rather of the still smaller and more
+select minority who have come back.
+
+Given this difficulty about quite direct democracy over large areas, I
+think the nearest thing to democracy is despotism. At any rate I think
+it is some sort of more or less independent monarchy, such as Andrew
+Jackson created in America. And I believe it is true to say that the two
+men whom the modern world really and almost reluctantly regards with
+impersonal respect, as clothed by their office with something historic
+and honourable, are the Pope and the President of the United States.
+
+But to admire the United States as the United States is one thing. To
+admire them as the World State is quite another. The attempt of Mr.
+Wells to make America a sort of model for the federation of all the free
+nations of the earth, though it is international in intention, is really
+as narrowly national, in the bad sense, as the desire of Mr. Kipling to
+cover the world with British Imperialism, or of Professor Treitschke to
+cover it with Prussian Pan-Germanism. Not being schoolboys, we no longer
+believe that everything can be settled by painting the map red. Nor do I
+believe it can be done by painting it blue with white spots, even if
+they are called stars. The insufficiency of British Imperialism does not
+lie in the fact that it has always been applied by force of arms. As a
+matter of fact, it has not. It has been effected largely by commerce, by
+colonisation of comparatively empty places, by geographical discovery
+and diplomatic bargain. Whether it be regarded as praise or blame, it is
+certainly the truth that among all the things that have called
+themselves empires, the British has been perhaps the least purely
+military, and has least both of the special guilt and the special glory
+that goes with militarism. The insufficiency of British Imperialism is
+not that it is imperial, let alone military. The insufficiency of
+British Imperialism is that it is British; when it is not merely Jewish.
+It is that just as a man is no more than a man, so a nation is no more
+than a nation; and any nation is inadequate as an international model.
+Any state looks small when it occupies the whole earth. Any polity is
+narrow as soon as it is as wide as the world. It would be just the same
+if Ireland began to paint the map green or Montenegro were to paint it
+black. The objection to spreading anything all over the world is that,
+among other things, you have to spread it very thin.
+
+But America, which Mr. Wells takes as a model, is in another sense
+rather a warning. Mr. Wells says very truly that there was a moment in
+history when America might well have broken up into independent states
+like those of Europe. He seems to take it for granted that it was in all
+respects an advantage that this was avoided. Yet there is surely a case,
+however mildly we put it, for a certain importance in the world still
+attaching to Europe. There are some who find France as interesting as
+Florida; and who think they can learn as much about history and humanity
+in the marble cities of the Mediterranean as in the wooden towns of the
+Middle West. Europe may have been divided, but it was certainly not
+destroyed; nor has its peculiar position in the culture of the world
+been destroyed. Nothing has yet appeared capable of completely eclipsing
+it, either in its extension in America or its imitation in Japan. But
+the immediate point here is perhaps a more important one. There is now
+no creed accepted as embodying the common sense of all Europe, as the
+Catholic creed was accepted as embodying it in mediaeval times. There is
+no culture broadly superior to all others, as the Mediterranean culture
+was superior to that of the barbarians in Roman times. If Europe were
+united in modern times, it would probably be by the victory of one of
+its types over others, possibly over all the others. And when America
+was united finally in the nineteenth century, it _was_ by the victory of
+one of its types over others. It is not yet certain that this victory
+was a good thing. It is not yet certain that the world will be better
+for the triumph of the North over the Southern traditions of America.
+It may yet turn out to be as unfortunate as a triumph of the North
+Germans over the Southern traditions of Germany and of Europe.
+
+The men who will not face this fact are men whose minds are not free.
+They are more crushed by Progress than any pietists by Providence. They
+are not allowed to question that whatever has recently happened was all
+for the best. Now Progress is Providence without God. That is, it is a
+theory that everything has always perpetually gone right by accident. It
+is a sort of atheistic optimism, based on an everlasting coincidence far
+more miraculous than a miracle. If there be no purpose, or if the
+purpose permits of human free will, then in either case it is almost
+insanely unlikely that there should be in history a period of steady and
+uninterrupted progress; or in other words a period in which poor
+bewildered humanity moves amid a chaos of complications, without making
+a single mistake. What has to be hammered into the heads of most normal
+newspaper-readers to-day is that Man has made a great many mistakes.
+Modern Man has made a great many mistakes. Indeed, in the case of that
+progressive and pioneering character, one is sometimes tempted to say
+that he has made nothing but mistakes. Calvinism was a mistake, and
+Capitalism was a mistake, and Teutonism and the flattery of the Northern
+tribes were mistakes. In the French the persecution of Catholicism by
+the politicians was a mistake, as they found out in the Great War; when
+the memory gave Irish or Italian Catholics an excuse for hanging back.
+In England the loss of agriculture and therefore of food-supply in war,
+and the power to stand a siege, was a mistake. And in America the
+introduction of the negroes was a mistake; but it may yet be found that
+the sacrifice of the Southern white man to them was even more of a
+mistake.
+
+The reason of this doubt is in one word. We have not yet seen the end of
+the whole industrial experiment; and there are already signs of it
+coming to a bad end. It may end in Bolshevism. It is more likely to end
+in the Servile State. Indeed, the two things are not so different as
+some suppose, and they grow less different every day. The Bolshevists
+have already called in Capitalists to help them to crush the free
+peasants. The Capitalists are quite likely to call in Labour Leaders to
+whitewash their compromise as social reform or even Socialism. The
+cosmopolitan Jews who are the Communists in the East will not find it so
+very hard to make a bargain with the cosmopolitan Jews who are
+Capitalists in the West. The Western Jews would be willing to admit a
+nominal Socialism. The Eastern Jews have already admitted that their
+Socialism is nominal. It was the Bolshevist leader himself who said,
+'Russia is again a Capitalist country.' But whoever makes the bargain,
+and whatever is its precise character, the substance of it will be
+servile. It will be servile in the only rational and reliable sense;
+that is, an arrangement by which a mass of men are ensured shelter and
+livelihood, in return for being subjected to a law which obliges them to
+continue to labour. Of course it will not be called the Servile State;
+it is very probable that it will be called the Socialist State. But
+nobody seems to realise how very near all the industrial countries are
+to it. At any moment it may appear in the simple form of compulsory
+arbitration; for compulsory arbitration dealing with private employers
+is by definition slavery. When workmen receive unemployment pay, and at
+the same time arouse more and more irritation by going on strike, it may
+seem very natural to give them the unemployment pay for good and forbid
+them the strike for good; and the combination of those two things is by
+definition slavery. And Trotsky can beat any Trust magnate as a
+strike-breaker; for he does not even pretend that his compulsory labour
+is a free bargain. If Trotsky and the Trust magnate come to a working
+compromise, that compromise will be a Servile State. But it will also be
+the supreme and by far the most constructive and conclusive result of
+the industrial movement in history; of the power of machinery or money;
+of the huge populations of the modern cities; of scientific inventions
+and resources; of all the things before which the agricultural society
+of the Southern Confederacy went down. But even those who cannot see
+that commercialism may end in the triumph of slavery can see that the
+Northern victory has to a great extent ended in the triumph of
+commercialism. And the point at the moment is that this did definitely
+mean, even at the time, the triumph of one American type over another
+American type; just as much as any European war might mean the triumph
+of one European type over another. A victory of England over France
+would be a victory of merchants over peasants; and the victory of
+Northerners over Southerners was a victory of merchants over squires. So
+that that very unity, which Mr. Wells contrasts so favourably with war,
+was not only itself due to a war, but to a war which had one of the most
+questionable and even perilous of the results of war. That result was a
+change in the balance of power, the predominance of a particular
+partner, the exaltation of a particular example, the eclipse of
+excellent traditions when the defeated lost their international
+influence. In short, it made exactly the same sort of difference of
+which we speak when we say that 1870 was a disaster to Europe, or that
+it was necessary to fight Prussia lest she should Prussianise the whole
+world. America would have been very different if the leadership had
+remained with Virginia. The world would have been very different if
+America had been very different. It is quite reasonable to rejoice that
+the issue went as it did; indeed, as I have explained elsewhere, for
+other reasons I do on the whole rejoice in it. But it is certainly not
+self-evident that it is a matter for rejoicing. One type of American
+state conquered and subjugated another type of American state; and the
+virtues and value of the latter were very largely lost to the world. So
+if Mr. Wells insists on the parallel of a United States of Europe, he
+must accept the parallel of a Civil War of Europe. He must suppose that
+the peasant countries crush the industrial countries or vice versa; and
+that one or other of them becomes the European tradition to the neglect
+of the other. The situation which seems to satisfy him so completely in
+America is, after all, the situation which would result in Europe if the
+Germanic Empires, let us say, had entirely arrested the special
+development of the Slavs; or if the influence of France had really
+broken off short under a blow from Britain. The Old South had qualities
+of humane civilisation which have not sufficiently survived; or at any
+rate have not sufficiently spread. It is true that the decline of the
+agricultural South has been considerably balanced by the growth of the
+agricultural West. It is true, as I have occasion to emphasise in
+another place, that the West does give the New America something that is
+nearly a normal peasantry, as a pendant to the industrial towns. But
+this is not an answer; it is rather an augmentation of the argument. In
+so far as America is saved it is saved by being patchy; and would be
+ruined if the Western patch had the same fate as the Southern patch.
+When all is said, therefore, the advantages of American unification are
+not so certain that we can apply them to a world unification. The doubt
+could be expressed in a great many ways and by a great many examples.
+For that matter, it is already being felt that the supremacy of the
+Middle West in politics is inflicting upon other localities exactly the
+sort of local injustice that turns provinces into nations struggling to
+be free. It has already inflicted what amounts to religious persecution,
+or the imposition of an alien morality, on the wine-growing civilisation
+of California. In a word, the American system is a good one as
+governments go; but it is too large, and the world will not be improved
+by making it larger. And for this reason alone I should reject this
+second method of uniting England and America; which is not only
+Americanising England, but Americanising everything else.
+
+But the essential reason is that a type of culture came out on top in
+America and England in the nineteenth century, which cannot and would
+not be tolerated on top of the world. To unite all the systems at the
+top, without improving and simplifying their social organisation below,
+would be to tie all the tops of the trees together where they rise
+above a dense and poisonous jungle, and make the jungle darker than
+before. To create such a cosmopolitan political platform would be to
+build a roof above our own heads to shut out the sunlight, on which only
+usurers and conspirators clad in gold could walk about in the sun. This
+is no moment when industrial intellectualism can inflict such an
+artificial oppression upon the world. Industrialism itself is coming to
+see dark days, and its future is very doubtful. It is split from end to
+end with strikes and struggles for economic life, in which the poor not
+only plead that they are starving, but even the rich can only plead that
+they are bankrupt. The peasantries are growing not only more prosperous
+but more politically effective; the Russian moujik has held up the
+Bolshevist Government of Moscow and Petersburg; a huge concession has
+been made by England to Ireland; the League of Nations has decided for
+Poland against Prussia. It is not certain that industrialism will not
+wither even in its own field; it is certain that its intellectual ideas
+will not be allowed to cover every field; and this sort of cosmopolitan
+culture is one of its ideas. Industrialism itself may perish; or on the
+other hand industrialism itself may survive, by some searching and
+scientific reform that will really guarantee economic security to all.
+It may really purge itself of the accidental maladies of anarchy and
+famine; and continue as a machine, but at least as a comparatively clean
+and humanely shielded machine; at any rate no longer as a man-eating
+machine. Capitalism may clear itself of its worst corruptions by such
+reform as is open to it; by creating humane and healthy conditions for
+labour, and setting the labouring classes to work under a lucid and
+recognised law. It may make Pittsburg one vast model factory for all who
+will model themselves upon factories; and may give to all men and women
+in its employment a clear social status in which they can be contented
+and secure. And on the day when that social security is established for
+the masses, when industrial capitalism has achieved this larger and more
+logical organisation and found peace at last, a strange and shadowy and
+ironic triumph, like an abstract apology, will surely hover over all
+those graves in the Wilderness where lay the bones of so many gallant
+gentlemen; men who had also from their youth known and upheld such a
+social stratification, who had the courage to call a spade a spade and a
+slave a slave.
+
+
+
+
+_A New Martin Chuzzlewit_
+
+
+The aim of this book, if it has one, is to suggest this thesis; that the
+very worst way of helping Anglo-American friendship is to be an
+Anglo-American. There is only one thing lower, of course, which is being
+an Anglo-Saxon. It is lower, because at least Englishmen do exist and
+Americans do exist; and it may be possible, though repulsive, to imagine
+an American and an Englishman in some way blended together. But if
+Angles and Saxons ever did exist, they are all fortunately dead now; and
+the wildest imagination cannot form the weakest idea of what sort of
+monster would be made by mixing one with the other. But my thesis is
+that the whole hope, and the only hope, lies not in mixing two things
+together, but rather in cutting them very sharply asunder. That is the
+only way in which two things can succeed sufficiently in getting outside
+each other to appreciate and admire each other. So long as they are
+different and yet supposed to be the same, there can be nothing but a
+divided mind and a staggering balance. It may be that in the first
+twilight of time man and woman walked about as one quadruped. But if
+they did, I am sure it was a quadruped that reared and bucked and kicked
+up its heels. Then the flaming sword of some angel divided them, and
+they fell in love with each other.
+
+Should the reader require an example a little more within historical
+range, or a little more subject to critical tests, than the above
+prehistoric anecdote (which I need not say was revealed to me in a
+vision) it would be easy enough to supply them both in a hypothetical
+and a historical form. It is obvious enough in a general way that if we
+begin to subject diverse countries to an identical test, there will not
+only be rivalry, but what is far more deadly and disastrous,
+superiority. If we institute a competition between Holland and
+Switzerland as to the relative grace and agility of their mountain
+guides, it will be clear that the decision is disproportionately easy;
+it will also be clear that certain facts about the configuration of
+Holland have escaped our international eye. If we establish a comparison
+between them in skill and industry in the art of building dykes against
+the sea, it will be equally clear that the injustice falls the other
+way; it will also be clear that the situation of Switzerland on the map
+has received insufficient study. In both cases there will not only be
+rivalry but very unbalanced and unjust rivalry; in both cases,
+therefore, there will not only be enmity but very bitter or insolent
+enmity. But so long as the two are sharply divided there can be no
+enmity because there can be no rivalry. Nobody can argue about whether
+the Swiss climb mountains better than the Dutch build dykes; just as
+nobody can argue about whether a triangle is more triangular than a
+circle is round.
+
+This fancy example is alphabetically and indeed artificially simple;
+but, having used it for convenience, I could easily give similar
+examples not of fancy but of fact. I had occasion recently to attend the
+Christmas festivity of a club in London for the exiles of one of the
+Scandinavian nations. When I entered the room the first thing that
+struck my eye, and greatly raised my spirits, was that the room was
+dotted with the colours of peasant costumes and the specimens of peasant
+craftsmanship. There were, of course, other costumes and other crafts in
+evidence; there were men dressed like myself (only better) in the garb
+of the modern middle classes; there was furniture like the furniture of
+any other room in London. Now, according to the ideal formula of the
+ordinary internationalist, these things that we had in common ought to
+have moved me to a sense of the kinship of all civilisation. I ought to
+have felt that as the Scandinavian gentleman wore a collar and tie, and
+I also wore a collar and tie, we were brothers and nothing could come
+between us. I ought to have felt that we were standing for the same
+principles of truth because we were wearing the same pair of trousers;
+or rather, to speak with more precision, similar pairs of trousers.
+Anyhow, the pair of trousers, that cloven pennon, ought to have floated
+in fancy over my head as the banner of Europe or the League of Nations.
+I am constrained to confess that no such rush of emotions overcame me;
+and the topic of trousers did not float across my mind at all. So far as
+those things were concerned, I might have remained in a mood of mortal
+enmity, and cheerfully shot or stabbed the best dressed gentleman in the
+room. Precisely what did warm my heart with an abrupt affection for that
+northern nation was the very thing that is utterly and indeed lamentably
+lacking in my own nation. It was something corresponding to the one
+great gap in English history, corresponding to the one great blot on
+English civilisation. It was the spiritual presence of a peasantry,
+dressed according to its own dignity, and expressing itself by its own
+creations.
+
+The sketch of America left by Charles Dickens is generally regarded as
+something which is either to be used as a taunt or covered with an
+apology. Doubtless it was unduly critical, even of the America of that
+day; yet curiously enough it may well be the text for a true
+reconciliation at the present day. It is true that in this, as in other
+things, the Dickensian exaggeration is itself exaggerated. It is also
+true that, while it is over-emphasised, it is not allowed for. Dickens
+tended too much to describe the United States as a vast lunatic asylum;
+but partly because he had a natural inspiration and imagination suited
+to the description of lunatic asylums. As it was his finest poetic fancy
+that created a lunatic over the garden wall, so it was his fancy that
+created a lunatic over the western sea. To read some of the complaints,
+one would fancy that Dickens had deliberately invented a low and
+farcical America to be a contrast to his high and exalted England. It is
+suggested that he showed America as full of rowdy bullies like Hannibal
+Chollop, or ridiculous wind-bags like Elijah Pogram, while England was
+full of refined and sincere spirits like Jonas Chuzzlewit, Chevy Slime,
+Montague Tigg, and Mr. Pecksniff. If _Martin Chuzzlewit_ makes America a
+lunatic asylum, what in the world does it make England? We can only say
+a criminal lunatic asylum. The truth is, of course, that Dickens so
+described them because he had a genius for that sort of description; for
+the making of almost maniacal grotesques of the same type as Quilp or
+Fagin. He made these Americans absurd because he was an artist in
+absurdity; and no artist can help finding hints everywhere for his own
+peculiar art. In a word, he created a laughable Pogram for the same
+reason that he created a laughable Pecksniff; and that was only because
+no other creature could have created them.
+
+It is often said that we learn to love the characters in romances as if
+they were characters in real life. I wish we could sometimes love the
+characters in real life as we love the characters in romances. There are
+a great many human souls whom we should accept more kindly, and even
+appreciate more clearly, if we simply thought of them as people in a
+story. _Martin Chuzzlewit_ is itself indeed an unsatisfactory and even
+unfortunate example; for it is, among its author's other works, a rather
+unusually harsh and hostile story. I do not suggest that we should feel
+towards an American friend that exact shade or tint of tenderness that
+we feel towards Mr. Hannibal Chollop. Our enjoyment of the foreigner
+should rather resemble our enjoyment of Pickwick than our enjoyment of
+Pecksniff. But there is this amount of appropriateness even in the
+particular example; that Dickens did show in both countries how men can
+be made amusing to each other. So far the point is not that he made fun
+of America, but that he got fun out of America. And, as I have already
+pointed out, he applied exactly the same method of selection and
+exaggeration to England. In the other English stories, written in a more
+amiable mood, he applied it in a more amiable manner; but he could apply
+it to an American too, when he was writing in that mood and manner. We
+can see it in the witty and withering criticism delivered by the Yankee
+traveller in the musty refreshment room of Mugby Junction; a genuine
+example of a genuinely American fun and freedom satirising a genuinely
+British stuffiness and snobbery. Nobody expects the American traveller
+to admire the refreshments at Mugby Junction; but he might admire the
+refreshment at one of the Pickwickian inns, especially if it contained
+Pickwick. Nobody expects Pickwick to like Pogram; but he might like the
+American who made fun of Mugby Junction. But the point is that, while he
+supported him in making fun, he would also think him funny. The two
+comic characters could admire each other, but they would also be amused
+at each other. And the American would think the Englishman funny because
+he was English; and a very good reason too. The Englishman would think
+the American amusing because he was American; nor can I imagine a better
+ground for his amusement.
+
+Now many will debate on the psychological possibility of such a
+friendship founded on reciprocal ridicule, or rather on a comedy of
+comparisons. But I will say of this harmony of humours what Mr. H. G.
+Wells says of his harmony of states in the unity of his World State. If
+it be truly impossible to have such a peace, then there is nothing
+possible except war. If we cannot have friends in this fashion, then we
+shall sooner or later have enemies in some other fashion. There is no
+hope in the pompous impersonalities of internationalism.
+
+And this brings us to the real and relevant mistake of Dickens. It was
+not in thinking his Americans funny, but in thinking them foolish
+because they were funny. In this sense it will be noticed that Dickens's
+American sketches are almost avowedly superficial; they are descriptions
+of public life and not private life. Mr. Jefferson Brick had no private
+life. But Mr. Jonas Chuzzlewit undoubtedly had a private life; and even
+kept some parts of it exceeding private. Mr. Pecksniff was also a
+domestic character; so was Mr. Quilp. Mr. Pecksniff and Mr. Quilp had
+slightly different ways of surprising their families; Mr. Pecksniff by
+playfully observing 'Boh!' when he came home; Mr. Quilp by coming home
+at all. But we can form no picture of how Mr. Hannibal Chollop playfully
+surprised his family; possibly by shooting at them; possibly by not
+shooting at them. We can only say that he would rather surprise us by
+having a family at all. We do not know how the Mother of the Modern
+Gracchi managed the Modern Gracchi; for her maternity was rather a
+public than a private office. We have no romantic moonlit scenes of the
+love-making of Elijah Pogram, to balance against the love story of Seth
+Pecksniff. These figures are all in a special sense theatrical; all
+facing one way and lit up by a public limelight. Their ridiculous
+characters are detachable from their real characters, if they have any
+real characters. And the author might perfectly well be right about what
+is ridiculous, and wrong about what is real. He might be as right in
+smiling at the Pograms and the Bricks as in smiling at the Pickwicks and
+the Boffins. And he might still be as wrong in seeing Mr. Pogram as a
+hypocrite as the great Buzfuz was wrong in seeing Mr. Pickwick as a
+monster of revolting heartlessness and systematic villainy. He might
+still be as wrong in thinking Jefferson Brick a charlatan and a cheat as
+was that great disciple of Lavater, Mrs. Wilfer, in tracing every
+wrinkle of evil cunning in the face of Mrs. Boffin. For Mr. Pickwick's
+spectacles and gaiters and Mrs. Boffin's bonnets and boudoir are after
+all superficial jokes; and might be equally well seen whatever we saw
+beneath them. A man may smile and smile and be a villain; but a man may
+also make us smile and not be a villain. He may make us smile and not
+even be a fool. He may make us roar with laughter and be an exceedingly
+wise man.
+
+Now that is the paradox of America which Dickens never discovered.
+Elijah Pogram was far more fantastic than his satirist thought; and the
+most grotesque feature of Brick and Chollop was hidden from him. The
+really strange thing was that Pogram probably did say, 'Rough he may be.
+So air our bars. Wild he may be. So air our buffalers,' and yet was a
+perfectly intelligent and public-spirited citizen while he said it. The
+extraordinary thing is that Jefferson Brick may really have said, 'The
+libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood,' and yet
+Jefferson Brick may have served freedom, resisting unto blood. There
+really has been a florid school of rhetoric in the United States which
+has made it quite possible for serious and sensible men to say such
+things. It is amusing simply as a difference of idiom or costume is
+always amusing; just as English idiom and English costume are amusing to
+Americans. But about this kind of difference there can be no kind of
+doubt. So sturdy not to say stuffy a materialist as Ingersoll could say
+of so shoddy not to say shady a financial politician as Blaine, 'Like an
+arméd warrior, like a pluméd knight, James G. Blaine strode down the
+hall of Congress, and flung his spear full and true at the shield of
+every enemy of his country and every traducer of his fair name.'
+Compared with that, the passage about bears and buffaloes, which Mr.
+Pogram delivered in defence of the defaulting post-master, is really a
+very reasonable and appropriate statement. For bears and buffaloes are
+wild and rough and in that sense free; while pluméd knights do not throw
+their lances about like the assegais of Zulus. And the defaulting
+post-master was at least as good a person to praise in such a fashion as
+James G. Blaine of the Little Rock Railway. But anybody who had treated
+Ingersoll or Blaine merely as a fool and a figure of fun would have very
+rapidly found out his mistake. But Dickens did not know Brick or Chollop
+long enough to find out his mistake. It need not be denied that, even
+after a full understanding, he might still have found things to smile at
+or to criticise. I do not insist on his admitting that Hannibal Chollop
+was as great a hero as Hannibal, or that Elijah Pogram was as true a
+prophet as Elijah. But I do say very seriously that they had something
+about their atmosphere and situation that made possible a sort of
+heroism and even a sort of prophecy that were really less natural at
+that period in that Merry England whose comedy and common sense we sum
+up under the name of Dickens. When we joke about the name of Hannibal
+Chollop, we might remember of what nation was the general who dismissed
+his defeated soldiers at Appomatox with words which the historian has
+justly declared to be worthy of Hannibal: 'We have fought through this
+war together. I have done my best for you.' It is not fair to forget
+Jefferson, or even Jefferson Davis, entirely in favour of Jefferson
+Brick.
+
+For all these three things, good, bad, and indifferent, go together to
+form something that Dickens missed, merely because the England of his
+time most disastrously missed it. In this case, as in every case, the
+only way to measure justly the excess of a foreign country is to measure
+the defect of our own country. For in this matter the human mind is the
+victim of a curious little unconscious trick, the cause of nearly all
+international dislikes. A man treats his own faults as original sin and
+supposes them scattered everywhere with the seed of Adam. He supposes
+that men have then added their own foreign vices to the solid and simple
+foundation of his own private vices. It would astound him to realise
+that they have actually, by their strange erratic path, avoided his
+vices as well as his virtues. His own faults are things with which he is
+so much at home that he at once forgets and assumes them abroad. He is
+so faintly conscious of them in himself that he is not even conscious of
+the absence of them in other people. He assumes that they are there so
+that he does not see that they are not there. The Englishman takes it
+for granted that a Frenchman will have all the English faults. Then he
+goes on to be seriously angry with the Frenchman for having dared to
+complicate them by the French faults. The notion that the Frenchman has
+the French faults and _not_ the English faults is a paradox too wild to
+cross his mind.
+
+He is like an old Chinaman who should laugh at Europeans for wearing
+ludicrous top-hats and curling up their pig-tails inside them; because
+obviously all men have pig-tails, as all monkeys have tails. Or he is
+like an old Chinese lady who should justly deride the high-heeled shoes
+of the West, considering them a needless addition to the sufficiently
+tight and secure bandaging of the foot; for, of course, all women bind
+up their feet, as all women bind up their hair. What these Celestial
+thinkers would not think of, or allow for, is the wild possibility that
+we do not have pig-tails although we do have top-hats, or that our
+ladies are not silly enough to have Chinese feet, though they are silly
+enough to have high-heeled shoes. Nor should we necessarily have come an
+inch nearer to the Chinese extravagances even if the chimney-pot hat
+rose higher than a factory chimney or the high heels had evolved into a
+sort of stilts. By the same fallacy the Englishman will not only curse
+the French peasant as a miser, but will also try to tip him as a beggar.
+That is, he will first complain of the man having the surliness of an
+independent man, and then accuse him of having the servility of a
+dependent one. Just as the hypothetical Chinaman cannot believe that we
+have top-hats but not pig-tails, so the Englishman cannot believe that
+peasants are not snobs even when they are savages. Or he sees that a
+Paris paper is violent and sensational; and then supposes that some
+millionaire owns twenty such papers and runs them as a newspaper trust.
+Surely the Yellow Press is present everywhere to paint the map yellow,
+as the British Empire to paint it red. It never occurs to such a critic
+that the French paper is violent because it is personal, and personal
+because it belongs to a real and responsible person, and not to a ring
+of nameless millionaires. It is a pamphlet, and not an anonymous
+pamphlet. In a hundred other cases the same truth could be illustrated;
+the situation in which the black man first assumes that all mankind is
+black, and then accuses the rest of the artificial vice of painting
+their faces red and yellow, or the hypocrisy of white-washing
+themselves after the fashion of whited sepulchres. The particular case
+of it now before us is that of the English misunderstanding of America;
+and it is based, as in all these cases, on the English misunderstanding
+of England.
+
+For the truth is that England has suffered of late from not having
+enough of the free shooting of Hannibal Chollop; from not understanding
+enough that the libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood.
+The prosperous Englishman will not admit this; but then the prosperous
+Englishman will not admit that he has suffered from anything. That is
+what he is suffering from. Until lately at least he refused to realise
+that many of his modern habits had been bad habits, the worst of them
+being contentment. For all the real virtue in contentment evaporates,
+when the contentment is only satisfaction and the satisfaction is only
+self-satisfaction. Now it is perfectly true that America and not England
+has seen the most obvious and outrageous official denials of liberty.
+But it is equally true that it has seen the most obvious flouting of
+such official nonsense, far more obvious than any similar evasions in
+England. And nobody who knows the subconscious violence of the American
+character would ever be surprised if the weapons of Chollop began to be
+used in that most lawful lawlessness. It is perfectly true that the
+libation of freedom must sometimes be drunk in blood, and never more
+(one would think) than when mad millionaires forbid it to be drunk in
+beer. But America, as compared with England, is the country where one
+can still fancy men obtaining the libation of beer by the libation of
+blood. Vulgar plutocracy is almost omnipotent in both countries; but I
+think there is now more kick of reaction against it in America than in
+England. The Americans may go mad when they make laws; but they recover
+their reason when they disobey them. I wish I could believe that there
+was as much of that destructive repentance in England; as indeed there
+certainly was when Cobbett wrote. It faded gradually like a dying fire
+through the Victorian era; and it was one of the very few realities that
+Dickens did not understand. But any one who does understand it will know
+that the days of Cobbett saw the last lost fight for English democracy;
+and that if he had stood at that turning of the historic road, he would
+have wished a better fate to the frame-breakers and the fury against the
+first machinery, and luck to the Luddite fires.
+
+Anyhow, what is wanted is a new Martin Chuzzlewit, told by a wiser Mark
+Tapley. It is typical of something sombre and occasionally stale in the
+mood of Dickens when he wrote that book, that the comic servant is not
+really very comic. Mark Tapley is a very thin shadow of Sam Weller. But
+if Dickens had written it in a happier mood, there might have been a
+truer meaning in Mark Tapley's happiness. For it is true that this
+illogical good humour amid unreason and disorder is one of the real
+virtues of the English people. It is the real advantage they have in
+that adventure all over the world, which they were recently and
+reluctantly induced to call an Empire. That receptive ridicule remains
+with them as a secret pleasure when they are colonists--or convicts.
+Dickens might have written another version of the great romance, and one
+in which America was really seen gaily by Mark instead of gloomily by
+Martin. Mark Tapley might really have made the best of America. Then
+America would have lived and danced before us like Pickwick's England, a
+fairyland of happy lunatics and lovable monsters, and we might still
+have sympathised as much with the rhetoric of Lafayette Kettle as with
+the rhetoric of Wilkins Micawber, or with the violence of Chollop as
+with the violence of Boythorn. That new Martin Chuzzlewit will never be
+written; and the loss of it is more tragic than the loss of _Edwin
+Drood_. But every man who has travelled in America has seen glimpses and
+episodes in that untold tale; and far away on the Red-Indian frontiers
+or in the hamlets in the hills of Pennsylvania, there are people whom I
+met for a few hours or for a few moments, whom I none the less sincerely
+like and respect because I cannot but smile as I think of them. But the
+converse is also true; they have probably forgotten me; but if they
+remember they laugh.
+
+
+
+
+_The Spirit of America_
+
+
+I suggest that diplomatists of the internationalist school should spend
+some of their money on staging farces and comedies of cross-purposes,
+founded on the curious and prevalent idea that England and America have
+the same language. I know, of course, that we both inherit the glorious
+tongue of Shakespeare, not to mention the tune of the musical glasses;
+but there have been moments when I thought that if we spoke Greek and
+they spoke Latin we might understand each other better. For Greek and
+Latin are at least fixed, while American at least is still very fluid. I
+do not know the American language, and therefore I do not claim to
+distinguish between the American language and the American slang. But I
+know that highly theatrical developments might follow on taking the
+words as part of the English slang or the English language. I have
+already given the example of calling a person 'a regular guy,' which in
+the States is a graceful expression of respect and esteem, but which on
+the stage, properly handled, might surely lead the way towards a divorce
+or duel or something lively. Sometimes coincidence merely clinches a
+mistake, as it so often clinches a misprint. Every proof-reader knows
+that the worst misprint is not that which makes nonsense but that which
+makes sense; not that which is obviously wrong but that which is
+hideously right. He who has essayed to write 'he got the book,' and has
+found it rendered mysteriously as 'he got the boob' is pensively
+resigned. It is when it is rendered quite lucidly as 'he got the boot'
+that he is moved to a more passionate mood of regret. I have had
+conversations in which this sort of accident would have wholly misled
+me, if another accident had not come to the rescue. An American friend
+of mine was telling me of his adventures as a cinema-producer down in
+the south-west where real Red Indians were procurable. He said that
+certain Indians were 'very bad actors.' It passed for me as a very
+ordinary remark on a very ordinary or natural deficiency. It would
+hardly seem a crushing criticism to say that some wild Arab chieftain
+was not very good at imitating a farmyard; or that the Grand Llama of
+Thibet was rather clumsy at making paper boats. But the remark might be
+natural in a man travelling in paper boats, or touring with an invisible
+farmyard for his menagerie. As my friend was a cinema-producer, I
+supposed he meant that the Indians were bad cinema actors. But the
+phrase has really a high and austere moral meaning, which my levity had
+wholly missed. A bad actor means a man whose actions are bad or morally
+reprehensible. So that I might have embraced a Red Indian who was
+dripping with gore, or covered with atrocious crimes, imagining there
+was nothing the matter with him beyond a mistaken choice of the
+theatrical profession. Surely there are here the elements of a play, not
+to mention a cinema play. Surely a New England village maiden might find
+herself among the wigwams in the power of the formidable and fiendish
+'Little Blue Bison,' merely through her mistaken sympathy with his
+financial failure as a Film Star. The notion gives me glimpses of all
+sorts of dissolving views of primeval forests and flamboyant theatres;
+but this impulse of irrelevant theatrical production must be curbed.
+There is one example, however, of this complication of language actually
+used in contrary senses, about which the same figure can be used to
+illustrate a more serious fact.
+
+Suppose that, in such an international interlude, an English girl and an
+American girl are talking about the fiancé of the former, who is coming
+to call. The English girl will be haughty and aristocratic (on the
+stage), the American girl will of course have short hair and skirts and
+will be cynical; Americans being more completely free from cynicism than
+any people in the world. It is the great glory of Americans that they
+are not cynical; for that matter, English aristocrats are hardly ever
+haughty; they understand the game much better than that. But on the
+stage, anyhow, the American girl may say, referring to her friend's
+fiancé, with a cynical wave of the cigarette, 'I suppose he's bound to
+come and see you.' And at this the blue blood of the Vere de Veres will
+boil over; the English lady will be deeply wounded and insulted at the
+suggestion that her lover only comes to see her because he is forced to
+do so. A staggering stage quarrel will then ensue, and things will go
+from bad to worse; until the arrival of an Interpreter who can talk both
+English and American. He stands between the two ladies waving two pocket
+dictionaries, and explains the error on which the quarrel turns. It is
+very simple; like the seed of all tragedies. In English 'he is bound to
+come and see you' means that he is obliged or constrained to come and
+see you. In American it does not. In American it means that he is bent
+on coming to see you, that he is irrevocably resolved to do so, and will
+surmount any obstacle to do it. The two young ladies will then embrace
+as the curtain falls.
+
+Now when I was lecturing in America I was often told, in a radiant and
+congratulatory manner, that such and such a person was bound to come and
+hear me lecture. It seemed a very cruel form of conscription, and I
+could not understand what authority could have made it compulsory. In
+the course of discovering my error, however, I thought I began to
+understand certain American ideas and instincts that lie behind this
+American idiom. For as I have urged before, and shall often urge again,
+the road to international friendship is through really understanding
+jokes. It is in a sense through taking jokes seriously. It is quite
+legitimate to laugh at a man who walks down the street in three white
+hats and a green dressing gown, because it is unfamiliar; but after all
+the man has _some_ reason for what he does; and until we know the reason
+we do not understand the story, or even understand the joke. So the
+outlander will always seem outlandish in custom or costume; but serious
+relations depend on our getting beyond the fact of difference to the
+things wherein it differs. A good symbolical figure for all this may be
+found among the people who say, perhaps with a self-revealing
+simplicity, that they are bound to go to a lecture.
+
+If I were asked for a single symbolic figure summing up the whole of
+what seems eccentric and interesting about America to an Englishman, I
+should be satisfied to select that one lady who complained of Mrs.
+Asquith's lecture and wanted her money back. I do not mean that she was
+typically American in complaining; far from it. I, for one, have a great
+and guilty knowledge of all that amiable American audiences will endure
+without complaint. I do not mean that she was typically American in
+wanting her money; quite the contrary. That sort of American spends
+money rather than hoards it; and when we convict them of vulgarity we
+acquit them of avarice. Where she was typically American, summing up a
+truth individual and indescribable in any other way, is that she used
+these words: 'I've risen from a sick-bed to come and hear her, and I
+want my money back.'
+
+The element in that which really amuses an Englishman is precisely the
+element which, properly analysed, ought to make him admire an American.
+But my point is that only by going through the amusement can he reach
+the admiration. The amusement is in the vision of a tragic sacrifice for
+what is avowedly a rather trivial object. Mrs. Asquith is a candid lady
+of considerable humour; and I feel sure she does not regard the
+experience of hearing her read her diary as an ecstasy for which the
+sick should thus suffer martyrdom. She also is English; and had no other
+claim but to amuse Americans and possibly to be amused by them. This
+being so, it is rather as if somebody said, 'I have risked my life in
+fire and pestilence to find my way to the music hall,' or, 'I have
+fasted forty days in the wilderness sustained by the hope of seeing
+Totty Toddles do her new dance.' And there is something rather more
+subtle involved here. There is something in an Englishman which would
+make him feel faintly ashamed of saying that he had fasted to hear
+Totty Toddles, or risen from a sick-bed to hear Mrs. Asquith. He would
+feel that it was undignified to confess that he had wanted mere
+amusement so much; and perhaps that he had wanted anything so much. He
+would not like, so to speak, to be seen rushing down the street after
+Totty Toddles, or after Mrs. Asquith, or perhaps after anybody. But
+there is something in it distinct from a mere embarrassment at admitting
+enthusiasm. He might admit the enthusiasm if the object seemed to
+justify it; he might perfectly well be serious about a serious thing.
+But he cannot understand a person being proud of serious sacrifices for
+what is not a serious thing. He does not like to admit that a little
+thing can excite him; that he can lose his breath in running, or lose
+his balance in reaching, after something that might be called silly.
+
+Now that is where the American is fundamentally different. To him the
+enthusiasm itself is meritorious. To him the excitement itself is
+dignified. He counts it a part of his manhood to fast or fight or rise
+from a bed of sickness for something, or possibly for anything. His
+ideal is not to be a lock that only a worthy key can open, but a 'live
+wire' that anything can touch or anybody can use. In a word, there is a
+difference in the very definition of virility and therefore of virtue. A
+live wire is not only active, it is also sensitive. Thus sensibility
+becomes actually a part of virility. Something more is involved than the
+vulgar simplification of the American as the irresistible force and the
+Englishman as the immovable post. As a fact, those who speak of such
+things nowadays generally mean by something irresistible something
+simply immovable, or at least something unalterable, motionless even in
+motion, like a cannon ball; for a cannon ball is as dead as a cannon.
+Prussian militarism was praised in that way--until it met a French force
+of about half its size on the banks of the Marne. But that is not what
+an American means by energy; that sort of Prussian energy is only
+monotony without repose. American energy is not a soulless machine; for
+it is the whole point that he puts his soul into it. It is a very small
+box for so big a thing; but it is not an empty box. But the point is
+that he is not only proud of his energy, he is proud of his excitement.
+He is not ashamed of his emotion, of the fire or even the tear in his
+manly eye, when he tells you that the great wheel of his machine breaks
+four billion butterflies an hour.
+
+That is the point about American sport; that it is not in the least
+sportive. It is because it is not very sportive that we sometimes say it
+is not very sporting. It has the vices of a religion. It has all the
+paradox of original sin in the service of aboriginal faith. It is
+sometimes untruthful because it is sincere. It is sometimes treacherous
+because it is loyal. Men lie and cheat for it as they lied for their
+lords in a feudal conspiracy, or cheated for their chieftains in a
+Highland feud. We may say that the vassal readily committed treason; but
+it is equally true that he readily endured torture. So does the American
+athlete endure torture. Not only the self-sacrifice but the solemnity of
+the American athlete is like that of the American Indian. The athletes
+in the States have the attitude of the athletes among the Spartans, the
+great historical nation without a sense of humour. They suffer an
+ascetic régime not to be matched in any monasticism and hardly in any
+militarism. If any tradition of these things remains in a saner age,
+they will probably be remembered as a mysterious religious order of
+fakirs or dancing dervishes, who shaved their heads and fasted in honour
+of Hercules or Castor and Pollux. And that is really the spiritual
+atmosphere though the gods have vanished; and the religion is
+subconscious and therefore irrational. For the problem of the modern
+world is that it has continued to be religious when it has ceased to be
+rational. Americans really would starve to win a cocoa-nut shy. They
+would fast or bleed to win a race of paper boats on a pond. They would
+rise from a sick-bed to listen to Mrs. Asquith.
+
+But it is the real reason that interests me here. It is certainly not
+that Americans are so stupid as not to know that cocoa-nuts are only
+cocoa-nuts and paper boats only made of paper. Americans are, on an
+average, rather more intelligent than Englishmen; and they are well
+aware that Hercules is a myth and that Mrs. Asquith is something of a
+mythologist. It is not that they do not know that the object is small in
+itself; it is that they do really believe that the enthusiasm is great
+in itself. They admire people for being impressionable. They admire
+people for being excited. An American so struggling for some
+disproportionate trifle (like one of my lectures) really feels in a
+mystical way that he is right, because it is his whole morality to be
+keen. So long as he wants something very much, whatever it is, he feels
+he has his conscience behind him, and the common sentiment of society
+behind him, and God and the whole universe behind him. Wedged on one leg
+in a hot crowd at a trivial lecture, he has self-respect; his dignity
+is at rest. That is what he means when he says he is bound to come to
+the lecture.
+
+Now the Englishman is fond of occasional larks. But these things are not
+larks; nor are they occasional. It is the essential of the Englishman's
+lark that he should think it a lark; that he should laugh at it even
+when he does it. Being English myself, I like it; but being English
+myself, I know it is connected with weaknesses as well as merits. In its
+irony there is condescension and therefore embarrassment. This patronage
+is allied to the patron, and the patron is allied to the aristocratic
+tradition of society. The larks are a variant of laziness because of
+leisure; and the leisure is a variant of the security and even supremacy
+of the gentleman. When an undergraduate at Oxford smashes half a hundred
+windows he is well aware that the incident is merely a trifle. He can be
+trusted to explain to his parents and guardians that it was merely a
+trifle. He does not say, even in the American sense, that he was bound
+to smash the windows. He does not say that he had risen from a sick-bed
+to smash the windows. He does not especially think he has risen at all;
+he knows he has descended (though with delight, like one diving or
+sliding down the banisters) to something flat and farcical and full of
+the English taste for the bathos. He has collapsed into something
+entirely commonplace; though the owners of the windows may possibly not
+think so. This rather indescribable element runs through a hundred
+English things, as in the love of bathos shown even in the sound of
+proper names; so that even the yearning lover in a lyric yearns for
+somebody named Sally rather than Salome, and for a place called Wapping
+rather than a place called Westermain. Even in the relapse into
+rowdiness there is a sort of relapse into comfort. There is also what is
+so large a part of comfort; carelessness. The undergraduate breaks
+windows because he does not care about windows, not because he does care
+about more fresh air like a hygienist, or about more light like a German
+poet. Still less does he heroically smash a hundred windows because they
+come between him and the voice of Mrs. Asquith. But least of all does he
+do it because he seriously prides himself on the energy apart from its
+aim, and on the will-power that carries it through. He is not 'bound' to
+smash the windows, even in the sense of being bent upon it. He is not
+bound at all but rather relaxed; and his violence is not only a
+relaxation but a laxity. Finally, this is shown in the fact that he only
+smashes windows when he is in the mood to smash windows; when some
+fortunate conjunction of stars and all the tints and nuances of nature
+whisper to him that it would be well to smash windows. But the American
+is always ready, at any moment, to waste his energies on the wilder and
+more suicidal course of going to lectures. And this is because to him
+such excitement is not a mood but a moral ideal. As I note in another
+connection, much of the English mystery would be clear to Americans if
+they understood the word 'mood.' Englishmen are very moody, especially
+when they smash windows. But I doubt if many Americans understand
+exactly what we mean by the mood; especially the passive mood.
+
+It is only by trying to get some notion of all this that an Englishman
+can enjoy the final crown and fruit of all international friendship;
+which is really liking an American to be American. If we only think that
+parts of him are excellent because parts of him are English, it would be
+far more sensible to stop at home and possibly enjoy the society of a
+whole complete Englishman. But anybody who does understand this can take
+the same pleasure in an American being American that he does in a
+thunderbolt being swift and a barometer being sensitive. He can see that
+a vivid sensibility and vigilance really radiate outwards through all
+the ramifications of machinery and even of materialism. He can see that
+the American uses his great practical powers upon very small
+provocation; but he can also see that there is a kind of sense of
+honour, like that of a duellist, in his readiness to be provoked.
+Indeed, there is some parallel between the American man of action,
+however vulgar his aims, and the old feudal idea of the gentleman with a
+sword at his side. The gentleman may have been proud of being strong or
+sturdy; he may too often have been proud of being thick-headed; but he
+was not proud of being thick-skinned. On the contrary, he was proud of
+being thin-skinned. He also seriously thought that sensitiveness was a
+part of masculinity. It may be very absurd to read of two Irish
+gentlemen trying to kill each other for trifles, or of two
+Irish-American millionaires trying to ruin each other for trash. But the
+very pettiness of the pretext and even the purpose illustrates the same
+conception; which may be called the virtue of excitability. And it is
+really this, and not any rubbish about iron will-power and masterful
+mentality, that redeems with romance their clockwork cosmos and its
+industrial ideals. Being a live wire does not mean that the nerves
+should be like wires; but rather that the very wires should be like
+nerves.
+
+Another approximation to the truth would be to say that an American is
+really not ashamed of curiosity. It is not so simple as it looks. Men
+will carry off curiosity with various kinds of laughter and bravado,
+just as they will carry off drunkenness or bankruptcy. But very few
+people are really proud of lying on a door-step, and very few people are
+really proud of longing to look through a key-hole. I do not speak of
+looking through it, which involves questions of honour and self-control;
+but few people feel that even the desire is dignified. Now I fancy the
+American, at least by comparison with the Englishman, does feel that his
+curiosity is consistent with his dignity, because dignity is consistent
+with vivacity. He feels it is not merely the curiosity of Paul Pry, but
+the curiosity of Christopher Columbus. He is not a spy but an explorer;
+and he feels his greatness rather grow with his refusal to turn back, as
+a traveller might feel taller and taller as he neared the source of the
+Nile or the North-West Passage. Many an Englishman has had that feeling
+about discoveries in dark continents; but he does not often have it
+about discoveries in daily life. The one type does believe in the
+indignity and the other in the dignity of the detective. It has nothing
+to do with ethics in the merely external sense. It involves no
+particular comparison in practical morals and manners. It is something
+in the whole poise and posture of the self; of the way a man carries
+himself. For men are not only affected by what they are; but still more,
+when they are fools, by what they think they are; and when they are
+wise, by what they wish to be.
+
+There are truths that have almost become untrue by becoming untruthful.
+There are statements so often stale and insincere that one hesitates to
+use them, even when they stand for something more subtle. This point
+about curiosity is not the conventional complaint against the American
+interviewer. It is not the ordinary joke against the American child. And
+in the same way I feel the danger of it being identified with the cant
+about 'a young nation' if I say that it has some of the attractions, not
+of American childhood, but of real childhood. There is some truth in the
+tradition that the children of wealthy Americans tend to be too
+precocious and luxurious. But there is a sense in which we can really
+say that if the children are like adults, the adults are like children.
+And that sense is in the very best sense of childhood. It is something
+which the modern world does not understand. It is something that modern
+Americans do not understand, even when they possess it; but I think they
+do possess it.
+
+The devil can quote Scripture for his purpose; and the text of Scripture
+which he now most commonly quotes is, 'The kingdom of heaven is within
+you.' That text has been the stay and support of more Pharisees and
+prigs and self-righteous spiritual bullies than all the dogmas in
+creation; it has served to identify self-satisfaction with the peace
+that passes all understanding. And the text to be quoted in answer to it
+is that which declares that no man can receive the kingdom except as a
+little child. What we are to have inside is the childlike spirit; but
+the childlike spirit is not entirely concerned about what is inside. It
+is the first mark of possessing it that one is interested in what is
+outside. The most childlike thing about a child is his curiosity and his
+appetite and his power of wonder at the world. We might almost say that
+the whole advantage of having the kingdom within is that we look for it
+somewhere else.
+
+
+
+
+_The Spirit of England_
+
+
+Nine times out of ten a man's broad-mindedness is necessarily the
+narrowest thing about him. This is not particularly paradoxical; it is,
+when we come to think of it, quite inevitable. His vision of his own
+village may really be full of varieties; and even his vision of his own
+nation may have a rough resemblance to the reality. But his vision of
+the world is probably smaller than the world. His vision of the universe
+is certainly much smaller than the universe. Hence he is never so
+inadequate as when he is universal; he is never so limited as when he
+generalises. This is the fallacy in the many modern attempts at a
+creedless creed, at something variously described as essential
+Christianity or undenominational religion or a world faith to embrace
+all the faiths in the world. It is that every sectarian is more
+sectarian in his unsectarianism than he is in his sect. The emancipation
+of a Baptist is a very Baptist emancipation. The charity of a Buddhist
+is a very Buddhist charity, and very different from Christian charity.
+When a philosophy embraces everything it generally squeezes everything,
+and squeezes it out of shape; when it digests it necessarily
+assimilates. When a theosophist absorbs Christianity it is rather as a
+cannibal absorbs Christian missionaries. In this sense it is even
+possible for the larger thing to be swallowed by the smaller; and for
+men to move about not only in a Clapham sect but in a Clapham cosmos
+under Clapham moon and stars.
+
+But if this danger exists for all men, it exists especially for the
+Englishman. The Englishman is never so insular as when he is imperial;
+except indeed when he is international. In private life he is a good
+friend and in practical politics generally a good ally. But theoretical
+politics are more practical than practical politics. And in theoretical
+politics the Englishman is the worst ally the world ever saw. This is
+all the more curious because he has passed so much of his historical
+life in the character of an ally. He has been in twenty great alliances
+and never understood one of them. He has never been farther away from
+European politics than when he was fighting heroically in the thick of
+them. I myself think that this splendid isolation is sometimes really
+splendid; so long as it is isolation and does not imagine itself to be
+imperialism or internationalism. With the idea of being international,
+with the idea of being imperial, comes the frantic and farcical idea of
+being impartial. Generally speaking, men are never so mean and false and
+hypocritical as when they are occupied in being impartial. They are
+performing the first and most typical of all the actions of the devil;
+they are claiming the throne of God. Even when it is not hypocrisy but
+only mental confusion, it is always a confusion worse and worse
+confounded. We see it in the impartial historians of the Victorian Age,
+who now seem far more Victorian than the partial historians. Hallam
+wrote about the Middle Ages; but Hallam was far less mediaeval than
+Macaulay; for Macaulay was at least a fighter. Huxley had more mediaeval
+sympathies than Herbert Spencer for the same reason; that Huxley was a
+fighter. They both fought in many ways for the limitations of their own
+rationalistic epoch; but they were nearer the truth than the men who
+simply assumed those limitations as rational. The war of the
+controversionalists was a wider thing than the peace of the arbiters.
+And in the same way the Englishman never cuts a less convincing figure
+before other nations than when he tries to arbitrate between them.
+
+I have by this time heard a great deal about the necessity of saving
+Anglo-American friendship, a necessity which I myself feel rather too
+strongly to be satisfied with the ambassadorial and editorial style of
+achieving it. I have already said that the worst style of all is to be
+Anglo-American; or, as the more illiterate would express, to be
+Anglo-Saxon. I am more and more convinced that the way for the
+Englishman to do it is to be English; but to know that he is English and
+not everything else as well. Thus the only sincere answer to Irish
+nationalism is English nationalism, which is a reality; and not English
+imperialism, which is a reactionary fiction, or English
+internationalism, which is a revolutionary one.
+
+For the English are reviled for their imperialism because they are not
+imperialistic. They dislike it, which is the real reason why they do it
+badly; and they do it badly, which is the real reason why they are
+disliked when they do it. Nobody calls France imperialistic because she
+has absorbed Brittany. But everybody calls England imperialistic because
+she has not absorbed Ireland. The Englishman is fixed and frozen for
+ever in the attitude of a ruthless conqueror; not because he has
+conquered such people, but because he has not conquered them; but he is
+always trying to conquer them with a heroism worthy of a better cause.
+For the really native and vigorous part of what is unfortunately called
+the British Empire is not an empire at all, and does not consist of
+these conquered provinces at all. It is not an empire but an adventure;
+which is probably a much finer thing. It was not the power of making
+strange countries similar to our own, but simply the pleasure of seeing
+strange countries because they were different from our own. The
+adventurer did indeed, like the third son, set out to seek his fortune,
+but not primarily to alter other people's fortunes; he wished to trade
+with people rather than to rule them. But as the other people remained
+different from him, so did he remain different from them. The adventurer
+saw a thousand strange things and remained a stranger. He was the
+Robinson Crusoe on a hundred desert islands; and on each he remained as
+insular as on his own island.
+
+What is wanted for the cause of England to-day is an Englishman with
+enough imagination to love his country from the outside as well as the
+inside. That is, we need somebody who will do for the English what has
+never been done for them, but what is done for any outlandish peasantry
+or even any savage tribe. We want people who can make England
+attractive; quite apart from disputes about whether England is strong or
+weak. We want somebody to explain, not that England is everywhere, but
+what England is anywhere; not that England is or is not really dying,
+but why we do not want her to die. For this purpose the official and
+conventional compliments or claims can never get any farther than
+pompous abstractions about Law and Justice and Truth; the ideals which
+England accepts as every civilised state accepts them, and violates as
+every civilised state violates them. That is not the way in which the
+picture of any people has ever been painted on the sympathetic
+imagination of the world. Enthusiasts for old Japan did not tell us that
+the Japs recognised the existence of abstract morality; but that they
+lived in paper houses or wrote letters with paint-brushes. Men who
+wished to interest us in Arabs did not confine themselves to saying that
+they are monotheists or moralists; they filled our romances with the
+rush of Arab steeds or the colours of strange tents or carpets. What we
+want is somebody who will do for the Englishman with his front garden
+what was done for the Jap and his paper house; who shall understand the
+Englishman with his dog as well as the Arab with his horse. In a word,
+what nobody has really tried to do is the one thing that really wants
+doing. It is to make England attractive as a nationality, and even as a
+small nationality.
+
+For it is a wild folly to suppose that nations will love each other
+because they are alike. They will never really do that unless they are
+really alike; and then they will not be nations. Nations can love each
+other as men and women love each other, not because they are alike but
+because they are different. It can easily be shown, I fancy, that in
+every case where a real public sympathy was aroused for some unfortunate
+foreign people, it has always been accompanied with a particular and
+positive interest in their most foreign customs and their most foreign
+externals. The man who made a romance of the Scotch High-lander made a
+romance of his kilt and even of his dirk; the friend of the Red Indians
+was interested in picture writing and had some tendency to be
+interested in scalping. To take a more serious example, such nations as
+Serbia had been largely commended to international consideration by the
+study of Serbian epics, or Serbian songs. The epoch of negro
+emancipation was also the epoch of negro melodies. Those who wept over
+Uncle Tom also laughed over Uncle Remus. And just as the admiration for
+the Redskin almost became an apology for scalping, the mysterious
+fascination of the African has sometimes almost led us into the fringes
+of the black forest of Voodoo. But the sort of interest that is felt
+even in the scalp-hunter and the cannibal, the torturer and the
+devil-worshipper, that sort of interest has never been felt in the
+Englishman.
+
+And this is the more extraordinary because the Englishman is really very
+interesting. He is interesting in a special degree in this special
+manner; he is interesting because he is individual. No man in the world
+is more misrepresented by everything official or even in the ordinary
+sense national. A description of English life must be a description of
+private life. In that sense there is no public life. In that sense there
+is no public opinion. There have never been those prairie fires of
+public opinion in England which often sweep over America. At any rate,
+there have never been any such popular revolutions since the popular
+revolutions of the Middle Ages. The English are a nation of amateurs;
+they are even a nation of eccentrics. An Englishman is never more
+English than when he is considered a lunatic by the other Englishmen.
+This can be clearly seen in a figure like Dr. Johnson, who has become
+national not by being normal but by being extraordinary. To express this
+mysterious people, to explain or suggest why they like tall hedges and
+heavy breakfasts and crooked roads and small gardens with large fences,
+and why they alone among Christians have kept quite consistently the
+great Christian glory of the open fireplace, here would be a strange and
+stimulating opportunity for any of the artists in words, who study the
+souls of strange peoples. That would be the true way to create a
+friendship between England and America, or between England and anything
+else; yes, even between England and Ireland. For this justice at least
+has already been done to Ireland; and as an indignant patriot I demand a
+more equal treatment for the two nations.
+
+I have already noted the commonplace that in order to teach
+internationalism we must talk nationalism. We must make the nations as
+nations less odious or mysterious to each other. We do not make men love
+each other by describing a monster with a million arms and legs, but by
+describing the men as men, with their separate and even solitary
+emotions. As this has a particular application to the emotions of the
+Englishman, I will return to the topic once more. Now Americans have a
+power that is the soul and success of democracy, the power of
+spontaneous social organisation. Their high spirits, their humane ideals
+are really creative, they abound in unofficial institutions; we might
+almost say in unofficial officialism. Nobody who has felt the presence
+of all the leagues and guilds and college clubs will deny that Whitman
+was national when he said he would build states and cities out of the
+love of comrades. When all this communal enthusiasm collides with the
+Englishman, it too often seems literally to leave him cold. They say he
+is reserved; they possibly think he is rude. And the Englishman, having
+been taught his own history all wrong, is only too likely to take the
+criticism as a compliment. He admits that he is reserved because he is
+stern and strong; or even that he is rude because he is shrewd and
+candid. But as a fact he is not rude and not especially reserved; at
+least reserve is not the meaning of his reluctance. The real difference
+lies, I think, in the fact that American high spirits are not only high
+but level; that the hilarious American spirit is like a plateau, and the
+humorous English spirit like a ragged mountain range.
+
+The Englishman is moody; which does not in the least mean that the
+Englishman is morose. Dickens, as we all feel in reading his books, was
+boisterously English. Dickens was moody when he wrote _Oliver Twist_;
+but he was also moody when he wrote _Pickwick_. That is, he was in
+another and much healthier mood. The mood was normal to him in the sense
+that nine times out of ten he felt and wrote in that humorous and
+hilarious mood. But he was, if ever there was one, a man of moods; and
+all the more of a typical Englishman for being a man of moods. But it
+was because of this, almost entirely, that he had a misunderstanding
+with America.
+
+In America there are no moods, or there is only one mood. It is the same
+whether it is called hustle or uplift; whether we regard it as the
+heroic love of comrades or the last hysteria of the herd instinct. It
+has been said of the typical English aristocrats of the Government
+offices that they resemble certain ornamental fountains and play from
+ten till four; and it is true that an Englishman, even an English
+aristocrat, is not always inclined to play any more than to work. But
+American sociability is not like the Trafalgar fountains. It is like
+Niagara. It never stops, under the silent stars or the rolling storms.
+There seems always to be the same human heat and pressure behind it; it
+is like the central heating of hotels as explained in the advertisements
+and announcements. The temperature can be regulated; but it is not. And
+it is always rather overpowering for an Englishman, whose mood changes
+like his own mutable and shifting sky. The English mood is very like the
+English weather; it is a nuisance and a national necessity.
+
+If any one wishes to understand the quarrel between Dickens and the
+Americans, let him turn to that chapter in _Martin Chuzzlewit_, in which
+young Martin has to receive endless defiles and deputations of total
+strangers each announced by name and demanding formal salutation. There
+are several things to be noticed about this incident. To begin with, it
+did not happen to Martin Chuzzlewit; but it did happen to Charles
+Dickens. Dickens is incorporating almost without alteration a passage
+from a diary in the middle of a story; as he did when he included the
+admirable account of the prison petition of John Dickens as the prison
+petition of Wilkins Micawber. There is no particular reason why even the
+gregarious Americans should so throng the portals of a perfectly obscure
+steerage passenger like young Chuzzlewit. There was every reason why
+they should throng the portals of the author of _Pickwick_ and _Oliver
+Twist_. And no doubt they did. If I may be permitted the aleatory image,
+you bet they did. Similar troops of sociable human beings have visited
+much more insignificant English travellers in America, with some of whom
+I am myself acquainted. I myself have the luck to be a little more
+stodgy and less sensitive than many of my countrymen; and certainly less
+sensitive than Dickens. But I know what it was that annoyed him about
+that unending and unchanging stream of American visitors; it was the
+unending and unchanging stream of American sociability and high spirits.
+A people living on such a lofty but level tableland do not understand
+the ups and downs of the English temperament; the temper of a nation of
+eccentrics or (as they used to be called) of humorists. There is
+something very national in the very name of the old play of _Every Man
+in His Humour_. But the play more often acted in real life is 'Every Man
+Out of His Humour.' It is true, as Matthew Arnold said, that an
+Englishman wants to do as he likes; but it is not always true even that
+he likes what he likes. An Englishman can be friendly and yet not feel
+friendly. Or he can be friendly and yet not feel hospitable. Or he can
+feel hospitable and yet not welcome those whom he really loves. He can
+think, almost with tears of tenderness, about people at a distance who
+would be bores if they came in at the door.
+
+American sociability sweeps away any such subtlety. It cannot be
+expected to understand the paradox or perversity of the Englishman, who
+thus can feel friendly and avoid friends. That is the truth in the
+suggestion that Dickens was sentimental. It means that he probably felt
+most sociable when he was solitary. In all these attempts to describe
+the indescribable, to indicate the real but unconscious differences
+between the two peoples, I have tried to balance my words without the
+irrelevant bias of praise and blame. Both characteristics always cut
+both ways. On one side this comradeship makes possible a certain
+communal courage, a democratic derision of rich men in high places,
+that is not easy in our smaller and more stratified society. On the
+other hand the Englishman has certainly more liberty, if less equality
+and fraternity. But the richest compensation of the Englishman is not
+even in the word 'liberty,' but rather in the word 'poetry.' That humour
+of escape or seclusion, that genial isolation, that healing of wounded
+friendship by what Christian Science would call absent treatment, that
+is the best atmosphere of all for the creation of great poetry; and out
+of that came 'bare ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang' and
+'Thou wast not made for death, immortal bird.' In this sense it is
+indeed true that poetry is emotion remembered in tranquillity; which may
+be extended to mean affection remembered in loneliness. There is in it a
+spirit not only of detachment but even of distance; a spirit which does
+desire, as in the old English rhyme, to be not only over the hills but
+also far away. In other words, in so far as it is true that the
+Englishman is an exception to the great truth of Aristotle, it is
+because he is not so near to Aristotle as he is to Homer. In so far as
+he is not by nature a political animal, it is because he is a poetical
+animal. We see it in his relations to the other animals; his quaint and
+almost illogical love of dogs and horses and dependants whose political
+rights cannot possibly be defined in logic. Many forms of hunting or
+fishing are but an excuse for the same thing which the shameless
+literary man does without any excuse. Sport is speechless poetry. It
+would be easy for a foreigner, by taking a few liberties with the facts,
+to make a satire about the sort of silent Shelley who decides ultimately
+to shoot the skylark. It would be easy to answer these poetic
+suggestions by saying that he himself might be responsible for ruining
+the choirs where late the sweet birds sang, or that the immortal bird
+was likely to be mortal when he was out with his gun. But these
+international satires are never just; and the real relations of an
+Englishman and an English bird are far more delicate. It would be
+equally easy and equally unjust to suggest a similar satire against
+American democracy; and represent Americans merely as birds of a feather
+who can do nothing but flock together. But this would leave out the fact
+that at least it is not the white feather; that democracy is capable of
+defiance and of death for an idea. Touching the souls of great nations,
+these criticisms are generally false because they are critical.
+
+But when we are quite sure that we rejoice in a nation's strength, then
+and not before we are justified in judging its weakness. I am quite sure
+that I rejoice in any democratic success without _arričre pensée_; and
+nobody who knows me will credit me with a covert sneer at civic
+equality. And this being granted, I do think there is a danger in the
+gregariousness of American society. The danger of democracy is not
+anarchy; on the contrary, it is monotony. And it is touching this that
+all my experience has increased my conviction that a great deal that is
+called female emancipation has merely been the increase of female
+convention. Now the males of every community are far too conventional;
+it was the females who were individual and criticised the conventions of
+the tribe. If the females become conventional also, there is a danger of
+individuality being lost. This indeed is not peculiar to America; it is
+common to the whole modern industrial world, and to everything which
+substitutes the impersonal atmosphere of the State for the personal
+atmosphere of the home. But it is emphasised in America by the curious
+contradiction that Americans do in theory value and even venerate the
+individual. But individualism is still the foe of individuality. Where
+men are trying to compete with each other they are trying to copy each
+other. They become featureless by 'featuring' the same part.
+Personality, in becoming a conscious ideal, becomes a common ideal. In
+this respect perhaps there is really something to be learnt from the
+Englishman with his turn or twist in the direction of private life.
+Those who have travelled in such a fashion as to see all the American
+hotels and none of the American houses are sometimes driven to the
+excess of saying that the Americans have no private life. But even if
+the exaggeration has a hint of truth, we must balance it with the
+corresponding truth; that the English have no public life. They on their
+side have still to learn the meaning of the public thing, the republic;
+and how great are the dangers of cowardice and corruption when the very
+State itself has become a State secret.
+
+The English are patriotic; but patriotism is the unconscious form of
+nationalism. It is being national without understanding the meaning of a
+nation. The Americans are on the whole too self-conscious, kept moving
+too much in the pace of public life, with all its temptations to
+superficiality and fashion; too much aware of outside opinion and with
+too much appetite for outside criticism. But the English are much too
+unconscious; and would be the better for an increase in many forms of
+consciousness, including consciousness of sin. But even their sin is
+ignorance of their real virtue. The most admirable English things are
+not the things that are most admired by the English, or for which the
+English admire themselves. They are things now blindly neglected and in
+daily danger of being destroyed. It is all the worse that they should be
+destroyed, because there is really nothing like them in the world. That
+is why I have suggested a note of nationalism rather than patriotism for
+the English; the power of seeing their nation as a nation and not as the
+nature of things. We say of some ballad from the Balkans or some peasant
+costume in the Netherlands that it is unique; but the good things of
+England really are unique. Our very isolation from continental wars and
+revolutionary reconstructions have kept them unique. The particular kind
+of beauty there is in an English village, the particular kind of humour
+there is in an English public-house, are things that cannot be found in
+lands where the village is far more simply and equally governed, or
+where the vine is far more honourably served and praised. Yet we shall
+not save them by merely sinking into them with the conservative sort of
+contentment, even if the commercial rapacity of our plutocratic reforms
+would allow us to do so. We must in a sense get far away from England in
+order to behold her; we must rise above patriotism in order to be
+practically patriotic; we must have some sense of more varied and remote
+things before these vanishing virtues can be seen suddenly for what they
+are; almost as one might fancy that a man would have to rise to the
+dizziest heights of the divine understanding before he saw, as from a
+peak far above a whirlpool, how precious is his perishing soul.
+
+
+
+
+_The Future of Democracy_
+
+
+The title of this final chapter requires an apology. I do not need to be
+reminded, alas, that the whole book requires an apology. It is written
+in accordance with a ritual or custom in which I could see no particular
+harm, and which gives me a very interesting subject, but a custom which
+it would be not altogether easy to justify in logic. Everybody who goes
+to America for a short time is expected to write a book; and nearly
+everybody does. A man who takes a holiday at Trouville or Dieppe is not
+confronted on his return with the question, 'When is your book on France
+going to appear?' A man who betakes himself to Switzerland for the
+winter sports is not instantly pinned by the statement, 'I suppose your
+History of the Helvetian Republic is coming out this spring?' Lecturing,
+at least my kind of lecturing, is not much more serious or meritorious
+than ski-ing or sea-bathing; and it happens to afford the holiday-maker
+far less opportunity of seeing the daily life of the people. Of all this
+I am only too well aware; and my only defence is that I am at least
+sincere in my enjoyment and appreciation of America, and equally sincere
+in my interest in its most serious problem, which I think a very serious
+problem indeed; the problem of democracy in the modern world. Democracy
+may be a very obvious and facile affair for plutocrats and politicians
+who only have to use it as a rhetorical term. But democracy is a very
+serious problem for democrats. I certainly do not apologise for the word
+democracy; but I do apologise for the word future. I am no Futurist; and
+any conjectures I make must be taken with the grain of salt which is
+indeed the salt of the earth; the decent and moderate humility which
+comes from a belief in free will. That faith is in itself a divine
+doubt. I do not believe in any of the scientific predictions about
+mankind; I notice that they always fail to predict any of the purely
+human developments of men; I also notice that even their successes prove
+the same truth as their failures; for their successful predictions are
+not about men but about machines. But there are two things which a man
+may reasonably do, in stating the probabilities of a problem, which do
+not involve any claim to be a prophet. The first is to tell the truth,
+and especially the neglected truth, about the tendencies that have
+already accumulated in human history; any miscalculation about which
+must at least mislead us in any case. We cannot be certain of being
+right about the future; but we can be almost certain of being wrong
+about the future, if we are wrong about the past. The other thing that
+he can do is to note what ideas necessarily go together by their own
+nature; what ideas will triumph together or fall together. Hence it
+follows that this final chapter must consist of two things. The first is
+a summary of what has really happened to the idea of democracy in recent
+times; the second a suggestion of the fundamental doctrine which is
+necessary for its triumph at any time.
+
+The last hundred years has seen a general decline in the democratic
+idea. If there be anybody left to whom this historical truth appears a
+paradox, it is only because during that period nobody has been taught
+history, least of all the history of ideas. If a sort of intellectual
+inquisition had been established, for the definition and differentiation
+of heresies, it would have been found that the original republican
+orthodoxy had suffered more and more from secessions, schisms, and
+backslidings. The highest point of democratic idealism and conviction
+was towards the end of the eighteenth century, when the American
+Republic was 'dedicated to the proposition that all men are equal.' It
+was then that the largest number of men had the most serious sort of
+conviction that the political problem could be solved by the vote of
+peoples instead of the arbitrary power of princes and privileged orders.
+These men encountered various difficulties and made various compromises
+in relation to the practical politics of their time; in England they
+preserved aristocracy; in America they preserved slavery. But though
+they had more difficulties, they had less doubts. Since their time
+democracy has been steadily disintegrated by doubts; and these political
+doubts have been contemporary with and often identical with religious
+doubts. This fact could be followed over almost the whole field of the
+modern world; in this place it will be more appropriate to take the
+great American example of slavery. I have found traces in all sorts of
+intelligent quarters of an extraordinary idea that all the Fathers of
+the Republic owned black men like beasts of burden because they knew no
+better, until the light of liberty was revealed to them by John Brown
+and Mrs. Beecher Stowe. One of the best weekly papers in England said
+recently that even those who drew up the Declaration of Independence did
+not include negroes in its generalisation about humanity. This is quite
+consistent with the current convention, in which we were all brought up;
+the theory that the heart of humanity broadens in ever larger circles of
+brotherhood, till we pass from embracing a black man to adoring a black
+beetle. Unfortunately it is quite inconsistent with the facts of
+American history. The facts show that, in this problem of the Old South,
+the eighteenth century was _more_ liberal than the nineteenth century.
+There was _more_ sympathy for the negro in the school of Jefferson than
+in the school of Jefferson Davis. Jefferson, in the dark estate of his
+simple Deism, said the sight of slavery in his country made him tremble,
+remembering that God is just. His fellow Southerners, after a century of
+the world's advance, said that slavery in itself was good, when they did
+not go farther and say that negroes in themselves were bad. And they
+were supported in this by the great and growing modern suspicion that
+nature is unjust. Difficulties seemed inevitably to delay justice, to
+the mind of Jefferson; but so they did to the mind of Lincoln. But that
+the slave was human and the servitude inhuman--that was, if anything,
+clearer to Jefferson than to Lincoln. The fact is that the utter
+separation and subordination of the black like a beast was a _progress_;
+it was a growth of nineteenth-century enlightenment and experiment; a
+triumph of science over superstition. It was 'the way the world was
+going,' as Matthew Arnold reverentially remarked in some connection;
+perhaps as part of a definition of God. Anyhow, it was not Jefferson's
+definition of God. He fancied, in his far-off patriarchal way, a Father
+who had made all men brothers; and brutally unbrotherly as was the
+practice, such democratical Deists never dreamed of denying the theory.
+It was not until the scientific sophistries began that brotherhood was
+really disputed. Gobineau, who began most of the modern talk about the
+superiority and inferiority of racial stocks, was seized upon eagerly by
+the less generous of the slave-owners and trumpeted as a new truth of
+science and a new defence of slavery. It was not really until the dawn
+of Darwinism, when all our social relations began to smell of the
+monkey-house, that men thought of the barbarian as only a first and the
+baboon as a second cousin. The full servile philosophy has been a modern
+and even a recent thing; made in an age whose invisible deity was the
+Missing Link. The Missing Link was a true metaphor in more ways than
+one; and most of all in its suggestion of a chain.
+
+By a symbolic coincidence, indeed, slavery grew more brazen and brutal
+under the encouragement of more than one movement of the progressive
+sort. Its youth was renewed for it by the industrial prosperity of
+Lancashire; and under that influence it became a commercial and
+competitive instead of a patriarchal and customary thing. We may say
+with no exaggerative irony that the unconscious patrons of slavery were
+Huxley and Cobden. The machines of Manchester were manufacturing a great
+many more things than the manufacturers knew or wanted to know; but they
+were certainly manufacturing the fetters of the slave, doubtless out of
+the best quality of steel and iron. But this is a minor illustration of
+the modern tendency, as compared with the main stream of scepticism
+which was destroying democracy. Evolution became more and more a vision
+of the break-up of our brotherhood, till by the end of the nineteenth
+century the genius of its greatest scientific romancer saw it end in the
+anthropophagous antics of the Time Machine. So far from evolution
+lifting us above the idea of enslaving men, it was providing us at least
+with a logical and potential argument for eating them. In the case of
+the American negroes, it may be remarked, it does at any rate permit the
+preliminary course of roasting them. All this materialistic hardening,
+which replaced the remorse of Jefferson, was part of the growing
+evolutionary suspicion that savages were not a part of the human race,
+or rather that there was really no such thing as the human race. The
+South had begun by agreeing reluctantly to the enslavement of men. The
+South ended by agreeing equally reluctantly to the emancipation of
+monkeys.
+
+That is what had happened to the democratic ideal in a hundred years.
+Anybody can test it by comparing the final phase, I will not say with
+the ideal of Jefferson, but with the ideal of Johnson. There was far
+more horror of slavery in an eighteenth-century Tory like Dr. Johnson
+than in a nineteenth-century Democrat like Stephen Douglas. Stephen
+Douglas may be mentioned because he is a very representative type of the
+age of evolution and expansion; a man thinking in continents, like Cecil
+Rhodes, human and hopeful in a truly American fashion, and as a
+consequence cold and careless rather than hostile in the matter of the
+old mystical doctrines of equality. He 'did not care whether slavery was
+voted up or voted down.' His great opponent Lincoln did indeed care
+very much. But it was an intense individual conviction with Lincoln
+exactly as it was with Johnson. I doubt if the spirit of the age was not
+much more behind Douglas and his westward expansion of the white race. I
+am sure that more and more men were coming to be in the particular
+mental condition of Douglas; men in whom the old moral and mystical
+ideals had been undermined by doubt but only with a negative effect of
+indifference. Their positive convictions were all concerned with what
+some called progress and some imperialism. It is true that there was a
+sincere sectional enthusiasm against slavery in the North; and that the
+slaves were actually emancipated in the nineteenth century. But I doubt
+whether the Abolitionists would ever have secured Abolition. Abolition
+was a by-product of the Civil War; which was fought for quite other
+reasons. Anyhow, if slavery had somehow survived to the age of Rhodes
+and Roosevelt and evolutionary imperialism, I doubt if the slaves would
+ever have been emancipated at all. Certainly if it had survived till the
+modern movement for the Servile State, they would never have been
+emancipated at all. Why should the world take the chains off the black
+man when it was just putting them on the white? And in so far as we owe
+the change to Lincoln, we owe it to Jefferson. Exactly what gives its
+real dignity to the figure of Lincoln is that he stands invoking a
+primitive first principle of the age of innocence, and holding up the
+tables of an ancient law, _against_ the trend of the nineteenth century;
+repeating, 'We hold these truths to be self-evident; that all men are
+created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator, etc.,' to a
+generation that was more and more disposed to say something like this:
+'We hold these truths to be probable enough for pragmatists; that all
+things looking like men were evolved somehow, being endowed by heredity
+and environment with no equal rights, but very unequal wrongs,' and so
+on. I do not believe that creed, left to itself, would ever have founded
+a state; and I am pretty certain that, left to itself, it would never
+have overthrown a slave state. What it did do, as I have said, was to
+produce some very wonderful literary and artistic flights of sceptical
+imagination. The world did have new visions, if they were visions of
+monsters in the moon and Martians striding about like spiders as tall as
+the sky, and the workmen and capitalists becoming two separate species,
+so that one could devour the other as gaily and greedily as a cat
+devours a bird. No one has done justice to the meaning of Mr. Wells and
+his original departure in fantastic fiction; to these nightmares that
+were the last apocalypse of the nineteenth century. They meant that the
+bottom had fallen out of the mind at last, that the bridge of
+brotherhood had broken down in the modern brain, letting up from the
+chasms this infernal light like a dawn. All had grown dizzy with degree
+and relativity; so that there would not be so very much difference
+between eating dog and eating darkie, or between eating darkie and
+eating dago. There were different sorts of apes; but there was no doubt
+that we were the superior sort.
+
+Against all this irresistible force stood one immovable post. Against
+all this dance of doubt and degree stood something that can best be
+symbolised by a simple example. An ape cannot be a priest, but a negro
+can be a priest. The dogmatic type of Christianity, especially the
+Catholic type of Christianity, had riveted itself irrevocably to the
+manhood of all men. Where its faith was fixed by creeds and councils it
+could not save itself even by surrender. It could not gradually dilute
+democracy, as could a merely sceptical or secular democrat. There stood,
+in fact or in possibility, the solid and smiling figure of a black
+bishop. And he was either a man claiming the most towering spiritual
+privileges of a man, or he was the mere buffoonery and blasphemy of a
+monkey in a mitre. That is the point about Christian and Catholic
+democracy; it is not that it is necessarily at any moment more
+democratic, it is that its indestructible minimum of democracy really is
+indestructible. And by the nature of things that mystical democracy was
+destined to survive, when every other sort of democracy was free to
+destroy itself. And whenever democracy destroying itself is suddenly
+moved to save itself, it always grasps at rag or tag of that old
+tradition that alone is sure of itself. Hundreds have heard the story
+about the mediaeval demagogue who went about repeating the rhyme
+
+
+ When Adam delved and Eve span,
+ Who was then the gentleman?
+
+
+Many have doubtless offered the obvious answer to the question, 'The
+Serpent.' But few seem to have noticed what would be the more modern
+answer to the question, if that innocent agitator went about propounding
+it. 'Adam never delved and Eve never span, for the simple reason that
+they never existed. They are fragments of a Chaldeo-Babylonian mythos,
+and Adam is only a slight variation of Tag-Tug, pronounced Uttu. For the
+real beginning of humanity we refer you to Darwin's _Origin of
+Species_.' And then the modern man would go on to justify plutocracy to
+the mediaeval man by talking about the Struggle for Life and the
+Survival of the Fittest; and how the strongest man seized authority by
+means of anarchy, and proved himself a gentleman by behaving like a cad.
+Now I do not base my beliefs on the theology of John Ball, or on the
+literal and materialistic reading of the text of Genesis; though I think
+the story of Adam and Eve infinitely less absurd and unlikely than that
+of the prehistoric 'strongest man' who could fight a hundred men. But I
+do note the fact that the idealism of the leveller could be put in the
+form of an appeal to Scripture, and could not be put in the form of an
+appeal to Science. And I do note also that democrats were still driven
+to make the same appeal even in the very century of Science. Tennyson
+was, if ever there was one, an evolutionist in his vision and an
+aristocrat in his sympathies. He was always boasting that John Bull was
+evolutionary and not revolutionary, even as these Frenchmen. He did not
+pretend to have any creed beyond faintly trusting the larger hope. But
+when human dignity is really in danger, John Bull has to use the same
+old argument as John Ball. He tells Lady Clara Vere de Vere that 'the
+gardener Adam and his wife smile at the claim of long descent'; their
+own descent being by no means long. Lady Clara might surely have scored
+off him pretty smartly by quoting from 'Maud' and 'In Memoriam' about
+evolution and the eft that was lord of valley and hill. But Tennyson has
+evidently forgotten all about Darwin and the long descent of man. If
+this was true of an evolutionist like Tennyson, it was naturally ten
+times truer of a revolutionist like Jefferson. The Declaration of
+Independence dogmatically bases all rights on the fact that God created
+all men equal; and it is right; for if they were not created equal, they
+were certainly evolved unequal.
+
+There is no basis for democracy except in a dogma about the divine
+origin of man. That is a perfectly simple fact which the modern world
+will find out more and more to be a fact. Every other basis is a sort of
+sentimental confusion, full of merely verbal echoes of the older creeds.
+Those verbal associations are always vain for the vital purpose of
+constraining the tyrant. An idealist may say to a capitalist, 'Don't you
+sometimes feel in the rich twilight, when the lights twinkle from the
+distant hamlet in the hills, that all humanity is a holy family?' But it
+is equally possible for the capitalist to reply with brevity and
+decision, 'No, I don't,' and there is no more disputing about it further
+than about the beauty of a fading cloud. And the modern world of moods
+is a world of clouds, even if some of them are thunderclouds.
+
+For I have only taken here, as a convenient working model, the case of
+negro slavery; because it was long peculiar to America and is popularly
+associated with it. It is more and more obvious that the line is no
+longer running between black and white but between rich and poor. As I
+have already noted in the case of Prohibition, the very same arguments
+of the inevitable suicide of the ignorant, of the impossibility of
+freedom for the unfit, which were once applied to barbarians brought
+from Africa are now applied to citizens born in America. It is argued
+even by industrialists that industrialism has produced a class submerged
+below the status of emancipated mankind. They imply that the Missing
+Link is no longer missing, even from England or the Northern States, and
+that the factories have manufactured their own monkeys. Scientific
+hypotheses about the feeble-minded and the criminal type will supply the
+masters of the modern world with more and more excuses for denying the
+dogma of equality in the case of white labour as well as black. And any
+man who knows the world knows perfectly well that to tell the
+millionaires, or their servants, that they are disappointing the
+sentiments of Thomas Jefferson, or disregarding a creed composed in the
+eighteenth century, will be about as effective as telling them that they
+are not observing the creed of St. Athanasius or keeping the rule of St.
+Benedict.
+
+The world cannot keep its own ideals. The secular order cannot make
+secure any one of its own noble and natural conceptions of secular
+perfection. That will be found, as time goes on, the ultimate argument
+for a Church independent of the world and the secular order. What has
+become of all those ideal figures from the Wise Man of the Stoics to the
+democratic Deist of the eighteenth century? What has become of all that
+purely human hierarchy of chivalry, with its punctilious pattern of the
+good knight, its ardent ambition in the young squire? The very name of
+knight has come to represent the petty triumph of a profiteer, and the
+very word squire the petty tyranny of a landlord. What has become of all
+that golden liberality of the Humanists, who found on the high
+tablelands of the culture of Hellas the very balance of repose in beauty
+that is most lacking in the modern world? The very Greek language that
+they loved has become a mere label for snuffy and snobbish dons, and a
+mere cock-shy for cheap and half-educated utilitarians, who make it a
+symbol of superstition and reaction. We have lived to see a time when
+the heroic legend of the Republic and the Citizen, which seemed to
+Jefferson the eternal youth of the world, has begun to grow old in its
+turn. We cannot recover the earthly estate of knighthood, to which all
+the colours and complications of heraldry seemed as fresh and natural as
+flowers. We cannot re-enact the intellectual experiences of the
+Humanists, for whom the Greek grammar was like the song of a bird in
+spring. The more the matter is considered the clearer it will seem that
+these old experiences are now only alive, where they have found a
+lodgment in the Catholic tradition of Christendom, and made themselves
+friends for ever. St. Francis is the only surviving troubadour. St.
+Thomas More is the only surviving Humanist. St. Louis is the only
+surviving knight.
+
+It would be the worst sort of insincerity, therefore, to conclude even
+so hazy an outline of so great and majestic a matter as the American
+democratic experiment, without testifying my belief that to this also
+the same ultimate test will come. So far as that democracy becomes or
+remains Catholic and Christian, that democracy will remain democratic.
+In so far as it does not, it will become wildly and wickedly
+undemocratic. Its rich will riot with a brutal indifference far beyond
+the feeble feudalism which retains some shadow of responsibility or at
+least of patronage. Its wage-slaves will either sink into heathen
+slavery, or seek relief in theories that are destructive not merely in
+method but in aim; since they are but the negations of the human
+appetites of property and personality. Eighteenth-century ideals,
+formulated in eighteenth-century language, have no longer in themselves
+the power to hold all those pagan passions back. Even those documents
+depended upon Deism; their real strength will survive in men who are
+still Deists; and the men who are still Deists are more than Deists. Men
+will more and more realise that there is no meaning in democracy if
+there is no meaning in anything; and that there is no meaning in
+anything if the universe has not a centre of significance and an
+authority that is the author of our rights. There is truth in every
+ancient fable, and there is here even something of it in the fancy that
+finds the symbol of the Republic in the bird that bore the bolts of
+Jove. Owls and bats may wander where they will in darkness, and for them
+as for the sceptics the universe may have no centre; kites and vultures
+may linger as they like over carrion, and for them as for the plutocrats
+existence may have no origin and no end; but it was far back in the land
+of legends, where instincts find their true images, that the cry went
+forth that freedom is an eagle, whose glory is gazing at the sun.
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of What I Saw in America, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
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+Title: What I Saw in America
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: November 13, 2008 [EBook #27250]
+
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+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA ***
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+
+
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+</pre>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1><i>What I saw in America</i></h1>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/titlepage.jpg" width='426' height='700' alt="WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA BY G. K. CHESTERTON HODDER AND STOUGHTON LIMITED LONDON MCMXXII" /></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>Printed in Great Britain by T. and A. <span class="smcap">Constable Ltd.</span><br />at the Edinburgh
+University Press</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><i>Contents</i></h2>
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#What_is_America">WHAT IS AMERICA?</a></li>
+<li><a href="#A_Meditation_in_a_New_York_Hotel">A MEDITATION IN A NEW YORK HOTEL</a></li>
+<li><a href="#A_Meditation_in_Broadway">A MEDITATION IN BROADWAY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Irish_and_other_Interviewers">IRISH AND OTHER INTERVIEWERS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Some_American_Cities">SOME AMERICAN CITIES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#In_the_American_Country">IN THE AMERICAN COUNTRY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_American_Business_Man">THE AMERICAN BUSINESS MAN</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Presidents_and_Problems">PRESIDENTS AND PROBLEMS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Prohibition_in_Fact_and_Fancy">PROHIBITION IN FACT AND FANCY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Fads_and_Public_Opinion">FADS AND PUBLIC OPINION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Extraordinary_American">THE EXTRAORDINARY AMERICAN</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Republican_in_the_Ruins">THE REPUBLICAN IN THE RUINS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Is_the_Atlantic_Narrowing">IS THE ATLANTIC NARROWING?</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Lincoln_and_Lost_Causes">LINCOLN AND LOST CAUSES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Wells_and_the_World_State">WELLS AND THE WORLD STATE</a></li>
+<li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span><a href="#A_New_Martin_Chuzzlewit">A NEW MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Spirit_of_America">THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Spirit_of_England">THE SPIRIT OF ENGLAND</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Future_of_Democracy">THE FUTURE OF DEMOCRACY</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="What_is_America" id="What_is_America"></a><i>What is America?</i></h2>
+
+<p>I have never managed to lose my old conviction that travel narrows the
+mind. At least a man must make a double effort of moral humility and
+imaginative energy to prevent it from narrowing his mind. Indeed there
+is something touching and even tragic about the thought of the
+thoughtless tourist, who might have stayed at home loving Laplanders,
+embracing Chinamen, and clasping Patagonians to his heart in Hampstead
+or Surbiton, but for his blind and suicidal impulse to go and see what
+they looked like. This is not meant for nonsense; still less is it meant
+for the silliest sort of nonsense, which is cynicism. The human bond
+that he feels at home is not an illusion. On the contrary, it is rather
+an inner reality. Man is inside all men. In a real sense any man may be
+inside any men. But to travel is to leave the inside and draw
+dangerously near the outside. So long as he thought of men in the
+abstract, like naked toiling figures in some classic frieze, merely as
+those who labour and love their children and die, he was thinking the
+fundamental truth about them. By going to look at their unfamiliar
+manners and customs he is inviting them to disguise themselves in
+fantastic masks and costumes. Many modern internationalists talk as if
+men of different nationalities had only to meet and mix and understand
+each other. In reality that is the moment of supreme danger&mdash;the moment
+when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> they meet. We might shiver, as at the old euphemism by which a
+meeting meant a duel.</p>
+
+<p>Travel ought to combine amusement with instruction; but most travellers
+are so much amused that they refuse to be instructed. I do not blame
+them for being amused; it is perfectly natural to be amused at a
+Dutchman for being Dutch or a Chinaman for being Chinese. Where they are
+wrong is that they take their own amusement seriously. They base on it
+their serious ideas of international instruction. It was said that the
+Englishman takes his pleasures sadly; and the pleasure of despising
+foreigners is one which he takes most sadly of all. He comes to scoff
+and does not remain to pray, but rather to excommunicate. Hence in
+international relations there is far too little laughing, and far too
+much sneering. But I believe that there is a better way which largely
+consists of laughter; a form of friendship between nations which is
+actually founded on differences. To hint at some such better way is the
+only excuse of this book.</p>
+
+<p>Let me begin my American impressions with two impressions I had before I
+went to America. One was an incident and the other an idea; and when
+taken together they illustrate the attitude I mean. The first principle
+is that nobody should be ashamed of thinking a thing funny because it is
+foreign; the second is that he should be ashamed of thinking it wrong
+because it is funny. The reaction of his senses and superficial habits
+of mind against something new, and to him abnormal, is a perfectly
+healthy reaction. But the mind which imagines that mere unfamiliarity
+can possibly prove anything about inferiority is a very inadequate mind.
+It is inadequate even in criticising things that may really be inferior
+to the things involved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> here. It is far better to laugh at a negro for
+having a black face than to sneer at him for having a sloping skull. It
+is proportionally even more preferable to laugh rather than judge in
+dealing with highly civilised peoples. Therefore I put at the beginning
+two working examples of what I felt about America before I saw it; the
+sort of thing that a man has a right to enjoy as a joke, and the sort of
+thing he has a duty to understand and respect, because it is the
+explanation of the joke.</p>
+
+<p>When I went to the American consulate to regularise my passports, I was
+capable of expecting the American consulate to be American. Embassies
+and consulates are by tradition like islands of the soil for which they
+stand; and I have often found the tradition corresponding to a truth. I
+have seen the unmistakable French official living on omelettes and a
+little wine and serving his sacred abstractions under the last
+palm-trees fringing a desert. In the heat and noise of quarrelling Turks
+and Egyptians, I have come suddenly, as with the cool shock of his own
+shower-bath, on the listless amiability of the English gentleman. The
+officials I interviewed were very American, especially in being very
+polite; for whatever may have been the mood or meaning of Martin
+Chuzzlewit, I have always found Americans by far the politest people in
+the world. They put in my hands a form to be filled up, to all
+appearance like other forms I had filled up in other passport offices.
+But in reality it was very different from any form I had ever filled up
+in my life. At least it was a little like a freer form of the game
+called 'Confessions' which my friends and I invented in our youth; an
+examination paper containing questions like, 'If you saw a rhinoceros<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+in the front garden, what would you do?' One of my friends, I remember,
+wrote, 'Take the pledge.' But that is another story, and might bring Mr.
+Pussyfoot Johnson on the scene before his time.</p>
+
+<p>One of the questions on the paper was, 'Are you an anarchist?' To which
+a detached philosopher would naturally feel inclined to answer, 'What
+the devil has that to do with you? Are you an atheist?' along with some
+playful efforts to cross-examine the official about what constitutes an
+&#7937;&#961;&#967;&#951; [Greek: arch&ecirc;]. Then there was the question, 'Are you in favour of
+subverting the government of the United States by force?' Against this I
+should write, 'I prefer to answer that question at the end of my tour
+and not the beginning.' The inquisitor, in his more than morbid
+curiosity, had then written down, 'Are you a polygamist?' The answer to
+this is, 'No such luck' or 'Not such a fool,' according to our
+experience of the other sex. But perhaps a better answer would be that
+given to W. T. Stead when he circulated the rhetorical question, 'Shall
+I slay my brother Boer?'&mdash;the answer that ran, 'Never interfere in
+family matters.' But among many things that amused me almost to the
+point of treating the form thus disrespectfully, the most amusing was
+the thought of the ruthless outlaw who should feel compelled to treat it
+respectfully. I like to think of the foreign desperado, seeking to slip
+into America with official papers under official protection, and sitting
+down to write with a beautiful gravity, 'I am an anarchist. I hate you
+all and wish to destroy you.' Or, 'I intend to subvert by force the
+government of the United States as soon as possible, sticking the long
+sheath-knife in my left trouser-pocket into Mr. Harding at the earliest
+opportunity.' Or again, 'Yes, I am a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> polygamist all right, and my
+forty-seven wives are accompanying me on the voyage disguised as
+secretaries.' There seems to be a certain simplicity of mind about these
+answers; and it is reassuring to know that anarchists and polygamists
+are so pure and good that the police have only to ask them questions and
+they are certain to tell no lies.</p>
+
+<p>Now that is a model of the sort of foreign practice, founded on foreign
+problems, at which a man's first impulse is naturally to laugh. Nor have
+I any intention of apologising for my laughter. A man is perfectly
+entitled to laugh at a thing because he happens to find it
+incomprehensible. What he has no right to do is to laugh at it as
+incomprehensible, and then criticise it as if he comprehended it. The
+very fact of its unfamiliarity and mystery ought to set him thinking
+about the deeper causes that make people so different from himself, and
+that without merely assuming that they must be inferior to himself.</p>
+
+<p>Superficially this is rather a queer business. It would be easy enough
+to suggest that in this America has introduced a quite abnormal spirit
+of inquisition; an interference with liberty unknown among all the
+ancient despotisms and aristocracies. About that there will be something
+to be said later; but superficially it is true that this degree of
+officialism is comparatively unique. In a journey which I took only the
+year before I had occasion to have my papers passed by governments which
+many worthy people in the West would vaguely identify with corsairs and
+assassins; I have stood on the other side of Jordan, in the land ruled
+by a rude Arab chief, where the police looked so like brigands that one
+wondered what the brigands looked like. But they did not ask me whether<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>
+I had come to subvert the power of the Shereef; and they did not exhibit
+the faintest curiosity about my personal views on the ethical basis of
+civil authority. These ministers of ancient Moslem despotism did not
+care about whether I was an anarchist; and naturally would not have
+minded if I had been a polygamist. The Arab chief was probably a
+polygamist himself. These slaves of Asiatic autocracy were content, in
+the old liberal fashion, to judge me by my actions; they did not inquire
+into my thoughts. They held their power as limited to the limitation of
+practice; they did not forbid me to hold a theory. It would be easy to
+argue here that Western democracy persecutes where even Eastern
+despotism tolerates or emancipates. It would be easy to develop the
+fancy that, as compared with the sultans of Turkey or Egypt, the
+American Constitution is a thing like the Spanish Inquisition.</p>
+
+<p>Only the traveller who stops at that point is totally wrong; and the
+traveller only too often does stop at that point. He has found something
+to make him laugh, and he will not suffer it to make him think. And the
+remedy is not to unsay what he has said, not even, so to speak, to
+unlaugh what he has laughed, not to deny that there is something unique
+and curious about this American inquisition into our abstract opinions,
+but rather to continue the train of thought, and follow the admirable
+advice of Mr. H. G. Wells, who said, 'It is not much good thinking of a
+thing unless you think it out.' It is not to deny that American
+officialism is rather peculiar on this point, but to inquire what it
+really is which makes America peculiar, or which is peculiar to America.
+In short, it is to get some ultimate idea of what America <i>is</i>;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> and the
+answer to that question will reveal something much deeper and grander
+and more worthy of our intelligent interest.</p>
+
+<p>It may have seemed something less than a compliment to compare the
+American Constitution to the Spanish Inquisition. But oddly enough, it
+does involve a truth; and still more oddly perhaps, it does involve a
+compliment. The American Constitution does resemble the Spanish
+Inquisition in this: that it is founded on a creed. America is the only
+nation in the world that is founded on a creed. That creed is set forth
+with dogmatic and even theological lucidity in the Declaration of
+Independence; perhaps the only piece of practical politics that is also
+theoretical politics and also great literature. It enunciates that all
+men are equal in their claim to justice, that governments exist to give
+them that justice, and that their authority is for that reason just. It
+certainly does condemn anarchism, and it does also by inference condemn
+atheism, since it clearly names the Creator as the ultimate authority
+from whom these equal rights are derived. Nobody expects a modern
+political system to proceed logically in the application of such dogmas,
+and in the matter of God and Government it is naturally God whose claim
+is taken more lightly. The point is that there is a creed, if not about
+divine, at least about human things.</p>
+
+<p>Now a creed is at once the broadest and the narrowest thing in the
+world. In its nature it is as broad as its scheme for a brotherhood of
+all men. In its nature it is limited by its definition of the nature of
+all men. This was true of the Christian Church, which was truly said to
+exclude neither Jew nor Greek, but which did definitely substitute
+something else for Jewish religion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> or Greek philosophy. It was truly
+said to be a net drawing in of all kinds; but a net of a certain
+pattern, the pattern of Peter the Fisherman. And this is true even of
+the most disastrous distortions or degradations of that creed; and true
+among others of the Spanish Inquisition. It may have been narrow
+touching theology, it could not confess to being narrow about
+nationality or ethnology. The Spanish Inquisition might be admittedly
+Inquisitorial; but the Spanish Inquisition could not be merely Spanish.
+Such a Spaniard, even when he was narrower than his own creed, had to be
+broader than his own empire. He might burn a philosopher because he was
+heterodox; but he must accept a barbarian because he was orthodox. And
+we see, even in modern times, that the same Church which is blamed for
+making sages heretics is also blamed for making savages priests. Now in
+a much vaguer and more evolutionary fashion, there is something of the
+same idea at the back of the great American experiment; the experiment
+of a democracy of diverse races which has been compared to a
+melting-pot. But even that metaphor implies that the pot itself is of a
+certain shape and a certain substance; a pretty solid substance. The
+melting-pot must not melt. The original shape was traced on the lines of
+Jeffersonian democracy; and it will remain in that shape until it
+becomes shapeless. America invites all men to become citizens; but it
+implies the dogma that there is such a thing as citizenship. Only, so
+far as its primary ideal is concerned, its exclusiveness is religious
+because it is not racial. The missionary can condemn a cannibal,
+precisely because he cannot condemn a Sandwich Islander. And in
+something of the same spirit the American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> may exclude a polygamist,
+precisely because he cannot exclude a Turk.</p>
+
+<p>Now for America this is no idle theory. It may have been theoretical,
+though it was thoroughly sincere, when that great Virginian gentleman
+declared it in surroundings that still had something of the character of
+an English countryside. It is not merely theoretical now. There is
+nothing to prevent America being literally invaded by Turks, as she is
+invaded by Jews or Bulgars. In the most exquisitely inconsequent of the
+<i>Bab Ballads</i>, we are told concerning Pasha Bailey Ben:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>One morning knocked at half-past eight</div>
+<div>A tall Red Indian at his gate.</div>
+<div>In Turkey, as you 'r' p'raps aware,</div>
+<div>Red Indians are extremely rare.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But the converse need by no means be true. There is nothing in the
+nature of things to prevent an emigration of Turks increasing and
+multiplying on the plains where the Red Indians wandered; there is
+nothing to necessitate the Turks being extremely rare. The Red Indians,
+alas, are likely to be rarer. And as I much prefer Red Indians to Turks,
+not to mention Jews, I speak without prejudice; but the point here is
+that America, partly by original theory and partly by historical
+accident, does lie open to racial admixtures which most countries would
+think incongruous or comic. That is why it is only fair to read any
+American definitions or rules in a certain light, and relatively to a
+rather unique position. It is not fair to compare the position of those
+who may meet Turks in the back street with that of those who have never
+met Turks except in the <i>Bab Ballads</i>. It is not fair simply to compare
+America with England in its regulations about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> the Turk. In short, it is
+not fair to do what almost every Englishman probably does; to look at
+the American international examination paper, and laugh and be satisfied
+with saying, 'We don't have any of that nonsense in England.'</p>
+
+<p>We do not have any of that nonsense in England because we have never
+attempted to have any of that philosophy in England. And, above all,
+because we have the enormous advantage of feeling it natural to be
+national, because there is nothing else to be. England in these days is
+not well governed; England is not well educated; England suffers from
+wealth and poverty that are not well distributed. But England is
+English; <i>esto perpetua</i>. England is English as France is French or
+Ireland Irish; the great mass of men taking certain national traditions
+for granted. Now this gives us a totally different and a very much
+easier task. We have not got an inquisition, because we have not got a
+creed; but it is arguable that we do not need a creed, because we have
+got a character. In any of the old nations the national unity is
+preserved by the national type. Because we have a type we do not need to
+have a test.</p>
+
+<p>Take that innocent question, 'Are you an anarchist?' which is
+intrinsically quite as impudent as 'Are you an optimist?' or 'Are you a
+philanthropist?' I am not discussing here whether these things are
+right, but whether most of us are in a position to know them rightly.
+Now it is quite true that most Englishmen do not find it necessary to go
+about all day asking each other whether they are anarchists. It is quite
+true that the phrase occurs on no British forms that I have seen. But
+this is not only because most of the Englishmen are not anarchists. It
+is even more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> because even the anarchists are Englishmen. For instance,
+it would be easy to make fun of the American formula by noting that the
+cap would fit all sorts of bald academic heads. It might well be
+maintained that Herbert Spencer was an anarchist. It is practically
+certain that Auberon Herbert was an anarchist. But Herbert Spencer was
+an extraordinarily typical Englishman of the Nonconformist middle class.
+And Auberon Herbert was an extraordinarily typical English aristocrat of
+the old and genuine aristocracy. Every one knew in his heart that the
+squire would not throw a bomb at the Queen, and the Nonconformist would
+not throw a bomb at anybody. Every one knew that there was something
+subconscious in a man like Auberon Herbert, which would have come out
+only in throwing bombs at the enemies of England; as it did come out in
+his son and namesake, the generous and unforgotten, who fell flinging
+bombs from the sky far beyond the German line. Every one knows that
+normally, in the last resort, the English gentleman is patriotic. Every
+one knows that the English Nonconformist is national even when he denies
+that he is patriotic. Nothing is more notable indeed than the fact that
+nobody is more stamped with the mark of his own nation than the man who
+says that there ought to be no nations. Somebody called Cobden the
+International Man; but no man could be more English than Cobden.
+Everybody recognises Tolstoy as the iconoclast of all patriotism; but
+nobody could be more Russian than Tolstoy. In the old countries where
+there are these national types, the types may be allowed to hold any
+theories. Even if they hold certain theories, they are unlikely to do
+certain things. So the conscientious objector, in the English sense,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+may be and is one of the peculiar by-products of England. But the
+conscientious objector will probably have a conscientious objection to
+throwing bombs.</p>
+
+<p>Now I am very far from intending to imply that these American tests are
+good tests, or that there is no danger of tyranny becoming the
+temptation of America. I shall have something to say later on about that
+temptation or tendency. Nor do I say that they apply consistently this
+conception of a nation with the soul of a church, protected by religious
+and not racial selection. If they did apply that principle consistently,
+they would have to exclude pessimists and rich cynics who deny the
+democratic ideal; an excellent thing but a rather improbable one. What I
+say is that when we realise that this principle exists at all, we see
+the whole position in a totally different perspective. We say that the
+Americans are doing something heroic, or doing something insane, or
+doing it in an unworkable or unworthy fashion, instead of simply
+wondering what the devil they are doing.</p>
+
+<p>When we realise the democratic design of such a cosmopolitan
+commonwealth, and compare it with our insular reliance or instincts, we
+see at once why such a thing has to be not only democratic but dogmatic.
+We see why in some points it tends to be inquisitive or intolerant. Any
+one can see the practical point by merely transferring into private life
+a problem like that of the two academic anarchists, who might by a
+coincidence be called the two Herberts. Suppose a man said, 'Buffle, my
+old Oxford tutor, wants to meet you; I wish you'd ask him down for a day
+or two. He has the oddest opinions, but he's very stimulating.' It would
+not occur to us that the oddity of the Oxford<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> don's opinions would lead
+him to blow up the house; because the Oxford don is an English type.
+Suppose somebody said, 'Do let me bring old Colonel Robinson down for
+the week-end; he's a bit of a crank but quite interesting.' We should
+not anticipate the colonel running amuck with a carving-knife and
+offering up human sacrifice in the garden; for these are not among the
+daily habits of an old English colonel; and because we know his habits,
+we do not care about his opinions. But suppose somebody offered to bring
+a person from the interior of Kamskatka to stay with us for a week or
+two, and added that his religion was a very extraordinary religion, we
+should feel a little more inquisitive about what kind of religion it
+was. If somebody wished to add a Hairy Ainu to the family party at
+Christmas, explaining that his point of view was so individual and
+interesting, we should want to know a little more about it and him. We
+should be tempted to draw up as fantastic an examination paper as that
+presented to the emigrant going to America. We should ask what a Hairy
+Ainu was, and how hairy he was, and above all what sort of Ainu he was.
+Would etiquette require us to ask him to bring his wife? And if we did
+ask him to bring his wife, how many wives would he bring? In short, as
+in the American formula, is he a polygamist? Merely as a point of
+housekeeping and accommodation the question is not irrelevant. Is the
+Hairy Ainu content with hair, or does he wear any clothes? If the police
+insist on his wearing clothes, will he recognise the authority of the
+police? In short, as in the American formula, is he an anarchist?</p>
+
+<p>Of course this generalisation about America, like other historical
+things, is subject to all sorts of cross<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> divisions and exceptions, to
+be considered in their place. The negroes are a special problem, because
+of what white men in the past did to them. The Japanese are a special
+problem, because of what men fear that they in the future may do to
+white men. The Jews are a special problem, because of what they and the
+Gentiles, in the past, present, and future, seem to have the habit of
+doing to each other. But the point is not that nothing exists in America
+except this idea; it is that nothing like this idea exists anywhere
+except in America. This idea is not internationalism; on the contrary it
+is decidedly nationalism. The Americans are very patriotic, and wish to
+make their new citizens patriotic Americans. But it is the idea of
+making a new nation literally out of any old nation that comes along. In
+a word, what is unique is not America but what is called
+Americanisation. We understand nothing till we understand the amazing
+ambition to Americanise the Kamskatkan and the Hairy Ainu. We are not
+trying to Anglicise thousands of French cooks or Italian organ-grinders.
+France is not trying to Gallicise thousands of English trippers or
+German prisoners of war. America is the one place in the world where
+this process, healthy or unhealthy, possible or impossible, is going on.
+And the process, as I have pointed out, is <i>not</i> internationalisation.
+It would be truer to say it is the nationalisation of the
+internationalised. It is making a home out of vagabonds and a nation out
+of exiles. This is what at once illuminates and softens the moral
+regulations which we may really think faddist or fanatical. They are
+abnormal; but in one sense this experiment of a home for the homeless is
+abnormal. In short, it has long been recognised that America was an
+asylum. It is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> only since Prohibition that it has looked a little like a
+lunatic asylum.</p>
+
+<p>It was before sailing for America, as I have said, that I stood with the
+official paper in my hand and these thoughts in my head. It was while I
+stood on English soil that I passed through the two stages of smiling
+and then sympathising; of realising that my momentary amusement, at
+being asked if I were not an Anarchist, was partly due to the fact that
+I was not an American. And in truth I think there are some things a man
+ought to know about America before he sees it. What we know of a country
+beforehand may not affect what we see that it is; but it will vitally
+affect what we appreciate it for being, because it will vitally affect
+what we expect it to be. I can honestly say that I had never expected
+America to be what nine-tenths of the newspaper critics invariably
+assume it to be. I never thought it was a sort of Anglo-Saxon colony,
+knowing that it was more and more thronged with crowds of very different
+colonists. During the war I felt that the very worst propaganda for the
+Allies was the propaganda for the Anglo-Saxons. I tried to point out
+that in one way America is nearer to Europe than England is. If she is
+not nearer to Bulgaria, she is nearer to Bulgars; if she is not nearer
+to Bohemia, she is nearer to Bohemians. In my New York hotel the head
+waiter in the dining-room was a Bohemian; the head waiter in the
+grill-room was a Bulgar. Americans have nationalities at the end of the
+street which for us are at the ends of the earth. I did my best to
+persuade my countrymen not to appeal to the American as if he were a
+rather dowdy Englishman, who had been rusticating in the provinces and
+had not heard the latest news about the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> town. I shall record later some
+of those arresting realities which the traveller does not expect; and
+which, in some cases I fear, he actually does not see because he does
+not expect. I shall try to do justice to the psychology of what Mr.
+Belloc has called 'Eye-Openers in Travel.' But there are some things
+about America that a man ought to see even with his eyes shut. One is
+that a state that came into existence solely through its repudiation and
+abhorrence of the British Crown is not likely to be a respectful copy of
+the British Constitution. Another is that the chief mark of the
+Declaration of Independence is something that is not only absent from
+the British Constitution, but something which all our constitutionalists
+have invariably thanked God, with the jolliest boasting and bragging,
+that they had kept out of the British Constitution. It is the thing
+called abstraction or academic logic. It is the thing which such jolly
+people call theory; and which those who can practise it call thought.
+And the theory or thought is the very last to which English people are
+accustomed, either by their social structure or their traditional
+teaching. It is the theory of equality. It is the pure classic
+conception that no man must aspire to be anything more than a citizen,
+and that no man should endure to be anything less. It is by no means
+especially intelligible to an Englishman, who tends at his best to the
+virtues of the gentleman and at his worst to the vices of the snob. The
+idealism of England, or if you will the romance of England, has not been
+primarily the romance of the citizen. But the idealism of America, we
+may safely say, still revolves entirely round the citizen and his
+romance. The realities are quite another matter, and we shall consider
+in its place the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> question of whether the ideal will be able to shape
+the realities or will merely be beaten shapeless by them. The ideal is
+besieged by inequalities of the most towering and insane description in
+the industrial and economic field. It may be devoured by modern
+capitalism, perhaps the worst inequality that ever existed among men. Of
+all that we shall speak later. But citizenship is still the American
+ideal; there is an army of actualities opposed to that ideal; but there
+is no ideal opposed to that ideal. American plutocracy has never got
+itself respected like English aristocracy. Citizenship is the American
+ideal; and it has never been the English ideal. But it is surely an
+ideal that may stir some imaginative generosity and respect in an
+Englishman, if he will condescend to be also a man. In this vision of
+moulding many peoples into the visible image of the citizen, he may see
+a spiritual adventure which he can admire from the outside, at least as
+much as he admires the valour of the Moslems and much more than he
+admires the virtues of the Middle Ages. He need not set himself to
+develop equality, but he need not set himself to misunderstand it. He
+may at least understand what Jefferson and Lincoln meant, and he may
+possibly find some assistance in this task by reading what they said. He
+may realise that equality is not some crude fairy tale about all men
+being equally tall or equally tricky; which we not only cannot believe
+but cannot believe in anybody believing. It is an absolute of morals by
+which all men have a value invariable and indestructible and a dignity
+as intangible as death. He may at least be a philosopher and see that
+equality is an idea; and not merely one of these soft-headed sceptics
+who, having risen by low tricks to high places, drink bad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> champagne in
+tawdry hotel lounges, and tell each other twenty times over, with
+unwearied iteration, that equality is an illusion.</p>
+
+<p>In truth it is inequality that is the illusion. The extreme
+disproportion between men, that we seem to see in life, is a thing of
+changing lights and lengthening shadows, a twilight full of fancies and
+distortions. We find a man famous and cannot live long enough to find
+him forgotten; we see a race dominant and cannot linger to see it decay.
