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+Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Critic in the Orient
+
+Author: George Hamlin Fitch
+
+Release Date: November 11, 2008 [EBook #27233]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE CRITIC
+  IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     The Taj Mahal at
+      Agra. This Tomb,
+    Built by Shah Jahan
+    to Immortalize His
+     Favorite Wife, Is
+    Conceded to be the
+  Most Beautiful Building
+       in the World
+  "Matchless, perfect in
+     form, a miracle
+  Of grace and tenderness
+      and symmetry,
+  Pearl-pure against the
+    sapphire of the
+          sky"]
+
+
+
+
+                       THE CRITIC
+                     IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+                  GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH
+
+                       AUTHOR OF
+           "COMFORT FOUND IN GOOD OLD BOOKS"
+            "MODERN ENGLISH BOOKS OF POWER"
+              "THE CRITIC IN THE OCCIDENT"
+
+
+           East is East and West is West and
+              never the twain shall meet,
+           Till Earth and Sky stand presently
+             at God's great Judgment Seat.
+                       --Kipling
+
+
+                      ILLUSTRATED
+                          FROM
+                      PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+
+                 PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY
+               PUBLISHERS � SAN FRANCISCO
+
+
+
+
+                   _Copyright, 1913_
+               by PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY
+
+                  The chapters of this
+            book appeared originally in the
+  Sunday supplement of the San Francisco _Chronicle_.
+           The privilege of reproducing them
+             here is due to the courtesy of
+                  M. H. de Young, Esq.
+
+                 The author is greatly
+           indebted to Isaac O. Upham, Esq.,
+     for the fine photographs which illustrate the
+            section on Japan and for several
+                 photographs of Indian
+                         scenes
+
+
+
+
+                 TO MY FELLOW TOURISTS
+                ON THE MINNESOTA, WHOSE
+                COMPANIONSHIP MADE MANY
+                TEDIOUS JOURNEYS BY LAND
+                   AND SEA ENJOYABLE
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+  Introduction                                                IX
+
+
+  The Best Results of Travel in the Orient                  XIII
+
+
+  Japan, The Picture Country of the Orient                     1
+
+  First Impressions of Japan and the Life of the Japanese--
+  The Japanese Capital and its Parks and Temples--The
+  Most Famous City of Temples in all Japan--In Kyoto,
+  The Ancient Capital of Japan--Kobe, Osaka, The Inland
+  Sea and Nagasaki--Development of the Japanese Sense of
+  Beauty--Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character--
+  Will the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?
+
+
+  Manila, Transformed by the Americans                        49
+
+  First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People--
+  American Work in the Philippine Islands--Scenes in the
+  City of Manila and Suburbs.
+
+
+  Hongkong, Canton, Singapore and Rangoon                     63
+
+  Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient--A
+  Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic--Singapore, the
+  Meeting Place of Many Races--strange Night Scenes in
+  the City of Singapore--Characteristic Sights in Burma's
+  Largest City.
+
+
+  India, The Land of Temples, Palaces and Monuments           93
+
+  Calcutta, the Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities--Bathing,
+  and Burning the Dead at Benares--Lucknow and Cawnpore,
+  Cities of the Mutiny--The Taj Mahal, the World's
+  Loveliest Building--Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan
+  Ruins--Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived--Religion
+  and Customs of the Bombay Parsees.
+
+
+  Egypt, The Home of Hieroglyphs, Tombs and Mummies          135
+
+  Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo--Among the
+  Ruins of Luxor and Karnak--Tombs of The Kings at
+  Ancient Thebes--Sailing Down the Nile on a Small
+  Steamer--Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx.
+
+
+  Hints for Travelers                                        167
+
+  Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and
+  Money.
+
+
+  Bibliography                                               171
+
+  Books Which Help One to Understand the Orient and
+  Its People.
+
+
+  Index                                                      175
+
+
+
+
+  ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+  The Taj Mahal at Agra                           _Frontispiece_
+
+  The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko          _Facing_ 14
+
+  The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha at Hyogo                30
+
+  Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila                        56
+
+  The City of Boats at Canton                                 74
+
+  Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares                   100
+
+  Front View of the Taj Mahal, Agra                          114
+
+  One of the Main Avenues of Bombay                          126
+
+  The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak                         146
+
+
+  PLATES
+
+                                                           PLATE
+
+  Japan                                 _Following page_ 48
+
+  Street Scene, Asakusa Park, Tokyo                            I
+
+  Entrance Hall of Modern Home of a Tokyo Millionaire         II
+
+  Bronze Lanterns and Sacred Fountain, Shiba Temple, Tokyo   III
+
+  Sacred Red Bridge at Nikko                                  IV
+
+  Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko               V
+
+  Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko                     VI
+
+  Great Bronze Torii, Nikko                                  VII
+
+  Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara                  VIII
+
+  Religious Procession, Kyoto                                 IX
+
+  Scene on Canal, Kyoto                                        X
+
+  Street Scene in Kobe                                        XI
+
+  A Group of Japanese Schoolboys                             XII
+
+  Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside                    XIII
+
+  Scene in Large Private Garden, Kyoto                       XIV
+
+  Iris Bed at Horikiri, near Tokyo                            XV
+
+  Private Garden, Kamakura                                   XVI
+
+
+  Manila                                _Following page_ 62
+
+  A Glimpse of the Escolta, Manila                          XVII
+
+  Old Church and Bridge at Pasig                           XVIII
+
+  The Binondo Canal at Manila                                XIX
+
+  On the Malecon Drive, Manila                                XX
+
+  View on a Manila Canal                                     XXI
+
+  A Filipino Peasant Girl on the Way to Market              XXII
+
+  The Carabao Cart in the Philippines                      XXIII
+
+  The Nipa Hut of the Filipino                              XXIV
+
+
+  Hongkong, Canton, Singapore, Rangoon  _Following page_  91
+
+  Queen's Road in Hongkong.                                  XXV
+
+  Flower Market in a Hongkong Street                        XXVI
+
+  Coolies Carrying Burdens at Hongkong                     XXVII
+
+  The Spacious Foreign Bund at Hongkong                   XXVIII
+
+  Chinese Junks in Hongkong Harbor                          XXIX
+
+  View of the Water-front at Canton                          XXX
+
+  The New Chinese Bund at Canton                            XXXI
+
+  A Confucian Festival at Singapore                        XXXII
+
+  A Main Street in the Native Quarter of Singapore        XXXIII
+
+  The Y. M. C. A. Building at Singapore                    XXXIV
+
+  The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon                    XXXV
+
+  Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda                        XXXVI
+
+  Burmese Worshipping in the Pagoda at Rangoon            XXXVII
+
+  Riverside Scene at Rangoon                             XXXVIII
+
+  Trained Elephant Piling Teak at Rangoon                  XXXIX
+
+  Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon                           XL
+
+
+  India                                 _Following page_ 134
+
+  One of the Main Gates to Government House, Calcutta        XLI
+
+  A Street Scene in Calcutta                                XLII
+
+  The Great Burning Ghat at Benares                        XLIII
+
+  View of the Bathing Ghats at Benares                      XLIV
+
+  A Holy Man of Benares Under His Umbrella                   XLV
+
+  The Residency at Lucknow                                  XLVI
+
+  Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet at Agra                          XLVII
+
+  The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore                         XLVIII
+
+  Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra              XLIX
+
+  The Jasmine Tower in Agra Fort                               L
+
+  Snap-shot of a Jain Family at Agra                          LI
+
+  The Fort at Agra Which Encloses Many Palaces               LII
+
+  Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi     LIII
+
+  Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth, Delhi                        LIV
+
+  Street View in Delhi                                        LV
+
+  A Parsee Tower of Silence at Bombay                        LVI
+
+
+  Egypt                                 _Following page_ 164
+
+  A Typical Street in Old Cairo                             LVII
+
+  An Arab Cafe in One of Cairo's Streets                   LVIII
+
+  Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume                    LIX
+
+  The Rameseon at Karnak                                      LX
+
+  The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak                           LXI
+
+  An Arab Village on the Nile                               LXII
+
+  The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes                       LXIII
+
+  The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple Underneath           LXIV
+
+
+
+
+Introduction
+
+
+This book of impressions of the Far East is called "The Critic in the
+Orient," because the writer for over thirty years has been a
+professional critic of new books--one trained to get at the best in all
+literary works and reveal it to the reader. This critical work--a
+combination of rapid reading and equally rapid written estimate of new
+publications--would have been deadly, save for a love of books, so deep
+and enduring that it has turned drudgery into pastime and an enthusiasm
+for discovering good things in every new book which no amount of
+literary trash was ever able to smother.
+
+After years of such strenuous critical work, the mind becomes molded in
+a certain cast. It is as impossible for me to put aside the habit of the
+literary critic as it would be for a hunter who had spent his whole life
+in the woods to be content in a great city. So when I started out on
+this trip around the world the critical apparatus which I had used in
+getting at the heart of books was applied to the people and the places
+along this great girdle about the globe.
+
+Much of the benefit of foreign travel depends upon the reading that one
+has done. For years my eager curiosity about places had led me to read
+everything printed about the Orient and the South Seas. Add to this the
+stories which were brought into a newspaper office by globe trotters and
+adventurers, and you have an equipment which made me at times seem to be
+merely revising impressions made on an earlier journey. When you talk
+with a man who has spent ten or twenty years in Japan or China or the
+Straits Settlements, you cannot fail to get something of the color of
+life in those strange lands, especially if you have the newspaper
+training which impels you to ask questions and to drag out of your
+informant everything of human interest that the reader will care to
+know.
+
+This newspaper instinct, which is developed by training but which one
+must possess in large measure before he can be successful in journalism,
+seizes upon everything and transmutes it into "copy" for the printer. To
+have taken this journey without setting down every day my impressions of
+places and people would have been a tiresome experience. What seemed
+labor to others who had not had my special training was as the breath in
+my nostrils. Even in the debilitating heat of the tropics it was always
+a pastime, never a task, to put into words my ideas of the historic
+places which I knew so well from years of reading and which I had just
+seen. And the richer the background of history, the greater was my
+enjoyment in painting with words full of color a picture of my
+impressions, for the benefit of those who were not able to share my
+pleasure in the actual sight of these famous places of the Far East.
+
+From the mass of newspaper letters written while every impression was
+sharp and clear, I have selected what seemed to me most significant and
+illustrative. It is only when the traveler looks back over a journey
+that he gets the true perspective. Then only is he able to see what is
+of general and permanent interest. Most of the vexations of travel I
+have eliminated, as these lose their force once they have gone over into
+yesterday. What remains is the beauty of scenery, the grandeur of
+architecture, the spiritual quality of famous paintings and statues, the
+appealing traits of various peoples.
+
+
+
+
+  The Best
+  Results of Travel in
+  the Orient
+
+
+The Best Results of Travel in the Orient
+
+This volume includes impressions of the first half of a trip around the
+world. The remainder of the journey will fill a companion volume, which
+will comprise two chapters devoted to New York and the effect it
+produced on me after seeing the great cities of the world. As I have
+said in the preface, these are necessarily first impressions, jotted
+down when fresh and clear; but it is doubtful whether a month spent in
+any of these places would have forced a revision of these first
+glimpses, set in the mordant of curiosity and enthusiasm. When the mind
+is saturated with the literature of a place, it is quick to seize on
+what appeals to the imagination, and this appeal is the one which must
+be considered in every case where there is an historical or legendary
+background to give salient relief to palace or temple, statue or
+painting. Without this background the noblest work seems dull and
+lifeless. With it the palace stamps itself upon the imagination, the
+temple stirs the emotions, the statue speaks, the painting has a direct
+spiritual message.
+
+Certain parts of the Orient are not rich in this imaginative material
+which appeals to one fond of history or art; but this defect is
+compensated for by an extraordinary picturesqueness of life and a
+wonderful luxuriance of nature. The Oriental trip also makes less demand
+on one's reading than even a hasty journey through Europe. There are few
+pictures, few statues. Only India and Egypt appeal to the sense of the
+historical, Japan stands alone, alien to all our ways of life and
+thought, but so intensely artistic, so saturated with the intellectual
+spirit that it seems to belong to another world than this material,
+commercial existence that stamps all European and American life. The new
+China furnishes an attractive field of study, but unfortunately when I
+visited the country it was in the throes of revolution and travel was
+dangerous anywhere outside the great treaty ports.
+
+One of the best results of foreign travel is that it makes one revise
+his estimate of alien races. When I started out it was with a strong
+prejudice against the Japanese, probably due to my observation of some
+rather unlovely specimens whom I had encountered in San Francisco. A
+short stay in Japan served to give me a new point of view in regard to
+both the people and the country of the Mikado. It was impossible to
+escape from the fact that here is a race which places loyalty to country
+and personal honor higher than life, and this sentiment was not confined
+to the educated and wealthy classes but was general throughout the
+nation. Here also is a people so devoted to the culture of beauty that
+they travel hundreds of miles to see the annual chrysanthemum and other
+flower festivals. And here is a people so devoted to art for art's sake
+that even the poor and uneducated have little gardens in their back
+yards and houses which reveal a refined taste in architecture and
+decoration. The poorest artisans are genuine artists and their work
+shows a beauty and a finish only to be found in the work of the highest
+designers in our country.
+
+In one chapter of the section on Japan, I have dwelt on the ingenious
+theory that it is their devotion to the garden that has kept the
+Japanese from being spoiled by the great strides they have made in the
+last twenty years in commerce and conquest. To take foremost place
+among the powers of the world without any preliminary struggle is an
+achievement which well might turn the heads of any people; yet this
+exploit has simply confirmed the Japanese in the opinion that their
+national training has resulted in this success that other nations have
+won only by the expenditure of years of labor and study. When you see
+the reverence which every one in Japan shows at the tombs of the
+Forty-seven Ronins, you feel that here is a spiritual force which is
+lacking in every European country; here is something, whether you call
+it loyalty or patriotism or fanaticism, which makes even the women and
+children of Japan eager to sacrifice all that they hold most dear on the
+altar of their country. No less striking than their loyalty is the
+courtesy of the Japanese which makes travel in their country a pleasure.
+Even the poor and ignorant country people show in their mutual relations
+a politeness that would do credit to the most civilized race, while all
+exhibit toward foreigners a courtesy and consideration that is often
+repaid by boorishness and insult on the part of tourists and foreign
+residents of Japan. Another feature of Japanese life that cannot fail to
+impress the stranger is the small weight that is given to wealth. In
+their relations with foreigners the governing class and the wealthy
+people are sticklers for all the conventional forms; but among
+themselves the simplicity of their social life is very attractive.
+Elaborate functions are unknown and changes of costume, which make
+women's dress so large an item of family expense in any European
+country, are unnecessary. Some of the rich Japanese are now lavishing
+money on their homes, which are partly modeled on European plans; but in
+the main the residences, even of rich people, are very simple and
+unpretentious. These homes are filled with priceless porcelains, jades,
+paintings and prints, but there is no display merely for the sake of
+exhibiting art treasures.
+
+In Manila the American tourist has a good opportunity to contrast what
+has been done by his countrymen with what the British have accomplished
+in ports like Hongkong and Singapore. Doubtless the English plan will
+show the larger financial returns, but it is carried out with a selfish
+disregard of the interests of the natives which stirs the gorge of an
+American. The Englishman believes in keeping a wide gulf between the
+dominant and the humble classes. He does not believe in educating the
+native to think that he can rise from the class in which he is born. The
+American scheme in the Philippines has been to encourage the development
+of character and efficiency, wherever found; and the result is that many
+public positions are open to men who were head-hunting savages ten years
+ago. Above all other things in the Philippines we have proved, as we
+have shown at Panama, that a tropical climate need not be an unhealthful
+one. We have banished from Manila cholera, yellow fever and bubonic
+plague--three pests that once made it dreaded in the Orient. This, with
+an ample water supply, is an achievement worthy of pride, when one
+contrasts it with the unsanitary sewerage system of Hongkong and
+Singapore.
+
+The small part of the great Chinese Empire which I was able to see gave
+me a vivid impression of the activity and enthusiasm of the people in
+spreading the new Republican doctrines. The way old things have been put
+aside and the new customs adopted seems almost like a miracle. Fancy a
+whole people discarding their time-honored methods of examination for
+the civil service, along with their queues, their caps and their shoes.
+All the authorities have predicted that China would be centuries in
+showing the same changes which the Japanese have made in a single
+generation; but recent events go far to prove that Japan will be
+outstripped in the race for progress by its slow-going neighbor. What
+profoundly impresses any visitor to China is the stamina and the
+working capacity of the common people. Tireless laborers these Chinese
+are, whether they work for themselves or the European. What they will be
+able to accomplish with labor-saving machinery no one can predict.
+Certainly should they accept modern methods of work, with the same
+enthusiasm that they have adopted new methods of government, the markets
+of the world will be upset by the product of these four hundred million.
+China is to-day in transformation--fluctuant, far-reaching, limited only
+by the capacity of a singularly excitable people to absorb new ideas.
+
+In India great is the contrast to China and Japan. Here is an old
+civilization, founded on caste: here are many peoples but all joined to
+the worship of a system that says the son must follow in the footsteps
+of the father; that one cannot break bread with a stranger of another
+caste lest he and his tribe be defiled. Nothing more hideous was ever
+conceived than this Indian caste system, yet it has held its own against
+the force of foreign learning and probably will continue to fetter the
+development of the natives of India for centuries to come. Some simple
+reforms the English have secured, like the abolition of suttee and the
+improved condition of the child widows; but their influence on the great
+mass of the people has been pitiably small. India bears the same
+relation to the Orient that Italy does to Europe. It is the home of
+temples, palaces and monuments; it is the land of beautiful art work in
+many materials. Most of its cities have a splendid historical past that
+is seen in richly ornamented temples and shrines, in the tombs of its
+illustrious dead and in palaces that surpass in beauty of decoration
+anything which Europe can boast.
+
+In considering India it must always be borne in mind that here was the
+original seat of the Aryan civilization and that, though the Hindoo is
+as dark as many of the American negroes, he is of Aryan stock like
+ourselves. In comparison with the men who carried Aryan civilization
+throughout the world, the Hindoo of to-day is as far removed as is the
+modern Greek from the Greek of the time of Pericles and Phidias. Yet he
+shows all the signs of race in clear-cut features and in small hands and
+feet.
+
+The journey throughout India is one which calls for some philosophy, as
+the train arrangements are never good and, unless one has the luck to
+secure a competent guide, he will be annoyed by the excessive greed of
+every one with whom he comes in contact. But aside from such troubles
+the trip is one which richly repays the traveler. If one has time it is
+admirable to go off the beaten track to some of the minor places which
+have fine historical remains; but a good idea of India may be obtained
+by taking the regular route from Calcutta to Bombay, by way of Delhi.
+
+In Benares the tourist first meets the swarms of beggars that make life
+a burden. Aged men, with loathsome sores, stand whining at corners
+beseeching the favor of a two-anna piece; blind men, led by small,
+skinny children, set up a mournful wail and then curse you fluently when
+you pass them by, and scores of children rise up out of hovels at the
+roadside and pursue your carriage with shrill screams. All are filthy,
+clamorous, greedy, inexpressibly offensive. If you are soft hearted and
+give to one, then your day is made hideous by a swarm of mendicants,
+tireless in pursuit and only kept from actual invasion of the carriage
+by fear of the driver's whip.
+
+The feature which makes travel on Indian railways a weariness of the
+flesh is the roughness of the cars. Each truck on the passenger cars is
+provided with two large wheels, exactly like those on freight cars, and
+these wheels have wooden felloes and spokes. With poor springs the
+result is that though the road-bed is perfect the cars are as rough as
+our freight cars. When the speed is over twenty-five miles an hour or
+the road is crooked, the motion of the cars is well nigh intolerable.
+Ordinarily the motion is so great that reading is difficult and writing
+out of the question. At night the jar of the car is so severe that one
+must be very tired or very phlegmatic to get any refreshing sleep. When
+one travels all day and all night at a stretch--as in the journey from
+Jeypore to Bombay--the fatigue is out of all proportion to the distance
+covered. In fact Americans have been spoiled by the comforts of Pullman
+sleeping-cars, in which foreign critics find so many flaws. Probably the
+chief annoyance to our party of Americans, aside from the jar of the
+cars, was the dust and soot which poured in day and night. The engines
+burn soft coal and the dust on the road-beds is excessive. A system of
+double windows and well-fitting screens would remove this nuisance, but
+apparently the British in India think dust and grime necessary features
+of railway travel, for no effort is made to eliminate them.
+
+No Oriental trip would be complete without a visit to Egypt, and
+especially a ride on the Nile. It is more difficult to make anyone
+realize the charm of Egypt than of any other country of the Orient. The
+people are dirty, ignorant, brutish: their faces contain no appeal
+because they are the faces of Millet's "The Man With the Hoe." Centuries
+of subjection have killed the pride which still lingers in the face and
+bearing of the poorest Arab; the Egyptian peasant does not wear the
+collar of Gurth, but he is a slave of the soil whose day of freedom is
+afar off. Yet these degenerate people are seen against a background of
+the most imposing ruins in the world. Luxor and Karnak and the tombs of
+the kings near old Thebes contain enough remains of the splendor of
+ancient Egyptian life to permit study for years. The mind is appalled by
+this mass of temples, monuments, obelisks and colossal statues. It is
+difficult to realize that the same people who are seen toiling in the
+fields to-day raised these huge monuments to perpetuate the names of
+their rulers. A climate as dry as that of the Colorado desert has
+preserved these remains, so that in the rock tombs one may gaze upon
+brightly painted hieroglyphs of the time of Moses that look as though
+they were carved yesterday.
+
+In this Oriental tour the stamp of strange religions is over all the
+lands. The temple is the keynote of each race. And religion with the
+Oriental is not a matter of one day's worship in seven: it is a vital,
+daily function into which he puts all the dreamy mysticism of his race.
+The first sight of several Mohammedans bowed in the dust by the
+roadside, with their faces set toward Mecca, gives one a strange thrill,
+but this spectacle soon loses its novelty. Everywhere in the Far East
+religion is a matter of form and ceremony: it includes regular visits to
+the temple and regular prayers and offerings to the deities enshrined in
+these houses of worship. But it also includes a daily ritual that must
+be observed at certain fixed hours, even though the believer may be in
+the midst of the crowded market place. The spiritual isolation of an
+Oriental at his prayers in any big city of the Far East is the most
+significant feature of this life--so alien to all the mental, moral, and
+religious training of the Occident. Vain is it for one of Anglo-Saxon
+strain to attempt to bridge this abyss that lies between his mind and
+that of the Burman or the Parsee. Each lives in a spiritual world of his
+own and each would be homesick for heaven were he transferred to the
+ideal paradise of the other. So the traveler in the Orient should give
+heed to the temples, for in them is voiced the spiritual aspirations of
+the people, who have little of comfort or hope to cheer them in this
+world.
+
+
+
+
+  JAPAN, THE
+  PICTURE COUNTRY OF
+  THE ORIENT
+
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN AND THE LIFE OF THE JAPANESE
+
+Yokohama looks very beautiful to the traveler who has spent over two
+weeks on the long sea voyage from Seattle; but it has little to commend
+it to the tourist, for most of its native traits have been Europeanized.
+It is noteworthy, however, as the best place except Hongkong for the
+traveler to purchase an oriental outfit and it is probably the cheapest
+place in the world for trunks and bags and all leather goods. Its bund,
+or water-front, is spacious and its leading hotels are very comfortable.
+
+Of Japan and the Japanese, all that can be given are a few general
+impressions of the result of two weeks of constant travel over the
+empire and of talks with many people.
+
+Of the country itself, the prevailing impression of the tourist, who
+crosses it on the railroad or who takes rides through the paddy fields
+in a rickshaw, is of a perennial greenness. Instead of the tawny yellow
+of California in October, one sees here miles on miles of rice fields,
+some of vivid green, others of green turning to gold. The foothills of
+the mountains remind one of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, as they
+all bear evidences of the rounding and smoothing of glacial action.
+
+At a distance the rice fields look like grain fields, but seen near at
+hand they are found to be great swamps of water, with row on row of
+rice, the dead furrows either serving as ditches or as raised paths
+across the fields. Every bit of hillside is terraced and planted to rice
+or vegetables or fruit.
+
+Often these little, terraced fields, which look like the natural mesa of
+southern California, will not be over fifty feet long by ten or fifteen
+feet wide. Between the rows of fruit trees are vegetables or corn or
+sorghum. The farmers live in little villages and apparently go home
+every night after tilling their fields. There are none of the scattered
+farmhouses, with trees around them, which are so characteristic a
+feature of any American rural scene.
+
+The towns as well as the cities show a uniformity of architecture, as
+most of the shops are one story or a story and one-half, while the
+residences seem to be built on a uniform plan, with great variety in
+gateways and decoration of grounds. Most of the roofs are made of a
+black clay, corrugated so that it looks like the Spanish-American tile,
+and many of the walls that surround residences and temples are of adobe,
+with a tiled covering, precisely as one sees to-day the remains of adobe
+walls in old Spanish-Californian towns.
+
+The general impression of any Japanese city when seen from a height is
+that of a great expanse of low buildings with a liberal sprinkling of
+trees and a few pagodas or roofs of Buddhist temples.
+
+The strongest impression that the unprejudiced observer receives in
+Japan is of the small value set upon labor as well as upon time by the
+great mass of the people. In Yokohama and in Kobe, which show the most
+signs of foreign influence, the same traits prevail.
+
+It is one of the astonishing spectacles of the world, this
+accomplishment of the business of a great nation by man power alone.
+Only in one city, Osaka, the Chicago of Japan, is there any general
+evidence of the adoption of up-to-date methods in manufacturing.
+Everywhere one sees all the small industries of the country carried on
+in the same way that they were conducted in Palestine in the time of
+Christ.
+
+Everywhere men, harnessed to heavy push carts, are seen straining to
+haul loads that are enough for a horse. The few horses in the cities are
+used for heavy trucks, in common with bulls, for the Japanese bull is a
+beast of burden and not one of the lords of creation as in our own
+country.
+
+The bull is harnessed with a short neckyoke and a saddle on his back,
+which bears a close resemblance to the riding saddle of the Cossack.
+Some rope traces are hitched to crude, home-made whiffletrees. The bull,
+as well as the horse, is guided by a rope line. The carts are remarkably
+heavy, with wheels of great weight, yet many of these carts are pulled
+by two men.
+
+In the big cities may be seen a few victorias, or other carriages, and
+an occasional motor car, but both these means of conveyance can be used
+with safety only on the broadest avenues. In the narrow streets of the
+native quarter, which seldom exceed ten feet in width and which have no
+sidewalks, the jinrikisha is the only carriage. This is a light,
+two-wheeled gig, drawn by one man and frequently on the steep grades
+pushed from the back by a second man. The rickshaw man has a bell gong
+on one shaft, which he rings when approaching a sharp turn in the street
+or when he sees several trucks or other rickshaws approaching. The bell
+also serves to warn old people or children who may be careless, for the
+rickshaw has the right of way and the pedestrian must turn to either
+side to give it the road. Americans, who are far more considerate of the
+feelings of the Japanese than other foreigners, frequently may be seen
+walking up the steep grades in such hilly cities as Nikko, Nara and
+Kobe, but long residence in Japan is said to make everyone callous of
+the straining and the sweating of the rickshaw man.
+
+Purposely my itinerary included a number of little towns, which
+practically have been uninfluenced by foreign customs. In these places
+may be seen the primitive Japanese life, unchanged for hundreds of
+years. Yet everywhere one cannot fail to be impressed by the tireless
+industry of the people, and by their general good nature and courtesy.
+
+In any other country in the world, a party of Americans with their
+foreign dress would have provoked some insulting remarks, some gestures
+that could not be mistaken; but here in rural Japan was seen the same
+perfect courtesy shown in the Europeanized sections of the big cities.
+The people, to be sure, made no change in their way of life. Mothers
+suckled their infants in front of their little shops, and children stood
+naked and unashamed, lost in wonder over the strange spectacle of the
+party of foreign people that dashed by in rickshaws.
+
+Naked men, with only a G-string to distinguish them from the costume of
+Adam before the expulsion from Eden, labored at many tasks, and
+frequently our little cavalcade swept by the great Government schools
+where hundreds of little Japanese are being educated to help out the
+manifest destiny of the empire.
+
+This courtesy and good nature among the poorest class of the Japanese
+people is not confined to their treatment of foreigners; it extends to
+all their daily relations with one another. A nearly naked coolie
+pulling a heavy cart begs a light for his cigarette with a bow that
+would do honor to a Chesterfield.
+
+A street blockade that in New York or San Francisco would not be
+untangled without much profanity and some police interference is cleared
+here in a moment because everyone is willing to yield and to recognize
+that the most heavily burdened has the right of way.
+
+In all my wanderings by day or night in the large Japanese cities I
+never except once saw a policeman lift his, hand to exercise his
+authority. This exception was in Tokio, where a band of mischievous
+schoolboys was following a party of gayly dressed ladies in rickshaws
+and laughing and chattering. The guardian of the peace admonished them
+with a few short, crisp words, and they scuttled into the nearest
+alleys.
+
+The industry of the people, whether in city or country, is as amazing as
+their courtesy. The Japanese work seven days in the week, and the year
+is broken only by a few festivals that are generally observed by the
+complete cessation of labor. In the large cities work goes on in most of
+the shops until ten or eleven o'clock at night, and it is resumed at six
+o'clock the next morning.
+
+The most impressive spectacle during several night rides through miles
+of Tokio streets was the number of young lads from twelve to sixteen
+years of age who had fallen asleep at their tasks. With head pillowed on
+arm they slumbered on the hard benches, where they had been working
+since early morning, while the older men labored alongside at their
+tasks.
+
+From the train one saw the rice farmer and his wife and children working
+in the paddy fields as long as they could see. These people do not work
+with the fierce energy of the American mechanic, but their workday is
+from twelve to fourteen hours and, considering these long hours, they
+show great industry and conscientiousness.
+
+In some places women were employed at the hardest work, such as coaling
+ships by hand and digging and carrying earth from canals and ditches.
+
+Scarcely less impressive than the tireless industry of the people is the
+enormous number of children that may be seen both in city and country.
+It was impossible to get statistics of births, but any American
+traveling through Japan must be struck with the fact that this is a land
+not threatened by race suicide.
+
+Women who looked far beyond the time of motherhood were suckling
+infants, while all the young women seemed well provided with children.
+Girls of five or six were playing games with sleeping infants strapped
+to their backs, and even boys were impressed into this nursery work. The
+younger children are clothed only in kimonos, so that the passer-by
+witnesses many strange sights of naked Japanese cherubs.
+
+In all quarters of Tokio the children were as numerous as in tenement
+streets of American cities on a Sunday afternoon, and in small country
+towns the number of children seemed even greater than in the big cities.
+
+Another feature of Japanese life that made a profound impression on me
+was the pilgrimage of school children to the various sacred shrines
+throughout the empire. At Nikko and at Nara, two of the great seats of
+Buddhist and Shinto shrines, these child pilgrims were conspicuous. They
+were seen in bands of fifty or seventy-five, attended by tutors. The
+boys were dressed in blue or black jackets, white or blue trousers and
+white leggings. Each carried his few belongings in a small box or a
+handkerchief and each had an umbrella to protect him from the frequent
+showers.
+
+The girls had dark red merino skirts, with kimono waists of some dark
+stuff. Many were without stockings, but all wore straw sandals or those
+with wooden sole and heavy wooden clogs. School children are admitted to
+temples and shrines at half rates and in every place the guides pay
+special attention to these young visitors.
+
+Pilgrimages of soldiers and others are also very common. Whenever a
+party of one hundred is formed it receives the benefit of the half-rate
+admission. No observant tourist can fail to see that in the pilgrimages
+of these school children and these soldiers the authorities of new Japan
+find the best means of stimulating patriotism. Church and State are so
+closely welded that the Mikado is regarded as a god. Passionate devotion
+to country is the great ruling power which separates Japan from all
+other modern nations.
+
+The number of young men who leave their country to escape the three
+years' conscription is very small. The schoolboy in his most
+impressionable years is brought to these sacred shrines; he listens to
+the story of the Forty-seven Ronins and other tales of Japanese
+chivalry; his soul is fired to imitate their self-sacrificing
+patriotism. The bloody slopes of Port Arthur witnessed the effect of
+such training as this.
+
+
+THE JAPANESE CAPITAL AND ITS PARKS AND TEMPLES
+
+Tokio, the capital of Japan, is a picturesque city of enormous extent
+and the tourist who sees it in two or three days must expect to do
+strenuous work. The city, which actually covers one hundred square
+miles, is built on the low shore of Tokio bay and is intersected by the
+Sumi river and a network of narrow canals. The river and these canals
+are crossed by frequent bridges. At night the tourist may mark his
+approach to one of these canals by the evil odors that poison the air.
+Even in October the air is sultry in Tokio during the day and far into
+the night, but toward morning a penetrating damp wind arises.
+
+Although Tokio's main streets have been widened to imposing avenues that
+run through a series of great parks, the native life may be studied on
+every hand--for a block from the big streets, with their clanging
+electric cars, one comes upon narrow alleys lined with shops and teeming
+with life. Here, for the first time, the tourist sees Japanese city
+life, only slightly influenced by foreign customs. The streets are not
+more than twelve or fifteen feet wide, curbed on each side by flat
+blocks of granite, seldom more than a foot or eighteen inches wide.
+These furnish the only substitute for a sidewalk in rainy weather, as
+most of the streets are macadamized. A slight rainfall wets the surface
+and makes walking for the foreigner very disagreeable. The Japanese use
+in rainy weather the wooden sandal with two transverse clogs about two
+inches high, which lifts him out of the mud. All Japanese dignitaries
+and nearly all foreigners use the jinrikisha, which has the right of way
+in the narrow streets. The most common sound in the streets is the bell
+of the rickshaw man or his warning shout of "Hi! Hi!"
+
+My first day's excursion included a ride through Shiba and Hibiya parks
+to Uyeno Park, the resting place of many of the shoguns. This makes a
+trip which will consume the entire day. Shiba Park is noteworthy for its
+temples (which contain some of the most remarkable specimens of Japanese
+art) and for the tombs of seven of the fifteen shoguns or native rulers
+who preceded the Mikado in the government of Japan. The first and third
+shoguns are buried at Nikko, while the fourth, fifth, eighth, ninth,
+eleventh and thirteenth lie in Uyeno Park, Tokio. These mortuary chapels
+in Shiba Park are all similar in general design, the only differences
+being in the lavishness of the decoration. Out of regard for the foreign
+visitor it is not necessary to remove one's shoes in entering these
+temples, as cloth covers are provided. Each temple is divided into three
+parts--the outer oratory, a corridor and the inner sanctum, where the
+shogun alone was privileged to worship. The daimyos or nobles were lined
+up in the corridor, while the smaller nobles and chiefs filled the
+oratory. It would be tedious to describe these temples, but one will
+serve as a specimen of all. This is the temple of the second shogun,
+which is noteworthy for the beauty of the decoration of the sanctum and
+the tomb.
+
+Two enormous gilded pillars support the vaulted roof of the sanctum,
+which is formed of beams in a very curious pattern. A frieze of
+medallions of birds, gilded and painted, runs around the top of the
+wall. The shrine dates back for two and one-half centuries and is of
+rich gold lacquer. The bronze incense burner, in the form of a lion,
+bears the date of 1635. The great war drum of Ieyasu, the first of the
+Tokugawa shoguns, lies upon a richly decorated stand. Back of the temple
+is the octagonal hall, which houses the tomb of the second shogun. This
+tomb is the largest example of gold lacquer in the world, and parts of
+it are inlaid with enamel and crystal. Scenes from Liao-Ling, China, and
+Lake Biwa, Japan, adorn the upper half, while the lower half bears
+elaborate decoration of the lion and the peony. The base of the tomb is
+a solid block of stone in the shape of the lotus. The hall is supported
+by eight pillars covered with gilded copper, and the walls are covered
+with gilded lacquer. The enormous amount of money expended on these
+shrines will amaze any foreign visitor, as well as the profound
+reverence shown by the Japanese for these resting places of the shoguns.
+
+Passing along a wide avenue traversed by electric cars one soon reaches
+Hibiya Park, one of the show places of Tokio. To the European tourist or
+the visitor from our Eastern States the beauty of the vegetation is a
+source of marvel, but San Francisco's Golden Gate Park can equal
+everything that grows here in the way of ornamental shrubs, trees and
+flowers. On the south side of the park are the Parliament buildings, and
+near by the fine, new brick buildings of the Naval and Judicial
+Departments and the courts. Near by are grouped many of the foreign
+legations, the palaces of princes and the mansions of the Japanese
+officials and foreign embassadors. Here also is the Museum of Arms,
+which is very interesting because of the many specimens of ancient
+Japanese weapons and the trophies of the wars with China and Russia. In
+this museum one may see the profound interest which the Japanese
+pilgrims from all parts of the empire take in these memorials of
+conquest. To them they rank with the sacred shrines as objects of
+veneration.
+
+Not far away is the moat which surrounds the massive walls of the
+imperial palace, open only to those who have the honor of an imperial
+audience. These walls are of granite laid up without mortar, the corner
+stones being of unusual size. The visitor may see the handsome roofs of
+the imperial palaces. Those who have been admitted declare that the
+decorations and the furniture are in the highest style of Japanese art,
+although the simplicity and the neutral colors that mark the Shinto
+temples prevail in the private chambers of the Emperor. In the throne
+chamber and the banquet hall, on the other hand, gold and brilliant hues
+make a blaze of color. Near the palace grounds are the Government
+printing office and a number of schools.
+
+Turning down into Yoken street, one of the great avenues of traffic, you
+soon reach Uyeno Park--the most popular pleasure ground of the capital,
+and famous in the spring for its long lines of cherry trees in full
+blossom. In the autumn it impressed me, as did all the other Japanese
+parks, as rather damp and unwholesome. The ground was saturated from
+recent rain; all the stonework was covered with moss and lichen; the
+trees dripped moisture, and the little lakes scattered here and there
+were like those gloomy tarns that Poe loved to paint in his poems. Near
+the entrance to this park is a shallow lake covered with lotus plants,
+and a short distance beyond from a little hill one may get a good view
+of the buildings of the imperial university. Here is a good foreign
+restaurant where one may enjoy a palatable lunch. Near by on a slight
+eminence stands a huge bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and one-half
+feet high, called the Daibutsu. It is one of several such figures
+scattered over the empire. Passing through a massive granite torii, or
+gate, one reaches an avenue of stately cryptomeria, or cedar trees that
+leads to a row of stone lanterns presented in 1651 by daimyos as a
+memorial to the first shogun. The temple beyond is famous for its
+beautiful lacquer.
+
+Near at hand are the temples and tombs of the six shoguns of the
+Tokugawa family, buried in Uyeno Park. These temples are regarded as
+among the finest remains of old Japanese art. The mortuary temples bear
+a close resemblance to those in Shiba Park. The second temple is the
+finer and is celebrated for the gilding of the interior walls, the
+gorgeous decoration of the shrines and the memorial tablets in gold
+lacquer. Here, also, are eight tablets erected to the memory of eight
+mothers of shoguns, all of whom were concubines.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+         The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko.
+  One of the Most Beautiful Gates in all Japan. The Columns
+    Are Painted White, with Capitals of Unicorn's Heads.
+       The Roof is Supported by Gilt Dragon's Heads.]
+
+A short distance from Uyeno Park is the great Buddhist temple known as
+Asakusa Kwannon, dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess of mercy. The
+approaches to this temple on any pleasant day look like a country fair.
+The crowd is so dense that jinrikishas can not approach within one
+hundred yards. The shrine dates back to the sixth century and the temple
+is the most popular resort of its kind in Tokio. On each side of the
+entrance lane are shops, where all kinds of curios, toys, cakes, et
+cetera, are sold. The temple itself is crowded with votaries who offer
+coins to the various idols, while below (near the stairs that give
+entrance to the temple) are various side booths that are patronized by
+worshipers. Some of these gods promise long life; others give
+happiness, and several insure big families to women who offer money and
+say prayers.
+
+One of the remarkable jinrikisha rides in Japan is that from Uyeno to
+Shimbashi station through the heart of Tokio by night. This takes about
+a half hour and it gives a series of pictures of the great Japanese city
+that can be gained in no other way. Here may be seen miles of little
+shops lining alleys not over ten or twelve feet wide, in most of which
+work is going on busily as late as eleven o'clock. In places the sleepy
+proprietors are putting up their shutters, preparatory to going to bed,
+but in others the work of artisan or baker or weaver goes on as though
+the day had only fairly begun. Most of these shops are lighted by
+electricity, but this light is the only modern thing about them. The
+weaver sits at the loom precisely as he sat two thousand years ago, and
+the baker kneads his dough and bakes his cakes precisely as he did
+before the days of the first shogun. This ride gives a panorama of
+oriental life which can be equaled in few cities in the world.
+Occasionally the jinrikisha dashes up a little bank and across a bridge
+that spans a canal and one catches a glimpse of long lines of house
+boats, with dim lights, nestling under overhanging balconies. Overall is
+that penetrating odor of the Far East, mingled with the smell of bilge
+water and the reek of thousands of sweating human beings. These smells
+are of the earth earthy and they led one to dream that night of weird
+and terrible creatures such as De Quincey paints in his _Confessions of
+an English Opium Eater_.
+
+
+THE MOST FAMOUS CITY OF TEMPLES IN ALL JAPAN
+
+The most magnificent temples in Japan are at Nikko, in the mountains,
+five hours' ride by train from Tokio. What makes this trip the more
+enjoyable to the American tourist is that the country reminds him of the
+Catskills, and that he gets some glimpses of primitive Japanese life.
+The Japanese have a proverb: "Do not use the word 'magnificent' until
+you have seen Nikko." And anyone who goes through the three splendid
+temples that serve as memorials of the early shoguns will agree that the
+proverb is true.
+
+The railroad ride to Nikko is tedious, although it furnishes greater
+variety than most of the other trips by rail through the Mikado's
+empire. But as soon as one is landed at the little station he recognizes
+that here is a place unlike any that he has seen. The road runs up a
+steep hill to the Kanaya Hotel, which is perched on a high bank
+overlooking the Daiyagawa river. Tall cedar trees clothe the banks, and
+across the river rise mountains, with the roofs of temples showing
+through the foliage at their base. This hotel is gratefully remembered
+by all tourists because of the artistic decoration of the rooms in
+Japanese style and the beneficent care of the proprietor, which includes
+a pretty kimono to wear to the morning bath, with straw sandals for the
+feet, and charming waitresses in picturesque costumes.
+
+The first Buddhist temple at Nikko dates back to the eighth century, but
+it was not until the seventeenth century that the place was made a
+national shrine by building here the mausoleum of the first shogun,
+Ieyasu, and of his grandson, Iemitsu. Hardly less noteworthy than these
+shrines and temples is the great avenue of giant cryptomeria trees,
+which stretches across the country for twenty miles, from Nikko to
+Utsunomiya.
+
+One of the chief objects of interest in Nikko is the Sacred Red Bridge
+which spans a swift stream about forty feet wide. This is a new bridge,
+as the old one was carried away by a great flood nine years ago.
+Originally built in 1638, it served to commemorate the legendary and
+miraculous bridging of the stream by Shodo Shonin, a saint. He arrived
+at the river one day while on a pilgrimage and called aloud for aid to
+cross. On the opposite bank appeared a being of gigantic size, who
+promised to help him, and at once flung across the stream two green and
+blue dragons which formed a bridge. When the saint was safely over the
+bridge, it vanished with the mysterious being. Shodo at once built a hut
+on the banks of the stream. For fourteen years he dwelt there and
+gathered many disciples. Then he established a monastery and a shrine at
+Lake Chuzinji, about nine miles from Nikko. Nine hundred years later the
+second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty sent two officials to Nikko to
+select a site for the mausoleum of his father. They chose a site near
+Nikko, on a hill called Hotoke-iwa, and in the spring of 1617 the tomb
+was completed and the coffin was deposited under it with appropriate
+Buddhist ceremonies.
+
+The road to the mausoleum winds around the river. The first object on
+the way is a pillar erected in 1643 to ward off evil influences. It is
+a cylindrical copper column forty-two feet high, supported by short
+horizontal bars of the same material, resting on four short columns.
+Small bells hung from lotus-shaped cups crown the summit of the column.
+Just beyond this column is a massive granite torii, twenty-seven and
+one-half feet high, the gift of the Daimiyo of Chikuzen. To the left is
+a five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet in height, which is
+especially graceful. Inside a red wooden wall are arranged a series of
+lacquered storehouses, a holy water cistern cut out of a solid block of
+granite, a finely decorated building in which rest a collection of
+Buddhist writings. A second court is reached by a flight of stairs. Here
+are gifts presented by the kings of Luchu, Holland and Korea, these
+three countries being regarded as vassal states of Japan. On the left is
+the Temple of Yahushi, beautifully decorated in red and gold lacquer,
+and just beyond is a fine gate, called Yomei-mon, decorated with
+medallions of birds. Passing through this gate, one reaches a court
+bordered by several small buildings, one of which contains the
+palanquins that are carried in the annual procession on June 1st, when
+the deified spirits of the first shogun, Hideyoshi (the great
+conqueror), and Yoritomo occupy them. Seventy-five men carry each of
+these palanquins.
+
+The main shrines are reached through the Chinese gate. The three
+chambers are magnificent specimens of the finest work in lacquer, gold
+and metal. The tomb of Ieyasu, the first shogun, is reached by ascending
+two hundred stone steps. The tomb is in the form of a small pagoda of
+bronze of an unusually light color caused by the mixture of gold. The
+body of the shogun is buried twenty feet deep in a bed of charcoal.
+Beyond is the mausoleum of Iemitsu, the third shogun. The oratory and
+chapel are richly decorated, but they do not compare with those of the
+first shogun's tomb. Back of these tombs, among the huge cedar trees
+that clothe the sides of the mountain, is a small red shrine where women
+offer little pieces of wood that they may pass safely through the
+dangers of childbirth. Near by is the tomb of Shodo, the saint, and
+three of his disciples.
+
+These mortuary temples and tombs are genuinely impressive. They bear
+many signs of age and it is evident that they are held in great
+veneration by the Japanese, who make pilgrimages at all seasons to offer
+up prayers at these sacred shrines. More impressive than the tombs
+themselves are the pilgrims. On the day that I visited this sacred
+shrine several large bands of pilgrims were entertained. One party was
+composed of over a hundred boys from one of the big government military
+schools. These lads were in uniform and each carried an umbrella and a
+lunch tied up in a handkerchief. The priests paid special attention to
+these young pilgrims and described for their benefit the marvels of
+carving and lacquer work. Services were held before the shrines and the
+glorious conquest of the shoguns and of Hideyoshi (popularly known as
+the Napoleon of Japan) were described in glowing words. The Russian
+cannon captured at Port Arthur, which stands near the entrance to the
+tombs, was not forgotten by these priests, who never fail to do their
+part in stimulating the patriotism of the young pilgrims.
+
+These boys were followed by an equal number of public school girls, all
+dressed in dark red merino skirts and kimonos of various colors. Some
+were without stockings and none wore any head covering, although each
+girl carried her lunch and the inevitable umbrella.
+
+After these children came several parties of mature pilgrims, some
+finely dressed and bearing every evidence of wealth and position, while
+others were clothed in poor garments and showed great deference to the
+priests and guides. All revealed genuine veneration for the sacred
+relics and all contributed according to their means to the various
+shrines. Some idea of the revenue drawn by the priests from tourists and
+pilgrims may be gained when it is said that admission is seventy sen (or
+thirty-five cents in American money) for each person, with half-rates to
+priests, teachers and school children, and to members of parties
+numbering one hundred.
+
+The shops at Nikko will be found well worth a visit, as this city is the
+market for many kinds of furs that are scarce in America. Many fine
+specimens of wood carving may also be seen in the shops. The main street
+of the town runs from the Kanaya Hotel to the railroad depot, a distance
+of a mile and one-half, and it is lined for nearly the whole distance
+with small shops.
+
+On his return to the railroad the tourist would do well to take a
+jinrikisha ride of five miles down through the great avenue of old
+cryptomeria trees to the little station of Imaichi. This is one of the
+most beautiful rides in the world. The road is bordered on each side by
+huge cedar trees which are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
+feet in height. In many cases the roots of these old trees have formed a
+natural embankment and the road is thus forced below the level of the
+surrounding rice fields. These trees were planted nearly three hundred
+years ago and they are certainly in a remarkable state of preservation.
+A few gaps there are, due to the vandalism of the country people, but
+mile after mile is passed with only an occasional break in these
+stately columns, crowned by the deep green masses of foliage. Another
+cryptomeria avenue intersects this and runs for twenty-five miles across
+the country. The two avenues were planted in order that they might be
+used by the shogun's messengers when they bore important letters to him
+during his summer residence in Nara.
+
+
+IN KYOTO, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF JAPAN
+
+Next to Nikko, one of the most interesting cities in Japan is Kyoto, the
+old capital under the shoguns, the seat of several fine palaces and many
+beautiful temples, and the center of large manufacturing works of
+satsuma and cloissone ware, damascene work and art work on silk and
+velvet. Kyoto may be reached by a short ride from Kobe, but from Tokio
+it is an all-day trip of twelve hours by express train. This ride, which
+would be comfortable in well appointed cars, is made tedious by the
+Japanese preference for cars with seats arranged along the side, like
+the new American pay-as-you-enter street cars. For a short ride the side
+seat may be endured, but for hours of travel (especially when one is a
+tourist and wishes to see the scenery on both sides of the road) the
+cars are extremely tiresome.
+
+By selecting the express train and buying first-class tickets it was
+hoped to avoid any crowd but, unfortunately, the day chosen saw many
+other tourists on their way across Japan. The result was that the
+first-class car was packed and many who had paid first-class fares were
+forced to ride in the second-class cars. In my car one side was occupied
+almost wholly by Japanese. Two were in American dress, one was an army
+officer in uniform, another a clerk with many packages, and the
+remaining two were an old couple, richly dressed. The Japanese, in
+traveling first-class, generally brings a rug or fur, which he spreads
+over the seat. On this he sits with his feet drawn up under him in the
+national style. Smoking is not prohibited even in the first-class cars,
+so that the American ladies in the cars had to endure the smell of
+various kinds of Japanese tobacco, in addition to the heat, which was
+rendered more disagreeable by the frequent closing of the windows as the
+train dashed through many tunnels. The old couple carried lunch in
+several hampers and they indulged in a very elaborate luncheon, helped
+out by tea purchased in little pots from a dealer at a station. The army
+officer bought one of the small wooden lunch boxes sold along all
+Japanese railways, which contain boiled rice, fried fish and some boiled
+sweet potatoes. This, with a pot of tea, made a good lunch. The Japanese
+in European costume patronized the dining-car, where an excellent lunch
+was served for one yen, or fifty cents in American money.
+
+The scenery along the line of the railway varied. The road skirts the
+coast for many miles, then cuts across several mountain ranges to
+Nagoya, then along the shores of Owari bay (an arm of the ocean), thence
+across the country to the lower end of Lake Biwa, near which Kyoto is
+situated. In the old days this journey consumed twelve days, and the
+road twice every year furnished a picturesque procession of the retinues
+of great nobles or daimiyos traveling from Kyoto to Tokio to present
+their respects to the shogun. The road was skirted by great cryptomeria,
+and avenues of these fine trees may still be seen near Nikko.
+
+Kyoto was a great city in medieval days, when it was the residence of
+the Mikado. From 793 until 1868, when the court removed to Tokio, Kyoto
+remained the capital. Its importance, however, began to decline with
+the founding of Yedo, or Tokio, in 1590, and to-day many miles of its
+former streets are devoted to the growing of rice. In this way several
+of the finest temples, which were once in the heart of the old city, are
+now relegated to the suburbs. Besides the Mikado's palace and Nijo
+castle, which may be visited only by special permit, Kyoto boasts of an
+unusual number of richly decorated temples, among which the most
+noteworthy are the Shinto temple of Inari; the temple of the one
+thousand images of Kwannon, the Deity of Mercy; the great Buddhist
+temple of Nishi-Honguanji, celebrated for its art work in paintings and
+decorated woods; the great bronze Buddha, fifty-eight feet high; the big
+bell near by, nearly fourteen feet high, and the other in the Cheon-in
+temple here--these being two of the four largest bells in all Japan. To
+describe the treasures in art and decoration, in gold and lacquer, in
+these palaces, would be tiresome. Unless one is a student of Japanese
+art the visiting of temples soon becomes a great bore, for one temple or
+one palace is a repetition of others already seen, with merely minor
+differences in architecture and decoration, which appeal only to the
+specialist.
+
+Kyoto, however, is of great interest for its many art shops--since
+applied art, as seen in satsuma and cloissone ware and in damascene,
+have almost reached the level of pure art. A visit to one of the satsuma
+factories is an interesting experience, as it shows how little the art
+of Japan has been influenced by the foreigner. Here one sees the potter
+at his wheel, precisely as in the days of the Bible. He does not avail
+himself of electric power but whirls his wheel by hand and foot, exactly
+as in the time of Christ. Passing from the pottery to the art rooms, one
+finds a number of Japanese men and girls painting elaborate designs on
+bowls and vases and other articles. These artists grind and mix their
+own oil colors, which they proceed to lay on slowly upon the article
+they are decorating. The patience of these artists is indescribable.
+Infinite pains is taken with a single flower or tree or figure of man or
+bird. One vase exhibited here is covered with butterflies which range
+from natural size down to figures so small that they can be discerned
+only under a magnifying glass. Yet, this vase, which represents such an
+enormous outlay of labor and time, is sold at thirty dollars in American
+money.
+
+At the damascene works both men and women are also employed, although
+the finest work is done by the men. The art consists in beating into
+bronze small particles of gold leaf until they have become an actual
+part of the baser metal. This gold is arranged in a great variety of
+design and, after being beaten in, the article is subjected to powerful
+heat, which oxidizes the metal and thus prevents any change due to the
+weather. At this Kyoto factory were turned out the most artistic
+jewelry, boxes, cigarette cases and a great variety of small articles,
+many of which sold at absurdly low prices, considering the amount of
+labor and time expended on them.
+
+Kyoto will be found one of the best cities in Japan for the purchase of
+the art work just described, as well as embroidery, silks and other
+stuffs. In many of these shops the work is done on the premises and
+hence the prices are cheaper than in any other city except Yokohama. It
+is worth while to visit the shops that exhibit bronze work, silks,
+velvets and carvings in ivory and wood, as well as curios of many kinds.
+Most of these shopkeepers demand more than they expect to receive, but
+in a few shops the goods are plainly marked and no reduction in price
+can be secured. At Kyoto the tourist will find many traces of primitive
+Japanese life, especially in the unfrequented streets and in the
+suburbs. Here in the bed of the river, a portion of which was being
+walled up for a canal, were employed a dozen women digging up gravel and
+carrying it in baskets to carts near by. They had their skirts tied up
+and they were working in mud and water which reached to their knees. It
+was not a pleasant spectacle, but it excited no comment in this country,
+where women labor in the rice fields by the side of men.
+
+A short ride from Kyoto brings the visitor to Nara, the seat of the
+oldest temples in Japan, and famous for the tame deer in the park. A
+long avenue of stone lanterns leads to the principal temples, in an
+ancient cedar grove. The main temple gives an impression of great age by
+its heavy thatched roof.
+
+Next looms up the gigantic wooden structure, which houses Daibutsa, the
+great bronze image of Buddha. This statue, which dates back to the
+eighth century, is fifty-three and one-quarter feet high; the face is
+sixteen feet long and nine and one-quarter feet wide. The god is in a
+sitting position, with the legs crossed. The head, which is darker than
+the remainder of the image, replaced in the sixteenth century the
+original head destroyed by fire. The expression of this Buddha is not
+benignant, and the image is impressive only because of its size. It has
+two images eighteen feet in height on either hand, but these seemed
+dwarfed by the huge central figure.
+
+The park at Nara is very interesting, because of the tame deer which
+have no fear of the stranger in European dress, but will eat cakes from
+his hand. One of the sources of revenue is to sell these cakes to the
+tourist.
+
+A visit was paid to an old temple at Horyuji, about eight miles from
+Nara, which is famous as the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. It
+contains a valuable collection of ancient Japanese works of art. The
+rickshaw ride to this place is of great interest, as the road passes
+through a rich farming country and two small towns which seem to have
+been little affected by European influence. In the fertile valley below
+Nara rice is grown on an extensive scale, these paddy fields being
+veritable swamps which can be crossed only by high paths running through
+them, at distances of thirty or forty feet. Here also may be seen the
+curious method of trellising orchards of pear trees with bamboo poles.
+The trellis supports the upper branches and this prevents them from
+breaking down under the weight of fruit, while it also makes easy the
+picking of fruit. Agriculture at its best is seen in this fertile
+Japanese valley. One peculiarity of this country, as of other parts of
+rural Japan, is that one sees none of the scattered farmhouses which dot
+every American farming section. Instead of building on his own land the
+farmer lives in a village to which he returns at night after his day's
+work.
+
+
+KOBE, OSAKA, THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI
+
+Kobe is regarded as a base for the tourist who wishes to make short
+excursions to Kyoto, Osaka and other cities. It was established as a
+foreign settlement in 1868, and has grown so remarkably during the last
+ten years that now it exceeds in imports and exports any other city in
+Japan. Kobe is one of the most attractive cities in the empire, being
+built on a pretty harbor, with the land rising like an amphitheater.
+Scores of handsome residences are scattered over the foothills near the
+sea. Those on the lower side of the streets that run parallel to the
+harbor have gardens walled up on the rear, while the houses on the upper
+side of the streets have massive retaining walls. These give opportunity
+for many ornamental gateways.
+
+Kobe has many large government schools, but the institutions which I
+found of greatest interest were Kobe College for Women, conducted by
+Miss Searle, and the Glory Kindergarten, under the management of Miss
+Howe. Kobe College, which was founded over thirty years ago, is
+maintained by the Women's Board of Missions of Chicago. It has two
+hundred and twenty-five pupils, of whom all except about fifty are
+lodged and boarded on the premises. I heard several of the classes
+reciting in English. The primary class in English read simple sentences
+from a blackboard and answered questions put by the teacher. A few
+spoke good English, but the great majority failed to open their mouths,
+and the result was the indistinct enunciation that is so trying to
+understand. Another class was reading _Hamlet_, but the pupils made sad
+work of Shakespeare's verse. The Japanese reading of English is always
+monotonous, because their own language admits of no emphasis; so their
+use of English is no more strange than our attempts at Japanese, in
+which we employ emphasis that excites the ridicule of the Mikado's
+subjects.
+
+Not far from this college is the kintergarten, which Miss Howe has
+carried on for twenty-four years. She takes little tots of three or four
+years of age and trains them in Froebel's methods. So successful has she
+been in her work among these children of the best Japanese families of
+Kobe that she has a large waiting list. She has also trained many
+Japanese girls in kintergarten work. All the children at this school
+looked unusually bright, as they are drawn from the educated classes. It
+sounded very strange to hear American and English lullabies being
+chanted by these tots in the unfamiliar Japanese words.
+
+Osaka, the chief manufacturing city of Japan, is only about
+three-quarters of an hour's ride from Kobe. It spreads over nine miles
+square and lies on both sides of the Yodogawa river. The most
+interesting thing in Osaka is the castle built by Hideyoshi, the
+Napoleon of Japan, in 1583. The strong wall was once surrounded by a
+deep moat and an outer wall, which made it practically impregnable. What
+will surprise anyone is the massive character of the inner walls which
+remain. Here are blocks of solid granite, many of them measuring forty
+feet in length by ten feet in height. It must have required a small army
+of men to place these stones in position, but so well was this work
+done (without the aid of any mortar) that the stones have remained in
+place during all these years. From the summit of the upper wall a superb
+view may be gained of the surrounding country.
+
+From Kobe the tourist makes the trip through the Inland Sea by steamer.
+Its length is about two hundred and forty miles and its greatest width
+is forty miles. The trip through this sea, which in some places narrows
+to a few hundred feet, is deeply interesting. The hills remind a
+Californian strongly of the Marin hills opposite San Francisco, but here
+they are terraced nearly to their summits and are green with rice and
+other crops. Many of the hills are covered with a growth of small cedar
+trees, and these trees lend rare beauty to the various points of land
+that project into the sea. At two places in the sea the steamer seems as
+though she would surely go on the rocks in the narrow channel, but the
+pilot swings her almost within her own length and she turns again into a
+wider arm of the sea. In these narrow channels the tide runs like a mill
+race, and without a pilot (who knows every current) any vessel would be
+in extreme danger. The steamer leaves Kobe about ten o'clock at night
+and reaches Nagasaki, the most western of Japanese cities, about seven
+o'clock the following morning.
+
+Nagasaki in some ways reminds one of Kobe, but the hills are steeper and
+the most striking feature of the town is the massive stone walls that
+support the streets winding around the hills, and the elaborate paving
+of many of these side-hill streets with great blocks of granite. The
+rainfall is heavy at Nagasaki, so we find here a good system of gutters
+to carry off the water. The harbor is pretty and on the opposite shore
+are large engine works, three large docks and a big ship-building
+plant, all belonging to the Mitsu Bishi Company. Here some five thousand
+workmen are constantly employed.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+             The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha
+  at Hyogo, Near Kobe. The Impressive Figure is Forty-eight
+    Feet High and Eighty-five Feet Round the Waist. It is
+         Not so Fine as the Daibutsu at Kamakura But
+                   Surpasses That at Nara]
+
+One of the great industries of Nagasaki is the coaling of Japanese and
+foreign steamships. A very fair kind of steam coal is sold here at three
+dollars a ton, which is less by one dollar and one-half than a poorer
+grade of coal can be bought for in Seattle; hence the steamer Minnesota
+coaled here. The coaling of this huge ship proved to be one of the most
+picturesque sights of her voyage. Early on the morning of her arrival
+lighters containing about a railway carload of coal began to arrive.
+These were arranged in regular rows on both sides of the ship. Then came
+out in big sampans an army of Japanese numbering two thousand in all.
+The leaders arranged ladders against the sides of the ship, and up these
+swarmed this army of workers, three-quarters of whom were young girls
+between fourteen and eighteen years old. They were dressed in all
+colors, but most of them wore a native bonnet tied about the ears. They
+formed in line on the stairs and then the coal was passed along from
+hand to hand until it reached the bunkers. These baskets held a little
+over a peck of coal, and the rapidity with which they moved along this
+living line was startling.
+
+Every few minutes the line was given a breathing space, but the work
+went on with a deadly regularity that made the observer tired to watch
+it. Occasionally one of the young girls would flag in her work and,
+after she dropped a few basketfuls, she would be relieved and put at the
+lighter work of throwing the empty baskets back into the lighters. Most
+of these girls, however, remained ten hours at this laborious work, and
+a few worked through from seven o'clock in the morning until nearly
+midnight, when the last basket of coal was put on board. At work like
+this no such force of Europeans would have shown the same self-control
+and constant courtesy which these Japanese exhibited. Wranglings would
+have been inevitable, and the strong workers would have shown little
+regard for their weaker companions.
+
+Another feature of this Japanese work was the elimination of any strain
+or overexertion. If a girl failed to catch a basket as it whirled along
+the line she dropped it instantly. Never did I see anyone reach over or
+strain to do her work.
+
+The rest for lunch occupied only about fifteen minutes, the begrimed
+workers sitting down on the steps of the ladders and eating their simple
+food with keen relish. At night when strong electric lights cast their
+glare over these constantly moving lines of figures the effect was
+almost grotesque, reminding one of Gustave Dor�'s terrible pictures of
+the lost souls in torment, or of the scramble to escape when the deluge
+came. The skill that comes of long practice marked the movements of all
+these workers, and it was rare that any basket was dropped by an awkward
+or tired coal-passer.
+
+In seventeen hours four thousand five hundred tons of coal were loaded
+on the steamer. About fifteen hundred people were working on the various
+ladders, while another five hundred were employed in trimming the coal
+in the hold and in managing the various boats. The result was an exhibit
+of what can be done by primitive methods when perfect co-operation is
+secured.
+
+Nagasaki itself has little that will interest the tourist but a ride or
+walk to Mogi, on an arm of the ocean, five miles away, may be taken with
+profit. The road passes over a high divide and, as it runs through a
+farming country, one is able to see here (more perfectly than in any
+other part of Japan) how carefully every acre of tillable land is
+cultivated. On both sides of this road from Nagasaki to the fishing
+village of Mogi were fields enclosed by permanent walls of stone, such
+as would be built in America only to sustain a house. In many cases the
+ground protected by this wall was not over half an acre in extent, and
+in some cases the fields were of smaller size. Tier after tier of these
+walls extended up the sides of the steep hills. The effect at a little
+distance was startling, as the whole landscape seemed artificial. The
+result of this series of walls was to make a succession of little mesas
+or benches such as may be seen in southern California.
+
+
+DEVELOPMENT OF THE JAPANESE SENSE OF BEAUTY
+
+After a trip through Japan the question that confronts the observant
+tourist is: What has preserved the fine artistic sense of the Japanese
+people of all classes, in the face of the materialist influences that
+have come into their life with the introduction of Western methods of
+thought and of business? The most careless traveler has it thrust upon
+him that here is a people artistic to the tips of their fingers, and
+with childlike power of idealization, although they have been forced to
+engage in the fierce warfare of modern business competition. What is it
+that has kept them unspotted from the world of business? What secret
+source of spiritual force have they been able to draw upon to keep fresh
+and dewy this eager, artistic sense that must be developed with so much
+labor among any Western people?
+
+The answer to these questions is found, by several shrewd observers, in
+the Japanese devotion to their gardens. Every Japanese, no matter how
+small and poor his house, has a garden to which he may retire and
+"invite his soul." These Japanese gardens are unique and are found in no
+other land. China has the nearest approach to them, but the poor Chinese
+never dreams of spending time and money in the development of a garden,
+such as the Japanese in similar circumstances regards as a necessity.
+And these Japanese gardens are always made to conform to the house and
+its architecture. The two never fail to fit and harmonize. A poor man
+may have only a square of ground no larger than a few feet, but he will
+so arrange it as to give it an appearance of spaciousness, while the
+more elaborate gardens are laid out so as to give the impression of
+unlimited extent. The end of the garden appears to melt into the
+horizon, and the owner has a background that extends for miles into the
+country. By the artistic use of stones and dwarf plants, a few square
+feet of ground are made to give the effect of liberal space and, with
+bridges, moss-covered stones, ponds, gold fish and other features, a
+perfect illusion of the country may be produced.
+
+Into this garden the master of the house retires after the work of the
+day. There he takes none of his business or professional cares. He gives
+himself wholly to the contemplation of Nature. He becomes for the time
+as a little child, and his soul is pleased with childish things. For him
+this garden, with its pretty outlook on a larger world, serves as the
+boundary of the universe. Here he may dream of the legends of the
+Samurai, before Japan fell under the evil influence of the new God of
+Gain. Here he may indulge in the day-dreams that have always been a part
+of the national consciousness. Here, in fine, he may get closer to the
+real heart of Nature than any Occidental can ever hope to reach.
+
+It is this capacity to get close to Nature that the Japanese possess
+beyond any other Oriental people--and this capacity is not limited to
+those of means or leisure or education. The poor man, who has a daily
+struggle to get enough rice to satisfy his moderate wants, is as open to
+these influences as the rich man who is not worried by any material
+wants. There is no distinction of classes in this universal worship of
+beauty--this passion for all that is lovely in nature. It was not my
+good fortune to be in Japan at the time of the cherry-blossom
+festival--but these f�tes merely serve to bring out this national
+passion for beauty and color, which finds expression not only in the
+gardens throughout the empire but in painting, drawing and in working on
+silks and other fabrics. The same instinctive art sense is seen in the
+work of the cabinet-maker and even in the designs of gateways and the
+doors of houses. The eye and the hand of the common worker in wood and
+metal is as sure as the hand of the great artist. Such is the influence
+of this constant study of beauty in nature and art.
+
+When you watch a busy Japanese artisan you get a good idea of the spirit
+that animates his work. He regards himself as an artist, and he shows
+the same sureness of hand and the same sense of form and color as the
+designer in colors or the painter of portraits or landscapes. All the
+beautiful gateways or torii, as they are called, are works of art. They
+have one stereotyped form, but the artists embellish these in many ways
+and the result is that every entrance to a large estate or a public
+ground is pleasing to the eye. As these gateways are generally lacquered
+in black or red or gold, they add much to the beauty and color of each
+scene. The ornamental lattice over nearly every door also adds
+enormously to the effectiveness of even a simple interior.
+
+Watch a worker on cloissone enamel and you will be amazed at the
+rapidity and the accuracy with which he paints designs on this beautiful
+ware. Without any pattern he proceeds to sketch with his brush an
+intricate design of flowers, birds or insects, and he develops this with
+an unerring touch that is little short of marvelous, when one considers
+that he has never had any regular training in drawing but has grown up
+in the shop and has gained all his skill from watching and imitating the
+work of his master on the bench at his side. One day in Kyoto I watched
+a mere boy gradually develop a beautiful design of several hundred
+butterflies gradually becoming smaller and smaller until they vanished
+at the top of the vase. What he proposed to make of this was shown in a
+finished design that was exquisite in the gradation of form and color.
+The same skill of hand and eye was seen in the shops of Kyoto where
+damascene ware is made. Gold and silver is hammered into steel and other
+metals, so that the intricate designs actually seem to become a part of
+the metal. In carving in wood the Japanese excel, and in such places as
+Nikko and Nara the tourist may pick up the most elaborate carvings at
+absurdly low prices.
+
+
+CONCLUSIONS ON JAPANESE LIFE AND CHARACTER
+
+In summing up one's observations of Japanese life and character, after a
+brief trip across the empire, it is necessary to exercise much care and
+not to take the accidental for the ordinary incidents of life.
+Generalizations from such observations on a hurried journey are
+especially deadly. To guard against such error I talked with many
+people, and the conclusions given here are drawn from the radically
+different views of missionaries, merchants, steamship agents, bankers
+and others. Generous allowance must be made for the prejudices of each
+class, but even then the forming of any conclusions is difficult. This
+is due largely to the fact that the Japanese a half-century ago were
+medi�val in life and thought, and that the remarkable advances which
+they have made in material and intellectual affairs have been crowded
+into a little more than the life of two generations.
+
+The most common charge made against the Japanese as a race is that their
+standard of commercial morality is low as compared with that of the
+Chinese. The favorite instance, which is generally cited by those who do
+not like the Japanese, is that all the big banks in Japan employ Chinese
+shroffs or cashiers, who handle all the money, as Japanese cashiers
+cannot be trusted. This ancient fiction should have died a natural
+death, but it seems as though it bears a charmed life, although its
+untruth has been repeatedly exposed by the best authorities on Japan.
+
+The big foreign banks in all the large Japanese cities do employ Chinese
+shroffs, because these men are most expert in handling foreign money and
+because they usually have a large acquaintance all along the Chinese
+coast among the clients of the banks. The large Japanese banks, on the
+other hand, employ Japanese in all positions of trust and authority, as
+do all the smaller banks throughout the empire. Many of the cashiers of
+these smaller banks understand English, particularly those that have
+dealings with foreigners. At a native bank in Kobe, which was Cook's
+correspondent in that city, I cashed several money orders, and the work
+was done as speedily as it would have been done in any American bank.
+The fittings of the bank were very cheap; the office force was small,
+but the cashier spoke excellent English and he transacted business
+accurately and speedily.
+
+In making any generalizations on the lack of rigid commercial honesty
+among Japanese merchants it may be well for me to quote the opinion of
+an eminent American educator who has spent over forty years in Japan. He
+said, in discussing this subject: "We must always consider the training
+of the Japanese before their country was thrown open to foreign trade.
+For years the nation had been ruled by men of the Samurai or military
+class, with a rigid code of honor, but with a great contempt for trade
+and tradesmen. Naturally business fell into the hands of the lower
+classes who did not share the keen sense of honor so general among their
+rulers. Hence, there grew up lax ideas of commercial morality, which
+were fostered by the carelessness in money matters among the nobility
+and aristocracy. Much of the prevalent Japanese inability to refrain
+from overcharging, or delivering an inferior article to that shown to
+the customer, dates back to these days of feudal life. The years of
+contact with the foreigners have been too few to change the habits of
+centuries. Another thing which must always be considered is the relation
+of master and vassal under feudal life. That relation led to peculiar
+customs. Thus, if an artisan engaged to build a house for his overlord
+he would give a general estimate, but if the cost exceeded the sum he
+named, he expected his master to make up the deficit. This custom has
+been carried over into the new r�gime, so that the Japanese merchant or
+mechanic of to-day, although he may make a formal contract, does not
+expect to be bound by it, or to lose money should the price of raw
+material advance, or should he find that any building operations have
+cost more than his original estimate. In such case the man who orders
+manufactured goods or signs a contract for any building operations seems
+to recognize that equity requires him to pay more than was stipulated in
+the bond. When Japanese deal with Japanese this custom is generally
+observed. It is only the foreigner who expects the Japanese to fulfill
+his contract to the letter, and it is the attempt to enforce such
+contracts which gives the foreign merchant his poor opinion of Japanese
+commercial honesty. In time, when the Japanese have learned that they
+must abide by written contracts, these complaints will be heard no
+longer. The present slipshod methods are due to faulty business customs,
+the outgrowth of the old Samurai contempt for trade in any form."
+
+In dealing with small Japanese merchants in various cities, it was my
+experience that they are as honest as similar dealers in other
+countries. Usually they demanded about one-half more than they expected
+to receive. Then they made reductions and finally a basis of value was
+agreed upon. This chaffering seems to be a part of their system; but the
+merchants and manufacturers who are brought most often into contact with
+Europeans are coming to have a fixed price for all their goods, on which
+they will give from ten to twenty per cent. reduction, according to the
+amount of purchases. One manufacturer in Kyoto who sold his own goods
+would make no reduction, except in the case of some samples that he was
+eager to sell. His goods were all plainly marked and he calmly allowed
+tourists to leave his store rather than make any cut in his prices. The
+pains and care which the Japanese dealer will take to please his
+customer is something which might be imitated with profit by foreign
+dealers.
+
+A question that is very frequently put is, "What has been the influence
+of Christianity upon Japanese life and thought?" This is extremely
+difficult to answer, because even those who are engaged in missionary
+work are not always in accord in their views. One missionary of thirty
+years' experience said: "The most noteworthy feature of religious work
+in Japan is the number of prominent Japanese who have become converts to
+Christianity. The new Premier, who is very familiar with life in the
+United States, may be cited as one of these converts. Such a man in his
+position of power will be able to do much to help the missionaries. The
+usual charge that Japanese embrace Christianity in order to learn
+English without expense falls to the ground before actual personal
+experience. The converts always seemed to me to be as sincere as
+converts in China or Corea, but it must be admitted that the strong
+materialist bent of modern Japanese education and thought is making it
+more difficult to appeal to the present generation."
+
+An educator who has had much experience with Japanese said: "It looks to
+me as though Japan would soon reach a grave crisis in national life.
+Hitherto Buddhism and Shintoism have been the two forces that have
+preserved the religious faith of the people and kept their patriotism at
+white heat. Now the influences in the public schools are all
+antagonistic to any religious belief. The young men and women are
+growing up (both in the public schools and the government colleges) to
+have a contempt for all the old religious beliefs. They cannot accept
+the Shinto creed that the Emperor is the son of God and should be
+worshiped as a deity by all loyal Japanese. They cannot accept the
+doctrines of Buddha, as they see the New Japan giving the lie to these
+doctrines every day in its home and international dealings. Nothing is
+left but atheism, and the experience of the world proves that there is
+nothing more dangerous to a nation than the loss of its religious faith.
+The women of Japan are slower to accept these new materialist views than
+the men, but the general breaking down of the old faith is something
+which no foreign resident of Japan can fail to see. On the other side
+patriotism is kept alive by the pilgrimages of school children to the
+national shrines, but one is confronted with the questions? Will the
+boys and girls of a few years hence regard these shrines with any
+devotion when they know that Buddhism and Shintoism are founded on a
+faith that science declares has no foundation? Will they offer up money
+and homage to wooden images which their cultivated reason tells them are
+no more worthy of worship than the telegraph poles along the lines of
+the railway?'"
+
+The Japanese way of doing things is the exact reverse of the American
+way generally, but if one studies the methods of this Oriental race it
+will be found that their way is frequently most effective. Thus, in
+addressing letters they always put the city first, then the street
+address and finally the number, while they never fail to put the
+writer's name and address on the reverse of the envelope, which saves
+the postoffice employ�s much trouble and practically eliminates the
+dead-letter office.
+
+The Japanese sampan, as well as other boats, is never painted, but it is
+always scrubbed clean. The sampan has a sharp bow and a wide, square
+stern, and navigators say it will live in a sea which would swamp the
+ordinary Whitehall boat of our water-front. The Japanese oar is long and
+looks unwieldy, being spliced together in the middle. It is balanced on
+a short wooden peg on the gunwale and the oarsman works it like a sweep,
+standing up and bending over it at each stroke. The result is a sculling
+motion, which carries the boat forward very rapidly. In no Japanese
+harbor do the big steamships come up to the wharf. They drop anchor in
+the harbor, and they are always surrounded by small sampans, the owners
+of which are eager to take passengers ashore for about twenty-five cents
+each. All cargo is taken aboard by lighters or unloaded in the same way.
+These lighters hold as much as a railroad freight car.
+
+The fishing boats of Japan add much to the picturesqueness of all the
+harbors, as they have sails arranged in narrow strips laced to bamboo
+poles, and they may be drawn up and lowered like the curtains in an
+American shop window. Whether square or triangular, these sails have a
+graceful appearance and they are handled far more easily than ours.
+
+The Japanese carpenter, who draws his plane as well as his saw toward
+himself, appears to work in an awkward and ungainly way, but he does as
+fine work as the American cabinet-maker. The beauty of the interior
+woodwork of even the houses of the poorer classes is a constant marvel
+to the tourist. Nothing is ever painted about the Japanese house, so the
+fineness of the grain of the wood is revealed as well as the exquisite
+polish. A specialty of the Japanese carpenter is lattice-work for the
+windows and grill-work for doors. These add very much to the beauty of
+unpretentious houses.
+
+In conclusion it may be said that Japan offers the lover of the
+beautiful an unlimited opportunity to gratify his �sthetic senses. In
+city or country he cannot fail to find on every hand artistic things
+that appeal powerfully to his sense of beauty. Whether in an ancient
+temple or a new home for a poor village artisan, he will see the results
+of the same instinctive sense of the beautiful and the harmonious. The
+lines are always lines of grace, and the colors are always those which
+blend and gratify the eye.
+
+
+WILL THE JAPANESE RETAIN THEIR GOOD TRAITS?
+
+Any thoughtful visitor to Japan must be impressed with the problems that
+confront Japan to-day, owing to the influence of foreign thought and
+customs. This influence is the more to be dreaded because the Japanese
+are so impressionable and so prone to accept anything which they are
+convinced is superior to their own. They have very little of the Chinese
+passion for what has been made sacred by long usage. They have high
+regard for their ancestors, but very little reverence for their customs
+and opinions. This lack of veneration is shown in striking fashion by
+those Japanese students who come to this country to gain an education.
+These young men are as eager as the ancient Athenians for any new thing,
+and when they return to their old homes each is a center of Occidental
+influence. This is frequently not for the best interests of their
+countrymen, who have not had their own opportunities of observation and
+comparison.
+
+The qualities in which the Japanese excel are the very qualities in
+which so many Americans are deficient. Personal courage and loyalty are
+the traits which Professor Scherer, a distinguished expert, regards as
+the fundamental traits of the Japanese character. That these qualities
+have not been weakened materially was shown in the recent war with
+Russia. In that tremendous struggle was demonstrated the power of a
+small nation, in which everyone--men, women and children--were united
+in a passionate devotion to their country. No similar spectacle was
+ever shown in modern history. The men who went cheerfully to certain
+death before Port Arthur revealed no higher loyalty than the wives at
+home who committed suicide that their husbands might not be called upon
+to choose between personal devotion to their family and absolute
+loyalty to the nation. The foreign correspondents, who were on
+two-hundred-and-three-metre hill before Port Arthur, have told of the
+Japanese soldiers in the ranks who tied ropes to their feet in order
+that their comrades might pull their bodies back into the trenches. All
+those who were drafted to make the assaults on the Russian works in
+that awful series of encounters (which make the charge of the Light
+Brigade at Balaklava seem cheap and theatrical) knew they were going to
+certain death. Yet these foreign observers have left on record that the
+only sentiment among those who remained in the trenches was envy that
+they had not been so fortunate as to be selected to show this supreme
+loyalty to their country. General Nogi, who recently committed suicide
+with his wife on the day of the funeral of the late Emperor, had two
+sons dash to this certain death on the bloodstained hill before Port
+Arthur. As commander, he could have assigned them to less dangerous
+positions, but it probably never entered his head to shield his own
+flesh and blood. And the same loyalty that is shown to country is also
+proved in the relation of servant to master. The story of the
+Forty-seven Ronins is too well known to need repetition, but the
+loyalty of these retainers (who slew the man that caused their lord's
+death, although they knew that this deed called for their immediate end
+by their own hands) impresses one with new force when he stands before
+the tombs of these men in the Japanese capital and sees the profound
+reverence in which they are still held by the people of Japan.
+
+What puzzles the foreign observer is: Will this passionate loyalty of
+servant to master survive the spectacle of the ingratitude and
+self-interest which the Japanese see in the relation of master and
+servant in most Christian countries? The whole tendency of life in other
+countries than his own is against this loyalty, which has been bred in
+his very marrow. How long, without the mainstay of religion, will the
+Japanese cling to this outworn but beautiful relic of his old life? And
+it must be confessed that religion is rapidly losing its hold on the men
+of Japan. Those who have been abroad are apt to return home
+freethinkers, because the spectacle of the practical working of
+Christianity is not conducive to faith among so shrewd a people as the
+Japanese. Even the example of the foreigners in Japan is an influence
+that the missionaries regard as prejudicial to Christianity.
+
+Another trait of the Japanese which will not be improved by contact with
+foreigners, and especially with Americans, is thoroughness. This trait
+is seen on every hand in Japan. Nothing is built in a slovenly way,
+whether for private use or for the government. The artisan never scamps
+his work. He seems to have retained the old mechanic's pride in doing
+everything well which he sets his hand to do. This is seen in the
+carving of many works of art, as well as in the building of the
+ornamental gateways throughout the empire, that stand as monuments to
+the �sthetic sense of the people. Yet the whole influence of foreign
+teaching and example is against this thoroughness that is ingrained in
+the Japanese character. The young people cannot fail to see that it
+does not pay their elders to expend so much time and effort to gain
+perfection, when their foreign rivals secure apparently equal if not
+superior results by quick and careless work. It is upon these Japanese
+children that the future of the empire depends. They are sure to be
+infected by these object lessons in the gospel of selfish and careless
+work, which the labor union leaders in our country have preached until
+it has been accepted by the great mass of mechanics.
+
+Another racial quality of the Japanese, which is likely to suffer from
+contact with foreigners, is his politeness. This is innate and not
+acquired; it does not owe any of its force to selfish considerations.
+The traveler in Japan is amazed to see this politeness among all
+classes, just as he sees the artistic impulse flowering among the
+children of rough toilers in the fields. And again the question arises:
+Will the Japanese retain this attractive trait when they come into more
+intimate contact with the foreigner, who believes in courtesy mainly as
+a business asset rather than as a social virtue?
+
+So, in summing up one's impressions of Japan, there comes this
+inevitable doubt of the permanence of the fine qualities which make the
+Japanese nation to-day so distinct from any other. The Japanese may
+differ from all other races in their power of resisting the corrupting
+influences of foreign association, but it is to be feared that the
+visitor to the Mikado's land fifty years from now may not only find no
+Mikado, but none of the peculiarly gracious qualities in the Japanese
+people which to-day set them apart from all other nations.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE I
+
+    Street Scene, Asakusa
+  Park, Tokyo. This Picture
+      Gives a Good Idea
+     of Japanese Street
+      Dress of Men and
+      Women. The Park
+        Contains a
+       Twelve-Story
+        Tower, Two
+     Hundred and Twenty
+      Feet in Height]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE II
+
+  Entrance Hall and Stairway
+        of Modern Home
+   of a Tokyo Millionaire.
+     Note the Priceless
+        Screens With
+  Cherry-Blossom Decoration,
+  the Bronze Stair Railings
+    and the Inlaid Floor]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE III
+
+   Bronze Lanterns and
+  Sacred Fountain, Shiba
+   Temple, Tokyo. These
+  Temples in Shiba Park
+  Are Among the Marvels
+       of Japanese
+           Art]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE IV
+
+    Sacred Red Bridge at
+   Nikko. Legend Says It
+  Was Built for the Saint
+     Shodo Shonin. No
+   One Crossed It Except
+    the Shoguns and in
+     Modern Times the
+      Mikado. General
+     Grant Was Given a
+    Permit to Cross This
+    Bridge, but Sensibly
+     Refused to Use It]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE V
+
+       Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko.
+  This Picture Gives a Good Idea of the Effectiveness of the
+       Tori or Gate, of Black or Red Lacquer or Natural
+              Wood, Which Stands at the Entrance
+                  to Most Parks and Temples]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VI
+
+      Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko.
+  This Splendid Avenue, Lined with Huge Cedar Trees
+      from One Hundred and Fifty to Two Hundred
+       Feet in Height, Extends for Five Miles
+                from Nikko to Imaichi]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VII
+
+              Great Bronze Torii, Nikko.
+          These Torii or Gates Form the Most
+  Characteristic Feature of Japanese Landscapes. They
+          Are Always of the Same Pattern But
+          Infinite in Variety of Decoration]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VIII
+
+    Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara.
+  A Remarkable Collection of Lanterns Which Line
+    the Avenue Leading to the Temple. In This
+        Park Many Tame Deer Wander, Their
+           Horns Being Cut Once a Year
+                    in October]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE IX
+
+               Religious Procession, Kyoto.
+      This Gives a Good Idea of a Familiar Sight in
+  all Japanese Cities. Many of the Standards Carried in
+          These Processions are Very Beautiful,
+                  With Silk Streamers of
+                       Many Colors]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE X
+
+  Scene on Canal, Kyoto.
+    None of the Houses
+   That Line This Canal
+  Are Elaborate, But All
+  Have Balconies Adorned
+   With Dwarf Trees and
+    Plants in Pots of
+   Many Colors. This Is
+     One of the Most
+  Picturesque Scenes in
+       All Japan]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XI
+
+    Street Scene in Kobe.
+     This View Shows the
+    Low Two-Story Houses,
+      With Overhanging
+   Balconies, the Enormous
+      Gilded Signs and
+     the Absence of All
+    Horses in the Street.
+     This Street Scene Is
+   Typical of All Japanese
+           Cities]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XII
+
+    A Group of Japanese
+     Schoolboys. These
+  Faces, Full of Life and
+   Mischief, Are Typical
+   of Young Japan. About
+  the Only Faces in Japan
+    Free From Lines of
+     Care Are Those of
+   School Children. When
+   Over Sixteen the Face
+  of the Japanese Becomes
+   a Mask Which Conceals
+       All Emotions]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIII
+
+    Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside.
+  These Country People Show Keen Curiosity in
+    Regard to the Foreign Tourist but They
+             Are Always Courteous]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIV
+
+  Scene in Large Private
+    Garden, Kyoto. This
+  Old Capital of Japan Is
+    Noted for Its Many
+  Beautiful Gardens, With
+    Ponds Well Stocked
+     With Goldfish and
+   Crossed by Miniature
+         Bridges]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XV
+
+    Iris Bed at Horikiri,
+      near Tokyo. This
+    Flower Resort is the
+  Scene of Many Pilgrimages
+      in June When the
+     Irises Are in Full
+           Bloom]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVI
+
+            Private Garden, Kamakura.
+    This Gives a Good Idea of the Arrangement
+  of a Japanese Garden. To the Influence of the
+     Garden is Ascribed the Japanese Love of
+        the Beautiful in Nature and Art]
+
+
+
+
+  MANILA,
+  TRANSFORMED BY THE
+  AMERICANS
+
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MANILA AND ITS PICTURESQUE PEOPLE
+
+The bay of Manila is so extensive that the steamer appears to be
+entering a great inland sea. The shores are low-lying and it takes about
+an hour before the steamer nears the city, so that one can make out the
+landmarks. To the right, as one approaches the city, is Cavite, which
+Dewey took on that historic May day in 1898. The spires of many churches
+are the most conspicuous landmarks in Manila, but as the distance
+lessens a huge mass of concrete, the new Manila hotel, looms up near the
+docks. The bay is full of ships and alongside the docks are a number of
+passenger and freight steamers.
+
+Just as we are able to make out these things, our ears catch the strains
+of a fine band of music and we see two launches rapidly nearing the
+ship. In one is a portion of the splendid Constabulary Band, the finest
+in the Orient. In the other launch was the special committee of the
+Manila Merchants' Association. The band played several stirring airs,
+everybody cheered and waved handkerchiefs and for a few minutes it
+looked as though an impromptu Fourth of July celebration had begun. It
+is difficult to describe an American's emotions when he sees the Stars
+and Stripes for the first time in five weeks. The most phlegmatic man on
+the ship danced a war dance, women wept, and when the reception
+committee boarded the ship and met the passengers in the dining saloon
+there was great enthusiasm. Plans were arranged for crowding into the
+two days' stay all the sightseeing and entertainment possible and these
+plans were carried out, giving a fine proof of Manila hospitality.
+
+Manila differs from most of the Oriental cities in the fact that
+American enterprise has constructed great docks and dredged out the
+harbor so that the largest steamers may anchor alongside the docks. In
+Yokohama, Kobe, Hongkong and other ports ships anchor in the bay and
+passengers and freight must be transferred to the shore by launches and
+lighters. Reinforced concrete is now the favorite building material of
+the new Manila. Not only are the piles and docks made of this material,
+but all the new warehouses and business buildings as well as most of the
+American and foreign residences are of concrete. It is substantial,
+clean, cool and enduring, meeting every requirement of this tropical
+climate. The white ant, which is so destructive to the ordinary wooden
+pile, does not attack it.
+
+The Pasig river divides Manila into two sections. On the south side of
+the old walled city are the large districts of Malate, Ermito and Paco.
+On the north side is the principal retail business street, the Escolta
+and the other business thoroughfares lined with small shops, and six
+large native districts. The Escolta is only four blocks long, very
+narrow, with sidewalks barely three feet wide; yet here is done most of
+the foreign retail trade. In a short time a new Escolta will be built in
+the filled district, as it would cost too much to widen the old street.
+As a car line runs through the Escolta, there is a bad congestion of
+traffic at all times except in the early morning hours. The Bridge of
+Spain is one of the impressive sights of Manila. With its massive
+arches of gray stone, it looks as though it would be able to endure for
+many more centuries. One of the oldest structures in the city, it was
+built originally on pontoons, and it was provided with the present
+arches in 1630. Only one earthquake, that of 1863, damaged it. Then two
+of the middle arches gave way, and these were not restored for twelve
+years. The roadway is wide, but it is crowded all day with as
+picturesque a procession as may be seen in any part of the world. The
+carromata, a light, two-wheeled cart, with hooded cover, pulled by a
+native pony, is the favorite conveyance of the foreigners and the better
+class of the Filipinos. The driver sits in front, while two may ride
+very comfortably on the back seat. It is a great improvement on the
+Japanese jinrikisha because one may compare impressions with a
+companion. The country cart is built something like the carromata and
+will accommodate four people. Hundreds of these carts come into Manila
+every day with small stocks of vegetables and fruit for sale at the
+markets. A few victorias may be seen on the bridge, but what causes most
+of the congestion is the carabao cart, hauling the heavy freight. The
+carabao (pronounced carabough, with the accent on the last syllable), is
+the water buffalo of the Philippines, a slow, ungainly beast of burden
+that proves patient and tractable so long as he can enjoy a daily swim.
+If cut off from water the beast becomes irritable, soon gets "loco" and
+is then dangerous, as it will attack men or animals and gore them with
+its sharp horns. The carabao has little hair and its nose bears a strong
+resemblance to that of the hippopotamus. Its harness consists of a
+neckyoke of wood fastened to the thills of the two-wheeled cart. On this
+cart is frequently piled two tons, which the carabao pulls easily.
+
+Another bridge which has historic interest for the American is the San
+Juan bridge. It is reached by the Santa Mesa car line. Here at either
+end were encamped the American and Filipino armed forces, and the
+insurrection was started by a shot at night from the native trenches.
+The bridge was the scene of fierce fighting, which proved disastrous to
+the Filipinos.
+
+Aside from the bridges and the life along the Pasig river, the most
+interesting part of Manila lies within the old walled city. This section
+is known locally as "IntraMuros." It is still surrounded by the massive
+stone wall, which was begun in 1591 but not actually completed until
+1872. The wall was built to protect the city from free-booters, as
+Manila, like old Panama, offered a tempting prize to pirates. Into the
+wall was built old Fort Santiago, which still stands. The wall varies in
+thickness from three to forty feet, and in it were built many chambers
+used as places of confinement and torture. Until six years ago a wide
+moat surrounded the wall, but the stagnant water bred disease and the
+moat was filled with the silt dredged up from the bay. Fort Santiago
+forms the northwest corner of the wall. Its predecessor was a palisade
+of bags, built in 1571, behind which the Spaniards defended themselves
+against the warlike native chiefs. In 1590 the stone fort was begun.
+Within it was the court of the military government. Seven gates were
+used as entrances to the walled city in old Spanish days, the most
+picturesque being the Real gate, bearing the date of 1780, and the Santa
+Lucia gate, with the inscription of 1781. These gates were closed every
+night, and some of the massive machinery used for this purpose may be
+seen lying near by--a reminder of those good old days when the belated
+traveler camped outside.
+
+In the old walled city are some of the famous churches of Manila. The
+oldest is San Augustin, first dedicated in 1571. The present structure
+was built two years later, the first having been completely destroyed by
+fire. The enormously thick walls were laid so well that they have
+withstood the severe earthquakes which proved so destructive to many
+other churches. In this church are buried Legaspi and Salcedo, the
+explorers, who spread Spanish dominion over the Philippines.
+
+The Church of St. Ignatius is famous for the beautifully carved woodwork
+of the pulpit and the interior decorations; that of Santo Domingo is
+celebrated for its finely carved doors. The greatest shrine in the
+Phillippines is the Cathedral, which fronts on Plaza McKinley. This is
+the fifth building erected on the same site, fire having destroyed the
+other four. The architecture is Byzantine, and the interior gives a
+wonderful impression of grace and spaciousness. Some of the old doors
+and iron grill-work of the ancient cathedrals have been retained.
+
+
+AMERICAN WORK IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
+
+It will surprise any American visitor to the Philippine Islands to find
+how much has been accomplished since 1898 to make life better worth
+living for the Filipino as well as for the European or the American.
+Civil government through the Philippine Commission has been in active
+operation for ten years. During this decade what Americans have achieved
+in solving difficult problems of colonial government is matter for
+national pride. The American method in the Philippines looks to giving
+the native the largest measure of self-government of which he is
+capable. It has not satisfied the Filipino, because he imagines that he
+is all ready for self-government, but it has done much to lift him out
+of the dead level of peonage in which the Spaniard kept him and to open
+the doors of opportunity to young Filipinos with ability and energy. I
+talked with many men in various professions and in many kinds of
+business and all agreed that the American system worked wonders in
+advancing the natives of real ability.
+
+Rev. Dr. George W. Wright of Manila, who has charge of a large
+Presbyterian seminary for training young Filipinos for the ministry, and
+who has had much experience in teaching, said: "In the old days only the
+sons of the illustrados, or prominent men of the noble class, had any
+chance to secure an education and this education was given in the
+Catholic private schools. With the advent of the Americans any boy
+possessing the faculty of learning quickly may get a good education,
+provided he will work for it. I know of one case of a boy who did not
+even know who his parents were. He gained a living by blacking shoes and
+selling papers. He came to me for aid in entering a night school. He
+learned more rapidly than anyone I ever knew. Soon he came to me and
+wanted a job that would occupy him half a day so that he could go to
+school the other half of the day. I got him the job and in a few months
+he was not only perfecting himself in English, but reading law. Nothing
+can keep this boy down; in a few years he will be a leader among his
+people. Under the old Spanish system he never would have been permitted
+to rise from the low caste in which fortune first placed him."
+
+[Illustration:
+
+    Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila.
+  This is the Main Entrance to the Old Fort,
+    Built Into the Massive Wall. This Wall
+       Was for Spanish Defense Against
+           Warlike Native Chiefs]
+
+More than a thousand American teachers are scattered over the Philippine
+Islands, and for ten years these men and women have been training the
+young of both sexes. Some have proved incompetent, a few have set a very
+bad example, but the great majority have done work of which any nation
+might be proud. They have not only been teachers of the young, but they
+have been counselors and friends of the parents of their pupils.
+
+The work done in a material way in the Philippines is even more
+remarkable. Of the first importance is the offer of a homestead to every
+citizen from the public lands. So much was paid for the friar lands that
+these are far beyond the reach of anyone of ordinary means, but the
+government has large reserves of public land, which only need
+cultivation to make them valuable. Sanitary conditions have been
+enormously improved both in Manila and throughout the islands. In the
+old days Manila was notorious for many deaths from cholera, bubonic
+plague and smallpox. No sanitary regulations were enforced and the
+absence of any provisions for sewage led to fearful pestilences. Now not
+only has Manila an admirable sewerage system, but the people have been
+taught to observe sanitary regulations, with the result that in the
+suburbs of such a city as Manila the homes of common people reveal much
+better conditions than the homes of similar classes in Japan. The sewage
+of Manila is pumped three times into large sumps before it is finally
+dumped into the bay a mile from the city.
+
+The island military police, known as the Constabulary Guard, has done
+more to improve conditions throughout the islands than any other agency.
+The higher officers are drawn from the United States regular army, but
+the captains and lieutenants are from civil life, and they are mainly
+made up of young college graduates. These men get their positions
+through the civil service and, though some fail to make good, the great
+majority succeed. Their positions demand unusual ability, for they not
+only have charge of companies of native police that resemble the Mexican
+rurales or the Canadian mounted police, but they serve as counselor and
+friend to all the Filipinos in their district. In this way their
+influence is frequently greater than that of the school teachers.
+
+All this work and much more has been accomplished by the insular
+government without calling upon the United States for any material help.
+It does not seem to be generally known that the Philippine Islands are
+now self-supporting, and that the only expense entailed on the general
+government is a slight increase for maintaining regiments assigned to
+the island service and the cost of Corregidor fortifications and other
+harbor defenses. This has been accomplished without excessive taxation.
+Personal property is exempt, while the rate on real estate in Manila is
+only one and one-half per cent. on the assessed valuation, and only
+seven-eights of one per cent. in the provinces. The fiscal system has
+been put on a gold basis, thus removing the old fluctuating silver
+currency which was a great hardship to trade.
+
+
+SCENES IN THE CITY OF MANILA AND SUBURBS
+
+Every visitor to Manila in the old days exhausted his vocabulary in
+praise of the Luneta, the old Spanish city's pleasure ground, which
+overlooked the bay and Corregidor Island. It was an oval drive, with a
+bandstand at each end, inclosing a pretty grass plot. Here, as evening
+came on, all Manila congregated to hear the band play and to meet
+friends. The Manilan does not walk, so the broad drive was filled with
+several rows of carriages passing slowly around the oval. To-day the
+Luneta remains as it was in the old Spanish days, but its chief charm,
+the seaward view, is gone. This is due to the filling in of the harbor
+front, which has left the Luneta a quarter of a mile from the
+water-front. However, a new Luneta has been made below the old one, and
+the broad avenues opened up near by give far more space for carriages
+than before. Every evening except Monday the Constabulary Band plays on
+the Luneta, and the scene is almost as brilliant as in the old days, as
+the American Government officials make it a point to turn out in
+uniform. Nothing can be imagined more perfect than the evenings in
+Manila after the heat of the day. The air is deliciously soft and a
+gentle breeze from the ocean tempers the heat.
+
+The best way to see the native life of Manila is to take a street-car
+ride through the Tondo and Caloocan districts, or a launch ride up the
+Pasig river. On the cars one passes through the heart of the business
+district, the great Tondo market, filled with supplies from the
+surrounding country as well as many small articles of native or foreign
+manufacture. This car line also passes the Maypajo, the largest cockpit
+in the world, where at regular intervals the best fighting cocks are
+pitted against each other and the betting is as spirited as on American
+race tracks in the old days. On the return trip by these cars one passes
+by the San Juan bridge, which marked the opening of the insurrection;
+the old Malacanan Palace, now the residence of Governor-General Forbes,
+and the Paco Cemetery, where several thousand bodies are buried in the
+great circular wall which surrounds the church. These niches in the wall
+are rented for a certain yearly sum, and in the old Spanish days, when
+this rental was not promptly paid by relatives, the corpse was removed
+and thrown with others into a great pit. Recently this ghastly practice
+has been frowned on by the authorities.
+
+The average Manila resident does not pay more than fifty dollars in our
+money for his nipa house. The framework is of bamboo, bound together by
+rattan; the roof timbers are of bamboo, while the sides of the house and
+the thatch are made from the nipa tree. The sides look like mats. The
+windows are of translucent shell, while the door is of nipa or wood.
+These houses are usually about fifteen feet square, with one large room,
+and are raised about six feet from the ground. Under the house is kept
+the live stock. When the family has a horse or cow or carabao the house
+is ten feet from the ground, and these animals are stabled underneath.
+In nearly every house or yard may be found a game cock tied by the leg
+to prevent him from roaming and fighting.
+
+In most of the houses that the cars passed in the big native quarter of
+Tondo, furniture was scanty. Usually the family has a large dresser,
+which is ornamented with cheap pictures, and the walls are frequently
+covered with prints in colors. There is no furniture, as the Filipino's
+favorite position is to squat on his haunches. In many of the poorest
+houses, however, were gramophones, which are paid for in monthly
+installments of a dollar or two. The Filipinos are very fond of music,
+and the cheap gramophones appeal to them strongly. Nearly every Filipino
+plays some instrument by ear, and many boys from the country are expert
+players on the guitar or mandolin. On large plantations the hands are
+fond of forming bands and orchestras, and often their playing would do
+credit to professional musicians. The Constabulary Band, recognized as
+the finest in the Orient, has been drilled by an American negro named
+Loring.
+
+In the Santa Mesa district are the houses of wealthy Filipinos. These
+are usually of two stories, with the upper story projecting far over the
+lower, and with many ornamental dormer windows, with casement sashes of
+small pieces of translucent shell. In Manila the window is provided to
+keep out the midday heat and glare of the sun. At other times the
+windows are slid into the walls, and thus nearly the whole side of the
+house is open to the cool night air. Many of these houses are finished
+in the finest hardwoods, and not a few have polished mahogany floors.
+Bamboo and rattan furniture may be seen in some of these houses, while
+in others are dressers and wardrobes in the rich native woods. These
+houses are embowered in trees, among which the magnolia, acacia and palm
+are the favorites, with banana and pomelo trees heavy with fruit.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVII
+
+   A Glimpse of the Escolta,
+     Manila. The Escolta,
+       Only Four Blocks
+  In Length, Is the Business
+     Street in Manila.
+   Clarke's, the Restaurant
+     and Tea-House in the
+      Foreground, Is the
+      Favorite American
+       Headquarters in
+           Manila]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVIII
+
+  Old Church and Bridge
+    at Pasig. Built of
+    Massive Stone and
+   Overgrown With Moss,
+     This Bridge and
+    Church Seems Older
+  Than the Ancient Wall
+       of Manila]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIX
+
+      The Binondo Canal, Which Intersects a
+  Crowded District of Manila. The Picture Gives
+      a Good Idea of the Cascoes or Native
+                   Cargo Boats]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XX
+
+     On the Malecon Drive, Manila.
+  One of the Picturesque Roads, Lined
+       With Feathery Palms, That
+          Lead to the Luneta]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXI
+
+           View on a Manila Canal.
+  This Gives a Good Idea of the Native Nipa
+     Huts Along the Banks of the Canal,
+          and a Bamboo Foot-bridge]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXII
+
+        A Filipino Peasant Girl on the
+  Way to Market. She Wears the Native Costume
+         With the Enormous Bamboo Hat.
+           The Water Jar is Like the
+             Spanish-American Olla]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIII
+
+         The Carabao Cart in the Philippines.
+  The Carabao or Water Buffalo is the Filipinos' Chief
+     Beast of Burden. The Cart is Crude and Heavy,
+          With a Home-made Yoke. The Buffalo
+            is also Used for Ploughing and
+                    Other Farm Work]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIV
+
+     The Nipa Hut of the
+   Filipino. This Style of
+     House, With Bamboo
+     Frame and Thatched
+   Sides and Roof of Nipa
+     Grass, Costs About
+  Fifty Mex. or Twenty-Five
+      Dollars in United
+    States Gold Coin. It
+      Is Usually About
+     Six Feet From the
+           Ground]
+
+
+
+
+  HONGKONG,
+  CANTON, SINGAPORE
+  AND RANGOON
+
+
+HONGKONG, THE GREATEST BRITISH PORT IN THE ORIENT
+
+The entrance to the harbor of Hongkong is one of the most impressive in
+the world. The steamer runs along by the mainland for several miles.
+Then a great island is descried, covered with smelting works, huge
+dockyards, great warehouses and other evidences of commercial activity.
+This is the lower end of the island of Victoria, on which the city of
+Hongkong has been built. The island was ceded by China to Great Britain
+in 1842, after the conclusion of the opium war. It is separated from the
+mainland of China by an arm of the sea, varying from one mile to five
+miles in width. This forms the harbor of Hongkong, one of the most
+spacious and picturesque in the world. It is crowded with steamers,
+ferryboats, Chinese junks with queer-shaped sails of yellow matting,
+sampans, trim steam launches and various other craft. As the vessel
+passes beyond the smelting works and the dry docks it rounds a point and
+the beauty of Hongkong is revealed.
+
+The city is built at the foot of a steep hill nearly two thousand feet
+in height. Along the crescent harbor front are ranged massive business
+buildings with colonaded fronts and rows of windows. Behind the business
+section the hills rise so abruptly that many of the streets are seen to
+be merely rows of granite stairs. Still farther back are the homes of
+Hongkong residents, beautiful stone or brick structures, which look out
+upon the busy harbor. With a glass one can make out the cable railroad
+which climbs straight up the mountainside for over one thousand feet and
+then turns sharply to the right until the station is reached, about
+thirteen hundred feet above sea level.
+
+Hongkong differs radically from Yokohama, Tokio, Kobe, Nagasaki or
+Manila, because of the blocks of solid, granite-faced buildings that
+line its water front, each with its rows of Venetian windows, recessed
+in balconies. This is the prevailing architecture for hotels, business
+buildings and residences, while dignity is lent to every structure by
+the enormous height between stories, the average being from fifteen to
+eighteen feet. This impression of loftiness is increased by the use of
+the French window, which extends from the floor almost to the ceiling,
+all the windows being provided with large transoms.
+
+The feature of Hongkong which impresses the stranger the most vividly is
+the great mixture of races in the streets. Here for the first time one
+finds the sedan chair, with two or four bearers. It is used largely in
+Hongkong for climbing the steep streets which are impossible for the
+jinrikisha. The bearers are low-class coolies from the country, whose
+rough gait makes riding in a chair the nearest approach to horseback
+exercise. The jinrikisha is also largely in evidence, but the bearers
+are a great contrast in their rapacious manners to the courteous and
+smiling Japanese in all the cities of the Mikado's land.
+
+Queen's road, the main business street of Hongkong, furnishes an
+extraordinary spectacle at any hour of the day. The roadway is lined
+with shops, while the sidewalks, covered by the verandas of the second
+stories of the buildings, form a virtual arcade, protected from the
+fierce rays of the sun. These shops are mainly designed to catch the eye
+of the foreigner, and they are filled with a remarkable collection of
+silks, linens, ivories, carvings and other articles that appeal to the
+American because of the skilled labor that has been expended upon them.
+Carvings and embroidery that represent the work of months are sold at
+such low prices as to make one marvel how anyone can afford to produce
+them even in this land of cheap living.
+
+The crowd that streams past these shops is even more curious than the
+goods offered for sale. Here East and West meet in daily association.
+The Englishman is easily recognized by his air of proprietorship,
+although his usual high color is somewhat reduced by the climate. He has
+stamped his personality on Hongkong and he has builded here for
+generations to come. The German is liberally represented, and old
+Hongkong residents bewail the fact that every year sees a larger number
+of Emperor William's subjects intent on wresting trade from the British.
+Frenchmen and other Europeans pass along this Queen's road, and the
+American tourist is in evidence, intent on seeing all the sights as well
+as securing the best bargains from the shopkeepers. All these foreigners
+have modified their garb to suit the climate. They wear suits of white
+linen or pongee with soft shirts, and the solar topi, or pith helmet,
+which is a necessity in summer and a great comfort at other seasons. The
+helmet keeps the head cool and shelters the nape of the neck, which
+cannot be exposed safely to the sun's rays. Instead of giving health as
+the California sun does, this Hongkong sunshine brings heat apoplexy and
+fever. All the Orient is represented by interesting types. Here are rich
+Chinese merchants going by in private chairs, with bearers in handsome
+silk livery; Parsees from Bombay, with skins almost as black as those of
+the American negro; natives of other parts of India in their
+characteristic dress and their varying turbans; Sikh policemen, tall,
+powerful men, who have a lordly walk and who beat and kick the Chinese
+chair coolies and rickshaw men when they prove too insistent or
+rapacious; Chinese of all classes, from the prosperous merchant to the
+wretched coolie whose prominent ribs show how near he lives to actual
+starvation in this overcrowded land; workmen of all kinds, many bearing
+their tools, and swarms of peddlers and vendors of food, crying their
+wares, with scores of children, many of whom lead blind beggars.
+Everywhere is the noise of many people shouting lustily, the cries of
+chair coolies warning the passersby to clear the way for their
+illustrious patrons.
+
+The Chinese seem unable to do anything without an enormous expenditure
+of talk and noise. Ordinary bargaining looks like the beginning of a
+fierce fight. Any trifling accident attracts a great crowd, which
+becomes excited at the slightest provocation. It is easy to see from an
+ordinary walk in this Hongkong street how panic or rage may convert the
+stolid Chinese into a deadly maniac, who will stop at no outburst of
+violence, no atrocity, that will serve to wreak his hatred of the
+foreigner.
+
+Although Hongkong has been Europeanized in its main streets, there are
+quarters of the city only a few blocks away from the big hotels and
+banks which give one glimpses of genuine native life. Some of these
+streets are reached by scores of granite steps that climb the steep
+mountainside. These streets are not over twelve or fifteen feet wide,
+and the shops are mere holes in the wall, with a frontage of eight or
+ten feet. Yet many of these dingy shops contain thousands of dollars'
+worth of decorated silks and linens, artistic carvings, laces, curios
+and many other articles of Chinese manufacture. Unlike the Japanese, who
+will follow the tourist to the sidewalk and urge him to buy, these
+Chinese storekeepers show no eagerness to make sales. They must be urged
+to display their fine goods, and they cannot be hurried. The best time
+to see these native streets is at night. Take a chair if the climate
+overpowers you, but walk if you can. Then a night stroll through this
+teeming quarter will always remain in the memory. Every one is working
+hard, as in Japan, for the Chinese workday seems endless. All kinds of
+manufacture are being carried on here in these narrow little shops; the
+workers are generally stripped to the waist, wearing only loose short
+trousers of cheap blue or brown cotton, the lamplight gleaming on their
+sweating bodies. Here are goldsmiths beating out the jewelry for which
+Hongkong is famous; next are scores of shops in all of which shoes are
+being made; then follow workers in willow-ware and rattan, makers of
+hats, furniture and hundreds of other articles. In every block is an
+eating-house, with rows of natives squatted on benches, and with large
+kettles full of evil-smelling messes. The crowds in the streets vie with
+the crowds in the stores in the noise that they make; the air reeks with
+the odors of sweating men, the smell of unsavory food, the stench of
+open gutters. This panorama of naked bodies, of wild-eyed yellow faces
+drawn with fatigue and heat passes before ones' eyes for an hour. Then
+the senses begin to reel and it is time to leave this scene of Oriental
+life that is far lower and more repulsive than the most crowded streets
+in the terrible East Side tenement quarter of New York on a midsummer
+night.
+
+Hongkong, both in the European and native quarters, is built to endure
+for centuries. Most of the houses are of granite or plastered brick. The
+streets are paved with granite slabs. Even the private residences have
+massive walls and heavy roofs of red or black tile; the gardens are
+screened from the street by high walls, with broken glass worked into
+the mortar that forms the coping and with tall iron entrance gates.
+These residences dot the side hill above the town. They are built upon
+terraces, which include the family tennis court. The roads wind around
+the mountainside, many of them quarried out of solid rock. All the
+building material of these houses had to be carried up the steep
+mountainside by coolies and, until the cable railway was finished, the
+dwellers were borne to their homes at night by chair coolies.
+
+This cable railway carries one nearly to the top of the peak back of
+Hongkong, and from the station a short walk brings one to the summit,
+where a wireless station is used to flash arrivals of vessels to the
+city below. The view from this summit, and from the splendid winding
+road which leads to the Peak Hospital, not far away, is one of the
+finest in the world. The harbor, dotted with many ships and small boats,
+the indented coast for a score of miles, the bare and forbidding Chinese
+territory across the bay, the big city at the foot of the hill; all
+these are spread out below like a great panorama.
+
+The British are firmly entrenched at Hongkong. Not only have they actual
+ownership of Victoria Island, on which Hongkong is built, but they have
+a perpetual lease of a strip of the mainland across from the island,
+extending back for over one hundred miles. The native city across the
+bay is Kowloon, and is reached by a short ride on the new railroad
+which will eventually connect Hankow with Paris. On the barren shore,
+about a mile from Hongkong, has been founded the European settlement of
+Kowloon City. It comprises a row of large warehouses, or godowns, a big
+naval victualling station and coaling depot, large barracks for two
+regiments of Indian infantry and several companies of Indian artillery,
+with many fine quarters for European officers. The city in recent years
+has become a favorite residence place for Hongkong business men, as it
+is reached in a few minutes by a good ferry. Near by are the great naval
+docks at Hunghom, extensive cement works and the deepest railway cut in
+the world, the material being used to fill in the bay of Hunghom.
+
+
+A VISIT TO CANTON IN DAYS OF WILD PANIC
+
+Every traveler who has seen the Orient will tell you not to miss Canton,
+the greatest business center of China, the most remarkable city of the
+empire, and among the most interesting cities of the world. It is only a
+little over eighty miles from Hongkong, and if one wishes to save time
+it may be reached by a night boat.
+
+While in Manila I heard very disturbing reports of rioting in Canton and
+possible bloodshed in the contest between the Manchus in control of the
+army and the revolutionists. This rioting followed the assassination of
+the Tartar general, who was blown up, with a score of his bodyguard, as
+he was formally entering the city by the main south gate. When Hongkong
+was reached these rumors of trouble became more persistent, and they
+were given point by the arrival every day by boat and train of thousands
+of refugees from Canton. Every day the bulletin boards in the Chinese
+quarter contained dispatches from Canton, around which a swarm of
+excited coolies gathered and discussed the news. One night came the news
+that the Viceroy had acknowledged the revolutionists and had agreed to
+surrender on the following day. This report was received with great
+enthusiasm, and hundreds of dollars' worth of firecrackers were burned
+to celebrate the success of the new national movement.
+
+That night I left Hongkong on the Quong Si, one of the Chinese boats
+that ply between Hongkong and Canton, under the British flag. A
+half-dozen American tourists were also on the boat, including several
+ladies.
+
+The trip up the estuary of the Pearl river that leads to Canton was made
+without incident, and the boat anchored in the river opposite the
+Shameen or foreign concession early in the morning, but the passengers
+remained on board until about eight-thirty o'clock. The reports that
+came from the shore were not reassuring. Guides who came out in sampans
+said that there was only a forlorn hope of getting into the walled city,
+as nearly all the gates had been closed for two days. They also brought
+the alarming news that the Viceroy had reconsidered his decision of the
+previous night and had sent word that he proposed to resist by force any
+effort of the revolutionists to capture the city. The flag of the
+revolution had also been hauled down and the old familiar yellow
+dragon-flag hoisted in its place.
+
+While waiting for the guide to arrange for chairs to take the party
+through the city, we had a good opportunity to study the river life
+which makes Canton unique among Chinese cities. Out of the total
+population of over two millions, at least a quarter of a million live in
+boats from birth to death and know no other home. Many of these boats
+are large cargo junks which ply up and down the river and bring produce
+to the great city market, but the majority are small sampans that house
+one Chinese family and that find constant service in transferring
+passengers and freight from one side of the river to the other, as well
+as to and from the hundreds of steamers that call at the port. They have
+a covered cabin into which the family retires at night.
+
+These sampans are mainly rowed by women, who handle the boats with great
+skill. A young girl usually plies the short oar on the bow, while her
+mother, assisted by the younger children, works the large oar or sweep
+in the stern. The middle of the sampan is covered by a bamboo house, and
+in the forward part of this house the family has its kitchen fire and
+all its arrangements for food. The passenger sits on the after seat near
+the stern of the boat. These boats are scrubbed so that the woodwork
+shines, and the backs of the seats are covered with fresh matting.
+
+Looking out from the steamer one saw at least two miles of these small
+sampans and larger craft massed along both shores of the river, which is
+here about a half-mile wide. The foreign concession or Shameen is free
+from these boats. It is really a sand spit, surrounded by water, which
+was made over to the foreigners after the opium war.
+
+North of the Shameen is the new western suburb of Canton, which has
+recently been completed on European lines. It has a handsome bund,
+finely paved, with substantial buildings facing the river. Close up
+against this bund, and extending down the river bank for at least two
+miles are ranged row on row of houseboats. Every few minutes a boat
+darts out from the mass and is pulled to one of the ships in the stream.
+
+Across the river and massed against the shore of Honam, the suburb
+opposite Canton, is another tangle of sampans, with thousands of active
+river folk, all shouting and screaming. These yellow thousands toiling
+from break of day to late at night do not seem human; yet each boat has
+its family life. The younger children are tied so that they cannot fall
+overboard, and the older ones wear ingenious floats which will buoy
+them up should they tumble into the water. Boys and girls four or five
+years old assist in the working of the boat, while girls of twelve or
+fourteen are experts in handling the oar and in using the long bamboo
+boat hook that serves to carry the small craft out of the tangle of
+river activity.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+   The City of Boats at
+  Canton. This Floating
+    City in the Pearl
+  River Opposite Canton
+    Contains 250,000
+  People, Many of Whom
+     Never Venture
+        On Land]
+
+A type of river steamer which will amaze the American is an old
+stern-wheeler run by man power. It is provided with a treadmill just
+forward of the big stern wheel. Two or three tiers of naked, perspiring
+coolies are working this treadmill, all moving with the accuracy and
+precision of machinery. The irreverent foreigner calls these the
+"hotfoot" boats, and in the land where a coolie may be hired all day for
+forty cents Mexican or twenty cents in our coin this human power is far
+cheaper than soft coal at five dollars a ton. These boats carry freight
+and passengers and they move along at a lively pace.
+
+After an hour spent in study of this strange river life I was fortunate
+enough to go ashore with an American missionary whose husband was
+connected with a large college across the river from Canton. She came
+aboard in a sampan to take ashore two ladies from Los Angeles. She
+invited me to accompany the party, and as she spoke Chinese fluently I
+was glad to accept her offer. We went ashore in a sampan and at once
+proceeded to visit the western suburb. This part of Canton has been
+built in recent years and is somewhat cleaner than the old town. It is
+separated from the Shameen by bridges which may be drawn up like an
+ancient portcullis. Here we at once plunged into the thick of native
+life. The streets, not over ten feet wide, were crowded with people.
+
+We passed through streets devoted wholly to markets and restaurants, and
+the spectacle was enough to keep one from ever indulging hereafter in
+chop-suey. Here were tables spread with the intestines of various
+animals, pork in every form, chickens and ducks, roasted and covered
+with some preparation that made them look as though just varnished. Here
+were many strange vegetables and fruits, and here, hung against the
+wall, were row on row of dried rats. At a neighboring stall were several
+small, flat tubs, in which live fish swam about, waiting for a customer
+to order them knocked on the head. Then we passed into a street of curio
+shops, but the grill work in front was closed and behind could be seen
+the timid proprietors, who evidently did not mean to take any chances of
+having their stores looted by robbers. For three or four days the most
+valuable goods in all the Canton stores had been removed as rapidly as
+possible. Thousands of bales of silk and tons of rare curios were
+already safe in the foreign warehouses at the Shameen or had been
+carried down the river to Hongkong. Often we had to flatten ourselves
+against the sides of the street to give passage to chairs containing
+high-class Chinese and their families, followed by coolies bearing the
+most valuable of their possessions packed in cedar chests.
+
+At an American hospital we were met by several young Englishmen
+connected with medical and Young Men's Christian Association work. They
+proposed a trip through the old walled city, but they refused to take
+the two ladies, as they said it would be dangerous in the excited
+condition of the people. So we set out, five in number. After a short
+walk we reached one of the gates of the walled city, only to find it
+closed and locked. A short walk brought us to a second gate, which was
+opened readily by the Chinese guards, armed with a new type of German
+army rifle. The walls of the old city were fully ten feet thick where
+we entered, and about twenty feet high, made of large slabs of granite.
+
+Once inside the city walls a great surprise awaited us. Instead of
+crowded streets and the hum of trade were deserted streets, closed shops
+and absolute desolation. For blocks the only persons seen were soldiers
+and refugees making their way to the gates. In one fine residence
+quarter an occasional woman peered through the front gates; in other
+sections all the houses were closed and barred. Soon we reached the
+Buddhist temple, known as the Temple of Horrors. Around the central
+courtyard are grouped a series of booths, in each of which are wooden
+figures representing the torture of those who commit deadly sins. In one
+booth a victim is being sawed in two; in others poor wretches are being
+garroted, boiled in oil, broken on the wheel and subjected to many other
+ingenious tortures. At one end is an elaborate joss-house, with a great
+bronze bell near by. In normal conditions this temple is crowded, and
+true believers buy slips of prayers, which they throw into the booths to
+ward off ill luck.
+
+The rush of refugees grew greater as we penetrated toward the heart of
+the city. On the main curio street the huge gilded signs hung as if in
+mockery above shops which had been stripped of all their treasures.
+Occasionally a restaurant remained open and these were crowded with
+chair coolies, who were waiting to be engaged by some merchant eager to
+escape from the city. Gone was all the life and bustle that my
+companions said made this the most remarkable street in Canton. It was
+like walking through a city of the dead, and it bore a striking
+resemblance to San Francisco's business district on the day of the great
+fire. At intervals we passed the yamens of magistrates, but the guards
+and attaches were enjoying a vacation, as no court proceedings were
+held. Progress became more and more difficult as the rush of refugees
+increased and returning chair coolies clamored for passageway. The
+latter had taken parties to the river boats and were coming back for
+more passengers. As it became evident that we could not see the normal
+life of the city, my companions finally urged that we return, as they
+feared the gates might be closed against us, so we retraced our way,
+this time taking the main street which led to the great south gate.
+
+Not far from the gate we came on the scene of the blowing up of the
+Tartar general. Seven shops on both sides of the street were wrecked by
+the explosion. The heavy fronts were partly intact, but the interiors
+were a mass of brick and charred timbers, for fire followed the
+explosion. The general had waited several months to allow the political
+excitement that followed his appointment to subside. He felt safe in
+entering the city with a strong bodyguard, but not over one hundred
+yards from the gate a bomb was thrown which killed the general
+instantly, mangled a score of his retainers and killed over a dozen
+Chinese bystanders. The revolutionists tried to clear the street so that
+none of their own people should suffer, but they failed because of the
+curiosity of the crowd.
+
+Near by this place is the old Buddhist water clock, which for five
+hundred years has marked the time by the drip of water from a hidden
+spring. The masonry of this water-clock building looks very ancient, and
+the clock is reached by several long flights of granite stairs.
+
+After viewing the clock we reached the wall and passed through the big
+south gates, which are fully six inches thick, of massive iron, studded
+with large nails. Outside on the bund were drawn up several rapid-fire
+guns belonging to Admiral Li, the efficient head of the Chinese navy at
+Canton, who also had a score of trim little gunboats patrolling the
+river. These boats had rapid-fire guns at bow and stern.
+
+So we came back to the Canton hospital, where we had luncheon. After
+this I made my way back to the steamer, to find her crowded with over
+one thousand refugees from the old city, with their belongings. The
+decks and even the dining saloon were choked with these people, and
+during the two hours before the boat sailed at least three hundred more
+passengers were taken on board. We sailed in the late afternoon and were
+followed by four other river steamers, carrying in all over six thousand
+refugees.
+
+
+SINGAPORE THE MEETING PLACE OF MANY RACES
+
+Of all the places in the Orient, the most cosmopolitan is Singapore, the
+gateway to the Far East; the one city which everyone encircling the
+globe is forced to visit, at least for a day. Hongkong streets may have
+seemed to present an unparalleled mixture of races; Canton's narrow
+alleys may have appeared strange and exotic; but Singapore surpasses
+Honkong in the number and picturesqueness of the races represented in
+its streets, as it easily surpasses Canton in strange sights and in
+swarming toilers from many lands that fill the boats on its canals and
+the narrow, crooked streets that at night glow with light and resound
+with the clamor of alien tongues.
+
+Singapore is built on an island which adjoins the extreme end of the
+Malay Peninsula. It is about sixty miles from the equator, and it has a
+climate that varies only a few degrees from seventy during the entire
+year. This heat would not be debilitating were it not for the extreme
+humidity of the atmosphere. To a stranger, especially if he comes from
+the Pacific Coast, the place seems like a Turkish bath. The slightest
+physical exertion makes the perspiration stand out in beads on the face.
+
+Singapore has a population of over three hundred thousand people; it has
+a great commercial business, which is growing every year; it already has
+the largest dry dock in the world. Its bund is not so imposing as that
+of Hongkong, but it has more public squares and its government buildings
+are far more handsome. As Hongkong owes much of its splendid
+architecture and its air of stability to Sir Paul Chator, so Singapore
+owes its spacious avenues, its fine buildings, its many parks, its
+interesting museum and its famous botanical gardens to Sir Stamford
+Raffles, one of the British empire-builders who have left indelibly
+impressed on the Orient their genius for founding cities and
+constructing great public enterprises. Yet, Singapore, with far more
+business than Manila, is destitute of a proper sewer system, and the
+streets in its native quarters reek with foul odors.
+
+The feature of Singapore that first impresses the stranger is the
+variety of races seen in any of the streets, and this continues to
+impress him so long as he remains in the city. My stay in Singapore was
+four days, due to the fact that it was necessary to wait here for the
+departure of the British West India Company's steamer for Rangoon and
+Calcutta. In jinrikishas and pony carts I saw all quarters of the town,
+and my wonder grew every day at the remarkable show of costumes
+presented by the different races. One day, late in the afternoon, I sat
+down on a coping of the wall that surrounds a pretty park on Orchard
+road, and in the space of a half hour watched the moving show that
+passed by. At this hour all Singapore takes its outing to the Botanical
+Gardens, and one may study the people who have leisure and money.
+
+The favorite rig is still the victoria drawn by high-stepping horses,
+with coachman and postilion, but the automobile is evidently making
+rapid strides in popular favor, despite the fact that the heavy, humid
+air makes the odor of gasoline cling to the roadway. A high-class Arab,
+with his keen, intellectual face, rides by with a bright Malay driving
+the machine. Then comes a fat and prosperous-looking Parsee in his
+carriage, followed by a rich Chinese merchant arrayed in spotless white,
+seated in a motor car, his family about him, and some relative or
+servant at the wheel. Along moves a rickshaw with an East Indian woman,
+the sun flashing on the heavy gold rings in her ears, while a carriage
+follows with a pretty blonde girl with golden hair, seated beside her
+Chinese ayah, or nurse. A score of young Britons come next in rickshaws,
+some carrying tennis racquets, and others reading books or the afternoon
+paper. The rickshaws here, unlike those of Japan or China, carry two
+people. They are pulled by husky Chinese coolies, who have as remarkable
+development of the leg muscles as their Japanese brothers, with far
+better chests. In fact, the average Chinese rickshaw coolie of Singapore
+is a fine physical type, and he will draw for hours with little show of
+suffering a rickshaw containing two people. The pony cart of Singapore
+is another unique institution. It is a four-wheeled cart, seating four
+people, drawn by a pony no larger than the average Shetland. The driver
+sits on a little box in front, and at the end of the wagon is a basket
+in which rests the pony's allowance of green grass for the day. The pony
+cart is popular with parties of three or four and, as most of
+Singapore's streets are level, the burden on the animal is not severe.
+
+This moving procession of the races goes on until eleven-thirty o'clock,
+the popular dinner hour all along the Chinese coast. It is varied by the
+occasional appearance of a bullock cart, which has probably changed very
+little in hundreds of years. The bullocks have a pronounced hump at the
+shoulders, and are of the color and size of a Jersey cow. The neckyoke
+is a mere bar of wood fastened to the pole, and the cart is heavy and
+ungainly. Nowhere in Singapore does one find coolies straining at huge
+loads as in China and Japan, as this labor is given over to bullocks.
+Here, however, both men and women carry heavy burdens on their heads,
+while the Chinese use the pole and baskets, so familiar to all
+Californians.
+
+The Malays and East Indians furnish the most picturesque feature of all
+street crowds. The Malays, dark of skin, with keen faces, wear the
+sarong, a skirt of bright-colored silk or cotton wrapped about the loins
+and falling almost to the shoe. The sarong is scant and reminds one
+strongly of the hobble-skirt, as no Malay is able to take a full stride
+in it. The skirt and jacket of the Malay may vary, but the sarong is
+always of the same style, and the brighter the color the more it seems
+to please the wearer. The East Indians are of many kinds. The Sikhs, who
+are the police of Hongkong, here share such duty with Tamils from
+southern India and some Chinese.
+
+No Malay is ever seen in any low, menial employment. The Malay is well
+represented on the electric cars, where he serves usually as conductor
+and sometimes as motorman. He is also an expert boatman and fisherman.
+He is very proud and is said to be extremely loyal to foreigners who
+treat him with justice and consideration. The Malay, however, can not be
+depended on for labor on the rubber or cocoanut plantations, as he will
+not work unless he can make considerable money. Ordinary wages do not
+appeal to a man in a country where eight cents is the cost of
+maintenance on rice and fish, with plenty of tea. The Malay is a
+gentleman, even when in reduced circumstances, and he must be treated
+with consideration that would be lost or wasted on the ordinary Chinese.
+
+The Chinese occupy a peculiar position in Singapore. It is the only
+British crown colony in which the Chinese is accorded any equality with
+white men. Here in the early days the Chinese were welcomed not only for
+their ability to do rough pioneer work, but because of their commercial
+ability. From the outset they have controlled the trade with their
+countrymen in the Malayan States, while at the same time they have
+handled all the produce raised by Chinese. They have never done much in
+the export trade, nor have they proved successful in carrying on the
+steamship business, because they can not be taught the value of keeping
+vessels in fine condition and of catering to the tastes of the foreign
+traveling public. On the other hand, the great Chinese merchants of
+Singapore have amassed large fortunes and have built homes which surpass
+those of rich Europeans. On Orchard road, which leads to the Botanical
+Gardens, are several Chinese residences which excite the traveler's
+wonder, because of the beauty of the buildings and grounds and the
+lavishness of ornament and decorations. These merchants, whose names are
+known throughout the Malay States and as far as Hongkong and Manila,
+represent the Chinese at his best, freed from all restrictions and
+permitted to give his commercial genius full play.
+
+
+STRANGE NIGHT SCENES IN THE CITY OF SINGAPORE
+
+The Chinese element in Singapore is so overwhelming that it arrests the
+attention of the most careless tourist, but no one appreciates the
+enormous number of the Mongolians in Singapore until he visits the
+Chinese and Malay districts at night. With a friend I started out one
+night about eight o'clock. It was the first night in Singapore that one
+could walk with any comfort. We went down North Bridge road, one of the
+main avenues on which an electric car line runs. After walking a
+half-mile we struck off to the right where the lights were bright. Just
+as soon as we left the main avenue we began to see life as it is in
+Singapore after dark. The first native street was devoted to small
+hawkers, who lined both sides of the narrow thoroughfare. Each had about
+six feet of space, and each had his name and his number as a licensed
+vender. The goods were of every description and of the cheapest quality.
+They had been brought in small boxes, and on these sat the Chinese
+merchant and frequently his wife and children. A flare or two from cheap
+nut oil illuminated the scene.
+
+Passing in front of these stands was a constantly moving crowd of
+Chinese, Malays and East Indians of many races, all chaffering and
+talking at the top of their voices. At frequent intervals were street
+tea counters, where food was sold, evidently at very low prices. Ranged
+along on benches were men eating rice and various stews that were taken
+piping hot from kettles resting on charcoal stoves. One old Chinese
+woman had a very condensed cooking apparatus. Over two small braziers
+she had two copper pots, each divided into four compartments and in each
+of these different food was cooking.
+
+Back of the street peddlers were the regular stores, all of which were
+open and apparently doing a good business. As in Hongkong, the Chinese
+workmen labor until ten or eleven o'clock at night, even carpenters and
+basket-makers working a full force by the light of gas or electricity.
+The recent events in China had their reflex here. All the makers of
+shirts and clothing were feverishly busy cutting up and sewing the new
+flag of the revolution. Long lines of red and blue bunting ran up and
+down these rooms, and each workman was driving his machine like mad,
+turning out a flag every few minutes. The fronts of most of these stores
+were decorated with flags of the revolution.
+
+The most conspicuous places of business on these streets were the large
+restaurants, where hundreds of Chinese were eating their chow at small
+tables. The din was terrific, and the lights flashing on the naked
+yellow skins, wet with perspiration, made a strange spectacle. Next to
+these eating houses in number were handsomely decorated places in which
+Chinese women plied the most ancient trade known to history. Some of
+these women were very comely, but few were finely dressed, as in this
+quarter cheapness seemed to be the rule in everything. Around some of
+these places crowds of Chinese gathered and exchanged comment apparently
+on attractive new arrivals in these resorts of vice. Many of the inmates
+were young girls, fourteen or sixteen years old.
+
+Less numerous than these houses were the opium dens, scattered
+throughout all these streets. These haunts of the drug that enslaves
+were long and narrow rooms, with a central passage and a long, low
+platform on each side. This platform was made of fine hardwood, and by
+constant use shone like old mahogany. Ranged along on these platforms
+wide enough for two men, facing each other and using a common lamp, were
+scores of opium smokers. As many as fifty men could be accommodated in
+each of these large establishments. The opium was served as a sticky
+mass, and each man rolled some of it on a metal pin and cooked it over
+the lamp. When cooked, the ball of opium was thrust into a small hole in
+the bamboo opium pipe. Then the smoker, lying on his side, drew the
+flame of the lamp against this opium and the smoke came up through the
+bamboo tube of the pipe and was inhaled. One cooking of opium makes
+never more than three whiffs of the pipe, sometimes only two. The effect
+on the novice is very exhilarating, but the seasoned smoker is forced to
+consume more and more of the drug to secure the desired effect. In one
+of these dens we watched a large Chinese prepare his opium. He took only
+two whiffs, but the second one was so deep that the smoke made the tears
+run out of his eyes. His companion was so far under the influence of the
+drug that his eyes were glazed and he was staring at some vision called
+up by the powerful narcotic. One old Chinese, seeing our interest in the
+spectacle, shook his head and said: "Opium very bad for Chinaman; make
+him poor; make him weak." Further along in this quarter we came upon
+several huge Chinese restaurants, ablaze with light and noisy with
+music. We were told that dinners were being given in honor of
+revolutionist victories.
+
+In all our night ramble through the Chinese and Malay quarters of
+Singapore we saw not a single European, yet we met only courteous
+treatment everywhere, and our curiosity was taken as a compliment.
+Singapore is well policed by various races, among which the Sikhs and
+Bengali predominate. An occasional Malay is met acting as a police
+officer, but it is evident that such work does not appeal to the native
+of the Straits Settlements.
+
+On our return to the hotel we crossed a large estuary which is spanned
+by several bridges. Here were hundreds of small boats moored to the
+shore, the homes of thousands of river people. This business of
+transportation on the water is in the hands of the Malays, who are most
+expert boatmen. It is a pleasure to watch one of these men handle a huge
+cargo boat. With his large oar he will scull rapidly, while his
+assistant uses a long pole.
+
+One of the sights of Singapore is the Botanical Gardens, about three and
+one-half miles from town. The route is along Orchard road and Tanglin
+road, two beautiful avenues that are lined with comfortable bungalows of
+Europeans, and magnificent mansions of Chinese millionaires. The gardens
+occupy a commanding position overlooking the surrounding country, and
+they have been laid out with much skill. The drives are bordered with
+ornamental trees from all lands. The most beautiful of all the palms is
+the Traveler's tree from Madagascar. It is a palm the fronds of which
+grow up like a regular fan. At a little distance it looks like a
+peacock's tail spread to the full extent. It is so light, graceful and
+feathery that it satisfies the eye as no other palm does. Of other palms
+there are legion, from the Mountain Cabbage palm of the West Indies to
+endless varieties from Malay, Madagascar and western Africa.
+
+
+CHARACTERISTIC SIGHTS IN BURMA'S LARGEST CITY
+
+One of the characteristic sights of Rangoon is that of the big Siamese
+elephants piling teak in the lumber yards along Rangoon river. It is the
+same sight that Kipling pictured in the lines in his perfect ballad,
+_Mandalay_, which an Englishman who knows his Burma well says is "the
+finest ballad in the world, with all the local color wrong."
+
+These lumber yards are strung along the river, but are easily reached by
+an electric car. Several are conducted by Chinese, but the finest yard
+is in charge of the government. At the first Chinese yard was the
+largest elephant in the city, a huge animal fifty-five years old, with
+great tusks admirably fitted for lifting large logs. A dozen tourists
+were grouped about the yard in the early morning, for these elephants
+are only worked in the morning and evening hours, when it is cool. An
+East Indian coolie was mounted on his back, or rather just back of his
+ears, with his legs dangling loose. With his naked feet he indicated
+whether the elephant was to go to the right or left, and when he wished
+to emphasize an order he hit the beast a blow upon the head with a heavy
+steel rod.
+
+Much of the work which this elephant did was spectacular, as it showed
+the enormous strength of the animal as well as his great intelligence.
+He took up on his tusks a log of teak, the native wood of this country,
+as hard as hickory and much heavier, and, with the aid of his trunk,
+stood with it at attention until every camera fiend had taken his
+picture. Then his driver made the huge beast move a large log of teak
+from a muddy hole by sheer force of the head and neck. The animal
+dropped almost to his knees, and then putting forth all his strength he
+actually pushed the log, which weighed about a ton and one-half, through
+the mud up to the gangplank of the saw. Then he piled several huge logs
+one upon the other, to show his skill in this work.
+
+Leaving this yard the party walked about a half-mile through trails,
+with marshy land on each side, to the big government timber yard. Here
+were thousands of logs which had been cut far up in the teak forests of
+the interior, dragged through the swamps of the Irrawaddy by elephants,
+then floated down the great river to Rangoon. All the logs in this yard
+were marked with a red cross to signify that they belonged to the
+government. Down by the river shore, where the ground was so soft that
+their feet sank deep into the slimy mud, were five elephants engaged in
+hauling logs up from the river to the dry ground near the shore.
+
+The chief object of interest in Rangoon is the great Shwe Dagon pagoda,
+which dominates the whole city. Its golden summit may be seen for many
+miles gleaming above dull green masses of foliage. This pagoda is the
+center of the Buddhist faith, as it is said to contain veritable relics
+of Gautama as well as of the three Buddhas who came before him.
+Thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Burmah, Siam, Cochin-China,
+Korea, Ceylon and other Oriental countries visit the pagoda every year
+and their offerings at the various shrines amount to millions of
+dollars. The pagoda differs absolutely from the temples of Japan and
+China in form, material and the arrangement of lesser shrines; but its
+impressiveness is greatly injured by the presence of hundreds of
+hucksters, who sell not only curios and souvenirs of the pagoda, but
+food and drink.
+
+The pagoda, which is about two miles from the business center of
+Rangoon, is built upon a mound. The circumference is thirteen hundred
+and fifty-five feet and the total height from the base is three hundred
+and seventy feet. It is constructed in circular style, its concentric
+rings gradually lessening in size until the top is reached. This is
+surmounted by a gilt iron work or "ti" on which little bells are hung.
+This "ti" was a gift from the late king of Burmah, who spent a quarter
+of a million dollars on its decoration with gold and precious stones.
+The mound on which the pagoda stands is divided into two rectangular
+terraces. The upper terrace, nine hundred feet by six hundred and
+eighty-five, is one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the
+ground. The ascent is by three flights of brick stairs, the fourth
+flight at the back being closed to permit of the building of
+fortifications by which the English may defend the pagoda in any
+emergency. The southern or main entrance is made conspicuous by two
+enormous leogryphs, which are of plastered brick.
+
+Up these steep stairs the visitor climbs, pestered by loathsome beggars
+and importuned on every hand to buy relics, flowers and articles of gold
+and silver. One would fancy he was in a great bazar rather than in the
+entrance hall of the finest monument in the world erected in honor of
+Buddha. The four chapels ranged around the rectangular terrace are
+ornamented by figures of the sitting Buddha. Then one visits a score of
+magnificently decorated shrines, in which are Buddhas in every variety
+of position. In one is the reclining Gautama in alabaster, in whose
+honor the pagoda was built. In others are Gautamas of brass, ivory,
+glass, clay and wood. Before many of these shrines candles are burning
+and devotees are seated or are praying with their faces bowed to the
+stone pavement. On one side of the platform is a row of miniature
+pagodas, all encrusted with decoration of gold and precious stones, the
+gifts of thousands of pious devotees. Among these shrines are many small
+bells which are rung by worshippers when they deposit their offerings,
+and one great bell (the third largest in the world, weighing forty-two
+and one-fourth tons), given by King Tharrawaddy.
+
+The eyes of the visitor are wearied with the splendid decoration of the
+chapels, the gilding, the carving, the inlaid glass work. It seems as
+though there was no end to the rows on rows of Buddhas in every
+conceivable position. Interspersed among them are tall poles from which
+float long streamers of bamboo bearing painted historical pictures,
+including those of the capture of the pagoda by the British. Thousands
+crowd these platforms. Some offer gifts to various shrines, others say
+prayer after prayer, still others strike bells to give warning to evil
+spirits that they have offered up their petitions to Buddha, others hang
+eagerly on the words of fortune tellers. All buy food and drink and the
+whole place suggests in its good cheer a country picnic rather than a
+pilgrimage to the greatest Buddhist shrine in the world.
+
+When one has left the pagoda he bears the memory of magnificent
+decorations, of vast crowds, but of little real reverence. The great
+golden pagoda itself is the dominating feature in every view of Rangoon,
+just as the Washington monument dominates all other structures in
+Washington.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXV
+
+      Queen's Road in
+   Hongkong. This is One
+   of the Most Picturesque
+   Streets in the Orient,
+   With Large Stores and
+  Splendid Gilded Signs on
+  Each Side. The Buildings
+     Are so Constructed
+     That the Sidewalk
+      Becomes a Shaded
+          Arcade]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVI
+
+    Flower Market in a
+   Hongkong Street--One
+     of the Prettiest
+  Sights in Hongkong, as
+  Orchids, Irises, Lilies
+  and Other Blossoms Are
+     Always on Sale]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVII
+
+    Coolies Carrying
+  Burdens at Hongkong.
+  Chinese Coolies Using
+   the Bamboo Pole Are
+    a Common Sight in
+  Hongkong. They Carry
+    Several Hundred
+   Pounds, Moving at
+      a Dog Trot]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVIII
+
+  The Spacious Foreign
+    Bund at Hongkong,
+  With the Row of Lofty
+   Business Buildings.
+   The Ferry Takes One
+     to Kowloon, the
+  Native City, Opposite
+        Hongkong]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIX
+
+      Chinese Junks in
+   Hongkong Harbor, These
+     Junks, With Their
+  Curious Sails of Matting
+     and Bamboo Spars,
+      Form One of the
+     Features of Every
+     Chinese Harbour or
+          Sea View]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXX
+
+  View of the Water-front
+  at Canton. This General
+     View of the Pearl
+   River and the Canton
+   Bund, or Water-front,
+    Shows the Enormous
+   Floating Population
+      on the River]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXI
+
+   The New Chinese Bund
+  at Canton. The Chinese
+    Recently Completed
+        This Bund.
+  It Contrasts Strongly
+     With the Ancient
+  Walled City, a Stone's
+    Throw in the Rear]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXII
+
+ A Confucian Festival at
+  Singapore. This Shows
+  the Elaborate Street
+     Decorations to
+     Commemorate the
+      Festival of
+    Confucius in the
+    Chinese Quarter]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIII
+
+  A Main Street in the
+   Native Quarter of
+  Singapore. The Shops
+   Are Small and the
+  Shopkeepers Live in
+  the Rooms Above. The
+  Flags Displayed Are
+    Those of the New
+    Chinese Republic]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIV
+
+      The Y. M. C. A.
+  Building at Singapore.
+  This Fine Structure Has
+   Many Counterparts in
+    the Chief Oriental
+    Cities, Where the
+  Association is Doing a
+       Great Work]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXV
+
+          The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon.
+  The Finest Buddhist Temple in all Indo-China, Containing
+     Alleged Relics of Gautama. It is Gilded from Base
+       to Summit and May be Seen Forty Miles at Sea]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVI
+
+        Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda.
+  On Each Side is an Enormous Leogryph, Built of
+       Brick and Covered With Plaster. The
+           Porch Has a Superbly Carved
+                      Roof]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVII
+
+          Burmese
+    Worshipping Before
+  Shrine in the Pagoda at
+  Rangoon. These Figures,
+     Mainly Women and
+    Children, Show the
+   National Dress. Note
+      the Richness of
+     Decoration of the
+         Shrines.]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVIII
+
+   Riverside Scene at
+  Rangoon. Here Are the
+   Native Cargo Boats
+  Which Bring Rice and
+   Other Products Down
+     the Irrawaddy.
+   Rangoon Has a Trade
+   Second Only to That
+     of Calcutta and
+         Bombay]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIX
+
+  Trained Elephant Piling
+     Teak at Rangoon.
+    This Is One of the
+    Great Sights of the
+   Orient. The Elephants
+    Work in the Lumber
+      Yards Along the
+   Water-front and Lift
+     Logs That Weigh
+     One and One-Half
+           Tons]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XL
+
+         Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon.
+  This Characteristic View is From a Pretty Park in
+     Rangoon. It Shows the Summit of the Pagoda
+                  in the Distance]
+
+
+
+
+  INDIA, THE LAND
+  OF TEMPLES, PALACES
+  AND MONUMENTS
+
+
+CALCUTTA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF ORIENTAL CITIES
+
+Calcutta, the great commercial port of northern India and the former
+capital of the Empire, is the most beautiful Oriental city, not even
+excepting Hongkong. Its main claim to this distinction is the possession
+of the famous Maidan or Esplanade, which runs along the Hoogly river for
+nearly two miles and which far surpasses the Luneta of Manila in
+picturesqueness. The Maidan is three-quarters of a mile wide at its
+beginning and it broadens out to one and one-quarter miles in width at
+its lower end. Government House, the residence of the Viceroy, is
+opposite the northern end of the Maidan, while at the southern end is
+Belvedere, the headquarters of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. With
+historic Fort William on one side and most of the large hotels, the big
+clubs and the Imperial Museum on the other, the Maidan is really the
+center of all civic life. At the southeast end is the race course; not
+far away is the fine cathedral. Near by are the beautiful Eden Gardens
+(the gift of the sisters of the great Lord Auckland), which are
+noteworthy for the Burmese pagoda, transported from Prome and set up
+here on the water's edge. It is seldom that a city is laid out on such
+magnificent lines as is Calcutta. It reminds one of Washington in its
+picturesque boulevards and avenues, all finely shaded with noble mango
+trees. And it also has the distinction of green turf even in the heat
+of summer, owing to the heavy dews that refresh the grass like showers.
+
+Calcutta is associated in the minds of most readers with the infamous
+Black Hole into which one hundred and forty-six wretched white people
+were crowded on a hot night of June in 1750 and out of which only
+twenty-three emerged alive on the following morning. The Black Hole was
+the regimental jail of old Fort William and its site is now marked by a
+pavement of black marble and a tablet adjoining the fine postoffice
+building, while across the street is an imposing monument to the memory
+of the victims, whose names are all enumerated. The hole was twenty-two
+by fourteen feet, while it was only eighteen feet in height. These
+prisoners who were flung into this little jail were residents of
+Calcutta who fell into the hands of the Nawab of Murshedabad. Calcutta
+is also famous as the birthplace of Thackeray, a bust of whom ornaments
+the art gallery of the Imperial Museum. Scattered about the Maidan are
+statues of a dozen men whose deeds have shed luster on English arms or
+diplomacy.
+
+Calcutta, as the first city of India that I had seen, impressed me very
+strongly, although the native life has been colored somewhat by contact
+with British and other Europeans. Here, for the first time, one sees
+ninety-nine out of one hundred people in the streets wearing turbans.
+Here also the women mingle freely in the streets, wearing long robes
+which they wind dexterously about their bodies, leaving the lower legs
+and the right arm bare. A few cover the face, but the great majority
+leave it exposed. Many are hideously disfigured by large nose rings,
+while others have small rings or jewels set in one nostril. Nearly every
+woman wears bracelets on arms and wrists, heavy anklets and, in many
+cases, massive gold or silver rings on the big toes. In some cases what
+look like heavy necklaces are wound several times around the ankles. It
+is the custom of the lower and middle classes not to put their savings
+in a bank, but to melt down the coin and make it into bracelets or other
+ornaments, which are worn by their women. Here in Calcutta also one sees
+for the first time hundreds of men and women wearing the marks of their
+caste on their foreheads, either painted in red or marked in white with
+the ash of cow dung.
+
+Although the main streets of Calcutta are distinctly European, a walk of
+a few blocks in any direction from the main business section will bring
+you into the native or the Chinese quarter, where the streets are
+narrow, the houses low between stories and the shops mere holes in the
+wall, with only a door for ventilation. In one quarter every store is
+kept by a Chinese and here a large amount of manufacturing is done. In
+other quarters natives are carrying on all kinds of manufacture, in the
+same primitive way that they worked two thousand years ago. The
+carpenter uses tools that are very much like those in an American boy's
+box of toy tools; the shoemaker does all the work of turning out a
+finished shoe from the hide of leather on his wall. Outside these stores
+in the street the most common beast of burden is a small bullock of the
+size and color of a Jersey cow; These little animals pull enormous
+loads, and they are so clever that when they see an electric car
+approaching they will start on the run and clear the track.
+
+Many of the houses in the native quarter of Calcutta are built of adobe,
+with earthen tiles, which make them bear a strong resemblance to the
+adobe dwellings of the Spanish-Californians before the American
+occupation. In many cases very little straw is used in this adobe, for
+the walls have frequently crumbled away under the heavy rains of winter.
+Other houses are built of brick, faced with plaster, which is either
+painted or whitewashed.
+
+What impresses any visitor is the squalor and the wretchedness of these
+homes of India's poor. The clothing of a whole family is not worth one
+American dollar, while about ten cents in our money will feed a family
+of four. The houses have no furniture, except a bed of the most
+primitive pattern, made of latticed reeds; the smoke from the cooking
+fire goes up through the roof or else finds its way out the open door;
+seldom are there any windows, all the air coming in at the open door;
+the floor of the house is of dirt and on this squat father and mother
+and the children, with the family goat. In the small shops work is
+carried on seven days in the week until nine or ten o'clock at night,
+with an hour for lunch and siesta at midday. The hopelessness of the lot
+of the Hindoo (who is bound by rigid caste rules to follow in the
+footsteps of his father) can never be appreciated until one has seen him
+here in his native land.
+
+For two hours I watched scores of natives taking a wash at the large,
+free bathing ghat near the pontoon bridge. On the river front is a
+restaurant, and back of this steps lead down to a spacious platform on
+the level of the river. A score of men and boys and one woman were
+taking a bath in the dirty water, which was thick with mud washed up by
+passing steamers. A few of these bathers had rented towels from an
+office on the stairs, but the great majority simply rubbed themselves
+with their hands and then dried in the sun. All washed their faces in
+the dirty water and rinsed their mouths with it. The men took off their
+loin clothes and washed these out, then wrapped them about their bodies
+and came out dripping water. The lone woman was very fat. She waded into
+the water and when she came out her thin robe clung to her massive form
+revealing all its curves. She calmly took a seat on the stairs and
+proceeded to massage her head.
+
+The most interesting place near Calcutta is the Royal Botanical Gardens,
+situated on the opposite side of the river and about six miles from
+town. These gardens were laid out in 1786 and they vie with the botanic
+gardens at Singapore in the variety of trees and shrubs from all parts
+of the tropics. Here is the great banyan tree which covers one thousand
+square feet and is one hundred and forty-two years old. At a height of
+five and one-half feet from the ground the circumference of the main
+trunk is fifty-one feet; the height is eighty-five feet, while it has
+five hundred and seventy aerial roots, which have actually taken root in
+the ground. The tree at a little distance looks like a small grove.
+
+The Imperial Museum at Calcutta is well worth a couple of hours, for it
+contains one of the finest collections of antiquities in the Orient. The
+museum is housed in an enormous building facing the Maidan, which has a
+frontage of three hundred feet and a depth of two hundred and seventy
+feet. In the ethnological gallery are arranged figures of all the native
+races of India with their costumes; agricultural implements, fishing and
+hunting appliances, models of Indian village life, specimens of ancient
+and modern weapons and many other exhibits. Another room that will repay
+study is a gallery containing old steel and wood engravings of the great
+characters in the mutiny, with busts of Clive, Havelock, Outram and
+Nicholson, and with a life-size bust of Thackeray.
+
+
+BATHING AND BURNING THE DEAD AT BENARES
+
+It is estimated that one million pilgrims visit the sacred city of
+Benares every year, and it is these pilgrims that furnish the largest
+income which the city receives from any source. Here are the most holy
+shrines of Buddhism; here Vishnu and Siva have their strongholds, and
+here must come Hindoos from all parts of India to bathe in the sacred
+waters of the Ganges and to offer up prayers at the many holy shrines in
+the city's temples.
+
+Benares is sacred because here Buddha first made his residence. The
+place that he selected was ancient Sarnath, six miles from Benares,
+which is now a heap of ruins, in which British government experts are
+delving for remains of the great city that was founded six centuries
+before the Christian era. At Sarnath Buddha built a great temple and
+founded a school from which his disciples spread to all parts of India.
+But after 750 A.D. Buddhism disappeared gradually from India, and
+Hindooism took its place. The fine temples that now line the Ganges for
+three miles were built by Maratha princes in the seventeenth century.
+They also built the scores of bathing ghats that now furnish one of the
+most picturesque spectacles that the world affords. A ghat in Hindustani
+is a stone stairway that leads down to the water, and Benares has a
+succession of these magnificent stairways leading down to the Ganges,
+overlooked by palaces of many Maharajas and temples built by rulers and
+priests. No sight more splendid could be conceived than that of these
+domes and minarets flashing in the rays of the early morning sun while
+thousands of devout believers crowd the bathing ghats and offer prayers
+to Vishnu, after they have bathed in the waters of the Ganges; and
+mourning relatives burn the bodies of their dead after these have had
+the sacred water poured over their faces.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares.
+  This is a View of the Dasaswamedh Ghat, the Most
+   Popular Bathing Place in the Sacred City. Note
+       the Holy Men Under the Umbrellas, Who
+            Take Tribute of All Bathers]
+
+The visitor who wishes to see the pious Hindoos bathe in the Ganges goes
+to the river in the early morning soon after the sun has risen. He
+descends one of the large ghats and takes a boat, in which he may be
+rowed down the river past the bathing ghats and the one ghat where the
+dead are burned. The scene is one that will never be forgotten. Against
+the clear sky is outlined a succession of domes and spires that mark the
+position of a score of sacred shrines, with two slender minarets that
+rise from the mosque built by the great Moslem Emperor, Aurunzeb. The
+sunlight flashes on these domes and spires and it lights up thousands of
+bathing floats and stands that line the muddy banks of the river. The
+floats are dotted with hundreds of bathers and the number of these
+increases every few minutes. They come by hundreds down the great stone
+stairways to their favorite bathing places, where, after a thorough
+bath, they may be shaved or massaged or may listen to the expounding of
+the Hindoo sacred books by a learned Brahmin sitting in the shade of a
+huge umbrella. A characteristic feature of this hillside is the number
+of these large umbrellas, each of which marks the place of a priest or a
+holy man who has done some marvels of penance that give him a strong
+hold on the superstitious natives and induce them to pay him well for
+prayers or a sacred talisman.
+
+With my boat moored near the bank and directly opposite the Manikarnika
+ghat, the favorite place on the river, I watched the stream of bathers
+for nearly an hour. The fanatical devotion that will induce a reasonable
+human being to bathe in the waters of the Ganges seems incredible to
+anyone from the Western World. The water of the sacred river is here of
+the consistency of pea soup. The city's sewer pipes empty into the
+Ganges just above the bathing ghats, and the current carries this filth
+directly to the place which the Hindoos have selected for their rites.
+The water is not only muddy and unclean, but it offends the nose. Yet
+Hindoos of good family bathe here side by side with the poverty
+stricken. They use the mud of the Ganges in lieu of soap; they scrub
+their bodies thoroughly, and then they actually take this foul-smelling
+water in their mouths and clean their teeth with it. This creed of
+Buddha is a pure democracy, for there is no distinction of class in
+bathing. Women bathe by the side of men, although they remain covered
+with the gauze-like garments that are a sop to modesty.
+
+The Manikarnika ghat is the most picturesque of all these bathing places
+along the Ganges, as the long flight of stone steps is in good
+preservation and the background of temples and palaces satisfies the
+eye. The river front for thirty feet is densely crowded with bathers who
+stand on small floats or go into the shallow water. With a Western crowd
+so dense as this there would be infringments of individual rights that
+would lead to quarrels and fights, but the Hindoo is slow to anger, and,
+like the Japanese, he has great courtesy for his fellows. Hundreds
+bathed at the ghat while I watched them and no trouble ensued. Nothing
+could be more striking, nothing more Oriental than the picture of scores
+of bathers, in bright-hued garments, moving up and down these long
+flights of massive steps. In the background were a half-dozen temples,
+the most noteworthy of which is the red-domed temple of the Rajah of
+Amethi, whose beautiful palace overlooks this scene. Near the water is a
+curious leaning temple, whose foundations were evidently unsettled by
+the severe earthquake which destroyed several temples farther down the
+river.
+
+The busiest men on these bathing ghats are the Hindoo priests, who reap
+a harvest from the hundreds of pilgrims who visit the ghats during the
+day. These priests cannot be escaped by the poorest Hindoo. They levy
+toll from every one who descends these long flights of stairs. One
+fellow I watched as he sat under his great umbrella. He had his sacred
+books spread before him, but he was given no leisure for reading them,
+as a constant stream of clients passed before him. Some of these were
+regular daily visitors from Benares, who pay a certain rate every week
+or every month, according to their financial standing. Others were
+pilgrims who, in their enthusiasm over the sacred Ganges (which they had
+traveled hundreds of miles to bathe in), were not careful in regard to
+their fees. Others were mourning relatives who applied for prayers for
+the corpse which they had brought to the waterside, and still others
+demanded hurried prayers for the dying, whose last breath would be drawn
+by the bank of the sacred river. Incidentally the priests sold charms
+and amulets guaranteed to bring good fortune. Most of the payments were
+in copper pice, four of which make one of our cents, but many of these
+priests had great heaps of this coin in front of them, showing that
+though India may be suffering from a bad harvest the faker may always
+feed on the fat of the land.
+
+The spectacle, however, which stamps Benares upon the memory is the
+burning of the dead at a ghat by the Ganges. This ghat is reserved
+exclusively for the cremation of Hindoo dead. No Mussulman can use it.
+It was about eight o'clock in the morning when my boat reached this
+burning ghat. Already one body had been placed on a funeral pyre of
+wood. The guide said this body was that of a poor man who had no
+relatives or friends, as the place where the relatives sit until the
+cremation is complete was empty. Soon, however, two men came rushing
+down the stone steps with a corpse strapped to a bamboo stretcher. The
+body was that of a woman, dressed in red garments, which signified that
+she was a married woman. Unmarried women are arrayed in yellow and other
+colors, while men must be content with white. The stretcher-bearers
+placed their burden with its feet in the Ganges and then went in search
+of wood which is purchased from a dealer. Soon they had a supply, which
+they piled up in the form of a bier, and on this they placed the woman's
+corpse. Then one of the men, who, the guide said, was the dead woman's
+husband, with tears streaming from his eyes, bore some of the water of
+the Ganges to the bier, exposed the face of the dead and poured the
+sacred water upon her mouth and her eyes. Then while his companion piled
+wood above the body the husband sought the low-caste Hindoos who sell
+fire for burning the body. He soon returned with several large bundles
+of coarse straw, one of which was smoking. Seven times the husband
+passed around the bier with the smoking straw before he applied the
+flame to the wood. The fire licked greedily at the wood, and soon the
+flames had reached the body. Then the husband and his friend repaired to
+a stand near by, from which they watched the cremation.
+
+Meanwhile two other bodies had been rushed down to the water's edge. One
+was evidently that of a wealthy woman, dressed in yellow silk and borne
+by two richly garbed attendants. The other was that of an old man,
+attended by his son. The latter was very speedy in securing wood and in
+building a funeral pyre. Soon the old man's corpse was stretched on the
+bier and the son was applying the torch. He was a good-looking young
+fellow, dressed in the clean, white garments of mourning and freshly
+shaved for the funeral ceremonies. While he was burning the body of his
+father another corpse of a man was rushed down to the river's edge and
+placed upon a bier. This body was fearfully emaciated, and when the two
+attendants raised it in its white shroud, one arm that hung down limp
+was not larger than that of a healthy five-year-old boy, while the legs
+were mere skin and bones. It was an ugly sight to see the Ganges water
+poured over the face of this corpse, which was set in a ghastly grin
+with wide-open eyes. The man had evidently died while he was being
+hurried to the burning ghat, as the Hindoos believe that it is evil for
+one to die in the house. Hence most of the corpses have staring eyes, as
+they breathed their last on the way to the river.
+
+No solemnity marks this cremation by the river's edge. The relatives who
+bring down the body haggle over the price of the wood and try to cheapen
+the sum demanded by the low-caste man for fire for the burning. The
+greed of the priest who performs the last rite and who prepares the
+relatives for the cremation is an unlovely sight. All about the burning
+ghat where the poor dead are being reduced to ashes hundreds are bathing
+or washing their clothes. The spectacle that so profoundly impresses a
+stranger is to them so common as to excite no interest.
+
+
+LUCKNOW AND CAWNPORE, CITIES OF THE MUTINY
+
+Lucknow and Cawnpore are the two cities of India that are most closely
+associated in the minds of most readers with the great mutiny. The one
+recalls the most heroic defense in the history of any country; the other
+recalls the most piteous tragedy in the long record of suffering and
+death scored against the Sepoys. The British government in both of these
+cities has raised memorials to the men who gave their lives in defending
+them and, though the art is inferior in both, the story is so full of
+genuine courage, loyalty, devotion and self-sacrifice that it will
+always find eager readers. So the pilgrims to these shrines of the
+mutiny cannot fail to be touched by the relics of the men and women who
+showed heroism of the highest order. When one goes through the rooms in
+the ruined Residency at Lucknow he feels again the thrill with which he
+first read of the splendid defense made by Sir Henry Lawrence and of the
+Scotch girl who declared she heard the pipes of the Campbells a day
+before they actually broke on the ears of the beleaguered garrison. And
+when one stands in front of the site of the old well at Cawnpore, into
+which the bleeding bodies of the butchered women and children of the
+garrison were thrown, the tears come to his eyes over the terrible fate
+of these poor victims of the cruelty of Nana Sahib. The sight of these
+Indian cities also makes one appreciate more fully the tremendous odds
+against which this mere handful of English men and women contended.
+
+Lucknow is the fifth city in size in the Indian Empire. It is reached by
+a six hours' ride from Benares which is interesting, as the railroad
+runs through a good farming country, in which many of the original trees
+have been left. Lucknow at the outbreak of the mutiny was fortunate in
+the possession of one of the ablest army commanders in the Indian
+service. Sir Henry Lawrence, when he saw that mutiny was imminent,
+gathered a large supply of stores and ammunition in the Residency at
+Lucknow. When the siege began Lawrence found himself in a well-fortified
+place, with large supplies. About one thousand refugees were in the
+Residency and the safety of these people was due largely to the massive
+walls of the building and to the skill and courage with which the
+defense was handled. In reading the story of this siege of five months,
+from June to November, it seems incredible that a small garrison could
+withstand so constant a bombardment of heavy guns and so harassing a
+fire of small arms; but when you go through the Residency the reason is
+obvious. Here are the ruins of a building erected by an old Arab chief
+during the Mohammedan rule in Lucknow. The walls are from three to five
+feet in thickness, of a kind of flat, red brick like the modern tile.
+When laid up well in good mortar such walls are as solid as though built
+of stone. What added to the safety of the building was the great
+underground apartments, built originally for summer quarters for the old
+Moslem's harem, but used during the siege as a retreat for the women and
+children. So well protected were these rooms that only one shell ever
+penetrated them and this shot did no damage. The building reveals
+traces of the heavy fire to which it was subjected, but in no case were
+the walls broken down.
+
+The story of the siege of Lucknow has been told by poets and prose
+writers for over a half century, but the theme is still full of
+interest. Tennyson dealt with it in a ballad that is full of fire, each
+verse ending with the spirited refrain:
+
+    And ever upon the topmost roof the banner of England blew.
+
+All that it is necessary to do here is to refresh the reader's memory
+with the salient events. The besieged were admirably handled by
+competent officers and they beat off repeated attacks by the mutineers
+(who outnumbered them more than one hundred to one). Lawrence was
+fatally wounded on July the second and died two days later. In September
+General Havelock, after desperate fighting, made his way into Lucknow,
+but his force was so small that only fifteen hundred men were added to
+the garrison. It was not until November the seventeenth that the
+garrison was finally relieved by the union of forces under Havelock and
+Outram and Sir Colin Campbell. Never in the history of warfare has a
+garrison had to endure greater hardships than that of Lucknow. Incessant
+attacks by night and day kept the small force worn out by constant guard
+duty and, to add to their miseries, intense heat was made more merciless
+by swarms of flies. When one bears in mind that the Indian summer brings
+heat of from one hundred and ten to one hundred and forty degrees it may
+be seen how great was the courage of the garrison that could fight
+bravely and cheerfully under such heavy odds. The memorial tablets at
+Lucknow, Delhi, Cawnpore and other places bear witness to this heroism
+of the British soldier during the mutiny, but you do not fully
+appreciate this splendid courage until you see the country and feel the
+power of its sun.
+
+Cawnpore, which is only three hours' ride from Lucknow, is another city
+of India that recalls the saddest tragedy of the mutiny. Here it was
+that bad judgment of the general in charge led to great suffering and
+the final butchery of all except a few of the residents. Sir Hugh
+Wheeler, a veteran officer, wisely doubted the fidelity of the Sepoys
+and decided to establish a place where he could store supplies and
+assure a safe asylum for the women and children; but, instead of
+selecting the magazine, which was on the river and had strong walls, he
+actually went down two miles in a level plain and threw up earth
+entrenchments. This he did because he said he feared to excite the
+suspicion of the Sepoys and thus incite them to revolt. The result was
+disastrous, for the earth walls that he raised furnished poor protection
+and the place was raked by the native artillery and small arms from
+every point of the compass. A worse place to defend could not have been
+chosen, but the twenty officers and two hundred men held it against a
+horde of mutinous natives for twenty days of blazing heat. The only
+water for the little garrison was obtained under severe fire of the
+enemy from a well sixty feet deep.