+It is the experience of men that always returns to the equality of men;
+it is the average that ultimately justifies the average man. It is when
+men have seen and suffered much and come at the end of more elaborate
+experiments, that they see men as men under an equal light of death and
+daily laughter; and none the less mysterious for being many. Nor is it
+in vain that these Western democrats have sought the blazonry of their
+flag in that great multitude of immortal lights that endure behind the
+fires we see, and gathered them into the corner of Old Glory whose
+ground is like the glittering night. For veritably, in the spirit as
+well as in the symbol, suns and moons and meteors pass and fill our
+skies with a fleeting and almost theatrical conflagration; and wherever
+the old shadow stoops upon the earth, the stars return.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="A_Meditation_in_a_New_York_Hotel" id="A_Meditation_in_a_New_York_Hotel"></a><i>A Meditation in a New York Hotel</i></h2>
+
+<p>All this must begin with an apology and not an apologia. When I went
+wandering about the States disguised as a lecturer, I was well aware
+that I was not sufficiently well disguised to be a spy. I was even in
+the worst possible position to be a sight-seer. A lecturer to American
+audiences can hardly be in the holiday mood of a sight-seer. It is
+rather the audience that is sight-seeing; even if it is seeing a rather
+melancholy sight. Some say that people come to see the lecturer and not
+to hear him; in which case it seems rather a pity that he should disturb
+and distress their minds with a lecture. He might merely display himself
+on a stand or platform for a stipulated sum; or be exhibited like a
+monster in a menagerie. The circus elephant is not expected to make a
+speech. But it is equally true that the circus elephant is not allowed
+to write a book. His impressions of travel would be somewhat sketchy and
+perhaps a little over-specialised. In merely travelling from circus to
+circus he would, so to speak, move in rather narrow circles. Jumbo the
+great elephant (with whom I am hardly so ambitious as to compare
+myself), before he eventually went to the Barnum show, passed a
+considerable and I trust happy part of his life in Regent's Park. But if
+he had written a book on England, founded on his impressions of the Zoo,
+it might have been a little disproportionate and even misleading in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> its
+version of the flora and fauna of that country. He might imagine that
+lions and leopards were commoner than they are in our hedgerows and
+country lanes, or that the head and neck of a giraffe was as native to
+our landscapes as a village spire. And that is why I apologise in
+anticipation for a probable lack of proportion in this work. Like the
+elephant, I may have seen too much of a special enclosure where a
+special sort of lions are gathered together. I may exaggerate the
+territorial, as distinct from the vertical space occupied by the
+spiritual giraffe; for the giraffe may surely be regarded as an example
+of Uplift, and is even, in a manner of speaking, a high-brow. Above all,
+I shall probably make generalisations that are much too general; and are
+insufficient through being exaggerative. To this sort of doubt all my
+impressions are subject; and among them the negative generalisation with
+which I shall begin this rambling meditation on American hotels.</p>
+
+<p>In all my American wanderings I never saw such a thing as an inn. They
+may exist; but they do not arrest the traveller upon every road as they
+do in England and in Europe. The saloons no longer existed when I was
+there, owing to the recent reform which restricted intoxicants to the
+wealthier classes. But we feel that the saloons have been there; if one
+may so express it, their absence is still present. They remain in the
+structure of the street and the idiom of the language. But the saloons
+were not inns. If they had been inns, it would have been far harder even
+for the power of modern plutocracy to root them out. There will be a
+very different chase when the White Hart is hunted to the forests or
+when the Red Lion turns to bay. But people could not feel about the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+American saloon as they will feel about the English inns. They could not
+feel that the Prohibitionist, that vulgar chucker-out, was chucking
+Chaucer out of the Tabard and Shakespeare out of the Mermaid. In justice
+to the American Prohibitionists it must be realised that they were not
+doing quite such desecration; and that many of them felt the saloon a
+specially poisonous sort of place. They did feel that drinking-places
+were used only as drug-shops. So they have effected the great
+reconstruction, by which it will be necessary to use only drug-shops as
+drinking-places. But I am not dealing here with the problem of
+Prohibition except in so far as it is involved in the statement that the
+saloons were in no sense inns. Secondly, of course, there are the
+hotels. There are indeed. There are hotels toppling to the stars, hotels
+covering the acreage of villages, hotels in multitudinous number like a
+mob of Babylonian or Assyrian monuments; but the hotels also are not
+inns.</p>
+
+<p>Broadly speaking, there is only one hotel in America. The pattern of it,
+which is a very rational pattern, is repeated in cities as remote from
+each other as the capitals of European empires. You may find that hotel
+rising among the red blooms of the warm spring woods of Nebraska, or
+whitened with Canadian snows near the eternal noise of Niagara. And
+before touching on this solid and simple pattern itself, I may remark
+that the same system of symmetry runs through all the details of the
+interior. As one hotel is like another hotel, so one hotel floor is like
+another hotel floor. If the passage outside your bedroom door, or
+hallway as it is called, contains, let us say, a small table with a
+green vase and a stuffed flamingo, or some trifle of the sort, you may
+be perfectly certain that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> there is exactly the same table, vase, and
+flamingo on every one of the thirty-two landings of that towering
+habitation. This is where it differs most perhaps from the crooked
+landings and unexpected levels of the old English inns, even when they
+call themselves hotels. To me there was something weird, like a magic
+multiplication, in the exquisite sameness of these suites. It seemed to
+suggest the still atmosphere of some eerie psychological story. I once
+myself entertained the notion of a story, in which a man was to be
+prevented from entering his house (the scene of some crime or calamity)
+by people who painted and furnished the next house to look exactly like
+it; the assimilation going to the most fantastic lengths, such as
+altering the numbering of houses in the street. I came to America and
+found an hotel fitted and upholstered throughout for the enactment of my
+phantasmal fraud. I offer the skeleton of my story with all humility to
+some of the admirable lady writers of detective stories in America, to
+Miss Carolyn Wells, or Miss Mary Roberts Rhinehart, or Mrs. A. K. Green
+of the unforgotten Leavenworth Case. Surely it might be possible for the
+unsophisticated Nimrod K. Moose, of Yellow Dog Flat, to come to New York
+and be entangled somehow in this net of repetitions or recurrences.
+Surely something tells me that his beautiful daughter, the Rose of Red
+Murder Gulch, might seek for him in vain amid the apparently
+unmistakable surroundings of the thirty-second floor, while he was being
+quietly butchered by the floor-clerk on the thirty-third floor, an agent
+of the Green Claw (that formidable organisation); and all because the
+two floors looked exactly alike to the virginal Western eye. The
+original point of my own story was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> that the man to be entrapped walked
+into his own house after all, in spite of it being differently painted
+and numbered, simply because he was absent-minded and used to taking a
+certain number of mechanical steps. This would not work in the hotel;
+because a lift has no habits. It is typical of the real tameness of
+machinery, that even when we talk of a man turning mechanically we only
+talk metaphorically; for it is something that a mechanism cannot do. But
+I think there is only one real objection to my story of Mr. Moose in the
+New York hotel. And that is unfortunately a rather fatal one. It is that
+far away in the remote desolation of Yellow Dog, among those outlying
+and outlandish rocks that almost seem to rise beyond the sunset, there
+is undoubtedly an hotel of exactly the same sort, with all its floors
+exactly the same.</p>
+
+<p>Anyhow the general plan of the American hotel is commonly the same, and,
+as I have said, it is a very sound one so far as it goes. When I first
+went into one of the big New York hotels, the first impression was
+certainly its bigness. It was called the Biltmore; and I wondered how
+many national humorists had made the obvious comment of wishing they had
+built less. But it was not merely the Babylonian size and scale of such
+things, it was the way in which they are used. They are used almost as
+public streets, or rather as public squares. My first impression was
+that I was in some sort of high street or market-place during a carnival
+or a revolution. True, the people looked rather rich for a revolution
+and rather grave for a carnival; but they were congested in great crowds
+that moved slowly like people passing through an overcrowded railway
+station. Even in the dizzy heights of such a sky-scraper there could not
+possibly be room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> for all those people to sleep in the hotel, or even to
+dine in it. And, as a matter of fact, they did nothing whatever except
+drift into it and drift out again. Most of them had no more to do with
+the hotel than I have with Buckingham Palace. I have never been in
+Buckingham Palace, and I have very seldom, thank God, been in the big
+hotels of this type that exist in London or Paris. But I cannot believe
+that mobs are perpetually pouring through the Hotel Cecil or the Savoy
+in this fashion, calmly coming in at one door and going out of the
+other. But this fact is part of the fundamental structure of the
+American hotel; it is built upon a compromise that makes it possible.
+The whole of the lower floor is thrown open to the public streets and
+treated as a public square. But above it and all round it runs another
+floor in the form of a sort of deep gallery, furnished more luxuriously
+and looking down on the moving mobs beneath. No one is allowed on this
+floor except the guests or clients of the hotel. As I have been one of
+them myself, I trust it is not unsympathetic to compare them to active
+anthropoids who can climb trees, and so look down in safety on the herds
+or packs of wilder animals wandering and prowling below. Of course there
+are modifications of this architectural plan, but they are generally
+approximations to it; it is the plan that seems to suit the social life
+of the American cities. There is generally something like a ground floor
+that is more public, a half-floor or gallery above that is more private,
+and above that the bulk of the block of bedrooms, the huge hive with its
+innumerable and identical cells.</p>
+
+<p>The ladder of ascent in this tower is of course the lift, or, as it is
+called, the elevator. With all that we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> hear of American hustle and
+hurry it is rather strange that Americans seem to like more than we do
+to linger upon long words. And indeed there is an element of delay in
+their diction and spirit, very little understood, which I may discuss
+elsewhere. Anyhow they say elevator when we say lift, just as they say
+automobile when we say motor and stenographer when we say typist, or
+sometimes (by a slight confusion) typewriter. Which reminds me of
+another story that never existed, about a man who was accused of having
+murdered and dismembered his secretary when he had only taken his typing
+machine to pieces; but we must not dwell on these digressions. The
+Americans may have another reason for giving long and ceremonious titles
+to the lift. When first I came among them I had a suspicion that they
+possessed and practised a new and secret religion, which was the cult of
+the elevator. I fancied they worshipped the lift, or at any rate
+worshipped in the lift. The details or data of this suspicion it were
+now vain to collect, as I have regretfully abandoned it, except in so
+far as they illustrate the social principles underlying the structural
+plan of the building. Now an American gentleman invariably takes off his
+hat in the lift. He does not take off his hat in the hotel, even if it
+is crowded with ladies. But he always so salutes a lady in the elevator;
+and this marks the difference of atmosphere. The lift is a room, but the
+hotel is a street. But during my first delusion, of course, I assumed
+that he uncovered in this tiny temple merely because he was in church.
+There is something about the very word elevator that expresses a great
+deal of his vague but idealistic religion. Perhaps that flying chapel
+will eventually be ritualistically decorated like a chapel;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> possibly
+with a symbolic scheme of wings. Perhaps a brief religious service will
+be held in the elevator as it ascends; in a few well-chosen words
+touching the Utmost for the Highest. Possibly he would consent even to
+call the elevator a lift, if he could call it an uplift. There would be
+no difficulty, except what I cannot but regard as the chief moral
+problem of all optimistic modernism. I mean the difficulty of imagining
+a lift which is free to go up, if it is not also free to go down.</p>
+
+<p>I think I know my American friends and acquaintances too well to
+apologise for any levity in these illustrations. Americans make fun of
+their own institutions; and their own journalism is full of such
+fanciful conjectures. The tall building is itself artistically akin to
+the tall story. The very word sky-scraper is an admirable example of an
+American lie. But I can testify quite as eagerly to the solid and
+sensible advantages of the symmetrical hotel. It is not only a pattern
+of vases and stuffed flamingoes; it is also an equally accurate pattern
+of cupboards and baths. It is a dignified and humane custom to have a
+bathroom attached to every bedroom; and my impulse to sing the praises
+of it brought me once at least into a rather quaint complication. I
+think it was in the city of Dayton; anyhow I remember there was a
+Laundry Convention going on in the same hotel, in a room very
+patriotically and properly festooned with the stars and stripes, and
+doubtless full of promise for the future of laundering. I was
+interviewed on the roof, within earshot of this debate, and may have
+been the victim of some association or confusion; anyhow, after
+answering the usual questions about Labour, the League of Nations, the
+length of ladies'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> dresses, and other great matters, I took refuge in a
+rhapsody of warm and well-deserved praise of American bathrooms. The
+editor, I understand, running a gloomy eye down the column of his
+contributor's 'story,' and seeing nothing but metaphysical terms such as
+justice, freedom, the abstract disapproval of sweating, swindling, and
+the like, paused at last upon the ablutionary allusion, and his eye
+brightened. 'That's the only copy in the whole thing,' he said, 'A
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' So these words appeared in enormous letters
+above my portrait in the paper. It will be noted that, like many things
+that practical men make a great point of, they miss the point. What I
+had commended as new and national was a bathroom in every bedroom. Even
+feudal and moss-grown England is not entirely ignorant of an occasional
+bath-tub in the home. But what gave me great joy was what followed. I
+discovered with delight that many people, glancing rapidly at my
+portrait with its prodigious legend, imagined that it was a commercial
+advertisement, and that I was a very self-advertising commercial
+traveller. When I walked about the streets, I was supposed to be
+travelling in bath-tubs. Consider the caption of the portrait, and you
+will see how similar it is to the true commercial slogan: 'We offer a
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' And this charming error was doubtless clinched
+by the fact that I had been found haunting the outer courts of the
+temple of the ancient Guild of Lavenders. I never knew how many shared
+the impression; I regret to say that I only traced it with certainty in
+two individuals. But I understand that it included the idea that I had
+come to the town to attend the Laundry Convention, and had made an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+eloquent speech to that senate, no doubt exhibiting my tubs.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the penalty of too passionate and unrestrained an admiration
+for American bathrooms; yet the connection of ideas, however
+inconsequent, does cover the part of social practice for which these
+American institutions can really be praised. About everything like
+laundry or hot and cold water there is not only organisation, but what
+does not always or perhaps often go with it, efficiency. Americans are
+particular about these things of dress and decorum; and it is a virtue
+which I very seriously recognise, though I find it very hard to emulate.
+But with them it is a virtue; it is not a mere convention, still less a
+mere fashion. It is really related to human dignity rather than to
+social superiority. The really glorious thing about the American is that
+he does not dress like a gentleman; he dresses like a citizen or a
+civilised man. His Puritanic particularity on certain points is really
+detachable from any definite social ambitions; these things are not a
+part of getting into society but merely of keeping out of savagery.
+Those millions and millions of middling people, that huge middle class
+especially of the Middle West, are not near enough to any aristocracy
+even to be sham aristocrats, or to be real snobs. But their standards
+are secure; and though I do not really travel in a bath-tub, or believe
+in the bath-tub philosophy and religion, I will not on this matter
+recoil misanthropically from them: I prefer the tub of Dayton to the tub
+of Diogenes. On these points there is really something a million times
+better than efficiency, and that is something like equality.</p>
+
+<p>In short, the American hotel is not America; but it is American. In some
+respects it is as American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> as the English inn is English. And it is
+symbolic of that society in this among other things: that it does tend
+too much to uniformity; but that that very uniformity disguises not a
+little natural dignity. The old Romans boasted that their republic was a
+nation of kings. If we really walked abroad in such a kingdom, we might
+very well grow tired of the sight of a crowd of kings, of every man with
+a gold crown on his head or an ivory sceptre in his hand. But it is
+arguable that we ought not to grow tired of the repetition of crowns and
+sceptres, any more than of the repetition of flowers and stars. The
+whole imaginative effort of Walt Whitman was really an effort to absorb
+and animate these multitudinous modern repetitions; and Walt Whitman
+would be quite capable of including in his lyric litany of optimism a
+list of the nine hundred and ninety-nine identical bathrooms. I do not
+sneer at the generous effort of the giant; though I think, when all is
+said, that it is a criticism of modern machinery that the effort should
+be gigantic as well as generous.</p>
+
+<p>While there is so much repetition there is little repose. It is the
+pattern of a kaleidoscope rather than a wall-paper; a pattern of figures
+running and even leaping like the figures in a zoetrope. But even in the
+groups where there was no hustle there was often something of
+homelessness. I do not mean merely that they were not dining at home;
+but rather that they were not at home even when dining, and dining at
+their favourite hotel. They would frequently start up and dart from the
+room at a summons from the telephone. It may have been fanciful, but I
+could not help feeling a breath of home, as from a flap or flutter of
+St. George's Cross, when I first sat down in a Canadian hostelry, and
+read the announcement that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> no such telephonic or other summonses were
+allowed in the dining-room. It may have been a coincidence, and there
+may be American hotels with this merciful proviso and Canadian hotels
+without it; but the thing was symbolic even if it was not evidential. I
+felt as if I stood indeed upon English soil, in a place where people
+liked to have their meals in peace.</p>
+
+<p>The process of the summons is called 'paging,' and consists of sending a
+little boy with a large voice through all the halls and corridors of the
+building, making them resound with a name. The custom is common, of
+course, in clubs and hotels even in England; but in England it is a mere
+whisper compared with the wail with which the American page repeats the
+formula of 'Calling Mr. So and So.' I remember a particularly crowded
+<i>parterre</i> in the somewhat smoky and oppressive atmosphere of Pittsburg,
+through which wandered a youth with a voice the like of which I have
+never heard in the land of the living, a voice like the cry of a lost
+spirit, saying again and again for ever, 'Carling Mr. Anderson.' One
+felt that he never would find Mr. Anderson. Perhaps there never had been
+any Mr. Anderson to be found. Perhaps he and every one else wandered in
+an abyss of bottomless scepticism; and he was but the victim of one out
+of numberless nightmares of eternity, as he wandered a shadow with
+shadows and wailed by impassable streams. This is not exactly my
+philosophy, but I feel sure it was his. And it is a mood that may
+frequently visit the mind in the centres of highly active and successful
+industrial civilisation.</p>
+
+<p>Such are the first idle impressions of the great American hotel, gained
+by sitting for the first time in its gallery and gazing on its drifting
+crowds with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> thoughts equally drifting. The first impression is of
+something enormous and rather unnatural, an impression that is gradually
+tempered by experience of the kindliness and even the tameness of so
+much of that social order. But I should not be recording the sensations
+with sincerity, if I did not touch in passing the note of something
+unearthly about that vast system to an insular traveller who sees it for
+the first time. It is as if he were wandering in another world among the
+fixed stars; or worse still, in an ideal Utopia of the future.</p>
+
+<p>Yet I am not certain; and perhaps the best of all news is that nothing
+is really new. I sometimes have a fancy that many of these new things in
+new countries are but the resurrections of old things which have been
+wickedly killed or stupidly stunted in old countries. I have looked over
+the sea of little tables in some light and airy open-air caf&eacute;; and my
+thoughts have gone back to the plain wooden bench and wooden table that
+stands solitary and weather-stained outside so many neglected English
+inns. We talk of experimenting in the French caf&eacute;, as of some fresh and
+almost impudent innovation. But our fathers had the French caf&eacute;, in the
+sense of the free-and-easy table in the sun and air. The only difference
+was that French democracy was allowed to develop its caf&eacute;, or multiply
+its tables, while English plutocracy prevented any such popular growth.
+Perhaps there are other examples of old types and patterns, lost in the
+old oligarchy and saved in the new democracies. I am haunted with a hint
+that the new structures are not so very new; and that they remind me of
+something very old. As I look from the balcony floor the crowds seem to
+float away and the colours to soften and grow pale, and I know I am in
+one of the simplest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> and most ancestral of human habitations. I am
+looking down from the old wooden gallery upon the courtyard of an inn.
+This new architectural model, which I have described, is after all one
+of the oldest European models, now neglected in Europe and especially in
+England. It was the theatre in which were enacted innumerable picaresque
+comedies and romantic plays, with figures ranging from Sancho Panza to
+Sam Weller. It served as the apparatus, like some gigantic toy set up in
+bricks and timber, for the ancient and perhaps eternal game of tennis.
+The very terms of the original game were taken from the inn courtyard,
+and the players scored accordingly as they hit the buttery-hatch or the
+roof. Singular speculations hover in my mind as the scene darkens and
+the quadrangle below begins to empty in the last hours of night. Some
+day perhaps this huge structure will be found standing in a solitude
+like a skeleton; and it will be the skeleton of the Spotted Dog or the
+Blue Boar. It will wither and decay until it is worthy at last to be a
+tavern. I do not know whether men will play tennis on its ground floor,
+with various scores and prizes for hitting the electric fan, or the
+lift, or the head waiter. Perhaps the very words will only remain as
+part of some such rustic game. Perhaps the electric fan will no longer
+be electric and the elevator will no longer elevate, and the waiter will
+only wait to be hit. But at least it is only by the decay of modern
+plutocracy, which seems already to have begun, that the secret of the
+structure even of this plutocratic palace can stand revealed. And after
+long years, when its lights are extinguished and only the long shadows
+inhabit its halls and vestibules, there may come a new noise like
+thunder; of D'Artagnan knocking at the door.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="A_Meditation_in_Broadway" id="A_Meditation_in_Broadway"></a><i>A Meditation in Broadway</i></h2>
+
+<p>When I had looked at the lights of Broadway by night, I made to my
+American friends an innocent remark that seemed for some reason to amuse
+them. I had looked, not without joy, at that long kaleidoscope of
+coloured lights arranged in large letters and sprawling trade-marks,
+advertising everything, from pork to pianos, through the agency of the
+two most vivid and most mystical of the gifts of God; colour and fire. I
+said to them, in my simplicity, 'What a glorious garden of wonders this
+would be, to any one who was lucky enough to be unable to read.'</p>
+
+<p>Here it is but a text for a further suggestion. But let us suppose that
+there does walk down this flaming avenue a peasant, of the sort called
+scornfully an illiterate peasant; by those who think that insisting on
+people reading and writing is the best way to keep out the spies who
+read in all languages and the forgers who write in all hands. On this
+principle indeed, a peasant merely acquainted with things of little
+practical use to mankind, such as ploughing, cutting wood, or growing
+vegetables, would very probably be excluded; and it is not for us to
+criticise from the outside the philosophy of those who would keep out
+the farmer and let in the forger. But let us suppose, if only for the
+sake of argument, that the peasant is walking under the artificial suns
+and stars of this tremendous thoroughfare; that he has escaped to the
+land of liberty upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> some general rumour and romance of the story of
+its liberation, but without being yet able to understand the arbitrary
+signs of its alphabet. The soul of such a man would surely soar higher
+than the sky-scrapers, and embrace a brotherhood broader than Broadway.
+Realising that he had arrived on an evening of exceptional festivity,
+worthy to be blazoned with all this burning heraldry, he would please
+himself by guessing what great proclamation or principle of the Republic
+hung in the sky like a constellation or rippled across the street like a
+comet. He would be shrewd enough to guess that the three festoons
+fringed with fiery words of somewhat similar pattern stood for
+'Government of the People, For the People, By the People'; for it must
+obviously be that, unless it were 'Liberty, Equality, Fraternity.' His
+shrewdness would perhaps be a little shaken if he knew that the triad
+stood for 'Tang Tonic To-day; Tang Tonic To-morrow; Tang Tonic All the
+Time.' He will soon identify a restless ribbon of red lettering, red hot
+and rebellious, as the saying, 'Give me liberty or give me death.' He
+will fail to identify it as the equally famous saying, 'Skyoline Has
+Gout Beaten to a Frazzle.' Therefore it was that I desired the peasant
+to walk down that grove of fiery trees, under all that golden foliage,
+and fruits like monstrous jewels, as innocent as Adam before the Fall.
+He would see sights almost as fine as the flaming sword or the purple
+and peacock plumage of the seraphim; so long as he did not go near the
+Tree of Knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>In other words, if once he went to school it would be all up; and indeed
+I fear in any case he would soon discover his error. If he stood wildly
+waving his hat for liberty in the middle of the road as Chunk<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> Chutney
+picked itself out in ruby stars upon the sky, he would impede the
+excellent but extremely rigid traffic system of New York. If he fell on
+his knees before a sapphire splendour, and began saying an Ave Maria
+under a mistaken association, he would be conducted kindly but firmly by
+an Irish policeman to a more authentic shrine. But though the foreign
+simplicity might not long survive in New York, it is quite a mistake to
+suppose that such foreign simplicity cannot enter New York. He may be
+excluded for being illiterate, but he cannot be excluded for being
+ignorant, nor for being innocent. Least of all can he be excluded for
+being wiser in his innocence than the world in its knowledge. There is
+here indeed more than one distinction to be made. New York is a
+cosmopolitan city; but it is not a city of cosmopolitans. Most of the
+masses in New York have a nation, whether or no it be the nation to
+which New York belongs. Those who are Americanised are American, and
+very patriotically American. Those who are not thus nationalised are not
+in the least internationalised. They simply continue to be themselves;
+the Irish are Irish; the Jews are Jewish; and all sorts of other tribes
+carry on the traditions of remote European valleys almost untouched. In
+short, there is a sort of slender bridge between their old country and
+their new, which they either cross or do not cross, but which they
+seldom simply occupy. They are exiles or they are citizens; there is no
+moment when they are cosmopolitans. But very often the exiles bring with
+them not only rooted traditions, but rooted truths.</p>
+
+<p>Indeed it is to a great extent the thought of these strange souls in
+crude American garb that gives a meaning to the masquerade of New York.
+In the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> hotel where I stayed the head waiter in one room was a Bohemian;
+and I am glad to say that he called himself a Bohemian. I have already
+protested sufficiently, before American audiences, against the pedantry
+of perpetually talking about Czecho-Slovakia. I suggested to my American
+friends that the abandonment of the word Bohemian in its historical
+sense might well extend to its literary and figurative sense. We might
+be expected to say, 'I'm afraid Henry has got into very Czecho-Slovakian
+habits lately,' or 'Don't bother to dress; it's quite a Czecho-Slovakian
+affair.' Anyhow my Bohemian would have nothing to do with such nonsense;
+he called himself a son of Bohemia, and spoke as such in his criticisms
+of America, which were both favourable and unfavourable. He was a squat
+man, with a sturdy figure and a steady smile; and his eyes were like
+dark pools in the depth of a darker forest, but I do not think he had
+ever been deceived by the lights of Broadway.</p>
+
+<p>But I found something like my real innocent abroad, my real peasant
+among the sky-signs, in another part of the same establishment. He was a
+much leaner man, equally dark, with a hook nose, hungry face, and fierce
+black moustaches. He also was a waiter, and was in the costume of a
+waiter, which is a smarter edition of the costume of a lecturer. As he
+was serving me with clam chowder or some such thing, I fell into speech
+with him and he told me he was a Bulgar. I said something like, 'I'm
+afraid I don't know as much as I ought to about Bulgaria. I suppose most
+of your people are agricultural, aren't they?' He did not stir an inch
+from his regular attitude, but he slightly lowered his low voice and
+said, 'Yes. From the earth we come and to the earth we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> return; when
+people get away from that they are lost.'</p>
+
+<p>To hear such a thing said by the waiter was alone an epoch in the life
+of an unfortunate writer of fantastic novels. To see him clear away the
+clam chowder like an automaton, and bring me more iced water like an
+automaton or like nothing on earth except an American waiter (for piling
+up ice is the cold passion of their lives), and all this after having
+uttered something so dark and deep, so starkly incongruous and so
+startlingly true, was an indescribable thing, but very like the picture
+of the peasant admiring Broadway. So he passed, with his artificial
+clothes and manners, lit up with all the ghastly artificial light of the
+hotel, and all the ghastly artificial life of the city; and his heart
+was like his own remote and rocky valley, where those unchanging words
+were carved as on a rock.</p>
+
+<p>I do not profess to discuss here at all adequately the question this
+raises about the Americanisation of the Bulgar. It has many aspects, of
+some of which most Englishmen and even some Americans are rather
+unconscious. For one thing, a man with so rugged a loyalty to land could
+not be Americanised in New York; but it is not so certain that he could
+not be Americanised in America. We might almost say that a peasantry is
+hidden in the heart of America. So far as our impressions go, it is a
+secret. It is rather an open secret; covering only some thousand square
+miles of open prairie. But for most of our countrymen it is something
+invisible, unimagined, and unvisited; the simple truth that where all
+those acres are there is agriculture, and where all that agriculture is
+there is considerable tendency towards distributive or decently
+equalised property, as in a peasantry. On<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> the other hand, there are
+those who say that the Bulgar will never be Americanised, that he only
+comes to be a waiter in America that he may afford to return to be a
+peasant in Bulgaria. I cannot decide this issue, and indeed I did not
+introduce it to this end. I was led to it by a certain line of
+reflection that runs along the Great White Way, and I will continue to
+follow it. The criticism, if we could put it rightly, not only covers
+more than New York but more than the whole New World. Any argument
+against it is quite as valid against the largest and richest cities of
+the Old World, against London or Liverpool or Frankfort or Belfast. But
+it is in New York that we see the argument most clearly, because we see
+the thing thus towering into its own turrets and breaking into its own
+fireworks.</p>
+
+<p>I disagree with the aesthetic condemnation of the modern city with its
+sky-scrapers and sky-signs. I mean that which laments the loss of beauty
+and its sacrifice to utility. It seems to me the very reverse of the
+truth. Years ago, when people used to say the Salvation Army doubtless
+had good intentions, but we must all deplore its methods, I pointed out
+that the very contrary is the case. Its method, the method of drums and
+democratic appeal, is that of the Franciscans or any other march of the
+Church Militant. It was precisely its aims that were dubious, with their
+dissenting morality and despotic finance. It is somewhat the same with
+things like the sky-signs in Broadway. The aesthete must not ask me to
+mingle my tears with his, because these things are merely useful and
+ugly. For I am not specially inclined to think them ugly; but I am
+strongly inclined to think them useless. As a matter of art for art's
+sake, they seem to me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> rather artistic. As a form of practical social
+work they seem to me stark stupid waste. If Mr. Bilge is rich enough to
+build a tower four hundred feet high and give it a crown of golden
+crescents and crimson stars, in order to draw attention to his
+manufacture of the Paradise Tooth Paste or The Seventh Heaven Cigar, I
+do not feel the least disposition to thank him for any serious form of
+social service. I have never tried the Seventh Heaven Cigar; indeed a
+premonition moves me towards the belief that I shall go down to the dust
+without trying it. I have every reason to doubt whether it does any
+particular good to those who smoke it, or any good to anybody except
+those who sell it. In short Mr. Bilge's usefulness consists in being
+useful to Mr. Bilge, and all the rest is illusion and sentimentalism.
+But because I know that Bilge is only Bilge, shall I stoop to the
+profanity of saying that fire is only fire? Shall I blaspheme crimson
+stars any more than crimson sunsets, or deny that those moons are golden
+any more than that this grass is green? If a child saw these coloured
+lights, he would dance with as much delight as at any other coloured
+toys; and it is the duty of every poet, and even of every critic, to
+dance in respectful imitation of the child. Indeed I am in a mood of so
+much sympathy with the fairy lights of this pantomime city, that I
+should be almost sorry to see social sanity and a sense of proportion
+return to extinguish them. I fear the day is breaking, and the broad
+daylight of tradition and ancient truth is coming to end all this
+delightful nightmare of New York at night. Peasants and priests and all
+sorts of practical and sensible people are coming back into power, and
+their stern realism may wither all these beautiful, unsubstantial,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+useless things. They will not believe in the Seventh Heaven Cigar, even
+when they see it shining as with stars in the seventh heaven. They will
+not be affected by advertisements, any more than the priests and
+peasants of the Middle Ages would have been affected by advertisements.
+Only a very soft-headed, sentimental, and rather servile generation of
+men could possibly be affected by advertisements at all. People who are
+a little more hard-headed, humorous, and intellectually independent, see
+the rather simple joke; and are not impressed by this or any other form
+of self-praise. Almost any other men in almost any other age would have
+seen the joke. If you had said to a man in the Stone Age, 'Ugg says Ugg
+makes the best stone hatchets,' he would have perceived a lack of
+detachment and disinterestedness about the testimonial. If you had said
+to a medieval peasant, 'Robert the Bowyer proclaims, with three blasts
+of a horn, that he makes good bows,' the peasant would have said, 'Well,
+of course he does,' and thought about something more important. It is
+only among people whose minds have been weakened by a sort of mesmerism
+that so transparent a trick as that of advertisement could ever have
+been tried at all. And if ever we have again, as for other reasons I
+cannot but hope we shall, a more democratic distribution of property and
+a more agricultural basis of national life, it would seem at first sight
+only too likely that all this beautiful superstition will perish, and
+the fairyland of Broadway with all its varied rainbows fade away. For
+such people the Seventh Heaven Cigar, like the nineteenth-century city,
+will have ended in smoke. And even the smoke of it will have vanished.</p>
+
+<p>But the next stage of reflection brings us back to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> the peasant looking
+at the lights of Broadway. It is not true to say in the strict sense
+that the peasant has never seen such things before. The truth is that he
+has seen them on a much smaller scale, but for a much larger purpose.
+Peasants also have their ritual and ornament, but it is to adorn more
+real things. Apart from our first fancy about the peasant who could not
+read, there is no doubt about what would be apparent to a peasant who
+could read, and who could understand. For him also fire is sacred, for
+him also colour is symbolic. But where he sets up a candle to light the
+little shrine of St. Joseph, he finds it takes twelve hundred candles to
+light the Seventh Heaven Cigar. He is used to the colours in church
+windows showing red for martyrs or blue for madonnas; but here he can
+only conclude that all the colours of the rainbow belong to Mr. Bilge.
+Now upon the aesthetic side he might well be impressed; but it is
+exactly on the social and even scientific side that he has a right to
+criticise. If he were a Chinese peasant, for instance, and came from a
+land of fireworks, he would naturally suppose that he had happened to
+arrive at a great firework display in celebration of something; perhaps
+the Sacred Emperor's birthday, or rather birthnight. It would gradually
+dawn on the Chinese philosopher that the Emperor could hardly be born
+every night. And when he learnt the truth the philosopher, if he was a
+philosopher, would be a little disappointed ... possibly a little
+disdainful.</p>
+
+<p>Compare, for instance, these everlasting fireworks with the damp squibs
+and dying bonfires of Guy Fawkes Day. That quaint and even queer
+national festival has been fading for some time out of English life.
+Still, it was a national festival, in the double<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> sense that it
+represented some sort of public spirit pursued by some sort of popular
+impulse. People spent money on the display of fireworks; they did not
+get money by it. And the people who spent money were often those who had
+very little money to spend. It had something of the glorious and
+fanatical character of making the poor poorer. It did not, like the
+advertisements, have only the mean and materialistic character of making
+the rich richer. In short, it came from the people and it appealed to
+the nation. The historical and religious cause in which it originated is
+not mine; and I think it has perished partly through being tied to a
+historical theory for which there is no future. I think this is
+illustrated in the very fact that the ceremonial is merely negative and
+destructive. Negation and destruction are very noble things as far as
+they go, and when they go in the right direction; and the popular
+expression of them has always something hearty and human about it. I
+shall not therefore bring any fine or fastidious criticism, whether
+literary or musical, to bear upon the little boys who drag about a
+bolster and a paper mask, calling out</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>Guy Fawkes Guy</div>
+<div>Hit him in the eye.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But I admit it is a disadvantage that they have not a saint or hero to
+crown in effigy as well as a traitor to burn in effigy. I admit that
+popular Protestantism has become too purely negative for people to
+wreathe in flowers the statue of Mr. Kensit or even of Dr. Clifford. I
+do not disguise my preference for popular Catholicism; which still has
+statues that can be wreathed in flowers. I wish our national feast of
+fireworks revolved round something positive and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> popular. I wish the
+beauty of a Catherine Wheel were displayed to the glory of St.
+Catherine. I should not especially complain if Roman candles were really
+Roman candles. But this negative character does not destroy the national
+character; which began at least in disinterested faith and has ended at
+least in disinterested fun. There is nothing disinterested at all about
+the new commercial fireworks. There is nothing so dignified as a dingy
+guy among the lights of Broadway. In that thoroughfare, indeed, the very
+word guy has another and milder significance. An American friend
+congratulated me on the impression I produced on a lady interviewer,
+observing, 'She says you're a regular guy.' This puzzled me a little at
+the time. 'Her description is no doubt correct,' I said, 'but I confess
+that it would never have struck me as specially complimentary.' But it
+appears that it is one of the most graceful of compliments, in the
+original American. A guy in America is a colourless term for a human
+being. All men are guys, being endowed by their Creator with certain ...
+but I am misled by another association. And a regular guy means, I
+presume, a reliable or respectable guy. The point here, however, is that
+the guy in the grotesque English sense does represent the dilapidated
+remnant of a real human tradition of symbolising real historic ideals by
+the sacramental mystery of fire. It is a great fall from the lowest of
+these lowly bonfires to the highest of the modern sky-signs. The new
+illumination does not stand for any national ideal at all; and what is
+yet more to the point, it does not come from any popular enthusiasm at
+all. That is where it differs from the narrowest national Protestantism
+of the English institution. Mobs have risen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> in support of No Popery; no
+mobs are likely to rise in defence of the New Puffery. Many a poor crazy
+Orangeman has died saying, 'To Hell with the Pope'; it is doubtful
+whether any man will ever, with his last breath, frame the ecstatic
+words, 'Try Hugby's Chewing Gum.' These modern and mercantile legends
+are imposed upon us by a mercantile minority, and we are merely passive
+to the suggestion. The hypnotist of high finance or big business merely
+writes his commands in heaven with a finger of fire. All men really are
+guys, in the sense of dummies. We are only the victims of his
+pyrotechnic violence; and it is he who hits us in the eye.</p>
+
+<p>This is the real case against that modern society that is symbolised by
+such art and architecture. It is not that it is toppling, but that it is
+top-heavy. It is not that it is vulgar, but rather that it is not
+popular. In other words, the democratic ideal of countries like America,
+while it is still generally sincere and sometimes intense, is at issue
+with another tendency, an industrial progress which is of all things on
+earth the most undemocratic. America is not alone in possessing the
+industrialism, but she is alone in emphasising the ideal that strives
+with industrialism. Industrial capitalism and ideal democracy are
+everywhere in controversy; but perhaps only here are they in conflict.
+France has a democratic ideal; but France is not industrial. England and
+Germany are industrial; but England and Germany are not really
+democratic. Of course when I speak here of industrialism I speak of
+great industrial areas; there is, as will be noted later, another side
+to all these countries; there is in America itself not only a great deal
+of agricultural society, but a great deal of agricultural equality;
+just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> as there are still peasants in Germany and may some day again be
+peasants in England. But the point is that the ideal and its enemy the
+reality are here crushed very close to each other in the high, narrow
+city; and that the sky-scraper is truly named because its top, towering
+in such insolence, is scraping the stars off the American sky, the very
+heaven of the American spirit.</p>
+
+<p>That seems to me the main outline of the whole problem. In the first
+chapter of this book, I have emphasised the fact that equality is still
+the ideal though no longer the reality of America. I should like to
+conclude this one by emphasising the fact that the reality of modern
+capitalism is menacing that ideal with terrors and even splendours that
+might well stagger the wavering and impressionable modern spirit. Upon
+the issue of that struggle depends the question of whether this new
+great civilisation continues to exist, and even whether any one cares if
+it exists or not. I have already used the parable of the American flag,
+and the stars that stand for a multitudinous equality; I might here take
+the opposite symbol of these artificial and terrestrial stars flaming on
+the forehead of the commercial city; and note the peril of the last
+illusion, which is that the artificial stars may seem to fill the
+heavens, and the real stars to have faded from sight. But I am content
+for the moment to reaffirm the merely imaginative pleasure of those
+dizzy turrets and dancing fires. If those nightmare buildings were
+really all built for nothing, how noble they would be! The fact that
+they were really built for something need not unduly depress us for a
+moment, or drag down our soaring fancies. There is something about these
+vertical lines that suggests a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> sort of rush upwards, as of great
+cataracts topsy-turvy. I have spoken of fireworks, but here I should
+rather speak of rockets. There is only something underneath the mind
+murmuring that nothing remains at last of a flaming rocket except a
+falling stick. I have spoken of Babylonian perspectives, and of words
+written with a fiery finger, like that huge unhuman finger that wrote on
+Belshazzar's wall.... But what did it write on Belshazzar's wall?... I
+am content once more to end on a note of doubt and a rather dark
+sympathy with those many-coloured solar systems turning so dizzily, far
+up in the divine vacuum of the night.</p>
+
+<p>'From the earth we come and to the earth we return; when people get away
+from that they are lost.'</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Irish_and_other_Interviewers" id="Irish_and_other_Interviewers"></a><i>Irish and other Interviewers</i></h2>
+
+<p>It is often asked what should be the first thing that a man sees when he
+lands in a foreign country; but I think it should be the vision of his
+own country. At least when I came into New York Harbour, a sort of grey
+and green cloud came between me and the towers with multitudinous
+windows, white in the winter sunlight; and I saw an old brown house
+standing back among the beech-trees at home, the house of only one among
+many friends and neighbours, but one somehow so sunken in the very heart
+of England as to be unconscious of her imperial or international
+position, and out of the sound of her perilous seas. But what made most
+clear the vision that revisited me was something else. Before we touched
+land the men of my own guild, the journalists and reporters, had already
+boarded the ship like pirates. And one of them spoke to me in an accent
+that I knew; and thanked me for all I had done for Ireland. And it was
+at that moment that I knew most vividly that what I wanted was to do
+something for England.</p>
+
+<p>Then, as it chanced, I looked across at the statue of Liberty, and saw
+that the great bronze was gleaming green in the morning light. I had
+made all the obvious jokes about the statue of Liberty. I found it had a
+soothing effect on earnest Prohibitionists on the boat to urge, as a
+point of dignity and delicacy, that it ought to be given back to the
+French, a vicious race<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> abandoned to the culture of the vine. I proposed
+that the last liquors on board should be poured out in a pagan libation
+before it. And then I suddenly remembered that this Liberty was still in
+some sense enlightening the world, or one part of the world; was a lamp
+for one sort of wanderer, a star of one sort of seafarer. To one
+persecuted people at least this land had really been an asylum; even if
+recent legislation (as I have said) had made them think it a lunatic
+asylum. They had made it so much their home that the very colour of the
+country seemed to change with the infusion; as the bronze of the great
+statue took on a semblance of the wearing of the green.</p>
+
+<p>It is a commonplace that the Englishman has been stupid in his relations
+with the Irish; but he has been far more stupid in his relations with
+the Americans on the subject of the Irish. His propaganda has been worse
+than his practice; and his defence more ill-considered than the most
+indefensible things that it was intended to defend. There is in this
+matter a curious tangle of cross-purposes, which only a parallel example
+can make at all clear. And I will note the point here, because it is
+some testimony to its vivid importance that it was really the first I
+had to discuss on American soil with an American citizen. In a double
+sense I touched Ireland before I came to America. I will take an
+imaginary instance from another controversy; in order to show how the
+apology can be worse than the action. The best we can say for ourselves
+is worse than the worst that we can do.</p>
+
+<p>There was a time when English poets and other publicists could always be
+inspired with instantaneous indignation about the persecuted Jews in
+Russia. We have heard less about them since we heard more about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> the
+persecuting Jews in Russia. I fear there are a great many middle-class
+Englishmen already who wish that Trotsky had been persecuted a little
+more. But even in those days Englishmen divided their minds in a curious
+fashion; and unconsciously distinguished between the Jews whom they had
+never seen, in Warsaw, and the Jews whom they had often seen in
+Whitechapel. It seemed to be assumed that, by a curious coincidence,
+Russia possessed not only the very worst Anti-Semites but the very best
+Semites. A moneylender in London might be like Judas Iscariot; but a
+moneylender in Moscow must be like Judas Maccabaeus.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless there remained in our common sense an unconscious but
+fundamental comprehension of the unity of Israel; a sense that some
+things could be said, and some could not be said, about the Jews as a
+whole. Suppose that even in those days, to say nothing of these, an
+English protest against Russian Anti-Semitism had been answered by the
+Russian Anti-Semites, and suppose the answer had been somewhat as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'It is all very well for foreigners to complain of our denying civic
+rights to our Jewish subjects; but we know the Jews better than they do.
+They are a barbarous people, entirely primitive, and very like the
+simple savages who cannot count beyond five on their fingers. It is
+quite impossible to make them understand ordinary numbers, to say
+nothing of simple economics. They do not realise the meaning or the
+value of money. No Jew anywhere in the world can get into his stupid
+head the notion of a bargain, or of exchanging one thing for another.
+Their hopeless incapacity for commerce or finance would retard the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+progress of our people, would prevent the spread of any sort of economic
+education, would keep the whole country on a level lower than that of
+the most prehistoric methods of barter. What Russia needs most is a
+mercantile middle class; and it is unjust to ask us to swamp its small
+beginnings in thousands of these rude tribesmen, who cannot do a sum of
+simple addition, or understand the symbolic character of a threepenny
+bit. We might as well be asked to give civic rights to cows and pigs as
+to this unhappy, half-witted race who can no more count than the beasts
+of the field. In every intellectual exercise they are hopelessly
+incompetent; no Jew can play chess; no Jew can learn languages; no Jew
+has ever appeared in the smallest part in any theatrical performance; no
+Jew can give or take any pleasure connected with any musical instrument.
+These people are our subjects; and we understand them. We accept full
+responsibility for treating such troglodytes on our own terms.'</p>
+
+<p>It would not be entirely convincing. It would sound a little far-fetched
+and unreal. But it would sound exactly like our utterances about the
+Irish, as they sound to all Americans, and rather especially to
+Anti-Irish Americans. That is exactly the impression we produce on the
+people of the United States when we say, as we do say in substance,
+something like this: 'We mean no harm to the poor dear Irish, so dreamy,
+so irresponsible, so incapable of order or organisation. If we were to
+withdraw from their country they would only fight among themselves; they
+have no notion of how to rule themselves. There is something charming
+about their unpracticability, about their very incapacity for the coarse
+business of politics. But for their own sakes it is impossible to leave
+these emotional<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> visionaries to ruin themselves in the attempt to rule
+themselves. They are like children; but they are our own children, and
+we understand them. We accept full responsibility for acting as their
+parents and guardians.'</p>
+
+<p>Now the point is not only that this view of the Irish is false, but that
+it is the particular view that the Americans know to be false. While we
+are saying that the Irish could not organise, the Americans are
+complaining, often very bitterly, of the power of Irish organisation.
+While we say that the Irishman could not rule himself, the Americans are
+saying, more or less humorously, that the Irishman rules them. A highly
+intelligent professor said to me in Boston, 'We have solved the Irish
+problem here; we have an entirely independent Irish Government.' While
+we are complaining, in an almost passionate manner, of the impotence of
+mere cliques of idealists and dreamers, they are complaining, often in a
+very indignant manner, of the power of great gangs of bosses and
+bullies. There are a great many Americans who pity the Irish, very
+naturally and very rightly, for the historic martyrdom which their
+patriotism has endured. But there are a great many Americans who do not
+pity the Irish in the least. They would be much more likely to pity the
+English; only this particular way of talking tends rather to make them
+despise the English. Thus both the friends of Ireland and the foes of
+Ireland tend to be the foes of England. We make one set of enemies by
+our action, and another by our apology.</p>
+
+<p>It is a thing that can from time to time be found in history; a
+misunderstanding that really has a moral. The English excuse would carry
+much more weight if it had more sincerity and more humility. There are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+a considerable number of people in the United States who could
+sympathise with us, if we would say frankly that we fear the Irish.
+Those who thus despise our pity might possibly even respect our fear.
+The argument I have often used in other places comes back with
+prodigious and redoubled force, after hearing anything of American
+opinion; the argument that the only reasonable or reputable excuse for
+the English is the excuse of a patriotic sense of peril; and that the
+Unionist, if he must be a Unionist, should use that and no other. When
+the Unionist has said that he dare not let loose against himself a
+captive he has so cruelly wronged, he has said all that he has to say;
+all that he has ever had to say; all that he will ever have to say. He
+is like a man who has sent a virile and rather vindictive rival unjustly
+to penal servitude; and who connives at the continuance of the sentence,
+not because he himself is particularly vindictive, but because he is
+afraid of what the convict will do when he comes out of prison. This is
+not exactly a moral strength, but it is a very human weakness; and that
+is the most that can be said for it. All other talk, about Celtic frenzy
+or Catholic superstition, is cant invented to deceive himself or to
+deceive the world. But the vital point to realise is that it is cant
+that cannot possibly deceive the American world. In the matter of the
+Irishman the American is not to be deceived. It is not merely true to
+say that he knows better. It is equally true to say that he knows worse.
+He knows vices and evils in the Irishman that are entirely hidden in the
+hazy vision of the Englishman. He knows that our unreal slanders are
+inconsistent even with the real sins. To us Ireland is a shadowy Isle of
+Sunset, like Atlantis, about which we can make<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> up legends. To him it is
+a positive ward or parish in the heart of his huge cities, like
+Whitechapel; about which even we cannot make legends but only lies. And,
+as I have said, there are some lies we do not tell even about
+Whitechapel. We do not say it is inhabited by Jews too stupid to count
+or know the value of a coin.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing for any honest Englishman to send across the sea is
+this; that the English have not the shadow of a notion of what they are
+up against in America. They have never even heard of the batteries of
+almost brutal energy, of which I had thus touched a live wire even
+before I landed. People talk about the hypocrisy of England in dealing
+with a small nationality. What strikes me is the stupidity of England in
+supposing that she is dealing with a small nationality; when she is
+really dealing with a very large nationality. She is dealing with a
+nationality that often threatens, even numerically, to dominate all the
+other nationalities of the United States. The Irish are not decaying;
+they are not unpractical; they are scarcely even scattered; they are not
+even poor. They are the most powerful and practical world-combination
+with whom we can decide to be friends or foes; and that is why I thought
+first of that still and solid brown house in Buckinghamshire, standing
+back in the shadow of the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Among my impressions of America I have deliberately put first the figure
+of the Irish-American interviewer, standing on the shore more symbolic
+than the statue of Liberty. The Irish interviewer's importance for the
+English lay in the fact of his being an Irishman, but there was also
+considerable interest in the circumstance of his being an interviewer.
+And as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> certain wild birds sometimes wing their way far out to sea and
+are the first signal of the shore, so the first Americans the traveller
+meets are often American interviewers; and they are generally birds of a
+feather, and they certainly flock together. In this respect, there is a
+slight difference in the etiquette of the craft in the two countries,
+which I was delighted to discuss with my fellow craftsmen. If I could at
+that moment have flown back to Fleet Street I am happy to reflect that
+nobody in the world would in the least wish to interview me. I should
+attract no more attention than the stone griffin opposite the Law
+Courts; both monsters being grotesque but also familiar. But supposing
+for the sake of argument that anybody did want to interview me, it is
+fairly certain that the fact of one paper publishing such an interview
+would rather prevent the other papers from doing so. The repetition of
+the same views of the same individual in two places would be considered
+rather bad journalism; it would have an air of stolen thunder, not to
+say stage thunder.</p>
+
+<p>But in America the fact of my landing and lecturing was evidently
+regarded in the same light as a murder or a great fire, or any other
+terrible but incurable catastrophe, a matter of interest to all pressmen
+concerned with practical events. One of the first questions I was asked
+was how I should be disposed to explain the wave of crime in New York.
+Naturally I replied that it might possibly be due to the number of
+English lecturers who had recently landed. In the mood of the moment it
+seemed possible that, if they had all been interviewed, regrettable
+incidents might possibly have taken place. But this was only the mood of
+the moment, and even as a mood did not last<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> more than a moment. And
+since it has reference to a rather common and a rather unjust conception
+of American journalism, I think it well to take it first as a fallacy to
+be refuted, though the refutation may require a rather longer approach.</p>
+
+<p>I have generally found that the traveller fails to understand a foreign
+country, through treating it as a tendency and not as a balance. But if
+a thing were always tending in one direction it would soon tend to
+destruction. Everything that merely progresses finally perishes. Every
+nation, like every family, exists upon a compromise, and commonly a
+rather eccentric compromise; using the word 'eccentric' in the sense of
+something that is somehow at once crazy and healthy. Now the foreigner
+commonly sees some feature that he thinks fantastic without seeing the
+feature that balances it. The ordinary examples are obvious enough. An
+Englishman dining inside a hotel on the boulevards thinks the French
+eccentric in refusing to open a window. But he does not think the
+English eccentric in refusing to carry their chairs and tables out on to
+the pavement in Ludgate Circus. An Englishman will go poking about in
+little Swiss or Italian villages, in wild mountains or in remote
+islands, demanding tea; and never reflects that he is like a Chinaman
+who should enter all the wayside public-houses in Kent and Sussex and
+demand opium. But the point is not merely that he demands what he cannot
+expect to enjoy; it is that he ignores even what he does enjoy. He does
+not realise the sublime and starry paradox of the phrase, <i>vin
+ordinaire</i>, which to him should be a glorious jest like the phrase
+'common gold' or 'daily diamonds.' These are the simple and self-evident
+cases; but there are many more subtle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> cases of the same thing; of the
+tendency to see that the nation fills up its own gap with its own
+substitute; or corrects its own extravagance with its own precaution.
+The national antidote generally grows wild in the woods side by side
+with the national poison. If it did not, all the natives would be dead.
+For it is so, as I have said, that nations necessarily die of the
+undiluted poison called progress.</p>
+
+<p>It is so in this much-abused and over-abused example of the American
+journalist. The American interviewers really have exceedingly good
+manners for the purposes of their trade, granted that it is necessary to
+pursue their trade. And even what is called their hustling method can
+truly be said to cut both ways, or hustle both ways; for if they hustle
+in, they also hustle out. It may not at first sight seem the very
+warmest compliment to a gentleman to congratulate him on the fact that
+he soon goes away. But it really is a tribute to his perfection in a
+very delicate social art; and I am quite serious when I say that in this
+respect the interviewers are artists. It might be more difficult for an
+Englishman to come to the point, particularly the sort of point which
+American journalists are supposed, with some exaggeration, to aim at. It
+might be more difficult for an Englishman to ask a total stranger on the
+spur of the moment for the exact inscription on his mother's grave; but
+I really think that if an Englishman once got so far as that he would go
+very much farther, and certainly go on very much longer. The Englishman
+would approach the churchyard by a rather more wandering woodland path;
+but if once he had got to the grave I think he would have much more
+disposition, so to speak, to sit down on it. Our own national
+temperament would find it decidedly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> more difficult to disconnect when
+connections had really been established. Possibly that is the reason why
+our national temperament does not establish them. I suspect that the
+real reason that an Englishman does not talk is that he cannot leave off
+talking. I suspect that my solitary countrymen, hiding in separate
+railway compartments, are not so much retiring as a race of Trappists as
+escaping from a race of talkers.</p>
+
+<p>However this may be, there is obviously something of practical advantage
+in the ease with which the American butterfly flits from flower to
+flower. He may in a sense force his acquaintance on us, but he does not
+force himself on us. Even when, to our prejudices, he seems to insist on
+knowing us, at least he does not insist on our knowing him. It may be,
+to some sensibilities, a bad thing that a total stranger should talk as
+if he were a friend, but it might possibly be worse if he insisted on
+being a friend before he would talk like one. To a great deal of the
+interviewing, indeed much the greater part of it, even this criticism
+does not apply; there is nothing which even an Englishman of extreme
+sensibility could regard as particularly private; the questions involved
+are generally entirely public, and treated with not a little public
+spirit. But my only reason for saying here what can be said even for the
+worst exceptions is to point out this general and neglected principle;
+that the very thing that we complain of in a foreigner generally carries
+with it its own foreign cure. American interviewing is generally very
+reasonable, and it is always very rapid. And even those to whom talking
+to an intelligent fellow creature is as horrible as having a tooth out
+may still admit that American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> interviewing has many of the qualities of
+American dentistry.</p>
+
+<p>Another effect that has given rise to this fallacy, this exaggeration of
+the vulgarity and curiosity of the press, is the distinction between the
+articles and the headlines; or rather the tendency to ignore that
+distinction. The few really untrue and unscrupulous things I have seen
+in American 'stories' have always been in the headlines. And the
+headlines are written by somebody else; some solitary and savage cynic
+locked up in the office, hating all mankind, and raging and revenging
+himself at random, while the neat, polite, and rational pressman can
+safely be let loose to wander about the town.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, I talked to two decidedly thoughtful fellow journalists
+immediately on my arrival at a town in which there had been some labour
+troubles. I told them my general view of Labour in the very largest and
+perhaps the vaguest historical outline; pointing out that the one great
+truth to be taught to the middle classes was that Capitalism was itself
+a crisis, and a passing crisis; that it was not so much that it was
+breaking down as that it had never really stood up. Slaveries could
+last, and peasantries could last; but wage-earning communities could
+hardly even live, and were already dying.</p>
+
+<p>All this moral and even metaphysical generalisation was most fairly and
+most faithfully reproduced by the interviewer, who had actually heard it
+casually and idly spoken. But on the top of this column of political
+philosophy was the extraordinary announcement in enormous letters,
+'Chesterton Takes Sides in Trolley Strike.' This was inaccurate. When I
+spoke I not only did not know that there was any trolley strike,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> but I
+did not know what a trolley strike was. I should have had an indistinct
+idea that a large number of citizens earned their living by carrying
+things about in wheel-barrows, and that they had desisted from the
+beneficent activities. Any one who did not happen to be a journalist, or
+know a little about journalism, American and English, would have
+supposed that the same man who wrote the article had suddenly gone mad
+and written the title. But I know that we have here to deal with two
+different types of journalists; and the man who writes the headlines I
+will not dare to describe; for I have not seen him except in dreams.</p>
+
+<p>Another innocent complication is that the interviewer does sometimes
+translate things into his native language. It would not seem odd that a
+French interviewer should translate them into French; and it is certain
+that the American interviewer sometimes translates them into American.
+Those who imagine the two languages to be the same are more innocent
+than any interviewer. To take one out of the twenty examples, some of
+which I have mentioned elsewhere, suppose an interviewer had said that I
+had the reputation of being a nut. I should be flattered but faintly
+surprised at such a tribute to my dress and dashing exterior. I should
+afterwards be sobered and enlightened by discovering that in America a
+nut does not mean a dandy but a defective or imbecile person. And as I
+have here to translate their American phrase into English, it may be
+very defensible that they should translate my English phrases into
+American. Anyhow they often do translate them into American. In answer
+to the usual question about Prohibition I had made the usual answer,
+obvious to the point of dullness to those who are in daily contact with
+it,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> that it is a law that the rich make knowing they can always break
+it. From the printed interview it appeared that I had said,
+'Prohibition! All matter of dollar sign.' This is almost avowed
+translation, like a French translation. Nobody can suppose that it would
+come natural to an Englishman to talk about a dollar, still less about a
+dollar sign&mdash;whatever that may be. It is exactly as if he had made me
+talk about the Skelt and Stevenson Toy Theatre as 'a cent plain, and two
+cents coloured' or condemned a parsimonious policy as dime-wise and
+dollar-foolish. Another interviewer once asked me who was the greatest
+American writer. I have forgotten exactly what I said, but after
+mentioning several names, I said that the greatest natural genius and
+artistic force was probably Walt Whitman. The printed interview is more
+precise; and students of my literary and conversational style will be
+interested to know that I said, 'See here, Walt Whitman was your one
+real red-blooded man.' Here again I hardly think the translation can
+have been quite unconscious; most of my intimates are indeed aware that
+I do not talk like that, but I fancy that the same fact would have
+dawned on the journalist to whom I had been talking. And even this
+trivial point carries with it the two truths which must be, I fear, the
+rather monotonous moral of these pages. The first is that America and
+England can be far better friends when sharply divided than when
+shapelessly amalgamated. These two journalists were false reporters, but
+they were true translators. They were not so much interviewers as
+interpreters. And the second is that in any such difference it is often
+wholesome to look beneath the surface for a superiority. For ability to
+translate does imply ability to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>understand; and many of these
+journalists really did understand. I think there are many English
+journalists who would be more puzzled by so simple an idea as the
+plutocratic foundation of Prohibition. But the American knew at once
+that I meant it was a matter of dollar sign; probably because he knew
+very well that it is.</p>
+
+<p>Then again there is a curious convention by which American interviewing
+makes itself out much worse than it is. The reports are far more rowdy
+and insolent than the conversations. This is probably a part of the fact
+that a certain vivacity, which to some seems vitality and to some
+vulgarity, is not only an ambition but an ideal. It must always be
+grasped that this vulgarity is an ideal even more than it is a reality.
+It is an ideal when it is not a reality. A very quiet and intelligent
+young man, in a soft black hat and tortoise-shell spectacles, will ask
+for an interview with unimpeachable politeness, wait for his living
+subject with unimpeachable patience, talk to him quite sensibly for
+twenty minutes, and go noiselessly away. Then in the newspaper next
+morning you will read how he beat the bedroom door in, and pursued his
+victim on to the roof or dragged him from under the bed, and tore from
+him replies to all sorts of bald and ruthless questions printed in large
+black letters. I was often interviewed in the evening, and had no notion
+of how atrociously I had been insulted till I saw it in the paper next
+morning. I had no notion I had been on the rack of an inquisitor until I
+saw it in plain print; and then of course I believed it, with a faith
+and docility unknown in any previous epoch of history. An interesting
+essay might be written upon points upon which nations affect more vices
+than they possess; and it might deal more fully with the American
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>pressman, who is a harmless clubman in private, and becomes a sort of
+highway-robber in print.</p>
+
+<p>I have turned this chapter into something like a defence of
+interviewers, because I really think they are made to bear too much of
+the burden of the bad developments of modern journalism. But I am very
+far from meaning to suggest that those bad developments are not very
+bad. So far from wishing to minimise the evil, I would in a real sense
+rather magnify it. I would suggest that the evil itself is a much larger
+and more fundamental thing; and that to deal with it by abusing poor
+journalists, doing their particular and perhaps peculiar duty, is like
+dealing with a pestilence by rubbing at one of the spots. What is wrong
+with the modern world will not be righted by attributing the whole
+disease to each of its symptoms in turn; first to the tavern and then to
+the cinema and then to the reporter's room. The evil of journalism is
+not in the journalists. It is not in the poor men on the lower level of
+the profession, but in the rich men at the top of the profession; or
+rather in the rich men who are too much on top of the profession even to
+belong to it. The trouble with newspapers is the Newspaper Trust, as the
+trouble might be with a Wheat Trust, without involving a vilification of
+all the people who grow wheat. It is the American plutocracy and not the
+American press. What is the matter with the modern world is not modern
+headlines or modern films or modern machinery. What is the matter with
+the modern world is the modern world; and the cure will come from
+another.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Some_American_Cities" id="Some_American_Cities"></a><i>Some American Cities</i></h2>
+
+<p>There is one point, almost to be called a paradox, to be noted about New
+York; and that is that in one sense it is really new. The term very
+seldom has any relevance to the reality. The New Forest is nearly as old
+as the Conquest, and the New Theology is nearly as old as the Creed.
+Things have been offered to me as the new thought that might more
+properly be called the old thoughtlessness; and the thing we call the
+New Poor Law is already old enough to know better. But there is a sense
+in which New York is always new; in the sense that it is always being
+renewed. A stranger might well say that the chief industry of the
+citizens consists of destroying their city; but he soon realises that
+they always start it all over again with undiminished energy and hope.
+At first I had a fancy that they never quite finished putting up a big
+building without feeling that it was time to pull it down again; and
+that somebody began to dig up the first foundations while somebody else
+was putting on the last tiles. This fills the whole of this brilliant
+and bewildering place with a quite unique and unparalleled air of rapid
+ruin. Ruins spring up so suddenly like mushrooms, which with us are the
+growth of age like mosses, that one half expects to see ivy climbing
+quickly up the broken walls as in the nightmare of the Time Machine, or
+in some incredibly accelerated cinema.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p><p>There is no sight in any country that raises my own spirits so much as
+a scaffolding. It is a tragedy that they always take the scaffolding
+away, and leave us nothing but a mere building. If they would only take
+the building away and leave us a beautiful scaffolding, it would in most
+cases be a gain to the loveliness of earth. If I could analyse what it
+is that lifts the heart about the lightness and clarity of such a white
+and wooden skeleton, I could explain what it is that is really charming
+about New York; in spite of its suffering from the curse of
+cosmopolitanism and even the provincial superstition of progress. It is
+partly that all this destruction and reconstruction is an unexhausted
+artistic energy; but it is partly also that it is an artistic energy
+that does not take itself too seriously. It is first because man is here
+a carpenter; and secondly because he is a stage carpenter. Indeed there
+is about the whole scene the spirit of scene-shifting. It therefore
+touches whatever nerve in us has since childhood thrilled at all
+theatrical things. But the picture will be imperfect unless we realise
+something which gives it unity and marks its chief difference from the
+climate and colours of Western Europe. We may say that the back-scene
+remains the same. The sky remained, and in the depths of winter it
+seemed to be blue with summer; and so clear that I almost flattered
+myself that clouds were English products like primroses. An American
+would probably retort on my charge of scene-shifting by saying that at
+least he only shifted the towers and domes of the earth; and that in
+England it is the heavens that are shifty. And indeed we have changes
+from day to day that would seem to him as distinct as different
+magic-lantern slides; one view showing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> Bay of Naples and the next
+the North Pole. I do not mean, of course, that there are no changes in
+American weather; but as a matter of proportion it is true that the most
+unstable part of our scenery is the most stable part of theirs. Indeed
+we might almost be pardoned the boast that Britain alone really
+possesses the noble thing called weather; most other countries having to
+be content with climate. It must be confessed, however, that they often
+are content with it. And the beauty of New York, which is considerable,
+is very largely due to the clarity that brings out the colours of varied
+buildings against the equal colour of the sky. Strangely enough I found
+myself repeating about this vista of the West two vivid lines in which
+Mr. W. B. Yeats has called up a vision of the East:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>And coloured like the eastern birds</div>
+<div>At evening in their rainless skies.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>To invoke a somewhat less poetic parallel, even the untravelled
+Englishman has probably seen American posters and trade advertisements
+of a patchy and gaudy kind, in which a white house or a yellow motor-car
+are cut out as in cardboard against a sky like blue marble. I used to
+think it was only New Art, but I found that it is really New York.</p>
+
+<p>It is not for nothing that the very nature of local character has gained
+the nickname of local colour. Colour runs through all our experience;
+and we all know that our childhood found talismanic gems in the very
+paints in the paint-box, or even in their very names. And just as the
+very name of 'crimson lake' really suggested to me some sanguine and
+mysterious mere, dark yet red as blood, so the very name of 'burnt
+sienna' became afterwards tangled up in my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> mind with the notion of
+something traditional and tragic; as if some such golden Italian city
+had really been darkened by many conflagrations in the wars of mediaeval
+democracy. Now if one had the caprice of conceiving some city exactly
+contrary to one thus seared and seasoned by fire, its colour might be
+called up to a childish fancy by the mere name of 'raw umber'; and such
+a city is New York. I used to be puzzled by the name of 'raw umber,'
+being unable to imagine the effect of fried umber or stewed umber. But
+the colours of New York are exactly in that key; and might be adumbrated
+by phrases like raw pink or raw yellow. It is really in a sense like
+something uncooked; or something which the satiric would call
+half-baked. And yet the effect is not only beautiful, it is even
+delicate. I had no name for this nuance; until I saw that somebody had
+written of 'the pastel-tinted towers of New York'; and I knew that the
+name had been found. There are no paints dry enough to describe all that
+dry light; and it is not a box of colours but of crayons. If the
+Englishman returning to England is moved at the sight of a block of
+white chalk, the American sees rather a bundle of chalks. Nor can I
+imagine anything more moving. Fairy tales are told to children about a
+country where the trees are like sugar-sticks and the lakes like
+treacle, but most children would feel almost as greedy for a fairyland
+where the trees were like brushes of green paint and the hills were of
+coloured chalks.</p>
+
+<p>But here what accentuates this arid freshness is the fragmentary look of
+the continual reconstruction and change. The strong daylight finds
+everywhere the broken edges of things, and the sort of hues we see<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> in
+newly-turned earth or the white sections of trees. And it is in this
+respect that the local colour can literally be taken as local character.
+For New York considered in itself is primarily a place of unrest, and
+those who sincerely love it, as many do, love it for the romance of its
+restlessness. A man almost looks at a building as he passes to wonder
+whether it will be there when he comes back from his walk; and the doubt
+is part of an indescribable notion, as of a white nightmare of daylight,
+which is increased by the very numbering of the streets, with its tangle
+of numerals which at first makes an English head reel. The detail is
+merely a symbol; and when he is used to it he can see that it is, like
+the most humdrum human customs, both worse and better than his own. '271
+West 52nd Street' is the easiest of all addresses to find, but the
+hardest of all addresses to remember. He who is, like myself, so
+constituted as necessarily to lose any piece of paper he has particular
+reason to preserve, will find himself wishing the place were called
+'Pine Crest' or 'Heather Crag' like any unobtrusive villa in Streatham.
+But his sense of some sort of incalculable calculations, as of the
+vision of a mad mathematician, is rooted in a more real impression. His
+first feeling that his head is turning round is due to something really
+dizzy in the movement of a life that turns dizzily like a wheel. If
+there be in the modern mind something paradoxical that can find peace in
+change, it is here that it has indeed built its habitation or rather is
+still building and unbuilding it. One might fancy that it changes in
+everything and that nothing endures but its invisible name; and even its
+name, as I have said, seems to make a boast of novelty.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p><p>That is something like a sincere first impression of the atmosphere of
+New York. Those who think that is the atmosphere of America have never
+got any farther than New York. We might almost say that they have never
+entered America, any more than if they had been detained like
+undesirable aliens at Ellis Island. And indeed there are a good many
+undesirable aliens detained in Manhattan Island too. But of that I will
+not speak, being myself an alien with no particular pretensions to be
+desirable. Anyhow, such is New York; but such is not the New World. The
+great American Republic contains very considerable varieties, and of
+these varieties I necessarily saw far too little to allow me to
+generalise. But from the little I did see, I should venture on the
+generalisation that the great part of America is singularly and even
+strikingly unlike New York. It goes without saying that New York is very
+unlike the vast agricultural plains and small agricultural towns of the
+Middle West, which I did see. It may be conjectured with some confidence
+that it is very unlike what is called the Wild and sometimes the Woolly
+West, which I did not see. But I am here comparing New York, not with
+the newer states of the prairie or the mountains, but with the other
+older cities of the Atlantic coast. And New York, as it seems to me, is
+quite vitally different from the other historic cities of America. It is
+so different that it shows them all for the moment in a false light, as
+a long white searchlight will throw a light that is fantastic and
+theatrical upon ancient and quiet villages folded in the everlasting
+hills. Philadelphia and Boston and Baltimore are more like those quiet
+villages than they are like New York.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p><p>If I were to call this book 'The Antiquities of America,' I should give
+rise to misunderstanding and possibly to annoyance. And yet the double
+sense in such words is an undeserved misfortune for them. We talk of
+Plato or the Parthenon or the Greek passion for beauty as parts of the
+antique, but hardly of the antiquated. When we call them ancient it is
+not because they have perished, but rather because they have survived.
+In the same way I heard some New Yorkers refer to Philadelphia or
+Baltimore as 'dead towns.' They mean by a dead town a town that has had
+the impudence not to die. Such people are astonished to find an ancient
+thing alive, just as they are now astonished, and will be increasingly
+astonished, to find Poland or the Papacy or the French nation still
+alive. And what I mean by Philadelphia and Baltimore being alive is
+precisely what these people mean by their being dead; it is continuity;
+it is the presence of the life first breathed into them and of the
+purpose of their being; it is the benediction of the founders of the
+colonies and the fathers of the republic. This tradition is truly to be
+called life; for life alone can link the past and the future. It merely
+means that as what was done yesterday makes some difference to-day, so
+what is done to-day will make some difference to-morrow. In New York it
+is difficult to feel that any day will make any difference. These
+moderns only die daily without power to rise from the dead. But I can
+truly claim that in coming into some of these more stable cities of the
+States I felt something quite sincerely of that historic emotion which
+is satisfied in the eternal cities of the Mediterranean. I felt in
+America what many Americans suppose can only be felt in Europe. I have
+seldom had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> that sentiment stirred more simply and directly than when I
+saw from afar off, above the vast grey labyrinth of Philadelphia, great
+Penn upon his pinnacle like the graven figure of a god who had fashioned
+a new world; and remembered that his body lay buried in a field at the
+turning of a lane, a league from my own door.</p>
+
+<p>For this aspect of America is rather neglected in the talk about
+electricity and headlines. Needless to say, the modern vulgarity of
+avarice and advertisement sprawls all over Philadelphia or Boston; but
+so it does over Winchester or Canterbury. But most people know that
+there is something else to be found in Canterbury or Winchester; many
+people know that it is rather more interesting; and some people know
+that Alfred can still walk in Winchester and that St. Thomas at
+Canterbury was killed but did not die. It is at least as possible for a
+Philadelphian to feel the presence of Penn and Franklin as for an
+Englishman to see the ghosts of Alfred and of Becket. Tradition does not
+mean a dead town; it does not mean that the living are dead but that the
+dead are alive. It means that it still matters what Penn did two hundred
+years ago or what Franklin did a hundred years ago; I never could feel
+in New York that it mattered what anybody did an hour ago. And these
+things did and do matter. Quakerism is not my favourite creed; but on
+that day when William Penn stood unarmed upon that spot and made his
+treaty with the Red Indians, his creed of humanity did have a triumph
+and a triumph that has not turned back. The praise given to him is not a
+priggish fiction of our conventional history, though such fictions have
+illogically curtailed it. The Nonconformists have been rather unfair to
+Penn even<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> in picking their praises; and they generally forget that
+toleration cuts both ways and that an open mind is open on all sides.
+Those who deify him for consenting to bargain with the savages cannot
+forgive him for consenting to bargain with the Stuarts. And the same is
+true of the other city, yet more closely connected with the tolerant
+experiment of the Stuarts. The state of Maryland was the first
+experiment in religious freedom in human history. Lord Baltimore and his
+Catholics were a long march ahead of William Penn and his Quakers on
+what is now called the path of progress. That the first religious
+toleration ever granted in the world was granted by Roman Catholics is
+one of those little informing details with which our Victorian histories
+did not exactly teem. But when I went into my hotel at Baltimore and
+found two priests waiting to see me, I was moved in a new fashion, for I
+felt that I touched the end of a living chain. Nor was the impression
+accidental; it will always remain with me with a mixture of gratitude
+and grief, for they brought a message of welcome from a great American
+whose name I had known from childhood and whose career was drawing to
+its close; for it was but a few days after I left the city that I
+learned that Cardinal Gibbons was dead.</p>
+
+<p>On the top of a hill on one side of the town stood the first monument
+raised after the Revolution to Washington. Beyond it was a new monument
+saluting in the name of Lafayette the American soldiers who fell
+fighting in France in the Great War. Between them were steps and stone
+seats, and I sat down on one of them and talked to two children who were
+clambering about the bases of the monument. I felt a profound and
+radiant peace in the thought that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> at any rate were not going to my
+lecture. It made me happy that in that talk neither they nor I had any
+names. I was full of that indescribable waking vision of the strangeness
+of life, and especially of the strangeness of locality; of how we find
+places and lose them; and see faces for a moment in a far-off land, and
+it is equally mysterious if we remember and mysterious if we forget. I
+had even stirring in my head the suggestion of some verses that I shall
+never finish&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>If I ever go back to Baltimore</div>
+<div>The city of Maryland.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But the poem would have to contain far too much; for I was thinking of a
+thousand things at once; and wondering what the children would be like
+twenty years after and whether they would travel in white goods or be
+interested in oil, and I was not untouched (it may be said) by the fact
+that a neighbouring shop had provided the only sample of the substance
+called 'tea' ever found on the American continent; and in front of me
+soared up into the sky on wings of stone the column of all those high
+hopes of humanity a hundred years ago; and beyond there were lighted
+candles in the chapels and prayers in the ante-chambers, where perhaps
+already a Prince of the Church was dying. Only on a later page can I
+even attempt to comb out such a tangle of contrasts, which is indeed the
+tangle of America and this mortal life; but sitting there on that stone
+seat under that quiet sky, I had some experience of the thronging
+thousands of living thoughts and things, noisy and numberless as birds,
+that give its everlasting vivacity and vitality to a dead town.</p>
+
+<p>Two other cities I visited which have this particular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> type of
+traditional character, the one being typical of the North and the other
+of the South. At least I may take as convenient anti-types the towns of
+Boston and St. Louis; and we might add Nashville as being a shade more
+truly southern than St. Louis. To the extreme South, in the sense of
+what is called the Black Belt, I never went at all. Now English
+travellers expect the South to be somewhat traditional; but they are not
+prepared for the aspects of Boston in the North which are even more so.
+If we wished only for an antic of antithesis, we might say that on one
+side the places are more prosaic than the names and on the other the
+names are more prosaic than the places. St. Louis is a fine town, and we
+recognise a fine instinct of the imagination that set on the hill
+overlooking the river the statue of that holy horseman who has
+christened the city. But the city is not as beautiful as its name; it
+could not be. Indeed these titles set up a standard to which the most
+splendid spires and turrets could not rise, and below which the
+commercial chimneys and sky-signs conspicuously sink. We should think it
+odd if Belfast had borne the name of Joan of Arc. We should be slightly
+shocked if the town of Johannesburg happened to be called Jesus Christ.
+But few have noted a blasphemy, or even a somewhat challenging
+benediction, to be found in the very name of San Francisco.</p>
+
+<p>But on the other hand a place like Boston is much more beautiful than
+its name. And, as I have suggested, an Englishman's general information,
+or lack of information, leaves him in some ignorance of the type of
+beauty that turns up in that type of place. He has heard so much about
+the purely commercial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> North as against the agricultural and
+aristocratic South, and the traditions of Boston and Philadelphia are
+rather too tenuous and delicate to be seen from across the Atlantic. But
+here also there are traditions and a great deal of traditionalism. The
+circle of old families, which still meets with a certain exclusiveness
+in Philadelphia, is the sort of thing that we in England should expect
+to find rather in New Orleans. The academic aristocracy of Boston, which
+Oliver Wendell Holmes called the Brahmins, is still a reality though it
+was always a minority and is now a very small minority. An epigram,
+invented by Yale at the expense of Harvard, describes it as very small
+indeed:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>Here is to jolly old Boston, the home of the bean and the cod,</div>
+<div>Where Cabots speak only to Lowells, and Lowells speak only to God.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But an aristocracy must be a minority, and it is arguable that the
+smaller it is the better. I am bound to say, however, that the
+distinguished Dr. Cabot, the present representative of the family, broke
+through any taboo that may tie his affections to his Creator and to Miss
+Amy Lowell, and broadened his sympathies so indiscriminately as to show
+kindness and hospitality to so lost a being as an English lecturer. But
+if the thing is hardly a limit it is very living as a memory; and Boston
+on this side is very much a place of memories. It would be paying it a
+very poor compliment merely to say that parts of it reminded me of
+England; for indeed they reminded me of English things that have largely
+vanished from England. There are old brown houses in the corners of
+squares and streets that are like glimpses of a man's forgotten
+childhood; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> when I saw the long path with posts where the Autocrat
+may be supposed to have walked with the schoolmistress, I felt I had
+come to the land where old tales come true.</p>
+
+<p>I pause in this place upon this particular aspect of America because it
+is very much missed in a mere contrast with England. I need not say that
+if I felt it even about slight figures of fiction, I felt it even more
+about solid figures of history. Such ghosts seemed particularly solid in
+the Southern States, precisely because of the comparative quietude and
+leisure of the atmosphere of the South. It was never more vivid to me
+than when coming in, at a quiet hour of the night, into the
+comparatively quiet hotel at Nashville in Tennessee, and mounting to a
+dim and deserted upper floor where I found myself before a faded
+picture; and from the dark canvas looked forth the face of Andrew
+Jackson, watchful like a white eagle.</p>
+
+<p>At that moment, perhaps, I was in more than one sense alone. Most
+Englishmen know a good deal of American fiction, and nothing whatever of
+American history. They know more about the autocrat of the
+breakfast-table than about the autocrat of the army and the people, the
+one great democratic despot of modern times; the Napoleon of the New
+World. The only notion the English public ever got about American
+politics they got from a novel, <i>Uncle Tom's Cabin</i>; and to say the
+least of it, it was no exception to the prevalence of fiction over fact.
+Hundreds of us have heard of Tom Sawyer for one who has heard of Charles
+Sumner; and it is probable that most of us could pass a more detailed
+examination about Toddy and Budge than about Lincoln and Lee. But in
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> case of Andrew Jackson it may be that I felt a special sense of
+individual isolation; for I believe that there are even fewer among
+Englishmen than among Americans who realise that the energy of that
+great man was largely directed towards saving us from the chief evil
+which destroys the nations to-day. He sought to cut down, as with a
+sword of simplicity, the new and nameless enormity of finance; and he
+must have known, as by a lightning flash, that the people were behind
+him, because all the politicians were against him. The end of that
+struggle is not yet; but if the bank is stronger than the sword or the
+sceptre of popular sovereignty, the end will be the end of democracy. It
+will have to choose between accepting an acknowledged dictator and
+accepting dictation which it dare not acknowledge. The process will have
+begun by giving power to people and refusing to give them their titles;
+and it will have ended by giving the power to people who refuse to give
+us their names.</p>
+
+<p>But I have a special reason for ending this chapter on the name of the
+great popular dictator who made war on the politicians and the
+financiers. This chapter does not profess to touch on one in twenty of
+the interesting cities of America, even in this particular aspect of
+their relation to the history of America, which is so much neglected in
+England. If that were so, there would be a great deal to say even about
+the newest of them; Chicago, for instance, is certainly something more
+than the mere pork-packing yard that English tradition suggests; and it
+has been building a boulevard not unworthy of its splendid position on
+its splendid lake. But all these cities are defiled and even diseased
+with industrialism. It is due to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> Americans to remember that they
+have deliberately preserved one of their cities from such defilement and
+such disease. And that is the presidential city, which stands in the
+American mind for the same ideal as the President; the idea of the
+Republic that rises above modern money-getting and endures. There has
+really been an effort to keep the White House white. No factories are
+allowed in that town; no more than the necessary shops are tolerated. It
+is a beautiful city; and really retains something of that classical
+serenity of the eighteenth century in which the Fathers of the Republic
+moved. With all respect to the colonial place of that name, I do not
+suppose that Wellington is particularly like Wellington. But Washington
+really is like Washington.</p>
+
+<p>In this, as in so many things, there is no harm in our criticising
+foreigners, if only we would also criticise ourselves. In other words,
+the world might need even less of its new charity, if it had a little
+more of the old humility. When we complain of American individualism, we
+forget that we have fostered it by ourselves having far less of this
+impersonal ideal of the Republic or commonwealth as a whole. When we
+complain, very justly, for instance, of great pictures passing into the
+possession of American magnates, we ought to remember that we paved the
+way for it by allowing them all to accumulate in the possession of
+English magnates. It is bad that a public treasure should be in the
+possession of a private man in America, but we took the first step in
+lightly letting it disappear into the private collection of a man in
+England. I know all about the genuine national tradition which treated
+the aristocracy as constituting the state; but these very foreign
+purchases go to prove that we ought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> to have had a state independent of
+the aristocracy. It is true that rich Americans do sometimes covet the
+monuments of our culture in a fashion that rightly revolts us as vulgar
+and irrational. They are said sometimes to want to take whole buildings
+away with them; and too many of such buildings are private and for sale.
+There were wilder stories of a millionaire wishing to transplant
+Glastonbury Abbey and similar buildings as if they were portable shrubs
+in pots. It is obvious that it is nonsense as well as vandalism to
+separate Glastonbury Abbey from Glastonbury. I can understand a man
+venerating it as a ruin; and I can understand a man despising it as a
+rubbish-heap. But it is senseless to insult a thing in order to
+idolatrise it; it is meaningless to desecrate the shrine in order to
+worship the stones. That sort of thing is the bad side of American
+appetite and ambition; and we are perfectly right to see it not only as
+a deliberate blasphemy but as an unconscious buffoonery. But there is
+another side to the American tradition, which is really too much lacking
+in our own tradition. And it is illustrated in this idea of preserving
+Washington as a sort of paradise of impersonal politics without personal
+commerce. Nobody could buy the White House or the Washington Monument;
+it may be hinted (as by an inhabitant of Glastonbury) that nobody wants
+to; but nobody could if he did want to. There is really a certain air of
+serenity and security about the place, lacking in every other American
+town. It is increased, of course, by the clear blue skies of that
+half-southern province, from which smoke has been banished. The effect
+is not so much in the mere buildings, though they are classical and
+often beautiful. But whatever else they have built, they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> have built a
+great blue dome, the largest dome in the world. And the place does
+express something in the inconsistent idealism of this strange people;
+and here at least they have lifted it higher than all the sky-scrapers,
+and set it in a stainless sky.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="In_the_American_Country" id="In_the_American_Country"></a><i>In the American Country</i></h2>
+
+<p>The sharpest pleasure of a traveller is in finding the things which he
+did not expect, but which he might have expected to expect. I mean the
+things that are at once so strange and so obvious that they must have
+been noticed, yet somehow they have not been noted. Thus I had heard a
+thousand things about Jerusalem before I ever saw it; I had heard
+rhapsodies and disparagements of every description. Modern rationalistic
+critics, with characteristic consistency, had blamed it for its
+accumulated rubbish and its modern restoration, for its antiquated
+superstition and its up-to-date vulgarity. But somehow the one
+impression that had never pierced through their description was the
+simple and single impression of a city on a hill, with walls coming to
+the very edge of slopes that were almost as steep as walls; the turreted
+city which crowns a cone-shaped hill in so many mediaeval landscapes.
+One would suppose that this was at once the plainest and most
+picturesque of all the facts; yet somehow, in my reading, I had always
+lost it amid a mass of minor facts that were merely details. We know
+that a city that is set upon a hill cannot be hid; and yet it would seem
+that it is exactly the hill that is hid; though perhaps it is only hid
+from the wise and the understanding. I had a similar and simple
+impression when I discovered America. I cannot avoid the phrase; for it
+would really seem that each man discovers it for himself.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p><p>Thus I had heard a great deal, before I saw them, about the tall and
+dominant buildings of New York. I agree that they have an instant effect
+on the imagination; which I think is increased by the situation in which
+they stand, and out of which they arose. They are all the more
+impressive because the building, while it is vertically so vast, is
+horizontally almost narrow. New York is an island, and has all the
+intensive romance of an island. It is a thing of almost infinite height
+upon very finite foundations. It is almost like a lofty lighthouse upon
+a lonely rock. But this story of the sky-scrapers, which I had often
+heard, would by itself give a curiously false impression of the freshest
+and most curious characteristic of American architecture. Told only in
+terms of these great towers of stone and brick in the big industrial
+cities, the story would tend too much to an impression of something cold
+and colossal like the monuments of Asia. It would suggest a modern
+Babylon altogether too Babylonian. It would imply that a man of the new
+world was a sort of new Pharaoh, who built not so much a pyramid as a
+pagoda of pyramids. It would suggest houses built by mammoths out of
+mountains; the cities reared by elephants in their own elephantine
+school of architecture. And New York does recall the most famous of all
+sky-scrapers&mdash;the tower of Babel. She recalls it none the less because
+there is no doubt about the confusion of tongues. But in truth the very
+reverse is true of most of the buildings in America. I had no sooner
+passed out into the suburbs of New York on the way to Boston than I
+began to see something else quite contrary and far more curious. I saw
+forests upon forests of small houses stretching away to the horizon as
+literal forests do; villages and towns<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> and cities. And they were, in
+another sense, literally like forests. They were all made of wood. It
+was almost as fantastic to an English eye as if they had been all made
+of cardboard. I had long outlived the silly old joke that referred to
+Americans as if they all lived in the backwoods. But, in a sense, if
+they do not live in the woods, they are not yet out of the wood.</p>
+
+<p>I do not say this in any sense as a criticism. As it happens, I am
+particularly fond of wood. Of all the superstitions which our fathers
+took lightly enough to love, the most natural seems to me the notion it
+is lucky to touch wood. Some of them affect me the less as
+superstitions, because I feel them as symbols. If humanity had really
+thought Friday unlucky it would have talked about bad Friday instead of
+good Friday. And while I feel the thrill of thirteen at a table, I am
+not so sure that it is the most miserable of all human fates to fill the
+places of the Twelve Apostles. But the idea that there was something
+cleansing or wholesome about the touching of wood seems to me one of
+those ideas which are truly popular, because they are truly poetic. It
+is probable enough that the conception came originally from the healing
+of the wood of the Cross; but that only clinches the divine coincidence.
+It is like that other divine coincidence that the Victim was a
+carpenter, who might almost have made His own cross. Whether we take the
+mystical or the mythical explanation, there is obviously a very deep
+connection between the human working in wood and such plain and pathetic
+mysticism. It gives something like a touch of the holy childishness to
+the tale, as if that terrible engine could be a toy. In the same fashion
+a child fancies that mysterious and sinister horse, which was the
+downfall of Troy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> as something plain and staring, and perhaps spotted,
+like his own rocking-horse in the nursery.</p>
+
+<p>It might be said symbolically that Americans have a taste for
+rocking-horses, as they certainly have a taste for rocking-chairs. A
+flippant critic might suggest that they select rocking-chairs so that,
+even when they are sitting down, they need not be sitting still.
+Something of this restlessness in the race may really be involved in the
+matter; but I think the deeper significance of the rocking-chair may
+still be found in the deeper symbolism of the rocking-horse. I think
+there is behind all this fresh and facile use of wood a certain spirit
+that is childish in the good sense of the word; something that is
+innocent, and easily pleased. It is not altogether untrue, still less is
+it unfriendly, to say that the landscape seems to be dotted with dolls'
+houses. It is the true tragedy of every fallen son of Adam that he has
+grown too big to live in a doll's house. These things seem somehow to
+escape the irony of time by not even challenging it; they are too
+temporary even to be merely temporal. These people are not building
+tombs; they are not, as in the fine image of Mrs. Meynell's poem, merely
+building ruins. It is not easy to imagine the ruins of a doll's house;
+and that is why a doll's house is an everlasting habitation. How far it
+promises a political permanence is a matter for further discussion; I am
+only describing the mood of discovery; in which all these cottages built
+of lath, like the palaces of a pantomime, really seemed coloured like
+the clouds of morning; which are both fugitive and eternal.</p>
+
+<p>There is also in all this an atmosphere that comes in another sense from
+the nursery. We hear much of Americans being educated on English
+literature; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> I think few Americans realise how much English children
+have been educated on American literature. It is true, and it is
+inevitable, that they can only be educated on rather old-fashioned
+American literature. Mr. Bernard Shaw, in one of his plays, noted truly
+the limitations of the young American millionaire, and especially the
+staleness of his English culture; but there is necessarily another side
+to it. If the American talked more of Macaulay than of Nietzsche, we
+should probably talk more of Emerson than of Ezra Pound. Whether this
+staleness is necessarily a disadvantage is, of course, a different
+question. But, in any case, it is true that the old American books were
+often the books of our childhood, even in the literal sense of the books
+of our nursery. I know few men in England who have not left their
+boyhood to some extent lost and entangled in the forests of <i>Huckleberry
+Finn</i>. I know few women in England, from the most revolutionary
+Suffragette to the most carefully preserved Early Victorian, who will
+not confess to having passed a happy childhood with the Little Women of
+Miss Alcott. <i>Helen's Babies</i> was the first and by far the best book in
+the modern scriptures of baby-worship. And about all this old-fashioned
+American literature there was an undefinable savour that satisfied, and
+even fed, our growing minds. Perhaps it was the smell of growing things;
+but I am far from certain that it was not simply the smell of wood. Now
+that all the memory comes back to me, it seems to come back heavy in a
+hundred forms with the fragrance and the touch of timber. There was the
+perpetual reference to the wood-pile, the perpetual background of the
+woods. There was something crude and clean about everything; something
+fresh and strange about those <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>far-off houses, to which I could not then
+have put a name. Indeed, many things become clear in this wilderness of
+wood, which could only be expressed in symbol and even in fantasy. I
+will not go so far as to say that it shortened the transition from Log
+Cabin to White House; as if the White House were itself made of white
+wood (as Oliver Wendell Holmes said), 'that cuts like cheese, but lasts
+like iron for things like these.' But I will say that the experience
+illuminates some other lines by Holmes himself:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>Little I ask, my wants are few,</div>
+<div>I only ask a hut of stone.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>I should not have known, in England, that he was already asking for a
+good deal even in asking for that. In the presence of this wooden world
+the very combination of words seems almost a contradiction, like a hut
+of marble, or a hovel of gold.</p>
+
+<p>It was therefore with an almost infantile pleasure that I looked at all
+this promising expansion of fresh-cut timber and thought of the housing
+shortage at home. I know not by what incongruous movement of the mind
+there swept across me, at the same moment, the thought of things
+ancestral and hoary with the light of ancient dawns. The last war
+brought back body-armour; the next war may bring back bows and arrows.
+And I suddenly had a memory of old wooden houses in London; and a model
+of Shakespeare's town.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible indeed that such Elizabethan memories may receive a check
+or a chill when the traveller comes, as he sometimes does, to the
+outskirts of one of these strange hamlets of new frame-houses, and is
+confronted with a placard inscribed in enormous letters, 'Watch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> Us
+Grow.' He can always imagine that he sees the timbers swelling before
+his eyes like pumpkins in some super-tropical summer. But he may have
+formed the conviction that no such proclamation could be found outside
+Shakespeare's town. And indeed there is a serious criticism here, to any
+one who knows history; since the things that grow are not always the
+things that remain; and pumpkins of that expansiveness have a tendency
+to burst. I was always told that Americans were harsh, hustling, rather
+rude and perhaps vulgar; but they were very practical and the future
+belonged to them. I confess I felt a fine shade of difference; I liked
+the Americans; I thought they were sympathetic, imaginative, and full of
+fine enthusiasms; the one thing I could not always feel clear about was
+their future. I believe they were happier in their frame-houses than
+most people in most houses; having democracy, good education, and a
+hobby of work; the one doubt that did float across me was something
+like, 'Will all this be here at all in two hundred years?' That was the
+first impression produced by the wooden houses that seemed like the
+waggons of gipsies; it is a serious impression, but there is an answer
+to it. It is an answer that opens on the traveller more and more as he
+goes westward, and finds the little towns dotted about the vast central
+prairies. And the answer is agriculture. Wooden houses may or may not
+last; but farms will last; and farming will always last.</p>
+
+<p>The houses may look like gipsy caravans on a heath or common; but they
+are not on a heath or common. They are on the most productive and
+prosperous land, perhaps, in the modern world. The houses might fall
+down like shanties, but the fields would remain; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> whoever tills
+those fields will count for a great deal in the affairs of humanity.
+They are already counting for a great deal, and possibly for too much,
+in the affairs of America. The real criticism of the Middle West is
+concerned with two facts, neither of which has been yet adequately
+appreciated by the educated class in England. The first is that the turn
+of the world has come, and the turn of the agricultural countries with
+it. That is the meaning of the resurrection of Ireland; that is the
+meaning of the practical surrender of the Bolshevist Jews to the Russian
+peasants. The other is that in most places these peasant societies carry
+on what may be called the Catholic tradition. The Middle West is perhaps
+the one considerable place where they still carry on the Puritan
+tradition. But the Puritan tradition was originally a tradition of the
+town; and the second truth about the Middle West turns largely on its
+moral relation to the town. As I shall suggest presently, there is much
+in common between this agricultural society of America and the great
+agricultural societies of Europe. It tends, as the agricultural society
+nearly always does, to some decent degree of democracy. The agricultural
+society tends to the agrarian law. But in Puritan America there is an
+additional problem, which I can hardly explain without a periphrasis.</p>
+
+<p>There was a time when the progress of the cities seemed to mock the
+decay of the country. It is more and more true, I think, to-day that it
+is rather the decay of the cities that seems to poison the progress and
+promise of the countryside. The cinema boasts of being a substitute for
+the tavern, but I think it a very bad substitute. I think so quite apart
+from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> question about fermented liquor. Nobody enjoys cinemas more
+than I, but to enjoy them a man has only to look and not even to listen,
+and in a tavern he has to talk. Occasionally, I admit, he has to fight;
+but he need never move at the movies. Thus in the real village inn are
+the real village politics, while in the other are only the remote and
+unreal metropolitan politics. And those central city politics are not
+only cosmopolitan politics but corrupt politics. They corrupt everything
+that they reach, and this is the real point about many perplexing
+questions.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, so far as I am concerned, it is the whole point about
+feminism and the factory. It is very largely the point about feminism
+and many other callings, apparently more cultured than the factory, such
+as the law court and the political platform. When I see women so wildly
+anxious to tie themselves to all this machinery of the modern city my
+first feeling is not indignation, but that dark and ominous sort of pity
+with which we should see a crowd rushing to embark in a leaking ship
+under a lowering storm. When I see wives and mothers going in for
+business government I not only regard it as a bad business but as a
+bankrupt business. It seems to me very much as if the peasant women,
+just before the French Revolution, had insisted on being made duchesses
+or (as is quite as logical and likely) on being made dukes.</p>
+
+<p>It is as if those ragged women, instead of crying out for bread, had
+cried out for powder and patches. By the time they were wearing them
+they would be the only people wearing them. For powder and patches soon
+went out of fashion, but bread does not go out of fashion. In the same
+way, if women desert the family for the factory, they may find they have
+only done it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> for a deserted factory. It would have been very unwise of
+the lower orders to claim all the privileges of the higher orders in the
+last days of the French monarchy. It would have been very laborious to
+learn the science of heraldry or the tables of precedence when all such
+things were at once most complicated and most moribund. It would be
+tiresome to be taught all those tricks just when the whole bag of tricks
+was coming to an end. A French satirist might have written a fine
+apologue about Jacques Bonhomme coming up to Paris in his wooden shoes
+and demanding to be made Gold Stick in Waiting in the name of Liberty,
+Equality, and Fraternity; but I fear the stick in waiting would be
+waiting still.</p>
+
+<p>One of the first topics on which I heard conversation turning in America
+was that of a very interesting book called <i>Main Street</i>, which involves
+many of these questions of the modern industrial and the eternal
+feminine. It is simply the story, or perhaps rather the study than the
+story, of a young married woman in one of the multitudinous little towns
+on the great central plains of America; and of a sort of struggle
+between her own more restless culture and the provincial prosperity of
+her neighbours. There are a number of true and telling suggestions in
+the book, but the one touch which I found tingling in the memory of many
+readers was the last sentence, in which the master of the house, with
+unshaken simplicity, merely asks for the whereabouts of some domestic
+implement; I think it was a screw-driver. It seems to me a harmless
+request, but from the way people talked about it one might suppose he
+had asked for a screw-driver to screw down the wife in her coffin. And a
+great many advanced persons would tell us that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> wooden house in which
+she lived really was like a wooden coffin. But this appears to me to be
+taking a somewhat funereal view of the life of humanity.</p>
+
+<p>For, after all, on the face of it at any rate, this is merely the life
+of humanity, and even the life which all humanitarians have striven to
+give to humanity. Revolutionists have treated it not only as the normal
+but even as the ideal. Revolutionary wars have been waged to establish
+this; revolutionary heroes have fought, and revolutionary martyrs have
+died, only to build such a wooden house for such a worthy family. Men
+have taken the sword and perished by the sword in order that the poor
+gentleman might have liberty to look for his screw-driver. For there is
+here a fact about America that is almost entirely unknown in England.
+The English have not in the least realised the real strength of America.
+We in England hear a great deal, we hear far too much, about the
+economic energy of industrial America, about the money of Mr. Morgan, or
+the machinery of Mr. Edison. We never realise that while we in England
+suffer from the same sort of successes in capitalism and clockwork, we
+have not got what the Americans have got; something at least to balance
+it in the way of a free agriculture, a vast field of free farms dotted
+with small freeholders. For the reason I shall mention in a moment, they
+are not perhaps in the fullest and finest sense a peasantry. But they
+are in the practical and political sense a pure peasantry, in that their
+comparative equality is a true counterweight to the toppling injustice
+of the towns.</p>
+
+<p>And, even in places like that described as Main Street, that comparative
+equality can immediately be felt. The men may be provincials, but they
+are certainly citizens; they consult on a common basis. And<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> I repeat
+that in this, after all, they do achieve what many prophets and
+righteous men have died to achieve. This plain village, fairly
+prosperous, fairly equal, untaxed by tyrants and untroubled by wars, is
+after all the place which reformers have regarded as their aim; whenever
+reformers have used their wits sufficiently to have any aim. The march
+to Utopia, the march to the Earthly Paradise, the march to the New
+Jerusalem, has been very largely the march to Main Street. And the
+latest modern sensation is a book written to show how wretched it is to
+live there.</p>
+
+<p>All this is true, and I think the lady might be more contented in her
+coffin, which is more comfortably furnished than most of the coffins
+where her fellow creatures live. Nevertheless, there is an answer to
+this, or at least a modification of it. There is a case for the lady and
+a case against the gentleman and the screw-driver. And when we have
+noted what it really is, we have noted the real disadvantage in a
+situation like that of modern America, and especially the Middle West.
+And with that we come back to the truth with which I started this
+speculation; the truth that few have yet realised, but of which I, for
+one, am more and more convinced&mdash;that industrialism is spreading because
+it is decaying; that only the dust and ashes of its dissolution are
+choking up the growth of natural things everywhere and turning the green
+world grey.</p>
+
+<p>In this relative agricultural equality the Americans of the Middle West
+are far in advance of the English of the twentieth century. It is not
+their fault if they are still some centuries behind the English of the
+twelfth century. But the defect by which they fall short of being a true
+peasantry is that they do not produce<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> their own spiritual food, in the
+same sense as their own material food. They do not, like some
+peasantries, create other kinds of culture besides the kind called
+agriculture. Their culture comes from the great cities; and that is
+where all the evil comes from.</p>
+
+<p>If a man had gone across England in the Middle Ages, or even across
+Europe in more recent times, he would have found a culture which showed
+its vitality by its variety. We know the adventures of the three
+brothers in the old fairy tales who passed across the endless plain from
+city to city, and found one kingdom ruled by a wizard and another wasted
+by a dragon, one people living in castles of crystal and another sitting
+by fountains of wine. These are but legendary enlargements of the real
+adventures of a traveller passing from one patch of peasantry to
+another, and finding women wearing strange head-dresses and men singing
+new songs.</p>
+
+<p>A traveller in America would be somewhat surprised if he found the
+people in the city of St. Louis all wearing crowns and crusading armour
+in honour of their patron saint. He might even feel some faint surprise
+if he found all the citizens of Philadelphia clad in a composite
+costume, combining that of a Quaker with that of a Red Indian, in honour
+of the noble treaty of William Penn. Yet these are the sort of local and
+traditional things that would really be found giving variety to the
+valleys of mediaeval Europe. I myself felt a perfectly genuine and
+generous exhilaration of freedom and fresh enterprise in new places like
+Oklahoma. But you would hardly find in Oklahoma what was found in
+Oberammergau. What goes to Oklahoma is not the peasant play, but the
+cinema. And the objection to the cinema is not so much that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> it goes to
+Oklahoma as that it does not come from Oklahoma. In other words, these
+people have on the economic side a much closer approach than we have to
+economic freedom. It is not for us, who have allowed our land to be
+stolen by squires and then vulgarised by sham squires, to sneer at such
+colonists as merely crude and prosaic. They at least have really kept
+something of the simplicity and, therefore, the dignity of democracy;
+and that democracy may yet save their country even from the calamities
+of wealth and science.</p>
+
+<p>But, while these farmers do not need to become industrial in order to
+become industrious, they do tend to become industrial in so far as they
+become intellectual. Their culture, and to some great extent their
+creed, do come along the railroads from the great modern urban centres,
+and bring with them a blast of death and a reek of rotting things. It is
+that influence that alone prevents the Middle West from progressing
+towards the Middle Ages.</p>
+
+<p>For, after all, linked up in a hundred legends of the Middle Ages, may
+be found a symbolic pattern of hammers and nails and saws; and there is
+no reason why they should not have also sanctified screw-drivers. There
+is no reason why the screw-driver that seemed such a trifle to the
+author should not have been borne in triumph down Main Street like a
+sword of state, in some pageant of the Guild of St. Joseph of the
+Carpenters or St. Dunstan of the Smiths. It was the Catholic poetry and
+piety that filled common life with something that is lacking in the
+worthy and virile democracy of the West. Nor are Americans of
+intelligence so ignorant of this as some may suppose. There is an
+admirable society called the Mediaevalists in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> Chicago; whose name and
+address will strike many as suggesting a certain struggle of the soul
+against the environment. With the national heartiness they blazon their
+note-paper with heraldry and the hues of Gothic windows; with the
+national high spirits they assume the fancy dress of friars; but any one
+who should essay to laugh at them instead of with them would find out
+his mistake. For many of them do really know a great deal about
+mediaevalism; much more than I do, or most other men brought up on an
+island that is crowded with its cathedrals. Something of the same spirit
+may be seen in the beautiful new plans and buildings of Yale,
+deliberately modelled not on classical harmony but on Gothic
+irregularity and surprise. The grace and energy of the mediaeval
+architecture resurrected by a man like Mr. R. A. Cram of Boston has
+behind it not merely artistic but historical and ethical enthusiasm; an
+enthusiasm for the Catholic creed which made mediaeval civilisation.
+Even on the huge Puritan plains of the Middle West the influence strays
+in the strangest fashion. And it is notable that among the pessimistic
+epitaphs of the Spoon River Anthology, in that churchyard compared with
+which most churchyards are cheery, among the suicides and secret
+drinkers and monomaniacs and hideous hypocrites of that happy village,
+almost the only record of respect and a recognition of wider hopes is
+dedicated to the Catholic priest.</p>
+
+<p>But Main Street is Main Street in the main. Main Street is Modern Street
+in its multiplicity of mildly half-educated people; and all these
+historic things are a thousand miles from them. They have not heard the
+ancient noise either of arts or arms; the building of the cathedral or
+the marching of the crusade. But<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> at least they have not deliberately
+slandered the crusade and defaced the cathedral. And if they have not
+produced the peasant arts, they can still produce the peasant crafts.
+They can sow and plough and reap and live by these everlasting things;
+nor shall the foundations of their state be moved. And the memory of
+those colossal fields, of those fruitful deserts, came back the more
+readily into my mind because I finished these reflections in the very
+heart of a modern industrial city, if it can be said to have a heart. It
+was in fact an English industrial city, but it struck me that it might
+very well be an American one. And it also struck me that we yield rather
+too easily to America the dusty palm of industrial enterprise, and feel
+far too little apprehension about greener and fresher vegetables. There
+is a story of an American who carefully studied all the sights of London
+or Rome or Paris, and came to the conclusion that 'it had nothing on
+Minneapolis.' It seems to me that Minneapolis has nothing on Manchester.
+There were the same grey vistas of shops full of rubber tyres and
+metallic appliances; a man felt that he might walk a day without seeing
+a blade of grass; the whole horizon was so infinite with efficiency. The
+factory chimneys might have been Pittsburg; the sky-signs might have
+been New York. One looked up in a sort of despair at the sky, not for a
+sky-sign but in a sense for a sign, for some sentence of significance
+and judgment; by the instinct that makes any man in such a scene seek
+for the only thing that has not been made by men. But even that was
+illogical, for it was night, and I could only expect to see the stars,
+which might have reminded me of Old Glory; but that was not the sign
+that oppressed me. All the ground was a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> wilderness of stone and all the
+buildings a forest of brick; I was far in the interior of a labyrinth of
+lifeless things. Only, looking up, between two black chimneys and a
+telegraph pole, I saw vast and far and faint, as the first men saw it,
+the silver pattern of the Plough.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_American_Business_Man" id="The_American_Business_Man"></a><i>The American Business Man</i></h2>
+
+<p>It is a commonplace that men are all agreed in using symbols, and all
+differ about the meaning of the symbols. It is obvious that a Russian
+republican might come to identify the eagle as a bird of empire and
+therefore a bird of prey. But when he ultimately escaped to the land of
+the free, he might find the same bird on the American coinage figuring
+as a bird of freedom. Doubtless, he might find many other things to
+surprise him in the land of the free, and many calculated to make him
+think that the bird, if not imperial, was at least rather imperious. But
+I am not discussing those exceptional details here. It is equally
+obvious that a Russian reactionary might cross the world with a vow of
+vengeance against the red flag. But that authoritarian might have some
+difficulties with the authorities, if he shot a man for using the red
+flag on the railway between Willesden and Clapham Junction.</p>
+
+<p>But, of course, the difficulty about symbols is generally much more
+subtle than in these simple cases. I have remarked elsewhere that the
+first thing which a traveller should write about is the thing which he
+has not read about. It may be a small or secondary thing, but it is a
+thing that he has seen and not merely expected to see.</p>
+
+<p>I gave the example of the great multitude of wooden<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> houses in America;
+we might say of wooden towns and wooden cities. But after he has seen
+such things, his next duty is to see the meaning of them; and here a
+great deal of complication and controversy is possible. The thing
+probably does not mean what he first supposes it to mean on the face of
+it; but even on the face of it, it might mean many different and even
+opposite things.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, a wooden house might suggest an almost savage solitude; a
+rude shanty put together by a pioneer in a forest; or it might mean a
+very recent and rapid solution of the housing problem, conducted cheaply
+and therefore on a very large scale. A wooden house might suggest the
+very newest thing in America or one of the very oldest things in
+England. It might mean a grey ruin at Stratford or a white exhibition at
+Earl's Court.</p>
+
+<p>It is when we come to this interpretation of international symbols that
+we make most of the international mistakes. Without the smallest error
+of detail, I will promise to prove that Oriental women are independent
+because they wear trousers, or Oriental men subject because they wear
+skirts. Merely to apply it to this case, I will take the example of two
+very commonplace and trivial objects of modern life&mdash;a walking stick and
+a fur coat.</p>
+
+<p>As it happened, I travelled about America with two sticks, like a
+Japanese nobleman with his two swords. I fear the simile is too stately.
+I bore more resemblance to a cripple with two crutches or a highly
+ineffectual version of the devil on two sticks. I carried them both
+because I valued them both, and did not wish to risk losing either of
+them in my erratic travels. One is a very plain grey stick from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> the
+woods of Buckinghamshire, but as I took it with me to Palestine it
+partakes of the character of a pilgrim's staff. When I can say that I
+have taken the same stick to Jerusalem and to Chicago, I think the stick
+and I may both have a rest. The other, which I value even more, was
+given me by the Knights of Columbus at Yale, and I wish I could think
+that their chivalric title allowed me to regard it as a sword.</p>
+
+<p>Now, I do not know whether the Americans I met, struck by the fastidious
+foppery of my dress and appearance, concluded that it is the custom of
+elegant English dandies to carry two walking sticks. But I do know that
+it is much less common among Americans than among Englishmen to carry
+even one. The point, however, is not merely that more sticks are carried
+by Englishmen than by Americans; it is that the sticks which are carried
+by Americans stand for something entirely different.</p>
+
+<p>In America a stick is commonly called a cane, and it has about it
+something of the atmosphere which the poet described as the nice conduct
+of the clouded cane. It would be an exaggeration to say that when the
+citizens of the United States see a man carrying a light stick, they
+deduce that if he does that he does nothing else. But there is about it
+a faint flavour of luxury and lounging, and most of the energetic
+citizens of this energetic society avoid it by instinct.</p>
+
+<p>Now, in an Englishman like myself, carrying a stick may imply lounging,
+but it does not imply luxury, and I can say with some firmness that it
+does not imply dandyism. In a great many Englishmen it means the very
+opposite even of lounging. By one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> of those fantastic paradoxes which
+are the mystery of nationality, a walking stick often actually means
+walking. It frequently suggests the very reverse of the beau with his
+clouded cane; it does not suggest a town type, but rather specially a
+country type. It rather implies the kind of Englishman who tramps about
+in lanes and meadows and knocks the tops off thistles. It suggests the
+sort of man who has carried the stick through his native woods, and
+perhaps even cut it in his native woods.</p>
+
+<p>There are plenty of these vigorous loungers, no doubt, in the rural
+parts of America, but the idea of a walking stick would not especially
+suggest them to Americans; it would not call up such figures like a
+fairy wand. It would be easy to trace back the difference to many
+English origins, possibly to aristocratic origins, to the idea of the
+old squire, a man vigorous and even rustic, but trained to hold a
+useless staff rather than a useful tool. It might be suggested that
+American citizens do at least so far love freedom as to like to have
+their hands free. It might be suggested, on the other hand, that they
+keep their hands for the handles of many machines. And that the hand on
+a handle is less free than the hand on a stick or even a tool. But these
+again are controversial questions and I am only noting a fact.</p>
+
+<p>If an Englishman wished to imagine more or less exactly what the
+impression is, and how misleading it is, he could find something like a
+parallel in what he himself feels about a fur coat. When I first found
+myself among the crowds on the main floor of a New York hotel, my rather
+exaggerated impression of the luxury of the place was largely produced
+by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> number of men in fur coats, and what we should consider rather
+ostentatious fur coats, with all the fur outside.</p>
+
+<p>Now an Englishman has a number of atmospheric but largely accidental
+associations in connection with a fur coat. I will not say that he
+thinks a man in a fur coat must be a wealthy and wicked man; but I do
+say that in his own ideal and perfect vision a wealthy and wicked man
+would wear a fur coat. Thus I had the sensation of standing in a surging
+mob of American millionaires, or even African millionaires; for the
+millionaires of Chicago must be like the Knights of the Round Table
+compared with the millionaires of Johannesburg.</p>
+
+<p>But, as a matter of fact, the man in the fur coat was not even an
+American millionaire, but simply an American. It did not signify luxury,
+but rather necessity, and even a harsh and almost heroic necessity.
+Orson probably wore a fur coat; and he was brought up by bears, but not
+the bears of Wall Street. Eskimos are generally represented as a furry
+folk; but they are not necessarily engaged in delicate financial
+operations, even in the typical and appropriate occupation called
+freezing out. And if the American is not exactly an arctic traveller
+rushing from pole to pole, at least he is often literally fleeing from
+ice to ice. He has to make a very extreme distinction between outdoor
+and indoor clothing. He has to live in an icehouse outside and a
+hothouse inside; so hot that he may be said to construct an icehouse
+inside that. He turns himself into an icehouse and warms himself against
+the cold until he is warm enough to eat ices. But the point is that the
+same coat of fur which in England would indicate the sybarite life<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> may
+here very well indicate the strenuous life; just as the same walking
+stick which would here suggest a lounger would in England suggest a
+plodder and almost a pilgrim.</p>
+
+<p>And these two trifles are types which I should like to put, by way of
+proviso and apology, at the very beginning of any attempt at a record of
+any impressions of a foreign society. They serve merely to illustrate
+the most important impression of all, the impression of how false all
+impressions may be. I suspect that most of the very false impressions
+have come from the careful record of very true facts. They have come
+from the fatal power of observing the facts without being able to
+observe the truth. They came from seeing the symbol with the most vivid
+clarity and being blind to all that it symbolises. It is as if a man who
+knew no Greek should imagine that he could read a Greek inscription
+because he took the Greek R for an English P or the Greek long E for an
+English H. I do not mention this merely as a criticism on other people's
+impressions of America, but as a criticism on my own. I wish it to be
+understood that I am well aware that all my views are subject to this
+sort of potential criticism, and that even when I am certain of the
+facts I do not profess to be certain of the deductions.</p>
+
+<p>In this chapter I hope to point out how a misunderstanding of this kind
+affects the common impression, not altogether unfounded, that the
+Americans talk about dollars. But for the moment I am merely anxious to
+avoid a similar misunderstanding when I talk about Americans. About the
+dogmas of democracy, about the right of a people to its own symbols,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+whether they be coins or customs, I am convinced, and no longer to be
+shaken. But about the meaning of those symbols, in silver or other
+substances, I am always open to correction. That error is the price we
+pay for the great glory of nationality. And in this sense I am quite
+ready, at the start, to warn my own readers against my own opinions.</p>
+
+<p>The fact without the truth is futile; indeed the fact without the truth
+is false. I have already noted that this is especially true touching our
+observations of a strange country; and it is certainly true touching one
+small fact which has swelled into a large fable. I mean the fable about
+America commonly summed up in the phrase about the Almighty Dollar. I do
+not think the dollar is almighty in America; I fancy many things are
+mightier, including many ideals and some rather insane ideals. But I
+think it might be maintained that the dollar has another of the
+attributes of deity. If it is not omnipotent it is in a sense
+omnipresent. Whatever Americans think about dollars, it is, I think,
+relatively true that they talk about dollars. If a mere mechanical
+record could be taken by the modern machinery of dictaphones and
+stenography, I do not think it probable that the mere word 'dollars'
+would occur more often in any given number of American conversations
+than the mere word 'pounds' or 'shillings' in a similar number of
+English conversations. And these statistics, like nearly all statistics,
+would be utterly useless and even fundamentally false. It is as if we
+should calculate that the word 'elephant' had been mentioned a certain
+number of times in a particular London street, or so many times more
+often than the word 'thunderbolt' had been used in Stoke Poges.