+
+Finally, when the supply of provisions was nearly exhausted, General
+Wheeler agreed to surrender to the Nana Sahib, provided the men were
+allowed to carry arms and ammunition and boats were furnished for safe
+conduct down the river. Of course, the Nana accepted these terms, but it
+seems incredible that a veteran army officer should have trusted the
+lives of women and children to Sepoys who were as cruel as our own
+Apaches. The little garrison, with the wounded, the women and the
+children, was escorted down to the river and placed on barges. But when
+the order was given to push off, the treacherous Sepoys grounded the
+boats in the mud and the gunners of Nana Sahib opened fire on the
+barges. The grape shot set fire to the matting of the barges and many of
+the wounded were smothered. One boat escaped down the river, but the
+survivors were captured after several days of hardship, the men murdered
+and the women and children brought back to Cawnpore. The men in the
+other boats who survived were shot, but one hundred and twenty-five
+women and children were returned to Cawnpore as prisoners. They spent
+seven anxious days and then when Nana Sahib saw he could not hold
+Cawnpore any longer he ordered the Sepoys to shoot the English women and
+children. To the credit of these mutineers they refused to obey orders
+and fired into the ceiling of the wretched rooms where the prisoners
+were lodged. Then Nana Sahib sent for five butchers and these men, with
+their long knives, murdered the helpless victims of this monster of
+cruelty. On the following morning the bodies of dead and dying were cast
+into the well at Cawnpore. On the site of this well has been raised a
+costly memorial surmounted by a marble angel of the resurrection. The
+design is not impressive, but no one can see it without pity for the
+unfortunates who were delivered into the hands of the most atrocious
+character of modern times. The Memorial Church at Cawnpore, which cost
+one hundred thousand dollars, contains a series of tablets to those who
+fell in the mutiny.
+
+
+THE TAJ MAHAL, THE WORLD'S LOVELIEST BUILDING
+
+Agra is chiefly noteworthy for the Taj Mahal, which is acknowledged to
+be the most beautiful building in the world; though the city would be
+worthy of a visit because of the many splendid mosques and palaces built
+by the great Mogul emperors and others. In fact, Agra was the capital of
+the Mohammedan empire in north India until Aurungzeb moved it
+permanently to Delhi; hence the city is rich in specimens of the best
+Moslem work in forts, palaces, mosques and tombs.
+
+Agra has about two hundred thousand population. It is on the Jumna river
+and is almost equally distant from Calcutta and Bombay, eight hundred
+and forty-two miles from the former and eight hundred and forty-nine
+miles from the latter. It will impress any traveler by its cleanliness
+when compared with Calcutta, Benares or Lucknow. The land seems to be
+more fertile than that around any of these three cities and the standard
+of living higher. The shops are clean and bright and a specialty is made
+of gold and silver embroidery and imitation of the old Mohammedan inlay
+work in marble. Most of the fine Moslem architecture is found inside the
+ancient fort, which, with its massive wall, is in a good state of
+preservation.
+
+The Taj Mahal may be seen many times without losing any of its charm. It
+is reached by a short drive from the city and its beautiful dome and
+minarets may be seen from many parts of Agra and its suburbs. This tomb,
+built of white marble, was erected by Shah Jehan, the chief builder
+among the Mogul Emperors of India, in memory of his favorite wife,
+Arjmand Banu. She married Shah Jehan in 1615 and died fourteen years
+after, as she was giving birth to her eighth child. Shah Jehan, who had
+already built many fine palaces and mosques, determined to perpetuate
+her memory for all time by erecting the finest tomb in the world. So he
+planned the Taj, which required twenty-two years and twenty million
+dollars to build; but so well was the work done that nearly three
+hundred years have left little trace on its walls or its splendid
+decorations.
+
+This Mogul despot, who knew many women, spent an imperial fortune in
+fashioning this noblest memorial to love ever built by the hand of man.
+Incidentally he probably sacrificed twenty thousand coolies, for he
+built the Taj by forced labor, the same kind that reared the pyramids
+and carved the sphinx. All the material was brought from great
+distances. The white marble came from Jeypore and was hauled in bullock
+carts or carried by elephants; the jasper came from the Punjab, the jade
+from China and the precious stones from many parts of Central Asia, from
+Thibet to Arabia.
+
+The Emperor summoned the best architects and workers in precious stones
+of his time and asked them for designs. It is evident that many hands
+united in the plans of the building, but history gives the credit for
+the main design to a Persian. An Italian architect lent aid in the
+ornamentation and three inlaid flowers are shown to-day as specimens of
+his work. The building itself is only a shadow of its former
+magnificence--for the many alien conquerors of India have despoiled in
+it in succession, taking away the solid silver gates, the diamonds,
+rubies, sapphires and other precious stones from the flower decorations,
+and even the gold and silver from the mosaic work. All the precious
+stones looted by vandal hands have been restored by imitations, which
+closely resemble the priceless originals. Restorations have also been
+made where the marble has been defaced or broken.
+
+The Taj stands in the midst of a great garden, laid out with so much
+skill that from any part of its many beautiful walks fine views may be
+had of the dome and the minarets. This garden is planted to many
+tropical trees and flowering shrubs whose foliage brings out in high
+relief the beauty of the flawless marble tomb. The main gateway of the
+garden, built of red sandstone, would be regarded as a splendid work of
+art were it not for the superior beauty of the tomb itself. The gate is
+inlaid in white marble with inscriptions from the Koran, and it is
+surmounted by twenty little marble cupolas.
+
+Once inside the gate the beauty and the majesty of the Taj strike one
+like a physical blow. Simple as is the design, so perfectly has it been
+wrought out that the building gives the impression of the last word in
+delicate and unique ornamentation. The white marble base on which the
+building rests is three hundred and thirteen feet square and rises
+eighteen feet from the ground. The tomb itself is one hundred and
+eighty-six feet square, with a dome that rises two hundred and twenty
+feet above the base. At each corner of the base is a graceful minaret of
+white marble one hundred and thirty-seven feet high. Although no color
+is used on the exterior, the decoration is so rich as to prevent all
+monotony.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Front View of the Taj
+    Mahal, Agra. This
+      Unusual View
+     Was Taken by Mr.
+   Isaac O. Upham From
+  the Level of the Main
+   Approach. It Throws
+   Into Strong Relief
+    the Two Lines of
+   Cypresses and Gives
+  a Perfect Reproduction
+    of the Taj in the
+         Winter]
+
+In every detail the Taj satisfies the eye, with the single exception of
+the work on the minarets. The squares of marble that cover these
+minarets are laid in dark-colored mortar which brings out strongly each
+stone. It would have lent more softness to these minarets had the
+individual stones not been revealed, an effect that could have been
+secured by using white mortar. When the shades of evening fall these
+minarets are far more beautiful than by day, as they are softened by the
+wiping out of the lines about the stones. Under the strong light of the
+noonday sun the marble that covers the dome shows various shades ranging
+from light gray to pearly white, but by the soft evening light all these
+colors are merged and the dome looks like a huge soap bubble resting
+light as foam on the body of the tomb.
+
+A front photograph of the Taj gives a good idea of its effect. Standing
+at the portal of the main entrance one gets the superb effect of the
+marble pathway that borders the two canals in which the building is
+mirrored. Midway across this pathway is a broad, raised marble platform,
+with a central fountain, from which the best view of the building may be
+secured. The path on each side from this platform to the main stairway
+is bordered by a row of cypress and back of these are great mango trees
+at least twenty feet high. These should be removed and smaller trees
+substituted, as they interfere seriously with a perfect view of the
+tomb.
+
+From this platform the eye rests on the Taj with a sense of perfect
+satisfaction that is given by no other building I have ever seen. The
+very simplicity of the design aids in this effect. It seems well nigh
+impossible that a mere tomb of white marble should convey so vivid an
+impression of completeness and majesty, yet at the same time that every
+detail should suggest lightness and delicacy. The little cupolas below
+the dome as well as the pinnacles of the minarets add to this effect of
+airy grace.
+
+When one ascends the steps to the main door he begins to perceive the
+secret of this effect on the senses. Everything is planned for harmony
+and proportion. The pointed arch, of which all Moslem architects were
+enamored, is shown in the main doorway and in the principal windows of
+the front. This doorway rises almost to the full height of the tomb and
+on each side are recessed windows, with beautifully pointed tops.
+
+All the angles and spandrels of the building are inlaid with precious
+stones as well as with texts from the Koran. In the center of the
+building is an octagonal chamber, twenty-four feet on each side, with
+various rooms around it devoted to the imperial tombs. A dome,
+fifty-eight feet in diameter, rises to a height of eighty feet, beneath
+which, inclosed by a trellis-work screen of white marble, are the tombs
+of the Favorite of the Palace and of the great Emperor. The Emperor,
+with a touch of the Oriental despot, has made his tomb a little larger
+than that of the woman whom he honored in this unique fashion. The
+delicate tracery in marble, so characteristic of Mogul work of the
+sixteenth century, is seen here at its best, as well as the inlays of
+the lotus and other flowers in sapphire, turquoise and other stones. The
+effect is highly decorative and at the same time chaste and subdued. A
+feature which impresses every visitor is the remarkable trellis work in
+marble. A solid slab of marble, about six feet by four and about two
+inches in thickness, is used as a panel. This is cut out into many
+designs that remind one of fine old lace. These panels abound in every
+important room of the Taj.
+
+The Taj has suffered little serious damage from the conquerors who
+successively despoiled it of its wealth of precious stones. The places
+of these jewels have been supplied with imitations which are almost as
+effective as the originals. In a few instances the marble has been
+chipped or broken, but, through the generosity of Lord Curzon, these
+blemishes have been removed, and the whole structure exists to-day
+almost as it did three hundred years ago when Akbar's grandson completed
+it and found it good.
+
+The Taj should be seen by day and again at nightfall. In the full glare
+of the brilliant Indian sun the dome and the minarets stand out with
+extraordinary clearness, yet the lightness and buoyancy of the dome is
+not injured by the fierce light. Seen at sundown the Taj is at its best.
+All the lines are softened; the minarets and the perfect dome give an
+appearance of lightness and grace not of this world; they suggest the
+cloud-capped towers and gorgeous palaces of the poet's vision. As the
+afterglow fades, the Taj takes on an air of mystery and aloofness; the
+perfect lines melt into one another and the whole structure is blurred
+as though it were seen in a dream. Then one bids adieu to the world's
+perfect building, thankful that he has been given the opportunity to
+enjoy the greatest marvel of architecture, which leaves on the mind the
+same impression left by splendid music or the notes of a great singer.
+Words are poor to describe things like the Taj, which become our
+cherished possessions and may be recalled to cheer hours of despondency
+or grief.
+
+
+DELHI AND ITS ANCIENT MOHAMMEDAN RUINS
+
+Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital of India, is an interesting city, not
+only because of its present-day life but because it contains so many
+memorials of the Mohammedan conquest of the country. The ancient Moslem
+emperors were men who did things. Above all else they were builders, who
+constructed tombs, palaces and mosques that have survived for nearly
+four hundred years. They builded for all time, rearing massive walls of
+masonry that the most powerful British guns during the mutiny were
+unable to batter down. They built their own tombs in such enduring
+fashion that we may look upon them to-day as they were when these
+despots completed them. Akbar, Shah Jehan, Humayan and Aurungzeb each
+erected scores of buildings that have survived the ravages of time and
+the more destructive work of greedy mercenaries in time of war. In and
+around Delhi are scores of these tombs in various stages of decay. Those
+which have been cared for are splendid specimens of the best
+architecture of the sixteenth century.
+
+Indian brick is the cheapest building material in the world. The Indian
+brick of to-day looks very much like the cheapest brick used in American
+cities to fill in the inside of walls; but the brick made in the time of
+Shah Jehan and Humayan and used by them was a flat tile brick, hard as
+stone, set in mortar that has resisted the elements for over three
+hundred years. When the roofs of these Moslem tombs and palaces fell in,
+then the work of disintegration followed rapidly. The plaster scaled off
+the front and sides, and the rows on rows of brick were exposed; but it
+is astonishing that these massive walls have not crumbled to dust in all
+these years. In most cases the imposing arched doorways of red sandstone
+have survived. These doorways, beautifully arched, may be seen on both
+sides of the road leading out of Delhi to the old city, eleven miles
+distant, which was the capital of the Mogul emperors until Aurungzeb
+moved it to Delhi. In a radius of fifteen miles from Delhi tombs and
+palaces that cost hundreds of millions of rupees were built by these
+Moslem despots and their viceroys. Most of them are now in ruins, but
+from the top of the Kutab Minar one may count a score of tombs with
+their domes and cupolas still intact. Into these tombs was poured much
+of the treasure wrung from the poverty-stricken Hindoo tillers of the
+soil.
+
+Few sights in this world are more impressive than this birdseye view of
+the remains of the Mogul emperors who ruled northern India for over
+three centuries. In one of the poorest and the most densely populated
+countries of the world these despots reared marvels of architecture
+which have amazed modern experts. They accomplished these wonders in
+stone mainly because, with power of life and death, they were able to
+impress thousands of coolies and force them to rear the walls of their
+palaces and tombs. Building materials were very cheap, so that most of
+the treasure expended by these rulers went into the elaborate
+ornamentation of walls and ceilings with precious stones and carved
+ivory and marble. No description that I have ever read gives any
+adequate idea of the number and the massiveness of these remains of
+bygone imperial splendor, and this magnificence is made more impressive
+by contrast with the squalid poverty of the common people--the tillers of
+the soil, the drawers of water, who live in wretched huts, with earthen
+floors, no windows and no comforts. These dwellings are crowded together
+in small villages; the family cow or goat occupies a part of the
+dwelling, a small fire gives warmth only to one standing directly over
+it, and the smoke pours out the open door or filters through holes in
+the thatched roof.
+
+As the native lived three hundred years ago so does he live to-day. He
+uses kerosene instead of the old nut or fish oil, but that is almost the
+only change. In the cultivation of the soil and in all kinds of
+manufacture the same methods are in use now as when Akbar wrested North
+India from its Hindoo rulers. The same crude bullock carts carry produce
+to Delhi, with wheels that have felloes a foot thick and only four
+spokes. Many of these wheels have no tires. In some cases camels supply
+the place of bullocks as beasts of burden, especially in the dry country
+north of Delhi. The coolie draws water from the wells for irrigation
+just as his ancestors did three centuries ago. He uses bullocks on an
+arastra that turns over a big wheel with a chain of buckets. On small
+farms this work is done by men. All the processes of irrigation are
+ancient and cumbersome and would not be tolerated for a day in any land
+where labor is valuable.
+
+Delhi is very rich in memorials of the Mogul conquerors. Near the Lahore
+gate is the palace, one of the noblest remains of the Mohammedan period.
+A vaulted arcade leads to the outer court, at one end of which is a
+splendid band gallery, with a dado of red sandstone, finely carved. On
+the farther side is the Dwan-i-'Am or Hall of Public Audience, with
+noble arches and columns, at the back of which, in a raised recess, the
+emperor sat on his peacock throne, formed of two peacocks, with bodies
+and wings of solid gold inlaid with rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Over
+it was a canopy of gold supported by twelve pillars, all richly
+ornamented. This magnificent work was taken away by Nadir Pasha. The
+palace contains many other beautiful rooms, among which may be mentioned
+the royal apartments, with a marble channel in the floor, through which
+rosewater flowed to the queen's dressing-room and bath.
+
+The most notable mosque in Delhi is the Jama Mashid, built of red
+sandstone and white marble. It has a noble entrance and a great
+quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, with a fountain
+in the center. In a pavilion in one corner are relics of Mohammed, shown
+with great apparent reverence to the skeptical tourist. Near by is the
+Kalar Masjid or Black Mosque, built in the style of the early Arabian
+architecture.
+
+Eleven miles from Delhi are many tombs of the Mogul emperors, including
+the Kutab Minar or great column of red sandstone, with a fine mosque
+near at hand. Kutab was a viceroy when he began this splendid column,
+two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, with a base diameter of
+forty-seven feet three inches. The first three stories are of red
+sandstone and the two upper stories are faced with white marble. The
+summit, which is reached by three hundred and seventy-nine steps, gives
+a superb view of the surrounding country, with its many fine Moslem
+tombs.
+
+On the way to the Kutab Minar a number of fine Mohammedan tombs are
+passed, chief of which is the tomb of Emperor Humayan, one of the
+greatest of the Moslem builders. Of all the buildings that I saw in
+India this approaches most closely in beauty the incomparable Taj Mahal.
+Of red sandstone, with white marble in relief, its windows are recessed
+and the lower doors filled in with stone and marble lattice work of
+great beauty. The tomb is an octagon and in the central chamber is the
+great emperor's cenotaph of plain white marble. Not far away are the
+shrines and tombs of many Mohammedan emperors and saints.
+
+Delhi saw some of the fiercest fighting during the mutiny. The
+rebellious natives drove the Europeans out of the city, slaughtering
+those who were unable to escape. Thousands of mutineers also flocked to
+Delhi from Lucknow, Cawnpore and other places. General Bernard, in
+command of the English troops that came from Simla, attacked the
+mutineers on June sixth and gained an important victory, as it gave the
+British possession of "The Ridge," a lofty outcropping of ancient rock,
+which was admirably designed for defense and for operations against the
+city. Troops were posted all along the Ridge and in Hindoo Rao's house,
+a massive building belonging to a loyal native. This building was the
+center of many fierce engagements, but it was not until September that
+enough troops were collected to make it safe to assault Delhi.
+Brigadier-General John Nicholson had arrived from the Punjab and urged
+immediate attack on the city. Nicholson was the greatest man the mutiny
+produced. Tall, magnetic, dominating, he enforced his will upon every
+one. Even Lord Roberts, who was then a young subaltern and not easily
+impressed by rank or achievement, records that he never spoke to
+Nicholson without feeling the man's enormous will power and energy.
+Finally, on September thirteenth, the British guns having made breaches
+in the city walls, two forces (one under Nicholson, the other under
+Colonel Herbert) stormed the place. The Kabul gate was soon taken, but
+the defense of the Lahore gate proved more stubborn. The soldiers
+wavered under the deadly fire, when Nicholson rushed forward to lead
+them. His great height made him a target and he fell, shot through the
+body. A whole week of severe fighting followed before every portion of
+Delhi was captured. Nicholson died three days after the British secured
+complete control of the city. His death was mourned as greatly as the
+death of Sir Henry Lawrence at Lucknow.
+
+The Kashmir, Kabul and Lahore gates at Delhi are interesting because
+they were the scenes of many acts of heroism during the mutiny. On the
+Ridge a massive but ugly stone memorial has been erected to those who
+fell in the mutiny. The position is fine but the monument, like all the
+other memorials of the mutiny, is not impressive because of its poor
+design. Other interesting objects which recall incidents in this great
+struggle against the Sepoys are suitably inscribed.
+
+
+SCENES IN BOMBAY WHEN THE KING ARRIVED
+
+The ancient city of Bombay, the gateway of India and the largest
+commercial metropolis of the empire, was in festival garb because of the
+visit of the King and Queen of England. Fully four hundred thousand
+people came in from the surrounding country to see their rulers from
+over the sea and to enjoy the novel spectacle of illuminated buildings,
+decorative arches, military processions and fireworks. Hence Bombay was
+seen at its best in its strange mixture of races and costumes. In this
+respect it is more Oriental and more picturesque than Singapore.
+
+The first thing that impresses a stranger is the number, size and beauty
+of the public buildings. The Town Hall looks not unlike many American
+city structures--as it is classic, with Doric pillars and an imposing
+flight of steps; but nearly all the other buildings are of Indian
+architecture, with cupolas and domes, recessed windows and massive,
+pointed gateways. They are built of a dark stone, and the walls (three
+and four feet in thickness) seem destined to last forever. The rooms are
+from sixteen to twenty feet in height; above the tall doors and windows
+are transoms; the floors are of mosaic or stone; everything about the
+buildings appears designed to endure. The streets are very wide and the
+sidewalks are arranged under colonnades in front of the buildings, so
+that one may walk an entire block without coming out into the fierce
+Indian sunshine.
+
+All the main streets converge into the Apollo Bunder, a splendid
+driveway like the Maidan in Calcutta. It sweeps around the sea wall and
+if any breeze is stirring in Bombay one may get it here at nightfall.
+From six o'clock to eight thirty or nine o'clock all Bombay turns out
+for a drive on the Apollo Bunder. The line of fine carriages and motor
+cars is continuous for miles, going out the Esplanade to Queen's road,
+which runs for five miles to Malabar head, the favorite residence place
+of the wealthy foreign colony. What will astonish any one accustomed to
+Calcutta and other East Indian cities is the large representation of
+Parsee families in this evening dress parade. Two-thirds of the finest
+equipages belong to the Parsees, who are very richly dressed in silks
+and adorned with fortunes in diamonds, rubies and other precious stones.
+Here and there may be distinguished rich Hindoos or Mohammedans out for
+an airing. The women of the latter sect are concealed behind the
+carriage covers, but the Hindoo and Parsee women show their faces, their
+jewelry and their beautiful costumes with evident pleasure. Nearly all
+these women wear fortunes in diamonds in their ears or in bracelets on
+their arms. In no dress parade in any other city have I noted so many
+large diamonds, rubies and emeralds as in this procession of carriages
+in Bombay.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     One of the Main
+    Avenues of Bombay.
+    This Broad Street
+    Leads to the City
+     Market. The View
+     Shows the Florid
+  Architecture of Public
+    Buildings and the
+    Variety of Native
+        Costumes]
+
+Another thing that impresses the stranger in Bombay is the sympathy and
+the good feeling that seems to exist between the leading Europeans of
+the city and the prominent natives. This is in great contrast to the
+exclusiveness that marks the Briton in other East Indian cities. Here
+the President and a majority of the members of the Municipal Council
+are Parsees; while a number of Hindoos and Mohammedans are represented.
+When the King and Queen of England were received, the address of welcome
+was read by the Parsee President of the Council, while a bouquet was
+presented to the Queen by the President's wife, dressed in her graceful
+sari or robe of ecru silk, edged with a black border, heavy with
+ornamental gold work. This mingling of the races in civic life is due to
+the domination of the Parsee element, which came over to Bombay from
+Persia three hundred years ago, when driven from their old homes by
+Moslem intolerance. Here these people, who strongly resemble the Jews in
+their fondness for trade and their skill in finance, have amassed
+imperial fortunes. The richest of these Parsee bankers and merchants,
+Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, left much of his great fortune to charity. He
+founded a university, schools and hospitals and his name figures on a
+dozen fine buildings. Other prominent Parsee families are the Sassoons
+and Jehangirs. Yet, despite their wealth and their association with
+Europeans, the Parsees have kept themselves unspotted from the world.
+They do not recognize any mingling of their blood with the foreigner. A
+Parsee who marries a European woman must accept virtual expatriation,
+while the wife (although she may bear him children) is never allowed any
+of the privileges of a native woman in this life and when she dies her
+body cannot be consigned to the Parsee burial place. She is always an
+alien and nothing that she can do is able to break down this racial wall
+that separates her from her husband's people. The marriage of Parsee
+women to foreigners is practically unknown. The Parsee wears a
+distinctive costume. The men dress in white linen or pongee trousers,
+with coat of dark woolen or alpaca; they like foreign shirts and
+collars, but their headgear is the same as that used by the refugees
+from Persia over three hundred years ago. One cap is of lacquered
+papier-mache in the form of a cow's hoof inverted. Another is a round
+cap of gray cloth, finely made, worn over a skull cap of velvet or
+embroidered cloth, which is worn indoors. The women wear the sari or
+robe, which consists of one piece of silk or brocade, with an
+embroidered band. This garment is draped around the body and brought up
+over the head, covering the right ear. They all wear shoes and
+stockings.
+
+The Parsees are all well educated and most of them possess unusual
+refinement. So strong is the pride of race among them that they do not
+tolerate any mendicancy among their own people. Their charitable
+associations care for the few Parsees who are unable to make a living,
+so that their paupers never make any claim upon the municipal government
+for aid. They also boast that none of their women may be found among the
+denizens of the red-light district. Most of the educated Parsees speak
+English, French and German, besides Gugerati (the native dialect) and
+most of them read and write English, Gugerati and Urdu, which is the
+written form of Hindustani. Yet the Parsees are genuine Orientals. They
+sit on chairs, but most of their houses are scantily furnished. They are
+remarkably fond of sweets, fruits and nuts. They seem insensible to the
+surroundings of their homes, many living in crowded streets and up many
+flights of stairs. In their homes all their treasures are kept in the
+family safe. If you are fortunate enough to be received in one of these
+Parsee homes you will be amazed at the wealth in jewelry and personal
+ornaments which are possessed even by families of modest fortune. A
+Parsee woman of this class will have invested five thousand dollars in
+jewelry, much of which she will wear on festive occasions.
+
+Many of the big shipping and cotton merchants of Bombay are Parsees and
+they also control much of the banking of the city. It was due largely to
+the liberality of the Parsees that the city of Bombay was able to
+present to the King a memorial in gold and silver that cost seventeen
+thousand rupees, or over five thousand five hundred dollars in American
+money. This reception to the King and Queen when they landed at Bombay
+on their way to Delhi Durbar was very typical of the life of the city.
+Remarkable preparations had been made; a series of arches spanned the
+principal streets, all designed in native style. At the end of the
+Apollo Bunder was erected a pretty, white pavilion that looked like a
+miniature Taj, while a splendid avenue, lined with pillars, led up to
+the great amphitheater, in front of which, under an ornate pavilion,
+were the golden thrones of the King and Queen. This amphitheater was
+reserved for all the European and native notables, as well as the
+Maharajahs and chiefs from the neighboring States.
+
+After the reception to the royal party came a parade through the
+principal streets and when this was concluded all restrictions were
+relaxed and the populace and the visitors from surrounding towns gave
+themselves up to an evening of enjoyment. The buildings were
+illuminated, some with white and others with red electric lights, while
+many large structures were lighted by little oil lamps, in a cup or
+glass. The main streets were filled with long lines of carriages,
+crowded with richly dressed natives and Europeans, although the natives
+outnumbered the foreigners by one hundred to one. Never in my life have
+I seen so many valuable jewels as on this night, when I roamed about
+the streets for two hours, enjoying this Oriental holiday. At times I
+would stop and sit on one of the stands and watch the crowd flow by in a
+steady stream. Walking by the side of a Parsee millionaire and his
+richly dressed family would pass a Hindoo woman of low caste, one of the
+street sweepers, in dirty rags, but loaded down on ankles and arms by
+heavy silver bangles and painted in the center of the forehead with her
+caste mark. She was followed by a poverty-stricken Mohammedan leading a
+little boy, stark naked, while a girl with brilliant cap held the boy's
+hand. A naked Tamil, with only a dirty loin cloth, brushed elbows with
+three Parsee girls, beautifully dressed. And so this purely democratic
+human tide flowed on for hours, rich and poor showing a childlike
+pleasure in the street decorations and the variegated crowd. And in the
+midst of all this turmoil native parties from out of town squatted on
+the deserted tiers of seats, ate their suppers with relish and then
+calmly composed themselves to sleep, wrapped in their robes, as though
+they were in the privacy of their own homes. It was a spectacle such as
+could be seen only in an Oriental city with a people who live in public
+with the placid unconsciousness of animals.
+
+
+RELIGION AND CUSTOMS OF THE BOMBAY PARSEES
+
+The Parsees of Bombay--a mere handful of exiles among millions of
+aliens--have so exerted their power as to change the life of a great
+city. Proscribed and persecuted, they have developed so powerfully their
+aptitude for commercial life that they represent the wealth of Bombay.
+Living up to the tenets of their creed, they have given far more
+liberally to charity and education than any other race. Some idea of the
+respect in which the Parsee is held may be gained from the fact that
+customs officers never search the baggage of one of these people; they
+take the Parsee's word that he has no dutiable goods. The commercial
+success and the high level of private life among the Parsees is due
+directly to their religion, which was founded by Zoroaster in ancient
+Persia three thousand years ago. As Max-Muller has well said, if Darius
+had overthrown Alexander of Greece, the modern world would probably have
+inherited the faith of Zoroaster, which does not differ in most of its
+essentials from the creed of Christ.
+
+The popular idea of a Parsee is that he worships the sun. This is a
+misconception, due probably to the fact that the Parsee when saying his
+prayers always faces the sun or, in default of this, prays before a
+sacred fire in his temples; but he does not worship the sun, nor any
+gods or idols. His temples are bare, only the sacred fire of sandalwood
+burning in one corner. The Parsee recognizes an overruling god,
+Ahura-Mazda, the creator of the universe; he believes that Nature with
+its remarkable laws could not have come into being without a great first
+cause. But he believes that the universe created by Ahura-Mazda was
+invaded by a spirit of evil, Angra-Mainyush, which invites men to wicked
+deeds, falsehood and ignorance. Over against this evil spirit is the
+good spirit, Spenta-Mainyush, which represents God and stands for truth,
+goodness and knowledge. The incarnation of the evil spirit is known as
+Aherman, who corresponds to the Christian devil.
+
+The whole Parsee creed is summed up in three words, which correspond to
+good thoughts, good words and good deeds. If one carries out in his life
+this creed, then his good thoughts, good words and good deeds will be
+his intercessors on the great bridge that leads the spirit from death to
+the gates of paradise. If his evil deeds and thoughts and words
+overbalance the good, then he goes straight down to the place of
+darkness and torment. If his good and evil deeds and thoughts exactly
+balance, then he passes into a kind of purgatory.
+
+Fire, water and earth are all sacred to the Parsee; but fire represents
+the principle of creation and hence is most sacred. To him fire is the
+most perfect symbol of deity because of its purity, brightness and
+incorruptibility. The sacred fire that burns constantly in the Parsee
+temples is fed with chips of sandalwood. Prayer with the Parsee is
+obligatory, but it need not be said in the fire temple; the Parsee may
+pray to the sun or moon, the mountains or the sea. His prayer is first
+repentance for any evil thoughts or deeds and then for strength to lead
+a life of righteousness, charity and good deeds.
+
+The most remarkable result of the Parsee religion is seen in the
+education of children. This is made a religious duty, and neglect of it
+entails terrible penalties--for the parents are responsible for the
+offenses of the badly-educated child, just as they share in the merit
+for good deeds performed by their children. It is the duty of a good
+Parsee not only to educate his own children but to do all in his power
+to help in general education. Hence the large benefactions that rich
+Parsees have made to found institutions for the education of the poor.
+Disobedience of children is one of the worst sins. The Parsees are also
+taught to observe sanitary laws, to bathe frequently, to take all
+measures to prevent the spread of contagion. Cleanliness is one of the
+chief virtues. To keep the earth pure the Parsee is enjoined to
+cultivate it. He is also admonished to drink sparingly of wine and not
+to sell it to any one who uses liquor to excess.
+
+The Parsee creed urges the believer to help the community in which he
+lives and to give freely to charity. Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, the
+richest Parsee Bombay has known, set aside a fund of four million seven
+hundred and forty-three thousand rupees for charity and benevolence
+among all the people of his city, regardless of race or creed. The
+Parsee gives liberally to charity on the occasion of weddings or of
+deaths. The charity includes relieving the poor, helping a man to marry
+and aiding poor children to secure an education. The influence of the
+Parsee religion upon the literature and life of the people is very
+marked. There is no room for atheism, agnosticism or materialism. Faith
+in the existence of God and in the immortality of the soul is the
+corner-stone of the creed, but the Parsee spends no money and no effort
+in proselyting others.
+
+Marriage is encouraged by the Parsee religion, because it encourages a
+virtuous and religious life. The marriage ceremony is peculiar. It is
+always performed in a large pavilion, whatever the wealth of the couple.
+In the case of the rich many invitations are issued and a fine wedding
+feast is spread. On the day set for the wedding, the bride and groom and
+the invited guests assemble in the pavilion. The bride as well as the
+groom is dressed in white. When the time comes for the ceremony the
+couple sit in chairs facing each other and a sheet is held up between
+them by friends, so that they cannot see each other. Then two priests
+begin intoning the marriage service. After several prayers a cord is
+wound around the two chairs seven times and the chairs are also bound
+together with a strip of cloth. More prayers and exhortations follow,
+both priests showering rice upon the couple. Finally the sheet is
+withdrawn, they and their chairs are placed side by side, each is given
+a cocoanut to hold that is bound to the other by a string, emblematic of
+the plenty that may bless the new home, and they are declared man and
+wife. Then they sign a document certifying that they have been united
+according to the Parsee ritual and witnesses sign their names.
+
+Far stranger than the wedding customs of the Parsees are their burial
+rites. They believe that neither fire, earth nor water must be polluted
+by contact with a dead body, so neither burial nor cremation is
+permitted. Instead, they expose their dead to vultures which strip the
+flesh from the bones within an hour. This occurs in conical places,
+called towers of silence, which are shut off from human gaze. The Bombay
+towers of silence are on Malabar head, a beautiful residence district
+overlooking the city. Here, in a fine garden planted to many varieties
+of trees and shrubs, are five circular towers, each about twenty feet
+high, made of brick, covered with plaster.
+
+While you are admiring the flowers and trees a funeral enters the gates.
+The body is carried by four professional bearers and is followed by two
+priests and the relatives and friends. All the mourners are clothed in
+white. They walk two by two, no matter how distant may be the house of
+death, each couple holding a handkerchief as a symbol of their union in
+sorrow. When the procession reaches the top of the hill the mourners
+diverge and take seats in the house of prayer, where the sacred fire is
+burning, or they seat themselves in the beautiful garden for meditation
+and prayer. The priests deliver the body to the two corpse bearers, who
+throw open the great iron door and enter with the body. The floor of the
+tower is of iron grating, arranged in three circles--the outer for men,
+the next for women and the inner for children. As the bearers lay the
+body down, they strip off the shroud. Then the iron door closes with a
+clang. This is the signal for a score of vultures to swoop down upon the
+body. No human eye can see this spectacle, but the imagination of the
+visitor pictures it in all its horror. Within a few minutes the gorged
+vultures begin flapping their way to the top of the tower, where they
+roost on the outer rim.
+
+The bones of the corpse are allowed to remain for several days exposed
+to the fierce sun. Then they are thrown into a great central well, where
+the climate soon converts them into dust. This is washed by the rains
+into underground wells. Charcoal in these wells serves to filter the
+rain water before it enters the ground. Thus do the Parsees preserve
+even the earth from contamination by the ashes of the dead. No expense
+is spared by the Parsees in the construction of these towers of
+silence, which are always placed on the tops of hills. According to the
+testimony of some of the ablest medical men of England and America, who
+have examined these burial grounds, the Parsee method of disposing of
+the dead is the most sanitary that has ever been devised. It avoids even
+the fumes that are given off in cremation of the dead. It is also cheap
+and absolutely democratic, as the bones of the rich and poor mingle at
+last in the well of the tower of silence.
+
+There is nothing offensive to European taste in the towers of silence
+except the vultures. These disgusting birds, like the Indian crow, are
+protected because they are admirable scavengers. The Parsees see nothing
+offensive in exposing their dead to these birds nor apparently does it
+shock them that alien hands should bare the bodies of their beloved
+dead; but to a foreigner both these aspects of Parsee burial are
+repellant and no argument has any weight to counteract this sentiment.
+
+Many sensational accounts of these Parsee burial rites have been
+printed. Nearly every writer lays stress on the fact that pieces of the
+dead bodies are dropped by the vultures within the grounds or in the
+streets outside. This is an absurdity, as the vulture never rises on the
+wing with any carrion--he eats it on the spot and he will not leave
+until he is gorged to repletion. An effort was made several years ago to
+remove these towers of silence on Malabar hill because of complaints
+that fragments of corpses were found in the neighborhood. When two
+competent medical experts investigated the matter they reported that
+there was no foundation for the complaints. So the towers have remained
+and thousands of Parsees have been borne to them for the last rites of
+their creed.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLI
+
+          One of the Main Gates to Government
+  House, Calcutta. This Gate is of Beautiful Proportions
+        and Has a Fine Lion. Government House is
+          Situated in a Fine Park of Six Acres]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLII
+
+     A Street Scene in
+     Calcutta. The New
+   Building at the Right
+  Has a Staging of Bamboo.
+      On the Left is
+   the Burka Bazaar, One
+  of the Sights of India,
+     Each Dealer Having
+    a Small Shop of His
+     Own. The Goods Are
+    Classified As in An
+    American Department
+          Store]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIII
+
+          The Great Burning Ghat at Benares.
+  Here Are Four Funeral Pyres Arranged for Burning, the
+    Heads of the Corpses May Be Detected Among the
+      Wood. The Pyre in the Middle Foreground is
+     Partly Burned. Relatives Watch the Cremation
+                From the Temple Above]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIV
+
+   View of the Bathing
+  Ghats at Benares. Here
+   May Be Seen Natives
+    Bathing in Mother
+   Ganges, While Above
+     Are the Line of
+  Splendid Palaces and
+  Temples Built by the
+    Maharaja Princes]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLV
+
+      A Holy Man of
+    Benares Under His
+    Umbrella. Each of
+  the Fakers at Benares
+  Has His Own Clientage,
+        But No One
+      Bathes Without
+   Yielding Tribute to
+      Some Holy Man]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVI
+
+     The Residency at
+    Lucknow. This, the
+     Most Impressive
+   Relic of the British
+     Mutiny In India,
+      Is Now Only a
+  Beautiful Ruin, But it
+    Recalls the Heroic
+    Defense Made By a
+    Handful of English
+     Against Hundreds
+   Of Natives. In Front
+  Is a Memorial Erected
+    by Lord Northbrook
+     to Loyal Native
+        Soldiers]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVII
+
+        Tomb of
+    Itmad-ul-Daulet
+     at Agra. This
+    Tomb Was Erected
+     in Honor of the
+  Prime Minister of the
+  Emperor Jahangir. It
+    Is of Carved and
+    Inlaid Marble and
+   Overlooks the Jumna
+         River]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVIII
+
+    The Mutiny Memorial
+     at Cawnpore. This
+    Memorial Was Erected
+     Over the Well Into
+     Which Were Thrown
+     the Bodies of One
+  Hundred and Twenty-Five
+     English Women and
+    Children, Butchered
+      By Order of the
+        Nana Sahib]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIX
+
+    Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra.
+  This View Gives a Good Idea of the Wonderful Work
+    in Marble Carving and the Inlaying of Precious
+       Stones, Which Makes This Little Pavilion
+                 a Rival of the Taj]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE L
+
+   The Jasmine Tower In
+    Agra Fort. This Is
+  a Marble Pavilion, the
+     Home of the Chief
+   Sultana, Overlooking
+   the Jumna River. The
+  Lattice Work Decoration
+  In Marble Is Remarkably
+        Beautiful]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LI
+
+  Snap-shot of a Jain
+  Family at Agra. Mr.
+    Upham's Camera
+  Caught This Woman
+  as She Peeked From
+  Behind the Curtain
+   of the Ekka, or
+     Native Cart]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LII
+
+    The Fort at Agra
+   Which Encloses Many
+   Palaces. This Fort
+  Has a Circuit of Over
+    a Mile, With Two
+    Octagonal Towers
+   of Red Sandstone.
+  Enclosed are Mosques
+    and Palaces Which
+    Rival the Taj In
+  Beauty of Design and
+       Richness of
+     Ornamentation]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIII
+
+    Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi.
+  The Arch Formed Part of a Mosque built by Kutab, a Viceroy,
+    in 1193 A. D. The Pillar Stood in the Mosque and is of
+      Wrought Iron, Twenty-three Feet High. The Monument
+           is Two Hundred and Thirty-eight Feet High
+           With Three Hundred and Seventy-nine Steps]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIV
+
+     Shah Jehan's Heaven
+       on Earth, Delhi.
+     The Diwan-i-Khas, or
+        Hall of Private
+      Audience, Is One of
+        the Most Richly
+    Decorated Buildings In
+      India. The Ceiling
+    Was Originally Silver.
+      Over the Two Outer
+     Arches Is the Persian
+         Inscription:
+     "If Heaven can be on
+    the face of the earth,
+  It is this, oh! it is this,
+       oh! it is this"]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LV
+
+  Street View In Delhi,
+      With the Juma
+   Mashid. This Shows
+   the Variety of Life
+  In Delhi Streets. The
+  Juma Mashid Is One of
+    the Finest of the
+       Mohammedan
+        Mosques]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVI
+
+     A Parsee Tower of
+  Silence at Bombay. This
+     Shows One of the
+   Unique Burial Places
+     at Malabar Head,
+     Where Dead Bodies
+   Are Exposed. Vultures
+   Strip the Flesh From
+      the Bones In a
+       Few Minutes]
+
+
+
+
+  EGYPT, THE HOME
+  OF HIEROGLYPHS, TOMBS
+  AND MUMMIES
+
+
+PICTURESQUE ORIENTAL LIFE AS SEEN IN CAIRO
+
+The first impression of Cairo is bewildering. None of the Oriental
+cities east of Port Said is at all like it in appearance or in street
+life. The color, the life, the picturesqueness, the noises, all these
+are distinctive. Kyoto, Manila, Hongkong, Singapore, Rangoon, Calcutta,
+Bombay and Colombo--each has marked traits that differentiate it from
+all other cities, but several have marked likenesses. Cairo differs from
+all these in having no traits in common with any of them. It stands
+alone as the most kaleidoscopic of cities, the most bizarre in its
+mingling of the Orient and the Occident.
+
+Ismail Pasha, who loved to ape the customs of the foreigner, made a
+deliberate attempt to convert Cairo into a second Paris, by cutting
+great avenues through the narrow, squalid streets of the old city, but
+Ismail simply transformed a certain quarter of the place and spoiled its
+native character. What he could not do, fortunately, was to rob the
+Egyptian of his picturesqueness or make the chief city of Egypt other
+than a great collection of Oriental bazars and outdoor coffee shops, as
+full of the spirit of the East as the camel or the Bedouin of the
+desert.
+
+The ride from Port Said to Cairo on the train, which consumes four
+hours, is interesting mainly as a revelation of what the Nile means to
+these people, who without its life-giving water would be unable to grow
+enough to live on. With abundant irrigation this Nile delta is one of
+the garden spots of the earth.
+
+The villages that we pass remind one somewhat of old Indian villages on
+the fringe of the desert in California and Arizona--the same walls of
+sun-baked adobe; the roofs of any refuse from tree pruning; the goats
+and chickens on terms of intimacy with the single living-room. But the
+people are not of the Western world. Dressed in voluminous black or blue
+cotton robes, which are pulled up over their heads to protect them from
+the keen wind of winter, they belong to the land as absolutely as the
+tawny, dust-colored camel. The dress of the women appears to differ very
+little from that of the men, but always the women gather a loose fold of
+their dress and bring it over the head, thus partially concealing the
+face. Men, women and children, all in bare feet, squat in the sand or
+sit hunched up against the sunny side of their houses. Beyond any other
+Orientals I have seen, these Egyptians have the capacity for unlimited
+loafing under circumstances that would drive an American insane in a few
+hours. Flies swarm over them; passing donkeys or camels powder them with
+dust; the fierce sun beats down on their heads; but all these things
+they accept philosophically as an inevitable part of life, as something
+decreed by fate which it would be useless and senseless to change.
+
+The first walk down the Street of the Camel in Cairo is one not soon
+forgotten. Before you are clear of the hotel steps an Arab in a sweater
+and loose skirt, something like the Malay sarong, rushes up and shouts:
+"The latest New York Herald; just came this morning!" Although you tell
+him "no" and shake your head, he follows you for half a block. Meanwhile
+you are badgered by dealers in scarabs, beads, stamps, postal cards,
+silver shawls and various curios, who dog your heels, and, when you
+finally lose your temper, retaliate by shouting: "Yankee!" through their
+noses. These street peddlers are wonderfully keen judges of nationality
+and they manage to make life a burden to the American tourist by their
+unwearied and smiling persistence. This is due in great part to the
+foolish liberality of American travelers, who are inclined to accept the
+first price offered, although with an Egyptian or an Arab this is
+usually twice or three times what he finally agrees to take.
+
+Custom and habit probably blunt one's sensibilities in time, but this
+constant annoyance by peddlers detracts much from the pleasure of any
+stroll through Cairo streets. To the new arrival everything is novel and
+attractive. The main avenues are wide, well paved and lined with
+spacious sidewalks, but here the European touch ends. After passing some
+fine shops, their windows filled with costly goods from all parts of
+Egypt and the Soudan, one comes upon one of the great cafes that form a
+distinctive feature of Cairo street life. Here the sidewalk is half
+filled with small tables, about which are grouped Egyptians and
+foreigners drinking the sweet Turkish coffee that is served here at all
+hours of the day.
+
+Many of these Egyptians are in European dress, their swarthy faces and
+the red fez alone showing their nationality. The young men are
+remarkably handsome, with fine, regular features, large, brilliant black
+eyes and straight, heavy eyebrows that frequently meet over the nose.
+Their faces beam with good nature and they evidently regard the frequent
+enjoyment of coffee and cigarettes as among the real pleasures of life.
+But the older men all show traces of this life of ease and
+self-indulgence. It is seldom that one sees a man beyond fifty with a
+strong face. The Egyptian over forty loses his fine figure, he lays on
+abundant flesh, his jowl is heavy and his whole face suggests satiety
+and the loss of that pleasure in mere existence that makes the youth so
+attractive.
+
+Walking down this main artery of Cairo life one sees on the left a large
+park surrounded by a high iron fence. This is the Esbekiyeh Gardens,
+which cover twenty acres, and are planted to many choice trees and
+shrubs. They contain cafes, a restaurant and a theater, and on several
+evenings in the week military and Egyptian bands alternate in playing
+foreign music. Beyond the gardens is an imposing opera house, with a
+small square in front, ornamented with an impressive equestrian statue
+of old Ibrahim Pasha, one of the few good fighters that Egypt has
+produced. From the opera house radiate many streets, some leading to the
+new Europeanized quarters, with noble residences and great apartment
+houses; others taking one directly to the bazars and narrow streets that
+give a good idea of Cairo as it existed before the foreigner came to
+change its life.
+
+Although the modern tram car clangs its way through these native
+streets, it is about the only foreign touch that can be seen. Everything
+else is distinctively Oriental. It is difficult to give any adequate
+idea of the narrowness of these streets or of the amount of life that is
+crowded into them. As in many cities of India, all the work of the shops
+goes on in plain view from the street. The shops themselves are mere
+cubicles, from eight to ten feet wide and seldom more than from six to
+eight feet deep. In certain streets the makers of shoes and slippers are
+massed in solid rows; then come the workers in brass and metals; then
+the jewelers, and following these may be dealers in shawls and in curios
+of various kinds. The native shopkeeper sits cross-legged amid his
+stock and, although he shows great keenness in getting you to examine
+his wares, he never reveals any haste in closing a bargain.
+
+Shopping in this native quarter and in the great Muski bazar that
+adjoins it is a constant source of amusement to the foreign woman who
+has a fondness for bargaining. These Arabs and Egyptians never expect
+one to give more than half what is demanded, except in the case of a few
+large shops in which the price is marked. If one of the silver shawls
+made at Assiut attracts a lady's attention and the polite shopkeeper
+demands five pounds sterling, she may safely offer him two pounds, and
+then, after haggling for a half hour, she will probably become the
+possessor of the shawl for two pounds ten shillings. Of one thing the
+traveler may be sure: he will never get any article from an Egyptian on
+which the shopkeeper cannot make a small profit.
+
+The Muski bazar is about a mile long and, although many European shops
+line it, the street still retains its Oriental attractiveness. Branching
+off from it are many narrow streets crowded with shops on both sides.
+Here may be seen the real life of Old Cairo, unhampered by any foreign
+innovations. The street is not more than twelve feet wide and above the
+first floor of the houses projecting latticed windows and open balconies
+reduce this width to three or four feet. Looking up one sees only a
+narrow slit of blue sky, against which are outlined several tiers of
+latticed windows. From these the harem women look down upon the street
+life in which they can have no real part. Peeping over the balconies may
+be seen black eyes that gleam above the yashmak or Oriental veil worn by
+the poorer classes. This veil covers the face almost to the eyes and it
+is held in place by a curious bit of bamboo that comes down over the
+forehead to the nose. The women of the better class do not wear this
+ugly yashmak, but content themselves with a white silk veil that is
+stretched across the lower part of the face, leaving the eyes and a part
+of the nose uncovered.
+
+No visit to Cairo is complete without a sight of Old Cairo, with its
+bazars. This is a quarter of the city that remains as it was in the days
+of the Caliphs. It is inhabited mainly by Copts and among the mean
+houses, built of sun-dried bricks, may be traced part of the old Roman
+wall that encircled this suburb, then known as Babylon. The houses are
+mainly of two or three stories, but the streets are so narrow that two
+people on opposite sides may easily join hands by leaning out of their
+windows. Many or the antique doors of oak, studded with great
+wrought-iron nails, still remain. Here is the old church of St. Sergius,
+which is said to antedate the Moslem conquest. In the ancient crypt the
+Virgin Mary and the Child are said to have sought shelter after their
+flight into Egypt.
+
+Near by is the island of Roda, which is noteworthy for the legend that
+here the infant Moses was found by Pharaoh's daughter. The visitor
+crosses a narrow arm of the Nile by a crude ferry and then walks through
+a quaint old garden to a wall that overlooks the Nile and the Pyramids.
+This wall marks the spot, according to local tradition, where Moses was
+taken from the bulrushes. The bulrushes are no more because they have
+been dredged out, but the place has the look of extreme age and the
+garden contains many curious trees.
+
+
+AMONG THE RUINS OF LUXOR AND KARNAK
+
+Luxor, the ancient city of Upper Egypt, which may be reached by a night
+train ride from Cairo, is the center of the most interesting ruins on
+the Nile. The city itself has been built around the splendid temple of
+Luxor, founded by Amenophis III, but altered and extensively rebuilt by
+Rameses II. From the Nile the colonnade of this temple is a beautiful
+spectacle, as the huge columns are in perfect preservation. Big tourist
+hotels make up most of the other buildings. The town boasts a good water
+front, which is generally lined in the winter season with tourist
+steamers. The view across the Nile is fine, as it includes the lofty
+Libyan range of mountains, in whose flanks were cut the tombs of the
+Pharaohs. Here, in two or three days, one may study the ruins of Luxor,
+Karnak and Thebes--names that the historian still conjures with.
+
+All the Egyptian temples were built on one general plan, like the
+mosques of North India, and Luxor does not differ from the others,
+except that it surpasses them all in the beauty of its colonnaded
+pillars. Seven double columns, about fifty-two feet high, with lotus
+capitals, support a massive architrave, while beyond them are double
+columns on three sides of a great court. This temple of Luxor was
+originally built by Amenophis III of the eighteenth dynasty in honor of
+Ammon, the greatest of Egyptian gods, his wife and their son, the
+moon-god Khons. The successor of this monarch erased the name of Ammon
+and made other changes, but Seti I restored Ammon's name, and then came
+Rameses II, the builder who never wearied in rearing huge temples and in
+carving colossal figures of himself.
+
+Rameses added a colonnaded court in front of the temple, built an
+enormous pylon, with obelisks and colossal statues that celebrate his
+own greatness, and erased the cartouches of the original builder,
+substituting his own and thus claiming credit for the erection of the
+whole temple. Were the spirit of the great Rameses allowed to return to
+earth and reanimate the mummy that now forms the most interesting
+exhibit in the Cairo Museum, how great would be his humiliation to know
+that his ingenious devices to appropriate the credit of other men's work
+have been exposed? In nearly all the remains of Upper Egypt, Rameses
+figures as the sole builder, but the cunning of modern archaeologists
+has stripped him of this credit and has revealed him as the greatest of
+royal charlatans.
+
+The general plan of the Luxor temple is repeated at Karnak and all other
+places in Egypt. The pylon, two towers of massive masonry, formed the
+entrance to the temple, the door being in the middle. The towers of the
+pylon resemble truncated pyramids and, as they were formed of large
+stones, they frequently survived when all other parts of the temple fell
+into ruins. The surfaces of the pylon afforded space for reliefs and
+inscriptions, telling of the glories of the king who reared the temple.
+In most cases obelisks and colossal statues of the royal builder were
+placed in front of the pylon. From the pylon one enters the great open
+court, with covered colonnades at right and left. This court was the
+gathering place of the people on all big festivals, and in the center
+stood the great altar. Back of this court, on a terrace a few feet
+higher, was the vestibule of the temple upheld by columns, the front row
+of which was balustraded. Behind this was the great hypostyle hall,
+extending the whole width of the building, with five aisles, the two
+outer ones being lower than the others. The roof of the central aisle is
+upheld by papyrus columns with calyx capitals, while that of the other
+aisles is supported by papyrus columns with bud capitals. Behind this
+hall is the inner sanctuary, containing the image of the god in a sacred
+boat. Around the sanctuary were grouped various chambers for the storage
+of the priests' vestments and for the use of watchmen and other
+attendants.
+
+In the Luxor temple the surface of the pylon is devoted to a record of
+the achievements in war of Rameses II, the monarch who finally revised
+the temple and put his seal on it. Behind the pylon is the great court
+of Rameses, entirely surrounded by two rows of seventy-four columns,
+with papyrus bud capitals and smooth shafts. Then comes a colonnade of
+seven double columns, fifty-two feet high, with calyx capitals; a second
+court, that of Amenophis III, with double rows of columns on three
+sides; the vestibule of the temple, two chapels, the birth-room of
+Amenophis and several other chambers.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+       The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak.
+  This Hall is in the Temple of Ammon, and is One
+  of the Most Impressive in All Egypt. Originally
+      There Were One Hundred and Thirty-four
+        Columns, Arranged in Sixteen Rows]
+
+Each monarch who reared a temple to his chosen deity devoted much space
+to statues of himself, with grandiloquent accounts in hieroglyphs of his
+exploits in war and peace and of the many peoples who paid him tribute.
+Rameses appears to have had most of the evil traits of the arbitrary
+despot. With unlimited men and material he was engaged during the
+greater part of his long reign in erecting colossal structures which
+were designed to perpetuate in enduring stone the record of his
+achievements. But Time has dealt Rameses some staggering blows. His tomb
+at Thebes, which was planned to preserve his mummy throughout the ages,
+fell in and is the only one of the tombs of the kings that cannot be
+shown. The mummy of this ablest and proudest of the Pharaohs is now on
+exhibition at the Cairo Museum with a score of others and excites the
+ribald comment of the Cook's tourist, who drops his "h's" and knows
+nothing of Egyptology. Yet the mummy of Rameses is by far the most
+interesting of those shown at the museum because the head and face are
+so essentially modern. The other rulers of Egypt were plainly Orientals,
+but this man, with the high-bridged, sensitive nose, the long upper lip,
+the strong chin and the powerful forehead, might have stepped out of the
+political life of any of the great European nations during the last
+century.
+
+The impressiveness of the temple of Luxor depends mainly upon the rows
+of columns, nearly sixty feet in height, which give one a vivid idea of
+the majesty of Egyptian architecture in its best estate. These columns
+show few traces of the destroying hand of time, although they were
+carved from soft limestone. Probably the escape of this temple from the
+ruin that befell Karnak and Thebes was due mainly to its sheltered
+position and also to the fact that a Coptic church and the houses of
+peasants were built among the columns. The refuse that aided to preserve
+these remains of Ancient Egyptian architecture was fully twenty feet
+deep when the work of excavation was begun. Hence Luxor satisfies the
+eye in the perfect arrangement of the columns and in the massiveness of
+the work. Here also on the pylon and the walls of the court may be seen
+some beautiful reliefs and inscriptions which depict scenes in the
+campaigns of Rameses II against the Hittites, sacrificial processions
+and hymns to the gods.
+
+From ancient Luxor to Karnak, a distance of a mile and one-half, the way
+was marked in the time of the Pharaohs by a double row of small
+sphinxes, many of which still remain in a half-ruined condition. This
+avenue leads to the small temple of Khons, the moon-god, made noteworthy
+by a beautiful pylon. This pylon is one hundred and four feet long,
+thirty-three feet wide and sixty feet high and is covered with
+inscriptions and reliefs. This small temple serves as an introduction to
+the great temple of Ammon, the chief glory of Karnak, to which most of
+the Pharaohs contributed. This temple is difficult to describe, as it
+covers several acres and is a mass of gigantic masonry, full of majesty
+even in its ruin. What it was in the days of its builders, with its vast
+courts lined with beautiful designs in brilliant colors, the imagination
+fails to conceive. Its greatest features are the main pylon (three
+hundred and seventy feet wide and one hundred and forty-two and one-half
+feet high), the great hypostyle hall of Seti I and Rameses II, the
+festival temple of Thotmes III and the obelisk of Queen Hatasu. From the
+pylon a superb view may be gained of the ruins of Karnak.
+
+The hypostyle hall is justly ranked among the wonders of the world, as
+it is no less than three hundred and thirty-eight feet in breadth by one
+hundred and seventy feet in depth and it is estimated that the great
+church of Notre Dame in Paris could be set down in this hall. Sixteen
+rows of columns--one hundred and thirty-four in all--support the roof.
+Looking down the two central rows of columns toward the sanctuary, one
+gets some idea of the effect of this colossal architecture when the
+pillars were all perfect and the fierce sunshine of ancient Egypt
+brought out their barbaric wealth of gold and brilliant colors.
+
+The walls of this immense hall are covered with pictures in relief
+depicting the victories of Seti and Rameses over the Libyans and the
+people of Palestine. These designs represent the two monarchs as
+performing prodigies of valor on the field of battle and then bringing
+the trophies of war as an offering to the gods. The festal hall of
+Thotmes III is made noteworthy by twenty unique columns arranged in two
+rows. The Temple of Karnak was made beautiful by two fine obelisks of
+pink granite from Assuan, erected by Queen Hatasu. One is in fragments,
+but the other rises one hundred and one-half feet from amid a ruined
+colonnade. It is the loftiest obelisk known with the single exception of
+that in front of the Lateran in Rome, which is taller by only three and
+one-half feet. The inscription records that it was made in seven months.
+
+The impression left by the ruins of Karnak is bewildering. The modern
+mind has great difficulty in conceiving how any monarch, no matter how
+great his resources, could spend years in erecting these huge structures
+in honor of his gods. Here are scores of colossal statues of Rameses,
+Seti and Amenophis, each of which required six months to carve from a
+single slab of red or black granite. Here are hundreds of columns of
+from forty to sixty feet high, covered from capital to base with richly
+carved hieroglyphs. Here are splendid halls, larger than anything known
+in our day, which were picture galleries in stone, blazing with gold,
+red, purple and other colors. And here are obelisks that have preserved
+through all these centuries the story of their dedication.
+
+The mind is staggered by so great a mass of work, representing untold
+misery of thousands of wretched slaves brought from all parts of the
+then known world. These slaves were made to work under the terrible
+Egyptian sun; if they were overcome by the heat and stopped for a
+moment's rest their bare backs felt the cruel lash of the overseer; if
+they fell under the heat and the burden they were dragged out and their
+bodies thrown to the vultures and the jackals. So, while we stand in
+amazement before these relics of the enormous activity of a people who
+have passed away, we cannot fail to note that these huge stones were
+cemented with the blood and tears of the bond slave, and that if they
+could find a voice they would tell of unthinkable atrocities which they
+witnessed in those old days, before brotherly love came into the world.
+
+
+TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT ANCIENT THEBES
+
+The Greeks and Romans who went up the Nile as far as the "hundred-gated"
+city of Thebes declared that the Tombs of the Kings, cut in the
+limestone sides of the Libyan range of mountains, were among the wonders
+of the world. The tourist of to-day will confirm this early impression,
+for in Egypt nothing gives one a more vivid idea of the enormous pains
+taken by the Pharaohs to preserve their dead from desecration than do
+these tombs. Here for several miles in the flanks of these
+mountains--sterile, desolate beyond any region that I have ever
+seen--are scattered the rock-hewn tombs of the monarchs who carried the
+arms of Egypt to all parts of the known world of their day. Like their
+temples, the Egyptians built their tombs after a uniform plan--the only
+variation was in the arrangement of the minor chambers and in the
+inscriptions which told of the history of the king whose mummy reposed
+in the vault.
+
+Seven miles across the river the Pharaohs chose the site of their tombs.
+Imagination could not conceive a greater abomination of desolation than
+the rocky mountainside in which these tombs are carved; but fortunes
+were lavished on the construction of these resting places of the dead.
+Historians and travelers have told of the great city which grew up about
+the tombs of the Egyptian kings--the temples, the homes of priests and
+the huge settlements of thousands of workmen who spent years in the
+laborious carving and decoration of these burial places. But to-day
+nothing remains of these cities, and of the temples only a few columns,
+pillars and broken statues bear witness to their former grandeur. Yet
+the tombs have resisted the destroying hand of the centuries, and the
+walls of several of them actually retain the brilliant colors laid on by
+the painters over four thousand years ago. When you go down the
+roughly-hewn steps into the mortuary chambers, carved out of the solid
+rock, it is borne in upon you that here time has stood still; that
+during all the ages that have seen the rise of Christianity and the
+growth of empires greater than Thebes ever dreamed of, the mummies of
+these Pharaohs reposed here undisturbed. Now by the aid of skilfully
+arranged electric lights you may descend into most of these tombs,
+marvel at the beauty of the decorative inscriptions on the walls, gaze
+upon the massive granite sarcophagi in which the mummies were placed,
+and get a genuine taste of the antiquity that you have read about but
+never fully realized before. This is the service of the tombs of the
+kings--the actual turning back of the centuries so that one feels the
+touch of the ancient days as vividly as he feels the hot, dust-laden,
+oppressive air of the mausoleum.
+
+The excursion from Luxor to the tombs of the kings and the Colossi of
+Memnon, not far away, is a hard day's trip. The tourist crosses the Nile
+in a small boat and takes a donkey or a carriage. The road leads along a
+large canal, passing the remains of the great temple of Seti I at Kurna,
+and thence winds around through two desert valleys into a gorge lined on
+both sides with naked, sun-baked rocks that give back the heat like the
+open doors of a furnace. Bare of any scrap of verdure, desolate beyond
+expression, these rocky walls that shut in this gorge form a fitting
+introduction to the tombs of the kings. The road finally turns to the
+left and enters a small valley, encircled by huge rocks, cut by ravines.
+Here one may see in the sides of the mountain wall the first of the
+rock-hewn tombs, which happens to be that of Rameses IV. One enters the
+large gateway and passes down an ancient staircase cut in the solid
+rock, at an angle of forty-five degrees. Three corridors and an
+ante-room, all carved out of rock, lead to the main chamber, which
+contains the mammoth granite sarcophagus of the king (ten feet long,
+eight feet high and seven feet wide), beautifully decorated with
+inscriptions. Four other rooms follow, the walls of each being covered
+with inscriptions. Recesses are found in the main hall for the storage
+of the furniture of the dead and in several of the other rooms.
+
+The theory of the Egyptians in the arrangement of these tombs was that
+the dead king, guided by the great sun-god, voyaged through the
+underworld every night in a boat. Hence he must have careful guidance in
+regard to his route. This was furnished by elaborate extracts from two
+sacred books of the Egyptians. One was entitled _The Book of Him Who Is
+in the Underworld_ and the other was the _Book of the Portals_.
+
+The walls of these tombs reveal extracts from the sacred books in great
+variety, but all designed to serve as a guide to the dead kings. The
+best tombs are those of Amenophis II, Rameses III, Seti I and Thotmes
+III. They are all of similar design but the tomb of Seti I (discovered
+by the Italian savant, Belzoni) is finer than any of the others. It
+includes fourteen rooms, most of which are richly adorned with
+inscriptions and designs from the sacred books. The sculptures on the
+walls are executed with great skill and the decorations of the ceilings
+show much artistic taste. In the tenth room are many curious
+decorations, the ceiling, which is finely vaulted, being covered with
+astronomical figures and lists of stars and constellations. From this
+room an incline leads to the mummy shaft. The mummy of Seti I is in the
+Cairo Museum, while the fine alabaster sarcophagus is in the Soane
+Museum in London. The tomb of Amenophis II is noteworthy as the only one
+which contains the royal mummy. In a crypt with blue ceiling, spangled
+with yellow stars and with yellow walls to represent papyrus, is the
+great sandstone sarcophagus of the king. Under a strong electric light
+is shown the mummy-shaped coffin with the body of the king, its arms
+crossed and the funeral garlands still resting in the case. The
+effectiveness of this mummy makes one regret that the others have been
+removed to the Cairo Museum, instead of being restored to their original
+places in these tombs. Most of these royal mummies were removed to a
+shaft at Deir-el-Bahri to save them from desecration by the invading
+Persians, but when the mummies were found it would have been wise to
+replace them in these tombs rather than to group them, as was done, in
+the Cairo Museum. One or two mummies in that museum would have been as
+effective as two dozen.
+
+Not far from these tombs is the fine temple of Queen Hatasu at
+Deir-el-Bahri. This queen was the sister and wife of King Thotmes III,
+and for a part of his reign was co-regent. The temple, which was left
+unfinished, was completed by Rameses II. A short ride from this temple
+brings one to the Ramessium, the large temple (which is badly preserved)
+erected by Rameses II and dedicated to the god Ammon. The pylon is
+ruined, but one can still decipher some of the inscriptions that tell of
+Rameses' campaign against the Hittites. The first court is a mass of
+ruined masonry, but it contains fragments of a colossal statue of
+Rameses, the largest ever found in Egypt. It probably measured
+fifty-seven and one-third feet in height, as the various parts show that
+it was twenty-two and one-half feet from shoulder to shoulder. The
+colossal head of another statue of Rameses was found near by. The great
+hall had many fine columns, of which eighteen are still standing. These
+columns are very impressive and give one some idea of the majesty of the
+temple when it was complete. Not far away are the tombs of the queens,
+including the fine mausoleum of the consort of Rameses II, part of whose
+name was Mi-an-Mut.
+
+A half mile from the Ramessium brings one to the Colossi of Memnon, the
+two huge seated figures of stone, which were long included among the
+seven wonders of the world. These figures were statues of King Amenophis
+III and were placed in front of a great temple that he built at this
+place; but time has dealt hardly with the temple, as scarcely a trace of
+it remains. The figures with the pedestals are about sixty-five feet
+high and, as they are on the level plain near the banks of the Nile,
+they can be seen from a great distance. Though carved from hard
+sandstone these figures have suffered severely from the elements, so
+that the faces bear little trace of human features; still they are
+impressive from their mere size and from the fact that they have come
+down to us across the centuries with so little change.
+
+The southern statue is in the best preservation, but the northern one is
+of greatest interest because for ages it was believed to give forth
+musical notes when the first rays of the rising sun fell on its lips.
+The Greeks called it the Statue of Memnon, and invented the fable that
+Memnon, who was slain at Troy by Achilles, appeared on the Nile as a
+stone image and every morning greeted his mother (Eos) with a song. So
+many good observers vouched for these musical notes at sunrise that the
+phenomenon must be accepted as an historical fact. The Romans invented
+the legend that when these sounds occurred the god was angry. Hence the
+emperor, Septimius Severus, apparently to propitiate the god, made some
+restorations in the upper portion of the statue, whereupon the
+mysterious musical sounds ceased. Some modern experts in physics have
+deduced the theory that this statue, carved from hard, resonant stone,
+really gave forth sounds when warmed up by the early sun after the heavy
+dews of night. Similar sounds have been observed elsewhere, due to the
+splitting off of very small particles of stone by sudden expansion.
+Whatever the cause of these mysterious sounds, the speaking statue has
+served as an inspiration to many poets.
+
+
+SAILING DOWN THE NILE ON A SMALL STEAMER
+
+Few pleasure trips are more enjoyable than a steamer ride down the Nile
+from Luxor to Cairo. My plans did not permit an extensive Nile trip, so
+I went up the Nile by rail and came down by the Amenartas, one of Cook's
+small boats. For one who has the leisure the best scheme is to take one
+of Cook's express boats and make the round trip to Assouan from Cairo.
+The Egypt and the Arabia are two luxurious steamers specially arranged
+for the comfort of tourists.
+
+The Nile at Luxor is about a half-mile wide at extreme low water in
+December, although the marks on the bank show that it spreads over
+several miles of flat land when the heavy rains come in June and July.
+It is as muddy as the Missouri or the San Joaquin, but the natives drink
+this water, refusing to have it filtered. They claim, and probably with
+reason, that this Nile water is very nutritious. The Egyptian fellah or
+peasant seldom enjoys a hot meal. He chews parched Indian corn and sugar
+cane, and eats a curious bread made of coarse flour and water. Despite
+this monotonous diet the native is a model of physical vigor, with teeth
+which are as white and perfect as those of a Pueblo Indian.
+
+All around Luxor are evidences of the tremendous force of the Nile
+waters when in flood. At various headlands near the city the banks of
+the Nile have been stoned up with solid walls, so that these may
+receive the full sweep of the flood waters. The great dam at Assouan,
+perhaps the finest bit of engineering work in the world, holds up the
+main current of the Nile and prevents the destructive floods which in
+the old days frequently swept away all the soil of the fellah's little
+farm. This dam has now been increased twelve feet in height, so that no
+water pours over the top.
+
+The farmers in Egypt irrigate in the same way as the ryots of India.
+They lay off a field into small rectangular patches, with a ridge around
+each to keep the irrigation water in it. These rectangles make the
+fields look like huge checker-boards. Plowing is done exactly as in the
+time of Cleopatra. A forked stick, often not shod with iron, serves as a
+plow, to which are frequently harnessed a camel and a bullock by a
+heavy, unwieldy yoke. When these two unequally yoked animals move across
+the field, agriculture in the Orient is seen at its best. Unlike the
+Japanese, the Egyptian women do not work in the fields. Their labors
+seem to be limited to carrying water in large jars on their heads and to
+washing clothes in the dirty Nile water. The most common sight along the
+river is that of two women, with their single cotton garment gathered up
+above their knees, filling the water jars or rinsing out clothes in
+water that is thick and yellow with dirt.
+
+The steamer Amenartas started down the river at two in the afternoon.
+The current was strong and the little steamer easily made fifteen miles
+an hour. Now began a series of exquisite views of river life, which
+changed every minute and saved the voyage from monotony. The first thing
+that impresses the stranger who is new to Egypt is the number and
+variety of the shadoufs for bringing the Nile water to the fields.
+These consist of three platforms, each equipped with two upright posts
+of date palm trunks, with a crossbar. From this crossbar depends a well
+sweep, with a heavy weight at one end and a tin or wooden bucket at the
+other. One man at the level of the river scoops up a bucket of water and
+lifts it to the height or his head, pouring it into a small basin of
+earth. The second man fills his bucket from this basin and in turn
+delivers it to the third man, who is about six feet above him. The third
+man raises the water to the height of his head and pours it into a ditch
+which carries it upon the land. The heavy weights on the shadouf help to
+raise the water, but the labor of lifting this water all day is
+strenuous. The shadouf men work with only small loin cloths, and
+occasionally one of these fellows in a sheltered hole toils stark naked.
+
+Despite the fact that their work is as heavy as any done in Egypt, they
+receive the wretched pittance of two piasters or ten cents a day, out of
+which they must spend two and one-half cents a day for food. The shadouf
+is as old as history, and the methods in use for raising this Nile water
+are the same to-day that they were in the earliest dawn of recorded
+history.
+
+As in India, there is a great dearth of farmhouses in these rich lands.
+The peasants are herded in squalid villages, the mud huts jammed close
+together, and the whole place overrun with goats, donkeys, pigs,
+chickens and pigeons. The houses are the crudest huts, with no window
+and no roof.
+
+Life in these villages along the Nile is as primitive as it is among the
+Pueblo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico. Although their religion
+admonishes them to wash before prayers, these peasants appear to pay
+little heed to such rites. Men, women and children are extremely dirty,
+and it is unusual to find anyone with good eyes. Inflammation of the
+eyelids is the most common complaint and this disease is aggravated by
+the fact that the natives make no effort to drive away the flies that
+fasten upon the sore eyes of their little children. This is due to the
+common superstition that it brings ill luck to brush off flies. At every
+small station where the steamer stopped to land native passengers and
+freight a score of villagers would be lined up, each afflicted with some
+eye complaint, and all swarming with small black flies.
+
+At only a few towns along the Nile from Luxor to Cairo were there any
+houses which looked like comfortable homes. The great majority of the
+houses were of sun-dried brick, and these were often in a ruinous
+condition. Yet with their framework of graceful date palms, these
+squalid villages would delight the eye of an artist. For nearly the
+whole distance the west side of the Nile is marked off from the desert
+by the high Libyan mountains, gleaming white and yellow in the brilliant
+sunshine. These limestone cliffs were chosen for the tombs of the kings
+at Thebes, and all along the river one could make out with a glass
+frequent tombs carved in the steep sides of these hills. The other side
+of the river was flat, with low ranges of hills. At sunrise and at
+sunset the most exquisite colors transformed the country into a
+veritable fairyland. The sun sank behind bands of purple and amethyst,
+and his last rays brought out in sharp silhouette the statuesque forms
+of women water-carriers and long lines of laden camels moving in ghostly
+silence along the river bank. Very beautiful also were the pictures made
+by the dahabiehs and other native boats, with their big lateen sails and
+with the motley gathering of natives in the stern. All these boats have
+enormous rudders which rise high out of the water and add greatly to the
+effectiveness of the picture as seen against the sunset glow.
+
+The atmosphere along the Nile is wonderfully clear, the sky is as blue
+and lustrous as fine silk, and the wind blows up clouds in fantastic
+shapes, which add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. All day the
+little steamer passes half-ruined villages, embowered in feathery palms,
+with camels in the background and an occasional bullock straining at the
+wheel which lifts the Nile water on the shadouf. All day natives passed
+along the sky line, some on donkeys, others on camels, still others
+driving in front laden animals, whose forms could scarcely be
+distinguished amid the thick clouds of dust raised by their heavy feet.
+The creak of the shadoufs could be heard before we came abreast of the
+tireless workers.
+
+Seen from the steamer the glamour of the Orient was over all this
+poverty-stricken land, but seen near at hand were revealed all the ugly
+features of dirt, disease, hopeless poverty, unending work that yields
+only the coarsest and scantiest food. We passed miles on miles of waving
+fields of sugar cane, with great factories where this cane was worked up
+into sugar. We passed broad fields of cotton, with factories near at
+hand for converting the product into cloth. Principalities of
+wheat--great seas of emerald green that stood out against a background of
+sandy desert--lined the banks at frequent intervals. But all these
+evidences of the new wealth that scientific irrigation has brought to
+this ancient valley of the Nile means nothing to the Egyptian peasant.
+These great industries are in the hands of native or foreign
+millionaires, who see to it that the wages of the native workers are
+kept down to the lowest level.
+
+
+BEFORE THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX
+
+Wintry winds in Cairo, which raised clouds of dust and sand, prevented
+me from seeing the pyramids until after my return from Luxor. Then one
+still, warm day it was my good fortune to see at their best these oldest
+monuments of man's work on this earth. Yet impressive as are these great
+masses of stone rising from barren wastes of sand, they did not affect
+me so powerfully as the ruins of Karnak and the tombs of the Kings of
+Thebes. Three pyramids were constructed at Gizeh and four other groups
+at Sakkara, the site of the ancient city of Memphis. That these pyramids
+were built for the tombs of kings has now been demonstrated beyond
+question, so that the many elaborate theories of the religious
+significance of these monuments may be dismissed. The ancient city of
+Memphis was for centuries the seat of the government of Egypt, and the
+tombs that may be seen to-day at Sakkara preceded the rock-hewn tombs at
+Thebes in Upper Egypt. The great antiquity of the tombs at Sakkara makes
+these of importance, although much of the work is inferior to that at
+Thebes.
+
+The pictures of the pyramids are misleading. They give the impression
+that these great masses of stone rise near palm groves and that the
+Sphinx is almost as huge as the pyramid of Cheops which overshadows it.
+In reality, the pyramids are set on a sandy plateau, about fifteen feet
+high, while the Sphinx is practically buried in a hollow to the west of
+the great pyramid and can only be seen from one direction. When you
+stand in front of the big pyramid you can form no idea of its size, but
+you know from the guide book that it is seven hundred and fifty feet
+long and four hundred and fifty-one feet high. The height of each side
+is five hundred and sixty-eight feet, while the angle of the sides is
+fifty-one degrees fifty minutes. These statistics do not make much
+impression on the mind but, when it is said that this huge pyramid
+actually covers thirteen acres, the mind begins to grasp the stupendous
+size of this great mass of masonry. This pyramid to-day is of dirty
+brown color, but when finished it was covered with blocks of white
+limestone.
+
+These were removed by various builders and have served to erect mosques
+and temples. Had this covering remained intact it would be impossible to
+climb the pyramid of Cheops. From Cairo and the Nile, as well as from
+the desert, the pyramids are an impressive sight. Unique in shape and
+massive as the Libyan hills beyond them, they can never be forgotten,
+for they represent more perfectly than any other remains in Egypt the
+control by the early kings of unlimited labor and materials.
+
+It used to be the fashion to sneer at the stories told by Herodotus, but
+the excavations in Egypt during the last thirty years have demonstrated
+that this old Greek traveler was an accurate observer and that what he
+saw may be accepted as fact. He was the first to give any detailed
+description of the pyramids and of the enormous work of building them.
+Herodotus visited Egypt about 450 B. C., and he related that one hundred
+thousand men were employed for three months at one time in building the
+great pyramid of Cheops. The stone was quarried near the site of the
+citadel in Cairo, and ten years were consumed in constructing a great
+road across the desert to Gizeh by which the stone was transported. The
+remains of this road, formed of massive stone blocks, may now be seen
+near the Sphinx. The construction of the big pyramid alone required
+twenty years. The story of Herodotus that one hundred thousand men were
+once employed on this pyramid is plausible, according to
+Flinders-Petrie, as these months came during the inundation of the Nile,
+when there was no field work to occupy their time.
+
+The ascent of the pyramid is an easy task for any one in good physical
+condition and accustomed to gymnastic work. Two Bedouins assist you from
+the front while an ancient Sheik is supposed to help push you from the
+rear. In my case the Bedouins had a very easy job, while the Sheik
+enjoyed a sinecure. The stones are about a yard high, and the only
+difficulty of the ascent lies in the straddle which must be made to
+cover these stones. The ascent is made on the northeast corner of the
+pyramid, and much help is gained by inequalities in the great slabs of
+limestone which enable one to get a foothold. Two rests were made on the
+upward climb, but we came down without any rest, covering the whole trip
+in about fifteen minutes.
+
+The view from the summit is superb. On two sides, the south and west,
+sketches the sandy desert, broken only by the groups of pyramids at
+Abusir, Sakkara and Dashhur, which mark the bounds of the ancient city
+of Memphis.
+
+The average tourist has more curiosity about the Sphinx than about the
+pyramids, and here the reality is not disappointing. An impressive
+figure is this of a recumbent stone lion one hundred and eighty-seven
+feet long and sixty-six feet high, with a man's head that is full of
+power and pride. The nose is gone and the face is badly scarred, but
+here is the typical Egyptian face, with the fine setting of the eyes and
+the graceful head.
+
+The journey to the rock tombs of Sakkara and the site of ancient Memphis
+is tedious, as it includes a ride across the sandy desert of eighty
+miles. A stop is made at the old house of Mariette, the famous French
+Egyptologist, who uncovered many of the finest remains in Memphis. Near
+by is the Step pyramid, the tomb of a king of the fifth dynasty and one
+of the oldest monuments in Egypt.
+
+Near by are several pyramids and tombs that will repay a visit, as each
+gives some new idea of the extraordinary care taken by the ancient
+Egyptians to preserve their dead and to assure them proper guidance in
+the land beyond the tomb.
+
+In one chapel are exquisitely carved mural reliefs, many of which still
+retain their original colors. In these chambers the hot, dry air is like
+that of the desert. A hundred years seem like a day in this atmosphere,
+where nothing changes with the changing seasons. Under one's feet is the
+soft, dry dust stirred up by the feet of many tourists, but rain and
+sunshine never penetrate this home of the dead, and a century passes
+without leaving a mark on these inscriptions which were chiseled long
+before the children of Israel made their escape from bondage in Egypt.
+It seems incredible that so many momentous things should have occurred
+while in these still, warm tombs day followed day without change.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVII
+
+          A Typical Street in Old Cairo.
+  These Buildings Show the Architecture of Cairo,
+        With a Mosque on the Left With Dome
+                   and Minaret]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVIII
+
+  An Arab Cafe In One
+  of Cairo's Streets.
+  The Open Air Cafes,
+  Facing the Sidewalk,
+    Abound In Cairo.
+    The Smokers and
+  Coffee-Drinkers Pay
+    No Attention to
+      Passers-by]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIX
+
+   Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume.
+  One of These Women is Uncovered, While the
+    Other Wears the Yashmak or Face Mask.
+        They Carry Large Water Jars on
+                 Their Heads]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LX
+
+               The Rameseon at Karnak.
+  Six Colossal Statues of Rameses II of Which Three
+              Are in Fair Preservation]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXI
+
+      The Avenue of
+   Sphinxes at Karnak.
+   The Road From Luxor
+   to Karnak Was Lined
+  With Recumbent Rams,
+  Called Krio-Sphinxes,
+   Many of Which Still
+         Remain]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXII
+
+    An Arab Village on the
+       Nile. This Is a
+     Typical Village, the
+  Houses of Sun-dried Brick,
+     like the California
+        Adobe, and the
+         Whole Shaded
+          By Palms]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXIII
+
+       The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes.
+  These Gigantic Figures on the West Bank of the
+    Nile May Be Seen for Many Miles. They are
+    Sixty-five Feet High, and Stood Originally
+              in Front of a Temple]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXIV
+
+       The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple
+  Underneath. This is the Best View of the Face,
+  Which Has a Certain Majesty. The Lion's Figure
+      is Sixty-six Feet High and One Hundred
+           and Eighty-seven Feet Long]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+HINTS FOR TRAVELERS
+
+SOME SUGGESTIONS THAT MAY SAVE THE TOURIST TIME AND MONEY
+
+
+For a round-the-world trip the best plan is to buy a Cook's ticket for
+six hundred and thirty-nine dollars and ten cents. This provides
+transportation from any place in the United States around the world to
+the starting point. The advantage of a Cook's ticket over the tickets of
+other companies is that this firm has the best organized force, with
+large offices in the big cities and with banks as agencies in hundreds
+of places where you may cash its money orders. This is a great
+convenience as it saves the risk of carrying considerable sums of money
+in lands where thievery is a fine art. Cook's agents may be found on
+arrival by boat or train in all the principal cities of a world-tour.
+These men invariably speak English well, and thus they are a god-send
+when the tourist knows nothing of the language or the customs of a
+strange country. At the offices of Cook and Son in all the large
+Oriental cities one may get accurate information about boats and trains
+and may purchase tickets for side excursions. Some of the Oriental
+offices I found careless in the handling of mail because of the
+employment of native clerks, but this was not general. Cook will furnish
+guides for the leading Oriental tours and in India and Egypt these are
+absolutely necessary, as without them life is made a burden by the
+demands of carriage drivers, hotel servants and beggars. Cook will
+furnish good guides for Japan, but it is unsafe to select natives unless
+you have a guarantee that they know the places usually visited and that
+they speak intelligible English. The pronunciation of Japanese differs
+so vitally from that of English that many Japanese who understand and
+write English well make a hopeless jumble of words when they attempt to
+speak it. Their failure to open their mouths or to give emphasis to
+words renders it extremely difficult to understand them. Good foreign
+hotels may be found in all the Japanese cities and even those managed by
+Japanese are conducted in European style. It is a pity that the hotels
+are not modeled on the Japanese style, like the Kanaya Hotel at Nikko,
+where the furniture and the decorations of the rooms are essentially
+Japanese and very artistic. The average charge for room and board in
+Japanese hotels of the first class is four dollars, but some of the more
+pretentious places demand from five to six dollars a day.
+
+The cost of travel in India is not heavy because of the moderate scale
+of prices. Hotels usually charge ten rupees a day for board and lodging
+or about three dollars a day. Carriage hire is cheap, especially if you
+have a party of four to fill one carriage. A Victoria, holding four
+people, may be had morning and afternoon for twenty rupees, or an
+average of about one dollar and seventy-five cents a day each. Railway
+travel is absurdly cheap. Our party traveled second-class from Calcutta
+to Delhi, thence to Bombay, Madras and Tuticorin, a distance of about
+thirty-five hundred miles--farther than from New York to San
+Francisco--for one hundred and forty rupees or about forty-five dollars
+in American money. The first-class fare was nearly twice this amount,
+but no additional comfort would have been secured. We made the trip at
+low cost because a bargain was always made with hotelkeepers and
+carriage drivers. Always make a definite bargain or you will be
+overcharged. A native guide is necessary not only to show you the places
+of interest but to arrange for carriages and to pay tips to servants.
+Secure a Mohammedan guide and you may rest content that you will not be
+cheated. His antipathy to the Hindoo will prevent any collusion with
+servants. A good guide may be had for two rupees a day or about
+sixty-five cents, and he will board himself.
+
+Murray's Guide books for Japan, China, the Straits Settlements and India
+are the most useful. These give the best routes and describe all the
+principal objects of interest. Without such a guide-book, one is
+helpless, as the professional guides frequently omit important things
+which should be seen. It is needless to look for conscientiousness or
+honesty in the Orient. You will not find them.
+
+To avoid trouble when hiring carriage or jinrikisha, make a definite
+bargain by the hour or by the trip. This you may do through the hotel
+porter. Then, on your return, if the driver or the rickshaw-man demands
+more, refer the matter to the porter, and refuse to pay more than your
+bargain. If you do not take these precautions you will be involved in
+constant trouble and will be persistently charged twice what you should
+pay. Even with these precautions, you cannot escape trouble in
+Singapore, which is cursed with the greediest carriage drivers in the
+world.
+
+Many travelers purchase Cook's hotel coupons which provide for lodging
+and meals at certain hotels in every large city of the Orient. My
+experience is that it is a mistake to buy these coupons, as all the
+hotel managers speak English or have hall porters who understand the
+language. You gain little by the arrangement, and you lose the choice of
+good rooms, as hotel managers are not partial to tourists who carry
+coupons, since the profit on these is small.
+
+In Egypt, Cook's tours, which are arranged to suit all tastes, are the
+most convenient. The best plan is to go up the Nile by train and to come
+down by boat. Do not neglect the ride down the river. It consumes more
+time but it is the only way in which you can get an idea of the charm of
+the scenery, the primitive life of the people, and the beauty of sunrise
+and sunset over the desert.
+
+Above all things, arrange your itinerary carefully before you start.
+Here is where Cook's agent can help you materially, but you must not
+rely upon his advice in regard to steamship lines. He will recommend the
+P. & O. boats, as they are British, but practically every tourist who
+has made the trip will say that the North German Lloyd steamers give the
+best service. Engage your state-room several months in advance and pay a
+deposit, so as to get a receipt for the best berth in a certain room.
+Unless you do this, you will have trouble and will probably be forced to
+sleep in an inside room on hot tropical nights. Get a room on star-board
+or port-side, according to the prevailing wind. To be on the windward
+side means comfort and coolness at night. As soon as possible after
+boarding a vessel see the bath steward and select an hour for your
+morning bath. Should you neglect this, you will be forced to rise very
+early or to bathe at night. If you wish certain table companions see the
+head steward promptly. If you travel on a P. & O. boat, engage an
+electric fan at the Company's office, as there is a rule that you can't
+hire a fan after you are on board. The North German Lloyd furnishes
+fans, which are a necessity in the tropics.
+
+There is a regular tariff for tips on most of the Oriental steamship
+lines, graded according to the length of the voyage. You can always
+ascertain what to give to your waiter, room steward, bath steward, boot
+black and deck steward. These tips are always given on the last day of
+the voyage. American tourists are criminally lavish in giving tips, with
+the result that one who adheres to the rules of old travelers, is apt to
+be regarded as niggardly. It is to be noted that the richest travelers
+always conform to the regular schedule of tips.
+
+In all parts of the Orient it is unsafe to drink the water of the
+country. If you do not relish bottled waters, demand tea; at any rate
+make sure that the water you drink has been boiled. I found hot tea an
+excellent drink even in the tropics and I was never troubled with the
+complaints that follow drinking unboiled water. It is well to make
+liberal use of the curries and rice which are excellent everywhere.
+These, with fish, eggs and fruit, formed the staple of my diet. Never
+eat melons nor salads made of green vegetables; the native methods of
+fertilizing the soil are fatal to the wholesomeness of such things.
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+BOOKS WHICH HELP ONE TO UNDERSTAND THE ORIENT AND ITS PEOPLE
+
+
+In this bibliography no attempt has been made to cover the field of
+books about the leading countries of the Orient. The aim has been to
+mention the books which the tourist will find most helpful. Guide books
+are indispensable, but they give the imagination no stimulus. It is a
+positive help to read one or two good descriptive accounts of any
+country before visiting it; in this way one gets an idea of comparative
+values. In these notes I have mentioned only the books that are familiar
+to me and which I have found suggestive.
+
+
+JAPAN
+
+Of all foreigners who have written about Japan, Lafcadio Hearn gives one
+the best idea of the Japanese character and of the literature that is
+its expression. Hearn married a Japanese lady, became Professor of
+English Literature at the Imperial University of Tokio, renounced his
+American citizenship, and professed belief in Buddhism. He never
+mastered the Japanese language but he surpassed every other foreign
+student in his ability to make real the singular faith of the Japanese
+in the presence of good and evil spirits and the national worship of
+beauty in nature and art. Hearn's father was Greek and his mother Irish.
+In mind he was a strange mixture of a Florentine of the Renaissance and
+a pagan of the age of Pericles. In _The West Indies_ he has given the
+best estimate of the influence of the tropics on the white man, and in
+_Japan: An Interpretation_, _In Ghostly Japan_, _Exotics and
+Retrospections_, and others, he has recorded in exquisite literary style
+his conception of Japanese character, myths and folk-legends. His work
+in this department is so fine that no one else ranks with him. He seems
+to have been able to put himself in the place of the cultivated Japanese
+and to interpret the curious national beliefs in good and evil spirits
+and ghosts. He has also made more real than any other foreign writer the
+peculiar position of the Japanese wife. Hearn was a conservative,
+despite his lawless life, and he looked with regret upon the
+transformation of old Japan, wrought by the new desire to Europeanize
+the country. He paints with great art the idyllic life of the old
+Samauri and the loyalty of the retainers to their chief.
+
+Sir Edwin Arnold, who in his old age married a Japanese lady, has given
+excellent pictures of life in Japan in _Seas and Lands_ and _Japonica_.
+_Religions of Japan_ by W. E. Griffis gives a good idea of the various
+creeds. Mr. Griffis in _The Mikado's Empire_ also furnishes a good
+description of Japan and the Japanese.
+
+In _Fifty Tears of New Japan_, Count Okuma has compiled a work that
+gives a complete survey of Japanese progress during the last half
+century. Among the contributors are many of the leading statesmen and
+publicists of Japan.
+
+Of fiction, the scene of which is laid in Japan, one of the most famous
+stories is _Madame Chrysantheme_ by Pierre Loti, a cynical sketch of the
+Japanese geisha, or professional entertainer. Another good story which
+lays bare the ugly fate that often befalls the geisha, is _The Lady and
+Sada San_ by Frances Little, the author of that popular book, _The Lady
+of the Decoration_.
+
+Other books that will be found valuable are Norman, _The New Japan_;
+Chamberlain, _Things Japanese_; Treves, _The Other Side of the Lantern_;
+Murray, _Handbook of Japan_; Clement, _Handbook of Modern Japan_;
+D'Autremer, _The Japanese Empire_; Hartshorne, _Japan and Her People_;
+Fraser, _A Diplomatist's Wife In Japan_; Lloyd, _Everyday Japan_;
+Scidmore, _Jinrikisha Days In Japan_; Knox, _Japanese Life In Town and
+Country_; Singleton, _Japan, As Described By Great Writers_; Inouye,
+_Home Life In Tokio_.
+
+
+MANILA
+
+The acqusition of the Philippine Islands by the United States has led to
+a great increase of the literature on the islands, especially in regard
+to educational and industrial progress. Among the old books that have
+good sketches of Manila are _A Visit to the Philippine Islands_ by Sir
+John Browning.
+
+For sketches of the city since the American occupation see Worcester,
+_The Philippine Islands and Their People_; Landor, _The Gems of the
+East_; Dennis, _An Observer in the Philippines_; Potter, _The East
+To-day and Tomorrow_; Moses, _Unofficial Letters of An Official's Wife_;
+Hamm, _Manila and the Philippines_; Younghusband, _The Philippines and
+Round About_; Stevens, _Yesterdays in the Philippines_; Arnold, The
+Philippines, _the Land of Palm and Pine_; and LeRoy, _Philippine Life in
+Town and Country_.
+
+
+HONGKONG
+
+Good descriptive sketches of Hongkong may be found in Norman, _The
+Peoples and Politics of the Far East_; Des Veux, _A Handbook of
+Hongkong_; Colquhoun, _China in Transformation_; Penfield, _East of
+Suez_; Treves, _The Other Side of the Lantern_; Ball, _Things Chinese_;
+Thomson, _The Changing Chinese_; Singleton, _China As Described by Great
+Writers_; and Liddell, China, _Its Marvel and Mystery_.
+
+
+SINGAPORE
+
+Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, was one of the
+British Empire builders who was very shabbily treated by the English
+government. Unaided, he prevented the Dutch from obtaining exclusive
+control over all the waters about Singapore and he was also
+instrumental in retaining Malacca, after the East India Company had
+decided to abandon it. He was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of
+Java after the English wrested the island from the Dutch in 1810.
+His ambition was to make Java "the center of an Eastern Insular
+Empire," but this project was thwarted by the restoration of Java
+to Holland. The Raffles Museum in Singapore, one of the most
+interesting in the Orient, was his gift.
+
+Sketches of Singapore may be found in Sir Frank Swettenham's
+_British Malaya_, _Malay Sketches_ and _The Real Malay_; Wright and
+Reed, _The Malay Peninsula_; Belfield, _Handbook of the Federated
+Malay States_; Harrison, _Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay
+States_; Ireland, _The Far Eastern Tropics_; Boulger, _Life of Sir
+Stamford Raffles_; Buckley, _Records of Singapore_.
+
+
+RANGOON
+
+There is a large literature on Burma, which seems to have appealed to
+British travelers. Among the books that have chapters devoted to Rangoon
+are Cuming, _In the Shadow of the Pagoda_; Bird, _Wanderings in Burma_;
+Hart, _Picturesque Burma_; Kelly, _The Silken East_; MacMahon, _Far
+Cathay and Farther India_; Vincent, _The Land of the White Elephant_;
+Nisbet, _Burma Under British Rule and Before_; Hall, _The Soul of a
+People_ and _A People at School_.
+
+
+INDIA
+
+The literature about India is very extensive, so that only a few of the
+best books may be mentioned here. To the tourist the one indispensable
+book is Murray's _Handbook for Travelers in India, Ceylon and Burma_,
+which is well provided with maps and plans of cities. For general
+description, among the best works are Malcolm, _Indian Pictures and
+Problems_; Scidmore, _Winter India_; Forrest, _Cities of India_;
+Kipling, _From Sea to Sea_; Stevens, _In India_; Arnold, _India
+Revisited_; Low, _A Vision of India_ (describing the journey of the
+Prince of Wales in 1905-6); Caine, _Picturesque India_; _Things Seen in
+India_.
+
+For the history of India, some of the best books are Lane-Poole,
+_Medi�val India_ and _The Mogul Emperors_; Fanshawe, _Delhi, Past and
+Present_; McCrindle, _Ancient India_; Rhys-Davids, _British India_;
+Roberts, _Forty-one Tears in India_; Holmes, _History of the Indian
+Mutiny_; Innes, _The Sepoy Revolt_; Curzon, _Russia in Central Asia_;
+Colquhoun, _Russia Against India_.
+
+On the religions of India: Rhys-Davids, _Buddhism_; Warren, _Buddhism in
+Translations_; Clarke, _Ten Great Religions_; Hopkins, _Religions of
+India_; Arnold, _The Light of Asia_.
+
+
+EGYPT
+
+Egypt has changed so much during the last twenty years that books
+written before that time are practically obsolete. The dahabiyeh is no
+longer used for Nile travel, except by tourists of means and large
+leisure, since the tourist steamers make the trip up and down the Nile
+in one quarter the time consumed by the old sailing vessels. Cairo has
+been transformed into a European city and even Luxor is modernized, with
+its immense hotels and its big foreign winter colony.
+
+B�deker's Egypt is the best guide book, but be sure that you get the
+latest edition, as the work is revised every two or three years. The
+introductory essays in this volume on Egyptian history, religion, art
+and Egyptology are well worth careful reading. The descriptions of the
+ruins and the significance of many of the hieroglyphs are helpful. Of
+general descriptive works on Egypt, some of the best are Penfield,
+_Present Day Egypt_ (1899); Jeremiah Lynch, _Egyptian Sketches_, a book
+by a San Franciscan which gives a series of readable pictures of Cairo
+and the voyage up the Nile; Holland, _Things Seen in Egypt_.
+
+Of Egypt, before it was transformed by the British, standard
+works are Lane, _Cairo Fifty Tears Ago_; Lady Duff-Gordon, _Letters
+From Egypt_ (covering the period from 1862 to 1869). Good
+historical works are Lane-Poole, _Egypt, and the Story of Cairo_;
+Ebers, _Egypt, Descriptive, Historical, and Picturesque_.
+
+Of the administration of England in Egypt, the best book is
+Lord Cromer's _Modern Egypt_. Other works are Milner, _England
+in Egypt_; Colvin, _The Making of Modern Egypt_. The story of
+Gordon's death at Khartoum is well told in Stevens, _With Kitchener
+to Khartoum_ and Churchill, _The River War_.
+
+Several valuable works on Egyptian archeology have been written by
+Maspero and Flinders-Petrie. Maspero's _Art in Egypt_, which is lavishly
+illustrated, will be valuable as a guide book. Flinders-Petrie's
+_Egyptian Decorative Art_ is worth reading.
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+Agra, East Indian city of interesting features, 111;
+  the Taj Mahal, 112-116
+
+Arjmand, favorite wife of Shah Jehan, for whom the Taj was built, 112
+
+
+Benares, sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105;
+  bathing ghats along the Ganges, 100-102;
+  toll levied by priests on all bathers, 103;
+  burning the dead by the river banks, 104-105;
+  funeral ceremonies, 105
+
+Bombay, gateway of India, 123-134;
+  beauty of public buildings, 123-124;
+  the Apollo Bunder, 124;
+  importance of the Parsees in city life, 124-1126;
+  reception to King George V, 127;
+  holiday street scenes, 128;
+  religion and customs of the Parsees, 129-130;
+  wedding ceremonies, 132;
+  "Towers of Silence" where dead are exposed to vultures, 133-134
+
+Buddhism, temples at Nikko, 17;
+  greatest temple, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon, 90;
+  first residence of Buddha at Sarnath, near Benares, 100
+
+
+Cairo, the capital of Egypt, 137-142;
+  much Europeanized since Ismail's time, 138-139;
+  the Street of the Camel, 138-140;
+  Esbekiyeh Gardens, 140;
+  shopping in the great Muski bazar, 141;
+  Island of Roda, where Moses was found, 142;
+  scenes in the old native city, 142
+
+Calcutta, greatest commercial port of India, 95-99;
+  former capital, 95;
+  the Maidan or Esplanade, 95-96;
+  Eden Gardens, 95;
+  scene of the Black Hole, 96;
+  caste marks, 97;
+  scenes in bathing ghats on the Hoogly, 98;
+  native quarter, 98-99;
+  botanical gardens with great banyan tree, 99;
+  Imperial Museum, 99
+
+Canton, the great business center of China, 72-79;
+  exodus of people during revolution, 73;
+  boat city on the Pearl river, 73-74;
+  "hot-foot" boats, 75;
+  inside the ancient walls, 76-77;
+  deserted stores on main street, 76;
+  Buddhist Temple of Horrors, 77;
+  great rush of refugees, 77-78;
+  scene of the assassination of Tartar general, 78;
+  old Buddhist water clock, 78
+
+Cawnpore, scene of the worst massacre in the Sepoy mutiny, 109-110;
+  fatal mistake of General Wheeler, 109;
+  treachery of Nana Sahib, 110;
+  butchery of women and children, 110
+
+Chator, Sir Paul, who made Hongkong a great city, 81
+
+
+Delhi, ancient Mogul capital of India, 117-122;
+  tombs of Moslem emperors, 117-118;
+  squalor of common people, 119;
+  Mogul palaces and mosques, 119-120;
+  the Kutab Minar, 120-121;
+  memorials of the mutiny, 121-122;
+  fighting at Kabul gate, 122
+
+
+Egypt, the land of tombs, pyramids and mummies, 137-164;
+  railroad ride from Port Said, 138;
+  features of the country, 138-139;
+  Cairo and its picturesque life, 138-142;
+  Luxor and Karnak ruins of finest temples of ancient Egypt, 143-149;
+  Thebes, tomb city of the Egyptian Kings, 150-155;
+  sailing down the Nile, 156-160;
+  Pyramids and the Sphinx, 161-164
+
+
+Havelock, English General who fought his way into Lucknow and
+    helped defend the city against hordes of mutineers, 108
+
+Hideyoshi, Napoleon of Japan, his memory revered, 19;
+  his castle, 29
+
+Hongkong, greatest British port in the Orient, 65-71;
+  its fine public buildings and spacious water-front, 66;
+  splendid shops on Queen's road, 67;
+  picturesque street crowds, 68;
+  mixture of races, 68;
+  night scenes in native quarter, 69;
+  cable railway to the peak, 70;
+  costly residences on mountain side, 70;
+  Kowloon City, 71
+
+
+India, the most interesting country of the Orient, 95-104;
+  Calcutta, most beautiful of Indian cities, 95-99;
+  Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105;
+  Lucknow and Cawnpore, cities of the mutiny, 106-110;
+  Agra and the Taj Mahal, 111-116;
+  Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital and now the British
+    capital, 117-122;
+  Bombay, the European gateway of India, 123-134;
+  the Parsees and their curious customs, 129-134
+
+
+Japan, Yokohama, 3;
+  aspect of rural life, 4;
+  bull, the beast of burden 5;
+  the jinrikisha, 5;
+  great courtesy of all classes, 6;
+  women as field hands, 8;
+  Tokio, the picturesque capital, 10-15;
+  Nikko, city of temples, 16-21;
+  Kyoto, the ancient capital, famous for gardens and art work, 22-27;
+  railway travel, 22-23;
+  Kobe,28-33;
+  Osaka, chief manufacturing city, 29;
+  Inland Sea, 30;
+  Nagasaki, 30-32;
+  development of sense of beauty, 34-37;
+  influence of the garden on artistic sense, 34-35;
+  are the Japanese honest? 28-39;
+  influence of Christianity, 41-42;
+  the sampan, 43;
+  influence of military training, 45-46;
+  loyalty to country, 46-47
+
+
+Karnak, the greatest temple of ancient Egypt, 147-149;
+  its enormous size, 147;
+  its hypostile hall, one of the wonders of the world, 147-148;
+  hieroglyphs of Seti and Rameses, 148;
+  obelisks erected by Queen Hatasu, 148;
+  colossal statues and columns, 148;
+  cost in human life, 149
+
+Kobe, greatest commercial seaport of Japan, 28-29;
+  its many foreign schools, colleges and missions, 28
+
+Kyoto, ancient Japanese capital, 22-27;
+  richly decorated temples, 24;
+  satsuma, cloissone and damascene work, 24-25;
+  attractive shops, 26;
+  great bronze Daibutsa, 26;
+  oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, 27
+
+
+Lawrence, Sir Henry, to whose wise precautions the British in Lucknow
+    owed their lives during the mutiny; he was killed in the early
+    days of the siege, 107.
+
+Lucknow, scene of the most famous siege in the Indian mutiny, 106-109;
+  ruins of the Residency, 106;
+  story of the siege, 107-108;
+  memorial tablets to British heroes, 108
+
+Luxor, with ruins of the finest temple in Egypt, 143-146;
+  built by Amenophis III; restored and enlarged by
+    Rameses II, 143-144;
+  plan of the temple, 144-145;
+  Rameses exposed by Egyptologists, 146;
+  temple of Karnak, 147-149
+
+
+Manila, capital of Philippines and American naval base in
+    Far East, 51-62;
+  hospitality of Americans, 52;
+  reenforced concrete favorite building material, 52;
+  its splendid docks, 52;
+  the Escolta, 52;
+  the Bridge of Spain, 53;
+  the carabao or water buffalo, 53;
+  old walled city, 54;
+  historical gates, 54;
+  famous churches, 55;
+  doors open to the ambitious Filipino youths, 56;
+  influence of American schools, 56-57;
+  Dr. George W. Wright on religious work in Philippines, 56-57;
+  sanitary reforms which have made Manila healthy port, 57;
+  work of the Constabulary Guard, 58;
+  scenes on the Luneta, 60;
+  nipa huts of natives, 61-62;
+  fondness of people for music, 62;
+  American gramophones in native huts, 62
+
+
+Nana Sahib, the evil genius of the Indian mutiny, who broke faith
+    with prisoners at Cawnpore, shot the men, and ordered
+    125 women and children butchered and cast into a well, 109
+
+Nara, seat of oldest temples in Japan, 26-27;
+  tame deer in park, 26
+
+Nicholson, John, Brigadier-General, the ablest man the Indian mutiny
+    produced, 121;
+  he led the British march on Delhi and fell at the storming of
+    the Lahore gate, 122
+
+Nagasaki, great Japanese seaport, 30-33;
+  girls coaling steamers, 31-32;
+  trip to Mogi, 33
+
+Nikko, the Japanese city of temples, 16-21;
+  eighth century Buddhist temple, 17;
+  Sacred Red Bridge, 17;
+  imperial tombs, 17-19;
+  school pilgrimages, 19;
+  famous cryptomeria avenue to Imaichi, 20-21
+
+Nile, sailing down the, 156-160;
+  importance of river to Egypt, 156;
+  ancient method of irrigation by shadouf, 157-158;
+  poor pay for hard work, 158;
+  prevalence of eye diseases, 159;
+  squalid homes of the natives, 160;
+  beauty of views along the Nile, 160
+
+
+Osaka, Japan's chief manufacturing city, 29;
+  Hideyoshi's castle, 29
+
+
+Parsees, importance in municipal life of Bombay, 129;
+  religion that of Zoroaster, 129-130;
+  gifts by rich Parsee merchants, 131;
+  quaint marriage customs, 132;
+  towers of silence where dead are exposed, 133-135
+
+Pyramids, among the oldest human work on earth, 161-163;
+  size and cost of construction, 162-163;
+  ascent of Gizeh, 163;
+  features of the Sphinx, 164;
+  rock tombs of Sakkara, 164
+
+
+Raffles, Sir Stamford, the maker of Singapore and founder of great
+    Malayan museum, 81
+
+Rangoon, Burma's largest city, 89-92;
+  elephants piling teak, 89-90;
+  Shwe Dagon Pagoda, center of the Buddhist faith in Orient, 90-91;
+  splendid decoration of shrines, 91-92
+
+
+Shah Jehan, the greatest builder among the Mogul Emperors of India,
+    who immortalized his name by erecting the Taj Mahal, 112
+
+Singapore, gateway to the Far East, 80-88;
+  humidity of atmosphere, 80;
+  world's largest dry dock, 81;
+  Sir Stamford Raffles, 81;
+  great mixture of races, 81-82;
+  traits of the Malay, 83;
+  importance of Chinese, 84-85;
+  night scenes in Malay and Chinese quarters, 85-87;
+  large opium dens, 87;
+  fine botanical gardens, 88
+
+
+Taj Mahal, the world's most beautiful building at Agra, India, 111-116;
+  built by Shah Jehan as memorial to favorite wife, 112;
+  cost in money and human life, 112;
+  its perfect architecture, 114;
+  lavish decoration, 115;
+  restoration by Lord Curzon, 116
+
+Thebes, tomb city of the ancient Egyptian kings, 150-155;
+  desolate site across the Nile from Luxor, 150-151;
+  electric-lighted tombs, 151;
+  rock-hewn tomb of Rameses IV, 152;
+  tombs of other monarchs, 152-153;
+  only one contains royal mummy, 154;
+  fine temple of Queen Hatasu, 153;
+  the Ramessium, with largest statue found in Egypt, 154;
+  Colossi of Memnon, 154;
+  why one of the statues was musical, 155
+
+Tokio, the Japanese capital, 10-15;
+  its splendid parks, 11-13-14;
+  imperial palace, 13;
+  tombs of six shoguns, 14;
+  night work in shops, 15
+
+
+Wheeler, General, whose confidence in his native troops,
+    cost the lives of all the garrison of Cawnpore, 109
+
+
+Yokohama, much Europeanized Japanese city, 3;
+  good tourist outfitting point, 4
+
+
+
+
+   AND SO ENDS THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT, CONTAINING
+    THE IMPRESSIONS OF GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH ON THE
+  FIRST HALF OF HIS TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. PUBLISHED
+         IN BOOK FORM BY PAUL ELDER & COMPANY
+     AND SEEN THROUGH THEIR TOMOYE PRESS BY JOHN
+     SWART DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL, MCMXIII, IN
+              THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:
+
+Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (hotfoot,
+hot-foot)
+
+In the original text, captions of plates and illustrations did not have
+terminating punctuation except for the caption of Plate XXXVII. This
+caption had a terminating period which has been retained.
+
+In the original text, italic typeface was used for the entire text and
+headings of the chapters "Introduction" and "The Best Results of Travel
+in the Orient". In the plaintext version of this ebook, the usual
+underscore markup has not been used to indicate italic type in these
+chapters. Elsewhere in the text, occasional words in italic typeface
+have been marked up with underscores.
+
+Pg. 12, unusual spelling of "embassadors" retained.
+
+Pg. 12, duplicated word "of" removed. (mansions of the Japanese")
+
+Pg. 112, duplicated word "on" removed. (little trace on its walls)
+
+Pg. 161, "hugh" changed to "huge". (as huge as the pyramid)
+
+Index. In the original text, the last sub-item of an index entry did not
+end with any terminating punctuation except for the index entry
+"Lawrence, Sir Henry". This entry had a terminating period which
+has been retained.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Critic in the Orient
+
+Author: George Hamlin Fitch
+
+Release Date: November 11, 2008 [EBook #27233]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>
+THE CRITIC<br />
+IN THE ORIENT
+</h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a></p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" summary="frontispiece">
+<tr><td class="tdcapleft">
+The Taj Mahal at<br />
+Agra. This Tomb,<br />
+Built by Shah Jahan<br />
+to Immortalize His<br />
+Favorite Wife, Is<br />
+Conceded to be the<br />
+Most Beautiful<br />
+Building  in the World<br />
+"Matchless, perfect in<br />
+form, a miracle<br />
+Of grace and tenderness<br />
+and symmetry,<br />
+Pearl-pure against the<br />
+sapphire of the<br />
+sky"<br />
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><img class="imgborder" src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="Taj Mahal" />
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr />
+<h1>THE CRITIC<br />
+IN THE ORIENT</h1>
+
+<p class="title">
+GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH<br />
+<small>AUTHOR OF<br />
+"COMFORT FOUND IN GOOD OLD BOOKS"<br />
+"MODERN ENGLISH BOOKS OF POWER"<br />
+"THE CRITIC IN THE OCCIDENT"</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>East is East and West is West and<br />
+never the twain shall meet,<br />
+Till Earth and Sky stand presently<br />
+at God's great Judgment Seat.<br />
+&mdash;Kipling</i></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="title">
+<small>ILLUSTRATED<br />
+FROM<br />
+PHOTOGRAPHS</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<p class="title">PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY<br />
+PUBLISHERS &#8226; SAN FRANCISCO</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+<i>Copyright, 1913</i><br />
+<i>by</i> <span class="smcap">Paul Elder and Company</span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+The chapters of this<br />
+book appeared originally in the<br />
+Sunday supplement of the San Francisco <i>Chronicle</i>.<br />
+The privilege of reproducing them<br />
+here is due to the courtesy of<br />
+M. H. de Young, Esq.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+The author is greatly<br />
+indebted to Isaac O. Upham, Esq.,<br />
+for the fine photographs which illustrate the<br />
+section on Japan and for several<br />
+photographs of Indian<br />
+scenes</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p class="title">
+TO MY FELLOW TOURISTS<br />
+ON THE MINNESOTA, WHOSE<br />
+COMPANIONSHIP MADE MANY<br />
+TEDIOUS JOURNEYS BY LAND<br />
+AND SEA ENJOYABLE</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Contents</span></h2>
+
+<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+
+<tr><td></td><td class="tocpg"><small><span class="smcap">Page</span></small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc" style="padding-top: 0em;">Introduction</td><td class="tocpg" style="padding-top:0.5em;"><a href="#Page_ix">IX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc">The Best Results of Travel in the Orient</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_xiii">XIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Japan, The Picture Country of the Orient</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+First Impressions of Japan and the Life of the Japanese&mdash;&#8203;The
+Japanese Capital and its Parks and Temples&mdash;The
+Most Famous City of Temples in all Japan&mdash;&#8203;In Kyoto,
+The Ancient Capital of Japan&mdash;&#8203;Kobe, Osaka, The Inland
+Sea and Nagasaki&mdash;&#8203;Development of the Japanese Sense of
+Beauty&mdash;&#8203;Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character&mdash;&#8203;Will
+the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Manila, Transformed by the Americans</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People&mdash;&#8203;American
+Work in the Philippine Islands&mdash;&#8203;Scenes in the
+City of Manila and Suburbs.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Hongkong, Canton, Singapore and Rangoon</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient&mdash;&#8203;A
+Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic&mdash;&#8203;Singapore, the
+Meeting Place of Many Races&mdash;&#8203;Strange Night Scenes in
+the City of Singapore&mdash;&#8203;Characteristic Sights in Burma's
+Largest City.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">India, The Land of Temples, Palaces and Monuments</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+Calcutta, the Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities&mdash;&#8203;Bathing,
+and Burning the Dead at Benares&mdash;&#8203;Lucknow and Cawnpore,
+Cities of the Mutiny&mdash;&#8203;The Taj Mahal, the World's
+Loveliest Building&mdash;&#8203;Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan
+Ruins&mdash;&#8203;Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived&mdash;&#8203;Religion
+and Customs of the Bombay Parsees.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Egypt, The Home of Hieroglyphs, Tombs and Mummies</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_135">135</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo&mdash;&#8203;Among the
+Ruins of Luxor and Karnak&mdash;&#8203;Tombs of The Kings at
+Ancient Thebes&mdash;&#8203;Sailing Down the Nile on a Small
+Steamer&mdash;&#8203;Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Hints for Travelers</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_167">167</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and
+Money.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Bibliography</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_171">171</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr><td class="toc2">
+Books Which Help One to Understand the Orient and
+Its People.
+</td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="toc">Index</td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p>
+<h2><span class="smcap">Illustrations</span></h2>
+
+<table style="margin-top: 0.5em;" border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations">
+
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="illopg"><small><span class="smcap">Page</span></small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">The Taj Mahal at Agra</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#frontis"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko</td><td class="illopg"><i>Facing</i></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#yomei">14</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha at Hyogo</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#Daibutsu">30</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#imperial">56</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">The City of Boats at Canton</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#canton">74</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#benares">100</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">Front View of the Taj Mahal, Agra</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#taj">114</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">One of the Main Avenues of Bombay</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#bombay">126</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo">The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak</td><td></td><td class="illopg"><a href="#karnak">146</a></td></tr>
+
+
+</table>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Plates</span></h2>
+
+<table style="margin-top: 0.5em;" border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Plates">
+
+<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="illopg"><small><span class="smcap">Plate</span></small></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td class="illo"><span class="smcap">Japan</span></td><td class="illopg"><i>Following page</i> 48</td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Street Scene, Asakusa Park, Tokyo</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate1">I</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Entrance Hall of Modern Home of a Tokyo Millionaire</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate2">II</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Bronze Lanterns and Sacred Fountain, Shiba Temple, Tokyo</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate3">III</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Sacred Red Bridge at Nikko</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate4">IV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate5">V</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate6">VI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Great Bronze Torii, Nikko</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate7">VII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate8">VIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Religious Procession, Kyoto</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate9">IX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Scene on Canal, Kyoto</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate10">X</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Street Scene in Kobe</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate11">XI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Group of Japanese Schoolboys</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate12">XII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate13">XIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Scene in Large Private Garden, Kyoto</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate14">XIV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Iris Bed at Horikiri, near Tokyo</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate15">XV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Private Garden, Kamakura</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate16">XVI</a></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td class="illo" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Manila</span></td><td class="illopg" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><i>Following page</i> 62</td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Glimpse of the Escolta, Manila</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate17">XVII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Old Church and Bridge at Pasig</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate18">XVIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Binondo Canal at Manila</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate19">XIX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">On the Malecon Drive, Manila</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate20">XX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">View on a Manila Canal</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate21">XXI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Filipino Peasant Girl on the Way to Market</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate22">XXII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Carabao Cart in the Philippines</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate23">XXIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Nipa Hut of the Filipino</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate24">XXIV</a></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td class="illo" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span>
+Hongkong, Canton, Singapore, Rangoon</span></td><td class="illopg" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><i>Following page</i> 91</td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Queen's Road in Hongkong.</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate25">XXV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Flower Market in a Hongkong Street</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate26">XXVI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Coolies Carrying Burdens at Hongkong</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate27">XXVII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Spacious Foreign Bund at Hongkong</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate28">XXVIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Chinese Junks in Hongkong Harbor</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate29">XXIX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">View of the Water-front at Canton</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate30">XXX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The New Chinese Bund at Canton</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate31">XXXI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Confucian Festival at Singapore</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate32">XXXII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Main Street in the Native Quarter of Singapore</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate33">XXXIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Y. M. C. A. Building at Singapore</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate34">XXXIV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate35">XXXV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate36">XXXVI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Burmese Worshipping in the Pagoda at Rangoon</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate37">XXXVII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Riverside Scene at Rangoon</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate38">XXXVIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Trained Elephant Piling Teak at Rangoon</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate39">XXXIX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate40">XL</a></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td class="illo" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">India</span></td><td class="illopg" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><i>Following page</i> 134</td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">One of the Main Gates to Government House, Calcutta</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate41">XLI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Street Scene in Calcutta</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate42">XLII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Great Burning Ghat at Benares</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate43">XLIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">View of the Bathing Ghats at Benares</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate44">XLIV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Holy Man of Benares Under His Umbrella</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate45">XLV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Residency at Lucknow</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate46">XLVI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet at Agra</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate47">XLVII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate48">XLVIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate49">XLIX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Jasmine Tower in Agra Fort</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate50">L</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Snap-shot of a Jain Family at Agra</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate51">LI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Fort at Agra Which Encloses Many Palaces</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate52">LII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate53">LIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth, Delhi</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate54">LIV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Street View in Delhi</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate55">LV</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Parsee Tower of Silence at Bombay</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate56">LVI</a></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td class="illo" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Egypt</span></td><td class="illopg" style="padding-top: 1.5em;"><i>Following page</i> 164</td><td></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">A Typical Street in Old Cairo</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate57">LVII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">An Arab Cafe in One of Cairo's Streets</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate58">LVIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate59">LIX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Rameseon at Karnak</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate60">LX</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate61">LXI</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">An Arab Village on the Nile</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate62">LXII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate63">LXIII</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" class="illo2">The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple Underneath</td><td class="illopg"><a href="#plate64">LXIV</a></td></tr>
+
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>Introduction</i></h2>
+
+<p class="p3"><i>This book of impressions of the Far East is called "The Critic in the
+Orient," because the writer for over thirty years has been a
+professional critic of new books&mdash;one trained to get at the best in all
+literary works and reveal it to the reader. This critical work&mdash;a
+combination of rapid reading and equally rapid written estimate of new
+publications&mdash;would have been deadly, save for a love of books, so deep
+and enduring that it has turned drudgery into pastime and an enthusiasm
+for discovering good things in every new book which no amount of
+literary trash was ever able to smother.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>After years of such strenuous critical work, the mind becomes molded in
+a certain cast. It is as impossible for me to put aside the habit of the
+literary critic as it would be for a hunter who had spent his whole life
+in the woods to be content in a great city. So when I started out on
+this trip around the world the critical apparatus which I had used in
+getting at the heart of books was applied to the people and the places
+along this great girdle about the globe.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Much of the benefit of foreign travel depends upon the reading that one
+has done. For years my eager curiosity about places had led me to read
+everything printed about the Orient and the South Seas. Add to this the
+stories which were brought into a newspaper office by globe trotters and
+adventurers, and you have an equipment which made me at times seem to be
+merely revising impressions made on an earlier journey. When you talk
+with a man who has spent ten or twenty years in Japan or China or the
+Straits Settlements, you cannot fail to get something of the color of
+life in those strange lands, especially if you have the newspaper
+training <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span>which impels you to ask questions and to drag out of your
+informant everything of human interest that the reader will care to
+know.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>This newspaper instinct, which is developed by training but which one
+must possess in large measure before he can be successful in journalism,
+seizes upon everything and transmutes it into "copy" for the printer. To
+have taken this journey without setting down every day my impressions of
+places and people would have been a tiresome experience. What seemed
+labor to others who had not had my special training was as the breath in
+my nostrils. Even in the debilitating heat of the tropics it was always
+a pastime, never a task, to put into words my ideas of the historic
+places which I knew so well from years of reading and which I had just
+seen. And the richer the background of history, the greater was my
+enjoyment in painting with words full of color a picture of my
+impressions, for the benefit of those who were not able to share my
+pleasure in the actual sight of these famous places of the Far East.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>From the mass of newspaper letters written while every impression was
+sharp and clear, I have selected what seemed to me most significant and
+illustrative. It is only when the traveler looks back over a journey
+that he gets the true perspective. Then only is he able to see what is
+of general and permanent interest. Most of the vexations of travel I
+have eliminated, as these lose their force once they have gone over into
+yesterday. What remains is the beauty of scenery, the grandeur of
+architecture, the spiritual quality of famous paintings and statues, the
+appealing traits of various peoples.</i></p>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="title"><i>The Best<br />
+Results of Travel in<br />
+the Orient</i></p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p>
+<h2><i>The Best Results of Travel in the Orient</i></h2>
+
+
+<p class="p3"><i>This volume includes impressions of the first half of a trip around the
+world. The remainder of the journey will fill a companion volume, which
+will comprise two chapters devoted to New York and the effect it
+produced on me after seeing the great cities of the world. As I have
+said in the preface, these are necessarily first impressions, jotted
+down when fresh and clear; but it is doubtful whether a month spent in
+any of these places would have forced a revision of these first
+glimpses, set in the mordant of curiosity and enthusiasm. When the mind
+is saturated with the literature of a place, it is quick to seize on
+what appeals to the imagination, and this appeal is the one which must
+be considered in every case where there is an historical or legendary
+background to give salient relief to palace or temple, statue or
+painting. Without this background the noblest work seems dull and
+lifeless. With it the palace stamps itself upon the imagination, the
+temple stirs the emotions, the statue speaks, the painting has a direct
+spiritual message.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Certain parts of the Orient are not rich in this imaginative material
+which appeals to one fond of history or art; but this defect is
+compensated for by an extraordinary picturesqueness of life and a
+wonderful luxuriance of nature. The Oriental trip also makes less demand
+on one's reading than even a hasty journey through Europe. There are few
+pictures, few statues. Only India and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span>Egypt appeal to the sense of the
+historical, Japan stands alone, alien to all our ways of life and
+thought, but so intensely artistic, so saturated with the intellectual
+spirit that it seems to belong to another world than this material,
+commercial existence that stamps all European and American life. The new
+China furnishes an attractive field of study, but unfortunately when I
+visited the country it was in the throes of revolution and travel was
+dangerous anywhere outside the great treaty ports.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>One of the best results of foreign travel is that it makes one revise
+his estimate of alien races. When I started out it was with a strong
+prejudice against the Japanese, probably due to my observation of some
+rather unlovely specimens whom I had encountered in San Francisco. A
+short stay in Japan served to give me a new point of view in regard to
+both the people and the country of the Mikado. It was impossible to
+escape from the fact that here is a race which places loyalty to country
+and personal honor higher than life, and this sentiment was not confined
+to the educated and wealthy classes but was general throughout the
+nation. Here also is a people so devoted to the culture of beauty that
+they travel hundreds of miles to see the annual chrysanthemum and other
+flower festivals. And here is a people so devoted to art for art's sake
+that even the poor and uneducated have little gardens in their back
+yards and houses which reveal a refined taste in architecture and
+decoration. The poorest artisans are genuine artists and their work
+shows a beauty and a finish only to be found in the work of the highest
+designers in our country.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In one chapter of the section on Japan, I have dwelt on the ingenious
+theory that it is their devotion to the garden that has kept the
+Japanese from being spoiled by the great strides they have made in the
+last twenty years in commerce and conquest. To take foremost place
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span>among the powers of the world without any preliminary struggle is an
+achievement which well might turn the heads of any people; yet this
+exploit has simply confirmed the Japanese in the opinion that their
+national training has resulted in this success that other nations have
+won only by the expenditure of years of labor and study. When you see
+the reverence which every one in Japan shows at the tombs of the
+Forty-seven Ronins, you feel that here is a spiritual force which is
+lacking in every European country; here is something, whether you call
+it loyalty or patriotism or fanaticism, which makes even the women and
+children of Japan eager to sacrifice all that they hold most dear on the
+altar of their country. No less striking than their loyalty is the
+courtesy of the Japanese which makes travel in their country a pleasure.
+Even the poor and ignorant country people show in their mutual relations
+a politeness that would do credit to the most civilized race, while all
+exhibit toward foreigners a courtesy and consideration that is often
+repaid by boorishness and insult on the part of tourists and foreign
+residents of Japan. Another feature of Japanese life that cannot fail to
+impress the stranger is the small weight that is given to wealth. In
+their relations with foreigners the governing class and the wealthy
+people are sticklers for all the conventional forms; but among
+themselves the simplicity of their social life is very attractive.
+Elaborate functions are unknown and changes of costume, which make
+women's dress so large an item of family expense in any European
+country, are unnecessary. Some of the rich Japanese are now lavishing
+money on their homes, which are partly modeled on European plans; but in
+the main the residences, even of rich people, are very simple and
+unpretentious. These homes are filled with priceless porcelains, jades,
+paintings and prints, but there is no display merely for the sake of
+exhibiting art treasures.</i></p>
+
+<p><i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span>In Manila the American tourist has a good opportunity to contrast what
+has been done by his countrymen with what the British have accomplished
+in ports like Hongkong and Singapore. Doubtless the English plan will
+show the larger financial returns, but it is carried out with a selfish
+disregard of the interests of the natives which stirs the gorge of an
+American. The Englishman believes in keeping a wide gulf between the
+dominant and the humble classes. He does not believe in educating the
+native to think that he can rise from the class in which he is born. The
+American scheme in the Philippines has been to encourage the development
+of character and efficiency, wherever found; and the result is that many
+public positions are open to men who were head-hunting savages ten years
+ago. Above all other things in the Philippines we have proved, as we
+have shown at Panama, that a tropical climate need not be an unhealthful
+one. We have banished from Manila cholera, yellow fever and bubonic
+plague&mdash;three pests that once made it dreaded in the Orient. This, with
+an ample water supply, is an achievement worthy of pride, when one
+contrasts it with the unsanitary sewerage system of Hongkong and
+Singapore.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>The small part of the great Chinese Empire which I was able to see gave
+me a vivid impression of the activity and enthusiasm of the people in
+spreading the new Republican doctrines. The way old things have been put
+aside and the new customs adopted seems almost like a miracle. Fancy a
+whole people discarding their time-honored methods of examination for
+the civil service, along with their queues, their caps and their shoes.
+All the authorities have predicted that China would be centuries in
+showing the same changes which the Japanese have made in a single
+generation; but recent events go far to prove that Japan will be
+outstripped in the race for progress by its slow-going neighbor. What
+profoundly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</a></span>impresses any visitor to China is the stamina and the
+working capacity of the common people. Tireless laborers these Chinese
+are, whether they work for themselves or the European. What they will be
+able to accomplish with labor-saving machinery no one can predict.
+Certainly should they accept modern methods of work, with the same
+enthusiasm that they have adopted new methods of government, the markets
+of the world will be upset by the product of these four hundred million.
+China is to-day in transformation&mdash;fluctuant, far-reaching, limited only
+by the capacity of a singularly excitable people to absorb new ideas.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In India great is the contrast to China and Japan. Here is an old
+civilization, founded on caste: here are many peoples but all joined to
+the worship of a system that says the son must follow in the footsteps
+of the father; that one cannot break bread with a stranger of another
+caste lest he and his tribe be defiled. Nothing more hideous was ever
+conceived than this Indian caste system, yet it has held its own against
+the force of foreign learning and probably will continue to fetter the
+development of the natives of India for centuries to come. Some simple
+reforms the English have secured, like the abolition of suttee and the
+improved condition of the child widows; but their influence on the great
+mass of the people has been pitiably small. India bears the same
+relation to the Orient that Italy does to Europe. It is the home of
+temples, palaces and monuments; it is the land of beautiful art work in
+many materials. Most of its cities have a splendid historical past that
+is seen in richly ornamented temples and shrines, in the tombs of its
+illustrious dead and in palaces that surpass in beauty of decoration
+anything which Europe can boast.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In considering India it must always be borne in mind that here was the
+original seat of the Aryan civilization and that, though the Hindoo is
+as dark as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</a></span>many of the American negroes, he is of Aryan stock like
+ourselves. In comparison with the men who carried Aryan civilization
+throughout the world, the Hindoo of to-day is as far removed as is the
+modern Greek from the Greek of the time of Pericles and Phidias. Yet he
+shows all the signs of race in clear-cut features and in small hands and
+feet.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>The journey throughout India is one which calls for some philosophy, as
+the train arrangements are never good and, unless one has the luck to
+secure a competent guide, he will be annoyed by the excessive greed of
+every one with whom he comes in contact. But aside from such troubles
+the trip is one which richly repays the traveler. If one has time it is
+admirable to go off the beaten track to some of the minor places which
+have fine historical remains; but a good idea of India may be obtained
+by taking the regular route from Calcutta to Bombay, by way of Delhi.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In Benares the tourist first meets the swarms of beggars that make life
+a burden. Aged men, with loathsome sores, stand whining at corners
+beseeching the favor of a two-anna piece; blind men, led by small,
+skinny children, set up a mournful wail and then curse you fluently when
+you pass them by, and scores of children rise up out of hovels at the
+roadside and pursue your carriage with shrill screams. All are filthy,
+clamorous, greedy, inexpressibly offensive. If you are soft hearted and
+give to one, then your day is made hideous by a swarm of mendicants,
+tireless in pursuit and only kept from actual invasion of the carriage
+by fear of the driver's whip.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>The feature which makes travel on Indian railways a weariness of the
+flesh is the roughness of the cars. Each truck on the passenger cars is
+provided with two large wheels, exactly like those on freight cars, and
+these wheels have wooden felloes and spokes. With poor springs the
+result is that though the road-bed is perfect <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[xix]</a></span>the cars are as rough as
+our freight cars. When the speed is over twenty-five miles an hour or
+the road is crooked, the motion of the cars is well nigh intolerable.
+Ordinarily the motion is so great that reading is difficult and writing
+out of the question. At night the jar of the car is so severe that one
+must be very tired or very phlegmatic to get any refreshing sleep. When
+one travels all day and all night at a stretch&mdash;as in the journey from
+Jeypore to Bombay&mdash;the fatigue is out of all proportion to the distance
+covered. In fact Americans have been spoiled by the comforts of Pullman
+sleeping-cars, in which foreign critics find so many flaws. Probably the
+chief annoyance to our party of Americans, aside from the jar of the
+cars, was the dust and soot which poured in day and night. The engines
+burn soft coal and the dust on the road-beds is excessive. A system of
+double windows and well-fitting screens would remove this nuisance, but
+apparently the British in India think dust and grime necessary features
+of railway travel, for no effort is made to eliminate them.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>No Oriental trip would be complete without a visit to Egypt, and
+especially a ride on the Nile. It is more difficult to make anyone
+realize the charm of Egypt than of any other country of the Orient. The
+people are dirty, ignorant, brutish: their faces contain no appeal
+because they are the faces of Millet's "The Man With the Hoe." Centuries
+of subjection have killed the pride which still lingers in the face and
+bearing of the poorest Arab; the Egyptian peasant does not wear the
+collar of Gurth, but he is a slave of the soil whose day of freedom is
+afar off. Yet these degenerate people are seen against a background of
+the most imposing ruins in the world. Luxor and Karnak and the tombs of
+the kings near old Thebes contain enough remains of the splendor of
+ancient Egyptian life to permit study for years. The mind is appalled by
+this mass of temples, monuments, obelisks and colossal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[xx]</a></span>statues. It is
+difficult to realize that the same people who are seen toiling in the
+fields to-day raised these huge monuments to perpetuate the names of
+their rulers. A climate as dry as that of the Colorado desert has
+preserved these remains, so that in the rock tombs one may gaze upon
+brightly painted hieroglyphs of the time of Moses that look as though
+they were carved yesterday.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In this Oriental tour the stamp of strange religions is over all the
+lands. The temple is the keynote of each race. And religion with the
+Oriental is not a matter of one day's worship in seven: it is a vital,
+daily function into which he puts all the dreamy mysticism of his race.
+The first sight of several Mohammedans bowed in the dust by the
+roadside, with their faces set toward Mecca, gives one a strange thrill,
+but this spectacle soon loses its novelty. Everywhere in the Far East
+religion is a matter of form and ceremony: it includes regular visits to
+the temple and regular prayers and offerings to the deities enshrined in
+these houses of worship. But it also includes a daily ritual that must
+be observed at certain fixed hours, even though the believer may be in
+the midst of the crowded market place. The spiritual isolation of an
+Oriental at his prayers in any big city of the Far East is the most
+significant feature of this life&mdash;so alien to all the mental, moral, and
+religious training of the Occident. Vain is it for one of Anglo-Saxon
+strain to attempt to bridge this abyss that lies between his mind and
+that of the Burman or the Parsee. Each lives in a spiritual world of his
+own and each would be homesick for heaven were he transferred to the
+ideal paradise of the other. So the traveler in the Orient should give
+heed to the temples, for in them is voiced the spiritual aspirations of
+the people, who have little of comfort or hope to cheer them in this
+world.</i></p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+<h2>
+JAPAN, THE<br />
+PICTURE COUNTRY OF<br />
+THE ORIENT<br />
+</h2>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p>
+<h3>First Impressions of Japan and The Life of The Japanese</h3>
+
+
+<p>Yokohama looks very beautiful to the traveler who has spent over two
+weeks on the long sea voyage from Seattle; but it has little to commend
+it to the tourist, for most of its native traits have been Europeanized.
+It is noteworthy, however, as the best place except Hongkong for the
+traveler to purchase an oriental outfit and it is probably the cheapest
+place in the world for trunks and bags and all leather goods. Its bund,
+or water-front, is spacious and its leading hotels are very comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>Of Japan and the Japanese, all that can be given are a few general
+impressions of the result of two weeks of constant travel over the
+empire and of talks with many people.</p>
+
+<p>Of the country itself, the prevailing impression of the tourist, who
+crosses it on the railroad or who takes rides through the paddy fields
+in a rickshaw, is of a perennial greenness. Instead of the tawny yellow
+of California in October, one sees here miles on miles of rice fields,
+some of vivid green, others of green turning to gold. The foothills of
+the mountains remind one of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, as they
+all bear evidences of the rounding and smoothing of glacial action.</p>
+
+<p>At a distance the rice fields look like grain fields, but seen near at
+hand they are found to be great swamps of water, with row on row of
+rice, the dead <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>furrows either serving as ditches or as raised paths
+across the fields. Every bit of hillside is terraced and planted to rice
+or vegetables or fruit.</p>
+
+<p>Often these little, terraced fields, which look like the natural mesa of
+southern California, will not be over fifty feet long by ten or fifteen
+feet wide. Between the rows of fruit trees are vegetables or corn or
+sorghum. The farmers live in little villages and apparently go home
+every night after tilling their fields. There are none of the scattered
+farmhouses, with trees around them, which are so characteristic a
+feature of any American rural scene.</p>
+
+<p>The towns as well as the cities show a uniformity of architecture, as
+most of the shops are one story or a story and one-half, while the
+residences seem to be built on a uniform plan, with great variety in
+gateways and decoration of grounds. Most of the roofs are made of a
+black clay, corrugated so that it looks like the Spanish-American tile,
+and many of the walls that surround residences and temples are of adobe,
+with a tiled covering, precisely as one sees to-day the remains of adobe
+walls in old Spanish-Californian towns.</p>
+
+<p>The general impression of any Japanese city when seen from a height is
+that of a great expanse of low buildings with a liberal sprinkling of
+trees and a few pagodas or roofs of Buddhist temples.</p>
+
+<p>The strongest impression that the unprejudiced observer receives in
+Japan is of the small value set upon labor as well as upon time by the
+great mass of the people. In Yokohama and in Kobe, which show the most
+signs of foreign influence, the same traits prevail.</p>
+
+<p>It is one of the astonishing spectacles of the world, this
+accomplishment of the business of a great nation by man power alone.
+Only in one city, Osaka, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>Chicago of Japan, is there any general
+evidence of the adoption of up-to-date methods in manufacturing.
+Everywhere one sees all the small industries of the country carried on
+in the same way that they were conducted in Palestine in the time of
+Christ.</p>
+
+<p>Everywhere men, harnessed to heavy push carts, are seen straining to
+haul loads that are enough for a horse. The few horses in the cities are
+used for heavy trucks, in common with bulls, for the Japanese bull is a
+beast of burden and not one of the lords of creation as in our own
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The bull is harnessed with a short neckyoke and a saddle on his back,
+which bears a close resemblance to the riding saddle of the Cossack.
+Some rope traces are hitched to crude, home-made whiffletrees. The bull,
+as well as the horse, is guided by a rope line. The carts are remarkably
+heavy, with wheels of great weight, yet many of these carts are pulled
+by two men.</p>
+
+<p>In the big cities may be seen a few victorias, or other carriages, and
+an occasional motor car, but both these means of conveyance can be used
+with safety only on the broadest avenues. In the narrow streets of the
+native quarter, which seldom exceed ten feet in width and which have no
+sidewalks, the jinrikisha is the only carriage. This is a light,
+two-wheeled gig, drawn by one man and frequently on the steep grades
+pushed from the back by a second man. The rickshaw man has a bell gong
+on one shaft, which he rings when approaching a sharp turn in the street
+or when he sees several trucks or other rickshaws approaching. The bell
+also serves to warn old people or children who may be careless, for the
+rickshaw has the right of way and the pedestrian must turn to either
+side to give it the road. Americans, who are far more considerate of the
+feelings of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>the Japanese than other foreigners, frequently may be seen
+walking up the steep grades in such hilly cities as Nikko, Nara and
+Kobe, but long residence in Japan is said to make everyone callous of
+the straining and the sweating of the rickshaw man.</p>
+
+<p>Purposely my itinerary included a number of little towns, which
+practically have been uninfluenced by foreign customs. In these places
+may be seen the primitive Japanese life, unchanged for hundreds of
+years. Yet everywhere one cannot fail to be impressed by the tireless
+industry of the people, and by their general good nature and courtesy.</p>
+
+<p>In any other country in the world, a party of Americans with their
+foreign dress would have provoked some insulting remarks, some gestures
+that could not be mistaken; but here in rural Japan was seen the same
+perfect courtesy shown in the Europeanized sections of the big cities.
+The people, to be sure, made no change in their way of life. Mothers
+suckled their infants in front of their little shops, and children stood
+naked and unashamed, lost in wonder over the strange spectacle of the
+party of foreign people that dashed by in rickshaws.</p>
+
+<p>Naked men, with only a G-string to distinguish them from the costume of
+Adam before the expulsion from Eden, labored at many tasks, and
+frequently our little cavalcade swept by the great Government schools
+where hundreds of little Japanese are being educated to help out the
+manifest destiny of the empire.</p>
+
+<p>This courtesy and good nature among the poorest class of the Japanese
+people is not confined to their treatment of foreigners; it extends to
+all their daily relations with one another. A nearly naked coolie
+pulling a heavy cart begs a light for his cigarette with a bow that
+would do honor to a Chesterfield.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>A street blockade that in New York or San Francisco would not be
+untangled without much profanity and some police interference is cleared
+here in a moment because everyone is willing to yield and to recognize
+that the most heavily burdened has the right of way.</p>
+
+<p>In all my wanderings by day or night in the large Japanese cities I
+never except once saw a policeman lift his, hand to exercise his
+authority. This exception was in Tokio, where a band of mischievous
+schoolboys was following a party of gayly dressed ladies in rickshaws
+and laughing and chattering. The guardian of the peace admonished them
+with a few short, crisp words, and they scuttled into the nearest
+alleys.</p>
+
+<p>The industry of the people, whether in city or country, is as amazing as
+their courtesy. The Japanese work seven days in the week, and the year
+is broken only by a few festivals that are generally observed by the
+complete cessation of labor. In the large cities work goes on in most of
+the shops until ten or eleven o'clock at night, and it is resumed at six
+o'clock the next morning.</p>
+
+<p>The most impressive spectacle during several night rides through miles
+of Tokio streets was the number of young lads from twelve to sixteen
+years of age who had fallen asleep at their tasks. With head pillowed on
+arm they slumbered on the hard benches, where they had been working
+since early morning, while the older men labored alongside at their
+tasks.</p>
+
+<p>From the train one saw the rice farmer and his wife and children working
+in the paddy fields as long as they could see. These people do not work
+with the fierce energy of the American mechanic, but their workday is
+from twelve to fourteen hours and, considering these long hours, they
+show great industry and conscientiousness.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>In some places women were employed at the hardest work, such as coaling
+ships by hand and digging and carrying earth from canals and ditches.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely less impressive than the tireless industry of the people is the
+enormous number of children that may be seen both in city and country.
+It was impossible to get statistics of births, but any American
+traveling through Japan must be struck with the fact that this is a land
+not threatened by race suicide.</p>
+
+<p>Women who looked far beyond the time of motherhood were suckling
+infants, while all the young women seemed well provided with children.
+Girls of five or six were playing games with sleeping infants strapped
+to their backs, and even boys were impressed into this nursery work. The
+younger children are clothed only in kimonos, so that the passer-by
+witnesses many strange sights of naked Japanese cherubs.</p>
+
+<p>In all quarters of Tokio the children were as numerous as in tenement
+streets of American cities on a Sunday afternoon, and in small country
+towns the number of children seemed even greater than in the big cities.</p>
+
+<p>Another feature of Japanese life that made a profound impression on me
+was the pilgrimage of school children to the various sacred shrines
+throughout the empire. At Nikko and at Nara, two of the great seats of
+Buddhist and Shinto shrines, these child pilgrims were conspicuous. They
+were seen in bands of fifty or seventy-five, attended by tutors. The
+boys were dressed in blue or black jackets, white or blue trousers and
+white leggings. Each carried his few belongings in a small box or a
+handkerchief and each had an umbrella to protect him from the frequent
+showers.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>The girls had dark red merino skirts, with kimono waists of some dark
+stuff. Many were without stockings, but all wore straw sandals or those
+with wooden sole and heavy wooden clogs. School children are admitted to
+temples and shrines at half rates and in every place the guides pay
+special attention to these young visitors.</p>
+
+<p>Pilgrimages of soldiers and others are also very common. Whenever a
+party of one hundred is formed it receives the benefit of the half-rate
+admission. No observant tourist can fail to see that in the pilgrimages
+of these school children and these soldiers the authorities of new Japan
+find the best means of stimulating patriotism. Church and State are so
+closely welded that the Mikado is regarded as a god. Passionate devotion
+to country is the great ruling power which separates Japan from all
+other modern nations.</p>
+
+<p>The number of young men who leave their country to escape the three
+years' conscription is very small. The schoolboy in his most
+impressionable years is brought to these sacred shrines; he listens to
+the story of the Forty-seven Ronins and other tales of Japanese
+chivalry; his soul is fired to imitate their self-sacrificing
+patriotism. The bloody slopes of Port Arthur witnessed the effect of
+such training as this.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
+<h3>The Japanese Capital and Its Parks and Temples</h3>
+
+
+<p>Tokio, the capital of Japan, is a picturesque city of enormous extent
+and the tourist who sees it in two or three days must expect to do
+strenuous work. The city, which actually covers one hundred square
+miles, is built on the low shore of Tokio bay and is intersected by the
+Sumi river and a network of narrow canals. The river and these canals
+are crossed by frequent bridges. At night the tourist may mark his
+approach to one of these canals by the evil odors that poison the air.
+Even in October the air is sultry in Tokio during the day and far into
+the night, but toward morning a penetrating damp wind arises.</p>
+
+<p>Although Tokio's main streets have been widened to imposing avenues that
+run through a series of great parks, the native life may be studied on
+every hand&mdash;for a block from the big streets, with their clanging
+electric cars, one comes upon narrow alleys lined with shops and teeming
+with life. Here, for the first time, the tourist sees Japanese city
+life, only slightly influenced by foreign customs. The streets are not
+more than twelve or fifteen feet wide, curbed on each side by flat
+blocks of granite, seldom more than a foot or eighteen inches wide.
+These furnish the only substitute for a sidewalk in rainy weather, as
+most of the streets are macadamized. A slight rainfall wets the surface
+and makes walking <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>for the foreigner very disagreeable. The Japanese use
+in rainy weather the wooden sandal with two transverse clogs about two
+inches high, which lifts him out of the mud. All Japanese dignitaries
+and nearly all foreigners use the jinrikisha, which has the right of way
+in the narrow streets. The most common sound in the streets is the bell
+of the rickshaw man or his warning shout of "Hi! Hi!"</p>
+
+<p>My first day's excursion included a ride through Shiba and Hibiya parks
+to Uyeno Park, the resting place of many of the shoguns. This makes a
+trip which will consume the entire day. Shiba Park is noteworthy for its
+temples (which contain some of the most remarkable specimens of Japanese
+art) and for the tombs of seven of the fifteen shoguns or native rulers
+who preceded the Mikado in the government of Japan. The first and third
+shoguns are buried at Nikko, while the fourth, fifth, eighth, ninth,
+eleventh and thirteenth lie in Uyeno Park, Tokio. These mortuary chapels
+in Shiba Park are all similar in general design, the only differences
+being in the lavishness of the decoration. Out of regard for the foreign
+visitor it is not necessary to remove one's shoes in entering these
+temples, as cloth covers are provided. Each temple is divided into three
+parts&mdash;the outer oratory, a corridor and the inner sanctum, where the
+shogun alone was privileged to worship. The daimyos or nobles were lined
+up in the corridor, while the smaller nobles and chiefs filled the
+oratory. It would be tedious to describe these temples, but one will
+serve as a specimen of all. This is the temple of the second shogun,
+which is noteworthy for the beauty of the decoration of the sanctum and
+the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>Two enormous gilded pillars support the vaulted roof of the sanctum,
+which is formed of beams in a very curious pattern. A frieze of
+medallions of birds, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>gilded and painted, runs around the top of the
+wall. The shrine dates back for two and one-half centuries and is of
+rich gold lacquer. The bronze incense burner, in the form of a lion,
+bears the date of 1635. The great war drum of Ieyasu, the first of the
+Tokugawa shoguns, lies upon a richly decorated stand. Back of the temple
+is the octagonal hall, which houses the tomb of the second shogun. This
+tomb is the largest example of gold lacquer in the world, and parts of
+it are inlaid with enamel and crystal. Scenes from Liao-Ling, China, and
+Lake Biwa, Japan, adorn the upper half, while the lower half bears
+elaborate decoration of the lion and the peony. The base of the tomb is
+a solid block of stone in the shape of the lotus. The hall is supported
+by eight pillars covered with gilded copper, and the walls are covered
+with gilded lacquer. The enormous amount of money expended on these
+shrines will amaze any foreign visitor, as well as the profound
+reverence shown by the Japanese for these resting places of the shoguns.</p>
+
+<p>Passing along a wide avenue traversed by electric cars one soon reaches
+Hibiya Park, one of the show places of Tokio. To the European tourist or
+the visitor from our Eastern States the beauty of the vegetation is a
+source of marvel, but San Francisco's Golden Gate Park can equal
+everything that grows here in the way of ornamental shrubs, trees and
+flowers. On the south side of the park are the Parliament buildings, and
+near by the fine, new brick buildings of the Naval and Judicial
+Departments and the courts. Near by are grouped many of the foreign
+legations, the palaces of princes and the mansions of the Japanese
+officials and foreign embassadors. Here also is the Museum of Arms,
+which is very interesting because of the many specimens of ancient
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>Japanese weapons and the trophies of the wars with China and Russia. In
+this museum one may see the profound interest which the Japanese
+pilgrims from all parts of the empire take in these memorials of
+conquest. To them they rank with the sacred shrines as objects of
+veneration.</p>
+
+<p>Not far away is the moat which surrounds the massive walls of the
+imperial palace, open only to those who have the honor of an imperial
+audience. These walls are of granite laid up without mortar, the corner
+stones being of unusual size. The visitor may see the handsome roofs of
+the imperial palaces. Those who have been admitted declare that the
+decorations and the furniture are in the highest style of Japanese art,
+although the simplicity and the neutral colors that mark the Shinto
+temples prevail in the private chambers of the Emperor. In the throne
+chamber and the banquet hall, on the other hand, gold and brilliant hues
+make a blaze of color. Near the palace grounds are the Government
+printing office and a number of schools.</p>
+
+<p>Turning down into Yoken street, one of the great avenues of traffic, you
+soon reach Uyeno Park&mdash;the most popular pleasure ground of the capital,
+and famous in the spring for its long lines of cherry trees in full
+blossom. In the autumn it impressed me, as did all the other Japanese
+parks, as rather damp and unwholesome. The ground was saturated from
+recent rain; all the stonework was covered with moss and lichen; the
+trees dripped moisture, and the little lakes scattered here and there
+were like those gloomy tarns that Poe loved to paint in his poems. Near
+the entrance to this park is a shallow lake covered with lotus plants,
+and a short distance beyond from a little hill one may get a good view
+of the buildings of the imperial university. Here is a good foreign
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>restaurant where one may enjoy a palatable lunch. Near by on a slight
+eminence stands a huge bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and one-half
+feet high, called the Daibutsu. It is one of several such figures
+scattered over the empire. Passing through a massive granite torii, or
+gate, one reaches an avenue of stately cryptomeria, or cedar trees that
+leads to a row of stone lanterns presented in 1651 by daimyos as a
+memorial to the first shogun. The temple beyond is famous for its
+beautiful lacquer.</p>
+
+<p>Near at hand are the temples and tombs of the six shoguns of the
+Tokugawa family, buried in Uyeno Park. These temples are regarded as
+among the finest remains of old Japanese art. The mortuary temples bear
+a close resemblance to those in Shiba Park. The second temple is the
+finer and is celebrated for the gilding of the interior walls, the
+gorgeous decoration of the shrines and the memorial tablets in gold
+lacquer. Here, also, are eight tablets erected to the memory of eight
+mothers of shoguns, all of whom were concubines.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Yomei-mori Gate">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="yomei" id="yomei"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/014.jpg" width="324" height="550" alt="Yomei-mori Gate" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdcapcen">
+The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko.<br />
+One of the Most Beautiful Gates in all Japan. The Columns<br />
+Are Painted White, with Capitals of Unicorn's Heads.<br />
+The Roof is Supported by Gilt Dragon's Heads.
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>A short distance from Uyeno Park is the great Buddhist temple known as
+Asakusa Kwannon, dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess of mercy. The
+approaches to this temple on any pleasant day look like a country fair.
+The crowd is so dense that jinrikishas can not approach within one
+hundred yards. The shrine dates back to the sixth century and the temple
+is the most popular resort of its kind in Tokio. On each side of the
+entrance lane are shops, where all kinds of curios, toys, cakes, et
+cetera, are sold. The temple itself is crowded with votaries who offer
+coins to the various idols, while below (near the stairs that give
+entrance to the temple) are various side booths that are patronized by
+worshipers. Some of these gods promise long life; others give
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>happiness, and several insure big families to women who offer money and
+say prayers.</p>
+
+<p>One of the remarkable jinrikisha rides in Japan is that from Uyeno to
+Shimbashi station through the heart of Tokio by night. This takes about
+a half hour and it gives a series of pictures of the great Japanese city
+that can be gained in no other way. Here may be seen miles of little
+shops lining alleys not over ten or twelve feet wide, in most of which
+work is going on busily as late as eleven o'clock. In places the sleepy
+proprietors are putting up their shutters, preparatory to going to bed,
+but in others the work of artisan or baker or weaver goes on as though
+the day had only fairly begun. Most of these shops are lighted by
+electricity, but this light is the only modern thing about them. The
+weaver sits at the loom precisely as he sat two thousand years ago, and
+the baker kneads his dough and bakes his cakes precisely as he did
+before the days of the first shogun. This ride gives a panorama of
+oriental life which can be equaled in few cities in the world.
+Occasionally the jinrikisha dashes up a little bank and across a bridge
+that spans a canal and one catches a glimpse of long lines of house
+boats, with dim lights, nestling under overhanging balconies. Overall is
+that penetrating odor of the Far East, mingled with the smell of bilge
+water and the reek of thousands of sweating human beings. These smells
+are of the earth earthy and they led one to dream that night of weird
+and terrible creatures such as De Quincey paints in his <i>Confessions of
+an English Opium Eater</i>.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p>
+<h3>The Most Famous City of Temples in All Japan</h3>
+
+<p>The most magnificent temples in Japan are at Nikko, in the mountains,
+five hours' ride by train from Tokio. What makes this trip the more
+enjoyable to the American tourist is that the country reminds him of the
+Catskills, and that he gets some glimpses of primitive Japanese life.
+The Japanese have a proverb: "Do not use the word 'magnificent' until
+you have seen Nikko." And anyone who goes through the three splendid
+temples that serve as memorials of the early shoguns will agree that the
+proverb is true.</p>
+
+<p>The railroad ride to Nikko is tedious, although it furnishes greater
+variety than most of the other trips by rail through the Mikado's
+empire. But as soon as one is landed at the little station he recognizes
+that here is a place unlike any that he has seen. The road runs up a
+steep hill to the Kanaya Hotel, which is perched on a high bank
+overlooking the Daiyagawa river. Tall cedar trees clothe the banks, and
+across the river rise mountains, with the roofs of temples showing
+through the foliage at their base. This hotel is gratefully remembered
+by all tourists because of the artistic decoration of the rooms in
+Japanese style and the beneficent care of the proprietor, which includes
+a pretty kimono to wear to the morning bath, with straw sandals for the
+feet, and charming waitresses in picturesque costumes.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>The first Buddhist temple at Nikko dates back to the eighth century, but
+it was not until the seventeenth century that the place was made a
+national shrine by building here the mausoleum of the first shogun,
+Ieyasu, and of his grandson, Iemitsu. Hardly less noteworthy than these
+shrines and temples is the great avenue of giant cryptomeria trees,
+which stretches across the country for twenty miles, from Nikko to
+Utsunomiya.</p>
+
+<p>One of the chief objects of interest in Nikko is the Sacred Red Bridge
+which spans a swift stream about forty feet wide. This is a new bridge,
+as the old one was carried away by a great flood nine years ago.
+Originally built in 1638, it served to commemorate the legendary and
+miraculous bridging of the stream by Shodo Shonin, a saint. He arrived
+at the river one day while on a pilgrimage and called aloud for aid to
+cross. On the opposite bank appeared a being of gigantic size, who
+promised to help him, and at once flung across the stream two green and
+blue dragons which formed a bridge. When the saint was safely over the
+bridge, it vanished with the mysterious being. Shodo at once built a hut
+on the banks of the stream. For fourteen years he dwelt there and
+gathered many disciples. Then he established a monastery and a shrine at
+Lake Chuzinji, about nine miles from Nikko. Nine hundred years later the
+second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty sent two officials to Nikko to
+select a site for the mausoleum of his father. They chose a site near
+Nikko, on a hill called Hotoke-iwa, and in the spring of 1617 the tomb
+was completed and the coffin was deposited under it with appropriate
+Buddhist ceremonies.</p>
+
+<p>The road to the mausoleum winds around the river. The first object on
+the way is a pillar erected<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> in 1643 to ward off evil influences. It is
+a cylindrical copper column forty-two feet high, supported by short
+horizontal bars of the same material, resting on four short columns.
+Small bells hung from lotus-shaped cups crown the summit of the column.
+Just beyond this column is a massive granite torii, twenty-seven and
+one-half feet high, the gift of the Daimiyo of Chikuzen. To the left is
+a five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet in height, which is
+especially graceful. Inside a red wooden wall are arranged a series of
+lacquered storehouses, a holy water cistern cut out of a solid block of
+granite, a finely decorated building in which rest a collection of
+Buddhist writings. A second court is reached by a flight of stairs. Here
+are gifts presented by the kings of Luchu, Holland and Korea, these
+three countries being regarded as vassal states of Japan. On the left is
+the Temple of Yahushi, beautifully decorated in red and gold lacquer,
+and just beyond is a fine gate, called Yomei-mon, decorated with
+medallions of birds. Passing through this gate, one reaches a court
+bordered by several small buildings, one of which contains the
+palanquins that are carried in the annual procession on June 1st, when
+the deified spirits of the first shogun, Hideyoshi (the great
+conqueror), and Yoritomo occupy them. Seventy-five men carry each of
+these palanquins.</p>
+
+<p>The main shrines are reached through the Chinese gate. The three
+chambers are magnificent specimens of the finest work in lacquer, gold
+and metal. The tomb of Ieyasu, the first shogun, is reached by ascending
+two hundred stone steps. The tomb is in the form of a small pagoda of
+bronze of an unusually light color caused by the mixture of gold. The
+body of the shogun is buried twenty feet deep in a bed of charcoal.
+Beyond is the mausoleum of Iemitsu, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>third shogun. The oratory and
+chapel are richly decorated, but they do not compare with those of the
+first shogun's tomb. Back of these tombs, among the huge cedar trees
+that clothe the sides of the mountain, is a small red shrine where women
+offer little pieces of wood that they may pass safely through the
+dangers of childbirth. Near by is the tomb of Shodo, the saint, and
+three of his disciples.</p>
+
+<p>These mortuary temples and tombs are genuinely impressive. They bear
+many signs of age and it is evident that they are held in great
+veneration by the Japanese, who make pilgrimages at all seasons to offer
+up prayers at these sacred shrines. More impressive than the tombs
+themselves are the pilgrims. On the day that I visited this sacred
+shrine several large bands of pilgrims were entertained. One party was
+composed of over a hundred boys from one of the big government military
+schools. These lads were in uniform and each carried an umbrella and a
+lunch tied up in a handkerchief. The priests paid special attention to
+these young pilgrims and described for their benefit the marvels of
+carving and lacquer work. Services were held before the shrines and the
+glorious conquest of the shoguns and of Hideyoshi (popularly known as
+the Napoleon of Japan) were described in glowing words. The Russian
+cannon captured at Port Arthur, which stands near the entrance to the
+tombs, was not forgotten by these priests, who never fail to do their
+part in stimulating the patriotism of the young pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p>These boys were followed by an equal number of public school girls, all
+dressed in dark red merino skirts and kimonos of various colors. Some
+were without stockings and none wore any head covering, although each
+girl carried her lunch and the inevitable umbrella.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>After these children came several parties of mature pilgrims, some
+finely dressed and bearing every evidence of wealth and position, while
+others were clothed in poor garments and showed great deference to the
+priests and guides. All revealed genuine veneration for the sacred
+relics and all contributed according to their means to the various
+shrines. Some idea of the revenue drawn by the priests from tourists and
+pilgrims may be gained when it is said that admission is seventy sen (or
+thirty-five cents in American money) for each person, with half-rates to
+priests, teachers and school children, and to members of parties
+numbering one hundred.</p>
+
+<p>The shops at Nikko will be found well worth a visit, as this city is the
+market for many kinds of furs that are scarce in America. Many fine
+specimens of wood carving may also be seen in the shops. The main street
+of the town runs from the Kanaya Hotel to the railroad depot, a distance
+of a mile and one-half, and it is lined for nearly the whole distance
+with small shops.</p>
+
+<p>On his return to the railroad the tourist would do well to take a
+jinrikisha ride of five miles down through the great avenue of old
+cryptomeria trees to the little station of Imaichi. This is one of the
+most beautiful rides in the world. The road is bordered on each side by
+huge cedar trees which are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
+feet in height. In many cases the roots of these old trees have formed a
+natural embankment and the road is thus forced below the level of the
+surrounding rice fields. These trees were planted nearly three hundred
+years ago and they are certainly in a remarkable state of preservation.
+A few gaps there are, due to the vandalism of the country people, but
+mile after mile is passed with only an occasional break in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>these
+stately columns, crowned by the deep green masses of foliage. Another
+cryptomeria avenue intersects this and runs for twenty-five miles across
+the country. The two avenues were planted in order that they might be
+used by the shogun's messengers when they bore important letters to him
+during his summer residence in Nara.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p>
+<h3>In Kyoto, The Ancient Capital of Japan</h3>
+
+<p>Next to Nikko, one of the most interesting cities in Japan is Kyoto, the
+old capital under the shoguns, the seat of several fine palaces and many
+beautiful temples, and the center of large manufacturing works of
+satsuma and cloissone ware, damascene work and art work on silk and
+velvet. Kyoto may be reached by a short ride from Kobe, but from Tokio
+it is an all-day trip of twelve hours by express train. This ride, which
+would be comfortable in well appointed cars, is made tedious by the
+Japanese preference for cars with seats arranged along the side, like
+the new American pay-as-you-enter street cars. For a short ride the side
+seat may be endured, but for hours of travel (especially when one is a
+tourist and wishes to see the scenery on both sides of the road) the
+cars are extremely tiresome.</p>
+
+<p>By selecting the express train and buying first-class tickets it was
+hoped to avoid any crowd but, unfortunately, the day chosen saw many
+other tourists on their way across Japan. The result was that the
+first-class car was packed and many who had paid first-class fares were
+forced to ride in the second-class cars. In my car one side was occupied
+almost wholly by Japanese. Two were in American dress, one was an army
+officer in uniform, another a clerk with many packages, and the
+remaining two were an old couple, richly dressed. The Japanese, in
+traveling first-class,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> generally brings a rug or fur, which he spreads
+over the seat. On this he sits with his feet drawn up under him in the
+national style. Smoking is not prohibited even in the first-class cars,
+so that the American ladies in the cars had to endure the smell of
+various kinds of Japanese tobacco, in addition to the heat, which was
+rendered more disagreeable by the frequent closing of the windows as the
+train dashed through many tunnels. The old couple carried lunch in
+several hampers and they indulged in a very elaborate luncheon, helped
+out by tea purchased in little pots from a dealer at a station. The army
+officer bought one of the small wooden lunch boxes sold along all
+Japanese railways, which contain boiled rice, fried fish and some boiled
+sweet potatoes. This, with a pot of tea, made a good lunch. The Japanese
+in European costume patronized the dining-car, where an excellent lunch
+was served for one yen, or fifty cents in American money.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery along the line of the railway varied. The road skirts the
+coast for many miles, then cuts across several mountain ranges to
+Nagoya, then along the shores of Owari bay (an arm of the ocean), thence
+across the country to the lower end of Lake Biwa, near which Kyoto is
+situated. In the old days this journey consumed twelve days, and the
+road twice every year furnished a picturesque procession of the retinues
+of great nobles or daimiyos traveling from Kyoto to Tokio to present
+their respects to the shogun. The road was skirted by great cryptomeria,
+and avenues of these fine trees may still be seen near Nikko.</p>
+
+<p>Kyoto was a great city in medieval days, when it was the residence of
+the Mikado. From 793 until 1868, when the court removed to Tokio, Kyoto
+remained the capital. Its importance, however, began<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> to decline with
+the founding of Yedo, or Tokio, in 1590, and to-day many miles of its
+former streets are devoted to the growing of rice. In this way several
+of the finest temples, which were once in the heart of the old city, are
+now relegated to the suburbs. Besides the Mikado's palace and Nijo
+castle, which may be visited only by special permit, Kyoto boasts of an
+unusual number of richly decorated temples, among which the most
+noteworthy are the Shinto temple of Inari; the temple of the one
+thousand images of Kwannon, the Deity of Mercy; the great Buddhist
+temple of Nishi-Honguanji, celebrated for its art work in paintings and
+decorated woods; the great bronze Buddha, fifty-eight feet high; the big
+bell near by, nearly fourteen feet high, and the other in the Cheon-in
+temple here&mdash;these being two of the four largest bells in all Japan. To
+describe the treasures in art and decoration, in gold and lacquer, in
+these palaces, would be tiresome. Unless one is a student of Japanese
+art the visiting of temples soon becomes a great bore, for one temple or
+one palace is a repetition of others already seen, with merely minor
+differences in architecture and decoration, which appeal only to the
+specialist.</p>
+
+<p>Kyoto, however, is of great interest for its many art shops&mdash;since
+applied art, as seen in satsuma and cloissone ware and in damascene,
+have almost reached the level of pure art. A visit to one of the satsuma
+factories is an interesting experience, as it shows how little the art
+of Japan has been influenced by the foreigner. Here one sees the potter
+at his wheel, precisely as in the days of the Bible. He does not avail
+himself of electric power but whirls his wheel by hand and foot, exactly
+as in the time of Christ. Passing from the pottery to the art rooms, one
+finds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> a number of Japanese men and girls painting elaborate designs on
+bowls and vases and other articles. These artists grind and mix their
+own oil colors, which they proceed to lay on slowly upon the article
+they are decorating. The patience of these artists is indescribable.
+Infinite pains is taken with a single flower or tree or figure of man or
+bird. One vase exhibited here is covered with butterflies which range
+from natural size down to figures so small that they can be discerned
+only under a magnifying glass. Yet, this vase, which represents such an
+enormous outlay of labor and time, is sold at thirty dollars in American
+money.</p>
+
+<p>At the damascene works both men and women are also employed, although
+the finest work is done by the men. The art consists in beating into
+bronze small particles of gold leaf until they have become an actual
+part of the baser metal. This gold is arranged in a great variety of
+design and, after being beaten in, the article is subjected to powerful
+heat, which oxidizes the metal and thus prevents any change due to the
+weather. At this Kyoto factory were turned out the most artistic
+jewelry, boxes, cigarette cases and a great variety of small articles,
+many of which sold at absurdly low prices, considering the amount of
+labor and time expended on them.</p>
+
+<p>Kyoto will be found one of the best cities in Japan for the purchase of
+the art work just described, as well as embroidery, silks and other
+stuffs. In many of these shops the work is done on the premises and
+hence the prices are cheaper than in any other city except Yokohama. It
+is worth while to visit the shops that exhibit bronze work, silks,
+velvets and carvings in ivory and wood, as well as curios of many kinds.
+Most of these shopkeepers demand more than they expect to receive, but
+in a few shops <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>the goods are plainly marked and no reduction in price
+can be secured. At Kyoto the tourist will find many traces of primitive
+Japanese life, especially in the unfrequented streets and in the
+suburbs. Here in the bed of the river, a portion of which was being
+walled up for a canal, were employed a dozen women digging up gravel and
+carrying it in baskets to carts near by. They had their skirts tied up
+and they were working in mud and water which reached to their knees. It
+was not a pleasant spectacle, but it excited no comment in this country,
+where women labor in the rice fields by the side of men.</p>
+
+<p>A short ride from Kyoto brings the visitor to Nara, the seat of the
+oldest temples in Japan, and famous for the tame deer in the park. A
+long avenue of stone lanterns leads to the principal temples, in an
+ancient cedar grove. The main temple gives an impression of great age by
+its heavy thatched roof.</p>
+
+<p>Next looms up the gigantic wooden structure, which houses Daibutsa, the
+great bronze image of Buddha. This statue, which dates back to the
+eighth century, is fifty-three and one-quarter feet high; the face is
+sixteen feet long and nine and one-quarter feet wide. The god is in a
+sitting position, with the legs crossed. The head, which is darker than
+the remainder of the image, replaced in the sixteenth century the
+original head destroyed by fire. The expression of this Buddha is not
+benignant, and the image is impressive only because of its size. It has
+two images eighteen feet in height on either hand, but these seemed
+dwarfed by the huge central figure.</p>
+
+<p>The park at Nara is very interesting, because of the tame deer which
+have no fear of the stranger in European dress, but will eat cakes from
+his hand. One of the sources of revenue is to sell these cakes to the
+tourist.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>A visit was paid to an old temple at Horyuji, about eight miles from
+Nara, which is famous as the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. It
+contains a valuable collection of ancient Japanese works of art. The
+rickshaw ride to this place is of great interest, as the road passes
+through a rich farming country and two small towns which seem to have
+been little affected by European influence. In the fertile valley below
+Nara rice is grown on an extensive scale, these paddy fields being
+veritable swamps which can be crossed only by high paths running through
+them, at distances of thirty or forty feet. Here also may be seen the
+curious method of trellising orchards of pear trees with bamboo poles.