+Doubtless there are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> statisticians capable of carefully collecting those
+statistics also; and doubtless there are scientific social reformers
+capable of legislating on the basis of them. They would probably argue
+from the elephantine imagery of the London street that such and such a
+percentage of the householders were megalomaniacs and required medical
+care and police coercion. And doubtless their calculations, like nearly
+all such calculations, would leave out the only important point; as that
+the street was in the immediate neighbourhood of the Zoo, or was yet
+more happily situated under the benignant shadow of the Elephant and
+Castle. And in the same way the mechanical calculation about the mention
+of dollars is entirely useless unless we have some moral understanding
+of why they are mentioned. It certainly does not mean merely a love of
+money; and if it did, a love of money may mean a great many very
+different and even contrary things. The love of money is very different
+in a peasant or in a pirate, in a miser or in a gambler, in a great
+financier or in a man doing some practical and productive work. Now this
+difference in the conversation of American and English business men
+arises, I think, from certain much deeper things in the American which
+are generally not understood by the Englishman. It also arises from much
+deeper things in the Englishman, of which the Englishman is even more
+ignorant.</p>
+
+<p>To begin with, I fancy that the American, quite apart from any love of
+money, has a great love of measurement. He will mention the exact size
+or weight of things, in a way which appears to us as irrelevant. It is
+as if we were to say that a man came to see us carrying three feet of
+walking stick<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> and four inches of cigar. It is so in cases that have no
+possible connection with any avarice or greed for gain. An American will
+praise the prodigal generosity of some other man in giving up his own
+estate for the good of the poor. But he will generally say that the
+philanthropist gave them a 200-acre park, where an Englishman would
+think it quite sufficient to say that he gave them a park. There is
+something about this precision which seems suitable to the American
+atmosphere; to the hard sunlight, and the cloudless skies, and the
+glittering detail of the architecture and the landscape; just as the
+vaguer English version is consonant to our mistier and more
+impressionist scenery. It is also connected perhaps with something more
+boyish about the younger civilisation; and corresponds to the passionate
+particularity with which a boy will distinguish the uniforms of
+regiments, the rigs of ships, or even the colours of tram tickets. It is
+a certain godlike appetite for things, as distinct from thoughts.</p>
+
+<p>But there is also, of course, a much deeper cause of the difference; and
+it can easily be deduced by noting the real nature of the difference
+itself. When two business men in a train are talking about dollars I am
+not so foolish as to expect them to be talking about the philosophy of
+St. Thomas Aquinas. But if they were two English business men I should
+not expect them to be talking about business. Probably it would be about
+some sport; and most probably some sport in which they themselves never
+dreamed of indulging. The approximate difference is that the American
+talks about his work and the Englishman about his holidays. His ideal is
+not labour but leisure. Like every other national characteristic, this
+is not primarily a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> point for praise or blame; in essence it involves
+neither and in effect it involves both. It is certainly connected with
+that snobbishness which is the great sin of English society. The
+Englishman does love to conceive himself as a sort of country gentleman;
+and his castles in the air are all castles in Scotland rather than in
+Spain. For, as an ideal, a Scotch castle is as English as a Welsh
+rarebit or an Irish stew. And if he talks less about money I fear it is
+sometimes because in one sense he thinks more of it. Money is a mystery
+in the old and literal sense of something too sacred for speech. Gold is
+a god; and like the god of some agnostics has no name and is worshipped
+only in his works. It is true in a sense that the English gentleman
+wishes to have enough money to be able to forget it. But it may be
+questioned whether he does entirely forget it. As against this weakness
+the American has succeeded, at the price of a great deal of crudity and
+clatter, in making general a very real respect for work. He has partly
+disenchanted the dangerous glamour of the gentleman, and in that sense
+has achieved some degree of democracy; which is the most difficult
+achievement in the world.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, there is a good side to the Englishman's day-dream of
+leisure, and one which the American spirit tends to miss. It may be
+expressed in the word 'holiday' or still better in the word 'hobby.' The
+Englishman, in his character of Robin Hood, really has got two strings
+to his bow. Indeed the Englishman really is well represented by Robin
+Hood; for there is always something about him that may literally be
+called outlawed, in the sense of being extra-legal or outside the rules.
+A <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>Frenchman said of Browning that his centre was not in the middle; and
+it may be said of many an Englishman that his heart is not where his
+treasure is. Browning expressed a very English sentiment when he said:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>I like to know a butcher paints,</div>
+<div>A baker rhymes for his pursuit,</div>
+<div>Candlestick-maker much acquaints</div>
+<div>His soul with song, or haply mute</div>
+<div>Blows out his brains upon the flute.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Stevenson touched on the same insular sentiment when he said that many
+men he knew, who were meat-salesmen to the outward eye, might in the
+life of contemplation sit with the saints. Now the extraordinary
+achievement of the American meat-salesman is that his poetic enthusiasm
+can really be for meat sales; not for money but for meat. An American
+commercial traveller asked me, with a religious fire in his eyes,
+whether I did not think that salesmanship could be an art. In England
+there are many salesmen who are sincerely fond of art; but seldom of the
+art of salesmanship. Art is with them a hobby; a thing of leisure and
+liberty. That is why the English traveller talks, if not of art, then of
+sport. That is why the two city men in the London train, if they are not
+talking about golf, may be talking about gardening. If they are not
+talking about dollars, or the equivalent of dollars, the reason lies
+much deeper than any superficial praise or blame touching the desire for
+wealth. In the English case, at least, it lies very deep in the English
+spirit. Many of the greatest English things have had this lighter and
+looser character of a hobby or a holiday experiment. Even a masterpiece
+has often been a by-product.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> The works of Shakespeare come out so
+casually that they can be attributed to the most improbable people; even
+to Bacon. The sonnets of Shakespeare are picked up afterwards as if out
+of a wastepaper basket. The immortality of Dr. Johnson does not rest on
+the written leaves he collected, but entirely on the words he wasted,
+the words he scattered to the winds. So great a thing as Pickwick is
+almost a kind of accident; it began as something secondary and grew into
+something primary and pre-eminent. It began with mere words written to
+illustrate somebody else's pictures; and swelled like an epic expanded
+from an epigram. It might almost be said that in the case of Pickwick
+the author began as the servant of the artist. But, as in the same story
+of Pickwick, the servant became greater than the master. This
+incalculable and accidental quality, like all national qualities, has
+its strength and weakness; but it does represent a certain reserve fund
+of interests in the Englishman's life; and distinguishes him from the
+other extreme type, of the millionaire who works till he drops, or who
+drops because he stops working. It is the great achievement of American
+civilisation that in that country it really is not cant to talk about
+the dignity of labour. There is something that might almost be called
+the sanctity of labour; but it is subject to the profound law that when
+anything less than the highest becomes a sanctity, it tends also to
+become a superstition. When the candlestick-maker does not blow out his
+brains upon the flute there is always a danger that he may blow them out
+somewhere else, owing to depressed conditions in the candlestick market.</p>
+
+<p>Now certainly one of the first impressions of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> America, or at any rate
+of New York, which is by no means the same thing as America, is that of
+a sort of mob of business men, behaving in many ways in a fashion very
+different from that of the swarms of London city men who go up every day
+to the city. They sit about in groups with Red-Indian gravity, as if
+passing the pipe of peace; though, in fact, most of them are smoking
+cigars and some of them are eating cigars. The latter strikes me as one
+of the most peculiar of transatlantic tastes, more peculiar than that of
+chewing gum. A man will sit for hours consuming a cigar as if it were a
+sugar-stick; but I should imagine it to be a very disagreeable
+sugar-stick. Why he attempts to enjoy a cigar without lighting it I do
+not know; whether it is a more economical way of carrying a mere symbol
+of commercial conversation; or whether something of the same queer
+outlandish morality that draws such a distinction between beer and
+ginger beer draws an equally ethical distinction between touching
+tobacco and lighting it. For the rest, it would be easy to make a merely
+external sketch full of things equally strange; for this can always be
+done in a strange country. I allow for the fact of all foreigners
+looking alike; but I fancy that all those hard-featured faces, with
+spectacles and shaven jaws, do look rather alike, because they all like
+to make their faces hard. And with the mention of their mental attitude
+we realise the futility of any such external sketch. Unless we can see
+that these are something more than men smoking cigars and talking about
+dollars we had much better not see them at all.</p>
+
+<p>It is customary to condemn the American as a materialist because of his
+worship of success. But<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> indeed this very worship, like any worship,
+even devil-worship, proves him rather a mystic than a materialist. The
+Frenchman who retires from business when he has money enough to drink
+his wine and eat his omelette in peace might much more plausibly be
+called a materialist by those who do not prefer to call him a man of
+sense. But Americans do worship success in the abstract, as a sort of
+ideal vision. They follow success rather than money; they follow money
+rather than meat and drink. If their national life in one sense is a
+perpetual game of poker, they are playing excitedly for chips or
+counters as well as for coins. And by the ultimate test of material
+enjoyment, like the enjoyment of an omelette, even a coin is itself a
+counter. The Yankee cannot eat chips as the Frenchman can eat chipped
+potatoes; but neither can he swallow red cents as the Frenchman swallows
+red wine. Thus when people say of a Yankee that he worships the dollar,
+they pay a compliment to his fine spirituality more true and delicate
+than they imagine. The dollar is an idol because it is an image; but it
+is an image of success and not of enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>That this romance is also a religion is shown in the fact that there is
+a queer sort of morality attached to it. The nearest parallel to it is
+something like the sense of honour in the old duelling days. There is
+not a material but a distinctly moral savour about the implied
+obligation to collect dollars or to collect chips. We hear too much in
+England of the phrase about 'making good'; for no sensible Englishman
+favours the needless interlarding of English with scraps of foreign
+languages. But though it means nothing in English, it means something
+very particular in American.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> There is a fine shade of distinction
+between succeeding and making good, precisely because there must always
+be a sort of ethical echo in the word good. America does vaguely feel a
+man making good as something analogous to a man being good or a man
+doing good. It is connected with his serious self-respect and his sense
+of being worthy of those he loves. Nor is this curious crude idealism
+wholly insincere even when it drives him to what some of us would call
+stealing; any more than the duellist's honour was insincere when it
+drove him to what some would call murder. A very clever American play
+which I once saw acted contained a complete working model of this
+morality. A girl was loyal to, but distressed by, her engagement to a
+young man on whom there was a sort of cloud of humiliation. The
+atmosphere was exactly what it would have been in England if he had been
+accused of cowardice or card-sharping. And there was nothing whatever
+the matter with the poor young man except that some rotten mine or other
+in Arizona had not 'made good.' Now in England we should either be below
+or above that ideal of good. If we were snobs, we should be content to
+know that he was a gentleman of good connections, perhaps too much
+accustomed to private means to be expected to be businesslike. If we
+were somewhat larger-minded people, we should know that he might be as
+wise as Socrates and as splendid as Bayard and yet be unfitted, perhaps
+one should say therefore be unfitted, for the dismal and dirty gambling
+of modern commerce. But whether we were snobbish enough to admire him
+for being an idler, or chivalrous enough to admire him for being an
+outlaw, in neither case should we ever really and in our hearts despise
+him<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> for being a failure. For it is this inner verdict of instinctive
+idealism that is the point at issue. Of course there is nothing new, or
+peculiar to the new world, about a man's engagement practically failing
+through his financial failure. An English girl might easily drop a man
+because he was poor, or she might stick to him faithfully and defiantly
+although he was poor. The point is that this girl was faithful but she
+was not defiant; that is, she was not proud. The whole psychology of the
+situation was that she shared the weird worldly idealism of her family,
+and it was wounded as her patriotism would have been wounded if he had
+betrayed his country. To do them justice, there was nothing to show that
+they would have had any real respect for a royal duke who had inherited
+millions; what the simple barbarians wanted was a man who could 'make
+good.' That the process of making good would probably drag him through
+the mire of everything bad, that he would make good by bluffing, lying,
+swindling, and grinding the faces of the poor, did not seem to trouble
+them in the least. Against this fanaticism there is this shadow of truth
+even in the fiction of aristocracy; that a gentleman may at least be
+allowed to be good without being bothered to make it.</p>
+
+<p>Another objection to the phrase about the almighty dollar is that it is
+an almighty phrase, and therefore an almighty nuisance. I mean that it
+is made to explain everything, and to explain everything much too well;
+that is, much too easily. It does not really help people to understand a
+foreign country; but it gives them the fatal illusion that they do
+understand it. Dollars stood for America as frogs stood for France;
+because it was necessary to connect particular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> foreigners with
+something, or it would be so easy to confuse a Moor with a Montenegrin
+or a Russian with a Red Indian. The only cure for this sort of satisfied
+familiarity is the shock of something really unfamiliar. When people can
+see nothing at all in American democracy except a Yankee running after a
+dollar, then the only thing to do is to trip them up as they run after
+the Yankee, or run away with their notion of the Yankee, by the obstacle
+of certain odd and obstinate facts that have no relation to that notion.
+And, as a matter of fact, there are a number of such obstacles to any
+such generalisation; a number of notable facts that have to be
+reconciled somehow to our previous notions. It does not matter for this
+purpose whether the facts are favourable or unfavourable, or whether the
+qualities are merits or defects; especially as we do not even understand
+them sufficiently to say which they are. The point is that we are
+brought to a pause, and compelled to attempt to understand them rather
+better than we do. We have found the one thing that we did not expect;
+and therefore the one thing that we cannot explain. And we are moved to
+an effort, probably an unsuccessful effort, to explain it.</p>
+
+<p>For instance, Americans are very unpunctual. That is the last thing that
+a critic expects who comes to condemn them for hustling and haggling and
+vulgar ambition. But it is almost the first fact that strikes the
+spectator on the spot. The chief difference between the humdrum English
+business man and the hustling American business man is that the hustling
+American business man is always late. Of course there is a great deal of
+difference between coming late and coming too late. But I noticed the
+fashion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> first in connection with my own lectures; touching which I
+could heartily recommend the habit of coming too late. I could easily
+understand a crowd of commercial Americans not coming to my lectures at
+all; but there was something odd about their coming in a crowd, and the
+crowd being expected to turn up some time after the appointed hour. The
+managers of these lectures (I continue to call them lectures out of
+courtesy to myself) often explained to me that it was quite useless to
+begin properly until about half an hour after time. Often people were
+still coming in three-quarters of an hour or even an hour after time.
+Not that I objected to that, as some lecturers are said to do; it seemed
+to me an agreeable break in the monotony; but as a characteristic of a
+people mostly engaged in practical business, it struck me as curious and
+interesting. I have grown accustomed to being the most unbusinesslike
+person in any given company; and it gave me a sort of dizzy exaltation
+to find I was not the most unpunctual person in that company. I was
+afterwards told by many Americans that my impression was quite correct;
+that American unpunctuality was really very prevalent, and extended to
+much more important things. But at least I was not content to lump this
+along with all sorts of contrary things that I did not happen to like,
+and call it America. I am not sure of what it really means, but I rather
+fancy that though it may seem the very reverse of the hustling, it has
+the same origin as the hustling. The American is not punctual because he
+is not punctilious. He is impulsive, and has an impulse to stay as well
+as an impulse to go. For, after all, punctuality belongs to the same
+order of ideas as punctuation; and there is no punctuation in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>telegrams. The order of clocks and set hours which English business has
+always observed is a good thing in its own way; indeed I think that in a
+larger sense it is better than the other way. But it is better because
+it is a protection against hustling, not a promotion of it. In other
+words, it is better because it is more civilised; as a great Venetian
+merchant prince clad in cloth of gold was more civilised; or an old
+English merchant drinking port in an oak-panelled room was more
+civilised; or a little French shopkeeper shutting up his shop to play
+dominoes is more civilised. And the reason is that the American has the
+romance of business and is monomaniac, while the Frenchman has the
+romance of life and is sane. But the romance of business really is a
+romance, and the Americans are really romantic about it. And that
+romance, though it revolves round pork or petrol, is really like a
+love-affair in this; that it involves not only rushing but also
+lingering.</p>
+
+<p>The American is too busy to have business habits. He is also too much in
+earnest to have business rules. If we wish to understand him, we must
+compare him not with the French shopkeeper when he plays dominoes, but
+with the same French shopkeeper when he works the guns or mans the
+trenches as a conscript soldier. Everybody used to the punctilious
+Prussian standard of uniform and parade has noticed the roughness and
+apparent laxity of the French soldier, the looseness of his clothes, the
+unsightliness of his heavy knapsack, in short his inferiority in every
+detail of the business of war except fighting. There he is much too
+swift to be smart. He is much too practical to be precise. By a strange
+illusion which can lift pork-packing almost to the level of patriotism,
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> American has the same free rhythm in his romance of business. He
+varies his conduct not to suit the clock but to suit the case. He gives
+more time to more important and less time to less important things; and
+he makes up his time-table as he goes along. Suppose he has three
+appointments; the first, let us say, is some mere trifle of erecting a
+tower twenty storeys high and exhibiting a sky-sign on the top of it;
+the second is a business discussion about the possibility of printing
+advertisements of soft drinks on the table-napkins at a restaurant; the
+third is attending a conference to decide how the populace can be
+prevented from using chewing-gum and the manufacturers can still manage
+to sell it. He will be content merely to glance at the sky-sign as he
+goes by in a trolley-car or an automobile; he will then settle down to
+the discussion with his partner about the table-napkins, each speaker
+indulging in long monologues in turn; a peculiarity of much American
+conversation. Now if in the middle of one of these monologues, he
+suddenly thinks that the vacant space of the waiter's shirt-front might
+also be utilised to advertise the Gee Whiz Ginger Champagne, he will
+instantly follow up the new idea in all its aspects and possibilities,
+in an even longer monologue; and will never think of looking at his
+watch while he is rapturously looking at his waiter. The consequence is
+that he will come late into the great social movement against
+chewing-gum, where an Englishman would probably have arrived at the
+proper hour. But though the Englishman's conduct is more proper, it need
+not be in all respects more practical. The Englishman's rules are better
+for the business of life, but not necessarily for the life of business.
+And it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> true that for many of these Americans business is the
+business of life. It is really also, as I have said, the romance of
+life. We shall admire or deplore this spirit, accordingly as we are glad
+to see trade irradiated with so much poetry, or sorry to see so much
+poetry wasted on trade. But it does make many people happy, like any
+other hobby; and one is disposed to add that it does fill their
+imaginations like any other delusion. For the true criticism of all this
+commercial romance would involve a criticism of this historic phase of
+commerce. These people are building on the sand, though it shines like
+gold, and for them like fairy gold; but the world will remember the
+legend about fairy gold. Half the financial operations they follow deal
+with things that do not even exist; for in that sense all finance is a
+fairy tale. Many of them are buying and selling things that do nothing
+but harm; but it does them good to buy and sell them. The claim of the
+romantic salesman is better justified than he realises. Business really
+is romance; for it is not reality.</p>
+
+<p>There is one real advantage that America has over England, largely due
+to its livelier and more impressionable ideal. America does not think
+that stupidity is practical. It does not think that ideas are merely
+destructive things. It does not think that a genius is only a person to
+be told to go away and blow his brains out; rather it would open all its
+machinery to the genius and beg him to blow his brains in. It might
+attempt to use a natural force like Blake or Shelley for very ignoble
+purposes; it would be quite capable of asking Blake to take his tiger
+and his golden lions round as a sort of Barnum's Show, or Shelley to
+hang his stars and haloed clouds among the lights<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> of Broadway. But it
+would not assume that a natural force is useless, any more than that
+Niagara is useless. And there is a very definite distinction here
+touching the intelligence of the trader, whatever we may think of either
+course touching the intelligence of the artist. It is one thing that
+Apollo should be employed by Admetus, although he is a god. It is quite
+another thing that Apollo should always be sacked by Admetus, because he
+is a god. Now in England, largely owing to the accident of a rivalry and
+therefore a comparison with France, there arose about the end of the
+eighteenth century an extraordinary notion that there was some sort of
+connection between dullness and success. What the Americans call a
+bonehead became what the English call a hard-headed man. The merchants
+of London evinced their contempt for the fantastic logicians of Paris by
+living in a permanent state of terror lest somebody should set the
+Thames on fire. In this as in much else it is much easier to understand
+the Americans if we connect them with the French who were their allies
+than with the English who were their enemies. There are a great many
+Franco-American resemblances which the practical Anglo-Saxons are of
+course too hard-headed (or boneheaded) to see. American history is
+haunted with the shadow of the Plebiscitary President; they have a
+tradition of classical architecture for public buildings. Their cities
+are planned upon the squares of Paris and not upon the labyrinth of
+London. They call their cities Corinth and Syracuse, as the French
+called their citizens Epaminondas and Timoleon. Their soldiers wore the
+French kepi; and they make coffee admirably, and do not make tea at all.
+But of all the French elements in America the most French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> is this real
+practicality. They know that at certain times the most businesslike of
+all qualities is 'l'audace, et encore de l'audace, et toujours de
+l'audace.' The publisher may induce the poet to do a pot-boiler; but the
+publisher would cheerfully allow the poet to set the Mississippi on
+fire, if it would boil his particular pot. It is not so much that
+Englishmen are stupid as that they are afraid of being clever; and it is
+not so much that Americans are clever as that they do not try to be any
+stupider than they are. The fire of French logic has burnt that out of
+America as it has burnt it out of Europe, and of almost every place
+except England. This is one of the few points on which English
+insularity really is a disadvantage. It is the fatal notion that the
+only sort of commonsense is to be found in compromise, and that the only
+sort of compromise is to be found in confusion. This must be clearly
+distinguished from the commonplace about the utilitarian world not
+rising to the invisible values of genius. Under this philosophy the
+utilitarian does not see the utility of genius, even when it is quite
+visible. He does not see it, not because he is a utilitarian, but
+because he is an idealist whose ideal is dullness. For some time the
+English aspired to be stupid, prayed and hoped with soaring spiritual
+ambition to be stupid. But with all their worship of success, they did
+not succeed in being stupid. The natural talents of a great and
+traditional nation were always breaking out in spite of them. In spite
+of the merchants of London, Turner did set the Thames on fire. In spite
+of our repeatedly explained preference for realism to romance, Europe
+persisted in resounding with the name of Byron. And just when we had
+made it perfectly clear to the French that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> we despised all their
+flamboyant tricks, that we were a plain prosaic people and there was no
+fantastic glory or chivalry about us, the very shaft we sent against
+them shone with the name of Nelson, a shooting and a falling star.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Presidents_and_Problems" id="Presidents_and_Problems"></a><i>Presidents and Problems</i></h2>
+
+<p>All good Americans wish to fight the representatives they have chosen.
+All good Englishmen wish to forget the representatives they have chosen.
+This difference, deep and perhaps ineradicable in the temperaments of
+the two peoples, explains a thousand things in their literature and
+their laws. The American national poet praised his people for their
+readiness 'to <i>rise</i> against the never-ending audacity of elected
+persons.' The English national anthem is content to say heartily, but
+almost hastily, 'Confound their politics,' and then more cheerfully, as
+if changing the subject, 'God Save the King.' For this is especially the
+secret of the monarch or chief magistrate in the two countries. They arm
+the President with the powers of a King, that he may be a nuisance in
+politics. We deprive the King even of the powers of a President, lest he
+should remind us of a politician. We desire to forget the never-ending
+audacity of elected persons; and with us therefore it really never does
+end. That is the practical objection to our own habit of changing the
+subject, instead of changing the ministry. The King, as the Irish wit
+observed, is not a subject; but in that sense the English crowned head
+is not a King. He is a popular figure intended to remind us of the
+England that politicians do not remember; the England of horses and
+ships and gardens and good fellowship. The Americans have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> no such
+purely social symbol; and it is rather the root than the result of this
+that their social luxury, and especially their sport, are a little
+lacking in humanity and humour. It is the American, much more than the
+Englishman, who takes his pleasures sadly, not to say savagely.</p>
+
+<p>The genuine popularity of constitutional monarchs, in parliamentary
+countries, can be explained by any practical example. Let us suppose
+that great social reform, The Compulsory Haircutting Act, has just begun
+to be enforced. The Compulsory Haircutting Act, as every good citizen
+knows, is a statute which permits any person to grow his hair to any
+length, in any wild or wonderful shape, so long as he is registered with
+a hairdresser who charges a shilling. But it imposes a universal
+close-shave (like that which is found so hygienic during a curative
+detention at Dartmoor) on all who are registered only with a barber who
+charges threepence. Thus, while the ornamental classes can continue to
+ornament the street with Piccadilly weepers or chin-beards if they
+choose, the working classes demonstrate the care with which the State
+protects them by going about in a fresher, cooler, and cleaner
+condition; a condition which has the further advantage of revealing at a
+glance that outline of the criminal skull, which is so common among
+them. The Compulsory Haircutting Act is thus in every way a compact and
+convenient example of all our current laws about education, sport,
+liquor and liberty in general. Well, the law has passed and the masses,
+insensible to its scientific value, are still murmuring against it. The
+ignorant peasant maiden is averse to so extreme a fashion of bobbing her
+hair; and does not see how she can even be a flapper with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> nothing to
+flap. Her father, his mind already poisoned by Bolshevists, begins to
+wonder who the devil does these things, and why. In proportion as he
+knows the world of to-day, he guesses that the real origin may be quite
+obscure, or the real motive quite corrupt. The pressure may have come
+from anybody who has gained power or money anyhow. It may come from the
+foreign millionaire who owns all the expensive hairdressing saloons; it
+may come from some swindler in the cutlery trade who has contracted to
+sell a million bad razors. Hence the poor man looks about him with
+suspicion in the street; knowing that the lowest sneak or the loudest
+snob he sees may be directing the government of his country. Anybody may
+have to do with politics; and this sort of thing is politics. Suddenly
+he catches sight of a crowd, stops, and begins wildly to cheer a
+carriage that is passing. The carriage contains the one person who has
+certainly not originated any great scientific reform. He is the only
+person in the commonwealth who is not allowed to cut off other people's
+hair, or to take away other people's liberties. He at least is kept out
+of politics; and men hold him up as they did an unspotted victim to
+appease the wrath of the gods. He is their King, and the only man they
+know is not their ruler. We need not be surprised that he is popular,
+knowing how they are ruled.</p>
+
+<p>The popularity of a President in America is exactly the opposite. The
+American Republic is the last mediaeval monarchy. It is intended that
+the President shall rule, and take all the risks of ruling. If the hair
+is cut he is the haircutter, the magistrate that bears not the razor in
+vain. All the popular Presidents, Jackson and Lincoln and Roosevelt,
+have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> acted as democratic despots, but emphatically not as
+constitutional monarchs. In short, the names have become curiously
+interchanged; and as a historical reality it is the President who ought
+to be called a King.</p>
+
+<p>But it is not only true that the President could correctly be called a
+King. It is also true that the King might correctly be called a
+President. We could hardly find a more exact description of him than to
+call him a President. What is expected in modern times of a modern
+constitutional monarch is emphatically that he should preside. We expect
+him to take the throne exactly as if he were taking the chair. The
+chairman does not move the motion or resolution, far less vote it; he is
+not supposed even to favour it. He is expected to please everybody by
+favouring nobody. The primary essentials of a President or Chairman are
+that he should be treated with ceremonial respect, that he should be
+popular in his personality and yet impersonal in his opinions, and that
+he should actually be a link between all the other persons by being
+different from all of them. This is exactly what is demanded of the
+constitutional monarch in modern times. It is exactly the opposite to
+the American position; in which the President does not preside at all.
+He moves; and the thing he moves may truly be called a motion; for the
+national idea is perpetual motion. Technically it is called a message;
+and might often actually be called a menace. Thus we may truly say that
+the King presides and the President reigns. Some would prefer to say
+that the President rules; and some Senators and members of Congress
+would prefer to say that he rebels. But there is no doubt that he moves;
+he does<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> not take the chair or even the stool, but rather the stump.</p>
+
+<p>Some people seem to suppose that the fall of President Wilson was a
+denial of this almost despotic ideal in America. As a matter of fact it
+was the strongest possible assertion of it. The idea is that the
+President shall take responsibility and risk; and responsibility means
+being blamed, and risk means the risk of being blamed. The theory is
+that things are done by the President; and if things go wrong, or are
+alleged to go wrong, it is the fault of the President. This does not
+invalidate, but rather ratifies the comparison with true monarchs such
+as the mediaeval monarchs. Constitutional princes are seldom deposed;
+but despots were often deposed. In the simpler races of sunnier lands,
+such as Turkey, they were commonly assassinated. Even in our own history
+a King often received the same respectful tribute to the responsibility
+and reality of his office. But King John was attacked because he was
+strong, not because he was weak. Richard the Second lost the crown
+because the crown was a trophy, not because it was a trifle. And
+President Wilson was deposed because he had used a power which is such,
+in its nature, that a man must use it at the risk of deposition. As a
+matter of fact, of course, it is easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+unpopularity, and still more easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+failure. There are a great many people in America who justify and
+applaud him; and what is yet more interesting, who justify him not on
+pacifist and idealistic, but on patriotic and even military grounds. It
+is especially insisted by some that his demonstration, which seemed
+futile as a threat against Mexico, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> a very far-sighted preparation
+for the threat against Prussia. But in so far as the democracy did
+disagree with him, it was but the occasional and inevitable result of
+the theory by which the despot has to anticipate the democracy.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the American King and the English President are the very opposite
+of each other; yet they are both the varied and very national
+indications of the same contemporary truth. It is the great weariness
+and contempt that have fallen upon common politics in both countries. It
+may be answered, with some show of truth, that the new American
+President represents a return to common politics; and that in that sense
+he marks a real rebuke to the last President and his more uncommon
+politics. And it is true that many who put Mr. Harding in power regard
+him as the symbol of something which they call normalcy; which may
+roughly be translated into English by the word normality. And by this
+they do mean, more or less, the return to the vague capitalist
+conservatism of the nineteenth century. They might call Mr. Harding a
+Victorian if they had ever lived under Victoria. Perhaps these people do
+entertain the extraordinary notion that the nineteenth century was
+normal. But there are very few who think so, and even they will not
+think so long. The blunder is the beginning of nearly all our present
+troubles. The nineteenth century was the very reverse of normal. It
+suffered a most unnatural strain in the combination of political
+equality in theory with extreme economic inequality in practice.
+Capitalism was not a normalcy but an abnormalcy. Property is normal, and
+is more normal in proportion as it is universal. Slavery may be normal
+and even natural, in the sense that a bad habit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> may be second nature.
+But Capitalism was never anything so human as a habit; we may say it was
+never anything so good as a bad habit. It was never a custom; for men
+never grew accustomed to it. It was never even conservative; for before
+it was even created wise men had realised that it could not be
+conserved. It was from the first a problem; and those who will not even
+admit the Capitalist problem deserve to get the Bolshevist solution. All
+things considered, I cannot say anything worse of them than that.</p>
+
+<p>The recent Presidential election preserved some trace of the old Party
+System of America; but its tradition has very nearly faded like that of
+the Party System of England. It is easy for an Englishman to confess
+that he never quite understood the American Party System. It would
+perhaps be more courageous in him, and more informing, to confess that
+he never really understood the British Party System. The planks in the
+two American platforms may easily be exhibited as very disconnected and
+ramshackle; but our own party was as much of a patchwork, and indeed I
+think even more so. Everybody knows that the two American factions were
+called 'Democrat' and 'Republican.' It does not at all cover the case to
+identify the former with Liberals and the latter with Conservatives. The
+Democrats are the party of the South and have some true tradition from
+the Southern aristocracy and the defence of Secession and State Rights.
+The Republicans rose in the North as the party of Lincoln, largely
+condemning slavery. But the Republicans are also the party of Tariffs,
+and are at least accused of being the party of Trusts. The Democrats are
+the party of Free Trade; and in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> the great movement of twenty years ago
+the party of Free Silver. The Democrats are also the party of the Irish;
+and the stones they throw at Trusts are retorted by stones thrown at
+Tammany. It is easy to see all these things as curiously sporadic and
+bewildering; but I am inclined to think that they are as a whole more
+coherent and rational than our own old division of Liberals and
+Conservatives. There is even more doubt nowadays about what is the
+connecting link between the different items in the old British party
+programmes. I have never been able to understand why being in favour of
+Protection should have anything to do with being opposed to Home Rule;
+especially as most of the people who were to receive Home Rule were
+themselves in favour of Protection. I could never see what giving people
+cheap bread had to do with forbidding them cheap beer; or why the party
+which sympathises with Ireland cannot sympathise with Poland. I cannot
+see why Liberals did not liberate public-houses or Conservatives
+conserve crofters. I do not understand the principle upon which the
+causes were selected on both sides; and I incline to think that it was
+with the impartial object of distributing nonsense equally on both
+sides. Heaven knows there is enough nonsense in American politics too;
+towering and tropical nonsense like a cyclone or an earthquake. But when
+all is said, I incline to think that there was more spiritual and
+atmospheric cohesion in the different parts of the American party than
+in those of the English party; and I think this unity was all the more
+real because it was more difficult to define. The Republican party
+originally stood for the triumph of the North, and the North stood for
+the nineteenth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> century; that is for the characteristic commercial
+expansion of the nineteenth century; for a firm faith in the profit and
+progress of its great and growing cities, its division of labour, its
+industrial science, and its evolutionary reform. The Democratic party
+stood more loosely for all the elements that doubted whether this
+development was democratic or was desirable; all that looked back to
+Jeffersonian idealism and the serene abstractions of the eighteenth
+century, or forward to Bryanite idealism and some simplified Utopia
+founded on grain rather than gold. Along with this went, not at all
+unnaturally, the last and lingering sentiment of the Southern squires,
+who remembered a more rural civilisation that seemed by comparison
+romantic. Along with this went, quite logically, the passions and the
+pathos of the Irish, themselves a rural civilisation, whose basis is a
+religion or what the nineteenth century tended to call a superstition.
+Above all, it was perfectly natural that this tone of thought should
+favour local liberties, and even a revolt on behalf of local liberties,
+and should distrust the huge machine of centralised power called the
+Union. In short, something very near the truth was said by a suicidally
+silly Republican orator, who was running Blaine for the Presidency, when
+he denounced the Democratic party as supported by 'Rome, rum, and
+rebellion.' They seem to me to be three excellent things in their place;
+and that is why I suspect that I should have belonged to the Democratic
+party, if I had been born in America when there was a Democratic party.
+But I fancy that by this time even this general distinction has become
+very dim. If I had been an American twenty years ago, in the time of the
+great Free Silver campaign,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> I should certainly never have hesitated for
+an instant about my sympathies or my side. My feelings would have been
+exactly those that are nobly expressed by Mr. Vachell Lindsay, in a poem
+bearing the characteristic title of 'Bryan, Bryan, Bryan, Bryan.' And,
+by the way, nobody can begin to sympathise with America whose soul does
+not to some extent begin to swing and dance to the drums and gongs of
+Mr. Vachell Lindsay's great orchestra; which has the note of his whole
+nation in this: that a refined person can revile it a hundred times over
+as violent and brazen and barbarous and absurd, but not as insincere;
+there is something in it, and that something is the soul of many million
+men. But the poet himself, in the political poem referred to, speaks of
+Bryan's fall over Free Silver as 'defeat of my boyhood, defeat of my
+dream'; and it is only too probable that the cause has fallen as well as
+the candidate. The William Jennings Bryan of later years is not the man
+whom I should have seen in my youth, with the visionary eyes of Mr.
+Vachell Lindsay. He has become a commonplace Pacifist, which is in its
+nature the very opposite of a revolutionist; for if men will fight
+rather than sacrifice humanity on a golden cross, it cannot be wrong for
+them to resist its being sacrificed to an iron cross. I came into very
+indirect contact with Mr. Bryan when I was in America, in a fashion that
+made me realise how hard it has become to recover the illusions of a
+Bryanite. I believe that my lecture agent was anxious to arrange a
+debate, and I threw out a sort of loose challenge to the effect that
+woman's suffrage had weakened the position of woman; and while I was
+away in the wilds of Oklahoma my lecture agent (a man of blood-curdling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>
+courage and enterprise) asked Mr. Bryan to debate with me. Now Mr. Bryan
+is one of the greatest orators of modern history, and there is no
+conceivable reason why he should trouble to debate with a wandering
+lecturer. But as a matter of fact he expressed himself in the most
+magnanimous and courteous terms about my personal position, but said (as
+I understood) that it would be improper to debate on female suffrage as
+it was already a part of the political system. And when I heard that, I
+could not help a sigh; for I recognised something that I knew only too
+well on the front benches of my own beloved land. The great and glorious
+demagogue had degenerated into a statesman. I had never expected for a
+moment that the great orator could be bothered to debate with me at all;
+but it had never occurred to me, as a general moral principle, that two
+educated men were for ever forbidden to talk sense about a particular
+topic, because a lot of other people had already voted on it. What is
+the matter with that attitude is the loss of the freedom of the mind.
+There can be no liberty of thought unless it is ready to unsettle what
+has recently been settled, as well as what has long been settled. We are
+perpetually being told in the papers that what is wanted is a strong man
+who will do things. What is wanted is a strong man who will undo things;
+and that will be a real test of strength.</p>
+
+<p>Anyhow, we could have believed, in the time of the Free Silver fight,
+that the Democratic party was democratic with a small d. In Mr. Wilson
+it was transfigured, his friends would say into a higher and his foes
+into a hazier thing. And the Republican reaction against him, even where
+it has been healthy,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> has also been hazy. In fact, it has been not so
+much the victory of a political party as a relapse into repose after
+certain political passions; and in that sense there is a truth in the
+strange phrase about normalcy; in the sense that there is nothing more
+normal than going to sleep. But an even larger truth is this; it is most
+likely that America is no longer concentrated on these faction fights at
+all, but is considering certain large problems upon which those factions
+hardly troubled to take sides. They are too large even to be classified
+as foreign policy distinct from domestic policy. They are so large as to
+be inside as well as outside the state. From an English standpoint the
+most obvious example is the Irish; for the Irish problem is not a
+British problem, but also an American problem. And this is true even of
+the great external enigma of Japan. The Japanese question may be a part
+of foreign policy for America, but it is a part of domestic policy for
+California. And the same is true of that other intense and intelligent
+Eastern people, the genius and limitations of which have troubled the
+world so much longer. What the Japs are in California, the Jews are in
+America. That is, they are a piece of foreign policy that has become
+imbedded in domestic policy; something which is found inside but still
+has to be regarded from the outside. On these great international
+matters I doubt if Americans got much guidance from their party system;
+especially as most of these questions have grown very recently and
+rapidly to enormous size. Men are left free to judge of them with fresh
+minds. And that is the truth in the statement that the Washington
+Conference has opened the gates of a new world.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p><p>On the relations to England and Ireland I will not attempt to dwell
+adequately here. I have already noted that my first interview was with
+an Irishman, and my first impression from that interview a vivid sense
+of the importance of Ireland in Anglo-American relations; and I have
+said something of the Irish problem, prematurely and out of its proper
+order, under the stress of that sense of urgency. Here I will only add
+two remarks about the two countries respectively. A great many British
+journalists have recently imagined that they were pouring oil upon the
+troubled waters, when they were rather pouring out oil to smooth the
+downward path; and to turn the broad road to destruction into a
+butter-slide. They seem to have no notion of what to do, except to say
+what they imagine the very stupidest of their readers would be pleased
+to hear, and conceal whatever the most intelligent of their readers
+would probably like to know. They therefore informed the public that
+'the majority of Americans' had abandoned all sympathy with Ireland,
+because of its alleged sympathy with Germany; and that this majority of
+Americans was now ardently in sympathy with its English brothers across
+the sea. Now to begin with, such critics have no notion of what they are
+saying when they talk about the majority of Americans. To anybody who
+has happened to look in, let us say, on the city of Omaha, Nebraska, the
+remark will have something enormous and overwhelming about it. It is
+like saying that the majority of the inhabitants of China would agree
+with the Chinese Ambassador in a preference for dining at the Savoy
+rather than the Ritz. There are millions and millions of people living
+in those great central plains of the North American<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> Continent of whom
+it would be nearer the truth to say that they have never heard of
+England, or of Ireland either, than to say that their first emotional
+movement is a desire to come to the rescue of either of them. It is
+perfectly true that the more monomaniac sort of Sinn Feiner might
+sometimes irritate this innocent and isolated American spirit by being
+pro-Irish. It is equally true that a traditional Bostonian or Virginian
+might irritate it by being pro-English. The only difference is that
+large numbers of pure Irishmen are scattered in those far places, and
+large numbers of pure Englishmen are not. But it is truest of all to say
+that neither England nor Ireland so much as crosses the mind of most of
+them once in six months. Painting up large notices of 'Watch Us Grow,'
+making money by farming with machinery, together with an occasional
+hold-up with six-shooters and photographs of a beautiful murderess or
+divorc&eacute;e, fill up the round of their good and happy lives, and fleet the
+time carelessly as in the golden age.</p>
+
+<p>But putting aside all this vast and distant democracy, which is the real
+'majority of Americans,' and confining ourselves to that older culture
+on the eastern coast which the critics probably had in mind, we shall
+find the case more comforting but not to be covered with cheap and false
+comfort. Now it is perfectly true that any Englishman coming to this
+eastern coast, as I did, finds himself not only most warmly welcomed as
+a guest, but most cordially complimented as an Englishman. Men recall
+with pride the branches of their family that belong to England or the
+English counties where they were rooted; and there are enthusiasms for
+English literature and history which are as spontaneous as patriotism<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+itself. Something of this may be put down to a certain promptitude and
+flexibility in all American kindness, which is never sufficiently stodgy
+to be called good nature. The Englishman does sometimes wonder whether
+if he had been a Russian, his hosts would not have remembered remote
+Russian aunts and uncles and disinterred a Muscovite great-grandmother;
+or whether if he had come from Iceland, they would not have known as
+much about Icelandic sagas and been as sympathetic about the absence of
+Icelandic snakes. But with a fair review of the proportions of the case
+he will dismiss this conjecture, and come to the conclusion that a
+number of educated Americans are very warmly and sincerely sympathetic
+with England.</p>
+
+<p>What I began to feel, with a certain creeping chill, was that they were
+only too sympathetic with England. The word sympathetic has sometimes
+rather a double sense. The impression I received was that all these
+chivalrous Southerners and men mellow with Bostonian memories were
+<i>rallying</i> to England. They were on the defensive; and it was poor old
+England that they were defending. Their attitude implied that somebody
+or something was leaving her undefended, or finding her indefensible.
+The burden of that hearty chorus was that England was not so black as
+she was painted; it seemed clear that somewhere or other she was being
+painted pretty black. But there was something else that made me
+uncomfortable; it was not only the sense of being somewhat boisterously
+forgiven; it was also something involving questions of power as well as
+morality. Then it seemed to me that a new sensation turned me hot and
+cold; and I felt something I have never before felt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> in a foreign land.
+Never had my father or my grandfather known that sensation; never during
+the great and complex and perhaps perilous expansion of our power and
+commerce in the last hundred years had an Englishman heard exactly that
+note in a human voice. England was being <i>pitied</i>. I, as an Englishman,
+was not only being pardoned but pitied. My country was beginning to be
+an object of compassion, like Poland or Spain. My first emotion, full of
+the mood and movement of a hundred years, was one of furious anger. But
+the anger has given place to anxiety; and the anxiety is not yet at an
+end.</p>
+
+<p>It is not my business here to expound my view of English politics, still
+less of European politics or the politics of the world; but to put down
+a few impressions of American travel. On many points of European
+politics the impression will be purely negative; I am sure that most
+Americans have no notion of the position of France or the position of
+Poland. But if English readers want the truth, I am sure this is the
+truth about their notion of the position of England. They are wondering,
+or those who are watching are wondering, whether the term of her success
+is come and she is going down the dark road after Prussia. Many are
+sorry if this is so; some are glad if it is so; but all are seriously
+considering the probability of its being so. And herein lay especially
+the horrible folly of our Black-and-Tan terrorism over the Irish people.
+I have noted that the newspapers told us that America had been chilled
+in its Irish sympathies by Irish detachment during the war. It is the
+painful truth that any advantage we might have had from this we
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>ourselves immediately proceeded to destroy. Ireland <i>might</i> have put
+herself wrong with America by her attitude about Belgium, if England had
+not instantly proceeded to put herself more wrong by her attitude
+towards Ireland. It is quite true that two blacks do not make a white;
+but you cannot send a black to reproach people with tolerating
+blackness; and this is quite as true when one is a Black Brunswicker and
+the other a Black-and-Tan. It is true that since then England has made
+surprisingly sweeping concessions; concessions so large as to increase
+the amazement that the refusal should have been so long. But
+unfortunately the combination of the two rather clinches the conception
+of our decline. If the concession had come before the terror, it would
+have looked like an attempt to emancipate, and would probably have
+succeeded. Coming so abruptly after the terror, it looked only like an
+attempt to tyrannise, and an attempt that failed. It was partly an
+inheritance from a stupid tradition, which tried to combine what it
+called firmness with what it called conciliation; as if when we made up
+our minds to soothe a man with a five-pound note, we always took care to
+undo our own action by giving him a kick as well. The English politician
+has often done that; though there is nothing to be said of such a fool,
+except that he has wasted a fiver. But in this case he gave the kick
+first, received a kicking in return, and <i>then</i> gave up the money; and
+it was hard for the bystanders to say anything except that he had been
+badly beaten. The combination and sequence of events seems almost as if
+it were arranged to suggest the dark and ominous parallel. The first
+action looked only too like the invasion of Belgium, and the second like
+the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>evacuation of Belgium. So that vast and silent crowd in the West
+looked at the British Empire, as men look at a great tower that has
+begun to lean. Thus it was that while I found real pleasure, I could not
+find unrelieved consolation in the sincere compliments paid to my
+country by so many cultivated Americans; their memories of homely
+corners of historic counties from which their fathers came, of the
+cathedral that dwarfs the town, or the inn at the turning of the road.
+There was something in their voices and the look in their eyes which
+from the first disturbed me. So I have heard good Englishmen, who died
+afterwards the death of soldiers, cry aloud in 1914, 'It seems
+impossible, of those jolly Bavarians!' or, 'I will never believe it,
+when I think of the time I had at Heidelberg!'</p>
+
+<p>But there are other things besides the parallel of Prussia or the
+problem of Ireland. The American press is much freer than our own; the
+American public is much more familiar with the discussion of corruption
+than our own; and it is much more conscious of the corruption of our
+politics than we are. Almost any man in America may speak of the Marconi
+Case; many a man in England does not even know what it means. Many
+imagine that it had something to do with the propriety of politicians
+speculating on the Stock Exchange. So that it means a great deal to
+Americans to say that one figure in that drama is ruling India and
+another is ruling Palestine. And this brings me to another problem,
+which is also dealt with much more openly in America than in England. I
+mention it here only because it is a perfect model of the
+misunderstandings in the modern world. If any one asks for an example
+of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> exactly how the important part of every story is left out, and even
+the part that is reported is not understood, he could hardly have a
+stronger case than the story of Henry Ford of Detroit.</p>
+
+<p>When I was in Detroit I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Ford, and it
+really was a pleasure. He is a man quite capable of views which I think
+silly to the point of insanity; but he is not the vulgar benevolent
+boss. It must be admitted that he is a millionaire; but he cannot really
+be convicted of being a philanthropist. He is not a man who merely wants
+to run people; it is rather his views that run him, and perhaps run away
+with him. He has a distinguished and sensitive face; he really invented
+things himself, unlike most men who profit by inventions; he is
+something of an artist and not a little of a fighter. A man of that type
+is always capable of being wildly wrong, especially in the sectarian
+atmosphere of America; and Mr. Ford has been wrong before and may be
+wrong now. He is chiefly known in England for a project which I think
+very preposterous; that of the Peace Ship, which came to Europe during
+the war. But he is not known in England at all in connection with a much
+more important campaign, which he has conducted much more recently and
+with much more success; a campaign against the Jews like one of the
+Anti-Semitic campaigns of the Continent. Now any one who knows anything
+of America knows exactly what the Peace Ship would be like. It was a
+national combination of imagination and ignorance, which has at least
+some of the beauty of innocence. Men living in those huge, hedgeless
+inland plains know nothing about frontiers or the tragedy of a fight for
+freedom;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> they know nothing of alarum and armaments or the peril of a
+high civilisation poised like a precious statue within reach of a mailed
+fist. They are accustomed to a cosmopolitan citizenship, in which men of
+all bloods mingle and in which men of all creeds are counted equal.
+Their highest moral boast is humanitarianism; their highest mental boast
+is enlightenment. In a word, they are the very last men in the world who
+would seem likely to pride themselves on a prejudice against the Jews.
+They have no religion in particular, except a sincere sentiment which
+they would call 'true Christianity,' and which specially forbids an
+attack on the Jews. They have a patriotism which prides itself on
+assimilating all types, including the Jews. Mr. Ford is a pure product
+of this pacific world, as was sufficiently proved by his pacifism. If a
+man of that sort has discovered that there is a Jewish problem, it is
+because there is a Jewish problem. It is certainly not because there is
+an Anti-Jewish prejudice. For if there had been any amount of such
+racial and religious prejudice, he would have been about the very last
+sort of man to have it. His particular part of the world would have been
+the very last place to produce it. We may well laugh at the Peace Ship,
+and its wild course and inevitable shipwreck; but remember that its very
+wildness was an attempt to sail as far as possible from the castle of
+Front-de-B&oelig;uf. Everything that made him Anti-War should have
+prevented him from being Anti-Semite. We may mock him for being mad on
+peace; but we cannot say that he was so mad on peace that he made war on
+Israel.</p>
+
+<p>It happened that, when I was in America, I had just published some
+studies on Palestine; and I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> besieged by Rabbis lamenting my
+'prejudice.' I pointed out that they would have got hold of the wrong
+word, even if they had not got hold of the wrong man. As a point of
+personal autobiography, I do not happen to be a man who dislikes Jews;
+though I believe that some men do. I have had Jews among my most
+intimate and faithful friends since my boyhood, and I hope to have them
+till I die. But even if I did have a dislike of Jews, it would be
+illogical to call that dislike a prejudice. Prejudice is a very lucid
+Latin word meaning the bias which a man has before he considers a case.
+I might be said to be prejudiced against a Hairy Ainu because of his
+name, for I have never been on terms of such intimacy with him as to
+correct my preconceptions. But if after moving about in the modern world
+and meeting Jews, knowing Jews, doing business with Jews, and reading
+and hearing about Jews, I came to the conclusion that I did not like
+Jews, my conclusion certainly would not be a prejudice. It would simply
+be an opinion; and one I should be perfectly entitled to hold; though as
+a matter of fact I do not hold it. No extravagance of hatred merely
+following on <i>experience</i> of Jews can properly be called a prejudice.</p>
+
+<p>Now the point is that this new American Anti-Semitism springs from
+experience and nothing but experience. There is no prejudice for it to
+spring from. Or rather the prejudice is all the other way. All the
+traditions of that democracy, and very creditable traditions too, are in
+favour of toleration and a sort of idealistic indifference. The
+sympathies in which these nineteenth-century people were reared were all
+against Front-de-B&oelig;uf and in favour of Rebecca. They inherited a
+prejudice against <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>Anti-Semitism; a prejudice of Anti-Anti-Semitism.
+These people of the plains have found the Jewish problem exactly as they
+might have struck oil; because it is <i>there</i>, and not even because they
+were looking for it. Their view of the problem, like their use of the
+oil, is not always satisfactory; and with parts of it I entirely
+disagree. But the point is that the thing which I call a problem, and
+others call a prejudice, has now appeared in broad daylight in a new
+country where there is no priestcraft, no feudalism, no ancient
+superstition to explain it. It has appeared because it <i>is</i> a problem;
+and those are the best friends of the Jews, including many of the Jews
+themselves, who are trying to find a solution. That is the meaning of
+the incident of Mr. Henry Ford of Detroit; and you will hardly hear an
+intelligible word about it in England.</p>
+
+<p>The talk of prejudice against the Japs is not unlike the talk of
+prejudice against the Jews. Only in this case our indifference has
+really the excuse of ignorance. We used to lecture the Russians for
+oppressing the Jews, before we heard the word Bolshevist and began to
+lecture them for being oppressed by the Jews. In the same way we have
+long lectured the Californians for oppressing the Japs, without allowing
+for the possibility of their foreseeing that the oppression may soon be
+the other way. As in the other case, it may be a persecution but it is
+not a prejudice. The Californians know more about the Japanese than we
+do; and our own colonists when they are placed in the same position
+generally say the same thing. I will not attempt to deal adequately here
+with the vast international and diplomatic problems which arise with the
+name of the new power in the Far East. It is possible that Japan, having
+imitated European<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> militarism, may imitate European pacifism. I cannot
+honestly pretend to know what the Japanese mean by the one any more than
+by the other. But when Englishmen, especially English Liberals like
+myself, take a superior and censorious attitude towards Americans and
+especially Californians, I am moved to make a final remark. When a
+considerable number of Englishmen talk of the grave contending claims of
+our friendship with Japan and our friendship with America, when they
+finally tend in a sort of summing up to dwell on the superior virtues of
+Japan, I may be permitted to make a single comment.</p>
+
+<p>We are perpetually boring the world and each other with talk about the
+bonds that bind us to America. We are perpetually crying aloud that
+England and America are very much alike, especially England. We are
+always insisting that the two are identical in all the things in which
+they most obviously differ. We are always saying that both stand for
+democracy, when we should not consent to stand their democracy for half
+a day. We are always saying that at least we are all Anglo-Saxons, when
+we are descended from Romans and Normans and Britons and Danes, and they
+are descended from Irishmen and Italians and Slavs and Germans. We tell
+a people whose very existence is a revolt against the British Crown that
+they are passionately devoted to the British Constitution. We tell a
+nation whose whole policy has been isolation and independence that with
+us she can bear safely the White Man's Burden of universal empire. We
+tell a continent crowded with Irishmen to thank God that the Saxon can
+always rule the Celt. We tell a populace whose very virtues are lawless
+that together we uphold the Reign of Law. We recognise<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> our own
+law-abiding character in people who make laws that neither they nor
+anybody else can abide. We congratulate them on clinging to all they
+have cast away, and on imitating everything which they came into
+existence to insult. And when we have established all these nonsensical
+analogies with a nonexistent nation, we wait until there is a crisis in
+which we really are at one with America, and then we falter and threaten
+to fail her. In a battle where we really are of one blood, the blood of
+the great white race throughout the world, when we really have one
+language, the fundamental alphabet of Cadmus and the script of Rome,
+when we really do represent the same reign of law, the common conscience
+of Christendom and the morals of men baptized, when we really have an
+implicit faith and honour and type of freedom to summon up our souls as
+with trumpets&mdash;<i>then</i> many of us begin to weaken and waver and wonder
+whether there is not something very nice about little yellow men, whose
+heroic stories revolve round polygamy and suicide, and whose heroes wore
+two swords and worshipped the ancestors of the Mikado.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Prohibition_in_Fact_and_Fancy" id="Prohibition_in_Fact_and_Fancy"></a><i>Prohibition in Fact and Fancy</i></h2>
+
+<p>I went to America with some notion of not discussing Prohibition. But I
+soon found that well-to-do Americans were only too delighted to discuss
+it over the nuts and wine. They were even willing, if necessary, to
+dispense with the nuts. I am far from sneering at this; having a general
+philosophy which need not here be expounded, but which may be symbolised
+by saying that monkeys can enjoy nuts but only men can enjoy wine. But
+if I am to deal with Prohibition, there is no doubt of the first thing
+to be said about it. The first thing to be said about it is that it does
+not exist. It is to some extent enforced among the poor; at any rate it
+was intended to be enforced among the poor; though even among them I
+fancy it is much evaded. It is certainly not enforced among the rich;
+and I doubt whether it was intended to be. I suspect that this has
+always happened whenever this negative notion has taken hold of some
+particular province or tribe. Prohibition never prohibits. It never has
+in history; not even in Moslem history; and it never will. Mahomet at
+least had the argument of a climate and not the interest of a class. But
+if a test is needed, consider what part of Moslem culture has passed
+permanently into our own modern culture. You will find the one Moslem
+poem that has really pierced is a Moslem poem in praise of wine. The
+crown of all the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>victories of the Crescent is that nobody reads the
+Koran and everybody reads the Rubaiyat.</p>
+
+<p>Most of us remember with satisfaction an old picture in <i>Punch</i>,
+representing a festive old gentleman in a state of collapse on the
+pavement, and a philanthropic old lady anxiously calling the attention
+of a cabman to the calamity. The old lady says, 'I'm sure this poor
+gentleman is ill,' and the cabman replies with fervour, 'Ill! I wish I
+'ad 'alf 'is complaint.'</p>
+
+<p>We talk about unconscious humour; but there is such a thing as
+unconscious seriousness. Flippancy is a flower whose roots are often
+underground in the subconsciousness. Many a man talks sense when he
+thinks he is talking nonsense; touches on a conflict of ideas as if it
+were only a contradiction of language, or really makes a parallel when
+he means only to make a pun. Some of the <i>Punch</i> jokes of the best
+period are examples of this; and that quoted above is a very strong
+example of it. The cabman meant what he said; but he said a great deal
+more than he meant. His utterance contained fine philosophical doctrines
+and distinctions of which he was not perhaps entirely conscious. The
+spirit of the English language, the tragedy and comedy of the condition
+of the English people, spoke through him as the god spoke through a
+teraph-head or brazen mask of oracle. And the oracle is an omen; and in
+some sense an omen of doom.</p>
+
+<p>Observe, to begin with, the sobriety of the cabman. Note his measure,
+his moderation; or to use the yet truer term, his temperance. He only
+wishes to have half the old gentleman's complaint. The old gentleman is
+welcome to the other half, along with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> all the other pomps and luxuries
+of his superior social station. There is nothing Bolshevist or even
+Communist about the temperance cabman. He might almost be called
+Distributist, in the sense that he wishes to distribute the old
+gentleman's complaint more equally between the old gentleman and
+himself. And, of course, the social relations there represented are very
+much truer to life than it is fashionable to suggest. By the realism of
+this picture Mr. Punch made amends for some more snobbish pictures, with
+the opposite social moral. It will remain eternally among his real
+glories that he exhibited a picture in which the cabman was sober and
+the gentleman was drunk. Despite many ideas to the contrary, it was
+emphatically a picture of real life. The truth is subject to the
+simplest of all possible tests. If the cabman were really and truly
+drunk he would not be a cabman, for he could not drive a cab. If he had
+the whole of the old gentleman's complaint, he would be sitting happily
+on the pavement beside the old gentleman; a symbol of social equality
+found at last, and the levelling of all classes of mankind. I do not say
+that there has never been such a monster known as a drunken cabman; I do
+not say that the driver may not sometimes have approximated imprudently
+to three-quarters of the complaint, instead of adhering to his severe
+but wise conception of half of it. But I do say that most men of the
+world, if they spoke sincerely, could testify to more examples of
+helplessly drunken gentlemen put inside cabs than of helplessly drunken
+drivers on top of them. Philanthropists and officials, who never look at
+people but only at papers, probably have a mass of social statistics to
+the contrary; founded on the simple fact that cabmen can be
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>cross-examined about their habits and gentlemen cannot. Social workers
+probably have the whole thing worked out in sections and compartments,
+showing how the extreme intoxication of cabmen compares with the
+parallel intoxication of costermongers; or measuring the drunkenness of
+a dustman against the drunkenness of a crossing-sweeper. But there is
+more practical experience embodied in the practical speech of the
+English; and in the proverb that says 'as drunk as a lord.'</p>
+
+<p>Now Prohibition, whether as a proposal in England or a pretence in
+America, simply means that the man who has drunk less shall have no
+drink, and the man who has drunk more shall have all the drink. It means
+that the old gentleman shall be carried home in the cab drunker than
+ever; but that, in order to make it quite safe for him to drink to
+excess, the man who drives him shall be forbidden to drink even in
+moderation. That is what it means; that is all it means; that is all it
+ever will mean. It tends to that in Moslem countries; where the
+luxurious and advanced drink champagne, while the poor and fanatical
+drink water. It means that in modern America; where the wealthy are all
+at this moment sipping their cocktails, and discussing how much harder
+labourers can be made to work if only they can be kept from festivity.
+This is what it means and all it means; and men are divided about it
+according to whether they believe in a certain transcendental concept
+called 'justice,' expressed in a more mystical paradox as the equality
+of men. So long as you do not believe in justice, and so long as you are
+rich and really confident of remaining so, you can have Prohibition and
+be as drunk as you choose.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p><p>I see that some remarks by the Rev. R. J. Campbell, dealing with social
+conditions in America, are reported in the press. They include some
+observations about Sinn Fein in which, as in most of Mr. Campbell's
+allusions to Ireland, it is not difficult to detect his dismal origin,
+or the acrid smell of the smoke of Belfast. But the remarks about
+America are valuable in the objective sense, over and above their
+philosophy. He believes that Prohibition will survive and be a success,
+nor does he seem himself to regard the prospect with any special
+disfavour. But he frankly and freely testifies to the truth I have
+asserted; that Prohibition does not prohibit, so far as the wealthy are
+concerned. He testifies to constantly seeing wine on the table, as will
+any other grateful guest of the generous hospitality of America; and he
+implies humorously that he asked no questions about the story told him
+of the old stocks in the cellars. So there is no dispute about the
+facts; and we come back as before to the principles. Is Mr. Campbell
+content with a Prohibition which is another name for Privilege? If so,
+he has simply absorbed along with his new theology a new morality which
+is different from mine. But he does state both sides of the inequality
+with equal logic and clearness; and in these days of intellectual fog
+that alone is like a ray of sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>Now my primary objection to Prohibition is not based on any arguments
+against it, but on the one argument for it. I need nothing more for its
+condemnation than the only thing that is said in its defence. It is said
+by capitalists all over America; and it is very clearly and correctly
+reported by Mr. Campbell himself. The argument is that employees work
+harder, and therefore employers get richer.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> That this idea should be
+taken calmly, by itself, as the test of a problem of liberty, is in
+itself a final testimony to the presence of slavery. It shows that
+people have completely forgotten that there is any other test except the
+servile test. Employers are willing that workmen should have exercise,
+as it may help them to do more work. They are even willing that workmen
+should have leisure; for the more intelligent capitalists can see that
+this also really means that they can do more work. But they are not in
+any way willing that workmen should have fun; for fun only increases the
+happiness and not the utility of the worker. Fun is freedom; and in that
+sense is an end in itself. It concerns the man not as a worker but as a
+citizen, or even as a soul; and the soul in that sense is an end in
+itself. That a man shall have a reasonable amount of comedy and poetry
+and even fantasy in his life is part of his spiritual health, which is
+for the service of God; and not merely for his mechanical health, which
+is now bound to the service of man. The very test adopted has all the
+servile implication; the test of what we can get out of him, instead of
+the test of what he can get out of life.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Campbell is reported to have suggested, doubtless rather as a
+conjecture than a prophecy, that England may find it necessary to become
+teetotal in order to compete commercially with the efficiency and
+economy of teetotal America. Well, in the eighteenth and early
+nineteenth centuries there was in America one of the most economical and
+efficient of all forms of labour. It did not happen to be feasible for
+the English to compete with it by copying it. There were so many
+humanitarian prejudices about in those days. But economically there
+seems to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> no reason why a man should not have prophesied that England
+would be forced to adopt American Slavery then, as she is urged to adopt
+American Prohibition now. Perhaps such a prophet would have prophesied
+rightly. Certainly it is not impossible that universal Slavery might
+have been the vision of Calhoun as universal Prohibition seems to be the
+vision of Campbell. The old England of 1830 would have said that such a
+plea for slavery was monstrous; but what would it have said of a plea
+for enforced water-drinking? Nevertheless, the nobler Servile State of
+Calhoun collapsed before it could spread to Europe. And there is always
+the hope that the same may happen to the far more materialistic Utopia
+of Mr. Campbell and Soft Drinks.</p>
+
+<p>Abstract morality is very important; and it may well clear the mind to
+consider what would be the effect of Prohibition in America, if it were
+introduced there. It would, of course, be a decisive departure from the
+tradition of the Declaration of Independence. Those who deny that are
+hardly serious enough to demand attention. It is enough to say that they
+are reduced to minimising that document in defence of Prohibition,
+exactly as the slave-owners were reduced to minimising it in defence of
+Slavery. They are reduced to saying that the Fathers of the Republic
+meant no more than that they would not be ruled by a king. And they are
+obviously open to the reply which Lincoln gave to Douglas on the slavery
+question; that if that great charter was limited to certain events in
+the eighteenth century, it was hardly worth making such a fuss about in
+the nineteenth&mdash;or in the twentieth. But they are also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> open to another
+reply which is even more to the point, when they pretend that
+Jefferson's famous preamble only means to say that monarchy is wrong.
+They are maintaining that Jefferson only meant to say something that he
+does not say at all. The great preamble does not say that all
+monarchical government must be wrong; on the contrary, it rather implies
+that most government is right. It speaks of human governments in general
+as justified by the necessity of defending certain personal rights. I
+see no reason whatever to suppose that it would not include any royal
+government that does defend those rights. Still less do I doubt what it
+would say of a republican government that does destroy those rights.</p>
+
+<p>But what are those rights? Sophists can always debate about their
+degree; but even sophists cannot debate about their direction. Nobody in
+his five wits will deny that Jeffersonian democracy wished to give the
+law a general control in more public things, but the citizens a more
+general liberty in private things. Wherever we draw the line, liberty
+can only be personal liberty; and the most personal liberties must at
+least be the last liberties we lose. But to-day they are the first
+liberties we lose. It is not a question of drawing the line in the right
+place, but of beginning at the wrong end. What are the rights of man, if
+they do not include the normal right to regulate his own health, in
+relation to the normal risks of diet and daily life? Nobody can pretend
+that beer is a poison as prussic acid is a poison; that all the millions
+of civilised men who drank it all fell down dead when they had touched
+it. Its use and abuse is obviously a matter of judgment; and there can
+be no personal liberty, if it is not a matter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> private judgment. It
+is not in the least a question of drawing the line between liberty and
+licence. If this is licence, there is no such thing as liberty. It is
+plainly impossible to find any right more individual or intimate. To say
+that a man has a right to a vote, but not a right to a voice about the
+choice of his dinner, is like saying that he has a right to his hat but
+not a right to his head.</p>
+
+<p>Prohibition, therefore, plainly violates the rights of man, if there are
+any rights of man. What its supporters really mean is that there are
+none. And in suggesting this, they have all the advantages that every
+sceptic has when he supports a negation. That sort of ultimate
+scepticism can only be retorted upon itself, and we can point out to
+them that they can no more prove the right of the city to be oppressive
+than we can prove the right of the citizen to be free. In the primary
+metaphysics of such a claim, it would surely be easier to make it out
+for a single conscious soul than for an artificial social combination.
+If there are no rights of men, what are the rights of nations? Perhaps a
+nation has no claim to self-government. Perhaps it has no claim to good
+government. Perhaps it has no claim to any sort of government or any
+sort of independence. Perhaps they will say <i>that</i> is not implied in the
+Declaration of Independence. But without going deep into my reasons for
+believing in natural rights, or rather in supernatural rights (and
+Jefferson certainly states them as supernatural), I am content here to
+note that a man's treatment of his own body, in relation to traditional
+and ordinary opportunities for bodily excess, is as near to his
+self-respect as social coercion can possibly go; and that when that is
+gone there is nothing left.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> If coercion applies to that, it applies to
+everything; and in the future of this controversy it obviously will
+apply to everything. When I was in America, people were already applying
+it to tobacco. I never can see why they should not apply it to talking.
+Talking often goes with tobacco as it goes with beer; and what is more
+relevant, talking may often lead both to beer and tobacco. Talking often
+drives a man to drink, both negatively in the form of nagging and
+positively in the form of bad company. If the American Puritan is so
+anxious to be a <i>censor morum</i>, he should obviously put a stop to the
+evil communications that really corrupt good manners. He should
+reintroduce the Scold's Bridle among the other Blue Laws for a land of
+blue devils. He should gag all gay deceivers and plausible cynics; he
+should cut off all flattering lips and the tongue that speaketh proud
+things. Nobody can doubt that nine-tenths of the harm in the world is
+done simply by talking. Jefferson and the old democrats allowed people
+to talk, not because they were unaware of this fact, but because they
+were fettered by this old fancy of theirs about freedom and the rights
+of man. But since we have already abandoned that doctrine in a final
+fashion, I cannot see why the new principle should not be applied
+intelligently; and in that case it would be applied to the control of
+conversation. The State would provide us with forms already filled up
+with the subjects suitable for us to discuss at breakfast; perhaps
+allowing us a limited number of epigrams each. Perhaps we should have to
+make a formal application in writing, to be allowed to make a joke that
+had just occurred to us in conversation. And the committee would
+consider it in due course. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>Perhaps it would be effected in a more
+practical fashion, and the private citizens would be shut up as the
+public-houses were shut up. Perhaps they would all wear gags, which the
+policeman would remove at stated hours; and their mouths would be opened
+from one to three, as now in England even the public-houses are from
+time to time accessible to the public. To some this will sound
+fantastic; but not so fantastic as Jefferson would have thought
+Prohibition. But there is one sense in which it is indeed fantastic, for
+by hypothesis it leaves out the favouritism that is the fundamental of
+the whole matter. The only sense in which we can say that logic will
+never go so far as this is that logic will never go the length of
+equality. It is perfectly possible that the same forces that have
+forbidden beer may go on to forbid tobacco. But they will in a special
+and limited sense forbid tobacco&mdash;but not cigars. Or at any rate not
+expensive cigars. In America, where large numbers of ordinary men smoke
+rather ordinary cigars, there would be doubtless a good opportunity of
+penalising a very ordinary pleasure. But the Havanas of the millionaire
+will be all right. So it will be if ever the Puritans bring back the
+Scold's Bridle and the statutory silence of the populace. It will only
+be the populace that is silent. The politicians will go on talking.</p>
+
+<p>These I believe to be the broad facts of the problem of Prohibition; but
+it would not be fair to leave it without mentioning two other causes
+which, if not defences, are at least excuses. The first is that
+Prohibition was largely passed in a sort of fervour or fever of
+self-sacrifice, which was a part of the passionate patriotism of America
+in the war. As I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> have remarked elsewhere, those who have any notion of
+what that national unanimity was like will smile when they see America
+made a model of mere international idealism. Prohibition was partly a
+sort of patriotic renunciation; for the popular instinct, like every
+poetic instinct, always tends at great crises to great gestures of
+renunciation. But this very fact, while it makes the inhumanity far more
+human, makes it far less final and convincing. Men cannot remain
+standing stiffly in such symbolical attitudes; nor can a permanent
+policy be founded on something analogous to flinging a gauntlet or
+uttering a battle-cry. We might as well expect all the Yale students to
+remain through life with their mouths open, exactly as they were when
+they uttered the college yell. It would be as reasonable as to expect
+them to remain through life with their mouths shut, while the wine-cup
+which has been the sacrament of all poets and lovers passed round among
+all the youth of the world. This point appeared very plainly in a
+discussion I had with a very thoughtful and sympathetic American critic,
+a clergyman writing in an Anglo-Catholic magazine. He put the sentiment
+of these healthier Prohibitionists, which had so much to do with the
+passing of Prohibition, by asking, 'May not a man who is asked to give
+up his blood for his country be asked to give up his beer for his
+country?' And this phrase clearly illuminates all the limitations of the
+case. I have never denied, in principle, that it might in some abnormal
+crisis be lawful for a government to lock up the beer, or to lock up the
+bread. In that sense I am quite prepared to treat the sacrifice of beer
+in the same way as the sacrifice of blood. But is my American critic
+really ready to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> treat the sacrifice of blood in the same way as the
+sacrifice of beer? Is bloodshed to be as prolonged and protracted as
+Prohibition? Is the normal noncombatant to shed his gore as often as he
+misses his drink? I can imagine people submitting to a special
+regulation, as I can imagine them serving in a particular war. I do
+indeed despise the political knavery that deliberately passes drink
+regulations as war measures and then preserves them as peace measures.
+But that is not a question of whether drink and drunkenness are wrong,
+but of whether lying and swindling are wrong. But I never denied that
+there might need to be exceptional sacrifices for exceptional occasions;
+and war is in its nature an exception. Only, if war is the exception,
+why should Prohibition be the rule? If the surrender of beer is worthy
+to be compared to the shedding of blood, why then blood ought to be
+flowing for ever like a fountain in the public squares of Philadelphia
+and New York. If my critic wants to complete his parallel, he must draw
+up rather a remarkable programme for the daily life of the ordinary
+citizens. He must suppose that, through all their lives, they are
+paraded every day at lunch time and prodded with bayonets to show that
+they will shed their blood for their country. He must suppose that every
+evening, after a light repast of poison gas and shrapnel, they are made
+to go to sleep in a trench under a permanent drizzle of shell-fire. It
+is surely obvious that if this were the normal life of the citizen, the
+citizen would have no normal life. The common sense of the thing is that
+sacrifices of this sort are admirable but abnormal. It is not normal for
+the State to be perpetually regulating our days with the discipline of a
+fighting regiment; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> it is not normal for the State to be perpetually
+regulating our diet with the discipline of a famine. To say that every
+citizen must be subject to control in such bodily things is like saying
+that every Christian ought to tear himself with red-hot pincers because
+the Christian martyrs did their duty in time of persecution. A man has a
+right to control his body, though in a time of martyrdom he may give his
+body to be burned; and a man has a right to control his bodily health,
+though in a state of siege he may give his body to be starved. Thus,
+though the patriotic defence was a sincere defence, it is a defence that
+comes back on the defenders like a boomerang. For it proves only that
+Prohibition ought to be ephemeral, unless war ought to be eternal.</p>
+
+<p>The other excuse is much less romantic and much more realistic. I have
+already said enough of the cause which is really realistic. The real
+power behind Prohibition is simply the plutocratic power of the pushing
+employers who wish to get the last inch of work out of their workmen.
+But before the progress of modern plutocracy had reached this stage,
+there was a predetermining cause for which there was a much better case.
+The whole business began with the problem of black labour. I have not
+attempted in this book to deal adequately with the question of the
+negro. I have refrained for a reason that may seem somewhat sensational;
+that I do not think I have anything particularly valuable to say or
+suggest. I do not profess to understand this singularly dark and
+intricate matter; and I see no use in men who have no solution filling
+up the gap with sentimentalism. The chief thing that struck me about the
+coloured people I saw was their charming and astonishing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> cheerfulness.
+My sense of pathos was appealed to much more by the Red Indians; and
+indeed I wish I had more space here to do justice to the Red Indians.
+They did heroic service in the war; and more than justified their
+glorious place in the day-dreams and nightmares of our boyhood. But the
+negro problem certainly demands more study than a sight-seer could give
+it; and this book is controversial enough about things that I have
+really considered, without permitting it to exhibit me as a sight-seer
+who shoots at sight. But I believe that it was always common ground to
+people of common sense that the enslavement and importation of negroes
+had been the crime and catastrophe of American history. The only
+difference was originally that one side thought that, the crime once
+committed, the only reparation was their freedom; while the other
+thought that, the crime once committed, the only safety was their
+slavery. It was only comparatively lately, by a process I shall have to
+indicate elsewhere, that anything like a positive case for slavery
+became possible. Now among the many problems of the presence of an alien
+and at least recently barbaric figure among the citizens, there was a
+very real problem of drink. Drink certainly has a very exceptionally
+destructive effect upon negroes in their native countries; and it was
+alleged to have a peculiarly demoralising effect upon negroes in the
+United States; to call up the passions that are the particular
+temptation of the race and to lead to appalling outrages that are
+followed by appalling popular vengeance. However this may be, many of
+the states of the American Union, which first forbade liquor to
+citizens, meant simply to forbid it to negroes. But they had not the
+moral courage to deny that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> negroes are citizens. About all their
+political expedients necessarily hung the load that hangs so heavy on
+modern politics; hypocrisy. The superior race had to rule by a sort of
+secret society organised against the inferior. The American politicians
+dared not disfranchise the negroes; so they coerced everybody in theory
+and only the negroes in practice. The drinking of the white men became
+as much a conspiracy as the shooting by the white horsemen of the
+Ku-Klux Klan. And in that connection, it may be remarked in passing that
+the comparison illustrates the idiocy of supposing that the moral sense
+of mankind will ever support the prohibition of drinking as if it were
+something like the prohibition of shooting. Shooting in America is
+liable to take a free form, and sometimes a very horrible form; as when
+private bravos were hired to kill workmen in the capitalistic interests
+of that pure patron of disarmament, Carnegie. But when some of the rich
+Americans gravely tell us that their drinking cannot be interfered with,
+because they are only using up their existing stocks of wine, we may
+well be disposed to smile. When I was there, at any rate, they were
+using them up very fast; and with no apparent fears about the supply.
+But if the Ku-Klux Klan had started suddenly shooting everybody they
+didn't like in broad daylight, and had blandly explained that they were
+only using up the stocks of their ammunition, left over from the Civil
+War, it seems probable that there would at least have been a little
+curiosity about how much they had left. There might at least have been
+occasional inquiries about how long it was likely to go on. It is even
+conceivable that some steps might have been taken to stop it.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p><p>No steps are taken to stop the drinking of the rich, chiefly because
+the rich now make all the rules and therefore all the exceptions, but
+partly because nobody ever could feel the full moral seriousness of this
+particular rule. And the truth is, as I have indicated, that it was
+originally established as an exception and not as a rule. The
+emancipated negro was an exception in the community, and a certain plan
+was, rightly or wrongly, adopted to meet his case. A law was made
+professedly for everybody and practically only for him. Prohibition is
+only important as marking the transition by which the trick, tried
+successfully on black labour, could be extended to all labour. We in
+England have no right to be Pharisaic at the expense of the Americans in
+this matter; for we have tried the same trick in a hundred forms. The
+true philosophical defence of the modern oppression of the poor would be
+to say frankly that we have ruled them so badly that they are unfit to
+rule themselves. But no modern oligarch is enough of a man to say this.
+For like all virile cynicism it would have an element of humility; which
+would not mix with the necessary element of hypocrisy. So we proceed,
+just as the Americans do, to make a law for everybody and then evade it
+for ourselves. We have not the honesty to say that the rich may bet
+because they can afford it; so we forbid any man to bet in any place;
+and then say that a place is not a place. It is exactly as if there were
+an American law allowing a negro to be murdered because he is not a man
+within the meaning of the Act. We have not the honesty to drive the poor
+to school because they are ignorant; so we pretend to drive everybody;
+and then send inspectors to the slums but not to the smart streets. We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>
+apply the same ingenuous principle; and are quite as undemocratic as
+Western democracy. Nevertheless there is an element in the American case
+which cannot be present in ours; and this chapter may well conclude upon
+so important a change.</p>
+
+<p>America can now say with pride that she has abolished the colour bar. In
+this matter the white labourer and the black labourer have at last been
+put upon an equal social footing. White labour is every bit as much
+enslaved as black labour; and is actually enslaved by a method and a
+model only intended for black labour. We might think it rather odd if
+the exact regulations about flogging negroes were reproduced as a plan
+for punishing strikers; or if industrial arbitration issued its reports
+in the precise terminology of the Fugitive Slave Law. But this is in
+essentials what has happened; and one could almost fancy some negro orgy
+of triumph, with the beating of gongs and all the secret violence of
+Voodoo, crying aloud to some ancestral Mumbo Jumbo that the Poor White
+Trash was being treated according to its name.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Fads_and_Public_Opinion" id="Fads_and_Public_Opinion"></a><i>Fads and Public Opinion</i></h2>
+
+<p>A foreigner is a man who laughs at everything except jokes. He is
+perfectly entitled to laugh at anything, so long as he realises, in a
+reverent and religious spirit, that he himself is laughable. I was a
+foreigner in America; and I can truly claim that the sense of my own
+laughable position never left me. But when the native and the foreigner
+have finished with seeing the fun of each other in things that are meant
+to be serious, they both approach the far more delicate and dangerous
+ground of things that are meant to be funny. The sense of humour is
+generally very national; perhaps that is why the internationalists are
+so careful to purge themselves of it. I had occasion during the war to
+consider the rights and wrongs of certain differences alleged to have
+arisen between the English and American soldiers at the front. And,
+rightly or wrongly, I came to the conclusion that they arose from the
+failure to understand when a foreigner is serious and when he is
+humorous. And it is in the very nature of the best sort of joke to be
+the worst sort of insult if it is not taken as a joke.</p>
+
+<p>The English and the American types of humour are in one way directly
+contrary. The most American sort of fun involves a soaring imagination,
+piling one house on another in a tower like that of a sky-scraper. The
+most English humour consists of a sort of bathos,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> of a man returning to
+the earth his mother in a homely fashion; as when he sits down suddenly
+on a butter-slide. English farce describes a man as being in a hole.
+American fantasy, in its more aspiring spirit, describes a man as being
+up a tree. The former is to be found in the cockney comic songs that
+concern themselves with hanging out the washing or coming home with the
+milk. The latter is to be found in those fantastic yarns about machines
+that turn live pigs into pig-skin purses or burning cities that serve to
+hatch an egg. But it will be inevitable, when the two come first into
+contact, that the bathos will sound like vulgarity and the extravagance
+will sound like boasting.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose an American soldier said to an English soldier in the trenches,
+'The Kaiser may want a place in the sun; I reckon he won't have a place
+in the solar system when we begin to hustle.' The English soldier will
+very probably form the impression that this is arrogance; an impression
+based on the extraordinary assumption that the American means what he
+says. The American has merely indulged in a little art for art's sake,
+and abstract adventure of the imagination; he has told an American short
+story. But the Englishman, not understanding this, will think the other
+man is boasting, and reflecting on the insufficiency of the English
+effort. The English soldier is very likely to say something like, 'Oh,
+you'll be wanting to get home to your old woman before that, and asking
+for a kipper with your tea.' And it is quite likely that the American
+will be offended in his turn at having his arabesque of abstract beauty
+answered in so personal a fashion. Being an American, he will probably
+have a fine and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> chivalrous respect for his wife; and may object to her
+being called an old woman. Possibly he in turn may be under the
+extraordinary delusion that talking of the old woman really means that
+the woman is old. Possibly he thinks the mysterious demand for a kipper
+carries with it some charge of ill-treating his wife; which his national
+sense of honour swiftly resents. But the real cross-purposes come from
+the contrary direction of the two exaggerations, the American making
+life more wild and impossible than it is, and the Englishman making it
+more flat and farcical than it is; the one escaping from the house of
+life by a skylight and the other by a trap-door.</p>
+
+<p>This difficulty of different humours is a very practical one for
+practical people. Most of those who profess to remove all international
+differences are not practical people. Most of the phrases offered for
+the reconciliation of severally patriotic peoples are entirely serious
+and even solemn phrases. But human conversation is not conducted in
+those phrases. The normal man on nine occasions out of ten is rather a
+flippant man. And the normal man is almost always the national man.
+Patriotism is the most popular of all the virtues. The drier sort of
+democrats who despise it have the democracy against them in every
+country in the world. Hence their international efforts seldom go any
+farther than to effect an international reconciliation of all
+internationalists. But we have not solved the normal and popular problem
+until we have an international reconciliation of all nationalists.</p>
+
+<p>It is very difficult to see how humour can be translated at all. When
+Sam Weller is in the Fleet Prison and Mrs. Weller and Mr. Stiggins sit
+on each side<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> of the fireplace and weep and groan with sympathy, old Mr.
+Weller observes, 'Vell, Sammy, I hope you find your spirits rose by this
+'ere lively visit.' I have never looked up this passage in the popular
+and successful French version of <i>Pickwick</i>; but I confess I am curious
+as to what French past-participle conveys the precise effect of the word
+'rose.' A translator has not only to give the right translation of the
+right word but the right translation of the wrong word. And in the same
+way I am quite prepared to suspect that there are English jokes which an
+Englishman must enjoy in his own rich and romantic solitude, without
+asking for the sympathy of an American. But Englishmen are generally
+only too prone to claim this fine perception, without seeing that the
+fine edge of it cuts both ways. I have begun this chapter on the note of
+national humour because I wish to make it quite clear that I realise how
+easily a foreigner may take something seriously that is not serious.
+When I think something in America is really foolish, it may be I that am
+made a fool of. It is the first duty of a traveller to allow for this;
+but it seems to be the very last thing that occurs to some travellers.
+But when I seek to say something of what may be called the fantastic
+side of America, I allow beforehand that some of it may be meant to be
+fantastic. And indeed it is very difficult to believe that some of it is
+meant to be serious. But whether or no there is a joke, there is
+certainly an inconsistency; and it is an inconsistency in the moral
+make-up of America which both puzzles and amuses me.</p>
+
+<p>The danger of democracy is not anarchy but convention. There is even a
+sort of double meaning in the word 'convention'; for it is also used for
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> most informal and popular sort of parliament; a parliament not
+summoned by any king. The Americans come together very easily without
+any king; but their coming together is in every sense a convention, and
+even a very conventional convention. In a democracy riot is rather the
+exception and respectability certainly the rule. And though a
+superficial sight-seer should hesitate about all such generalisations,
+and certainly should allow for enormous exceptions to them, he does
+receive a general impression of unity verging on uniformity. Thus
+Americans all dress well; one might almost say that American women all
+look well; but they do not, as compared with Europeans, look very
+different. They are in the fashion; too much in the fashion even to be
+conspicuously fashionable. Of course there are patches, both Bohemian
+and Babylonian, of which this is not true, but I am talking of the
+general tone of a whole democracy. I have said there is more
+respectability than riot; but indeed in a deeper sense the same spirit
+is behind both riot and respectability. It is the same social force that
+makes it possible for the respectable to boycott a man and for the
+riotous to lynch him. I do not object to it being called 'the herd
+instinct,' so long as we realise that it is a metaphor and not an
+explanation.</p>
+
+<p>Public opinion can be a prairie fire. It eats up everything that opposes
+it; and there is the grandeur as well as the grave disadvantages of a
+natural catastrophe in that national unity. Pacifists who complained in
+England of the intolerance of patriotism have no notion of what
+patriotism can be like. If they had been in America, after America had
+entered the war, they would have seen something which they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> have always
+perhaps subconsciously dreaded, and would then have beyond all their
+worst dreams detested; and the name of it is democracy. They would have
+found that there are disadvantages in birds of a feather flocking
+together; and that one of them follows on a too complacent display of
+the white feather. The truth is that a certain flexible sympathy with
+eccentrics of this kind is rather one of the advantages of an
+aristocratic tradition. The imprisonment of Mr. Debs, the American
+Pacifist, which really was prolonged and oppressive, would probably have
+been shortened in England where his opinions were shared by aristocrats
+like Mr. Bertrand Russell and Mr. Ponsonby. A man like Lord Hugh Cecil
+could be moved to the defence of conscientious objectors, partly by a
+true instinct of chivalry; but partly also by the general feeling that a
+gentleman may very probably have aunts and uncles who are quite as mad.
+He takes the matter personally, in the sense of being able to imagine
+the psychology of the persons. But democracy is no respecter of persons.
+It is no respecter of them, either in the bad and servile or in the good
+and sympathetic sense. And Debs was nothing to democracy. He was but one
+of the millions. This is a real problem, or question in the balance,
+touching different forms of government; which is, of course, quite
+neglected by the idealists who merely repeat long words. There was
+during the war a society called the Union of Democratic Control, which
+would have been instantly destroyed anywhere where democracy had any
+control, or where there was any union. And in this sense the United
+States have most emphatically got a union. Nevertheless I think there is
+something rather more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> subtle than this simple popular solidity behind
+the assimilation of American citizens to each other. There is something
+even in the individual ideals that drives towards this social sympathy.
+And it is here that we have to remember that biological fancies like the
+herd instinct are only figures of speech, and cannot really cover
+anything human. For the Americans are in some ways a very self-conscious
+people. To compare their social enthusiasm to a stampede of cattle is to
+ask us to believe in a bull writing a diary or a cow looking in a
+looking-glass. Intensely sensitive by their very vitality, they are
+certainly conscious of criticism and not merely of a blind and brutal
+appetite. But the peculiar point about them is that it is this very
+vividness in the self that often produces the similarity. It may be that
+when they are unconscious they are like bulls and cows. But it is when
+they are self-conscious that they are like each other.</p>
+
+<p>Individualism is the death of individuality. It is so, if only because
+it is an 'ism.' Many Americans become almost impersonal in their worship
+of personality. Where their natural selves might differ, their ideal
+selves tend to be the same. Anybody can see what I mean in those strong
+self-conscious photographs of American business men that can be seen in
+any American magazine. Each may conceive himself to be a solitary
+Napoleon brooding at St. Helena; but the result is a multitude of
+Napoleons brooding all over the place. Each of them must have the eyes
+of a mesmerist; but the most weak-minded person cannot be mesmerised by
+more than one millionaire at a time. Each of the millionaires must
+thrust forward his jaw, offering (if I may say so) to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> fight the world
+with the same weapon as Samson. Each of them must accentuate the length
+of his chin, especially, of course, by always being completely
+clean-shaven. It would be obviously inconsistent with Personality to
+prefer to wear a beard. These are of course fantastic examples on the
+fringe of American life; but they do stand for a certain assimilation,
+not through brute gregariousness, but rather through isolated dreaming.
+And though it is not always carried so far as this, I do think it is
+carried too far. There is not quite enough unconsciousness to produce
+real individuality. There is a sort of worship of will-power in the
+abstract, so that people are actually thinking about how they can will,
+more than about what they want. To this I do think a certain corrective
+could be found in the nature of English eccentricity. Every man in his
+humour is most interesting when he is unconscious of his humour; or at
+least when he is in an intermediate stage between humour in the old
+sense of oddity and in the new sense of irony. Much is said in these
+days against negative morality; and certainly most Americans would show
+a positive preference for positive morality. The virtues they venerate
+collectively are very active virtues; cheerfulness and courage and vim,
+otherwise zip, also pep and similar things. But it is sometimes
+forgotten that negative morality is freer than positive morality.
+Negative morality is a net of a larger and more open pattern, of which
+the lines or cords constrict at longer intervals. A man like Dr. Johnson
+could grow in his own way to his own stature in the net of the Ten
+Commandments; precisely because he was convinced there were only ten of
+them. He was not compressed into the mould of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> positive beauty, like
+that of the Apollo Belvedere or the American citizen.</p>
+
+<p>This criticism is sometimes true even of the American woman, who is
+certainly a much more delightful person than the mesmeric millionaire
+with his shaven jaw. Interviewers in the United States perpetually asked
+me what I thought of American women, and I confessed a distaste for such
+generalisations which I have not managed to lose. The Americans, who are
+the most chivalrous people in the world, may perhaps understand me; but
+I can never help feeling that there is something polygamous about
+talking of women in the plural at all; something unworthy of any
+American except a Mormon. Nevertheless, I think the exaggeration I
+suggest does extend in a less degree to American women, fascinating as
+they are. I think they too tend too much to this cult of impersonal
+personality. It is a description easy to exaggerate even by the faintest
+emphasis; for all these things are subtle and subject to striking
+individual exceptions. To complain of people for being brave and bright
+and kind and intelligent may not unreasonably appear unreasonable. And
+yet there is something in the background that can only be expressed by a
+symbol, something that is not shallowness but a neglect of the
+subconsciousness and the vaguer and slower impulses; something that can
+be missed amid all that laughter and light, under those starry
+candelabra of the ideals of the happy virtues. Sometimes it came over
+me, in a wordless wave, that I should like to see a sulky woman. How she
+would walk in beauty like the night, and reveal more silent spaces full
+of older stars! These things cannot be conveyed in their delicate
+proportion even in the most detached<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> description. But the same thing
+was in the mind of a white-bearded old man I met in New York, an Irish
+exile and a wonderful talker, who stared up at the tower of gilded
+galleries of the great hotel, and said with that spontaneous movement of
+style which is hardly heard except from Irish talkers: 'And I have been
+in a village in the mountains where the people could hardly read or
+write; but all the men were like soldiers, and all the women had pride.'</p>
+
+<p>It sounds like a poem about an Earthly Paradise to say that in this land
+the old women can be more beautiful than the young. Indeed, I think Walt
+Whitman, the national poet, has a line somewhere almost precisely to
+that effect. It sounds like a parody upon Utopia, and the image of the
+lion lying down with the lamb, to say it is a place where a man might
+almost fall in love with his mother-in-law. But there is nothing in
+which the finer side of American gravity and good feeling does more
+honourably exhibit itself than in a certain atmosphere around the older
+women. It is not a cant phrase to say that they grow old gracefully; for
+they do really grow old. In this the national optimism really has in it
+the national courage. The old women do not dress like young women; they
+only dress better. There is another side to this feminine dignity in the
+old, sometimes a little lost in the young, with which I shall deal
+presently. The point for the moment is that even Whitman's truly poetic
+vision of the beautiful old women suffers a little from that bewildering
+multiplicity and recurrence that is indeed the whole theme of Whitman.
+It is like the green eternity of Leaves of Grass. When I think of the
+eccentric spinsters and incorrigible grandmothers of my own<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> country, I
+cannot imagine that any one of them could possibly be mistaken for
+another, even at a glance. And in comparison I feel as if I had been
+travelling in an Earthly Paradise of more decorative harmonies; and I
+remember only a vast cloud of grey and pink as of the plumage of
+cherubim in an old picture. But on second thoughts, I think this may be
+only the inevitable effect of visiting any country in a swift and
+superficial fashion; and that the grey and pink cloud is probably an
+illusion, like the spinning prairies scattered by the wheel of the
+train.</p>
+
+<p>Anyhow there is enough of this equality, and of a certain social unity
+favourable to sanity, to make the next point about America very much of
+a puzzle. It seems to me a very real problem, to which I have never seen
+an answer even such as I shall attempt here, why a democracy should
+produce fads; and why, where there is so genuine a sense of human
+dignity, there should be so much of an impossible petty tyranny. I am
+not referring solely or even specially to Prohibition, which I discuss
+elsewhere. Prohibition is at least a superstition, and therefore next
+door to a religion; it has some imaginable connection with moral
+questions, as have slavery or human sacrifice. But those who ask us to
+model ourselves on the States which punish the sin of drink forget that
+there are States which punish the equally shameless sin of smoking a
+cigarette in the open air. The same American atmosphere that permits
+Prohibition permits of people being punished for kissing each other. In
+other words, there are States psychologically capable of making a man a
+convict for wearing a blue neck-tie or having a green front-door, or
+anything else that anybody chooses to fancy. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> is an American
+atmosphere in which people may some day be shot for shaking hands, or
+hanged for writing a post-card.</p>
+
+<p>As for the sort of thing to which I refer, the American newspapers are
+full of it and there is no name for it but mere madness. Indeed it is
+not only mad, but it calls itself mad. To mention but one example out of
+many, it was actually boasted that some lunatics were teaching children
+to take care of their health. And it was proudly added that the children
+were 'health-mad.' That it is not exactly the object of all mental
+hygiene to make people mad did not occur to them; and they may still be
+engaged in their earnest labours to teach babies to be valetudinarians
+and hypochondriacs in order to make them healthy. In such cases, we may
+say that the modern world is too ridiculous to be ridiculed. You cannot
+caricature a caricature. Imagine what a satirist of saner days would
+have made of the daily life of a child of six, who was actually admitted
+to be mad on the subject of his own health. These are not days in which
+that great extravaganza could be written; but I dimly see some of its
+episodes like uncompleted dreams. I see the child pausing in the middle
+of a cart-wheel, or when he has performed three-quarters of a
+cart-wheel, and consulting a little note-book about the amount of
+exercise per diem. I see him pausing half-way up a tree, or when he has
+climbed exactly one-third of a tree; and then producing a clinical
+thermometer to take his own temperature. But what would be the good of
+imaginative logic to prove the madness of such people, when they
+themselves praise it for being mad?</p>
+
+<p>There is also the cult of the Infant Phenomenon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> of which Dickens made
+fun and of which educationalists make fusses. When I was in America
+another newspaper produced a marvellous child of six who had the
+intellect of a child of twelve. The only test given, and apparently one
+on which the experiment turned, was that she could be made to understand
+and even to employ the word 'annihilate.' When asked to say something
+proving this, the happy infant offered the polished aphorism, 'When
+common sense comes in, superstition is annihilated.' In reply to which,
+by way of showing that I also am as intelligent as a child of twelve,
+and there is no arrested development about me, I will say in the same
+elegant diction, 'When psychological education comes in, common sense is
+annihilated.' Everybody seems to be sitting round this child in an
+adoring fashion. It did not seem to occur to anybody that we do not
+particularly want even a child of twelve to talk about annihilating
+superstition; that we do not want a child of six to talk like a child of
+twelve, or a child of twelve to talk like a man of fifty, or even a man
+of fifty to talk like a fool. And on the principle of hoping that a
+little girl of six will have a massive and mature brain, there is every
+reason for hoping that a little boy of six will grow a magnificent and
+bushy beard.</p>
+
+<p>Now there is any amount of this nonsense cropping up among American
+cranks. Anybody may propose to establish coercive Eugenics; or enforce
+psychoanalysis&mdash;that is, enforce confession without absolution. And I
+confess I cannot connect this feature with the genuine democratic spirit
+of the mass. I can only suggest, in concluding this chapter, two
+possible causes rather peculiar to America, which may have made this
+great democracy so unlike all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> other democracies, and in this so
+manifestly hostile to the whole democratic idea.</p>
+
+<p>The first historical cause is Puritanism; but not Puritanism merely in
+the sense of Prohibitionism. The truth is that prohibitions might have
+done far less harm as prohibitions, if a vague association had not
+arisen, on some dark day of human unreason, between prohibition and
+progress. And it was the progress that did the harm, not the
+prohibition. Men can enjoy life under considerable limitations, if they
+can be sure of their limited enjoyments; but under Progressive
+Puritanism we can never be sure of anything. The curse of it is not
+limitation; it is unlimited limitation. The evil is not in the
+restriction; but in the fact that nothing can ever restrict the
+restriction. The prohibitions are bound to progress point by point; more
+and more human rights and pleasures must of necessity be taken away; for
+it is of the nature of this futurism that the latest fad is the faith of
+the future, and the most fantastic fad inevitably makes the pace. Thus
+the worst thing in the seventeenth-century aberration was not so much
+Puritanism as sectarianism. It searched for truth not by synthesis but
+by subdivision. It not only broke religion into small pieces, but it was
+bound to choose the smallest piece. There is in America, I believe, a
+large religious body that has felt it right to separate itself from
+Christendom because it cannot believe in the morality of wearing
+buttons. I do not know how the schism arose; but it is easy to suppose,
+for the sake of argument, that there had originally existed some Puritan
+body which condemned the frivolity of ribbons though not of buttons. I
+was going to say of badges but not buttons; but on reflection I cannot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>
+bring myself to believe that any American, however insane, would object
+to wearing badges. But the point is that as the holy spirit of
+progressive prophesy rested on the first sect because it had invented a
+new objection to ribbons, so that holy spirit would then pass from it to
+the new sect who invented a further objection to buttons. And from them
+it must inevitably pass to any rebel among them who shall choose to rise
+and say that he disapproves of trousers because of the existence of
+trouser-buttons. Each secession in turn must be right because it is
+recent, and progress must progress by growing smaller and smaller. That
+is the progressive theory, the legacy of seventeenth-century
+sectarianism, the dogma implied in much modern politics, and the evident
+enemy of democracy. Democracy is reproached with saying that the
+majority is always right. But progress says that the minority is always
+right. Progressives are prophets; and fortunately not all the people are
+prophets. Thus in the atmosphere of this slowly dying sectarianism
+anybody who chooses to prophesy and prohibit can tyrannise over the
+people. If he chooses to say that drinking is always wrong, or that
+kissing is always wrong, or that wearing buttons is always wrong, people
+are afraid to contradict him for fear they should be contradicting their
+own great-grandchild. For their superstition is an inversion of the
+ancestor-worship of China; and instead of vainly appealing to something
+that is dead, they appeal to something that may never be born.</p>
+
+<p>There is another cause of this strange servile disease in American
+democracy. It is to be found in American feminism, and feminist America
+is an entirely different thing from feminine America. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> should say that
+the overwhelming majority of American girls laugh at their female
+politicians at least as much as the majority of American men despise
+their male politicians. But though the aggressive feminists are a
+minority, they are in this atmosphere which I have tried to analyse; the
+atmosphere in which there is a sort of sanctity about the minority. And
+it is this superstition of seriousness that constitutes the most solid
+obstacle and exception to the general and almost conventional pressure
+of public opinion. When a fad is frankly felt to be anti-national, as
+was Abolitionism before the Civil War, or Pro-Germanism in the Great
+War, or the suggestion of racial admixture in the South at all times,
+then the fad meets far less mercy than anywhere else in the world; it is
+snowed under and swept away. But when it does not thus directly
+challenge patriotism or popular ideas, a curious halo of hopeful
+solemnity surrounds it, merely because it is a fad, but above all if it
+is a feminine fad. The earnest lady-reformer who really utters a warning
+against the social evil of beer or buttons is seen to be walking clothed
+in light, like a prophetess. Perhaps it is something of the holy aureole
+which the East sees shining around an idiot.</p>
+
+<p>But I think there is another explanation, feminine rather than feminist,
+and proceeding from normal women and not from abnormal idiots. It is
+something that involves an old controversy, but one upon which I have
+not, like so many politicians, changed my opinion. It concerns the
+particular fashion in which women tend to regard, or rather to
+disregard, the formal and legal rights of the citizen. In so far as this
+is a bias, it is a bias in the directly opposite direction from that now
+lightly alleged. There is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> sort of underbred history going about,
+according to which women in the past have always been in the position of
+slaves. It is much more to the point to note that women have always been
+in the position of despots. They have been despotic because they ruled
+in an area where they had too much common sense to attempt to be
+constitutional. You cannot grant a constitution to a nursery; nor can
+babies assemble like barons and extort a Great Charter. Tommy cannot
+plead a Habeas Corpus against going to bed; and an infant cannot be
+tried by twelve other infants before he is put in the corner. And as
+there can be no laws or liberties in a nursery, the extension of
+feminism means that there shall be no more laws or liberties in a state
+than there are in a nursery. The woman does not really regard men as
+citizens but as children. She may, if she is a humanitarian, love all
+mankind; but she does not respect it. Still less does she respect its
+votes. Now a man must be very blind nowadays not to see that there is a
+danger of a sort of amateur science or pseudo-science being made the
+excuse for every trick of tyranny and interference. Anybody who is not
+an anarchist agrees with having a policeman at the corner of the street;
+but the danger at present is that of finding the policeman half-way down
+the chimney or even under the bed. In other words, it is a danger of
+turning the policeman into a sort of benevolent burglar. Against this
+protests are already being made, and will increasingly be made, if men
+retain any instinct of independence or dignity at all. But to complain
+of the woman interfering in the home will always sound like complaining
+of the oyster intruding into the oyster-shell. To object that she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> has
+too much power over education will seem like objecting to a hen having
+too much to do with eggs. She has already been given an almost
+irresponsible power over a limited region in these things; and if that
+power is made infinite it will be even more irresponsible. If she adds
+to her own power in the family all these alien fads external to the
+family, her power will not only be irresponsible but insane. She will be
+something which may well be called a nightmare of the nursery; a mad
+mother. But the point is that she will be mad about other nurseries as
+well as her own, or possibly instead of her own. The results will be
+interesting; but at least it is certain that under this softening
+influence government of the people, by the people, for the people, will
+most assuredly perish from the earth.</p>
+
+<p>But there is always another possibility. Hints of it may be noted here
+and there like muffled gongs of doom. The other day some people
+preaching some low trick or other, for running away from the glory of
+motherhood, were suddenly silenced in New York; by a voice of deep and
+democratic volume. The prigs who potter about the great plains are
+pygmies dancing round a sleeping giant. That which sleeps, so far as
+they are concerned, is the huge power of human unanimity and intolerance
+in the soul of America. At present the masses in the Middle West are
+indifferent to such fancies or faintly attracted by them, as fashions of
+culture from the great cities. But any day it may not be so; some
+lunatic may cut across their economic rights or their strange and buried
+religion; and then he will see something. He will find himself running
+like a nigger who has wronged a white woman or a man who has set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> the
+prairie on fire. He will see something which the politicians fan in its
+sleep and flatter with the name of the people, which many reactionaries
+have cursed with the name of the mob, but which in any case has had
+under its feet the crowns of many kings. It was said that the voice of
+the people is the voice of God; and this at least is certain, that it
+can be the voice of God to the wicked. And the last antics of their
+arrogance shall stiffen before something enormous, such as towers in the
+last words that Job heard out of the whirlwind; and a voice they never
+knew shall tell them that his name is Leviathan, and he is lord over all
+the children of pride.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_Extraordinary_American" id="The_Extraordinary_American"></a><i>The Extraordinary American</i></h2>
+
+<p>When I was in America I had the feeling that it was far more foreign
+than France or even than Ireland. And by foreign I mean fascinating
+rather than repulsive. I mean that element of strangeness which marks
+the frontier of any fairyland, or gives to the traveller himself the
+almost eerie title of the stranger. And I saw there more clearly than in
+countries counted as more remote from us, in race or religion, a paradox
+that is one of the great truths of travel.</p>
+
+<p>We have never even begun to understand a people until we have found
+something that we do not understand. So long as we find the character
+easy to read, we are reading into it our own character. If when we see
+an event we can promptly provide an explanation, we may be pretty
+certain that we had ourselves prepared the explanation before we saw the
+event. It follows from this that the best picture of a foreign people
+can probably be found in a puzzle picture. If we can find an event of
+which the meaning is really dark to us, it will probably throw some
+light on the truth. I will therefore take from my American experiences
+one isolated incident, which certainly could not have happened in any
+other country I have ever clapped eyes on. I have really no notion of
+what it meant. I have heard even from Americans about five different
+conjectures about its meaning. But though I do not understand it, I do
+sincerely<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> believe that if I did understand it, I should understand
+America.</p>
+
+<p>It happened in the city of Oklahoma, which would require a book to
+itself, even considered as a background. The State of Oklahoma is a
+district in the south-west recently reclaimed from the Red Indian
+territory. What many, quite incorrectly, imagine about all America is
+really true of Oklahoma. It is proud of having no history. It is glowing
+with the sense of having a great future&mdash;and nothing else. People are
+just as likely to boast of an old building in Nashville as in Norwich;
+people are just as proud of old families in Boston as in Bath. But in
+Oklahoma the citizens do point out a colossal structure, arrogantly
+affirming that it wasn't there last week. It was against the colours of
+this crude stage scenery, as of a pantomime city of pasteboard, that the
+fantastic figure appeared which still haunts me like a walking note of
+interrogation. I was strolling down the main street of the city, and
+looking in at a paper-stall vivid with the news of crime, when a
+stranger addressed me; and asked me, quite politely but with a curious
+air of having authority to put the question, what I was doing in that
+city.</p>
+
+<p>He was a lean brown man, having rather the look of a shabby tropical
+traveller, with a grey moustache and a lively and alert eye. But the
+most singular thing about him was that the front of his coat was covered
+with a multitude of shining metallic emblems made in the shape of stars
+and crescents. I was well accustomed by this time to Americans adorning
+the lapels of their coats with little symbols of various societies; it
+is a part of the American passion for the ritual of comradeship. There
+is nothing that an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> American likes so much as to have a secret society
+and to make no secret of it. But in this case, if I may put it so, the
+rash of symbolism seemed to have broken out all over the man, in a
+fashion that indicated that the fever was far advanced. Of this minor
+mystery, however, his first few sentences offered a provisional
+explanation. In answer to his question, touching my business in
+Oklahoma, I replied with restraint that I was lecturing. To which he
+replied without restraint, but rather with an expansive and radiant
+pride, 'I also am lecturing. I am lecturing on astronomy.'</p>
+
+<p>So far a certain wild rationality seemed to light up the affair. I knew
+it was unusual, in my own country, for the Astronomer Royal to walk down
+the Strand with his coat plastered all over with the Solar System.
+Indeed, it was unusual for any English astronomical lecturer to
+advertise the subject of his lectures in this fashion. But though it
+would be unusual, it would not necessarily be unreasonable. In fact, I
+think it might add to the colour and variety of life, if specialists did
+adopt this sort of scientific heraldry. I should like to be able to
+recognise an entomologist at sight by the decorative spiders and
+cockroaches crawling all over his coat and waistcoat. I should like to
+see a conchologist in a simple costume of shells. An osteopath, I
+suppose, would be agreeably painted so as to resemble a skeleton, while
+a botanist would enliven the street with the appearance of a
+Jack-in-the-Green. So while I regarded the astronomical lecturer in the
+astronomical coat as a figure distinguishable, by a high degree of
+differentiation, from the artless astronomers of my island home (enough
+their simple loveliness for me) I saw in him nothing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> illogical, but
+rather an imaginative extreme of logic. And then came another turn of
+the wheel of topsy-turvydom, and all the logic was scattered to the
+wind.</p>
+
+<p>Expanding his starry bosom and standing astraddle, with the air of one
+who owned the street, the strange being continued, 'Yes, I am lecturing
+on astronomy, anthropology, archaeology, palaeontology, embryology,
+eschatology,' and so on in a thunderous roll of theoretical sciences
+apparently beyond the scope of any single university, let alone any
+single professor. Having thus introduced himself, however, he got to
+business. He apologised with true American courtesy for having
+questioned me at all, and excused it on the ground of his own exacting
+responsibilities. I imagined him to mean the responsibility of
+simultaneously occupying the chairs of all the faculties already
+mentioned. But these apparently were trifles to him, and something far
+more serious was clouding his brow.</p>
+
+<p>'I feel it to be my duty,' he said, 'to acquaint myself with any
+stranger visiting this city; and it is an additional pleasure to welcome
+here a member of the Upper Ten.' I assured him earnestly that I knew
+nothing about the Upper Ten, except that I did not belong to them; I
+felt, not without alarm, that the Upper Ten might be another secret
+society. He waved my abnegation aside and continued, 'I have a great
+responsibility in watching over this city. My friend the mayor and I
+have a great responsibility.' And then an extraordinary thing happened.
+Suddenly diving his hand into his breast-pocket, he flashed something
+before my eyes like a hand-mirror; something which disappeared again<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>
+almost as soon as it appeared. In that flash I could only see that it
+was some sort of polished metal plate, with some letters engraved on it
+like a monogram. But the reward of a studious and virtuous life, which
+has been spent chiefly in the reading of American detective stories,
+shone forth for me in that hour of trial; I received at last the prize
+of a profound scholarship in the matter of imaginary murders in
+tenth-rate magazines. I remembered who it was who in the Yankee
+detective yarn flashes before the eyes of Slim Jim or the Lone Hand
+Crook a badge of metal sometimes called a shield. Assuming all the
+desperate composure of Slim Jim himself, I replied, 'You mean you are
+connected with the police authorities here, don't you? Well, if I commit
+a murder here, I'll let you know.' Whereupon that astonishing man waved
+a hand in deprecation, bowed in farewell with the grace of a dancing
+master; and said, 'Oh, those are not things we expect from members of
+the Upper Ten.'</p>
+
+<p>Then that moving constellation moved away, disappearing in the dark
+tides of humanity, as the vision passed away down the dark tides from
+Sir Galahad and, starlike, mingled with the stars.</p>
+
+<p>That is the problem I would put to all Americans, and to all who claim
+to understand America. Who and what was that man? Was he an astronomer?
+Was he a detective? Was he a wandering lunatic? If he was a lunatic who
+thought he was an astronomer, why did he have a badge to prove he was a
+detective? If he was a detective pretending to be an astronomer, why did
+he tell a total stranger that he was a detective two minutes after
+saying he was an astronomer? If he wished to watch over the city in a
+quiet and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> unobtrusive fashion, why did he blazon himself all over with
+all the stars of the sky, and profess to give public lectures on all the
+subjects of the world? Every wise and well-conducted student of murder
+stories is acquainted with the notion of a policeman in plain clothes.
+But nobody could possibly say that this gentleman was in plain clothes.
+Why not wear his uniform, if he was resolved to show every stranger in
+the street his badge? Perhaps after all he had no uniform; for these
+lands were but recently a wild frontier rudely ruled by vigilance
+committees. Some Americans suggested to me that he was the Sheriff; the
+regular hard-riding, free-shooting Sheriff of Bret Harte and my
+boyhood's dreams. Others suggested that he was an agent of the Ku-Klux
+Klan, that great nameless revolution of the revival of which there were
+rumours at the time; and that the symbol he exhibited was theirs. But
+whether he was a sheriff acting for the law, or a conspirator against
+the law, or a lunatic entirely outside the law, I agree with the former
+conjectures upon one point. I am perfectly certain he had something else
+in his pocket besides a badge. And I am perfectly certain that under
+certain circumstances he would have handled it instantly, and shot me
+dead between the gay bookstall and the crowded trams. And that is the
+last touch to the complexity; for though in that country it often seems
+that the law is made by a lunatic, you never know when the lunatic may
+not shoot you for keeping it. Only in the presence of that citizen of
+Oklahoma I feel I am confronted with the fullness and depth of the
+mystery of America. Because I understand nothing, I recognise the thing
+that we call a nation; and I salute the flag.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p><p>But even in connection with this mysterious figure there is a moral
+which affords another reason for mentioning him. Whether he was a
+sheriff or an outlaw, there was certainly something about him that
+suggested the adventurous violence of the old border life of America;
+and whether he was connected with the police or no, there was certainly
+violence enough in his environment to satisfy the most ardent policeman.