+The trellis supports the upper branches and this prevents them from
+breaking down under the weight of fruit, while it also makes easy the
+picking of fruit. Agriculture at its best is seen in this fertile
+Japanese valley. One peculiarity of this country, as of other parts of
+rural Japan, is that one sees none of the scattered farmhouses which dot
+every American farming section. Instead of building on his own land the
+farmer lives in a village to which he returns at night after his day's
+work.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Kobe, Osaka, The Inland Sea and Nagasaki</h3>
+
+<p>Kobe is regarded as a base for the tourist who wishes to make short
+excursions to Kyoto, Osaka and other cities. It was established as a
+foreign settlement in 1868, and has grown so remarkably during the last
+ten years that now it exceeds in imports and exports any other city in
+Japan. Kobe is one of the most attractive cities in the empire, being
+built on a pretty harbor, with the land rising like an amphitheater.
+Scores of handsome residences are scattered over the foothills near the
+sea. Those on the lower side of the streets that run parallel to the
+harbor have gardens walled up on the rear, while the houses on the upper
+side of the streets have massive retaining walls. These give opportunity
+for many ornamental gateways.</p>
+
+<p>Kobe has many large government schools, but the institutions which I
+found of greatest interest were Kobe College for Women, conducted by
+Miss Searle, and the Glory Kindergarten, under the management of Miss
+Howe. Kobe College, which was founded over thirty years ago, is
+maintained by the Women's Board of Missions of Chicago. It has two
+hundred and twenty-five pupils, of whom all except about fifty are
+lodged and boarded on the premises. I heard several of the classes
+reciting in English. The primary class in English read simple sentences
+from a blackboard and answered questions put by the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>teacher. A few
+spoke good English, but the great majority failed to open their mouths,
+and the result was the indistinct enunciation that is so trying to
+understand. Another class was reading <i>Hamlet</i>, but the pupils made sad
+work of Shakespeare's verse. The Japanese reading of English is always
+monotonous, because their own language admits of no emphasis; so their
+use of English is no more strange than our attempts at Japanese, in
+which we employ emphasis that excites the ridicule of the Mikado's
+subjects.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from this college is the kintergarten, which Miss Howe has
+carried on for twenty-four years. She takes little tots of three or four
+years of age and trains them in Froebel's methods. So successful has she
+been in her work among these children of the best Japanese families of
+Kobe that she has a large waiting list. She has also trained many
+Japanese girls in kintergarten work. All the children at this school
+looked unusually bright, as they are drawn from the educated classes. It
+sounded very strange to hear American and English lullabies being
+chanted by these tots in the unfamiliar Japanese words.</p>
+
+<p>Osaka, the chief manufacturing city of Japan, is only about
+three-quarters of an hour's ride from Kobe. It spreads over nine miles
+square and lies on both sides of the Yodogawa river. The most
+interesting thing in Osaka is the castle built by Hideyoshi, the
+Napoleon of Japan, in 1583. The strong wall was once surrounded by a
+deep moat and an outer wall, which made it practically impregnable. What
+will surprise anyone is the massive character of the inner walls which
+remain. Here are blocks of solid granite, many of them measuring forty
+feet in length by ten feet in height. It must have required a small army
+of men to place these stones <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>in position, but so well was this work
+done (without the aid of any mortar) that the stones have remained in
+place during all these years. From the summit of the upper wall a superb
+view may be gained of the surrounding country.</p>
+
+<p>From Kobe the tourist makes the trip through the Inland Sea by steamer.
+Its length is about two hundred and forty miles and its greatest width
+is forty miles. The trip through this sea, which in some places narrows
+to a few hundred feet, is deeply interesting. The hills remind a
+Californian strongly of the Marin hills opposite San Francisco, but here
+they are terraced nearly to their summits and are green with rice and
+other crops. Many of the hills are covered with a growth of small cedar
+trees, and these trees lend rare beauty to the various points of land
+that project into the sea. At two places in the sea the steamer seems as
+though she would surely go on the rocks in the narrow channel, but the
+pilot swings her almost within her own length and she turns again into a
+wider arm of the sea. In these narrow channels the tide runs like a mill
+race, and without a pilot (who knows every current) any vessel would be
+in extreme danger. The steamer leaves Kobe about ten o'clock at night
+and reaches Nagasaki, the most western of Japanese cities, about seven
+o'clock the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>Nagasaki in some ways reminds one of Kobe, but the hills are steeper and
+the most striking feature of the town is the massive stone walls that
+support the streets winding around the hills, and the elaborate paving
+of many of these side-hill streets with great blocks of granite. The
+rainfall is heavy at Nagasaki, so we find here a good system of gutters
+to carry off the water. The harbor is pretty and on the opposite shore
+are large engine works, three <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>large docks and a big ship-building
+plant, all belonging to the Mitsu Bishi Company. Here some five thousand
+workmen are constantly employed.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Great Bronze Buddha">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="Daibutsu" id="Daibutsu"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/030.jpg" width="324" height="550" alt="Great Bronze Buddha statue" /></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tdcapcen">
+The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha<br />
+at Hyogo, Near Kobe. The Impressive Figure is Forty-eight<br />
+Feet High and Eighty-five Feet Round the Waist. It is<br />
+Not so Fine as the Daibutsu at Kamakura But<br />
+Surpasses That at Nara
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>One of the great industries of Nagasaki is the coaling of Japanese and
+foreign steamships. A very fair kind of steam coal is sold here at three
+dollars a ton, which is less by one dollar and one-half than a poorer
+grade of coal can be bought for in Seattle; hence the steamer Minnesota
+coaled here. The coaling of this huge ship proved to be one of the most
+picturesque sights of her voyage. Early on the morning of her arrival
+lighters containing about a railway carload of coal began to arrive.
+These were arranged in regular rows on both sides of the ship. Then came
+out in big sampans an army of Japanese numbering two thousand in all.
+The leaders arranged ladders against the sides of the ship, and up these
+swarmed this army of workers, three-quarters of whom were young girls
+between fourteen and eighteen years old. They were dressed in all
+colors, but most of them wore a native bonnet tied about the ears. They
+formed in line on the stairs and then the coal was passed along from
+hand to hand until it reached the bunkers. These baskets held a little
+over a peck of coal, and the rapidity with which they moved along this
+living line was startling.</p>
+
+<p>Every few minutes the line was given a breathing space, but the work
+went on with a deadly regularity that made the observer tired to watch
+it. Occasionally one of the young girls would flag in her work and,
+after she dropped a few basketfuls, she would be relieved and put at the
+lighter work of throwing the empty baskets back into the lighters. Most
+of these girls, however, remained ten hours at this laborious work, and
+a few worked through from seven o'clock in the morning until <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>nearly
+midnight, when the last basket of coal was put on board. At work like
+this no such force of Europeans would have shown the same self-control
+and constant courtesy which these Japanese exhibited. Wranglings would
+have been inevitable, and the strong workers would have shown little
+regard for their weaker companions.</p>
+
+<p>Another feature of this Japanese work was the elimination of any strain
+or overexertion. If a girl failed to catch a basket as it whirled along
+the line she dropped it instantly. Never did I see anyone reach over or
+strain to do her work.</p>
+
+<p>The rest for lunch occupied only about fifteen minutes, the begrimed
+workers sitting down on the steps of the ladders and eating their simple
+food with keen relish. At night when strong electric lights cast their
+glare over these constantly moving lines of figures the effect was
+almost grotesque, reminding one of Gustave Dor&eacute;'s terrible pictures of
+the lost souls in torment, or of the scramble to escape when the deluge
+came. The skill that comes of long practice marked the movements of all
+these workers, and it was rare that any basket was dropped by an awkward
+or tired coal-passer.</p>
+
+<p>In seventeen hours four thousand five hundred tons of coal were loaded
+on the steamer. About fifteen hundred people were working on the various
+ladders, while another five hundred were employed in trimming the coal
+in the hold and in managing the various boats. The result was an exhibit
+of what can be done by primitive methods when perfect co-operation is
+secured.</p>
+
+<p>Nagasaki itself has little that will interest the tourist but a ride or
+walk to Mogi, on an arm of the ocean, five miles away, may be taken with
+profit. The road passes over a high divide and, as it runs <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>through a
+farming country, one is able to see here (more perfectly than in any
+other part of Japan) how carefully every acre of tillable land is
+cultivated. On both sides of this road from Nagasaki to the fishing
+village of Mogi were fields enclosed by permanent walls of stone, such
+as would be built in America only to sustain a house. In many cases the
+ground protected by this wall was not over half an acre in extent, and
+in some cases the fields were of smaller size. Tier after tier of these
+walls extended up the sides of the steep hills. The effect at a little
+distance was startling, as the whole landscape seemed artificial. The
+result of this series of walls was to make a succession of little mesas
+or benches such as may be seen in southern California.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Development of the Japanese Sense of Beauty</h3>
+
+
+<p>After a trip through Japan the question that confronts the observant
+tourist is: What has preserved the fine artistic sense of the Japanese
+people of all classes, in the face of the materialist influences that
+have come into their life with the introduction of Western methods of
+thought and of business? The most careless traveler has it thrust upon
+him that here is a people artistic to the tips of their fingers, and
+with childlike power of idealization, although they have been forced to
+engage in the fierce warfare of modern business competition. What is it
+that has kept them unspotted from the world of business? What secret
+source of spiritual force have they been able to draw upon to keep fresh
+and dewy this eager, artistic sense that must be developed with so much
+labor among any Western people?</p>
+
+<p>The answer to these questions is found, by several shrewd observers, in
+the Japanese devotion to their gardens. Every Japanese, no matter how
+small and poor his house, has a garden to which he may retire and
+"invite his soul." These Japanese gardens are unique and are found in no
+other land. China has the nearest approach to them, but the poor Chinese
+never dreams of spending time and money in the development of a garden,
+such as the Japanese in similar circumstances regards as a necessity.
+And <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>these Japanese gardens are always made to conform to the house and
+its architecture. The two never fail to fit and harmonize. A poor man
+may have only a square of ground no larger than a few feet, but he will
+so arrange it as to give it an appearance of spaciousness, while the
+more elaborate gardens are laid out so as to give the impression of
+unlimited extent. The end of the garden appears to melt into the
+horizon, and the owner has a background that extends for miles into the
+country. By the artistic use of stones and dwarf plants, a few square
+feet of ground are made to give the effect of liberal space and, with
+bridges, moss-covered stones, ponds, gold fish and other features, a
+perfect illusion of the country may be produced.</p>
+
+<p>Into this garden the master of the house retires after the work of the
+day. There he takes none of his business or professional cares. He gives
+himself wholly to the contemplation of Nature. He becomes for the time
+as a little child, and his soul is pleased with childish things. For him
+this garden, with its pretty outlook on a larger world, serves as the
+boundary of the universe. Here he may dream of the legends of the
+Samurai, before Japan fell under the evil influence of the new God of
+Gain. Here he may indulge in the day-dreams that have always been a part
+of the national consciousness. Here, in fine, he may get closer to the
+real heart of Nature than any Occidental can ever hope to reach.</p>
+
+<p>It is this capacity to get close to Nature that the Japanese possess
+beyond any other Oriental people&mdash;and this capacity is not limited to
+those of means or leisure or education. The poor man, who has a daily
+struggle to get enough rice to satisfy his moderate wants, is as open to
+these influences as the rich man who is not worried by any material
+wants. There is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>no distinction of classes in this universal worship of
+beauty&mdash;this passion for all that is lovely in nature. It was not my
+good fortune to be in Japan at the time of the cherry-blossom
+festival&mdash;but these f&ecirc;tes merely serve to bring out this national
+passion for beauty and color, which finds expression not only in the
+gardens throughout the empire but in painting, drawing and in working on
+silks and other fabrics. The same instinctive art sense is seen in the
+work of the cabinet-maker and even in the designs of gateways and the
+doors of houses. The eye and the hand of the common worker in wood and
+metal is as sure as the hand of the great artist. Such is the influence
+of this constant study of beauty in nature and art.</p>
+
+<p>When you watch a busy Japanese artisan you get a good idea of the spirit
+that animates his work. He regards himself as an artist, and he shows
+the same sureness of hand and the same sense of form and color as the
+designer in colors or the painter of portraits or landscapes. All the
+beautiful gateways or torii, as they are called, are works of art. They
+have one stereotyped form, but the artists embellish these in many ways
+and the result is that every entrance to a large estate or a public
+ground is pleasing to the eye. As these gateways are generally lacquered
+in black or red or gold, they add much to the beauty and color of each
+scene. The ornamental lattice over nearly every door also adds
+enormously to the effectiveness of even a simple interior.</p>
+
+<p>Watch a worker on cloissone enamel and you will be amazed at the
+rapidity and the accuracy with which he paints designs on this beautiful
+ware. Without any pattern he proceeds to sketch with his brush an
+intricate design of flowers, birds or insects, and he develops this with
+an unerring touch that is little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>short of marvelous, when one considers
+that he has never had any regular training in drawing but has grown up
+in the shop and has gained all his skill from watching and imitating the
+work of his master on the bench at his side. One day in Kyoto I watched
+a mere boy gradually develop a beautiful design of several hundred
+butterflies gradually becoming smaller and smaller until they vanished
+at the top of the vase. What he proposed to make of this was shown in a
+finished design that was exquisite in the gradation of form and color.
+The same skill of hand and eye was seen in the shops of Kyoto where
+damascene ware is made. Gold and silver is hammered into steel and other
+metals, so that the intricate designs actually seem to become a part of
+the metal. In carving in wood the Japanese excel, and in such places as
+Nikko and Nara the tourist may pick up the most elaborate carvings at
+absurdly low prices.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character</h3>
+
+
+<p>In summing up one's observations of Japanese life and character, after a
+brief trip across the empire, it is necessary to exercise much care and
+not to take the accidental for the ordinary incidents of life.
+Generalizations from such observations on a hurried journey are
+especially deadly. To guard against such error I talked with many
+people, and the conclusions given here are drawn from the radically
+different views of missionaries, merchants, steamship agents, bankers
+and others. Generous allowance must be made for the prejudices of each
+class, but even then the forming of any conclusions is difficult. This
+is due largely to the fact that the Japanese a half-century ago were
+medi&aelig;val in life and thought, and that the remarkable advances which
+they have made in material and intellectual affairs have been crowded
+into a little more than the life of two generations.</p>
+
+<p>The most common charge made against the Japanese as a race is that their
+standard of commercial morality is low as compared with that of the
+Chinese. The favorite instance, which is generally cited by those who do
+not like the Japanese, is that all the big banks in Japan employ Chinese
+shroffs or cashiers, who handle all the money, as Japanese cashiers
+cannot be trusted. This ancient fiction should have died a natural
+death, but it seems as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>though it bears a charmed life, although its
+untruth has been repeatedly exposed by the best authorities on Japan.</p>
+
+<p>The big foreign banks in all the large Japanese cities do employ Chinese
+shroffs, because these men are most expert in handling foreign money and
+because they usually have a large acquaintance all along the Chinese
+coast among the clients of the banks. The large Japanese banks, on the
+other hand, employ Japanese in all positions of trust and authority, as
+do all the smaller banks throughout the empire. Many of the cashiers of
+these smaller banks understand English, particularly those that have
+dealings with foreigners. At a native bank in Kobe, which was Cook's
+correspondent in that city, I cashed several money orders, and the work
+was done as speedily as it would have been done in any American bank.
+The fittings of the bank were very cheap; the office force was small,
+but the cashier spoke excellent English and he transacted business
+accurately and speedily.</p>
+
+<p>In making any generalizations on the lack of rigid commercial honesty
+among Japanese merchants it may be well for me to quote the opinion of
+an eminent American educator who has spent over forty years in Japan. He
+said, in discussing this subject: "We must always consider the training
+of the Japanese before their country was thrown open to foreign trade.
+For years the nation had been ruled by men of the Samurai or military
+class, with a rigid code of honor, but with a great contempt for trade
+and tradesmen. Naturally business fell into the hands of the lower
+classes who did not share the keen sense of honor so general among their
+rulers. Hence, there grew up lax ideas of commercial morality, which
+were fostered by the carelessness in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>money matters among the nobility
+and aristocracy. Much of the prevalent Japanese inability to refrain
+from overcharging, or delivering an inferior article to that shown to
+the customer, dates back to these days of feudal life. The years of
+contact with the foreigners have been too few to change the habits of
+centuries. Another thing which must always be considered is the relation
+of master and vassal under feudal life. That relation led to peculiar
+customs. Thus, if an artisan engaged to build a house for his overlord
+he would give a general estimate, but if the cost exceeded the sum he
+named, he expected his master to make up the deficit. This custom has
+been carried over into the new r&eacute;gime, so that the Japanese merchant or
+mechanic of to-day, although he may make a formal contract, does not
+expect to be bound by it, or to lose money should the price of raw
+material advance, or should he find that any building operations have
+cost more than his original estimate. In such case the man who orders
+manufactured goods or signs a contract for any building operations seems
+to recognize that equity requires him to pay more than was stipulated in
+the bond. When Japanese deal with Japanese this custom is generally
+observed. It is only the foreigner who expects the Japanese to fulfill
+his contract to the letter, and it is the attempt to enforce such
+contracts which gives the foreign merchant his poor opinion of Japanese
+commercial honesty. In time, when the Japanese have learned that they
+must abide by written contracts, these complaints will be heard no
+longer. The present slipshod methods are due to faulty business customs,
+the outgrowth of the old Samurai contempt for trade in any form."</p>
+
+<p>In dealing with small Japanese merchants in various cities, it was my
+experience that they are as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>honest as similar dealers in other
+countries. Usually they demanded about one-half more than they expected
+to receive. Then they made reductions and finally a basis of value was
+agreed upon. This chaffering seems to be a part of their system; but the
+merchants and manufacturers who are brought most often into contact with
+Europeans are coming to have a fixed price for all their goods, on which
+they will give from ten to twenty per cent. reduction, according to the
+amount of purchases. One manufacturer in Kyoto who sold his own goods
+would make no reduction, except in the case of some samples that he was
+eager to sell. His goods were all plainly marked and he calmly allowed
+tourists to leave his store rather than make any cut in his prices. The
+pains and care which the Japanese dealer will take to please his
+customer is something which might be imitated with profit by foreign
+dealers.</p>
+
+<p>A question that is very frequently put is, "What has been the influence
+of Christianity upon Japanese life and thought?" This is extremely
+difficult to answer, because even those who are engaged in missionary
+work are not always in accord in their views. One missionary of thirty
+years' experience said: "The most noteworthy feature of religious work
+in Japan is the number of prominent Japanese who have become converts to
+Christianity. The new Premier, who is very familiar with life in the
+United States, may be cited as one of these converts. Such a man in his
+position of power will be able to do much to help the missionaries. The
+usual charge that Japanese embrace Christianity in order to learn
+English without expense falls to the ground before actual personal
+experience. The converts always seemed to me to be as sincere as
+converts in China or Corea, but it must be admitted that the strong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+materialist bent of modern Japanese education and thought is making it
+more difficult to appeal to the present generation."</p>
+
+<p>An educator who has had much experience with Japanese said: "It looks to
+me as though Japan would soon reach a grave crisis in national life.
+Hitherto Buddhism and Shintoism have been the two forces that have
+preserved the religious faith of the people and kept their patriotism at
+white heat. Now the influences in the public schools are all
+antagonistic to any religious belief. The young men and women are
+growing up (both in the public schools and the government colleges) to
+have a contempt for all the old religious beliefs. They cannot accept
+the Shinto creed that the Emperor is the son of God and should be
+worshiped as a deity by all loyal Japanese. They cannot accept the
+doctrines of Buddha, as they see the New Japan giving the lie to these
+doctrines every day in its home and international dealings. Nothing is
+left but atheism, and the experience of the world proves that there is
+nothing more dangerous to a nation than the loss of its religious faith.
+The women of Japan are slower to accept these new materialist views than
+the men, but the general breaking down of the old faith is something
+which no foreign resident of Japan can fail to see. On the other side
+patriotism is kept alive by the pilgrimages of school children to the
+national shrines, but one is confronted with the questions? Will the
+boys and girls of a few years hence regard these shrines with any
+devotion when they know that Buddhism and Shintoism are founded on a
+faith that science declares has no foundation? Will they offer up money
+and homage to wooden images which their cultivated reason tells them are
+no more worthy of worship than the telegraph poles along the lines of
+the railway?'"</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>The Japanese way of doing things is the exact reverse of the American
+way generally, but if one studies the methods of this Oriental race it
+will be found that their way is frequently most effective. Thus, in
+addressing letters they always put the city first, then the street
+address and finally the number, while they never fail to put the
+writer's name and address on the reverse of the envelope, which saves
+the postoffice employ&eacute;s much trouble and practically eliminates the
+dead-letter office.</p>
+
+<p>The Japanese sampan, as well as other boats, is never painted, but it is
+always scrubbed clean. The sampan has a sharp bow and a wide, square
+stern, and navigators say it will live in a sea which would swamp the
+ordinary Whitehall boat of our water-front. The Japanese oar is long and
+looks unwieldy, being spliced together in the middle. It is balanced on
+a short wooden peg on the gunwale and the oarsman works it like a sweep,
+standing up and bending over it at each stroke. The result is a sculling
+motion, which carries the boat forward very rapidly. In no Japanese
+harbor do the big steamships come up to the wharf. They drop anchor in
+the harbor, and they are always surrounded by small sampans, the owners
+of which are eager to take passengers ashore for about twenty-five cents
+each. All cargo is taken aboard by lighters or unloaded in the same way.
+These lighters hold as much as a railroad freight car.</p>
+
+<p>The fishing boats of Japan add much to the picturesqueness of all the
+harbors, as they have sails arranged in narrow strips laced to bamboo
+poles, and they may be drawn up and lowered like the curtains in an
+American shop window. Whether square or triangular, these sails have a
+graceful appearance and they are handled far more easily than ours.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>The Japanese carpenter, who draws his plane as well as his saw toward
+himself, appears to work in an awkward and ungainly way, but he does as
+fine work as the American cabinet-maker. The beauty of the interior
+woodwork of even the houses of the poorer classes is a constant marvel
+to the tourist. Nothing is ever painted about the Japanese house, so the
+fineness of the grain of the wood is revealed as well as the exquisite
+polish. A specialty of the Japanese carpenter is lattice-work for the
+windows and grill-work for doors. These add very much to the beauty of
+unpretentious houses.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion it may be said that Japan offers the lover of the
+beautiful an unlimited opportunity to gratify his &aelig;sthetic senses. In
+city or country he cannot fail to find on every hand artistic things
+that appeal powerfully to his sense of beauty. Whether in an ancient
+temple or a new home for a poor village artisan, he will see the results
+of the same instinctive sense of the beautiful and the harmonious. The
+lines are always lines of grace, and the colors are always those which
+blend and gratify the eye.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr 2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Will the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?</h3>
+
+
+<p>Any thoughtful visitor to Japan must be impressed with the problems that
+confront Japan to-day, owing to the influence of foreign thought and
+customs. This influence is the more to be dreaded because the Japanese
+are so impressionable and so prone to accept anything which they are
+convinced is superior to their own. They have very little of the Chinese
+passion for what has been made sacred by long usage. They have high
+regard for their ancestors, but very little reverence for their customs
+and opinions. This lack of veneration is shown in striking fashion by
+those Japanese students who come to this country to gain an education.
+These young men are as eager as the ancient Athenians for any new thing,
+and when they return to their old homes each is a center of Occidental
+influence. This is frequently not for the best interests of their
+countrymen, who have not had their own opportunities of observation and
+comparison.</p>
+
+<p>The qualities in which the Japanese excel are the very qualities in
+which so many Americans are deficient. Personal courage and loyalty are
+the traits which Professor Scherer, a distinguished expert, regards as
+the fundamental traits of the Japanese character. That these qualities
+have not been weakened materially was shown in the recent war with
+Russia. In that tremendous struggle was demonstrated the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>power of a
+small nation, in which everyone&mdash;men, women and children&mdash;were united in
+a passionate devotion to their country. No similar spectacle was ever
+shown in modern history. The men who went cheerfully to certain death
+before Port Arthur revealed no higher loyalty than the wives at home who
+committed suicide that their husbands might not be called upon to choose
+between personal devotion to their family and absolute loyalty to the
+nation. The foreign correspondents, who were on
+two-hundred-and-three-metre hill before Port Arthur, have told of the
+Japanese soldiers in the ranks who tied ropes to their feet in order
+that their comrades might pull their bodies back into the trenches. All
+those who were drafted to make the assaults on the Russian works in that
+awful series of encounters (which make the charge of the Light Brigade
+at Balaklava seem cheap and theatrical) knew they were going to certain
+death. Yet these foreign observers have left on record that the only
+sentiment among those who remained in the trenches was envy that they
+had not been so fortunate as to be selected to show this supreme loyalty
+to their country. General Nogi, who recently committed suicide with his
+wife on the day of the funeral of the late Emperor, had two sons dash to
+this certain death on the bloodstained hill before Port Arthur. As
+commander, he could have assigned them to less dangerous positions, but
+it probably never entered his head to shield his own flesh and blood.
+And the same loyalty that is shown to country is also proved in the
+relation of servant to master. The story of the Forty-seven Ronins is
+too well known to need repetition, but the loyalty of these retainers
+(who slew the man that caused their lord's death, although they knew
+that this deed called for their immediate end by their own <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>hands)
+impresses one with new force when he stands before the tombs of these
+men in the Japanese capital and sees the profound reverence in which
+they are still held by the people of Japan.</p>
+
+<p>What puzzles the foreign observer is: Will this passionate loyalty of
+servant to master survive the spectacle of the ingratitude and
+self-interest which the Japanese see in the relation of master and
+servant in most Christian countries? The whole tendency of life in other
+countries than his own is against this loyalty, which has been bred in
+his very marrow. How long, without the mainstay of religion, will the
+Japanese cling to this outworn but beautiful relic of his old life? And
+it must be confessed that religion is rapidly losing its hold on the men
+of Japan. Those who have been abroad are apt to return home
+freethinkers, because the spectacle of the practical working of
+Christianity is not conducive to faith among so shrewd a people as the
+Japanese. Even the example of the foreigners in Japan is an influence
+that the missionaries regard as prejudicial to Christianity.</p>
+
+<p>Another trait of the Japanese which will not be improved by contact with
+foreigners, and especially with Americans, is thoroughness. This trait
+is seen on every hand in Japan. Nothing is built in a slovenly way,
+whether for private use or for the government. The artisan never scamps
+his work. He seems to have retained the old mechanic's pride in doing
+everything well which he sets his hand to do. This is seen in the
+carving of many works of art, as well as in the building of the
+ornamental gateways throughout the empire, that stand as monuments to
+the &aelig;sthetic sense of the people. Yet the whole influence of foreign
+teaching and example is against this thoroughness that is ingrained in
+the Japanese character. The young people cannot fail <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>to see that it
+does not pay their elders to expend so much time and effort to gain
+perfection, when their foreign rivals secure apparently equal if not
+superior results by quick and careless work. It is upon these Japanese
+children that the future of the empire depends. They are sure to be
+infected by these object lessons in the gospel of selfish and careless
+work, which the labor union leaders in our country have preached until
+it has been accepted by the great mass of mechanics.</p>
+
+<p>Another racial quality of the Japanese, which is likely to suffer from
+contact with foreigners, is his politeness. This is innate and not
+acquired; it does not owe any of its force to selfish considerations.
+The traveler in Japan is amazed to see this politeness among all
+classes, just as he sees the artistic impulse flowering among the
+children of rough toilers in the fields. And again the question arises:
+Will the Japanese retain this attractive trait when they come into more
+intimate contact with the foreigner, who believes in courtesy mainly as
+a business asset rather than as a social virtue?</p>
+
+<p>So, in summing up one's impressions of Japan, there comes this
+inevitable doubt of the permanence of the fine qualities which make the
+Japanese nation to-day so distinct from any other. The Japanese may
+differ from all other races in their power of resisting the corrupting
+influences of foreign association, but it is to be feared that the
+visitor to the Mikado's land fifty years from now may not only find no
+Mikado, but none of the peculiarly gracious qualities in the Japanese
+people which to-day set them apart from all other nations.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Asakusa street scene">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate1" id="plate1"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate1.jpg" width="550" height="323" alt="Asakusa street scene" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE I<br />
+Street Scene, Asakusa<br />
+Park, Tokyo. This Picture<br />
+Gives a Good Idea<br />
+of Japanese Street<br />
+Dress of Men and<br />
+Women. The Park<br />
+Contains a
+Twelve-Story<br />
+Tower, Two<br />
+Hundred and Twenty<br />
+Feet in Height
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Millionaire home">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE II<br />
+Entrance Hall and Stairway<br />
+of Modern Home<br />
+of a Tokyo Millionaire.<br />
+Note the Priceless<br />
+Screens With<br />
+Cherry-Blossom Decoration,<br />
+the Bronze Stair Railings<br />
+and the Inlaid Floor
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate2" id="plate2"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate2.jpg" width="550" height="346" alt="Millionaire home" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Shiba Temple">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate3" id="plate3"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate3.jpg" width="550" height="319" alt="Shiba Temple" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE III<br />
+Bronze Lanterns and<br />
+Sacred Fountain, Shiba<br />
+Temple, Tokyo. These<br />
+Temples in Shiba Park<br />
+Are Among the Marvels<br />
+of Japanese<br />
+Art
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Red Bridge">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE IV<br />
+Sacred Red Bridge at<br />
+Nikko. Legend Says It<br />
+Was Built for the Saint<br />
+Shodo Shonin. No<br />
+One Crossed It Except<br />
+the Shoguns and in<br />
+Modern Times the<br />
+Mikado. General<br />
+Grant Was Given a<br />
+Permit to Cross This<br />
+Bridge, but Sensibly<br />
+Refused to Use It
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate4" id="plate4"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate4.jpg" width="550" height="320" alt="Sacred Red Bridge" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Futaaru Temple">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate5" id="plate5"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate5.jpg" width="327" height="550" alt="Futaaru Temple" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE V<br />
+Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko.<br />
+This Picture Gives a Good Idea of the Effectiveness of the<br />
+Tori or Gate, of Black or Red Lacquer or Natural<br />
+Wood, Which Stands at the Entrance<br />
+to Most Parks and Temples
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate6" id="plate6"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate6.jpg" width="317" height="550" alt="Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE VI<br />
+Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko.<br />
+This Splendid Avenue, Lined with Huge Cedar Trees<br />
+from One Hundred and Fifty to Two Hundred<br />
+Feet in Height, Extends for Five Miles<br />
+from Nikko to Imaichi
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Great Bronze Torii">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate7" id="plate7"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate7.jpg" width="321" height="550" alt="Great Bronze Torii" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE VII<br />
+Great Bronze Torii, Nikko.<br />
+These Torii or Gates Form the Most<br />
+Characteristic Feature of Japanese Landscapes. They<br />
+Are Always of the Same Pattern But<br />
+Infinite in Variety of Decoration
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Kasuga Temple Park">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate8" id="plate8"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate8.jpg" width="319" height="550" alt="Kasuga Temple Park" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE VIII<br />
+Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara.<br />
+A Remarkable Collection of Lanterns Which Line<br />
+the Avenue Leading to the Temple. In This<br />
+Park Many Tame Deer Wander, Their<br />
+Horns Being Cut Once a Year<br />
+in October
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Religious Procession">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate9" id="plate9"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate9.jpg" width="321" height="550" alt="Religious Procession" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE IX<br />
+Religious Procession, Kyoto.<br />
+This Gives a Good Idea of a Familiar Sight in<br />
+all Japanese Cities. Many of the Standards Carried in<br />
+These Processions are Very Beautiful,<br />
+With Silk Streamers of<br />
+Many Colors
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Canal, Kyoto">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE X<br />
+Scene on Canal, Kyoto.<br />
+None of the Houses<br />
+That Line This Canal<br />
+Are Elaborate, But All<br />
+Have Balconies Adorned<br />
+With Dwarf Trees and<br />
+Plants in Pots of<br />
+Many Colors. This Is<br />
+One of the Most<br />
+Picturesque Scenes in<br />
+All Japan
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate10" id="plate10"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate10.jpg" width="550" height="323" alt="Canal, Kyoto" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Street Scene in Kobe">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate11" id="plate11"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate11.jpg" width="550" height="319" alt="Street Scene in Kobe" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XI<br />
+Street Scene in Kobe.<br />
+This View Shows the<br />
+Low Two-Story Houses,<br />
+With Overhanging<br />
+Balconies, the Enormous<br />
+Gilded Signs and<br />
+the Absence of All<br />
+Horses in the Street.<br />
+This Street Scene Is<br />
+Typical of All Japanese<br />
+Cities
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Japanese Schoolboys">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XII<br />
+A Group of Japanese<br />
+Schoolboys. These<br />
+Faces, Full of Life and<br />
+Mischief, Are Typical<br />
+of Young Japan. About<br />
+the Only Faces in Japan<br />
+Free From Lines of<br />
+Care Are Those of<br />
+School Children. When<br />
+Over Sixteen the Face<br />
+of the Japanese Becomes<br />
+a Mask Which Conceals<br />
+All Emotions
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate12" id="plate12"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate12.jpg" width="550" height="322" alt="Japanese Schoolboys" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Japanese Peasants">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate13" id="plate13"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate13.jpg" width="321" height="550" alt="Japanese Peasants" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XIII<br />
+Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside.<br />
+These Country People Show Keen Curiosity in<br />
+Regard to the Foreign Tourist but They<br />
+Are Always Courteous
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Private Garden, Kyoto">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XIV<br />
+Scene in Large Private<br />
+Garden, Kyoto. This<br />
+Old Capital of Japan Is<br />
+Noted for Its Many<br />
+Beautiful Gardens, With<br />
+Ponds Well Stocked<br />
+With Goldfish and<br />
+Crossed by Miniature<br />
+Bridges
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate14" id="plate14"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate14.jpg" width="550" height="317" alt="Private Garden, Kyoto" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Iris Bed">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate15" id="plate15"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate15.jpg" width="550" height="322" alt="Iris Bed" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XV<br />
+Iris Bed at Horikiri,<br />
+near Tokyo. This<br />
+Flower Resort is the<br />
+Scene of Many Pilgrimages<br />
+in June When the<br />
+Irises Are in Full<br />
+Bloom
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Private Garden, Kamakura">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate16" id="plate16"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate16.jpg" width="322" height="550" alt="Private Garden, Kamakura" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XVI<br />
+Private Garden, Kamakura.<br />
+This Gives a Good Idea of the Arrangement<br />
+of a Japanese Garden. To the Influence of the<br />
+Garden is Ascribed the Japanese Love of<br />
+the Beautiful in Nature and Art
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p>
+<h2>
+MANILA,<br />
+TRANSFORMED BY THE<br />
+AMERICANS
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span></p>
+<h3>First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People</h3>
+
+
+<p>The bay of Manila is so extensive that the steamer appears to be
+entering a great inland sea. The shores are low-lying and it takes about
+an hour before the steamer nears the city, so that one can make out the
+landmarks. To the right, as one approaches the city, is Cavite, which
+Dewey took on that historic May day in 1898. The spires of many churches
+are the most conspicuous landmarks in Manila, but as the distance
+lessens a huge mass of concrete, the new Manila hotel, looms up near the
+docks. The bay is full of ships and alongside the docks are a number of
+passenger and freight steamers.</p>
+
+<p>Just as we are able to make out these things, our ears catch the strains
+of a fine band of music and we see two launches rapidly nearing the
+ship. In one is a portion of the splendid Constabulary Band, the finest
+in the Orient. In the other launch was the special committee of the
+Manila Merchants' Association. The band played several stirring airs,
+everybody cheered and waved handkerchiefs and for a few minutes it
+looked as though an impromptu Fourth of July celebration had begun. It
+is difficult to describe an American's emotions when he sees the Stars
+and Stripes for the first time in five weeks. The most phlegmatic man on
+the ship danced a war dance, women wept, and when the reception
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>committee boarded the ship and met the passengers in the dining saloon
+there was great enthusiasm. Plans were arranged for crowding into the
+two days' stay all the sightseeing and entertainment possible and these
+plans were carried out, giving a fine proof of Manila hospitality.</p>
+
+<p>Manila differs from most of the Oriental cities in the fact that
+American enterprise has constructed great docks and dredged out the
+harbor so that the largest steamers may anchor alongside the docks. In
+Yokohama, Kobe, Hongkong and other ports ships anchor in the bay and
+passengers and freight must be transferred to the shore by launches and
+lighters. Reinforced concrete is now the favorite building material of
+the new Manila. Not only are the piles and docks made of this material,
+but all the new warehouses and business buildings as well as most of the
+American and foreign residences are of concrete. It is substantial,
+clean, cool and enduring, meeting every requirement of this tropical
+climate. The white ant, which is so destructive to the ordinary wooden
+pile, does not attack it.</p>
+
+<p>The Pasig river divides Manila into two sections. On the south side of
+the old walled city are the large districts of Malate, Ermito and Paco.
+On the north side is the principal retail business street, the Escolta
+and the other business thoroughfares lined with small shops, and six
+large native districts. The Escolta is only four blocks long, very
+narrow, with sidewalks barely three feet wide; yet here is done most of
+the foreign retail trade. In a short time a new Escolta will be built in
+the filled district, as it would cost too much to widen the old street.
+As a car line runs through the Escolta, there is a bad congestion of
+traffic at all times except in the early morning hours. The Bridge of
+Spain is one of the impressive <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>sights of Manila. With its massive
+arches of gray stone, it looks as though it would be able to endure for
+many more centuries. One of the oldest structures in the city, it was
+built originally on pontoons, and it was provided with the present
+arches in 1630. Only one earthquake, that of 1863, damaged it. Then two
+of the middle arches gave way, and these were not restored for twelve
+years. The roadway is wide, but it is crowded all day with as
+picturesque a procession as may be seen in any part of the world. The
+carromata, a light, two-wheeled cart, with hooded cover, pulled by a
+native pony, is the favorite conveyance of the foreigners and the better
+class of the Filipinos. The driver sits in front, while two may ride
+very comfortably on the back seat. It is a great improvement on the
+Japanese jinrikisha because one may compare impressions with a
+companion. The country cart is built something like the carromata and
+will accommodate four people. Hundreds of these carts come into Manila
+every day with small stocks of vegetables and fruit for sale at the
+markets. A few victorias may be seen on the bridge, but what causes most
+of the congestion is the carabao cart, hauling the heavy freight. The
+carabao (pronounced carabough, with the accent on the last syllable), is
+the water buffalo of the Philippines, a slow, ungainly beast of burden
+that proves patient and tractable so long as he can enjoy a daily swim.
+If cut off from water the beast becomes irritable, soon gets "loco" and
+is then dangerous, as it will attack men or animals and gore them with
+its sharp horns. The carabao has little hair and its nose bears a strong
+resemblance to that of the hippopotamus. Its harness consists of a
+neckyoke of wood fastened to the thills of the two-wheeled cart. On this
+cart is frequently piled two tons, which the carabao pulls easily.</p>
+
+<p> <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>Another bridge which has historic interest for the American is the San
+Juan bridge. It is reached by the Santa Mesa car line. Here at either
+end were encamped the American and Filipino armed forces, and the
+insurrection was started by a shot at night from the native trenches.
+The bridge was the scene of fierce fighting, which proved disastrous to
+the Filipinos.</p>
+
+<p>Aside from the bridges and the life along the Pasig river, the most
+interesting part of Manila lies within the old walled city. This section
+is known locally as "IntraMuros." It is still surrounded by the massive
+stone wall, which was begun in 1591 but not actually completed until
+1872. The wall was built to protect the city from free-booters, as
+Manila, like old Panama, offered a tempting prize to pirates. Into the
+wall was built old Fort Santiago, which still stands. The wall varies in
+thickness from three to forty feet, and in it were built many chambers
+used as places of confinement and torture. Until six years ago a wide
+moat surrounded the wall, but the stagnant water bred disease and the
+moat was filled with the silt dredged up from the bay. Fort Santiago
+forms the northwest corner of the wall. Its predecessor was a palisade
+of bags, built in 1571, behind which the Spaniards defended themselves
+against the warlike native chiefs. In 1590 the stone fort was begun.
+Within it was the court of the military government. Seven gates were
+used as entrances to the walled city in old Spanish days, the most
+picturesque being the Real gate, bearing the date of 1780, and the Santa
+Lucia gate, with the inscription of 1781. These gates were closed every
+night, and some of the massive machinery used for this purpose may be
+seen lying near by&mdash;a reminder of those good old days when the belated
+traveler camped outside.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>In the old walled city are some of the famous churches of Manila. The
+oldest is San Augustin, first dedicated in 1571. The present structure
+was built two years later, the first having been completely destroyed by
+fire. The enormously thick walls were laid so well that they have
+withstood the severe earthquakes which proved so destructive to many
+other churches. In this church are buried Legaspi and Salcedo, the
+explorers, who spread Spanish dominion over the Philippines.</p>
+
+<p>The Church of St. Ignatius is famous for the beautifully carved woodwork
+of the pulpit and the interior decorations; that of Santo Domingo is
+celebrated for its finely carved doors. The greatest shrine in the
+Phillippines is the Cathedral, which fronts on Plaza McKinley. This is
+the fifth building erected on the same site, fire having destroyed the
+other four. The architecture is Byzantine, and the interior gives a
+wonderful impression of grace and spaciousness. Some of the old doors
+and iron grill-work of the ancient cathedrals have been retained.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
+<h3>American Work in the Philippine Islands</h3>
+
+
+<p>It will surprise any American visitor to the Philippine Islands to find
+how much has been accomplished since 1898 to make life better worth
+living for the Filipino as well as for the European or the American.
+Civil government through the Philippine Commission has been in active
+operation for ten years. During this decade what Americans have achieved
+in solving difficult problems of colonial government is matter for
+national pride. The American method in the Philippines looks to giving
+the native the largest measure of self-government of which he is
+capable. It has not satisfied the Filipino, because he imagines that he
+is all ready for self-government, but it has done much to lift him out
+of the dead level of peonage in which the Spaniard kept him and to open
+the doors of opportunity to young Filipinos with ability and energy. I
+talked with many men in various professions and in many kinds of
+business and all agreed that the American system worked wonders in
+advancing the natives of real ability.</p>
+
+<p>Rev. Dr. George W. Wright of Manila, who has charge of a large
+Presbyterian seminary for training young Filipinos for the ministry, and
+who has had much experience in teaching, said: "In the old days only the
+sons of the illustrados, or prominent men of the noble class, had any
+chance to secure an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>education and this education was given in the
+Catholic private schools. With the advent of the Americans any boy
+possessing the faculty of learning quickly may get a good education,
+provided he will work for it. I know of one case of a boy who did not
+even know who his parents were. He gained a living by blacking shoes and
+selling papers. He came to me for aid in entering a night school. He
+learned more rapidly than anyone I ever knew. Soon he came to me and
+wanted a job that would occupy him half a day so that he could go to
+school the other half of the day. I got him the job and in a few months
+he was not only perfecting himself in English, but reading law. Nothing
+can keep this boy down; in a few years he will be a leader among his
+people. Under the old Spanish system he never would have been permitted
+to rise from the low caste in which fortune first placed him."</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Imperial Gate">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="imperial" id="imperial"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/057.jpg" width="385" height="550" alt="Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila.<br />
+This is the Main Entrance to the Old Fort,<br />
+Built Into the Massive Wall. This Wall<br />
+Was for Spanish Defense Against<br />
+Warlike Native Chiefs
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>More than a thousand American teachers are scattered over the Philippine
+Islands, and for ten years these men and women have been training the
+young of both sexes. Some have proved incompetent, a few have set a very
+bad example, but the great majority have done work of which any nation
+might be proud. They have not only been teachers of the young, but they
+have been counselors and friends of the parents of their pupils.</p>
+
+<p>The work done in a material way in the Philippines is even more
+remarkable. Of the first importance is the offer of a homestead to every
+citizen from the public lands. So much was paid for the friar lands that
+these are far beyond the reach of anyone of ordinary means, but the
+government has large reserves of public land, which only need
+cultivation to make them valuable. Sanitary conditions have been
+enormously improved both in Manila and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>throughout the islands. In the
+old days Manila was notorious for many deaths from cholera, bubonic
+plague and smallpox. No sanitary regulations were enforced and the
+absence of any provisions for sewage led to fearful pestilences. Now not
+only has Manila an admirable sewerage system, but the people have been
+taught to observe sanitary regulations, with the result that in the
+suburbs of such a city as Manila the homes of common people reveal much
+better conditions than the homes of similar classes in Japan. The sewage
+of Manila is pumped three times into large sumps before it is finally
+dumped into the bay a mile from the city.</p>
+
+<p>The island military police, known as the Constabulary Guard, has done
+more to improve conditions throughout the islands than any other agency.
+The higher officers are drawn from the United States regular army, but
+the captains and lieutenants are from civil life, and they are mainly
+made up of young college graduates. These men get their positions
+through the civil service and, though some fail to make good, the great
+majority succeed. Their positions demand unusual ability, for they not
+only have charge of companies of native police that resemble the Mexican
+rurales or the Canadian mounted police, but they serve as counselor and
+friend to all the Filipinos in their district. In this way their
+influence is frequently greater than that of the school teachers.</p>
+
+<p>All this work and much more has been accomplished by the insular
+government without calling upon the United States for any material help.
+It does not seem to be generally known that the Philippine Islands are
+now self-supporting, and that the only expense entailed on the general
+government is a slight increase for maintaining regiments assigned <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>to
+the island service and the cost of Corregidor fortifications and other
+harbor defenses. This has been accomplished without excessive taxation.
+Personal property is exempt, while the rate on real estate in Manila is
+only one and one-half per cent. on the assessed valuation, and only
+seven-eights of one per cent. in the provinces. The fiscal system has
+been put on a gold basis, thus removing the old fluctuating silver
+currency which was a great hardship to trade.</p>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Scenes in the City of Manila and Suburbs</h3>
+
+<p>Every visitor to Manila in the old days exhausted his vocabulary in
+praise of the Luneta, the old Spanish city's pleasure ground, which
+overlooked the bay and Corregidor Island. It was an oval drive, with a
+bandstand at each end, inclosing a pretty grass plot. Here, as evening
+came on, all Manila congregated to hear the band play and to meet
+friends. The Manilan does not walk, so the broad drive was filled with
+several rows of carriages passing slowly around the oval. To-day the
+Luneta remains as it was in the old Spanish days, but its chief charm,
+the seaward view, is gone. This is due to the filling in of the harbor
+front, which has left the Luneta a quarter of a mile from the
+water-front. However, a new Luneta has been made below the old one, and
+the broad avenues opened up near by give far more space for carriages
+than before. Every evening except Monday the Constabulary Band plays on
+the Luneta, and the scene is almost as brilliant as in the old days, as
+the American Government officials make it a point to turn out in
+uniform. Nothing can be imagined more perfect than the evenings in
+Manila after the heat of the day. The air is deliciously soft and a
+gentle breeze from the ocean tempers the heat.</p>
+
+<p>The best way to see the native life of Manila is to take a street-car
+ride through the Tondo and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>Caloocan districts, or a launch ride up the
+Pasig river. On the cars one passes through the heart of the business
+district, the great Tondo market, filled with supplies from the
+surrounding country as well as many small articles of native or foreign
+manufacture. This car line also passes the Maypajo, the largest cockpit
+in the world, where at regular intervals the best fighting cocks are
+pitted against each other and the betting is as spirited as on American
+race tracks in the old days. On the return trip by these cars one passes
+by the San Juan bridge, which marked the opening of the insurrection;
+the old Malacanan Palace, now the residence of Governor-General Forbes,
+and the Paco Cemetery, where several thousand bodies are buried in the
+great circular wall which surrounds the church. These niches in the wall
+are rented for a certain yearly sum, and in the old Spanish days, when
+this rental was not promptly paid by relatives, the corpse was removed
+and thrown with others into a great pit. Recently this ghastly practice
+has been frowned on by the authorities.</p>
+
+<p>The average Manila resident does not pay more than fifty dollars in our
+money for his nipa house. The framework is of bamboo, bound together by
+rattan; the roof timbers are of bamboo, while the sides of the house and
+the thatch are made from the nipa tree. The sides look like mats. The
+windows are of translucent shell, while the door is of nipa or wood.
+These houses are usually about fifteen feet square, with one large room,
+and are raised about six feet from the ground. Under the house is kept
+the live stock. When the family has a horse or cow or carabao the house
+is ten feet from the ground, and these animals are stabled underneath.
+In nearly every house or yard may be found a game cock tied by the leg
+to prevent him from roaming and fighting.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>In most of the houses that the cars passed in the big native quarter of
+Tondo, furniture was scanty. Usually the family has a large dresser,
+which is ornamented with cheap pictures, and the walls are frequently
+covered with prints in colors. There is no furniture, as the Filipino's
+favorite position is to squat on his haunches. In many of the poorest
+houses, however, were gramophones, which are paid for in monthly
+installments of a dollar or two. The Filipinos are very fond of music,
+and the cheap gramophones appeal to them strongly. Nearly every Filipino
+plays some instrument by ear, and many boys from the country are expert
+players on the guitar or mandolin. On large plantations the hands are
+fond of forming bands and orchestras, and often their playing would do
+credit to professional musicians. The Constabulary Band, recognized as
+the finest in the Orient, has been drilled by an American negro named
+Loring.</p>
+
+<p>In the Santa Mesa district are the houses of wealthy Filipinos. These
+are usually of two stories, with the upper story projecting far over the
+lower, and with many ornamental dormer windows, with casement sashes of
+small pieces of translucent shell. In Manila the window is provided to
+keep out the midday heat and glare of the sun. At other times the
+windows are slid into the walls, and thus nearly the whole side of the
+house is open to the cool night air. Many of these houses are finished
+in the finest hardwoods, and not a few have polished mahogany floors.
+Bamboo and rattan furniture may be seen in some of these houses, while
+in others are dressers and wardrobes in the rich native woods. These
+houses are embowered in trees, among which the magnolia, acacia and palm
+are the favorites, with banana and pomelo trees heavy with fruit.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Escolta">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate17" id="plate17"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate17.jpg" width="550" height="377" alt="Escolta, Manila" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XVII<br />
+A Glimpse of the Escolta,<br />
+Manila. The Escolta,<br />
+Only Four Blocks<br />
+In Length, Is the Business<br />
+Street in Manila.<br />
+Clarke's, the Restaurant<br />
+and Tea-House in the<br />
+Foreground, Is the<br />
+Favorite American<br />
+Headquarters in<br />
+Manila
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Pasig Old Church">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XVIII<br />
+Old Church and Bridge<br />
+at Pasig. Built of<br />
+Massive Stone and<br />
+Overgrown With Moss,<br />
+This Bridge and<br />
+Church Seems Older<br />
+Than the Ancient Wall<br />
+of Manila
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate18" id="plate18"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate18.jpg" width="550" height="440" alt="Pasig Old Church" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Binondo Canal">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate19" id="plate19"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate19.jpg" width="375" height="550" alt="Binondo Canal" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XIX<br />
+The Binondo Canal, Which Intersects a<br />
+Crowded District of Manila. The Picture Gives<br />
+a Good Idea of the Cascoes or Native<br />
+Cargo Boats
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Malecon Drive">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate20" id="plate20"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate20.jpg" width="380" height="550" alt="Malecon Drive" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XX<br />
+On the Malecon Drive, Manila.<br />
+One of the Picturesque Roads, Lined<br />
+With Feathery Palms, That<br />
+Lead to the Luneta
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Manila Canal">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate21" id="plate21"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate21.jpg" width="375" height="550" alt="Manila Canal" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XXI<br />
+View on a Manila Canal.<br />
+This Gives a Good Idea of the Native Nipa<br />
+Huts Along the Banks of the Canal,<br />
+and a Bamboo Foot-bridge
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Filipino Peasant Girl">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate22" id="plate22"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate22.jpg" width="376" height="550" alt="Filipino Peasant Girl" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XXII<br />
+A Filipino Peasant Girl on the<br />
+Way to Market. She Wears the Native Costume<br />
+With the Enormous Bamboo Hat.<br />
+The Water Jar is Like the<br />
+Spanish-American Olla
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Carabao Cart">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate23" id="plate23"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate23.jpg" width="382" height="550" alt="Carabao Cart" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XXIII<br />
+The Carabao Cart in the Philippines.<br />
+The Carabao or Water Buffalo is the Filipinos' Chief<br />
+Beast of Burden. The Cart is Crude and Heavy,<br />
+With a Home-made Yoke. The Buffalo<br />
+is also Used for Ploughing and<br />
+Other Farm Work
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Nipa Hut">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXIV<br />
+The Nipa Hut of the<br />
+Filipino. This Style of<br />
+House, With Bamboo<br />
+Frame and Thatched<br />
+Sides and Roof of Nipa<br />
+Grass, Costs About<br />
+Fifty Mex. or Twenty-Five<br />
+Dollars in United<br />
+States Gold Coin. It<br />
+Is Usually About<br />
+Six Feet From the<br />
+Ground
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate24" id="plate24"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate24.jpg" width="550" height="385" alt="Nipa Hut" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p>
+<h2>
+HONGKONG,<br />
+CANTON, SINGAPORE<br />
+AND RANGOON
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient</h3>
+
+<p>The entrance to the harbor of Hongkong is one of the most impressive in
+the world. The steamer runs along by the mainland for several miles.
+Then a great island is descried, covered with smelting works, huge
+dockyards, great warehouses and other evidences of commercial activity.
+This is the lower end of the island of Victoria, on which the city of
+Hongkong has been built. The island was ceded by China to Great Britain
+in 1842, after the conclusion of the opium war. It is separated from the
+mainland of China by an arm of the sea, varying from one mile to five
+miles in width. This forms the harbor of Hongkong, one of the most
+spacious and picturesque in the world. It is crowded with steamers,
+ferryboats, Chinese junks with queer-shaped sails of yellow matting,
+sampans, trim steam launches and various other craft. As the vessel
+passes beyond the smelting works and the dry docks it rounds a point and
+the beauty of Hongkong is revealed.</p>
+
+<p>The city is built at the foot of a steep hill nearly two thousand feet
+in height. Along the crescent harbor front are ranged massive business
+buildings with colonaded fronts and rows of windows. Behind the business
+section the hills rise so abruptly that many of the streets are seen to
+be merely rows of granite stairs. Still farther back are the homes of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>Hongkong residents, beautiful stone or brick structures, which look out
+upon the busy harbor. With a glass one can make out the cable railroad
+which climbs straight up the mountainside for over one thousand feet and
+then turns sharply to the right until the station is reached, about
+thirteen hundred feet above sea level.</p>
+
+<p>Hongkong differs radically from Yokohama, Tokio, Kobe, Nagasaki or
+Manila, because of the blocks of solid, granite-faced buildings that
+line its water front, each with its rows of Venetian windows, recessed
+in balconies. This is the prevailing architecture for hotels, business
+buildings and residences, while dignity is lent to every structure by
+the enormous height between stories, the average being from fifteen to
+eighteen feet. This impression of loftiness is increased by the use of
+the French window, which extends from the floor almost to the ceiling,
+all the windows being provided with large transoms.</p>
+
+<p>The feature of Hongkong which impresses the stranger the most vividly is
+the great mixture of races in the streets. Here for the first time one
+finds the sedan chair, with two or four bearers. It is used largely in
+Hongkong for climbing the steep streets which are impossible for the
+jinrikisha. The bearers are low-class coolies from the country, whose
+rough gait makes riding in a chair the nearest approach to horseback
+exercise. The jinrikisha is also largely in evidence, but the bearers
+are a great contrast in their rapacious manners to the courteous and
+smiling Japanese in all the cities of the Mikado's land.</p>
+
+<p>Queen's road, the main business street of Hongkong, furnishes an
+extraordinary spectacle at any hour of the day. The roadway is lined
+with shops, while the sidewalks, covered by the verandas of the second
+stories of the buildings, form a virtual arcade, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>protected from the
+fierce rays of the sun. These shops are mainly designed to catch the eye
+of the foreigner, and they are filled with a remarkable collection of
+silks, linens, ivories, carvings and other articles that appeal to the
+American because of the skilled labor that has been expended upon them.
+Carvings and embroidery that represent the work of months are sold at
+such low prices as to make one marvel how anyone can afford to produce
+them even in this land of cheap living.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd that streams past these shops is even more curious than the
+goods offered for sale. Here East and West meet in daily association.
+The Englishman is easily recognized by his air of proprietorship,
+although his usual high color is somewhat reduced by the climate. He has
+stamped his personality on Hongkong and he has builded here for
+generations to come. The German is liberally represented, and old
+Hongkong residents bewail the fact that every year sees a larger number
+of Emperor William's subjects intent on wresting trade from the British.
+Frenchmen and other Europeans pass along this Queen's road, and the
+American tourist is in evidence, intent on seeing all the sights as well
+as securing the best bargains from the shopkeepers. All these foreigners
+have modified their garb to suit the climate. They wear suits of white
+linen or pongee with soft shirts, and the solar topi, or pith helmet,
+which is a necessity in summer and a great comfort at other seasons. The
+helmet keeps the head cool and shelters the nape of the neck, which
+cannot be exposed safely to the sun's rays. Instead of giving health as
+the California sun does, this Hongkong sunshine brings heat apoplexy and
+fever. All the Orient is represented by interesting types. Here are rich
+Chinese merchants going by in private <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>chairs, with bearers in handsome
+silk livery; Parsees from Bombay, with skins almost as black as those of
+the American negro; natives of other parts of India in their
+characteristic dress and their varying turbans; Sikh policemen, tall,
+powerful men, who have a lordly walk and who beat and kick the Chinese
+chair coolies and rickshaw men when they prove too insistent or
+rapacious; Chinese of all classes, from the prosperous merchant to the
+wretched coolie whose prominent ribs show how near he lives to actual
+starvation in this overcrowded land; workmen of all kinds, many bearing
+their tools, and swarms of peddlers and vendors of food, crying their
+wares, with scores of children, many of whom lead blind beggars.
+Everywhere is the noise of many people shouting lustily, the cries of
+chair coolies warning the passersby to clear the way for their
+illustrious patrons.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese seem unable to do anything without an enormous expenditure
+of talk and noise. Ordinary bargaining looks like the beginning of a
+fierce fight. Any trifling accident attracts a great crowd, which
+becomes excited at the slightest provocation. It is easy to see from an
+ordinary walk in this Hongkong street how panic or rage may convert the
+stolid Chinese into a deadly maniac, who will stop at no outburst of
+violence, no atrocity, that will serve to wreak his hatred of the
+foreigner.</p>
+
+<p>Although Hongkong has been Europeanized in its main streets, there are
+quarters of the city only a few blocks away from the big hotels and
+banks which give one glimpses of genuine native life. Some of these
+streets are reached by scores of granite steps that climb the steep
+mountainside. These streets are not over twelve or fifteen feet wide,
+and the shops are mere holes in the wall, with a frontage of eight or
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>ten feet. Yet many of these dingy shops contain thousands of dollars'
+worth of decorated silks and linens, artistic carvings, laces, curios
+and many other articles of Chinese manufacture. Unlike the Japanese, who
+will follow the tourist to the sidewalk and urge him to buy, these
+Chinese storekeepers show no eagerness to make sales. They must be urged
+to display their fine goods, and they cannot be hurried. The best time
+to see these native streets is at night. Take a chair if the climate
+overpowers you, but walk if you can. Then a night stroll through this
+teeming quarter will always remain in the memory. Every one is working
+hard, as in Japan, for the Chinese workday seems endless. All kinds of
+manufacture are being carried on here in these narrow little shops; the
+workers are generally stripped to the waist, wearing only loose short
+trousers of cheap blue or brown cotton, the lamplight gleaming on their
+sweating bodies. Here are goldsmiths beating out the jewelry for which
+Hongkong is famous; next are scores of shops in all of which shoes are
+being made; then follow workers in willow-ware and rattan, makers of
+hats, furniture and hundreds of other articles. In every block is an
+eating-house, with rows of natives squatted on benches, and with large
+kettles full of evil-smelling messes. The crowds in the streets vie with
+the crowds in the stores in the noise that they make; the air reeks with
+the odors of sweating men, the smell of unsavory food, the stench of
+open gutters. This panorama of naked bodies, of wild-eyed yellow faces
+drawn with fatigue and heat passes before ones' eyes for an hour. Then
+the senses begin to reel and it is time to leave this scene of Oriental
+life that is far lower and more repulsive than the most crowded streets
+in the terrible East Side tenement quarter of New York on a midsummer
+night.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>Hongkong, both in the European and native quarters, is built to endure
+for centuries. Most of the houses are of granite or plastered brick. The
+streets are paved with granite slabs. Even the private residences have
+massive walls and heavy roofs of red or black tile; the gardens are
+screened from the street by high walls, with broken glass worked into
+the mortar that forms the coping and with tall iron entrance gates.
+These residences dot the side hill above the town. They are built upon
+terraces, which include the family tennis court. The roads wind around
+the mountainside, many of them quarried out of solid rock. All the
+building material of these houses had to be carried up the steep
+mountainside by coolies and, until the cable railway was finished, the
+dwellers were borne to their homes at night by chair coolies.</p>
+
+<p>This cable railway carries one nearly to the top of the peak back of
+Hongkong, and from the station a short walk brings one to the summit,
+where a wireless station is used to flash arrivals of vessels to the
+city below. The view from this summit, and from the splendid winding
+road which leads to the Peak Hospital, not far away, is one of the
+finest in the world. The harbor, dotted with many ships and small boats,
+the indented coast for a score of miles, the bare and forbidding Chinese
+territory across the bay, the big city at the foot of the hill; all
+these are spread out below like a great panorama.</p>
+
+<p>The British are firmly entrenched at Hongkong. Not only have they actual
+ownership of Victoria Island, on which Hongkong is built, but they have
+a perpetual lease of a strip of the mainland across from the island,
+extending back for over one hundred miles. The native city across the
+bay is Kowloon, and is reached by a short ride on the new <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>railroad
+which will eventually connect Hankow with Paris. On the barren shore,
+about a mile from Hongkong, has been founded the European settlement of
+Kowloon City. It comprises a row of large warehouses, or godowns, a big
+naval victualling station and coaling depot, large barracks for two
+regiments of Indian infantry and several companies of Indian artillery,
+with many fine quarters for European officers. The city in recent years
+has become a favorite residence place for Hongkong business men, as it
+is reached in a few minutes by a good ferry. Near by are the great naval
+docks at Hunghom, extensive cement works and the deepest railway cut in
+the world, the material being used to fill in the bay of Hunghom.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p>
+<h3>A Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic</h3>
+
+<p>Every traveler who has seen the Orient will tell you not to miss Canton,
+the greatest business center of China, the most remarkable city of the
+empire, and among the most interesting cities of the world. It is only a
+little over eighty miles from Hongkong, and if one wishes to save time
+it may be reached by a night boat.</p>
+
+<p>While in Manila I heard very disturbing reports of rioting in Canton and
+possible bloodshed in the contest between the Manchus in control of the
+army and the revolutionists. This rioting followed the assassination of
+the Tartar general, who was blown up, with a score of his bodyguard, as
+he was formally entering the city by the main south gate. When Hongkong
+was reached these rumors of trouble became more persistent, and they
+were given point by the arrival every day by boat and train of thousands
+of refugees from Canton. Every day the bulletin boards in the Chinese
+quarter contained dispatches from Canton, around which a swarm of
+excited coolies gathered and discussed the news. One night came the news
+that the Viceroy had acknowledged the revolutionists and had agreed to
+surrender on the following day. This report was received with great
+enthusiasm, and hundreds of dollars' worth of firecrackers were burned
+to celebrate the success of the new national movement.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>That night I left Hongkong on the Quong Si, one of the Chinese boats
+that ply between Hongkong and Canton, under the British flag. A
+half-dozen American tourists were also on the boat, including several
+ladies.</p>
+
+<p>The trip up the estuary of the Pearl river that leads to Canton was made
+without incident, and the boat anchored in the river opposite the
+Shameen or foreign concession early in the morning, but the passengers
+remained on board until about eight-thirty o'clock. The reports that
+came from the shore were not reassuring. Guides who came out in sampans
+said that there was only a forlorn hope of getting into the walled city,
+as nearly all the gates had been closed for two days. They also brought
+the alarming news that the Viceroy had reconsidered his decision of the
+previous night and had sent word that he proposed to resist by force any
+effort of the revolutionists to capture the city. The flag of the
+revolution had also been hauled down and the old familiar yellow
+dragon-flag hoisted in its place.</p>
+
+<p>While waiting for the guide to arrange for chairs to take the party
+through the city, we had a good opportunity to study the river life
+which makes Canton unique among Chinese cities. Out of the total
+population of over two millions, at least a quarter of a million live in
+boats from birth to death and know no other home. Many of these boats
+are large cargo junks which ply up and down the river and bring produce
+to the great city market, but the majority are small sampans that house
+one Chinese family and that find constant service in transferring
+passengers and freight from one side of the river to the other, as well
+as to and from the hundreds of steamers that call at the port. They have
+a covered cabin into which the family retires at night.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>These sampans are mainly rowed by women, who handle the boats with great
+skill. A young girl usually plies the short oar on the bow, while her
+mother, assisted by the younger children, works the large oar or sweep
+in the stern. The middle of the sampan is covered by a bamboo house, and
+in the forward part of this house the family has its kitchen fire and
+all its arrangements for food. The passenger sits on the after seat near
+the stern of the boat. These boats are scrubbed so that the woodwork
+shines, and the backs of the seats are covered with fresh matting.</p>
+
+<p>Looking out from the steamer one saw at least two miles of these small
+sampans and larger craft massed along both shores of the river, which is
+here about a half-mile wide. The foreign concession or Shameen is free
+from these boats. It is really a sand spit, surrounded by water, which
+was made over to the foreigners after the opium war.</p>
+
+<p>North of the Shameen is the new western suburb of Canton, which has
+recently been completed on European lines. It has a handsome bund,
+finely paved, with substantial buildings facing the river. Close up
+against this bund, and extending down the river bank for at least two
+miles are ranged row on row of houseboats. Every few minutes a boat
+darts out from the mass and is pulled to one of the ships in the stream.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="City of Boats, Canton">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="canton" id="canton"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/074.jpg" width="550" height="368" alt="City of Boats, canton" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+The City of Boats at<br />
+Canton. This Floating<br />
+City in the Pearl<br />
+River Opposite Canton<br />
+Contains 250,000<br />
+People, Many of Whom<br />
+Never Venture<br />
+On Land
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Across the river and massed against the shore of Honam, the suburb
+opposite Canton, is another tangle of sampans, with thousands of active
+river folk, all shouting and screaming. These yellow thousands toiling
+from break of day to late at night do not seem human; yet each boat has
+its family life. The younger children are tied so that they cannot fall
+overboard, and the older ones wear ingenious floats <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>which will buoy
+them up should they tumble into the water. Boys and girls four or five
+years old assist in the working of the boat, while girls of twelve or
+fourteen are experts in handling the oar and in using the long bamboo
+boat hook that serves to carry the small craft out of the tangle of
+river activity.</p>
+
+<p>A type of river steamer which will amaze the American is an old
+stern-wheeler run by man power. It is provided with a treadmill just
+forward of the big stern wheel. Two or three tiers of naked, perspiring
+coolies are working this treadmill, all moving with the accuracy and
+precision of machinery. The irreverent foreigner calls these the
+"hotfoot" boats, and in the land where a coolie may be hired all day for
+forty cents Mexican or twenty cents in our coin this human power is far
+cheaper than soft coal at five dollars a ton. These boats carry freight
+and passengers and they move along at a lively pace.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour spent in study of this strange river life I was fortunate
+enough to go ashore with an American missionary whose husband was
+connected with a large college across the river from Canton. She came
+aboard in a sampan to take ashore two ladies from Los Angeles. She
+invited me to accompany the party, and as she spoke Chinese fluently I
+was glad to accept her offer. We went ashore in a sampan and at once
+proceeded to visit the western suburb. This part of Canton has been
+built in recent years and is somewhat cleaner than the old town. It is
+separated from the Shameen by bridges which may be drawn up like an
+ancient portcullis. Here we at once plunged into the thick of native
+life. The streets, not over ten feet wide, were crowded with people.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through streets devoted wholly to markets and restaurants, and
+the spectacle was enough <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>to keep one from ever indulging hereafter in
+chop-suey. Here were tables spread with the intestines of various
+animals, pork in every form, chickens and ducks, roasted and covered
+with some preparation that made them look as though just varnished. Here
+were many strange vegetables and fruits, and here, hung against the
+wall, were row on row of dried rats. At a neighboring stall were several
+small, flat tubs, in which live fish swam about, waiting for a customer
+to order them knocked on the head. Then we passed into a street of curio
+shops, but the grill work in front was closed and behind could be seen
+the timid proprietors, who evidently did not mean to take any chances of
+having their stores looted by robbers. For three or four days the most
+valuable goods in all the Canton stores had been removed as rapidly as
+possible. Thousands of bales of silk and tons of rare curios were
+already safe in the foreign warehouses at the Shameen or had been
+carried down the river to Hongkong. Often we had to flatten ourselves
+against the sides of the street to give passage to chairs containing
+high-class Chinese and their families, followed by coolies bearing the
+most valuable of their possessions packed in cedar chests.</p>
+
+<p>At an American hospital we were met by several young Englishmen
+connected with medical and Young Men's Christian Association work. They
+proposed a trip through the old walled city, but they refused to take
+the two ladies, as they said it would be dangerous in the excited
+condition of the people. So we set out, five in number. After a short
+walk we reached one of the gates of the walled city, only to find it
+closed and locked. A short walk brought us to a second gate, which was
+opened readily by the Chinese guards, armed with a new type of German
+army rifle. The walls of the old city <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>were fully ten feet thick where
+we entered, and about twenty feet high, made of large slabs of granite.</p>
+
+<p>Once inside the city walls a great surprise awaited us. Instead of
+crowded streets and the hum of trade were deserted streets, closed shops
+and absolute desolation. For blocks the only persons seen were soldiers
+and refugees making their way to the gates. In one fine residence
+quarter an occasional woman peered through the front gates; in other
+sections all the houses were closed and barred. Soon we reached the
+Buddhist temple, known as the Temple of Horrors. Around the central
+courtyard are grouped a series of booths, in each of which are wooden
+figures representing the torture of those who commit deadly sins. In one
+booth a victim is being sawed in two; in others poor wretches are being
+garroted, boiled in oil, broken on the wheel and subjected to many other
+ingenious tortures. At one end is an elaborate joss-house, with a great
+bronze bell near by. In normal conditions this temple is crowded, and
+true believers buy slips of prayers, which they throw into the booths to
+ward off ill luck.</p>
+
+<p>The rush of refugees grew greater as we penetrated toward the heart of
+the city. On the main curio street the huge gilded signs hung as if in
+mockery above shops which had been stripped of all their treasures.
+Occasionally a restaurant remained open and these were crowded with
+chair coolies, who were waiting to be engaged by some merchant eager to
+escape from the city. Gone was all the life and bustle that my
+companions said made this the most remarkable street in Canton. It was
+like walking through a city of the dead, and it bore a striking
+resemblance to San Francisco's business district on the day of the great
+fire. At intervals we passed the yamens of magistrates, but the guards
+and attaches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> were enjoying a vacation, as no court proceedings were
+held. Progress became more and more difficult as the rush of refugees
+increased and returning chair coolies clamored for passageway. The
+latter had taken parties to the river boats and were coming back for
+more passengers. As it became evident that we could not see the normal
+life of the city, my companions finally urged that we return, as they
+feared the gates might be closed against us, so we retraced our way,
+this time taking the main street which led to the great south gate.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the gate we came on the scene of the blowing up of the
+Tartar general. Seven shops on both sides of the street were wrecked by
+the explosion. The heavy fronts were partly intact, but the interiors
+were a mass of brick and charred timbers, for fire followed the
+explosion. The general had waited several months to allow the political
+excitement that followed his appointment to subside. He felt safe in
+entering the city with a strong bodyguard, but not over one hundred
+yards from the gate a bomb was thrown which killed the general
+instantly, mangled a score of his retainers and killed over a dozen
+Chinese bystanders. The revolutionists tried to clear the street so that
+none of their own people should suffer, but they failed because of the
+curiosity of the crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Near by this place is the old Buddhist water clock, which for five
+hundred years has marked the time by the drip of water from a hidden
+spring. The masonry of this water-clock building looks very ancient, and
+the clock is reached by several long flights of granite stairs.</p>
+
+<p>After viewing the clock we reached the wall and passed through the big
+south gates, which are fully six inches thick, of massive iron, studded
+with large <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>nails. Outside on the bund were drawn up several rapid-fire
+guns belonging to Admiral Li, the efficient head of the Chinese navy at
+Canton, who also had a score of trim little gunboats patrolling the
+river. These boats had rapid-fire guns at bow and stern.</p>
+
+<p>So we came back to the Canton hospital, where we had luncheon. After
+this I made my way back to the steamer, to find her crowded with over
+one thousand refugees from the old city, with their belongings. The
+decks and even the dining saloon were choked with these people, and
+during the two hours before the boat sailed at least three hundred more
+passengers were taken on board. We sailed in the late afternoon and were
+followed by four other river steamers, carrying in all over six thousand
+refugees.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Singapore The Meeting Place of Many Races</h3>
+
+<p>Of all the places in the Orient, the most cosmopolitan is Singapore, the
+gateway to the Far East; the one city which everyone encircling the
+globe is forced to visit, at least for a day. Hongkong streets may have
+seemed to present an unparalleled mixture of races; Canton's narrow
+alleys may have appeared strange and exotic; but Singapore surpasses
+Honkong in the number and picturesqueness of the races represented in
+its streets, as it easily surpasses Canton in strange sights and in
+swarming toilers from many lands that fill the boats on its canals and
+the narrow, crooked streets that at night glow with light and resound
+with the clamor of alien tongues.</p>
+
+<p>Singapore is built on an island which adjoins the extreme end of the
+Malay Peninsula. It is about sixty miles from the equator, and it has a
+climate that varies only a few degrees from seventy during the entire
+year. This heat would not be debilitating were it not for the extreme
+humidity of the atmosphere. To a stranger, especially if he comes from
+the Pacific Coast, the place seems like a Turkish bath. The slightest
+physical exertion makes the perspiration stand out in beads on the face.</p>
+
+<p>Singapore has a population of over three hundred thousand people; it has
+a great commercial business, which is growing every year; it already has
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>the largest dry dock in the world. Its bund is not so imposing as that
+of Hongkong, but it has more public squares and its government buildings
+are far more handsome. As Hongkong owes much of its splendid
+architecture and its air of stability to Sir Paul Chator, so Singapore
+owes its spacious avenues, its fine buildings, its many parks, its
+interesting museum and its famous botanical gardens to Sir Stamford
+Raffles, one of the British empire-builders who have left indelibly
+impressed on the Orient their genius for founding cities and
+constructing great public enterprises. Yet, Singapore, with far more
+business than Manila, is destitute of a proper sewer system, and the
+streets in its native quarters reek with foul odors.</p>
+
+<p>The feature of Singapore that first impresses the stranger is the
+variety of races seen in any of the streets, and this continues to
+impress him so long as he remains in the city. My stay in Singapore was
+four days, due to the fact that it was necessary to wait here for the
+departure of the British West India Company's steamer for Rangoon and
+Calcutta. In jinrikishas and pony carts I saw all quarters of the town,
+and my wonder grew every day at the remarkable show of costumes
+presented by the different races. One day, late in the afternoon, I sat
+down on a coping of the wall that surrounds a pretty park on Orchard
+road, and in the space of a half hour watched the moving show that
+passed by. At this hour all Singapore takes its outing to the Botanical
+Gardens, and one may study the people who have leisure and money.</p>
+
+<p>The favorite rig is still the victoria drawn by high-stepping horses,
+with coachman and postilion, but the automobile is evidently making
+rapid strides in popular favor, despite the fact that the heavy, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>humid
+air makes the odor of gasoline cling to the roadway. A high-class Arab,
+with his keen, intellectual face, rides by with a bright Malay driving
+the machine. Then comes a fat and prosperous-looking Parsee in his
+carriage, followed by a rich Chinese merchant arrayed in spotless white,
+seated in a motor car, his family about him, and some relative or
+servant at the wheel. Along moves a rickshaw with an East Indian woman,
+the sun flashing on the heavy gold rings in her ears, while a carriage
+follows with a pretty blonde girl with golden hair, seated beside her
+Chinese ayah, or nurse. A score of young Britons come next in rickshaws,
+some carrying tennis racquets, and others reading books or the afternoon
+paper. The rickshaws here, unlike those of Japan or China, carry two
+people. They are pulled by husky Chinese coolies, who have as remarkable
+development of the leg muscles as their Japanese brothers, with far
+better chests. In fact, the average Chinese rickshaw coolie of Singapore
+is a fine physical type, and he will draw for hours with little show of
+suffering a rickshaw containing two people. The pony cart of Singapore
+is another unique institution. It is a four-wheeled cart, seating four
+people, drawn by a pony no larger than the average Shetland. The driver
+sits on a little box in front, and at the end of the wagon is a basket
+in which rests the pony's allowance of green grass for the day. The pony
+cart is popular with parties of three or four and, as most of
+Singapore's streets are level, the burden on the animal is not severe.</p>
+
+<p>This moving procession of the races goes on until eleven-thirty o'clock,
+the popular dinner hour all along the Chinese coast. It is varied by the
+occasional appearance of a bullock cart, which has probably changed very
+little in hundreds of years. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>bullocks have a pronounced hump at the
+shoulders, and are of the color and size of a Jersey cow. The neckyoke
+is a mere bar of wood fastened to the pole, and the cart is heavy and
+ungainly. Nowhere in Singapore does one find coolies straining at huge
+loads as in China and Japan, as this labor is given over to bullocks.
+Here, however, both men and women carry heavy burdens on their heads,
+while the Chinese use the pole and baskets, so familiar to all
+Californians.</p>
+
+<p>The Malays and East Indians furnish the most picturesque feature of all
+street crowds. The Malays, dark of skin, with keen faces, wear the
+sarong, a skirt of bright-colored silk or cotton wrapped about the loins
+and falling almost to the shoe. The sarong is scant and reminds one
+strongly of the hobble-skirt, as no Malay is able to take a full stride
+in it. The skirt and jacket of the Malay may vary, but the sarong is
+always of the same style, and the brighter the color the more it seems
+to please the wearer. The East Indians are of many kinds. The Sikhs, who
+are the police of Hongkong, here share such duty with Tamils from
+southern India and some Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>No Malay is ever seen in any low, menial employment. The Malay is well
+represented on the electric cars, where he serves usually as conductor
+and sometimes as motorman. He is also an expert boatman and fisherman.
+He is very proud and is said to be extremely loyal to foreigners who
+treat him with justice and consideration. The Malay, however, can not be
+depended on for labor on the rubber or cocoanut plantations, as he will
+not work unless he can make considerable money. Ordinary wages do not
+appeal to a man in a country where eight cents is the cost of
+maintenance on rice and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>fish, with plenty of tea. The Malay is a
+gentleman, even when in reduced circumstances, and he must be treated
+with consideration that would be lost or wasted on the ordinary Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese occupy a peculiar position in Singapore. It is the only
+British crown colony in which the Chinese is accorded any equality with
+white men. Here in the early days the Chinese were welcomed not only for
+their ability to do rough pioneer work, but because of their commercial
+ability. From the outset they have controlled the trade with their
+countrymen in the Malayan States, while at the same time they have
+handled all the produce raised by Chinese. They have never done much in
+the export trade, nor have they proved successful in carrying on the
+steamship business, because they can not be taught the value of keeping
+vessels in fine condition and of catering to the tastes of the foreign
+traveling public. On the other hand, the great Chinese merchants of
+Singapore have amassed large fortunes and have built homes which surpass
+those of rich Europeans. On Orchard road, which leads to the Botanical
+Gardens, are several Chinese residences which excite the traveler's
+wonder, because of the beauty of the buildings and grounds and the
+lavishness of ornament and decorations. These merchants, whose names are
+known throughout the Malay States and as far as Hongkong and Manila,
+represent the Chinese at his best, freed from all restrictions and
+permitted to give his commercial genius full play.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Strange Night Scenes in the City of Singapore</h3>
+
+<p>The Chinese element in Singapore is so overwhelming that it arrests the
+attention of the most careless tourist, but no one appreciates the
+enormous number of the Mongolians in Singapore until he visits the
+Chinese and Malay districts at night. With a friend I started out one
+night about eight o'clock. It was the first night in Singapore that one
+could walk with any comfort. We went down North Bridge road, one of the
+main avenues on which an electric car line runs. After walking a
+half-mile we struck off to the right where the lights were bright. Just
+as soon as we left the main avenue we began to see life as it is in
+Singapore after dark. The first native street was devoted to small
+hawkers, who lined both sides of the narrow thoroughfare. Each had about
+six feet of space, and each had his name and his number as a licensed
+vender. The goods were of every description and of the cheapest quality.
+They had been brought in small boxes, and on these sat the Chinese
+merchant and frequently his wife and children. A flare or two from cheap
+nut oil illuminated the scene.</p>
+
+<p>Passing in front of these stands was a constantly moving crowd of
+Chinese, Malays and East Indians of many races, all chaffering and
+talking at the top of their voices. At frequent intervals were street
+tea counters, where food was sold, evidently at very low <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>prices. Ranged
+along on benches were men eating rice and various stews that were taken
+piping hot from kettles resting on charcoal stoves. One old Chinese
+woman had a very condensed cooking apparatus. Over two small braziers
+she had two copper pots, each divided into four compartments and in each
+of these different food was cooking.</p>
+
+<p>Back of the street peddlers were the regular stores, all of which were
+open and apparently doing a good business. As in Hongkong, the Chinese
+workmen labor until ten or eleven o'clock at night, even carpenters and
+basket-makers working a full force by the light of gas or electricity.
+The recent events in China had their reflex here. All the makers of
+shirts and clothing were feverishly busy cutting up and sewing the new
+flag of the revolution. Long lines of red and blue bunting ran up and
+down these rooms, and each workman was driving his machine like mad,
+turning out a flag every few minutes. The fronts of most of these stores
+were decorated with flags of the revolution.</p>
+
+<p>The most conspicuous places of business on these streets were the large
+restaurants, where hundreds of Chinese were eating their chow at small
+tables. The din was terrific, and the lights flashing on the naked
+yellow skins, wet with perspiration, made a strange spectacle. Next to
+these eating houses in number were handsomely decorated places in which
+Chinese women plied the most ancient trade known to history. Some of
+these women were very comely, but few were finely dressed, as in this
+quarter cheapness seemed to be the rule in everything. Around some of
+these places crowds of Chinese gathered and exchanged comment apparently
+on attractive new arrivals in these resorts of vice. Many of the inmates
+were young girls, fourteen or sixteen years old.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>Less numerous than these houses were the opium dens, scattered
+throughout all these streets. These haunts of the drug that enslaves
+were long and narrow rooms, with a central passage and a long, low
+platform on each side. This platform was made of fine hardwood, and by
+constant use shone like old mahogany. Ranged along on these platforms
+wide enough for two men, facing each other and using a common lamp, were
+scores of opium smokers. As many as fifty men could be accommodated in
+each of these large establishments. The opium was served as a sticky
+mass, and each man rolled some of it on a metal pin and cooked it over
+the lamp. When cooked, the ball of opium was thrust into a small hole in
+the bamboo opium pipe. Then the smoker, lying on his side, drew the
+flame of the lamp against this opium and the smoke came up through the
+bamboo tube of the pipe and was inhaled. One cooking of opium makes
+never more than three whiffs of the pipe, sometimes only two. The effect
+on the novice is very exhilarating, but the seasoned smoker is forced to
+consume more and more of the drug to secure the desired effect. In one
+of these dens we watched a large Chinese prepare his opium. He took only
+two whiffs, but the second one was so deep that the smoke made the tears
+run out of his eyes. His companion was so far under the influence of the
+drug that his eyes were glazed and he was staring at some vision called
+up by the powerful narcotic. One old Chinese, seeing our interest in the
+spectacle, shook his head and said: "Opium very bad for Chinaman; make
+him poor; make him weak." Further along in this quarter we came upon
+several huge Chinese restaurants, ablaze with light and noisy with
+music. We were told that dinners were being given in honor of
+revolutionist victories.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>In all our night ramble through the Chinese and Malay quarters of
+Singapore we saw not a single European, yet we met only courteous
+treatment everywhere, and our curiosity was taken as a compliment.