+The posters in the paper-shop were placarded with the verdict in the
+Hamon trial; a <i>cause c&eacute;l&egrave;bre</i> which reached its crisis in Oklahoma
+while I was there. Senator Hamon had been shot by a girl whom he had
+wronged, and his widow demanded justice, or what might fairly be called
+vengeance. There was very great excitement culminating in the girl's
+acquittal. Nor did the Hamon case appear to be entirely exceptional in
+that breezy borderland. The moment the town had received the news that
+Clara Smith was free, newsboys rushed down the street shouting, 'Double
+stabbing outrage near Oklahoma,' or 'Banker's throat cut on Main
+Street,' or otherwise resuming their regular mode of life. It seemed as
+much as to say, 'Do not imagine that our local energies are exhausted in
+shooting a Senator,' or 'Come, now, the world is young, even if Clara
+Smith is acquitted, and the enthusiasm of Oklahoma is not yet cold.'</p>
+
+<p>But my particular reason for mentioning the matter is this. Despite my
+friend's mystical remarks about the Upper Ten, he lived in an atmosphere
+of something that was at least the very reverse of a respect for
+persons. Indeed, there was something in the very crudity of his social
+compliment that smacked, strangely enough, of that egalitarian soil. In
+a vaguely <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>aristocratic country like England, people would never dream
+of telling a total stranger that he was a member of the Upper Ten. For
+one thing, they would be afraid that he might be. Real snobbishness is
+never vulgar; for it is intended to please the refined. Nobody licks the
+boots of a duke, if only because the duke does not like his boots
+cleaned in that way. Nobody embraces the knees of a marquis, because it
+would embarrass that nobleman. And nobody tells him he is a member of
+the Upper Ten, because everybody is expected to know it. But there is a
+much more subtle kind of snobbishness pervading the atmosphere of any
+society trial in England. And the first thing that struck me was the
+total absence of that atmosphere in the trial at Oklahoma. Mr. Hamon was
+presumably a member of the Upper Ten, if there is such a thing. He was a
+member of the Senate or Upper House in the American Parliament; he was a
+millionaire and a pillar of the Republican party, which might be called
+the respectable party; he is said to have been mentioned as a possible
+President. And the speeches of Clara Smith's counsel, who was known by
+the delightfully Oklahomite title of Wild Bill McLean, were wild enough
+in all conscience; but they left very little of my friend's illusion
+that members of the Upper Ten could not be accused of crimes. Nero and
+Borgia were quite presentable people compared with Senator Hamon when
+Wild Bill McLean had done with him. But the difference was deeper, and
+even in a sense more delicate than this. There is a certain tone about
+English trials, which does at least begin with a certain scepticism
+about people prominent in public life being abominable in private life.
+People do vaguely doubt the criminality of 'a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> man in that position';
+that is, the position of the Marquise de Brinvilliers or the Marquis de
+Sade. <i>Prima facie</i>, it would be an advantage to the Marquis de Sade
+that he was a marquis. But it was certainly against Hamon that he was a
+millionaire. Wild Bill did not minimise him as a bankrupt or an
+adventurer; he insisted on the solidity and size of his fortune, he made
+mountains out of the 'Hamon millions,' as if they made the matter much
+worse; as indeed I think they do. But that is because I happen to share
+a certain political philosophy with Wild Bill and other wild buffaloes
+of the prairies. In other words, there is really present here a
+democratic instinct against the domination of wealth. It does not
+prevent wealth from dominating; but it does prevent the domination from
+being regarded with any affection or loyalty. Despite the man in the
+starry coat, the Americans have not really any illusions about the Upper
+Ten. McLean was appealing to an implicit public opinion when he pelted
+the Senator with his gold.</p>
+
+<p>But something more is involved. I became conscious, as I have been
+conscious in reading the crime novels of America, that the millionaire
+was taken as a type and not an individual. This is the great difference;
+that America recognises rich crooks as a <i>class</i>. Any Englishman might
+recognise them as individuals. Any English romance may turn on a crime
+in high life; in which the baronet is found to have poisoned his wife,
+or the elusive burglar turns out to be the bishop. But the English are
+not always saying, either in romance or reality, 'What's to be done, if
+our food is being poisoned by all these baronets?' They do not murmur in
+indignation, 'If bishops will go on burgling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> like this, something must
+be done.' The whole point of the English romance is the exceptional
+character of a crime in high life. That is not the tone of American
+novels or American newspapers or American trials like the trial in
+Oklahoma. Americans may be excited when a millionaire crook is caught,
+as when any other crook is caught; but it is at his being caught, not at
+his being discovered. To put the matter shortly, England recognises a
+criminal class at the bottom of the social scale. America also
+recognises a criminal class at the top of the social scale. In both, for
+various reasons, it may be difficult for the criminals to be convicted;
+but in America the upper class of criminals is recognised. In both
+America and England, of course, it exists.</p>
+
+<p>This is an assumption at the back of the American mind which makes a
+great difference in many ways; and in my opinion a difference for the
+better. I wrote merely fancifully just now about bishops being burglars;
+but there is a story in New York, illustrating this, which really does
+in a sense attribute a burglary to a bishop. The story was that an
+Anglican Lord Spiritual, of the pompous and now rather antiquated
+school, was pushing open the door of a poor American tenement with all
+the placid patronage of the squire and rector visiting the cottagers,
+when a gigantic Irish policeman came round the corner and hit him a
+crack over the head with a truncheon on the assumption that he was a
+house-breaker. I hope that those who laugh at the story see that the
+laugh is not altogether against the policeman; and that it is not only
+the policeman, but rather the bishop, who had failed to recognise some
+fine logical distinctions. The bishop, being a learned man, might well
+be called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> upon (when he had sufficiently recovered from the knock on
+the head) to define what is the exact difference between a house-breaker
+and a home-visitor; and why the home-visitor should not be regarded as a
+house-breaker when he will not behave as a guest. An impartial
+intelligence will be much less shocked at the policeman's disrespect for
+the home-visitor than by the home-visitor's disrespect for the home.</p>
+
+<p>But that story smacks of the western soil, precisely because of the
+element of brutality there is in it. In England snobbishness and social
+oppression are much subtler and softer; the manifestations of them at
+least are more mellow and humane. In comparison there is indeed
+something which people call ruthless about the air of America,
+especially the American cities. The bishop may push open the door
+without an apology, but he would not break open the door with a
+truncheon; but the Irish policeman's truncheon hits both ways. It may be
+brutal to the tenement dweller as well as to the bishop; but the
+difference and distinction is that it might really be brutal to the
+bishop. It is because there is after all, at the back of all that
+barbarism, a sort of a negative belief in the brotherhood of men, a dark
+democratic sense that men are really men and nothing more, that the
+coarse and even corrupt bureaucracy is not resented exactly as
+oligarchic bureaucracies are resented. There is a sense in which
+corruption is not so narrow as nepotism. It is upon this queer cynical
+charity, and even humility, that it has been possible to rear so high
+and uphold so long that tower of brass, Tammany Hall. The modern police
+system is in spirit the most inhuman in history,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> and its evil belongs
+to an age and not to a nation. But some American police methods are evil
+past all parallel; and the detective can be more crooked than a hundred
+crooks. But in the States it is not only possible that the policeman is
+worse than the convict, it is by no means certain that he thinks that he
+is any better. In the popular stories of O. Henry there are light
+allusions to tramps being kicked out of hotels which will make any
+Christian seek relief in strong language and a trust in heaven&mdash;not to
+say in hell. And yet books even more popular than O. Henry's are those
+of the 'sob-sisterhood' who swim in lachrymose lakes after love-lorn
+spinsters, who pass their lives in reclaiming and consoling such tramps.
+There are in this people two strains of brutality and sentimentalism
+which I do not understand, especially where they mingle; but I am fairly
+sure they both work back to the dim democratic origin. The Irish
+policeman does not confine himself fastidiously to bludgeoning bishops;
+his truncheon finds plenty of poor people's heads to hit; and yet I
+believe on my soul he has a sort of sympathy with poor people not to be
+found in the police of more aristocratic states. I believe he also reads
+and weeps over the stories of the spinsters and the reclaimed tramps; in
+fact, there is much of such pathos in an American magazine (my sole
+companion on many happy railway journeys) which is not only devoted to
+detective stories, but apparently edited by detectives. In these stories
+also there is the honest, popular astonishment at the Upper Ten
+expressed by the astronomical detective, if indeed he was a detective
+and not a demon from the dark Red-Indian forests that faded to the
+horizon behind him. But I have set him as the head and text<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> of this
+chapter because with these elements of the Third Degree of devilry and
+the Seventh Heaven of sentimentalism I touch on elements that I do not
+understand; and when I do not understand, I say so.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_Republican_in_the_Ruins" id="The_Republican_in_the_Ruins"></a><i>The Republican in the Ruins</i></h2>
+
+<p>The heathen in his blindness bows down to wood and stone; especially to
+a wood-cut or a lithographic stone. Modern people put their trust in
+pictures, especially scientific pictures, as much as the most
+superstitious ever put it in religious pictures. They publish a portrait
+of the Missing Link as if he were the Missing Man, for whom the police
+are always advertising; for all the world as if the anthropoid had been
+photographed before he absconded. The scientific diagram may be a
+hypothesis; it may be a fancy; it may be a forgery. But it is always an
+idol in the true sense of an image; and an image in the true sense of a
+thing mastering the imagination and not the reason. The power of these
+talismanic pictures is almost hypnotic to modern humanity. We can never
+forget that we have seen a portrait of the Missing Link; though we
+should instantly detect the lapse of logic into superstition, if we were
+told that the old Greek agnostics had made a statue of the Unknown God.
+But there is a still stranger fashion in which we fall victims to the
+same trick of fancy. We accept in a blind and literal spirit, not only
+images of speculation, but even figures of speech. The nineteenth
+century prided itself on having lost its faith in myths, and proceeded
+to put all its faith in metaphors. It dismissed the old doctrines about
+the way of life and the light of the world; and then it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> proceeded to
+talk as if the light of truth were really and literally a light, that
+could be absorbed by merely opening our eyes; or as if the path of
+progress were really and truly a path, to be found by merely following
+our noses. Thus the purpose of God is an idea, true or false; but the
+purpose of Nature is merely a metaphor; for obviously if there is no God
+there is no purpose. Yet while men, by an imaginative instinct, spoke of
+the purpose of God with a grand agnosticism, as something too large to
+be seen, something reaching out to worlds and to eternities, they speak
+of the purpose of Nature in particular and practical problems of curing
+babies or cutting up rabbits. This power of the modern metaphor must be
+understood, by way of an introduction, if we are to understand one of
+the chief errors, at once evasive and pervasive, which perplex the
+problem of America.</p>
+
+<p>America is always spoken of as a young nation; and whether or no this be
+a valuable and suggestive metaphor, very few people notice that it is a
+metaphor at all. If somebody said that a certain deserving charity had
+just gone into trousers, we should recognise that it was a figure of
+speech, and perhaps a rather surprising figure of speech. If somebody
+said that a daily paper had recently put its hair up, we should know it
+could only be a metaphor, and possibly a rather strained metaphor. Yet
+these phrases would mean the only thing that can possibly be meant by
+calling a corporate association of all sorts of people 'young'; that is,
+that a certain institution has only existed for a certain time. I am not
+now denying that such a corporate nationality may happen to have a
+psychology comparatively analogous to the psychology<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> of youth. I am not
+even denying that America has it. I am only pointing out, to begin with,
+that we must free ourselves from the talismanic tyranny of a metaphor
+which we do not recognise as a metaphor. Men realised that the old
+mystical doctrines were mystical; they do not realise that the new
+metaphors are metaphorical. They have some sort of hazy notion that
+American society must be growing, must be promising, must have the
+virtues of hope or the faults of ignorance, merely <i>because</i> it has only
+had a separate existence since the eighteenth century. And that is
+exactly like saying that a new chapel must be growing taller, or that a
+limited liability company will soon have its second teeth.</p>
+
+<p>Now in truth this particular conception of American hopefulness would be
+anything but hopeful for America. If the argument really were, as it is
+still vaguely supposed to be, that America must have a long life before
+it, because it only started in the eighteenth century, we should find a
+very fatal answer by looking at the other political systems that did
+start in the eighteenth century. The eighteenth century was called the
+Age of Reason; and there is a very real sense in which the other systems
+were indeed started in a spirit of reason. But starting from reason has
+not saved them from ruin. If we survey the Europe of to-day with real
+clarity and historic comprehension, we shall see that it is precisely
+the most recent and the most rationalistic creations that have been
+ruined. The two great States which did most definitely and emphatically
+deserve to be called modern states were Prussia and Russia. There was no
+real Prussia before Frederick the Great; no real Russian Empire before
+Peter the Great. Both those innovators recognised<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> themselves as
+rationalists bringing a new reason and order into an indeterminate
+barbarism; and doing for the barbarians what the barbarians could not do
+for themselves. They did not, like the kings of England or France or
+Spain or Scotland, inherit a sceptre that was the symbol of a historic
+and patriotic people. In this sense there was no Russia but only an
+Emperor of Russia. In this sense Prussia was a kingdom before it was a
+nation; if it ever was a nation. But anyhow both men were particularly
+modern in their whole mood and mind. They were modern to the extent of
+being not only anti-traditional, but almost anti-patriotic. Peter forced
+the science of the West on Russia to the regret of many Russians.
+Frederick talked the French of Voltaire and not the German of Luther.
+The two experiments were entirely in the spirit of Voltairean
+rationalism; they were built in broad daylight by men who believed in
+nothing but the light of common day; and already their day is done.</p>
+
+<p>If then the promise of America were in the fact that she is one of the
+latest births of progress, we should point out that it is exactly the
+latest born that were the first to die. If in this sense she is praised
+as young, it may be answered that the young have died young, and have
+not lived to be old. And if this be confused with the argument that she
+came in an age of clarity and scepticism, uncontaminated by old
+superstitions, it could still be retorted that the works of superstition
+have survived the works of scepticism. But the truth is, of course, that
+the real quality of America is much more subtle and complex than this;
+and is mixed not only of good and bad, and rational and mystical, but
+also of old and new. That is what<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> makes the task of tracing the true
+proportions of American life so interesting and so impossible.</p>
+
+<p>To begin with, such a metaphor is always as distracting as a mixed
+metaphor. It is a double-edged tool that cuts both ways; and
+consequently opposite ways. We use the same word 'young' to mean two
+opposite extremes. We mean something at an early stage of growth, and
+also something having the latest fruits of growth. We might call a
+commonwealth young if it conducted all its daily conversation by
+wireless telegraphy; meaning that it was progressive. But we might also
+call it young if it conducted all its industry with chipped flints;
+meaning that it was primitive. These two meanings of youth are
+hopelessly mixed up when the word is applied to America. But what is
+more curious, the two elements really are wildly entangled in America.
+America is in some ways what is called in advance of the times, and in
+some ways what is called behind the times; but it seems a little
+confusing to convey both notions by the same word.</p>
+
+<p>On the one hand, Americans often are successful in the last inventions.
+And for that very reason they are often neglectful of the last but one.
+It is true of men in general, dealing with things in general, that while
+they are progressing in one thing, such as science, they are going back
+in another thing, such as art. What is less fully realised is that this
+is true even as between different methods of science. The perfection of
+wireless telegraphy might well be followed by the gross imperfection of
+wires. The very enthusiasm of American science brings this out very
+vividly. The telephone in New York works miracles all day long. Replies
+from remote places come as promptly as in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> private talk; nobody cuts
+anybody off; nobody says, 'Sorry you've been troubled.' But then the
+postal service of New York does not work at all. At least I could never
+discover it working. Letters lingered in it for days and days, as in
+some wild village of the Pyrenees. When I asked a taxi-driver to drive
+me to a post-office, a look of far-off vision and adventure came into
+his eyes, and he said he had once heard of a post-office somewhere near
+West Ninety-Seventh Street. Men are not efficient in everything, but
+only in the fashionable thing. This may be a mark of the march of
+science; it does certainly in one sense deserve the description of
+youth. We can imagine a very young person forgetting the old toy in the
+excitement of a new one.</p>
+
+<p>But on the other hand, American manners contain much that is called
+young in the contrary sense; in the sense of an earlier stage of
+history. There are whole patches and particular aspects that seem to me
+quite Early Victorian. I cannot help having this sensation, for
+instance, about the arrangement for smoking in the railway carriages.
+There are no smoking carriages, as a rule; but a corner of each of the
+great cars is curtained off mysteriously, that a man may go behind the
+curtain and smoke. Nobody thinks of a woman doing so. It is regarded as
+a dark, bohemian, and almost brutally masculine indulgence; exactly as
+it was regarded by the dowagers in Thackeray's novels. Indeed, this is
+one of the many such cases in which extremes meet; the extremes of
+stuffy antiquity and cranky modernity. The American dowager is sorry
+that tobacco was ever introduced; and the American suffragette and
+social reformer is considering whether tobacco ought not to be
+abolished.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> The tone of American society suggests some sort of
+compromise, by which women will be allowed to smoke, but men forbidden
+to do so.</p>
+
+<p>In one respect, however, America is very old indeed. In one respect
+America is more historic than England; I might almost say more
+archaeological than England. The record of one period of the past,
+morally remote and probably irrevocable, is there preserved in a more
+perfect form as a pagan city is preserved at Pompeii. In a more general
+sense, of course, it is easy to exaggerate the contrast as a mere
+contrast between the old world and the new. There is a superficial
+satire about the millionaire's daughter who has recently become the wife
+of an aristocrat; but there is a rather more subtle satire in the
+question of how long the aristocrat has been aristocratic. There is
+often much misplaced mockery of a marriage between an upstart's daughter
+and a decayed relic of feudalism; when it is really a marriage between
+an upstart's daughter and an upstart's grandson. The sentimental
+socialist often seems to admit the blue blood of the nobleman, even when
+he wants to shed it; just as he seems to admit the marvellous brains of
+the millionaire, even when he wants to blow them out. Unfortunately (in
+the interests of social science, of course) the sentimental socialist
+never does go so far as bloodshed or blowing out brains; otherwise the
+colour and quality of both blood and brains would probably be a
+disappointment to him. There are certainly more American families that
+really came over in the <i>Mayflower</i> than English families that really
+came over with the Conqueror; and an English county family clearly
+dating from the time of the <i>Mayflower</i> would be considered a very
+traditional and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> historic house. Nevertheless, there are ancient things
+in England, though the aristocracy is hardly one of them. There are
+buildings, there are institutions, there are even ideas in England which
+do preserve, as in a perfect pattern, some particular epoch of the past,
+and even of the remote past. A man could study the Middle Ages in
+Lincoln as well as in Rouen; in Canterbury as well as in Cologne. Even
+of the Renaissance the same is true, at least on the literary side; if
+Shakespeare was later he was also greater than Ronsard. But the point is
+that the spirit and philosophy of the periods were present in fullness
+and in freedom. The guildsmen were as Christian in England as they were
+anywhere; the poets were as pagan in England as they were anywhere.
+Personally I do not admit that the men who served patrons were freer
+than those who served patron saints. But each fashion had its own kind
+of freedom; and the point is that the English, in each case, had the
+fullness of that kind of freedom. But there was another ideal of freedom
+which the English never had at all; or, anyhow, never expressed at all.
+There was another ideal, the soul of another epoch, round which we built
+no monuments and wrote no masterpieces. You will find no traces of it in
+England; but you will find them in America.</p>
+
+<p>The thing I mean was the real religion of the eighteenth century. Its
+religion, in the more defined sense, was generally Deism, as in
+Robespierre or Jefferson. In the more general way of morals and
+atmosphere it was rather Stoicism, as in the suicide of Wolfe Tone. It
+had certain very noble and, as some would say, impossible ideals; as
+that a politician should be poor, and should be proud of being poor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> It
+knew Latin; and therefore insisted on the strange fancy that the
+Republic should be a public thing. Its Republican simplicity was
+anything but a silly pose; unless all martyrdom is a silly pose. Even of
+the prigs and fanatics of the American and French Revolutions we can
+often say, as Stevenson said of an American, that 'thrift and courage
+glowed in him.' And its virtue and value for us is that it did remember
+the things we now most tend to forget; from the dignity of liberty to
+the danger of luxury. It did really believe in self-determination, in
+the self-determination of the self, as well as of the state. And its
+determination was really determined. In short, it believed in
+self-respect; and it is strictly true even of its rebels and regicides
+that they desired chiefly to be respectable. But there were in it the
+marks of religion as well as respectability; it had a creed; it had a
+crusade. Men died singing its songs; men starved rather than write
+against its principles. And its principles were liberty, equality, and
+fraternity, or the dogmas of the Declaration of Independence. This was
+the idea that redeemed the dreary negations of the eighteenth century;
+and there are still corners of Philadelphia or Boston or Baltimore where
+we can feel so suddenly in the silence its plain garb and formal
+manners, that the walking ghost of Jefferson would hardly surprise us.</p>
+
+<p>There is not the ghost of such a thing in England. In England the real
+religion of the eighteenth century never found freedom or scope. It
+never cleared a space in which to build that cold and classic building
+called the Capitol. It never made elbow-room for that free if sometimes
+frigid figure called the Citizen.</p>
+
+<p>In eighteenth-century England he was crowded out,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> partly perhaps by the
+relics of better things of the past, but largely at least by the
+presence of much worse things in the present. The worst things kept out
+the best things of the eighteenth century. The ground was occupied by
+legal fictions; by a godless Erastian church and a powerless Hanoverian
+king. Its realities were an aristocracy of Regency dandies, in costumes
+made to match Brighton Pavilion; a paganism not frigid but florid. It
+was a touch of this aristocratic waste in Fox that prevented that great
+man from being a glorious exception. It is therefore well for us to
+realise that there is something in history which we did not experience;
+and therefore probably something in Americans that we do not understand.
+There was this idealism at the very beginning of their individualism.
+There was a note of heroic publicity and honourable poverty which
+lingers in the very name of Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>But I have another and special reason for noting this historical fact;
+the fact that we English never made anything upon the model of a
+capitol, while we can match anybody with the model of a cathedral. It is
+far from improbable that the latter model may again be a working model.
+For I have myself felt, naturally and for a long time, a warm sympathy
+with both those past ideals, which seem to some so incompatible. I have
+felt the attraction of the red cap as well as the red cross, of the
+Marseillaise as well as the Magnificat. And even when they were in
+furious conflict I have never altogether lost my sympathy for either.
+But in the conflict between the Republic<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> the Church, the point
+often made against the Church seems to me much more of a point against
+the Republic. It is emphatically the Republic and not the Church that I
+venerate as something beautiful but belonging to the past. In fact I
+feel exactly the same sort of sad respect for the republican ideal that
+many mid-Victorian free-thinkers felt for the religious ideal. The most
+sincere poets of that period were largely divided between those who
+insisted, like Arnold and Clough, that Christianity might be a ruin, but
+after all it must be treated as a picturesque ruin; and those, like
+Swinburne, who insisted that it might be a picturesque ruin, but after
+all it must be treated as a ruin. But surely their own pagan temple of
+political liberty is now much more of a ruin than the other; and I fancy
+I am one of the few who still take off their hats in that ruined temple.
+That is why I went about looking for the fading traces of that lost
+cause, in the old-world atmosphere of the new world.</p>
+
+<p>But I do not, as a fact, feel that the cathedral is a ruin; I doubt if I
+should feel it even if I wished to lay it in ruins. I doubt if Mr.
+M'Cabe really thinks that Catholicism is dying, though he might deceive
+himself into saying so. Nobody could be naturally moved to say that the
+crowded cathedral of St. Patrick in New York was a ruin, or even that
+the unfinished Anglo-Catholic cathedral at Washington was a ruin, though
+it is not yet a church; or that there is anything lost or lingering
+about the splendid and spirited Gothic churches springing up under the
+inspiration of Mr. Cram of Boston. As a matter of feeling, as a matter
+of fact, as a matter quite apart from theory or opinion, it is not in
+the religious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> centres that we now have the feeling of something
+beautiful but receding, of something loved but lost. It is exactly in
+the spaces cleared and levelled by America for the large and sober
+religion of the eighteenth century; it is where an old house in
+Philadelphia contains an old picture of Franklin, or where the men of
+Maryland raised above their city the first monument of Washington. It is
+there that I feel like one who treads alone some banquet hall deserted,
+whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead, and all save he departed. It
+is then that I feel as if I were the last Republican.</p>
+
+<p>But when I say that the Republic of the Age of Reason is now a ruin, I
+should rather say that at its best it is a ruin. At its worst it has
+collapsed into a death-trap or is rotting like a dunghill. What is the
+real Republic of our day as distinct from the ideal Republic of our
+fathers, but a heap of corrupt capitalism crawling with worms; with
+those parasites, the professional politicians? I was re-reading
+Swinburne's bitter but not ignoble poem, 'Before a Crucifix,' in which
+he bids Christ, or the ecclesiastical image of Christ, stand out of the
+way of the onward march of a political idealism represented by United
+Italy or the French Republic. I was struck by the strange and ironic
+exactitude with which every taunt he flings at the degradation of the
+old divine ideal would now fit the degradation of his own human ideal.
+The time has already come when we can ask his Goddess of Liberty, as
+represented by the actual Liberals, 'Have <i>you</i> filled full men's
+starved-out souls; have <i>you</i> brought freedom on the earth?' For every
+engine in which these old free-thinkers firmly and confidently trusted
+has itself become an engine of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> oppression and even of class oppression.
+Its free parliament has become an oligarchy. Its free press has become a
+monopoly. If the pure Church has been corrupted in the course of two
+thousand years, what about the pure Republic that has rotted into a
+filthy plutocracy in less than a hundred?</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>O, hidden face of man, whereover</div>
+<div>The years have woven a viewless veil,</div>
+<div>If thou wert verily man's lover</div>
+<div>What did thy love or blood avail?</div>
+<div>Thy blood the priests make poison of;</div>
+<div>And in gold shekels coin thy love.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Which has most to do with shekels to-day, the priests or the
+politicians? Can we say in any special sense nowadays that clergymen, as
+such, make a poison out of the blood of the martyrs? Can we say it in
+anything like the real sense, in which we do say that yellow journalists
+make a poison out of the blood of the soldiers?</p>
+
+<p>But I understand how Swinburne felt when confronted by the image of the
+carven Christ, and, perplexed by the contrast between its claims and its
+consequences, he said his strange farewell to it, hastily indeed, but
+not without regret, not even really without respect. I felt the same
+myself when I looked for the last time on the Statue of Liberty.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> In the conclusion of this chapter I mean by the Republic
+not merely the American Republic, but the whole modern representative
+system, as in France or even in England.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Is_the_Atlantic_Narrowing" id="Is_the_Atlantic_Narrowing"></a><i>Is the Atlantic Narrowing?</i></h2>
+
+<p>A certain kind of question is asked very earnestly in our time. Because
+of a certain logical quality in it, connected with premises and data, it
+is very difficult to answer. Thus people will ask what is the hidden
+weakness in the Celtic race that makes them everywhere fail or fade
+away; or how the Germans contrived to bring all their organisation into
+a state of such perfect efficiency; and what was the significance of the
+recent victory of Prussia. Or they will ask by what stages the modern
+world has abandoned all belief in miracles; and the modern newspapers
+ceased to print any news of murders. They will ask why English politics
+are free from corruption; or by what mental and moral training certain
+millionaires were enabled to succeed by sheer force of character; in
+short, they will ask why plutocrats govern well and how it is that pigs
+fly, spreading their pink pinions to the breeze or delighting us as they
+twitter and flutter from tree to tree. The logical difficulty of
+answering these questions is connected with an old story about Charles
+the Second and a bowl of goldfish, and with another anecdote about a
+gentleman who was asked, 'When did you leave off beating your wife?' But
+there is something analogous to it in the present discussions about the
+forces drawing England and America together. It seems as if the
+reasoners hardly went far enough back in their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> argument, or took
+trouble enough to disentangle their assumptions. They are still moving
+with the momentum of the peculiar nineteenth-century notion of progress;
+of certain very simple tendencies perpetually increasing and needing no
+special analysis. It is so with the international <i>rapprochement</i> I have
+to consider here.</p>
+
+<p>In other places I have ventured to express a doubt about whether nations
+can be drawn together by an ancient rumour about races; by a sort of
+prehistoric chit-chat or the gossip of the Stone Age. I have ventured
+farther; and even expressed a doubt about whether they ought to be drawn
+together, or rather dragged together, by the brute violence of the
+engines of science and speed. But there is yet another horrible doubt
+haunting my morbid mind, which it will be better for my constitution to
+confess frankly. And that is the doubt about whether they are being
+drawn together at all.</p>
+
+<p>It has long been a conversational commonplace among the enlightened that
+all countries are coming closer and closer to each other. It was a
+conversational commonplace among the enlightened, somewhere about the
+year 1913, that all wars were receding farther and farther into a
+barbaric past. There is something about these sayings that seems simple
+and familiar and entirely satisfactory when we say them; they are of
+that consoling sort which we can say without any of the mental pain of
+thinking what we are saying. But if we turn our attention from the
+phrases we use to the facts that we talk about, we shall realise at
+least that there are a good many facts on the other side and examples
+pointing the other way. For instance, it does happen occasionally, from
+time to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> time, that people talk about Ireland. He would be a very
+hilarious humanitarian who should maintain that Ireland and England have
+been more and more assimilated during the last hundred years. The very
+name of Sinn Fein is an answer to it, and the very language in which
+that phrase is spoken. Curran and Sheil would no more have dreamed of
+uttering the watchword of 'Repeal' in Gaelic than of uttering it in
+Zulu. Grattan could hardly have brought himself to believe that the real
+repeal of the Union would actually be signed in London in the strange
+script as remote as the snaky ornament of the Celtic crosses. It would
+have seemed like Washington signing the Declaration of Independence in
+the picture-writing of the Red Indians. Ireland has clearly grown away
+from England; and her language, literature, and type of patriotism are
+far less English than they were. On the other hand, no one will pretend
+that the mass of modern Englishmen are much nearer to talking Gaelic or
+decorating Celtic crosses. A hundred years ago it was perfectly natural
+that Byron and Moore should walk down the street arm in arm. Even the
+sight of Mr. Rudyard Kipling and Mr. W. B. Yeats walking down the street
+arm in arm would now arouse some remark.</p>
+
+<p>I could give any number of other examples of the same new estrangement
+of nations. I could cite the obvious facts that Norway and Sweden parted
+company not very long ago, that Austria and Hungary have again become
+separate states. I could point to the mob of new nations that have
+started up after the war; to the fact that the great empires are now
+nearly all broken up; that the Russian Empire no longer directs Poland,
+that the Austrian Empire no longer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> directs Bohemia, that the Turkish
+Empire no longer directs Palestine. Sinn Fein is the separatism of the
+Irish. Zionism is the separatism of the Jews. But there is one simple
+and sufficing example, which is here more to my purpose, and is at least
+equally sufficient for it. And that is the deepening national difference
+between the Americans and the English.</p>
+
+<p>Let me test it first by my individual experience in the matter of
+literature. When I was a boy I read a book like <i>The Autocrat of the
+Breakfast-Table</i> exactly as I read another book like <i>The Book of
+Snobs</i>. I did not think of it as an American book, but simply as a book.
+Its wit and idiom were like those of the English literary tradition; and
+its few touches of local colour seemed merely accidental, like those of
+an Englishman who happened to be living in Switzerland or Sweden. My
+father and my father's friends were rightly enthusiastic for the book;
+so that it seemed to come to me by inheritance like <i>Gulliver's Travels</i>
+or <i>Tristram Shandy</i>. Its language was as English as Ruskin, and a great
+deal more English than Carlyle. Well, I have seen in later years an
+almost equally wide and well-merited popularity of the stories of O.
+Henry. But never for one moment could I or any one else reading them
+forget that they were stories by an American about America. The very
+first fact about them is that they are told with an American accent,
+that is, in the unmistakable tones of a brilliant and fascinating
+foreigner. And the same is true of every other recent work of which the
+fame has managed to cross the Atlantic. We did not say that <i>The Spoon
+River Anthology</i> was a new book, but that it was a new book from
+America. It was exactly as if a remarkable realistic novel was reported
+from Russia or Italy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> We were in no danger of confusing it with the
+'Elegy in a Country Churchyard.' People in England who heard of Main
+Street were not likely to identify it with a High Street; with the
+principal thoroughfare in any little town in Berkshire or
+Buckinghamshire. But when I was a boy I practically identified the
+boarding-house of the Autocrat with any boarding-house I happened to
+know in Brompton or Brighton. No doubt there were differences; but the
+point is that the differences did not pierce the consciousness or prick
+the illusion. I said to myself, 'People are like this in
+boarding-houses,' not 'People are like this in Boston.'</p>
+
+<p>This can be seen even in the simple matter of language, especially in
+the sense of slang. Take, for instance, the delightful sketch in the
+causerie of Oliver Wendell Holmes; the character of the young man called
+John. He is the very modern type in every modern country who does
+specialise in slang. He is the young fellow who is something in the
+City; the everyday young man of the Gilbertian song, with a stick and a
+pipe and a half-bred black-and-tan. In every country he is at once witty
+and commonplace. In every country, therefore, he tends both to the
+vivacity and the vulgarity of slang. But when he appeared in Holmes's
+book, his language was not very different from what it would have been
+in a Brighton instead of a Boston boarding-house; or, in short, if the
+young man called John had more commonly been called 'Arry. If he had
+appeared in a modern American book, his language would have been almost
+literally unintelligible. At the least an Englishman would have had to
+read some of the best sentences twice, as he sometimes has to read the
+dizzy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> and involved metaphors of O. Henry. Nor is it an answer that this
+depended on the personalities of the particular writers. A comparison
+between the real journalism of the time of Holmes and the real
+journalism of the time of Henry reveals the same thing. It is the
+expansion of a slight difference of style into a luxuriant difference of
+idiom; and the process continued indefinitely would certainly produce a
+totally different language. After a few centuries the signatures of
+American ambassadors would look as fantastic as Gaelic, and the very
+name of the Republic be as strange as Sinn Fein.</p>
+
+<p>It is true that there has been on the surface a certain amount of give
+and take; or at least, as far as the English are concerned, of take
+rather than give. But it is true that it was once all the other way; and
+indeed the one thing is something like a just nemesis of the other.
+Indeed, the story of the reversal is somewhat singular, when we come to
+think of it. It began in a certain atmosphere and spirit of certain
+well-meaning people who talked about the English-speaking race; and were
+apparently indifferent to how the English was spoken, whether in the
+accent of a Jamaican negro or a convict from Botany Bay. It was their
+logical tendency to say that Dante was a Dago. It was their logical
+punishment to say that Disraeli was an Englishman. Now there may have
+been a period when this Anglo-American amalgamation included more or
+less equal elements from England and America. It never included the
+larger elements, or the more valuable elements of either. But, on the
+whole, I think it true to say that it was not an allotment but an
+interchange of parts; and that things first went all one way and then
+all the other.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span> People began by telling the Americans that they owed all
+their past triumphs to England; which was false. They ended up by
+telling the English that they would owe all their future triumphs to
+America; which is if possible still more false. Because we chose to
+forget that New York had been New Amsterdam, we are now in danger of
+forgetting that London is not New York. Because we insisted that Chicago
+was only a pious imitation of Chiswick, we may yet see Chiswick an
+inferior imitation of Chicago. Our Anglo-Saxon historians attempted that
+conquest in which Howe and Burgoyne had failed, and with infinitely less
+justification on their side. They attempted the great crime of the
+Anglicisation of America. They have called down the punishment of the
+Americanisation of England. We must not murmur; but it is a heavy
+punishment.</p>
+
+<p>It may lift a little of its load, however, if we look at it more
+closely; we shall then find that though it is very much on top of us, it
+is only on top. In that sense such Americanisation as there is is very
+superficial. For instance, there is a certain amount of American slang
+picked up at random; it appears in certain pushing types of journalism
+and drama. But we may easily dwell too much on this tragedy; of people
+who have never spoken English beginning to speak American. I am far from
+suggesting that American, like any other foreign language, may not
+frequently contribute to the common culture of the world phrases for
+which there is no substitute; there are French phrases so used in
+England and English phrases in France. The word 'high-brow,' for
+instance, is a real discovery and revelation, a new and necessary name
+for something that walked <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>nameless but enormous in the modern world, a
+shaft of light and a stroke of lightning. That comes from America and
+belongs to the world, as much as 'The Raven' or <i>The Scarlet Letter</i> or
+the novels of Henry James belong to the world. In fact, I can imagine
+Henry James originating it in the throes of self-expression, and
+bringing out a word like 'high-browed,' with a sort of gentle jerk, at
+the end of searching sentences which groped sensitively until they found
+the phrase. But most of the American slang that is borrowed seems to be
+borrowed for no particular reason. It either has no point or the point
+is lost by translation into another context and culture. It is either
+something which does not need any grotesque and exaggerative
+description, or of which there already exists a grotesque and
+exaggerative description more native to our tongue and soil. For
+instance, I cannot see that the strong and simple expression 'Now it is
+for you to pull the police magistrate's nose' is in any way strengthened
+by saying, 'Now it is up to you to pull the police magistrate's nose.'
+When Tennyson says of the men of the Light Brigade 'Theirs but to do and
+die,' the expression seems to me perfectly lucid. 'Up to them to do and
+die' would alter the metre without especially clarifying the meaning.
+This is an example of ordinary language being quite adequate; but there
+is a further difficulty that even wild slang comes to sound like
+ordinary language. Very often the English have already as humorous and
+fanciful idiom of their own, only that through habit it has lost its
+humour. When Keats wrote the line, 'What pipes and timbrels, what wild
+ecstasy!' I am willing to believe that the American humorist would have
+expressed the same<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> sentiment by beginning the sentence with 'Some
+pipe!' When that was first said, somewhere in the wilds of Colorado, it
+was really funny; involving a powerful understatement and the suggestion
+of a mere sample. If a spinster has informed us that she keeps a bird,
+and we find it is an ostrich, there will be considerable point in the
+Colorado satirist saying inquiringly, 'Some bird?' as if he were
+offering us a small slice of a small plover. But if we go back to this
+root and rationale of a joke, the English language already contains
+quite as good a joke. It is not necessary to say, 'Some bird'; there is
+a far finer irony in the old expression, 'Something like a bird.' It
+suggests that the speaker sees something faintly and strangely birdlike
+about a bird; that it remotely and almost irrationally reminds him of a
+bird; and that there is about ostrich plumes a yard long something like
+the faint and delicate traces of a feather. It has every quality of
+imaginative irony, except that nobody even imagines it to be ironical.
+All that happens is that people get tired of that turn of phrase, take
+up a foreign phrase and get tired of that, without realising the point
+of either. All that happens is that a number of weary people who used to
+say, 'Something like a bird,' now say, 'Some bird,' with undiminished
+weariness. But they might just as well use dull and decent English; for
+in both cases they are only using jocular language without seeing the
+joke.</p>
+
+<p>There is indeed a considerable trade in the transplantation of these
+American jokes to England just now. They generally pine and die in our
+climate, or they are dead before their arrival; but we cannot be certain
+that they were never alive. There is a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> sort of unending frieze or
+scroll of decorative designs unrolled ceaselessly before the British
+public, about a hen-pecked husband, which is indistinguishable to the
+eye from an actual self-repeating pattern like that of the Greek Key,
+but which is imported as if it were as precious and irreplaceable as the
+Elgin Marbles. Advertisement and syndication make mountains out of the
+most funny little mole-hills; but no doubt the mole-hills are
+picturesque enough in their own landscape. In any case there is nothing
+so national as humour; and many things, like many people, can be
+humorous enough when they are at home. But these American jokes are
+boomed as solemnly as American religions; and their supporters gravely
+testify that they are funny, without seeing the fun of it for a moment.
+This is partly perhaps the spirit of spontaneous institutionalism in
+American democracy, breaking out in the wrong place. They make humour an
+institution; and a man will be set to tell an anecdote as if to play the
+violin. But when the story is told in America it really is amusing; and
+when these jokes are reprinted in England they are often not even
+intelligible. With all the stupidity of the millionaire and the
+monopolist, the enterprising proprietor prints jokes in England which
+are necessarily unintelligible to nearly every English person; jokes
+referring to domestic and local conditions quite peculiar to America. I
+saw one of these narrative caricatures the other day in which the whole
+of the joke (what there was of it) turned on the astonishment of a
+housewife at the absurd notion of not having an ice-box. It is perfectly
+true that nearly every ordinary American housewife possesses an ice-box.
+An ordinary English <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>housewife would no more expect to possess an
+ice-box than to possess an iceberg. And it would be about as sensible to
+tow an iceberg to an English port all the way from the North Pole, as to
+trail that one pale and frigid joke to Fleet Street all the way from the
+New York papers. It is the same with a hundred other advertisements and
+adaptations. I have already confessed that I took a considerable delight
+in the dancing illuminations of Broadway&mdash;in Broadway. Everything there
+is suitable to them, the vast interminable thoroughfare, the toppling
+houses, the dizzy and restless spirit of the whole city. It is a city of
+dissolving views, and one may almost say a city in everlasting
+dissolution. But I do not especially admire a burning fragment of
+Broadway stuck up opposite the old Georgian curve of Regent Street. I
+would as soon express sympathy with the Republic of Switzerland by
+erecting a small Alp, with imitation snow, in the middle of St. James's
+Park.</p>
+
+<p>But all this commercial copying is very superficial; and above all, it
+never copies anything that is really worth copying. Nations never
+<i>learn</i> anything from each other in this way. We have many things to
+learn from America; but we only listen to those Americans who have still
+to learn them. Thus, for instance, we do not import the small farm but
+only the big shop. In other words, we hear nothing of the democracy of
+the Middle West, but everything of the plutocracy of the middleman, who
+is probably as unpopular in the Middle West as the miller in the Middle
+Ages. If Mr. Elihu K. Pike could be transplanted bodily from the
+neighbourhood of his home town of Marathon, Neb., with his farm and his
+frame-house and all its fittings, and they could be set down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> exactly in
+the spot now occupied by Selfridge's (which could be easily cleared away
+for the purpose), I think we could really get a great deal of good by
+watching him, even if the watching were inevitably a little too like
+watching a wild beast in a cage or an insect under a glass case. Urban
+crowds could collect every day behind a barrier or railing, and gaze at
+Mr. Pike pottering about all day in his ancient and autochthonous
+occupations. We could see him growing Indian corn with all the gravity
+of an Indian; though it is impossible to imagine Mrs. Pike blessing the
+cornfield in the manner of Minnehaha. As I have said, there is a certain
+lack of humane myth and mysticism about this Puritan peasantry. But we
+could see him transforming the maize into pop-corn, which is a very
+pleasant domestic ritual and pastime, and is the American equivalent of
+the glory of roasting chestnuts. Above all, many of us would learn for
+the first time that a man can really live and walk about upon something
+more productive than a pavement; and that when he does so he can really
+be a free man, and have no lord but the law. Instead of that, America
+can give nothing to London but those multiple modern shops, of which it
+has too many already. I know that many people entertain the innocent
+illusion that big shops are more efficient than small ones; but that is
+only because the big combinations have the monopoly of advertisement as
+well as trade. The big shop is not in the least remarkable for
+efficiency; it is only too big to be blamed for its inefficiency. It is
+secure in its reputation for always sacking the wrong man. A big shop,
+considered as a place to shop in, is simply a village of small shops
+roofed in to keep out the light and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> air; and one in which none of the
+shopkeepers is really responsible for his shop. If any one has any
+doubts on this matter, since I have mentioned it, let him consider this
+fact: that in practice we never do apply this method of commercial
+combination to anything that matters very much. We do not go to the
+surgical department of the Stores to have a portion of our brain removed
+by a delicate operation; and then pass on to the advocacy department to
+employ one or any of its barristers, when we are in temporary danger of
+being hanged. We go to men who own their own tools and are responsible
+for the use of their own talents. And the same truth applies to that
+other modern method of advertisement, which has also so largely fallen
+across us like the gigantic shadow of America. Nations do not arm
+themselves for a mortal struggle by remembering which sort of submarine
+they have seen most often on the hoardings. They can do it about
+something like soap, precisely because a nation will not perish by
+having a second-rate sort of soap, as it might by having a second-rate
+sort of submarine. A nation may indeed perish slowly by having a
+second-rate sort of food or drink or medicine; but that is another and
+much longer story, and the story is not ended yet. But nobody wins a
+great battle at a great crisis because somebody has told him that
+Cadgerboy's Cavalry Is the Best. It may be that commercial enterprise
+will eventually cover these fields also, and advertisement-agents will
+provide the instruments of the surgeon and the weapons of the soldier.
+When that happens, the armies will be defeated and the patients will
+die. But though we modern people are indeed patients, in the sense of
+being merely receptive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> and accepting things with astonishing patience,
+we are not dead yet; and we have lingering gleams of sanity.</p>
+
+<p>For the best things do not travel. As I appear here as a traveller, I
+may say with all modesty that the best people do not travel either. Both
+in England and America the normal people are the national people; and I
+repeat that I think they are growing more and more national. I do not
+think the abyss is being bridged by cosmopolitan theories; and I am sure
+I do not want it bridged by all this slang journalism and blatant
+advertisement. I have called all that commercial publicity the gigantic
+shadow of America. It may be the shadow of America, but it is not the
+light of America. The light lies far beyond, a level light upon the
+lands of sunset, where it shines upon wide places full of a very simple
+and a very happy people; and those who would see it must seek for it.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Lincoln_and_Lost_Causes" id="Lincoln_and_Lost_Causes"></a><i>Lincoln and Lost Causes</i></h2>
+
+<p>It has already been remarked here that the English know a great deal
+about past American literature, but nothing about past American history.
+They do not know either, of course, as well as they know the present
+American advertising, which is the least important of the three. But it
+is worth noting once more how little they know of the history, and how
+illogically that little is chosen. They have heard, no doubt, of the
+fame and the greatness of Henry Clay. He is a cigar. But it would be
+unwise to cross-examine any Englishman, who may be consuming that luxury
+at the moment, about the Missouri Compromise or the controversies with
+Andrew Jackson. And just as the statesman of Kentucky is a cigar, so the
+state of Virginia is a cigarette. But there is perhaps one exception, or
+half-exception, to this simple plan. It would perhaps be an exaggeration
+to say that Plymouth Rock is a chicken. Any English person keeping
+chickens, and chiefly interested in Plymouth Rocks considered as
+chickens, would nevertheless have a hazy sensation of having seen the
+word somewhere before. He would feel subconsciously that the Plymouth
+Rock had not always been a chicken. Indeed, the name connotes something
+not only solid but antiquated; and is not therefore a very tactful name
+for a chicken. There would rise up before him something memorable in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>
+the haze that he calls his history; and he would see the history books
+of his boyhood and old engravings of men in steeple-crowned hats
+struggling with sea-waves or Red Indians. The whole thing would suddenly
+become clear to him if (by a simple reform) the chickens were called
+Pilgrim Fathers.</p>
+
+<p>Then he would remember all about it. The Pilgrim Fathers were champions
+of religious liberty; and they discovered America. It is true that he
+has also heard of a man called Christopher Columbus; but that was in
+connection with an egg. He has also heard of somebody known as Sir
+Walter Raleigh; and though his principal possession was a cloak, it is
+also true that he had a potato, not to mention a pipe of tobacco. Can it
+be possible that he brought it from Virginia, where the cigarettes come
+from? Gradually the memories will come back and fit themselves together
+for the average hen-wife who learnt history at the English elementary
+schools, and who has now something better to do. Even when the narrative
+becomes consecutive, it will not necessarily become correct. It is not
+strictly true to say that the Pilgrim Fathers discovered America. But it
+is quite as true as saying that they were champions of religious
+liberty. If we said that they were martyrs who would have died
+heroically in torments rather than tolerate any religious liberty, we
+should be talking something like sense about them, and telling the real
+truth that is their due. The whole Puritan movement, from the Solemn
+League and Covenant to the last stand of the last Stuarts, was a
+struggle <i>against</i> religious toleration, or what they would have called
+religious indifference. The first religious equality on earth was
+established by a Catholic cavalier in Maryland. Now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> there is nothing in
+this to diminish any dignity that belongs to any real virtues and
+virilities in the Pilgrim Fathers; on the contrary, it is rather to the
+credit of their consistency and conviction. But there is no doubt that
+the note of their whole experiment in New England was intolerance, and
+even inquisition. And there is no doubt that New England was then only
+the newest and not the oldest of these colonial experiments. At least
+two Cavaliers had been in the field before any Puritans. And they had
+carried with them much more of the atmosphere and nature of the normal
+Englishman than any Puritan could possibly carry. They had established
+it especially in Virginia, which had been founded by a great Elizabethan
+and named after the great Elizabeth. Before there was any New England in
+the North, there was something very like Old England in the South.
+Relatively speaking, there is still.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever the anniversary of the <i>Mayflower</i> comes round, there is a
+chorus of Anglo-American congratulation and comradeship, as if this at
+least were a matter on which all can agree. But I knew enough about
+America, even before I went there, to know that there are a good many
+people there at any rate who do not agree with it. Long ago I wrote a
+protest in which I asked why Englishmen had forgotten the great state of
+Virginia, the first in foundation and long the first in leadership; and
+why a few crabbed Nonconformists should have the right to erase a record
+that begins with Raleigh and ends with Lee, and incidentally includes
+Washington. The great state of Virginia was the backbone of America
+until it was broken in the Civil War. From Virginia came the first great
+Presidents and most of the Fathers of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> Republic. Its adherence to
+the Southern side in the war made it a great war, and for a long time a
+doubtful war. And in the leader of the Southern armies it produced what
+is perhaps the one modern figure that may come to shine like St. Louis
+in the lost battle, or Hector dying before holy Troy.</p>
+
+<p>Again, it is characteristic that while the modern English know nothing
+about Lee they do know something about Lincoln; and nearly all that they
+know is wrong. They know nothing of his Southern connections, nothing of
+his considerable Southern sympathy, nothing of the meaning of his
+moderation in face of the problem of slavery, now lightly treated as
+self-evident. Above all, they know nothing about the respect in which
+Lincoln was quite un-English, was indeed the very reverse of English;
+and can be understood better if we think of him as a Frenchman, since it
+seems so hard for some of us to believe that he was an American. I mean
+his lust for logic for its own sake, and the way he kept mathematical
+truths in his mind like the fixed stars. He was so far from being a
+merely practical man, impatient of academic abstractions, that he
+reviewed and revelled in academic abstractions, even while he could not
+apply them to practical life. He loved to repeat that slavery was
+intolerable while he tolerated it, and to prove that something ought to
+be done while it was impossible to do it. This was probably very
+bewildering to his brother-politicians; for politicians always whitewash
+what they do not destroy. But for all that this inconsistent consistency
+beat the politicians at their own game, and this abstracted logic proved
+the most practical of all. For when the chance did come to do something,
+there was no doubt about the thing to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> done. The thunderbolt fell
+from the clear heights of heaven; it had not been tossed about and lost
+like a common missile in the market-place. The matter is worth
+mentioning, because it has a moral for a much larger modern question. A
+wise man's attitude towards industrial capitalism will be very like
+Lincoln's attitude towards slavery. That is, he will manage to endure
+capitalism; but he will not endure a defence of capitalism. He will
+recognise the value, not only of knowing what he is doing, but of
+knowing what he would like to do. He will recognise the importance of
+having a thing clearly labelled in his own mind as bad, long before the
+opportunity comes to abolish it. He may recognise the risk of even worse
+things in immediate abolition, as Lincoln did in abolitionism. He will
+not call all business men brutes, any more than Lincoln would call all
+planters demons; because he knows they are not. He will regard many
+alternatives to capitalism as crude and inhuman, as Lincoln regarded
+John Brown's raid; because they are. But he will clear his <i>mind</i> from
+cant about capitalism; he will have no doubt of what is the truth about
+Trusts and Trade Combines and the concentration of capital; and it is
+the truth that they endure under one of the ironic silences of heaven,
+over the pageants and the passing triumphs of hell.</p>
+
+<p>But the name of Lincoln has a more immediate reference to the
+international matters I am considering here. His name has been much
+invoked by English politicians and journalists in connection with the
+quarrel with Ireland. And if we study the matter, we shall hardly admire
+the tact and sagacity of those journalists and politicians.</p>
+
+<p>History is an eternal tangle of cross-purposes; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> we could not take a
+clearer case, or rather a more complicated case, of such a tangle, than
+the facts lying behind a political parallel recently mentioned by many
+politicians. I mean the parallel between the movement for Irish
+independence and the attempted secession of the Southern Confederacy in
+America. Superficially any one might say that the comparison is natural
+enough; and that there is much in common between the quarrel of the
+North and South in Ireland and the quarrel of the North and South in
+America. In both cases the South was on the whole agricultural, the
+North on the whole industrial. True, the parallel exaggerates the
+position of Belfast; to complete it we must suppose the whole Federal
+system to have consisted of Pittsburg. In both the side that was more
+successful was felt by many to be less attractive. In both the same
+political terms were used, such as the term 'Union' and 'Unionism.' An
+ordinary Englishman comes to America, knowing these main lines of
+American history, and knowing that the American knows the similar main
+lines of Irish history. He knows that there are strong champions of
+Ireland in America; possibly he also knows that there are very genuine
+champions of England in America. By every possible historical analogy,
+he would naturally expect to find the pro-Irish in the South and the
+pro-English in the North. As a matter of fact, he finds almost exactly
+the opposite. He finds Boston governed by Irishmen, and Nashville
+containing people more pro-English than Englishmen. He finds Virginians
+not only of British blood, like George Washington, but of British
+opinions almost worthy of George the Third.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span></p><p>But I do not say this, as will be seen in a moment, as a criticism of
+the comparative Toryism of the South. I say it as a criticism of the
+superlative stupidity of English propaganda. On another page I remark on
+the need for a new sort of English propaganda; a propaganda that should
+be really English and have some remote reference to England. Now if it
+were a matter of making foreigners feel the real humours and humanities
+of England, there are no Americans so able or willing to do it as the
+Americans of the Southern States. As I have already hinted, some of them
+are so loyal to the English humanities, that they think it their duty to
+defend even the English inhumanities. New England is turning into New
+Ireland. But Old England can still be faintly traced in Old Dixie. It
+contains some of the best things that England herself has had, and
+therefore (of course) the things that England herself has lost, or is
+trying to lose. But above all, as I have said, there are people in these
+places whose historic memories and family traditions really hold them to
+us, not by alliance but by affection. Indeed, they have the affection in
+spite of the alliance. They love us in spite of our compliments and
+courtesies and hands across the sea; all our ambassadorial salutations
+and speeches cannot kill their love. They manage even to respect us in
+spite of the shady Jew stockbrokers we send them as English envoys, or
+the 'efficient' men, who are sent out to be tactful with foreigners
+because they have been too tactless with trades unionists. This type of
+traditional American, North or South, really has some traditions
+connecting him with England; and though he is now in a very small
+minority, I cannot imagine why England should wish to make it smaller.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>
+England once sympathised with the South. The South still sympathises
+with England. It would seem that the South, or some elements in the
+South, had rather the advantage of us in political firmness and
+fidelity; but it does not follow that that fidelity will stand every
+shock. And at this moment, and in this matter, of all things in the
+world, our political propagandists must try to bolster British
+Imperialism up, by kicking Southern Secession when it is down. The
+English politicians eagerly point out that we shall be justified in
+crushing Ireland exactly as Sumner and Stevens crushed the most English
+part of America. It does not seem to occur to them that this comparison
+between the Unionist triumph in America and a Unionist triumph in
+Britain is rather hard upon our particular sympathisers, who did not
+triumph. When England exults in Lincoln's victory over his foes, she is
+exulting in his victory over her own friends. If her diplomacy continues
+as delicate and chivalrous as it is at present, they may soon be her
+only friends. England will be defending herself at the expense of her
+only defenders. But however this may be, it is as well to bear witness
+to some of the elements of my own experience; and I can answer for it,
+at least, that there are some people in the South who will not be
+pleased at being swept into the rubbish heap of history as rebels and
+ruffians; and who will not, I regret to say, by any means enjoy even
+being classed with Fenians and Sinn Feiners.</p>
+
+<p>Now touching the actual comparison between the conquest of the
+Confederacy and the conquest of Ireland, there are, of course, a good
+many things to be said which politicians cannot be expected to
+understand. Strange to say, it is not certain that a lost<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> cause was
+never worth winning; and it would be easy to argue that the world lost
+very much indeed when that particular cause was lost. These are not days
+in which it is exactly obvious that an agricultural society was more
+dangerous than an industrial one. And even Southern slavery had this one
+moral merit, that it was decadent; it has this one historic advantage,
+that it is dead. The Northern slavery, industrial slavery, or what is
+called wage slavery, is not decaying but increasing; and the end of it
+is not yet. But in any case, it would be well for us to realise that the
+reproach of resembling the Confederacy does not ring in all ears as an
+unanswerable condemnation. It is scarcely a self-evident or sufficient
+argument, to some hearers, even to prove that the English are as
+delicate and philanthropic as Sherman, still less that the Irish are as
+criminal and lawless as Lee. Nor will it soothe every single soul on the
+American continent to say that the English victory in Ireland will be
+followed by a reconstruction, like the reconstruction exhibited in the
+film called 'The Birth of a Nation.' And, indeed, there is a further
+inference from that fine panorama of the exploits of the Ku-Klux Klan.
+It would be easy, as I say, to turn the argument entirely in favour of
+the Confederacy. It would be easy to draw the moral, not that the
+Southern Irish are as wrong as the Southern States, but that the
+Southern States were as right as the Southern Irish. But upon the whole,
+I do not incline to accept the parallel in that sense any more than in
+the opposite sense. For reasons I have already given elsewhere, I do
+believe that in the main Abraham Lincoln was right. But right in what?</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p><p>If Lincoln was right, he was right in guessing that there was not
+really a Northern nation and a Southern nation, but only one American
+nation. And if he has been proved right, he has been proved right by the
+fact that men in the South, as well as the North, do now feel a
+patriotism for that American nation. His wisdom, if it really was
+wisdom, was justified not by his opponents being conquered, but by their
+being converted. Now, if the English politicians must insist on this
+parallel, they ought to see that the parallel is fatal to themselves.
+The very test which proved Lincoln right has proved them wrong. The very
+judgment which may have justified him quite unquestionably condemns
+them. We have again and again conquered Ireland, and have never come an
+inch nearer to converting Ireland. We have had not one Gettysburg, but
+twenty Gettysburgs; but we have had no Union. And that is where, as I
+have remarked, it is relevant to remember that flying fantastic vision
+on the films that told so many people what no histories have told them.
+I heard when I was in America rumours of the local reappearance of the
+Ku-Klux Klan; but the smallness and mildness of the manifestation, as
+compared with the old Southern or the new Irish case, is alone a
+sufficient example of the exception that proves the rule. To approximate
+to any resemblance to recent Irish events, we must imagine the Ku-Klux
+Klan riding again in more than the terrors of that vision, wild as the
+wind, white as the moon, terrible as an army with banners. If there were
+really such a revival of the Southern action, there would equally be a
+revival of the Southern argument. It would be clear that Lee was right
+and Lincoln was wrong; that the Southern States were national and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> were
+as indestructible as nations. If the South were as rebellious as
+Ireland, the North would be as wrong as England.</p>
+
+<p>But I desire a new English diplomacy that will exhibit, not the things
+in which England is wrong but the things in which England is right. And
+England is right in England, just as she is wrong in Ireland; and it is
+exactly that rightness of a real nation in itself that it is at once
+most difficult and most desirable to explain to foreigners. Now the
+Irishman, and to some extent the American, has remained alien to
+England, largely because he does not truly realise that the Englishman
+loves England, still less can he really imagine why the Englishman loves
+England. That is why I insist on the stupidity of ignoring and insulting
+the opinions of those few Virginians and other Southerners who really
+have some inherited notion of why Englishmen love England; and even love
+it in something of the same fashion themselves. Politicians who do not
+know the English spirit when they see it at home, cannot of course be
+expected to recognise it abroad. Publicists are eloquently praising
+Abraham Lincoln, for all the wrong reasons; but fundamentally for that
+worst and vilest of all reasons&mdash;that he succeeded. None of them seems
+to have the least notion of how to look for England in England; and they
+would see something fantastic in the figure of a traveller who found it
+elsewhere, or anywhere but in New England. And it is well, perhaps, that
+they have not yet found England where it is hidden in England; for if
+they found it, they would kill it.</p>
+
+<p>All I am concerned to consider here is the inevitable failure of this
+sort of Anglo-American propaganda to create a friendship. To praise
+Lincoln as an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span>Englishman is about as appropriate as if we were praising
+Lincoln as an English town. We are talking about something totally
+different. And indeed the whole conversation is rather like some such
+cross-purposes about some such word as 'Lincoln'; in which one party
+should be talking about the President and the other about the cathedral.
+It is like some wild bewilderment in a farce, with one man wondering how
+a President could have a church-spire, and the other wondering how a
+church could have a chin-beard. And the moral is the moral on which I
+would insist everywhere in this book; that the remedy is to be found in
+disentangling the two and not in entangling them further. You could not
+produce a democrat of the logical type of Lincoln merely out of the
+moral materials that now make up an English cathedral town, like that on
+which Old Tom of Lincoln looks down. But on the other hand, it is quite
+certain that a hundred Abraham Lincolns, working for a hundred years,
+could not build Lincoln Cathedral. And the farcical allegory of an
+attempt to make Old Tom and Old Abe embrace to the glory of the
+illogical Anglo-Saxon language is but a symbol of something that is
+always being attempted, and always attempted in vain. It is not by
+mutual imitation that the understanding can come. It is not by erecting
+New York sky-scrapers in London that New York can learn the sacred
+significance of the towers of Lincoln. It is not by English dukes
+importing the daughters of American millionaires that England can get
+any glimpse of the democratic dignity of American men. I have the best
+of all reasons for knowing that a stranger can be welcomed in America;
+and just as he is courteously treated in the country as a stranger,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> so
+he should always be careful to treat it as a strange land. That sort of
+imaginative respect, as for something different and even distant, is the
+only beginning of any attachment between patriotic peoples. The English
+traveller may carry with him at least one word of his own great language
+and literature; and whenever he is inclined to say of anything 'This is
+passing strange,' he may remember that it was no inconsiderable
+Englishman who appended to it the answer, 'And therefore as a stranger
+give it welcome.'</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Wells_and_the_World_State" id="Wells_and_the_World_State"></a><i>Wells and the World State</i></h2>
+
+<p>There was recently a highly distinguished gathering to celebrate the
+past, present, and especially future triumphs of aviation. Some of the
+most brilliant men of the age, such as Mr. H. G. Wells and Mr. J. L.
+Garvin, made interesting and important speeches, and many scientific
+aviators luminously discussed the new science. Among their graceful
+felicitations and grave and quiet analyses a word was said, or a note
+was struck, which I myself can never hear, even in the most harmless
+after-dinner speech, without an impulse to leap up and yell, and smash
+the decanters and wreck the dinner-table.</p>
+
+<p>Long ago, when I was a boy, I heard it with fury; and never since have I
+been able to understand any free man hearing it without fury. I heard it
+when Bloch, and the old prophets of pacifism by panic, preached that war
+would become too horrible for patriots to endure. It sounded to me like
+saying that an instrument of torture was being prepared by my dentist,
+that would finally cure me of loving my dog. And I felt it again when
+all these wise and well-meaning persons began to talk about the
+inevitable effect of aviation in bridging the Atlantic, and establishing
+alliance and affection between England and America.</p>
+
+<p>I resent the suggestion that a machine can make me bad. But I resent
+quite equally the suggestion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> that a machine can make me good. It might
+be the unfortunate fact that a coolness had arisen between myself and
+Mr. Fitzarlington Blenkinsop, inhabiting the suburban villa and garden
+next to mine; and I might even be largely to blame for it. But if
+somebody told me that a new kind of lawn-mower had just been invented,
+of so cunning a structure that I should be forced to become a
+bosom-friend of Mr. Blenkinsop whether I liked it or not, I should be
+very much annoyed. I should be moved to say that if that was the only
+way of cutting my grass I would not cut my grass, but continue to cut my
+neighbour. Or suppose the difference were even less defensible; suppose
+a man had suffered from a trifling shindy with his wife. And suppose
+somebody told him that the introduction of an entirely new
+vacuum-cleaner would compel him to a reluctant reconciliation with his
+wife. It would be found, I fancy, that human nature abhors that vacuum.
+Reasonably spirited human beings will not be ordered about by bicycles
+and sewing-machines; and a sane man will not be made good, let alone
+bad, by the things he has himself made. I have occasionally dictated to
+a typewriter, but I will not be dictated to by a typewriter, even of the
+newest and most complicated mechanism; nor have I ever met a typewriter,
+however complex, that attempted such a tyranny.</p>
+
+<p>Yet this and nothing else is what is implied in all such talk of the
+aeroplane annihilating distinctions as well as distances; and an
+international aviation abolishing nationalities. This and nothing else
+was really implied in one speaker's prediction that such aviation will
+almost necessitate an Anglo-American friendship. Incidentally, I may
+remark, it is not a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> true suggestion even in the practical and
+materialistic sense; and the speaker's phrase refuted the speaker's
+argument. He said that international relations must be more friendly
+when men can get from England to America in a day. Well, men can already
+get from England to Germany in a day; and the result was a mutual
+invitation of which the formalities lasted for five years. Men could get
+from the coast of England to the coast of France very quickly, through
+nearly all the ages during which those two coasts were bristling with
+arms against each other. They could get there very quickly when Nelson
+went down by that Burford Inn to embark for Trafalgar; they could get
+there very quickly when Napoleon sat in his tent in that camp at
+Boulogne that filled England with alarums of invasion. Are these the
+amiable and pacific relations which will unite England and America, when
+Englishmen can get to America in a day? The shortening of the distance
+seems quite as likely, so far as that argument goes, to facilitate that
+endless guerilla warfare which raged across the narrow seas in the
+Middle Ages; when French invaders carried away the bells of Rye, and the
+men of those flats of East Sussex gloriously pursued and recovered them.
+I do not know whether American privateers, landing at Liverpool, would
+carry away a few of the more elegant factory chimneys as a substitute
+for the superstitious symbols of the past. I know not if the English, on
+ripe reflection, would essay with any enthusiasm to get them back. But
+anyhow it is anything but self-evident that people cannot fight each
+other because they are near to each other; and if it were true, there
+would never have been any such thing as border warfare in the world. As
+a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> fact, border warfare has often been the one sort of warfare which it
+was most difficult to bring under control. And our own traditional
+position in face of this new logic is somewhat disconcerting. We have
+always supposed ourselves safer because we were insular and therefore
+isolated. We have been congratulating ourselves for centuries on having
+enjoyed peace because we were cut off from our neighbours. And now they
+are telling us that we shall only enjoy peace when we are joined up with
+our neighbours. We have pitied the poor nations with frontiers, because
+a frontier only produces fighting; and now we are trusting to a frontier
+as the only thing that will produce friendship. But, as a matter of
+fact, and for a far deeper and more spiritual reason, a frontier will
+not produce friendship. Only friendliness produces friendship. And we
+must look far deeper into the soul of man for the thing that produces
+friendliness.</p>
+
+<p>But apart from this fallacy about the facts, I feel, as I say, a strong
+abstract anger against the idea, or what some would call the ideal. If
+it were true that men could be taught and tamed by machines, even if
+they were taught wisdom or tamed to amiability, I should think it the
+most tragic truth in the world. A man so improved would be, in an
+exceedingly ugly sense, losing his soul to save it. But in truth he
+cannot be so completely coerced into good; and in so far as he is
+incompletely coerced, he is quite as likely to be coerced into evil. Of
+the financial characters who figure as philanthropists and philosophers
+in such cases, it is strictly true to say that their good is evil. The
+light in their bodies is darkness, and the highest objects of such men
+are the lowest objects of ordinary men. Their peace is mere safety,
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> friendship is mere trade; their international friendship is mere
+international trade. The best we can say of that school of capitalism is
+that it will be unsuccessful. It has every other vice, but it is not
+practical. It has at least the impossibility of idealism; and so far as
+remoteness can carry it, that Inferno is indeed a Utopia. All the
+visible manifestations of these men are materialistic; but at least
+their visions will not materialise. The worst we suffer; but the best we
+shall at any rate escape. We may continue to endure the realities of
+cosmopolitan capitalism; but we shall be spared its ideals.</p>
+
+<p>But I am not primarily interested in the plutocrats whose vision takes
+so vulgar a form. I am interested in the same thing when it takes a far
+more subtle form, in men of genius and genuine social enthusiasm like
+Mr. H. G. Wells. It would be very unfair to a man like Mr. Wells to
+suggest that in his vision the Englishman and the American are to
+embrace only in the sense of clinging to each other in terror. He is a
+man who understands what friendship is, and who knows how to enjoy the
+motley humours of humanity. But the political reconstruction which he
+proposes is too much determined by this old nightmare of
+necessitarianism. He tells us that our national dignities and
+differences must be melted into the huge mould of a World State, or else
+(and I think these are almost his own words) we shall be destroyed by
+the instruments and machinery we have ourselves made. In effect, men
+must abandon patriotism or they will be murdered by science. After this,
+surely no one can accuse Mr. Wells of an undue tenderness for scientific
+over other types of training. Greek may be a good thing or no; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>
+nobody says that if Greek scholarship is carried past a certain point,
+everybody will be torn in pieces like Orpheus, or burned up like Semele,
+or poisoned like Socrates. Philosophy, theology and logic may or may not
+be idle academic studies; but nobody supposes that the study of
+philosophy, or even of theology, ultimately forces its students to
+manufacture racks and thumb-screws against their will; or that even
+logicians need be so alarmingly logical as all that. Science seems to be
+the only branch of study in which people have to be waved back from
+perfection as from a pestilence. But my business is not with the
+scientific dangers which alarm Mr. Wells, but with the remedy he
+proposes for them; or rather with the relation of that remedy to the
+foundation and the future of America. Now it is not too much to say that
+Mr. Wells finds his model in America. The World State is to be the
+United States of the World. He answers almost all objections to the
+practicability of such a peace among states, by pointing out that the
+American States have such a peace, and by adding, truly enough, that
+another turn of history might easily have seen them broken up by war.
+The pattern of the World State is to be found in the New World.</p>
+
+<p>Oddly enough, as it seems to me, he proposes almost cosmic conquests for
+the American Constitution, while leaving out the most successful thing
+in that Constitution. The point appeared in answer to a question which
+many, like myself, must have put in this matter; the question of
+despotism and democracy. I cannot understand any democrat not seeing the
+danger of so distant and indirect a system of government. It is hard
+enough anywhere to get representatives to represent. It is hard enough
+to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> get a little town council to fulfil the wishes of a little town,
+even when the townsmen meet the town councillors every day in the
+street, and could kick them down the street if they liked. What the same
+town councillors would be like if they were ruling all their
+fellow-creatures from the North Pole or the New Jerusalem, is a vision
+of Oriental despotism beyond the towering fancies of Tamberlane. This
+difficulty in all representative government is felt everywhere, and not
+least in America. But I think that if there is one truth apparent in
+such a choice of evils, it is that monarchy is at least better than
+oligarchy; and that where we have to act on a large scale, the most
+genuine popularity can gather round a particular person like a Pope or a
+President of the United States, or even a dictator like Caesar or
+Napoleon, rather than round a more or less corrupt committee which can
+only be defined as an obscure oligarchy. And in that sense any oligarchy
+is obscure. For people to continue to trust twenty-seven men it is
+necessary, as a preliminary formality, that people should have heard of
+them. And there are no twenty-seven men of whom everybody has heard as
+everybody in France had heard of Napoleon, as all Catholics have heard
+of the Pope or all Americans have heard of the President. I think the
+mass of ordinary Americans do really elect their President; and even
+where they cannot control him at least they watch him, and in the long
+run they judge him. I think, therefore, that the American Constitution
+has a real popular institution in the Presidency. But Mr. Wells would
+appear to want the American Constitution without the Presidency. If I
+understand his words rightly, he seems to want the great democracy
+without its popular <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>institution. Alluding to this danger, that the
+World State might be a world tyranny, he seems to take tyranny entirely
+in the sense of autocracy. He asks whether the President of the World
+State would not be rather too tremendous a person, and seems to suggest
+in answer that there need not even be any such person. He seems to imply
+that the committee controlling the planet could meet almost without any
+one in the chair, certainly without any one on the throne. I cannot
+imagine anything more manifestly made to be a tyranny than such an
+acephalous aristocracy. But while Mr. Wells's decision seems to me
+strange, his reason for it seems to me still more extraordinary.</p>
+
+<p>He suggests that no such dictator will be needed in his World State
+because 'there will be no wars and no diplomacy.' A World State ought
+doubtless to go round the world; and going round the world seems to be a
+good training for arguing in a circle. Obviously there will be no wars
+and no war-diplomacy if something has the power to prevent them; and we
+cannot deduce that the something will not want any power. It is rather
+as if somebody, urging that the Germans could only be defeated by
+uniting the Allied commands under Marshal Foch, had said that after all
+it need not offend the British Generals because the French supremacy
+need only be a fiction, the Germans being defeated. We should naturally
+say that the German defeat would only be a reality because the Allied
+command was not a fiction. So the universal peace would only be a
+reality if the World State were not a fiction. And it could not be even
+a state if it were not a government. This argument amounts to saying,
+first that the World<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> State will be needed because it is strong, and
+then that it may safely be weak because it will not be needed.</p>
+
+<p>Internationalism is in any case hostile to democracy. I do not say it is
+incompatible with it; but any combination of the two will be a
+compromise between the two. The only purely popular government is local,
+and founded on local knowledge. The citizens can rule the city because
+they know the city; but it will always be an exceptional sort of citizen
+who has or claims the right to rule over ten cities, and these remote
+and altogether alien cities. All Irishmen may know roughly the same sort
+of things about Ireland; but it is absurd to say they all know the same
+things about Iceland, when they may include a scholar steeped in
+Icelandic sagas or a sailor who has been to Iceland. To make all
+politics cosmopolitan is to create an aristocracy of globe-trotters. If
+your political outlook really takes in the Cannibal Islands, you depend
+of necessity upon a superior and picked minority of the people who have
+been to the Cannibal Islands; or rather of the still smaller and more
+select minority who have come back.</p>
+
+<p>Given this difficulty about quite direct democracy over large areas, I
+think the nearest thing to democracy is despotism. At any rate I think
+it is some sort of more or less independent monarchy, such as Andrew
+Jackson created in America. And I believe it is true to say that the two
+men whom the modern world really and almost reluctantly regards with
+impersonal respect, as clothed by their office with something historic
+and honourable, are the Pope and the President of the United States.</p>
+
+<p>But to admire the United States as the United<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> States is one thing. To
+admire them as the World State is quite another. The attempt of Mr.
+Wells to make America a sort of model for the federation of all the free
+nations of the earth, though it is international in intention, is really
+as narrowly national, in the bad sense, as the desire of Mr. Kipling to
+cover the world with British Imperialism, or of Professor Treitschke to
+cover it with Prussian Pan-Germanism. Not being schoolboys, we no longer
+believe that everything can be settled by painting the map red. Nor do I
+believe it can be done by painting it blue with white spots, even if
+they are called stars. The insufficiency of British Imperialism does not
+lie in the fact that it has always been applied by force of arms. As a
+matter of fact, it has not. It has been effected largely by commerce, by
+colonisation of comparatively empty places, by geographical discovery
+and diplomatic bargain. Whether it be regarded as praise or blame, it is
+certainly the truth that among all the things that have called
+themselves empires, the British has been perhaps the least purely
+military, and has least both of the special guilt and the special glory
+that goes with militarism. The insufficiency of British Imperialism is
+not that it is imperial, let alone military. The insufficiency of
+British Imperialism is that it is British; when it is not merely Jewish.
+It is that just as a man is no more than a man, so a nation is no more
+than a nation; and any nation is inadequate as an international model.
+Any state looks small when it occupies the whole earth. Any polity is
+narrow as soon as it is as wide as the world. It would be just the same
+if Ireland began to paint the map green or Montenegro were to paint it
+black. The objection to spreading <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>anything all over the world is that,
+among other things, you have to spread it very thin.</p>
+
+<p>But America, which Mr. Wells takes as a model, is in another sense
+rather a warning. Mr. Wells says very truly that there was a moment in
+history when America might well have broken up into independent states
+like those of Europe. He seems to take it for granted that it was in all
+respects an advantage that this was avoided. Yet there is surely a case,
+however mildly we put it, for a certain importance in the world still
+attaching to Europe. There are some who find France as interesting as
+Florida; and who think they can learn as much about history and humanity
+in the marble cities of the Mediterranean as in the wooden towns of the
+Middle West. Europe may have been divided, but it was certainly not
+destroyed; nor has its peculiar position in the culture of the world
+been destroyed. Nothing has yet appeared capable of completely eclipsing
+it, either in its extension in America or its imitation in Japan. But
+the immediate point here is perhaps a more important one. There is now
+no creed accepted as embodying the common sense of all Europe, as the
+Catholic creed was accepted as embodying it in mediaeval times. There is
+no culture broadly superior to all others, as the Mediterranean culture
+was superior to that of the barbarians in Roman times. If Europe were
+united in modern times, it would probably be by the victory of one of
+its types over others, possibly over all the others. And when America
+was united finally in the nineteenth century, it <i>was</i> by the victory of
+one of its types over others. It is not yet certain that this victory
+was a good thing. It is not yet certain that the world will be better
+for the triumph<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> of the North over the Southern traditions of America.
+It may yet turn out to be as unfortunate as a triumph of the North
+Germans over the Southern traditions of Germany and of Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The men who will not face this fact are men whose minds are not free.
+They are more crushed by Progress than any pietists by Providence. They
+are not allowed to question that whatever has recently happened was all
+for the best. Now Progress is Providence without God. That is, it is a
+theory that everything has always perpetually gone right by accident. It
+is a sort of atheistic optimism, based on an everlasting coincidence far
+more miraculous than a miracle. If there be no purpose, or if the
+purpose permits of human free will, then in either case it is almost
+insanely unlikely that there should be in history a period of steady and
+uninterrupted progress; or in other words a period in which poor
+bewildered humanity moves amid a chaos of complications, without making
+a single mistake. What has to be hammered into the heads of most normal
+newspaper-readers to-day is that Man has made a great many mistakes.
+Modern Man has made a great many mistakes. Indeed, in the case of that
+progressive and pioneering character, one is sometimes tempted to say
+that he has made nothing but mistakes. Calvinism was a mistake, and
+Capitalism was a mistake, and Teutonism and the flattery of the Northern
+tribes were mistakes. In the French the persecution of Catholicism by
+the politicians was a mistake, as they found out in the Great War; when
+the memory gave Irish or Italian Catholics an excuse for hanging back.
+In England the loss of agriculture and therefore of food-supply in war,
+and the power<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> to stand a siege, was a mistake. And in America the
+introduction of the negroes was a mistake; but it may yet be found that
+the sacrifice of the Southern white man to them was even more of a
+mistake.</p>
+
+<p>The reason of this doubt is in one word. We have not yet seen the end of
+the whole industrial experiment; and there are already signs of it
+coming to a bad end. It may end in Bolshevism. It is more likely to end
+in the Servile State. Indeed, the two things are not so different as
+some suppose, and they grow less different every day. The Bolshevists
+have already called in Capitalists to help them to crush the free
+peasants. The Capitalists are quite likely to call in Labour Leaders to
+whitewash their compromise as social reform or even Socialism. The
+cosmopolitan Jews who are the Communists in the East will not find it so
+very hard to make a bargain with the cosmopolitan Jews who are
+Capitalists in the West. The Western Jews would be willing to admit a
+nominal Socialism. The Eastern Jews have already admitted that their
+Socialism is nominal. It was the Bolshevist leader himself who said,
+'Russia is again a Capitalist country.' But whoever makes the bargain,
+and whatever is its precise character, the substance of it will be
+servile. It will be servile in the only rational and reliable sense;
+that is, an arrangement by which a mass of men are ensured shelter and
+livelihood, in return for being subjected to a law which obliges them to
+continue to labour. Of course it will not be called the Servile State;
+it is very probable that it will be called the Socialist State. But
+nobody seems to realise how very near all the industrial countries are
+to it. At any moment it may appear in the simple form of compulsory
+arbitration;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> for compulsory arbitration dealing with private employers
+is by definition slavery. When workmen receive unemployment pay, and at
+the same time arouse more and more irritation by going on strike, it may
+seem very natural to give them the unemployment pay for good and forbid
+them the strike for good; and the combination of those two things is by
+definition slavery. And Trotsky can beat any Trust magnate as a
+strike-breaker; for he does not even pretend that his compulsory labour
+is a free bargain. If Trotsky and the Trust magnate come to a working
+compromise, that compromise will be a Servile State. But it will also be
+the supreme and by far the most constructive and conclusive result of
+the industrial movement in history; of the power of machinery or money;
+of the huge populations of the modern cities; of scientific inventions
+and resources; of all the things before which the agricultural society
+of the Southern Confederacy went down. But even those who cannot see
+that commercialism may end in the triumph of slavery can see that the
+Northern victory has to a great extent ended in the triumph of
+commercialism. And the point at the moment is that this did definitely
+mean, even at the time, the triumph of one American type over another
+American type; just as much as any European war might mean the triumph
+of one European type over another. A victory of England over France
+would be a victory of merchants over peasants; and the victory of
+Northerners over Southerners was a victory of merchants over squires. So
+that that very unity, which Mr. Wells contrasts so favourably with war,
+was not only itself due to a war, but to a war which had one of the most
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>questionable and even perilous of the results of war. That result was a
+change in the balance of power, the predominance of a particular
+partner, the exaltation of a particular example, the eclipse of
+excellent traditions when the defeated lost their international
+influence. In short, it made exactly the same sort of difference of
+which we speak when we say that 1870 was a disaster to Europe, or that
+it was necessary to fight Prussia lest she should Prussianise the whole
+world. America would have been very different if the leadership had
+remained with Virginia. The world would have been very different if
+America had been very different. It is quite reasonable to rejoice that
+the issue went as it did; indeed, as I have explained elsewhere, for
+other reasons I do on the whole rejoice in it. But it is certainly not
+self-evident that it is a matter for rejoicing. One type of American
+state conquered and subjugated another type of American state; and the
+virtues and value of the latter were very largely lost to the world. So
+if Mr. Wells insists on the parallel of a United States of Europe, he
+must accept the parallel of a Civil War of Europe. He must suppose that
+the peasant countries crush the industrial countries or vice versa; and
+that one or other of them becomes the European tradition to the neglect
+of the other. The situation which seems to satisfy him so completely in
+America is, after all, the situation which would result in Europe if the
+Germanic Empires, let us say, had entirely arrested the special
+development of the Slavs; or if the influence of France had really
+broken off short under a blow from Britain. The Old South had qualities
+of humane civilisation which have not sufficiently survived; or at any
+rate have not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>sufficiently spread. It is true that the decline of the
+agricultural South has been considerably balanced by the growth of the
+agricultural West. It is true, as I have occasion to emphasise in
+another place, that the West does give the New America something that is
+nearly a normal peasantry, as a pendant to the industrial towns. But
+this is not an answer; it is rather an augmentation of the argument. In
+so far as America is saved it is saved by being patchy; and would be
+ruined if the Western patch had the same fate as the Southern patch.
+When all is said, therefore, the advantages of American unification are
+not so certain that we can apply them to a world unification. The doubt
+could be expressed in a great many ways and by a great many examples.
+For that matter, it is already being felt that the supremacy of the
+Middle West in politics is inflicting upon other localities exactly the
+sort of local injustice that turns provinces into nations struggling to
+be free. It has already inflicted what amounts to religious persecution,
+or the imposition of an alien morality, on the wine-growing civilisation
+of California. In a word, the American system is a good one as
+governments go; but it is too large, and the world will not be improved
+by making it larger. And for this reason alone I should reject this
+second method of uniting England and America; which is not only
+Americanising England, but Americanising everything else.</p>
+
+<p>But the essential reason is that a type of culture came out on top in
+America and England in the nineteenth century, which cannot and would
+not be tolerated on top of the world. To unite all the systems at the
+top, without improving and simplifying their social organisation below,
+would be to tie<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> all the tops of the trees together where they rise
+above a dense and poisonous jungle, and make the jungle darker than
+before. To create such a cosmopolitan political platform would be to
+build a roof above our own heads to shut out the sunlight, on which only
+usurers and conspirators clad in gold could walk about in the sun. This
+is no moment when industrial intellectualism can inflict such an
+artificial oppression upon the world. Industrialism itself is coming to
+see dark days, and its future is very doubtful. It is split from end to
+end with strikes and struggles for economic life, in which the poor not
+only plead that they are starving, but even the rich can only plead that
+they are bankrupt. The peasantries are growing not only more prosperous
+but more politically effective; the Russian moujik has held up the
+Bolshevist Government of Moscow and Petersburg; a huge concession has
+been made by England to Ireland; the League of Nations has decided for
+Poland against Prussia. It is not certain that industrialism will not
+wither even in its own field; it is certain that its intellectual ideas
+will not be allowed to cover every field; and this sort of cosmopolitan
+culture is one of its ideas. Industrialism itself may perish; or on the
+other hand industrialism itself may survive, by some searching and
+scientific reform that will really guarantee economic security to all.
+It may really purge itself of the accidental maladies of anarchy and
+famine; and continue as a machine, but at least as a comparatively clean
+and humanely shielded machine; at any rate no longer as a man-eating
+machine. Capitalism may clear itself of its worst corruptions by such
+reform as is open to it; by creating humane and healthy conditions<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> for
+labour, and setting the labouring classes to work under a lucid and
+recognised law. It may make Pittsburg one vast model factory for all who
+will model themselves upon factories; and may give to all men and women
+in its employment a clear social status in which they can be contented
+and secure. And on the day when that social security is established for
+the masses, when industrial capitalism has achieved this larger and more
+logical organisation and found peace at last, a strange and shadowy and
+ironic triumph, like an abstract apology, will surely hover over all
+those graves in the Wilderness where lay the bones of so many gallant
+gentlemen; men who had also from their youth known and upheld such a
+social stratification, who had the courage to call a spade a spade and a
+slave a slave.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="A_New_Martin_Chuzzlewit" id="A_New_Martin_Chuzzlewit"></a><i>A New Martin Chuzzlewit</i></h2>
+
+<p>The aim of this book, if it has one, is to suggest this thesis; that the
+very worst way of helping Anglo-American friendship is to be an
+Anglo-American. There is only one thing lower, of course, which is being
+an Anglo-Saxon. It is lower, because at least Englishmen do exist and
+Americans do exist; and it may be possible, though repulsive, to imagine
+an American and an Englishman in some way blended together. But if
+Angles and Saxons ever did exist, they are all fortunately dead now; and
+the wildest imagination cannot form the weakest idea of what sort of
+monster would be made by mixing one with the other. But my thesis is
+that the whole hope, and the only hope, lies not in mixing two things
+together, but rather in cutting them very sharply asunder. That is the
+only way in which two things can succeed sufficiently in getting outside
+each other to appreciate and admire each other. So long as they are
+different and yet supposed to be the same, there can be nothing but a
+divided mind and a staggering balance. It may be that in the first
+twilight of time man and woman walked about as one quadruped. But if
+they did, I am sure it was a quadruped that reared and bucked and kicked
+up its heels. Then the flaming sword of some angel divided them, and
+they fell in love with each other.</p>
+
+<p>Should the reader require an example a little more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> within historical
+range, or a little more subject to critical tests, than the above
+prehistoric anecdote (which I need not say was revealed to me in a
+vision) it would be easy enough to supply them both in a hypothetical
+and a historical form. It is obvious enough in a general way that if we
+begin to subject diverse countries to an identical test, there will not
+only be rivalry, but what is far more deadly and disastrous,
+superiority. If we institute a competition between Holland and
+Switzerland as to the relative grace and agility of their mountain
+guides, it will be clear that the decision is disproportionately easy;
+it will also be clear that certain facts about the configuration of
+Holland have escaped our international eye. If we establish a comparison
+between them in skill and industry in the art of building dykes against
+the sea, it will be equally clear that the injustice falls the other
+way; it will also be clear that the situation of Switzerland on the map
+has received insufficient study. In both cases there will not only be
+rivalry but very unbalanced and unjust rivalry; in both cases,
+therefore, there will not only be enmity but very bitter or insolent
+enmity. But so long as the two are sharply divided there can be no
+enmity because there can be no rivalry. Nobody can argue about whether
+the Swiss climb mountains better than the Dutch build dykes; just as
+nobody can argue about whether a triangle is more triangular than a
+circle is round.</p>
+
+<p>This fancy example is alphabetically and indeed artificially simple;
+but, having used it for convenience, I could easily give similar
+examples not of fancy but of fact. I had occasion recently to attend the
+Christmas festivity of a club in London for the exiles of one of the
+Scandinavian nations. When I entered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> the room the first thing that
+struck my eye, and greatly raised my spirits, was that the room was
+dotted with the colours of peasant costumes and the specimens of peasant
+craftsmanship. There were, of course, other costumes and other crafts in
+evidence; there were men dressed like myself (only better) in the garb
+of the modern middle classes; there was furniture like the furniture of
+any other room in London. Now, according to the ideal formula of the
+ordinary internationalist, these things that we had in common ought to
+have moved me to a sense of the kinship of all civilisation. I ought to
+have felt that as the Scandinavian gentleman wore a collar and tie, and
+I also wore a collar and tie, we were brothers and nothing could come
+between us. I ought to have felt that we were standing for the same
+principles of truth because we were wearing the same pair of trousers;
+or rather, to speak with more precision, similar pairs of trousers.
+Anyhow, the pair of trousers, that cloven pennon, ought to have floated
+in fancy over my head as the banner of Europe or the League of Nations.
+I am constrained to confess that no such rush of emotions overcame me;
+and the topic of trousers did not float across my mind at all. So far as
+those things were concerned, I might have remained in a mood of mortal
+enmity, and cheerfully shot or stabbed the best dressed gentleman in the
+room. Precisely what did warm my heart with an abrupt affection for that
+northern nation was the very thing that is utterly and indeed lamentably
+lacking in my own nation. It was something corresponding to the one
+great gap in English history, corresponding to the one great blot on
+English civilisation. It was the spiritual presence of a peasantry,
+dressed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>according to its own dignity, and expressing itself by its own
+creations.</p>
+
+<p>The sketch of America left by Charles Dickens is generally regarded as
+something which is either to be used as a taunt or covered with an
+apology. Doubtless it was unduly critical, even of the America of that
+day; yet curiously enough it may well be the text for a true
+reconciliation at the present day. It is true that in this, as in other
+things, the Dickensian exaggeration is itself exaggerated. It is also
+true that, while it is over-emphasised, it is not allowed for. Dickens
+tended too much to describe the United States as a vast lunatic asylum;
+but partly because he had a natural inspiration and imagination suited
+to the description of lunatic asylums. As it was his finest poetic fancy
+that created a lunatic over the garden wall, so it was his fancy that
+created a lunatic over the western sea. To read some of the complaints,
+one would fancy that Dickens had deliberately invented a low and
+farcical America to be a contrast to his high and exalted England. It is
+suggested that he showed America as full of rowdy bullies like Hannibal
+Chollop, or ridiculous wind-bags like Elijah Pogram, while England was
+full of refined and sincere spirits like Jonas Chuzzlewit, Chevy Slime,
+Montague Tigg, and Mr. Pecksniff. If <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i> makes America a
+lunatic asylum, what in the world does it make England? We can only say
+a criminal lunatic asylum. The truth is, of course, that Dickens so
+described them because he had a genius for that sort of description; for
+the making of almost maniacal grotesques of the same type as Quilp or
+Fagin. He made these Americans absurd because he was an artist in
+absurdity; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> no artist can help finding hints everywhere for his own
+peculiar art. In a word, he created a laughable Pogram for the same
+reason that he created a laughable Pecksniff; and that was only because
+no other creature could have created them.</p>
+
+<p>It is often said that we learn to love the characters in romances as if
+they were characters in real life. I wish we could sometimes love the
+characters in real life as we love the characters in romances. There are
+a great many human souls whom we should accept more kindly, and even
+appreciate more clearly, if we simply thought of them as people in a
+story. <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i> is itself indeed an unsatisfactory and even
+unfortunate example; for it is, among its author's other works, a rather
+unusually harsh and hostile story. I do not suggest that we should feel
+towards an American friend that exact shade or tint of tenderness that
+we feel towards Mr. Hannibal Chollop. Our enjoyment of the foreigner
+should rather resemble our enjoyment of Pickwick than our enjoyment of
+Pecksniff. But there is this amount of appropriateness even in the
+particular example; that Dickens did show in both countries how men can
+be made amusing to each other. So far the point is not that he made fun
+of America, but that he got fun out of America. And, as I have already
+pointed out, he applied exactly the same method of selection and
+exaggeration to England. In the other English stories, written in a more
+amiable mood, he applied it in a more amiable manner; but he could apply
+it to an American too, when he was writing in that mood and manner. We
+can see it in the witty and withering criticism delivered by the Yankee
+traveller in the musty refreshment room of Mugby Junction;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> a genuine
+example of a genuinely American fun and freedom satirising a genuinely
+British stuffiness and snobbery. Nobody expects the American traveller
+to admire the refreshments at Mugby Junction; but he might admire the
+refreshment at one of the Pickwickian inns, especially if it contained
+Pickwick. Nobody expects Pickwick to like Pogram; but he might like the
+American who made fun of Mugby Junction. But the point is that, while he
+supported him in making fun, he would also think him funny. The two
+comic characters could admire each other, but they would also be amused
+at each other. And the American would think the Englishman funny because
+he was English; and a very good reason too. The Englishman would think
+the American amusing because he was American; nor can I imagine a better
+ground for his amusement.</p>
+
+<p>Now many will debate on the psychological possibility of such a
+friendship founded on reciprocal ridicule, or rather on a comedy of
+comparisons. But I will say of this harmony of humours what Mr. H. G.
+Wells says of his harmony of states in the unity of his World State. If
+it be truly impossible to have such a peace, then there is nothing
+possible except war. If we cannot have friends in this fashion, then we
+shall sooner or later have enemies in some other fashion. There is no
+hope in the pompous impersonalities of internationalism.</p>
+
+<p>And this brings us to the real and relevant mistake of Dickens. It was
+not in thinking his Americans funny, but in thinking them foolish
+because they were funny. In this sense it will be noticed that Dickens's
+American sketches are almost avowedly superficial; they are descriptions
+of public life and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> not private life. Mr. Jefferson Brick had no private
+life. But Mr. Jonas Chuzzlewit undoubtedly had a private life; and even
+kept some parts of it exceeding private. Mr. Pecksniff was also a
+domestic character; so was Mr. Quilp. Mr. Pecksniff and Mr. Quilp had
+slightly different ways of surprising their families; Mr. Pecksniff by
+playfully observing 'Boh!' when he came home; Mr. Quilp by coming home
+at all. But we can form no picture of how Mr. Hannibal Chollop playfully
+surprised his family; possibly by shooting at them; possibly by not
+shooting at them. We can only say that he would rather surprise us by
+having a family at all. We do not know how the Mother of the Modern
+Gracchi managed the Modern Gracchi; for her maternity was rather a
+public than a private office. We have no romantic moonlit scenes of the
+love-making of Elijah Pogram, to balance against the love story of Seth
+Pecksniff. These figures are all in a special sense theatrical; all
+facing one way and lit up by a public limelight. Their ridiculous
+characters are detachable from their real characters, if they have any
+real characters. And the author might perfectly well be right about what
+is ridiculous, and wrong about what is real. He might be as right in
+smiling at the Pograms and the Bricks as in smiling at the Pickwicks and
+the Boffins. And he might still be as wrong in seeing Mr. Pogram as a
+hypocrite as the great Buzfuz was wrong in seeing Mr. Pickwick as a
+monster of revolting heartlessness and systematic villainy. He might
+still be as wrong in thinking Jefferson Brick a charlatan and a cheat as
+was that great disciple of Lavater, Mrs. Wilfer, in tracing every
+wrinkle of evil cunning in the face of Mrs. Boffin. For Mr. Pickwick's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>
+spectacles and gaiters and Mrs. Boffin's bonnets and boudoir are after
+all superficial jokes; and might be equally well seen whatever we saw
+beneath them. A man may smile and smile and be a villain; but a man may
+also make us smile and not be a villain. He may make us smile and not
+even be a fool. He may make us roar with laughter and be an exceedingly
+wise man.</p>
+
+<p>Now that is the paradox of America which Dickens never discovered.
+Elijah Pogram was far more fantastic than his satirist thought; and the
+most grotesque feature of Brick and Chollop was hidden from him. The
+really strange thing was that Pogram probably did say, 'Rough he may be.
+So air our bars. Wild he may be. So air our buffalers,' and yet was a
+perfectly intelligent and public-spirited citizen while he said it. The
+extraordinary thing is that Jefferson Brick may really have said, 'The
+libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood,' and yet
+Jefferson Brick may have served freedom, resisting unto blood. There
+really has been a florid school of rhetoric in the United States which
+has made it quite possible for serious and sensible men to say such
+things. It is amusing simply as a difference of idiom or costume is
+always amusing; just as English idiom and English costume are amusing to
+Americans. But about this kind of difference there can be no kind of
+doubt. So sturdy not to say stuffy a materialist as Ingersoll could say
+of so shoddy not to say shady a financial politician as Blaine, 'Like an
+arm&eacute;d warrior, like a plum&eacute;d knight, James G. Blaine strode down the
+hall of Congress, and flung his spear full and true at the shield of
+every enemy of his country and every traducer of his fair name.'
+Compared with that, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> passage about bears and buffaloes, which Mr.
+Pogram delivered in defence of the defaulting post-master, is really a
+very reasonable and appropriate statement. For bears and buffaloes are
+wild and rough and in that sense free; while plum&eacute;d knights do not throw
+their lances about like the assegais of Zulus. And the defaulting
+post-master was at least as good a person to praise in such a fashion as
+James G. Blaine of the Little Rock Railway. But anybody who had treated
+Ingersoll or Blaine merely as a fool and a figure of fun would have very
+rapidly found out his mistake. But Dickens did not know Brick or Chollop
+long enough to find out his mistake. It need not be denied that, even
+after a full understanding, he might still have found things to smile at
+or to criticise. I do not insist on his admitting that Hannibal Chollop
+was as great a hero as Hannibal, or that Elijah Pogram was as true a
+prophet as Elijah. But I do say very seriously that they had something
+about their atmosphere and situation that made possible a sort of
+heroism and even a sort of prophecy that were really less natural at
+that period in that Merry England whose comedy and common sense we sum
+up under the name of Dickens. When we joke about the name of Hannibal
+Chollop, we might remember of what nation was the general who dismissed
+his defeated soldiers at Appomatox with words which the historian has
+justly declared to be worthy of Hannibal: 'We have fought through this
+war together. I have done my best for you.' It is not fair to forget
+Jefferson, or even Jefferson Davis, entirely in favour of Jefferson
+Brick.</p>
+
+<p>For all these three things, good, bad, and indifferent, go together to
+form something that Dickens<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> missed, merely because the England of his
+time most disastrously missed it. In this case, as in every case, the
+only way to measure justly the excess of a foreign country is to measure
+the defect of our own country. For in this matter the human mind is the
+victim of a curious little unconscious trick, the cause of nearly all
+international dislikes. A man treats his own faults as original sin and
+supposes them scattered everywhere with the seed of Adam. He supposes
+that men have then added their own foreign vices to the solid and simple
+foundation of his own private vices. It would astound him to realise
+that they have actually, by their strange erratic path, avoided his
+vices as well as his virtues. His own faults are things with which he is
+so much at home that he at once forgets and assumes them abroad. He is
+so faintly conscious of them in himself that he is not even conscious of
+the absence of them in other people. He assumes that they are there so
+that he does not see that they are not there. The Englishman takes it
+for granted that a Frenchman will have all the English faults. Then he
+goes on to be seriously angry with the Frenchman for having dared to
+complicate them by the French faults. The notion that the Frenchman has
+the French faults and <i>not</i> the English faults is a paradox too wild to
+cross his mind.</p>
+
+<p>He is like an old Chinaman who should laugh at Europeans for wearing
+ludicrous top-hats and curling up their pig-tails inside them; because
+obviously all men have pig-tails, as all monkeys have tails. Or he is
+like an old Chinese lady who should justly deride the high-heeled shoes
+of the West, considering them a needless addition to the sufficiently
+tight and secure<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> bandaging of the foot; for, of course, all women bind
+up their feet, as all women bind up their hair. What these Celestial
+thinkers would not think of, or allow for, is the wild possibility that
+we do not have pig-tails although we do have top-hats, or that our
+ladies are not silly enough to have Chinese feet, though they are silly
+enough to have high-heeled shoes. Nor should we necessarily have come an
+inch nearer to the Chinese extravagances even if the chimney-pot hat
+rose higher than a factory chimney or the high heels had evolved into a
+sort of stilts. By the same fallacy the Englishman will not only curse
+the French peasant as a miser, but will also try to tip him as a beggar.
+That is, he will first complain of the man having the surliness of an
+independent man, and then accuse him of having the servility of a
+dependent one. Just as the hypothetical Chinaman cannot believe that we
+have top-hats but not pig-tails, so the Englishman cannot believe that
+peasants are not snobs even when they are savages. Or he sees that a
+Paris paper is violent and sensational; and then supposes that some
+millionaire owns twenty such papers and runs them as a newspaper trust.
+Surely the Yellow Press is present everywhere to paint the map yellow,
+as the British Empire to paint it red. It never occurs to such a critic
+that the French paper is violent because it is personal, and personal
+because it belongs to a real and responsible person, and not to a ring
+of nameless millionaires. It is a pamphlet, and not an anonymous
+pamphlet. In a hundred other cases the same truth could be illustrated;
+the situation in which the black man first assumes that all mankind is
+black, and then accuses the rest of the artificial vice of painting
+their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> faces red and yellow, or the hypocrisy of white-washing
+themselves after the fashion of whited sepulchres. The particular case
+of it now before us is that of the English misunderstanding of America;
+and it is based, as in all these cases, on the English misunderstanding
+of England.</p>
+
+<p>For the truth is that England has suffered of late from not having
+enough of the free shooting of Hannibal Chollop; from not understanding
+enough that the libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood.
+The prosperous Englishman will not admit this; but then the prosperous
+Englishman will not admit that he has suffered from anything. That is
+what he is suffering from. Until lately at least he refused to realise
+that many of his modern habits had been bad habits, the worst of them
+being contentment. For all the real virtue in contentment evaporates,
+when the contentment is only satisfaction and the satisfaction is only
+self-satisfaction. Now it is perfectly true that America and not England
+has seen the most obvious and outrageous official denials of liberty.
+But it is equally true that it has seen the most obvious flouting of
+such official nonsense, far more obvious than any similar evasions in
+England. And nobody who knows the subconscious violence of the American
+character would ever be surprised if the weapons of Chollop began to be
+used in that most lawful lawlessness. It is perfectly true that the
+libation of freedom must sometimes be drunk in blood, and never more
+(one would think) than when mad millionaires forbid it to be drunk in
+beer. But America, as compared with England, is the country where one
+can still fancy men obtaining the libation of beer by the libation of
+blood. Vulgar plutocracy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span> is almost omnipotent in both countries; but I
+think there is now more kick of reaction against it in America than in
+England. The Americans may go mad when they make laws; but they recover
+their reason when they disobey them. I wish I could believe that there
+was as much of that destructive repentance in England; as indeed there
+certainly was when Cobbett wrote. It faded gradually like a dying fire
+through the Victorian era; and it was one of the very few realities that
+Dickens did not understand. But any one who does understand it will know
+that the days of Cobbett saw the last lost fight for English democracy;
+and that if he had stood at that turning of the historic road, he would
+have wished a better fate to the frame-breakers and the fury against the
+first machinery, and luck to the Luddite fires.</p>
+
+<p>Anyhow, what is wanted is a new Martin Chuzzlewit, told by a wiser Mark
+Tapley. It is typical of something sombre and occasionally stale in the
+mood of Dickens when he wrote that book, that the comic servant is not
+really very comic. Mark Tapley is a very thin shadow of Sam Weller. But
+if Dickens had written it in a happier mood, there might have been a
+truer meaning in Mark Tapley's happiness. For it is true that this
+illogical good humour amid unreason and disorder is one of the real
+virtues of the English people. It is the real advantage they have in
+that adventure all over the world, which they were recently and
+reluctantly induced to call an Empire. That receptive ridicule remains
+with them as a secret pleasure when they are colonists&mdash;or convicts.
+Dickens might have written another version of the great romance, and one
+in which America was really seen gaily by Mark instead of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> gloomily by
+Martin. Mark Tapley might really have made the best of America. Then
+America would have lived and danced before us like Pickwick's England, a
+fairyland of happy lunatics and lovable monsters, and we might still
+have sympathised as much with the rhetoric of Lafayette Kettle as with
+the rhetoric of Wilkins Micawber, or with the violence of Chollop as
+with the violence of Boythorn. That new Martin Chuzzlewit will never be
+written; and the loss of it is more tragic than the loss of <i>Edwin
+Drood</i>. But every man who has travelled in America has seen glimpses and
+episodes in that untold tale; and far away on the Red-Indian frontiers
+or in the hamlets in the hills of Pennsylvania, there are people whom I
+met for a few hours or for a few moments, whom I none the less sincerely
+like and respect because I cannot but smile as I think of them. But the
+converse is also true; they have probably forgotten me; but if they
+remember they laugh.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_Spirit_of_America" id="The_Spirit_of_America"></a><i>The Spirit of America</i></h2>
+
+<p>I suggest that diplomatists of the internationalist school should spend
+some of their money on staging farces and comedies of cross-purposes,
+founded on the curious and prevalent idea that England and America have
+the same language. I know, of course, that we both inherit the glorious
+tongue of Shakespeare, not to mention the tune of the musical glasses;
+but there have been moments when I thought that if we spoke Greek and
+they spoke Latin we might understand each other better. For Greek and
+Latin are at least fixed, while American at least is still very fluid. I
+do not know the American language, and therefore I do not claim to
+distinguish between the American language and the American slang. But I
+know that highly theatrical developments might follow on taking the
+words as part of the English slang or the English language. I have
+already given the example of calling a person 'a regular guy,' which in
+the States is a graceful expression of respect and esteem, but which on
+the stage, properly handled, might surely lead the way towards a divorce
+or duel or something lively. Sometimes coincidence merely clinches a
+mistake, as it so often clinches a misprint. Every proof-reader knows
+that the worst misprint is not that which makes nonsense but that which
+makes sense; not that which is obviously wrong but that which is
+hideously right. He who has essayed to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> write 'he got the book,' and has
+found it rendered mysteriously as 'he got the boob' is pensively
+resigned. It is when it is rendered quite lucidly as 'he got the boot'
+that he is moved to a more passionate mood of regret. I have had
+conversations in which this sort of accident would have wholly misled
+me, if another accident had not come to the rescue. An American friend
+of mine was telling me of his adventures as a cinema-producer down in
+the south-west where real Red Indians were procurable. He said that
+certain Indians were 'very bad actors.' It passed for me as a very
+ordinary remark on a very ordinary or natural deficiency. It would
+hardly seem a crushing criticism to say that some wild Arab chieftain
+was not very good at imitating a farmyard; or that the Grand Llama of
+Thibet was rather clumsy at making paper boats. But the remark might be
+natural in a man travelling in paper boats, or touring with an invisible
+farmyard for his menagerie. As my friend was a cinema-producer, I
+supposed he meant that the Indians were bad cinema actors. But the
+phrase has really a high and austere moral meaning, which my levity had
+wholly missed. A bad actor means a man whose actions are bad or morally
+reprehensible. So that I might have embraced a Red Indian who was
+dripping with gore, or covered with atrocious crimes, imagining there
+was nothing the matter with him beyond a mistaken choice of the
+theatrical profession. Surely there are here the elements of a play, not
+to mention a cinema play. Surely a New England village maiden might find
+herself among the wigwams in the power of the formidable and fiendish
+'Little Blue Bison,' merely through her mistaken sympathy with his
+financial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> failure as a Film Star. The notion gives me glimpses of all
+sorts of dissolving views of primeval forests and flamboyant theatres;
+but this impulse of irrelevant theatrical production must be curbed.
+There is one example, however, of this complication of language actually
+used in contrary senses, about which the same figure can be used to
+illustrate a more serious fact.</p>
+
+<p>Suppose that, in such an international interlude, an English girl and an
+American girl are talking about the fianc&eacute; of the former, who is coming
+to call. The English girl will be haughty and aristocratic (on the
+stage), the American girl will of course have short hair and skirts and
+will be cynical; Americans being more completely free from cynicism than
+any people in the world. It is the great glory of Americans that they
+are not cynical; for that matter, English aristocrats are hardly ever
+haughty; they understand the game much better than that. But on the
+stage, anyhow, the American girl may say, referring to her friend's
+fianc&eacute;, with a cynical wave of the cigarette, 'I suppose he's bound to
+come and see you.' And at this the blue blood of the Vere de Veres will
+boil over; the English lady will be deeply wounded and insulted at the
+suggestion that her lover only comes to see her because he is forced to
+do so. A staggering stage quarrel will then ensue, and things will go
+from bad to worse; until the arrival of an Interpreter who can talk both
+English and American. He stands between the two ladies waving two pocket
+dictionaries, and explains the error on which the quarrel turns. It is
+very simple; like the seed of all tragedies. In English 'he is bound to
+come and see you' means that he is obliged or constrained to come and
+see you. In American it does not. In American it means that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> he is bent
+on coming to see you, that he is irrevocably resolved to do so, and will
+surmount any obstacle to do it. The two young ladies will then embrace
+as the curtain falls.</p>
+
+<p>Now when I was lecturing in America I was often told, in a radiant and
+congratulatory manner, that such and such a person was bound to come and
+hear me lecture. It seemed a very cruel form of conscription, and I
+could not understand what authority could have made it compulsory. In
+the course of discovering my error, however, I thought I began to
+understand certain American ideas and instincts that lie behind this
+American idiom. For as I have urged before, and shall often urge again,
+the road to international friendship is through really understanding
+jokes. It is in a sense through taking jokes seriously. It is quite
+legitimate to laugh at a man who walks down the street in three white
+hats and a green dressing gown, because it is unfamiliar; but after all
+the man has <i>some</i> reason for what he does; and until we know the reason
+we do not understand the story, or even understand the joke. So the
+outlander will always seem outlandish in custom or costume; but serious
+relations depend on our getting beyond the fact of difference to the
+things wherein it differs. A good symbolical figure for all this may be
+found among the people who say, perhaps with a self-revealing
+simplicity, that they are bound to go to a lecture.</p>
+
+<p>If I were asked for a single symbolic figure summing up the whole of
+what seems eccentric and interesting about America to an Englishman, I
+should be satisfied to select that one lady who complained of Mrs.
+Asquith's lecture and wanted her money back.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> I do not mean that she was
+typically American in complaining; far from it. I, for one, have a great
+and guilty knowledge of all that amiable American audiences will endure
+without complaint. I do not mean that she was typically American in
+wanting her money; quite the contrary. That sort of American spends
+money rather than hoards it; and when we convict them of vulgarity we
+acquit them of avarice. Where she was typically American, summing up a
+truth individual and indescribable in any other way, is that she used
+these words: 'I've risen from a sick-bed to come and hear her, and I
+want my money back.'</p>
+
+<p>The element in that which really amuses an Englishman is precisely the
+element which, properly analysed, ought to make him admire an American.
+But my point is that only by going through the amusement can he reach
+the admiration. The amusement is in the vision of a tragic sacrifice for
+what is avowedly a rather trivial object. Mrs. Asquith is a candid lady
+of considerable humour; and I feel sure she does not regard the
+experience of hearing her read her diary as an ecstasy for which the
+sick should thus suffer martyrdom. She also is English; and had no other
+claim but to amuse Americans and possibly to be amused by them. This
+being so, it is rather as if somebody said, 'I have risked my life in
+fire and pestilence to find my way to the music hall,' or, 'I have
+fasted forty days in the wilderness sustained by the hope of seeing
+Totty Toddles do her new dance.' And there is something rather more
+subtle involved here. There is something in an Englishman which would
+make him feel faintly ashamed of saying that he had fasted to hear
+Totty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> Toddles, or risen from a sick-bed to hear Mrs. Asquith. He would
+feel that it was undignified to confess that he had wanted mere
+amusement so much; and perhaps that he had wanted anything so much. He
+would not like, so to speak, to be seen rushing down the street after
+Totty Toddles, or after Mrs. Asquith, or perhaps after anybody. But
+there is something in it distinct from a mere embarrassment at admitting
+enthusiasm. He might admit the enthusiasm if the object seemed to
+justify it; he might perfectly well be serious about a serious thing.
+But he cannot understand a person being proud of serious sacrifices for
+what is not a serious thing. He does not like to admit that a little
+thing can excite him; that he can lose his breath in running, or lose
+his balance in reaching, after something that might be called silly.</p>
+
+<p>Now that is where the American is fundamentally different. To him the
+enthusiasm itself is meritorious. To him the excitement itself is
+dignified. He counts it a part of his manhood to fast or fight or rise
+from a bed of sickness for something, or possibly for anything. His
+ideal is not to be a lock that only a worthy key can open, but a 'live
+wire' that anything can touch or anybody can use. In a word, there is a
+difference in the very definition of virility and therefore of virtue. A
+live wire is not only active, it is also sensitive. Thus sensibility
+becomes actually a part of virility. Something more is involved than the
+vulgar simplification of the American as the irresistible force and the
+Englishman as the immovable post. As a fact, those who speak of such
+things nowadays generally mean by something irresistible something
+simply immovable, or at least<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> something unalterable, motionless even in
+motion, like a cannon ball; for a cannon ball is as dead as a cannon.
+Prussian militarism was praised in that way&mdash;until it met a French force
+of about half its size on the banks of the Marne. But that is not what
+an American means by energy; that sort of Prussian energy is only
+monotony without repose. American energy is not a soulless machine; for
+it is the whole point that he puts his soul into it. It is a very small
+box for so big a thing; but it is not an empty box. But the point is
+that he is not only proud of his energy, he is proud of his excitement.
+He is not ashamed of his emotion, of the fire or even the tear in his
+manly eye, when he tells you that the great wheel of his machine breaks
+four billion butterflies an hour.</p>
+
+<p>That is the point about American sport; that it is not in the least
+sportive. It is because it is not very sportive that we sometimes say it
+is not very sporting. It has the vices of a religion. It has all the
+paradox of original sin in the service of aboriginal faith. It is
+sometimes untruthful because it is sincere. It is sometimes treacherous
+because it is loyal. Men lie and cheat for it as they lied for their
+lords in a feudal conspiracy, or cheated for their chieftains in a
+Highland feud. We may say that the vassal readily committed treason; but
+it is equally true that he readily endured torture. So does the American
+athlete endure torture. Not only the self-sacrifice but the solemnity of
+the American athlete is like that of the American Indian. The athletes
+in the States have the attitude of the athletes among the Spartans, the
+great historical nation without a sense of humour. They suffer an
+ascetic r&eacute;gime not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> to be matched in any monasticism and hardly in any
+militarism. If any tradition of these things remains in a saner age,
+they will probably be remembered as a mysterious religious order of
+fakirs or dancing dervishes, who shaved their heads and fasted in honour
+of Hercules or Castor and Pollux. And that is really the spiritual
+atmosphere though the gods have vanished; and the religion is
+subconscious and therefore irrational. For the problem of the modern
+world is that it has continued to be religious when it has ceased to be
+rational. Americans really would starve to win a cocoa-nut shy. They
+would fast or bleed to win a race of paper boats on a pond. They would
+rise from a sick-bed to listen to Mrs. Asquith.</p>
+
+<p>But it is the real reason that interests me here. It is certainly not
+that Americans are so stupid as not to know that cocoa-nuts are only
+cocoa-nuts and paper boats only made of paper. Americans are, on an
+average, rather more intelligent than Englishmen; and they are well
+aware that Hercules is a myth and that Mrs. Asquith is something of a
+mythologist. It is not that they do not know that the object is small in
+itself; it is that they do really believe that the enthusiasm is great
+in itself. They admire people for being impressionable. They admire
+people for being excited. An American so struggling for some
+disproportionate trifle (like one of my lectures) really feels in a
+mystical way that he is right, because it is his whole morality to be
+keen. So long as he wants something very much, whatever it is, he feels
+he has his conscience behind him, and the common sentiment of society
+behind him, and God and the whole universe behind him. Wedged on one leg
+in a hot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> crowd at a trivial lecture, he has self-respect; his dignity
+is at rest. That is what he means when he says he is bound to come to
+the lecture.</p>
+
+<p>Now the Englishman is fond of occasional larks. But these things are not
+larks; nor are they occasional. It is the essential of the Englishman's
+lark that he should think it a lark; that he should laugh at it even
+when he does it. Being English myself, I like it; but being English
+myself, I know it is connected with weaknesses as well as merits. In its
+irony there is condescension and therefore embarrassment. This patronage
+is allied to the patron, and the patron is allied to the aristocratic
+tradition of society. The larks are a variant of laziness because of
+leisure; and the leisure is a variant of the security and even supremacy
+of the gentleman. When an undergraduate at Oxford smashes half a hundred
+windows he is well aware that the incident is merely a trifle. He can be
+trusted to explain to his parents and guardians that it was merely a
+trifle. He does not say, even in the American sense, that he was bound
+to smash the windows. He does not say that he had risen from a sick-bed
+to smash the windows. He does not especially think he has risen at all;
+he knows he has descended (though with delight, like one diving or
+sliding down the banisters) to something flat and farcical and full of
+the English taste for the bathos. He has collapsed into something
+entirely commonplace; though the owners of the windows may possibly not
+think so. This rather indescribable element runs through a hundred
+English things, as in the love of bathos shown even in the sound of
+proper names; so that even the yearning lover in a lyric yearns for
+somebody named Sally<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> rather than Salome, and for a place called Wapping
+rather than a place called Westermain. Even in the relapse into
+rowdiness there is a sort of relapse into comfort. There is also what is
+so large a part of comfort; carelessness. The undergraduate breaks
+windows because he does not care about windows, not because he does care
+about more fresh air like a hygienist, or about more light like a German
+poet. Still less does he heroically smash a hundred windows because they
+come between him and the voice of Mrs. Asquith. But least of all does he
+do it because he seriously prides himself on the energy apart from its
+aim, and on the will-power that carries it through. He is not 'bound' to
+smash the windows, even in the sense of being bent upon it. He is not
+bound at all but rather relaxed; and his violence is not only a
+relaxation but a laxity. Finally, this is shown in the fact that he only
+smashes windows when he is in the mood to smash windows; when some
+fortunate conjunction of stars and all the tints and nuances of nature
+whisper to him that it would be well to smash windows. But the American
+is always ready, at any moment, to waste his energies on the wilder and
+more suicidal course of going to lectures. And this is because to him
+such excitement is not a mood but a moral ideal. As I note in another
+connection, much of the English mystery would be clear to Americans if
+they understood the word 'mood.' Englishmen are very moody, especially
+when they smash windows. But I doubt if many Americans understand
+exactly what we mean by the mood; especially the passive mood.</p>
+
+<p>It is only by trying to get some notion of all this that an Englishman
+can enjoy the final crown and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> fruit of all international friendship;
+which is really liking an American to be American. If we only think that
+parts of him are excellent because parts of him are English, it would be
+far more sensible to stop at home and possibly enjoy the society of a
+whole complete Englishman. But anybody who does understand this can take
+the same pleasure in an American being American that he does in a
+thunderbolt being swift and a barometer being sensitive. He can see that
+a vivid sensibility and vigilance really radiate outwards through all
+the ramifications of machinery and even of materialism. He can see that
+the American uses his great practical powers upon very small
+provocation; but he can also see that there is a kind of sense of
+honour, like that of a duellist, in his readiness to be provoked.
+Indeed, there is some parallel between the American man of action,
+however vulgar his aims, and the old feudal idea of the gentleman with a
+sword at his side. The gentleman may have been proud of being strong or
+sturdy; he may too often have been proud of being thick-headed; but he
+was not proud of being thick-skinned. On the contrary, he was proud of
+being thin-skinned. He also seriously thought that sensitiveness was a
+part of masculinity. It may be very absurd to read of two Irish
+gentlemen trying to kill each other for trifles, or of two
+Irish-American millionaires trying to ruin each other for trash. But the
+very pettiness of the pretext and even the purpose illustrates the same
+conception; which may be called the virtue of excitability. And it is
+really this, and not any rubbish about iron will-power and masterful
+mentality, that redeems with romance their clockwork cosmos and its
+industrial ideals. Being a live<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> wire does not mean that the nerves
+should be like wires; but rather that the very wires should be like
+nerves.</p>
+
+<p>Another approximation to the truth would be to say that an American is
+really not ashamed of curiosity. It is not so simple as it looks. Men
+will carry off curiosity with various kinds of laughter and bravado,
+just as they will carry off drunkenness or bankruptcy. But very few
+people are really proud of lying on a door-step, and very few people are
+really proud of longing to look through a key-hole. I do not speak of
+looking through it, which involves questions of honour and self-control;
+but few people feel that even the desire is dignified. Now I fancy the
+American, at least by comparison with the Englishman, does feel that his
+curiosity is consistent with his dignity, because dignity is consistent
+with vivacity. He feels it is not merely the curiosity of Paul Pry, but
+the curiosity of Christopher Columbus. He is not a spy but an explorer;
+and he feels his greatness rather grow with his refusal to turn back, as
+a traveller might feel taller and taller as he neared the source of the
+Nile or the North-West Passage. Many an Englishman has had that feeling
+about discoveries in dark continents; but he does not often have it
+about discoveries in daily life. The one type does believe in the
+indignity and the other in the dignity of the detective. It has nothing
+to do with ethics in the merely external sense. It involves no
+particular comparison in practical morals and manners. It is something
+in the whole poise and posture of the self; of the way a man carries
+himself. For men are not only affected by what they are; but still more,
+when they are fools, by what they think they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> are; and when they are
+wise, by what they wish to be.</p>
+
+<p>There are truths that have almost become untrue by becoming untruthful.
+There are statements so often stale and insincere that one hesitates to
+use them, even when they stand for something more subtle. This point
+about curiosity is not the conventional complaint against the American
+interviewer. It is not the ordinary joke against the American child. And
+in the same way I feel the danger of it being identified with the cant
+about 'a young nation' if I say that it has some of the attractions, not
+of American childhood, but of real childhood. There is some truth in the
+tradition that the children of wealthy Americans tend to be too
+precocious and luxurious. But there is a sense in which we can really
+say that if the children are like adults, the adults are like children.
+And that sense is in the very best sense of childhood. It is something
+which the modern world does not understand. It is something that modern
+Americans do not understand, even when they possess it; but I think they
+do possess it.</p>
+
+<p>The devil can quote Scripture for his purpose; and the text of Scripture
+which he now most commonly quotes is, 'The kingdom of heaven is within
+you.' That text has been the stay and support of more Pharisees and
+prigs and self-righteous spiritual bullies than all the dogmas in
+creation; it has served to identify self-satisfaction with the peace
+that passes all understanding. And the text to be quoted in answer to it
+is that which declares that no man can receive the kingdom except as a
+little child. What we are to have inside is the childlike spirit; but
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> childlike spirit is not entirely concerned about what is inside. It
+is the first mark of possessing it that one is interested in what is
+outside. The most childlike thing about a child is his curiosity and his
+appetite and his power of wonder at the world. We might almost say that
+the whole advantage of having the kingdom within is that we look for it
+somewhere else.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_Spirit_of_England" id="The_Spirit_of_England"></a><i>The Spirit of England</i></h2>
+
+<p>Nine times out of ten a man's broad-mindedness is necessarily the
+narrowest thing about him. This is not particularly paradoxical; it is,
+when we come to think of it, quite inevitable. His vision of his own
+village may really be full of varieties; and even his vision of his own
+nation may have a rough resemblance to the reality. But his vision of
+the world is probably smaller than the world. His vision of the universe
+is certainly much smaller than the universe. Hence he is never so
+inadequate as when he is universal; he is never so limited as when he
+generalises. This is the fallacy in the many modern attempts at a
+creedless creed, at something variously described as essential
+Christianity or undenominational religion or a world faith to embrace
+all the faiths in the world. It is that every sectarian is more
+sectarian in his unsectarianism than he is in his sect. The emancipation
+of a Baptist is a very Baptist emancipation. The charity of a Buddhist
+is a very Buddhist charity, and very different from Christian charity.
+When a philosophy embraces everything it generally squeezes everything,
+and squeezes it out of shape; when it digests it necessarily
+assimilates. When a theosophist absorbs Christianity it is rather as a
+cannibal absorbs Christian missionaries. In this sense it is even
+possible for the larger thing to be swallowed by the smaller; and for
+men to move about not only in a Clapham sect but in a Clapham cosmos
+under Clapham moon and stars.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span></p><p>But if this danger exists for all men, it exists especially for the
+Englishman. The Englishman is never so insular as when he is imperial;
+except indeed when he is international. In private life he is a good
+friend and in practical politics generally a good ally. But theoretical
+politics are more practical than practical politics. And in theoretical
+politics the Englishman is the worst ally the world ever saw. This is
+all the more curious because he has passed so much of his historical
+life in the character of an ally. He has been in twenty great alliances
+and never understood one of them. He has never been farther away from
+European politics than when he was fighting heroically in the thick of
+them. I myself think that this splendid isolation is sometimes really
+splendid; so long as it is isolation and does not imagine itself to be
+imperialism or internationalism. With the idea of being international,
+with the idea of being imperial, comes the frantic and farcical idea of
+being impartial. Generally speaking, men are never so mean and false and
+hypocritical as when they are occupied in being impartial. They are
+performing the first and most typical of all the actions of the devil;
+they are claiming the throne of God. Even when it is not hypocrisy but
+only mental confusion, it is always a confusion worse and worse
+confounded. We see it in the impartial historians of the Victorian Age,
+who now seem far more Victorian than the partial historians. Hallam
+wrote about the Middle Ages; but Hallam was far less mediaeval than
+Macaulay; for Macaulay was at least a fighter. Huxley had more mediaeval
+sympathies than Herbert Spencer for the same reason; that Huxley was a
+fighter. They both fought in many ways for the limitations of their own
+rationalistic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> epoch; but they were nearer the truth than the men who
+simply assumed those limitations as rational. The war of the
+controversionalists was a wider thing than the peace of the arbiters.
+And in the same way the Englishman never cuts a less convincing figure
+before other nations than when he tries to arbitrate between them.</p>
+
+<p>I have by this time heard a great deal about the necessity of saving
+Anglo-American friendship, a necessity which I myself feel rather too
+strongly to be satisfied with the ambassadorial and editorial style of
+achieving it. I have already said that the worst style of all is to be
+Anglo-American; or, as the more illiterate would express, to be
+Anglo-Saxon. I am more and more convinced that the way for the
+Englishman to do it is to be English; but to know that he is English and
+not everything else as well. Thus the only sincere answer to Irish
+nationalism is English nationalism, which is a reality; and not English
+imperialism, which is a reactionary fiction, or English
+internationalism, which is a revolutionary one.</p>
+
+<p>For the English are reviled for their imperialism because they are not
+imperialistic. They dislike it, which is the real reason why they do it
+badly; and they do it badly, which is the real reason why they are
+disliked when they do it. Nobody calls France imperialistic because she
+has absorbed Brittany. But everybody calls England imperialistic because
+she has not absorbed Ireland. The Englishman is fixed and frozen for
+ever in the attitude of a ruthless conqueror; not because he has
+conquered such people, but because he has not conquered them; but he is
+always trying to conquer them with a heroism worthy of a better<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> cause.
+For the really native and vigorous part of what is unfortunately called
+the British Empire is not an empire at all, and does not consist of
+these conquered provinces at all. It is not an empire but an adventure;
+which is probably a much finer thing. It was not the power of making
+strange countries similar to our own, but simply the pleasure of seeing
+strange countries because they were different from our own. The
+adventurer did indeed, like the third son, set out to seek his fortune,
+but not primarily to alter other people's fortunes; he wished to trade
+with people rather than to rule them. But as the other people remained
+different from him, so did he remain different from them. The adventurer
+saw a thousand strange things and remained a stranger. He was the
+Robinson Crusoe on a hundred desert islands; and on each he remained as
+insular as on his own island.</p>
+
+<p>What is wanted for the cause of England to-day is an Englishman with
+enough imagination to love his country from the outside as well as the
+inside. That is, we need somebody who will do for the English what has
+never been done for them, but what is done for any outlandish peasantry
+or even any savage tribe. We want people who can make England
+attractive; quite apart from disputes about whether England is strong or
+weak. We want somebody to explain, not that England is everywhere, but
+what England is anywhere; not that England is or is not really dying,
+but why we do not want her to die. For this purpose the official and
+conventional compliments or claims can never get any farther than
+pompous abstractions about Law and Justice and Truth; the ideals which
+England accepts as every civilised state accepts them,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> and violates as
+every civilised state violates them. That is not the way in which the
+picture of any people has ever been painted on the sympathetic
+imagination of the world. Enthusiasts for old Japan did not tell us that
+the Japs recognised the existence of abstract morality; but that they
+lived in paper houses or wrote letters with paint-brushes. Men who
+wished to interest us in Arabs did not confine themselves to saying that
+they are monotheists or moralists; they filled our romances with the
+rush of Arab steeds or the colours of strange tents or carpets. What we
+want is somebody who will do for the Englishman with his front garden
+what was done for the Jap and his paper house; who shall understand the
+Englishman with his dog as well as the Arab with his horse. In a word,
+what nobody has really tried to do is the one thing that really wants
+doing. It is to make England attractive as a nationality, and even as a
+small nationality.</p>
+
+<p>For it is a wild folly to suppose that nations will love each other
+because they are alike. They will never really do that unless they are
+really alike; and then they will not be nations. Nations can love each
+other as men and women love each other, not because they are alike but
+because they are different. It can easily be shown, I fancy, that in
+every case where a real public sympathy was aroused for some unfortunate
+foreign people, it has always been accompanied with a particular and
+positive interest in their most foreign customs and their most foreign
+externals. The man who made a romance of the Scotch High-lander made a
+romance of his kilt and even of his dirk; the friend of the Red Indians
+was interested in picture writing and had some tendency to be
+interested<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> in scalping. To take a more serious example, such nations as
+Serbia had been largely commended to international consideration by the
+study of Serbian epics, or Serbian songs. The epoch of negro
+emancipation was also the epoch of negro melodies. Those who wept over
+Uncle Tom also laughed over Uncle Remus. And just as the admiration for
+the Redskin almost became an apology for scalping, the mysterious
+fascination of the African has sometimes almost led us into the fringes
+of the black forest of Voodoo. But the sort of interest that is felt
+even in the scalp-hunter and the cannibal, the torturer and the
+devil-worshipper, that sort of interest has never been felt in the
+Englishman.</p>
+
+<p>And this is the more extraordinary because the Englishman is really very
+interesting. He is interesting in a special degree in this special
+manner; he is interesting because he is individual. No man in the world
+is more misrepresented by everything official or even in the ordinary
+sense national. A description of English life must be a description of
+private life. In that sense there is no public life. In that sense there
+is no public opinion. There have never been those prairie fires of
+public opinion in England which often sweep over America. At any rate,
+there have never been any such popular revolutions since the popular
+revolutions of the Middle Ages. The English are a nation of amateurs;
+they are even a nation of eccentrics. An Englishman is never more
+English than when he is considered a lunatic by the other Englishmen.
+This can be clearly seen in a figure like Dr. Johnson, who has become
+national not by being normal but by being extraordinary. To express this
+mysterious people, to explain or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> suggest why they like tall hedges and
+heavy breakfasts and crooked roads and small gardens with large fences,
+and why they alone among Christians have kept quite consistently the
+great Christian glory of the open fireplace, here would be a strange and
+stimulating opportunity for any of the artists in words, who study the
+souls of strange peoples. That would be the true way to create a
+friendship between England and America, or between England and anything
+else; yes, even between England and Ireland. For this justice at least
+has already been done to Ireland; and as an indignant patriot I demand a
+more equal treatment for the two nations.</p>
+
+<p>I have already noted the commonplace that in order to teach
+internationalism we must talk nationalism. We must make the nations as
+nations less odious or mysterious to each other. We do not make men love
+each other by describing a monster with a million arms and legs, but by
+describing the men as men, with their separate and even solitary
+emotions. As this has a particular application to the emotions of the
+Englishman, I will return to the topic once more. Now Americans have a
+power that is the soul and success of democracy, the power of
+spontaneous social organisation. Their high spirits, their humane ideals
+are really creative, they abound in unofficial institutions; we might
+almost say in unofficial officialism. Nobody who has felt the presence
+of all the leagues and guilds and college clubs will deny that Whitman
+was national when he said he would build states and cities out of the
+love of comrades. When all this communal enthusiasm collides with the
+Englishman, it too often seems literally to leave him cold. They say he
+is reserved; they possibly think he is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> rude. And the Englishman, having
+been taught his own history all wrong, is only too likely to take the
+criticism as a compliment. He admits that he is reserved because he is
+stern and strong; or even that he is rude because he is shrewd and
+candid. But as a fact he is not rude and not especially reserved; at
+least reserve is not the meaning of his reluctance. The real difference
+lies, I think, in the fact that American high spirits are not only high
+but level; that the hilarious American spirit is like a plateau, and the
+humorous English spirit like a ragged mountain range.</p>
+
+<p>The Englishman is moody; which does not in the least mean that the
+Englishman is morose. Dickens, as we all feel in reading his books, was
+boisterously English. Dickens was moody when he wrote <i>Oliver Twist</i>;
+but he was also moody when he wrote <i>Pickwick</i>. That is, he was in
+another and much healthier mood. The mood was normal to him in the sense
+that nine times out of ten he felt and wrote in that humorous and
+hilarious mood. But he was, if ever there was one, a man of moods; and
+all the more of a typical Englishman for being a man of moods. But it
+was because of this, almost entirely, that he had a misunderstanding
+with America.</p>
+
+<p>In America there are no moods, or there is only one mood. It is the same
+whether it is called hustle or uplift; whether we regard it as the
+heroic love of comrades or the last hysteria of the herd instinct. It
+has been said of the typical English aristocrats of the Government
+offices that they resemble certain ornamental fountains and play from
+ten till four; and it is true that an Englishman, even an English
+aristocrat, is not always inclined to play any more than to work. But
+American sociability is not like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> the Trafalgar fountains. It is like
+Niagara. It never stops, under the silent stars or the rolling storms.
+There seems always to be the same human heat and pressure behind it; it
+is like the central heating of hotels as explained in the advertisements
+and announcements. The temperature can be regulated; but it is not. And
+it is always rather overpowering for an Englishman, whose mood changes
+like his own mutable and shifting sky. The English mood is very like the
+English weather; it is a nuisance and a national necessity.</p>
+
+<p>If any one wishes to understand the quarrel between Dickens and the
+Americans, let him turn to that chapter in <i>Martin Chuzzlewit</i>, in which
+young Martin has to receive endless defiles and deputations of total
+strangers each announced by name and demanding formal salutation. There
+are several things to be noticed about this incident. To begin with, it
+did not happen to Martin Chuzzlewit; but it did happen to Charles
+Dickens. Dickens is incorporating almost without alteration a passage
+from a diary in the middle of a story; as he did when he included the
+admirable account of the prison petition of John Dickens as the prison
+petition of Wilkins Micawber. There is no particular reason why even the
+gregarious Americans should so throng the portals of a perfectly obscure
+steerage passenger like young Chuzzlewit. There was every reason why
+they should throng the portals of the author of <i>Pickwick</i> and <i>Oliver
+Twist</i>. And no doubt they did. If I may be permitted the aleatory image,
+you bet they did. Similar troops of sociable human beings have visited
+much more insignificant English travellers in America, with some of whom
+I am myself acquainted. I myself have the luck to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> a little more
+stodgy and less sensitive than many of my countrymen; and certainly less
+sensitive than Dickens. But I know what it was that annoyed him about
+that unending and unchanging stream of American visitors; it was the
+unending and unchanging stream of American sociability and high spirits.
+A people living on such a lofty but level tableland do not understand
+the ups and downs of the English temperament; the temper of a nation of
+eccentrics or (as they used to be called) of humorists. There is
+something very national in the very name of the old play of <i>Every Man
+in His Humour</i>. But the play more often acted in real life is 'Every Man
+Out of His Humour.' It is true, as Matthew Arnold said, that an
+Englishman wants to do as he likes; but it is not always true even that
+he likes what he likes. An Englishman can be friendly and yet not feel
+friendly. Or he can be friendly and yet not feel hospitable. Or he can
+feel hospitable and yet not welcome those whom he really loves. He can
+think, almost with tears of tenderness, about people at a distance who
+would be bores if they came in at the door.</p>
+
+<p>American sociability sweeps away any such subtlety. It cannot be
+expected to understand the paradox or perversity of the Englishman, who
+thus can feel friendly and avoid friends. That is the truth in the
+suggestion that Dickens was sentimental. It means that he probably felt
+most sociable when he was solitary. In all these attempts to describe
+the indescribable, to indicate the real but unconscious differences
+between the two peoples, I have tried to balance my words without the
+irrelevant bias of praise and blame. Both characteristics always cut
+both ways. On one side this comradeship makes possible a certain
+communal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> courage, a democratic derision of rich men in high places,
+that is not easy in our smaller and more stratified society. On the
+other hand the Englishman has certainly more liberty, if less equality
+and fraternity. But the richest compensation of the Englishman is not
+even in the word 'liberty,' but rather in the word 'poetry.' That humour
+of escape or seclusion, that genial isolation, that healing of wounded
+friendship by what Christian Science would call absent treatment, that
+is the best atmosphere of all for the creation of great poetry; and out
+of that came 'bare ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang' and
+'Thou wast not made for death, immortal bird.' In this sense it is
+indeed true that poetry is emotion remembered in tranquillity; which may
+be extended to mean affection remembered in loneliness. There is in it a
+spirit not only of detachment but even of distance; a spirit which does
+desire, as in the old English rhyme, to be not only over the hills but
+also far away. In other words, in so far as it is true that the
+Englishman is an exception to the great truth of Aristotle, it is
+because he is not so near to Aristotle as he is to Homer. In so far as
+he is not by nature a political animal, it is because he is a poetical
+animal. We see it in his relations to the other animals; his quaint and
+almost illogical love of dogs and horses and dependants whose political
+rights cannot possibly be defined in logic. Many forms of hunting or
+fishing are but an excuse for the same thing which the shameless
+literary man does without any excuse. Sport is speechless poetry. It
+would be easy for a foreigner, by taking a few liberties with the facts,
+to make a satire about the sort of silent Shelley who decides ultimately
+to shoot the skylark. It would be easy to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> answer these poetic
+suggestions by saying that he himself might be responsible for ruining
+the choirs where late the sweet birds sang, or that the immortal bird
+was likely to be mortal when he was out with his gun. But these
+international satires are never just; and the real relations of an
+Englishman and an English bird are far more delicate. It would be
+equally easy and equally unjust to suggest a similar satire against
+American democracy; and represent Americans merely as birds of a feather
+who can do nothing but flock together. But this would leave out the fact
+that at least it is not the white feather; that democracy is capable of
+defiance and of death for an idea. Touching the souls of great nations,
+these criticisms are generally false because they are critical.</p>
+
+<p>But when we are quite sure that we rejoice in a nation's strength, then
+and not before we are justified in judging its weakness. I am quite sure
+that I rejoice in any democratic success without <i>arri&egrave;re pens&eacute;e</i>; and
+nobody who knows me will credit me with a covert sneer at civic
+equality. And this being granted, I do think there is a danger in the
+gregariousness of American society. The danger of democracy is not
+anarchy; on the contrary, it is monotony. And it is touching this that
+all my experience has increased my conviction that a great deal that is
+called female emancipation has merely been the increase of female
+convention. Now the males of every community are far too conventional;
+it was the females who were individual and criticised the conventions of
+the tribe. If the females become conventional also, there is a danger of
+individuality being lost. This indeed is not peculiar to America; it is
+common to the whole modern industrial world, and to everything which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>
+substitutes the impersonal atmosphere of the State for the personal
+atmosphere of the home. But it is emphasised in America by the curious
+contradiction that Americans do in theory value and even venerate the
+individual. But individualism is still the foe of individuality. Where
+men are trying to compete with each other they are trying to copy each
+other. They become featureless by 'featuring' the same part.
+Personality, in becoming a conscious ideal, becomes a common ideal. In
+this respect perhaps there is really something to be learnt from the
+Englishman with his turn or twist in the direction of private life.
+Those who have travelled in such a fashion as to see all the American
+hotels and none of the American houses are sometimes driven to the
+excess of saying that the Americans have no private life. But even if
+the exaggeration has a hint of truth, we must balance it with the
+corresponding truth; that the English have no public life. They on their
+side have still to learn the meaning of the public thing, the republic;
+and how great are the dangers of cowardice and corruption when the very
+State itself has become a State secret.</p>
+
+<p>The English are patriotic; but patriotism is the unconscious form of
+nationalism. It is being national without understanding the meaning of a
+nation. The Americans are on the whole too self-conscious, kept moving
+too much in the pace of public life, with all its temptations to
+superficiality and fashion; too much aware of outside opinion and with
+too much appetite for outside criticism. But the English are much too
+unconscious; and would be the better for an increase in many forms of
+consciousness, including consciousness of sin. But even their sin is
+ignorance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> of their real virtue. The most admirable English things are
+not the things that are most admired by the English, or for which the
+English admire themselves. They are things now blindly neglected and in
+daily danger of being destroyed. It is all the worse that they should be
+destroyed, because there is really nothing like them in the world. That
+is why I have suggested a note of nationalism rather than patriotism for
+the English; the power of seeing their nation as a nation and not as the
+nature of things. We say of some ballad from the Balkans or some peasant
+costume in the Netherlands that it is unique; but the good things of
+England really are unique. Our very isolation from continental wars and
+revolutionary reconstructions have kept them unique. The particular kind
+of beauty there is in an English village, the particular kind of humour
+there is in an English public-house, are things that cannot be found in
+lands where the village is far more simply and equally governed, or
+where the vine is far more honourably served and praised. Yet we shall
+not save them by merely sinking into them with the conservative sort of
+contentment, even if the commercial rapacity of our plutocratic reforms
+would allow us to do so. We must in a sense get far away from England in
+order to behold her; we must rise above patriotism in order to be
+practically patriotic; we must have some sense of more varied and remote
+things before these vanishing virtues can be seen suddenly for what they
+are; almost as one might fancy that a man would have to rise to the
+dizziest heights of the divine understanding before he saw, as from a
+peak far above a whirlpool, how precious is his perishing soul.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="The_Future_of_Democracy" id="The_Future_of_Democracy"></a><i>The Future of Democracy</i></h2>
+
+<p>The title of this final chapter requires an apology. I do not need to be
+reminded, alas, that the whole book requires an apology. It is written
+in accordance with a ritual or custom in which I could see no particular
+harm, and which gives me a very interesting subject, but a custom which
+it would be not altogether easy to justify in logic. Everybody who goes
+to America for a short time is expected to write a book; and nearly
+everybody does. A man who takes a holiday at Trouville or Dieppe is not
+confronted on his return with the question, 'When is your book on France
+going to appear?' A man who betakes himself to Switzerland for the
+winter sports is not instantly pinned by the statement, 'I suppose your
+History of the Helvetian Republic is coming out this spring?' Lecturing,
+at least my kind of lecturing, is not much more serious or meritorious
+than ski-ing or sea-bathing; and it happens to afford the holiday-maker
+far less opportunity of seeing the daily life of the people. Of all this
+I am only too well aware; and my only defence is that I am at least
+sincere in my enjoyment and appreciation of America, and equally sincere
+in my interest in its most serious problem, which I think a very serious
+problem indeed; the problem of democracy in the modern world. Democracy
+may be a very obvious and facile affair for plutocrats and politicians
+who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> only have to use it as a rhetorical term. But democracy is a very
+serious problem for democrats. I certainly do not apologise for the word
+democracy; but I do apologise for the word future. I am no Futurist; and
+any conjectures I make must be taken with the grain of salt which is
+indeed the salt of the earth; the decent and moderate humility which
+comes from a belief in free will. That faith is in itself a divine
+doubt. I do not believe in any of the scientific predictions about
+mankind; I notice that they always fail to predict any of the purely
+human developments of men; I also notice that even their successes prove
+the same truth as their failures; for their successful predictions are
+not about men but about machines. But there are two things which a man
+may reasonably do, in stating the probabilities of a problem, which do
+not involve any claim to be a prophet. The first is to tell the truth,
+and especially the neglected truth, about the tendencies that have
+already accumulated in human history; any miscalculation about which
+must at least mislead us in any case. We cannot be certain of being
+right about the future; but we can be almost certain of being wrong
+about the future, if we are wrong about the past. The other thing that
+he can do is to note what ideas necessarily go together by their own
+nature; what ideas will triumph together or fall together. Hence it
+follows that this final chapter must consist of two things. The first is
+a summary of what has really happened to the idea of democracy in recent
+times; the second a suggestion of the fundamental doctrine which is
+necessary for its triumph at any time.</p>
+
+<p>The last hundred years has seen a general decline<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> in the democratic
+idea. If there be anybody left to whom this historical truth appears a
+paradox, it is only because during that period nobody has been taught
+history, least of all the history of ideas. If a sort of intellectual
+inquisition had been established, for the definition and differentiation
+of heresies, it would have been found that the original republican
+orthodoxy had suffered more and more from secessions, schisms, and
+backslidings. The highest point of democratic idealism and conviction
+was towards the end of the eighteenth century, when the American
+Republic was 'dedicated to the proposition that all men are equal.' It
+was then that the largest number of men had the most serious sort of
+conviction that the political problem could be solved by the vote of
+peoples instead of the arbitrary power of princes and privileged orders.
+These men encountered various difficulties and made various compromises
+in relation to the practical politics of their time; in England they
+preserved aristocracy; in America they preserved slavery. But though
+they had more difficulties, they had less doubts. Since their time
+democracy has been steadily disintegrated by doubts; and these political
+doubts have been contemporary with and often identical with religious
+doubts. This fact could be followed over almost the whole field of the
+modern world; in this place it will be more appropriate to take the
+great American example of slavery. I have found traces in all sorts of
+intelligent quarters of an extraordinary idea that all the Fathers of
+the Republic owned black men like beasts of burden because they knew no
+better, until the light of liberty was revealed to them by John Brown
+and Mrs. Beecher Stowe. One of the best weekly papers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> in England said
+recently that even those who drew up the Declaration of Independence did
+not include negroes in its generalisation about humanity. This is quite
+consistent with the current convention, in which we were all brought up;
+the theory that the heart of humanity broadens in ever larger circles of
+brotherhood, till we pass from embracing a black man to adoring a black
+beetle. Unfortunately it is quite inconsistent with the facts of
+American history. The facts show that, in this problem of the Old South,
+the eighteenth century was <i>more</i> liberal than the nineteenth century.
+There was <i>more</i> sympathy for the negro in the school of Jefferson than
+in the school of Jefferson Davis. Jefferson, in the dark estate of his
+simple Deism, said the sight of slavery in his country made him tremble,
+remembering that God is just. His fellow Southerners, after a century of
+the world's advance, said that slavery in itself was good, when they did
+not go farther and say that negroes in themselves were bad. And they
+were supported in this by the great and growing modern suspicion that
+nature is unjust. Difficulties seemed inevitably to delay justice, to
+the mind of Jefferson; but so they did to the mind of Lincoln. But that
+the slave was human and the servitude inhuman&mdash;that was, if anything,
+clearer to Jefferson than to Lincoln. The fact is that the utter
+separation and subordination of the black like a beast was a <i>progress</i>;
+it was a growth of nineteenth-century enlightenment and experiment; a
+triumph of science over superstition. It was 'the way the world was
+going,' as Matthew Arnold reverentially remarked in some connection;
+perhaps as part of a definition of God. Anyhow, it was not Jefferson's
+definition of God.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> He fancied, in his far-off patriarchal way, a Father
+who had made all men brothers; and brutally unbrotherly as was the
+practice, such democratical Deists never dreamed of denying the theory.
+It was not until the scientific sophistries began that brotherhood was
+really disputed. Gobineau, who began most of the modern talk about the
+superiority and inferiority of racial stocks, was seized upon eagerly by
+the less generous of the slave-owners and trumpeted as a new truth of
+science and a new defence of slavery. It was not really until the dawn
+of Darwinism, when all our social relations began to smell of the
+monkey-house, that men thought of the barbarian as only a first and the
+baboon as a second cousin. The full servile philosophy has been a modern
+and even a recent thing; made in an age whose invisible deity was the
+Missing Link. The Missing Link was a true metaphor in more ways than
+one; and most of all in its suggestion of a chain.</p>
+
+<p>By a symbolic coincidence, indeed, slavery grew more brazen and brutal
+under the encouragement of more than one movement of the progressive
+sort. Its youth was renewed for it by the industrial prosperity of
+Lancashire; and under that influence it became a commercial and
+competitive instead of a patriarchal and customary thing. We may say
+with no exaggerative irony that the unconscious patrons of slavery were
+Huxley and Cobden. The machines of Manchester were manufacturing a great
+many more things than the manufacturers knew or wanted to know; but they
+were certainly manufacturing the fetters of the slave, doubtless out of
+the best quality of steel and iron. But this is a minor illustration of
+the modern tendency, as compared with the main<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> stream of scepticism
+which was destroying democracy. Evolution became more and more a vision
+of the break-up of our brotherhood, till by the end of the nineteenth
+century the genius of its greatest scientific romancer saw it end in the
+anthropophagous antics of the Time Machine. So far from evolution
+lifting us above the idea of enslaving men, it was providing us at least
+with a logical and potential argument for eating them. In the case of
+the American negroes, it may be remarked, it does at any rate permit the
+preliminary course of roasting them. All this materialistic hardening,
+which replaced the remorse of Jefferson, was part of the growing
+evolutionary suspicion that savages were not a part of the human race,
+or rather that there was really no such thing as the human race. The
+South had begun by agreeing reluctantly to the enslavement of men. The
+South ended by agreeing equally reluctantly to the emancipation of
+monkeys.</p>
+
+<p>That is what had happened to the democratic ideal in a hundred years.
+Anybody can test it by comparing the final phase, I will not say with
+the ideal of Jefferson, but with the ideal of Johnson. There was far
+more horror of slavery in an eighteenth-century Tory like Dr. Johnson
+than in a nineteenth-century Democrat like Stephen Douglas. Stephen
+Douglas may be mentioned because he is a very representative type of the
+age of evolution and expansion; a man thinking in continents, like Cecil
+Rhodes, human and hopeful in a truly American fashion, and as a
+consequence cold and careless rather than hostile in the matter of the
+old mystical doctrines of equality. He 'did not care whether slavery was
+voted up or voted down.' His great opponent Lincoln did indeed care<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>
+very much. But it was an intense individual conviction with Lincoln
+exactly as it was with Johnson. I doubt if the spirit of the age was not
+much more behind Douglas and his westward expansion of the white race. I
+am sure that more and more men were coming to be in the particular
+mental condition of Douglas; men in whom the old moral and mystical
+ideals had been undermined by doubt but only with a negative effect of
+indifference. Their positive convictions were all concerned with what
+some called progress and some imperialism. It is true that there was a
+sincere sectional enthusiasm against slavery in the North; and that the
+slaves were actually emancipated in the nineteenth century. But I doubt
+whether the Abolitionists would ever have secured Abolition. Abolition
+was a by-product of the Civil War; which was fought for quite other
+reasons. Anyhow, if slavery had somehow survived to the age of Rhodes
+and Roosevelt and evolutionary imperialism, I doubt if the slaves would
+ever have been emancipated at all. Certainly if it had survived till the
+modern movement for the Servile State, they would never have been
+emancipated at all. Why should the world take the chains off the black
+man when it was just putting them on the white? And in so far as we owe
+the change to Lincoln, we owe it to Jefferson. Exactly what gives its
+real dignity to the figure of Lincoln is that he stands invoking a
+primitive first principle of the age of innocence, and holding up the
+tables of an ancient law, <i>against</i> the trend of the nineteenth century;
+repeating, 'We hold these truths to be self-evident; that all men are
+created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator, etc.,' to a
+generation that was more and more disposed to say something<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> like this:
+'We hold these truths to be probable enough for pragmatists; that all
+things looking like men were evolved somehow, being endowed by heredity
+and environment with no equal rights, but very unequal wrongs,' and so
+on. I do not believe that creed, left to itself, would ever have founded
+a state; and I am pretty certain that, left to itself, it would never
+have overthrown a slave state. What it did do, as I have said, was to
+produce some very wonderful literary and artistic flights of sceptical
+imagination. The world did have new visions, if they were visions of
+monsters in the moon and Martians striding about like spiders as tall as
+the sky, and the workmen and capitalists becoming two separate species,
+so that one could devour the other as gaily and greedily as a cat
+devours a bird. No one has done justice to the meaning of Mr. Wells and
+his original departure in fantastic fiction; to these nightmares that
+were the last apocalypse of the nineteenth century. They meant that the
+bottom had fallen out of the mind at last, that the bridge of
+brotherhood had broken down in the modern brain, letting up from the
+chasms this infernal light like a dawn. All had grown dizzy with degree
+and relativity; so that there would not be so very much difference
+between eating dog and eating darkie, or between eating darkie and
+eating dago. There were different sorts of apes; but there was no doubt
+that we were the superior sort.</p>
+
+<p>Against all this irresistible force stood one immovable post. Against
+all this dance of doubt and degree stood something that can best be
+symbolised by a simple example. An ape cannot be a priest, but a negro
+can be a priest. The dogmatic type of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>Christianity, especially the
+Catholic type of Christianity, had riveted itself irrevocably to the
+manhood of all men. Where its faith was fixed by creeds and councils it
+could not save itself even by surrender. It could not gradually dilute
+democracy, as could a merely sceptical or secular democrat. There stood,
+in fact or in possibility, the solid and smiling figure of a black
+bishop. And he was either a man claiming the most towering spiritual
+privileges of a man, or he was the mere buffoonery and blasphemy of a
+monkey in a mitre. That is the point about Christian and Catholic
+democracy; it is not that it is necessarily at any moment more
+democratic, it is that its indestructible minimum of democracy really is
+indestructible. And by the nature of things that mystical democracy was
+destined to survive, when every other sort of democracy was free to
+destroy itself. And whenever democracy destroying itself is suddenly
+moved to save itself, it always grasps at rag or tag of that old
+tradition that alone is sure of itself. Hundreds have heard the story
+about the mediaeval demagogue who went about repeating the rhyme</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>When Adam delved and Eve span,</div>
+<div>Who was then the gentleman?</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Many have doubtless offered the obvious answer to the question, 'The
+Serpent.' But few seem to have noticed what would be the more modern
+answer to the question, if that innocent agitator went about propounding
+it. 'Adam never delved and Eve never span, for the simple reason that
+they never existed. They are fragments of a Chaldeo-Babylonian mythos,
+and Adam is only a slight variation of Tag-Tug, pronounced Uttu. For the
+real beginning of humanity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> we refer you to Darwin's <i>Origin of
+Species</i>.' And then the modern man would go on to justify plutocracy to
+the mediaeval man by talking about the Struggle for Life and the
+Survival of the Fittest; and how the strongest man seized authority by
+means of anarchy, and proved himself a gentleman by behaving like a cad.
+Now I do not base my beliefs on the theology of John Ball, or on the
+literal and materialistic reading of the text of Genesis; though I think
+the story of Adam and Eve infinitely less absurd and unlikely than that
+of the prehistoric 'strongest man' who could fight a hundred men. But I
+do note the fact that the idealism of the leveller could be put in the
+form of an appeal to Scripture, and could not be put in the form of an
+appeal to Science. And I do note also that democrats were still driven
+to make the same appeal even in the very century of Science. Tennyson
+was, if ever there was one, an evolutionist in his vision and an
+aristocrat in his sympathies. He was always boasting that John Bull was
+evolutionary and not revolutionary, even as these Frenchmen. He did not
+pretend to have any creed beyond faintly trusting the larger hope. But
+when human dignity is really in danger, John Bull has to use the same
+old argument as John Ball. He tells Lady Clara Vere de Vere that 'the
+gardener Adam and his wife smile at the claim of long descent'; their
+own descent being by no means long. Lady Clara might surely have scored
+off him pretty smartly by quoting from 'Maud' and 'In Memoriam' about
+evolution and the eft that was lord of valley and hill. But Tennyson has
+evidently forgotten all about Darwin and the long descent of man. If
+this was true of an evolutionist like Tennyson, it was naturally ten
+times truer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> of a revolutionist like Jefferson. The Declaration of
+Independence dogmatically bases all rights on the fact that God created
+all men equal; and it is right; for if they were not created equal, they
+were certainly evolved unequal.</p>
+
+<p>There is no basis for democracy except in a dogma about the divine
+origin of man. That is a perfectly simple fact which the modern world
+will find out more and more to be a fact. Every other basis is a sort of
+sentimental confusion, full of merely verbal echoes of the older creeds.
+Those verbal associations are always vain for the vital purpose of
+constraining the tyrant. An idealist may say to a capitalist, 'Don't you
+sometimes feel in the rich twilight, when the lights twinkle from the
+distant hamlet in the hills, that all humanity is a holy family?' But it
+is equally possible for the capitalist to reply with brevity and
+decision, 'No, I don't,' and there is no more disputing about it further
+than about the beauty of a fading cloud. And the modern world of moods
+is a world of clouds, even if some of them are thunderclouds.</p>
+
+<p>For I have only taken here, as a convenient working model, the case of
+negro slavery; because it was long peculiar to America and is popularly
+associated with it. It is more and more obvious that the line is no
+longer running between black and white but between rich and poor. As I
+have already noted in the case of Prohibition, the very same arguments
+of the inevitable suicide of the ignorant, of the impossibility of
+freedom for the unfit, which were once applied to barbarians brought
+from Africa are now applied to citizens born in America. It is argued
+even by industrialists that industrialism has produced a class submerged
+below the status of emancipated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> mankind. They imply that the Missing
+Link is no longer missing, even from England or the Northern States, and
+that the factories have manufactured their own monkeys. Scientific
+hypotheses about the feeble-minded and the criminal type will supply the
+masters of the modern world with more and more excuses for denying the
+dogma of equality in the case of white labour as well as black. And any
+man who knows the world knows perfectly well that to tell the
+millionaires, or their servants, that they are disappointing the
+sentiments of Thomas Jefferson, or disregarding a creed composed in the
+eighteenth century, will be about as effective as telling them that they
+are not observing the creed of St. Athanasius or keeping the rule of St.
+Benedict.</p>
+
+<p>The world cannot keep its own ideals. The secular order cannot make
+secure any one of its own noble and natural conceptions of secular
+perfection. That will be found, as time goes on, the ultimate argument
+for a Church independent of the world and the secular order. What has
+become of all those ideal figures from the Wise Man of the Stoics to the
+democratic Deist of the eighteenth century? What has become of all that
+purely human hierarchy of chivalry, with its punctilious pattern of the
+good knight, its ardent ambition in the young squire? The very name of
+knight has come to represent the petty triumph of a profiteer, and the
+very word squire the petty tyranny of a landlord. What has become of all
+that golden liberality of the Humanists, who found on the high
+tablelands of the culture of Hellas the very balance of repose in beauty
+that is most lacking in the modern world? The very Greek language that
+they loved has become a mere label for snuffy and snobbish dons,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> and a
+mere cock-shy for cheap and half-educated utilitarians, who make it a
+symbol of superstition and reaction. We have lived to see a time when
+the heroic legend of the Republic and the Citizen, which seemed to
+Jefferson the eternal youth of the world, has begun to grow old in its
+turn. We cannot recover the earthly estate of knighthood, to which all
+the colours and complications of heraldry seemed as fresh and natural as
+flowers. We cannot re-enact the intellectual experiences of the
+Humanists, for whom the Greek grammar was like the song of a bird in
+spring. The more the matter is considered the clearer it will seem that
+these old experiences are now only alive, where they have found a
+lodgment in the Catholic tradition of Christendom, and made themselves
+friends for ever. St. Francis is the only surviving troubadour. St.
+Thomas More is the only surviving Humanist. St. Louis is the only
+surviving knight.</p>
+
+<p>It would be the worst sort of insincerity, therefore, to conclude even
+so hazy an outline of so great and majestic a matter as the American
+democratic experiment, without testifying my belief that to this also
+the same ultimate test will come. So far as that democracy becomes or
+remains Catholic and Christian, that democracy will remain democratic.
+In so far as it does not, it will become wildly and wickedly
+undemocratic. Its rich will riot with a brutal indifference far beyond
+the feeble feudalism which retains some shadow of responsibility or at
+least of patronage. Its wage-slaves will either sink into heathen
+slavery, or seek relief in theories that are destructive not merely in
+method but in aim; since they are but the negations of the human
+appetites of property and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span> personality. Eighteenth-century ideals,
+formulated in eighteenth-century language, have no longer in themselves
+the power to hold all those pagan passions back. Even those documents
+depended upon Deism; their real strength will survive in men who are
+still Deists; and the men who are still Deists are more than Deists. Men
+will more and more realise that there is no meaning in democracy if
+there is no meaning in anything; and that there is no meaning in
+anything if the universe has not a centre of significance and an
+authority that is the author of our rights. There is truth in every
+ancient fable, and there is here even something of it in the fancy that
+finds the symbol of the Republic in the bird that bore the bolts of
+Jove. Owls and bats may wander where they will in darkness, and for them
+as for the sceptics the universe may have no centre; kites and vultures
+may linger as they like over carrion, and for them as for the plutocrats
+existence may have no origin and no end; but it was far back in the land
+of legends, where instincts find their true images, that the cry went
+forth that freedom is an eagle, whose glory is gazing at the sun.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's What I Saw in America, by G. K. Chesterton
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of What I Saw in America, by G. K. Chesterton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: What I Saw in America
+
+Author: G. K. Chesterton
+
+Release Date: November 13, 2008 [EBook #27250]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Irma Spehar, Martin Pettit and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+WHAT I SAW IN AMERICA
+
+BY
+
+G. K. CHESTERTON
+
+HODDER AND STOUGHTON
+
+LIMITED LONDON
+
+MCMXXII
+
+Printed in Great Britain by T. and A. CONSTABLE LTD. at the Edinburgh
+University Press
+
+
+
+
+_Contents_
+
+ PAGE
+
+WHAT IS AMERICA? 1
+
+A MEDITATION IN A NEW YORK HOTEL 19
+
+A MEDITATION IN BROADWAY 33
+
+IRISH AND OTHER INTERVIEWERS 47
+
+SOME AMERICAN CITIES 63
+
+IN THE AMERICAN COUNTRY 80
+
+THE AMERICAN BUSINESS MAN 97
+
+PRESIDENTS AND PROBLEMS 121
+
+PROHIBITION IN FACT AND FANCY 145
+
+FADS AND PUBLIC OPINION 163
+
+THE EXTRAORDINARY AMERICAN 182
+
+THE REPUBLICAN IN THE RUINS 195
+
+IS THE ATLANTIC NARROWING? 208
+
+LINCOLN AND LOST CAUSES 222
+
+WELLS AND THE WORLD STATE 235
+
+A NEW MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT 253
+
+THE SPIRIT OF AMERICA 267
+
+THE SPIRIT OF ENGLAND 281
+
+THE FUTURE OF DEMOCRACY 295
+
+
+
+
+_What is America?_
+
+
+I have never managed to lose my old conviction that travel narrows the
+mind. At least a man must make a double effort of moral humility and
+imaginative energy to prevent it from narrowing his mind. Indeed there
+is something touching and even tragic about the thought of the
+thoughtless tourist, who might have stayed at home loving Laplanders,
+embracing Chinamen, and clasping Patagonians to his heart in Hampstead
+or Surbiton, but for his blind and suicidal impulse to go and see what
+they looked like. This is not meant for nonsense; still less is it meant
+for the silliest sort of nonsense, which is cynicism. The human bond
+that he feels at home is not an illusion. On the contrary, it is rather
+an inner reality. Man is inside all men. In a real sense any man may be
+inside any men. But to travel is to leave the inside and draw
+dangerously near the outside. So long as he thought of men in the
+abstract, like naked toiling figures in some classic frieze, merely as
+those who labour and love their children and die, he was thinking the
+fundamental truth about them. By going to look at their unfamiliar
+manners and customs he is inviting them to disguise themselves in
+fantastic masks and costumes. Many modern internationalists talk as if
+men of different nationalities had only to meet and mix and understand
+each other. In reality that is the moment of supreme danger--the moment
+when they meet. We might shiver, as at the old euphemism by which a
+meeting meant a duel.
+
+Travel ought to combine amusement with instruction; but most travellers
+are so much amused that they refuse to be instructed. I do not blame
+them for being amused; it is perfectly natural to be amused at a
+Dutchman for being Dutch or a Chinaman for being Chinese. Where they are
+wrong is that they take their own amusement seriously. They base on it
+their serious ideas of international instruction. It was said that the
+Englishman takes his pleasures sadly; and the pleasure of despising
+foreigners is one which he takes most sadly of all. He comes to scoff
+and does not remain to pray, but rather to excommunicate. Hence in
+international relations there is far too little laughing, and far too
+much sneering. But I believe that there is a better way which largely
+consists of laughter; a form of friendship between nations which is
+actually founded on differences. To hint at some such better way is the
+only excuse of this book.
+
+Let me begin my American impressions with two impressions I had before I
+went to America. One was an incident and the other an idea; and when
+taken together they illustrate the attitude I mean. The first principle
+is that nobody should be ashamed of thinking a thing funny because it is
+foreign; the second is that he should be ashamed of thinking it wrong
+because it is funny. The reaction of his senses and superficial habits
+of mind against something new, and to him abnormal, is a perfectly
+healthy reaction. But the mind which imagines that mere unfamiliarity
+can possibly prove anything about inferiority is a very inadequate mind.
+It is inadequate even in criticising things that may really be inferior
+to the things involved here. It is far better to laugh at a negro for
+having a black face than to sneer at him for having a sloping skull. It
+is proportionally even more preferable to laugh rather than judge in
+dealing with highly civilised peoples. Therefore I put at the beginning
+two working examples of what I felt about America before I saw it; the
+sort of thing that a man has a right to enjoy as a joke, and the sort of
+thing he has a duty to understand and respect, because it is the
+explanation of the joke.
+
+When I went to the American consulate to regularise my passports, I was
+capable of expecting the American consulate to be American. Embassies
+and consulates are by tradition like islands of the soil for which they
+stand; and I have often found the tradition corresponding to a truth. I
+have seen the unmistakable French official living on omelettes and a
+little wine and serving his sacred abstractions under the last
+palm-trees fringing a desert. In the heat and noise of quarrelling Turks
+and Egyptians, I have come suddenly, as with the cool shock of his own
+shower-bath, on the listless amiability of the English gentleman. The
+officials I interviewed were very American, especially in being very
+polite; for whatever may have been the mood or meaning of Martin
+Chuzzlewit, I have always found Americans by far the politest people in
+the world. They put in my hands a form to be filled up, to all
+appearance like other forms I had filled up in other passport offices.
+But in reality it was very different from any form I had ever filled up
+in my life. At least it was a little like a freer form of the game
+called 'Confessions' which my friends and I invented in our youth; an
+examination paper containing questions like, 'If you saw a rhinoceros
+in the front garden, what would you do?' One of my friends, I remember,
+wrote, 'Take the pledge.' But that is another story, and might bring Mr.
+Pussyfoot Johnson on the scene before his time.
+
+One of the questions on the paper was, 'Are you an anarchist?' To which
+a detached philosopher would naturally feel inclined to answer, 'What
+the devil has that to do with you? Are you an atheist?' along with some
+playful efforts to cross-examine the official about what constitutes an
+[Greek: arche]. Then there was the question, 'Are you in favour of
+subverting the government of the United States by force?' Against this I
+should write, 'I prefer to answer that question at the end of my tour
+and not the beginning.' The inquisitor, in his more than morbid
+curiosity, had then written down, 'Are you a polygamist?' The answer to
+this is, 'No such luck' or 'Not such a fool,' according to our
+experience of the other sex. But perhaps a better answer would be that
+given to W. T. Stead when he circulated the rhetorical question, 'Shall
+I slay my brother Boer?'--the answer that ran, 'Never interfere in
+family matters.' But among many things that amused me almost to the
+point of treating the form thus disrespectfully, the most amusing was
+the thought of the ruthless outlaw who should feel compelled to treat it
+respectfully. I like to think of the foreign desperado, seeking to slip
+into America with official papers under official protection, and sitting
+down to write with a beautiful gravity, 'I am an anarchist. I hate you
+all and wish to destroy you.' Or, 'I intend to subvert by force the
+government of the United States as soon as possible, sticking the long
+sheath-knife in my left trouser-pocket into Mr. Harding at the earliest
+opportunity.' Or again, 'Yes, I am a polygamist all right, and my
+forty-seven wives are accompanying me on the voyage disguised as
+secretaries.' There seems to be a certain simplicity of mind about these
+answers; and it is reassuring to know that anarchists and polygamists
+are so pure and good that the police have only to ask them questions and
+they are certain to tell no lies.
+
+Now that is a model of the sort of foreign practice, founded on foreign
+problems, at which a man's first impulse is naturally to laugh. Nor have
+I any intention of apologising for my laughter. A man is perfectly
+entitled to laugh at a thing because he happens to find it
+incomprehensible. What he has no right to do is to laugh at it as
+incomprehensible, and then criticise it as if he comprehended it. The
+very fact of its unfamiliarity and mystery ought to set him thinking
+about the deeper causes that make people so different from himself, and
+that without merely assuming that they must be inferior to himself.
+
+Superficially this is rather a queer business. It would be easy enough
+to suggest that in this America has introduced a quite abnormal spirit
+of inquisition; an interference with liberty unknown among all the
+ancient despotisms and aristocracies. About that there will be something
+to be said later; but superficially it is true that this degree of
+officialism is comparatively unique. In a journey which I took only the
+year before I had occasion to have my papers passed by governments which
+many worthy people in the West would vaguely identify with corsairs and
+assassins; I have stood on the other side of Jordan, in the land ruled
+by a rude Arab chief, where the police looked so like brigands that one
+wondered what the brigands looked like. But they did not ask me whether
+I had come to subvert the power of the Shereef; and they did not exhibit
+the faintest curiosity about my personal views on the ethical basis of
+civil authority. These ministers of ancient Moslem despotism did not
+care about whether I was an anarchist; and naturally would not have
+minded if I had been a polygamist. The Arab chief was probably a
+polygamist himself. These slaves of Asiatic autocracy were content, in
+the old liberal fashion, to judge me by my actions; they did not inquire
+into my thoughts. They held their power as limited to the limitation of
+practice; they did not forbid me to hold a theory. It would be easy to
+argue here that Western democracy persecutes where even Eastern
+despotism tolerates or emancipates. It would be easy to develop the
+fancy that, as compared with the sultans of Turkey or Egypt, the
+American Constitution is a thing like the Spanish Inquisition.
+
+Only the traveller who stops at that point is totally wrong; and the
+traveller only too often does stop at that point. He has found something
+to make him laugh, and he will not suffer it to make him think. And the
+remedy is not to unsay what he has said, not even, so to speak, to
+unlaugh what he has laughed, not to deny that there is something unique
+and curious about this American inquisition into our abstract opinions,
+but rather to continue the train of thought, and follow the admirable
+advice of Mr. H. G. Wells, who said, 'It is not much good thinking of a
+thing unless you think it out.' It is not to deny that American
+officialism is rather peculiar on this point, but to inquire what it
+really is which makes America peculiar, or which is peculiar to America.
+In short, it is to get some ultimate idea of what America _is_; and the
+answer to that question will reveal something much deeper and grander
+and more worthy of our intelligent interest.
+
+It may have seemed something less than a compliment to compare the
+American Constitution to the Spanish Inquisition. But oddly enough, it
+does involve a truth; and still more oddly perhaps, it does involve a
+compliment. The American Constitution does resemble the Spanish
+Inquisition in this: that it is founded on a creed. America is the only
+nation in the world that is founded on a creed. That creed is set forth
+with dogmatic and even theological lucidity in the Declaration of
+Independence; perhaps the only piece of practical politics that is also
+theoretical politics and also great literature. It enunciates that all
+men are equal in their claim to justice, that governments exist to give
+them that justice, and that their authority is for that reason just. It
+certainly does condemn anarchism, and it does also by inference condemn
+atheism, since it clearly names the Creator as the ultimate authority
+from whom these equal rights are derived. Nobody expects a modern
+political system to proceed logically in the application of such dogmas,
+and in the matter of God and Government it is naturally God whose claim
+is taken more lightly. The point is that there is a creed, if not about
+divine, at least about human things.
+
+Now a creed is at once the broadest and the narrowest thing in the
+world. In its nature it is as broad as its scheme for a brotherhood of
+all men. In its nature it is limited by its definition of the nature of
+all men. This was true of the Christian Church, which was truly said to
+exclude neither Jew nor Greek, but which did definitely substitute
+something else for Jewish religion or Greek philosophy. It was truly
+said to be a net drawing in of all kinds; but a net of a certain
+pattern, the pattern of Peter the Fisherman. And this is true even of
+the most disastrous distortions or degradations of that creed; and true
+among others of the Spanish Inquisition. It may have been narrow
+touching theology, it could not confess to being narrow about
+nationality or ethnology. The Spanish Inquisition might be admittedly
+Inquisitorial; but the Spanish Inquisition could not be merely Spanish.
+Such a Spaniard, even when he was narrower than his own creed, had to be
+broader than his own empire. He might burn a philosopher because he was
+heterodox; but he must accept a barbarian because he was orthodox. And
+we see, even in modern times, that the same Church which is blamed for
+making sages heretics is also blamed for making savages priests. Now in
+a much vaguer and more evolutionary fashion, there is something of the
+same idea at the back of the great American experiment; the experiment
+of a democracy of diverse races which has been compared to a
+melting-pot. But even that metaphor implies that the pot itself is of a
+certain shape and a certain substance; a pretty solid substance. The
+melting-pot must not melt. The original shape was traced on the lines of
+Jeffersonian democracy; and it will remain in that shape until it
+becomes shapeless. America invites all men to become citizens; but it
+implies the dogma that there is such a thing as citizenship. Only, so
+far as its primary ideal is concerned, its exclusiveness is religious
+because it is not racial. The missionary can condemn a cannibal,
+precisely because he cannot condemn a Sandwich Islander. And in
+something of the same spirit the American may exclude a polygamist,
+precisely because he cannot exclude a Turk.
+
+Now for America this is no idle theory. It may have been theoretical,
+though it was thoroughly sincere, when that great Virginian gentleman
+declared it in surroundings that still had something of the character of
+an English countryside. It is not merely theoretical now. There is
+nothing to prevent America being literally invaded by Turks, as she is
+invaded by Jews or Bulgars. In the most exquisitely inconsequent of the
+_Bab Ballads_, we are told concerning Pasha Bailey Ben:--
+
+
+ One morning knocked at half-past eight
+ A tall Red Indian at his gate.
+ In Turkey, as you 'r' p'raps aware,
+ Red Indians are extremely rare.
+
+
+But the converse need by no means be true. There is nothing in the
+nature of things to prevent an emigration of Turks increasing and
+multiplying on the plains where the Red Indians wandered; there is
+nothing to necessitate the Turks being extremely rare. The Red Indians,
+alas, are likely to be rarer. And as I much prefer Red Indians to Turks,
+not to mention Jews, I speak without prejudice; but the point here is
+that America, partly by original theory and partly by historical
+accident, does lie open to racial admixtures which most countries would
+think incongruous or comic. That is why it is only fair to read any
+American definitions or rules in a certain light, and relatively to a
+rather unique position. It is not fair to compare the position of those
+who may meet Turks in the back street with that of those who have never
+met Turks except in the _Bab Ballads_. It is not fair simply to compare
+America with England in its regulations about the Turk. In short, it is
+not fair to do what almost every Englishman probably does; to look at
+the American international examination paper, and laugh and be satisfied
+with saying, 'We don't have any of that nonsense in England.'
+
+We do not have any of that nonsense in England because we have never
+attempted to have any of that philosophy in England. And, above all,
+because we have the enormous advantage of feeling it natural to be
+national, because there is nothing else to be. England in these days is
+not well governed; England is not well educated; England suffers from
+wealth and poverty that are not well distributed. But England is
+English; _esto perpetua_. England is English as France is French or
+Ireland Irish; the great mass of men taking certain national traditions
+for granted. Now this gives us a totally different and a very much
+easier task. We have not got an inquisition, because we have not got a
+creed; but it is arguable that we do not need a creed, because we have
+got a character. In any of the old nations the national unity is
+preserved by the national type. Because we have a type we do not need to
+have a test.
+
+Take that innocent question, 'Are you an anarchist?' which is
+intrinsically quite as impudent as 'Are you an optimist?' or 'Are you a
+philanthropist?' I am not discussing here whether these things are
+right, but whether most of us are in a position to know them rightly.
+Now it is quite true that most Englishmen do not find it necessary to go
+about all day asking each other whether they are anarchists. It is quite
+true that the phrase occurs on no British forms that I have seen. But
+this is not only because most of the Englishmen are not anarchists. It
+is even more because even the anarchists are Englishmen. For instance,
+it would be easy to make fun of the American formula by noting that the
+cap would fit all sorts of bald academic heads. It might well be
+maintained that Herbert Spencer was an anarchist. It is practically
+certain that Auberon Herbert was an anarchist. But Herbert Spencer was
+an extraordinarily typical Englishman of the Nonconformist middle class.
+And Auberon Herbert was an extraordinarily typical English aristocrat of
+the old and genuine aristocracy. Every one knew in his heart that the
+squire would not throw a bomb at the Queen, and the Nonconformist would
+not throw a bomb at anybody. Every one knew that there was something
+subconscious in a man like Auberon Herbert, which would have come out
+only in throwing bombs at the enemies of England; as it did come out in
+his son and namesake, the generous and unforgotten, who fell flinging
+bombs from the sky far beyond the German line. Every one knows that
+normally, in the last resort, the English gentleman is patriotic. Every
+one knows that the English Nonconformist is national even when he denies
+that he is patriotic. Nothing is more notable indeed than the fact that
+nobody is more stamped with the mark of his own nation than the man who
+says that there ought to be no nations. Somebody called Cobden the
+International Man; but no man could be more English than Cobden.
+Everybody recognises Tolstoy as the iconoclast of all patriotism; but
+nobody could be more Russian than Tolstoy. In the old countries where
+there are these national types, the types may be allowed to hold any
+theories. Even if they hold certain theories, they are unlikely to do
+certain things. So the conscientious objector, in the English sense,
+may be and is one of the peculiar by-products of England. But the
+conscientious objector will probably have a conscientious objection to
+throwing bombs.
+
+Now I am very far from intending to imply that these American tests are
+good tests, or that there is no danger of tyranny becoming the
+temptation of America. I shall have something to say later on about that
+temptation or tendency. Nor do I say that they apply consistently this
+conception of a nation with the soul of a church, protected by religious
+and not racial selection. If they did apply that principle consistently,
+they would have to exclude pessimists and rich cynics who deny the
+democratic ideal; an excellent thing but a rather improbable one. What I
+say is that when we realise that this principle exists at all, we see
+the whole position in a totally different perspective. We say that the
+Americans are doing something heroic, or doing something insane, or
+doing it in an unworkable or unworthy fashion, instead of simply
+wondering what the devil they are doing.
+
+When we realise the democratic design of such a cosmopolitan
+commonwealth, and compare it with our insular reliance or instincts, we
+see at once why such a thing has to be not only democratic but dogmatic.
+We see why in some points it tends to be inquisitive or intolerant. Any
+one can see the practical point by merely transferring into private life
+a problem like that of the two academic anarchists, who might by a
+coincidence be called the two Herberts. Suppose a man said, 'Buffle, my
+old Oxford tutor, wants to meet you; I wish you'd ask him down for a day
+or two. He has the oddest opinions, but he's very stimulating.' It would
+not occur to us that the oddity of the Oxford don's opinions would lead
+him to blow up the house; because the Oxford don is an English type.
+Suppose somebody said, 'Do let me bring old Colonel Robinson down for
+the week-end; he's a bit of a crank but quite interesting.' We should
+not anticipate the colonel running amuck with a carving-knife and
+offering up human sacrifice in the garden; for these are not among the
+daily habits of an old English colonel; and because we know his habits,
+we do not care about his opinions. But suppose somebody offered to bring
+a person from the interior of Kamskatka to stay with us for a week or
+two, and added that his religion was a very extraordinary religion, we
+should feel a little more inquisitive about what kind of religion it
+was. If somebody wished to add a Hairy Ainu to the family party at
+Christmas, explaining that his point of view was so individual and
+interesting, we should want to know a little more about it and him. We
+should be tempted to draw up as fantastic an examination paper as that
+presented to the emigrant going to America. We should ask what a Hairy
+Ainu was, and how hairy he was, and above all what sort of Ainu he was.
+Would etiquette require us to ask him to bring his wife? And if we did
+ask him to bring his wife, how many wives would he bring? In short, as
+in the American formula, is he a polygamist? Merely as a point of
+housekeeping and accommodation the question is not irrelevant. Is the
+Hairy Ainu content with hair, or does he wear any clothes? If the police
+insist on his wearing clothes, will he recognise the authority of the
+police? In short, as in the American formula, is he an anarchist?
+
+Of course this generalisation about America, like other historical
+things, is subject to all sorts of cross divisions and exceptions, to
+be considered in their place. The negroes are a special problem, because
+of what white men in the past did to them. The Japanese are a special
+problem, because of what men fear that they in the future may do to
+white men. The Jews are a special problem, because of what they and the
+Gentiles, in the past, present, and future, seem to have the habit of
+doing to each other. But the point is not that nothing exists in America
+except this idea; it is that nothing like this idea exists anywhere
+except in America. This idea is not internationalism; on the contrary it
+is decidedly nationalism. The Americans are very patriotic, and wish to
+make their new citizens patriotic Americans. But it is the idea of
+making a new nation literally out of any old nation that comes along. In
+a word, what is unique is not America but what is called
+Americanisation. We understand nothing till we understand the amazing
+ambition to Americanise the Kamskatkan and the Hairy Ainu. We are not
+trying to Anglicise thousands of French cooks or Italian organ-grinders.
+France is not trying to Gallicise thousands of English trippers or
+German prisoners of war. America is the one place in the world where
+this process, healthy or unhealthy, possible or impossible, is going on.
+And the process, as I have pointed out, is _not_ internationalisation.
+It would be truer to say it is the nationalisation of the
+internationalised. It is making a home out of vagabonds and a nation out
+of exiles. This is what at once illuminates and softens the moral
+regulations which we may really think faddist or fanatical. They are
+abnormal; but in one sense this experiment of a home for the homeless is
+abnormal. In short, it has long been recognised that America was an
+asylum. It is only since Prohibition that it has looked a little like a
+lunatic asylum.
+
+It was before sailing for America, as I have said, that I stood with the
+official paper in my hand and these thoughts in my head. It was while I
+stood on English soil that I passed through the two stages of smiling
+and then sympathising; of realising that my momentary amusement, at
+being asked if I were not an Anarchist, was partly due to the fact that
+I was not an American. And in truth I think there are some things a man
+ought to know about America before he sees it. What we know of a country
+beforehand may not affect what we see that it is; but it will vitally
+affect what we appreciate it for being, because it will vitally affect
+what we expect it to be. I can honestly say that I had never expected
+America to be what nine-tenths of the newspaper critics invariably
+assume it to be. I never thought it was a sort of Anglo-Saxon colony,
+knowing that it was more and more thronged with crowds of very different
+colonists. During the war I felt that the very worst propaganda for the
+Allies was the propaganda for the Anglo-Saxons. I tried to point out
+that in one way America is nearer to Europe than England is. If she is
+not nearer to Bulgaria, she is nearer to Bulgars; if she is not nearer
+to Bohemia, she is nearer to Bohemians. In my New York hotel the head
+waiter in the dining-room was a Bohemian; the head waiter in the
+grill-room was a Bulgar. Americans have nationalities at the end of the
+street which for us are at the ends of the earth. I did my best to
+persuade my countrymen not to appeal to the American as if he were a
+rather dowdy Englishman, who had been rusticating in the provinces and
+had not heard the latest news about the town. I shall record later some
+of those arresting realities which the traveller does not expect; and
+which, in some cases I fear, he actually does not see because he does
+not expect. I shall try to do justice to the psychology of what Mr.
+Belloc has called 'Eye-Openers in Travel.' But there are some things
+about America that a man ought to see even with his eyes shut. One is
+that a state that came into existence solely through its repudiation and
+abhorrence of the British Crown is not likely to be a respectful copy of
+the British Constitution. Another is that the chief mark of the
+Declaration of Independence is something that is not only absent from
+the British Constitution, but something which all our constitutionalists
+have invariably thanked God, with the jolliest boasting and bragging,
+that they had kept out of the British Constitution. It is the thing
+called abstraction or academic logic. It is the thing which such jolly
+people call theory; and which those who can practise it call thought.
+And the theory or thought is the very last to which English people are
+accustomed, either by their social structure or their traditional
+teaching. It is the theory of equality. It is the pure classic
+conception that no man must aspire to be anything more than a citizen,
+and that no man should endure to be anything less. It is by no means
+especially intelligible to an Englishman, who tends at his best to the
+virtues of the gentleman and at his worst to the vices of the snob. The
+idealism of England, or if you will the romance of England, has not been
+primarily the romance of the citizen. But the idealism of America, we
+may safely say, still revolves entirely round the citizen and his
+romance. The realities are quite another matter, and we shall consider
+in its place the question of whether the ideal will be able to shape
+the realities or will merely be beaten shapeless by them. The ideal is
+besieged by inequalities of the most towering and insane description in
+the industrial and economic field. It may be devoured by modern
+capitalism, perhaps the worst inequality that ever existed among men. Of
+all that we shall speak later. But citizenship is still the American
+ideal; there is an army of actualities opposed to that ideal; but there
+is no ideal opposed to that ideal. American plutocracy has never got
+itself respected like English aristocracy. Citizenship is the American
+ideal; and it has never been the English ideal. But it is surely an
+ideal that may stir some imaginative generosity and respect in an
+Englishman, if he will condescend to be also a man. In this vision of
+moulding many peoples into the visible image of the citizen, he may see
+a spiritual adventure which he can admire from the outside, at least as
+much as he admires the valour of the Moslems and much more than he
+admires the virtues of the Middle Ages. He need not set himself to
+develop equality, but he need not set himself to misunderstand it. He
+may at least understand what Jefferson and Lincoln meant, and he may
+possibly find some assistance in this task by reading what they said. He
+may realise that equality is not some crude fairy tale about all men
+being equally tall or equally tricky; which we not only cannot believe
+but cannot believe in anybody believing. It is an absolute of morals by
+which all men have a value invariable and indestructible and a dignity
+as intangible as death. He may at least be a philosopher and see that
+equality is an idea; and not merely one of these soft-headed sceptics
+who, having risen by low tricks to high places, drink bad champagne in
+tawdry hotel lounges, and tell each other twenty times over, with
+unwearied iteration, that equality is an illusion.
+
+In truth it is inequality that is the illusion. The extreme
+disproportion between men, that we seem to see in life, is a thing of
+changing lights and lengthening shadows, a twilight full of fancies and
+distortions. We find a man famous and cannot live long enough to find
+him forgotten; we see a race dominant and cannot linger to see it decay.
+It is the experience of men that always returns to the equality of men;
+it is the average that ultimately justifies the average man. It is when
+men have seen and suffered much and come at the end of more elaborate
+experiments, that they see men as men under an equal light of death and
+daily laughter; and none the less mysterious for being many. Nor is it
+in vain that these Western democrats have sought the blazonry of their
+flag in that great multitude of immortal lights that endure behind the
+fires we see, and gathered them into the corner of Old Glory whose
+ground is like the glittering night. For veritably, in the spirit as
+well as in the symbol, suns and moons and meteors pass and fill our
+skies with a fleeting and almost theatrical conflagration; and wherever
+the old shadow stoops upon the earth, the stars return.
+
+
+
+
+_A Meditation in a New York Hotel_
+
+
+All this must begin with an apology and not an apologia. When I went
+wandering about the States disguised as a lecturer, I was well aware
+that I was not sufficiently well disguised to be a spy. I was even in
+the worst possible position to be a sight-seer. A lecturer to American
+audiences can hardly be in the holiday mood of a sight-seer. It is
+rather the audience that is sight-seeing; even if it is seeing a rather
+melancholy sight. Some say that people come to see the lecturer and not
+to hear him; in which case it seems rather a pity that he should disturb
+and distress their minds with a lecture. He might merely display himself
+on a stand or platform for a stipulated sum; or be exhibited like a
+monster in a menagerie. The circus elephant is not expected to make a
+speech. But it is equally true that the circus elephant is not allowed
+to write a book. His impressions of travel would be somewhat sketchy and
+perhaps a little over-specialised. In merely travelling from circus to
+circus he would, so to speak, move in rather narrow circles. Jumbo the
+great elephant (with whom I am hardly so ambitious as to compare
+myself), before he eventually went to the Barnum show, passed a
+considerable and I trust happy part of his life in Regent's Park. But if
+he had written a book on England, founded on his impressions of the Zoo,
+it might have been a little disproportionate and even misleading in its
+version of the flora and fauna of that country. He might imagine that
+lions and leopards were commoner than they are in our hedgerows and
+country lanes, or that the head and neck of a giraffe was as native to
+our landscapes as a village spire. And that is why I apologise in
+anticipation for a probable lack of proportion in this work. Like the
+elephant, I may have seen too much of a special enclosure where a
+special sort of lions are gathered together. I may exaggerate the
+territorial, as distinct from the vertical space occupied by the
+spiritual giraffe; for the giraffe may surely be regarded as an example
+of Uplift, and is even, in a manner of speaking, a high-brow. Above all,
+I shall probably make generalisations that are much too general; and are
+insufficient through being exaggerative. To this sort of doubt all my
+impressions are subject; and among them the negative generalisation with
+which I shall begin this rambling meditation on American hotels.
+
+In all my American wanderings I never saw such a thing as an inn. They
+may exist; but they do not arrest the traveller upon every road as they
+do in England and in Europe. The saloons no longer existed when I was
+there, owing to the recent reform which restricted intoxicants to the
+wealthier classes. But we feel that the saloons have been there; if one
+may so express it, their absence is still present. They remain in the
+structure of the street and the idiom of the language. But the saloons
+were not inns. If they had been inns, it would have been far harder even
+for the power of modern plutocracy to root them out. There will be a
+very different chase when the White Hart is hunted to the forests or
+when the Red Lion turns to bay. But people could not feel about the
+American saloon as they will feel about the English inns. They could not
+feel that the Prohibitionist, that vulgar chucker-out, was chucking
+Chaucer out of the Tabard and Shakespeare out of the Mermaid. In justice
+to the American Prohibitionists it must be realised that they were not
+doing quite such desecration; and that many of them felt the saloon a
+specially poisonous sort of place. They did feel that drinking-places
+were used only as drug-shops. So they have effected the great
+reconstruction, by which it will be necessary to use only drug-shops as
+drinking-places. But I am not dealing here with the problem of
+Prohibition except in so far as it is involved in the statement that the
+saloons were in no sense inns. Secondly, of course, there are the
+hotels. There are indeed. There are hotels toppling to the stars, hotels
+covering the acreage of villages, hotels in multitudinous number like a
+mob of Babylonian or Assyrian monuments; but the hotels also are not
+inns.
+
+Broadly speaking, there is only one hotel in America. The pattern of it,
+which is a very rational pattern, is repeated in cities as remote from
+each other as the capitals of European empires. You may find that hotel
+rising among the red blooms of the warm spring woods of Nebraska, or
+whitened with Canadian snows near the eternal noise of Niagara. And
+before touching on this solid and simple pattern itself, I may remark
+that the same system of symmetry runs through all the details of the
+interior. As one hotel is like another hotel, so one hotel floor is like
+another hotel floor. If the passage outside your bedroom door, or
+hallway as it is called, contains, let us say, a small table with a
+green vase and a stuffed flamingo, or some trifle of the sort, you may
+be perfectly certain that there is exactly the same table, vase, and
+flamingo on every one of the thirty-two landings of that towering
+habitation. This is where it differs most perhaps from the crooked
+landings and unexpected levels of the old English inns, even when they
+call themselves hotels. To me there was something weird, like a magic
+multiplication, in the exquisite sameness of these suites. It seemed to
+suggest the still atmosphere of some eerie psychological story. I once
+myself entertained the notion of a story, in which a man was to be
+prevented from entering his house (the scene of some crime or calamity)
+by people who painted and furnished the next house to look exactly like
+it; the assimilation going to the most fantastic lengths, such as
+altering the numbering of houses in the street. I came to America and
+found an hotel fitted and upholstered throughout for the enactment of my
+phantasmal fraud. I offer the skeleton of my story with all humility to
+some of the admirable lady writers of detective stories in America, to
+Miss Carolyn Wells, or Miss Mary Roberts Rhinehart, or Mrs. A. K. Green
+of the unforgotten Leavenworth Case. Surely it might be possible for the
+unsophisticated Nimrod K. Moose, of Yellow Dog Flat, to come to New York
+and be entangled somehow in this net of repetitions or recurrences.
+Surely something tells me that his beautiful daughter, the Rose of Red
+Murder Gulch, might seek for him in vain amid the apparently
+unmistakable surroundings of the thirty-second floor, while he was being
+quietly butchered by the floor-clerk on the thirty-third floor, an agent
+of the Green Claw (that formidable organisation); and all because the
+two floors looked exactly alike to the virginal Western eye. The
+original point of my own story was that the man to be entrapped walked
+into his own house after all, in spite of it being differently painted
+and numbered, simply because he was absent-minded and used to taking a
+certain number of mechanical steps. This would not work in the hotel;
+because a lift has no habits. It is typical of the real tameness of
+machinery, that even when we talk of a man turning mechanically we only
+talk metaphorically; for it is something that a mechanism cannot do. But
+I think there is only one real objection to my story of Mr. Moose in the
+New York hotel. And that is unfortunately a rather fatal one. It is that
+far away in the remote desolation of Yellow Dog, among those outlying
+and outlandish rocks that almost seem to rise beyond the sunset, there
+is undoubtedly an hotel of exactly the same sort, with all its floors
+exactly the same.
+
+Anyhow the general plan of the American hotel is commonly the same, and,
+as I have said, it is a very sound one so far as it goes. When I first
+went into one of the big New York hotels, the first impression was
+certainly its bigness. It was called the Biltmore; and I wondered how
+many national humorists had made the obvious comment of wishing they had
+built less. But it was not merely the Babylonian size and scale of such
+things, it was the way in which they are used. They are used almost as
+public streets, or rather as public squares. My first impression was
+that I was in some sort of high street or market-place during a carnival
+or a revolution. True, the people looked rather rich for a revolution
+and rather grave for a carnival; but they were congested in great crowds
+that moved slowly like people passing through an overcrowded railway
+station. Even in the dizzy heights of such a sky-scraper there could not
+possibly be room for all those people to sleep in the hotel, or even to
+dine in it. And, as a matter of fact, they did nothing whatever except
+drift into it and drift out again. Most of them had no more to do with
+the hotel than I have with Buckingham Palace. I have never been in
+Buckingham Palace, and I have very seldom, thank God, been in the big
+hotels of this type that exist in London or Paris. But I cannot believe
+that mobs are perpetually pouring through the Hotel Cecil or the Savoy
+in this fashion, calmly coming in at one door and going out of the
+other. But this fact is part of the fundamental structure of the
+American hotel; it is built upon a compromise that makes it possible.
+The whole of the lower floor is thrown open to the public streets and
+treated as a public square. But above it and all round it runs another
+floor in the form of a sort of deep gallery, furnished more luxuriously
+and looking down on the moving mobs beneath. No one is allowed on this
+floor except the guests or clients of the hotel. As I have been one of
+them myself, I trust it is not unsympathetic to compare them to active
+anthropoids who can climb trees, and so look down in safety on the herds
+or packs of wilder animals wandering and prowling below. Of course there
+are modifications of this architectural plan, but they are generally
+approximations to it; it is the plan that seems to suit the social life
+of the American cities. There is generally something like a ground floor
+that is more public, a half-floor or gallery above that is more private,
+and above that the bulk of the block of bedrooms, the huge hive with its
+innumerable and identical cells.
+
+The ladder of ascent in this tower is of course the lift, or, as it is
+called, the elevator. With all that we hear of American hustle and
+hurry it is rather strange that Americans seem to like more than we do
+to linger upon long words. And indeed there is an element of delay in
+their diction and spirit, very little understood, which I may discuss
+elsewhere. Anyhow they say elevator when we say lift, just as they say
+automobile when we say motor and stenographer when we say typist, or
+sometimes (by a slight confusion) typewriter. Which reminds me of
+another story that never existed, about a man who was accused of having
+murdered and dismembered his secretary when he had only taken his typing
+machine to pieces; but we must not dwell on these digressions. The
+Americans may have another reason for giving long and ceremonious titles
+to the lift. When first I came among them I had a suspicion that they
+possessed and practised a new and secret religion, which was the cult of
+the elevator. I fancied they worshipped the lift, or at any rate
+worshipped in the lift. The details or data of this suspicion it were
+now vain to collect, as I have regretfully abandoned it, except in so
+far as they illustrate the social principles underlying the structural
+plan of the building. Now an American gentleman invariably takes off his
+hat in the lift. He does not take off his hat in the hotel, even if it
+is crowded with ladies. But he always so salutes a lady in the elevator;
+and this marks the difference of atmosphere. The lift is a room, but the
+hotel is a street. But during my first delusion, of course, I assumed
+that he uncovered in this tiny temple merely because he was in church.
+There is something about the very word elevator that expresses a great
+deal of his vague but idealistic religion. Perhaps that flying chapel
+will eventually be ritualistically decorated like a chapel; possibly
+with a symbolic scheme of wings. Perhaps a brief religious service will
+be held in the elevator as it ascends; in a few well-chosen words
+touching the Utmost for the Highest. Possibly he would consent even to
+call the elevator a lift, if he could call it an uplift. There would be
+no difficulty, except what I cannot but regard as the chief moral
+problem of all optimistic modernism. I mean the difficulty of imagining
+a lift which is free to go up, if it is not also free to go down.
+
+I think I know my American friends and acquaintances too well to
+apologise for any levity in these illustrations. Americans make fun of
+their own institutions; and their own journalism is full of such
+fanciful conjectures. The tall building is itself artistically akin to
+the tall story. The very word sky-scraper is an admirable example of an
+American lie. But I can testify quite as eagerly to the solid and
+sensible advantages of the symmetrical hotel. It is not only a pattern
+of vases and stuffed flamingoes; it is also an equally accurate pattern
+of cupboards and baths. It is a dignified and humane custom to have a
+bathroom attached to every bedroom; and my impulse to sing the praises
+of it brought me once at least into a rather quaint complication. I
+think it was in the city of Dayton; anyhow I remember there was a
+Laundry Convention going on in the same hotel, in a room very
+patriotically and properly festooned with the stars and stripes, and
+doubtless full of promise for the future of laundering. I was
+interviewed on the roof, within earshot of this debate, and may have
+been the victim of some association or confusion; anyhow, after
+answering the usual questions about Labour, the League of Nations, the
+length of ladies' dresses, and other great matters, I took refuge in a
+rhapsody of warm and well-deserved praise of American bathrooms. The
+editor, I understand, running a gloomy eye down the column of his
+contributor's 'story,' and seeing nothing but metaphysical terms such as
+justice, freedom, the abstract disapproval of sweating, swindling, and
+the like, paused at last upon the ablutionary allusion, and his eye
+brightened. 'That's the only copy in the whole thing,' he said, 'A
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' So these words appeared in enormous letters
+above my portrait in the paper. It will be noted that, like many things
+that practical men make a great point of, they miss the point. What I
+had commended as new and national was a bathroom in every bedroom. Even
+feudal and moss-grown England is not entirely ignorant of an occasional
+bath-tub in the home. But what gave me great joy was what followed. I
+discovered with delight that many people, glancing rapidly at my
+portrait with its prodigious legend, imagined that it was a commercial
+advertisement, and that I was a very self-advertising commercial
+traveller. When I walked about the streets, I was supposed to be
+travelling in bath-tubs. Consider the caption of the portrait, and you
+will see how similar it is to the true commercial slogan: 'We offer a
+Bath-Tub in Every Home.' And this charming error was doubtless clinched
+by the fact that I had been found haunting the outer courts of the
+temple of the ancient Guild of Lavenders. I never knew how many shared
+the impression; I regret to say that I only traced it with certainty in
+two individuals. But I understand that it included the idea that I had
+come to the town to attend the Laundry Convention, and had made an
+eloquent speech to that senate, no doubt exhibiting my tubs.
+
+Such was the penalty of too passionate and unrestrained an admiration
+for American bathrooms; yet the connection of ideas, however
+inconsequent, does cover the part of social practice for which these
+American institutions can really be praised. About everything like
+laundry or hot and cold water there is not only organisation, but what
+does not always or perhaps often go with it, efficiency. Americans are
+particular about these things of dress and decorum; and it is a virtue
+which I very seriously recognise, though I find it very hard to emulate.
+But with them it is a virtue; it is not a mere convention, still less a
+mere fashion. It is really related to human dignity rather than to
+social superiority. The really glorious thing about the American is that
+he does not dress like a gentleman; he dresses like a citizen or a
+civilised man. His Puritanic particularity on certain points is really
+detachable from any definite social ambitions; these things are not a
+part of getting into society but merely of keeping out of savagery.
+Those millions and millions of middling people, that huge middle class
+especially of the Middle West, are not near enough to any aristocracy
+even to be sham aristocrats, or to be real snobs. But their standards
+are secure; and though I do not really travel in a bath-tub, or believe
+in the bath-tub philosophy and religion, I will not on this matter
+recoil misanthropically from them: I prefer the tub of Dayton to the tub
+of Diogenes. On these points there is really something a million times
+better than efficiency, and that is something like equality.
+
+In short, the American hotel is not America; but it is American. In some
+respects it is as American as the English inn is English. And it is
+symbolic of that society in this among other things: that it does tend
+too much to uniformity; but that that very uniformity disguises not a
+little natural dignity. The old Romans boasted that their republic was a
+nation of kings. If we really walked abroad in such a kingdom, we might
+very well grow tired of the sight of a crowd of kings, of every man with
+a gold crown on his head or an ivory sceptre in his hand. But it is
+arguable that we ought not to grow tired of the repetition of crowns and
+sceptres, any more than of the repetition of flowers and stars. The
+whole imaginative effort of Walt Whitman was really an effort to absorb
+and animate these multitudinous modern repetitions; and Walt Whitman
+would be quite capable of including in his lyric litany of optimism a
+list of the nine hundred and ninety-nine identical bathrooms. I do not
+sneer at the generous effort of the giant; though I think, when all is
+said, that it is a criticism of modern machinery that the effort should
+be gigantic as well as generous.
+
+While there is so much repetition there is little repose. It is the
+pattern of a kaleidoscope rather than a wall-paper; a pattern of figures
+running and even leaping like the figures in a zoetrope. But even in the
+groups where there was no hustle there was often something of
+homelessness. I do not mean merely that they were not dining at home;
+but rather that they were not at home even when dining, and dining at
+their favourite hotel. They would frequently start up and dart from the
+room at a summons from the telephone. It may have been fanciful, but I
+could not help feeling a breath of home, as from a flap or flutter of
+St. George's Cross, when I first sat down in a Canadian hostelry, and
+read the announcement that no such telephonic or other summonses were
+allowed in the dining-room. It may have been a coincidence, and there
+may be American hotels with this merciful proviso and Canadian hotels
+without it; but the thing was symbolic even if it was not evidential. I
+felt as if I stood indeed upon English soil, in a place where people
+liked to have their meals in peace.
+
+The process of the summons is called 'paging,' and consists of sending a
+little boy with a large voice through all the halls and corridors of the
+building, making them resound with a name. The custom is common, of
+course, in clubs and hotels even in England; but in England it is a mere
+whisper compared with the wail with which the American page repeats the
+formula of 'Calling Mr. So and So.' I remember a particularly crowded
+_parterre_ in the somewhat smoky and oppressive atmosphere of Pittsburg,
+through which wandered a youth with a voice the like of which I have
+never heard in the land of the living, a voice like the cry of a lost
+spirit, saying again and again for ever, 'Carling Mr. Anderson.' One
+felt that he never would find Mr. Anderson. Perhaps there never had been
+any Mr. Anderson to be found. Perhaps he and every one else wandered in
+an abyss of bottomless scepticism; and he was but the victim of one out
+of numberless nightmares of eternity, as he wandered a shadow with
+shadows and wailed by impassable streams. This is not exactly my
+philosophy, but I feel sure it was his. And it is a mood that may
+frequently visit the mind in the centres of highly active and successful
+industrial civilisation.
+
+Such are the first idle impressions of the great American hotel, gained
+by sitting for the first time in its gallery and gazing on its drifting
+crowds with thoughts equally drifting. The first impression is of
+something enormous and rather unnatural, an impression that is gradually
+tempered by experience of the kindliness and even the tameness of so
+much of that social order. But I should not be recording the sensations
+with sincerity, if I did not touch in passing the note of something
+unearthly about that vast system to an insular traveller who sees it for
+the first time. It is as if he were wandering in another world among the
+fixed stars; or worse still, in an ideal Utopia of the future.
+
+Yet I am not certain; and perhaps the best of all news is that nothing
+is really new. I sometimes have a fancy that many of these new things in
+new countries are but the resurrections of old things which have been
+wickedly killed or stupidly stunted in old countries. I have looked over
+the sea of little tables in some light and airy open-air cafe; and my
+thoughts have gone back to the plain wooden bench and wooden table that
+stands solitary and weather-stained outside so many neglected English
+inns. We talk of experimenting in the French cafe, as of some fresh and
+almost impudent innovation. But our fathers had the French cafe, in the
+sense of the free-and-easy table in the sun and air. The only difference
+was that French democracy was allowed to develop its cafe, or multiply
+its tables, while English plutocracy prevented any such popular growth.
+Perhaps there are other examples of old types and patterns, lost in the
+old oligarchy and saved in the new democracies. I am haunted with a hint
+that the new structures are not so very new; and that they remind me of
+something very old. As I look from the balcony floor the crowds seem to
+float away and the colours to soften and grow pale, and I know I am in
+one of the simplest and most ancestral of human habitations. I am
+looking down from the old wooden gallery upon the courtyard of an inn.
+This new architectural model, which I have described, is after all one
+of the oldest European models, now neglected in Europe and especially in
+England. It was the theatre in which were enacted innumerable picaresque
+comedies and romantic plays, with figures ranging from Sancho Panza to
+Sam Weller. It served as the apparatus, like some gigantic toy set up in
+bricks and timber, for the ancient and perhaps eternal game of tennis.
+The very terms of the original game were taken from the inn courtyard,
+and the players scored accordingly as they hit the buttery-hatch or the
+roof. Singular speculations hover in my mind as the scene darkens and
+the quadrangle below begins to empty in the last hours of night. Some
+day perhaps this huge structure will be found standing in a solitude
+like a skeleton; and it will be the skeleton of the Spotted Dog or the
+Blue Boar. It will wither and decay until it is worthy at last to be a
+tavern. I do not know whether men will play tennis on its ground floor,
+with various scores and prizes for hitting the electric fan, or the
+lift, or the head waiter. Perhaps the very words will only remain as
+part of some such rustic game. Perhaps the electric fan will no longer
+be electric and the elevator will no longer elevate, and the waiter will
+only wait to be hit. But at least it is only by the decay of modern
+plutocracy, which seems already to have begun, that the secret of the
+structure even of this plutocratic palace can stand revealed. And after
+long years, when its lights are extinguished and only the long shadows
+inhabit its halls and vestibules, there may come a new noise like
+thunder; of D'Artagnan knocking at the door.
+
+
+
+
+_A Meditation in Broadway_
+
+
+When I had looked at the lights of Broadway by night, I made to my
+American friends an innocent remark that seemed for some reason to amuse
+them. I had looked, not without joy, at that long kaleidoscope of
+coloured lights arranged in large letters and sprawling trade-marks,
+advertising everything, from pork to pianos, through the agency of the
+two most vivid and most mystical of the gifts of God; colour and fire. I
+said to them, in my simplicity, 'What a glorious garden of wonders this
+would be, to any one who was lucky enough to be unable to read.'
+
+Here it is but a text for a further suggestion. But let us suppose that
+there does walk down this flaming avenue a peasant, of the sort called
+scornfully an illiterate peasant; by those who think that insisting on
+people reading and writing is the best way to keep out the spies who
+read in all languages and the forgers who write in all hands. On this
+principle indeed, a peasant merely acquainted with things of little
+practical use to mankind, such as ploughing, cutting wood, or growing
+vegetables, would very probably be excluded; and it is not for us to
+criticise from the outside the philosophy of those who would keep out
+the farmer and let in the forger. But let us suppose, if only for the
+sake of argument, that the peasant is walking under the artificial suns
+and stars of this tremendous thoroughfare; that he has escaped to the
+land of liberty upon some general rumour and romance of the story of
+its liberation, but without being yet able to understand the arbitrary
+signs of its alphabet. The soul of such a man would surely soar higher
+than the sky-scrapers, and embrace a brotherhood broader than Broadway.
+Realising that he had arrived on an evening of exceptional festivity,
+worthy to be blazoned with all this burning heraldry, he would please
+himself by guessing what great proclamation or principle of the Republic
+hung in the sky like a constellation or rippled across the street like a
+comet. He would be shrewd enough to guess that the three festoons
+fringed with fiery words of somewhat similar pattern stood for
+'Government of the People, For the People, By the People'; for it must
+obviously be that, unless it were 'Liberty, Equality, Fraternity.' His
+shrewdness would perhaps be a little shaken if he knew that the triad
+stood for 'Tang Tonic To-day; Tang Tonic To-morrow; Tang Tonic All the
+Time.' He will soon identify a restless ribbon of red lettering, red hot
+and rebellious, as the saying, 'Give me liberty or give me death.' He
+will fail to identify it as the equally famous saying, 'Skyoline Has
+Gout Beaten to a Frazzle.' Therefore it was that I desired the peasant
+to walk down that grove of fiery trees, under all that golden foliage,
+and fruits like monstrous jewels, as innocent as Adam before the Fall.
+He would see sights almost as fine as the flaming sword or the purple
+and peacock plumage of the seraphim; so long as he did not go near the
+Tree of Knowledge.
+
+In other words, if once he went to school it would be all up; and indeed
+I fear in any case he would soon discover his error. If he stood wildly
+waving his hat for liberty in the middle of the road as Chunk Chutney
+picked itself out in ruby stars upon the sky, he would impede the
+excellent but extremely rigid traffic system of New York. If he fell on
+his knees before a sapphire splendour, and began saying an Ave Maria
+under a mistaken association, he would be conducted kindly but firmly by
+an Irish policeman to a more authentic shrine. But though the foreign
+simplicity might not long survive in New York, it is quite a mistake to
+suppose that such foreign simplicity cannot enter New York. He may be
+excluded for being illiterate, but he cannot be excluded for being
+ignorant, nor for being innocent. Least of all can he be excluded for
+being wiser in his innocence than the world in its knowledge. There is
+here indeed more than one distinction to be made. New York is a
+cosmopolitan city; but it is not a city of cosmopolitans. Most of the
+masses in New York have a nation, whether or no it be the nation to
+which New York belongs. Those who are Americanised are American, and
+very patriotically American. Those who are not thus nationalised are not
+in the least internationalised. They simply continue to be themselves;
+the Irish are Irish; the Jews are Jewish; and all sorts of other tribes
+carry on the traditions of remote European valleys almost untouched. In
+short, there is a sort of slender bridge between their old country and
+their new, which they either cross or do not cross, but which they
+seldom simply occupy. They are exiles or they are citizens; there is no
+moment when they are cosmopolitans. But very often the exiles bring with
+them not only rooted traditions, but rooted truths.
+
+Indeed it is to a great extent the thought of these strange souls in
+crude American garb that gives a meaning to the masquerade of New York.
+In the hotel where I stayed the head waiter in one room was a Bohemian;
+and I am glad to say that he called himself a Bohemian. I have already
+protested sufficiently, before American audiences, against the pedantry
+of perpetually talking about Czecho-Slovakia. I suggested to my American
+friends that the abandonment of the word Bohemian in its historical
+sense might well extend to its literary and figurative sense. We might
+be expected to say, 'I'm afraid Henry has got into very Czecho-Slovakian
+habits lately,' or 'Don't bother to dress; it's quite a Czecho-Slovakian
+affair.' Anyhow my Bohemian would have nothing to do with such nonsense;
+he called himself a son of Bohemia, and spoke as such in his criticisms
+of America, which were both favourable and unfavourable. He was a squat
+man, with a sturdy figure and a steady smile; and his eyes were like
+dark pools in the depth of a darker forest, but I do not think he had
+ever been deceived by the lights of Broadway.
+
+But I found something like my real innocent abroad, my real peasant
+among the sky-signs, in another part of the same establishment. He was a
+much leaner man, equally dark, with a hook nose, hungry face, and fierce
+black moustaches. He also was a waiter, and was in the costume of a
+waiter, which is a smarter edition of the costume of a lecturer. As he
+was serving me with clam chowder or some such thing, I fell into speech
+with him and he told me he was a Bulgar. I said something like, 'I'm
+afraid I don't know as much as I ought to about Bulgaria. I suppose most
+of your people are agricultural, aren't they?' He did not stir an inch
+from his regular attitude, but he slightly lowered his low voice and
+said, 'Yes. From the earth we come and to the earth we return; when
+people get away from that they are lost.'
+
+To hear such a thing said by the waiter was alone an epoch in the life
+of an unfortunate writer of fantastic novels. To see him clear away the
+clam chowder like an automaton, and bring me more iced water like an
+automaton or like nothing on earth except an American waiter (for piling
+up ice is the cold passion of their lives), and all this after having
+uttered something so dark and deep, so starkly incongruous and so
+startlingly true, was an indescribable thing, but very like the picture
+of the peasant admiring Broadway. So he passed, with his artificial
+clothes and manners, lit up with all the ghastly artificial light of the
+hotel, and all the ghastly artificial life of the city; and his heart
+was like his own remote and rocky valley, where those unchanging words
+were carved as on a rock.
+
+I do not profess to discuss here at all adequately the question this
+raises about the Americanisation of the Bulgar. It has many aspects, of
+some of which most Englishmen and even some Americans are rather
+unconscious. For one thing, a man with so rugged a loyalty to land could
+not be Americanised in New York; but it is not so certain that he could
+not be Americanised in America. We might almost say that a peasantry is
+hidden in the heart of America. So far as our impressions go, it is a
+secret. It is rather an open secret; covering only some thousand square
+miles of open prairie. But for most of our countrymen it is something
+invisible, unimagined, and unvisited; the simple truth that where all
+those acres are there is agriculture, and where all that agriculture is
+there is considerable tendency towards distributive or decently
+equalised property, as in a peasantry. On the other hand, there are
+those who say that the Bulgar will never be Americanised, that he only
+comes to be a waiter in America that he may afford to return to be a
+peasant in Bulgaria. I cannot decide this issue, and indeed I did not
+introduce it to this end. I was led to it by a certain line of
+reflection that runs along the Great White Way, and I will continue to
+follow it. The criticism, if we could put it rightly, not only covers
+more than New York but more than the whole New World. Any argument
+against it is quite as valid against the largest and richest cities of
+the Old World, against London or Liverpool or Frankfort or Belfast. But
+it is in New York that we see the argument most clearly, because we see
+the thing thus towering into its own turrets and breaking into its own
+fireworks.
+
+I disagree with the aesthetic condemnation of the modern city with its
+sky-scrapers and sky-signs. I mean that which laments the loss of beauty
+and its sacrifice to utility. It seems to me the very reverse of the
+truth. Years ago, when people used to say the Salvation Army doubtless
+had good intentions, but we must all deplore its methods, I pointed out
+that the very contrary is the case. Its method, the method of drums and
+democratic appeal, is that of the Franciscans or any other march of the
+Church Militant. It was precisely its aims that were dubious, with their
+dissenting morality and despotic finance. It is somewhat the same with
+things like the sky-signs in Broadway. The aesthete must not ask me to
+mingle my tears with his, because these things are merely useful and
+ugly. For I am not specially inclined to think them ugly; but I am
+strongly inclined to think them useless. As a matter of art for art's
+sake, they seem to me rather artistic. As a form of practical social
+work they seem to me stark stupid waste. If Mr. Bilge is rich enough to
+build a tower four hundred feet high and give it a crown of golden
+crescents and crimson stars, in order to draw attention to his
+manufacture of the Paradise Tooth Paste or The Seventh Heaven Cigar, I
+do not feel the least disposition to thank him for any serious form of
+social service. I have never tried the Seventh Heaven Cigar; indeed a
+premonition moves me towards the belief that I shall go down to the dust
+without trying it. I have every reason to doubt whether it does any
+particular good to those who smoke it, or any good to anybody except
+those who sell it. In short Mr. Bilge's usefulness consists in being
+useful to Mr. Bilge, and all the rest is illusion and sentimentalism.
+But because I know that Bilge is only Bilge, shall I stoop to the
+profanity of saying that fire is only fire? Shall I blaspheme crimson
+stars any more than crimson sunsets, or deny that those moons are golden
+any more than that this grass is green? If a child saw these coloured
+lights, he would dance with as much delight as at any other coloured
+toys; and it is the duty of every poet, and even of every critic, to
+dance in respectful imitation of the child. Indeed I am in a mood of so
+much sympathy with the fairy lights of this pantomime city, that I
+should be almost sorry to see social sanity and a sense of proportion
+return to extinguish them. I fear the day is breaking, and the broad
+daylight of tradition and ancient truth is coming to end all this
+delightful nightmare of New York at night. Peasants and priests and all
+sorts of practical and sensible people are coming back into power, and
+their stern realism may wither all these beautiful, unsubstantial,
+useless things. They will not believe in the Seventh Heaven Cigar, even
+when they see it shining as with stars in the seventh heaven. They will
+not be affected by advertisements, any more than the priests and
+peasants of the Middle Ages would have been affected by advertisements.
+Only a very soft-headed, sentimental, and rather servile generation of
+men could possibly be affected by advertisements at all. People who are
+a little more hard-headed, humorous, and intellectually independent, see
+the rather simple joke; and are not impressed by this or any other form
+of self-praise. Almost any other men in almost any other age would have
+seen the joke. If you had said to a man in the Stone Age, 'Ugg says Ugg
+makes the best stone hatchets,' he would have perceived a lack of
+detachment and disinterestedness about the testimonial. If you had said
+to a medieval peasant, 'Robert the Bowyer proclaims, with three blasts
+of a horn, that he makes good bows,' the peasant would have said, 'Well,
+of course he does,' and thought about something more important. It is
+only among people whose minds have been weakened by a sort of mesmerism
+that so transparent a trick as that of advertisement could ever have
+been tried at all. And if ever we have again, as for other reasons I
+cannot but hope we shall, a more democratic distribution of property and
+a more agricultural basis of national life, it would seem at first sight
+only too likely that all this beautiful superstition will perish, and
+the fairyland of Broadway with all its varied rainbows fade away. For
+such people the Seventh Heaven Cigar, like the nineteenth-century city,
+will have ended in smoke. And even the smoke of it will have vanished.
+
+But the next stage of reflection brings us back to the peasant looking
+at the lights of Broadway. It is not true to say in the strict sense
+that the peasant has never seen such things before. The truth is that he
+has seen them on a much smaller scale, but for a much larger purpose.
+Peasants also have their ritual and ornament, but it is to adorn more
+real things. Apart from our first fancy about the peasant who could not
+read, there is no doubt about what would be apparent to a peasant who
+could read, and who could understand. For him also fire is sacred, for
+him also colour is symbolic. But where he sets up a candle to light the
+little shrine of St. Joseph, he finds it takes twelve hundred candles to
+light the Seventh Heaven Cigar. He is used to the colours in church
+windows showing red for martyrs or blue for madonnas; but here he can
+only conclude that all the colours of the rainbow belong to Mr. Bilge.
+Now upon the aesthetic side he might well be impressed; but it is
+exactly on the social and even scientific side that he has a right to
+criticise. If he were a Chinese peasant, for instance, and came from a
+land of fireworks, he would naturally suppose that he had happened to
+arrive at a great firework display in celebration of something; perhaps
+the Sacred Emperor's birthday, or rather birthnight. It would gradually
+dawn on the Chinese philosopher that the Emperor could hardly be born
+every night. And when he learnt the truth the philosopher, if he was a
+philosopher, would be a little disappointed ... possibly a little
+disdainful.
+
+Compare, for instance, these everlasting fireworks with the damp squibs
+and dying bonfires of Guy Fawkes Day. That quaint and even queer
+national festival has been fading for some time out of English life.
+Still, it was a national festival, in the double sense that it
+represented some sort of public spirit pursued by some sort of popular
+impulse. People spent money on the display of fireworks; they did not
+get money by it. And the people who spent money were often those who had
+very little money to spend. It had something of the glorious and
+fanatical character of making the poor poorer. It did not, like the
+advertisements, have only the mean and materialistic character of making
+the rich richer. In short, it came from the people and it appealed to
+the nation. The historical and religious cause in which it originated is
+not mine; and I think it has perished partly through being tied to a
+historical theory for which there is no future. I think this is
+illustrated in the very fact that the ceremonial is merely negative and
+destructive. Negation and destruction are very noble things as far as
+they go, and when they go in the right direction; and the popular
+expression of them has always something hearty and human about it. I
+shall not therefore bring any fine or fastidious criticism, whether
+literary or musical, to bear upon the little boys who drag about a
+bolster and a paper mask, calling out
+
+
+ Guy Fawkes Guy
+ Hit him in the eye.
+
+
+But I admit it is a disadvantage that they have not a saint or hero to
+crown in effigy as well as a traitor to burn in effigy. I admit that
+popular Protestantism has become too purely negative for people to
+wreathe in flowers the statue of Mr. Kensit or even of Dr. Clifford. I
+do not disguise my preference for popular Catholicism; which still has
+statues that can be wreathed in flowers. I wish our national feast of
+fireworks revolved round something positive and popular. I wish the
+beauty of a Catherine Wheel were displayed to the glory of St.
+Catherine. I should not especially complain if Roman candles were really
+Roman candles. But this negative character does not destroy the national
+character; which began at least in disinterested faith and has ended at
+least in disinterested fun. There is nothing disinterested at all about
+the new commercial fireworks. There is nothing so dignified as a dingy
+guy among the lights of Broadway. In that thoroughfare, indeed, the very
+word guy has another and milder significance. An American friend
+congratulated me on the impression I produced on a lady interviewer,
+observing, 'She says you're a regular guy.' This puzzled me a little at
+the time. 'Her description is no doubt correct,' I said, 'but I confess
+that it would never have struck me as specially complimentary.' But it
+appears that it is one of the most graceful of compliments, in the
+original American. A guy in America is a colourless term for a human
+being. All men are guys, being endowed by their Creator with certain ...
+but I am misled by another association. And a regular guy means, I
+presume, a reliable or respectable guy. The point here, however, is that
+the guy in the grotesque English sense does represent the dilapidated
+remnant of a real human tradition of symbolising real historic ideals by
+the sacramental mystery of fire. It is a great fall from the lowest of
+these lowly bonfires to the highest of the modern sky-signs. The new
+illumination does not stand for any national ideal at all; and what is
+yet more to the point, it does not come from any popular enthusiasm at
+all. That is where it differs from the narrowest national Protestantism
+of the English institution. Mobs have risen in support of No Popery; no
+mobs are likely to rise in defence of the New Puffery. Many a poor crazy
+Orangeman has died saying, 'To Hell with the Pope'; it is doubtful
+whether any man will ever, with his last breath, frame the ecstatic
+words, 'Try Hugby's Chewing Gum.' These modern and mercantile legends
+are imposed upon us by a mercantile minority, and we are merely passive
+to the suggestion. The hypnotist of high finance or big business merely
+writes his commands in heaven with a finger of fire. All men really are
+guys, in the sense of dummies. We are only the victims of his
+pyrotechnic violence; and it is he who hits us in the eye.
+
+This is the real case against that modern society that is symbolised by
+such art and architecture. It is not that it is toppling, but that it is
+top-heavy. It is not that it is vulgar, but rather that it is not
+popular. In other words, the democratic ideal of countries like America,
+while it is still generally sincere and sometimes intense, is at issue
+with another tendency, an industrial progress which is of all things on
+earth the most undemocratic. America is not alone in possessing the
+industrialism, but she is alone in emphasising the ideal that strives
+with industrialism. Industrial capitalism and ideal democracy are
+everywhere in controversy; but perhaps only here are they in conflict.
+France has a democratic ideal; but France is not industrial. England and
+Germany are industrial; but England and Germany are not really
+democratic. Of course when I speak here of industrialism I speak of
+great industrial areas; there is, as will be noted later, another side
+to all these countries; there is in America itself not only a great deal
+of agricultural society, but a great deal of agricultural equality;
+just as there are still peasants in Germany and may some day again be
+peasants in England. But the point is that the ideal and its enemy the
+reality are here crushed very close to each other in the high, narrow
+city; and that the sky-scraper is truly named because its top, towering
+in such insolence, is scraping the stars off the American sky, the very
+heaven of the American spirit.
+
+That seems to me the main outline of the whole problem. In the first
+chapter of this book, I have emphasised the fact that equality is still
+the ideal though no longer the reality of America. I should like to
+conclude this one by emphasising the fact that the reality of modern
+capitalism is menacing that ideal with terrors and even splendours that
+might well stagger the wavering and impressionable modern spirit. Upon
+the issue of that struggle depends the question of whether this new
+great civilisation continues to exist, and even whether any one cares if
+it exists or not. I have already used the parable of the American flag,
+and the stars that stand for a multitudinous equality; I might here take
+the opposite symbol of these artificial and terrestrial stars flaming on
+the forehead of the commercial city; and note the peril of the last
+illusion, which is that the artificial stars may seem to fill the
+heavens, and the real stars to have faded from sight. But I am content
+for the moment to reaffirm the merely imaginative pleasure of those
+dizzy turrets and dancing fires. If those nightmare buildings were
+really all built for nothing, how noble they would be! The fact that
+they were really built for something need not unduly depress us for a
+moment, or drag down our soaring fancies. There is something about these
+vertical lines that suggests a sort of rush upwards, as of great
+cataracts topsy-turvy. I have spoken of fireworks, but here I should
+rather speak of rockets. There is only something underneath the mind
+murmuring that nothing remains at last of a flaming rocket except a
+falling stick. I have spoken of Babylonian perspectives, and of words
+written with a fiery finger, like that huge unhuman finger that wrote on
+Belshazzar's wall.... But what did it write on Belshazzar's wall?... I
+am content once more to end on a note of doubt and a rather dark
+sympathy with those many-coloured solar systems turning so dizzily, far
+up in the divine vacuum of the night.
+
+'From the earth we come and to the earth we return; when people get away
+from that they are lost.'
+
+
+
+
+_Irish and other Interviewers_
+
+
+It is often asked what should be the first thing that a man sees when he
+lands in a foreign country; but I think it should be the vision of his
+own country. At least when I came into New York Harbour, a sort of grey
+and green cloud came between me and the towers with multitudinous
+windows, white in the winter sunlight; and I saw an old brown house
+standing back among the beech-trees at home, the house of only one among
+many friends and neighbours, but one somehow so sunken in the very heart
+of England as to be unconscious of her imperial or international
+position, and out of the sound of her perilous seas. But what made most
+clear the vision that revisited me was something else. Before we touched
+land the men of my own guild, the journalists and reporters, had already
+boarded the ship like pirates. And one of them spoke to me in an accent
+that I knew; and thanked me for all I had done for Ireland. And it was
+at that moment that I knew most vividly that what I wanted was to do
+something for England.
+
+Then, as it chanced, I looked across at the statue of Liberty, and saw
+that the great bronze was gleaming green in the morning light. I had
+made all the obvious jokes about the statue of Liberty. I found it had a
+soothing effect on earnest Prohibitionists on the boat to urge, as a
+point of dignity and delicacy, that it ought to be given back to the
+French, a vicious race abandoned to the culture of the vine. I proposed
+that the last liquors on board should be poured out in a pagan libation
+before it. And then I suddenly remembered that this Liberty was still in
+some sense enlightening the world, or one part of the world; was a lamp
+for one sort of wanderer, a star of one sort of seafarer. To one
+persecuted people at least this land had really been an asylum; even if
+recent legislation (as I have said) had made them think it a lunatic
+asylum. They had made it so much their home that the very colour of the
+country seemed to change with the infusion; as the bronze of the great
+statue took on a semblance of the wearing of the green.
+
+It is a commonplace that the Englishman has been stupid in his relations
+with the Irish; but he has been far more stupid in his relations with
+the Americans on the subject of the Irish. His propaganda has been worse
+than his practice; and his defence more ill-considered than the most
+indefensible things that it was intended to defend. There is in this
+matter a curious tangle of cross-purposes, which only a parallel example
+can make at all clear. And I will note the point here, because it is
+some testimony to its vivid importance that it was really the first I
+had to discuss on American soil with an American citizen. In a double
+sense I touched Ireland before I came to America. I will take an
+imaginary instance from another controversy; in order to show how the
+apology can be worse than the action. The best we can say for ourselves
+is worse than the worst that we can do.