+Singapore is well policed by various races, among which the Sikhs and
+Bengali predominate. An occasional Malay is met acting as a police
+officer, but it is evident that such work does not appeal to the native
+of the Straits Settlements.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the hotel we crossed a large estuary which is spanned
+by several bridges. Here were hundreds of small boats moored to the
+shore, the homes of thousands of river people. This business of
+transportation on the water is in the hands of the Malays, who are most
+expert boatmen. It is a pleasure to watch one of these men handle a huge
+cargo boat. With his large oar he will scull rapidly, while his
+assistant uses a long pole.</p>
+
+<p>One of the sights of Singapore is the Botanical Gardens, about three and
+one-half miles from town. The route is along Orchard road and Tanglin
+road, two beautiful avenues that are lined with comfortable bungalows of
+Europeans, and magnificent mansions of Chinese millionaires. The gardens
+occupy a commanding position overlooking the surrounding country, and
+they have been laid out with much skill. The drives are bordered with
+ornamental trees from all lands. The most beautiful of all the palms is
+the Traveler's tree from Madagascar. It is a palm the fronds of which
+grow up like a regular fan. At a little distance it looks like a
+peacock's tail spread to the full extent. It is so light, graceful and
+feathery that it satisfies the eye as no other palm does. Of other palms
+there are legion, from the Mountain Cabbage palm of the West Indies to
+endless varieties from Malay, Madagascar and western Africa.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Characteristic Sights in Burma's Largest City</h3>
+
+<p>One of the characteristic sights of Rangoon is that of the big Siamese
+elephants piling teak in the lumber yards along Rangoon river. It is the
+same sight that Kipling pictured in the lines in his perfect ballad,
+<i>Mandalay</i>, which an Englishman who knows his Burma well says is "the
+finest ballad in the world, with all the local color wrong."</p>
+
+<p>These lumber yards are strung along the river, but are easily reached by
+an electric car. Several are conducted by Chinese, but the finest yard
+is in charge of the government. At the first Chinese yard was the
+largest elephant in the city, a huge animal fifty-five years old, with
+great tusks admirably fitted for lifting large logs. A dozen tourists
+were grouped about the yard in the early morning, for these elephants
+are only worked in the morning and evening hours, when it is cool. An
+East Indian coolie was mounted on his back, or rather just back of his
+ears, with his legs dangling loose. With his naked feet he indicated
+whether the elephant was to go to the right or left, and when he wished
+to emphasize an order he hit the beast a blow upon the head with a heavy
+steel rod.</p>
+
+<p>Much of the work which this elephant did was spectacular, as it showed
+the enormous strength of the animal as well as his great intelligence.
+He took up on his tusks a log of teak, the native wood of this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>country,
+as hard as hickory and much heavier, and, with the aid of his trunk,
+stood with it at attention until every camera fiend had taken his
+picture. Then his driver made the huge beast move a large log of teak
+from a muddy hole by sheer force of the head and neck. The animal
+dropped almost to his knees, and then putting forth all his strength he
+actually pushed the log, which weighed about a ton and one-half, through
+the mud up to the gangplank of the saw. Then he piled several huge logs
+one upon the other, to show his skill in this work.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this yard the party walked about a half-mile through trails,
+with marshy land on each side, to the big government timber yard. Here
+were thousands of logs which had been cut far up in the teak forests of
+the interior, dragged through the swamps of the Irrawaddy by elephants,
+then floated down the great river to Rangoon. All the logs in this yard
+were marked with a red cross to signify that they belonged to the
+government. Down by the river shore, where the ground was so soft that
+their feet sank deep into the slimy mud, were five elephants engaged in
+hauling logs up from the river to the dry ground near the shore.</p>
+
+<p>The chief object of interest in Rangoon is the great Shwe Dagon pagoda,
+which dominates the whole city. Its golden summit may be seen for many
+miles gleaming above dull green masses of foliage. This pagoda is the
+center of the Buddhist faith, as it is said to contain veritable relics
+of Gautama as well as of the three Buddhas who came before him.
+Thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Burmah, Siam, Cochin-China,
+Korea, Ceylon and other Oriental countries visit the pagoda every year
+and their offerings at the various shrines amount to millions of
+dollars. The pagoda differs absolutely from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>temples of Japan and
+China in form, material and the arrangement of lesser shrines; but its
+impressiveness is greatly injured by the presence of hundreds of
+hucksters, who sell not only curios and souvenirs of the pagoda, but
+food and drink.</p>
+
+<p>The pagoda, which is about two miles from the business center of
+Rangoon, is built upon a mound. The circumference is thirteen hundred
+and fifty-five feet and the total height from the base is three hundred
+and seventy feet. It is constructed in circular style, its concentric
+rings gradually lessening in size until the top is reached. This is
+surmounted by a gilt iron work or "ti" on which little bells are hung.
+This "ti" was a gift from the late king of Burmah, who spent a quarter
+of a million dollars on its decoration with gold and precious stones.
+The mound on which the pagoda stands is divided into two rectangular
+terraces. The upper terrace, nine hundred feet by six hundred and
+eighty-five, is one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the
+ground. The ascent is by three flights of brick stairs, the fourth
+flight at the back being closed to permit of the building of
+fortifications by which the English may defend the pagoda in any
+emergency. The southern or main entrance is made conspicuous by two
+enormous leogryphs, which are of plastered brick.</p>
+
+<p>Up these steep stairs the visitor climbs, pestered by loathsome beggars
+and importuned on every hand to buy relics, flowers and articles of gold
+and silver. One would fancy he was in a great bazar rather than in the
+entrance hall of the finest monument in the world erected in honor of
+Buddha. The four chapels ranged around the rectangular terrace are
+ornamented by figures of the sitting Buddha. Then one visits a score of
+magnificently decorated shrines, in which are Buddhas in every variety
+of position. In <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>one is the reclining Gautama in alabaster, in whose
+honor the pagoda was built. In others are Gautamas of brass, ivory,
+glass, clay and wood. Before many of these shrines candles are burning
+and devotees are seated or are praying with their faces bowed to the
+stone pavement. On one side of the platform is a row of miniature
+pagodas, all encrusted with decoration of gold and precious stones, the
+gifts of thousands of pious devotees. Among these shrines are many small
+bells which are rung by worshippers when they deposit their offerings,
+and one great bell (the third largest in the world, weighing forty-two
+and one-fourth tons), given by King Tharrawaddy.</p>
+
+<p>The eyes of the visitor are wearied with the splendid decoration of the
+chapels, the gilding, the carving, the inlaid glass work. It seems as
+though there was no end to the rows on rows of Buddhas in every
+conceivable position. Interspersed among them are tall poles from which
+float long streamers of bamboo bearing painted historical pictures,
+including those of the capture of the pagoda by the British. Thousands
+crowd these platforms. Some offer gifts to various shrines, others say
+prayer after prayer, still others strike bells to give warning to evil
+spirits that they have offered up their petitions to Buddha, others hang
+eagerly on the words of fortune tellers. All buy food and drink and the
+whole place suggests in its good cheer a country picnic rather than a
+pilgrimage to the greatest Buddhist shrine in the world.</p>
+
+<p>When one has left the pagoda he bears the memory of magnificent
+decorations, of vast crowds, but of little real reverence. The great
+golden pagoda itself is the dominating feature in every view of Rangoon,
+just as the Washington monument dominates all other structures in
+Washington.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Queen's Road, Hongkong">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate25" id="plate25"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate25.jpg" width="550" height="349" alt="Queen's Road, Hongkong" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXV<br />
+Queen's Road in<br />
+Hongkong. This is One<br />
+of the Most Picturesque<br />
+Streets in the Orient,<br />
+With Large Stores and<br />
+Splendid Gilded Signs on<br />
+Each Side. The Buildings<br />
+Are so Constructed<br />
+That the Sidewalk<br />
+Becomes a Shaded<br />
+Arcade
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Flower Market">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXVI<br />
+Flower Market in a<br />
+Hongkong Street&mdash;One<br />
+of the Prettiest<br />
+Sights in Hongkong, as<br />
+Orchids, Irises, Lilies<br />
+and Other Blossoms Are<br />
+Always on Sale
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate26" id="plate26"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate26.jpg" width="550" height="365" alt="Flower Market" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Coolies">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate27" id="plate27"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate27.jpg" width="550" height="320" alt="Coolies" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXVII<br />
+Coolies Carrying<br />
+Burdens at Hongkong.<br />
+Chinese Coolies Using<br />
+the Bamboo Pole Are<br />
+a Common Sight in<br />
+Hongkong. They Carry<br />
+Several Hundred<br />
+Pounds, Moving at<br />
+a Dog Trot
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Foreign Bund at Hongkong">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXVIII<br />
+The Spacious Foreign<br />
+Bund at Hongkong,<br />
+With the Row of Lofty<br />
+Business Buildings.<br />
+The Ferry Takes One<br />
+to Kowloon, the<br />
+Native City, Opposite<br />
+Hongkong
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate28" id="plate28"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate28.jpg" width="550" height="367" alt="Foreign Bund at Hongkong" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Chinese Junks">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate29" id="plate29"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate29.jpg" width="550" height="382" alt="Chinese Junks" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXIX<br />
+Chinese Junks in<br />
+Hongkong Harbor, These<br />
+Junks, With Their<br />
+Curious Sails of Matting<br />
+and Bamboo Spars,<br />
+Form One of the<br />
+Features of Every<br />
+Chinese Harbour or<br />
+Sea View
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Water-front, Canton">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXX<br />
+View of the Water-front<br />
+at Canton. This General<br />
+View of the Pearl<br />
+River and the Canton<br />
+Bund, or Water-front,<br />
+Shows the Enormous<br />
+Floating Population<br />
+on the River
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate30" id="plate30"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate30.jpg" width="550" height="376" alt="Water-front, Canton" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="New Chinese Bund, Canton">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate31" id="plate31"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate31.jpg" width="550" height="378" alt="New Chinese Bund, Canton" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXXI<br />
+The New Chinese Bund<br />
+at Canton. The Chinese<br />
+Recently Completed<br />
+This Bund.<br />
+It Contrasts Strongly<br />
+With the Ancient<br />
+Walled City, a Stone's<br />
+Throw in the Rear
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Confucian Festival">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXXII<br />
+A Confucian Festival at<br />
+Singapore. This Shows<br />
+the Elaborate Street<br />
+Decorations to<br />
+Commemorate the<br />
+Festival of<br />
+Confucius in the<br />
+Chinese Quarter
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate32" id="plate32"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate32.jpg" width="550" height="377" alt="Confucian Festival" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Main Street in the Native Quarter">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate33" id="plate33"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate33.jpg" width="550" height="394" alt="Main Street in the Native Quarter" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXXIII<br />
+A Main Street in the<br />
+Native Quarter of<br />
+Singapore. The Shops<br />
+Are Small and the<br />
+Shopkeepers Live in<br />
+the Rooms Above. The<br />
+Flags Displayed Are<br />
+Those of the New<br />
+Chinese Republic
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Y.M.C.A.">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXXIV<br />
+The Y. M. C. A.<br />
+Building at Singapore.<br />
+This Fine Structure Has<br />
+Many Counterparts in<br />
+the Chief Oriental<br />
+Cities, Where the<br />
+Association is Doing a<br />
+Great Work
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate34" id="plate34"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate34.jpg" width="550" height="366" alt="Y.M.C.A." /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Shwe Dagon Pagoda">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate35" id="plate35"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate35.jpg" width="396" height="550" alt="Shwe Dagon Pagoda" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XXXV<br />
+The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon.<br />
+The Finest Buddhist Temple in all Indo-China, Containing<br />
+Alleged Relics of Gautama. It is Gilded from Base<br />
+to Summit and May be Seen Forty Miles at Sea
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Entrance, Shwe Dagon Pagoda">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate36" id="plate36"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate36.jpg" width="406" height="550" alt="Entrance, Shwe Dagon Pagoda" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XXXVI<br />
+Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda.<br />
+On Each Side is an Enormous Leogryph, Built of<br />
+Brick and Covered With Plaster. The<br />
+Porch Has a Superbly Carved<br />
+Roof
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Burmese Worshipping">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate37" id="plate37"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate37.jpg" width="550" height="366" alt="Burmese Worshipping" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXXVII<br />
+Burmese<br />
+Worshipping Before<br />
+Shrine in the Pagoda at<br />
+Rangoon. These Figures,<br />
+Mainly Women and<br />
+Children, Show the<br />
+National Dress. Note<br />
+the Richness of<br />
+Decoration of the<br />
+Shrines.
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Riverside, Rangoon">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XXXVIII<br />
+Riverside Scene at<br />
+Rangoon. Here Are the<br />
+Native Cargo Boats<br />
+Which Bring Rice and<br />
+Other Products Down<br />
+the Irrawaddy.<br />
+Rangoon Has a Trade<br />
+Second Only to That<br />
+of Calcutta and<br />
+Bombay
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate38" id="plate38"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate38.jpg" width="550" height="399" alt="Riverside, Rangoon" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Elephant Piling Teak">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate39" id="plate39"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate39.jpg" width="550" height="375" alt="Elephant Piling Teak" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XXXIX<br />
+Trained Elephant Piling<br />
+Teak at Rangoon.<br />
+This Is One of the<br />
+Great Sights of the<br />
+Orient. The Elephants<br />
+Work in the Lumber<br />
+Yards Along the<br />
+Water-front and Lift<br />
+Logs That Weigh<br />
+One and One-Half<br />
+Tons
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Palm Avenue, Rangoon">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate40" id="plate40"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate40.jpg" width="393" height="550" alt="Palm Avenue, Rangoon" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XL<br />
+Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon.<br />
+This Characteristic View is From a Pretty Park in<br />
+Rangoon. It Shows the Summit of the Pagoda<br />
+in the Distance
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p>
+<h2>
+INDIA, THE LAND<br />
+OF TEMPLES, PALACES<br />
+AND MONUMENTS
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Calcutta, The Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities</h3>
+
+
+<p>Calcutta, the great commercial port of northern India and the former
+capital of the Empire, is the most beautiful Oriental city, not even
+excepting Hongkong. Its main claim to this distinction is the possession
+of the famous Maidan or Esplanade, which runs along the Hoogly river for
+nearly two miles and which far surpasses the Luneta of Manila in
+picturesqueness. The Maidan is three-quarters of a mile wide at its
+beginning and it broadens out to one and one-quarter miles in width at
+its lower end. Government House, the residence of the Viceroy, is
+opposite the northern end of the Maidan, while at the southern end is
+Belvedere, the headquarters of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. With
+historic Fort William on one side and most of the large hotels, the big
+clubs and the Imperial Museum on the other, the Maidan is really the
+center of all civic life. At the southeast end is the race course; not
+far away is the fine cathedral. Near by are the beautiful Eden Gardens
+(the gift of the sisters of the great Lord Auckland), which are
+noteworthy for the Burmese pagoda, transported from Prome and set up
+here on the water's edge. It is seldom that a city is laid out on such
+magnificent lines as is Calcutta. It reminds one of Washington in its
+picturesque boulevards and avenues, all finely shaded with noble mango
+trees. And it also has the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>distinction of green turf even in the heat
+of summer, owing to the heavy dews that refresh the grass like showers.</p>
+
+<p>Calcutta is associated in the minds of most readers with the infamous
+Black Hole into which one hundred and forty-six wretched white people
+were crowded on a hot night of June in 1750 and out of which only
+twenty-three emerged alive on the following morning. The Black Hole was
+the regimental jail of old Fort William and its site is now marked by a
+pavement of black marble and a tablet adjoining the fine postoffice
+building, while across the street is an imposing monument to the memory
+of the victims, whose names are all enumerated. The hole was twenty-two
+by fourteen feet, while it was only eighteen feet in height. These
+prisoners who were flung into this little jail were residents of
+Calcutta who fell into the hands of the Nawab of Murshedabad. Calcutta
+is also famous as the birthplace of Thackeray, a bust of whom ornaments
+the art gallery of the Imperial Museum. Scattered about the Maidan are
+statues of a dozen men whose deeds have shed luster on English arms or
+diplomacy.</p>
+
+<p>Calcutta, as the first city of India that I had seen, impressed me very
+strongly, although the native life has been colored somewhat by contact
+with British and other Europeans. Here, for the first time, one sees
+ninety-nine out of one hundred people in the streets wearing turbans.
+Here also the women mingle freely in the streets, wearing long robes
+which they wind dexterously about their bodies, leaving the lower legs
+and the right arm bare. A few cover the face, but the great majority
+leave it exposed. Many are hideously disfigured by large nose rings,
+while others have small rings or jewels set in one nostril. Nearly every
+woman wears bracelets on arms and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>wrists, heavy anklets and, in many
+cases, massive gold or silver rings on the big toes. In some cases what
+look like heavy necklaces are wound several times around the ankles. It
+is the custom of the lower and middle classes not to put their savings
+in a bank, but to melt down the coin and make it into bracelets or other
+ornaments, which are worn by their women. Here in Calcutta also one sees
+for the first time hundreds of men and women wearing the marks of their
+caste on their foreheads, either painted in red or marked in white with
+the ash of cow dung.</p>
+
+<p>Although the main streets of Calcutta are distinctly European, a walk of
+a few blocks in any direction from the main business section will bring
+you into the native or the Chinese quarter, where the streets are
+narrow, the houses low between stories and the shops mere holes in the
+wall, with only a door for ventilation. In one quarter every store is
+kept by a Chinese and here a large amount of manufacturing is done. In
+other quarters natives are carrying on all kinds of manufacture, in the
+same primitive way that they worked two thousand years ago. The
+carpenter uses tools that are very much like those in an American boy's
+box of toy tools; the shoemaker does all the work of turning out a
+finished shoe from the hide of leather on his wall. Outside these stores
+in the street the most common beast of burden is a small bullock of the
+size and color of a Jersey cow; These little animals pull enormous
+loads, and they are so clever that when they see an electric car
+approaching they will start on the run and clear the track.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the houses in the native quarter of Calcutta are built of adobe,
+with earthen tiles, which make them bear a strong resemblance to the
+adobe dwellings of the Spanish-Californians before the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>American
+occupation. In many cases very little straw is used in this adobe, for
+the walls have frequently crumbled away under the heavy rains of winter.
+Other houses are built of brick, faced with plaster, which is either
+painted or whitewashed.</p>
+
+<p>What impresses any visitor is the squalor and the wretchedness of these
+homes of India's poor. The clothing of a whole family is not worth one
+American dollar, while about ten cents in our money will feed a family
+of four. The houses have no furniture, except a bed of the most
+primitive pattern, made of latticed reeds; the smoke from the cooking
+fire goes up through the roof or else finds its way out the open door;
+seldom are there any windows, all the air coming in at the open door;
+the floor of the house is of dirt and on this squat father and mother
+and the children, with the family goat. In the small shops work is
+carried on seven days in the week until nine or ten o'clock at night,
+with an hour for lunch and siesta at midday. The hopelessness of the lot
+of the Hindoo (who is bound by rigid caste rules to follow in the
+footsteps of his father) can never be appreciated until one has seen him
+here in his native land.</p>
+
+<p>For two hours I watched scores of natives taking a wash at the large,
+free bathing ghat near the pontoon bridge. On the river front is a
+restaurant, and back of this steps lead down to a spacious platform on
+the level of the river. A score of men and boys and one woman were
+taking a bath in the dirty water, which was thick with mud washed up by
+passing steamers. A few of these bathers had rented towels from an
+office on the stairs, but the great majority simply rubbed themselves
+with their hands and then dried in the sun. All washed their faces in
+the dirty water and rinsed their mouths with it. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>men took off their
+loin clothes and washed these out, then wrapped them about their bodies
+and came out dripping water. The lone woman was very fat. She waded into
+the water and when she came out her thin robe clung to her massive form
+revealing all its curves. She calmly took a seat on the stairs and
+proceeded to massage her head.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting place near Calcutta is the Royal Botanical Gardens,
+situated on the opposite side of the river and about six miles from
+town. These gardens were laid out in 1786 and they vie with the botanic
+gardens at Singapore in the variety of trees and shrubs from all parts
+of the tropics. Here is the great banyan tree which covers one thousand
+square feet and is one hundred and forty-two years old. At a height of
+five and one-half feet from the ground the circumference of the main
+trunk is fifty-one feet; the height is eighty-five feet, while it has
+five hundred and seventy aerial roots, which have actually taken root in
+the ground. The tree at a little distance looks like a small grove.</p>
+
+<p>The Imperial Museum at Calcutta is well worth a couple of hours, for it
+contains one of the finest collections of antiquities in the Orient. The
+museum is housed in an enormous building facing the Maidan, which has a
+frontage of three hundred feet and a depth of two hundred and seventy
+feet. In the ethnological gallery are arranged figures of all the native
+races of India with their costumes; agricultural implements, fishing and
+hunting appliances, models of Indian village life, specimens of ancient
+and modern weapons and many other exhibits. Another room that will repay
+study is a gallery containing old steel and wood engravings of the great
+characters in the mutiny, with busts of Clive, Havelock, Outram and
+Nicholson, and with a life-size bust of Thackeray.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Bathing and Burning the Dead at Benares</h3>
+
+<p>It is estimated that one million pilgrims visit the sacred city of
+Benares every year, and it is these pilgrims that furnish the largest
+income which the city receives from any source. Here are the most holy
+shrines of Buddhism; here Vishnu and Siva have their strongholds, and
+here must come Hindoos from all parts of India to bathe in the sacred
+waters of the Ganges and to offer up prayers at the many holy shrines in
+the city's temples.</p>
+
+<p>Benares is sacred because here Buddha first made his residence. The
+place that he selected was ancient Sarnath, six miles from Benares,
+which is now a heap of ruins, in which British government experts are
+delving for remains of the great city that was founded six centuries
+before the Christian era. At Sarnath Buddha built a great temple and
+founded a school from which his disciples spread to all parts of India.
+But after 750 A.D. Buddhism disappeared gradually from India, and
+Hindooism took its place. The fine temples that now line the Ganges for
+three miles were built by Maratha princes in the seventeenth century.
+They also built the scores of bathing ghats that now furnish one of the
+most picturesque spectacles that the world affords. A ghat in Hindustani
+is a stone stairway that leads down to the water, and Benares has a
+succession of these magnificent stairways leading down to the Ganges,
+overlooked by palaces of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>many Maharajas and temples built by rulers and
+priests. No sight more splendid could be conceived than that of these
+domes and minarets flashing in the rays of the early morning sun while
+thousands of devout believers crowd the bathing ghats and offer prayers
+to Vishnu, after they have bathed in the waters of the Ganges; and
+mourning relatives burn the bodies of their dead after these have had
+the sacred water poured over their faces.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="benares" id="benares"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/100.jpg" width="410" height="550" alt="Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares.<br />
+This is a View of the Dasaswamedh Ghat, the Most<br />
+Popular Bathing Place in the Sacred City. Note<br />
+the Holy Men Under the Umbrellas, Who<br />
+Take Tribute of All Bathers
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The visitor who wishes to see the pious Hindoos bathe in the Ganges goes
+to the river in the early morning soon after the sun has risen. He
+descends one of the large ghats and takes a boat, in which he may be
+rowed down the river past the bathing ghats and the one ghat where the
+dead are burned. The scene is one that will never be forgotten. Against
+the clear sky is outlined a succession of domes and spires that mark the
+position of a score of sacred shrines, with two slender minarets that
+rise from the mosque built by the great Moslem Emperor, Aurunzeb. The
+sunlight flashes on these domes and spires and it lights up thousands of
+bathing floats and stands that line the muddy banks of the river. The
+floats are dotted with hundreds of bathers and the number of these
+increases every few minutes. They come by hundreds down the great stone
+stairways to their favorite bathing places, where, after a thorough
+bath, they may be shaved or massaged or may listen to the expounding of
+the Hindoo sacred books by a learned Brahmin sitting in the shade of a
+huge umbrella. A characteristic feature of this hillside is the number
+of these large umbrellas, each of which marks the place of a priest or a
+holy man who has done some marvels of penance that give him a strong
+hold on the superstitious natives and induce them to pay him well for
+prayers or a sacred talisman.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>With my boat moored near the bank and directly opposite the Manikarnika
+ghat, the favorite place on the river, I watched the stream of bathers
+for nearly an hour. The fanatical devotion that will induce a reasonable
+human being to bathe in the waters of the Ganges seems incredible to
+anyone from the Western World. The water of the sacred river is here of
+the consistency of pea soup. The city's sewer pipes empty into the
+Ganges just above the bathing ghats, and the current carries this filth
+directly to the place which the Hindoos have selected for their rites.
+The water is not only muddy and unclean, but it offends the nose. Yet
+Hindoos of good family bathe here side by side with the poverty
+stricken. They use the mud of the Ganges in lieu of soap; they scrub
+their bodies thoroughly, and then they actually take this foul-smelling
+water in their mouths and clean their teeth with it. This creed of
+Buddha is a pure democracy, for there is no distinction of class in
+bathing. Women bathe by the side of men, although they remain covered
+with the gauze-like garments that are a sop to modesty.</p>
+
+<p>The Manikarnika ghat is the most picturesque of all these bathing places
+along the Ganges, as the long flight of stone steps is in good
+preservation and the background of temples and palaces satisfies the
+eye. The river front for thirty feet is densely crowded with bathers who
+stand on small floats or go into the shallow water. With a Western crowd
+so dense as this there would be infringments of individual rights that
+would lead to quarrels and fights, but the Hindoo is slow to anger, and,
+like the Japanese, he has great courtesy for his fellows. Hundreds
+bathed at the ghat while I watched them and no trouble ensued. Nothing
+could be more striking, nothing more Oriental than the picture of scores
+of bathers, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>in bright-hued garments, moving up and down these long
+flights of massive steps. In the background were a half-dozen temples,
+the most noteworthy of which is the red-domed temple of the Rajah of
+Amethi, whose beautiful palace overlooks this scene. Near the water is a
+curious leaning temple, whose foundations were evidently unsettled by
+the severe earthquake which destroyed several temples farther down the
+river.</p>
+
+<p>The busiest men on these bathing ghats are the Hindoo priests, who reap
+a harvest from the hundreds of pilgrims who visit the ghats during the
+day. These priests cannot be escaped by the poorest Hindoo. They levy
+toll from every one who descends these long flights of stairs. One
+fellow I watched as he sat under his great umbrella. He had his sacred
+books spread before him, but he was given no leisure for reading them,
+as a constant stream of clients passed before him. Some of these were
+regular daily visitors from Benares, who pay a certain rate every week
+or every month, according to their financial standing. Others were
+pilgrims who, in their enthusiasm over the sacred Ganges (which they had
+traveled hundreds of miles to bathe in), were not careful in regard to
+their fees. Others were mourning relatives who applied for prayers for
+the corpse which they had brought to the waterside, and still others
+demanded hurried prayers for the dying, whose last breath would be drawn
+by the bank of the sacred river. Incidentally the priests sold charms
+and amulets guaranteed to bring good fortune. Most of the payments were
+in copper pice, four of which make one of our cents, but many of these
+priests had great heaps of this coin in front of them, showing that
+though India may be suffering from a bad harvest the faker may always
+feed on the fat of the land.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>The spectacle, however, which stamps Benares upon the memory is the
+burning of the dead at a ghat by the Ganges. This ghat is reserved
+exclusively for the cremation of Hindoo dead. No Mussulman can use it.
+It was about eight o'clock in the morning when my boat reached this
+burning ghat. Already one body had been placed on a funeral pyre of
+wood. The guide said this body was that of a poor man who had no
+relatives or friends, as the place where the relatives sit until the
+cremation is complete was empty. Soon, however, two men came rushing
+down the stone steps with a corpse strapped to a bamboo stretcher. The
+body was that of a woman, dressed in red garments, which signified that
+she was a married woman. Unmarried women are arrayed in yellow and other
+colors, while men must be content with white. The stretcher-bearers
+placed their burden with its feet in the Ganges and then went in search
+of wood which is purchased from a dealer. Soon they had a supply, which
+they piled up in the form of a bier, and on this they placed the woman's
+corpse. Then one of the men, who, the guide said, was the dead woman's
+husband, with tears streaming from his eyes, bore some of the water of
+the Ganges to the bier, exposed the face of the dead and poured the
+sacred water upon her mouth and her eyes. Then while his companion piled
+wood above the body the husband sought the low-caste Hindoos who sell
+fire for burning the body. He soon returned with several large bundles
+of coarse straw, one of which was smoking. Seven times the husband
+passed around the bier with the smoking straw before he applied the
+flame to the wood. The fire licked greedily at the wood, and soon the
+flames had reached the body. Then the husband and his friend repaired to
+a stand near by, from which they watched the cremation.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>Meanwhile two other bodies had been rushed down to the water's edge. One
+was evidently that of a wealthy woman, dressed in yellow silk and borne
+by two richly garbed attendants. The other was that of an old man,
+attended by his son. The latter was very speedy in securing wood and in
+building a funeral pyre. Soon the old man's corpse was stretched on the
+bier and the son was applying the torch. He was a good-looking young
+fellow, dressed in the clean, white garments of mourning and freshly
+shaved for the funeral ceremonies. While he was burning the body of his
+father another corpse of a man was rushed down to the river's edge and
+placed upon a bier. This body was fearfully emaciated, and when the two
+attendants raised it in its white shroud, one arm that hung down limp
+was not larger than that of a healthy five-year-old boy, while the legs
+were mere skin and bones. It was an ugly sight to see the Ganges water
+poured over the face of this corpse, which was set in a ghastly grin
+with wide-open eyes. The man had evidently died while he was being
+hurried to the burning ghat, as the Hindoos believe that it is evil for
+one to die in the house. Hence most of the corpses have staring eyes, as
+they breathed their last on the way to the river.</p>
+
+<p>No solemnity marks this cremation by the river's edge. The relatives who
+bring down the body haggle over the price of the wood and try to cheapen
+the sum demanded by the low-caste man for fire for the burning. The
+greed of the priest who performs the last rite and who prepares the
+relatives for the cremation is an unlovely sight. All about the burning
+ghat where the poor dead are being reduced to ashes hundreds are bathing
+or washing their clothes. The spectacle that so profoundly impresses a
+stranger is to them so common as to excite no interest.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Lucknow and Cawnpore, Cities of The Mutiny</h3>
+
+<p>Lucknow and Cawnpore are the two cities of India that are most closely
+associated in the minds of most readers with the great mutiny. The one
+recalls the most heroic defense in the history of any country; the other
+recalls the most piteous tragedy in the long record of suffering and
+death scored against the Sepoys. The British government in both of these
+cities has raised memorials to the men who gave their lives in defending
+them and, though the art is inferior in both, the story is so full of
+genuine courage, loyalty, devotion and self-sacrifice that it will
+always find eager readers. So the pilgrims to these shrines of the
+mutiny cannot fail to be touched by the relics of the men and women who
+showed heroism of the highest order. When one goes through the rooms in
+the ruined Residency at Lucknow he feels again the thrill with which he
+first read of the splendid defense made by Sir Henry Lawrence and of the
+Scotch girl who declared she heard the pipes of the Campbells a day
+before they actually broke on the ears of the beleaguered garrison. And
+when one stands in front of the site of the old well at Cawnpore, into
+which the bleeding bodies of the butchered women and children of the
+garrison were thrown, the tears come to his eyes over the terrible fate
+of these poor victims of the cruelty of Nana Sahib. The sight of these
+Indian cities also makes one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>appreciate more fully the tremendous odds
+against which this mere handful of English men and women contended.</p>
+
+<p>Lucknow is the fifth city in size in the Indian Empire. It is reached by
+a six hours' ride from Benares which is interesting, as the railroad
+runs through a good farming country, in which many of the original trees
+have been left. Lucknow at the outbreak of the mutiny was fortunate in
+the possession of one of the ablest army commanders in the Indian
+service. Sir Henry Lawrence, when he saw that mutiny was imminent,
+gathered a large supply of stores and ammunition in the Residency at
+Lucknow. When the siege began Lawrence found himself in a well-fortified
+place, with large supplies. About one thousand refugees were in the
+Residency and the safety of these people was due largely to the massive
+walls of the building and to the skill and courage with which the
+defense was handled. In reading the story of this siege of five months,
+from June to November, it seems incredible that a small garrison could
+withstand so constant a bombardment of heavy guns and so harassing a
+fire of small arms; but when you go through the Residency the reason is
+obvious. Here are the ruins of a building erected by an old Arab chief
+during the Mohammedan rule in Lucknow. The walls are from three to five
+feet in thickness, of a kind of flat, red brick like the modern tile.
+When laid up well in good mortar such walls are as solid as though built
+of stone. What added to the safety of the building was the great
+underground apartments, built originally for summer quarters for the old
+Moslem's harem, but used during the siege as a retreat for the women and
+children. So well protected were these rooms that only one shell ever
+penetrated them and this shot did no damage. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>building reveals
+traces of the heavy fire to which it was subjected, but in no case were
+the walls broken down.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the siege of Lucknow has been told by poets and prose
+writers for over a half century, but the theme is still full of
+interest. Tennyson dealt with it in a ballad that is full of fire, each
+verse ending with the spirited refrain:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">And ever upon the topmost roof the banner of England blew.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>All that it is necessary to do here is to refresh the reader's memory
+with the salient events. The besieged were admirably handled by
+competent officers and they beat off repeated attacks by the mutineers
+(who outnumbered them more than one hundred to one). Lawrence was
+fatally wounded on July the second and died two days later. In September
+General Havelock, after desperate fighting, made his way into Lucknow,
+but his force was so small that only fifteen hundred men were added to
+the garrison. It was not until November the seventeenth that the
+garrison was finally relieved by the union of forces under Havelock and
+Outram and Sir Colin Campbell. Never in the history of warfare has a
+garrison had to endure greater hardships than that of Lucknow. Incessant
+attacks by night and day kept the small force worn out by constant guard
+duty and, to add to their miseries, intense heat was made more merciless
+by swarms of flies. When one bears in mind that the Indian summer brings
+heat of from one hundred and ten to one hundred and forty degrees it may
+be seen how great was the courage of the garrison that could fight
+bravely and cheerfully under such heavy odds. The memorial tablets at
+Lucknow, Delhi, Cawnpore and other places bear witness to this heroism
+of the British soldier during the mutiny, but you do not fully
+appreciate this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>splendid courage until you see the country and feel the
+power of its sun.</p>
+
+<p>Cawnpore, which is only three hours' ride from Lucknow, is another city
+of India that recalls the saddest tragedy of the mutiny. Here it was
+that bad judgment of the general in charge led to great suffering and
+the final butchery of all except a few of the residents. Sir Hugh
+Wheeler, a veteran officer, wisely doubted the fidelity of the Sepoys
+and decided to establish a place where he could store supplies and
+assure a safe asylum for the women and children; but, instead of
+selecting the magazine, which was on the river and had strong walls, he
+actually went down two miles in a level plain and threw up earth
+entrenchments. This he did because he said he feared to excite the
+suspicion of the Sepoys and thus incite them to revolt. The result was
+disastrous, for the earth walls that he raised furnished poor protection
+and the place was raked by the native artillery and small arms from
+every point of the compass. A worse place to defend could not have been
+chosen, but the twenty officers and two hundred men held it against a
+horde of mutinous natives for twenty days of blazing heat. The only
+water for the little garrison was obtained under severe fire of the
+enemy from a well sixty feet deep.</p>
+
+<p>Finally, when the supply of provisions was nearly exhausted, General
+Wheeler agreed to surrender to the Nana Sahib, provided the men were
+allowed to carry arms and ammunition and boats were furnished for safe
+conduct down the river. Of course, the Nana accepted these terms, but it
+seems incredible that a veteran army officer should have trusted the
+lives of women and children to Sepoys who were as cruel as our own
+Apaches. The little garrison, with the wounded, the women and the
+children, was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>escorted down to the river and placed on barges. But when
+the order was given to push off, the treacherous Sepoys grounded the
+boats in the mud and the gunners of Nana Sahib opened fire on the
+barges. The grape shot set fire to the matting of the barges and many of
+the wounded were smothered. One boat escaped down the river, but the
+survivors were captured after several days of hardship, the men murdered
+and the women and children brought back to Cawnpore. The men in the
+other boats who survived were shot, but one hundred and twenty-five
+women and children were returned to Cawnpore as prisoners. They spent
+seven anxious days and then when Nana Sahib saw he could not hold
+Cawnpore any longer he ordered the Sepoys to shoot the English women and
+children. To the credit of these mutineers they refused to obey orders
+and fired into the ceiling of the wretched rooms where the prisoners
+were lodged. Then Nana Sahib sent for five butchers and these men, with
+their long knives, murdered the helpless victims of this monster of
+cruelty. On the following morning the bodies of dead and dying were cast
+into the well at Cawnpore. On the site of this well has been raised a
+costly memorial surmounted by a marble angel of the resurrection. The
+design is not impressive, but no one can see it without pity for the
+unfortunates who were delivered into the hands of the most atrocious
+character of modern times. The Memorial Church at Cawnpore, which cost
+one hundred thousand dollars, contains a series of tablets to those who
+fell in the mutiny.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr3" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p>
+<h3>The Taj Mahal, The World's Loveliest Building</h3>
+
+<p>Agra is chiefly noteworthy for the Taj Mahal, which is acknowledged to
+be the most beautiful building in the world; though the city would be
+worthy of a visit because of the many splendid mosques and palaces built
+by the great Mogul emperors and others. In fact, Agra was the capital of
+the Mohammedan empire in north India until Aurungzeb moved it
+permanently to Delhi; hence the city is rich in specimens of the best
+Moslem work in forts, palaces, mosques and tombs.</p>
+
+<p>Agra has about two hundred thousand population. It is on the Jumna river
+and is almost equally distant from Calcutta and Bombay, eight hundred
+and forty-two miles from the former and eight hundred and forty-nine
+miles from the latter. It will impress any traveler by its cleanliness
+when compared with Calcutta, Benares or Lucknow. The land seems to be
+more fertile than that around any of these three cities and the standard
+of living higher. The shops are clean and bright and a specialty is made
+of gold and silver embroidery and imitation of the old Mohammedan inlay
+work in marble. Most of the fine Moslem architecture is found inside the
+ancient fort, which, with its massive wall, is in a good state of
+preservation.</p>
+
+<p>The Taj Mahal may be seen many times without losing any of its charm. It
+is reached by a short <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>drive from the city and its beautiful dome and
+minarets may be seen from many parts of Agra and its suburbs. This tomb,
+built of white marble, was erected by Shah Jehan, the chief builder
+among the Mogul Emperors of India, in memory of his favorite wife,
+Arjmand Banu. She married Shah Jehan in 1615 and died fourteen years
+after, as she was giving birth to her eighth child. Shah Jehan, who had
+already built many fine palaces and mosques, determined to perpetuate
+her memory for all time by erecting the finest tomb in the world. So he
+planned the Taj, which required twenty-two years and twenty million
+dollars to build; but so well was the work done that nearly three
+hundred years have left little trace on its walls or its splendid
+decorations.</p>
+
+<p>This Mogul despot, who knew many women, spent an imperial fortune in
+fashioning this noblest memorial to love ever built by the hand of man.
+Incidentally he probably sacrificed twenty thousand coolies, for he
+built the Taj by forced labor, the same kind that reared the pyramids
+and carved the sphinx. All the material was brought from great
+distances. The white marble came from Jeypore and was hauled in bullock
+carts or carried by elephants; the jasper came from the Punjab, the jade
+from China and the precious stones from many parts of Central Asia, from
+Thibet to Arabia.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor summoned the best architects and workers in precious stones
+of his time and asked them for designs. It is evident that many hands
+united in the plans of the building, but history gives the credit for
+the main design to a Persian. An Italian architect lent aid in the
+ornamentation and three inlaid flowers are shown to-day as specimens of
+his work. The building itself is only a shadow of its former
+magnificence&mdash;for the many alien conquerors <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>of India have despoiled in
+it in succession, taking away the solid silver gates, the diamonds,
+rubies, sapphires and other precious stones from the flower decorations,
+and even the gold and silver from the mosaic work. All the precious
+stones looted by vandal hands have been restored by imitations, which
+closely resemble the priceless originals. Restorations have also been
+made where the marble has been defaced or broken.</p>
+
+<p>The Taj stands in the midst of a great garden, laid out with so much
+skill that from any part of its many beautiful walks fine views may be
+had of the dome and the minarets. This garden is planted to many
+tropical trees and flowering shrubs whose foliage brings out in high
+relief the beauty of the flawless marble tomb. The main gateway of the
+garden, built of red sandstone, would be regarded as a splendid work of
+art were it not for the superior beauty of the tomb itself. The gate is
+inlaid in white marble with inscriptions from the Koran, and it is
+surmounted by twenty little marble cupolas.</p>
+
+<p>Once inside the gate the beauty and the majesty of the Taj strike one
+like a physical blow. Simple as is the design, so perfectly has it been
+wrought out that the building gives the impression of the last word in
+delicate and unique ornamentation. The white marble base on which the
+building rests is three hundred and thirteen feet square and rises
+eighteen feet from the ground. The tomb itself is one hundred and
+eighty-six feet square, with a dome that rises two hundred and twenty
+feet above the base. At each corner of the base is a graceful minaret of
+white marble one hundred and thirty-seven feet high. Although no color
+is used on the exterior, the decoration is so rich as to prevent all
+monotony.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Taj Mahal">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="taj" id="taj"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/114.jpg" width="550" height="316" alt="Taj Mahal" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+Front View of the Taj<br />
+Mahal, Agra. This<br />
+Unusual View<br />
+Was Taken by Mr.<br />
+Isaac O. Upham From<br />
+the Level of the Main<br />
+Approach. It Throws<br />
+Into Strong Relief<br />
+the Two Lines of<br />
+Cypresses and Gives<br />
+a Perfect Reproduction<br />
+of the Taj in the<br />
+Winter
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>In every detail the Taj satisfies the eye, with the single exception of
+the work on the minarets. The squares of marble that cover these
+minarets are laid in dark-colored mortar which brings out strongly each
+stone. It would have lent more softness to these minarets had the
+individual stones not been revealed, an effect that could have been
+secured by using white mortar. When the shades of evening fall these
+minarets are far more beautiful than by day, as they are softened by the
+wiping out of the lines about the stones. Under the strong light of the
+noonday sun the marble that covers the dome shows various shades ranging
+from light gray to pearly white, but by the soft evening light all these
+colors are merged and the dome looks like a huge soap bubble resting
+light as foam on the body of the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>A front photograph of the Taj gives a good idea of its effect. Standing
+at the portal of the main entrance one gets the superb effect of the
+marble pathway that borders the two canals in which the building is
+mirrored. Midway across this pathway is a broad, raised marble platform,
+with a central fountain, from which the best view of the building may be
+secured. The path on each side from this platform to the main stairway
+is bordered by a row of cypress and back of these are great mango trees
+at least twenty feet high. These should be removed and smaller trees
+substituted, as they interfere seriously with a perfect view of the
+tomb.</p>
+
+<p>From this platform the eye rests on the Taj with a sense of perfect
+satisfaction that is given by no other building I have ever seen. The
+very simplicity of the design aids in this effect. It seems well nigh
+impossible that a mere tomb of white marble should convey so vivid an
+impression of completeness and majesty, yet at the same time that every
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>detail should suggest lightness and delicacy. The little cupolas below
+the dome as well as the pinnacles of the minarets add to this effect of
+airy grace.</p>
+
+<p>When one ascends the steps to the main door he begins to perceive the
+secret of this effect on the senses. Everything is planned for harmony
+and proportion. The pointed arch, of which all Moslem architects were
+enamored, is shown in the main doorway and in the principal windows of
+the front. This doorway rises almost to the full height of the tomb and
+on each side are recessed windows, with beautifully pointed tops.</p>
+
+<p>All the angles and spandrels of the building are inlaid with precious
+stones as well as with texts from the Koran. In the center of the
+building is an octagonal chamber, twenty-four feet on each side, with
+various rooms around it devoted to the imperial tombs. A dome,
+fifty-eight feet in diameter, rises to a height of eighty feet, beneath
+which, inclosed by a trellis-work screen of white marble, are the tombs
+of the Favorite of the Palace and of the great Emperor. The Emperor,
+with a touch of the Oriental despot, has made his tomb a little larger
+than that of the woman whom he honored in this unique fashion. The
+delicate tracery in marble, so characteristic of Mogul work of the
+sixteenth century, is seen here at its best, as well as the inlays of
+the lotus and other flowers in sapphire, turquoise and other stones. The
+effect is highly decorative and at the same time chaste and subdued. A
+feature which impresses every visitor is the remarkable trellis work in
+marble. A solid slab of marble, about six feet by four and about two
+inches in thickness, is used as a panel. This is cut out into many
+designs that remind one of fine old lace. These panels abound in every
+important room of the Taj.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>The Taj has suffered little serious damage from the conquerors who
+successively despoiled it of its wealth of precious stones. The places
+of these jewels have been supplied with imitations which are almost as
+effective as the originals. In a few instances the marble has been
+chipped or broken, but, through the generosity of Lord Curzon, these
+blemishes have been removed, and the whole structure exists to-day
+almost as it did three hundred years ago when Akbar's grandson completed
+it and found it good.</p>
+
+<p>The Taj should be seen by day and again at nightfall. In the full glare
+of the brilliant Indian sun the dome and the minarets stand out with
+extraordinary clearness, yet the lightness and buoyancy of the dome is
+not injured by the fierce light. Seen at sundown the Taj is at its best.
+All the lines are softened; the minarets and the perfect dome give an
+appearance of lightness and grace not of this world; they suggest the
+cloud-capped towers and gorgeous palaces of the poet's vision. As the
+afterglow fades, the Taj takes on an air of mystery and aloofness; the
+perfect lines melt into one another and the whole structure is blurred
+as though it were seen in a dream. Then one bids adieu to the world's
+perfect building, thankful that he has been given the opportunity to
+enjoy the greatest marvel of architecture, which leaves on the mind the
+same impression left by splendid music or the notes of a great singer.
+Words are poor to describe things like the Taj, which become our
+cherished possessions and may be recalled to cheer hours of despondency
+or grief.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan Ruins</h3>
+
+
+<p>Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital of India, is an interesting city, not
+only because of its present-day life but because it contains so many
+memorials of the Mohammedan conquest of the country. The ancient Moslem
+emperors were men who did things. Above all else they were builders, who
+constructed tombs, palaces and mosques that have survived for nearly
+four hundred years. They builded for all time, rearing massive walls of
+masonry that the most powerful British guns during the mutiny were
+unable to batter down. They built their own tombs in such enduring
+fashion that we may look upon them to-day as they were when these
+despots completed them. Akbar, Shah Jehan, Humayan and Aurungzeb each
+erected scores of buildings that have survived the ravages of time and
+the more destructive work of greedy mercenaries in time of war. In and
+around Delhi are scores of these tombs in various stages of decay. Those
+which have been cared for are splendid specimens of the best
+architecture of the sixteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>Indian brick is the cheapest building material in the world. The Indian
+brick of to-day looks very much like the cheapest brick used in American
+cities to fill in the inside of walls; but the brick made in the time of
+Shah Jehan and Humayan and used by them was a flat tile brick, hard as
+stone, set in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>mortar that has resisted the elements for over three
+hundred years. When the roofs of these Moslem tombs and palaces fell in,
+then the work of disintegration followed rapidly. The plaster scaled off
+the front and sides, and the rows on rows of brick were exposed; but it
+is astonishing that these massive walls have not crumbled to dust in all
+these years. In most cases the imposing arched doorways of red sandstone
+have survived. These doorways, beautifully arched, may be seen on both
+sides of the road leading out of Delhi to the old city, eleven miles
+distant, which was the capital of the Mogul emperors until Aurungzeb
+moved it to Delhi. In a radius of fifteen miles from Delhi tombs and
+palaces that cost hundreds of millions of rupees were built by these
+Moslem despots and their viceroys. Most of them are now in ruins, but
+from the top of the Kutab Minar one may count a score of tombs with
+their domes and cupolas still intact. Into these tombs was poured much
+of the treasure wrung from the poverty-stricken Hindoo tillers of the
+soil.</p>
+
+<p>Few sights in this world are more impressive than this birdseye view of
+the remains of the Mogul emperors who ruled northern India for over
+three centuries. In one of the poorest and the most densely populated
+countries of the world these despots reared marvels of architecture
+which have amazed modern experts. They accomplished these wonders in
+stone mainly because, with power of life and death, they were able to
+impress thousands of coolies and force them to rear the walls of their
+palaces and tombs. Building materials were very cheap, so that most of
+the treasure expended by these rulers went into the elaborate
+ornamentation of walls and ceilings with precious stones and carved
+ivory and marble. No description that I have ever read gives any
+adequate <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>idea of the number and the massiveness of these remains of
+bygone imperial splendor, and this magnificence is made more impressive
+by contrast with the squalid poverty of the common people&mdash;the tillers of
+the soil, the drawers of water, who live in wretched huts, with earthen
+floors, no windows and no comforts. These dwellings are crowded together
+in small villages; the family cow or goat occupies a part of the
+dwelling, a small fire gives warmth only to one standing directly over
+it, and the smoke pours out the open door or filters through holes in
+the thatched roof.</p>
+
+<p>As the native lived three hundred years ago so does he live to-day. He
+uses kerosene instead of the old nut or fish oil, but that is almost the
+only change. In the cultivation of the soil and in all kinds of
+manufacture the same methods are in use now as when Akbar wrested North
+India from its Hindoo rulers. The same crude bullock carts carry produce
+to Delhi, with wheels that have felloes a foot thick and only four
+spokes. Many of these wheels have no tires. In some cases camels supply
+the place of bullocks as beasts of burden, especially in the dry country
+north of Delhi. The coolie draws water from the wells for irrigation
+just as his ancestors did three centuries ago. He uses bullocks on an
+arastra that turns over a big wheel with a chain of buckets. On small
+farms this work is done by men. All the processes of irrigation are
+ancient and cumbersome and would not be tolerated for a day in any land
+where labor is valuable.</p>
+
+<p>Delhi is very rich in memorials of the Mogul conquerors. Near the Lahore
+gate is the palace, one of the noblest remains of the Mohammedan period.
+A vaulted arcade leads to the outer court, at one end of which is a
+splendid band gallery, with a dado of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>red sandstone, finely carved. On
+the farther side is the Dwan-i-'Am or Hall of Public Audience, with
+noble arches and columns, at the back of which, in a raised recess, the
+emperor sat on his peacock throne, formed of two peacocks, with bodies
+and wings of solid gold inlaid with rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Over
+it was a canopy of gold supported by twelve pillars, all richly
+ornamented. This magnificent work was taken away by Nadir Pasha. The
+palace contains many other beautiful rooms, among which may be mentioned
+the royal apartments, with a marble channel in the floor, through which
+rosewater flowed to the queen's dressing-room and bath.</p>
+
+<p>The most notable mosque in Delhi is the Jama Mashid, built of red
+sandstone and white marble. It has a noble entrance and a great
+quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, with a fountain
+in the center. In a pavilion in one corner are relics of Mohammed, shown
+with great apparent reverence to the skeptical tourist. Near by is the
+Kalar Masjid or Black Mosque, built in the style of the early Arabian
+architecture.</p>
+
+<p>Eleven miles from Delhi are many tombs of the Mogul emperors, including
+the Kutab Minar or great column of red sandstone, with a fine mosque
+near at hand. Kutab was a viceroy when he began this splendid column,
+two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, with a base diameter of
+forty-seven feet three inches. The first three stories are of red
+sandstone and the two upper stories are faced with white marble. The
+summit, which is reached by three hundred and seventy-nine steps, gives
+a superb view of the surrounding country, with its many fine Moslem
+tombs.</p>
+
+<p>On the way to the Kutab Minar a number of fine Mohammedan tombs are
+passed, chief of which is the tomb of Emperor Humayan, one of the
+greatest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> of the Moslem builders. Of all the buildings that I saw in
+India this approaches most closely in beauty the incomparable Taj Mahal.
+Of red sandstone, with white marble in relief, its windows are recessed
+and the lower doors filled in with stone and marble lattice work of
+great beauty. The tomb is an octagon and in the central chamber is the
+great emperor's cenotaph of plain white marble. Not far away are the
+shrines and tombs of many Mohammedan emperors and saints.</p>
+
+<p>Delhi saw some of the fiercest fighting during the mutiny. The
+rebellious natives drove the Europeans out of the city, slaughtering
+those who were unable to escape. Thousands of mutineers also flocked to
+Delhi from Lucknow, Cawnpore and other places. General Bernard, in
+command of the English troops that came from Simla, attacked the
+mutineers on June sixth and gained an important victory, as it gave the
+British possession of "The Ridge," a lofty outcropping of ancient rock,
+which was admirably designed for defense and for operations against the
+city. Troops were posted all along the Ridge and in Hindoo Rao's house,
+a massive building belonging to a loyal native. This building was the
+center of many fierce engagements, but it was not until September that
+enough troops were collected to make it safe to assault Delhi.
+Brigadier-General John Nicholson had arrived from the Punjab and urged
+immediate attack on the city. Nicholson was the greatest man the mutiny
+produced. Tall, magnetic, dominating, he enforced his will upon every
+one. Even Lord Roberts, who was then a young subaltern and not easily
+impressed by rank or achievement, records that he never spoke to
+Nicholson without feeling the man's enormous will power and energy.
+Finally, on September thirteenth, the British<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> guns having made breaches
+in the city walls, two forces (one under Nicholson, the other under
+Colonel Herbert) stormed the place. The Kabul gate was soon taken, but
+the defense of the Lahore gate proved more stubborn. The soldiers
+wavered under the deadly fire, when Nicholson rushed forward to lead
+them. His great height made him a target and he fell, shot through the
+body. A whole week of severe fighting followed before every portion of
+Delhi was captured. Nicholson died three days after the British secured
+complete control of the city. His death was mourned as greatly as the
+death of Sir Henry Lawrence at Lucknow.</p>
+
+<p>The Kashmir, Kabul and Lahore gates at Delhi are interesting because
+they were the scenes of many acts of heroism during the mutiny. On the
+Ridge a massive but ugly stone memorial has been erected to those who
+fell in the mutiny. The position is fine but the monument, like all the
+other memorials of the mutiny, is not impressive because of its poor
+design. Other interesting objects which recall incidents in this great
+struggle against the Sepoys are suitably inscribed.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived</h3>
+
+<p>The ancient city of Bombay, the gateway of India and the largest
+commercial metropolis of the empire, was in festival garb because of the
+visit of the King and Queen of England. Fully four hundred thousand
+people came in from the surrounding country to see their rulers from
+over the sea and to enjoy the novel spectacle of illuminated buildings,
+decorative arches, military processions and fireworks. Hence Bombay was
+seen at its best in its strange mixture of races and costumes. In this
+respect it is more Oriental and more picturesque than Singapore.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing that impresses a stranger is the number, size and beauty
+of the public buildings. The Town Hall looks not unlike many American
+city structures&mdash;as it is classic, with Doric pillars and an imposing
+flight of steps; but nearly all the other buildings are of Indian
+architecture, with cupolas and domes, recessed windows and massive,
+pointed gateways. They are built of a dark stone, and the walls (three
+and four feet in thickness) seem destined to last forever. The rooms are
+from sixteen to twenty feet in height; above the tall doors and windows
+are transoms; the floors are of mosaic or stone; everything about the
+buildings appears designed to endure. The streets are very wide and the
+sidewalks are arranged under colonnades in front of the buildings,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> so
+that one may walk an entire block without coming out into the fierce
+Indian sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>All the main streets converge into the Apollo Bunder, a splendid
+driveway like the Maidan in Calcutta. It sweeps around the sea wall and
+if any breeze is stirring in Bombay one may get it here at nightfall.
+From six o'clock to eight thirty or nine o'clock all Bombay turns out
+for a drive on the Apollo Bunder. The line of fine carriages and motor
+cars is continuous for miles, going out the Esplanade to Queen's road,
+which runs for five miles to Malabar head, the favorite residence place
+of the wealthy foreign colony. What will astonish any one accustomed to
+Calcutta and other East Indian cities is the large representation of
+Parsee families in this evening dress parade. Two-thirds of the finest
+equipages belong to the Parsees, who are very richly dressed in silks
+and adorned with fortunes in diamonds, rubies and other precious stones.
+Here and there may be distinguished rich Hindoos or Mohammedans out for
+an airing. The women of the latter sect are concealed behind the
+carriage covers, but the Hindoo and Parsee women show their faces, their
+jewelry and their beautiful costumes with evident pleasure. Nearly all
+these women wear fortunes in diamonds in their ears or in bracelets on
+their arms. In no dress parade in any other city have I noted so many
+large diamonds, rubies and emeralds as in this procession of carriages
+in Bombay.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Bombay Street">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="bombay" id="bombay"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/126.jpg" width="550" height="423" alt="Bombay Street" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+One of the Main<br />
+Avenues of Bombay.<br />
+This Broad Street<br />
+Leads to the City<br />
+Market. The View<br />
+Shows the Florid<br />
+Architecture of Public<br />
+Buildings and the<br />
+Variety of Native<br />
+Costumes
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Another thing that impresses the stranger in Bombay is the sympathy and
+the good feeling that seems to exist between the leading Europeans of
+the city and the prominent natives. This is in great contrast to the
+exclusiveness that marks the Briton in other East Indian cities. Here
+the President and a majority of the members of the Municipal Council<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>
+are Parsees; while a number of Hindoos and Mohammedans are represented.
+When the King and Queen of England were received, the address of welcome
+was read by the Parsee President of the Council, while a bouquet was
+presented to the Queen by the President's wife, dressed in her graceful
+sari or robe of ecru silk, edged with a black border, heavy with
+ornamental gold work. This mingling of the races in civic life is due to
+the domination of the Parsee element, which came over to Bombay from
+Persia three hundred years ago, when driven from their old homes by
+Moslem intolerance. Here these people, who strongly resemble the Jews in
+their fondness for trade and their skill in finance, have amassed
+imperial fortunes. The richest of these Parsee bankers and merchants,
+Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, left much of his great fortune to charity. He
+founded a university, schools and hospitals and his name figures on a
+dozen fine buildings. Other prominent Parsee families are the Sassoons
+and Jehangirs. Yet, despite their wealth and their association with
+Europeans, the Parsees have kept themselves unspotted from the world.
+They do not recognize any mingling of their blood with the foreigner. A
+Parsee who marries a European woman must accept virtual expatriation,
+while the wife (although she may bear him children) is never allowed any
+of the privileges of a native woman in this life and when she dies her
+body cannot be consigned to the Parsee burial place. She is always an
+alien and nothing that she can do is able to break down this racial wall
+that separates her from her husband's people. The marriage of Parsee
+women to foreigners is practically unknown. The Parsee wears a
+distinctive costume. The men dress in white linen or pongee trousers,
+with coat of dark woolen or alpaca; they like foreign <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>shirts and
+collars, but their headgear is the same as that used by the refugees
+from Persia over three hundred years ago. One cap is of lacquered
+papier-mache in the form of a cow's hoof inverted. Another is a round
+cap of gray cloth, finely made, worn over a skull cap of velvet or
+embroidered cloth, which is worn indoors. The women wear the sari or
+robe, which consists of one piece of silk or brocade, with an
+embroidered band. This garment is draped around the body and brought up
+over the head, covering the right ear. They all wear shoes and
+stockings.</p>
+
+<p>The Parsees are all well educated and most of them possess unusual
+refinement. So strong is the pride of race among them that they do not
+tolerate any mendicancy among their own people. Their charitable
+associations care for the few Parsees who are unable to make a living,
+so that their paupers never make any claim upon the municipal government
+for aid. They also boast that none of their women may be found among the
+denizens of the red-light district. Most of the educated Parsees speak
+English, French and German, besides Gugerati (the native dialect) and
+most of them read and write English, Gugerati and Urdu, which is the
+written form of Hindustani. Yet the Parsees are genuine Orientals. They
+sit on chairs, but most of their houses are scantily furnished. They are
+remarkably fond of sweets, fruits and nuts. They seem insensible to the
+surroundings of their homes, many living in crowded streets and up many
+flights of stairs. In their homes all their treasures are kept in the
+family safe. If you are fortunate enough to be received in one of these
+Parsee homes you will be amazed at the wealth in jewelry and personal
+ornaments which are possessed even by families of modest fortune. A
+Parsee woman of this class will have invested five thousand dollars<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> in
+jewelry, much of which she will wear on festive occasions.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the big shipping and cotton merchants of Bombay are Parsees and
+they also control much of the banking of the city. It was due largely to
+the liberality of the Parsees that the city of Bombay was able to
+present to the King a memorial in gold and silver that cost seventeen
+thousand rupees, or over five thousand five hundred dollars in American
+money. This reception to the King and Queen when they landed at Bombay
+on their way to Delhi Durbar was very typical of the life of the city.
+Remarkable preparations had been made; a series of arches spanned the
+principal streets, all designed in native style. At the end of the
+Apollo Bunder was erected a pretty, white pavilion that looked like a
+miniature Taj, while a splendid avenue, lined with pillars, led up to
+the great amphitheater, in front of which, under an ornate pavilion,
+were the golden thrones of the King and Queen. This amphitheater was
+reserved for all the European and native notables, as well as the
+Maharajahs and chiefs from the neighboring States.</p>
+
+<p>After the reception to the royal party came a parade through the
+principal streets and when this was concluded all restrictions were
+relaxed and the populace and the visitors from surrounding towns gave
+themselves up to an evening of enjoyment. The buildings were
+illuminated, some with white and others with red electric lights, while
+many large structures were lighted by little oil lamps, in a cup or
+glass. The main streets were filled with long lines of carriages,
+crowded with richly dressed natives and Europeans, although the natives
+outnumbered the foreigners by one hundred to one. Never in my life have
+I seen so many valuable jewels as on this night, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>when I roamed about
+the streets for two hours, enjoying this Oriental holiday. At times I
+would stop and sit on one of the stands and watch the crowd flow by in a
+steady stream. Walking by the side of a Parsee millionaire and his
+richly dressed family would pass a Hindoo woman of low caste, one of the
+street sweepers, in dirty rags, but loaded down on ankles and arms by
+heavy silver bangles and painted in the center of the forehead with her
+caste mark. She was followed by a poverty-stricken Mohammedan leading a
+little boy, stark naked, while a girl with brilliant cap held the boy's
+hand. A naked Tamil, with only a dirty loin cloth, brushed elbows with
+three Parsee girls, beautifully dressed. And so this purely democratic
+human tide flowed on for hours, rich and poor showing a childlike
+pleasure in the street decorations and the variegated crowd. And in the
+midst of all this turmoil native parties from out of town squatted on
+the deserted tiers of seats, ate their suppers with relish and then
+calmly composed themselves to sleep, wrapped in their robes, as though
+they were in the privacy of their own homes. It was a spectacle such as
+could be seen only in an Oriental city with a people who live in public
+with the placid unconsciousness of animals.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Religion and Customs of the Bombay Parsees</h3>
+
+<p>The Parsees of Bombay&mdash;a mere handful of exiles among millions of
+aliens&mdash;have so exerted their power as to change the life of a great
+city. Proscribed and persecuted, they have developed so powerfully their
+aptitude for commercial life that they represent the wealth of Bombay.
+Living up to the tenets of their creed, they have given far more
+liberally to charity and education than any other race. Some idea of the
+respect in which the Parsee is held may be gained from the fact that
+customs officers never search the baggage of one of these people; they
+take the Parsee's word that he has no dutiable goods. The commercial
+success and the high level of private life among the Parsees is due
+directly to their religion, which was founded by Zoroaster in ancient
+Persia three thousand years ago. As Max-Muller has well said, if Darius
+had overthrown Alexander of Greece, the modern world would probably have
+inherited the faith of Zoroaster, which does not differ in most of its
+essentials from the creed of Christ.</p>
+
+<p>The popular idea of a Parsee is that he worships the sun. This is a
+misconception, due probably to the fact that the Parsee when saying his
+prayers always faces the sun or, in default of this, prays before a
+sacred fire in his temples; but he does not worship the sun, nor any
+gods or idols. His temples are bare, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>only the sacred fire of sandalwood
+burning in one corner. The Parsee recognizes an overruling god,
+Ahura-Mazda, the creator of the universe; he believes that Nature with
+its remarkable laws could not have come into being without a great first
+cause. But he believes that the universe created by Ahura-Mazda was
+invaded by a spirit of evil, Angra-Mainyush, which invites men to wicked
+deeds, falsehood and ignorance. Over against this evil spirit is the
+good spirit, Spenta-Mainyush, which represents God and stands for truth,
+goodness and knowledge. The incarnation of the evil spirit is known as
+Aherman, who corresponds to the Christian devil.</p>
+
+<p>The whole Parsee creed is summed up in three words, which correspond to
+good thoughts, good words and good deeds. If one carries out in his life
+this creed, then his good thoughts, good words and good deeds will be
+his intercessors on the great bridge that leads the spirit from death to
+the gates of paradise. If his evil deeds and thoughts and words
+overbalance the good, then he goes straight down to the place of
+darkness and torment. If his good and evil deeds and thoughts exactly
+balance, then he passes into a kind of purgatory.</p>
+
+<p>Fire, water and earth are all sacred to the Parsee; but fire represents
+the principle of creation and hence is most sacred. To him fire is the
+most perfect symbol of deity because of its purity, brightness and
+incorruptibility. The sacred fire that burns constantly in the Parsee
+temples is fed with chips of sandalwood. Prayer with the Parsee is
+obligatory, but it need not be said in the fire temple; the Parsee may
+pray to the sun or moon, the mountains or the sea. His prayer is first
+repentance for any evil thoughts or deeds and then for strength to lead
+a life of righteousness, charity and good deeds.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>The most remarkable result of the Parsee religion is seen in the
+education of children. This is made a religious duty, and neglect of it
+entails terrible penalties&mdash;for the parents are responsible for the
+offenses of the badly-educated child, just as they share in the merit
+for good deeds performed by their children. It is the duty of a good
+Parsee not only to educate his own children but to do all in his power
+to help in general education. Hence the large benefactions that rich
+Parsees have made to found institutions for the education of the poor.
+Disobedience of children is one of the worst sins. The Parsees are also
+taught to observe sanitary laws, to bathe frequently, to take all
+measures to prevent the spread of contagion. Cleanliness is one of the
+chief virtues. To keep the earth pure the Parsee is enjoined to
+cultivate it. He is also admonished to drink sparingly of wine and not
+to sell it to any one who uses liquor to excess.</p>
+
+<p>The Parsee creed urges the believer to help the community in which he
+lives and to give freely to charity. Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, the
+richest Parsee Bombay has known, set aside a fund of four million seven
+hundred and forty-three thousand rupees for charity and benevolence
+among all the people of his city, regardless of race or creed. The
+Parsee gives liberally to charity on the occasion of weddings or of
+deaths. The charity includes relieving the poor, helping a man to marry
+and aiding poor children to secure an education. The influence of the
+Parsee religion upon the literature and life of the people is very
+marked. There is no room for atheism, agnosticism or materialism. Faith
+in the existence of God and in the immortality of the soul is the
+corner-stone of the creed, but the Parsee spends no money and no effort
+in proselyting others.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>Marriage is encouraged by the Parsee religion, because it encourages a
+virtuous and religious life. The marriage ceremony is peculiar. It is
+always performed in a large pavilion, whatever the wealth of the couple.
+In the case of the rich many invitations are issued and a fine wedding
+feast is spread. On the day set for the wedding, the bride and groom and
+the invited guests assemble in the pavilion. The bride as well as the
+groom is dressed in white. When the time comes for the ceremony the
+couple sit in chairs facing each other and a sheet is held up between
+them by friends, so that they cannot see each other. Then two priests
+begin intoning the marriage service. After several prayers a cord is
+wound around the two chairs seven times and the chairs are also bound
+together with a strip of cloth. More prayers and exhortations follow,
+both priests showering rice upon the couple. Finally the sheet is
+withdrawn, they and their chairs are placed side by side, each is given
+a cocoanut to hold that is bound to the other by a string, emblematic of
+the plenty that may bless the new home, and they are declared man and
+wife. Then they sign a document certifying that they have been united
+according to the Parsee ritual and witnesses sign their names.</p>
+
+<p>Far stranger than the wedding customs of the Parsees are their burial
+rites. They believe that neither fire, earth nor water must be polluted
+by contact with a dead body, so neither burial nor cremation is
+permitted. Instead, they expose their dead to vultures which strip the
+flesh from the bones within an hour. This occurs in conical places,
+called towers of silence, which are shut off from human gaze. The Bombay
+towers of silence are on Malabar head, a beautiful residence district
+overlooking the city. Here, in a fine garden planted to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>many varieties
+of trees and shrubs, are five circular towers, each about twenty feet
+high, made of brick, covered with plaster.</p>
+
+<p>While you are admiring the flowers and trees a funeral enters the gates.
+The body is carried by four professional bearers and is followed by two
+priests and the relatives and friends. All the mourners are clothed in
+white. They walk two by two, no matter how distant may be the house of
+death, each couple holding a handkerchief as a symbol of their union in
+sorrow. When the procession reaches the top of the hill the mourners
+diverge and take seats in the house of prayer, where the sacred fire is
+burning, or they seat themselves in the beautiful garden for meditation
+and prayer. The priests deliver the body to the two corpse bearers, who
+throw open the great iron door and enter with the body. The floor of the
+tower is of iron grating, arranged in three circles&mdash;the outer for men,
+the next for women and the inner for children. As the bearers lay the
+body down, they strip off the shroud. Then the iron door closes with a
+clang. This is the signal for a score of vultures to swoop down upon the
+body. No human eye can see this spectacle, but the imagination of the
+visitor pictures it in all its horror. Within a few minutes the gorged
+vultures begin flapping their way to the top of the tower, where they
+roost on the outer rim.</p>
+
+<p>The bones of the corpse are allowed to remain for several days exposed
+to the fierce sun. Then they are thrown into a great central well, where
+the climate soon converts them into dust. This is washed by the rains
+into underground wells. Charcoal in these wells serves to filter the
+rain water before it enters the ground. Thus do the Parsees preserve
+even the earth from contamination by the ashes of the dead. No expense
+is spared by the Parsees in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>the construction of these towers of
+silence, which are always placed on the tops of hills. According to the
+testimony of some of the ablest medical men of England and America, who
+have examined these burial grounds, the Parsee method of disposing of
+the dead is the most sanitary that has ever been devised. It avoids even
+the fumes that are given off in cremation of the dead. It is also cheap
+and absolutely democratic, as the bones of the rich and poor mingle at
+last in the well of the tower of silence.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing offensive to European taste in the towers of silence
+except the vultures. These disgusting birds, like the Indian crow, are
+protected because they are admirable scavengers. The Parsees see nothing
+offensive in exposing their dead to these birds nor apparently does it
+shock them that alien hands should bare the bodies of their beloved
+dead; but to a foreigner both these aspects of Parsee burial are
+repellant and no argument has any weight to counteract this sentiment.</p>
+
+<p>Many sensational accounts of these Parsee burial rites have been
+printed. Nearly every writer lays stress on the fact that pieces of the
+dead bodies are dropped by the vultures within the grounds or in the
+streets outside. This is an absurdity, as the vulture never rises on the
+wing with any carrion&mdash;he eats it on the spot and he will not leave
+until he is gorged to repletion. An effort was made several years ago to
+remove these towers of silence on Malabar hill because of complaints
+that fragments of corpses were found in the neighborhood. When two
+competent medical experts investigated the matter they reported that
+there was no foundation for the complaints. So the towers have remained
+and thousands of Parsees have been borne to them for the last rites of
+their creed.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Main Gate of Government House, Calcutta">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate41" id="plate41"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate41.jpg" width="383" height="550" alt="Main Gate of Government House, Calcutta" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XLI<br />
+One of the Main Gates to Government<br />
+House, Calcutta. This Gate is of Beautiful Proportions<br />
+and Has a Fine Lion. Government House is<br />
+Situated in a Fine Park of Six Acres
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Calcutta Street Scene">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XLII<br />
+A Street Scene in<br />
+Calcutta. The New<br />
+Building at the Right<br />
+Has a Staging of Bamboo.<br />
+On the Left is<br />
+the Burka Bazaar, One<br />
+of the Sights of India,<br />
+Each Dealer Having<br />
+a Small Shop of His<br />
+Own. The Goods Are<br />
+Classified As in An<br />
+American Department<br />
+Store
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate42" id="plate42"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate42.jpg" width="550" height="359" alt="Calcutta Street Scene" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Great Burning Ghat at Benares">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate43" id="plate43"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate43.jpg" width="385" height="550" alt="Great Burning Ghat at Benares" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XLIII<br />
+The Great Burning Ghat at Benares.<br />
+Here Are Four Funeral Pyres Arranged for Burning, the<br />
+Heads of the Corpses May Be Detected Among the<br />
+Wood. The Pyre in the Middle Foreground is<br />
+Partly Burned. Relatives Watch the Cremation<br />
+From the Temple Above
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Bathing Ghats at Benares">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XLIV<br />
+View of the Bathing<br />
+Ghats at Benares. Here<br />
+May Be Seen Natives<br />
+Bathing in Mother<br />
+Ganges, While Above<br />
+Are the Line of<br />
+Splendid Palaces and<br />
+Temples Built by the<br />
+Maharaja Princes
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate44" id="plate44"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate44.jpg" width="550" height="405" alt="Bathing Ghats at Benares" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="A Holy Man of Benares">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate45" id="plate45"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate45.jpg" width="550" height="376" alt="A Holy Man of Benares" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XLV<br />
+A Holy Man of<br />
+Benares Under His<br />
+Umbrella. Each of<br />
+the Fakers at Benares<br />
+Has His Own Clientage,<br />
+But No One<br />
+Bathes Without<br />
+Yielding Tribute to<br />
+Some Holy Man
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Residency at Lucknow">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XLVI<br />
+The Residency at<br />
+Lucknow. This, the<br />
+Most Impressive<br />
+Relic of the British<br />
+Mutiny In India,<br />
+Is Now Only a<br />
+Beautiful Ruin, But it<br />
+Recalls the Heroic<br />
+Defense Made By a<br />
+Handful of English<br />
+Against Hundreds<br />
+Of Natives. In Front<br />
+Is a Memorial Erected<br />
+by Lord Northbrook<br />
+to Loyal Native<br />
+Soldiers
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate46" id="plate46"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate46.jpg" width="550" height="374" alt="Residency at Lucknow" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate47" id="plate47"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate47.jpg" width="550" height="405" alt="Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE XLVII<br />
+Tomb of<br />
+Itmad-ul-Daulet<br />
+at Agra. This<br />
+Tomb Was Erected<br />
+in Honor of the<br />
+Prime Minister of the<br />
+Emperor Jahangir. It<br />
+Is of Carved and<br />
+Inlaid Marble and<br />
+Overlooks the Jumna<br />
+River
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE XLVIII<br />
+The Mutiny Memorial<br />
+at Cawnpore. This<br />
+Memorial Was Erected<br />
+Over the Well Into<br />
+Which Were Thrown<br />
+the Bodies of One<br />
+Hundred and Twenty-Five<br />
+English Women and<br />
+Children, Butchered<br />
+By Order of the<br />
+Nana Sahib
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate48" id="plate48"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate48.jpg" width="550" height="403" alt="The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Carving in Jasmine Tower, Agra">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate49" id="plate49"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate49.jpg" width="416" height="550" alt="Carving in Jasmine Tower, Agra" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE XLIX<br />
+Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra.<br />
+This View Gives a Good Idea of the Wonderful Work<br />
+in Marble Carving and the Inlaying of Precious<br />
+Stones, Which Makes This Little Pavilion<br />
+a Rival of the Taj
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Jasmine Tower, Agra">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE L<br />
+The Jasmine Tower In<br />
+Agra Fort. This Is<br />
+a Marble Pavilion, the<br />
+Home of the Chief<br />
+Sultana, Overlooking<br />
+the Jumna River. The<br />
+Lattice Work Decoration<br />
+In Marble Is Remarkably<br />
+Beautiful
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate50" id="plate50"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate50.jpg" width="550" height="324" alt="Jasmine Tower, Agra" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Jain family">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate51" id="plate51"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate51.jpg" width="550" height="324" alt="Jain family" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE LI<br />
+Snap-shot of a Jain<br />
+Family at Agra. Mr.<br />
+Upham's Camera<br />
+Caught This Woman<br />
+as She Peeked From<br />
+Behind the Curtain<br />
+of the Ekka, or<br />
+Native Cart
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Fort at Agra">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE LII<br />
+The Fort at Agra<br />
+Which Encloses Many<br />
+Palaces. This Fort<br />
+Has a Circuit of Over<br />
+a Mile, With Two<br />
+Octagonal Towers<br />
+of Red Sandstone.<br />
+Enclosed are Mosques<br />
+and Palaces Which<br />
+Rival the Taj In<br />
+Beauty of Design and<br />
+Richness of<br />
+Ornamentation
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate52" id="plate52"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate52.jpg" width="550" height="409" alt="Fort at Agra" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Kutab Minar">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate53" id="plate53"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate53.jpg" width="392" height="550" alt="Kutab Minar" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LIII<br />
+Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi.<br />
+The Arch Formed Part of a Mosque built by Kutab, a Viceroy,<br />
+in 1193 A. D. The Pillar Stood in the Mosque and is of<br />
+Wrought Iron, Twenty-three Feet High. The Monument<br />
+is Two Hundred and Thirty-eight Feet High<br />
+With Three Hundred and Seventy-nine Steps
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE LIV<br />
+Shah Jehan's Heaven<br />
+on Earth, Delhi.<br />
+The Diwan-i-Khas, or<br />
+Hall of Private<br />
+Audience, Is One of<br />
+the Most Richly<br />
+Decorated Buildings In<br />
+India. The Ceiling<br />
+Was Originally Silver.<br />
+Over the Two Outer<br />
+Arches Is the Persian<br />
+Inscription:<br />
+"If Heaven can be on<br />
+the face of the earth,<br />
+It is this, oh! it is this,<br />
+oh! it is this"
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate54" id="plate54"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate54.jpg" width="550" height="382" alt="Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Street View in Delhi">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate55" id="plate55"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate55.jpg" width="550" height="389" alt="Street View in Delhi" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE LV<br />
+Street View In Delhi,<br />
+With the Juma<br />
+Mashid. This Shows<br />
+the Variety of Life<br />
+In Delhi Streets. The<br />
+Juma Mashid Is One of<br />
+the Finest of the<br />
+Mohammedan<br />
+Mosques
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Parsee Tower of Silence">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE LVI<br />
+A Parsee Tower of<br />
+Silence at Bombay. This<br />
+Shows One of the<br />
+Unique Burial Places<br />
+at Malabar Head,<br />
+Where Dead Bodies<br />
+Are Exposed. Vultures<br />
+Strip the Flesh From<br />
+the Bones In a<br />
+Few Minutes
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate56" id="plate56"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate56.jpg" width="550" height="346" alt="Parsee Tower of Silence" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p>
+<h2>
+EGYPT, THE HOME<br />
+OF HIEROGLYPHS, TOMBS<br />
+AND MUMMIES
+</h2>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo</h3>
+
+<p>The first impression of Cairo is bewildering. None of the Oriental
+cities east of Port Said is at all like it in appearance or in street
+life. The color, the life, the picturesqueness, the noises, all these
+are distinctive. Kyoto, Manila, Hongkong, Singapore, Rangoon, Calcutta,
+Bombay and Colombo&mdash;each has marked traits that differentiate it from
+all other cities, but several have marked likenesses. Cairo differs from
+all these in having no traits in common with any of them. It stands
+alone as the most kaleidoscopic of cities, the most bizarre in its
+mingling of the Orient and the Occident.</p>
+
+<p>Ismail Pasha, who loved to ape the customs of the foreigner, made a
+deliberate attempt to convert Cairo into a second Paris, by cutting
+great avenues through the narrow, squalid streets of the old city, but
+Ismail simply transformed a certain quarter of the place and spoiled its
+native character. What he could not do, fortunately, was to rob the
+Egyptian of his picturesqueness or make the chief city of Egypt other
+than a great collection of Oriental bazars and outdoor coffee shops, as
+full of the spirit of the East as the camel or the Bedouin of the
+desert.</p>
+
+<p>The ride from Port Said to Cairo on the train, which consumes four
+hours, is interesting mainly as a revelation of what the Nile means to
+these people, who without its life-giving water would be unable to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>grow
+enough to live on. With abundant irrigation this Nile delta is one of
+the garden spots of the earth.</p>
+
+<p>The villages that we pass remind one somewhat of old Indian villages on
+the fringe of the desert in California and Arizona&mdash;the same walls of
+sun-baked adobe; the roofs of any refuse from tree pruning; the goats
+and chickens on terms of intimacy with the single living-room. But the
+people are not of the Western world. Dressed in voluminous black or blue
+cotton robes, which are pulled up over their heads to protect them from
+the keen wind of winter, they belong to the land as absolutely as the
+tawny, dust-colored camel. The dress of the women appears to differ very
+little from that of the men, but always the women gather a loose fold of
+their dress and bring it over the head, thus partially concealing the
+face. Men, women and children, all in bare feet, squat in the sand or
+sit hunched up against the sunny side of their houses. Beyond any other
+Orientals I have seen, these Egyptians have the capacity for unlimited
+loafing under circumstances that would drive an American insane in a few
+hours. Flies swarm over them; passing donkeys or camels powder them with
+dust; the fierce sun beats down on their heads; but all these things
+they accept philosophically as an inevitable part of life, as something
+decreed by fate which it would be useless and senseless to change.</p>
+
+<p>The first walk down the Street of the Camel in Cairo is one not soon
+forgotten. Before you are clear of the hotel steps an Arab in a sweater
+and loose skirt, something like the Malay sarong, rushes up and shouts:
+"The latest New York Herald; just came this morning!" Although you tell
+him "no" and shake your head, he follows you for half a block. Meanwhile
+you are badgered by dealers in scarabs, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>beads, stamps, postal cards,
+silver shawls and various curios, who dog your heels, and, when you
+finally lose your temper, retaliate by shouting: "Yankee!" through their
+noses. These street peddlers are wonderfully keen judges of nationality
+and they manage to make life a burden to the American tourist by their
+unwearied and smiling persistence. This is due in great part to the
+foolish liberality of American travelers, who are inclined to accept the
+first price offered, although with an Egyptian or an Arab this is
+usually twice or three times what he finally agrees to take.</p>
+
+<p>Custom and habit probably blunt one's sensibilities in time, but this
+constant annoyance by peddlers detracts much from the pleasure of any
+stroll through Cairo streets. To the new arrival everything is novel and
+attractive. The main avenues are wide, well paved and lined with
+spacious sidewalks, but here the European touch ends. After passing some
+fine shops, their windows filled with costly goods from all parts of
+Egypt and the Soudan, one comes upon one of the great cafes that form a
+distinctive feature of Cairo street life. Here the sidewalk is half
+filled with small tables, about which are grouped Egyptians and
+foreigners drinking the sweet Turkish coffee that is served here at all
+hours of the day.</p>
+
+<p>Many of these Egyptians are in European dress, their swarthy faces and
+the red fez alone showing their nationality. The young men are
+remarkably handsome, with fine, regular features, large, brilliant black
+eyes and straight, heavy eyebrows that frequently meet over the nose.
+Their faces beam with good nature and they evidently regard the frequent
+enjoyment of coffee and cigarettes as among the real pleasures of life.