+
+There was a time when English poets and other publicists could always be
+inspired with instantaneous indignation about the persecuted Jews in
+Russia. We have heard less about them since we heard more about the
+persecuting Jews in Russia. I fear there are a great many middle-class
+Englishmen already who wish that Trotsky had been persecuted a little
+more. But even in those days Englishmen divided their minds in a curious
+fashion; and unconsciously distinguished between the Jews whom they had
+never seen, in Warsaw, and the Jews whom they had often seen in
+Whitechapel. It seemed to be assumed that, by a curious coincidence,
+Russia possessed not only the very worst Anti-Semites but the very best
+Semites. A moneylender in London might be like Judas Iscariot; but a
+moneylender in Moscow must be like Judas Maccabaeus.
+
+Nevertheless there remained in our common sense an unconscious but
+fundamental comprehension of the unity of Israel; a sense that some
+things could be said, and some could not be said, about the Jews as a
+whole. Suppose that even in those days, to say nothing of these, an
+English protest against Russian Anti-Semitism had been answered by the
+Russian Anti-Semites, and suppose the answer had been somewhat as
+follows:--
+
+'It is all very well for foreigners to complain of our denying civic
+rights to our Jewish subjects; but we know the Jews better than they do.
+They are a barbarous people, entirely primitive, and very like the
+simple savages who cannot count beyond five on their fingers. It is
+quite impossible to make them understand ordinary numbers, to say
+nothing of simple economics. They do not realise the meaning or the
+value of money. No Jew anywhere in the world can get into his stupid
+head the notion of a bargain, or of exchanging one thing for another.
+Their hopeless incapacity for commerce or finance would retard the
+progress of our people, would prevent the spread of any sort of economic
+education, would keep the whole country on a level lower than that of
+the most prehistoric methods of barter. What Russia needs most is a
+mercantile middle class; and it is unjust to ask us to swamp its small
+beginnings in thousands of these rude tribesmen, who cannot do a sum of
+simple addition, or understand the symbolic character of a threepenny
+bit. We might as well be asked to give civic rights to cows and pigs as
+to this unhappy, half-witted race who can no more count than the beasts
+of the field. In every intellectual exercise they are hopelessly
+incompetent; no Jew can play chess; no Jew can learn languages; no Jew
+has ever appeared in the smallest part in any theatrical performance; no
+Jew can give or take any pleasure connected with any musical instrument.
+These people are our subjects; and we understand them. We accept full
+responsibility for treating such troglodytes on our own terms.'
+
+It would not be entirely convincing. It would sound a little far-fetched
+and unreal. But it would sound exactly like our utterances about the
+Irish, as they sound to all Americans, and rather especially to
+Anti-Irish Americans. That is exactly the impression we produce on the
+people of the United States when we say, as we do say in substance,
+something like this: 'We mean no harm to the poor dear Irish, so dreamy,
+so irresponsible, so incapable of order or organisation. If we were to
+withdraw from their country they would only fight among themselves; they
+have no notion of how to rule themselves. There is something charming
+about their unpracticability, about their very incapacity for the coarse
+business of politics. But for their own sakes it is impossible to leave
+these emotional visionaries to ruin themselves in the attempt to rule
+themselves. They are like children; but they are our own children, and
+we understand them. We accept full responsibility for acting as their
+parents and guardians.'
+
+Now the point is not only that this view of the Irish is false, but that
+it is the particular view that the Americans know to be false. While we
+are saying that the Irish could not organise, the Americans are
+complaining, often very bitterly, of the power of Irish organisation.
+While we say that the Irishman could not rule himself, the Americans are
+saying, more or less humorously, that the Irishman rules them. A highly
+intelligent professor said to me in Boston, 'We have solved the Irish
+problem here; we have an entirely independent Irish Government.' While
+we are complaining, in an almost passionate manner, of the impotence of
+mere cliques of idealists and dreamers, they are complaining, often in a
+very indignant manner, of the power of great gangs of bosses and
+bullies. There are a great many Americans who pity the Irish, very
+naturally and very rightly, for the historic martyrdom which their
+patriotism has endured. But there are a great many Americans who do not
+pity the Irish in the least. They would be much more likely to pity the
+English; only this particular way of talking tends rather to make them
+despise the English. Thus both the friends of Ireland and the foes of
+Ireland tend to be the foes of England. We make one set of enemies by
+our action, and another by our apology.
+
+It is a thing that can from time to time be found in history; a
+misunderstanding that really has a moral. The English excuse would carry
+much more weight if it had more sincerity and more humility. There are
+a considerable number of people in the United States who could
+sympathise with us, if we would say frankly that we fear the Irish.
+Those who thus despise our pity might possibly even respect our fear.
+The argument I have often used in other places comes back with
+prodigious and redoubled force, after hearing anything of American
+opinion; the argument that the only reasonable or reputable excuse for
+the English is the excuse of a patriotic sense of peril; and that the
+Unionist, if he must be a Unionist, should use that and no other. When
+the Unionist has said that he dare not let loose against himself a
+captive he has so cruelly wronged, he has said all that he has to say;
+all that he has ever had to say; all that he will ever have to say. He
+is like a man who has sent a virile and rather vindictive rival unjustly
+to penal servitude; and who connives at the continuance of the sentence,
+not because he himself is particularly vindictive, but because he is
+afraid of what the convict will do when he comes out of prison. This is
+not exactly a moral strength, but it is a very human weakness; and that
+is the most that can be said for it. All other talk, about Celtic frenzy
+or Catholic superstition, is cant invented to deceive himself or to
+deceive the world. But the vital point to realise is that it is cant
+that cannot possibly deceive the American world. In the matter of the
+Irishman the American is not to be deceived. It is not merely true to
+say that he knows better. It is equally true to say that he knows worse.
+He knows vices and evils in the Irishman that are entirely hidden in the
+hazy vision of the Englishman. He knows that our unreal slanders are
+inconsistent even with the real sins. To us Ireland is a shadowy Isle of
+Sunset, like Atlantis, about which we can make up legends. To him it is
+a positive ward or parish in the heart of his huge cities, like
+Whitechapel; about which even we cannot make legends but only lies. And,
+as I have said, there are some lies we do not tell even about
+Whitechapel. We do not say it is inhabited by Jews too stupid to count
+or know the value of a coin.
+
+The first thing for any honest Englishman to send across the sea is
+this; that the English have not the shadow of a notion of what they are
+up against in America. They have never even heard of the batteries of
+almost brutal energy, of which I had thus touched a live wire even
+before I landed. People talk about the hypocrisy of England in dealing
+with a small nationality. What strikes me is the stupidity of England in
+supposing that she is dealing with a small nationality; when she is
+really dealing with a very large nationality. She is dealing with a
+nationality that often threatens, even numerically, to dominate all the
+other nationalities of the United States. The Irish are not decaying;
+they are not unpractical; they are scarcely even scattered; they are not
+even poor. They are the most powerful and practical world-combination
+with whom we can decide to be friends or foes; and that is why I thought
+first of that still and solid brown house in Buckinghamshire, standing
+back in the shadow of the trees.
+
+Among my impressions of America I have deliberately put first the figure
+of the Irish-American interviewer, standing on the shore more symbolic
+than the statue of Liberty. The Irish interviewer's importance for the
+English lay in the fact of his being an Irishman, but there was also
+considerable interest in the circumstance of his being an interviewer.
+And as certain wild birds sometimes wing their way far out to sea and
+are the first signal of the shore, so the first Americans the traveller
+meets are often American interviewers; and they are generally birds of a
+feather, and they certainly flock together. In this respect, there is a
+slight difference in the etiquette of the craft in the two countries,
+which I was delighted to discuss with my fellow craftsmen. If I could at
+that moment have flown back to Fleet Street I am happy to reflect that
+nobody in the world would in the least wish to interview me. I should
+attract no more attention than the stone griffin opposite the Law
+Courts; both monsters being grotesque but also familiar. But supposing
+for the sake of argument that anybody did want to interview me, it is
+fairly certain that the fact of one paper publishing such an interview
+would rather prevent the other papers from doing so. The repetition of
+the same views of the same individual in two places would be considered
+rather bad journalism; it would have an air of stolen thunder, not to
+say stage thunder.
+
+But in America the fact of my landing and lecturing was evidently
+regarded in the same light as a murder or a great fire, or any other
+terrible but incurable catastrophe, a matter of interest to all pressmen
+concerned with practical events. One of the first questions I was asked
+was how I should be disposed to explain the wave of crime in New York.
+Naturally I replied that it might possibly be due to the number of
+English lecturers who had recently landed. In the mood of the moment it
+seemed possible that, if they had all been interviewed, regrettable
+incidents might possibly have taken place. But this was only the mood of
+the moment, and even as a mood did not last more than a moment. And
+since it has reference to a rather common and a rather unjust conception
+of American journalism, I think it well to take it first as a fallacy to
+be refuted, though the refutation may require a rather longer approach.
+
+I have generally found that the traveller fails to understand a foreign
+country, through treating it as a tendency and not as a balance. But if
+a thing were always tending in one direction it would soon tend to
+destruction. Everything that merely progresses finally perishes. Every
+nation, like every family, exists upon a compromise, and commonly a
+rather eccentric compromise; using the word 'eccentric' in the sense of
+something that is somehow at once crazy and healthy. Now the foreigner
+commonly sees some feature that he thinks fantastic without seeing the
+feature that balances it. The ordinary examples are obvious enough. An
+Englishman dining inside a hotel on the boulevards thinks the French
+eccentric in refusing to open a window. But he does not think the
+English eccentric in refusing to carry their chairs and tables out on to
+the pavement in Ludgate Circus. An Englishman will go poking about in
+little Swiss or Italian villages, in wild mountains or in remote
+islands, demanding tea; and never reflects that he is like a Chinaman
+who should enter all the wayside public-houses in Kent and Sussex and
+demand opium. But the point is not merely that he demands what he cannot
+expect to enjoy; it is that he ignores even what he does enjoy. He does
+not realise the sublime and starry paradox of the phrase, _vin
+ordinaire_, which to him should be a glorious jest like the phrase
+'common gold' or 'daily diamonds.' These are the simple and self-evident
+cases; but there are many more subtle cases of the same thing; of the
+tendency to see that the nation fills up its own gap with its own
+substitute; or corrects its own extravagance with its own precaution.
+The national antidote generally grows wild in the woods side by side
+with the national poison. If it did not, all the natives would be dead.
+For it is so, as I have said, that nations necessarily die of the
+undiluted poison called progress.
+
+It is so in this much-abused and over-abused example of the American
+journalist. The American interviewers really have exceedingly good
+manners for the purposes of their trade, granted that it is necessary to
+pursue their trade. And even what is called their hustling method can
+truly be said to cut both ways, or hustle both ways; for if they hustle
+in, they also hustle out. It may not at first sight seem the very
+warmest compliment to a gentleman to congratulate him on the fact that
+he soon goes away. But it really is a tribute to his perfection in a
+very delicate social art; and I am quite serious when I say that in this
+respect the interviewers are artists. It might be more difficult for an
+Englishman to come to the point, particularly the sort of point which
+American journalists are supposed, with some exaggeration, to aim at. It
+might be more difficult for an Englishman to ask a total stranger on the
+spur of the moment for the exact inscription on his mother's grave; but
+I really think that if an Englishman once got so far as that he would go
+very much farther, and certainly go on very much longer. The Englishman
+would approach the churchyard by a rather more wandering woodland path;
+but if once he had got to the grave I think he would have much more
+disposition, so to speak, to sit down on it. Our own national
+temperament would find it decidedly more difficult to disconnect when
+connections had really been established. Possibly that is the reason why
+our national temperament does not establish them. I suspect that the
+real reason that an Englishman does not talk is that he cannot leave off
+talking. I suspect that my solitary countrymen, hiding in separate
+railway compartments, are not so much retiring as a race of Trappists as
+escaping from a race of talkers.
+
+However this may be, there is obviously something of practical advantage
+in the ease with which the American butterfly flits from flower to
+flower. He may in a sense force his acquaintance on us, but he does not
+force himself on us. Even when, to our prejudices, he seems to insist on
+knowing us, at least he does not insist on our knowing him. It may be,
+to some sensibilities, a bad thing that a total stranger should talk as
+if he were a friend, but it might possibly be worse if he insisted on
+being a friend before he would talk like one. To a great deal of the
+interviewing, indeed much the greater part of it, even this criticism
+does not apply; there is nothing which even an Englishman of extreme
+sensibility could regard as particularly private; the questions involved
+are generally entirely public, and treated with not a little public
+spirit. But my only reason for saying here what can be said even for the
+worst exceptions is to point out this general and neglected principle;
+that the very thing that we complain of in a foreigner generally carries
+with it its own foreign cure. American interviewing is generally very
+reasonable, and it is always very rapid. And even those to whom talking
+to an intelligent fellow creature is as horrible as having a tooth out
+may still admit that American interviewing has many of the qualities of
+American dentistry.
+
+Another effect that has given rise to this fallacy, this exaggeration of
+the vulgarity and curiosity of the press, is the distinction between the
+articles and the headlines; or rather the tendency to ignore that
+distinction. The few really untrue and unscrupulous things I have seen
+in American 'stories' have always been in the headlines. And the
+headlines are written by somebody else; some solitary and savage cynic
+locked up in the office, hating all mankind, and raging and revenging
+himself at random, while the neat, polite, and rational pressman can
+safely be let loose to wander about the town.
+
+For instance, I talked to two decidedly thoughtful fellow journalists
+immediately on my arrival at a town in which there had been some labour
+troubles. I told them my general view of Labour in the very largest and
+perhaps the vaguest historical outline; pointing out that the one great
+truth to be taught to the middle classes was that Capitalism was itself
+a crisis, and a passing crisis; that it was not so much that it was
+breaking down as that it had never really stood up. Slaveries could
+last, and peasantries could last; but wage-earning communities could
+hardly even live, and were already dying.
+
+All this moral and even metaphysical generalisation was most fairly and
+most faithfully reproduced by the interviewer, who had actually heard it
+casually and idly spoken. But on the top of this column of political
+philosophy was the extraordinary announcement in enormous letters,
+'Chesterton Takes Sides in Trolley Strike.' This was inaccurate. When I
+spoke I not only did not know that there was any trolley strike, but I
+did not know what a trolley strike was. I should have had an indistinct
+idea that a large number of citizens earned their living by carrying
+things about in wheel-barrows, and that they had desisted from the
+beneficent activities. Any one who did not happen to be a journalist, or
+know a little about journalism, American and English, would have
+supposed that the same man who wrote the article had suddenly gone mad
+and written the title. But I know that we have here to deal with two
+different types of journalists; and the man who writes the headlines I
+will not dare to describe; for I have not seen him except in dreams.
+
+Another innocent complication is that the interviewer does sometimes
+translate things into his native language. It would not seem odd that a
+French interviewer should translate them into French; and it is certain
+that the American interviewer sometimes translates them into American.
+Those who imagine the two languages to be the same are more innocent
+than any interviewer. To take one out of the twenty examples, some of
+which I have mentioned elsewhere, suppose an interviewer had said that I
+had the reputation of being a nut. I should be flattered but faintly
+surprised at such a tribute to my dress and dashing exterior. I should
+afterwards be sobered and enlightened by discovering that in America a
+nut does not mean a dandy but a defective or imbecile person. And as I
+have here to translate their American phrase into English, it may be
+very defensible that they should translate my English phrases into
+American. Anyhow they often do translate them into American. In answer
+to the usual question about Prohibition I had made the usual answer,
+obvious to the point of dullness to those who are in daily contact with
+it, that it is a law that the rich make knowing they can always break
+it. From the printed interview it appeared that I had said,
+'Prohibition! All matter of dollar sign.' This is almost avowed
+translation, like a French translation. Nobody can suppose that it would
+come natural to an Englishman to talk about a dollar, still less about a
+dollar sign--whatever that may be. It is exactly as if he had made me
+talk about the Skelt and Stevenson Toy Theatre as 'a cent plain, and two
+cents coloured' or condemned a parsimonious policy as dime-wise and
+dollar-foolish. Another interviewer once asked me who was the greatest
+American writer. I have forgotten exactly what I said, but after
+mentioning several names, I said that the greatest natural genius and
+artistic force was probably Walt Whitman. The printed interview is more
+precise; and students of my literary and conversational style will be
+interested to know that I said, 'See here, Walt Whitman was your one
+real red-blooded man.' Here again I hardly think the translation can
+have been quite unconscious; most of my intimates are indeed aware that
+I do not talk like that, but I fancy that the same fact would have
+dawned on the journalist to whom I had been talking. And even this
+trivial point carries with it the two truths which must be, I fear, the
+rather monotonous moral of these pages. The first is that America and
+England can be far better friends when sharply divided than when
+shapelessly amalgamated. These two journalists were false reporters, but
+they were true translators. They were not so much interviewers as
+interpreters. And the second is that in any such difference it is often
+wholesome to look beneath the surface for a superiority. For ability to
+translate does imply ability to understand; and many of these
+journalists really did understand. I think there are many English
+journalists who would be more puzzled by so simple an idea as the
+plutocratic foundation of Prohibition. But the American knew at once
+that I meant it was a matter of dollar sign; probably because he knew
+very well that it is.
+
+Then again there is a curious convention by which American interviewing
+makes itself out much worse than it is. The reports are far more rowdy
+and insolent than the conversations. This is probably a part of the fact
+that a certain vivacity, which to some seems vitality and to some
+vulgarity, is not only an ambition but an ideal. It must always be
+grasped that this vulgarity is an ideal even more than it is a reality.
+It is an ideal when it is not a reality. A very quiet and intelligent
+young man, in a soft black hat and tortoise-shell spectacles, will ask
+for an interview with unimpeachable politeness, wait for his living
+subject with unimpeachable patience, talk to him quite sensibly for
+twenty minutes, and go noiselessly away. Then in the newspaper next
+morning you will read how he beat the bedroom door in, and pursued his
+victim on to the roof or dragged him from under the bed, and tore from
+him replies to all sorts of bald and ruthless questions printed in large
+black letters. I was often interviewed in the evening, and had no notion
+of how atrociously I had been insulted till I saw it in the paper next
+morning. I had no notion I had been on the rack of an inquisitor until I
+saw it in plain print; and then of course I believed it, with a faith
+and docility unknown in any previous epoch of history. An interesting
+essay might be written upon points upon which nations affect more vices
+than they possess; and it might deal more fully with the American
+pressman, who is a harmless clubman in private, and becomes a sort of
+highway-robber in print.
+
+I have turned this chapter into something like a defence of
+interviewers, because I really think they are made to bear too much of
+the burden of the bad developments of modern journalism. But I am very
+far from meaning to suggest that those bad developments are not very
+bad. So far from wishing to minimise the evil, I would in a real sense
+rather magnify it. I would suggest that the evil itself is a much larger
+and more fundamental thing; and that to deal with it by abusing poor
+journalists, doing their particular and perhaps peculiar duty, is like
+dealing with a pestilence by rubbing at one of the spots. What is wrong
+with the modern world will not be righted by attributing the whole
+disease to each of its symptoms in turn; first to the tavern and then to
+the cinema and then to the reporter's room. The evil of journalism is
+not in the journalists. It is not in the poor men on the lower level of
+the profession, but in the rich men at the top of the profession; or
+rather in the rich men who are too much on top of the profession even to
+belong to it. The trouble with newspapers is the Newspaper Trust, as the
+trouble might be with a Wheat Trust, without involving a vilification of
+all the people who grow wheat. It is the American plutocracy and not the
+American press. What is the matter with the modern world is not modern
+headlines or modern films or modern machinery. What is the matter with
+the modern world is the modern world; and the cure will come from
+another.
+
+
+
+
+_Some American Cities_
+
+
+There is one point, almost to be called a paradox, to be noted about New
+York; and that is that in one sense it is really new. The term very
+seldom has any relevance to the reality. The New Forest is nearly as old
+as the Conquest, and the New Theology is nearly as old as the Creed.
+Things have been offered to me as the new thought that might more
+properly be called the old thoughtlessness; and the thing we call the
+New Poor Law is already old enough to know better. But there is a sense
+in which New York is always new; in the sense that it is always being
+renewed. A stranger might well say that the chief industry of the
+citizens consists of destroying their city; but he soon realises that
+they always start it all over again with undiminished energy and hope.
+At first I had a fancy that they never quite finished putting up a big
+building without feeling that it was time to pull it down again; and
+that somebody began to dig up the first foundations while somebody else
+was putting on the last tiles. This fills the whole of this brilliant
+and bewildering place with a quite unique and unparalleled air of rapid
+ruin. Ruins spring up so suddenly like mushrooms, which with us are the
+growth of age like mosses, that one half expects to see ivy climbing
+quickly up the broken walls as in the nightmare of the Time Machine, or
+in some incredibly accelerated cinema.
+
+There is no sight in any country that raises my own spirits so much as
+a scaffolding. It is a tragedy that they always take the scaffolding
+away, and leave us nothing but a mere building. If they would only take
+the building away and leave us a beautiful scaffolding, it would in most
+cases be a gain to the loveliness of earth. If I could analyse what it
+is that lifts the heart about the lightness and clarity of such a white
+and wooden skeleton, I could explain what it is that is really charming
+about New York; in spite of its suffering from the curse of
+cosmopolitanism and even the provincial superstition of progress. It is
+partly that all this destruction and reconstruction is an unexhausted
+artistic energy; but it is partly also that it is an artistic energy
+that does not take itself too seriously. It is first because man is here
+a carpenter; and secondly because he is a stage carpenter. Indeed there
+is about the whole scene the spirit of scene-shifting. It therefore
+touches whatever nerve in us has since childhood thrilled at all
+theatrical things. But the picture will be imperfect unless we realise
+something which gives it unity and marks its chief difference from the
+climate and colours of Western Europe. We may say that the back-scene
+remains the same. The sky remained, and in the depths of winter it
+seemed to be blue with summer; and so clear that I almost flattered
+myself that clouds were English products like primroses. An American
+would probably retort on my charge of scene-shifting by saying that at
+least he only shifted the towers and domes of the earth; and that in
+England it is the heavens that are shifty. And indeed we have changes
+from day to day that would seem to him as distinct as different
+magic-lantern slides; one view showing the Bay of Naples and the next
+the North Pole. I do not mean, of course, that there are no changes in
+American weather; but as a matter of proportion it is true that the most
+unstable part of our scenery is the most stable part of theirs. Indeed
+we might almost be pardoned the boast that Britain alone really
+possesses the noble thing called weather; most other countries having to
+be content with climate. It must be confessed, however, that they often
+are content with it. And the beauty of New York, which is considerable,
+is very largely due to the clarity that brings out the colours of varied
+buildings against the equal colour of the sky. Strangely enough I found
+myself repeating about this vista of the West two vivid lines in which
+Mr. W. B. Yeats has called up a vision of the East:--
+
+
+ And coloured like the eastern birds
+ At evening in their rainless skies.
+
+
+To invoke a somewhat less poetic parallel, even the untravelled
+Englishman has probably seen American posters and trade advertisements
+of a patchy and gaudy kind, in which a white house or a yellow motor-car
+are cut out as in cardboard against a sky like blue marble. I used to
+think it was only New Art, but I found that it is really New York.
+
+It is not for nothing that the very nature of local character has gained
+the nickname of local colour. Colour runs through all our experience;
+and we all know that our childhood found talismanic gems in the very
+paints in the paint-box, or even in their very names. And just as the
+very name of 'crimson lake' really suggested to me some sanguine and
+mysterious mere, dark yet red as blood, so the very name of 'burnt
+sienna' became afterwards tangled up in my mind with the notion of
+something traditional and tragic; as if some such golden Italian city
+had really been darkened by many conflagrations in the wars of mediaeval
+democracy. Now if one had the caprice of conceiving some city exactly
+contrary to one thus seared and seasoned by fire, its colour might be
+called up to a childish fancy by the mere name of 'raw umber'; and such
+a city is New York. I used to be puzzled by the name of 'raw umber,'
+being unable to imagine the effect of fried umber or stewed umber. But
+the colours of New York are exactly in that key; and might be adumbrated
+by phrases like raw pink or raw yellow. It is really in a sense like
+something uncooked; or something which the satiric would call
+half-baked. And yet the effect is not only beautiful, it is even
+delicate. I had no name for this nuance; until I saw that somebody had
+written of 'the pastel-tinted towers of New York'; and I knew that the
+name had been found. There are no paints dry enough to describe all that
+dry light; and it is not a box of colours but of crayons. If the
+Englishman returning to England is moved at the sight of a block of
+white chalk, the American sees rather a bundle of chalks. Nor can I
+imagine anything more moving. Fairy tales are told to children about a
+country where the trees are like sugar-sticks and the lakes like
+treacle, but most children would feel almost as greedy for a fairyland
+where the trees were like brushes of green paint and the hills were of
+coloured chalks.
+
+But here what accentuates this arid freshness is the fragmentary look of
+the continual reconstruction and change. The strong daylight finds
+everywhere the broken edges of things, and the sort of hues we see in
+newly-turned earth or the white sections of trees. And it is in this
+respect that the local colour can literally be taken as local character.
+For New York considered in itself is primarily a place of unrest, and
+those who sincerely love it, as many do, love it for the romance of its
+restlessness. A man almost looks at a building as he passes to wonder
+whether it will be there when he comes back from his walk; and the doubt
+is part of an indescribable notion, as of a white nightmare of daylight,
+which is increased by the very numbering of the streets, with its tangle
+of numerals which at first makes an English head reel. The detail is
+merely a symbol; and when he is used to it he can see that it is, like
+the most humdrum human customs, both worse and better than his own. '271
+West 52nd Street' is the easiest of all addresses to find, but the
+hardest of all addresses to remember. He who is, like myself, so
+constituted as necessarily to lose any piece of paper he has particular
+reason to preserve, will find himself wishing the place were called
+'Pine Crest' or 'Heather Crag' like any unobtrusive villa in Streatham.
+But his sense of some sort of incalculable calculations, as of the
+vision of a mad mathematician, is rooted in a more real impression. His
+first feeling that his head is turning round is due to something really
+dizzy in the movement of a life that turns dizzily like a wheel. If
+there be in the modern mind something paradoxical that can find peace in
+change, it is here that it has indeed built its habitation or rather is
+still building and unbuilding it. One might fancy that it changes in
+everything and that nothing endures but its invisible name; and even its
+name, as I have said, seems to make a boast of novelty.
+
+That is something like a sincere first impression of the atmosphere of
+New York. Those who think that is the atmosphere of America have never
+got any farther than New York. We might almost say that they have never
+entered America, any more than if they had been detained like
+undesirable aliens at Ellis Island. And indeed there are a good many
+undesirable aliens detained in Manhattan Island too. But of that I will
+not speak, being myself an alien with no particular pretensions to be
+desirable. Anyhow, such is New York; but such is not the New World. The
+great American Republic contains very considerable varieties, and of
+these varieties I necessarily saw far too little to allow me to
+generalise. But from the little I did see, I should venture on the
+generalisation that the great part of America is singularly and even
+strikingly unlike New York. It goes without saying that New York is very
+unlike the vast agricultural plains and small agricultural towns of the
+Middle West, which I did see. It may be conjectured with some confidence
+that it is very unlike what is called the Wild and sometimes the Woolly
+West, which I did not see. But I am here comparing New York, not with
+the newer states of the prairie or the mountains, but with the other
+older cities of the Atlantic coast. And New York, as it seems to me, is
+quite vitally different from the other historic cities of America. It is
+so different that it shows them all for the moment in a false light, as
+a long white searchlight will throw a light that is fantastic and
+theatrical upon ancient and quiet villages folded in the everlasting
+hills. Philadelphia and Boston and Baltimore are more like those quiet
+villages than they are like New York.
+
+If I were to call this book 'The Antiquities of America,' I should give
+rise to misunderstanding and possibly to annoyance. And yet the double
+sense in such words is an undeserved misfortune for them. We talk of
+Plato or the Parthenon or the Greek passion for beauty as parts of the
+antique, but hardly of the antiquated. When we call them ancient it is
+not because they have perished, but rather because they have survived.
+In the same way I heard some New Yorkers refer to Philadelphia or
+Baltimore as 'dead towns.' They mean by a dead town a town that has had
+the impudence not to die. Such people are astonished to find an ancient
+thing alive, just as they are now astonished, and will be increasingly
+astonished, to find Poland or the Papacy or the French nation still
+alive. And what I mean by Philadelphia and Baltimore being alive is
+precisely what these people mean by their being dead; it is continuity;
+it is the presence of the life first breathed into them and of the
+purpose of their being; it is the benediction of the founders of the
+colonies and the fathers of the republic. This tradition is truly to be
+called life; for life alone can link the past and the future. It merely
+means that as what was done yesterday makes some difference to-day, so
+what is done to-day will make some difference to-morrow. In New York it
+is difficult to feel that any day will make any difference. These
+moderns only die daily without power to rise from the dead. But I can
+truly claim that in coming into some of these more stable cities of the
+States I felt something quite sincerely of that historic emotion which
+is satisfied in the eternal cities of the Mediterranean. I felt in
+America what many Americans suppose can only be felt in Europe. I have
+seldom had that sentiment stirred more simply and directly than when I
+saw from afar off, above the vast grey labyrinth of Philadelphia, great
+Penn upon his pinnacle like the graven figure of a god who had fashioned
+a new world; and remembered that his body lay buried in a field at the
+turning of a lane, a league from my own door.
+
+For this aspect of America is rather neglected in the talk about
+electricity and headlines. Needless to say, the modern vulgarity of
+avarice and advertisement sprawls all over Philadelphia or Boston; but
+so it does over Winchester or Canterbury. But most people know that
+there is something else to be found in Canterbury or Winchester; many
+people know that it is rather more interesting; and some people know
+that Alfred can still walk in Winchester and that St. Thomas at
+Canterbury was killed but did not die. It is at least as possible for a
+Philadelphian to feel the presence of Penn and Franklin as for an
+Englishman to see the ghosts of Alfred and of Becket. Tradition does not
+mean a dead town; it does not mean that the living are dead but that the
+dead are alive. It means that it still matters what Penn did two hundred
+years ago or what Franklin did a hundred years ago; I never could feel
+in New York that it mattered what anybody did an hour ago. And these
+things did and do matter. Quakerism is not my favourite creed; but on
+that day when William Penn stood unarmed upon that spot and made his
+treaty with the Red Indians, his creed of humanity did have a triumph
+and a triumph that has not turned back. The praise given to him is not a
+priggish fiction of our conventional history, though such fictions have
+illogically curtailed it. The Nonconformists have been rather unfair to
+Penn even in picking their praises; and they generally forget that
+toleration cuts both ways and that an open mind is open on all sides.
+Those who deify him for consenting to bargain with the savages cannot
+forgive him for consenting to bargain with the Stuarts. And the same is
+true of the other city, yet more closely connected with the tolerant
+experiment of the Stuarts. The state of Maryland was the first
+experiment in religious freedom in human history. Lord Baltimore and his
+Catholics were a long march ahead of William Penn and his Quakers on
+what is now called the path of progress. That the first religious
+toleration ever granted in the world was granted by Roman Catholics is
+one of those little informing details with which our Victorian histories
+did not exactly teem. But when I went into my hotel at Baltimore and
+found two priests waiting to see me, I was moved in a new fashion, for I
+felt that I touched the end of a living chain. Nor was the impression
+accidental; it will always remain with me with a mixture of gratitude
+and grief, for they brought a message of welcome from a great American
+whose name I had known from childhood and whose career was drawing to
+its close; for it was but a few days after I left the city that I
+learned that Cardinal Gibbons was dead.
+
+On the top of a hill on one side of the town stood the first monument
+raised after the Revolution to Washington. Beyond it was a new monument
+saluting in the name of Lafayette the American soldiers who fell
+fighting in France in the Great War. Between them were steps and stone
+seats, and I sat down on one of them and talked to two children who were
+clambering about the bases of the monument. I felt a profound and
+radiant peace in the thought that they at any rate were not going to my
+lecture. It made me happy that in that talk neither they nor I had any
+names. I was full of that indescribable waking vision of the strangeness
+of life, and especially of the strangeness of locality; of how we find
+places and lose them; and see faces for a moment in a far-off land, and
+it is equally mysterious if we remember and mysterious if we forget. I
+had even stirring in my head the suggestion of some verses that I shall
+never finish--
+
+
+ If I ever go back to Baltimore
+ The city of Maryland.
+
+
+But the poem would have to contain far too much; for I was thinking of a
+thousand things at once; and wondering what the children would be like
+twenty years after and whether they would travel in white goods or be
+interested in oil, and I was not untouched (it may be said) by the fact
+that a neighbouring shop had provided the only sample of the substance
+called 'tea' ever found on the American continent; and in front of me
+soared up into the sky on wings of stone the column of all those high
+hopes of humanity a hundred years ago; and beyond there were lighted
+candles in the chapels and prayers in the ante-chambers, where perhaps
+already a Prince of the Church was dying. Only on a later page can I
+even attempt to comb out such a tangle of contrasts, which is indeed the
+tangle of America and this mortal life; but sitting there on that stone
+seat under that quiet sky, I had some experience of the thronging
+thousands of living thoughts and things, noisy and numberless as birds,
+that give its everlasting vivacity and vitality to a dead town.
+
+Two other cities I visited which have this particular type of
+traditional character, the one being typical of the North and the other
+of the South. At least I may take as convenient anti-types the towns of
+Boston and St. Louis; and we might add Nashville as being a shade more
+truly southern than St. Louis. To the extreme South, in the sense of
+what is called the Black Belt, I never went at all. Now English
+travellers expect the South to be somewhat traditional; but they are not
+prepared for the aspects of Boston in the North which are even more so.
+If we wished only for an antic of antithesis, we might say that on one
+side the places are more prosaic than the names and on the other the
+names are more prosaic than the places. St. Louis is a fine town, and we
+recognise a fine instinct of the imagination that set on the hill
+overlooking the river the statue of that holy horseman who has
+christened the city. But the city is not as beautiful as its name; it
+could not be. Indeed these titles set up a standard to which the most
+splendid spires and turrets could not rise, and below which the
+commercial chimneys and sky-signs conspicuously sink. We should think it
+odd if Belfast had borne the name of Joan of Arc. We should be slightly
+shocked if the town of Johannesburg happened to be called Jesus Christ.
+But few have noted a blasphemy, or even a somewhat challenging
+benediction, to be found in the very name of San Francisco.
+
+But on the other hand a place like Boston is much more beautiful than
+its name. And, as I have suggested, an Englishman's general information,
+or lack of information, leaves him in some ignorance of the type of
+beauty that turns up in that type of place. He has heard so much about
+the purely commercial North as against the agricultural and
+aristocratic South, and the traditions of Boston and Philadelphia are
+rather too tenuous and delicate to be seen from across the Atlantic. But
+here also there are traditions and a great deal of traditionalism. The
+circle of old families, which still meets with a certain exclusiveness
+in Philadelphia, is the sort of thing that we in England should expect
+to find rather in New Orleans. The academic aristocracy of Boston, which
+Oliver Wendell Holmes called the Brahmins, is still a reality though it
+was always a minority and is now a very small minority. An epigram,
+invented by Yale at the expense of Harvard, describes it as very small
+indeed:--
+
+
+ Here is to jolly old Boston, the home of the bean and the cod,
+ Where Cabots speak only to Lowells, and Lowells speak only to God.
+
+
+But an aristocracy must be a minority, and it is arguable that the
+smaller it is the better. I am bound to say, however, that the
+distinguished Dr. Cabot, the present representative of the family, broke
+through any taboo that may tie his affections to his Creator and to Miss
+Amy Lowell, and broadened his sympathies so indiscriminately as to show
+kindness and hospitality to so lost a being as an English lecturer. But
+if the thing is hardly a limit it is very living as a memory; and Boston
+on this side is very much a place of memories. It would be paying it a
+very poor compliment merely to say that parts of it reminded me of
+England; for indeed they reminded me of English things that have largely
+vanished from England. There are old brown houses in the corners of
+squares and streets that are like glimpses of a man's forgotten
+childhood; and when I saw the long path with posts where the Autocrat
+may be supposed to have walked with the schoolmistress, I felt I had
+come to the land where old tales come true.
+
+I pause in this place upon this particular aspect of America because it
+is very much missed in a mere contrast with England. I need not say that
+if I felt it even about slight figures of fiction, I felt it even more
+about solid figures of history. Such ghosts seemed particularly solid in
+the Southern States, precisely because of the comparative quietude and
+leisure of the atmosphere of the South. It was never more vivid to me
+than when coming in, at a quiet hour of the night, into the
+comparatively quiet hotel at Nashville in Tennessee, and mounting to a
+dim and deserted upper floor where I found myself before a faded
+picture; and from the dark canvas looked forth the face of Andrew
+Jackson, watchful like a white eagle.
+
+At that moment, perhaps, I was in more than one sense alone. Most
+Englishmen know a good deal of American fiction, and nothing whatever of
+American history. They know more about the autocrat of the
+breakfast-table than about the autocrat of the army and the people, the
+one great democratic despot of modern times; the Napoleon of the New
+World. The only notion the English public ever got about American
+politics they got from a novel, _Uncle Tom's Cabin_; and to say the
+least of it, it was no exception to the prevalence of fiction over fact.
+Hundreds of us have heard of Tom Sawyer for one who has heard of Charles
+Sumner; and it is probable that most of us could pass a more detailed
+examination about Toddy and Budge than about Lincoln and Lee. But in
+the case of Andrew Jackson it may be that I felt a special sense of
+individual isolation; for I believe that there are even fewer among
+Englishmen than among Americans who realise that the energy of that
+great man was largely directed towards saving us from the chief evil
+which destroys the nations to-day. He sought to cut down, as with a
+sword of simplicity, the new and nameless enormity of finance; and he
+must have known, as by a lightning flash, that the people were behind
+him, because all the politicians were against him. The end of that
+struggle is not yet; but if the bank is stronger than the sword or the
+sceptre of popular sovereignty, the end will be the end of democracy. It
+will have to choose between accepting an acknowledged dictator and
+accepting dictation which it dare not acknowledge. The process will have
+begun by giving power to people and refusing to give them their titles;
+and it will have ended by giving the power to people who refuse to give
+us their names.
+
+But I have a special reason for ending this chapter on the name of the
+great popular dictator who made war on the politicians and the
+financiers. This chapter does not profess to touch on one in twenty of
+the interesting cities of America, even in this particular aspect of
+their relation to the history of America, which is so much neglected in
+England. If that were so, there would be a great deal to say even about
+the newest of them; Chicago, for instance, is certainly something more
+than the mere pork-packing yard that English tradition suggests; and it
+has been building a boulevard not unworthy of its splendid position on
+its splendid lake. But all these cities are defiled and even diseased
+with industrialism. It is due to the Americans to remember that they
+have deliberately preserved one of their cities from such defilement and
+such disease. And that is the presidential city, which stands in the
+American mind for the same ideal as the President; the idea of the
+Republic that rises above modern money-getting and endures. There has
+really been an effort to keep the White House white. No factories are
+allowed in that town; no more than the necessary shops are tolerated. It
+is a beautiful city; and really retains something of that classical
+serenity of the eighteenth century in which the Fathers of the Republic
+moved. With all respect to the colonial place of that name, I do not
+suppose that Wellington is particularly like Wellington. But Washington
+really is like Washington.
+
+In this, as in so many things, there is no harm in our criticising
+foreigners, if only we would also criticise ourselves. In other words,
+the world might need even less of its new charity, if it had a little
+more of the old humility. When we complain of American individualism, we
+forget that we have fostered it by ourselves having far less of this
+impersonal ideal of the Republic or commonwealth as a whole. When we
+complain, very justly, for instance, of great pictures passing into the
+possession of American magnates, we ought to remember that we paved the
+way for it by allowing them all to accumulate in the possession of
+English magnates. It is bad that a public treasure should be in the
+possession of a private man in America, but we took the first step in
+lightly letting it disappear into the private collection of a man in
+England. I know all about the genuine national tradition which treated
+the aristocracy as constituting the state; but these very foreign
+purchases go to prove that we ought to have had a state independent of
+the aristocracy. It is true that rich Americans do sometimes covet the
+monuments of our culture in a fashion that rightly revolts us as vulgar
+and irrational. They are said sometimes to want to take whole buildings
+away with them; and too many of such buildings are private and for sale.
+There were wilder stories of a millionaire wishing to transplant
+Glastonbury Abbey and similar buildings as if they were portable shrubs
+in pots. It is obvious that it is nonsense as well as vandalism to
+separate Glastonbury Abbey from Glastonbury. I can understand a man
+venerating it as a ruin; and I can understand a man despising it as a
+rubbish-heap. But it is senseless to insult a thing in order to
+idolatrise it; it is meaningless to desecrate the shrine in order to
+worship the stones. That sort of thing is the bad side of American
+appetite and ambition; and we are perfectly right to see it not only as
+a deliberate blasphemy but as an unconscious buffoonery. But there is
+another side to the American tradition, which is really too much lacking
+in our own tradition. And it is illustrated in this idea of preserving
+Washington as a sort of paradise of impersonal politics without personal
+commerce. Nobody could buy the White House or the Washington Monument;
+it may be hinted (as by an inhabitant of Glastonbury) that nobody wants
+to; but nobody could if he did want to. There is really a certain air of
+serenity and security about the place, lacking in every other American
+town. It is increased, of course, by the clear blue skies of that
+half-southern province, from which smoke has been banished. The effect
+is not so much in the mere buildings, though they are classical and
+often beautiful. But whatever else they have built, they have built a
+great blue dome, the largest dome in the world. And the place does
+express something in the inconsistent idealism of this strange people;
+and here at least they have lifted it higher than all the sky-scrapers,
+and set it in a stainless sky.
+
+
+
+
+_In the American Country_
+
+
+The sharpest pleasure of a traveller is in finding the things which he
+did not expect, but which he might have expected to expect. I mean the
+things that are at once so strange and so obvious that they must have
+been noticed, yet somehow they have not been noted. Thus I had heard a
+thousand things about Jerusalem before I ever saw it; I had heard
+rhapsodies and disparagements of every description. Modern rationalistic
+critics, with characteristic consistency, had blamed it for its
+accumulated rubbish and its modern restoration, for its antiquated
+superstition and its up-to-date vulgarity. But somehow the one
+impression that had never pierced through their description was the
+simple and single impression of a city on a hill, with walls coming to
+the very edge of slopes that were almost as steep as walls; the turreted
+city which crowns a cone-shaped hill in so many mediaeval landscapes.
+One would suppose that this was at once the plainest and most
+picturesque of all the facts; yet somehow, in my reading, I had always
+lost it amid a mass of minor facts that were merely details. We know
+that a city that is set upon a hill cannot be hid; and yet it would seem
+that it is exactly the hill that is hid; though perhaps it is only hid
+from the wise and the understanding. I had a similar and simple
+impression when I discovered America. I cannot avoid the phrase; for it
+would really seem that each man discovers it for himself.
+
+Thus I had heard a great deal, before I saw them, about the tall and
+dominant buildings of New York. I agree that they have an instant effect
+on the imagination; which I think is increased by the situation in which
+they stand, and out of which they arose. They are all the more
+impressive because the building, while it is vertically so vast, is
+horizontally almost narrow. New York is an island, and has all the
+intensive romance of an island. It is a thing of almost infinite height
+upon very finite foundations. It is almost like a lofty lighthouse upon
+a lonely rock. But this story of the sky-scrapers, which I had often
+heard, would by itself give a curiously false impression of the freshest
+and most curious characteristic of American architecture. Told only in
+terms of these great towers of stone and brick in the big industrial
+cities, the story would tend too much to an impression of something cold
+and colossal like the monuments of Asia. It would suggest a modern
+Babylon altogether too Babylonian. It would imply that a man of the new
+world was a sort of new Pharaoh, who built not so much a pyramid as a
+pagoda of pyramids. It would suggest houses built by mammoths out of
+mountains; the cities reared by elephants in their own elephantine
+school of architecture. And New York does recall the most famous of all
+sky-scrapers--the tower of Babel. She recalls it none the less because
+there is no doubt about the confusion of tongues. But in truth the very
+reverse is true of most of the buildings in America. I had no sooner
+passed out into the suburbs of New York on the way to Boston than I
+began to see something else quite contrary and far more curious. I saw
+forests upon forests of small houses stretching away to the horizon as
+literal forests do; villages and towns and cities. And they were, in
+another sense, literally like forests. They were all made of wood. It
+was almost as fantastic to an English eye as if they had been all made
+of cardboard. I had long outlived the silly old joke that referred to
+Americans as if they all lived in the backwoods. But, in a sense, if
+they do not live in the woods, they are not yet out of the wood.
+
+I do not say this in any sense as a criticism. As it happens, I am
+particularly fond of wood. Of all the superstitions which our fathers
+took lightly enough to love, the most natural seems to me the notion it
+is lucky to touch wood. Some of them affect me the less as
+superstitions, because I feel them as symbols. If humanity had really
+thought Friday unlucky it would have talked about bad Friday instead of
+good Friday. And while I feel the thrill of thirteen at a table, I am
+not so sure that it is the most miserable of all human fates to fill the
+places of the Twelve Apostles. But the idea that there was something
+cleansing or wholesome about the touching of wood seems to me one of
+those ideas which are truly popular, because they are truly poetic. It
+is probable enough that the conception came originally from the healing
+of the wood of the Cross; but that only clinches the divine coincidence.
+It is like that other divine coincidence that the Victim was a
+carpenter, who might almost have made His own cross. Whether we take the
+mystical or the mythical explanation, there is obviously a very deep
+connection between the human working in wood and such plain and pathetic
+mysticism. It gives something like a touch of the holy childishness to
+the tale, as if that terrible engine could be a toy. In the same fashion
+a child fancies that mysterious and sinister horse, which was the
+downfall of Troy, as something plain and staring, and perhaps spotted,
+like his own rocking-horse in the nursery.
+
+It might be said symbolically that Americans have a taste for
+rocking-horses, as they certainly have a taste for rocking-chairs. A
+flippant critic might suggest that they select rocking-chairs so that,
+even when they are sitting down, they need not be sitting still.
+Something of this restlessness in the race may really be involved in the
+matter; but I think the deeper significance of the rocking-chair may
+still be found in the deeper symbolism of the rocking-horse. I think
+there is behind all this fresh and facile use of wood a certain spirit
+that is childish in the good sense of the word; something that is
+innocent, and easily pleased. It is not altogether untrue, still less is
+it unfriendly, to say that the landscape seems to be dotted with dolls'
+houses. It is the true tragedy of every fallen son of Adam that he has
+grown too big to live in a doll's house. These things seem somehow to
+escape the irony of time by not even challenging it; they are too
+temporary even to be merely temporal. These people are not building
+tombs; they are not, as in the fine image of Mrs. Meynell's poem, merely
+building ruins. It is not easy to imagine the ruins of a doll's house;
+and that is why a doll's house is an everlasting habitation. How far it
+promises a political permanence is a matter for further discussion; I am
+only describing the mood of discovery; in which all these cottages built
+of lath, like the palaces of a pantomime, really seemed coloured like
+the clouds of morning; which are both fugitive and eternal.
+
+There is also in all this an atmosphere that comes in another sense from
+the nursery. We hear much of Americans being educated on English
+literature; but I think few Americans realise how much English children
+have been educated on American literature. It is true, and it is
+inevitable, that they can only be educated on rather old-fashioned
+American literature. Mr. Bernard Shaw, in one of his plays, noted truly
+the limitations of the young American millionaire, and especially the
+staleness of his English culture; but there is necessarily another side
+to it. If the American talked more of Macaulay than of Nietzsche, we
+should probably talk more of Emerson than of Ezra Pound. Whether this
+staleness is necessarily a disadvantage is, of course, a different
+question. But, in any case, it is true that the old American books were
+often the books of our childhood, even in the literal sense of the books
+of our nursery. I know few men in England who have not left their
+boyhood to some extent lost and entangled in the forests of _Huckleberry
+Finn_. I know few women in England, from the most revolutionary
+Suffragette to the most carefully preserved Early Victorian, who will
+not confess to having passed a happy childhood with the Little Women of
+Miss Alcott. _Helen's Babies_ was the first and by far the best book in
+the modern scriptures of baby-worship. And about all this old-fashioned
+American literature there was an undefinable savour that satisfied, and
+even fed, our growing minds. Perhaps it was the smell of growing things;
+but I am far from certain that it was not simply the smell of wood. Now
+that all the memory comes back to me, it seems to come back heavy in a
+hundred forms with the fragrance and the touch of timber. There was the
+perpetual reference to the wood-pile, the perpetual background of the
+woods. There was something crude and clean about everything; something
+fresh and strange about those far-off houses, to which I could not then
+have put a name. Indeed, many things become clear in this wilderness of
+wood, which could only be expressed in symbol and even in fantasy. I
+will not go so far as to say that it shortened the transition from Log
+Cabin to White House; as if the White House were itself made of white
+wood (as Oliver Wendell Holmes said), 'that cuts like cheese, but lasts
+like iron for things like these.' But I will say that the experience
+illuminates some other lines by Holmes himself:--
+
+
+ Little I ask, my wants are few,
+ I only ask a hut of stone.
+
+
+I should not have known, in England, that he was already asking for a
+good deal even in asking for that. In the presence of this wooden world
+the very combination of words seems almost a contradiction, like a hut
+of marble, or a hovel of gold.
+
+It was therefore with an almost infantile pleasure that I looked at all
+this promising expansion of fresh-cut timber and thought of the housing
+shortage at home. I know not by what incongruous movement of the mind
+there swept across me, at the same moment, the thought of things
+ancestral and hoary with the light of ancient dawns. The last war
+brought back body-armour; the next war may bring back bows and arrows.
+And I suddenly had a memory of old wooden houses in London; and a model
+of Shakespeare's town.
+
+It is possible indeed that such Elizabethan memories may receive a check
+or a chill when the traveller comes, as he sometimes does, to the
+outskirts of one of these strange hamlets of new frame-houses, and is
+confronted with a placard inscribed in enormous letters, 'Watch Us
+Grow.' He can always imagine that he sees the timbers swelling before
+his eyes like pumpkins in some super-tropical summer. But he may have
+formed the conviction that no such proclamation could be found outside
+Shakespeare's town. And indeed there is a serious criticism here, to any
+one who knows history; since the things that grow are not always the
+things that remain; and pumpkins of that expansiveness have a tendency
+to burst. I was always told that Americans were harsh, hustling, rather
+rude and perhaps vulgar; but they were very practical and the future
+belonged to them. I confess I felt a fine shade of difference; I liked
+the Americans; I thought they were sympathetic, imaginative, and full of
+fine enthusiasms; the one thing I could not always feel clear about was
+their future. I believe they were happier in their frame-houses than
+most people in most houses; having democracy, good education, and a
+hobby of work; the one doubt that did float across me was something
+like, 'Will all this be here at all in two hundred years?' That was the
+first impression produced by the wooden houses that seemed like the
+waggons of gipsies; it is a serious impression, but there is an answer
+to it. It is an answer that opens on the traveller more and more as he
+goes westward, and finds the little towns dotted about the vast central
+prairies. And the answer is agriculture. Wooden houses may or may not
+last; but farms will last; and farming will always last.
+
+The houses may look like gipsy caravans on a heath or common; but they
+are not on a heath or common. They are on the most productive and
+prosperous land, perhaps, in the modern world. The houses might fall
+down like shanties, but the fields would remain; and whoever tills
+those fields will count for a great deal in the affairs of humanity.
+They are already counting for a great deal, and possibly for too much,
+in the affairs of America. The real criticism of the Middle West is
+concerned with two facts, neither of which has been yet adequately
+appreciated by the educated class in England. The first is that the turn
+of the world has come, and the turn of the agricultural countries with
+it. That is the meaning of the resurrection of Ireland; that is the
+meaning of the practical surrender of the Bolshevist Jews to the Russian
+peasants. The other is that in most places these peasant societies carry
+on what may be called the Catholic tradition. The Middle West is perhaps
+the one considerable place where they still carry on the Puritan
+tradition. But the Puritan tradition was originally a tradition of the
+town; and the second truth about the Middle West turns largely on its
+moral relation to the town. As I shall suggest presently, there is much
+in common between this agricultural society of America and the great
+agricultural societies of Europe. It tends, as the agricultural society
+nearly always does, to some decent degree of democracy. The agricultural
+society tends to the agrarian law. But in Puritan America there is an
+additional problem, which I can hardly explain without a periphrasis.
+
+There was a time when the progress of the cities seemed to mock the
+decay of the country. It is more and more true, I think, to-day that it
+is rather the decay of the cities that seems to poison the progress and
+promise of the countryside. The cinema boasts of being a substitute for
+the tavern, but I think it a very bad substitute. I think so quite apart
+from the question about fermented liquor. Nobody enjoys cinemas more
+than I, but to enjoy them a man has only to look and not even to listen,
+and in a tavern he has to talk. Occasionally, I admit, he has to fight;
+but he need never move at the movies. Thus in the real village inn are
+the real village politics, while in the other are only the remote and
+unreal metropolitan politics. And those central city politics are not
+only cosmopolitan politics but corrupt politics. They corrupt everything
+that they reach, and this is the real point about many perplexing
+questions.
+
+For instance, so far as I am concerned, it is the whole point about
+feminism and the factory. It is very largely the point about feminism
+and many other callings, apparently more cultured than the factory, such
+as the law court and the political platform. When I see women so wildly
+anxious to tie themselves to all this machinery of the modern city my
+first feeling is not indignation, but that dark and ominous sort of pity
+with which we should see a crowd rushing to embark in a leaking ship
+under a lowering storm. When I see wives and mothers going in for
+business government I not only regard it as a bad business but as a
+bankrupt business. It seems to me very much as if the peasant women,
+just before the French Revolution, had insisted on being made duchesses
+or (as is quite as logical and likely) on being made dukes.
+
+It is as if those ragged women, instead of crying out for bread, had
+cried out for powder and patches. By the time they were wearing them
+they would be the only people wearing them. For powder and patches soon
+went out of fashion, but bread does not go out of fashion. In the same
+way, if women desert the family for the factory, they may find they have
+only done it for a deserted factory. It would have been very unwise of
+the lower orders to claim all the privileges of the higher orders in the
+last days of the French monarchy. It would have been very laborious to
+learn the science of heraldry or the tables of precedence when all such
+things were at once most complicated and most moribund. It would be
+tiresome to be taught all those tricks just when the whole bag of tricks
+was coming to an end. A French satirist might have written a fine
+apologue about Jacques Bonhomme coming up to Paris in his wooden shoes
+and demanding to be made Gold Stick in Waiting in the name of Liberty,
+Equality, and Fraternity; but I fear the stick in waiting would be
+waiting still.
+
+One of the first topics on which I heard conversation turning in America
+was that of a very interesting book called _Main Street_, which involves
+many of these questions of the modern industrial and the eternal
+feminine. It is simply the story, or perhaps rather the study than the
+story, of a young married woman in one of the multitudinous little towns
+on the great central plains of America; and of a sort of struggle
+between her own more restless culture and the provincial prosperity of
+her neighbours. There are a number of true and telling suggestions in
+the book, but the one touch which I found tingling in the memory of many
+readers was the last sentence, in which the master of the house, with
+unshaken simplicity, merely asks for the whereabouts of some domestic
+implement; I think it was a screw-driver. It seems to me a harmless
+request, but from the way people talked about it one might suppose he
+had asked for a screw-driver to screw down the wife in her coffin. And a
+great many advanced persons would tell us that wooden house in which
+she lived really was like a wooden coffin. But this appears to me to be
+taking a somewhat funereal view of the life of humanity.
+
+For, after all, on the face of it at any rate, this is merely the life
+of humanity, and even the life which all humanitarians have striven to
+give to humanity. Revolutionists have treated it not only as the normal
+but even as the ideal. Revolutionary wars have been waged to establish
+this; revolutionary heroes have fought, and revolutionary martyrs have
+died, only to build such a wooden house for such a worthy family. Men
+have taken the sword and perished by the sword in order that the poor
+gentleman might have liberty to look for his screw-driver. For there is
+here a fact about America that is almost entirely unknown in England.
+The English have not in the least realised the real strength of America.
+We in England hear a great deal, we hear far too much, about the
+economic energy of industrial America, about the money of Mr. Morgan, or
+the machinery of Mr. Edison. We never realise that while we in England
+suffer from the same sort of successes in capitalism and clockwork, we
+have not got what the Americans have got; something at least to balance
+it in the way of a free agriculture, a vast field of free farms dotted
+with small freeholders. For the reason I shall mention in a moment, they
+are not perhaps in the fullest and finest sense a peasantry. But they
+are in the practical and political sense a pure peasantry, in that their
+comparative equality is a true counterweight to the toppling injustice
+of the towns.
+
+And, even in places like that described as Main Street, that comparative
+equality can immediately be felt. The men may be provincials, but they
+are certainly citizens; they consult on a common basis. And I repeat
+that in this, after all, they do achieve what many prophets and
+righteous men have died to achieve. This plain village, fairly
+prosperous, fairly equal, untaxed by tyrants and untroubled by wars, is
+after all the place which reformers have regarded as their aim; whenever
+reformers have used their wits sufficiently to have any aim. The march
+to Utopia, the march to the Earthly Paradise, the march to the New
+Jerusalem, has been very largely the march to Main Street. And the
+latest modern sensation is a book written to show how wretched it is to
+live there.
+
+All this is true, and I think the lady might be more contented in her
+coffin, which is more comfortably furnished than most of the coffins
+where her fellow creatures live. Nevertheless, there is an answer to
+this, or at least a modification of it. There is a case for the lady and
+a case against the gentleman and the screw-driver. And when we have
+noted what it really is, we have noted the real disadvantage in a
+situation like that of modern America, and especially the Middle West.
+And with that we come back to the truth with which I started this
+speculation; the truth that few have yet realised, but of which I, for
+one, am more and more convinced--that industrialism is spreading because
+it is decaying; that only the dust and ashes of its dissolution are
+choking up the growth of natural things everywhere and turning the green
+world grey.
+
+In this relative agricultural equality the Americans of the Middle West
+are far in advance of the English of the twentieth century. It is not
+their fault if they are still some centuries behind the English of the
+twelfth century. But the defect by which they fall short of being a true
+peasantry is that they do not produce their own spiritual food, in the
+same sense as their own material food. They do not, like some
+peasantries, create other kinds of culture besides the kind called
+agriculture. Their culture comes from the great cities; and that is
+where all the evil comes from.
+
+If a man had gone across England in the Middle Ages, or even across
+Europe in more recent times, he would have found a culture which showed
+its vitality by its variety. We know the adventures of the three
+brothers in the old fairy tales who passed across the endless plain from
+city to city, and found one kingdom ruled by a wizard and another wasted
+by a dragon, one people living in castles of crystal and another sitting
+by fountains of wine. These are but legendary enlargements of the real
+adventures of a traveller passing from one patch of peasantry to
+another, and finding women wearing strange head-dresses and men singing
+new songs.
+
+A traveller in America would be somewhat surprised if he found the
+people in the city of St. Louis all wearing crowns and crusading armour
+in honour of their patron saint. He might even feel some faint surprise
+if he found all the citizens of Philadelphia clad in a composite
+costume, combining that of a Quaker with that of a Red Indian, in honour
+of the noble treaty of William Penn. Yet these are the sort of local and
+traditional things that would really be found giving variety to the
+valleys of mediaeval Europe. I myself felt a perfectly genuine and
+generous exhilaration of freedom and fresh enterprise in new places like
+Oklahoma. But you would hardly find in Oklahoma what was found in
+Oberammergau. What goes to Oklahoma is not the peasant play, but the
+cinema. And the objection to the cinema is not so much that it goes to
+Oklahoma as that it does not come from Oklahoma. In other words, these
+people have on the economic side a much closer approach than we have to
+economic freedom. It is not for us, who have allowed our land to be
+stolen by squires and then vulgarised by sham squires, to sneer at such
+colonists as merely crude and prosaic. They at least have really kept
+something of the simplicity and, therefore, the dignity of democracy;
+and that democracy may yet save their country even from the calamities
+of wealth and science.
+
+But, while these farmers do not need to become industrial in order to
+become industrious, they do tend to become industrial in so far as they
+become intellectual. Their culture, and to some great extent their
+creed, do come along the railroads from the great modern urban centres,
+and bring with them a blast of death and a reek of rotting things. It is
+that influence that alone prevents the Middle West from progressing
+towards the Middle Ages.
+
+For, after all, linked up in a hundred legends of the Middle Ages, may
+be found a symbolic pattern of hammers and nails and saws; and there is
+no reason why they should not have also sanctified screw-drivers. There
+is no reason why the screw-driver that seemed such a trifle to the
+author should not have been borne in triumph down Main Street like a
+sword of state, in some pageant of the Guild of St. Joseph of the
+Carpenters or St. Dunstan of the Smiths. It was the Catholic poetry and
+piety that filled common life with something that is lacking in the
+worthy and virile democracy of the West. Nor are Americans of
+intelligence so ignorant of this as some may suppose. There is an
+admirable society called the Mediaevalists in Chicago; whose name and
+address will strike many as suggesting a certain struggle of the soul
+against the environment. With the national heartiness they blazon their
+note-paper with heraldry and the hues of Gothic windows; with the
+national high spirits they assume the fancy dress of friars; but any one
+who should essay to laugh at them instead of with them would find out
+his mistake. For many of them do really know a great deal about
+mediaevalism; much more than I do, or most other men brought up on an
+island that is crowded with its cathedrals. Something of the same spirit
+may be seen in the beautiful new plans and buildings of Yale,
+deliberately modelled not on classical harmony but on Gothic
+irregularity and surprise. The grace and energy of the mediaeval
+architecture resurrected by a man like Mr. R. A. Cram of Boston has
+behind it not merely artistic but historical and ethical enthusiasm; an
+enthusiasm for the Catholic creed which made mediaeval civilisation.
+Even on the huge Puritan plains of the Middle West the influence strays
+in the strangest fashion. And it is notable that among the pessimistic
+epitaphs of the Spoon River Anthology, in that churchyard compared with
+which most churchyards are cheery, among the suicides and secret
+drinkers and monomaniacs and hideous hypocrites of that happy village,
+almost the only record of respect and a recognition of wider hopes is
+dedicated to the Catholic priest.
+
+But Main Street is Main Street in the main. Main Street is Modern Street
+in its multiplicity of mildly half-educated people; and all these
+historic things are a thousand miles from them. They have not heard the
+ancient noise either of arts or arms; the building of the cathedral or
+the marching of the crusade. But at least they have not deliberately
+slandered the crusade and defaced the cathedral. And if they have not
+produced the peasant arts, they can still produce the peasant crafts.
+They can sow and plough and reap and live by these everlasting things;
+nor shall the foundations of their state be moved. And the memory of
+those colossal fields, of those fruitful deserts, came back the more
+readily into my mind because I finished these reflections in the very
+heart of a modern industrial city, if it can be said to have a heart. It
+was in fact an English industrial city, but it struck me that it might
+very well be an American one. And it also struck me that we yield rather
+too easily to America the dusty palm of industrial enterprise, and feel
+far too little apprehension about greener and fresher vegetables. There
+is a story of an American who carefully studied all the sights of London
+or Rome or Paris, and came to the conclusion that 'it had nothing on
+Minneapolis.' It seems to me that Minneapolis has nothing on Manchester.
+There were the same grey vistas of shops full of rubber tyres and
+metallic appliances; a man felt that he might walk a day without seeing
+a blade of grass; the whole horizon was so infinite with efficiency. The
+factory chimneys might have been Pittsburg; the sky-signs might have
+been New York. One looked up in a sort of despair at the sky, not for a
+sky-sign but in a sense for a sign, for some sentence of significance
+and judgment; by the instinct that makes any man in such a scene seek
+for the only thing that has not been made by men. But even that was
+illogical, for it was night, and I could only expect to see the stars,
+which might have reminded me of Old Glory; but that was not the sign
+that oppressed me. All the ground was a wilderness of stone and all the
+buildings a forest of brick; I was far in the interior of a labyrinth of
+lifeless things. Only, looking up, between two black chimneys and a
+telegraph pole, I saw vast and far and faint, as the first men saw it,
+the silver pattern of the Plough.
+
+
+
+
+_The American Business Man_
+
+
+It is a commonplace that men are all agreed in using symbols, and all
+differ about the meaning of the symbols. It is obvious that a Russian
+republican might come to identify the eagle as a bird of empire and
+therefore a bird of prey. But when he ultimately escaped to the land of
+the free, he might find the same bird on the American coinage figuring
+as a bird of freedom. Doubtless, he might find many other things to
+surprise him in the land of the free, and many calculated to make him
+think that the bird, if not imperial, was at least rather imperious. But
+I am not discussing those exceptional details here. It is equally
+obvious that a Russian reactionary might cross the world with a vow of
+vengeance against the red flag. But that authoritarian might have some
+difficulties with the authorities, if he shot a man for using the red
+flag on the railway between Willesden and Clapham Junction.
+
+But, of course, the difficulty about symbols is generally much more
+subtle than in these simple cases. I have remarked elsewhere that the
+first thing which a traveller should write about is the thing which he
+has not read about. It may be a small or secondary thing, but it is a
+thing that he has seen and not merely expected to see.
+
+I gave the example of the great multitude of wooden houses in America;
+we might say of wooden towns and wooden cities. But after he has seen
+such things, his next duty is to see the meaning of them; and here a
+great deal of complication and controversy is possible. The thing
+probably does not mean what he first supposes it to mean on the face of
+it; but even on the face of it, it might mean many different and even
+opposite things.
+
+For instance, a wooden house might suggest an almost savage solitude; a
+rude shanty put together by a pioneer in a forest; or it might mean a
+very recent and rapid solution of the housing problem, conducted cheaply
+and therefore on a very large scale. A wooden house might suggest the
+very newest thing in America or one of the very oldest things in
+England. It might mean a grey ruin at Stratford or a white exhibition at
+Earl's Court.
+
+It is when we come to this interpretation of international symbols that
+we make most of the international mistakes. Without the smallest error
+of detail, I will promise to prove that Oriental women are independent
+because they wear trousers, or Oriental men subject because they wear
+skirts. Merely to apply it to this case, I will take the example of two
+very commonplace and trivial objects of modern life--a walking stick and
+a fur coat.
+
+As it happened, I travelled about America with two sticks, like a
+Japanese nobleman with his two swords. I fear the simile is too stately.
+I bore more resemblance to a cripple with two crutches or a highly
+ineffectual version of the devil on two sticks. I carried them both
+because I valued them both, and did not wish to risk losing either of
+them in my erratic travels. One is a very plain grey stick from the
+woods of Buckinghamshire, but as I took it with me to Palestine it
+partakes of the character of a pilgrim's staff. When I can say that I
+have taken the same stick to Jerusalem and to Chicago, I think the stick
+and I may both have a rest. The other, which I value even more, was
+given me by the Knights of Columbus at Yale, and I wish I could think
+that their chivalric title allowed me to regard it as a sword.
+
+Now, I do not know whether the Americans I met, struck by the fastidious
+foppery of my dress and appearance, concluded that it is the custom of
+elegant English dandies to carry two walking sticks. But I do know that
+it is much less common among Americans than among Englishmen to carry
+even one. The point, however, is not merely that more sticks are carried
+by Englishmen than by Americans; it is that the sticks which are carried
+by Americans stand for something entirely different.
+
+In America a stick is commonly called a cane, and it has about it
+something of the atmosphere which the poet described as the nice conduct
+of the clouded cane. It would be an exaggeration to say that when the
+citizens of the United States see a man carrying a light stick, they
+deduce that if he does that he does nothing else. But there is about it
+a faint flavour of luxury and lounging, and most of the energetic
+citizens of this energetic society avoid it by instinct.
+
+Now, in an Englishman like myself, carrying a stick may imply lounging,
+but it does not imply luxury, and I can say with some firmness that it
+does not imply dandyism. In a great many Englishmen it means the very
+opposite even of lounging. By one of those fantastic paradoxes which
+are the mystery of nationality, a walking stick often actually means
+walking. It frequently suggests the very reverse of the beau with his
+clouded cane; it does not suggest a town type, but rather specially a
+country type. It rather implies the kind of Englishman who tramps about
+in lanes and meadows and knocks the tops off thistles. It suggests the
+sort of man who has carried the stick through his native woods, and
+perhaps even cut it in his native woods.
+
+There are plenty of these vigorous loungers, no doubt, in the rural
+parts of America, but the idea of a walking stick would not especially
+suggest them to Americans; it would not call up such figures like a
+fairy wand. It would be easy to trace back the difference to many
+English origins, possibly to aristocratic origins, to the idea of the
+old squire, a man vigorous and even rustic, but trained to hold a
+useless staff rather than a useful tool. It might be suggested that
+American citizens do at least so far love freedom as to like to have
+their hands free. It might be suggested, on the other hand, that they
+keep their hands for the handles of many machines. And that the hand on
+a handle is less free than the hand on a stick or even a tool. But these
+again are controversial questions and I am only noting a fact.
+
+If an Englishman wished to imagine more or less exactly what the
+impression is, and how misleading it is, he could find something like a
+parallel in what he himself feels about a fur coat. When I first found
+myself among the crowds on the main floor of a New York hotel, my rather
+exaggerated impression of the luxury of the place was largely produced
+by the number of men in fur coats, and what we should consider rather
+ostentatious fur coats, with all the fur outside.
+
+Now an Englishman has a number of atmospheric but largely accidental
+associations in connection with a fur coat. I will not say that he
+thinks a man in a fur coat must be a wealthy and wicked man; but I do
+say that in his own ideal and perfect vision a wealthy and wicked man
+would wear a fur coat. Thus I had the sensation of standing in a surging
+mob of American millionaires, or even African millionaires; for the
+millionaires of Chicago must be like the Knights of the Round Table
+compared with the millionaires of Johannesburg.
+
+But, as a matter of fact, the man in the fur coat was not even an
+American millionaire, but simply an American. It did not signify luxury,
+but rather necessity, and even a harsh and almost heroic necessity.
+Orson probably wore a fur coat; and he was brought up by bears, but not
+the bears of Wall Street. Eskimos are generally represented as a furry
+folk; but they are not necessarily engaged in delicate financial
+operations, even in the typical and appropriate occupation called
+freezing out. And if the American is not exactly an arctic traveller
+rushing from pole to pole, at least he is often literally fleeing from
+ice to ice. He has to make a very extreme distinction between outdoor
+and indoor clothing. He has to live in an icehouse outside and a
+hothouse inside; so hot that he may be said to construct an icehouse
+inside that. He turns himself into an icehouse and warms himself against
+the cold until he is warm enough to eat ices. But the point is that the
+same coat of fur which in England would indicate the sybarite life may
+here very well indicate the strenuous life; just as the same walking
+stick which would here suggest a lounger would in England suggest a
+plodder and almost a pilgrim.
+
+And these two trifles are types which I should like to put, by way of
+proviso and apology, at the very beginning of any attempt at a record of
+any impressions of a foreign society. They serve merely to illustrate
+the most important impression of all, the impression of how false all
+impressions may be. I suspect that most of the very false impressions
+have come from the careful record of very true facts. They have come
+from the fatal power of observing the facts without being able to
+observe the truth. They came from seeing the symbol with the most vivid
+clarity and being blind to all that it symbolises. It is as if a man who
+knew no Greek should imagine that he could read a Greek inscription
+because he took the Greek R for an English P or the Greek long E for an
+English H. I do not mention this merely as a criticism on other people's
+impressions of America, but as a criticism on my own. I wish it to be
+understood that I am well aware that all my views are subject to this
+sort of potential criticism, and that even when I am certain of the
+facts I do not profess to be certain of the deductions.
+
+In this chapter I hope to point out how a misunderstanding of this kind
+affects the common impression, not altogether unfounded, that the
+Americans talk about dollars. But for the moment I am merely anxious to
+avoid a similar misunderstanding when I talk about Americans. About the
+dogmas of democracy, about the right of a people to its own symbols,
+whether they be coins or customs, I am convinced, and no longer to be
+shaken. But about the meaning of those symbols, in silver or other
+substances, I am always open to correction. That error is the price we
+pay for the great glory of nationality. And in this sense I am quite
+ready, at the start, to warn my own readers against my own opinions.
+
+The fact without the truth is futile; indeed the fact without the truth
+is false. I have already noted that this is especially true touching our
+observations of a strange country; and it is certainly true touching one
+small fact which has swelled into a large fable. I mean the fable about
+America commonly summed up in the phrase about the Almighty Dollar. I do
+not think the dollar is almighty in America; I fancy many things are
+mightier, including many ideals and some rather insane ideals. But I
+think it might be maintained that the dollar has another of the
+attributes of deity. If it is not omnipotent it is in a sense
+omnipresent. Whatever Americans think about dollars, it is, I think,
+relatively true that they talk about dollars. If a mere mechanical
+record could be taken by the modern machinery of dictaphones and
+stenography, I do not think it probable that the mere word 'dollars'
+would occur more often in any given number of American conversations
+than the mere word 'pounds' or 'shillings' in a similar number of
+English conversations. And these statistics, like nearly all statistics,
+would be utterly useless and even fundamentally false. It is as if we
+should calculate that the word 'elephant' had been mentioned a certain
+number of times in a particular London street, or so many times more
+often than the word 'thunderbolt' had been used in Stoke Poges.
+Doubtless there are statisticians capable of carefully collecting those
+statistics also; and doubtless there are scientific social reformers
+capable of legislating on the basis of them. They would probably argue
+from the elephantine imagery of the London street that such and such a
+percentage of the householders were megalomaniacs and required medical
+care and police coercion. And doubtless their calculations, like nearly
+all such calculations, would leave out the only important point; as that
+the street was in the immediate neighbourhood of the Zoo, or was yet
+more happily situated under the benignant shadow of the Elephant and
+Castle. And in the same way the mechanical calculation about the mention
+of dollars is entirely useless unless we have some moral understanding
+of why they are mentioned. It certainly does not mean merely a love of
+money; and if it did, a love of money may mean a great many very
+different and even contrary things. The love of money is very different
+in a peasant or in a pirate, in a miser or in a gambler, in a great
+financier or in a man doing some practical and productive work. Now this
+difference in the conversation of American and English business men
+arises, I think, from certain much deeper things in the American which
+are generally not understood by the Englishman. It also arises from much
+deeper things in the Englishman, of which the Englishman is even more
+ignorant.
+
+To begin with, I fancy that the American, quite apart from any love of
+money, has a great love of measurement. He will mention the exact size
+or weight of things, in a way which appears to us as irrelevant. It is
+as if we were to say that a man came to see us carrying three feet of
+walking stick and four inches of cigar. It is so in cases that have no
+possible connection with any avarice or greed for gain. An American will
+praise the prodigal generosity of some other man in giving up his own
+estate for the good of the poor. But he will generally say that the
+philanthropist gave them a 200-acre park, where an Englishman would
+think it quite sufficient to say that he gave them a park. There is
+something about this precision which seems suitable to the American
+atmosphere; to the hard sunlight, and the cloudless skies, and the
+glittering detail of the architecture and the landscape; just as the
+vaguer English version is consonant to our mistier and more
+impressionist scenery. It is also connected perhaps with something more
+boyish about the younger civilisation; and corresponds to the passionate
+particularity with which a boy will distinguish the uniforms of
+regiments, the rigs of ships, or even the colours of tram tickets. It is
+a certain godlike appetite for things, as distinct from thoughts.
+
+But there is also, of course, a much deeper cause of the difference; and
+it can easily be deduced by noting the real nature of the difference
+itself. When two business men in a train are talking about dollars I am
+not so foolish as to expect them to be talking about the philosophy of
+St. Thomas Aquinas. But if they were two English business men I should
+not expect them to be talking about business. Probably it would be about
+some sport; and most probably some sport in which they themselves never
+dreamed of indulging. The approximate difference is that the American
+talks about his work and the Englishman about his holidays. His ideal is
+not labour but leisure. Like every other national characteristic, this
+is not primarily a point for praise or blame; in essence it involves
+neither and in effect it involves both. It is certainly connected with
+that snobbishness which is the great sin of English society. The
+Englishman does love to conceive himself as a sort of country gentleman;
+and his castles in the air are all castles in Scotland rather than in
+Spain. For, as an ideal, a Scotch castle is as English as a Welsh
+rarebit or an Irish stew. And if he talks less about money I fear it is
+sometimes because in one sense he thinks more of it. Money is a mystery
+in the old and literal sense of something too sacred for speech. Gold is
+a god; and like the god of some agnostics has no name and is worshipped
+only in his works. It is true in a sense that the English gentleman
+wishes to have enough money to be able to forget it. But it may be
+questioned whether he does entirely forget it. As against this weakness
+the American has succeeded, at the price of a great deal of crudity and
+clatter, in making general a very real respect for work. He has partly
+disenchanted the dangerous glamour of the gentleman, and in that sense
+has achieved some degree of democracy; which is the most difficult
+achievement in the world.
+
+On the other hand, there is a good side to the Englishman's day-dream of
+leisure, and one which the American spirit tends to miss. It may be
+expressed in the word 'holiday' or still better in the word 'hobby.' The
+Englishman, in his character of Robin Hood, really has got two strings
+to his bow. Indeed the Englishman really is well represented by Robin
+Hood; for there is always something about him that may literally be
+called outlawed, in the sense of being extra-legal or outside the rules.
+A Frenchman said of Browning that his centre was not in the middle; and
+it may be said of many an Englishman that his heart is not where his
+treasure is. Browning expressed a very English sentiment when he said:--
+
+
+ I like to know a butcher paints,
+ A baker rhymes for his pursuit,
+ Candlestick-maker much acquaints
+ His soul with song, or haply mute
+ Blows out his brains upon the flute.
+
+
+Stevenson touched on the same insular sentiment when he said that many
+men he knew, who were meat-salesmen to the outward eye, might in the
+life of contemplation sit with the saints. Now the extraordinary
+achievement of the American meat-salesman is that his poetic enthusiasm
+can really be for meat sales; not for money but for meat. An American
+commercial traveller asked me, with a religious fire in his eyes,
+whether I did not think that salesmanship could be an art. In England
+there are many salesmen who are sincerely fond of art; but seldom of the
+art of salesmanship. Art is with them a hobby; a thing of leisure and
+liberty. That is why the English traveller talks, if not of art, then of
+sport. That is why the two city men in the London train, if they are not
+talking about golf, may be talking about gardening. If they are not
+talking about dollars, or the equivalent of dollars, the reason lies
+much deeper than any superficial praise or blame touching the desire for
+wealth. In the English case, at least, it lies very deep in the English
+spirit. Many of the greatest English things have had this lighter and
+looser character of a hobby or a holiday experiment. Even a masterpiece
+has often been a by-product. The works of Shakespeare come out so
+casually that they can be attributed to the most improbable people; even
+to Bacon. The sonnets of Shakespeare are picked up afterwards as if out
+of a wastepaper basket. The immortality of Dr. Johnson does not rest on
+the written leaves he collected, but entirely on the words he wasted,
+the words he scattered to the winds. So great a thing as Pickwick is
+almost a kind of accident; it began as something secondary and grew into
+something primary and pre-eminent. It began with mere words written to
+illustrate somebody else's pictures; and swelled like an epic expanded
+from an epigram. It might almost be said that in the case of Pickwick
+the author began as the servant of the artist. But, as in the same story
+of Pickwick, the servant became greater than the master. This
+incalculable and accidental quality, like all national qualities, has
+its strength and weakness; but it does represent a certain reserve fund
+of interests in the Englishman's life; and distinguishes him from the
+other extreme type, of the millionaire who works till he drops, or who
+drops because he stops working. It is the great achievement of American
+civilisation that in that country it really is not cant to talk about
+the dignity of labour. There is something that might almost be called
+the sanctity of labour; but it is subject to the profound law that when
+anything less than the highest becomes a sanctity, it tends also to
+become a superstition. When the candlestick-maker does not blow out his
+brains upon the flute there is always a danger that he may blow them out
+somewhere else, owing to depressed conditions in the candlestick market.
+
+Now certainly one of the first impressions of America, or at any rate
+of New York, which is by no means the same thing as America, is that of
+a sort of mob of business men, behaving in many ways in a fashion very
+different from that of the swarms of London city men who go up every day
+to the city. They sit about in groups with Red-Indian gravity, as if
+passing the pipe of peace; though, in fact, most of them are smoking
+cigars and some of them are eating cigars. The latter strikes me as one
+of the most peculiar of transatlantic tastes, more peculiar than that of
+chewing gum. A man will sit for hours consuming a cigar as if it were a
+sugar-stick; but I should imagine it to be a very disagreeable
+sugar-stick. Why he attempts to enjoy a cigar without lighting it I do
+not know; whether it is a more economical way of carrying a mere symbol
+of commercial conversation; or whether something of the same queer
+outlandish morality that draws such a distinction between beer and
+ginger beer draws an equally ethical distinction between touching
+tobacco and lighting it. For the rest, it would be easy to make a merely
+external sketch full of things equally strange; for this can always be
+done in a strange country. I allow for the fact of all foreigners
+looking alike; but I fancy that all those hard-featured faces, with
+spectacles and shaven jaws, do look rather alike, because they all like
+to make their faces hard. And with the mention of their mental attitude
+we realise the futility of any such external sketch. Unless we can see
+that these are something more than men smoking cigars and talking about
+dollars we had much better not see them at all.
+
+It is customary to condemn the American as a materialist because of his
+worship of success. But indeed this very worship, like any worship,
+even devil-worship, proves him rather a mystic than a materialist. The
+Frenchman who retires from business when he has money enough to drink
+his wine and eat his omelette in peace might much more plausibly be
+called a materialist by those who do not prefer to call him a man of
+sense. But Americans do worship success in the abstract, as a sort of
+ideal vision. They follow success rather than money; they follow money
+rather than meat and drink. If their national life in one sense is a
+perpetual game of poker, they are playing excitedly for chips or
+counters as well as for coins. And by the ultimate test of material
+enjoyment, like the enjoyment of an omelette, even a coin is itself a
+counter. The Yankee cannot eat chips as the Frenchman can eat chipped
+potatoes; but neither can he swallow red cents as the Frenchman swallows
+red wine. Thus when people say of a Yankee that he worships the dollar,
+they pay a compliment to his fine spirituality more true and delicate
+than they imagine. The dollar is an idol because it is an image; but it
+is an image of success and not of enjoyment.
+
+That this romance is also a religion is shown in the fact that there is
+a queer sort of morality attached to it. The nearest parallel to it is
+something like the sense of honour in the old duelling days. There is
+not a material but a distinctly moral savour about the implied
+obligation to collect dollars or to collect chips. We hear too much in
+England of the phrase about 'making good'; for no sensible Englishman
+favours the needless interlarding of English with scraps of foreign
+languages. But though it means nothing in English, it means something
+very particular in American. There is a fine shade of distinction
+between succeeding and making good, precisely because there must always
+be a sort of ethical echo in the word good. America does vaguely feel a
+man making good as something analogous to a man being good or a man
+doing good. It is connected with his serious self-respect and his sense
+of being worthy of those he loves. Nor is this curious crude idealism
+wholly insincere even when it drives him to what some of us would call
+stealing; any more than the duellist's honour was insincere when it
+drove him to what some would call murder. A very clever American play
+which I once saw acted contained a complete working model of this
+morality. A girl was loyal to, but distressed by, her engagement to a
+young man on whom there was a sort of cloud of humiliation. The
+atmosphere was exactly what it would have been in England if he had been
+accused of cowardice or card-sharping. And there was nothing whatever
+the matter with the poor young man except that some rotten mine or other
+in Arizona had not 'made good.' Now in England we should either be below
+or above that ideal of good. If we were snobs, we should be content to
+know that he was a gentleman of good connections, perhaps too much
+accustomed to private means to be expected to be businesslike. If we
+were somewhat larger-minded people, we should know that he might be as
+wise as Socrates and as splendid as Bayard and yet be unfitted, perhaps
+one should say therefore be unfitted, for the dismal and dirty gambling
+of modern commerce. But whether we were snobbish enough to admire him
+for being an idler, or chivalrous enough to admire him for being an
+outlaw, in neither case should we ever really and in our hearts despise
+him for being a failure. For it is this inner verdict of instinctive
+idealism that is the point at issue. Of course there is nothing new, or
+peculiar to the new world, about a man's engagement practically failing
+through his financial failure. An English girl might easily drop a man
+because he was poor, or she might stick to him faithfully and defiantly
+although he was poor. The point is that this girl was faithful but she
+was not defiant; that is, she was not proud. The whole psychology of the
+situation was that she shared the weird worldly idealism of her family,
+and it was wounded as her patriotism would have been wounded if he had
+betrayed his country. To do them justice, there was nothing to show that
+they would have had any real respect for a royal duke who had inherited
+millions; what the simple barbarians wanted was a man who could 'make
+good.' That the process of making good would probably drag him through
+the mire of everything bad, that he would make good by bluffing, lying,
+swindling, and grinding the faces of the poor, did not seem to trouble
+them in the least. Against this fanaticism there is this shadow of truth
+even in the fiction of aristocracy; that a gentleman may at least be
+allowed to be good without being bothered to make it.
+
+Another objection to the phrase about the almighty dollar is that it is
+an almighty phrase, and therefore an almighty nuisance. I mean that it
+is made to explain everything, and to explain everything much too well;
+that is, much too easily. It does not really help people to understand a
+foreign country; but it gives them the fatal illusion that they do
+understand it. Dollars stood for America as frogs stood for France;
+because it was necessary to connect particular foreigners with
+something, or it would be so easy to confuse a Moor with a Montenegrin
+or a Russian with a Red Indian. The only cure for this sort of satisfied
+familiarity is the shock of something really unfamiliar. When people can
+see nothing at all in American democracy except a Yankee running after a
+dollar, then the only thing to do is to trip them up as they run after
+the Yankee, or run away with their notion of the Yankee, by the obstacle
+of certain odd and obstinate facts that have no relation to that notion.
+And, as a matter of fact, there are a number of such obstacles to any
+such generalisation; a number of notable facts that have to be
+reconciled somehow to our previous notions. It does not matter for this
+purpose whether the facts are favourable or unfavourable, or whether the
+qualities are merits or defects; especially as we do not even understand
+them sufficiently to say which they are. The point is that we are
+brought to a pause, and compelled to attempt to understand them rather
+better than we do. We have found the one thing that we did not expect;
+and therefore the one thing that we cannot explain. And we are moved to
+an effort, probably an unsuccessful effort, to explain it.
+
+For instance, Americans are very unpunctual. That is the last thing that
+a critic expects who comes to condemn them for hustling and haggling and
+vulgar ambition. But it is almost the first fact that strikes the
+spectator on the spot. The chief difference between the humdrum English
+business man and the hustling American business man is that the hustling
+American business man is always late. Of course there is a great deal of
+difference between coming late and coming too late. But I noticed the
+fashion first in connection with my own lectures; touching which I
+could heartily recommend the habit of coming too late. I could easily
+understand a crowd of commercial Americans not coming to my lectures at
+all; but there was something odd about their coming in a crowd, and the
+crowd being expected to turn up some time after the appointed hour. The
+managers of these lectures (I continue to call them lectures out of
+courtesy to myself) often explained to me that it was quite useless to
+begin properly until about half an hour after time. Often people were
+still coming in three-quarters of an hour or even an hour after time.
+Not that I objected to that, as some lecturers are said to do; it seemed
+to me an agreeable break in the monotony; but as a characteristic of a
+people mostly engaged in practical business, it struck me as curious and
+interesting. I have grown accustomed to being the most unbusinesslike
+person in any given company; and it gave me a sort of dizzy exaltation
+to find I was not the most unpunctual person in that company. I was
+afterwards told by many Americans that my impression was quite correct;
+that American unpunctuality was really very prevalent, and extended to
+much more important things. But at least I was not content to lump this
+along with all sorts of contrary things that I did not happen to like,
+and call it America. I am not sure of what it really means, but I rather
+fancy that though it may seem the very reverse of the hustling, it has
+the same origin as the hustling. The American is not punctual because he
+is not punctilious. He is impulsive, and has an impulse to stay as well
+as an impulse to go. For, after all, punctuality belongs to the same
+order of ideas as punctuation; and there is no punctuation in
+telegrams. The order of clocks and set hours which English business has
+always observed is a good thing in its own way; indeed I think that in a
+larger sense it is better than the other way. But it is better because
+it is a protection against hustling, not a promotion of it. In other
+words, it is better because it is more civilised; as a great Venetian
+merchant prince clad in cloth of gold was more civilised; or an old
+English merchant drinking port in an oak-panelled room was more
+civilised; or a little French shopkeeper shutting up his shop to play
+dominoes is more civilised. And the reason is that the American has the
+romance of business and is monomaniac, while the Frenchman has the
+romance of life and is sane. But the romance of business really is a
+romance, and the Americans are really romantic about it. And that
+romance, though it revolves round pork or petrol, is really like a
+love-affair in this; that it involves not only rushing but also
+lingering.
+
+The American is too busy to have business habits. He is also too much in
+earnest to have business rules. If we wish to understand him, we must
+compare him not with the French shopkeeper when he plays dominoes, but
+with the same French shopkeeper when he works the guns or mans the
+trenches as a conscript soldier. Everybody used to the punctilious
+Prussian standard of uniform and parade has noticed the roughness and
+apparent laxity of the French soldier, the looseness of his clothes, the
+unsightliness of his heavy knapsack, in short his inferiority in every
+detail of the business of war except fighting. There he is much too
+swift to be smart. He is much too practical to be precise. By a strange
+illusion which can lift pork-packing almost to the level of patriotism,
+the American has the same free rhythm in his romance of business. He
+varies his conduct not to suit the clock but to suit the case. He gives
+more time to more important and less time to less important things; and
+he makes up his time-table as he goes along. Suppose he has three
+appointments; the first, let us say, is some mere trifle of erecting a
+tower twenty storeys high and exhibiting a sky-sign on the top of it;
+the second is a business discussion about the possibility of printing
+advertisements of soft drinks on the table-napkins at a restaurant; the
+third is attending a conference to decide how the populace can be
+prevented from using chewing-gum and the manufacturers can still manage
+to sell it. He will be content merely to glance at the sky-sign as he
+goes by in a trolley-car or an automobile; he will then settle down to
+the discussion with his partner about the table-napkins, each speaker
+indulging in long monologues in turn; a peculiarity of much American
+conversation. Now if in the middle of one of these monologues, he
+suddenly thinks that the vacant space of the waiter's shirt-front might
+also be utilised to advertise the Gee Whiz Ginger Champagne, he will
+instantly follow up the new idea in all its aspects and possibilities,
+in an even longer monologue; and will never think of looking at his
+watch while he is rapturously looking at his waiter. The consequence is
+that he will come late into the great social movement against
+chewing-gum, where an Englishman would probably have arrived at the
+proper hour. But though the Englishman's conduct is more proper, it need
+not be in all respects more practical. The Englishman's rules are better
+for the business of life, but not necessarily for the life of business.
+And it is true that for many of these Americans business is the
+business of life. It is really also, as I have said, the romance of
+life. We shall admire or deplore this spirit, accordingly as we are glad
+to see trade irradiated with so much poetry, or sorry to see so much
+poetry wasted on trade. But it does make many people happy, like any
+other hobby; and one is disposed to add that it does fill their
+imaginations like any other delusion. For the true criticism of all this
+commercial romance would involve a criticism of this historic phase of
+commerce. These people are building on the sand, though it shines like
+gold, and for them like fairy gold; but the world will remember the
+legend about fairy gold. Half the financial operations they follow deal
+with things that do not even exist; for in that sense all finance is a
+fairy tale. Many of them are buying and selling things that do nothing
+but harm; but it does them good to buy and sell them. The claim of the
+romantic salesman is better justified than he realises. Business really
+is romance; for it is not reality.
+
+There is one real advantage that America has over England, largely due
+to its livelier and more impressionable ideal. America does not think
+that stupidity is practical. It does not think that ideas are merely
+destructive things. It does not think that a genius is only a person to
+be told to go away and blow his brains out; rather it would open all its
+machinery to the genius and beg him to blow his brains in. It might
+attempt to use a natural force like Blake or Shelley for very ignoble
+purposes; it would be quite capable of asking Blake to take his tiger
+and his golden lions round as a sort of Barnum's Show, or Shelley to
+hang his stars and haloed clouds among the lights of Broadway. But it
+would not assume that a natural force is useless, any more than that
+Niagara is useless. And there is a very definite distinction here
+touching the intelligence of the trader, whatever we may think of either
+course touching the intelligence of the artist. It is one thing that
+Apollo should be employed by Admetus, although he is a god. It is quite
+another thing that Apollo should always be sacked by Admetus, because he
+is a god. Now in England, largely owing to the accident of a rivalry and
+therefore a comparison with France, there arose about the end of the
+eighteenth century an extraordinary notion that there was some sort of
+connection between dullness and success. What the Americans call a
+bonehead became what the English call a hard-headed man. The merchants
+of London evinced their contempt for the fantastic logicians of Paris by
+living in a permanent state of terror lest somebody should set the
+Thames on fire. In this as in much else it is much easier to understand
+the Americans if we connect them with the French who were their allies
+than with the English who were their enemies. There are a great many
+Franco-American resemblances which the practical Anglo-Saxons are of
+course too hard-headed (or boneheaded) to see. American history is
+haunted with the shadow of the Plebiscitary President; they have a
+tradition of classical architecture for public buildings. Their cities
+are planned upon the squares of Paris and not upon the labyrinth of
+London. They call their cities Corinth and Syracuse, as the French
+called their citizens Epaminondas and Timoleon. Their soldiers wore the
+French kepi; and they make coffee admirably, and do not make tea at all.
+But of all the French elements in America the most French is this real
+practicality. They know that at certain times the most businesslike of
+all qualities is 'l'audace, et encore de l'audace, et toujours de
+l'audace.' The publisher may induce the poet to do a pot-boiler; but the
+publisher would cheerfully allow the poet to set the Mississippi on
+fire, if it would boil his particular pot. It is not so much that
+Englishmen are stupid as that they are afraid of being clever; and it is
+not so much that Americans are clever as that they do not try to be any
+stupider than they are. The fire of French logic has burnt that out of
+America as it has burnt it out of Europe, and of almost every place
+except England. This is one of the few points on which English
+insularity really is a disadvantage. It is the fatal notion that the
+only sort of commonsense is to be found in compromise, and that the only
+sort of compromise is to be found in confusion. This must be clearly
+distinguished from the commonplace about the utilitarian world not
+rising to the invisible values of genius. Under this philosophy the
+utilitarian does not see the utility of genius, even when it is quite
+visible. He does not see it, not because he is a utilitarian, but
+because he is an idealist whose ideal is dullness. For some time the
+English aspired to be stupid, prayed and hoped with soaring spiritual
+ambition to be stupid. But with all their worship of success, they did
+not succeed in being stupid. The natural talents of a great and
+traditional nation were always breaking out in spite of them. In spite
+of the merchants of London, Turner did set the Thames on fire. In spite
+of our repeatedly explained preference for realism to romance, Europe
+persisted in resounding with the name of Byron. And just when we had
+made it perfectly clear to the French that we despised all their
+flamboyant tricks, that we were a plain prosaic people and there was no
+fantastic glory or chivalry about us, the very shaft we sent against
+them shone with the name of Nelson, a shooting and a falling star.
+
+
+
+
+_Presidents and Problems_
+
+
+All good Americans wish to fight the representatives they have chosen.
+All good Englishmen wish to forget the representatives they have chosen.
+This difference, deep and perhaps ineradicable in the temperaments of
+the two peoples, explains a thousand things in their literature and
+their laws. The American national poet praised his people for their
+readiness 'to _rise_ against the never-ending audacity of elected
+persons.' The English national anthem is content to say heartily, but
+almost hastily, 'Confound their politics,' and then more cheerfully, as
+if changing the subject, 'God Save the King.' For this is especially the
+secret of the monarch or chief magistrate in the two countries. They arm
+the President with the powers of a King, that he may be a nuisance in
+politics. We deprive the King even of the powers of a President, lest he
+should remind us of a politician. We desire to forget the never-ending
+audacity of elected persons; and with us therefore it really never does
+end. That is the practical objection to our own habit of changing the
+subject, instead of changing the ministry. The King, as the Irish wit
+observed, is not a subject; but in that sense the English crowned head
+is not a King. He is a popular figure intended to remind us of the
+England that politicians do not remember; the England of horses and
+ships and gardens and good fellowship. The Americans have no such
+purely social symbol; and it is rather the root than the result of this
+that their social luxury, and especially their sport, are a little
+lacking in humanity and humour. It is the American, much more than the
+Englishman, who takes his pleasures sadly, not to say savagely.
+
+The genuine popularity of constitutional monarchs, in parliamentary
+countries, can be explained by any practical example. Let us suppose
+that great social reform, The Compulsory Haircutting Act, has just begun
+to be enforced. The Compulsory Haircutting Act, as every good citizen
+knows, is a statute which permits any person to grow his hair to any
+length, in any wild or wonderful shape, so long as he is registered with
+a hairdresser who charges a shilling. But it imposes a universal
+close-shave (like that which is found so hygienic during a curative
+detention at Dartmoor) on all who are registered only with a barber who
+charges threepence. Thus, while the ornamental classes can continue to
+ornament the street with Piccadilly weepers or chin-beards if they
+choose, the working classes demonstrate the care with which the State
+protects them by going about in a fresher, cooler, and cleaner
+condition; a condition which has the further advantage of revealing at a
+glance that outline of the criminal skull, which is so common among
+them. The Compulsory Haircutting Act is thus in every way a compact and
+convenient example of all our current laws about education, sport,
+liquor and liberty in general. Well, the law has passed and the masses,
+insensible to its scientific value, are still murmuring against it. The
+ignorant peasant maiden is averse to so extreme a fashion of bobbing her
+hair; and does not see how she can even be a flapper with nothing to
+flap. Her father, his mind already poisoned by Bolshevists, begins to
+wonder who the devil does these things, and why. In proportion as he
+knows the world of to-day, he guesses that the real origin may be quite
+obscure, or the real motive quite corrupt. The pressure may have come
+from anybody who has gained power or money anyhow. It may come from the
+foreign millionaire who owns all the expensive hairdressing saloons; it
+may come from some swindler in the cutlery trade who has contracted to
+sell a million bad razors. Hence the poor man looks about him with
+suspicion in the street; knowing that the lowest sneak or the loudest
+snob he sees may be directing the government of his country. Anybody may
+have to do with politics; and this sort of thing is politics. Suddenly
+he catches sight of a crowd, stops, and begins wildly to cheer a
+carriage that is passing. The carriage contains the one person who has
+certainly not originated any great scientific reform. He is the only
+person in the commonwealth who is not allowed to cut off other people's
+hair, or to take away other people's liberties. He at least is kept out
+of politics; and men hold him up as they did an unspotted victim to
+appease the wrath of the gods. He is their King, and the only man they
+know is not their ruler. We need not be surprised that he is popular,
+knowing how they are ruled.
+
+The popularity of a President in America is exactly the opposite. The
+American Republic is the last mediaeval monarchy. It is intended that
+the President shall rule, and take all the risks of ruling. If the hair
+is cut he is the haircutter, the magistrate that bears not the razor in
+vain. All the popular Presidents, Jackson and Lincoln and Roosevelt,
+have acted as democratic despots, but emphatically not as
+constitutional monarchs. In short, the names have become curiously
+interchanged; and as a historical reality it is the President who ought
+to be called a King.
+
+But it is not only true that the President could correctly be called a
+King. It is also true that the King might correctly be called a
+President. We could hardly find a more exact description of him than to
+call him a President. What is expected in modern times of a modern
+constitutional monarch is emphatically that he should preside. We expect
+him to take the throne exactly as if he were taking the chair. The
+chairman does not move the motion or resolution, far less vote it; he is
+not supposed even to favour it. He is expected to please everybody by
+favouring nobody. The primary essentials of a President or Chairman are
+that he should be treated with ceremonial respect, that he should be
+popular in his personality and yet impersonal in his opinions, and that
+he should actually be a link between all the other persons by being
+different from all of them. This is exactly what is demanded of the
+constitutional monarch in modern times. It is exactly the opposite to
+the American position; in which the President does not preside at all.
+He moves; and the thing he moves may truly be called a motion; for the
+national idea is perpetual motion. Technically it is called a message;
+and might often actually be called a menace. Thus we may truly say that
+the King presides and the President reigns. Some would prefer to say
+that the President rules; and some Senators and members of Congress
+would prefer to say that he rebels. But there is no doubt that he moves;
+he does not take the chair or even the stool, but rather the stump.
+
+Some people seem to suppose that the fall of President Wilson was a
+denial of this almost despotic ideal in America. As a matter of fact it
+was the strongest possible assertion of it. The idea is that the
+President shall take responsibility and risk; and responsibility means
+being blamed, and risk means the risk of being blamed. The theory is
+that things are done by the President; and if things go wrong, or are
+alleged to go wrong, it is the fault of the President. This does not
+invalidate, but rather ratifies the comparison with true monarchs such
+as the mediaeval monarchs. Constitutional princes are seldom deposed;
+but despots were often deposed. In the simpler races of sunnier lands,
+such as Turkey, they were commonly assassinated. Even in our own history
+a King often received the same respectful tribute to the responsibility
+and reality of his office. But King John was attacked because he was
+strong, not because he was weak. Richard the Second lost the crown
+because the crown was a trophy, not because it was a trifle. And
+President Wilson was deposed because he had used a power which is such,
+in its nature, that a man must use it at the risk of deposition. As a
+matter of fact, of course, it is easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+unpopularity, and still more easy to exaggerate Mr. Wilson's real
+failure. There are a great many people in America who justify and
+applaud him; and what is yet more interesting, who justify him not on
+pacifist and idealistic, but on patriotic and even military grounds. It
+is especially insisted by some that his demonstration, which seemed
+futile as a threat against Mexico, was a very far-sighted preparation
+for the threat against Prussia. But in so far as the democracy did
+disagree with him, it was but the occasional and inevitable result of
+the theory by which the despot has to anticipate the democracy.
+
+Thus the American King and the English President are the very opposite
+of each other; yet they are both the varied and very national
+indications of the same contemporary truth. It is the great weariness
+and contempt that have fallen upon common politics in both countries. It
+may be answered, with some show of truth, that the new American
+President represents a return to common politics; and that in that sense
+he marks a real rebuke to the last President and his more uncommon
+politics. And it is true that many who put Mr. Harding in power regard
+him as the symbol of something which they call normalcy; which may
+roughly be translated into English by the word normality. And by this
+they do mean, more or less, the return to the vague capitalist
+conservatism of the nineteenth century. They might call Mr. Harding a
+Victorian if they had ever lived under Victoria. Perhaps these people do
+entertain the extraordinary notion that the nineteenth century was
+normal. But there are very few who think so, and even they will not
+think so long. The blunder is the beginning of nearly all our present
+troubles. The nineteenth century was the very reverse of normal. It
+suffered a most unnatural strain in the combination of political
+equality in theory with extreme economic inequality in practice.
+Capitalism was not a normalcy but an abnormalcy. Property is normal, and
+is more normal in proportion as it is universal. Slavery may be normal
+and even natural, in the sense that a bad habit may be second nature.
+But Capitalism was never anything so human as a habit; we may say it was
+never anything so good as a bad habit. It was never a custom; for men
+never grew accustomed to it. It was never even conservative; for before
+it was even created wise men had realised that it could not be
+conserved. It was from the first a problem; and those who will not even
+admit the Capitalist problem deserve to get the Bolshevist solution. All
+things considered, I cannot say anything worse of them than that.
+
+The recent Presidential election preserved some trace of the old Party
+System of America; but its tradition has very nearly faded like that of
+the Party System of England. It is easy for an Englishman to confess
+that he never quite understood the American Party System. It would
+perhaps be more courageous in him, and more informing, to confess that
+he never really understood the British Party System. The planks in the
+two American platforms may easily be exhibited as very disconnected and
+ramshackle; but our own party was as much of a patchwork, and indeed I
+think even more so. Everybody knows that the two American factions were
+called 'Democrat' and 'Republican.' It does not at all cover the case to
+identify the former with Liberals and the latter with Conservatives. The
+Democrats are the party of the South and have some true tradition from
+the Southern aristocracy and the defence of Secession and State Rights.
+The Republicans rose in the North as the party of Lincoln, largely
+condemning slavery. But the Republicans are also the party of Tariffs,
+and are at least accused of being the party of Trusts. The Democrats are
+the party of Free Trade; and in the great movement of twenty years ago
+the party of Free Silver. The Democrats are also the party of the Irish;
+and the stones they throw at Trusts are retorted by stones thrown at
+Tammany. It is easy to see all these things as curiously sporadic and
+bewildering; but I am inclined to think that they are as a whole more
+coherent and rational than our own old division of Liberals and
+Conservatives. There is even more doubt nowadays about what is the
+connecting link between the different items in the old British party
+programmes. I have never been able to understand why being in favour of
+Protection should have anything to do with being opposed to Home Rule;
+especially as most of the people who were to receive Home Rule were
+themselves in favour of Protection. I could never see what giving people
+cheap bread had to do with forbidding them cheap beer; or why the party
+which sympathises with Ireland cannot sympathise with Poland. I cannot
+see why Liberals did not liberate public-houses or Conservatives
+conserve crofters. I do not understand the principle upon which the
+causes were selected on both sides; and I incline to think that it was
+with the impartial object of distributing nonsense equally on both
+sides. Heaven knows there is enough nonsense in American politics too;
+towering and tropical nonsense like a cyclone or an earthquake. But when
+all is said, I incline to think that there was more spiritual and
+atmospheric cohesion in the different parts of the American party than
+in those of the English party; and I think this unity was all the more
+real because it was more difficult to define. The Republican party
+originally stood for the triumph of the North, and the North stood for
+the nineteenth century; that is for the characteristic commercial
+expansion of the nineteenth century; for a firm faith in the profit and
+progress of its great and growing cities, its division of labour, its
+industrial science, and its evolutionary reform. The Democratic party
+stood more loosely for all the elements that doubted whether this
+development was democratic or was desirable; all that looked back to
+Jeffersonian idealism and the serene abstractions of the eighteenth
+century, or forward to Bryanite idealism and some simplified Utopia
+founded on grain rather than gold. Along with this went, not at all
+unnaturally, the last and lingering sentiment of the Southern squires,
+who remembered a more rural civilisation that seemed by comparison
+romantic. Along with this went, quite logically, the passions and the
+pathos of the Irish, themselves a rural civilisation, whose basis is a
+religion or what the nineteenth century tended to call a superstition.
+Above all, it was perfectly natural that this tone of thought should
+favour local liberties, and even a revolt on behalf of local liberties,
+and should distrust the huge machine of centralised power called the
+Union. In short, something very near the truth was said by a suicidally
+silly Republican orator, who was running Blaine for the Presidency, when
+he denounced the Democratic party as supported by 'Rome, rum, and
+rebellion.' They seem to me to be three excellent things in their place;
+and that is why I suspect that I should have belonged to the Democratic
+party, if I had been born in America when there was a Democratic party.
+But I fancy that by this time even this general distinction has become
+very dim. If I had been an American twenty years ago, in the time of the
+great Free Silver campaign, I should certainly never have hesitated for
+an instant about my sympathies or my side. My feelings would have been
+exactly those that are nobly expressed by Mr. Vachell Lindsay, in a poem
+bearing the characteristic title of 'Bryan, Bryan, Bryan, Bryan.' And,
+by the way, nobody can begin to sympathise with America whose soul does
+not to some extent begin to swing and dance to the drums and gongs of
+Mr. Vachell Lindsay's great orchestra; which has the note of his whole
+nation in this: that a refined person can revile it a hundred times over
+as violent and brazen and barbarous and absurd, but not as insincere;
+there is something in it, and that something is the soul of many million
+men. But the poet himself, in the political poem referred to, speaks of
+Bryan's fall over Free Silver as 'defeat of my boyhood, defeat of my
+dream'; and it is only too probable that the cause has fallen as well as
+the candidate. The William Jennings Bryan of later years is not the man
+whom I should have seen in my youth, with the visionary eyes of Mr.
+Vachell Lindsay. He has become a commonplace Pacifist, which is in its
+nature the very opposite of a revolutionist; for if men will fight
+rather than sacrifice humanity on a golden cross, it cannot be wrong for
+them to resist its being sacrificed to an iron cross. I came into very
+indirect contact with Mr. Bryan when I was in America, in a fashion that
+made me realise how hard it has become to recover the illusions of a
+Bryanite. I believe that my lecture agent was anxious to arrange a
+debate, and I threw out a sort of loose challenge to the effect that
+woman's suffrage had weakened the position of woman; and while I was
+away in the wilds of Oklahoma my lecture agent (a man of blood-curdling
+courage and enterprise) asked Mr. Bryan to debate with me. Now Mr. Bryan
+is one of the greatest orators of modern history, and there is no
+conceivable reason why he should trouble to debate with a wandering
+lecturer. But as a matter of fact he expressed himself in the most
+magnanimous and courteous terms about my personal position, but said (as
+I understood) that it would be improper to debate on female suffrage as
+it was already a part of the political system. And when I heard that, I
+could not help a sigh; for I recognised something that I knew only too
+well on the front benches of my own beloved land. The great and glorious
+demagogue had degenerated into a statesman. I had never expected for a
+moment that the great orator could be bothered to debate with me at all;
+but it had never occurred to me, as a general moral principle, that two
+educated men were for ever forbidden to talk sense about a particular
+topic, because a lot of other people had already voted on it. What is
+the matter with that attitude is the loss of the freedom of the mind.
+There can be no liberty of thought unless it is ready to unsettle what
+has recently been settled, as well as what has long been settled. We are
+perpetually being told in the papers that what is wanted is a strong man
+who will do things. What is wanted is a strong man who will undo things;
+and that will be a real test of strength.
+
+Anyhow, we could have believed, in the time of the Free Silver fight,
+that the Democratic party was democratic with a small d. In Mr. Wilson
+it was transfigured, his friends would say into a higher and his foes
+into a hazier thing. And the Republican reaction against him, even where
+it has been healthy, has also been hazy. In fact, it has been not so
+much the victory of a political party as a relapse into repose after
+certain political passions; and in that sense there is a truth in the
+strange phrase about normalcy; in the sense that there is nothing more
+normal than going to sleep. But an even larger truth is this; it is most
+likely that America is no longer concentrated on these faction fights at
+all, but is considering certain large problems upon which those factions
+hardly troubled to take sides. They are too large even to be classified
+as foreign policy distinct from domestic policy. They are so large as to
+be inside as well as outside the state. From an English standpoint the
+most obvious example is the Irish; for the Irish problem is not a
+British problem, but also an American problem. And this is true even of
+the great external enigma of Japan. The Japanese question may be a part
+of foreign policy for America, but it is a part of domestic policy for
+California. And the same is true of that other intense and intelligent
+Eastern people, the genius and limitations of which have troubled the
+world so much longer. What the Japs are in California, the Jews are in
+America. That is, they are a piece of foreign policy that has become
+imbedded in domestic policy; something which is found inside but still
+has to be regarded from the outside. On these great international
+matters I doubt if Americans got much guidance from their party system;
+especially as most of these questions have grown very recently and
+rapidly to enormous size. Men are left free to judge of them with fresh
+minds. And that is the truth in the statement that the Washington
+Conference has opened the gates of a new world.
+
+On the relations to England and Ireland I will not attempt to dwell
+adequately here. I have already noted that my first interview was with
+an Irishman, and my first impression from that interview a vivid sense
+of the importance of Ireland in Anglo-American relations; and I have
+said something of the Irish problem, prematurely and out of its proper
+order, under the stress of that sense of urgency. Here I will only add
+two remarks about the two countries respectively. A great many British
+journalists have recently imagined that they were pouring oil upon the
+troubled waters, when they were rather pouring out oil to smooth the
+downward path; and to turn the broad road to destruction into a
+butter-slide. They seem to have no notion of what to do, except to say
+what they imagine the very stupidest of their readers would be pleased
+to hear, and conceal whatever the most intelligent of their readers
+would probably like to know. They therefore informed the public that
+'the majority of Americans' had abandoned all sympathy with Ireland,
+because of its alleged sympathy with Germany; and that this majority of
+Americans was now ardently in sympathy with its English brothers across
+the sea. Now to begin with, such critics have no notion of what they are
+saying when they talk about the majority of Americans. To anybody who
+has happened to look in, let us say, on the city of Omaha, Nebraska, the
+remark will have something enormous and overwhelming about it. It is
+like saying that the majority of the inhabitants of China would agree
+with the Chinese Ambassador in a preference for dining at the Savoy
+rather than the Ritz. There are millions and millions of people living
+in those great central plains of the North American Continent of whom
+it would be nearer the truth to say that they have never heard of
+England, or of Ireland either, than to say that their first emotional
+movement is a desire to come to the rescue of either of them. It is
+perfectly true that the more monomaniac sort of Sinn Feiner might
+sometimes irritate this innocent and isolated American spirit by being
+pro-Irish. It is equally true that a traditional Bostonian or Virginian
+might irritate it by being pro-English. The only difference is that
+large numbers of pure Irishmen are scattered in those far places, and
+large numbers of pure Englishmen are not. But it is truest of all to say
+that neither England nor Ireland so much as crosses the mind of most of
+them once in six months. Painting up large notices of 'Watch Us Grow,'
+making money by farming with machinery, together with an occasional
+hold-up with six-shooters and photographs of a beautiful murderess or
+divorcee, fill up the round of their good and happy lives, and fleet the
+time carelessly as in the golden age.
+
+But putting aside all this vast and distant democracy, which is the real
+'majority of Americans,' and confining ourselves to that older culture
+on the eastern coast which the critics probably had in mind, we shall
+find the case more comforting but not to be covered with cheap and false
+comfort. Now it is perfectly true that any Englishman coming to this
+eastern coast, as I did, finds himself not only most warmly welcomed as
+a guest, but most cordially complimented as an Englishman. Men recall
+with pride the branches of their family that belong to England or the
+English counties where they were rooted; and there are enthusiasms for
+English literature and history which are as spontaneous as patriotism
+itself. Something of this may be put down to a certain promptitude and
+flexibility in all American kindness, which is never sufficiently stodgy
+to be called good nature. The Englishman does sometimes wonder whether
+if he had been a Russian, his hosts would not have remembered remote
+Russian aunts and uncles and disinterred a Muscovite great-grandmother;
+or whether if he had come from Iceland, they would not have known as
+much about Icelandic sagas and been as sympathetic about the absence of
+Icelandic snakes. But with a fair review of the proportions of the case
+he will dismiss this conjecture, and come to the conclusion that a
+number of educated Americans are very warmly and sincerely sympathetic
+with England.
+
+What I began to feel, with a certain creeping chill, was that they were
+only too sympathetic with England. The word sympathetic has sometimes
+rather a double sense. The impression I received was that all these
+chivalrous Southerners and men mellow with Bostonian memories were
+_rallying_ to England. They were on the defensive; and it was poor old
+England that they were defending. Their attitude implied that somebody
+or something was leaving her undefended, or finding her indefensible.
+The burden of that hearty chorus was that England was not so black as
+she was painted; it seemed clear that somewhere or other she was being
+painted pretty black. But there was something else that made me
+uncomfortable; it was not only the sense of being somewhat boisterously
+forgiven; it was also something involving questions of power as well as
+morality. Then it seemed to me that a new sensation turned me hot and
+cold; and I felt something I have never before felt in a foreign land.
+Never had my father or my grandfather known that sensation; never during
+the great and complex and perhaps perilous expansion of our power and
+commerce in the last hundred years had an Englishman heard exactly that
+note in a human voice. England was being _pitied_. I, as an Englishman,
+was not only being pardoned but pitied. My country was beginning to be
+an object of compassion, like Poland or Spain. My first emotion, full of
+the mood and movement of a hundred years, was one of furious anger. But
+the anger has given place to anxiety; and the anxiety is not yet at an
+end.
+
+It is not my business here to expound my view of English politics, still
+less of European politics or the politics of the world; but to put down
+a few impressions of American travel. On many points of European
+politics the impression will be purely negative; I am sure that most
+Americans have no notion of the position of France or the position of
+Poland. But if English readers want the truth, I am sure this is the
+truth about their notion of the position of England. They are wondering,
+or those who are watching are wondering, whether the term of her success
+is come and she is going down the dark road after Prussia. Many are
+sorry if this is so; some are glad if it is so; but all are seriously
+considering the probability of its being so. And herein lay especially
+the horrible folly of our Black-and-Tan terrorism over the Irish people.
+I have noted that the newspapers told us that America had been chilled
+in its Irish sympathies by Irish detachment during the war. It is the
+painful truth that any advantage we might have had from this we
+ourselves immediately proceeded to destroy. Ireland _might_ have put
+herself wrong with America by her attitude about Belgium, if England had
+not instantly proceeded to put herself more wrong by her attitude
+towards Ireland. It is quite true that two blacks do not make a white;
+but you cannot send a black to reproach people with tolerating
+blackness; and this is quite as true when one is a Black Brunswicker and
+the other a Black-and-Tan. It is true that since then England has made
+surprisingly sweeping concessions; concessions so large as to increase
+the amazement that the refusal should have been so long. But
+unfortunately the combination of the two rather clinches the conception
+of our decline. If the concession had come before the terror, it would
+have looked like an attempt to emancipate, and would probably have
+succeeded. Coming so abruptly after the terror, it looked only like an
+attempt to tyrannise, and an attempt that failed. It was partly an
+inheritance from a stupid tradition, which tried to combine what it
+called firmness with what it called conciliation; as if when we made up
+our minds to soothe a man with a five-pound note, we always took care to
+undo our own action by giving him a kick as well. The English politician
+has often done that; though there is nothing to be said of such a fool,
+except that he has wasted a fiver. But in this case he gave the kick
+first, received a kicking in return, and _then_ gave up the money; and
+it was hard for the bystanders to say anything except that he had been
+badly beaten. The combination and sequence of events seems almost as if
+it were arranged to suggest the dark and ominous parallel. The first
+action looked only too like the invasion of Belgium, and the second like
+the evacuation of Belgium. So that vast and silent crowd in the West
+looked at the British Empire, as men look at a great tower that has
+begun to lean. Thus it was that while I found real pleasure, I could not
+find unrelieved consolation in the sincere compliments paid to my
+country by so many cultivated Americans; their memories of homely
+corners of historic counties from which their fathers came, of the
+cathedral that dwarfs the town, or the inn at the turning of the road.
+There was something in their voices and the look in their eyes which
+from the first disturbed me. So I have heard good Englishmen, who died
+afterwards the death of soldiers, cry aloud in 1914, 'It seems
+impossible, of those jolly Bavarians!' or, 'I will never believe it,
+when I think of the time I had at Heidelberg!'
+
+But there are other things besides the parallel of Prussia or the
+problem of Ireland. The American press is much freer than our own; the
+American public is much more familiar with the discussion of corruption
+than our own; and it is much more conscious of the corruption of our
+politics than we are. Almost any man in America may speak of the Marconi
+Case; many a man in England does not even know what it means. Many
+imagine that it had something to do with the propriety of politicians
+speculating on the Stock Exchange. So that it means a great deal to
+Americans to say that one figure in that drama is ruling India and
+another is ruling Palestine. And this brings me to another problem,
+which is also dealt with much more openly in America than in England. I
+mention it here only because it is a perfect model of the
+misunderstandings in the modern world. If any one asks for an example
+of exactly how the important part of every story is left out, and even
+the part that is reported is not understood, he could hardly have a
+stronger case than the story of Henry Ford of Detroit.
+
+When I was in Detroit I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Ford, and it
+really was a pleasure. He is a man quite capable of views which I think
+silly to the point of insanity; but he is not the vulgar benevolent
+boss. It must be admitted that he is a millionaire; but he cannot really
+be convicted of being a philanthropist. He is not a man who merely wants
+to run people; it is rather his views that run him, and perhaps run away
+with him. He has a distinguished and sensitive face; he really invented
+things himself, unlike most men who profit by inventions; he is
+something of an artist and not a little of a fighter. A man of that type
+is always capable of being wildly wrong, especially in the sectarian
+atmosphere of America; and Mr. Ford has been wrong before and may be
+wrong now. He is chiefly known in England for a project which I think
+very preposterous; that of the Peace Ship, which came to Europe during
+the war. But he is not known in England at all in connection with a much
+more important campaign, which he has conducted much more recently and
+with much more success; a campaign against the Jews like one of the
+Anti-Semitic campaigns of the Continent. Now any one who knows anything
+of America knows exactly what the Peace Ship would be like. It was a
+national combination of imagination and ignorance, which has at least
+some of the beauty of innocence. Men living in those huge, hedgeless
+inland plains know nothing about frontiers or the tragedy of a fight for
+freedom; they know nothing of alarum and armaments or the peril of a
+high civilisation poised like a precious statue within reach of a mailed
+fist. They are accustomed to a cosmopolitan citizenship, in which men of
+all bloods mingle and in which men of all creeds are counted equal.
+Their highest moral boast is humanitarianism; their highest mental boast
+is enlightenment. In a word, they are the very last men in the world who
+would seem likely to pride themselves on a prejudice against the Jews.
+They have no religion in particular, except a sincere sentiment which
+they would call 'true Christianity,' and which specially forbids an
+attack on the Jews. They have a patriotism which prides itself on
+assimilating all types, including the Jews. Mr. Ford is a pure product
+of this pacific world, as was sufficiently proved by his pacifism. If a
+man of that sort has discovered that there is a Jewish problem, it is
+because there is a Jewish problem. It is certainly not because there is
+an Anti-Jewish prejudice. For if there had been any amount of such
+racial and religious prejudice, he would have been about the very last
+sort of man to have it. His particular part of the world would have been
+the very last place to produce it. We may well laugh at the Peace Ship,
+and its wild course and inevitable shipwreck; but remember that its very
+wildness was an attempt to sail as far as possible from the castle of
+Front-de-Boeuf. Everything that made him Anti-War should have
+prevented him from being Anti-Semite. We may mock him for being mad on
+peace; but we cannot say that he was so mad on peace that he made war on
+Israel.
+
+It happened that, when I was in America, I had just published some
+studies on Palestine; and I was besieged by Rabbis lamenting my
+'prejudice.' I pointed out that they would have got hold of the wrong
+word, even if they had not got hold of the wrong man. As a point of
+personal autobiography, I do not happen to be a man who dislikes Jews;
+though I believe that some men do. I have had Jews among my most
+intimate and faithful friends since my boyhood, and I hope to have them
+till I die. But even if I did have a dislike of Jews, it would be
+illogical to call that dislike a prejudice. Prejudice is a very lucid
+Latin word meaning the bias which a man has before he considers a case.
+I might be said to be prejudiced against a Hairy Ainu because of his
+name, for I have never been on terms of such intimacy with him as to
+correct my preconceptions. But if after moving about in the modern world
+and meeting Jews, knowing Jews, doing business with Jews, and reading
+and hearing about Jews, I came to the conclusion that I did not like
+Jews, my conclusion certainly would not be a prejudice. It would simply
+be an opinion; and one I should be perfectly entitled to hold; though as
+a matter of fact I do not hold it. No extravagance of hatred merely
+following on _experience_ of Jews can properly be called a prejudice.
+
+Now the point is that this new American Anti-Semitism springs from
+experience and nothing but experience. There is no prejudice for it to
+spring from. Or rather the prejudice is all the other way. All the
+traditions of that democracy, and very creditable traditions too, are in
+favour of toleration and a sort of idealistic indifference. The
+sympathies in which these nineteenth-century people were reared were all
+against Front-de-Boeuf and in favour of Rebecca. They inherited a
+prejudice against Anti-Semitism; a prejudice of Anti-Anti-Semitism.
+These people of the plains have found the Jewish problem exactly as they
+might have struck oil; because it is _there_, and not even because they
+were looking for it. Their view of the problem, like their use of the
+oil, is not always satisfactory; and with parts of it I entirely
+disagree. But the point is that the thing which I call a problem, and
+others call a prejudice, has now appeared in broad daylight in a new
+country where there is no priestcraft, no feudalism, no ancient
+superstition to explain it. It has appeared because it _is_ a problem;
+and those are the best friends of the Jews, including many of the Jews
+themselves, who are trying to find a solution. That is the meaning of
+the incident of Mr. Henry Ford of Detroit; and you will hardly hear an
+intelligible word about it in England.
+
+The talk of prejudice against the Japs is not unlike the talk of
+prejudice against the Jews. Only in this case our indifference has
+really the excuse of ignorance. We used to lecture the Russians for
+oppressing the Jews, before we heard the word Bolshevist and began to
+lecture them for being oppressed by the Jews. In the same way we have
+long lectured the Californians for oppressing the Japs, without allowing
+for the possibility of their foreseeing that the oppression may soon be
+the other way. As in the other case, it may be a persecution but it is
+not a prejudice. The Californians know more about the Japanese than we
+do; and our own colonists when they are placed in the same position
+generally say the same thing. I will not attempt to deal adequately here
+with the vast international and diplomatic problems which arise with the
+name of the new power in the Far East. It is possible that Japan, having
+imitated European militarism, may imitate European pacifism. I cannot
+honestly pretend to know what the Japanese mean by the one any more than
+by the other. But when Englishmen, especially English Liberals like
+myself, take a superior and censorious attitude towards Americans and
+especially Californians, I am moved to make a final remark. When a
+considerable number of Englishmen talk of the grave contending claims of
+our friendship with Japan and our friendship with America, when they
+finally tend in a sort of summing up to dwell on the superior virtues of
+Japan, I may be permitted to make a single comment.
+
+We are perpetually boring the world and each other with talk about the
+bonds that bind us to America. We are perpetually crying aloud that
+England and America are very much alike, especially England. We are
+always insisting that the two are identical in all the things in which
+they most obviously differ. We are always saying that both stand for
+democracy, when we should not consent to stand their democracy for half
+a day. We are always saying that at least we are all Anglo-Saxons, when
+we are descended from Romans and Normans and Britons and Danes, and they
+are descended from Irishmen and Italians and Slavs and Germans. We tell
+a people whose very existence is a revolt against the British Crown that
+they are passionately devoted to the British Constitution. We tell a
+nation whose whole policy has been isolation and independence that with
+us she can bear safely the White Man's Burden of universal empire. We
+tell a continent crowded with Irishmen to thank God that the Saxon can
+always rule the Celt. We tell a populace whose very virtues are lawless
+that together we uphold the Reign of Law. We recognise our own
+law-abiding character in people who make laws that neither they nor
+anybody else can abide. We congratulate them on clinging to all they
+have cast away, and on imitating everything which they came into
+existence to insult. And when we have established all these nonsensical
+analogies with a nonexistent nation, we wait until there is a crisis in
+which we really are at one with America, and then we falter and threaten
+to fail her. In a battle where we really are of one blood, the blood of
+the great white race throughout the world, when we really have one
+language, the fundamental alphabet of Cadmus and the script of Rome,
+when we really do represent the same reign of law, the common conscience
+of Christendom and the morals of men baptized, when we really have an
+implicit faith and honour and type of freedom to summon up our souls as
+with trumpets--_then_ many of us begin to weaken and waver and wonder
+whether there is not something very nice about little yellow men, whose
+heroic stories revolve round polygamy and suicide, and whose heroes wore
+two swords and worshipped the ancestors of the Mikado.
+
+
+
+
+_Prohibition in Fact and Fancy_
+
+
+I went to America with some notion of not discussing Prohibition. But I
+soon found that well-to-do Americans were only too delighted to discuss
+it over the nuts and wine. They were even willing, if necessary, to
+dispense with the nuts. I am far from sneering at this; having a general
+philosophy which need not here be expounded, but which may be symbolised
+by saying that monkeys can enjoy nuts but only men can enjoy wine. But
+if I am to deal with Prohibition, there is no doubt of the first thing
+to be said about it. The first thing to be said about it is that it does
+not exist. It is to some extent enforced among the poor; at any rate it
+was intended to be enforced among the poor; though even among them I
+fancy it is much evaded. It is certainly not enforced among the rich;
+and I doubt whether it was intended to be. I suspect that this has
+always happened whenever this negative notion has taken hold of some
+particular province or tribe. Prohibition never prohibits. It never has
+in history; not even in Moslem history; and it never will. Mahomet at
+least had the argument of a climate and not the interest of a class. But
+if a test is needed, consider what part of Moslem culture has passed
+permanently into our own modern culture. You will find the one Moslem
+poem that has really pierced is a Moslem poem in praise of wine. The
+crown of all the victories of the Crescent is that nobody reads the
+Koran and everybody reads the Rubaiyat.
+
+Most of us remember with satisfaction an old picture in _Punch_,
+representing a festive old gentleman in a state of collapse on the
+pavement, and a philanthropic old lady anxiously calling the attention
+of a cabman to the calamity. The old lady says, 'I'm sure this poor
+gentleman is ill,' and the cabman replies with fervour, 'Ill! I wish I
+'ad 'alf 'is complaint.'
+
+We talk about unconscious humour; but there is such a thing as
+unconscious seriousness. Flippancy is a flower whose roots are often
+underground in the subconsciousness. Many a man talks sense when he
+thinks he is talking nonsense; touches on a conflict of ideas as if it
+were only a contradiction of language, or really makes a parallel when
+he means only to make a pun. Some of the _Punch_ jokes of the best
+period are examples of this; and that quoted above is a very strong
+example of it. The cabman meant what he said; but he said a great deal
+more than he meant. His utterance contained fine philosophical doctrines
+and distinctions of which he was not perhaps entirely conscious. The
+spirit of the English language, the tragedy and comedy of the condition
+of the English people, spoke through him as the god spoke through a
+teraph-head or brazen mask of oracle. And the oracle is an omen; and in
+some sense an omen of doom.
+
+Observe, to begin with, the sobriety of the cabman. Note his measure,
+his moderation; or to use the yet truer term, his temperance. He only
+wishes to have half the old gentleman's complaint. The old gentleman is
+welcome to the other half, along with all the other pomps and luxuries
+of his superior social station. There is nothing Bolshevist or even
+Communist about the temperance cabman. He might almost be called
+Distributist, in the sense that he wishes to distribute the old
+gentleman's complaint more equally between the old gentleman and
+himself. And, of course, the social relations there represented are very
+much truer to life than it is fashionable to suggest. By the realism of
+this picture Mr. Punch made amends for some more snobbish pictures, with
+the opposite social moral. It will remain eternally among his real
+glories that he exhibited a picture in which the cabman was sober and
+the gentleman was drunk. Despite many ideas to the contrary, it was
+emphatically a picture of real life. The truth is subject to the
+simplest of all possible tests. If the cabman were really and truly
+drunk he would not be a cabman, for he could not drive a cab. If he had
+the whole of the old gentleman's complaint, he would be sitting happily
+on the pavement beside the old gentleman; a symbol of social equality
+found at last, and the levelling of all classes of mankind. I do not say
+that there has never been such a monster known as a drunken cabman; I do
+not say that the driver may not sometimes have approximated imprudently
+to three-quarters of the complaint, instead of adhering to his severe
+but wise conception of half of it. But I do say that most men of the
+world, if they spoke sincerely, could testify to more examples of
+helplessly drunken gentlemen put inside cabs than of helplessly drunken
+drivers on top of them. Philanthropists and officials, who never look at
+people but only at papers, probably have a mass of social statistics to
+the contrary; founded on the simple fact that cabmen can be
+cross-examined about their habits and gentlemen cannot. Social workers
+probably have the whole thing worked out in sections and compartments,
+showing how the extreme intoxication of cabmen compares with the
+parallel intoxication of costermongers; or measuring the drunkenness of
+a dustman against the drunkenness of a crossing-sweeper. But there is
+more practical experience embodied in the practical speech of the
+English; and in the proverb that says 'as drunk as a lord.'
+
+Now Prohibition, whether as a proposal in England or a pretence in
+America, simply means that the man who has drunk less shall have no
+drink, and the man who has drunk more shall have all the drink. It means
+that the old gentleman shall be carried home in the cab drunker than
+ever; but that, in order to make it quite safe for him to drink to
+excess, the man who drives him shall be forbidden to drink even in
+moderation. That is what it means; that is all it means; that is all it
+ever will mean. It tends to that in Moslem countries; where the
+luxurious and advanced drink champagne, while the poor and fanatical
+drink water. It means that in modern America; where the wealthy are all
+at this moment sipping their cocktails, and discussing how much harder
+labourers can be made to work if only they can be kept from festivity.
+This is what it means and all it means; and men are divided about it
+according to whether they believe in a certain transcendental concept
+called 'justice,' expressed in a more mystical paradox as the equality
+of men. So long as you do not believe in justice, and so long as you are
+rich and really confident of remaining so, you can have Prohibition and
+be as drunk as you choose.
+
+I see that some remarks by the Rev. R. J. Campbell, dealing with social
+conditions in America, are reported in the press. They include some
+observations about Sinn Fein in which, as in most of Mr. Campbell's
+allusions to Ireland, it is not difficult to detect his dismal origin,
+or the acrid smell of the smoke of Belfast. But the remarks about
+America are valuable in the objective sense, over and above their
+philosophy. He believes that Prohibition will survive and be a success,
+nor does he seem himself to regard the prospect with any special
+disfavour. But he frankly and freely testifies to the truth I have
+asserted; that Prohibition does not prohibit, so far as the wealthy are
+concerned. He testifies to constantly seeing wine on the table, as will
+any other grateful guest of the generous hospitality of America; and he
+implies humorously that he asked no questions about the story told him
+of the old stocks in the cellars. So there is no dispute about the
+facts; and we come back as before to the principles. Is Mr. Campbell
+content with a Prohibition which is another name for Privilege? If so,
+he has simply absorbed along with his new theology a new morality which
+is different from mine. But he does state both sides of the inequality
+with equal logic and clearness; and in these days of intellectual fog
+that alone is like a ray of sunshine.
+
+Now my primary objection to Prohibition is not based on any arguments
+against it, but on the one argument for it. I need nothing more for its
+condemnation than the only thing that is said in its defence. It is said
+by capitalists all over America; and it is very clearly and correctly
+reported by Mr. Campbell himself. The argument is that employees work
+harder, and therefore employers get richer. That this idea should be
+taken calmly, by itself, as the test of a problem of liberty, is in
+itself a final testimony to the presence of slavery. It shows that
+people have completely forgotten that there is any other test except the
+servile test. Employers are willing that workmen should have exercise,
+as it may help them to do more work. They are even willing that workmen
+should have leisure; for the more intelligent capitalists can see that
+this also really means that they can do more work. But they are not in
+any way willing that workmen should have fun; for fun only increases the
+happiness and not the utility of the worker. Fun is freedom; and in that
+sense is an end in itself. It concerns the man not as a worker but as a
+citizen, or even as a soul; and the soul in that sense is an end in
+itself. That a man shall have a reasonable amount of comedy and poetry
+and even fantasy in his life is part of his spiritual health, which is
+for the service of God; and not merely for his mechanical health, which
+is now bound to the service of man. The very test adopted has all the
+servile implication; the test of what we can get out of him, instead of
+the test of what he can get out of life.
+
+Mr. Campbell is reported to have suggested, doubtless rather as a
+conjecture than a prophecy, that England may find it necessary to become
+teetotal in order to compete commercially with the efficiency and
+economy of teetotal America. Well, in the eighteenth and early
+nineteenth centuries there was in America one of the most economical and
+efficient of all forms of labour. It did not happen to be feasible for
+the English to compete with it by copying it. There were so many
+humanitarian prejudices about in those days. But economically there
+seems to be no reason why a man should not have prophesied that England
+would be forced to adopt American Slavery then, as she is urged to adopt
+American Prohibition now. Perhaps such a prophet would have prophesied
+rightly. Certainly it is not impossible that universal Slavery might
+have been the vision of Calhoun as universal Prohibition seems to be the
+vision of Campbell. The old England of 1830 would have said that such a
+plea for slavery was monstrous; but what would it have said of a plea
+for enforced water-drinking? Nevertheless, the nobler Servile State of
+Calhoun collapsed before it could spread to Europe. And there is always
+the hope that the same may happen to the far more materialistic Utopia
+of Mr. Campbell and Soft Drinks.
+
+Abstract morality is very important; and it may well clear the mind to
+consider what would be the effect of Prohibition in America, if it were
+introduced there. It would, of course, be a decisive departure from the
+tradition of the Declaration of Independence. Those who deny that are
+hardly serious enough to demand attention. It is enough to say that they
+are reduced to minimising that document in defence of Prohibition,
+exactly as the slave-owners were reduced to minimising it in defence of
+Slavery. They are reduced to saying that the Fathers of the Republic
+meant no more than that they would not be ruled by a king. And they are
+obviously open to the reply which Lincoln gave to Douglas on the slavery
+question; that if that great charter was limited to certain events in
+the eighteenth century, it was hardly worth making such a fuss about in
+the nineteenth--or in the twentieth. But they are also open to another
+reply which is even more to the point, when they pretend that
+Jefferson's famous preamble only means to say that monarchy is wrong.
+They are maintaining that Jefferson only meant to say something that he
+does not say at all. The great preamble does not say that all
+monarchical government must be wrong; on the contrary, it rather implies
+that most government is right. It speaks of human governments in general
+as justified by the necessity of defending certain personal rights. I
+see no reason whatever to suppose that it would not include any royal
+government that does defend those rights. Still less do I doubt what it
+would say of a republican government that does destroy those rights.
+
+But what are those rights? Sophists can always debate about their
+degree; but even sophists cannot debate about their direction. Nobody in
+his five wits will deny that Jeffersonian democracy wished to give the
+law a general control in more public things, but the citizens a more
+general liberty in private things. Wherever we draw the line, liberty
+can only be personal liberty; and the most personal liberties must at
+least be the last liberties we lose. But to-day they are the first
+liberties we lose. It is not a question of drawing the line in the right
+place, but of beginning at the wrong end. What are the rights of man, if
+they do not include the normal right to regulate his own health, in
+relation to the normal risks of diet and daily life? Nobody can pretend
+that beer is a poison as prussic acid is a poison; that all the millions
+of civilised men who drank it all fell down dead when they had touched
+it. Its use and abuse is obviously a matter of judgment; and there can
+be no personal liberty, if it is not a matter of private judgment. It
+is not in the least a question of drawing the line between liberty and
+licence. If this is licence, there is no such thing as liberty. It is
+plainly impossible to find any right more individual or intimate. To say
+that a man has a right to a vote, but not a right to a voice about the
+choice of his dinner, is like saying that he has a right to his hat but
+not a right to his head.
+
+Prohibition, therefore, plainly violates the rights of man, if there are
+any rights of man. What its supporters really mean is that there are
+none. And in suggesting this, they have all the advantages that every
+sceptic has when he supports a negation. That sort of ultimate
+scepticism can only be retorted upon itself, and we can point out to
+them that they can no more prove the right of the city to be oppressive
+than we can prove the right of the citizen to be free. In the primary
+metaphysics of such a claim, it would surely be easier to make it out
+for a single conscious soul than for an artificial social combination.
+If there are no rights of men, what are the rights of nations? Perhaps a
+nation has no claim to self-government. Perhaps it has no claim to good
+government. Perhaps it has no claim to any sort of government or any
+sort of independence. Perhaps they will say _that_ is not implied in the
+Declaration of Independence. But without going deep into my reasons for
+believing in natural rights, or rather in supernatural rights (and
+Jefferson certainly states them as supernatural), I am content here to
+note that a man's treatment of his own body, in relation to traditional
+and ordinary opportunities for bodily excess, is as near to his
+self-respect as social coercion can possibly go; and that when that is
+gone there is nothing left. If coercion applies to that, it applies to
+everything; and in the future of this controversy it obviously will
+apply to everything. When I was in America, people were already applying
+it to tobacco. I never can see why they should not apply it to talking.
+Talking often goes with tobacco as it goes with beer; and what is more
+relevant, talking may often lead both to beer and tobacco. Talking often
+drives a man to drink, both negatively in the form of nagging and
+positively in the form of bad company. If the American Puritan is so
+anxious to be a _censor morum_, he should obviously put a stop to the
+evil communications that really corrupt good manners. He should
+reintroduce the Scold's Bridle among the other Blue Laws for a land of
+blue devils. He should gag all gay deceivers and plausible cynics; he
+should cut off all flattering lips and the tongue that speaketh proud
+things. Nobody can doubt that nine-tenths of the harm in the world is
+done simply by talking. Jefferson and the old democrats allowed people
+to talk, not because they were unaware of this fact, but because they
+were fettered by this old fancy of theirs about freedom and the rights
+of man. But since we have already abandoned that doctrine in a final
+fashion, I cannot see why the new principle should not be applied
+intelligently; and in that case it would be applied to the control of
+conversation. The State would provide us with forms already filled up
+with the subjects suitable for us to discuss at breakfast; perhaps
+allowing us a limited number of epigrams each. Perhaps we should have to
+make a formal application in writing, to be allowed to make a joke that
+had just occurred to us in conversation. And the committee would
+consider it in due course. Perhaps it would be effected in a more
+practical fashion, and the private citizens would be shut up as the
+public-houses were shut up. Perhaps they would all wear gags, which the
+policeman would remove at stated hours; and their mouths would be opened
+from one to three, as now in England even the public-houses are from
+time to time accessible to the public. To some this will sound
+fantastic; but not so fantastic as Jefferson would have thought
+Prohibition. But there is one sense in which it is indeed fantastic, for
+by hypothesis it leaves out the favouritism that is the fundamental of
+the whole matter. The only sense in which we can say that logic will
+never go so far as this is that logic will never go the length of
+equality. It is perfectly possible that the same forces that have
+forbidden beer may go on to forbid tobacco. But they will in a special
+and limited sense forbid tobacco--but not cigars. Or at any rate not
+expensive cigars. In America, where large numbers of ordinary men smoke
+rather ordinary cigars, there would be doubtless a good opportunity of
+penalising a very ordinary pleasure. But the Havanas of the millionaire
+will be all right. So it will be if ever the Puritans bring back the
+Scold's Bridle and the statutory silence of the populace. It will only
+be the populace that is silent. The politicians will go on talking.
+
+These I believe to be the broad facts of the problem of Prohibition; but
+it would not be fair to leave it without mentioning two other causes
+which, if not defences, are at least excuses. The first is that
+Prohibition was largely passed in a sort of fervour or fever of
+self-sacrifice, which was a part of the passionate patriotism of America
+in the war. As I have remarked elsewhere, those who have any notion of
+what that national unanimity was like will smile when they see America
+made a model of mere international idealism. Prohibition was partly a
+sort of patriotic renunciation; for the popular instinct, like every
+poetic instinct, always tends at great crises to great gestures of
+renunciation. But this very fact, while it makes the inhumanity far more
+human, makes it far less final and convincing. Men cannot remain
+standing stiffly in such symbolical attitudes; nor can a permanent
+policy be founded on something analogous to flinging a gauntlet or
+uttering a battle-cry. We might as well expect all the Yale students to
+remain through life with their mouths open, exactly as they were when
+they uttered the college yell. It would be as reasonable as to expect
+them to remain through life with their mouths shut, while the wine-cup
+which has been the sacrament of all poets and lovers passed round among
+all the youth of the world. This point appeared very plainly in a
+discussion I had with a very thoughtful and sympathetic American critic,
+a clergyman writing in an Anglo-Catholic magazine. He put the sentiment
+of these healthier Prohibitionists, which had so much to do with the
+passing of Prohibition, by asking, 'May not a man who is asked to give
+up his blood for his country be asked to give up his beer for his
+country?' And this phrase clearly illuminates all the limitations of the
+case. I have never denied, in principle, that it might in some abnormal
+crisis be lawful for a government to lock up the beer, or to lock up the
+bread. In that sense I am quite prepared to treat the sacrifice of beer
+in the same way as the sacrifice of blood. But is my American critic
+really ready to treat the sacrifice of blood in the same way as the
+sacrifice of beer? Is bloodshed to be as prolonged and protracted as
+Prohibition? Is the normal noncombatant to shed his gore as often as he
+misses his drink? I can imagine people submitting to a special
+regulation, as I can imagine them serving in a particular war. I do
+indeed despise the political knavery that deliberately passes drink
+regulations as war measures and then preserves them as peace measures.
+But that is not a question of whether drink and drunkenness are wrong,
+but of whether lying and swindling are wrong. But I never denied that
+there might need to be exceptional sacrifices for exceptional occasions;
+and war is in its nature an exception. Only, if war is the exception,
+why should Prohibition be the rule? If the surrender of beer is worthy
+to be compared to the shedding of blood, why then blood ought to be
+flowing for ever like a fountain in the public squares of Philadelphia
+and New York. If my critic wants to complete his parallel, he must draw
+up rather a remarkable programme for the daily life of the ordinary
+citizens. He must suppose that, through all their lives, they are
+paraded every day at lunch time and prodded with bayonets to show that
+they will shed their blood for their country. He must suppose that every
+evening, after a light repast of poison gas and shrapnel, they are made
+to go to sleep in a trench under a permanent drizzle of shell-fire. It
+is surely obvious that if this were the normal life of the citizen, the
+citizen would have no normal life. The common sense of the thing is that
+sacrifices of this sort are admirable but abnormal. It is not normal for
+the State to be perpetually regulating our days with the discipline of a
+fighting regiment; and it is not normal for the State to be perpetually
+regulating our diet with the discipline of a famine. To say that every
+citizen must be subject to control in such bodily things is like saying
+that every Christian ought to tear himself with red-hot pincers because
+the Christian martyrs did their duty in time of persecution. A man has a
+right to control his body, though in a time of martyrdom he may give his
+body to be burned; and a man has a right to control his bodily health,
+though in a state of siege he may give his body to be starved. Thus,
+though the patriotic defence was a sincere defence, it is a defence that
+comes back on the defenders like a boomerang. For it proves only that
+Prohibition ought to be ephemeral, unless war ought to be eternal.
+
+The other excuse is much less romantic and much more realistic. I have
+already said enough of the cause which is really realistic. The real
+power behind Prohibition is simply the plutocratic power of the pushing
+employers who wish to get the last inch of work out of their workmen.
+But before the progress of modern plutocracy had reached this stage,
+there was a predetermining cause for which there was a much better case.
+The whole business began with the problem of black labour. I have not
+attempted in this book to deal adequately with the question of the
+negro. I have refrained for a reason that may seem somewhat sensational;
+that I do not think I have anything particularly valuable to say or
+suggest. I do not profess to understand this singularly dark and
+intricate matter; and I see no use in men who have no solution filling
+up the gap with sentimentalism. The chief thing that struck me about the
+coloured people I saw was their charming and astonishing cheerfulness.
+My sense of pathos was appealed to much more by the Red Indians; and
+indeed I wish I had more space here to do justice to the Red Indians.
+They did heroic service in the war; and more than justified their
+glorious place in the day-dreams and nightmares of our boyhood. But the
+negro problem certainly demands more study than a sight-seer could give
+it; and this book is controversial enough about things that I have
+really considered, without permitting it to exhibit me as a sight-seer
+who shoots at sight. But I believe that it was always common ground to
+people of common sense that the enslavement and importation of negroes
+had been the crime and catastrophe of American history. The only
+difference was originally that one side thought that, the crime once
+committed, the only reparation was their freedom; while the other
+thought that, the crime once committed, the only safety was their
+slavery. It was only comparatively lately, by a process I shall have to
+indicate elsewhere, that anything like a positive case for slavery
+became possible. Now among the many problems of the presence of an alien
+and at least recently barbaric figure among the citizens, there was a
+very real problem of drink. Drink certainly has a very exceptionally
+destructive effect upon negroes in their native countries; and it was
+alleged to have a peculiarly demoralising effect upon negroes in the
+United States; to call up the passions that are the particular
+temptation of the race and to lead to appalling outrages that are
+followed by appalling popular vengeance. However this may be, many of
+the states of the American Union, which first forbade liquor to
+citizens, meant simply to forbid it to negroes. But they had not the
+moral courage to deny that negroes are citizens. About all their
+political expedients necessarily hung the load that hangs so heavy on
+modern politics; hypocrisy. The superior race had to rule by a sort of
+secret society organised against the inferior. The American politicians
+dared not disfranchise the negroes; so they coerced everybody in theory
+and only the negroes in practice. The drinking of the white men became
+as much a conspiracy as the shooting by the white horsemen of the
+Ku-Klux Klan. And in that connection, it may be remarked in passing that
+the comparison illustrates the idiocy of supposing that the moral sense
+of mankind will ever support the prohibition of drinking as if it were
+something like the prohibition of shooting. Shooting in America is
+liable to take a free form, and sometimes a very horrible form; as when
+private bravos were hired to kill workmen in the capitalistic interests
+of that pure patron of disarmament, Carnegie. But when some of the rich
+Americans gravely tell us that their drinking cannot be interfered with,
+because they are only using up their existing stocks of wine, we may
+well be disposed to smile. When I was there, at any rate, they were
+using them up very fast; and with no apparent fears about the supply.
+But if the Ku-Klux Klan had started suddenly shooting everybody they
+didn't like in broad daylight, and had blandly explained that they were
+only using up the stocks of their ammunition, left over from the Civil
+War, it seems probable that there would at least have been a little
+curiosity about how much they had left. There might at least have been
+occasional inquiries about how long it was likely to go on. It is even
+conceivable that some steps might have been taken to stop it.
+
+No steps are taken to stop the drinking of the rich, chiefly because
+the rich now make all the rules and therefore all the exceptions, but
+partly because nobody ever could feel the full moral seriousness of this
+particular rule. And the truth is, as I have indicated, that it was
+originally established as an exception and not as a rule. The
+emancipated negro was an exception in the community, and a certain plan
+was, rightly or wrongly, adopted to meet his case. A law was made
+professedly for everybody and practically only for him. Prohibition is
+only important as marking the transition by which the trick, tried
+successfully on black labour, could be extended to all labour. We in
+England have no right to be Pharisaic at the expense of the Americans in
+this matter; for we have tried the same trick in a hundred forms. The
+true philosophical defence of the modern oppression of the poor would be
+to say frankly that we have ruled them so badly that they are unfit to
+rule themselves. But no modern oligarch is enough of a man to say this.
+For like all virile cynicism it would have an element of humility; which
+would not mix with the necessary element of hypocrisy. So we proceed,
+just as the Americans do, to make a law for everybody and then evade it
+for ourselves. We have not the honesty to say that the rich may bet
+because they can afford it; so we forbid any man to bet in any place;
+and then say that a place is not a place. It is exactly as if there were
+an American law allowing a negro to be murdered because he is not a man
+within the meaning of the Act. We have not the honesty to drive the poor
+to school because they are ignorant; so we pretend to drive everybody;
+and then send inspectors to the slums but not to the smart streets. We
+apply the same ingenuous principle; and are quite as undemocratic as
+Western democracy. Nevertheless there is an element in the American case
+which cannot be present in ours; and this chapter may well conclude upon
+so important a change.
+
+America can now say with pride that she has abolished the colour bar. In
+this matter the white labourer and the black labourer have at last been
+put upon an equal social footing. White labour is every bit as much
+enslaved as black labour; and is actually enslaved by a method and a
+model only intended for black labour. We might think it rather odd if
+the exact regulations about flogging negroes were reproduced as a plan
+for punishing strikers; or if industrial arbitration issued its reports
+in the precise terminology of the Fugitive Slave Law. But this is in
+essentials what has happened; and one could almost fancy some negro orgy
+of triumph, with the beating of gongs and all the secret violence of
+Voodoo, crying aloud to some ancestral Mumbo Jumbo that the Poor White
+Trash was being treated according to its name.
+
+
+
+
+_Fads and Public Opinion_
+
+
+A foreigner is a man who laughs at everything except jokes. He is
+perfectly entitled to laugh at anything, so long as he realises, in a
+reverent and religious spirit, that he himself is laughable. I was a
+foreigner in America; and I can truly claim that the sense of my own
+laughable position never left me. But when the native and the foreigner
+have finished with seeing the fun of each other in things that are meant
+to be serious, they both approach the far more delicate and dangerous
+ground of things that are meant to be funny. The sense of humour is
+generally very national; perhaps that is why the internationalists are
+so careful to purge themselves of it. I had occasion during the war to
+consider the rights and wrongs of certain differences alleged to have
+arisen between the English and American soldiers at the front. And,
+rightly or wrongly, I came to the conclusion that they arose from the
+failure to understand when a foreigner is serious and when he is
+humorous. And it is in the very nature of the best sort of joke to be
+the worst sort of insult if it is not taken as a joke.
+
+The English and the American types of humour are in one way directly
+contrary. The most American sort of fun involves a soaring imagination,
+piling one house on another in a tower like that of a sky-scraper. The
+most English humour consists of a sort of bathos, of a man returning to
+the earth his mother in a homely fashion; as when he sits down suddenly
+on a butter-slide. English farce describes a man as being in a hole.
+American fantasy, in its more aspiring spirit, describes a man as being
+up a tree. The former is to be found in the cockney comic songs that
+concern themselves with hanging out the washing or coming home with the
+milk. The latter is to be found in those fantastic yarns about machines
+that turn live pigs into pig-skin purses or burning cities that serve to
+hatch an egg. But it will be inevitable, when the two come first into
+contact, that the bathos will sound like vulgarity and the extravagance
+will sound like boasting.
+
+Suppose an American soldier said to an English soldier in the trenches,
+'The Kaiser may want a place in the sun; I reckon he won't have a place
+in the solar system when we begin to hustle.' The English soldier will
+very probably form the impression that this is arrogance; an impression
+based on the extraordinary assumption that the American means what he
+says. The American has merely indulged in a little art for art's sake,
+and abstract adventure of the imagination; he has told an American short
+story. But the Englishman, not understanding this, will think the other
+man is boasting, and reflecting on the insufficiency of the English
+effort. The English soldier is very likely to say something like, 'Oh,
+you'll be wanting to get home to your old woman before that, and asking
+for a kipper with your tea.' And it is quite likely that the American
+will be offended in his turn at having his arabesque of abstract beauty
+answered in so personal a fashion. Being an American, he will probably
+have a fine and chivalrous respect for his wife; and may object to her
+being called an old woman. Possibly he in turn may be under the
+extraordinary delusion that talking of the old woman really means that
+the woman is old. Possibly he thinks the mysterious demand for a kipper
+carries with it some charge of ill-treating his wife; which his national
+sense of honour swiftly resents. But the real cross-purposes come from
+the contrary direction of the two exaggerations, the American making
+life more wild and impossible than it is, and the Englishman making it
+more flat and farcical than it is; the one escaping from the house of
+life by a skylight and the other by a trap-door.
+
+This difficulty of different humours is a very practical one for
+practical people. Most of those who profess to remove all international
+differences are not practical people. Most of the phrases offered for
+the reconciliation of severally patriotic peoples are entirely serious
+and even solemn phrases. But human conversation is not conducted in
+those phrases. The normal man on nine occasions out of ten is rather a
+flippant man. And the normal man is almost always the national man.
+Patriotism is the most popular of all the virtues. The drier sort of
+democrats who despise it have the democracy against them in every
+country in the world. Hence their international efforts seldom go any
+farther than to effect an international reconciliation of all
+internationalists. But we have not solved the normal and popular problem
+until we have an international reconciliation of all nationalists.
+
+It is very difficult to see how humour can be translated at all. When
+Sam Weller is in the Fleet Prison and Mrs. Weller and Mr. Stiggins sit
+on each side of the fireplace and weep and groan with sympathy, old Mr.
+Weller observes, 'Vell, Sammy, I hope you find your spirits rose by this
+'ere lively visit.' I have never looked up this passage in the popular
+and successful French version of _Pickwick_; but I confess I am curious
+as to what French past-participle conveys the precise effect of the word
+'rose.' A translator has not only to give the right translation of the
+right word but the right translation of the wrong word. And in the same
+way I am quite prepared to suspect that there are English jokes which an
+Englishman must enjoy in his own rich and romantic solitude, without
+asking for the sympathy of an American. But Englishmen are generally
+only too prone to claim this fine perception, without seeing that the
+fine edge of it cuts both ways. I have begun this chapter on the note of
+national humour because I wish to make it quite clear that I realise how
+easily a foreigner may take something seriously that is not serious.
+When I think something in America is really foolish, it may be I that am
+made a fool of. It is the first duty of a traveller to allow for this;
+but it seems to be the very last thing that occurs to some travellers.
+But when I seek to say something of what may be called the fantastic
+side of America, I allow beforehand that some of it may be meant to be
+fantastic. And indeed it is very difficult to believe that some of it is
+meant to be serious. But whether or no there is a joke, there is
+certainly an inconsistency; and it is an inconsistency in the moral
+make-up of America which both puzzles and amuses me.
+
+The danger of democracy is not anarchy but convention. There is even a
+sort of double meaning in the word 'convention'; for it is also used for
+the most informal and popular sort of parliament; a parliament not
+summoned by any king. The Americans come together very easily without
+any king; but their coming together is in every sense a convention, and
+even a very conventional convention. In a democracy riot is rather the
+exception and respectability certainly the rule. And though a
+superficial sight-seer should hesitate about all such generalisations,
+and certainly should allow for enormous exceptions to them, he does
+receive a general impression of unity verging on uniformity. Thus
+Americans all dress well; one might almost say that American women all
+look well; but they do not, as compared with Europeans, look very
+different. They are in the fashion; too much in the fashion even to be
+conspicuously fashionable. Of course there are patches, both Bohemian
+and Babylonian, of which this is not true, but I am talking of the
+general tone of a whole democracy. I have said there is more
+respectability than riot; but indeed in a deeper sense the same spirit
+is behind both riot and respectability. It is the same social force that
+makes it possible for the respectable to boycott a man and for the
+riotous to lynch him. I do not object to it being called 'the herd
+instinct,' so long as we realise that it is a metaphor and not an
+explanation.
+
+Public opinion can be a prairie fire. It eats up everything that opposes
+it; and there is the grandeur as well as the grave disadvantages of a
+natural catastrophe in that national unity. Pacifists who complained in
+England of the intolerance of patriotism have no notion of what
+patriotism can be like. If they had been in America, after America had
+entered the war, they would have seen something which they have always
+perhaps subconsciously dreaded, and would then have beyond all their
+worst dreams detested; and the name of it is democracy. They would have
+found that there are disadvantages in birds of a feather flocking
+together; and that one of them follows on a too complacent display of
+the white feather. The truth is that a certain flexible sympathy with
+eccentrics of this kind is rather one of the advantages of an
+aristocratic tradition. The imprisonment of Mr. Debs, the American
+Pacifist, which really was prolonged and oppressive, would probably have
+been shortened in England where his opinions were shared by aristocrats
+like Mr. Bertrand Russell and Mr. Ponsonby. A man like Lord Hugh Cecil
+could be moved to the defence of conscientious objectors, partly by a
+true instinct of chivalry; but partly also by the general feeling that a
+gentleman may very probably have aunts and uncles who are quite as mad.
+He takes the matter personally, in the sense of being able to imagine
+the psychology of the persons. But democracy is no respecter of persons.
+It is no respecter of them, either in the bad and servile or in the good
+and sympathetic sense. And Debs was nothing to democracy. He was but one
+of the millions. This is a real problem, or question in the balance,
+touching different forms of government; which is, of course, quite
+neglected by the idealists who merely repeat long words. There was
+during the war a society called the Union of Democratic Control, which
+would have been instantly destroyed anywhere where democracy had any
+control, or where there was any union. And in this sense the United
+States have most emphatically got a union. Nevertheless I think there is
+something rather more subtle than this simple popular solidity behind
+the assimilation of American citizens to each other. There is something
+even in the individual ideals that drives towards this social sympathy.
+And it is here that we have to remember that biological fancies like the
+herd instinct are only figures of speech, and cannot really cover
+anything human. For the Americans are in some ways a very self-conscious
+people. To compare their social enthusiasm to a stampede of cattle is to
+ask us to believe in a bull writing a diary or a cow looking in a
+looking-glass. Intensely sensitive by their very vitality, they are
+certainly conscious of criticism and not merely of a blind and brutal
+appetite. But the peculiar point about them is that it is this very
+vividness in the self that often produces the similarity. It may be that
+when they are unconscious they are like bulls and cows. But it is when
+they are self-conscious that they are like each other.
+
+Individualism is the death of individuality. It is so, if only because
+it is an 'ism.' Many Americans become almost impersonal in their worship
+of personality. Where their natural selves might differ, their ideal
+selves tend to be the same. Anybody can see what I mean in those strong
+self-conscious photographs of American business men that can be seen in
+any American magazine. Each may conceive himself to be a solitary
+Napoleon brooding at St. Helena; but the result is a multitude of
+Napoleons brooding all over the place. Each of them must have the eyes
+of a mesmerist; but the most weak-minded person cannot be mesmerised by
+more than one millionaire at a time. Each of the millionaires must
+thrust forward his jaw, offering (if I may say so) to fight the world
+with the same weapon as Samson. Each of them must accentuate the length
+of his chin, especially, of course, by always being completely
+clean-shaven. It would be obviously inconsistent with Personality to
+prefer to wear a beard. These are of course fantastic examples on the
+fringe of American life; but they do stand for a certain assimilation,
+not through brute gregariousness, but rather through isolated dreaming.
+And though it is not always carried so far as this, I do think it is
+carried too far. There is not quite enough unconsciousness to produce
+real individuality. There is a sort of worship of will-power in the
+abstract, so that people are actually thinking about how they can will,
+more than about what they want. To this I do think a certain corrective
+could be found in the nature of English eccentricity. Every man in his
+humour is most interesting when he is unconscious of his humour; or at
+least when he is in an intermediate stage between humour in the old
+sense of oddity and in the new sense of irony. Much is said in these
+days against negative morality; and certainly most Americans would show
+a positive preference for positive morality. The virtues they venerate
+collectively are very active virtues; cheerfulness and courage and vim,
+otherwise zip, also pep and similar things. But it is sometimes
+forgotten that negative morality is freer than positive morality.
+Negative morality is a net of a larger and more open pattern, of which
+the lines or cords constrict at longer intervals. A man like Dr. Johnson
+could grow in his own way to his own stature in the net of the Ten
+Commandments; precisely because he was convinced there were only ten of
+them. He was not compressed into the mould of positive beauty, like
+that of the Apollo Belvedere or the American citizen.
+
+This criticism is sometimes true even of the American woman, who is
+certainly a much more delightful person than the mesmeric millionaire
+with his shaven jaw. Interviewers in the United States perpetually asked
+me what I thought of American women, and I confessed a distaste for such
+generalisations which I have not managed to lose. The Americans, who are
+the most chivalrous people in the world, may perhaps understand me; but
+I can never help feeling that there is something polygamous about
+talking of women in the plural at all; something unworthy of any
+American except a Mormon. Nevertheless, I think the exaggeration I
+suggest does extend in a less degree to American women, fascinating as
+they are. I think they too tend too much to this cult of impersonal
+personality. It is a description easy to exaggerate even by the faintest
+emphasis; for all these things are subtle and subject to striking
+individual exceptions. To complain of people for being brave and bright
+and kind and intelligent may not unreasonably appear unreasonable. And
+yet there is something in the background that can only be expressed by a
+symbol, something that is not shallowness but a neglect of the
+subconsciousness and the vaguer and slower impulses; something that can
+be missed amid all that laughter and light, under those starry
+candelabra of the ideals of the happy virtues. Sometimes it came over
+me, in a wordless wave, that I should like to see a sulky woman. How she
+would walk in beauty like the night, and reveal more silent spaces full
+of older stars! These things cannot be conveyed in their delicate
+proportion even in the most detached description. But the same thing
+was in the mind of a white-bearded old man I met in New York, an Irish
+exile and a wonderful talker, who stared up at the tower of gilded
+galleries of the great hotel, and said with that spontaneous movement of
+style which is hardly heard except from Irish talkers: 'And I have been
+in a village in the mountains where the people could hardly read or
+write; but all the men were like soldiers, and all the women had pride.'
+
+It sounds like a poem about an Earthly Paradise to say that in this land
+the old women can be more beautiful than the young. Indeed, I think Walt
+Whitman, the national poet, has a line somewhere almost precisely to
+that effect. It sounds like a parody upon Utopia, and the image of the
+lion lying down with the lamb, to say it is a place where a man might
+almost fall in love with his mother-in-law. But there is nothing in
+which the finer side of American gravity and good feeling does more
+honourably exhibit itself than in a certain atmosphere around the older
+women. It is not a cant phrase to say that they grow old gracefully; for
+they do really grow old. In this the national optimism really has in it
+the national courage. The old women do not dress like young women; they
+only dress better. There is another side to this feminine dignity in the
+old, sometimes a little lost in the young, with which I shall deal
+presently. The point for the moment is that even Whitman's truly poetic
+vision of the beautiful old women suffers a little from that bewildering
+multiplicity and recurrence that is indeed the whole theme of Whitman.
+It is like the green eternity of Leaves of Grass. When I think of the
+eccentric spinsters and incorrigible grandmothers of my own country, I
+cannot imagine that any one of them could possibly be mistaken for
+another, even at a glance. And in comparison I feel as if I had been
+travelling in an Earthly Paradise of more decorative harmonies; and I
+remember only a vast cloud of grey and pink as of the plumage of
+cherubim in an old picture. But on second thoughts, I think this may be
+only the inevitable effect of visiting any country in a swift and
+superficial fashion; and that the grey and pink cloud is probably an
+illusion, like the spinning prairies scattered by the wheel of the
+train.
+
+Anyhow there is enough of this equality, and of a certain social unity
+favourable to sanity, to make the next point about America very much of
+a puzzle. It seems to me a very real problem, to which I have never seen
+an answer even such as I shall attempt here, why a democracy should
+produce fads; and why, where there is so genuine a sense of human
+dignity, there should be so much of an impossible petty tyranny. I am
+not referring solely or even specially to Prohibition, which I discuss
+elsewhere. Prohibition is at least a superstition, and therefore next
+door to a religion; it has some imaginable connection with moral
+questions, as have slavery or human sacrifice. But those who ask us to
+model ourselves on the States which punish the sin of drink forget that
+there are States which punish the equally shameless sin of smoking a
+cigarette in the open air. The same American atmosphere that permits
+Prohibition permits of people being punished for kissing each other. In
+other words, there are States psychologically capable of making a man a
+convict for wearing a blue neck-tie or having a green front-door, or
+anything else that anybody chooses to fancy. There is an American
+atmosphere in which people may some day be shot for shaking hands, or
+hanged for writing a post-card.
+
+As for the sort of thing to which I refer, the American newspapers are
+full of it and there is no name for it but mere madness. Indeed it is
+not only mad, but it calls itself mad. To mention but one example out of
+many, it was actually boasted that some lunatics were teaching children
+to take care of their health. And it was proudly added that the children
+were 'health-mad.' That it is not exactly the object of all mental
+hygiene to make people mad did not occur to them; and they may still be
+engaged in their earnest labours to teach babies to be valetudinarians
+and hypochondriacs in order to make them healthy. In such cases, we may
+say that the modern world is too ridiculous to be ridiculed. You cannot
+caricature a caricature. Imagine what a satirist of saner days would
+have made of the daily life of a child of six, who was actually admitted
+to be mad on the subject of his own health. These are not days in which
+that great extravaganza could be written; but I dimly see some of its
+episodes like uncompleted dreams. I see the child pausing in the middle
+of a cart-wheel, or when he has performed three-quarters of a
+cart-wheel, and consulting a little note-book about the amount of
+exercise per diem. I see him pausing half-way up a tree, or when he has
+climbed exactly one-third of a tree; and then producing a clinical
+thermometer to take his own temperature. But what would be the good of
+imaginative logic to prove the madness of such people, when they
+themselves praise it for being mad?
+
+There is also the cult of the Infant Phenomenon, of which Dickens made
+fun and of which educationalists make fusses. When I was in America
+another newspaper produced a marvellous child of six who had the
+intellect of a child of twelve. The only test given, and apparently one
+on which the experiment turned, was that she could be made to understand
+and even to employ the word 'annihilate.' When asked to say something
+proving this, the happy infant offered the polished aphorism, 'When
+common sense comes in, superstition is annihilated.' In reply to which,
+by way of showing that I also am as intelligent as a child of twelve,
+and there is no arrested development about me, I will say in the same
+elegant diction, 'When psychological education comes in, common sense is
+annihilated.' Everybody seems to be sitting round this child in an
+adoring fashion. It did not seem to occur to anybody that we do not
+particularly want even a child of twelve to talk about annihilating
+superstition; that we do not want a child of six to talk like a child of
+twelve, or a child of twelve to talk like a man of fifty, or even a man
+of fifty to talk like a fool. And on the principle of hoping that a
+little girl of six will have a massive and mature brain, there is every
+reason for hoping that a little boy of six will grow a magnificent and
+bushy beard.
+
+Now there is any amount of this nonsense cropping up among American
+cranks. Anybody may propose to establish coercive Eugenics; or enforce
+psychoanalysis--that is, enforce confession without absolution. And I
+confess I cannot connect this feature with the genuine democratic spirit
+of the mass. I can only suggest, in concluding this chapter, two
+possible causes rather peculiar to America, which may have made this
+great democracy so unlike all other democracies, and in this so
+manifestly hostile to the whole democratic idea.
+
+The first historical cause is Puritanism; but not Puritanism merely in
+the sense of Prohibitionism. The truth is that prohibitions might have
+done far less harm as prohibitions, if a vague association had not
+arisen, on some dark day of human unreason, between prohibition and
+progress. And it was the progress that did the harm, not the
+prohibition. Men can enjoy life under considerable limitations, if they
+can be sure of their limited enjoyments; but under Progressive
+Puritanism we can never be sure of anything. The curse of it is not
+limitation; it is unlimited limitation. The evil is not in the
+restriction; but in the fact that nothing can ever restrict the
+restriction. The prohibitions are bound to progress point by point; more
+and more human rights and pleasures must of necessity be taken away; for
+it is of the nature of this futurism that the latest fad is the faith of
+the future, and the most fantastic fad inevitably makes the pace. Thus
+the worst thing in the seventeenth-century aberration was not so much
+Puritanism as sectarianism. It searched for truth not by synthesis but
+by subdivision. It not only broke religion into small pieces, but it was
+bound to choose the smallest piece. There is in America, I believe, a
+large religious body that has felt it right to separate itself from
+Christendom because it cannot believe in the morality of wearing
+buttons. I do not know how the schism arose; but it is easy to suppose,
+for the sake of argument, that there had originally existed some Puritan
+body which condemned the frivolity of ribbons though not of buttons. I
+was going to say of badges but not buttons; but on reflection I cannot
+bring myself to believe that any American, however insane, would object
+to wearing badges. But the point is that as the holy spirit of
+progressive prophesy rested on the first sect because it had invented a
+new objection to ribbons, so that holy spirit would then pass from it to
+the new sect who invented a further objection to buttons. And from them
+it must inevitably pass to any rebel among them who shall choose to rise
+and say that he disapproves of trousers because of the existence of
+trouser-buttons. Each secession in turn must be right because it is
+recent, and progress must progress by growing smaller and smaller. That
+is the progressive theory, the legacy of seventeenth-century
+sectarianism, the dogma implied in much modern politics, and the evident
+enemy of democracy. Democracy is reproached with saying that the
+majority is always right. But progress says that the minority is always
+right. Progressives are prophets; and fortunately not all the people are
+prophets. Thus in the atmosphere of this slowly dying sectarianism
+anybody who chooses to prophesy and prohibit can tyrannise over the
+people. If he chooses to say that drinking is always wrong, or that
+kissing is always wrong, or that wearing buttons is always wrong, people
+are afraid to contradict him for fear they should be contradicting their
+own great-grandchild. For their superstition is an inversion of the
+ancestor-worship of China; and instead of vainly appealing to something
+that is dead, they appeal to something that may never be born.
+
+There is another cause of this strange servile disease in American
+democracy. It is to be found in American feminism, and feminist America
+is an entirely different thing from feminine America. I should say that
+the overwhelming majority of American girls laugh at their female
+politicians at least as much as the majority of American men despise
+their male politicians. But though the aggressive feminists are a
+minority, they are in this atmosphere which I have tried to analyse; the
+atmosphere in which there is a sort of sanctity about the minority. And
+it is this superstition of seriousness that constitutes the most solid
+obstacle and exception to the general and almost conventional pressure
+of public opinion. When a fad is frankly felt to be anti-national, as
+was Abolitionism before the Civil War, or Pro-Germanism in the Great
+War, or the suggestion of racial admixture in the South at all times,
+then the fad meets far less mercy than anywhere else in the world; it is
+snowed under and swept away. But when it does not thus directly
+challenge patriotism or popular ideas, a curious halo of hopeful
+solemnity surrounds it, merely because it is a fad, but above all if it
+is a feminine fad. The earnest lady-reformer who really utters a warning
+against the social evil of beer or buttons is seen to be walking clothed
+in light, like a prophetess. Perhaps it is something of the holy aureole
+which the East sees shining around an idiot.
+
+But I think there is another explanation, feminine rather than feminist,
+and proceeding from normal women and not from abnormal idiots. It is
+something that involves an old controversy, but one upon which I have
+not, like so many politicians, changed my opinion. It concerns the
+particular fashion in which women tend to regard, or rather to
+disregard, the formal and legal rights of the citizen. In so far as this
+is a bias, it is a bias in the directly opposite direction from that now
+lightly alleged. There is a sort of underbred history going about,
+according to which women in the past have always been in the position of
+slaves. It is much more to the point to note that women have always been
+in the position of despots. They have been despotic because they ruled
+in an area where they had too much common sense to attempt to be
+constitutional. You cannot grant a constitution to a nursery; nor can
+babies assemble like barons and extort a Great Charter. Tommy cannot
+plead a Habeas Corpus against going to bed; and an infant cannot be
+tried by twelve other infants before he is put in the corner. And as
+there can be no laws or liberties in a nursery, the extension of
+feminism means that there shall be no more laws or liberties in a state
+than there are in a nursery. The woman does not really regard men as
+citizens but as children. She may, if she is a humanitarian, love all
+mankind; but she does not respect it. Still less does she respect its
+votes. Now a man must be very blind nowadays not to see that there is a
+danger of a sort of amateur science or pseudo-science being made the
+excuse for every trick of tyranny and interference. Anybody who is not
+an anarchist agrees with having a policeman at the corner of the street;
+but the danger at present is that of finding the policeman half-way down
+the chimney or even under the bed. In other words, it is a danger of
+turning the policeman into a sort of benevolent burglar. Against this
+protests are already being made, and will increasingly be made, if men
+retain any instinct of independence or dignity at all. But to complain
+of the woman interfering in the home will always sound like complaining
+of the oyster intruding into the oyster-shell. To object that she has
+too much power over education will seem like objecting to a hen having
+too much to do with eggs. She has already been given an almost
+irresponsible power over a limited region in these things; and if that
+power is made infinite it will be even more irresponsible. If she adds
+to her own power in the family all these alien fads external to the
+family, her power will not only be irresponsible but insane. She will be
+something which may well be called a nightmare of the nursery; a mad
+mother. But the point is that she will be mad about other nurseries as
+well as her own, or possibly instead of her own. The results will be
+interesting; but at least it is certain that under this softening
+influence government of the people, by the people, for the people, will
+most assuredly perish from the earth.
+
+But there is always another possibility. Hints of it may be noted here
+and there like muffled gongs of doom. The other day some people
+preaching some low trick or other, for running away from the glory of
+motherhood, were suddenly silenced in New York; by a voice of deep and
+democratic volume. The prigs who potter about the great plains are
+pygmies dancing round a sleeping giant. That which sleeps, so far as
+they are concerned, is the huge power of human unanimity and intolerance
+in the soul of America. At present the masses in the Middle West are
+indifferent to such fancies or faintly attracted by them, as fashions of
+culture from the great cities. But any day it may not be so; some
+lunatic may cut across their economic rights or their strange and buried
+religion; and then he will see something. He will find himself running
+like a nigger who has wronged a white woman or a man who has set the
+prairie on fire. He will see something which the politicians fan in its
+sleep and flatter with the name of the people, which many reactionaries
+have cursed with the name of the mob, but which in any case has had
+under its feet the crowns of many kings. It was said that the voice of
+the people is the voice of God; and this at least is certain, that it
+can be the voice of God to the wicked. And the last antics of their
+arrogance shall stiffen before something enormous, such as towers in the
+last words that Job heard out of the whirlwind; and a voice they never
+knew shall tell them that his name is Leviathan, and he is lord over all
+the children of pride.
+
+
+
+
+_The Extraordinary American_
+
+
+When I was in America I had the feeling that it was far more foreign
+than France or even than Ireland. And by foreign I mean fascinating
+rather than repulsive. I mean that element of strangeness which marks
+the frontier of any fairyland, or gives to the traveller himself the
+almost eerie title of the stranger. And I saw there more clearly than in
+countries counted as more remote from us, in race or religion, a paradox
+that is one of the great truths of travel.
+
+We have never even begun to understand a people until we have found
+something that we do not understand. So long as we find the character
+easy to read, we are reading into it our own character. If when we see
+an event we can promptly provide an explanation, we may be pretty
+certain that we had ourselves prepared the explanation before we saw the
+event. It follows from this that the best picture of a foreign people
+can probably be found in a puzzle picture. If we can find an event of
+which the meaning is really dark to us, it will probably throw some
+light on the truth. I will therefore take from my American experiences
+one isolated incident, which certainly could not have happened in any
+other country I have ever clapped eyes on. I have really no notion of
+what it meant. I have heard even from Americans about five different
+conjectures about its meaning. But though I do not understand it, I do
+sincerely believe that if I did understand it, I should understand
+America.
+
+It happened in the city of Oklahoma, which would require a book to
+itself, even considered as a background. The State of Oklahoma is a
+district in the south-west recently reclaimed from the Red Indian
+territory. What many, quite incorrectly, imagine about all America is
+really true of Oklahoma. It is proud of having no history. It is glowing
+with the sense of having a great future--and nothing else. People are
+just as likely to boast of an old building in Nashville as in Norwich;
+people are just as proud of old families in Boston as in Bath. But in
+Oklahoma the citizens do point out a colossal structure, arrogantly
+affirming that it wasn't there last week. It was against the colours of
+this crude stage scenery, as of a pantomime city of pasteboard, that the
+fantastic figure appeared which still haunts me like a walking note of
+interrogation. I was strolling down the main street of the city, and
+looking in at a paper-stall vivid with the news of crime, when a
+stranger addressed me; and asked me, quite politely but with a curious
+air of having authority to put the question, what I was doing in that
+city.
+
+He was a lean brown man, having rather the look of a shabby tropical
+traveller, with a grey moustache and a lively and alert eye. But the
+most singular thing about him was that the front of his coat was covered
+with a multitude of shining metallic emblems made in the shape of stars
+and crescents. I was well accustomed by this time to Americans adorning
+the lapels of their coats with little symbols of various societies; it
+is a part of the American passion for the ritual of comradeship. There
+is nothing that an American likes so much as to have a secret society
+and to make no secret of it. But in this case, if I may put it so, the
+rash of symbolism seemed to have broken out all over the man, in a
+fashion that indicated that the fever was far advanced. Of this minor
+mystery, however, his first few sentences offered a provisional
+explanation. In answer to his question, touching my business in
+Oklahoma, I replied with restraint that I was lecturing. To which he
+replied without restraint, but rather with an expansive and radiant
+pride, 'I also am lecturing. I am lecturing on astronomy.'
+
+So far a certain wild rationality seemed to light up the affair. I knew
+it was unusual, in my own country, for the Astronomer Royal to walk down
+the Strand with his coat plastered all over with the Solar System.
+Indeed, it was unusual for any English astronomical lecturer to
+advertise the subject of his lectures in this fashion. But though it
+would be unusual, it would not necessarily be unreasonable. In fact, I
+think it might add to the colour and variety of life, if specialists did
+adopt this sort of scientific heraldry. I should like to be able to
+recognise an entomologist at sight by the decorative spiders and
+cockroaches crawling all over his coat and waistcoat. I should like to
+see a conchologist in a simple costume of shells. An osteopath, I
+suppose, would be agreeably painted so as to resemble a skeleton, while
+a botanist would enliven the street with the appearance of a
+Jack-in-the-Green. So while I regarded the astronomical lecturer in the
+astronomical coat as a figure distinguishable, by a high degree of
+differentiation, from the artless astronomers of my island home (enough
+their simple loveliness for me) I saw in him nothing illogical, but
+rather an imaginative extreme of logic. And then came another turn of
+the wheel of topsy-turvydom, and all the logic was scattered to the
+wind.
+
+Expanding his starry bosom and standing astraddle, with the air of one
+who owned the street, the strange being continued, 'Yes, I am lecturing
+on astronomy, anthropology, archaeology, palaeontology, embryology,
+eschatology,' and so on in a thunderous roll of theoretical sciences
+apparently beyond the scope of any single university, let alone any
+single professor. Having thus introduced himself, however, he got to
+business. He apologised with true American courtesy for having
+questioned me at all, and excused it on the ground of his own exacting
+responsibilities. I imagined him to mean the responsibility of
+simultaneously occupying the chairs of all the faculties already
+mentioned. But these apparently were trifles to him, and something far
+more serious was clouding his brow.
+
+'I feel it to be my duty,' he said, 'to acquaint myself with any
+stranger visiting this city; and it is an additional pleasure to welcome
+here a member of the Upper Ten.' I assured him earnestly that I knew
+nothing about the Upper Ten, except that I did not belong to them; I
+felt, not without alarm, that the Upper Ten might be another secret
+society. He waved my abnegation aside and continued, 'I have a great
+responsibility in watching over this city. My friend the mayor and I
+have a great responsibility.' And then an extraordinary thing happened.
+Suddenly diving his hand into his breast-pocket, he flashed something
+before my eyes like a hand-mirror; something which disappeared again
+almost as soon as it appeared. In that flash I could only see that it
+was some sort of polished metal plate, with some letters engraved on it
+like a monogram. But the reward of a studious and virtuous life, which
+has been spent chiefly in the reading of American detective stories,
+shone forth for me in that hour of trial; I received at last the prize
+of a profound scholarship in the matter of imaginary murders in
+tenth-rate magazines. I remembered who it was who in the Yankee
+detective yarn flashes before the eyes of Slim Jim or the Lone Hand
+Crook a badge of metal sometimes called a shield. Assuming all the
+desperate composure of Slim Jim himself, I replied, 'You mean you are
+connected with the police authorities here, don't you? Well, if I commit
+a murder here, I'll let you know.' Whereupon that astonishing man waved
+a hand in deprecation, bowed in farewell with the grace of a dancing
+master; and said, 'Oh, those are not things we expect from members of
+the Upper Ten.'
+
+Then that moving constellation moved away, disappearing in the dark
+tides of humanity, as the vision passed away down the dark tides from
+Sir Galahad and, starlike, mingled with the stars.
+
+That is the problem I would put to all Americans, and to all who claim
+to understand America. Who and what was that man? Was he an astronomer?
+Was he a detective? Was he a wandering lunatic? If he was a lunatic who
+thought he was an astronomer, why did he have a badge to prove he was a
+detective? If he was a detective pretending to be an astronomer, why did
+he tell a total stranger that he was a detective two minutes after
+saying he was an astronomer? If he wished to watch over the city in a
+quiet and unobtrusive fashion, why did he blazon himself all over with
+all the stars of the sky, and profess to give public lectures on all the
+subjects of the world? Every wise and well-conducted student of murder
+stories is acquainted with the notion of a policeman in plain clothes.
+But nobody could possibly say that this gentleman was in plain clothes.
+Why not wear his uniform, if he was resolved to show every stranger in
+the street his badge? Perhaps after all he had no uniform; for these
+lands were but recently a wild frontier rudely ruled by vigilance
+committees. Some Americans suggested to me that he was the Sheriff; the
+regular hard-riding, free-shooting Sheriff of Bret Harte and my
+boyhood's dreams. Others suggested that he was an agent of the Ku-Klux
+Klan, that great nameless revolution of the revival of which there were
+rumours at the time; and that the symbol he exhibited was theirs. But
+whether he was a sheriff acting for the law, or a conspirator against
+the law, or a lunatic entirely outside the law, I agree with the former
+conjectures upon one point. I am perfectly certain he had something else
+in his pocket besides a badge. And I am perfectly certain that under
+certain circumstances he would have handled it instantly, and shot me
+dead between the gay bookstall and the crowded trams. And that is the
+last touch to the complexity; for though in that country it often seems
+that the law is made by a lunatic, you never know when the lunatic may
+not shoot you for keeping it. Only in the presence of that citizen of
+Oklahoma I feel I am confronted with the fullness and depth of the
+mystery of America. Because I understand nothing, I recognise the thing
+that we call a nation; and I salute the flag.
+
+But even in connection with this mysterious figure there is a moral
+which affords another reason for mentioning him. Whether he was a
+sheriff or an outlaw, there was certainly something about him that
+suggested the adventurous violence of the old border life of America;
+and whether he was connected with the police or no, there was certainly
+violence enough in his environment to satisfy the most ardent policeman.
+The posters in the paper-shop were placarded with the verdict in the
+Hamon trial; a _cause celebre_ which reached its crisis in Oklahoma
+while I was there. Senator Hamon had been shot by a girl whom he had
+wronged, and his widow demanded justice, or what might fairly be called
+vengeance. There was very great excitement culminating in the girl's
+acquittal. Nor did the Hamon case appear to be entirely exceptional in
+that breezy borderland. The moment the town had received the news that
+Clara Smith was free, newsboys rushed down the street shouting, 'Double
+stabbing outrage near Oklahoma,' or 'Banker's throat cut on Main
+Street,' or otherwise resuming their regular mode of life. It seemed as
+much as to say, 'Do not imagine that our local energies are exhausted in
+shooting a Senator,' or 'Come, now, the world is young, even if Clara
+Smith is acquitted, and the enthusiasm of Oklahoma is not yet cold.'
+
+But my particular reason for mentioning the matter is this. Despite my
+friend's mystical remarks about the Upper Ten, he lived in an atmosphere
+of something that was at least the very reverse of a respect for
+persons. Indeed, there was something in the very crudity of his social
+compliment that smacked, strangely enough, of that egalitarian soil. In
+a vaguely aristocratic country like England, people would never dream
+of telling a total stranger that he was a member of the Upper Ten. For
+one thing, they would be afraid that he might be. Real snobbishness is
+never vulgar; for it is intended to please the refined. Nobody licks the
+boots of a duke, if only because the duke does not like his boots
+cleaned in that way. Nobody embraces the knees of a marquis, because it
+would embarrass that nobleman. And nobody tells him he is a member of
+the Upper Ten, because everybody is expected to know it. But there is a
+much more subtle kind of snobbishness pervading the atmosphere of any
+society trial in England. And the first thing that struck me was the
+total absence of that atmosphere in the trial at Oklahoma. Mr. Hamon was
+presumably a member of the Upper Ten, if there is such a thing. He was a
+member of the Senate or Upper House in the American Parliament; he was a
+millionaire and a pillar of the Republican party, which might be called
+the respectable party; he is said to have been mentioned as a possible
+President. And the speeches of Clara Smith's counsel, who was known by
+the delightfully Oklahomite title of Wild Bill McLean, were wild enough
+in all conscience; but they left very little of my friend's illusion
+that members of the Upper Ten could not be accused of crimes. Nero and
+Borgia were quite presentable people compared with Senator Hamon when
+Wild Bill McLean had done with him. But the difference was deeper, and
+even in a sense more delicate than this. There is a certain tone about
+English trials, which does at least begin with a certain scepticism
+about people prominent in public life being abominable in private life.
+People do vaguely doubt the criminality of 'a man in that position';
+that is, the position of the Marquise de Brinvilliers or the Marquis de
+Sade. _Prima facie_, it would be an advantage to the Marquis de Sade
+that he was a marquis. But it was certainly against Hamon that he was a
+millionaire. Wild Bill did not minimise him as a bankrupt or an
+adventurer; he insisted on the solidity and size of his fortune, he made
+mountains out of the 'Hamon millions,' as if they made the matter much
+worse; as indeed I think they do. But that is because I happen to share
+a certain political philosophy with Wild Bill and other wild buffaloes
+of the prairies. In other words, there is really present here a
+democratic instinct against the domination of wealth. It does not
+prevent wealth from dominating; but it does prevent the domination from
+being regarded with any affection or loyalty. Despite the man in the
+starry coat, the Americans have not really any illusions about the Upper
+Ten. McLean was appealing to an implicit public opinion when he pelted
+the Senator with his gold.
+
+But something more is involved. I became conscious, as I have been
+conscious in reading the crime novels of America, that the millionaire
+was taken as a type and not an individual. This is the great difference;
+that America recognises rich crooks as a _class_. Any Englishman might
+recognise them as individuals. Any English romance may turn on a crime
+in high life; in which the baronet is found to have poisoned his wife,
+or the elusive burglar turns out to be the bishop. But the English are
+not always saying, either in romance or reality, 'What's to be done, if
+our food is being poisoned by all these baronets?' They do not murmur in
+indignation, 'If bishops will go on burgling like this, something must
+be done.' The whole point of the English romance is the exceptional
+character of a crime in high life. That is not the tone of American
+novels or American newspapers or American trials like the trial in
+Oklahoma. Americans may be excited when a millionaire crook is caught,
+as when any other crook is caught; but it is at his being caught, not at
+his being discovered. To put the matter shortly, England recognises a
+criminal class at the bottom of the social scale. America also
+recognises a criminal class at the top of the social scale. In both, for
+various reasons, it may be difficult for the criminals to be convicted;
+but in America the upper class of criminals is recognised. In both
+America and England, of course, it exists.
+
+This is an assumption at the back of the American mind which makes a
+great difference in many ways; and in my opinion a difference for the
+better. I wrote merely fancifully just now about bishops being burglars;
+but there is a story in New York, illustrating this, which really does
+in a sense attribute a burglary to a bishop. The story was that an
+Anglican Lord Spiritual, of the pompous and now rather antiquated
+school, was pushing open the door of a poor American tenement with all
+the placid patronage of the squire and rector visiting the cottagers,
+when a gigantic Irish policeman came round the corner and hit him a
+crack over the head with a truncheon on the assumption that he was a
+house-breaker. I hope that those who laugh at the story see that the
+laugh is not altogether against the policeman; and that it is not only
+the policeman, but rather the bishop, who had failed to recognise some
+fine logical distinctions. The bishop, being a learned man, might well
+be called upon (when he had sufficiently recovered from the knock on
+the head) to define what is the exact difference between a house-breaker
+and a home-visitor; and why the home-visitor should not be regarded as a
+house-breaker when he will not behave as a guest. An impartial
+intelligence will be much less shocked at the policeman's disrespect for
+the home-visitor than by the home-visitor's disrespect for the home.
+
+But that story smacks of the western soil, precisely because of the
+element of brutality there is in it. In England snobbishness and social
+oppression are much subtler and softer; the manifestations of them at
+least are more mellow and humane. In comparison there is indeed
+something which people call ruthless about the air of America,
+especially the American cities. The bishop may push open the door
+without an apology, but he would not break open the door with a
+truncheon; but the Irish policeman's truncheon hits both ways. It may be
+brutal to the tenement dweller as well as to the bishop; but the
+difference and distinction is that it might really be brutal to the
+bishop. It is because there is after all, at the back of all that
+barbarism, a sort of a negative belief in the brotherhood of men, a dark
+democratic sense that men are really men and nothing more, that the
+coarse and even corrupt bureaucracy is not resented exactly as
+oligarchic bureaucracies are resented. There is a sense in which
+corruption is not so narrow as nepotism. It is upon this queer cynical
+charity, and even humility, that it has been possible to rear so high
+and uphold so long that tower of brass, Tammany Hall. The modern police
+system is in spirit the most inhuman in history, and its evil belongs
+to an age and not to a nation. But some American police methods are evil
+past all parallel; and the detective can be more crooked than a hundred
+crooks. But in the States it is not only possible that the policeman is
+worse than the convict, it is by no means certain that he thinks that he
+is any better. In the popular stories of O. Henry there are light
+allusions to tramps being kicked out of hotels which will make any
+Christian seek relief in strong language and a trust in heaven--not to
+say in hell. And yet books even more popular than O. Henry's are those
+of the 'sob-sisterhood' who swim in lachrymose lakes after love-lorn
+spinsters, who pass their lives in reclaiming and consoling such tramps.
+There are in this people two strains of brutality and sentimentalism
+which I do not understand, especially where they mingle; but I am fairly
+sure they both work back to the dim democratic origin. The Irish
+policeman does not confine himself fastidiously to bludgeoning bishops;
+his truncheon finds plenty of poor people's heads to hit; and yet I
+believe on my soul he has a sort of sympathy with poor people not to be
+found in the police of more aristocratic states. I believe he also reads
+and weeps over the stories of the spinsters and the reclaimed tramps; in
+fact, there is much of such pathos in an American magazine (my sole
+companion on many happy railway journeys) which is not only devoted to
+detective stories, but apparently edited by detectives. In these stories
+also there is the honest, popular astonishment at the Upper Ten
+expressed by the astronomical detective, if indeed he was a detective
+and not a demon from the dark Red-Indian forests that faded to the
+horizon behind him. But I have set him as the head and text of this
+chapter because with these elements of the Third Degree of devilry and
+the Seventh Heaven of sentimentalism I touch on elements that I do not
+understand; and when I do not understand, I say so.
+
+
+
+
+_The Republican in the Ruins_
+
+
+The heathen in his blindness bows down to wood and stone; especially to
+a wood-cut or a lithographic stone. Modern people put their trust in
+pictures, especially scientific pictures, as much as the most
+superstitious ever put it in religious pictures. They publish a portrait
+of the Missing Link as if he were the Missing Man, for whom the police
+are always advertising; for all the world as if the anthropoid had been
+photographed before he absconded. The scientific diagram may be a
+hypothesis; it may be a fancy; it may be a forgery. But it is always an
+idol in the true sense of an image; and an image in the true sense of a
+thing mastering the imagination and not the reason. The power of these
+talismanic pictures is almost hypnotic to modern humanity. We can never
+forget that we have seen a portrait of the Missing Link; though we
+should instantly detect the lapse of logic into superstition, if we were
+told that the old Greek agnostics had made a statue of the Unknown God.
+But there is a still stranger fashion in which we fall victims to the
+same trick of fancy. We accept in a blind and literal spirit, not only
+images of speculation, but even figures of speech. The nineteenth
+century prided itself on having lost its faith in myths, and proceeded
+to put all its faith in metaphors. It dismissed the old doctrines about
+the way of life and the light of the world; and then it proceeded to
+talk as if the light of truth were really and literally a light, that
+could be absorbed by merely opening our eyes; or as if the path of
+progress were really and truly a path, to be found by merely following
+our noses. Thus the purpose of God is an idea, true or false; but the
+purpose of Nature is merely a metaphor; for obviously if there is no God
+there is no purpose. Yet while men, by an imaginative instinct, spoke of
+the purpose of God with a grand agnosticism, as something too large to
+be seen, something reaching out to worlds and to eternities, they speak
+of the purpose of Nature in particular and practical problems of curing
+babies or cutting up rabbits. This power of the modern metaphor must be
+understood, by way of an introduction, if we are to understand one of
+the chief errors, at once evasive and pervasive, which perplex the
+problem of America.
+
+America is always spoken of as a young nation; and whether or no this be
+a valuable and suggestive metaphor, very few people notice that it is a
+metaphor at all. If somebody said that a certain deserving charity had
+just gone into trousers, we should recognise that it was a figure of
+speech, and perhaps a rather surprising figure of speech. If somebody
+said that a daily paper had recently put its hair up, we should know it
+could only be a metaphor, and possibly a rather strained metaphor. Yet
+these phrases would mean the only thing that can possibly be meant by
+calling a corporate association of all sorts of people 'young'; that is,
+that a certain institution has only existed for a certain time. I am not
+now denying that such a corporate nationality may happen to have a
+psychology comparatively analogous to the psychology of youth. I am not
+even denying that America has it. I am only pointing out, to begin with,
+that we must free ourselves from the talismanic tyranny of a metaphor
+which we do not recognise as a metaphor. Men realised that the old
+mystical doctrines were mystical; they do not realise that the new
+metaphors are metaphorical. They have some sort of hazy notion that
+American society must be growing, must be promising, must have the
+virtues of hope or the faults of ignorance, merely _because_ it has only
+had a separate existence since the eighteenth century. And that is
+exactly like saying that a new chapel must be growing taller, or that a
+limited liability company will soon have its second teeth.
+
+Now in truth this particular conception of American hopefulness would be
+anything but hopeful for America. If the argument really were, as it is
+still vaguely supposed to be, that America must have a long life before
+it, because it only started in the eighteenth century, we should find a
+very fatal answer by looking at the other political systems that did
+start in the eighteenth century. The eighteenth century was called the
+Age of Reason; and there is a very real sense in which the other systems
+were indeed started in a spirit of reason. But starting from reason has
+not saved them from ruin. If we survey the Europe of to-day with real
+clarity and historic comprehension, we shall see that it is precisely
+the most recent and the most rationalistic creations that have been
+ruined. The two great States which did most definitely and emphatically
+deserve to be called modern states were Prussia and Russia. There was no
+real Prussia before Frederick the Great; no real Russian Empire before
+Peter the Great. Both those innovators recognised themselves as
+rationalists bringing a new reason and order into an indeterminate
+barbarism; and doing for the barbarians what the barbarians could not do
+for themselves. They did not, like the kings of England or France or
+Spain or Scotland, inherit a sceptre that was the symbol of a historic
+and patriotic people. In this sense there was no Russia but only an
+Emperor of Russia. In this sense Prussia was a kingdom before it was a
+nation; if it ever was a nation. But anyhow both men were particularly
+modern in their whole mood and mind. They were modern to the extent of
+being not only anti-traditional, but almost anti-patriotic. Peter forced
+the science of the West on Russia to the regret of many Russians.
+Frederick talked the French of Voltaire and not the German of Luther.
+The two experiments were entirely in the spirit of Voltairean
+rationalism; they were built in broad daylight by men who believed in
+nothing but the light of common day; and already their day is done.
+
+If then the promise of America were in the fact that she is one of the
+latest births of progress, we should point out that it is exactly the
+latest born that were the first to die. If in this sense she is praised
+as young, it may be answered that the young have died young, and have
+not lived to be old. And if this be confused with the argument that she
+came in an age of clarity and scepticism, uncontaminated by old
+superstitions, it could still be retorted that the works of superstition
+have survived the works of scepticism. But the truth is, of course, that
+the real quality of America is much more subtle and complex than this;
+and is mixed not only of good and bad, and rational and mystical, but
+also of old and new. That is what makes the task of tracing the true
+proportions of American life so interesting and so impossible.
+
+To begin with, such a metaphor is always as distracting as a mixed
+metaphor. It is a double-edged tool that cuts both ways; and
+consequently opposite ways. We use the same word 'young' to mean two
+opposite extremes. We mean something at an early stage of growth, and
+also something having the latest fruits of growth. We might call a
+commonwealth young if it conducted all its daily conversation by
+wireless telegraphy; meaning that it was progressive. But we might also
+call it young if it conducted all its industry with chipped flints;
+meaning that it was primitive. These two meanings of youth are
+hopelessly mixed up when the word is applied to America. But what is
+more curious, the two elements really are wildly entangled in America.
+America is in some ways what is called in advance of the times, and in
+some ways what is called behind the times; but it seems a little
+confusing to convey both notions by the same word.
+
+On the one hand, Americans often are successful in the last inventions.
+And for that very reason they are often neglectful of the last but one.
+It is true of men in general, dealing with things in general, that while
+they are progressing in one thing, such as science, they are going back
+in another thing, such as art. What is less fully realised is that this
+is true even as between different methods of science. The perfection of
+wireless telegraphy might well be followed by the gross imperfection of
+wires. The very enthusiasm of American science brings this out very
+vividly. The telephone in New York works miracles all day long. Replies
+from remote places come as promptly as in a private talk; nobody cuts
+anybody off; nobody says, 'Sorry you've been troubled.' But then the
+postal service of New York does not work at all. At least I could never
+discover it working. Letters lingered in it for days and days, as in
+some wild village of the Pyrenees. When I asked a taxi-driver to drive
+me to a post-office, a look of far-off vision and adventure came into
+his eyes, and he said he had once heard of a post-office somewhere near
+West Ninety-Seventh Street. Men are not efficient in everything, but
+only in the fashionable thing. This may be a mark of the march of
+science; it does certainly in one sense deserve the description of
+youth. We can imagine a very young person forgetting the old toy in the
+excitement of a new one.
+
+But on the other hand, American manners contain much that is called
+young in the contrary sense; in the sense of an earlier stage of
+history. There are whole patches and particular aspects that seem to me
+quite Early Victorian. I cannot help having this sensation, for
+instance, about the arrangement for smoking in the railway carriages.
+There are no smoking carriages, as a rule; but a corner of each of the
+great cars is curtained off mysteriously, that a man may go behind the
+curtain and smoke. Nobody thinks of a woman doing so. It is regarded as
+a dark, bohemian, and almost brutally masculine indulgence; exactly as
+it was regarded by the dowagers in Thackeray's novels. Indeed, this is
+one of the many such cases in which extremes meet; the extremes of
+stuffy antiquity and cranky modernity. The American dowager is sorry
+that tobacco was ever introduced; and the American suffragette and
+social reformer is considering whether tobacco ought not to be
+abolished. The tone of American society suggests some sort of
+compromise, by which women will be allowed to smoke, but men forbidden
+to do so.
+
+In one respect, however, America is very old indeed. In one respect
+America is more historic than England; I might almost say more
+archaeological than England. The record of one period of the past,
+morally remote and probably irrevocable, is there preserved in a more
+perfect form as a pagan city is preserved at Pompeii. In a more general
+sense, of course, it is easy to exaggerate the contrast as a mere
+contrast between the old world and the new. There is a superficial
+satire about the millionaire's daughter who has recently become the wife
+of an aristocrat; but there is a rather more subtle satire in the
+question of how long the aristocrat has been aristocratic. There is
+often much misplaced mockery of a marriage between an upstart's daughter
+and a decayed relic of feudalism; when it is really a marriage between
+an upstart's daughter and an upstart's grandson. The sentimental
+socialist often seems to admit the blue blood of the nobleman, even when
+he wants to shed it; just as he seems to admit the marvellous brains of
+the millionaire, even when he wants to blow them out. Unfortunately (in
+the interests of social science, of course) the sentimental socialist
+never does go so far as bloodshed or blowing out brains; otherwise the
+colour and quality of both blood and brains would probably be a
+disappointment to him. There are certainly more American families that
+really came over in the _Mayflower_ than English families that really
+came over with the Conqueror; and an English county family clearly
+dating from the time of the _Mayflower_ would be considered a very
+traditional and historic house. Nevertheless, there are ancient things
+in England, though the aristocracy is hardly one of them. There are
+buildings, there are institutions, there are even ideas in England which
+do preserve, as in a perfect pattern, some particular epoch of the past,
+and even of the remote past. A man could study the Middle Ages in
+Lincoln as well as in Rouen; in Canterbury as well as in Cologne. Even
+of the Renaissance the same is true, at least on the literary side; if
+Shakespeare was later he was also greater than Ronsard. But the point is
+that the spirit and philosophy of the periods were present in fullness
+and in freedom. The guildsmen were as Christian in England as they were
+anywhere; the poets were as pagan in England as they were anywhere.
+Personally I do not admit that the men who served patrons were freer
+than those who served patron saints. But each fashion had its own kind
+of freedom; and the point is that the English, in each case, had the
+fullness of that kind of freedom. But there was another ideal of freedom
+which the English never had at all; or, anyhow, never expressed at all.
+There was another ideal, the soul of another epoch, round which we built
+no monuments and wrote no masterpieces. You will find no traces of it in
+England; but you will find them in America.
+
+The thing I mean was the real religion of the eighteenth century. Its
+religion, in the more defined sense, was generally Deism, as in
+Robespierre or Jefferson. In the more general way of morals and
+atmosphere it was rather Stoicism, as in the suicide of Wolfe Tone. It
+had certain very noble and, as some would say, impossible ideals; as
+that a politician should be poor, and should be proud of being poor. It
+knew Latin; and therefore insisted on the strange fancy that the
+Republic should be a public thing. Its Republican simplicity was
+anything but a silly pose; unless all martyrdom is a silly pose. Even of
+the prigs and fanatics of the American and French Revolutions we can
+often say, as Stevenson said of an American, that 'thrift and courage
+glowed in him.' And its virtue and value for us is that it did remember
+the things we now most tend to forget; from the dignity of liberty to
+the danger of luxury. It did really believe in self-determination, in
+the self-determination of the self, as well as of the state. And its
+determination was really determined. In short, it believed in
+self-respect; and it is strictly true even of its rebels and regicides
+that they desired chiefly to be respectable. But there were in it the
+marks of religion as well as respectability; it had a creed; it had a
+crusade. Men died singing its songs; men starved rather than write
+against its principles. And its principles were liberty, equality, and
+fraternity, or the dogmas of the Declaration of Independence. This was
+the idea that redeemed the dreary negations of the eighteenth century;
+and there are still corners of Philadelphia or Boston or Baltimore where
+we can feel so suddenly in the silence its plain garb and formal
+manners, that the walking ghost of Jefferson would hardly surprise us.
+
+There is not the ghost of such a thing in England. In England the real
+religion of the eighteenth century never found freedom or scope. It
+never cleared a space in which to build that cold and classic building
+called the Capitol. It never made elbow-room for that free if sometimes
+frigid figure called the Citizen.
+
+In eighteenth-century England he was crowded out, partly perhaps by the
+relics of better things of the past, but largely at least by the
+presence of much worse things in the present. The worst things kept out
+the best things of the eighteenth century. The ground was occupied by
+legal fictions; by a godless Erastian church and a powerless Hanoverian
+king. Its realities were an aristocracy of Regency dandies, in costumes
+made to match Brighton Pavilion; a paganism not frigid but florid. It
+was a touch of this aristocratic waste in Fox that prevented that great
+man from being a glorious exception. It is therefore well for us to
+realise that there is something in history which we did not experience;
+and therefore probably something in Americans that we do not understand.
+There was this idealism at the very beginning of their individualism.
+There was a note of heroic publicity and honourable poverty which
+lingers in the very name of Cincinnati.
+
+But I have another and special reason for noting this historical fact;
+the fact that we English never made anything upon the model of a
+capitol, while we can match anybody with the model of a cathedral. It is
+far from improbable that the latter model may again be a working model.
+For I have myself felt, naturally and for a long time, a warm sympathy
+with both those past ideals, which seem to some so incompatible. I have
+felt the attraction of the red cap as well as the red cross, of the
+Marseillaise as well as the Magnificat. And even when they were in
+furious conflict I have never altogether lost my sympathy for either.
+But in the conflict between the Republic[1] and the Church, the point
+often made against the Church seems to me much more of a point against
+the Republic. It is emphatically the Republic and not the Church that I
+venerate as something beautiful but belonging to the past. In fact I
+feel exactly the same sort of sad respect for the republican ideal that
+many mid-Victorian free-thinkers felt for the religious ideal. The most
+sincere poets of that period were largely divided between those who
+insisted, like Arnold and Clough, that Christianity might be a ruin, but
+after all it must be treated as a picturesque ruin; and those, like
+Swinburne, who insisted that it might be a picturesque ruin, but after
+all it must be treated as a ruin. But surely their own pagan temple of
+political liberty is now much more of a ruin than the other; and I fancy
+I am one of the few who still take off their hats in that ruined temple.
+That is why I went about looking for the fading traces of that lost
+cause, in the old-world atmosphere of the new world.
+
+But I do not, as a fact, feel that the cathedral is a ruin; I doubt if I
+should feel it even if I wished to lay it in ruins. I doubt if Mr.
+M'Cabe really thinks that Catholicism is dying, though he might deceive
+himself into saying so. Nobody could be naturally moved to say that the
+crowded cathedral of St. Patrick in New York was a ruin, or even that
+the unfinished Anglo-Catholic cathedral at Washington was a ruin, though
+it is not yet a church; or that there is anything lost or lingering
+about the splendid and spirited Gothic churches springing up under the
+inspiration of Mr. Cram of Boston. As a matter of feeling, as a matter
+of fact, as a matter quite apart from theory or opinion, it is not in
+the religious centres that we now have the feeling of something
+beautiful but receding, of something loved but lost. It is exactly in
+the spaces cleared and levelled by America for the large and sober
+religion of the eighteenth century; it is where an old house in
+Philadelphia contains an old picture of Franklin, or where the men of
+Maryland raised above their city the first monument of Washington. It is
+there that I feel like one who treads alone some banquet hall deserted,
+whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead, and all save he departed. It
+is then that I feel as if I were the last Republican.
+
+But when I say that the Republic of the Age of Reason is now a ruin, I
+should rather say that at its best it is a ruin. At its worst it has
+collapsed into a death-trap or is rotting like a dunghill. What is the
+real Republic of our day as distinct from the ideal Republic of our
+fathers, but a heap of corrupt capitalism crawling with worms; with
+those parasites, the professional politicians? I was re-reading
+Swinburne's bitter but not ignoble poem, 'Before a Crucifix,' in which
+he bids Christ, or the ecclesiastical image of Christ, stand out of the
+way of the onward march of a political idealism represented by United
+Italy or the French Republic. I was struck by the strange and ironic
+exactitude with which every taunt he flings at the degradation of the
+old divine ideal would now fit the degradation of his own human ideal.
+The time has already come when we can ask his Goddess of Liberty, as
+represented by the actual Liberals, 'Have _you_ filled full men's
+starved-out souls; have _you_ brought freedom on the earth?' For every
+engine in which these old free-thinkers firmly and confidently trusted
+has itself become an engine of oppression and even of class oppression.
+Its free parliament has become an oligarchy. Its free press has become a
+monopoly. If the pure Church has been corrupted in the course of two
+thousand years, what about the pure Republic that has rotted into a
+filthy plutocracy in less than a hundred?
+
+
+ O, hidden face of man, whereover
+ The years have woven a viewless veil,
+ If thou wert verily man's lover
+ What did thy love or blood avail?
+ Thy blood the priests make poison of;
+ And in gold shekels coin thy love.
+
+
+Which has most to do with shekels to-day, the priests or the
+politicians? Can we say in any special sense nowadays that clergymen, as
+such, make a poison out of the blood of the martyrs? Can we say it in
+anything like the real sense, in which we do say that yellow journalists
+make a poison out of the blood of the soldiers?
+
+But I understand how Swinburne felt when confronted by the image of the
+carven Christ, and, perplexed by the contrast between its claims and its
+consequences, he said his strange farewell to it, hastily indeed, but
+not without regret, not even really without respect. I felt the same
+myself when I looked for the last time on the Statue of Liberty.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] In the conclusion of this chapter I mean by the Republic
+not merely the American Republic, but the whole modern representative
+system, as in France or even in England.
+
+
+
+
+_Is the Atlantic Narrowing?_
+
+
+A certain kind of question is asked very earnestly in our time. Because
+of a certain logical quality in it, connected with premises and data, it
+is very difficult to answer. Thus people will ask what is the hidden
+weakness in the Celtic race that makes them everywhere fail or fade
+away; or how the Germans contrived to bring all their organisation into
+a state of such perfect efficiency; and what was the significance of the
+recent victory of Prussia. Or they will ask by what stages the modern
+world has abandoned all belief in miracles; and the modern newspapers
+ceased to print any news of murders. They will ask why English politics
+are free from corruption; or by what mental and moral training certain
+millionaires were enabled to succeed by sheer force of character; in
+short, they will ask why plutocrats govern well and how it is that pigs
+fly, spreading their pink pinions to the breeze or delighting us as they
+twitter and flutter from tree to tree. The logical difficulty of
+answering these questions is connected with an old story about Charles
+the Second and a bowl of goldfish, and with another anecdote about a
+gentleman who was asked, 'When did you leave off beating your wife?' But
+there is something analogous to it in the present discussions about the
+forces drawing England and America together. It seems as if the
+reasoners hardly went far enough back in their argument, or took
+trouble enough to disentangle their assumptions. They are still moving
+with the momentum of the peculiar nineteenth-century notion of progress;
+of certain very simple tendencies perpetually increasing and needing no
+special analysis. It is so with the international _rapprochement_ I have
+to consider here.
+
+In other places I have ventured to express a doubt about whether nations
+can be drawn together by an ancient rumour about races; by a sort of
+prehistoric chit-chat or the gossip of the Stone Age. I have ventured
+farther; and even expressed a doubt about whether they ought to be drawn
+together, or rather dragged together, by the brute violence of the
+engines of science and speed. But there is yet another horrible doubt
+haunting my morbid mind, which it will be better for my constitution to
+confess frankly. And that is the doubt about whether they are being
+drawn together at all.
+
+It has long been a conversational commonplace among the enlightened that
+all countries are coming closer and closer to each other. It was a
+conversational commonplace among the enlightened, somewhere about the
+year 1913, that all wars were receding farther and farther into a
+barbaric past. There is something about these sayings that seems simple
+and familiar and entirely satisfactory when we say them; they are of
+that consoling sort which we can say without any of the mental pain of
+thinking what we are saying. But if we turn our attention from the
+phrases we use to the facts that we talk about, we shall realise at
+least that there are a good many facts on the other side and examples
+pointing the other way. For instance, it does happen occasionally, from
+time to time, that people talk about Ireland. He would be a very
+hilarious humanitarian who should maintain that Ireland and England have
+been more and more assimilated during the last hundred years. The very
+name of Sinn Fein is an answer to it, and the very language in which
+that phrase is spoken. Curran and Sheil would no more have dreamed of
+uttering the watchword of 'Repeal' in Gaelic than of uttering it in
+Zulu. Grattan could hardly have brought himself to believe that the real
+repeal of the Union would actually be signed in London in the strange
+script as remote as the snaky ornament of the Celtic crosses. It would
+have seemed like Washington signing the Declaration of Independence in
+the picture-writing of the Red Indians. Ireland has clearly grown away
+from England; and her language, literature, and type of patriotism are
+far less English than they were. On the other hand, no one will pretend
+that the mass of modern Englishmen are much nearer to talking Gaelic or
+decorating Celtic crosses. A hundred years ago it was perfectly natural
+that Byron and Moore should walk down the street arm in arm. Even the
+sight of Mr. Rudyard Kipling and Mr. W. B. Yeats walking down the street
+arm in arm would now arouse some remark.
+
+I could give any number of other examples of the same new estrangement
+of nations. I could cite the obvious facts that Norway and Sweden parted
+company not very long ago, that Austria and Hungary have again become
+separate states. I could point to the mob of new nations that have
+started up after the war; to the fact that the great empires are now
+nearly all broken up; that the Russian Empire no longer directs Poland,
+that the Austrian Empire no longer directs Bohemia, that the Turkish
+Empire no longer directs Palestine. Sinn Fein is the separatism of the
+Irish. Zionism is the separatism of the Jews. But there is one simple
+and sufficing example, which is here more to my purpose, and is at least
+equally sufficient for it. And that is the deepening national difference
+between the Americans and the English.
+
+Let me test it first by my individual experience in the matter of
+literature. When I was a boy I read a book like _The Autocrat of the
+Breakfast-Table_ exactly as I read another book like _The Book of
+Snobs_. I did not think of it as an American book, but simply as a book.
+Its wit and idiom were like those of the English literary tradition; and
+its few touches of local colour seemed merely accidental, like those of
+an Englishman who happened to be living in Switzerland or Sweden. My
+father and my father's friends were rightly enthusiastic for the book;
+so that it seemed to come to me by inheritance like _Gulliver's Travels_
+or _Tristram Shandy_. Its language was as English as Ruskin, and a great
+deal more English than Carlyle. Well, I have seen in later years an
+almost equally wide and well-merited popularity of the stories of O.
+Henry. But never for one moment could I or any one else reading them
+forget that they were stories by an American about America. The very
+first fact about them is that they are told with an American accent,
+that is, in the unmistakable tones of a brilliant and fascinating
+foreigner. And the same is true of every other recent work of which the
+fame has managed to cross the Atlantic. We did not say that _The Spoon
+River Anthology_ was a new book, but that it was a new book from
+America. It was exactly as if a remarkable realistic novel was reported
+from Russia or Italy. We were in no danger of confusing it with the
+'Elegy in a Country Churchyard.' People in England who heard of Main
+Street were not likely to identify it with a High Street; with the
+principal thoroughfare in any little town in Berkshire or
+Buckinghamshire. But when I was a boy I practically identified the
+boarding-house of the Autocrat with any boarding-house I happened to
+know in Brompton or Brighton. No doubt there were differences; but the
+point is that the differences did not pierce the consciousness or prick
+the illusion. I said to myself, 'People are like this in
+boarding-houses,' not 'People are like this in Boston.'
+
+This can be seen even in the simple matter of language, especially in
+the sense of slang. Take, for instance, the delightful sketch in the
+causerie of Oliver Wendell Holmes; the character of the young man called
+John. He is the very modern type in every modern country who does
+specialise in slang. He is the young fellow who is something in the
+City; the everyday young man of the Gilbertian song, with a stick and a
+pipe and a half-bred black-and-tan. In every country he is at once witty
+and commonplace. In every country, therefore, he tends both to the
+vivacity and the vulgarity of slang. But when he appeared in Holmes's
+book, his language was not very different from what it would have been
+in a Brighton instead of a Boston boarding-house; or, in short, if the
+young man called John had more commonly been called 'Arry. If he had
+appeared in a modern American book, his language would have been almost
+literally unintelligible. At the least an Englishman would have had to
+read some of the best sentences twice, as he sometimes has to read the
+dizzy and involved metaphors of O. Henry. Nor is it an answer that this
+depended on the personalities of the particular writers. A comparison
+between the real journalism of the time of Holmes and the real
+journalism of the time of Henry reveals the same thing. It is the
+expansion of a slight difference of style into a luxuriant difference of
+idiom; and the process continued indefinitely would certainly produce a
+totally different language. After a few centuries the signatures of
+American ambassadors would look as fantastic as Gaelic, and the very
+name of the Republic be as strange as Sinn Fein.
+
+It is true that there has been on the surface a certain amount of give
+and take; or at least, as far as the English are concerned, of take
+rather than give. But it is true that it was once all the other way; and
+indeed the one thing is something like a just nemesis of the other.
+Indeed, the story of the reversal is somewhat singular, when we come to
+think of it. It began in a certain atmosphere and spirit of certain
+well-meaning people who talked about the English-speaking race; and were
+apparently indifferent to how the English was spoken, whether in the
+accent of a Jamaican negro or a convict from Botany Bay. It was their
+logical tendency to say that Dante was a Dago. It was their logical
+punishment to say that Disraeli was an Englishman. Now there may have
+been a period when this Anglo-American amalgamation included more or
+less equal elements from England and America. It never included the
+larger elements, or the more valuable elements of either. But, on the
+whole, I think it true to say that it was not an allotment but an
+interchange of parts; and that things first went all one way and then
+all the other. People began by telling the Americans that they owed all
+their past triumphs to England; which was false. They ended up by
+telling the English that they would owe all their future triumphs to
+America; which is if possible still more false. Because we chose to
+forget that New York had been New Amsterdam, we are now in danger of
+forgetting that London is not New York. Because we insisted that Chicago
+was only a pious imitation of Chiswick, we may yet see Chiswick an
+inferior imitation of Chicago. Our Anglo-Saxon historians attempted that
+conquest in which Howe and Burgoyne had failed, and with infinitely less
+justification on their side. They attempted the great crime of the
+Anglicisation of America. They have called down the punishment of the
+Americanisation of England. We must not murmur; but it is a heavy
+punishment.
+
+It may lift a little of its load, however, if we look at it more
+closely; we shall then find that though it is very much on top of us, it
+is only on top. In that sense such Americanisation as there is is very
+superficial. For instance, there is a certain amount of American slang
+picked up at random; it appears in certain pushing types of journalism
+and drama. But we may easily dwell too much on this tragedy; of people
+who have never spoken English beginning to speak American. I am far from
+suggesting that American, like any other foreign language, may not
+frequently contribute to the common culture of the world phrases for
+which there is no substitute; there are French phrases so used in
+England and English phrases in France. The word 'high-brow,' for
+instance, is a real discovery and revelation, a new and necessary name
+for something that walked nameless but enormous in the modern world, a
+shaft of light and a stroke of lightning. That comes from America and
+belongs to the world, as much as 'The Raven' or _The Scarlet Letter_ or
+the novels of Henry James belong to the world. In fact, I can imagine
+Henry James originating it in the throes of self-expression, and
+bringing out a word like 'high-browed,' with a sort of gentle jerk, at
+the end of searching sentences which groped sensitively until they found
+the phrase. But most of the American slang that is borrowed seems to be
+borrowed for no particular reason. It either has no point or the point
+is lost by translation into another context and culture. It is either
+something which does not need any grotesque and exaggerative
+description, or of which there already exists a grotesque and
+exaggerative description more native to our tongue and soil. For
+instance, I cannot see that the strong and simple expression 'Now it is
+for you to pull the police magistrate's nose' is in any way strengthened
+by saying, 'Now it is up to you to pull the police magistrate's nose.'
+When Tennyson says of the men of the Light Brigade 'Theirs but to do and
+die,' the expression seems to me perfectly lucid. 'Up to them to do and
+die' would alter the metre without especially clarifying the meaning.
+This is an example of ordinary language being quite adequate; but there
+is a further difficulty that even wild slang comes to sound like
+ordinary language. Very often the English have already as humorous and
+fanciful idiom of their own, only that through habit it has lost its
+humour. When Keats wrote the line, 'What pipes and timbrels, what wild
+ecstasy!' I am willing to believe that the American humorist would have
+expressed the same sentiment by beginning the sentence with 'Some
+pipe!' When that was first said, somewhere in the wilds of Colorado, it
+was really funny; involving a powerful understatement and the suggestion
+of a mere sample. If a spinster has informed us that she keeps a bird,
+and we find it is an ostrich, there will be considerable point in the
+Colorado satirist saying inquiringly, 'Some bird?' as if he were
+offering us a small slice of a small plover. But if we go back to this
+root and rationale of a joke, the English language already contains
+quite as good a joke. It is not necessary to say, 'Some bird'; there is
+a far finer irony in the old expression, 'Something like a bird.' It
+suggests that the speaker sees something faintly and strangely birdlike
+about a bird; that it remotely and almost irrationally reminds him of a
+bird; and that there is about ostrich plumes a yard long something like
+the faint and delicate traces of a feather. It has every quality of
+imaginative irony, except that nobody even imagines it to be ironical.
+All that happens is that people get tired of that turn of phrase, take
+up a foreign phrase and get tired of that, without realising the point
+of either. All that happens is that a number of weary people who used to
+say, 'Something like a bird,' now say, 'Some bird,' with undiminished
+weariness. But they might just as well use dull and decent English; for
+in both cases they are only using jocular language without seeing the
+joke.
+
+There is indeed a considerable trade in the transplantation of these
+American jokes to England just now. They generally pine and die in our
+climate, or they are dead before their arrival; but we cannot be certain
+that they were never alive. There is a sort of unending frieze or
+scroll of decorative designs unrolled ceaselessly before the British
+public, about a hen-pecked husband, which is indistinguishable to the
+eye from an actual self-repeating pattern like that of the Greek Key,
+but which is imported as if it were as precious and irreplaceable as the
+Elgin Marbles. Advertisement and syndication make mountains out of the
+most funny little mole-hills; but no doubt the mole-hills are
+picturesque enough in their own landscape. In any case there is nothing
+so national as humour; and many things, like many people, can be
+humorous enough when they are at home. But these American jokes are
+boomed as solemnly as American religions; and their supporters gravely
+testify that they are funny, without seeing the fun of it for a moment.
+This is partly perhaps the spirit of spontaneous institutionalism in
+American democracy, breaking out in the wrong place. They make humour an
+institution; and a man will be set to tell an anecdote as if to play the
+violin. But when the story is told in America it really is amusing; and
+when these jokes are reprinted in England they are often not even
+intelligible. With all the stupidity of the millionaire and the
+monopolist, the enterprising proprietor prints jokes in England which
+are necessarily unintelligible to nearly every English person; jokes
+referring to domestic and local conditions quite peculiar to America. I
+saw one of these narrative caricatures the other day in which the whole
+of the joke (what there was of it) turned on the astonishment of a
+housewife at the absurd notion of not having an ice-box. It is perfectly
+true that nearly every ordinary American housewife possesses an ice-box.
+An ordinary English housewife would no more expect to possess an
+ice-box than to possess an iceberg. And it would be about as sensible to
+tow an iceberg to an English port all the way from the North Pole, as to
+trail that one pale and frigid joke to Fleet Street all the way from the
+New York papers. It is the same with a hundred other advertisements and
+adaptations. I have already confessed that I took a considerable delight
+in the dancing illuminations of Broadway--in Broadway. Everything there
+is suitable to them, the vast interminable thoroughfare, the toppling
+houses, the dizzy and restless spirit of the whole city. It is a city of
+dissolving views, and one may almost say a city in everlasting
+dissolution. But I do not especially admire a burning fragment of
+Broadway stuck up opposite the old Georgian curve of Regent Street. I
+would as soon express sympathy with the Republic of Switzerland by
+erecting a small Alp, with imitation snow, in the middle of St. James's
+Park.
+
+But all this commercial copying is very superficial; and above all, it
+never copies anything that is really worth copying. Nations never
+_learn_ anything from each other in this way. We have many things to
+learn from America; but we only listen to those Americans who have still
+to learn them. Thus, for instance, we do not import the small farm but
+only the big shop. In other words, we hear nothing of the democracy of
+the Middle West, but everything of the plutocracy of the middleman, who
+is probably as unpopular in the Middle West as the miller in the Middle
+Ages. If Mr. Elihu K. Pike could be transplanted bodily from the
+neighbourhood of his home town of Marathon, Neb., with his farm and his
+frame-house and all its fittings, and they could be set down exactly in
+the spot now occupied by Selfridge's (which could be easily cleared away
+for the purpose), I think we could really get a great deal of good by
+watching him, even if the watching were inevitably a little too like
+watching a wild beast in a cage or an insect under a glass case. Urban
+crowds could collect every day behind a barrier or railing, and gaze at
+Mr. Pike pottering about all day in his ancient and autochthonous
+occupations. We could see him growing Indian corn with all the gravity
+of an Indian; though it is impossible to imagine Mrs. Pike blessing the
+cornfield in the manner of Minnehaha. As I have said, there is a certain
+lack of humane myth and mysticism about this Puritan peasantry. But we
+could see him transforming the maize into pop-corn, which is a very
+pleasant domestic ritual and pastime, and is the American equivalent of
+the glory of roasting chestnuts. Above all, many of us would learn for
+the first time that a man can really live and walk about upon something
+more productive than a pavement; and that when he does so he can really
+be a free man, and have no lord but the law. Instead of that, America
+can give nothing to London but those multiple modern shops, of which it
+has too many already. I know that many people entertain the innocent
+illusion that big shops are more efficient than small ones; but that is
+only because the big combinations have the monopoly of advertisement as
+well as trade. The big shop is not in the least remarkable for
+efficiency; it is only too big to be blamed for its inefficiency. It is
+secure in its reputation for always sacking the wrong man. A big shop,
+considered as a place to shop in, is simply a village of small shops
+roofed in to keep out the light and air; and one in which none of the
+shopkeepers is really responsible for his shop. If any one has any
+doubts on this matter, since I have mentioned it, let him consider this
+fact: that in practice we never do apply this method of commercial
+combination to anything that matters very much. We do not go to the
+surgical department of the Stores to have a portion of our brain removed
+by a delicate operation; and then pass on to the advocacy department to
+employ one or any of its barristers, when we are in temporary danger of
+being hanged. We go to men who own their own tools and are responsible
+for the use of their own talents. And the same truth applies to that
+other modern method of advertisement, which has also so largely fallen
+across us like the gigantic shadow of America. Nations do not arm
+themselves for a mortal struggle by remembering which sort of submarine
+they have seen most often on the hoardings. They can do it about
+something like soap, precisely because a nation will not perish by
+having a second-rate sort of soap, as it might by having a second-rate
+sort of submarine. A nation may indeed perish slowly by having a
+second-rate sort of food or drink or medicine; but that is another and
+much longer story, and the story is not ended yet. But nobody wins a
+great battle at a great crisis because somebody has told him that
+Cadgerboy's Cavalry Is the Best. It may be that commercial enterprise
+will eventually cover these fields also, and advertisement-agents will
+provide the instruments of the surgeon and the weapons of the soldier.
+When that happens, the armies will be defeated and the patients will
+die. But though we modern people are indeed patients, in the sense of
+being merely receptive and accepting things with astonishing patience,
+we are not dead yet; and we have lingering gleams of sanity.
+
+For the best things do not travel. As I appear here as a traveller, I
+may say with all modesty that the best people do not travel either. Both
+in England and America the normal people are the national people; and I
+repeat that I think they are growing more and more national. I do not
+think the abyss is being bridged by cosmopolitan theories; and I am sure
+I do not want it bridged by all this slang journalism and blatant
+advertisement. I have called all that commercial publicity the gigantic
+shadow of America. It may be the shadow of America, but it is not the
+light of America. The light lies far beyond, a level light upon the
+lands of sunset, where it shines upon wide places full of a very simple
+and a very happy people; and those who would see it must seek for it.
+
+
+
+
+_Lincoln and Lost Causes_
+
+
+It has already been remarked here that the English know a great deal
+about past American literature, but nothing about past American history.