+But the older men all show traces of this life of ease and
+self-indulgence. It is seldom <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>that one sees a man beyond fifty with a
+strong face. The Egyptian over forty loses his fine figure, he lays on
+abundant flesh, his jowl is heavy and his whole face suggests satiety
+and the loss of that pleasure in mere existence that makes the youth so
+attractive.</p>
+
+<p>Walking down this main artery of Cairo life one sees on the left a large
+park surrounded by a high iron fence. This is the Esbekiyeh Gardens,
+which cover twenty acres, and are planted to many choice trees and
+shrubs. They contain cafes, a restaurant and a theater, and on several
+evenings in the week military and Egyptian bands alternate in playing
+foreign music. Beyond the gardens is an imposing opera house, with a
+small square in front, ornamented with an impressive equestrian statue
+of old Ibrahim Pasha, one of the few good fighters that Egypt has
+produced. From the opera house radiate many streets, some leading to the
+new Europeanized quarters, with noble residences and great apartment
+houses; others taking one directly to the bazars and narrow streets that
+give a good idea of Cairo as it existed before the foreigner came to
+change its life.</p>
+
+<p>Although the modern tram car clangs its way through these native
+streets, it is about the only foreign touch that can be seen. Everything
+else is distinctively Oriental. It is difficult to give any adequate
+idea of the narrowness of these streets or of the amount of life that is
+crowded into them. As in many cities of India, all the work of the shops
+goes on in plain view from the street. The shops themselves are mere
+cubicles, from eight to ten feet wide and seldom more than from six to
+eight feet deep. In certain streets the makers of shoes and slippers are
+massed in solid rows; then come the workers in brass and metals; then
+the jewelers, and following these may be dealers in shawls and in curios
+of various<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> kinds. The native shopkeeper sits cross-legged amid his
+stock and, although he shows great keenness in getting you to examine
+his wares, he never reveals any haste in closing a bargain.</p>
+
+<p>Shopping in this native quarter and in the great Muski bazar that
+adjoins it is a constant source of amusement to the foreign woman who
+has a fondness for bargaining. These Arabs and Egyptians never expect
+one to give more than half what is demanded, except in the case of a few
+large shops in which the price is marked. If one of the silver shawls
+made at Assiut attracts a lady's attention and the polite shopkeeper
+demands five pounds sterling, she may safely offer him two pounds, and
+then, after haggling for a half hour, she will probably become the
+possessor of the shawl for two pounds ten shillings. Of one thing the
+traveler may be sure: he will never get any article from an Egyptian on
+which the shopkeeper cannot make a small profit.</p>
+
+<p>The Muski bazar is about a mile long and, although many European shops
+line it, the street still retains its Oriental attractiveness. Branching
+off from it are many narrow streets crowded with shops on both sides.
+Here may be seen the real life of Old Cairo, unhampered by any foreign
+innovations. The street is not more than twelve feet wide and above the
+first floor of the houses projecting latticed windows and open balconies
+reduce this width to three or four feet. Looking up one sees only a
+narrow slit of blue sky, against which are outlined several tiers of
+latticed windows. From these the harem women look down upon the street
+life in which they can have no real part. Peeping over the balconies may
+be seen black eyes that gleam above the yashmak or Oriental veil worn by
+the poorer classes. This veil covers the face almost to the eyes and it
+is held in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>place by a curious bit of bamboo that comes down over the
+forehead to the nose. The women of the better class do not wear this
+ugly yashmak, but content themselves with a white silk veil that is
+stretched across the lower part of the face, leaving the eyes and a part
+of the nose uncovered.</p>
+
+<p>No visit to Cairo is complete without a sight of Old Cairo, with its
+bazars. This is a quarter of the city that remains as it was in the days
+of the Caliphs. It is inhabited mainly by Copts and among the mean
+houses, built of sun-dried bricks, may be traced part of the old Roman
+wall that encircled this suburb, then known as Babylon. The houses are
+mainly of two or three stories, but the streets are so narrow that two
+people on opposite sides may easily join hands by leaning out of their
+windows. Many or the antique doors of oak, studded with great
+wrought-iron nails, still remain. Here is the old church of St. Sergius,
+which is said to antedate the Moslem conquest. In the ancient crypt the
+Virgin Mary and the Child are said to have sought shelter after their
+flight into Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>Near by is the island of Roda, which is noteworthy for the legend that
+here the infant Moses was found by Pharaoh's daughter. The visitor
+crosses a narrow arm of the Nile by a crude ferry and then walks through
+a quaint old garden to a wall that overlooks the Nile and the Pyramids.
+This wall marks the spot, according to local tradition, where Moses was
+taken from the bulrushes. The bulrushes are no more because they have
+been dredged out, but the place has the look of extreme age and the
+garden contains many curious trees.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Among the Ruins of Luxor and Karnak</h3>
+
+
+<p>Luxor, the ancient city of Upper Egypt, which may be reached by a night
+train ride from Cairo, is the center of the most interesting ruins on
+the Nile. The city itself has been built around the splendid temple of
+Luxor, founded by Amenophis III, but altered and extensively rebuilt by
+Rameses II. From the Nile the colonnade of this temple is a beautiful
+spectacle, as the huge columns are in perfect preservation. Big tourist
+hotels make up most of the other buildings. The town boasts a good water
+front, which is generally lined in the winter season with tourist
+steamers. The view across the Nile is fine, as it includes the lofty
+Libyan range of mountains, in whose flanks were cut the tombs of the
+Pharaohs. Here, in two or three days, one may study the ruins of Luxor,
+Karnak and Thebes&mdash;names that the historian still conjures with.</p>
+
+<p>All the Egyptian temples were built on one general plan, like the
+mosques of North India, and Luxor does not differ from the others,
+except that it surpasses them all in the beauty of its colonnaded
+pillars. Seven double columns, about fifty-two feet high, with lotus
+capitals, support a massive architrave, while beyond them are double
+columns on three sides of a great court. This temple of Luxor was
+originally built by Amenophis III of the eighteenth dynasty in honor of
+Ammon, the greatest of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>Egyptian gods, his wife and their son, the
+moon-god Khons. The successor of this monarch erased the name of Ammon
+and made other changes, but Seti I restored Ammon's name, and then came
+Rameses II, the builder who never wearied in rearing huge temples and in
+carving colossal figures of himself.</p>
+
+<p>Rameses added a colonnaded court in front of the temple, built an
+enormous pylon, with obelisks and colossal statues that celebrate his
+own greatness, and erased the cartouches of the original builder,
+substituting his own and thus claiming credit for the erection of the
+whole temple. Were the spirit of the great Rameses allowed to return to
+earth and reanimate the mummy that now forms the most interesting
+exhibit in the Cairo Museum, how great would be his humiliation to know
+that his ingenious devices to appropriate the credit of other men's work
+have been exposed? In nearly all the remains of Upper Egypt, Rameses
+figures as the sole builder, but the cunning of modern archaeologists
+has stripped him of this credit and has revealed him as the greatest of
+royal charlatans.</p>
+
+<p>The general plan of the Luxor temple is repeated at Karnak and all other
+places in Egypt. The pylon, two towers of massive masonry, formed the
+entrance to the temple, the door being in the middle. The towers of the
+pylon resemble truncated pyramids and, as they were formed of large
+stones, they frequently survived when all other parts of the temple fell
+into ruins. The surfaces of the pylon afforded space for reliefs and
+inscriptions, telling of the glories of the king who reared the temple.
+In most cases obelisks and colossal statues of the royal builder were
+placed in front of the pylon. From the pylon one enters the great open
+court, with covered colonnades<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> at right and left. This court was the
+gathering place of the people on all big festivals, and in the center
+stood the great altar. Back of this court, on a terrace a few feet
+higher, was the vestibule of the temple upheld by columns, the front row
+of which was balustraded. Behind this was the great hypostyle hall,
+extending the whole width of the building, with five aisles, the two
+outer ones being lower than the others. The roof of the central aisle is
+upheld by papyrus columns with calyx capitals, while that of the other
+aisles is supported by papyrus columns with bud capitals. Behind this
+hall is the inner sanctuary, containing the image of the god in a sacred
+boat. Around the sanctuary were grouped various chambers for the storage
+of the priests' vestments and for the use of watchmen and other
+attendants.</p>
+
+<p>In the Luxor temple the surface of the pylon is devoted to a record of
+the achievements in war of Rameses II, the monarch who finally revised
+the temple and put his seal on it. Behind the pylon is the great court
+of Rameses, entirely surrounded by two rows of seventy-four columns,
+with papyrus bud capitals and smooth shafts. Then comes a colonnade of
+seven double columns, fifty-two feet high, with calyx capitals; a second
+court, that of Amenophis III, with double rows of columns on three
+sides; the vestibule of the temple, two chapels, the birth-room of
+Amenophis and several other chambers.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="karnak" id="karnak"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/146.jpg" width="428" height="550" alt="The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak.<br />
+This Hall is in the Temple of Ammon, and is One<br />
+of the Most Impressive in All Egypt. Originally<br />
+There Were One Hundred and Thirty-four<br />
+Columns, Arranged in Sixteen Rows
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Each monarch who reared a temple to his chosen deity devoted much space
+to statues of himself, with grandiloquent accounts in hieroglyphs of his
+exploits in war and peace and of the many peoples who paid him tribute.
+Rameses appears to have had most of the evil traits of the arbitrary
+despot. With unlimited men and material he was engaged during the
+greater part of his long reign in erecting colossal <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>structures which
+were designed to perpetuate in enduring stone the record of his
+achievements. But Time has dealt Rameses some staggering blows. His tomb
+at Thebes, which was planned to preserve his mummy throughout the ages,
+fell in and is the only one of the tombs of the kings that cannot be
+shown. The mummy of this ablest and proudest of the Pharaohs is now on
+exhibition at the Cairo Museum with a score of others and excites the
+ribald comment of the Cook's tourist, who drops his "h's" and knows
+nothing of Egyptology. Yet the mummy of Rameses is by far the most
+interesting of those shown at the museum because the head and face are
+so essentially modern. The other rulers of Egypt were plainly Orientals,
+but this man, with the high-bridged, sensitive nose, the long upper lip,
+the strong chin and the powerful forehead, might have stepped out of the
+political life of any of the great European nations during the last
+century.</p>
+
+<p>The impressiveness of the temple of Luxor depends mainly upon the rows
+of columns, nearly sixty feet in height, which give one a vivid idea of
+the majesty of Egyptian architecture in its best estate. These columns
+show few traces of the destroying hand of time, although they were
+carved from soft limestone. Probably the escape of this temple from the
+ruin that befell Karnak and Thebes was due mainly to its sheltered
+position and also to the fact that a Coptic church and the houses of
+peasants were built among the columns. The refuse that aided to preserve
+these remains of Ancient Egyptian architecture was fully twenty feet
+deep when the work of excavation was begun. Hence Luxor satisfies the
+eye in the perfect arrangement of the columns and in the massiveness of
+the work. Here also on the pylon and the walls of the court may be seen
+some beautiful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> reliefs and inscriptions which depict scenes in the
+campaigns of Rameses II against the Hittites, sacrificial processions
+and hymns to the gods.</p>
+
+<p>From ancient Luxor to Karnak, a distance of a mile and one-half, the way
+was marked in the time of the Pharaohs by a double row of small
+sphinxes, many of which still remain in a half-ruined condition. This
+avenue leads to the small temple of Khons, the moon-god, made noteworthy
+by a beautiful pylon. This pylon is one hundred and four feet long,
+thirty-three feet wide and sixty feet high and is covered with
+inscriptions and reliefs. This small temple serves as an introduction to
+the great temple of Ammon, the chief glory of Karnak, to which most of
+the Pharaohs contributed. This temple is difficult to describe, as it
+covers several acres and is a mass of gigantic masonry, full of majesty
+even in its ruin. What it was in the days of its builders, with its vast
+courts lined with beautiful designs in brilliant colors, the imagination
+fails to conceive. Its greatest features are the main pylon (three
+hundred and seventy feet wide and one hundred and forty-two and one-half
+feet high), the great hypostyle hall of Seti I and Rameses II, the
+festival temple of Thotmes III and the obelisk of Queen Hatasu. From the
+pylon a superb view may be gained of the ruins of Karnak.</p>
+
+<p>The hypostyle hall is justly ranked among the wonders of the world, as
+it is no less than three hundred and thirty-eight feet in breadth by one
+hundred and seventy feet in depth and it is estimated that the great
+church of Notre Dame in Paris could be set down in this hall. Sixteen
+rows of columns&mdash;one hundred and thirty-four in all&mdash;support the roof.
+Looking down the two central rows of columns toward the sanctuary, one
+gets some idea of the effect of this colossal architecture when the
+pillars were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>all perfect and the fierce sunshine of ancient Egypt
+brought out their barbaric wealth of gold and brilliant colors.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of this immense hall are covered with pictures in relief
+depicting the victories of Seti and Rameses over the Libyans and the
+people of Palestine. These designs represent the two monarchs as
+performing prodigies of valor on the field of battle and then bringing
+the trophies of war as an offering to the gods. The festal hall of
+Thotmes III is made noteworthy by twenty unique columns arranged in two
+rows. The Temple of Karnak was made beautiful by two fine obelisks of
+pink granite from Assuan, erected by Queen Hatasu. One is in fragments,
+but the other rises one hundred and one-half feet from amid a ruined
+colonnade. It is the loftiest obelisk known with the single exception of
+that in front of the Lateran in Rome, which is taller by only three and
+one-half feet. The inscription records that it was made in seven months.</p>
+
+<p>The impression left by the ruins of Karnak is bewildering. The modern
+mind has great difficulty in conceiving how any monarch, no matter how
+great his resources, could spend years in erecting these huge structures
+in honor of his gods. Here are scores of colossal statues of Rameses,
+Seti and Amenophis, each of which required six months to carve from a
+single slab of red or black granite. Here are hundreds of columns of
+from forty to sixty feet high, covered from capital to base with richly
+carved hieroglyphs. Here are splendid halls, larger than anything known
+in our day, which were picture galleries in stone, blazing with gold,
+red, purple and other colors. And here are obelisks that have preserved
+through all these centuries the story of their dedication.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>The mind is staggered by so great a mass of work, representing untold
+misery of thousands of wretched slaves brought from all parts of the
+then known world. These slaves were made to work under the terrible
+Egyptian sun; if they were overcome by the heat and stopped for a
+moment's rest their bare backs felt the cruel lash of the overseer; if
+they fell under the heat and the burden they were dragged out and their
+bodies thrown to the vultures and the jackals. So, while we stand in
+amazement before these relics of the enormous activity of a people who
+have passed away, we cannot fail to note that these huge stones were
+cemented with the blood and tears of the bond slave, and that if they
+could find a voice they would tell of unthinkable atrocities which they
+witnessed in those old days, before brotherly love came into the world.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="hr2" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Tombs of The Kings at Ancient Thebes</h3>
+
+<p>The Greeks and Romans who went up the Nile as far as the "hundred-gated"
+city of Thebes declared that the Tombs of the Kings, cut in the
+limestone sides of the Libyan range of mountains, were among the wonders
+of the world. The tourist of to-day will confirm this early impression,
+for in Egypt nothing gives one a more vivid idea of the enormous pains
+taken by the Pharaohs to preserve their dead from desecration than do
+these tombs. Here for several miles in the flanks of these
+mountains&mdash;sterile, desolate beyond any region that I have ever
+seen&mdash;are scattered the rock-hewn tombs of the monarchs who carried the
+arms of Egypt to all parts of the known world of their day. Like their
+temples, the Egyptians built their tombs after a uniform plan&mdash;the only
+variation was in the arrangement of the minor chambers and in the
+inscriptions which told of the history of the king whose mummy reposed
+in the vault.</p>
+
+<p>Seven miles across the river the Pharaohs chose the site of their tombs.
+Imagination could not conceive a greater abomination of desolation than
+the rocky mountainside in which these tombs are carved; but fortunes
+were lavished on the construction of these resting places of the dead.
+Historians and travelers have told of the great city which grew up about
+the tombs of the Egyptian kings&mdash;the temples, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span>the homes of priests and
+the huge settlements of thousands of workmen who spent years in the
+laborious carving and decoration of these burial places. But to-day
+nothing remains of these cities, and of the temples only a few columns,
+pillars and broken statues bear witness to their former grandeur. Yet
+the tombs have resisted the destroying hand of the centuries, and the
+walls of several of them actually retain the brilliant colors laid on by
+the painters over four thousand years ago. When you go down the
+roughly-hewn steps into the mortuary chambers, carved out of the solid
+rock, it is borne in upon you that here time has stood still; that
+during all the ages that have seen the rise of Christianity and the
+growth of empires greater than Thebes ever dreamed of, the mummies of
+these Pharaohs reposed here undisturbed. Now by the aid of skilfully
+arranged electric lights you may descend into most of these tombs,
+marvel at the beauty of the decorative inscriptions on the walls, gaze
+upon the massive granite sarcophagi in which the mummies were placed,
+and get a genuine taste of the antiquity that you have read about but
+never fully realized before. This is the service of the tombs of the
+kings&mdash;the actual turning back of the centuries so that one feels the
+touch of the ancient days as vividly as he feels the hot, dust-laden,
+oppressive air of the mausoleum.</p>
+
+<p>The excursion from Luxor to the tombs of the kings and the Colossi of
+Memnon, not far away, is a hard day's trip. The tourist crosses the Nile
+in a small boat and takes a donkey or a carriage. The road leads along a
+large canal, passing the remains of the great temple of Seti I at Kurna,
+and thence winds around through two desert valleys into a gorge lined on
+both sides with naked, sun-baked rocks that give back the heat like the
+open doors of a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>furnace. Bare of any scrap of verdure, desolate beyond
+expression, these rocky walls that shut in this gorge form a fitting
+introduction to the tombs of the kings. The road finally turns to the
+left and enters a small valley, encircled by huge rocks, cut by ravines.
+Here one may see in the sides of the mountain wall the first of the
+rock-hewn tombs, which happens to be that of Rameses IV. One enters the
+large gateway and passes down an ancient staircase cut in the solid
+rock, at an angle of forty-five degrees. Three corridors and an
+ante-room, all carved out of rock, lead to the main chamber, which
+contains the mammoth granite sarcophagus of the king (ten feet long,
+eight feet high and seven feet wide), beautifully decorated with
+inscriptions. Four other rooms follow, the walls of each being covered
+with inscriptions. Recesses are found in the main hall for the storage
+of the furniture of the dead and in several of the other rooms.</p>
+
+<p>The theory of the Egyptians in the arrangement of these tombs was that
+the dead king, guided by the great sun-god, voyaged through the
+underworld every night in a boat. Hence he must have careful guidance in
+regard to his route. This was furnished by elaborate extracts from two
+sacred books of the Egyptians. One was entitled <i>The Book of Him Who Is
+in the Underworld</i> and the other was the <i>Book of the Portals</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of these tombs reveal extracts from the sacred books in great
+variety, but all designed to serve as a guide to the dead kings. The
+best tombs are those of Amenophis II, Rameses III, Seti I and Thotmes
+III. They are all of similar design but the tomb of Seti I (discovered
+by the Italian savant, Belzoni) is finer than any of the others. It
+includes fourteen rooms, most of which are richly adorned <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>with
+inscriptions and designs from the sacred books. The sculptures on the
+walls are executed with great skill and the decorations of the ceilings
+show much artistic taste. In the tenth room are many curious
+decorations, the ceiling, which is finely vaulted, being covered with
+astronomical figures and lists of stars and constellations. From this
+room an incline leads to the mummy shaft. The mummy of Seti I is in the
+Cairo Museum, while the fine alabaster sarcophagus is in the Soane
+Museum in London. The tomb of Amenophis II is noteworthy as the only one
+which contains the royal mummy. In a crypt with blue ceiling, spangled
+with yellow stars and with yellow walls to represent papyrus, is the
+great sandstone sarcophagus of the king. Under a strong electric light
+is shown the mummy-shaped coffin with the body of the king, its arms
+crossed and the funeral garlands still resting in the case. The
+effectiveness of this mummy makes one regret that the others have been
+removed to the Cairo Museum, instead of being restored to their original
+places in these tombs. Most of these royal mummies were removed to a
+shaft at Deir-el-Bahri to save them from desecration by the invading
+Persians, but when the mummies were found it would have been wise to
+replace them in these tombs rather than to group them, as was done, in
+the Cairo Museum. One or two mummies in that museum would have been as
+effective as two dozen.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from these tombs is the fine temple of Queen Hatasu at
+Deir-el-Bahri. This queen was the sister and wife of King Thotmes III,
+and for a part of his reign was co-regent. The temple, which was left
+unfinished, was completed by Rameses II. A short ride from this temple
+brings one to the Ramessium, the large temple (which is badly preserved)
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>erected by Rameses II and dedicated to the god Ammon. The pylon is
+ruined, but one can still decipher some of the inscriptions that tell of
+Rameses' campaign against the Hittites. The first court is a mass of
+ruined masonry, but it contains fragments of a colossal statue of
+Rameses, the largest ever found in Egypt. It probably measured
+fifty-seven and one-third feet in height, as the various parts show that
+it was twenty-two and one-half feet from shoulder to shoulder. The
+colossal head of another statue of Rameses was found near by. The great
+hall had many fine columns, of which eighteen are still standing. These
+columns are very impressive and give one some idea of the majesty of the
+temple when it was complete. Not far away are the tombs of the queens,
+including the fine mausoleum of the consort of Rameses II, part of whose
+name was Mi-an-Mut.</p>
+
+<p>A half mile from the Ramessium brings one to the Colossi of Memnon, the
+two huge seated figures of stone, which were long included among the
+seven wonders of the world. These figures were statues of King Amenophis
+III and were placed in front of a great temple that he built at this
+place; but time has dealt hardly with the temple, as scarcely a trace of
+it remains. The figures with the pedestals are about sixty-five feet
+high and, as they are on the level plain near the banks of the Nile,
+they can be seen from a great distance. Though carved from hard
+sandstone these figures have suffered severely from the elements, so
+that the faces bear little trace of human features; still they are
+impressive from their mere size and from the fact that they have come
+down to us across the centuries with so little change.</p>
+
+<p>The southern statue is in the best preservation, but the northern one is
+of greatest interest because for ages it was believed to give forth
+musical notes <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>when the first rays of the rising sun fell on its lips.
+The Greeks called it the Statue of Memnon, and invented the fable that
+Memnon, who was slain at Troy by Achilles, appeared on the Nile as a
+stone image and every morning greeted his mother (Eos) with a song. So
+many good observers vouched for these musical notes at sunrise that the
+phenomenon must be accepted as an historical fact. The Romans invented
+the legend that when these sounds occurred the god was angry. Hence the
+emperor, Septimius Severus, apparently to propitiate the god, made some
+restorations in the upper portion of the statue, whereupon the
+mysterious musical sounds ceased. Some modern experts in physics have
+deduced the theory that this statue, carved from hard, resonant stone,
+really gave forth sounds when warmed up by the early sun after the heavy
+dews of night. Similar sounds have been observed elsewhere, due to the
+splitting off of very small particles of stone by sudden expansion.
+Whatever the cause of these mysterious sounds, the speaking statue has
+served as an inspiration to many poets.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="hr3" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Sailing Down The Nile on a Small Steamer</h3>
+
+
+<p>Few pleasure trips are more enjoyable than a steamer ride down the Nile
+from Luxor to Cairo. My plans did not permit an extensive Nile trip, so
+I went up the Nile by rail and came down by the Amenartas, one of Cook's
+small boats. For one who has the leisure the best scheme is to take one
+of Cook's express boats and make the round trip to Assouan from Cairo.
+The Egypt and the Arabia are two luxurious steamers specially arranged
+for the comfort of tourists.</p>
+
+<p>The Nile at Luxor is about a half-mile wide at extreme low water in
+December, although the marks on the bank show that it spreads over
+several miles of flat land when the heavy rains come in June and July.
+It is as muddy as the Missouri or the San Joaquin, but the natives drink
+this water, refusing to have it filtered. They claim, and probably with
+reason, that this Nile water is very nutritious. The Egyptian fellah or
+peasant seldom enjoys a hot meal. He chews parched Indian corn and sugar
+cane, and eats a curious bread made of coarse flour and water. Despite
+this monotonous diet the native is a model of physical vigor, with teeth
+which are as white and perfect as those of a Pueblo Indian.</p>
+
+<p>All around Luxor are evidences of the tremendous force of the Nile
+waters when in flood. At various headlands near the city the banks of
+the Nile <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>have been stoned up with solid walls, so that these may
+receive the full sweep of the flood waters. The great dam at Assouan,
+perhaps the finest bit of engineering work in the world, holds up the
+main current of the Nile and prevents the destructive floods which in
+the old days frequently swept away all the soil of the fellah's little
+farm. This dam has now been increased twelve feet in height, so that no
+water pours over the top.</p>
+
+<p>The farmers in Egypt irrigate in the same way as the ryots of India.
+They lay off a field into small rectangular patches, with a ridge around
+each to keep the irrigation water in it. These rectangles make the
+fields look like huge checker-boards. Plowing is done exactly as in the
+time of Cleopatra. A forked stick, often not shod with iron, serves as a
+plow, to which are frequently harnessed a camel and a bullock by a
+heavy, unwieldy yoke. When these two unequally yoked animals move across
+the field, agriculture in the Orient is seen at its best. Unlike the
+Japanese, the Egyptian women do not work in the fields. Their labors
+seem to be limited to carrying water in large jars on their heads and to
+washing clothes in the dirty Nile water. The most common sight along the
+river is that of two women, with their single cotton garment gathered up
+above their knees, filling the water jars or rinsing out clothes in
+water that is thick and yellow with dirt.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer Amenartas started down the river at two in the afternoon.
+The current was strong and the little steamer easily made fifteen miles
+an hour. Now began a series of exquisite views of river life, which
+changed every minute and saved the voyage from monotony. The first thing
+that impresses the stranger who is new to Egypt is the number and
+variety of the shadoufs for bringing the Nile water <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>to the fields.
+These consist of three platforms, each equipped with two upright posts
+of date palm trunks, with a crossbar. From this crossbar depends a well
+sweep, with a heavy weight at one end and a tin or wooden bucket at the
+other. One man at the level of the river scoops up a bucket of water and
+lifts it to the height or his head, pouring it into a small basin of
+earth. The second man fills his bucket from this basin and in turn
+delivers it to the third man, who is about six feet above him. The third
+man raises the water to the height of his head and pours it into a ditch
+which carries it upon the land. The heavy weights on the shadouf help to
+raise the water, but the labor of lifting this water all day is
+strenuous. The shadouf men work with only small loin cloths, and
+occasionally one of these fellows in a sheltered hole toils stark naked.</p>
+
+<p>Despite the fact that their work is as heavy as any done in Egypt, they
+receive the wretched pittance of two piasters or ten cents a day, out of
+which they must spend two and one-half cents a day for food. The shadouf
+is as old as history, and the methods in use for raising this Nile water
+are the same to-day that they were in the earliest dawn of recorded
+history.</p>
+
+<p>As in India, there is a great dearth of farmhouses in these rich lands.
+The peasants are herded in squalid villages, the mud huts jammed close
+together, and the whole place overrun with goats, donkeys, pigs,
+chickens and pigeons. The houses are the crudest huts, with no window
+and no roof.</p>
+
+<p>Life in these villages along the Nile is as primitive as it is among the
+Pueblo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico. Although their religion
+admonishes them to wash before prayers, these peasants appear to pay
+little heed to such rites. Men, women<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> and children are extremely dirty,
+and it is unusual to find anyone with good eyes. Inflammation of the
+eyelids is the most common complaint and this disease is aggravated by
+the fact that the natives make no effort to drive away the flies that
+fasten upon the sore eyes of their little children. This is due to the
+common superstition that it brings ill luck to brush off flies. At every
+small station where the steamer stopped to land native passengers and
+freight a score of villagers would be lined up, each afflicted with some
+eye complaint, and all swarming with small black flies.</p>
+
+<p>At only a few towns along the Nile from Luxor to Cairo were there any
+houses which looked like comfortable homes. The great majority of the
+houses were of sun-dried brick, and these were often in a ruinous
+condition. Yet with their framework of graceful date palms, these
+squalid villages would delight the eye of an artist. For nearly the
+whole distance the west side of the Nile is marked off from the desert
+by the high Libyan mountains, gleaming white and yellow in the brilliant
+sunshine. These limestone cliffs were chosen for the tombs of the kings
+at Thebes, and all along the river one could make out with a glass
+frequent tombs carved in the steep sides of these hills. The other side
+of the river was flat, with low ranges of hills. At sunrise and at
+sunset the most exquisite colors transformed the country into a
+veritable fairyland. The sun sank behind bands of purple and amethyst,
+and his last rays brought out in sharp silhouette the statuesque forms
+of women water-carriers and long lines of laden camels moving in ghostly
+silence along the river bank. Very beautiful also were the pictures made
+by the dahabiehs and other native boats, with their big lateen sails and
+with the motley gathering of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>natives in the stern. All these boats have
+enormous rudders which rise high out of the water and add greatly to the
+effectiveness of the picture as seen against the sunset glow.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere along the Nile is wonderfully clear, the sky is as blue
+and lustrous as fine silk, and the wind blows up clouds in fantastic
+shapes, which add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. All day the
+little steamer passes half-ruined villages, embowered in feathery palms,
+with camels in the background and an occasional bullock straining at the
+wheel which lifts the Nile water on the shadouf. All day natives passed
+along the sky line, some on donkeys, others on camels, still others
+driving in front laden animals, whose forms could scarcely be
+distinguished amid the thick clouds of dust raised by their heavy feet.
+The creak of the shadoufs could be heard before we came abreast of the
+tireless workers.</p>
+
+<p>Seen from the steamer the glamour of the Orient was over all this
+poverty-stricken land, but seen near at hand were revealed all the ugly
+features of dirt, disease, hopeless poverty, unending work that yields
+only the coarsest and scantiest food. We passed miles on miles of waving
+fields of sugar cane, with great factories where this cane was worked up
+into sugar. We passed broad fields of cotton, with factories near at
+hand for converting the product into cloth. Principalities of
+wheat&mdash;great seas of emerald green that stood out against a background of
+sandy desert&mdash;lined the banks at frequent intervals. But all these
+evidences of the new wealth that scientific irrigation has brought to
+this ancient valley of the Nile means nothing to the Egyptian peasant.
+These great industries are in the hands of native or foreign
+millionaires, who see to it that the wages of the native workers are
+kept down to the lowest level.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p>
+<h3>Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx</h3>
+
+<p>Wintry winds in Cairo, which raised clouds of dust and sand, prevented
+me from seeing the pyramids until after my return from Luxor. Then one
+still, warm day it was my good fortune to see at their best these oldest
+monuments of man's work on this earth. Yet impressive as are these great
+masses of stone rising from barren wastes of sand, they did not affect
+me so powerfully as the ruins of Karnak and the tombs of the Kings of
+Thebes. Three pyramids were constructed at Gizeh and four other groups
+at Sakkara, the site of the ancient city of Memphis. That these pyramids
+were built for the tombs of kings has now been demonstrated beyond
+question, so that the many elaborate theories of the religious
+significance of these monuments may be dismissed. The ancient city of
+Memphis was for centuries the seat of the government of Egypt, and the
+tombs that may be seen to-day at Sakkara preceded the rock-hewn tombs at
+Thebes in Upper Egypt. The great antiquity of the tombs at Sakkara makes
+these of importance, although much of the work is inferior to that at
+Thebes.</p>
+
+<p>The pictures of the pyramids are misleading. They give the impression
+that these great masses of stone rise near palm groves and that the
+Sphinx is almost as huge as the pyramid of Cheops which overshadows it.
+In reality, the pyramids are set on a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>sandy plateau, about fifteen feet
+high, while the Sphinx is practically buried in a hollow to the west of
+the great pyramid and can only be seen from one direction. When you
+stand in front of the big pyramid you can form no idea of its size, but
+you know from the guide book that it is seven hundred and fifty feet
+long and four hundred and fifty-one feet high. The height of each side
+is five hundred and sixty-eight feet, while the angle of the sides is
+fifty-one degrees fifty minutes. These statistics do not make much
+impression on the mind but, when it is said that this huge pyramid
+actually covers thirteen acres, the mind begins to grasp the stupendous
+size of this great mass of masonry. This pyramid to-day is of dirty
+brown color, but when finished it was covered with blocks of white
+limestone.</p>
+
+<p>These were removed by various builders and have served to erect mosques
+and temples. Had this covering remained intact it would be impossible to
+climb the pyramid of Cheops. From Cairo and the Nile, as well as from
+the desert, the pyramids are an impressive sight. Unique in shape and
+massive as the Libyan hills beyond them, they can never be forgotten,
+for they represent more perfectly than any other remains in Egypt the
+control by the early kings of unlimited labor and materials.</p>
+
+<p>It used to be the fashion to sneer at the stories told by Herodotus, but
+the excavations in Egypt during the last thirty years have demonstrated
+that this old Greek traveler was an accurate observer and that what he
+saw may be accepted as fact. He was the first to give any detailed
+description of the pyramids and of the enormous work of building them.
+Herodotus visited Egypt about 450 B. C., and he related that one hundred
+thousand men were employed for three months at one time in building the
+great pyramid<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> of Cheops. The stone was quarried near the site of the
+citadel in Cairo, and ten years were consumed in constructing a great
+road across the desert to Gizeh by which the stone was transported. The
+remains of this road, formed of massive stone blocks, may now be seen
+near the Sphinx. The construction of the big pyramid alone required
+twenty years. The story of Herodotus that one hundred thousand men were
+once employed on this pyramid is plausible, according to
+Flinders-Petrie, as these months came during the inundation of the Nile,
+when there was no field work to occupy their time.</p>
+
+<p>The ascent of the pyramid is an easy task for any one in good physical
+condition and accustomed to gymnastic work. Two Bedouins assist you from
+the front while an ancient Sheik is supposed to help push you from the
+rear. In my case the Bedouins had a very easy job, while the Sheik
+enjoyed a sinecure. The stones are about a yard high, and the only
+difficulty of the ascent lies in the straddle which must be made to
+cover these stones. The ascent is made on the northeast corner of the
+pyramid, and much help is gained by inequalities in the great slabs of
+limestone which enable one to get a foothold. Two rests were made on the
+upward climb, but we came down without any rest, covering the whole trip
+in about fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the summit is superb. On two sides, the south and west,
+sketches the sandy desert, broken only by the groups of pyramids at
+Abusir, Sakkara and Dashhur, which mark the bounds of the ancient city
+of Memphis.</p>
+
+<p>The average tourist has more curiosity about the Sphinx than about the
+pyramids, and here the reality is not disappointing. An impressive
+figure is this of a recumbent stone lion one hundred and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>eighty-seven
+feet long and sixty-six feet high, with a man's head that is full of
+power and pride. The nose is gone and the face is badly scarred, but
+here is the typical Egyptian face, with the fine setting of the eyes and
+the graceful head.</p>
+
+<p>The journey to the rock tombs of Sakkara and the site of ancient Memphis
+is tedious, as it includes a ride across the sandy desert of eighty
+miles. A stop is made at the old house of Mariette, the famous French
+Egyptologist, who uncovered many of the finest remains in Memphis. Near
+by is the Step pyramid, the tomb of a king of the fifth dynasty and one
+of the oldest monuments in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>Near by are several pyramids and tombs that will repay a visit, as each
+gives some new idea of the extraordinary care taken by the ancient
+Egyptians to preserve their dead and to assure them proper guidance in
+the land beyond the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>In one chapel are exquisitely carved mural reliefs, many of which still
+retain their original colors. In these chambers the hot, dry air is like
+that of the desert. A hundred years seem like a day in this atmosphere,
+where nothing changes with the changing seasons. Under one's feet is the
+soft, dry dust stirred up by the feet of many tourists, but rain and
+sunshine never penetrate this home of the dead, and a century passes
+without leaving a mark on these inscriptions which were chiseled long
+before the children of Israel made their escape from bondage in Egypt.
+It seems incredible that so many momentous things should have occurred
+while in these still, warm tombs day followed day without change.</p>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Typical Street in Old Cairo">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate57" id="plate57"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate57.jpg" width="388" height="550" alt="Typical Street in Old Cairo" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LVII<br />
+A Typical Street in Old Cairo.<br />
+These Buildings Show the Architecture of Cairo,<br />
+With a Mosque on the Left With Dome<br />
+and Minaret
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Arab Cafe">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE LVIII<br />
+An Arab Cafe In One<br />
+of Cairo's Streets.<br />
+The Open Air Cafes,<br />
+Facing the Sidewalk,<br />
+Abound In Cairo.<br />
+The Smokers and<br />
+Coffee-Drinkers Pay<br />
+No Attention to<br />
+Passers-by
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate58" id="plate58"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate58.jpg" width="550" height="417" alt="Arab Cafe" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Women Water Carriers">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate59" id="plate59"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate59.jpg" width="417" height="550" alt="Women Water Carriers" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LIX<br />
+Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume.<br />
+One of These Women is Uncovered, While the<br />
+Other Wears the Yashmak or Face Mask.<br />
+They Carry Large Water Jars on<br />
+Their Heads
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Rameseon at Karnak">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate60" id="plate60"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate60.jpg" width="375" height="550" alt="Rameseon at Karnak" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LX<br />
+The Rameseon at Karnak.<br />
+Six Colossal Statues of Rameses II of Which Three<br />
+Are in Fair Preservation
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Avenue of Sphinxes">
+<tr><td class="tdc"><a name="plate61" id="plate61"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate61.jpg" width="550" height="415" alt="Avenue of Sphinxes" /></td>
+<td class="tdcapright">
+PLATE LXI<br />
+The Avenue of<br />
+Sphinxes at Karnak.<br />
+The Road From Luxor<br />
+to Karnak Was Lined<br />
+With Recumbent Rams,<br />
+Called Krio-Sphinxes,<br />
+Many of Which Still<br />
+Remain
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Arab Village">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapleft">
+PLATE LXII<br />
+An Arab Village on the<br />
+Nile. This Is a<br />
+Typical Village, the<br />
+Houses of Sun-dried Brick,<br />
+like the California<br />
+Adobe, and the<br />
+Whole Shaded<br />
+By Palms
+</td>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate62" id="plate62"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate62.jpg" width="550" height="418" alt="Arab Village" /></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Colossi of Memnon">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate63" id="plate63"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate63.jpg" width="409" height="550" alt="Colossi of Memnon" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LXIII<br />
+The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes.<br />
+These Gigantic Figures on the West Bank of the<br />
+Nile May Be Seen for Many Miles. They are<br />
+Sixty-five Feet High, and Stood Originally<br />
+in Front of a Temple
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Great Sphinx">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc"><a name="plate64" id="plate64"></a><img class="imgborder" src="images/plate64.jpg" width="427" height="550" alt="Great Sphinx" /></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdcapcen">
+PLATE LXIV<br />
+The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple<br />
+Underneath. This is the Best View of the Face,<br />
+Which Has a Certain Majesty. The Lion's Figure<br />
+is Sixty-six Feet High and One Hundred<br />
+and Eighty-seven Feet Long
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>APPENDIX</h2>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p>
+<h2><span class="smcap">Hints for Travelers<br />
+<small>Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and Money</small></span></h2>
+
+
+<p class="p3">For a round-the-world trip the best plan is to buy a Cook's ticket for
+six hundred and thirty-nine dollars and ten cents. This provides
+transportation from any place in the United States around the world to
+the starting point. The advantage of a Cook's ticket over the tickets of
+other companies is that this firm has the best organized force, with
+large offices in the big cities and with banks as agencies in hundreds
+of places where you may cash its money orders. This is a great
+convenience as it saves the risk of carrying considerable sums of money
+in lands where thievery is a fine art. Cook's agents may be found on
+arrival by boat or train in all the principal cities of a world-tour.
+These men invariably speak English well, and thus they are a god-send
+when the tourist knows nothing of the language or the customs of a
+strange country. At the offices of Cook and Son in all the large
+Oriental cities one may get accurate information about boats and trains
+and may purchase tickets for side excursions. Some of the Oriental
+offices I found careless in the handling of mail because of the
+employment of native clerks, but this was not general. Cook will furnish
+guides for the leading Oriental tours and in India and Egypt these are
+absolutely necessary, as without them life is made a burden by the
+demands of carriage drivers, hotel servants and beggars. Cook will
+furnish good guides for Japan, but it is unsafe to select natives unless
+you have a guarantee that they know the places usually visited and that
+they speak intelligible English. The pronunciation of Japanese differs
+so vitally from that of English that many Japanese who understand and
+write English well make a hopeless jumble of words when they attempt to
+speak it. Their failure to open their mouths or to give emphasis to
+words renders it extremely difficult to understand them. Good foreign
+hotels may be found in all the Japanese cities and even those managed by
+Japanese are conducted in European style. It is a pity that the hotels
+are not modeled on the Japanese style, like the Kanaya Hotel at Nikko,
+where the furniture and the decorations of the rooms are essentially
+Japanese and very artistic. The average charge for room and board in
+Japanese hotels of the first class is four dollars, but some of the more
+pretentious places demand from five to six dollars a day.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>The cost of travel in India is not heavy because of the moderate scale
+of prices. Hotels usually charge ten rupees a day for board and lodging
+or about three dollars a day. Carriage hire is cheap, especially if you
+have a party of four to fill one carriage. A Victoria, holding four
+people, may be had morning and afternoon for twenty rupees, or an
+average of about one dollar and seventy-five cents a day each. Railway
+travel is absurdly cheap. Our party traveled second-class from Calcutta
+to Delhi, thence to Bombay, Madras and Tuticorin, a distance of about
+thirty-five hundred miles&mdash;farther than from New York to San
+Francisco&mdash;for one hundred and forty rupees or about forty-five dollars
+in American money. The first-class fare was nearly twice this amount,
+but no additional comfort would have been secured. We made the trip at
+low cost because a bargain was always made with hotelkeepers and
+carriage drivers. Always make a definite bargain or you will be
+overcharged. A native guide is necessary not only to show you the places
+of interest but to arrange for carriages and to pay tips to servants.
+Secure a Mohammedan guide and you may rest content that you will not be
+cheated. His antipathy to the Hindoo will prevent any collusion with
+servants. A good guide may be had for two rupees a day or about
+sixty-five cents, and he will board himself.</p>
+
+<p>Murray's Guide books for Japan, China, the Straits Settlements and India
+are the most useful. These give the best routes and describe all the
+principal objects of interest. Without such a guide-book, one is
+helpless, as the professional guides frequently omit important things
+which should be seen. It is needless to look for conscientiousness or
+honesty in the Orient. You will not find them.</p>
+
+<p>To avoid trouble when hiring carriage or jinrikisha, make a definite
+bargain by the hour or by the trip. This you may do through the hotel
+porter. Then, on your return, if the driver or the rickshaw-man demands
+more, refer the matter to the porter, and refuse to pay more than your
+bargain. If you do not take these precautions you will be involved in
+constant trouble and will be persistently charged twice what you should
+pay. Even with these precautions, you cannot escape trouble in
+Singapore, which is cursed with the greediest carriage drivers in the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>Many travelers purchase Cook's hotel coupons which provide for lodging
+and meals at certain hotels in every large city of the Orient. My
+experience is that it is a mistake to buy these coupons, as all the
+hotel managers speak English or have hall porters who understand the
+language. You gain little by the arrangement, and you lose the choice of
+good rooms, as hotel managers are not partial to tourists who carry
+coupons, since the profit on these is small.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>In Egypt, Cook's tours, which are arranged to suit all tastes, are the
+most convenient. The best plan is to go up the Nile by train and to come
+down by boat. Do not neglect the ride down the river. It consumes more
+time but it is the only way in which you can get an idea of the charm of
+the scenery, the primitive life of the people, and the beauty of sunrise
+and sunset over the desert.</p>
+
+<p>Above all things, arrange your itinerary carefully before you start.
+Here is where Cook's agent can help you materially, but you must not
+rely upon his advice in regard to steamship lines. He will recommend the
+P. &amp; O. boats, as they are British, but practically every tourist who
+has made the trip will say that the North German Lloyd steamers give the
+best service. Engage your state-room several months in advance and pay a
+deposit, so as to get a receipt for the best berth in a certain room.
+Unless you do this, you will have trouble and will probably be forced to
+sleep in an inside room on hot tropical nights. Get a room on star-board
+or port-side, according to the prevailing wind. To be on the windward
+side means comfort and coolness at night. As soon as possible after
+boarding a vessel see the bath steward and select an hour for your
+morning bath. Should you neglect this, you will be forced to rise very
+early or to bathe at night. If you wish certain table companions see the
+head steward promptly. If you travel on a P. &amp; O. boat, engage an
+electric fan at the Company's office, as there is a rule that you can't
+hire a fan after you are on board. The North German Lloyd furnishes
+fans, which are a necessity in the tropics.</p>
+
+<p>There is a regular tariff for tips on most of the Oriental steamship
+lines, graded according to the length of the voyage. You can always
+ascertain what to give to your waiter, room steward, bath steward, boot
+black and deck steward. These tips are always given on the last day of
+the voyage. American tourists are criminally lavish in giving tips, with
+the result that one who adheres to the rules of old travelers, is apt to
+be regarded as niggardly. It is to be noted that the richest travelers
+always conform to the regular schedule of tips.</p>
+
+<p>In all parts of the Orient it is unsafe to drink the water of the
+country. If you do not relish bottled waters, demand tea; at any rate
+make sure that the water you drink has been boiled. I found hot tea an
+excellent drink even in the tropics and I was never troubled with the
+complaints that follow drinking unboiled water. It is well to make
+liberal use of the curries and rice which are excellent everywhere.
+These, with fish, eggs and fruit, formed the staple of my diet. Never
+eat melons nor salads made of green vegetables; the native methods of
+fertilizing the soil are fatal to the wholesomeness of such things.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span></p>
+<h2><span class="smcap">Bibliography<br />
+<small>Books Which Help One to Understand the Orient and Its People</small></span></h2>
+
+
+<p class="p3">In this bibliography no attempt has been made to cover the field of
+books about the leading countries of the Orient. The aim has been to
+mention the books which the tourist will find most helpful. Guide books
+are indispensable, but they give the imagination no stimulus. It is a
+positive help to read one or two good descriptive accounts of any
+country before visiting it; in this way one gets an idea of comparative
+values. In these notes I have mentioned only the books that are familiar
+to me and which I have found suggestive.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>JAPAN</big></p>
+
+<p>Of all foreigners who have written about Japan, Lafcadio Hearn gives one
+the best idea of the Japanese character and of the literature that is
+its expression. Hearn married a Japanese lady, became Professor of
+English Literature at the Imperial University of Tokio, renounced his
+American citizenship, and professed belief in Buddhism. He never
+mastered the Japanese language but he surpassed every other foreign
+student in his ability to make real the singular faith of the Japanese
+in the presence of good and evil spirits and the national worship of
+beauty in nature and art. Hearn's father was Greek and his mother Irish.
+In mind he was a strange mixture of a Florentine of the Renaissance and
+a pagan of the age of Pericles. In <i>The West Indies</i> he has given the
+best estimate of the influence of the tropics on the white man, and in
+<i>Japan: An Interpretation</i>, <i>In Ghostly Japan</i>, <i>Exotics and
+Retrospections</i>, and others, he has recorded in exquisite literary style
+his conception of Japanese character, myths and folk-legends. His work
+in this department is so fine that no one else ranks with him. He seems
+to have been able to put himself in the place of the cultivated Japanese
+and to interpret the curious national beliefs in good and evil spirits
+and ghosts. He has also made more real than any other foreign writer the
+peculiar position of the Japanese wife. Hearn was a conservative,
+despite his lawless life, and he looked with regret upon the
+transformation of old Japan, wrought by the new desire to Europeanize
+the country. He paints with great art the idyllic life of the old
+Samauri and the loyalty of the retainers to their chief.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>Sir Edwin Arnold, who in his old age married a Japanese lady, has given
+excellent pictures of life in Japan in <i>Seas and Lands</i> and <i>Japonica</i>.
+<i>Religions of Japan</i> by W. E. Griffis gives a good idea of the various
+creeds. Mr. Griffis in <i>The Mikado's Empire</i> also furnishes a good
+description of Japan and the Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>In <i>Fifty Tears of New Japan</i>, Count Okuma has compiled a work that
+gives a complete survey of Japanese progress during the last half
+century. Among the contributors are many of the leading statesmen and
+publicists of Japan.</p>
+
+<p>Of fiction, the scene of which is laid in Japan, one of the most famous
+stories is <i>Madame Chrysantheme</i> by Pierre Loti, a cynical sketch of the
+Japanese geisha, or professional entertainer. Another good story which
+lays bare the ugly fate that often befalls the geisha, is <i>The Lady and
+Sada San</i> by Frances Little, the author of that popular book, <i>The Lady
+of the Decoration</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Other books that will be found valuable are Norman, <i>The New Japan</i>;
+Chamberlain, <i>Things Japanese</i>; Treves, <i>The Other Side of the Lantern</i>;
+Murray, <i>Handbook of Japan</i>; Clement, <i>Handbook of Modern Japan</i>;
+D'Autremer, <i>The Japanese Empire</i>; Hartshorne, <i>Japan and Her People</i>;
+Fraser, <i>A Diplomatist's Wife In Japan</i>; Lloyd, <i>Everyday Japan</i>;
+Scidmore, <i>Jinrikisha Days In Japan</i>; Knox, <i>Japanese Life In Town and
+Country</i>; Singleton, <i>Japan, As Described By Great Writers</i>; Inouye,
+<i>Home Life In Tokio</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>MANILA</big></p>
+
+<p>The acqusition of the Philippine Islands by the United States has led to
+a great increase of the literature on the islands, especially in regard
+to educational and industrial progress. Among the old books that have
+good sketches of Manila are <i>A Visit to the Philippine Islands</i> by Sir
+John Browning.</p>
+
+<p>For sketches of the city since the American occupation see Worcester,
+<i>The Philippine Islands and Their People</i>; Landor, <i>The Gems of the
+East</i>; Dennis, <i>An Observer in the Philippines</i>; Potter, <i>The East
+To-day and Tomorrow</i>; Moses, <i>Unofficial Letters of An Official's Wife</i>;
+Hamm, <i>Manila and the Philippines</i>; Younghusband, <i>The Philippines and
+Round About</i>; Stevens, <i>Yesterdays in the Philippines</i>; Arnold, The
+Philippines, <i>the Land of Palm and Pine</i>; and LeRoy, <i>Philippine Life in
+Town and Country</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>HONGKONG</big></p>
+
+<p>Good descriptive sketches of Hongkong may be found in Norman, <i>The
+Peoples and Politics of the Far East</i>; Des Veux, <i>A Handbook of
+Hongkong</i>; Colquhoun, <i>China in Transformation</i>; Penfield, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span><i>East of
+Suez</i>; Treves, <i>The Other Side of the Lantern</i>; Ball, <i>Things Chinese</i>;
+Thomson, <i>The Changing Chinese</i>; Singleton, <i>China As Described by Great
+Writers</i>; and Liddell, China, <i>Its Marvel and Mystery</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>SINGAPORE</big></p>
+
+<p>Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, was one of the British
+Empire builders who was very shabbily treated by the English government.
+Unaided, he prevented the Dutch from obtaining exclusive control over
+all the waters about Singapore and he was also instrumental in retaining
+Malacca, after the East India Company had decided to abandon it. He was
+appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Java after the English wrested the
+island from the Dutch in 1810. His ambition was to make Java "the center
+of an Eastern Insular Empire," but this project was thwarted by the
+restoration of Java to Holland. The Raffles Museum in Singapore, one of
+the most interesting in the Orient, was his gift.</p>
+
+<p>Sketches of Singapore may be found in Sir Frank Swettenham's <i>British
+Malaya</i>, <i>Malay Sketches</i> and <i>The Real Malay</i>; Wright and Reed, <i>The
+Malay Peninsula</i>; Belfield, <i>Handbook of the Federated Malay States</i>;
+Harrison, <i>Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay States</i>; Ireland,
+<i>The Far Eastern Tropics</i>; Boulger, <i>Life of Sir Stamford Raffles</i>;
+Buckley, <i>Records of Singapore</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>RANGOON</big></p>
+
+<p>There is a large literature on Burma, which seems to have appealed to
+British travelers. Among the books that have chapters devoted to Rangoon
+are Cuming, <i>In the Shadow of the Pagoda</i>; Bird, <i>Wanderings in Burma</i>;
+Hart, <i>Picturesque Burma</i>; Kelly, <i>The Silken East</i>; MacMahon, <i>Far
+Cathay and Farther India</i>; Vincent, <i>The Land of the White Elephant</i>;
+Nisbet, <i>Burma Under British Rule and Before</i>; Hall, <i>The Soul of a
+People</i> and <i>A People at School</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>INDIA</big></p>
+
+<p>The literature about India is very extensive, so that only a few of the
+best books may be mentioned here. To the tourist the one indispensable
+book is Murray's <i>Handbook for Travelers in India, Ceylon and Burma</i>,
+which is well provided with maps and plans of cities. For general
+description, among the best works are Malcolm, <i>Indian Pictures and
+Problems</i>; Scidmore, <i>Winter India</i>; Forrest, <i>Cities of India</i>;
+Kipling, <i>From Sea to Sea</i>; Stevens, <i>In India</i>; Arnold, <i>India
+Revisited</i>; Low, <i>A Vision of India</i> (describing the journey of the
+Prince of Wales in 1905-6); Caine, <i>Picturesque India</i>; <i>Things Seen in
+India</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>For the history of India, some of the best books are Lane-Poole,
+<i>Medi&aelig;val India</i> and <i>The Mogul Emperors</i>; Fanshawe, <i>Delhi, Past and
+Present</i>; McCrindle, <i>Ancient India</i>; Rhys-Davids, <i>British India</i>;
+Roberts, <i>Forty-one Tears in India</i>; Holmes, <i>History of the Indian
+Mutiny</i>; Innes, <i>The Sepoy Revolt</i>; Curzon, <i>Russia in Central Asia</i>;
+Colquhoun, <i>Russia Against India</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the religions of India: Rhys-Davids, <i>Buddhism</i>; Warren, <i>Buddhism in
+Translations</i>; Clarke, <i>Ten Great Religions</i>; Hopkins, <i>Religions of
+India</i>; Arnold, <i>The Light of Asia</i>.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2"><big>EGYPT</big></p>
+
+<p>Egypt has changed so much during the last twenty years that books
+written before that time are practically obsolete. The dahabiyeh is no
+longer used for Nile travel, except by tourists of means and large
+leisure, since the tourist steamers make the trip up and down the Nile
+in one quarter the time consumed by the old sailing vessels. Cairo has
+been transformed into a European city and even Luxor is modernized, with
+its immense hotels and its big foreign winter colony.</p>
+
+<p>B&aelig;deker's Egypt is the best guide book, but be sure that you get the
+latest edition, as the work is revised every two or three years. The
+introductory essays in this volume on Egyptian history, religion, art
+and Egyptology are well worth careful reading. The descriptions of the
+ruins and the significance of many of the hieroglyphs are helpful. Of
+general descriptive works on Egypt, some of the best are Penfield,
+<i>Present Day Egypt</i> (1899); Jeremiah Lynch, <i>Egyptian Sketches</i>, a book
+by a San Franciscan which gives a series of readable pictures of Cairo
+and the voyage up the Nile; Holland, <i>Things Seen in Egypt</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Of Egypt, before it was transformed by the British, standard works are
+Lane, <i>Cairo Fifty Tears Ago</i>; Lady Duff-Gordon, <i>Letters From Egypt</i>
+(covering the period from 1862 to 1869). Good historical works are
+Lane-Poole, <i>Egypt, and the Story of Cairo</i>; Ebers, <i>Egypt, Descriptive,
+Historical, and Picturesque</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Of the administration of England in Egypt, the best book is Lord
+Cromer's <i>Modern Egypt</i>. Other works are Milner, <i>England in Egypt</i>;
+Colvin, <i>The Making of Modern Egypt</i>. The story of Gordon's death at
+Khartoum is well told in Stevens, <i>With Kitchener to Khartoum</i> and
+Churchill, <i>The River War</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Several valuable works on Egyptian archeology have been written by
+Maspero and Flinders-Petrie. Maspero's <i>Art in Egypt</i>, which is lavishly
+illustrated, will be valuable as a guide book. Flinders-Petrie's
+<i>Egyptian Decorative Art</i> is worth reading.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p>
+<h2><span class="smcap">Index</span></h2>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="index">Agra, East Indian city of interesting features, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_111">[111]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Taj Mahal, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_112">[112-116]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Arjmand, favorite wife of Shah Jehan, for whom the Taj was built, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_112">[112]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Benares, sacred city of the Hindoos, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_100">[100-105]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">bathing ghats along the Ganges, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_100">[100-102]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">toll levied by priests on all bathers, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_103">[103]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">burning the dead by the river banks, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_104">[104-105]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">funeral ceremonies, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_105">[105]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Bombay, gateway of India, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_123">[123-134]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">beauty of public buildings, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_123">[123-124]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Apollo Bunder, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_124">[124]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">importance of the Parsees in city life, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_124">[124-1126]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">reception to King George V, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_127">[127]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">holiday street scenes, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_128">[128]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">religion and customs of the Parsees, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_129">[129-130]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">wedding ceremonies, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_132">[132]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">"Towers of Silence" where dead are exposed to vultures, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_133">[133-134]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Buddhism, temples at Nikko, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_17">[17]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">greatest temple, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_90">[90]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">first residence of Buddha at Sarnath, near Benares, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_100">[100]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Cairo, the capital of Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_137">[137-142]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">much Europeanized since Ismail's time, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_138">[138-139]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Street of the Camel, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_138">[138-140]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Esbekiyeh Gardens, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_140">[140]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">shopping in the great Muski bazar, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_141">[141]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Island of Roda, where Moses was found, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_142">[142]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">scenes in the old native city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_142">[142]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Calcutta, greatest commercial port of India, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95-99]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">former capital, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Maidan or Esplanade, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95-96]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Eden Gardens, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">scene of the Black Hole, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_96">[96]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">caste marks, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_97">[97]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">scenes in bathing ghats on the Hoogly, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_98">[98]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">native quarter, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_98">[98-99]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">botanical gardens with great banyan tree, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_99">[99]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Imperial Museum, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_99">[99]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Canton, the great business center of China, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_72">[72-79]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">exodus of people during revolution, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_73">[73]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">boat city on the Pearl river, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_73">[73-74]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">"hot-foot" boats, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_75">[75]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">inside the ancient walls, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_76">[76-77]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">deserted stores on main street, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_76">[76]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Buddhist Temple of Horrors, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_77">[77]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">great rush of refugees, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_77">[77-78]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">scene of the assassination of Tartar general, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_78">[78]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">old Buddhist water clock, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_78">[78]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Cawnpore, scene of the worst massacre in the Sepoy mutiny, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_109">[109-110]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">fatal mistake of General Wheeler, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_109">[109]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">treachery of Nana Sahib, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_110">[110]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">butchery of women and children, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_110">[110]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Chator, Sir Paul, who made Hongkong a great city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_81">[81]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Delhi, ancient Mogul capital of India, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_117">[117-122]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">tombs of Moslem emperors, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_117">[117-118]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">squalor of common people, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_119">[119]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Mogul palaces and mosques, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_119">[119-120]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Kutab Minar, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_120">[120-121]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">memorials of the mutiny, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_121">[121-122]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">fighting at Kabul gate, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_122">[122]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Egypt, the land of tombs, pyramids and mummies, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_137">[137-164]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">railroad ride from Port Said, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_138">[138]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">features of the country, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_138">[138-139]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Cairo and its picturesque life, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_138">[138-142]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>Luxor and Karnak ruins of finest temples of ancient Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_143">[143-149]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Thebes, tomb city of the Egyptian Kings, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_150">[150-155]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">sailing down the Nile, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_156">[156-160]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Pyramids and the Sphinx, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_161">[161-164]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Havelock, English General who fought his way into Lucknow and helped defend the city against hordes of mutineers, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_108">[108]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hideyoshi, Napoleon of Japan, his memory revered, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_19">[19]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">his castle, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_29">[29]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Hongkong, greatest British port in the Orient, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_65">[65-71]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its fine public buildings and spacious water-front, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_66">[66]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">splendid shops on Queen's road, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_67">[67]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">picturesque street crowds, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_68">[68]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">mixture of races, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_68">[68]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">night scenes in native quarter, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_69">[69]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">cable railway to the peak, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_70">[70]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">costly residences on mountain side, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_70">[70]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Kowloon City, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_71">[71]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">India, the most interesting country of the Orient, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95-104]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Calcutta, most beautiful of Indian cities, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_95">[95-99]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_100">[100-105]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Lucknow and Cawnpore, cities of the mutiny, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_106">[106-110]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Agra and the Taj Mahal, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_111">[111-116]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital and now the British capital, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_117">[117-122]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Bombay, the European gateway of India, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_123">[123-134]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Parsees and their curious customs, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_129">[129-134]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Japan, Yokohama, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_3">[3]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">aspect of rural life, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_4">[4]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">bull, the beast of burden <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_5">[5]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the jinrikisha, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_5">[5]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">great courtesy of all classes, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_6">[6]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">women as field hands, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_8">[8]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Tokio, the picturesque capital, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_10">[10-15]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Nikko, city of temples, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_16">[16-21]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Kyoto, the ancient capital, famous for gardens and art work, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_22">[22-27]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">railway travel, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_22">[22-23]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Kobe,<a class="indexlink" href="#Page_28">[28-33]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Osaka, chief manufacturing city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_29">[29]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Inland Sea, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_30">[30]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Nagasaki, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_30">[30-32]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">development of sense of beauty, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_34">[34-37]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">influence of the garden on artistic sense, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_34">[34-35]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">are the Japanese honest? <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_28">[28-39]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">influence of Christianity, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_41">[41-42]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the sampan, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_43">[43]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">influence of military training, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_45">[45-46]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">loyalty to country, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_46">[46-47]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Karnak, the greatest temple of ancient Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_147">[147-149]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its enormous size, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_147">[147]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its hypostile hall, one of the wonders of the world, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_147">[147-148]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">hieroglyphs of Seti and Rameses, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_148">[148]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">obelisks erected by Queen Hatasu, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_148">[148]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">colossal statues and columns, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_148">[148]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">cost in human life, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_149">[149]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Kobe, greatest commercial seaport of Japan, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_28">[28-29]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its many foreign schools, colleges and missions, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_28">[28]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Kyoto, ancient Japanese capital, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_22">[22-27]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">richly decorated temples, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_24">[24]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">satsuma, cloissone and damascene work, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_24">[24-25]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">attractive shops, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_26">[26]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">great bronze Daibutsa, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_26">[26]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_27">[27]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Lawrence, Sir Henry, to whose wise precautions the British in Lucknow owed their lives during the mutiny; he was killed in the early days of the siege, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_107">[107]</a>.</p>
+
+<p class="index">Lucknow, scene of the most famous siege in the Indian mutiny, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_106">[106-109]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>ruins of the Residency, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_106">[106]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">story of the siege, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_107">[107-108]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">memorial tablets to British heroes, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_108">[108]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Luxor, with ruins of the finest temple in Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_143">[143-146]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">built by Amenophis III; restored and enlarged by Rameses II, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_143">[143-144]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">plan of the temple, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_144">[144-145]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Rameses exposed by Egyptologists, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_146">[146]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">temple of Karnak, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_147">[147-149]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Manila, capital of Philippines and American naval base in Far East, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_51">[51-62]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">hospitality of Americans, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_52">[52]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">reenforced concrete favorite building material, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_52">[52]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its splendid docks, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_52">[52]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Escolta, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_52">[52]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Bridge of Spain, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_53">[53]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the carabao or water buffalo, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_53">[53]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">old walled city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_54">[54]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">historical gates, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_54">[54]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">famous churches, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_55">[55]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">doors open to the ambitious Filipino youths, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_56">[56]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">influence of American schools, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_56">[56-57]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Dr. George W. Wright on religious work in Philippines, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_56">[56-57]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">sanitary reforms which have made Manila healthy port, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_57">[57]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">work of the Constabulary Guard, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_58">[58]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">scenes on the Luneta, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_60">[60]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">nipa huts of natives, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_61">[61-62]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">fondness of people for music, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_62">[62]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">American gramophones in native huts, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_62">[62]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Nana Sahib, the evil genius of the Indian mutiny, who broke faith with prisoners at Cawnpore, shot the men, and ordered 125 women and children butchered and cast into a well, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_109">[109]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nara, seat of oldest temples in Japan, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_26">[26-27]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">tame deer in park, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_26">[26]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nicholson, John, Brigadier-General, the ablest man the Indian mutiny produced, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_121">[121]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">he led the British march on Delhi and fell at the storming of the Lahore gate, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_122">[122]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nagasaki, great Japanese seaport, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_30">[30-33]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">girls coaling steamers, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_31">[31-32]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">trip to Mogi, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_33">[33]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nikko, the Japanese city of temples, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_16">[16-21]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">eighth century Buddhist temple, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_17">[17]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Sacred Red Bridge, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_17">[17]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">imperial tombs, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_17">[17-19]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">school pilgrimages, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_19">[19]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">famous cryptomeria avenue to Imaichi, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_20">[20-21]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Nile, sailing down the, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_156">[156-160]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">importance of river to Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_156">[156]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">ancient method of irrigation by shadouf, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_157">[157-158]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">poor pay for hard work, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_158">[158]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">prevalence of eye diseases, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_159">[159]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">squalid homes of the natives, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_160">[160]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">beauty of views along the Nile, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_160">[160]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Osaka, Japan's chief manufacturing city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_29">[29]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Hideyoshi's castle, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_29">[29]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Parsees, importance in municipal life of Bombay, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_129">[129]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">religion that of Zoroaster, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_129">[129-130]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">gifts by rich Parsee merchants, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_131">[131]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">quaint marriage customs, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_132">[132]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">towers of silence where dead are exposed, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_133">[133-135]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Pyramids, among the oldest human work on earth, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_161">[161-163]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">size and cost of construction, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_162">[162-163]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">ascent of Gizeh, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_163">[163]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">features of the Sphinx, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_164">[164]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">rock tombs of Sakkara, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_164">[164]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Raffles, Sir Stamford, the maker of Singapore and founder of great Malayan museum, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_81">[81]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="index">Rangoon, Burma's largest city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_89">[89-92]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">elephants piling teak, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_89">[89-90]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Shwe Dagon Pagoda, center of the Buddhist faith in Orient, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_90">[90-91]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">splendid decoration of shrines, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_91">[91-92]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Shah Jehan, the greatest builder among the Mogul Emperors of India, who immortalized his name by erecting the Taj Mahal, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_112">[112]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Singapore, gateway to the Far East, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_80">[80-88]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">humidity of atmosphere, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_80">[80]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">world's largest dry dock, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_81">[81]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Sir Stamford Raffles, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_81">[81]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">great mixture of races, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_81">[81-82]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">traits of the Malay, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_83">[83]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">importance of Chinese, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_84">[84-85]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">night scenes in Malay and Chinese quarters, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_85">[85-87]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">large opium dens, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_87">[87]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">fine botanical gardens, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_88">[88]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Taj Mahal, the world's most beautiful building at Agra, India, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_111">[111-116]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">built by Shah Jehan as memorial to favorite wife, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_112">[112]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">cost in money and human life, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_112">[112]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its perfect architecture, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_114">[114]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">lavish decoration, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_115">[115]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">restoration by Lord Curzon, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_116">[116]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Thebes, tomb city of the ancient Egyptian kings, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_150">[150-155]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">desolate site across the Nile from Luxor, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_150">[150-151]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">electric-lighted tombs, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_151">[151]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">rock-hewn tomb of Rameses IV, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_152">[152]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">tombs of other monarchs, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_152">[152-153]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">only one contains royal mummy, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_154">[154]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">fine temple of Queen Hatasu, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_153">[153]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">the Ramessium, with largest statue found in Egypt, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_154">[154]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">Colossi of Memnon, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_154">[154]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">why one of the statues was musical, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_155">[155]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index">Tokio, the Japanese capital, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_10">[10-15]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">its splendid parks, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_11">[11-13-14]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">imperial palace, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_13">[13]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">tombs of six shoguns, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_14">[14]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">night work in shops, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_15">[15]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Wheeler, General, whose confidence in his native troops, cost the lives of all the garrison of Cawnpore, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_109">[109]</a></p>
+
+<p class="index0">Yokohama, much Europeanized Japanese city, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_3">[3]</a>;</p>
+<p class="index2">good tourist outfitting point, <a class="indexlink" href="#Page_4">[4]</a></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+AND SO ENDS THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT, CONTAINING<br />
+THE IMPRESSIONS OF GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH ON THE<br />
+FIRST HALF OF HIS TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. PUBLISHED<br />
+IN BOOK FORM BY PAUL ELDER &amp; COMPANY<br />
+AND SEEN THROUGH THEIR TOMOYE PRESS BY JOHN<br />
+SWART DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL, MCMXIII, IN<br />
+THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="tnote">
+
+<p class="center"><b>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:</b></p>
+
+<p>Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (hotfoot,
+hot-foot)</p>
+
+<p>In the original text, captions of plates and illustrations did not have
+terminating punctuation except for the caption of Plate XXXVII. This
+caption had a terminating period which has been retained.</p>
+
+<p>Pg. 12, unusual spelling of "embassadors" retained.</p>
+
+<p>Pg. 12, duplicated word "of" removed. (mansions of the Japanese")</p>
+
+<p>Pg. 112, duplicated word "on" removed. (little trace on its walls)</p>
+
+<p>Pg. 161, "hugh" changed to "huge". (as huge as the pyramid)</p>
+
+<p>Index. In the original text, the last sub-item of an index entry did not
+have any terminating punctuation except for the index entry
+"Lawrence, Sir Henry". This entry had a terminating period which has
+been retained.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Critic in the Orient
+
+Author: George Hamlin Fitch
+
+Release Date: November 11, 2008 [EBook #27233]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  THE CRITIC
+  IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     The Taj Mahal at
+      Agra. This Tomb,
+    Built by Shah Jahan
+    to Immortalize His
+     Favorite Wife, Is
+    Conceded to be the
+  Most Beautiful Building
+       in the World
+  "Matchless, perfect in
+     form, a miracle
+  Of grace and tenderness
+      and symmetry,
+  Pearl-pure against the
+    sapphire of the
+          sky"]
+
+
+
+
+                       THE CRITIC
+                     IN THE ORIENT
+
+
+                  GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH
+
+                       AUTHOR OF
+           "COMFORT FOUND IN GOOD OLD BOOKS"
+            "MODERN ENGLISH BOOKS OF POWER"
+              "THE CRITIC IN THE OCCIDENT"
+
+
+           East is East and West is West and
+              never the twain shall meet,
+           Till Earth and Sky stand presently
+             at God's great Judgment Seat.
+                       --Kipling
+
+
+                      ILLUSTRATED
+                          FROM
+                      PHOTOGRAPHS
+
+
+                 PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY
+               PUBLISHERS . SAN FRANCISCO
+
+
+
+
+                   _Copyright, 1913_
+               by PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY
+
+                  The chapters of this
+            book appeared originally in the
+  Sunday supplement of the San Francisco _Chronicle_.
+           The privilege of reproducing them
+             here is due to the courtesy of
+                  M. H. de Young, Esq.
+
+                 The author is greatly
+           indebted to Isaac O. Upham, Esq.,
+     for the fine photographs which illustrate the
+            section on Japan and for several
+                 photographs of Indian
+                         scenes
+
+
+
+
+                 TO MY FELLOW TOURISTS
+                ON THE MINNESOTA, WHOSE
+                COMPANIONSHIP MADE MANY
+                TEDIOUS JOURNEYS BY LAND
+                   AND SEA ENJOYABLE
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+  Introduction                                                IX
+
+
+  The Best Results of Travel in the Orient                  XIII
+
+
+  Japan, The Picture Country of the Orient                     1
+
+  First Impressions of Japan and the Life of the Japanese--
+  The Japanese Capital and its Parks and Temples--The
+  Most Famous City of Temples in all Japan--In Kyoto,
+  The Ancient Capital of Japan--Kobe, Osaka, The Inland
+  Sea and Nagasaki--Development of the Japanese Sense of
+  Beauty--Conclusions on Japanese Life and Character--
+  Will the Japanese Retain Their Good Traits?
+
+
+  Manila, Transformed by the Americans                        49
+
+  First Impressions of Manila and Its Picturesque People--
+  American Work in the Philippine Islands--Scenes in the
+  City of Manila and Suburbs.
+
+
+  Hongkong, Canton, Singapore and Rangoon                     63
+
+  Hongkong, the Greatest British Port in the Orient--A
+  Visit to Canton in Days of Wild Panic--Singapore, the
+  Meeting Place of Many Races--strange Night Scenes in
+  the City of Singapore--Characteristic Sights in Burma's
+  Largest City.
+
+
+  India, The Land of Temples, Palaces and Monuments           93
+
+  Calcutta, the Most Beautiful of Oriental Cities--Bathing,
+  and Burning the Dead at Benares--Lucknow and Cawnpore,
+  Cities of the Mutiny--The Taj Mahal, the World's
+  Loveliest Building--Delhi and Its Ancient Mohammedan
+  Ruins--Scenes in Bombay When the King Arrived--Religion
+  and Customs of the Bombay Parsees.
+
+
+  Egypt, The Home of Hieroglyphs, Tombs and Mummies          135
+
+  Picturesque Oriental Life as Seen in Cairo--Among the
+  Ruins of Luxor and Karnak--Tombs of The Kings at
+  Ancient Thebes--Sailing Down the Nile on a Small
+  Steamer--Before the Pyramids and the Sphinx.
+
+
+  Hints for Travelers                                        167
+
+  Some Suggestions That May Save the Tourist Time and
+  Money.
+
+
+  Bibliography                                               171
+
+  Books Which Help One to Understand the Orient and
+  Its People.
+
+
+  Index                                                      175
+
+
+
+
+  ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                                            PAGE
+
+  The Taj Mahal at Agra                           _Frontispiece_
+
+  The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko          _Facing_ 14
+
+  The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha at Hyogo                30
+
+  Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila                        56
+
+  The City of Boats at Canton                                 74
+
+  Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares                   100
+
+  Front View of the Taj Mahal, Agra                          114
+
+  One of the Main Avenues of Bombay                          126
+
+  The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak                         146
+
+
+  PLATES
+
+                                                           PLATE
+
+  Japan                                 _Following page_ 48
+
+  Street Scene, Asakusa Park, Tokyo                            I
+
+  Entrance Hall of Modern Home of a Tokyo Millionaire         II
+
+  Bronze Lanterns and Sacred Fountain, Shiba Temple, Tokyo   III
+
+  Sacred Red Bridge at Nikko                                  IV
+
+  Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko               V
+
+  Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko                     VI
+
+  Great Bronze Torii, Nikko                                  VII
+
+  Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara                  VIII
+
+  Religious Procession, Kyoto                                 IX
+
+  Scene on Canal, Kyoto                                        X
+
+  Street Scene in Kobe                                        XI
+
+  A Group of Japanese Schoolboys                             XII
+
+  Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside                    XIII
+
+  Scene in Large Private Garden, Kyoto                       XIV
+
+  Iris Bed at Horikiri, near Tokyo                            XV
+
+  Private Garden, Kamakura                                   XVI
+
+
+  Manila                                _Following page_ 62
+
+  A Glimpse of the Escolta, Manila                          XVII
+
+  Old Church and Bridge at Pasig                           XVIII
+
+  The Binondo Canal at Manila                                XIX
+
+  On the Malecon Drive, Manila                                XX
+
+  View on a Manila Canal                                     XXI
+
+  A Filipino Peasant Girl on the Way to Market              XXII
+
+  The Carabao Cart in the Philippines                      XXIII
+
+  The Nipa Hut of the Filipino                              XXIV
+
+
+  Hongkong, Canton, Singapore, Rangoon  _Following page_  91
+
+  Queen's Road in Hongkong.                                  XXV
+
+  Flower Market in a Hongkong Street                        XXVI
+
+  Coolies Carrying Burdens at Hongkong                     XXVII
+
+  The Spacious Foreign Bund at Hongkong                   XXVIII
+
+  Chinese Junks in Hongkong Harbor                          XXIX
+
+  View of the Water-front at Canton                          XXX
+
+  The New Chinese Bund at Canton                            XXXI
+
+  A Confucian Festival at Singapore                        XXXII
+
+  A Main Street in the Native Quarter of Singapore        XXXIII
+
+  The Y. M. C. A. Building at Singapore                    XXXIV
+
+  The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon                    XXXV
+
+  Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda                        XXXVI
+
+  Burmese Worshipping in the Pagoda at Rangoon            XXXVII
+
+  Riverside Scene at Rangoon                             XXXVIII
+
+  Trained Elephant Piling Teak at Rangoon                  XXXIX
+
+  Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon                           XL
+
+
+  India                                 _Following page_ 134
+
+  One of the Main Gates to Government House, Calcutta        XLI
+
+  A Street Scene in Calcutta                                XLII
+
+  The Great Burning Ghat at Benares                        XLIII
+
+  View of the Bathing Ghats at Benares                      XLIV
+
+  A Holy Man of Benares Under His Umbrella                   XLV
+
+  The Residency at Lucknow                                  XLVI
+
+  Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet at Agra                          XLVII
+
+  The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore                         XLVIII
+
+  Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra              XLIX
+
+  The Jasmine Tower in Agra Fort                               L
+
+  Snap-shot of a Jain Family at Agra                          LI
+
+  The Fort at Agra Which Encloses Many Palaces               LII
+
+  Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi     LIII
+
+  Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth, Delhi                        LIV
+
+  Street View in Delhi                                        LV
+
+  A Parsee Tower of Silence at Bombay                        LVI
+
+
+  Egypt                                 _Following page_ 164
+
+  A Typical Street in Old Cairo                             LVII
+
+  An Arab Cafe in One of Cairo's Streets                   LVIII
+
+  Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume                    LIX
+
+  The Rameseon at Karnak                                      LX
+
+  The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak                           LXI
+
+  An Arab Village on the Nile                               LXII
+
+  The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes                       LXIII
+
+  The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple Underneath           LXIV
+
+
+
+
+Introduction
+
+
+This book of impressions of the Far East is called "The Critic in the
+Orient," because the writer for over thirty years has been a
+professional critic of new books--one trained to get at the best in all
+literary works and reveal it to the reader. This critical work--a
+combination of rapid reading and equally rapid written estimate of new
+publications--would have been deadly, save for a love of books, so deep
+and enduring that it has turned drudgery into pastime and an enthusiasm
+for discovering good things in every new book which no amount of
+literary trash was ever able to smother.
+
+After years of such strenuous critical work, the mind becomes molded in
+a certain cast. It is as impossible for me to put aside the habit of the
+literary critic as it would be for a hunter who had spent his whole life
+in the woods to be content in a great city. So when I started out on
+this trip around the world the critical apparatus which I had used in
+getting at the heart of books was applied to the people and the places
+along this great girdle about the globe.
+
+Much of the benefit of foreign travel depends upon the reading that one
+has done. For years my eager curiosity about places had led me to read
+everything printed about the Orient and the South Seas. Add to this the
+stories which were brought into a newspaper office by globe trotters and
+adventurers, and you have an equipment which made me at times seem to be
+merely revising impressions made on an earlier journey. When you talk
+with a man who has spent ten or twenty years in Japan or China or the
+Straits Settlements, you cannot fail to get something of the color of
+life in those strange lands, especially if you have the newspaper
+training which impels you to ask questions and to drag out of your
+informant everything of human interest that the reader will care to
+know.
+
+This newspaper instinct, which is developed by training but which one
+must possess in large measure before he can be successful in journalism,
+seizes upon everything and transmutes it into "copy" for the printer. To
+have taken this journey without setting down every day my impressions of
+places and people would have been a tiresome experience. What seemed
+labor to others who had not had my special training was as the breath in
+my nostrils. Even in the debilitating heat of the tropics it was always
+a pastime, never a task, to put into words my ideas of the historic
+places which I knew so well from years of reading and which I had just
+seen. And the richer the background of history, the greater was my
+enjoyment in painting with words full of color a picture of my
+impressions, for the benefit of those who were not able to share my
+pleasure in the actual sight of these famous places of the Far East.
+
+From the mass of newspaper letters written while every impression was
+sharp and clear, I have selected what seemed to me most significant and
+illustrative. It is only when the traveler looks back over a journey
+that he gets the true perspective. Then only is he able to see what is
+of general and permanent interest. Most of the vexations of travel I
+have eliminated, as these lose their force once they have gone over into
+yesterday. What remains is the beauty of scenery, the grandeur of
+architecture, the spiritual quality of famous paintings and statues, the
+appealing traits of various peoples.
+
+
+
+
+  The Best
+  Results of Travel in
+  the Orient
+
+
+The Best Results of Travel in the Orient
+
+This volume includes impressions of the first half of a trip around the
+world. The remainder of the journey will fill a companion volume, which
+will comprise two chapters devoted to New York and the effect it
+produced on me after seeing the great cities of the world. As I have
+said in the preface, these are necessarily first impressions, jotted
+down when fresh and clear; but it is doubtful whether a month spent in
+any of these places would have forced a revision of these first
+glimpses, set in the mordant of curiosity and enthusiasm. When the mind
+is saturated with the literature of a place, it is quick to seize on
+what appeals to the imagination, and this appeal is the one which must
+be considered in every case where there is an historical or legendary
+background to give salient relief to palace or temple, statue or
+painting. Without this background the noblest work seems dull and
+lifeless. With it the palace stamps itself upon the imagination, the
+temple stirs the emotions, the statue speaks, the painting has a direct
+spiritual message.
+
+Certain parts of the Orient are not rich in this imaginative material
+which appeals to one fond of history or art; but this defect is
+compensated for by an extraordinary picturesqueness of life and a
+wonderful luxuriance of nature. The Oriental trip also makes less demand
+on one's reading than even a hasty journey through Europe. There are few
+pictures, few statues. Only India and Egypt appeal to the sense of the
+historical, Japan stands alone, alien to all our ways of life and
+thought, but so intensely artistic, so saturated with the intellectual
+spirit that it seems to belong to another world than this material,
+commercial existence that stamps all European and American life. The new
+China furnishes an attractive field of study, but unfortunately when I
+visited the country it was in the throes of revolution and travel was
+dangerous anywhere outside the great treaty ports.
+
+One of the best results of foreign travel is that it makes one revise
+his estimate of alien races. When I started out it was with a strong
+prejudice against the Japanese, probably due to my observation of some
+rather unlovely specimens whom I had encountered in San Francisco. A
+short stay in Japan served to give me a new point of view in regard to
+both the people and the country of the Mikado. It was impossible to
+escape from the fact that here is a race which places loyalty to country
+and personal honor higher than life, and this sentiment was not confined
+to the educated and wealthy classes but was general throughout the
+nation. Here also is a people so devoted to the culture of beauty that
+they travel hundreds of miles to see the annual chrysanthemum and other
+flower festivals. And here is a people so devoted to art for art's sake
+that even the poor and uneducated have little gardens in their back
+yards and houses which reveal a refined taste in architecture and
+decoration. The poorest artisans are genuine artists and their work
+shows a beauty and a finish only to be found in the work of the highest
+designers in our country.
+
+In one chapter of the section on Japan, I have dwelt on the ingenious
+theory that it is their devotion to the garden that has kept the
+Japanese from being spoiled by the great strides they have made in the
+last twenty years in commerce and conquest. To take foremost place
+among the powers of the world without any preliminary struggle is an
+achievement which well might turn the heads of any people; yet this
+exploit has simply confirmed the Japanese in the opinion that their
+national training has resulted in this success that other nations have
+won only by the expenditure of years of labor and study. When you see
+the reverence which every one in Japan shows at the tombs of the
+Forty-seven Ronins, you feel that here is a spiritual force which is
+lacking in every European country; here is something, whether you call
+it loyalty or patriotism or fanaticism, which makes even the women and
+children of Japan eager to sacrifice all that they hold most dear on the
+altar of their country. No less striking than their loyalty is the
+courtesy of the Japanese which makes travel in their country a pleasure.
+Even the poor and ignorant country people show in their mutual relations
+a politeness that would do credit to the most civilized race, while all
+exhibit toward foreigners a courtesy and consideration that is often
+repaid by boorishness and insult on the part of tourists and foreign
+residents of Japan. Another feature of Japanese life that cannot fail to
+impress the stranger is the small weight that is given to wealth. In
+their relations with foreigners the governing class and the wealthy
+people are sticklers for all the conventional forms; but among
+themselves the simplicity of their social life is very attractive.
+Elaborate functions are unknown and changes of costume, which make
+women's dress so large an item of family expense in any European
+country, are unnecessary. Some of the rich Japanese are now lavishing
+money on their homes, which are partly modeled on European plans; but in
+the main the residences, even of rich people, are very simple and
+unpretentious. These homes are filled with priceless porcelains, jades,
+paintings and prints, but there is no display merely for the sake of
+exhibiting art treasures.