+They do not know either, of course, as well as they know the present
+American advertising, which is the least important of the three. But it
+is worth noting once more how little they know of the history, and how
+illogically that little is chosen. They have heard, no doubt, of the
+fame and the greatness of Henry Clay. He is a cigar. But it would be
+unwise to cross-examine any Englishman, who may be consuming that luxury
+at the moment, about the Missouri Compromise or the controversies with
+Andrew Jackson. And just as the statesman of Kentucky is a cigar, so the
+state of Virginia is a cigarette. But there is perhaps one exception, or
+half-exception, to this simple plan. It would perhaps be an exaggeration
+to say that Plymouth Rock is a chicken. Any English person keeping
+chickens, and chiefly interested in Plymouth Rocks considered as
+chickens, would nevertheless have a hazy sensation of having seen the
+word somewhere before. He would feel subconsciously that the Plymouth
+Rock had not always been a chicken. Indeed, the name connotes something
+not only solid but antiquated; and is not therefore a very tactful name
+for a chicken. There would rise up before him something memorable in
+the haze that he calls his history; and he would see the history books
+of his boyhood and old engravings of men in steeple-crowned hats
+struggling with sea-waves or Red Indians. The whole thing would suddenly
+become clear to him if (by a simple reform) the chickens were called
+Pilgrim Fathers.
+
+Then he would remember all about it. The Pilgrim Fathers were champions
+of religious liberty; and they discovered America. It is true that he
+has also heard of a man called Christopher Columbus; but that was in
+connection with an egg. He has also heard of somebody known as Sir
+Walter Raleigh; and though his principal possession was a cloak, it is
+also true that he had a potato, not to mention a pipe of tobacco. Can it
+be possible that he brought it from Virginia, where the cigarettes come
+from? Gradually the memories will come back and fit themselves together
+for the average hen-wife who learnt history at the English elementary
+schools, and who has now something better to do. Even when the narrative
+becomes consecutive, it will not necessarily become correct. It is not
+strictly true to say that the Pilgrim Fathers discovered America. But it
+is quite as true as saying that they were champions of religious
+liberty. If we said that they were martyrs who would have died
+heroically in torments rather than tolerate any religious liberty, we
+should be talking something like sense about them, and telling the real
+truth that is their due. The whole Puritan movement, from the Solemn
+League and Covenant to the last stand of the last Stuarts, was a
+struggle _against_ religious toleration, or what they would have called
+religious indifference. The first religious equality on earth was
+established by a Catholic cavalier in Maryland. Now there is nothing in
+this to diminish any dignity that belongs to any real virtues and
+virilities in the Pilgrim Fathers; on the contrary, it is rather to the
+credit of their consistency and conviction. But there is no doubt that
+the note of their whole experiment in New England was intolerance, and
+even inquisition. And there is no doubt that New England was then only
+the newest and not the oldest of these colonial experiments. At least
+two Cavaliers had been in the field before any Puritans. And they had
+carried with them much more of the atmosphere and nature of the normal
+Englishman than any Puritan could possibly carry. They had established
+it especially in Virginia, which had been founded by a great Elizabethan
+and named after the great Elizabeth. Before there was any New England in
+the North, there was something very like Old England in the South.
+Relatively speaking, there is still.
+
+Whenever the anniversary of the _Mayflower_ comes round, there is a
+chorus of Anglo-American congratulation and comradeship, as if this at
+least were a matter on which all can agree. But I knew enough about
+America, even before I went there, to know that there are a good many
+people there at any rate who do not agree with it. Long ago I wrote a
+protest in which I asked why Englishmen had forgotten the great state of
+Virginia, the first in foundation and long the first in leadership; and
+why a few crabbed Nonconformists should have the right to erase a record
+that begins with Raleigh and ends with Lee, and incidentally includes
+Washington. The great state of Virginia was the backbone of America
+until it was broken in the Civil War. From Virginia came the first great
+Presidents and most of the Fathers of the Republic. Its adherence to
+the Southern side in the war made it a great war, and for a long time a
+doubtful war. And in the leader of the Southern armies it produced what
+is perhaps the one modern figure that may come to shine like St. Louis
+in the lost battle, or Hector dying before holy Troy.
+
+Again, it is characteristic that while the modern English know nothing
+about Lee they do know something about Lincoln; and nearly all that they
+know is wrong. They know nothing of his Southern connections, nothing of
+his considerable Southern sympathy, nothing of the meaning of his
+moderation in face of the problem of slavery, now lightly treated as
+self-evident. Above all, they know nothing about the respect in which
+Lincoln was quite un-English, was indeed the very reverse of English;
+and can be understood better if we think of him as a Frenchman, since it
+seems so hard for some of us to believe that he was an American. I mean
+his lust for logic for its own sake, and the way he kept mathematical
+truths in his mind like the fixed stars. He was so far from being a
+merely practical man, impatient of academic abstractions, that he
+reviewed and revelled in academic abstractions, even while he could not
+apply them to practical life. He loved to repeat that slavery was
+intolerable while he tolerated it, and to prove that something ought to
+be done while it was impossible to do it. This was probably very
+bewildering to his brother-politicians; for politicians always whitewash
+what they do not destroy. But for all that this inconsistent consistency
+beat the politicians at their own game, and this abstracted logic proved
+the most practical of all. For when the chance did come to do something,
+there was no doubt about the thing to be done. The thunderbolt fell
+from the clear heights of heaven; it had not been tossed about and lost
+like a common missile in the market-place. The matter is worth
+mentioning, because it has a moral for a much larger modern question. A
+wise man's attitude towards industrial capitalism will be very like
+Lincoln's attitude towards slavery. That is, he will manage to endure
+capitalism; but he will not endure a defence of capitalism. He will
+recognise the value, not only of knowing what he is doing, but of
+knowing what he would like to do. He will recognise the importance of
+having a thing clearly labelled in his own mind as bad, long before the
+opportunity comes to abolish it. He may recognise the risk of even worse
+things in immediate abolition, as Lincoln did in abolitionism. He will
+not call all business men brutes, any more than Lincoln would call all
+planters demons; because he knows they are not. He will regard many
+alternatives to capitalism as crude and inhuman, as Lincoln regarded
+John Brown's raid; because they are. But he will clear his _mind_ from
+cant about capitalism; he will have no doubt of what is the truth about
+Trusts and Trade Combines and the concentration of capital; and it is
+the truth that they endure under one of the ironic silences of heaven,
+over the pageants and the passing triumphs of hell.
+
+But the name of Lincoln has a more immediate reference to the
+international matters I am considering here. His name has been much
+invoked by English politicians and journalists in connection with the
+quarrel with Ireland. And if we study the matter, we shall hardly admire
+the tact and sagacity of those journalists and politicians.
+
+History is an eternal tangle of cross-purposes; and we could not take a
+clearer case, or rather a more complicated case, of such a tangle, than
+the facts lying behind a political parallel recently mentioned by many
+politicians. I mean the parallel between the movement for Irish
+independence and the attempted secession of the Southern Confederacy in
+America. Superficially any one might say that the comparison is natural
+enough; and that there is much in common between the quarrel of the
+North and South in Ireland and the quarrel of the North and South in
+America. In both cases the South was on the whole agricultural, the
+North on the whole industrial. True, the parallel exaggerates the
+position of Belfast; to complete it we must suppose the whole Federal
+system to have consisted of Pittsburg. In both the side that was more
+successful was felt by many to be less attractive. In both the same
+political terms were used, such as the term 'Union' and 'Unionism.' An
+ordinary Englishman comes to America, knowing these main lines of
+American history, and knowing that the American knows the similar main
+lines of Irish history. He knows that there are strong champions of
+Ireland in America; possibly he also knows that there are very genuine
+champions of England in America. By every possible historical analogy,
+he would naturally expect to find the pro-Irish in the South and the
+pro-English in the North. As a matter of fact, he finds almost exactly
+the opposite. He finds Boston governed by Irishmen, and Nashville
+containing people more pro-English than Englishmen. He finds Virginians
+not only of British blood, like George Washington, but of British
+opinions almost worthy of George the Third.
+
+But I do not say this, as will be seen in a moment, as a criticism of
+the comparative Toryism of the South. I say it as a criticism of the
+superlative stupidity of English propaganda. On another page I remark on
+the need for a new sort of English propaganda; a propaganda that should
+be really English and have some remote reference to England. Now if it
+were a matter of making foreigners feel the real humours and humanities
+of England, there are no Americans so able or willing to do it as the
+Americans of the Southern States. As I have already hinted, some of them
+are so loyal to the English humanities, that they think it their duty to
+defend even the English inhumanities. New England is turning into New
+Ireland. But Old England can still be faintly traced in Old Dixie. It
+contains some of the best things that England herself has had, and
+therefore (of course) the things that England herself has lost, or is
+trying to lose. But above all, as I have said, there are people in these
+places whose historic memories and family traditions really hold them to
+us, not by alliance but by affection. Indeed, they have the affection in
+spite of the alliance. They love us in spite of our compliments and
+courtesies and hands across the sea; all our ambassadorial salutations
+and speeches cannot kill their love. They manage even to respect us in
+spite of the shady Jew stockbrokers we send them as English envoys, or
+the 'efficient' men, who are sent out to be tactful with foreigners
+because they have been too tactless with trades unionists. This type of
+traditional American, North or South, really has some traditions
+connecting him with England; and though he is now in a very small
+minority, I cannot imagine why England should wish to make it smaller.
+England once sympathised with the South. The South still sympathises
+with England. It would seem that the South, or some elements in the
+South, had rather the advantage of us in political firmness and
+fidelity; but it does not follow that that fidelity will stand every
+shock. And at this moment, and in this matter, of all things in the
+world, our political propagandists must try to bolster British
+Imperialism up, by kicking Southern Secession when it is down. The
+English politicians eagerly point out that we shall be justified in
+crushing Ireland exactly as Sumner and Stevens crushed the most English
+part of America. It does not seem to occur to them that this comparison
+between the Unionist triumph in America and a Unionist triumph in
+Britain is rather hard upon our particular sympathisers, who did not
+triumph. When England exults in Lincoln's victory over his foes, she is
+exulting in his victory over her own friends. If her diplomacy continues
+as delicate and chivalrous as it is at present, they may soon be her
+only friends. England will be defending herself at the expense of her
+only defenders. But however this may be, it is as well to bear witness
+to some of the elements of my own experience; and I can answer for it,
+at least, that there are some people in the South who will not be
+pleased at being swept into the rubbish heap of history as rebels and
+ruffians; and who will not, I regret to say, by any means enjoy even
+being classed with Fenians and Sinn Feiners.
+
+Now touching the actual comparison between the conquest of the
+Confederacy and the conquest of Ireland, there are, of course, a good
+many things to be said which politicians cannot be expected to
+understand. Strange to say, it is not certain that a lost cause was
+never worth winning; and it would be easy to argue that the world lost
+very much indeed when that particular cause was lost. These are not days
+in which it is exactly obvious that an agricultural society was more
+dangerous than an industrial one. And even Southern slavery had this one
+moral merit, that it was decadent; it has this one historic advantage,
+that it is dead. The Northern slavery, industrial slavery, or what is
+called wage slavery, is not decaying but increasing; and the end of it
+is not yet. But in any case, it would be well for us to realise that the
+reproach of resembling the Confederacy does not ring in all ears as an
+unanswerable condemnation. It is scarcely a self-evident or sufficient
+argument, to some hearers, even to prove that the English are as
+delicate and philanthropic as Sherman, still less that the Irish are as
+criminal and lawless as Lee. Nor will it soothe every single soul on the
+American continent to say that the English victory in Ireland will be
+followed by a reconstruction, like the reconstruction exhibited in the
+film called 'The Birth of a Nation.' And, indeed, there is a further
+inference from that fine panorama of the exploits of the Ku-Klux Klan.
+It would be easy, as I say, to turn the argument entirely in favour of
+the Confederacy. It would be easy to draw the moral, not that the
+Southern Irish are as wrong as the Southern States, but that the
+Southern States were as right as the Southern Irish. But upon the whole,
+I do not incline to accept the parallel in that sense any more than in
+the opposite sense. For reasons I have already given elsewhere, I do
+believe that in the main Abraham Lincoln was right. But right in what?
+
+If Lincoln was right, he was right in guessing that there was not
+really a Northern nation and a Southern nation, but only one American
+nation. And if he has been proved right, he has been proved right by the
+fact that men in the South, as well as the North, do now feel a
+patriotism for that American nation. His wisdom, if it really was
+wisdom, was justified not by his opponents being conquered, but by their
+being converted. Now, if the English politicians must insist on this
+parallel, they ought to see that the parallel is fatal to themselves.
+The very test which proved Lincoln right has proved them wrong. The very
+judgment which may have justified him quite unquestionably condemns
+them. We have again and again conquered Ireland, and have never come an
+inch nearer to converting Ireland. We have had not one Gettysburg, but
+twenty Gettysburgs; but we have had no Union. And that is where, as I
+have remarked, it is relevant to remember that flying fantastic vision
+on the films that told so many people what no histories have told them.
+I heard when I was in America rumours of the local reappearance of the
+Ku-Klux Klan; but the smallness and mildness of the manifestation, as
+compared with the old Southern or the new Irish case, is alone a
+sufficient example of the exception that proves the rule. To approximate
+to any resemblance to recent Irish events, we must imagine the Ku-Klux
+Klan riding again in more than the terrors of that vision, wild as the
+wind, white as the moon, terrible as an army with banners. If there were
+really such a revival of the Southern action, there would equally be a
+revival of the Southern argument. It would be clear that Lee was right
+and Lincoln was wrong; that the Southern States were national and were
+as indestructible as nations. If the South were as rebellious as
+Ireland, the North would be as wrong as England.
+
+But I desire a new English diplomacy that will exhibit, not the things
+in which England is wrong but the things in which England is right. And
+England is right in England, just as she is wrong in Ireland; and it is
+exactly that rightness of a real nation in itself that it is at once
+most difficult and most desirable to explain to foreigners. Now the
+Irishman, and to some extent the American, has remained alien to
+England, largely because he does not truly realise that the Englishman
+loves England, still less can he really imagine why the Englishman loves
+England. That is why I insist on the stupidity of ignoring and insulting
+the opinions of those few Virginians and other Southerners who really
+have some inherited notion of why Englishmen love England; and even love
+it in something of the same fashion themselves. Politicians who do not
+know the English spirit when they see it at home, cannot of course be
+expected to recognise it abroad. Publicists are eloquently praising
+Abraham Lincoln, for all the wrong reasons; but fundamentally for that
+worst and vilest of all reasons--that he succeeded. None of them seems
+to have the least notion of how to look for England in England; and they
+would see something fantastic in the figure of a traveller who found it
+elsewhere, or anywhere but in New England. And it is well, perhaps, that
+they have not yet found England where it is hidden in England; for if
+they found it, they would kill it.
+
+All I am concerned to consider here is the inevitable failure of this
+sort of Anglo-American propaganda to create a friendship. To praise
+Lincoln as an Englishman is about as appropriate as if we were praising
+Lincoln as an English town. We are talking about something totally
+different. And indeed the whole conversation is rather like some such
+cross-purposes about some such word as 'Lincoln'; in which one party
+should be talking about the President and the other about the cathedral.
+It is like some wild bewilderment in a farce, with one man wondering how
+a President could have a church-spire, and the other wondering how a
+church could have a chin-beard. And the moral is the moral on which I
+would insist everywhere in this book; that the remedy is to be found in
+disentangling the two and not in entangling them further. You could not
+produce a democrat of the logical type of Lincoln merely out of the
+moral materials that now make up an English cathedral town, like that on
+which Old Tom of Lincoln looks down. But on the other hand, it is quite
+certain that a hundred Abraham Lincolns, working for a hundred years,
+could not build Lincoln Cathedral. And the farcical allegory of an
+attempt to make Old Tom and Old Abe embrace to the glory of the
+illogical Anglo-Saxon language is but a symbol of something that is
+always being attempted, and always attempted in vain. It is not by
+mutual imitation that the understanding can come. It is not by erecting
+New York sky-scrapers in London that New York can learn the sacred
+significance of the towers of Lincoln. It is not by English dukes
+importing the daughters of American millionaires that England can get
+any glimpse of the democratic dignity of American men. I have the best
+of all reasons for knowing that a stranger can be welcomed in America;
+and just as he is courteously treated in the country as a stranger, so
+he should always be careful to treat it as a strange land. That sort of
+imaginative respect, as for something different and even distant, is the
+only beginning of any attachment between patriotic peoples. The English
+traveller may carry with him at least one word of his own great language
+and literature; and whenever he is inclined to say of anything 'This is
+passing strange,' he may remember that it was no inconsiderable
+Englishman who appended to it the answer, 'And therefore as a stranger
+give it welcome.'
+
+
+
+
+_Wells and the World State_
+
+
+There was recently a highly distinguished gathering to celebrate the
+past, present, and especially future triumphs of aviation. Some of the
+most brilliant men of the age, such as Mr. H. G. Wells and Mr. J. L.
+Garvin, made interesting and important speeches, and many scientific
+aviators luminously discussed the new science. Among their graceful
+felicitations and grave and quiet analyses a word was said, or a note
+was struck, which I myself can never hear, even in the most harmless
+after-dinner speech, without an impulse to leap up and yell, and smash
+the decanters and wreck the dinner-table.
+
+Long ago, when I was a boy, I heard it with fury; and never since have I
+been able to understand any free man hearing it without fury. I heard it
+when Bloch, and the old prophets of pacifism by panic, preached that war
+would become too horrible for patriots to endure. It sounded to me like
+saying that an instrument of torture was being prepared by my dentist,
+that would finally cure me of loving my dog. And I felt it again when
+all these wise and well-meaning persons began to talk about the
+inevitable effect of aviation in bridging the Atlantic, and establishing
+alliance and affection between England and America.
+
+I resent the suggestion that a machine can make me bad. But I resent
+quite equally the suggestion that a machine can make me good. It might
+be the unfortunate fact that a coolness had arisen between myself and
+Mr. Fitzarlington Blenkinsop, inhabiting the suburban villa and garden
+next to mine; and I might even be largely to blame for it. But if
+somebody told me that a new kind of lawn-mower had just been invented,
+of so cunning a structure that I should be forced to become a
+bosom-friend of Mr. Blenkinsop whether I liked it or not, I should be
+very much annoyed. I should be moved to say that if that was the only
+way of cutting my grass I would not cut my grass, but continue to cut my
+neighbour. Or suppose the difference were even less defensible; suppose
+a man had suffered from a trifling shindy with his wife. And suppose
+somebody told him that the introduction of an entirely new
+vacuum-cleaner would compel him to a reluctant reconciliation with his
+wife. It would be found, I fancy, that human nature abhors that vacuum.
+Reasonably spirited human beings will not be ordered about by bicycles
+and sewing-machines; and a sane man will not be made good, let alone
+bad, by the things he has himself made. I have occasionally dictated to
+a typewriter, but I will not be dictated to by a typewriter, even of the
+newest and most complicated mechanism; nor have I ever met a typewriter,
+however complex, that attempted such a tyranny.
+
+Yet this and nothing else is what is implied in all such talk of the
+aeroplane annihilating distinctions as well as distances; and an
+international aviation abolishing nationalities. This and nothing else
+was really implied in one speaker's prediction that such aviation will
+almost necessitate an Anglo-American friendship. Incidentally, I may
+remark, it is not a true suggestion even in the practical and
+materialistic sense; and the speaker's phrase refuted the speaker's
+argument. He said that international relations must be more friendly
+when men can get from England to America in a day. Well, men can already
+get from England to Germany in a day; and the result was a mutual
+invitation of which the formalities lasted for five years. Men could get
+from the coast of England to the coast of France very quickly, through
+nearly all the ages during which those two coasts were bristling with
+arms against each other. They could get there very quickly when Nelson
+went down by that Burford Inn to embark for Trafalgar; they could get
+there very quickly when Napoleon sat in his tent in that camp at
+Boulogne that filled England with alarums of invasion. Are these the
+amiable and pacific relations which will unite England and America, when
+Englishmen can get to America in a day? The shortening of the distance
+seems quite as likely, so far as that argument goes, to facilitate that
+endless guerilla warfare which raged across the narrow seas in the
+Middle Ages; when French invaders carried away the bells of Rye, and the
+men of those flats of East Sussex gloriously pursued and recovered them.
+I do not know whether American privateers, landing at Liverpool, would
+carry away a few of the more elegant factory chimneys as a substitute
+for the superstitious symbols of the past. I know not if the English, on
+ripe reflection, would essay with any enthusiasm to get them back. But
+anyhow it is anything but self-evident that people cannot fight each
+other because they are near to each other; and if it were true, there
+would never have been any such thing as border warfare in the world. As
+a fact, border warfare has often been the one sort of warfare which it
+was most difficult to bring under control. And our own traditional
+position in face of this new logic is somewhat disconcerting. We have
+always supposed ourselves safer because we were insular and therefore
+isolated. We have been congratulating ourselves for centuries on having
+enjoyed peace because we were cut off from our neighbours. And now they
+are telling us that we shall only enjoy peace when we are joined up with
+our neighbours. We have pitied the poor nations with frontiers, because
+a frontier only produces fighting; and now we are trusting to a frontier
+as the only thing that will produce friendship. But, as a matter of
+fact, and for a far deeper and more spiritual reason, a frontier will
+not produce friendship. Only friendliness produces friendship. And we
+must look far deeper into the soul of man for the thing that produces
+friendliness.
+
+But apart from this fallacy about the facts, I feel, as I say, a strong
+abstract anger against the idea, or what some would call the ideal. If
+it were true that men could be taught and tamed by machines, even if
+they were taught wisdom or tamed to amiability, I should think it the
+most tragic truth in the world. A man so improved would be, in an
+exceedingly ugly sense, losing his soul to save it. But in truth he
+cannot be so completely coerced into good; and in so far as he is
+incompletely coerced, he is quite as likely to be coerced into evil. Of
+the financial characters who figure as philanthropists and philosophers
+in such cases, it is strictly true to say that their good is evil. The
+light in their bodies is darkness, and the highest objects of such men
+are the lowest objects of ordinary men. Their peace is mere safety,
+their friendship is mere trade; their international friendship is mere
+international trade. The best we can say of that school of capitalism is
+that it will be unsuccessful. It has every other vice, but it is not
+practical. It has at least the impossibility of idealism; and so far as
+remoteness can carry it, that Inferno is indeed a Utopia. All the
+visible manifestations of these men are materialistic; but at least
+their visions will not materialise. The worst we suffer; but the best we
+shall at any rate escape. We may continue to endure the realities of
+cosmopolitan capitalism; but we shall be spared its ideals.
+
+But I am not primarily interested in the plutocrats whose vision takes
+so vulgar a form. I am interested in the same thing when it takes a far
+more subtle form, in men of genius and genuine social enthusiasm like
+Mr. H. G. Wells. It would be very unfair to a man like Mr. Wells to
+suggest that in his vision the Englishman and the American are to
+embrace only in the sense of clinging to each other in terror. He is a
+man who understands what friendship is, and who knows how to enjoy the
+motley humours of humanity. But the political reconstruction which he
+proposes is too much determined by this old nightmare of
+necessitarianism. He tells us that our national dignities and
+differences must be melted into the huge mould of a World State, or else
+(and I think these are almost his own words) we shall be destroyed by
+the instruments and machinery we have ourselves made. In effect, men
+must abandon patriotism or they will be murdered by science. After this,
+surely no one can accuse Mr. Wells of an undue tenderness for scientific
+over other types of training. Greek may be a good thing or no; but
+nobody says that if Greek scholarship is carried past a certain point,
+everybody will be torn in pieces like Orpheus, or burned up like Semele,
+or poisoned like Socrates. Philosophy, theology and logic may or may not
+be idle academic studies; but nobody supposes that the study of
+philosophy, or even of theology, ultimately forces its students to
+manufacture racks and thumb-screws against their will; or that even
+logicians need be so alarmingly logical as all that. Science seems to be
+the only branch of study in which people have to be waved back from
+perfection as from a pestilence. But my business is not with the
+scientific dangers which alarm Mr. Wells, but with the remedy he
+proposes for them; or rather with the relation of that remedy to the
+foundation and the future of America. Now it is not too much to say that
+Mr. Wells finds his model in America. The World State is to be the
+United States of the World. He answers almost all objections to the
+practicability of such a peace among states, by pointing out that the
+American States have such a peace, and by adding, truly enough, that
+another turn of history might easily have seen them broken up by war.
+The pattern of the World State is to be found in the New World.
+
+Oddly enough, as it seems to me, he proposes almost cosmic conquests for
+the American Constitution, while leaving out the most successful thing
+in that Constitution. The point appeared in answer to a question which
+many, like myself, must have put in this matter; the question of
+despotism and democracy. I cannot understand any democrat not seeing the
+danger of so distant and indirect a system of government. It is hard
+enough anywhere to get representatives to represent. It is hard enough
+to get a little town council to fulfil the wishes of a little town,
+even when the townsmen meet the town councillors every day in the
+street, and could kick them down the street if they liked. What the same
+town councillors would be like if they were ruling all their
+fellow-creatures from the North Pole or the New Jerusalem, is a vision
+of Oriental despotism beyond the towering fancies of Tamberlane. This
+difficulty in all representative government is felt everywhere, and not
+least in America. But I think that if there is one truth apparent in
+such a choice of evils, it is that monarchy is at least better than
+oligarchy; and that where we have to act on a large scale, the most
+genuine popularity can gather round a particular person like a Pope or a
+President of the United States, or even a dictator like Caesar or
+Napoleon, rather than round a more or less corrupt committee which can
+only be defined as an obscure oligarchy. And in that sense any oligarchy
+is obscure. For people to continue to trust twenty-seven men it is
+necessary, as a preliminary formality, that people should have heard of
+them. And there are no twenty-seven men of whom everybody has heard as
+everybody in France had heard of Napoleon, as all Catholics have heard
+of the Pope or all Americans have heard of the President. I think the
+mass of ordinary Americans do really elect their President; and even
+where they cannot control him at least they watch him, and in the long
+run they judge him. I think, therefore, that the American Constitution
+has a real popular institution in the Presidency. But Mr. Wells would
+appear to want the American Constitution without the Presidency. If I
+understand his words rightly, he seems to want the great democracy
+without its popular institution. Alluding to this danger, that the
+World State might be a world tyranny, he seems to take tyranny entirely
+in the sense of autocracy. He asks whether the President of the World
+State would not be rather too tremendous a person, and seems to suggest
+in answer that there need not even be any such person. He seems to imply
+that the committee controlling the planet could meet almost without any
+one in the chair, certainly without any one on the throne. I cannot
+imagine anything more manifestly made to be a tyranny than such an
+acephalous aristocracy. But while Mr. Wells's decision seems to me
+strange, his reason for it seems to me still more extraordinary.
+
+He suggests that no such dictator will be needed in his World State
+because 'there will be no wars and no diplomacy.' A World State ought
+doubtless to go round the world; and going round the world seems to be a
+good training for arguing in a circle. Obviously there will be no wars
+and no war-diplomacy if something has the power to prevent them; and we
+cannot deduce that the something will not want any power. It is rather
+as if somebody, urging that the Germans could only be defeated by
+uniting the Allied commands under Marshal Foch, had said that after all
+it need not offend the British Generals because the French supremacy
+need only be a fiction, the Germans being defeated. We should naturally
+say that the German defeat would only be a reality because the Allied
+command was not a fiction. So the universal peace would only be a
+reality if the World State were not a fiction. And it could not be even
+a state if it were not a government. This argument amounts to saying,
+first that the World State will be needed because it is strong, and
+then that it may safely be weak because it will not be needed.
+
+Internationalism is in any case hostile to democracy. I do not say it is
+incompatible with it; but any combination of the two will be a
+compromise between the two. The only purely popular government is local,
+and founded on local knowledge. The citizens can rule the city because
+they know the city; but it will always be an exceptional sort of citizen
+who has or claims the right to rule over ten cities, and these remote
+and altogether alien cities. All Irishmen may know roughly the same sort
+of things about Ireland; but it is absurd to say they all know the same
+things about Iceland, when they may include a scholar steeped in
+Icelandic sagas or a sailor who has been to Iceland. To make all
+politics cosmopolitan is to create an aristocracy of globe-trotters. If
+your political outlook really takes in the Cannibal Islands, you depend
+of necessity upon a superior and picked minority of the people who have
+been to the Cannibal Islands; or rather of the still smaller and more
+select minority who have come back.
+
+Given this difficulty about quite direct democracy over large areas, I
+think the nearest thing to democracy is despotism. At any rate I think
+it is some sort of more or less independent monarchy, such as Andrew
+Jackson created in America. And I believe it is true to say that the two
+men whom the modern world really and almost reluctantly regards with
+impersonal respect, as clothed by their office with something historic
+and honourable, are the Pope and the President of the United States.
+
+But to admire the United States as the United States is one thing. To
+admire them as the World State is quite another. The attempt of Mr.
+Wells to make America a sort of model for the federation of all the free
+nations of the earth, though it is international in intention, is really
+as narrowly national, in the bad sense, as the desire of Mr. Kipling to
+cover the world with British Imperialism, or of Professor Treitschke to
+cover it with Prussian Pan-Germanism. Not being schoolboys, we no longer
+believe that everything can be settled by painting the map red. Nor do I
+believe it can be done by painting it blue with white spots, even if
+they are called stars. The insufficiency of British Imperialism does not
+lie in the fact that it has always been applied by force of arms. As a
+matter of fact, it has not. It has been effected largely by commerce, by
+colonisation of comparatively empty places, by geographical discovery
+and diplomatic bargain. Whether it be regarded as praise or blame, it is
+certainly the truth that among all the things that have called
+themselves empires, the British has been perhaps the least purely
+military, and has least both of the special guilt and the special glory
+that goes with militarism. The insufficiency of British Imperialism is
+not that it is imperial, let alone military. The insufficiency of
+British Imperialism is that it is British; when it is not merely Jewish.
+It is that just as a man is no more than a man, so a nation is no more
+than a nation; and any nation is inadequate as an international model.
+Any state looks small when it occupies the whole earth. Any polity is
+narrow as soon as it is as wide as the world. It would be just the same
+if Ireland began to paint the map green or Montenegro were to paint it
+black. The objection to spreading anything all over the world is that,
+among other things, you have to spread it very thin.
+
+But America, which Mr. Wells takes as a model, is in another sense
+rather a warning. Mr. Wells says very truly that there was a moment in
+history when America might well have broken up into independent states
+like those of Europe. He seems to take it for granted that it was in all
+respects an advantage that this was avoided. Yet there is surely a case,
+however mildly we put it, for a certain importance in the world still
+attaching to Europe. There are some who find France as interesting as
+Florida; and who think they can learn as much about history and humanity
+in the marble cities of the Mediterranean as in the wooden towns of the
+Middle West. Europe may have been divided, but it was certainly not
+destroyed; nor has its peculiar position in the culture of the world
+been destroyed. Nothing has yet appeared capable of completely eclipsing
+it, either in its extension in America or its imitation in Japan. But
+the immediate point here is perhaps a more important one. There is now
+no creed accepted as embodying the common sense of all Europe, as the
+Catholic creed was accepted as embodying it in mediaeval times. There is
+no culture broadly superior to all others, as the Mediterranean culture
+was superior to that of the barbarians in Roman times. If Europe were
+united in modern times, it would probably be by the victory of one of
+its types over others, possibly over all the others. And when America
+was united finally in the nineteenth century, it _was_ by the victory of
+one of its types over others. It is not yet certain that this victory
+was a good thing. It is not yet certain that the world will be better
+for the triumph of the North over the Southern traditions of America.
+It may yet turn out to be as unfortunate as a triumph of the North
+Germans over the Southern traditions of Germany and of Europe.
+
+The men who will not face this fact are men whose minds are not free.
+They are more crushed by Progress than any pietists by Providence. They
+are not allowed to question that whatever has recently happened was all
+for the best. Now Progress is Providence without God. That is, it is a
+theory that everything has always perpetually gone right by accident. It
+is a sort of atheistic optimism, based on an everlasting coincidence far
+more miraculous than a miracle. If there be no purpose, or if the
+purpose permits of human free will, then in either case it is almost
+insanely unlikely that there should be in history a period of steady and
+uninterrupted progress; or in other words a period in which poor
+bewildered humanity moves amid a chaos of complications, without making
+a single mistake. What has to be hammered into the heads of most normal
+newspaper-readers to-day is that Man has made a great many mistakes.
+Modern Man has made a great many mistakes. Indeed, in the case of that
+progressive and pioneering character, one is sometimes tempted to say
+that he has made nothing but mistakes. Calvinism was a mistake, and
+Capitalism was a mistake, and Teutonism and the flattery of the Northern
+tribes were mistakes. In the French the persecution of Catholicism by
+the politicians was a mistake, as they found out in the Great War; when
+the memory gave Irish or Italian Catholics an excuse for hanging back.
+In England the loss of agriculture and therefore of food-supply in war,
+and the power to stand a siege, was a mistake. And in America the
+introduction of the negroes was a mistake; but it may yet be found that
+the sacrifice of the Southern white man to them was even more of a
+mistake.
+
+The reason of this doubt is in one word. We have not yet seen the end of
+the whole industrial experiment; and there are already signs of it
+coming to a bad end. It may end in Bolshevism. It is more likely to end
+in the Servile State. Indeed, the two things are not so different as
+some suppose, and they grow less different every day. The Bolshevists
+have already called in Capitalists to help them to crush the free
+peasants. The Capitalists are quite likely to call in Labour Leaders to
+whitewash their compromise as social reform or even Socialism. The
+cosmopolitan Jews who are the Communists in the East will not find it so
+very hard to make a bargain with the cosmopolitan Jews who are
+Capitalists in the West. The Western Jews would be willing to admit a
+nominal Socialism. The Eastern Jews have already admitted that their
+Socialism is nominal. It was the Bolshevist leader himself who said,
+'Russia is again a Capitalist country.' But whoever makes the bargain,
+and whatever is its precise character, the substance of it will be
+servile. It will be servile in the only rational and reliable sense;
+that is, an arrangement by which a mass of men are ensured shelter and
+livelihood, in return for being subjected to a law which obliges them to
+continue to labour. Of course it will not be called the Servile State;
+it is very probable that it will be called the Socialist State. But
+nobody seems to realise how very near all the industrial countries are
+to it. At any moment it may appear in the simple form of compulsory
+arbitration; for compulsory arbitration dealing with private employers
+is by definition slavery. When workmen receive unemployment pay, and at
+the same time arouse more and more irritation by going on strike, it may
+seem very natural to give them the unemployment pay for good and forbid
+them the strike for good; and the combination of those two things is by
+definition slavery. And Trotsky can beat any Trust magnate as a
+strike-breaker; for he does not even pretend that his compulsory labour
+is a free bargain. If Trotsky and the Trust magnate come to a working
+compromise, that compromise will be a Servile State. But it will also be
+the supreme and by far the most constructive and conclusive result of
+the industrial movement in history; of the power of machinery or money;
+of the huge populations of the modern cities; of scientific inventions
+and resources; of all the things before which the agricultural society
+of the Southern Confederacy went down. But even those who cannot see
+that commercialism may end in the triumph of slavery can see that the
+Northern victory has to a great extent ended in the triumph of
+commercialism. And the point at the moment is that this did definitely
+mean, even at the time, the triumph of one American type over another
+American type; just as much as any European war might mean the triumph
+of one European type over another. A victory of England over France
+would be a victory of merchants over peasants; and the victory of
+Northerners over Southerners was a victory of merchants over squires. So
+that that very unity, which Mr. Wells contrasts so favourably with war,
+was not only itself due to a war, but to a war which had one of the most
+questionable and even perilous of the results of war. That result was a
+change in the balance of power, the predominance of a particular
+partner, the exaltation of a particular example, the eclipse of
+excellent traditions when the defeated lost their international
+influence. In short, it made exactly the same sort of difference of
+which we speak when we say that 1870 was a disaster to Europe, or that
+it was necessary to fight Prussia lest she should Prussianise the whole
+world. America would have been very different if the leadership had
+remained with Virginia. The world would have been very different if
+America had been very different. It is quite reasonable to rejoice that
+the issue went as it did; indeed, as I have explained elsewhere, for
+other reasons I do on the whole rejoice in it. But it is certainly not
+self-evident that it is a matter for rejoicing. One type of American
+state conquered and subjugated another type of American state; and the
+virtues and value of the latter were very largely lost to the world. So
+if Mr. Wells insists on the parallel of a United States of Europe, he
+must accept the parallel of a Civil War of Europe. He must suppose that
+the peasant countries crush the industrial countries or vice versa; and
+that one or other of them becomes the European tradition to the neglect
+of the other. The situation which seems to satisfy him so completely in
+America is, after all, the situation which would result in Europe if the
+Germanic Empires, let us say, had entirely arrested the special
+development of the Slavs; or if the influence of France had really
+broken off short under a blow from Britain. The Old South had qualities
+of humane civilisation which have not sufficiently survived; or at any
+rate have not sufficiently spread. It is true that the decline of the
+agricultural South has been considerably balanced by the growth of the
+agricultural West. It is true, as I have occasion to emphasise in
+another place, that the West does give the New America something that is
+nearly a normal peasantry, as a pendant to the industrial towns. But
+this is not an answer; it is rather an augmentation of the argument. In
+so far as America is saved it is saved by being patchy; and would be
+ruined if the Western patch had the same fate as the Southern patch.
+When all is said, therefore, the advantages of American unification are
+not so certain that we can apply them to a world unification. The doubt
+could be expressed in a great many ways and by a great many examples.
+For that matter, it is already being felt that the supremacy of the
+Middle West in politics is inflicting upon other localities exactly the
+sort of local injustice that turns provinces into nations struggling to
+be free. It has already inflicted what amounts to religious persecution,
+or the imposition of an alien morality, on the wine-growing civilisation
+of California. In a word, the American system is a good one as
+governments go; but it is too large, and the world will not be improved
+by making it larger. And for this reason alone I should reject this
+second method of uniting England and America; which is not only
+Americanising England, but Americanising everything else.
+
+But the essential reason is that a type of culture came out on top in
+America and England in the nineteenth century, which cannot and would
+not be tolerated on top of the world. To unite all the systems at the
+top, without improving and simplifying their social organisation below,
+would be to tie all the tops of the trees together where they rise
+above a dense and poisonous jungle, and make the jungle darker than
+before. To create such a cosmopolitan political platform would be to
+build a roof above our own heads to shut out the sunlight, on which only
+usurers and conspirators clad in gold could walk about in the sun. This
+is no moment when industrial intellectualism can inflict such an
+artificial oppression upon the world. Industrialism itself is coming to
+see dark days, and its future is very doubtful. It is split from end to
+end with strikes and struggles for economic life, in which the poor not
+only plead that they are starving, but even the rich can only plead that
+they are bankrupt. The peasantries are growing not only more prosperous
+but more politically effective; the Russian moujik has held up the
+Bolshevist Government of Moscow and Petersburg; a huge concession has
+been made by England to Ireland; the League of Nations has decided for
+Poland against Prussia. It is not certain that industrialism will not
+wither even in its own field; it is certain that its intellectual ideas
+will not be allowed to cover every field; and this sort of cosmopolitan
+culture is one of its ideas. Industrialism itself may perish; or on the
+other hand industrialism itself may survive, by some searching and
+scientific reform that will really guarantee economic security to all.
+It may really purge itself of the accidental maladies of anarchy and
+famine; and continue as a machine, but at least as a comparatively clean
+and humanely shielded machine; at any rate no longer as a man-eating
+machine. Capitalism may clear itself of its worst corruptions by such
+reform as is open to it; by creating humane and healthy conditions for
+labour, and setting the labouring classes to work under a lucid and
+recognised law. It may make Pittsburg one vast model factory for all who
+will model themselves upon factories; and may give to all men and women
+in its employment a clear social status in which they can be contented
+and secure. And on the day when that social security is established for
+the masses, when industrial capitalism has achieved this larger and more
+logical organisation and found peace at last, a strange and shadowy and
+ironic triumph, like an abstract apology, will surely hover over all
+those graves in the Wilderness where lay the bones of so many gallant
+gentlemen; men who had also from their youth known and upheld such a
+social stratification, who had the courage to call a spade a spade and a
+slave a slave.
+
+
+
+
+_A New Martin Chuzzlewit_
+
+
+The aim of this book, if it has one, is to suggest this thesis; that the
+very worst way of helping Anglo-American friendship is to be an
+Anglo-American. There is only one thing lower, of course, which is being
+an Anglo-Saxon. It is lower, because at least Englishmen do exist and
+Americans do exist; and it may be possible, though repulsive, to imagine
+an American and an Englishman in some way blended together. But if
+Angles and Saxons ever did exist, they are all fortunately dead now; and
+the wildest imagination cannot form the weakest idea of what sort of
+monster would be made by mixing one with the other. But my thesis is
+that the whole hope, and the only hope, lies not in mixing two things
+together, but rather in cutting them very sharply asunder. That is the
+only way in which two things can succeed sufficiently in getting outside
+each other to appreciate and admire each other. So long as they are
+different and yet supposed to be the same, there can be nothing but a
+divided mind and a staggering balance. It may be that in the first
+twilight of time man and woman walked about as one quadruped. But if
+they did, I am sure it was a quadruped that reared and bucked and kicked
+up its heels. Then the flaming sword of some angel divided them, and
+they fell in love with each other.
+
+Should the reader require an example a little more within historical
+range, or a little more subject to critical tests, than the above
+prehistoric anecdote (which I need not say was revealed to me in a
+vision) it would be easy enough to supply them both in a hypothetical
+and a historical form. It is obvious enough in a general way that if we
+begin to subject diverse countries to an identical test, there will not
+only be rivalry, but what is far more deadly and disastrous,
+superiority. If we institute a competition between Holland and
+Switzerland as to the relative grace and agility of their mountain
+guides, it will be clear that the decision is disproportionately easy;
+it will also be clear that certain facts about the configuration of
+Holland have escaped our international eye. If we establish a comparison
+between them in skill and industry in the art of building dykes against
+the sea, it will be equally clear that the injustice falls the other
+way; it will also be clear that the situation of Switzerland on the map
+has received insufficient study. In both cases there will not only be
+rivalry but very unbalanced and unjust rivalry; in both cases,
+therefore, there will not only be enmity but very bitter or insolent
+enmity. But so long as the two are sharply divided there can be no
+enmity because there can be no rivalry. Nobody can argue about whether
+the Swiss climb mountains better than the Dutch build dykes; just as
+nobody can argue about whether a triangle is more triangular than a
+circle is round.
+
+This fancy example is alphabetically and indeed artificially simple;
+but, having used it for convenience, I could easily give similar
+examples not of fancy but of fact. I had occasion recently to attend the
+Christmas festivity of a club in London for the exiles of one of the
+Scandinavian nations. When I entered the room the first thing that
+struck my eye, and greatly raised my spirits, was that the room was
+dotted with the colours of peasant costumes and the specimens of peasant
+craftsmanship. There were, of course, other costumes and other crafts in
+evidence; there were men dressed like myself (only better) in the garb
+of the modern middle classes; there was furniture like the furniture of
+any other room in London. Now, according to the ideal formula of the
+ordinary internationalist, these things that we had in common ought to
+have moved me to a sense of the kinship of all civilisation. I ought to
+have felt that as the Scandinavian gentleman wore a collar and tie, and
+I also wore a collar and tie, we were brothers and nothing could come
+between us. I ought to have felt that we were standing for the same
+principles of truth because we were wearing the same pair of trousers;
+or rather, to speak with more precision, similar pairs of trousers.
+Anyhow, the pair of trousers, that cloven pennon, ought to have floated
+in fancy over my head as the banner of Europe or the League of Nations.
+I am constrained to confess that no such rush of emotions overcame me;
+and the topic of trousers did not float across my mind at all. So far as
+those things were concerned, I might have remained in a mood of mortal
+enmity, and cheerfully shot or stabbed the best dressed gentleman in the
+room. Precisely what did warm my heart with an abrupt affection for that
+northern nation was the very thing that is utterly and indeed lamentably
+lacking in my own nation. It was something corresponding to the one
+great gap in English history, corresponding to the one great blot on
+English civilisation. It was the spiritual presence of a peasantry,
+dressed according to its own dignity, and expressing itself by its own
+creations.
+
+The sketch of America left by Charles Dickens is generally regarded as
+something which is either to be used as a taunt or covered with an
+apology. Doubtless it was unduly critical, even of the America of that
+day; yet curiously enough it may well be the text for a true
+reconciliation at the present day. It is true that in this, as in other
+things, the Dickensian exaggeration is itself exaggerated. It is also
+true that, while it is over-emphasised, it is not allowed for. Dickens
+tended too much to describe the United States as a vast lunatic asylum;
+but partly because he had a natural inspiration and imagination suited
+to the description of lunatic asylums. As it was his finest poetic fancy
+that created a lunatic over the garden wall, so it was his fancy that
+created a lunatic over the western sea. To read some of the complaints,
+one would fancy that Dickens had deliberately invented a low and
+farcical America to be a contrast to his high and exalted England. It is
+suggested that he showed America as full of rowdy bullies like Hannibal
+Chollop, or ridiculous wind-bags like Elijah Pogram, while England was
+full of refined and sincere spirits like Jonas Chuzzlewit, Chevy Slime,
+Montague Tigg, and Mr. Pecksniff. If _Martin Chuzzlewit_ makes America a
+lunatic asylum, what in the world does it make England? We can only say
+a criminal lunatic asylum. The truth is, of course, that Dickens so
+described them because he had a genius for that sort of description; for
+the making of almost maniacal grotesques of the same type as Quilp or
+Fagin. He made these Americans absurd because he was an artist in
+absurdity; and no artist can help finding hints everywhere for his own
+peculiar art. In a word, he created a laughable Pogram for the same
+reason that he created a laughable Pecksniff; and that was only because
+no other creature could have created them.
+
+It is often said that we learn to love the characters in romances as if
+they were characters in real life. I wish we could sometimes love the
+characters in real life as we love the characters in romances. There are
+a great many human souls whom we should accept more kindly, and even
+appreciate more clearly, if we simply thought of them as people in a
+story. _Martin Chuzzlewit_ is itself indeed an unsatisfactory and even
+unfortunate example; for it is, among its author's other works, a rather
+unusually harsh and hostile story. I do not suggest that we should feel
+towards an American friend that exact shade or tint of tenderness that
+we feel towards Mr. Hannibal Chollop. Our enjoyment of the foreigner
+should rather resemble our enjoyment of Pickwick than our enjoyment of
+Pecksniff. But there is this amount of appropriateness even in the
+particular example; that Dickens did show in both countries how men can
+be made amusing to each other. So far the point is not that he made fun
+of America, but that he got fun out of America. And, as I have already
+pointed out, he applied exactly the same method of selection and
+exaggeration to England. In the other English stories, written in a more
+amiable mood, he applied it in a more amiable manner; but he could apply
+it to an American too, when he was writing in that mood and manner. We
+can see it in the witty and withering criticism delivered by the Yankee
+traveller in the musty refreshment room of Mugby Junction; a genuine
+example of a genuinely American fun and freedom satirising a genuinely
+British stuffiness and snobbery. Nobody expects the American traveller
+to admire the refreshments at Mugby Junction; but he might admire the
+refreshment at one of the Pickwickian inns, especially if it contained
+Pickwick. Nobody expects Pickwick to like Pogram; but he might like the
+American who made fun of Mugby Junction. But the point is that, while he
+supported him in making fun, he would also think him funny. The two
+comic characters could admire each other, but they would also be amused
+at each other. And the American would think the Englishman funny because
+he was English; and a very good reason too. The Englishman would think
+the American amusing because he was American; nor can I imagine a better
+ground for his amusement.
+
+Now many will debate on the psychological possibility of such a
+friendship founded on reciprocal ridicule, or rather on a comedy of
+comparisons. But I will say of this harmony of humours what Mr. H. G.
+Wells says of his harmony of states in the unity of his World State. If
+it be truly impossible to have such a peace, then there is nothing
+possible except war. If we cannot have friends in this fashion, then we
+shall sooner or later have enemies in some other fashion. There is no
+hope in the pompous impersonalities of internationalism.
+
+And this brings us to the real and relevant mistake of Dickens. It was
+not in thinking his Americans funny, but in thinking them foolish
+because they were funny. In this sense it will be noticed that Dickens's
+American sketches are almost avowedly superficial; they are descriptions
+of public life and not private life. Mr. Jefferson Brick had no private
+life. But Mr. Jonas Chuzzlewit undoubtedly had a private life; and even
+kept some parts of it exceeding private. Mr. Pecksniff was also a
+domestic character; so was Mr. Quilp. Mr. Pecksniff and Mr. Quilp had
+slightly different ways of surprising their families; Mr. Pecksniff by
+playfully observing 'Boh!' when he came home; Mr. Quilp by coming home
+at all. But we can form no picture of how Mr. Hannibal Chollop playfully
+surprised his family; possibly by shooting at them; possibly by not
+shooting at them. We can only say that he would rather surprise us by
+having a family at all. We do not know how the Mother of the Modern
+Gracchi managed the Modern Gracchi; for her maternity was rather a
+public than a private office. We have no romantic moonlit scenes of the
+love-making of Elijah Pogram, to balance against the love story of Seth
+Pecksniff. These figures are all in a special sense theatrical; all
+facing one way and lit up by a public limelight. Their ridiculous
+characters are detachable from their real characters, if they have any
+real characters. And the author might perfectly well be right about what
+is ridiculous, and wrong about what is real. He might be as right in
+smiling at the Pograms and the Bricks as in smiling at the Pickwicks and
+the Boffins. And he might still be as wrong in seeing Mr. Pogram as a
+hypocrite as the great Buzfuz was wrong in seeing Mr. Pickwick as a
+monster of revolting heartlessness and systematic villainy. He might
+still be as wrong in thinking Jefferson Brick a charlatan and a cheat as
+was that great disciple of Lavater, Mrs. Wilfer, in tracing every
+wrinkle of evil cunning in the face of Mrs. Boffin. For Mr. Pickwick's
+spectacles and gaiters and Mrs. Boffin's bonnets and boudoir are after
+all superficial jokes; and might be equally well seen whatever we saw
+beneath them. A man may smile and smile and be a villain; but a man may
+also make us smile and not be a villain. He may make us smile and not
+even be a fool. He may make us roar with laughter and be an exceedingly
+wise man.
+
+Now that is the paradox of America which Dickens never discovered.
+Elijah Pogram was far more fantastic than his satirist thought; and the
+most grotesque feature of Brick and Chollop was hidden from him. The
+really strange thing was that Pogram probably did say, 'Rough he may be.
+So air our bars. Wild he may be. So air our buffalers,' and yet was a
+perfectly intelligent and public-spirited citizen while he said it. The
+extraordinary thing is that Jefferson Brick may really have said, 'The
+libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood,' and yet
+Jefferson Brick may have served freedom, resisting unto blood. There
+really has been a florid school of rhetoric in the United States which
+has made it quite possible for serious and sensible men to say such
+things. It is amusing simply as a difference of idiom or costume is
+always amusing; just as English idiom and English costume are amusing to
+Americans. But about this kind of difference there can be no kind of
+doubt. So sturdy not to say stuffy a materialist as Ingersoll could say
+of so shoddy not to say shady a financial politician as Blaine, 'Like an
+armed warrior, like a plumed knight, James G. Blaine strode down the
+hall of Congress, and flung his spear full and true at the shield of
+every enemy of his country and every traducer of his fair name.'
+Compared with that, the passage about bears and buffaloes, which Mr.
+Pogram delivered in defence of the defaulting post-master, is really a
+very reasonable and appropriate statement. For bears and buffaloes are
+wild and rough and in that sense free; while plumed knights do not throw
+their lances about like the assegais of Zulus. And the defaulting
+post-master was at least as good a person to praise in such a fashion as
+James G. Blaine of the Little Rock Railway. But anybody who had treated
+Ingersoll or Blaine merely as a fool and a figure of fun would have very
+rapidly found out his mistake. But Dickens did not know Brick or Chollop
+long enough to find out his mistake. It need not be denied that, even
+after a full understanding, he might still have found things to smile at
+or to criticise. I do not insist on his admitting that Hannibal Chollop
+was as great a hero as Hannibal, or that Elijah Pogram was as true a
+prophet as Elijah. But I do say very seriously that they had something
+about their atmosphere and situation that made possible a sort of
+heroism and even a sort of prophecy that were really less natural at
+that period in that Merry England whose comedy and common sense we sum
+up under the name of Dickens. When we joke about the name of Hannibal
+Chollop, we might remember of what nation was the general who dismissed
+his defeated soldiers at Appomatox with words which the historian has
+justly declared to be worthy of Hannibal: 'We have fought through this
+war together. I have done my best for you.' It is not fair to forget
+Jefferson, or even Jefferson Davis, entirely in favour of Jefferson
+Brick.
+
+For all these three things, good, bad, and indifferent, go together to
+form something that Dickens missed, merely because the England of his
+time most disastrously missed it. In this case, as in every case, the
+only way to measure justly the excess of a foreign country is to measure
+the defect of our own country. For in this matter the human mind is the
+victim of a curious little unconscious trick, the cause of nearly all
+international dislikes. A man treats his own faults as original sin and
+supposes them scattered everywhere with the seed of Adam. He supposes
+that men have then added their own foreign vices to the solid and simple
+foundation of his own private vices. It would astound him to realise
+that they have actually, by their strange erratic path, avoided his
+vices as well as his virtues. His own faults are things with which he is
+so much at home that he at once forgets and assumes them abroad. He is
+so faintly conscious of them in himself that he is not even conscious of
+the absence of them in other people. He assumes that they are there so
+that he does not see that they are not there. The Englishman takes it
+for granted that a Frenchman will have all the English faults. Then he
+goes on to be seriously angry with the Frenchman for having dared to
+complicate them by the French faults. The notion that the Frenchman has
+the French faults and _not_ the English faults is a paradox too wild to
+cross his mind.
+
+He is like an old Chinaman who should laugh at Europeans for wearing
+ludicrous top-hats and curling up their pig-tails inside them; because
+obviously all men have pig-tails, as all monkeys have tails. Or he is
+like an old Chinese lady who should justly deride the high-heeled shoes
+of the West, considering them a needless addition to the sufficiently
+tight and secure bandaging of the foot; for, of course, all women bind
+up their feet, as all women bind up their hair. What these Celestial
+thinkers would not think of, or allow for, is the wild possibility that
+we do not have pig-tails although we do have top-hats, or that our
+ladies are not silly enough to have Chinese feet, though they are silly
+enough to have high-heeled shoes. Nor should we necessarily have come an
+inch nearer to the Chinese extravagances even if the chimney-pot hat
+rose higher than a factory chimney or the high heels had evolved into a
+sort of stilts. By the same fallacy the Englishman will not only curse
+the French peasant as a miser, but will also try to tip him as a beggar.
+That is, he will first complain of the man having the surliness of an
+independent man, and then accuse him of having the servility of a
+dependent one. Just as the hypothetical Chinaman cannot believe that we
+have top-hats but not pig-tails, so the Englishman cannot believe that
+peasants are not snobs even when they are savages. Or he sees that a
+Paris paper is violent and sensational; and then supposes that some
+millionaire owns twenty such papers and runs them as a newspaper trust.
+Surely the Yellow Press is present everywhere to paint the map yellow,
+as the British Empire to paint it red. It never occurs to such a critic
+that the French paper is violent because it is personal, and personal
+because it belongs to a real and responsible person, and not to a ring
+of nameless millionaires. It is a pamphlet, and not an anonymous
+pamphlet. In a hundred other cases the same truth could be illustrated;
+the situation in which the black man first assumes that all mankind is
+black, and then accuses the rest of the artificial vice of painting
+their faces red and yellow, or the hypocrisy of white-washing
+themselves after the fashion of whited sepulchres. The particular case
+of it now before us is that of the English misunderstanding of America;
+and it is based, as in all these cases, on the English misunderstanding
+of England.
+
+For the truth is that England has suffered of late from not having
+enough of the free shooting of Hannibal Chollop; from not understanding
+enough that the libation of freedom must sometimes be quaffed in blood.
+The prosperous Englishman will not admit this; but then the prosperous
+Englishman will not admit that he has suffered from anything. That is
+what he is suffering from. Until lately at least he refused to realise
+that many of his modern habits had been bad habits, the worst of them
+being contentment. For all the real virtue in contentment evaporates,
+when the contentment is only satisfaction and the satisfaction is only
+self-satisfaction. Now it is perfectly true that America and not England
+has seen the most obvious and outrageous official denials of liberty.
+But it is equally true that it has seen the most obvious flouting of
+such official nonsense, far more obvious than any similar evasions in
+England. And nobody who knows the subconscious violence of the American
+character would ever be surprised if the weapons of Chollop began to be
+used in that most lawful lawlessness. It is perfectly true that the
+libation of freedom must sometimes be drunk in blood, and never more
+(one would think) than when mad millionaires forbid it to be drunk in
+beer. But America, as compared with England, is the country where one
+can still fancy men obtaining the libation of beer by the libation of
+blood. Vulgar plutocracy is almost omnipotent in both countries; but I
+think there is now more kick of reaction against it in America than in
+England. The Americans may go mad when they make laws; but they recover
+their reason when they disobey them. I wish I could believe that there
+was as much of that destructive repentance in England; as indeed there
+certainly was when Cobbett wrote. It faded gradually like a dying fire
+through the Victorian era; and it was one of the very few realities that
+Dickens did not understand. But any one who does understand it will know
+that the days of Cobbett saw the last lost fight for English democracy;
+and that if he had stood at that turning of the historic road, he would
+have wished a better fate to the frame-breakers and the fury against the
+first machinery, and luck to the Luddite fires.
+
+Anyhow, what is wanted is a new Martin Chuzzlewit, told by a wiser Mark
+Tapley. It is typical of something sombre and occasionally stale in the
+mood of Dickens when he wrote that book, that the comic servant is not
+really very comic. Mark Tapley is a very thin shadow of Sam Weller. But
+if Dickens had written it in a happier mood, there might have been a
+truer meaning in Mark Tapley's happiness. For it is true that this
+illogical good humour amid unreason and disorder is one of the real
+virtues of the English people. It is the real advantage they have in
+that adventure all over the world, which they were recently and
+reluctantly induced to call an Empire. That receptive ridicule remains
+with them as a secret pleasure when they are colonists--or convicts.
+Dickens might have written another version of the great romance, and one
+in which America was really seen gaily by Mark instead of gloomily by
+Martin. Mark Tapley might really have made the best of America. Then
+America would have lived and danced before us like Pickwick's England, a
+fairyland of happy lunatics and lovable monsters, and we might still
+have sympathised as much with the rhetoric of Lafayette Kettle as with
+the rhetoric of Wilkins Micawber, or with the violence of Chollop as
+with the violence of Boythorn. That new Martin Chuzzlewit will never be
+written; and the loss of it is more tragic than the loss of _Edwin
+Drood_. But every man who has travelled in America has seen glimpses and
+episodes in that untold tale; and far away on the Red-Indian frontiers
+or in the hamlets in the hills of Pennsylvania, there are people whom I
+met for a few hours or for a few moments, whom I none the less sincerely
+like and respect because I cannot but smile as I think of them. But the
+converse is also true; they have probably forgotten me; but if they
+remember they laugh.
+
+
+
+
+_The Spirit of America_
+
+
+I suggest that diplomatists of the internationalist school should spend
+some of their money on staging farces and comedies of cross-purposes,
+founded on the curious and prevalent idea that England and America have
+the same language. I know, of course, that we both inherit the glorious
+tongue of Shakespeare, not to mention the tune of the musical glasses;
+but there have been moments when I thought that if we spoke Greek and
+they spoke Latin we might understand each other better. For Greek and
+Latin are at least fixed, while American at least is still very fluid. I
+do not know the American language, and therefore I do not claim to
+distinguish between the American language and the American slang. But I
+know that highly theatrical developments might follow on taking the
+words as part of the English slang or the English language. I have
+already given the example of calling a person 'a regular guy,' which in
+the States is a graceful expression of respect and esteem, but which on
+the stage, properly handled, might surely lead the way towards a divorce
+or duel or something lively. Sometimes coincidence merely clinches a
+mistake, as it so often clinches a misprint. Every proof-reader knows
+that the worst misprint is not that which makes nonsense but that which
+makes sense; not that which is obviously wrong but that which is
+hideously right. He who has essayed to write 'he got the book,' and has
+found it rendered mysteriously as 'he got the boob' is pensively
+resigned. It is when it is rendered quite lucidly as 'he got the boot'
+that he is moved to a more passionate mood of regret. I have had
+conversations in which this sort of accident would have wholly misled
+me, if another accident had not come to the rescue. An American friend
+of mine was telling me of his adventures as a cinema-producer down in
+the south-west where real Red Indians were procurable. He said that
+certain Indians were 'very bad actors.' It passed for me as a very
+ordinary remark on a very ordinary or natural deficiency. It would
+hardly seem a crushing criticism to say that some wild Arab chieftain
+was not very good at imitating a farmyard; or that the Grand Llama of
+Thibet was rather clumsy at making paper boats. But the remark might be
+natural in a man travelling in paper boats, or touring with an invisible
+farmyard for his menagerie. As my friend was a cinema-producer, I
+supposed he meant that the Indians were bad cinema actors. But the
+phrase has really a high and austere moral meaning, which my levity had
+wholly missed. A bad actor means a man whose actions are bad or morally
+reprehensible. So that I might have embraced a Red Indian who was
+dripping with gore, or covered with atrocious crimes, imagining there
+was nothing the matter with him beyond a mistaken choice of the
+theatrical profession. Surely there are here the elements of a play, not
+to mention a cinema play. Surely a New England village maiden might find
+herself among the wigwams in the power of the formidable and fiendish
+'Little Blue Bison,' merely through her mistaken sympathy with his
+financial failure as a Film Star. The notion gives me glimpses of all
+sorts of dissolving views of primeval forests and flamboyant theatres;
+but this impulse of irrelevant theatrical production must be curbed.
+There is one example, however, of this complication of language actually
+used in contrary senses, about which the same figure can be used to
+illustrate a more serious fact.
+
+Suppose that, in such an international interlude, an English girl and an
+American girl are talking about the fiance of the former, who is coming
+to call. The English girl will be haughty and aristocratic (on the
+stage), the American girl will of course have short hair and skirts and
+will be cynical; Americans being more completely free from cynicism than
+any people in the world. It is the great glory of Americans that they
+are not cynical; for that matter, English aristocrats are hardly ever
+haughty; they understand the game much better than that. But on the
+stage, anyhow, the American girl may say, referring to her friend's
+fiance, with a cynical wave of the cigarette, 'I suppose he's bound to
+come and see you.' And at this the blue blood of the Vere de Veres will
+boil over; the English lady will be deeply wounded and insulted at the
+suggestion that her lover only comes to see her because he is forced to
+do so. A staggering stage quarrel will then ensue, and things will go
+from bad to worse; until the arrival of an Interpreter who can talk both
+English and American. He stands between the two ladies waving two pocket
+dictionaries, and explains the error on which the quarrel turns. It is
+very simple; like the seed of all tragedies. In English 'he is bound to
+come and see you' means that he is obliged or constrained to come and
+see you. In American it does not. In American it means that he is bent
+on coming to see you, that he is irrevocably resolved to do so, and will
+surmount any obstacle to do it. The two young ladies will then embrace
+as the curtain falls.
+
+Now when I was lecturing in America I was often told, in a radiant and
+congratulatory manner, that such and such a person was bound to come and
+hear me lecture. It seemed a very cruel form of conscription, and I
+could not understand what authority could have made it compulsory. In
+the course of discovering my error, however, I thought I began to
+understand certain American ideas and instincts that lie behind this
+American idiom. For as I have urged before, and shall often urge again,
+the road to international friendship is through really understanding
+jokes. It is in a sense through taking jokes seriously. It is quite
+legitimate to laugh at a man who walks down the street in three white
+hats and a green dressing gown, because it is unfamiliar; but after all
+the man has _some_ reason for what he does; and until we know the reason
+we do not understand the story, or even understand the joke. So the
+outlander will always seem outlandish in custom or costume; but serious
+relations depend on our getting beyond the fact of difference to the
+things wherein it differs. A good symbolical figure for all this may be
+found among the people who say, perhaps with a self-revealing
+simplicity, that they are bound to go to a lecture.
+
+If I were asked for a single symbolic figure summing up the whole of
+what seems eccentric and interesting about America to an Englishman, I
+should be satisfied to select that one lady who complained of Mrs.
+Asquith's lecture and wanted her money back. I do not mean that she was
+typically American in complaining; far from it. I, for one, have a great
+and guilty knowledge of all that amiable American audiences will endure
+without complaint. I do not mean that she was typically American in
+wanting her money; quite the contrary. That sort of American spends
+money rather than hoards it; and when we convict them of vulgarity we
+acquit them of avarice. Where she was typically American, summing up a
+truth individual and indescribable in any other way, is that she used
+these words: 'I've risen from a sick-bed to come and hear her, and I
+want my money back.'
+
+The element in that which really amuses an Englishman is precisely the
+element which, properly analysed, ought to make him admire an American.
+But my point is that only by going through the amusement can he reach
+the admiration. The amusement is in the vision of a tragic sacrifice for
+what is avowedly a rather trivial object. Mrs. Asquith is a candid lady
+of considerable humour; and I feel sure she does not regard the
+experience of hearing her read her diary as an ecstasy for which the
+sick should thus suffer martyrdom. She also is English; and had no other
+claim but to amuse Americans and possibly to be amused by them. This
+being so, it is rather as if somebody said, 'I have risked my life in
+fire and pestilence to find my way to the music hall,' or, 'I have
+fasted forty days in the wilderness sustained by the hope of seeing
+Totty Toddles do her new dance.' And there is something rather more
+subtle involved here. There is something in an Englishman which would
+make him feel faintly ashamed of saying that he had fasted to hear
+Totty Toddles, or risen from a sick-bed to hear Mrs. Asquith. He would
+feel that it was undignified to confess that he had wanted mere
+amusement so much; and perhaps that he had wanted anything so much. He
+would not like, so to speak, to be seen rushing down the street after
+Totty Toddles, or after Mrs. Asquith, or perhaps after anybody. But
+there is something in it distinct from a mere embarrassment at admitting
+enthusiasm. He might admit the enthusiasm if the object seemed to
+justify it; he might perfectly well be serious about a serious thing.
+But he cannot understand a person being proud of serious sacrifices for
+what is not a serious thing. He does not like to admit that a little
+thing can excite him; that he can lose his breath in running, or lose
+his balance in reaching, after something that might be called silly.
+
+Now that is where the American is fundamentally different. To him the
+enthusiasm itself is meritorious. To him the excitement itself is
+dignified. He counts it a part of his manhood to fast or fight or rise
+from a bed of sickness for something, or possibly for anything. His
+ideal is not to be a lock that only a worthy key can open, but a 'live
+wire' that anything can touch or anybody can use. In a word, there is a
+difference in the very definition of virility and therefore of virtue. A
+live wire is not only active, it is also sensitive. Thus sensibility
+becomes actually a part of virility. Something more is involved than the
+vulgar simplification of the American as the irresistible force and the
+Englishman as the immovable post. As a fact, those who speak of such
+things nowadays generally mean by something irresistible something
+simply immovable, or at least something unalterable, motionless even in
+motion, like a cannon ball; for a cannon ball is as dead as a cannon.
+Prussian militarism was praised in that way--until it met a French force
+of about half its size on the banks of the Marne. But that is not what
+an American means by energy; that sort of Prussian energy is only
+monotony without repose. American energy is not a soulless machine; for
+it is the whole point that he puts his soul into it. It is a very small
+box for so big a thing; but it is not an empty box. But the point is
+that he is not only proud of his energy, he is proud of his excitement.
+He is not ashamed of his emotion, of the fire or even the tear in his
+manly eye, when he tells you that the great wheel of his machine breaks
+four billion butterflies an hour.
+
+That is the point about American sport; that it is not in the least
+sportive. It is because it is not very sportive that we sometimes say it
+is not very sporting. It has the vices of a religion. It has all the
+paradox of original sin in the service of aboriginal faith. It is
+sometimes untruthful because it is sincere. It is sometimes treacherous
+because it is loyal. Men lie and cheat for it as they lied for their
+lords in a feudal conspiracy, or cheated for their chieftains in a
+Highland feud. We may say that the vassal readily committed treason; but
+it is equally true that he readily endured torture. So does the American
+athlete endure torture. Not only the self-sacrifice but the solemnity of
+the American athlete is like that of the American Indian. The athletes
+in the States have the attitude of the athletes among the Spartans, the
+great historical nation without a sense of humour. They suffer an
+ascetic regime not to be matched in any monasticism and hardly in any
+militarism. If any tradition of these things remains in a saner age,
+they will probably be remembered as a mysterious religious order of
+fakirs or dancing dervishes, who shaved their heads and fasted in honour
+of Hercules or Castor and Pollux. And that is really the spiritual
+atmosphere though the gods have vanished; and the religion is
+subconscious and therefore irrational. For the problem of the modern
+world is that it has continued to be religious when it has ceased to be
+rational. Americans really would starve to win a cocoa-nut shy. They
+would fast or bleed to win a race of paper boats on a pond. They would
+rise from a sick-bed to listen to Mrs. Asquith.
+
+But it is the real reason that interests me here. It is certainly not
+that Americans are so stupid as not to know that cocoa-nuts are only
+cocoa-nuts and paper boats only made of paper. Americans are, on an
+average, rather more intelligent than Englishmen; and they are well
+aware that Hercules is a myth and that Mrs. Asquith is something of a
+mythologist. It is not that they do not know that the object is small in
+itself; it is that they do really believe that the enthusiasm is great
+in itself. They admire people for being impressionable. They admire
+people for being excited. An American so struggling for some
+disproportionate trifle (like one of my lectures) really feels in a
+mystical way that he is right, because it is his whole morality to be
+keen. So long as he wants something very much, whatever it is, he feels
+he has his conscience behind him, and the common sentiment of society
+behind him, and God and the whole universe behind him. Wedged on one leg
+in a hot crowd at a trivial lecture, he has self-respect; his dignity
+is at rest. That is what he means when he says he is bound to come to
+the lecture.
+
+Now the Englishman is fond of occasional larks. But these things are not
+larks; nor are they occasional. It is the essential of the Englishman's
+lark that he should think it a lark; that he should laugh at it even
+when he does it. Being English myself, I like it; but being English
+myself, I know it is connected with weaknesses as well as merits. In its
+irony there is condescension and therefore embarrassment. This patronage
+is allied to the patron, and the patron is allied to the aristocratic
+tradition of society. The larks are a variant of laziness because of
+leisure; and the leisure is a variant of the security and even supremacy
+of the gentleman. When an undergraduate at Oxford smashes half a hundred
+windows he is well aware that the incident is merely a trifle. He can be
+trusted to explain to his parents and guardians that it was merely a
+trifle. He does not say, even in the American sense, that he was bound
+to smash the windows. He does not say that he had risen from a sick-bed
+to smash the windows. He does not especially think he has risen at all;
+he knows he has descended (though with delight, like one diving or
+sliding down the banisters) to something flat and farcical and full of
+the English taste for the bathos. He has collapsed into something
+entirely commonplace; though the owners of the windows may possibly not
+think so. This rather indescribable element runs through a hundred
+English things, as in the love of bathos shown even in the sound of
+proper names; so that even the yearning lover in a lyric yearns for
+somebody named Sally rather than Salome, and for a place called Wapping
+rather than a place called Westermain. Even in the relapse into
+rowdiness there is a sort of relapse into comfort. There is also what is
+so large a part of comfort; carelessness. The undergraduate breaks
+windows because he does not care about windows, not because he does care
+about more fresh air like a hygienist, or about more light like a German
+poet. Still less does he heroically smash a hundred windows because they
+come between him and the voice of Mrs. Asquith. But least of all does he
+do it because he seriously prides himself on the energy apart from its
+aim, and on the will-power that carries it through. He is not 'bound' to
+smash the windows, even in the sense of being bent upon it. He is not
+bound at all but rather relaxed; and his violence is not only a
+relaxation but a laxity. Finally, this is shown in the fact that he only
+smashes windows when he is in the mood to smash windows; when some
+fortunate conjunction of stars and all the tints and nuances of nature
+whisper to him that it would be well to smash windows. But the American
+is always ready, at any moment, to waste his energies on the wilder and
+more suicidal course of going to lectures. And this is because to him
+such excitement is not a mood but a moral ideal. As I note in another
+connection, much of the English mystery would be clear to Americans if
+they understood the word 'mood.' Englishmen are very moody, especially
+when they smash windows. But I doubt if many Americans understand
+exactly what we mean by the mood; especially the passive mood.
+
+It is only by trying to get some notion of all this that an Englishman
+can enjoy the final crown and fruit of all international friendship;
+which is really liking an American to be American. If we only think that
+parts of him are excellent because parts of him are English, it would be
+far more sensible to stop at home and possibly enjoy the society of a
+whole complete Englishman. But anybody who does understand this can take
+the same pleasure in an American being American that he does in a
+thunderbolt being swift and a barometer being sensitive. He can see that
+a vivid sensibility and vigilance really radiate outwards through all
+the ramifications of machinery and even of materialism. He can see that
+the American uses his great practical powers upon very small
+provocation; but he can also see that there is a kind of sense of
+honour, like that of a duellist, in his readiness to be provoked.
+Indeed, there is some parallel between the American man of action,
+however vulgar his aims, and the old feudal idea of the gentleman with a
+sword at his side. The gentleman may have been proud of being strong or
+sturdy; he may too often have been proud of being thick-headed; but he
+was not proud of being thick-skinned. On the contrary, he was proud of
+being thin-skinned. He also seriously thought that sensitiveness was a
+part of masculinity. It may be very absurd to read of two Irish
+gentlemen trying to kill each other for trifles, or of two
+Irish-American millionaires trying to ruin each other for trash. But the
+very pettiness of the pretext and even the purpose illustrates the same
+conception; which may be called the virtue of excitability. And it is
+really this, and not any rubbish about iron will-power and masterful
+mentality, that redeems with romance their clockwork cosmos and its
+industrial ideals. Being a live wire does not mean that the nerves
+should be like wires; but rather that the very wires should be like
+nerves.
+
+Another approximation to the truth would be to say that an American is
+really not ashamed of curiosity. It is not so simple as it looks. Men
+will carry off curiosity with various kinds of laughter and bravado,
+just as they will carry off drunkenness or bankruptcy. But very few
+people are really proud of lying on a door-step, and very few people are
+really proud of longing to look through a key-hole. I do not speak of
+looking through it, which involves questions of honour and self-control;
+but few people feel that even the desire is dignified. Now I fancy the
+American, at least by comparison with the Englishman, does feel that his
+curiosity is consistent with his dignity, because dignity is consistent
+with vivacity. He feels it is not merely the curiosity of Paul Pry, but
+the curiosity of Christopher Columbus. He is not a spy but an explorer;
+and he feels his greatness rather grow with his refusal to turn back, as
+a traveller might feel taller and taller as he neared the source of the
+Nile or the North-West Passage. Many an Englishman has had that feeling
+about discoveries in dark continents; but he does not often have it
+about discoveries in daily life. The one type does believe in the
+indignity and the other in the dignity of the detective. It has nothing
+to do with ethics in the merely external sense. It involves no
+particular comparison in practical morals and manners. It is something
+in the whole poise and posture of the self; of the way a man carries
+himself. For men are not only affected by what they are; but still more,
+when they are fools, by what they think they are; and when they are
+wise, by what they wish to be.
+
+There are truths that have almost become untrue by becoming untruthful.
+There are statements so often stale and insincere that one hesitates to
+use them, even when they stand for something more subtle. This point
+about curiosity is not the conventional complaint against the American
+interviewer. It is not the ordinary joke against the American child. And
+in the same way I feel the danger of it being identified with the cant
+about 'a young nation' if I say that it has some of the attractions, not
+of American childhood, but of real childhood. There is some truth in the
+tradition that the children of wealthy Americans tend to be too
+precocious and luxurious. But there is a sense in which we can really
+say that if the children are like adults, the adults are like children.
+And that sense is in the very best sense of childhood. It is something
+which the modern world does not understand. It is something that modern
+Americans do not understand, even when they possess it; but I think they
+do possess it.
+
+The devil can quote Scripture for his purpose; and the text of Scripture
+which he now most commonly quotes is, 'The kingdom of heaven is within
+you.' That text has been the stay and support of more Pharisees and
+prigs and self-righteous spiritual bullies than all the dogmas in
+creation; it has served to identify self-satisfaction with the peace
+that passes all understanding. And the text to be quoted in answer to it
+is that which declares that no man can receive the kingdom except as a
+little child. What we are to have inside is the childlike spirit; but
+the childlike spirit is not entirely concerned about what is inside. It
+is the first mark of possessing it that one is interested in what is
+outside. The most childlike thing about a child is his curiosity and his
+appetite and his power of wonder at the world. We might almost say that
+the whole advantage of having the kingdom within is that we look for it
+somewhere else.
+
+
+
+
+_The Spirit of England_
+
+
+Nine times out of ten a man's broad-mindedness is necessarily the
+narrowest thing about him. This is not particularly paradoxical; it is,
+when we come to think of it, quite inevitable. His vision of his own
+village may really be full of varieties; and even his vision of his own
+nation may have a rough resemblance to the reality. But his vision of
+the world is probably smaller than the world. His vision of the universe
+is certainly much smaller than the universe. Hence he is never so
+inadequate as when he is universal; he is never so limited as when he
+generalises. This is the fallacy in the many modern attempts at a
+creedless creed, at something variously described as essential
+Christianity or undenominational religion or a world faith to embrace
+all the faiths in the world. It is that every sectarian is more
+sectarian in his unsectarianism than he is in his sect. The emancipation
+of a Baptist is a very Baptist emancipation. The charity of a Buddhist
+is a very Buddhist charity, and very different from Christian charity.
+When a philosophy embraces everything it generally squeezes everything,
+and squeezes it out of shape; when it digests it necessarily
+assimilates. When a theosophist absorbs Christianity it is rather as a
+cannibal absorbs Christian missionaries. In this sense it is even
+possible for the larger thing to be swallowed by the smaller; and for
+men to move about not only in a Clapham sect but in a Clapham cosmos
+under Clapham moon and stars.
+
+But if this danger exists for all men, it exists especially for the
+Englishman. The Englishman is never so insular as when he is imperial;
+except indeed when he is international. In private life he is a good
+friend and in practical politics generally a good ally. But theoretical
+politics are more practical than practical politics. And in theoretical
+politics the Englishman is the worst ally the world ever saw. This is
+all the more curious because he has passed so much of his historical
+life in the character of an ally. He has been in twenty great alliances
+and never understood one of them. He has never been farther away from
+European politics than when he was fighting heroically in the thick of
+them. I myself think that this splendid isolation is sometimes really
+splendid; so long as it is isolation and does not imagine itself to be
+imperialism or internationalism. With the idea of being international,
+with the idea of being imperial, comes the frantic and farcical idea of
+being impartial. Generally speaking, men are never so mean and false and
+hypocritical as when they are occupied in being impartial. They are
+performing the first and most typical of all the actions of the devil;
+they are claiming the throne of God. Even when it is not hypocrisy but
+only mental confusion, it is always a confusion worse and worse
+confounded. We see it in the impartial historians of the Victorian Age,
+who now seem far more Victorian than the partial historians. Hallam
+wrote about the Middle Ages; but Hallam was far less mediaeval than
+Macaulay; for Macaulay was at least a fighter. Huxley had more mediaeval
+sympathies than Herbert Spencer for the same reason; that Huxley was a
+fighter. They both fought in many ways for the limitations of their own
+rationalistic epoch; but they were nearer the truth than the men who
+simply assumed those limitations as rational. The war of the
+controversionalists was a wider thing than the peace of the arbiters.
+And in the same way the Englishman never cuts a less convincing figure
+before other nations than when he tries to arbitrate between them.
+
+I have by this time heard a great deal about the necessity of saving
+Anglo-American friendship, a necessity which I myself feel rather too
+strongly to be satisfied with the ambassadorial and editorial style of
+achieving it. I have already said that the worst style of all is to be
+Anglo-American; or, as the more illiterate would express, to be
+Anglo-Saxon. I am more and more convinced that the way for the
+Englishman to do it is to be English; but to know that he is English and
+not everything else as well. Thus the only sincere answer to Irish
+nationalism is English nationalism, which is a reality; and not English
+imperialism, which is a reactionary fiction, or English
+internationalism, which is a revolutionary one.
+
+For the English are reviled for their imperialism because they are not
+imperialistic. They dislike it, which is the real reason why they do it
+badly; and they do it badly, which is the real reason why they are
+disliked when they do it. Nobody calls France imperialistic because she
+has absorbed Brittany. But everybody calls England imperialistic because
+she has not absorbed Ireland. The Englishman is fixed and frozen for
+ever in the attitude of a ruthless conqueror; not because he has
+conquered such people, but because he has not conquered them; but he is
+always trying to conquer them with a heroism worthy of a better cause.
+For the really native and vigorous part of what is unfortunately called
+the British Empire is not an empire at all, and does not consist of
+these conquered provinces at all. It is not an empire but an adventure;
+which is probably a much finer thing. It was not the power of making
+strange countries similar to our own, but simply the pleasure of seeing
+strange countries because they were different from our own. The
+adventurer did indeed, like the third son, set out to seek his fortune,
+but not primarily to alter other people's fortunes; he wished to trade
+with people rather than to rule them. But as the other people remained
+different from him, so did he remain different from them. The adventurer
+saw a thousand strange things and remained a stranger. He was the
+Robinson Crusoe on a hundred desert islands; and on each he remained as
+insular as on his own island.
+
+What is wanted for the cause of England to-day is an Englishman with
+enough imagination to love his country from the outside as well as the
+inside. That is, we need somebody who will do for the English what has
+never been done for them, but what is done for any outlandish peasantry
+or even any savage tribe. We want people who can make England
+attractive; quite apart from disputes about whether England is strong or
+weak. We want somebody to explain, not that England is everywhere, but
+what England is anywhere; not that England is or is not really dying,
+but why we do not want her to die. For this purpose the official and
+conventional compliments or claims can never get any farther than
+pompous abstractions about Law and Justice and Truth; the ideals which
+England accepts as every civilised state accepts them, and violates as
+every civilised state violates them. That is not the way in which the
+picture of any people has ever been painted on the sympathetic
+imagination of the world. Enthusiasts for old Japan did not tell us that
+the Japs recognised the existence of abstract morality; but that they
+lived in paper houses or wrote letters with paint-brushes. Men who
+wished to interest us in Arabs did not confine themselves to saying that
+they are monotheists or moralists; they filled our romances with the
+rush of Arab steeds or the colours of strange tents or carpets. What we
+want is somebody who will do for the Englishman with his front garden
+what was done for the Jap and his paper house; who shall understand the
+Englishman with his dog as well as the Arab with his horse. In a word,
+what nobody has really tried to do is the one thing that really wants
+doing. It is to make England attractive as a nationality, and even as a
+small nationality.
+
+For it is a wild folly to suppose that nations will love each other
+because they are alike. They will never really do that unless they are
+really alike; and then they will not be nations. Nations can love each
+other as men and women love each other, not because they are alike but
+because they are different. It can easily be shown, I fancy, that in
+every case where a real public sympathy was aroused for some unfortunate
+foreign people, it has always been accompanied with a particular and
+positive interest in their most foreign customs and their most foreign
+externals. The man who made a romance of the Scotch High-lander made a
+romance of his kilt and even of his dirk; the friend of the Red Indians
+was interested in picture writing and had some tendency to be
+interested in scalping. To take a more serious example, such nations as
+Serbia had been largely commended to international consideration by the
+study of Serbian epics, or Serbian songs. The epoch of negro
+emancipation was also the epoch of negro melodies. Those who wept over
+Uncle Tom also laughed over Uncle Remus. And just as the admiration for
+the Redskin almost became an apology for scalping, the mysterious
+fascination of the African has sometimes almost led us into the fringes
+of the black forest of Voodoo. But the sort of interest that is felt
+even in the scalp-hunter and the cannibal, the torturer and the
+devil-worshipper, that sort of interest has never been felt in the
+Englishman.
+
+And this is the more extraordinary because the Englishman is really very
+interesting. He is interesting in a special degree in this special
+manner; he is interesting because he is individual. No man in the world
+is more misrepresented by everything official or even in the ordinary
+sense national. A description of English life must be a description of
+private life. In that sense there is no public life. In that sense there
+is no public opinion. There have never been those prairie fires of
+public opinion in England which often sweep over America. At any rate,
+there have never been any such popular revolutions since the popular
+revolutions of the Middle Ages. The English are a nation of amateurs;
+they are even a nation of eccentrics. An Englishman is never more
+English than when he is considered a lunatic by the other Englishmen.
+This can be clearly seen in a figure like Dr. Johnson, who has become
+national not by being normal but by being extraordinary. To express this
+mysterious people, to explain or suggest why they like tall hedges and
+heavy breakfasts and crooked roads and small gardens with large fences,
+and why they alone among Christians have kept quite consistently the
+great Christian glory of the open fireplace, here would be a strange and
+stimulating opportunity for any of the artists in words, who study the
+souls of strange peoples. That would be the true way to create a
+friendship between England and America, or between England and anything
+else; yes, even between England and Ireland. For this justice at least
+has already been done to Ireland; and as an indignant patriot I demand a
+more equal treatment for the two nations.
+
+I have already noted the commonplace that in order to teach
+internationalism we must talk nationalism. We must make the nations as
+nations less odious or mysterious to each other. We do not make men love
+each other by describing a monster with a million arms and legs, but by
+describing the men as men, with their separate and even solitary
+emotions. As this has a particular application to the emotions of the
+Englishman, I will return to the topic once more. Now Americans have a
+power that is the soul and success of democracy, the power of
+spontaneous social organisation. Their high spirits, their humane ideals
+are really creative, they abound in unofficial institutions; we might
+almost say in unofficial officialism. Nobody who has felt the presence
+of all the leagues and guilds and college clubs will deny that Whitman
+was national when he said he would build states and cities out of the
+love of comrades. When all this communal enthusiasm collides with the
+Englishman, it too often seems literally to leave him cold. They say he
+is reserved; they possibly think he is rude. And the Englishman, having
+been taught his own history all wrong, is only too likely to take the
+criticism as a compliment. He admits that he is reserved because he is
+stern and strong; or even that he is rude because he is shrewd and
+candid. But as a fact he is not rude and not especially reserved; at
+least reserve is not the meaning of his reluctance. The real difference
+lies, I think, in the fact that American high spirits are not only high
+but level; that the hilarious American spirit is like a plateau, and the
+humorous English spirit like a ragged mountain range.
+
+The Englishman is moody; which does not in the least mean that the
+Englishman is morose. Dickens, as we all feel in reading his books, was
+boisterously English. Dickens was moody when he wrote _Oliver Twist_;
+but he was also moody when he wrote _Pickwick_. That is, he was in
+another and much healthier mood. The mood was normal to him in the sense
+that nine times out of ten he felt and wrote in that humorous and
+hilarious mood. But he was, if ever there was one, a man of moods; and
+all the more of a typical Englishman for being a man of moods. But it
+was because of this, almost entirely, that he had a misunderstanding
+with America.
+
+In America there are no moods, or there is only one mood. It is the same
+whether it is called hustle or uplift; whether we regard it as the
+heroic love of comrades or the last hysteria of the herd instinct. It
+has been said of the typical English aristocrats of the Government
+offices that they resemble certain ornamental fountains and play from
+ten till four; and it is true that an Englishman, even an English
+aristocrat, is not always inclined to play any more than to work. But
+American sociability is not like the Trafalgar fountains. It is like
+Niagara. It never stops, under the silent stars or the rolling storms.
+There seems always to be the same human heat and pressure behind it; it
+is like the central heating of hotels as explained in the advertisements
+and announcements. The temperature can be regulated; but it is not. And
+it is always rather overpowering for an Englishman, whose mood changes
+like his own mutable and shifting sky. The English mood is very like the
+English weather; it is a nuisance and a national necessity.
+
+If any one wishes to understand the quarrel between Dickens and the
+Americans, let him turn to that chapter in _Martin Chuzzlewit_, in which
+young Martin has to receive endless defiles and deputations of total
+strangers each announced by name and demanding formal salutation. There
+are several things to be noticed about this incident. To begin with, it
+did not happen to Martin Chuzzlewit; but it did happen to Charles
+Dickens. Dickens is incorporating almost without alteration a passage
+from a diary in the middle of a story; as he did when he included the
+admirable account of the prison petition of John Dickens as the prison
+petition of Wilkins Micawber. There is no particular reason why even the
+gregarious Americans should so throng the portals of a perfectly obscure
+steerage passenger like young Chuzzlewit. There was every reason why
+they should throng the portals of the author of _Pickwick_ and _Oliver
+Twist_. And no doubt they did. If I may be permitted the aleatory image,
+you bet they did. Similar troops of sociable human beings have visited
+much more insignificant English travellers in America, with some of whom
+I am myself acquainted. I myself have the luck to be a little more
+stodgy and less sensitive than many of my countrymen; and certainly less
+sensitive than Dickens. But I know what it was that annoyed him about
+that unending and unchanging stream of American visitors; it was the
+unending and unchanging stream of American sociability and high spirits.
+A people living on such a lofty but level tableland do not understand
+the ups and downs of the English temperament; the temper of a nation of
+eccentrics or (as they used to be called) of humorists. There is
+something very national in the very name of the old play of _Every Man
+in His Humour_. But the play more often acted in real life is 'Every Man
+Out of His Humour.' It is true, as Matthew Arnold said, that an
+Englishman wants to do as he likes; but it is not always true even that
+he likes what he likes. An Englishman can be friendly and yet not feel
+friendly. Or he can be friendly and yet not feel hospitable. Or he can
+feel hospitable and yet not welcome those whom he really loves. He can
+think, almost with tears of tenderness, about people at a distance who
+would be bores if they came in at the door.
+
+American sociability sweeps away any such subtlety. It cannot be
+expected to understand the paradox or perversity of the Englishman, who
+thus can feel friendly and avoid friends. That is the truth in the
+suggestion that Dickens was sentimental. It means that he probably felt
+most sociable when he was solitary. In all these attempts to describe
+the indescribable, to indicate the real but unconscious differences
+between the two peoples, I have tried to balance my words without the
+irrelevant bias of praise and blame. Both characteristics always cut
+both ways. On one side this comradeship makes possible a certain
+communal courage, a democratic derision of rich men in high places,
+that is not easy in our smaller and more stratified society. On the
+other hand the Englishman has certainly more liberty, if less equality
+and fraternity. But the richest compensation of the Englishman is not
+even in the word 'liberty,' but rather in the word 'poetry.' That humour
+of escape or seclusion, that genial isolation, that healing of wounded
+friendship by what Christian Science would call absent treatment, that
+is the best atmosphere of all for the creation of great poetry; and out
+of that came 'bare ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang' and
+'Thou wast not made for death, immortal bird.' In this sense it is
+indeed true that poetry is emotion remembered in tranquillity; which may
+be extended to mean affection remembered in loneliness. There is in it a
+spirit not only of detachment but even of distance; a spirit which does
+desire, as in the old English rhyme, to be not only over the hills but
+also far away. In other words, in so far as it is true that the
+Englishman is an exception to the great truth of Aristotle, it is
+because he is not so near to Aristotle as he is to Homer. In so far as
+he is not by nature a political animal, it is because he is a poetical
+animal. We see it in his relations to the other animals; his quaint and
+almost illogical love of dogs and horses and dependants whose political
+rights cannot possibly be defined in logic. Many forms of hunting or
+fishing are but an excuse for the same thing which the shameless
+literary man does without any excuse. Sport is speechless poetry. It
+would be easy for a foreigner, by taking a few liberties with the facts,
+to make a satire about the sort of silent Shelley who decides ultimately
+to shoot the skylark. It would be easy to answer these poetic
+suggestions by saying that he himself might be responsible for ruining
+the choirs where late the sweet birds sang, or that the immortal bird
+was likely to be mortal when he was out with his gun. But these
+international satires are never just; and the real relations of an
+Englishman and an English bird are far more delicate. It would be
+equally easy and equally unjust to suggest a similar satire against
+American democracy; and represent Americans merely as birds of a feather
+who can do nothing but flock together. But this would leave out the fact
+that at least it is not the white feather; that democracy is capable of
+defiance and of death for an idea. Touching the souls of great nations,
+these criticisms are generally false because they are critical.
+
+But when we are quite sure that we rejoice in a nation's strength, then
+and not before we are justified in judging its weakness. I am quite sure
+that I rejoice in any democratic success without _arriere pensee_; and
+nobody who knows me will credit me with a covert sneer at civic
+equality. And this being granted, I do think there is a danger in the
+gregariousness of American society. The danger of democracy is not
+anarchy; on the contrary, it is monotony. And it is touching this that
+all my experience has increased my conviction that a great deal that is
+called female emancipation has merely been the increase of female
+convention. Now the males of every community are far too conventional;
+it was the females who were individual and criticised the conventions of
+the tribe. If the females become conventional also, there is a danger of
+individuality being lost. This indeed is not peculiar to America; it is
+common to the whole modern industrial world, and to everything which
+substitutes the impersonal atmosphere of the State for the personal
+atmosphere of the home. But it is emphasised in America by the curious
+contradiction that Americans do in theory value and even venerate the
+individual. But individualism is still the foe of individuality. Where
+men are trying to compete with each other they are trying to copy each
+other. They become featureless by 'featuring' the same part.
+Personality, in becoming a conscious ideal, becomes a common ideal. In
+this respect perhaps there is really something to be learnt from the
+Englishman with his turn or twist in the direction of private life.
+Those who have travelled in such a fashion as to see all the American
+hotels and none of the American houses are sometimes driven to the
+excess of saying that the Americans have no private life. But even if
+the exaggeration has a hint of truth, we must balance it with the
+corresponding truth; that the English have no public life. They on their
+side have still to learn the meaning of the public thing, the republic;
+and how great are the dangers of cowardice and corruption when the very
+State itself has become a State secret.
+
+The English are patriotic; but patriotism is the unconscious form of
+nationalism. It is being national without understanding the meaning of a
+nation. The Americans are on the whole too self-conscious, kept moving
+too much in the pace of public life, with all its temptations to
+superficiality and fashion; too much aware of outside opinion and with
+too much appetite for outside criticism. But the English are much too
+unconscious; and would be the better for an increase in many forms of
+consciousness, including consciousness of sin. But even their sin is
+ignorance of their real virtue. The most admirable English things are
+not the things that are most admired by the English, or for which the
+English admire themselves. They are things now blindly neglected and in
+daily danger of being destroyed. It is all the worse that they should be
+destroyed, because there is really nothing like them in the world. That
+is why I have suggested a note of nationalism rather than patriotism for
+the English; the power of seeing their nation as a nation and not as the
+nature of things. We say of some ballad from the Balkans or some peasant
+costume in the Netherlands that it is unique; but the good things of
+England really are unique. Our very isolation from continental wars and
+revolutionary reconstructions have kept them unique. The particular kind
+of beauty there is in an English village, the particular kind of humour
+there is in an English public-house, are things that cannot be found in
+lands where the village is far more simply and equally governed, or
+where the vine is far more honourably served and praised. Yet we shall
+not save them by merely sinking into them with the conservative sort of
+contentment, even if the commercial rapacity of our plutocratic reforms
+would allow us to do so. We must in a sense get far away from England in
+order to behold her; we must rise above patriotism in order to be
+practically patriotic; we must have some sense of more varied and remote
+things before these vanishing virtues can be seen suddenly for what they
+are; almost as one might fancy that a man would have to rise to the
+dizziest heights of the divine understanding before he saw, as from a
+peak far above a whirlpool, how precious is his perishing soul.
+
+
+
+
+_The Future of Democracy_
+
+
+The title of this final chapter requires an apology. I do not need to be
+reminded, alas, that the whole book requires an apology. It is written
+in accordance with a ritual or custom in which I could see no particular
+harm, and which gives me a very interesting subject, but a custom which
+it would be not altogether easy to justify in logic. Everybody who goes
+to America for a short time is expected to write a book; and nearly
+everybody does. A man who takes a holiday at Trouville or Dieppe is not
+confronted on his return with the question, 'When is your book on France
+going to appear?' A man who betakes himself to Switzerland for the
+winter sports is not instantly pinned by the statement, 'I suppose your
+History of the Helvetian Republic is coming out this spring?' Lecturing,
+at least my kind of lecturing, is not much more serious or meritorious
+than ski-ing or sea-bathing; and it happens to afford the holiday-maker
+far less opportunity of seeing the daily life of the people. Of all this
+I am only too well aware; and my only defence is that I am at least
+sincere in my enjoyment and appreciation of America, and equally sincere
+in my interest in its most serious problem, which I think a very serious
+problem indeed; the problem of democracy in the modern world. Democracy
+may be a very obvious and facile affair for plutocrats and politicians
+who only have to use it as a rhetorical term. But democracy is a very
+serious problem for democrats. I certainly do not apologise for the word
+democracy; but I do apologise for the word future. I am no Futurist; and
+any conjectures I make must be taken with the grain of salt which is
+indeed the salt of the earth; the decent and moderate humility which
+comes from a belief in free will. That faith is in itself a divine
+doubt. I do not believe in any of the scientific predictions about
+mankind; I notice that they always fail to predict any of the purely
+human developments of men; I also notice that even their successes prove
+the same truth as their failures; for their successful predictions are
+not about men but about machines. But there are two things which a man
+may reasonably do, in stating the probabilities of a problem, which do
+not involve any claim to be a prophet. The first is to tell the truth,
+and especially the neglected truth, about the tendencies that have
+already accumulated in human history; any miscalculation about which
+must at least mislead us in any case. We cannot be certain of being
+right about the future; but we can be almost certain of being wrong
+about the future, if we are wrong about the past. The other thing that
+he can do is to note what ideas necessarily go together by their own
+nature; what ideas will triumph together or fall together. Hence it
+follows that this final chapter must consist of two things. The first is
+a summary of what has really happened to the idea of democracy in recent
+times; the second a suggestion of the fundamental doctrine which is
+necessary for its triumph at any time.
+
+The last hundred years has seen a general decline in the democratic
+idea. If there be anybody left to whom this historical truth appears a
+paradox, it is only because during that period nobody has been taught
+history, least of all the history of ideas. If a sort of intellectual
+inquisition had been established, for the definition and differentiation
+of heresies, it would have been found that the original republican
+orthodoxy had suffered more and more from secessions, schisms, and
+backslidings. The highest point of democratic idealism and conviction
+was towards the end of the eighteenth century, when the American
+Republic was 'dedicated to the proposition that all men are equal.' It
+was then that the largest number of men had the most serious sort of
+conviction that the political problem could be solved by the vote of
+peoples instead of the arbitrary power of princes and privileged orders.
+These men encountered various difficulties and made various compromises
+in relation to the practical politics of their time; in England they
+preserved aristocracy; in America they preserved slavery. But though
+they had more difficulties, they had less doubts. Since their time
+democracy has been steadily disintegrated by doubts; and these political
+doubts have been contemporary with and often identical with religious
+doubts. This fact could be followed over almost the whole field of the
+modern world; in this place it will be more appropriate to take the
+great American example of slavery. I have found traces in all sorts of
+intelligent quarters of an extraordinary idea that all the Fathers of
+the Republic owned black men like beasts of burden because they knew no
+better, until the light of liberty was revealed to them by John Brown
+and Mrs. Beecher Stowe. One of the best weekly papers in England said
+recently that even those who drew up the Declaration of Independence did
+not include negroes in its generalisation about humanity. This is quite
+consistent with the current convention, in which we were all brought up;
+the theory that the heart of humanity broadens in ever larger circles of
+brotherhood, till we pass from embracing a black man to adoring a black
+beetle. Unfortunately it is quite inconsistent with the facts of
+American history. The facts show that, in this problem of the Old South,
+the eighteenth century was _more_ liberal than the nineteenth century.
+There was _more_ sympathy for the negro in the school of Jefferson than
+in the school of Jefferson Davis. Jefferson, in the dark estate of his
+simple Deism, said the sight of slavery in his country made him tremble,
+remembering that God is just. His fellow Southerners, after a century of
+the world's advance, said that slavery in itself was good, when they did
+not go farther and say that negroes in themselves were bad. And they
+were supported in this by the great and growing modern suspicion that
+nature is unjust. Difficulties seemed inevitably to delay justice, to
+the mind of Jefferson; but so they did to the mind of Lincoln. But that
+the slave was human and the servitude inhuman--that was, if anything,
+clearer to Jefferson than to Lincoln. The fact is that the utter
+separation and subordination of the black like a beast was a _progress_;
+it was a growth of nineteenth-century enlightenment and experiment; a
+triumph of science over superstition. It was 'the way the world was
+going,' as Matthew Arnold reverentially remarked in some connection;
+perhaps as part of a definition of God. Anyhow, it was not Jefferson's
+definition of God. He fancied, in his far-off patriarchal way, a Father
+who had made all men brothers; and brutally unbrotherly as was the
+practice, such democratical Deists never dreamed of denying the theory.
+It was not until the scientific sophistries began that brotherhood was
+really disputed. Gobineau, who began most of the modern talk about the
+superiority and inferiority of racial stocks, was seized upon eagerly by
+the less generous of the slave-owners and trumpeted as a new truth of
+science and a new defence of slavery. It was not really until the dawn
+of Darwinism, when all our social relations began to smell of the
+monkey-house, that men thought of the barbarian as only a first and the
+baboon as a second cousin. The full servile philosophy has been a modern
+and even a recent thing; made in an age whose invisible deity was the
+Missing Link. The Missing Link was a true metaphor in more ways than
+one; and most of all in its suggestion of a chain.
+
+By a symbolic coincidence, indeed, slavery grew more brazen and brutal
+under the encouragement of more than one movement of the progressive
+sort. Its youth was renewed for it by the industrial prosperity of
+Lancashire; and under that influence it became a commercial and
+competitive instead of a patriarchal and customary thing. We may say
+with no exaggerative irony that the unconscious patrons of slavery were
+Huxley and Cobden. The machines of Manchester were manufacturing a great
+many more things than the manufacturers knew or wanted to know; but they
+were certainly manufacturing the fetters of the slave, doubtless out of
+the best quality of steel and iron. But this is a minor illustration of
+the modern tendency, as compared with the main stream of scepticism
+which was destroying democracy. Evolution became more and more a vision
+of the break-up of our brotherhood, till by the end of the nineteenth
+century the genius of its greatest scientific romancer saw it end in the
+anthropophagous antics of the Time Machine. So far from evolution
+lifting us above the idea of enslaving men, it was providing us at least
+with a logical and potential argument for eating them. In the case of
+the American negroes, it may be remarked, it does at any rate permit the
+preliminary course of roasting them. All this materialistic hardening,
+which replaced the remorse of Jefferson, was part of the growing
+evolutionary suspicion that savages were not a part of the human race,
+or rather that there was really no such thing as the human race. The
+South had begun by agreeing reluctantly to the enslavement of men. The
+South ended by agreeing equally reluctantly to the emancipation of
+monkeys.
+
+That is what had happened to the democratic ideal in a hundred years.
+Anybody can test it by comparing the final phase, I will not say with
+the ideal of Jefferson, but with the ideal of Johnson. There was far
+more horror of slavery in an eighteenth-century Tory like Dr. Johnson
+than in a nineteenth-century Democrat like Stephen Douglas. Stephen
+Douglas may be mentioned because he is a very representative type of the
+age of evolution and expansion; a man thinking in continents, like Cecil
+Rhodes, human and hopeful in a truly American fashion, and as a
+consequence cold and careless rather than hostile in the matter of the
+old mystical doctrines of equality. He 'did not care whether slavery was
+voted up or voted down.' His great opponent Lincoln did indeed care
+very much. But it was an intense individual conviction with Lincoln
+exactly as it was with Johnson. I doubt if the spirit of the age was not
+much more behind Douglas and his westward expansion of the white race. I
+am sure that more and more men were coming to be in the particular
+mental condition of Douglas; men in whom the old moral and mystical
+ideals had been undermined by doubt but only with a negative effect of
+indifference. Their positive convictions were all concerned with what
+some called progress and some imperialism. It is true that there was a
+sincere sectional enthusiasm against slavery in the North; and that the
+slaves were actually emancipated in the nineteenth century. But I doubt
+whether the Abolitionists would ever have secured Abolition. Abolition
+was a by-product of the Civil War; which was fought for quite other
+reasons. Anyhow, if slavery had somehow survived to the age of Rhodes
+and Roosevelt and evolutionary imperialism, I doubt if the slaves would
+ever have been emancipated at all. Certainly if it had survived till the
+modern movement for the Servile State, they would never have been
+emancipated at all. Why should the world take the chains off the black
+man when it was just putting them on the white? And in so far as we owe
+the change to Lincoln, we owe it to Jefferson. Exactly what gives its
+real dignity to the figure of Lincoln is that he stands invoking a
+primitive first principle of the age of innocence, and holding up the
+tables of an ancient law, _against_ the trend of the nineteenth century;
+repeating, 'We hold these truths to be self-evident; that all men are
+created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator, etc.,' to a
+generation that was more and more disposed to say something like this:
+'We hold these truths to be probable enough for pragmatists; that all
+things looking like men were evolved somehow, being endowed by heredity
+and environment with no equal rights, but very unequal wrongs,' and so
+on. I do not believe that creed, left to itself, would ever have founded
+a state; and I am pretty certain that, left to itself, it would never
+have overthrown a slave state. What it did do, as I have said, was to
+produce some very wonderful literary and artistic flights of sceptical
+imagination. The world did have new visions, if they were visions of
+monsters in the moon and Martians striding about like spiders as tall as
+the sky, and the workmen and capitalists becoming two separate species,
+so that one could devour the other as gaily and greedily as a cat
+devours a bird. No one has done justice to the meaning of Mr. Wells and
+his original departure in fantastic fiction; to these nightmares that
+were the last apocalypse of the nineteenth century. They meant that the
+bottom had fallen out of the mind at last, that the bridge of
+brotherhood had broken down in the modern brain, letting up from the
+chasms this infernal light like a dawn. All had grown dizzy with degree
+and relativity; so that there would not be so very much difference
+between eating dog and eating darkie, or between eating darkie and
+eating dago. There were different sorts of apes; but there was no doubt
+that we were the superior sort.
+
+Against all this irresistible force stood one immovable post. Against
+all this dance of doubt and degree stood something that can best be
+symbolised by a simple example. An ape cannot be a priest, but a negro
+can be a priest. The dogmatic type of Christianity, especially the
+Catholic type of Christianity, had riveted itself irrevocably to the
+manhood of all men. Where its faith was fixed by creeds and councils it
+could not save itself even by surrender. It could not gradually dilute
+democracy, as could a merely sceptical or secular democrat. There stood,
+in fact or in possibility, the solid and smiling figure of a black
+bishop. And he was either a man claiming the most towering spiritual
+privileges of a man, or he was the mere buffoonery and blasphemy of a
+monkey in a mitre. That is the point about Christian and Catholic
+democracy; it is not that it is necessarily at any moment more
+democratic, it is that its indestructible minimum of democracy really is
+indestructible. And by the nature of things that mystical democracy was
+destined to survive, when every other sort of democracy was free to
+destroy itself. And whenever democracy destroying itself is suddenly
+moved to save itself, it always grasps at rag or tag of that old
+tradition that alone is sure of itself. Hundreds have heard the story
+about the mediaeval demagogue who went about repeating the rhyme
+
+
+ When Adam delved and Eve span,
+ Who was then the gentleman?
+
+
+Many have doubtless offered the obvious answer to the question, 'The
+Serpent.' But few seem to have noticed what would be the more modern
+answer to the question, if that innocent agitator went about propounding
+it. 'Adam never delved and Eve never span, for the simple reason that
+they never existed. They are fragments of a Chaldeo-Babylonian mythos,
+and Adam is only a slight variation of Tag-Tug, pronounced Uttu. For the
+real beginning of humanity we refer you to Darwin's _Origin of
+Species_.' And then the modern man would go on to justify plutocracy to
+the mediaeval man by talking about the Struggle for Life and the
+Survival of the Fittest; and how the strongest man seized authority by
+means of anarchy, and proved himself a gentleman by behaving like a cad.
+Now I do not base my beliefs on the theology of John Ball, or on the
+literal and materialistic reading of the text of Genesis; though I think
+the story of Adam and Eve infinitely less absurd and unlikely than that
+of the prehistoric 'strongest man' who could fight a hundred men. But I
+do note the fact that the idealism of the leveller could be put in the
+form of an appeal to Scripture, and could not be put in the form of an
+appeal to Science. And I do note also that democrats were still driven
+to make the same appeal even in the very century of Science. Tennyson
+was, if ever there was one, an evolutionist in his vision and an
+aristocrat in his sympathies. He was always boasting that John Bull was
+evolutionary and not revolutionary, even as these Frenchmen. He did not
+pretend to have any creed beyond faintly trusting the larger hope. But
+when human dignity is really in danger, John Bull has to use the same
+old argument as John Ball. He tells Lady Clara Vere de Vere that 'the
+gardener Adam and his wife smile at the claim of long descent'; their
+own descent being by no means long. Lady Clara might surely have scored
+off him pretty smartly by quoting from 'Maud' and 'In Memoriam' about
+evolution and the eft that was lord of valley and hill. But Tennyson has
+evidently forgotten all about Darwin and the long descent of man. If
+this was true of an evolutionist like Tennyson, it was naturally ten
+times truer of a revolutionist like Jefferson. The Declaration of
+Independence dogmatically bases all rights on the fact that God created
+all men equal; and it is right; for if they were not created equal, they
+were certainly evolved unequal.
+
+There is no basis for democracy except in a dogma about the divine
+origin of man. That is a perfectly simple fact which the modern world
+will find out more and more to be a fact. Every other basis is a sort of
+sentimental confusion, full of merely verbal echoes of the older creeds.
+Those verbal associations are always vain for the vital purpose of
+constraining the tyrant. An idealist may say to a capitalist, 'Don't you
+sometimes feel in the rich twilight, when the lights twinkle from the
+distant hamlet in the hills, that all humanity is a holy family?' But it
+is equally possible for the capitalist to reply with brevity and
+decision, 'No, I don't,' and there is no more disputing about it further
+than about the beauty of a fading cloud. And the modern world of moods
+is a world of clouds, even if some of them are thunderclouds.
+
+For I have only taken here, as a convenient working model, the case of
+negro slavery; because it was long peculiar to America and is popularly
+associated with it. It is more and more obvious that the line is no
+longer running between black and white but between rich and poor. As I
+have already noted in the case of Prohibition, the very same arguments
+of the inevitable suicide of the ignorant, of the impossibility of
+freedom for the unfit, which were once applied to barbarians brought
+from Africa are now applied to citizens born in America. It is argued
+even by industrialists that industrialism has produced a class submerged
+below the status of emancipated mankind. They imply that the Missing
+Link is no longer missing, even from England or the Northern States, and
+that the factories have manufactured their own monkeys. Scientific
+hypotheses about the feeble-minded and the criminal type will supply the
+masters of the modern world with more and more excuses for denying the
+dogma of equality in the case of white labour as well as black. And any
+man who knows the world knows perfectly well that to tell the
+millionaires, or their servants, that they are disappointing the
+sentiments of Thomas Jefferson, or disregarding a creed composed in the
+eighteenth century, will be about as effective as telling them that they
+are not observing the creed of St. Athanasius or keeping the rule of St.
+Benedict.
+
+The world cannot keep its own ideals. The secular order cannot make
+secure any one of its own noble and natural conceptions of secular
+perfection. That will be found, as time goes on, the ultimate argument
+for a Church independent of the world and the secular order. What has
+become of all those ideal figures from the Wise Man of the Stoics to the
+democratic Deist of the eighteenth century? What has become of all that
+purely human hierarchy of chivalry, with its punctilious pattern of the
+good knight, its ardent ambition in the young squire? The very name of
+knight has come to represent the petty triumph of a profiteer, and the
+very word squire the petty tyranny of a landlord. What has become of all
+that golden liberality of the Humanists, who found on the high
+tablelands of the culture of Hellas the very balance of repose in beauty
+that is most lacking in the modern world? The very Greek language that
+they loved has become a mere label for snuffy and snobbish dons, and a
+mere cock-shy for cheap and half-educated utilitarians, who make it a
+symbol of superstition and reaction. We have lived to see a time when
+the heroic legend of the Republic and the Citizen, which seemed to
+Jefferson the eternal youth of the world, has begun to grow old in its
+turn. We cannot recover the earthly estate of knighthood, to which all
+the colours and complications of heraldry seemed as fresh and natural as
+flowers. We cannot re-enact the intellectual experiences of the
+Humanists, for whom the Greek grammar was like the song of a bird in
+spring. The more the matter is considered the clearer it will seem that
+these old experiences are now only alive, where they have found a
+lodgment in the Catholic tradition of Christendom, and made themselves
+friends for ever. St. Francis is the only surviving troubadour. St.
+Thomas More is the only surviving Humanist. St. Louis is the only
+surviving knight.
+
+It would be the worst sort of insincerity, therefore, to conclude even
+so hazy an outline of so great and majestic a matter as the American
+democratic experiment, without testifying my belief that to this also
+the same ultimate test will come. So far as that democracy becomes or
+remains Catholic and Christian, that democracy will remain democratic.
+In so far as it does not, it will become wildly and wickedly
+undemocratic. Its rich will riot with a brutal indifference far beyond
+the feeble feudalism which retains some shadow of responsibility or at
+least of patronage. Its wage-slaves will either sink into heathen
+slavery, or seek relief in theories that are destructive not merely in
+method but in aim; since they are but the negations of the human
+appetites of property and personality. Eighteenth-century ideals,
+formulated in eighteenth-century language, have no longer in themselves
+the power to hold all those pagan passions back. Even those documents
+depended upon Deism; their real strength will survive in men who are
+still Deists; and the men who are still Deists are more than Deists. Men
+will more and more realise that there is no meaning in democracy if
+there is no meaning in anything; and that there is no meaning in
+anything if the universe has not a centre of significance and an
+authority that is the author of our rights. There is truth in every
+ancient fable, and there is here even something of it in the fancy that
+finds the symbol of the Republic in the bird that bore the bolts of
+Jove. Owls and bats may wander where they will in darkness, and for them
+as for the sceptics the universe may have no centre; kites and vultures
+may linger as they like over carrion, and for them as for the plutocrats
+existence may have no origin and no end; but it was far back in the land
+of legends, where instincts find their true images, that the cry went
+forth that freedom is an eagle, whose glory is gazing at the sun.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's What I Saw in America, by G. K. Chesterton
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