+
+In Manila the American tourist has a good opportunity to contrast what
+has been done by his countrymen with what the British have accomplished
+in ports like Hongkong and Singapore. Doubtless the English plan will
+show the larger financial returns, but it is carried out with a selfish
+disregard of the interests of the natives which stirs the gorge of an
+American. The Englishman believes in keeping a wide gulf between the
+dominant and the humble classes. He does not believe in educating the
+native to think that he can rise from the class in which he is born. The
+American scheme in the Philippines has been to encourage the development
+of character and efficiency, wherever found; and the result is that many
+public positions are open to men who were head-hunting savages ten years
+ago. Above all other things in the Philippines we have proved, as we
+have shown at Panama, that a tropical climate need not be an unhealthful
+one. We have banished from Manila cholera, yellow fever and bubonic
+plague--three pests that once made it dreaded in the Orient. This, with
+an ample water supply, is an achievement worthy of pride, when one
+contrasts it with the unsanitary sewerage system of Hongkong and
+Singapore.
+
+The small part of the great Chinese Empire which I was able to see gave
+me a vivid impression of the activity and enthusiasm of the people in
+spreading the new Republican doctrines. The way old things have been put
+aside and the new customs adopted seems almost like a miracle. Fancy a
+whole people discarding their time-honored methods of examination for
+the civil service, along with their queues, their caps and their shoes.
+All the authorities have predicted that China would be centuries in
+showing the same changes which the Japanese have made in a single
+generation; but recent events go far to prove that Japan will be
+outstripped in the race for progress by its slow-going neighbor. What
+profoundly impresses any visitor to China is the stamina and the
+working capacity of the common people. Tireless laborers these Chinese
+are, whether they work for themselves or the European. What they will be
+able to accomplish with labor-saving machinery no one can predict.
+Certainly should they accept modern methods of work, with the same
+enthusiasm that they have adopted new methods of government, the markets
+of the world will be upset by the product of these four hundred million.
+China is to-day in transformation--fluctuant, far-reaching, limited only
+by the capacity of a singularly excitable people to absorb new ideas.
+
+In India great is the contrast to China and Japan. Here is an old
+civilization, founded on caste: here are many peoples but all joined to
+the worship of a system that says the son must follow in the footsteps
+of the father; that one cannot break bread with a stranger of another
+caste lest he and his tribe be defiled. Nothing more hideous was ever
+conceived than this Indian caste system, yet it has held its own against
+the force of foreign learning and probably will continue to fetter the
+development of the natives of India for centuries to come. Some simple
+reforms the English have secured, like the abolition of suttee and the
+improved condition of the child widows; but their influence on the great
+mass of the people has been pitiably small. India bears the same
+relation to the Orient that Italy does to Europe. It is the home of
+temples, palaces and monuments; it is the land of beautiful art work in
+many materials. Most of its cities have a splendid historical past that
+is seen in richly ornamented temples and shrines, in the tombs of its
+illustrious dead and in palaces that surpass in beauty of decoration
+anything which Europe can boast.
+
+In considering India it must always be borne in mind that here was the
+original seat of the Aryan civilization and that, though the Hindoo is
+as dark as many of the American negroes, he is of Aryan stock like
+ourselves. In comparison with the men who carried Aryan civilization
+throughout the world, the Hindoo of to-day is as far removed as is the
+modern Greek from the Greek of the time of Pericles and Phidias. Yet he
+shows all the signs of race in clear-cut features and in small hands and
+feet.
+
+The journey throughout India is one which calls for some philosophy, as
+the train arrangements are never good and, unless one has the luck to
+secure a competent guide, he will be annoyed by the excessive greed of
+every one with whom he comes in contact. But aside from such troubles
+the trip is one which richly repays the traveler. If one has time it is
+admirable to go off the beaten track to some of the minor places which
+have fine historical remains; but a good idea of India may be obtained
+by taking the regular route from Calcutta to Bombay, by way of Delhi.
+
+In Benares the tourist first meets the swarms of beggars that make life
+a burden. Aged men, with loathsome sores, stand whining at corners
+beseeching the favor of a two-anna piece; blind men, led by small,
+skinny children, set up a mournful wail and then curse you fluently when
+you pass them by, and scores of children rise up out of hovels at the
+roadside and pursue your carriage with shrill screams. All are filthy,
+clamorous, greedy, inexpressibly offensive. If you are soft hearted and
+give to one, then your day is made hideous by a swarm of mendicants,
+tireless in pursuit and only kept from actual invasion of the carriage
+by fear of the driver's whip.
+
+The feature which makes travel on Indian railways a weariness of the
+flesh is the roughness of the cars. Each truck on the passenger cars is
+provided with two large wheels, exactly like those on freight cars, and
+these wheels have wooden felloes and spokes. With poor springs the
+result is that though the road-bed is perfect the cars are as rough as
+our freight cars. When the speed is over twenty-five miles an hour or
+the road is crooked, the motion of the cars is well nigh intolerable.
+Ordinarily the motion is so great that reading is difficult and writing
+out of the question. At night the jar of the car is so severe that one
+must be very tired or very phlegmatic to get any refreshing sleep. When
+one travels all day and all night at a stretch--as in the journey from
+Jeypore to Bombay--the fatigue is out of all proportion to the distance
+covered. In fact Americans have been spoiled by the comforts of Pullman
+sleeping-cars, in which foreign critics find so many flaws. Probably the
+chief annoyance to our party of Americans, aside from the jar of the
+cars, was the dust and soot which poured in day and night. The engines
+burn soft coal and the dust on the road-beds is excessive. A system of
+double windows and well-fitting screens would remove this nuisance, but
+apparently the British in India think dust and grime necessary features
+of railway travel, for no effort is made to eliminate them.
+
+No Oriental trip would be complete without a visit to Egypt, and
+especially a ride on the Nile. It is more difficult to make anyone
+realize the charm of Egypt than of any other country of the Orient. The
+people are dirty, ignorant, brutish: their faces contain no appeal
+because they are the faces of Millet's "The Man With the Hoe." Centuries
+of subjection have killed the pride which still lingers in the face and
+bearing of the poorest Arab; the Egyptian peasant does not wear the
+collar of Gurth, but he is a slave of the soil whose day of freedom is
+afar off. Yet these degenerate people are seen against a background of
+the most imposing ruins in the world. Luxor and Karnak and the tombs of
+the kings near old Thebes contain enough remains of the splendor of
+ancient Egyptian life to permit study for years. The mind is appalled by
+this mass of temples, monuments, obelisks and colossal statues. It is
+difficult to realize that the same people who are seen toiling in the
+fields to-day raised these huge monuments to perpetuate the names of
+their rulers. A climate as dry as that of the Colorado desert has
+preserved these remains, so that in the rock tombs one may gaze upon
+brightly painted hieroglyphs of the time of Moses that look as though
+they were carved yesterday.
+
+In this Oriental tour the stamp of strange religions is over all the
+lands. The temple is the keynote of each race. And religion with the
+Oriental is not a matter of one day's worship in seven: it is a vital,
+daily function into which he puts all the dreamy mysticism of his race.
+The first sight of several Mohammedans bowed in the dust by the
+roadside, with their faces set toward Mecca, gives one a strange thrill,
+but this spectacle soon loses its novelty. Everywhere in the Far East
+religion is a matter of form and ceremony: it includes regular visits to
+the temple and regular prayers and offerings to the deities enshrined in
+these houses of worship. But it also includes a daily ritual that must
+be observed at certain fixed hours, even though the believer may be in
+the midst of the crowded market place. The spiritual isolation of an
+Oriental at his prayers in any big city of the Far East is the most
+significant feature of this life--so alien to all the mental, moral, and
+religious training of the Occident. Vain is it for one of Anglo-Saxon
+strain to attempt to bridge this abyss that lies between his mind and
+that of the Burman or the Parsee. Each lives in a spiritual world of his
+own and each would be homesick for heaven were he transferred to the
+ideal paradise of the other. So the traveler in the Orient should give
+heed to the temples, for in them is voiced the spiritual aspirations of
+the people, who have little of comfort or hope to cheer them in this
+world.
+
+
+
+
+  JAPAN, THE
+  PICTURE COUNTRY OF
+  THE ORIENT
+
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN AND THE LIFE OF THE JAPANESE
+
+Yokohama looks very beautiful to the traveler who has spent over two
+weeks on the long sea voyage from Seattle; but it has little to commend
+it to the tourist, for most of its native traits have been Europeanized.
+It is noteworthy, however, as the best place except Hongkong for the
+traveler to purchase an oriental outfit and it is probably the cheapest
+place in the world for trunks and bags and all leather goods. Its bund,
+or water-front, is spacious and its leading hotels are very comfortable.
+
+Of Japan and the Japanese, all that can be given are a few general
+impressions of the result of two weeks of constant travel over the
+empire and of talks with many people.
+
+Of the country itself, the prevailing impression of the tourist, who
+crosses it on the railroad or who takes rides through the paddy fields
+in a rickshaw, is of a perennial greenness. Instead of the tawny yellow
+of California in October, one sees here miles on miles of rice fields,
+some of vivid green, others of green turning to gold. The foothills of
+the mountains remind one of the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, as they
+all bear evidences of the rounding and smoothing of glacial action.
+
+At a distance the rice fields look like grain fields, but seen near at
+hand they are found to be great swamps of water, with row on row of
+rice, the dead furrows either serving as ditches or as raised paths
+across the fields. Every bit of hillside is terraced and planted to rice
+or vegetables or fruit.
+
+Often these little, terraced fields, which look like the natural mesa of
+southern California, will not be over fifty feet long by ten or fifteen
+feet wide. Between the rows of fruit trees are vegetables or corn or
+sorghum. The farmers live in little villages and apparently go home
+every night after tilling their fields. There are none of the scattered
+farmhouses, with trees around them, which are so characteristic a
+feature of any American rural scene.
+
+The towns as well as the cities show a uniformity of architecture, as
+most of the shops are one story or a story and one-half, while the
+residences seem to be built on a uniform plan, with great variety in
+gateways and decoration of grounds. Most of the roofs are made of a
+black clay, corrugated so that it looks like the Spanish-American tile,
+and many of the walls that surround residences and temples are of adobe,
+with a tiled covering, precisely as one sees to-day the remains of adobe
+walls in old Spanish-Californian towns.
+
+The general impression of any Japanese city when seen from a height is
+that of a great expanse of low buildings with a liberal sprinkling of
+trees and a few pagodas or roofs of Buddhist temples.
+
+The strongest impression that the unprejudiced observer receives in
+Japan is of the small value set upon labor as well as upon time by the
+great mass of the people. In Yokohama and in Kobe, which show the most
+signs of foreign influence, the same traits prevail.
+
+It is one of the astonishing spectacles of the world, this
+accomplishment of the business of a great nation by man power alone.
+Only in one city, Osaka, the Chicago of Japan, is there any general
+evidence of the adoption of up-to-date methods in manufacturing.
+Everywhere one sees all the small industries of the country carried on
+in the same way that they were conducted in Palestine in the time of
+Christ.
+
+Everywhere men, harnessed to heavy push carts, are seen straining to
+haul loads that are enough for a horse. The few horses in the cities are
+used for heavy trucks, in common with bulls, for the Japanese bull is a
+beast of burden and not one of the lords of creation as in our own
+country.
+
+The bull is harnessed with a short neckyoke and a saddle on his back,
+which bears a close resemblance to the riding saddle of the Cossack.
+Some rope traces are hitched to crude, home-made whiffletrees. The bull,
+as well as the horse, is guided by a rope line. The carts are remarkably
+heavy, with wheels of great weight, yet many of these carts are pulled
+by two men.
+
+In the big cities may be seen a few victorias, or other carriages, and
+an occasional motor car, but both these means of conveyance can be used
+with safety only on the broadest avenues. In the narrow streets of the
+native quarter, which seldom exceed ten feet in width and which have no
+sidewalks, the jinrikisha is the only carriage. This is a light,
+two-wheeled gig, drawn by one man and frequently on the steep grades
+pushed from the back by a second man. The rickshaw man has a bell gong
+on one shaft, which he rings when approaching a sharp turn in the street
+or when he sees several trucks or other rickshaws approaching. The bell
+also serves to warn old people or children who may be careless, for the
+rickshaw has the right of way and the pedestrian must turn to either
+side to give it the road. Americans, who are far more considerate of the
+feelings of the Japanese than other foreigners, frequently may be seen
+walking up the steep grades in such hilly cities as Nikko, Nara and
+Kobe, but long residence in Japan is said to make everyone callous of
+the straining and the sweating of the rickshaw man.
+
+Purposely my itinerary included a number of little towns, which
+practically have been uninfluenced by foreign customs. In these places
+may be seen the primitive Japanese life, unchanged for hundreds of
+years. Yet everywhere one cannot fail to be impressed by the tireless
+industry of the people, and by their general good nature and courtesy.
+
+In any other country in the world, a party of Americans with their
+foreign dress would have provoked some insulting remarks, some gestures
+that could not be mistaken; but here in rural Japan was seen the same
+perfect courtesy shown in the Europeanized sections of the big cities.
+The people, to be sure, made no change in their way of life. Mothers
+suckled their infants in front of their little shops, and children stood
+naked and unashamed, lost in wonder over the strange spectacle of the
+party of foreign people that dashed by in rickshaws.
+
+Naked men, with only a G-string to distinguish them from the costume of
+Adam before the expulsion from Eden, labored at many tasks, and
+frequently our little cavalcade swept by the great Government schools
+where hundreds of little Japanese are being educated to help out the
+manifest destiny of the empire.
+
+This courtesy and good nature among the poorest class of the Japanese
+people is not confined to their treatment of foreigners; it extends to
+all their daily relations with one another. A nearly naked coolie
+pulling a heavy cart begs a light for his cigarette with a bow that
+would do honor to a Chesterfield.
+
+A street blockade that in New York or San Francisco would not be
+untangled without much profanity and some police interference is cleared
+here in a moment because everyone is willing to yield and to recognize
+that the most heavily burdened has the right of way.
+
+In all my wanderings by day or night in the large Japanese cities I
+never except once saw a policeman lift his, hand to exercise his
+authority. This exception was in Tokio, where a band of mischievous
+schoolboys was following a party of gayly dressed ladies in rickshaws
+and laughing and chattering. The guardian of the peace admonished them
+with a few short, crisp words, and they scuttled into the nearest
+alleys.
+
+The industry of the people, whether in city or country, is as amazing as
+their courtesy. The Japanese work seven days in the week, and the year
+is broken only by a few festivals that are generally observed by the
+complete cessation of labor. In the large cities work goes on in most of
+the shops until ten or eleven o'clock at night, and it is resumed at six
+o'clock the next morning.
+
+The most impressive spectacle during several night rides through miles
+of Tokio streets was the number of young lads from twelve to sixteen
+years of age who had fallen asleep at their tasks. With head pillowed on
+arm they slumbered on the hard benches, where they had been working
+since early morning, while the older men labored alongside at their
+tasks.
+
+From the train one saw the rice farmer and his wife and children working
+in the paddy fields as long as they could see. These people do not work
+with the fierce energy of the American mechanic, but their workday is
+from twelve to fourteen hours and, considering these long hours, they
+show great industry and conscientiousness.
+
+In some places women were employed at the hardest work, such as coaling
+ships by hand and digging and carrying earth from canals and ditches.
+
+Scarcely less impressive than the tireless industry of the people is the
+enormous number of children that may be seen both in city and country.
+It was impossible to get statistics of births, but any American
+traveling through Japan must be struck with the fact that this is a land
+not threatened by race suicide.
+
+Women who looked far beyond the time of motherhood were suckling
+infants, while all the young women seemed well provided with children.
+Girls of five or six were playing games with sleeping infants strapped
+to their backs, and even boys were impressed into this nursery work. The
+younger children are clothed only in kimonos, so that the passer-by
+witnesses many strange sights of naked Japanese cherubs.
+
+In all quarters of Tokio the children were as numerous as in tenement
+streets of American cities on a Sunday afternoon, and in small country
+towns the number of children seemed even greater than in the big cities.
+
+Another feature of Japanese life that made a profound impression on me
+was the pilgrimage of school children to the various sacred shrines
+throughout the empire. At Nikko and at Nara, two of the great seats of
+Buddhist and Shinto shrines, these child pilgrims were conspicuous. They
+were seen in bands of fifty or seventy-five, attended by tutors. The
+boys were dressed in blue or black jackets, white or blue trousers and
+white leggings. Each carried his few belongings in a small box or a
+handkerchief and each had an umbrella to protect him from the frequent
+showers.
+
+The girls had dark red merino skirts, with kimono waists of some dark
+stuff. Many were without stockings, but all wore straw sandals or those
+with wooden sole and heavy wooden clogs. School children are admitted to
+temples and shrines at half rates and in every place the guides pay
+special attention to these young visitors.
+
+Pilgrimages of soldiers and others are also very common. Whenever a
+party of one hundred is formed it receives the benefit of the half-rate
+admission. No observant tourist can fail to see that in the pilgrimages
+of these school children and these soldiers the authorities of new Japan
+find the best means of stimulating patriotism. Church and State are so
+closely welded that the Mikado is regarded as a god. Passionate devotion
+to country is the great ruling power which separates Japan from all
+other modern nations.
+
+The number of young men who leave their country to escape the three
+years' conscription is very small. The schoolboy in his most
+impressionable years is brought to these sacred shrines; he listens to
+the story of the Forty-seven Ronins and other tales of Japanese
+chivalry; his soul is fired to imitate their self-sacrificing
+patriotism. The bloody slopes of Port Arthur witnessed the effect of
+such training as this.
+
+
+THE JAPANESE CAPITAL AND ITS PARKS AND TEMPLES
+
+Tokio, the capital of Japan, is a picturesque city of enormous extent
+and the tourist who sees it in two or three days must expect to do
+strenuous work. The city, which actually covers one hundred square
+miles, is built on the low shore of Tokio bay and is intersected by the
+Sumi river and a network of narrow canals. The river and these canals
+are crossed by frequent bridges. At night the tourist may mark his
+approach to one of these canals by the evil odors that poison the air.
+Even in October the air is sultry in Tokio during the day and far into
+the night, but toward morning a penetrating damp wind arises.
+
+Although Tokio's main streets have been widened to imposing avenues that
+run through a series of great parks, the native life may be studied on
+every hand--for a block from the big streets, with their clanging
+electric cars, one comes upon narrow alleys lined with shops and teeming
+with life. Here, for the first time, the tourist sees Japanese city
+life, only slightly influenced by foreign customs. The streets are not
+more than twelve or fifteen feet wide, curbed on each side by flat
+blocks of granite, seldom more than a foot or eighteen inches wide.
+These furnish the only substitute for a sidewalk in rainy weather, as
+most of the streets are macadamized. A slight rainfall wets the surface
+and makes walking for the foreigner very disagreeable. The Japanese use
+in rainy weather the wooden sandal with two transverse clogs about two
+inches high, which lifts him out of the mud. All Japanese dignitaries
+and nearly all foreigners use the jinrikisha, which has the right of way
+in the narrow streets. The most common sound in the streets is the bell
+of the rickshaw man or his warning shout of "Hi! Hi!"
+
+My first day's excursion included a ride through Shiba and Hibiya parks
+to Uyeno Park, the resting place of many of the shoguns. This makes a
+trip which will consume the entire day. Shiba Park is noteworthy for its
+temples (which contain some of the most remarkable specimens of Japanese
+art) and for the tombs of seven of the fifteen shoguns or native rulers
+who preceded the Mikado in the government of Japan. The first and third
+shoguns are buried at Nikko, while the fourth, fifth, eighth, ninth,
+eleventh and thirteenth lie in Uyeno Park, Tokio. These mortuary chapels
+in Shiba Park are all similar in general design, the only differences
+being in the lavishness of the decoration. Out of regard for the foreign
+visitor it is not necessary to remove one's shoes in entering these
+temples, as cloth covers are provided. Each temple is divided into three
+parts--the outer oratory, a corridor and the inner sanctum, where the
+shogun alone was privileged to worship. The daimyos or nobles were lined
+up in the corridor, while the smaller nobles and chiefs filled the
+oratory. It would be tedious to describe these temples, but one will
+serve as a specimen of all. This is the temple of the second shogun,
+which is noteworthy for the beauty of the decoration of the sanctum and
+the tomb.
+
+Two enormous gilded pillars support the vaulted roof of the sanctum,
+which is formed of beams in a very curious pattern. A frieze of
+medallions of birds, gilded and painted, runs around the top of the
+wall. The shrine dates back for two and one-half centuries and is of
+rich gold lacquer. The bronze incense burner, in the form of a lion,
+bears the date of 1635. The great war drum of Ieyasu, the first of the
+Tokugawa shoguns, lies upon a richly decorated stand. Back of the temple
+is the octagonal hall, which houses the tomb of the second shogun. This
+tomb is the largest example of gold lacquer in the world, and parts of
+it are inlaid with enamel and crystal. Scenes from Liao-Ling, China, and
+Lake Biwa, Japan, adorn the upper half, while the lower half bears
+elaborate decoration of the lion and the peony. The base of the tomb is
+a solid block of stone in the shape of the lotus. The hall is supported
+by eight pillars covered with gilded copper, and the walls are covered
+with gilded lacquer. The enormous amount of money expended on these
+shrines will amaze any foreign visitor, as well as the profound
+reverence shown by the Japanese for these resting places of the shoguns.
+
+Passing along a wide avenue traversed by electric cars one soon reaches
+Hibiya Park, one of the show places of Tokio. To the European tourist or
+the visitor from our Eastern States the beauty of the vegetation is a
+source of marvel, but San Francisco's Golden Gate Park can equal
+everything that grows here in the way of ornamental shrubs, trees and
+flowers. On the south side of the park are the Parliament buildings, and
+near by the fine, new brick buildings of the Naval and Judicial
+Departments and the courts. Near by are grouped many of the foreign
+legations, the palaces of princes and the mansions of the Japanese
+officials and foreign embassadors. Here also is the Museum of Arms,
+which is very interesting because of the many specimens of ancient
+Japanese weapons and the trophies of the wars with China and Russia. In
+this museum one may see the profound interest which the Japanese
+pilgrims from all parts of the empire take in these memorials of
+conquest. To them they rank with the sacred shrines as objects of
+veneration.
+
+Not far away is the moat which surrounds the massive walls of the
+imperial palace, open only to those who have the honor of an imperial
+audience. These walls are of granite laid up without mortar, the corner
+stones being of unusual size. The visitor may see the handsome roofs of
+the imperial palaces. Those who have been admitted declare that the
+decorations and the furniture are in the highest style of Japanese art,
+although the simplicity and the neutral colors that mark the Shinto
+temples prevail in the private chambers of the Emperor. In the throne
+chamber and the banquet hall, on the other hand, gold and brilliant hues
+make a blaze of color. Near the palace grounds are the Government
+printing office and a number of schools.
+
+Turning down into Yoken street, one of the great avenues of traffic, you
+soon reach Uyeno Park--the most popular pleasure ground of the capital,
+and famous in the spring for its long lines of cherry trees in full
+blossom. In the autumn it impressed me, as did all the other Japanese
+parks, as rather damp and unwholesome. The ground was saturated from
+recent rain; all the stonework was covered with moss and lichen; the
+trees dripped moisture, and the little lakes scattered here and there
+were like those gloomy tarns that Poe loved to paint in his poems. Near
+the entrance to this park is a shallow lake covered with lotus plants,
+and a short distance beyond from a little hill one may get a good view
+of the buildings of the imperial university. Here is a good foreign
+restaurant where one may enjoy a palatable lunch. Near by on a slight
+eminence stands a huge bronze image of Buddha, twenty-one and one-half
+feet high, called the Daibutsu. It is one of several such figures
+scattered over the empire. Passing through a massive granite torii, or
+gate, one reaches an avenue of stately cryptomeria, or cedar trees that
+leads to a row of stone lanterns presented in 1651 by daimyos as a
+memorial to the first shogun. The temple beyond is famous for its
+beautiful lacquer.
+
+Near at hand are the temples and tombs of the six shoguns of the
+Tokugawa family, buried in Uyeno Park. These temples are regarded as
+among the finest remains of old Japanese art. The mortuary temples bear
+a close resemblance to those in Shiba Park. The second temple is the
+finer and is celebrated for the gilding of the interior walls, the
+gorgeous decoration of the shrines and the memorial tablets in gold
+lacquer. Here, also, are eight tablets erected to the memory of eight
+mothers of shoguns, all of whom were concubines.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+         The Yomei-mori Gate, Ieyasu Temple, Nikko.
+  One of the Most Beautiful Gates in all Japan. The Columns
+    Are Painted White, with Capitals of Unicorn's Heads.
+       The Roof is Supported by Gilt Dragon's Heads.]
+
+A short distance from Uyeno Park is the great Buddhist temple known as
+Asakusa Kwannon, dedicated to Kwannon, the goddess of mercy. The
+approaches to this temple on any pleasant day look like a country fair.
+The crowd is so dense that jinrikishas can not approach within one
+hundred yards. The shrine dates back to the sixth century and the temple
+is the most popular resort of its kind in Tokio. On each side of the
+entrance lane are shops, where all kinds of curios, toys, cakes, et
+cetera, are sold. The temple itself is crowded with votaries who offer
+coins to the various idols, while below (near the stairs that give
+entrance to the temple) are various side booths that are patronized by
+worshipers. Some of these gods promise long life; others give
+happiness, and several insure big families to women who offer money and
+say prayers.
+
+One of the remarkable jinrikisha rides in Japan is that from Uyeno to
+Shimbashi station through the heart of Tokio by night. This takes about
+a half hour and it gives a series of pictures of the great Japanese city
+that can be gained in no other way. Here may be seen miles of little
+shops lining alleys not over ten or twelve feet wide, in most of which
+work is going on busily as late as eleven o'clock. In places the sleepy
+proprietors are putting up their shutters, preparatory to going to bed,
+but in others the work of artisan or baker or weaver goes on as though
+the day had only fairly begun. Most of these shops are lighted by
+electricity, but this light is the only modern thing about them. The
+weaver sits at the loom precisely as he sat two thousand years ago, and
+the baker kneads his dough and bakes his cakes precisely as he did
+before the days of the first shogun. This ride gives a panorama of
+oriental life which can be equaled in few cities in the world.
+Occasionally the jinrikisha dashes up a little bank and across a bridge
+that spans a canal and one catches a glimpse of long lines of house
+boats, with dim lights, nestling under overhanging balconies. Overall is
+that penetrating odor of the Far East, mingled with the smell of bilge
+water and the reek of thousands of sweating human beings. These smells
+are of the earth earthy and they led one to dream that night of weird
+and terrible creatures such as De Quincey paints in his _Confessions of
+an English Opium Eater_.
+
+
+THE MOST FAMOUS CITY OF TEMPLES IN ALL JAPAN
+
+The most magnificent temples in Japan are at Nikko, in the mountains,
+five hours' ride by train from Tokio. What makes this trip the more
+enjoyable to the American tourist is that the country reminds him of the
+Catskills, and that he gets some glimpses of primitive Japanese life.
+The Japanese have a proverb: "Do not use the word 'magnificent' until
+you have seen Nikko." And anyone who goes through the three splendid
+temples that serve as memorials of the early shoguns will agree that the
+proverb is true.
+
+The railroad ride to Nikko is tedious, although it furnishes greater
+variety than most of the other trips by rail through the Mikado's
+empire. But as soon as one is landed at the little station he recognizes
+that here is a place unlike any that he has seen. The road runs up a
+steep hill to the Kanaya Hotel, which is perched on a high bank
+overlooking the Daiyagawa river. Tall cedar trees clothe the banks, and
+across the river rise mountains, with the roofs of temples showing
+through the foliage at their base. This hotel is gratefully remembered
+by all tourists because of the artistic decoration of the rooms in
+Japanese style and the beneficent care of the proprietor, which includes
+a pretty kimono to wear to the morning bath, with straw sandals for the
+feet, and charming waitresses in picturesque costumes.
+
+The first Buddhist temple at Nikko dates back to the eighth century, but
+it was not until the seventeenth century that the place was made a
+national shrine by building here the mausoleum of the first shogun,
+Ieyasu, and of his grandson, Iemitsu. Hardly less noteworthy than these
+shrines and temples is the great avenue of giant cryptomeria trees,
+which stretches across the country for twenty miles, from Nikko to
+Utsunomiya.
+
+One of the chief objects of interest in Nikko is the Sacred Red Bridge
+which spans a swift stream about forty feet wide. This is a new bridge,
+as the old one was carried away by a great flood nine years ago.
+Originally built in 1638, it served to commemorate the legendary and
+miraculous bridging of the stream by Shodo Shonin, a saint. He arrived
+at the river one day while on a pilgrimage and called aloud for aid to
+cross. On the opposite bank appeared a being of gigantic size, who
+promised to help him, and at once flung across the stream two green and
+blue dragons which formed a bridge. When the saint was safely over the
+bridge, it vanished with the mysterious being. Shodo at once built a hut
+on the banks of the stream. For fourteen years he dwelt there and
+gathered many disciples. Then he established a monastery and a shrine at
+Lake Chuzinji, about nine miles from Nikko. Nine hundred years later the
+second shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty sent two officials to Nikko to
+select a site for the mausoleum of his father. They chose a site near
+Nikko, on a hill called Hotoke-iwa, and in the spring of 1617 the tomb
+was completed and the coffin was deposited under it with appropriate
+Buddhist ceremonies.
+
+The road to the mausoleum winds around the river. The first object on
+the way is a pillar erected in 1643 to ward off evil influences. It is
+a cylindrical copper column forty-two feet high, supported by short
+horizontal bars of the same material, resting on four short columns.
+Small bells hung from lotus-shaped cups crown the summit of the column.
+Just beyond this column is a massive granite torii, twenty-seven and
+one-half feet high, the gift of the Daimiyo of Chikuzen. To the left is
+a five-story pagoda, one hundred and four feet in height, which is
+especially graceful. Inside a red wooden wall are arranged a series of
+lacquered storehouses, a holy water cistern cut out of a solid block of
+granite, a finely decorated building in which rest a collection of
+Buddhist writings. A second court is reached by a flight of stairs. Here
+are gifts presented by the kings of Luchu, Holland and Korea, these
+three countries being regarded as vassal states of Japan. On the left is
+the Temple of Yahushi, beautifully decorated in red and gold lacquer,
+and just beyond is a fine gate, called Yomei-mon, decorated with
+medallions of birds. Passing through this gate, one reaches a court
+bordered by several small buildings, one of which contains the
+palanquins that are carried in the annual procession on June 1st, when
+the deified spirits of the first shogun, Hideyoshi (the great
+conqueror), and Yoritomo occupy them. Seventy-five men carry each of
+these palanquins.
+
+The main shrines are reached through the Chinese gate. The three
+chambers are magnificent specimens of the finest work in lacquer, gold
+and metal. The tomb of Ieyasu, the first shogun, is reached by ascending
+two hundred stone steps. The tomb is in the form of a small pagoda of
+bronze of an unusually light color caused by the mixture of gold. The
+body of the shogun is buried twenty feet deep in a bed of charcoal.
+Beyond is the mausoleum of Iemitsu, the third shogun. The oratory and
+chapel are richly decorated, but they do not compare with those of the
+first shogun's tomb. Back of these tombs, among the huge cedar trees
+that clothe the sides of the mountain, is a small red shrine where women
+offer little pieces of wood that they may pass safely through the
+dangers of childbirth. Near by is the tomb of Shodo, the saint, and
+three of his disciples.
+
+These mortuary temples and tombs are genuinely impressive. They bear
+many signs of age and it is evident that they are held in great
+veneration by the Japanese, who make pilgrimages at all seasons to offer
+up prayers at these sacred shrines. More impressive than the tombs
+themselves are the pilgrims. On the day that I visited this sacred
+shrine several large bands of pilgrims were entertained. One party was
+composed of over a hundred boys from one of the big government military
+schools. These lads were in uniform and each carried an umbrella and a
+lunch tied up in a handkerchief. The priests paid special attention to
+these young pilgrims and described for their benefit the marvels of
+carving and lacquer work. Services were held before the shrines and the
+glorious conquest of the shoguns and of Hideyoshi (popularly known as
+the Napoleon of Japan) were described in glowing words. The Russian
+cannon captured at Port Arthur, which stands near the entrance to the
+tombs, was not forgotten by these priests, who never fail to do their
+part in stimulating the patriotism of the young pilgrims.
+
+These boys were followed by an equal number of public school girls, all
+dressed in dark red merino skirts and kimonos of various colors. Some
+were without stockings and none wore any head covering, although each
+girl carried her lunch and the inevitable umbrella.
+
+After these children came several parties of mature pilgrims, some
+finely dressed and bearing every evidence of wealth and position, while
+others were clothed in poor garments and showed great deference to the
+priests and guides. All revealed genuine veneration for the sacred
+relics and all contributed according to their means to the various
+shrines. Some idea of the revenue drawn by the priests from tourists and
+pilgrims may be gained when it is said that admission is seventy sen (or
+thirty-five cents in American money) for each person, with half-rates to
+priests, teachers and school children, and to members of parties
+numbering one hundred.
+
+The shops at Nikko will be found well worth a visit, as this city is the
+market for many kinds of furs that are scarce in America. Many fine
+specimens of wood carving may also be seen in the shops. The main street
+of the town runs from the Kanaya Hotel to the railroad depot, a distance
+of a mile and one-half, and it is lined for nearly the whole distance
+with small shops.
+
+On his return to the railroad the tourist would do well to take a
+jinrikisha ride of five miles down through the great avenue of old
+cryptomeria trees to the little station of Imaichi. This is one of the
+most beautiful rides in the world. The road is bordered on each side by
+huge cedar trees which are from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
+feet in height. In many cases the roots of these old trees have formed a
+natural embankment and the road is thus forced below the level of the
+surrounding rice fields. These trees were planted nearly three hundred
+years ago and they are certainly in a remarkable state of preservation.
+A few gaps there are, due to the vandalism of the country people, but
+mile after mile is passed with only an occasional break in these
+stately columns, crowned by the deep green masses of foliage. Another
+cryptomeria avenue intersects this and runs for twenty-five miles across
+the country. The two avenues were planted in order that they might be
+used by the shogun's messengers when they bore important letters to him
+during his summer residence in Nara.
+
+
+IN KYOTO, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF JAPAN
+
+Next to Nikko, one of the most interesting cities in Japan is Kyoto, the
+old capital under the shoguns, the seat of several fine palaces and many
+beautiful temples, and the center of large manufacturing works of
+satsuma and cloissone ware, damascene work and art work on silk and
+velvet. Kyoto may be reached by a short ride from Kobe, but from Tokio
+it is an all-day trip of twelve hours by express train. This ride, which
+would be comfortable in well appointed cars, is made tedious by the
+Japanese preference for cars with seats arranged along the side, like
+the new American pay-as-you-enter street cars. For a short ride the side
+seat may be endured, but for hours of travel (especially when one is a
+tourist and wishes to see the scenery on both sides of the road) the
+cars are extremely tiresome.
+
+By selecting the express train and buying first-class tickets it was
+hoped to avoid any crowd but, unfortunately, the day chosen saw many
+other tourists on their way across Japan. The result was that the
+first-class car was packed and many who had paid first-class fares were
+forced to ride in the second-class cars. In my car one side was occupied
+almost wholly by Japanese. Two were in American dress, one was an army
+officer in uniform, another a clerk with many packages, and the
+remaining two were an old couple, richly dressed. The Japanese, in
+traveling first-class, generally brings a rug or fur, which he spreads
+over the seat. On this he sits with his feet drawn up under him in the
+national style. Smoking is not prohibited even in the first-class cars,
+so that the American ladies in the cars had to endure the smell of
+various kinds of Japanese tobacco, in addition to the heat, which was
+rendered more disagreeable by the frequent closing of the windows as the
+train dashed through many tunnels. The old couple carried lunch in
+several hampers and they indulged in a very elaborate luncheon, helped
+out by tea purchased in little pots from a dealer at a station. The army
+officer bought one of the small wooden lunch boxes sold along all
+Japanese railways, which contain boiled rice, fried fish and some boiled
+sweet potatoes. This, with a pot of tea, made a good lunch. The Japanese
+in European costume patronized the dining-car, where an excellent lunch
+was served for one yen, or fifty cents in American money.
+
+The scenery along the line of the railway varied. The road skirts the
+coast for many miles, then cuts across several mountain ranges to
+Nagoya, then along the shores of Owari bay (an arm of the ocean), thence
+across the country to the lower end of Lake Biwa, near which Kyoto is
+situated. In the old days this journey consumed twelve days, and the
+road twice every year furnished a picturesque procession of the retinues
+of great nobles or daimiyos traveling from Kyoto to Tokio to present
+their respects to the shogun. The road was skirted by great cryptomeria,
+and avenues of these fine trees may still be seen near Nikko.
+
+Kyoto was a great city in medieval days, when it was the residence of
+the Mikado. From 793 until 1868, when the court removed to Tokio, Kyoto
+remained the capital. Its importance, however, began to decline with
+the founding of Yedo, or Tokio, in 1590, and to-day many miles of its
+former streets are devoted to the growing of rice. In this way several
+of the finest temples, which were once in the heart of the old city, are
+now relegated to the suburbs. Besides the Mikado's palace and Nijo
+castle, which may be visited only by special permit, Kyoto boasts of an
+unusual number of richly decorated temples, among which the most
+noteworthy are the Shinto temple of Inari; the temple of the one
+thousand images of Kwannon, the Deity of Mercy; the great Buddhist
+temple of Nishi-Honguanji, celebrated for its art work in paintings and
+decorated woods; the great bronze Buddha, fifty-eight feet high; the big
+bell near by, nearly fourteen feet high, and the other in the Cheon-in
+temple here--these being two of the four largest bells in all Japan. To
+describe the treasures in art and decoration, in gold and lacquer, in
+these palaces, would be tiresome. Unless one is a student of Japanese
+art the visiting of temples soon becomes a great bore, for one temple or
+one palace is a repetition of others already seen, with merely minor
+differences in architecture and decoration, which appeal only to the
+specialist.
+
+Kyoto, however, is of great interest for its many art shops--since
+applied art, as seen in satsuma and cloissone ware and in damascene,
+have almost reached the level of pure art. A visit to one of the satsuma
+factories is an interesting experience, as it shows how little the art
+of Japan has been influenced by the foreigner. Here one sees the potter
+at his wheel, precisely as in the days of the Bible. He does not avail
+himself of electric power but whirls his wheel by hand and foot, exactly
+as in the time of Christ. Passing from the pottery to the art rooms, one
+finds a number of Japanese men and girls painting elaborate designs on
+bowls and vases and other articles. These artists grind and mix their
+own oil colors, which they proceed to lay on slowly upon the article
+they are decorating. The patience of these artists is indescribable.
+Infinite pains is taken with a single flower or tree or figure of man or
+bird. One vase exhibited here is covered with butterflies which range
+from natural size down to figures so small that they can be discerned
+only under a magnifying glass. Yet, this vase, which represents such an
+enormous outlay of labor and time, is sold at thirty dollars in American
+money.
+
+At the damascene works both men and women are also employed, although
+the finest work is done by the men. The art consists in beating into
+bronze small particles of gold leaf until they have become an actual
+part of the baser metal. This gold is arranged in a great variety of
+design and, after being beaten in, the article is subjected to powerful
+heat, which oxidizes the metal and thus prevents any change due to the
+weather. At this Kyoto factory were turned out the most artistic
+jewelry, boxes, cigarette cases and a great variety of small articles,
+many of which sold at absurdly low prices, considering the amount of
+labor and time expended on them.
+
+Kyoto will be found one of the best cities in Japan for the purchase of
+the art work just described, as well as embroidery, silks and other
+stuffs. In many of these shops the work is done on the premises and
+hence the prices are cheaper than in any other city except Yokohama. It
+is worth while to visit the shops that exhibit bronze work, silks,
+velvets and carvings in ivory and wood, as well as curios of many kinds.
+Most of these shopkeepers demand more than they expect to receive, but
+in a few shops the goods are plainly marked and no reduction in price
+can be secured. At Kyoto the tourist will find many traces of primitive
+Japanese life, especially in the unfrequented streets and in the
+suburbs. Here in the bed of the river, a portion of which was being
+walled up for a canal, were employed a dozen women digging up gravel and
+carrying it in baskets to carts near by. They had their skirts tied up
+and they were working in mud and water which reached to their knees. It
+was not a pleasant spectacle, but it excited no comment in this country,
+where women labor in the rice fields by the side of men.
+
+A short ride from Kyoto brings the visitor to Nara, the seat of the
+oldest temples in Japan, and famous for the tame deer in the park. A
+long avenue of stone lanterns leads to the principal temples, in an
+ancient cedar grove. The main temple gives an impression of great age by
+its heavy thatched roof.
+
+Next looms up the gigantic wooden structure, which houses Daibutsa, the
+great bronze image of Buddha. This statue, which dates back to the
+eighth century, is fifty-three and one-quarter feet high; the face is
+sixteen feet long and nine and one-quarter feet wide. The god is in a
+sitting position, with the legs crossed. The head, which is darker than
+the remainder of the image, replaced in the sixteenth century the
+original head destroyed by fire. The expression of this Buddha is not
+benignant, and the image is impressive only because of its size. It has
+two images eighteen feet in height on either hand, but these seemed
+dwarfed by the huge central figure.
+
+The park at Nara is very interesting, because of the tame deer which
+have no fear of the stranger in European dress, but will eat cakes from
+his hand. One of the sources of revenue is to sell these cakes to the
+tourist.
+
+A visit was paid to an old temple at Horyuji, about eight miles from
+Nara, which is famous as the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan. It
+contains a valuable collection of ancient Japanese works of art. The
+rickshaw ride to this place is of great interest, as the road passes
+through a rich farming country and two small towns which seem to have
+been little affected by European influence. In the fertile valley below
+Nara rice is grown on an extensive scale, these paddy fields being
+veritable swamps which can be crossed only by high paths running through
+them, at distances of thirty or forty feet. Here also may be seen the
+curious method of trellising orchards of pear trees with bamboo poles.
+The trellis supports the upper branches and this prevents them from
+breaking down under the weight of fruit, while it also makes easy the
+picking of fruit. Agriculture at its best is seen in this fertile
+Japanese valley. One peculiarity of this country, as of other parts of
+rural Japan, is that one sees none of the scattered farmhouses which dot
+every American farming section. Instead of building on his own land the
+farmer lives in a village to which he returns at night after his day's
+work.
+
+
+KOBE, OSAKA, THE INLAND SEA AND NAGASAKI
+
+Kobe is regarded as a base for the tourist who wishes to make short
+excursions to Kyoto, Osaka and other cities. It was established as a
+foreign settlement in 1868, and has grown so remarkably during the last
+ten years that now it exceeds in imports and exports any other city in
+Japan. Kobe is one of the most attractive cities in the empire, being
+built on a pretty harbor, with the land rising like an amphitheater.
+Scores of handsome residences are scattered over the foothills near the
+sea. Those on the lower side of the streets that run parallel to the
+harbor have gardens walled up on the rear, while the houses on the upper
+side of the streets have massive retaining walls. These give opportunity
+for many ornamental gateways.
+
+Kobe has many large government schools, but the institutions which I
+found of greatest interest were Kobe College for Women, conducted by
+Miss Searle, and the Glory Kindergarten, under the management of Miss
+Howe. Kobe College, which was founded over thirty years ago, is
+maintained by the Women's Board of Missions of Chicago. It has two
+hundred and twenty-five pupils, of whom all except about fifty are
+lodged and boarded on the premises. I heard several of the classes
+reciting in English. The primary class in English read simple sentences
+from a blackboard and answered questions put by the teacher. A few
+spoke good English, but the great majority failed to open their mouths,
+and the result was the indistinct enunciation that is so trying to
+understand. Another class was reading _Hamlet_, but the pupils made sad
+work of Shakespeare's verse. The Japanese reading of English is always
+monotonous, because their own language admits of no emphasis; so their
+use of English is no more strange than our attempts at Japanese, in
+which we employ emphasis that excites the ridicule of the Mikado's
+subjects.
+
+Not far from this college is the kintergarten, which Miss Howe has
+carried on for twenty-four years. She takes little tots of three or four
+years of age and trains them in Froebel's methods. So successful has she
+been in her work among these children of the best Japanese families of
+Kobe that she has a large waiting list. She has also trained many
+Japanese girls in kintergarten work. All the children at this school
+looked unusually bright, as they are drawn from the educated classes. It
+sounded very strange to hear American and English lullabies being
+chanted by these tots in the unfamiliar Japanese words.
+
+Osaka, the chief manufacturing city of Japan, is only about
+three-quarters of an hour's ride from Kobe. It spreads over nine miles
+square and lies on both sides of the Yodogawa river. The most
+interesting thing in Osaka is the castle built by Hideyoshi, the
+Napoleon of Japan, in 1583. The strong wall was once surrounded by a
+deep moat and an outer wall, which made it practically impregnable. What
+will surprise anyone is the massive character of the inner walls which
+remain. Here are blocks of solid granite, many of them measuring forty
+feet in length by ten feet in height. It must have required a small army
+of men to place these stones in position, but so well was this work
+done (without the aid of any mortar) that the stones have remained in
+place during all these years. From the summit of the upper wall a superb
+view may be gained of the surrounding country.
+
+From Kobe the tourist makes the trip through the Inland Sea by steamer.
+Its length is about two hundred and forty miles and its greatest width
+is forty miles. The trip through this sea, which in some places narrows
+to a few hundred feet, is deeply interesting. The hills remind a
+Californian strongly of the Marin hills opposite San Francisco, but here
+they are terraced nearly to their summits and are green with rice and
+other crops. Many of the hills are covered with a growth of small cedar
+trees, and these trees lend rare beauty to the various points of land
+that project into the sea. At two places in the sea the steamer seems as
+though she would surely go on the rocks in the narrow channel, but the
+pilot swings her almost within her own length and she turns again into a
+wider arm of the sea. In these narrow channels the tide runs like a mill
+race, and without a pilot (who knows every current) any vessel would be
+in extreme danger. The steamer leaves Kobe about ten o'clock at night
+and reaches Nagasaki, the most western of Japanese cities, about seven
+o'clock the following morning.
+
+Nagasaki in some ways reminds one of Kobe, but the hills are steeper and
+the most striking feature of the town is the massive stone walls that
+support the streets winding around the hills, and the elaborate paving
+of many of these side-hill streets with great blocks of granite. The
+rainfall is heavy at Nagasaki, so we find here a good system of gutters
+to carry off the water. The harbor is pretty and on the opposite shore
+are large engine works, three large docks and a big ship-building
+plant, all belonging to the Mitsu Bishi Company. Here some five thousand
+workmen are constantly employed.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+             The Daibutsu or Great Bronze Buddha
+  at Hyogo, Near Kobe. The Impressive Figure is Forty-eight
+    Feet High and Eighty-five Feet Round the Waist. It is
+         Not so Fine as the Daibutsu at Kamakura But
+                   Surpasses That at Nara]
+
+One of the great industries of Nagasaki is the coaling of Japanese and
+foreign steamships. A very fair kind of steam coal is sold here at three
+dollars a ton, which is less by one dollar and one-half than a poorer
+grade of coal can be bought for in Seattle; hence the steamer Minnesota
+coaled here. The coaling of this huge ship proved to be one of the most
+picturesque sights of her voyage. Early on the morning of her arrival
+lighters containing about a railway carload of coal began to arrive.
+These were arranged in regular rows on both sides of the ship. Then came
+out in big sampans an army of Japanese numbering two thousand in all.
+The leaders arranged ladders against the sides of the ship, and up these
+swarmed this army of workers, three-quarters of whom were young girls
+between fourteen and eighteen years old. They were dressed in all
+colors, but most of them wore a native bonnet tied about the ears. They
+formed in line on the stairs and then the coal was passed along from
+hand to hand until it reached the bunkers. These baskets held a little
+over a peck of coal, and the rapidity with which they moved along this
+living line was startling.
+
+Every few minutes the line was given a breathing space, but the work
+went on with a deadly regularity that made the observer tired to watch
+it. Occasionally one of the young girls would flag in her work and,
+after she dropped a few basketfuls, she would be relieved and put at the
+lighter work of throwing the empty baskets back into the lighters. Most
+of these girls, however, remained ten hours at this laborious work, and
+a few worked through from seven o'clock in the morning until nearly
+midnight, when the last basket of coal was put on board. At work like
+this no such force of Europeans would have shown the same self-control
+and constant courtesy which these Japanese exhibited. Wranglings would
+have been inevitable, and the strong workers would have shown little
+regard for their weaker companions.
+
+Another feature of this Japanese work was the elimination of any strain
+or overexertion. If a girl failed to catch a basket as it whirled along
+the line she dropped it instantly. Never did I see anyone reach over or
+strain to do her work.
+
+The rest for lunch occupied only about fifteen minutes, the begrimed
+workers sitting down on the steps of the ladders and eating their simple
+food with keen relish. At night when strong electric lights cast their
+glare over these constantly moving lines of figures the effect was
+almost grotesque, reminding one of Gustave Dore's terrible pictures of
+the lost souls in torment, or of the scramble to escape when the deluge
+came. The skill that comes of long practice marked the movements of all
+these workers, and it was rare that any basket was dropped by an awkward
+or tired coal-passer.
+
+In seventeen hours four thousand five hundred tons of coal were loaded
+on the steamer. About fifteen hundred people were working on the various
+ladders, while another five hundred were employed in trimming the coal
+in the hold and in managing the various boats. The result was an exhibit
+of what can be done by primitive methods when perfect co-operation is
+secured.
+
+Nagasaki itself has little that will interest the tourist but a ride or
+walk to Mogi, on an arm of the ocean, five miles away, may be taken with
+profit. The road passes over a high divide and, as it runs through a
+farming country, one is able to see here (more perfectly than in any
+other part of Japan) how carefully every acre of tillable land is
+cultivated. On both sides of this road from Nagasaki to the fishing
+village of Mogi were fields enclosed by permanent walls of stone, such
+as would be built in America only to sustain a house. In many cases the
+ground protected by this wall was not over half an acre in extent, and
+in some cases the fields were of smaller size. Tier after tier of these
+walls extended up the sides of the steep hills. The effect at a little
+distance was startling, as the whole landscape seemed artificial. The
+result of this series of walls was to make a succession of little mesas
+or benches such as may be seen in southern California.
+
+
+DEVELOPMENT OF THE JAPANESE SENSE OF BEAUTY
+
+After a trip through Japan the question that confronts the observant
+tourist is: What has preserved the fine artistic sense of the Japanese
+people of all classes, in the face of the materialist influences that
+have come into their life with the introduction of Western methods of
+thought and of business? The most careless traveler has it thrust upon
+him that here is a people artistic to the tips of their fingers, and
+with childlike power of idealization, although they have been forced to
+engage in the fierce warfare of modern business competition. What is it
+that has kept them unspotted from the world of business? What secret
+source of spiritual force have they been able to draw upon to keep fresh
+and dewy this eager, artistic sense that must be developed with so much
+labor among any Western people?
+
+The answer to these questions is found, by several shrewd observers, in
+the Japanese devotion to their gardens. Every Japanese, no matter how
+small and poor his house, has a garden to which he may retire and
+"invite his soul." These Japanese gardens are unique and are found in no
+other land. China has the nearest approach to them, but the poor Chinese
+never dreams of spending time and money in the development of a garden,
+such as the Japanese in similar circumstances regards as a necessity.
+And these Japanese gardens are always made to conform to the house and
+its architecture. The two never fail to fit and harmonize. A poor man
+may have only a square of ground no larger than a few feet, but he will
+so arrange it as to give it an appearance of spaciousness, while the
+more elaborate gardens are laid out so as to give the impression of
+unlimited extent. The end of the garden appears to melt into the
+horizon, and the owner has a background that extends for miles into the
+country. By the artistic use of stones and dwarf plants, a few square
+feet of ground are made to give the effect of liberal space and, with
+bridges, moss-covered stones, ponds, gold fish and other features, a
+perfect illusion of the country may be produced.
+
+Into this garden the master of the house retires after the work of the
+day. There he takes none of his business or professional cares. He gives
+himself wholly to the contemplation of Nature. He becomes for the time
+as a little child, and his soul is pleased with childish things. For him
+this garden, with its pretty outlook on a larger world, serves as the
+boundary of the universe. Here he may dream of the legends of the
+Samurai, before Japan fell under the evil influence of the new God of
+Gain. Here he may indulge in the day-dreams that have always been a part
+of the national consciousness. Here, in fine, he may get closer to the
+real heart of Nature than any Occidental can ever hope to reach.
+
+It is this capacity to get close to Nature that the Japanese possess
+beyond any other Oriental people--and this capacity is not limited to
+those of means or leisure or education. The poor man, who has a daily
+struggle to get enough rice to satisfy his moderate wants, is as open to
+these influences as the rich man who is not worried by any material
+wants. There is no distinction of classes in this universal worship of
+beauty--this passion for all that is lovely in nature. It was not my
+good fortune to be in Japan at the time of the cherry-blossom
+festival--but these fetes merely serve to bring out this national
+passion for beauty and color, which finds expression not only in the
+gardens throughout the empire but in painting, drawing and in working on
+silks and other fabrics. The same instinctive art sense is seen in the
+work of the cabinet-maker and even in the designs of gateways and the
+doors of houses. The eye and the hand of the common worker in wood and
+metal is as sure as the hand of the great artist. Such is the influence
+of this constant study of beauty in nature and art.
+
+When you watch a busy Japanese artisan you get a good idea of the spirit
+that animates his work. He regards himself as an artist, and he shows
+the same sureness of hand and the same sense of form and color as the
+designer in colors or the painter of portraits or landscapes. All the
+beautiful gateways or torii, as they are called, are works of art. They
+have one stereotyped form, but the artists embellish these in many ways
+and the result is that every entrance to a large estate or a public
+ground is pleasing to the eye. As these gateways are generally lacquered
+in black or red or gold, they add much to the beauty and color of each
+scene. The ornamental lattice over nearly every door also adds
+enormously to the effectiveness of even a simple interior.
+
+Watch a worker on cloissone enamel and you will be amazed at the
+rapidity and the accuracy with which he paints designs on this beautiful
+ware. Without any pattern he proceeds to sketch with his brush an
+intricate design of flowers, birds or insects, and he develops this with
+an unerring touch that is little short of marvelous, when one considers
+that he has never had any regular training in drawing but has grown up
+in the shop and has gained all his skill from watching and imitating the
+work of his master on the bench at his side. One day in Kyoto I watched
+a mere boy gradually develop a beautiful design of several hundred
+butterflies gradually becoming smaller and smaller until they vanished
+at the top of the vase. What he proposed to make of this was shown in a
+finished design that was exquisite in the gradation of form and color.
+The same skill of hand and eye was seen in the shops of Kyoto where
+damascene ware is made. Gold and silver is hammered into steel and other
+metals, so that the intricate designs actually seem to become a part of
+the metal. In carving in wood the Japanese excel, and in such places as
+Nikko and Nara the tourist may pick up the most elaborate carvings at
+absurdly low prices.
+
+
+CONCLUSIONS ON JAPANESE LIFE AND CHARACTER
+
+In summing up one's observations of Japanese life and character, after a
+brief trip across the empire, it is necessary to exercise much care and
+not to take the accidental for the ordinary incidents of life.
+Generalizations from such observations on a hurried journey are
+especially deadly. To guard against such error I talked with many
+people, and the conclusions given here are drawn from the radically
+different views of missionaries, merchants, steamship agents, bankers
+and others. Generous allowance must be made for the prejudices of each
+class, but even then the forming of any conclusions is difficult. This
+is due largely to the fact that the Japanese a half-century ago were
+mediaeval in life and thought, and that the remarkable advances which
+they have made in material and intellectual affairs have been crowded
+into a little more than the life of two generations.
+
+The most common charge made against the Japanese as a race is that their
+standard of commercial morality is low as compared with that of the
+Chinese. The favorite instance, which is generally cited by those who do
+not like the Japanese, is that all the big banks in Japan employ Chinese
+shroffs or cashiers, who handle all the money, as Japanese cashiers
+cannot be trusted. This ancient fiction should have died a natural
+death, but it seems as though it bears a charmed life, although its
+untruth has been repeatedly exposed by the best authorities on Japan.
+
+The big foreign banks in all the large Japanese cities do employ Chinese
+shroffs, because these men are most expert in handling foreign money and
+because they usually have a large acquaintance all along the Chinese
+coast among the clients of the banks. The large Japanese banks, on the
+other hand, employ Japanese in all positions of trust and authority, as
+do all the smaller banks throughout the empire. Many of the cashiers of
+these smaller banks understand English, particularly those that have
+dealings with foreigners. At a native bank in Kobe, which was Cook's
+correspondent in that city, I cashed several money orders, and the work
+was done as speedily as it would have been done in any American bank.
+The fittings of the bank were very cheap; the office force was small,
+but the cashier spoke excellent English and he transacted business
+accurately and speedily.
+
+In making any generalizations on the lack of rigid commercial honesty
+among Japanese merchants it may be well for me to quote the opinion of
+an eminent American educator who has spent over forty years in Japan. He
+said, in discussing this subject: "We must always consider the training
+of the Japanese before their country was thrown open to foreign trade.
+For years the nation had been ruled by men of the Samurai or military
+class, with a rigid code of honor, but with a great contempt for trade
+and tradesmen. Naturally business fell into the hands of the lower
+classes who did not share the keen sense of honor so general among their
+rulers. Hence, there grew up lax ideas of commercial morality, which
+were fostered by the carelessness in money matters among the nobility
+and aristocracy. Much of the prevalent Japanese inability to refrain
+from overcharging, or delivering an inferior article to that shown to
+the customer, dates back to these days of feudal life. The years of
+contact with the foreigners have been too few to change the habits of
+centuries. Another thing which must always be considered is the relation
+of master and vassal under feudal life. That relation led to peculiar
+customs. Thus, if an artisan engaged to build a house for his overlord
+he would give a general estimate, but if the cost exceeded the sum he
+named, he expected his master to make up the deficit. This custom has
+been carried over into the new regime, so that the Japanese merchant or
+mechanic of to-day, although he may make a formal contract, does not
+expect to be bound by it, or to lose money should the price of raw
+material advance, or should he find that any building operations have
+cost more than his original estimate. In such case the man who orders
+manufactured goods or signs a contract for any building operations seems
+to recognize that equity requires him to pay more than was stipulated in
+the bond. When Japanese deal with Japanese this custom is generally
+observed. It is only the foreigner who expects the Japanese to fulfill
+his contract to the letter, and it is the attempt to enforce such
+contracts which gives the foreign merchant his poor opinion of Japanese
+commercial honesty. In time, when the Japanese have learned that they
+must abide by written contracts, these complaints will be heard no
+longer. The present slipshod methods are due to faulty business customs,
+the outgrowth of the old Samurai contempt for trade in any form."
+
+In dealing with small Japanese merchants in various cities, it was my
+experience that they are as honest as similar dealers in other
+countries. Usually they demanded about one-half more than they expected
+to receive. Then they made reductions and finally a basis of value was
+agreed upon. This chaffering seems to be a part of their system; but the
+merchants and manufacturers who are brought most often into contact with
+Europeans are coming to have a fixed price for all their goods, on which
+they will give from ten to twenty per cent. reduction, according to the
+amount of purchases. One manufacturer in Kyoto who sold his own goods
+would make no reduction, except in the case of some samples that he was
+eager to sell. His goods were all plainly marked and he calmly allowed
+tourists to leave his store rather than make any cut in his prices. The
+pains and care which the Japanese dealer will take to please his
+customer is something which might be imitated with profit by foreign
+dealers.
+
+A question that is very frequently put is, "What has been the influence
+of Christianity upon Japanese life and thought?" This is extremely
+difficult to answer, because even those who are engaged in missionary
+work are not always in accord in their views. One missionary of thirty
+years' experience said: "The most noteworthy feature of religious work
+in Japan is the number of prominent Japanese who have become converts to
+Christianity. The new Premier, who is very familiar with life in the
+United States, may be cited as one of these converts. Such a man in his
+position of power will be able to do much to help the missionaries. The
+usual charge that Japanese embrace Christianity in order to learn
+English without expense falls to the ground before actual personal
+experience. The converts always seemed to me to be as sincere as
+converts in China or Corea, but it must be admitted that the strong
+materialist bent of modern Japanese education and thought is making it
+more difficult to appeal to the present generation."
+
+An educator who has had much experience with Japanese said: "It looks to
+me as though Japan would soon reach a grave crisis in national life.
+Hitherto Buddhism and Shintoism have been the two forces that have
+preserved the religious faith of the people and kept their patriotism at
+white heat. Now the influences in the public schools are all
+antagonistic to any religious belief. The young men and women are
+growing up (both in the public schools and the government colleges) to
+have a contempt for all the old religious beliefs. They cannot accept
+the Shinto creed that the Emperor is the son of God and should be
+worshiped as a deity by all loyal Japanese. They cannot accept the
+doctrines of Buddha, as they see the New Japan giving the lie to these
+doctrines every day in its home and international dealings. Nothing is
+left but atheism, and the experience of the world proves that there is
+nothing more dangerous to a nation than the loss of its religious faith.
+The women of Japan are slower to accept these new materialist views than
+the men, but the general breaking down of the old faith is something
+which no foreign resident of Japan can fail to see. On the other side
+patriotism is kept alive by the pilgrimages of school children to the
+national shrines, but one is confronted with the questions? Will the
+boys and girls of a few years hence regard these shrines with any
+devotion when they know that Buddhism and Shintoism are founded on a
+faith that science declares has no foundation? Will they offer up money
+and homage to wooden images which their cultivated reason tells them are
+no more worthy of worship than the telegraph poles along the lines of
+the railway?'"
+
+The Japanese way of doing things is the exact reverse of the American
+way generally, but if one studies the methods of this Oriental race it
+will be found that their way is frequently most effective. Thus, in
+addressing letters they always put the city first, then the street
+address and finally the number, while they never fail to put the
+writer's name and address on the reverse of the envelope, which saves
+the postoffice employes much trouble and practically eliminates the
+dead-letter office.
+
+The Japanese sampan, as well as other boats, is never painted, but it is
+always scrubbed clean. The sampan has a sharp bow and a wide, square
+stern, and navigators say it will live in a sea which would swamp the
+ordinary Whitehall boat of our water-front. The Japanese oar is long and
+looks unwieldy, being spliced together in the middle. It is balanced on
+a short wooden peg on the gunwale and the oarsman works it like a sweep,
+standing up and bending over it at each stroke. The result is a sculling
+motion, which carries the boat forward very rapidly. In no Japanese
+harbor do the big steamships come up to the wharf. They drop anchor in
+the harbor, and they are always surrounded by small sampans, the owners
+of which are eager to take passengers ashore for about twenty-five cents
+each. All cargo is taken aboard by lighters or unloaded in the same way.
+These lighters hold as much as a railroad freight car.
+
+The fishing boats of Japan add much to the picturesqueness of all the
+harbors, as they have sails arranged in narrow strips laced to bamboo
+poles, and they may be drawn up and lowered like the curtains in an
+American shop window. Whether square or triangular, these sails have a
+graceful appearance and they are handled far more easily than ours.
+
+The Japanese carpenter, who draws his plane as well as his saw toward
+himself, appears to work in an awkward and ungainly way, but he does as
+fine work as the American cabinet-maker. The beauty of the interior
+woodwork of even the houses of the poorer classes is a constant marvel
+to the tourist. Nothing is ever painted about the Japanese house, so the
+fineness of the grain of the wood is revealed as well as the exquisite
+polish. A specialty of the Japanese carpenter is lattice-work for the
+windows and grill-work for doors. These add very much to the beauty of
+unpretentious houses.
+
+In conclusion it may be said that Japan offers the lover of the
+beautiful an unlimited opportunity to gratify his aesthetic senses. In
+city or country he cannot fail to find on every hand artistic things
+that appeal powerfully to his sense of beauty. Whether in an ancient
+temple or a new home for a poor village artisan, he will see the results
+of the same instinctive sense of the beautiful and the harmonious. The
+lines are always lines of grace, and the colors are always those which
+blend and gratify the eye.
+
+
+WILL THE JAPANESE RETAIN THEIR GOOD TRAITS?
+
+Any thoughtful visitor to Japan must be impressed with the problems that
+confront Japan to-day, owing to the influence of foreign thought and
+customs. This influence is the more to be dreaded because the Japanese
+are so impressionable and so prone to accept anything which they are
+convinced is superior to their own. They have very little of the Chinese
+passion for what has been made sacred by long usage. They have high
+regard for their ancestors, but very little reverence for their customs
+and opinions. This lack of veneration is shown in striking fashion by
+those Japanese students who come to this country to gain an education.
+These young men are as eager as the ancient Athenians for any new thing,
+and when they return to their old homes each is a center of Occidental
+influence. This is frequently not for the best interests of their
+countrymen, who have not had their own opportunities of observation and
+comparison.
+
+The qualities in which the Japanese excel are the very qualities in
+which so many Americans are deficient. Personal courage and loyalty are
+the traits which Professor Scherer, a distinguished expert, regards as
+the fundamental traits of the Japanese character. That these qualities
+have not been weakened materially was shown in the recent war with
+Russia. In that tremendous struggle was demonstrated the power of a
+small nation, in which everyone--men, women and children--were united
+in a passionate devotion to their country. No similar spectacle was
+ever shown in modern history. The men who went cheerfully to certain
+death before Port Arthur revealed no higher loyalty than the wives at
+home who committed suicide that their husbands might not be called upon
+to choose between personal devotion to their family and absolute
+loyalty to the nation. The foreign correspondents, who were on
+two-hundred-and-three-metre hill before Port Arthur, have told of the
+Japanese soldiers in the ranks who tied ropes to their feet in order
+that their comrades might pull their bodies back into the trenches. All
+those who were drafted to make the assaults on the Russian works in
+that awful series of encounters (which make the charge of the Light
+Brigade at Balaklava seem cheap and theatrical) knew they were going to
+certain death. Yet these foreign observers have left on record that the
+only sentiment among those who remained in the trenches was envy that
+they had not been so fortunate as to be selected to show this supreme
+loyalty to their country. General Nogi, who recently committed suicide
+with his wife on the day of the funeral of the late Emperor, had two
+sons dash to this certain death on the bloodstained hill before Port
+Arthur. As commander, he could have assigned them to less dangerous
+positions, but it probably never entered his head to shield his own
+flesh and blood. And the same loyalty that is shown to country is also
+proved in the relation of servant to master. The story of the
+Forty-seven Ronins is too well known to need repetition, but the
+loyalty of these retainers (who slew the man that caused their lord's
+death, although they knew that this deed called for their immediate end
+by their own hands) impresses one with new force when he stands before
+the tombs of these men in the Japanese capital and sees the profound
+reverence in which they are still held by the people of Japan.
+
+What puzzles the foreign observer is: Will this passionate loyalty of
+servant to master survive the spectacle of the ingratitude and
+self-interest which the Japanese see in the relation of master and
+servant in most Christian countries? The whole tendency of life in other
+countries than his own is against this loyalty, which has been bred in
+his very marrow. How long, without the mainstay of religion, will the
+Japanese cling to this outworn but beautiful relic of his old life? And
+it must be confessed that religion is rapidly losing its hold on the men
+of Japan. Those who have been abroad are apt to return home
+freethinkers, because the spectacle of the practical working of
+Christianity is not conducive to faith among so shrewd a people as the
+Japanese. Even the example of the foreigners in Japan is an influence
+that the missionaries regard as prejudicial to Christianity.
+
+Another trait of the Japanese which will not be improved by contact with
+foreigners, and especially with Americans, is thoroughness. This trait
+is seen on every hand in Japan. Nothing is built in a slovenly way,
+whether for private use or for the government. The artisan never scamps
+his work. He seems to have retained the old mechanic's pride in doing
+everything well which he sets his hand to do. This is seen in the
+carving of many works of art, as well as in the building of the
+ornamental gateways throughout the empire, that stand as monuments to
+the aesthetic sense of the people. Yet the whole influence of foreign
+teaching and example is against this thoroughness that is ingrained in
+the Japanese character. The young people cannot fail to see that it
+does not pay their elders to expend so much time and effort to gain
+perfection, when their foreign rivals secure apparently equal if not
+superior results by quick and careless work. It is upon these Japanese
+children that the future of the empire depends. They are sure to be
+infected by these object lessons in the gospel of selfish and careless
+work, which the labor union leaders in our country have preached until
+it has been accepted by the great mass of mechanics.
+
+Another racial quality of the Japanese, which is likely to suffer from
+contact with foreigners, is his politeness. This is innate and not
+acquired; it does not owe any of its force to selfish considerations.
+The traveler in Japan is amazed to see this politeness among all
+classes, just as he sees the artistic impulse flowering among the
+children of rough toilers in the fields. And again the question arises:
+Will the Japanese retain this attractive trait when they come into more
+intimate contact with the foreigner, who believes in courtesy mainly as
+a business asset rather than as a social virtue?
+
+So, in summing up one's impressions of Japan, there comes this
+inevitable doubt of the permanence of the fine qualities which make the
+Japanese nation to-day so distinct from any other. The Japanese may
+differ from all other races in their power of resisting the corrupting
+influences of foreign association, but it is to be feared that the
+visitor to the Mikado's land fifty years from now may not only find no
+Mikado, but none of the peculiarly gracious qualities in the Japanese
+people which to-day set them apart from all other nations.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE I
+
+    Street Scene, Asakusa
+  Park, Tokyo. This Picture
+      Gives a Good Idea
+     of Japanese Street
+      Dress of Men and
+      Women. The Park
+        Contains a
+       Twelve-Story
+        Tower, Two
+     Hundred and Twenty
+      Feet in Height]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE II
+
+  Entrance Hall and Stairway
+        of Modern Home
+   of a Tokyo Millionaire.
+     Note the Priceless
+        Screens With
+  Cherry-Blossom Decoration,
+  the Bronze Stair Railings
+    and the Inlaid Floor]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE III
+
+   Bronze Lanterns and
+  Sacred Fountain, Shiba
+   Temple, Tokyo. These
+  Temples in Shiba Park
+  Are Among the Marvels
+       of Japanese
+           Art]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE IV
+
+    Sacred Red Bridge at
+   Nikko. Legend Says It
+  Was Built for the Saint
+     Shodo Shonin. No
+   One Crossed It Except
+    the Shoguns and in
+     Modern Times the
+      Mikado. General
+     Grant Was Given a
+    Permit to Cross This
+    Bridge, but Sensibly
+     Refused to Use It]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE V
+
+       Avenue of Cryptomeria to Futaaru Temple, Nikko.
+  This Picture Gives a Good Idea of the Effectiveness of the
+       Tori or Gate, of Black or Red Lacquer or Natural
+              Wood, Which Stands at the Entrance
+                  to Most Parks and Temples]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VI
+
+      Avenue of Cryptomeria Trees, near Nikko.
+  This Splendid Avenue, Lined with Huge Cedar Trees
+      from One Hundred and Fifty to Two Hundred
+       Feet in Height, Extends for Five Miles
+                from Nikko to Imaichi]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VII
+
+              Great Bronze Torii, Nikko.
+          These Torii or Gates Form the Most
+  Characteristic Feature of Japanese Landscapes. They
+          Are Always of the Same Pattern But
+          Infinite in Variety of Decoration]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE VIII
+
+    Stone Lanterns, Kasuga Temple Park, Nara.
+  A Remarkable Collection of Lanterns Which Line
+    the Avenue Leading to the Temple. In This
+        Park Many Tame Deer Wander, Their
+           Horns Being Cut Once a Year
+                    in October]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE IX
+
+               Religious Procession, Kyoto.
+      This Gives a Good Idea of a Familiar Sight in
+  all Japanese Cities. Many of the Standards Carried in
+          These Processions are Very Beautiful,
+                  With Silk Streamers of
+                       Many Colors]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE X
+
+  Scene on Canal, Kyoto.
+    None of the Houses
+   That Line This Canal
+  Are Elaborate, But All
+  Have Balconies Adorned
+   With Dwarf Trees and
+    Plants in Pots of
+   Many Colors. This Is
+     One of the Most
+  Picturesque Scenes in
+       All Japan]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XI
+
+    Street Scene in Kobe.
+     This View Shows the
+    Low Two-Story Houses,
+      With Overhanging
+   Balconies, the Enormous
+      Gilded Signs and
+     the Absence of All
+    Horses in the Street.
+     This Street Scene Is
+   Typical of All Japanese
+           Cities]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XII
+
+    A Group of Japanese
+     Schoolboys. These
+  Faces, Full of Life and
+   Mischief, Are Typical
+   of Young Japan. About
+  the Only Faces in Japan
+    Free From Lines of
+     Care Are Those of
+   School Children. When
+   Over Sixteen the Face
+  of the Japanese Becomes
+   a Mask Which Conceals
+       All Emotions]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIII
+
+    Japanese Peasant Group by the Roadside.
+  These Country People Show Keen Curiosity in
+    Regard to the Foreign Tourist but They
+             Are Always Courteous]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIV
+
+  Scene in Large Private
+    Garden, Kyoto. This
+  Old Capital of Japan Is
+    Noted for Its Many
+  Beautiful Gardens, With
+    Ponds Well Stocked
+     With Goldfish and
+   Crossed by Miniature
+         Bridges]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XV
+
+    Iris Bed at Horikiri,
+      near Tokyo. This
+    Flower Resort is the
+  Scene of Many Pilgrimages
+      in June When the
+     Irises Are in Full
+           Bloom]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVI
+
+            Private Garden, Kamakura.
+    This Gives a Good Idea of the Arrangement
+  of a Japanese Garden. To the Influence of the
+     Garden is Ascribed the Japanese Love of
+        the Beautiful in Nature and Art]
+
+
+
+
+  MANILA,
+  TRANSFORMED BY THE
+  AMERICANS
+
+
+FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MANILA AND ITS PICTURESQUE PEOPLE
+
+The bay of Manila is so extensive that the steamer appears to be
+entering a great inland sea. The shores are low-lying and it takes about
+an hour before the steamer nears the city, so that one can make out the
+landmarks. To the right, as one approaches the city, is Cavite, which
+Dewey took on that historic May day in 1898. The spires of many churches
+are the most conspicuous landmarks in Manila, but as the distance
+lessens a huge mass of concrete, the new Manila hotel, looms up near the
+docks. The bay is full of ships and alongside the docks are a number of
+passenger and freight steamers.
+
+Just as we are able to make out these things, our ears catch the strains
+of a fine band of music and we see two launches rapidly nearing the
+ship. In one is a portion of the splendid Constabulary Band, the finest
+in the Orient. In the other launch was the special committee of the
+Manila Merchants' Association. The band played several stirring airs,
+everybody cheered and waved handkerchiefs and for a few minutes it
+looked as though an impromptu Fourth of July celebration had begun. It
+is difficult to describe an American's emotions when he sees the Stars
+and Stripes for the first time in five weeks. The most phlegmatic man on
+the ship danced a war dance, women wept, and when the reception
+committee boarded the ship and met the passengers in the dining saloon
+there was great enthusiasm. Plans were arranged for crowding into the
+two days' stay all the sightseeing and entertainment possible and these
+plans were carried out, giving a fine proof of Manila hospitality.
+
+Manila differs from most of the Oriental cities in the fact that
+American enterprise has constructed great docks and dredged out the
+harbor so that the largest steamers may anchor alongside the docks. In
+Yokohama, Kobe, Hongkong and other ports ships anchor in the bay and
+passengers and freight must be transferred to the shore by launches and
+lighters. Reinforced concrete is now the favorite building material of
+the new Manila. Not only are the piles and docks made of this material,
+but all the new warehouses and business buildings as well as most of the
+American and foreign residences are of concrete. It is substantial,
+clean, cool and enduring, meeting every requirement of this tropical
+climate. The white ant, which is so destructive to the ordinary wooden
+pile, does not attack it.
+
+The Pasig river divides Manila into two sections. On the south side of
+the old walled city are the large districts of Malate, Ermito and Paco.
+On the north side is the principal retail business street, the Escolta
+and the other business thoroughfares lined with small shops, and six
+large native districts. The Escolta is only four blocks long, very
+narrow, with sidewalks barely three feet wide; yet here is done most of
+the foreign retail trade. In a short time a new Escolta will be built in
+the filled district, as it would cost too much to widen the old street.
+As a car line runs through the Escolta, there is a bad congestion of
+traffic at all times except in the early morning hours. The Bridge of
+Spain is one of the impressive sights of Manila. With its massive
+arches of gray stone, it looks as though it would be able to endure for
+many more centuries. One of the oldest structures in the city, it was
+built originally on pontoons, and it was provided with the present
+arches in 1630. Only one earthquake, that of 1863, damaged it. Then two
+of the middle arches gave way, and these were not restored for twelve
+years. The roadway is wide, but it is crowded all day with as
+picturesque a procession as may be seen in any part of the world. The
+carromata, a light, two-wheeled cart, with hooded cover, pulled by a
+native pony, is the favorite conveyance of the foreigners and the better
+class of the Filipinos. The driver sits in front, while two may ride
+very comfortably on the back seat. It is a great improvement on the
+Japanese jinrikisha because one may compare impressions with a
+companion. The country cart is built something like the carromata and
+will accommodate four people. Hundreds of these carts come into Manila
+every day with small stocks of vegetables and fruit for sale at the
+markets. A few victorias may be seen on the bridge, but what causes most
+of the congestion is the carabao cart, hauling the heavy freight. The
+carabao (pronounced carabough, with the accent on the last syllable), is
+the water buffalo of the Philippines, a slow, ungainly beast of burden
+that proves patient and tractable so long as he can enjoy a daily swim.
+If cut off from water the beast becomes irritable, soon gets "loco" and
+is then dangerous, as it will attack men or animals and gore them with
+its sharp horns. The carabao has little hair and its nose bears a strong
+resemblance to that of the hippopotamus. Its harness consists of a
+neckyoke of wood fastened to the thills of the two-wheeled cart. On this
+cart is frequently piled two tons, which the carabao pulls easily.
+
+Another bridge which has historic interest for the American is the San
+Juan bridge. It is reached by the Santa Mesa car line. Here at either
+end were encamped the American and Filipino armed forces, and the
+insurrection was started by a shot at night from the native trenches.
+The bridge was the scene of fierce fighting, which proved disastrous to
+the Filipinos.
+
+Aside from the bridges and the life along the Pasig river, the most
+interesting part of Manila lies within the old walled city. This section
+is known locally as "IntraMuros." It is still surrounded by the massive
+stone wall, which was begun in 1591 but not actually completed until
+1872. The wall was built to protect the city from free-booters, as
+Manila, like old Panama, offered a tempting prize to pirates. Into the
+wall was built old Fort Santiago, which still stands. The wall varies in
+thickness from three to forty feet, and in it were built many chambers
+used as places of confinement and torture. Until six years ago a wide
+moat surrounded the wall, but the stagnant water bred disease and the
+moat was filled with the silt dredged up from the bay. Fort Santiago
+forms the northwest corner of the wall. Its predecessor was a palisade
+of bags, built in 1571, behind which the Spaniards defended themselves
+against the warlike native chiefs. In 1590 the stone fort was begun.
+Within it was the court of the military government. Seven gates were
+used as entrances to the walled city in old Spanish days, the most
+picturesque being the Real gate, bearing the date of 1780, and the Santa
+Lucia gate, with the inscription of 1781. These gates were closed every
+night, and some of the massive machinery used for this purpose may be
+seen lying near by--a reminder of those good old days when the belated
+traveler camped outside.
+
+In the old walled city are some of the famous churches of Manila. The
+oldest is San Augustin, first dedicated in 1571. The present structure
+was built two years later, the first having been completely destroyed by
+fire. The enormously thick walls were laid so well that they have
+withstood the severe earthquakes which proved so destructive to many
+other churches. In this church are buried Legaspi and Salcedo, the
+explorers, who spread Spanish dominion over the Philippines.
+
+The Church of St. Ignatius is famous for the beautifully carved woodwork
+of the pulpit and the interior decorations; that of Santo Domingo is
+celebrated for its finely carved doors. The greatest shrine in the
+Phillippines is the Cathedral, which fronts on Plaza McKinley. This is
+the fifth building erected on the same site, fire having destroyed the
+other four. The architecture is Byzantine, and the interior gives a
+wonderful impression of grace and spaciousness. Some of the old doors
+and iron grill-work of the ancient cathedrals have been retained.
+
+
+AMERICAN WORK IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS
+
+It will surprise any American visitor to the Philippine Islands to find
+how much has been accomplished since 1898 to make life better worth
+living for the Filipino as well as for the European or the American.
+Civil government through the Philippine Commission has been in active
+operation for ten years. During this decade what Americans have achieved
+in solving difficult problems of colonial government is matter for
+national pride. The American method in the Philippines looks to giving
+the native the largest measure of self-government of which he is
+capable. It has not satisfied the Filipino, because he imagines that he
+is all ready for self-government, but it has done much to lift him out
+of the dead level of peonage in which the Spaniard kept him and to open
+the doors of opportunity to young Filipinos with ability and energy. I
+talked with many men in various professions and in many kinds of
+business and all agreed that the American system worked wonders in
+advancing the natives of real ability.
+
+Rev. Dr. George W. Wright of Manila, who has charge of a large
+Presbyterian seminary for training young Filipinos for the ministry, and
+who has had much experience in teaching, said: "In the old days only the
+sons of the illustrados, or prominent men of the noble class, had any
+chance to secure an education and this education was given in the
+Catholic private schools. With the advent of the Americans any boy
+possessing the faculty of learning quickly may get a good education,
+provided he will work for it. I know of one case of a boy who did not
+even know who his parents were. He gained a living by blacking shoes and
+selling papers. He came to me for aid in entering a night school. He
+learned more rapidly than anyone I ever knew. Soon he came to me and
+wanted a job that would occupy him half a day so that he could go to
+school the other half of the day. I got him the job and in a few months
+he was not only perfecting himself in English, but reading law. Nothing
+can keep this boy down; in a few years he will be a leader among his
+people. Under the old Spanish system he never would have been permitted
+to rise from the low caste in which fortune first placed him."
+
+[Illustration:
+
+    Imperial Gate, Fort Santiago, Manila.
+  This is the Main Entrance to the Old Fort,
+    Built Into the Massive Wall. This Wall
+       Was for Spanish Defense Against
+           Warlike Native Chiefs]
+
+More than a thousand American teachers are scattered over the Philippine
+Islands, and for ten years these men and women have been training the
+young of both sexes. Some have proved incompetent, a few have set a very
+bad example, but the great majority have done work of which any nation
+might be proud. They have not only been teachers of the young, but they
+have been counselors and friends of the parents of their pupils.
+
+The work done in a material way in the Philippines is even more
+remarkable. Of the first importance is the offer of a homestead to every
+citizen from the public lands. So much was paid for the friar lands that
+these are far beyond the reach of anyone of ordinary means, but the
+government has large reserves of public land, which only need
+cultivation to make them valuable. Sanitary conditions have been
+enormously improved both in Manila and throughout the islands. In the
+old days Manila was notorious for many deaths from cholera, bubonic
+plague and smallpox. No sanitary regulations were enforced and the
+absence of any provisions for sewage led to fearful pestilences. Now not
+only has Manila an admirable sewerage system, but the people have been
+taught to observe sanitary regulations, with the result that in the
+suburbs of such a city as Manila the homes of common people reveal much
+better conditions than the homes of similar classes in Japan. The sewage
+of Manila is pumped three times into large sumps before it is finally
+dumped into the bay a mile from the city.
+
+The island military police, known as the Constabulary Guard, has done
+more to improve conditions throughout the islands than any other agency.
+The higher officers are drawn from the United States regular army, but
+the captains and lieutenants are from civil life, and they are mainly
+made up of young college graduates. These men get their positions
+through the civil service and, though some fail to make good, the great
+majority succeed. Their positions demand unusual ability, for they not
+only have charge of companies of native police that resemble the Mexican
+rurales or the Canadian mounted police, but they serve as counselor and
+friend to all the Filipinos in their district. In this way their
+influence is frequently greater than that of the school teachers.
+
+All this work and much more has been accomplished by the insular
+government without calling upon the United States for any material help.
+It does not seem to be generally known that the Philippine Islands are
+now self-supporting, and that the only expense entailed on the general
+government is a slight increase for maintaining regiments assigned to
+the island service and the cost of Corregidor fortifications and other
+harbor defenses. This has been accomplished without excessive taxation.
+Personal property is exempt, while the rate on real estate in Manila is
+only one and one-half per cent. on the assessed valuation, and only
+seven-eights of one per cent. in the provinces. The fiscal system has
+been put on a gold basis, thus removing the old fluctuating silver
+currency which was a great hardship to trade.
+
+
+SCENES IN THE CITY OF MANILA AND SUBURBS
+
+Every visitor to Manila in the old days exhausted his vocabulary in
+praise of the Luneta, the old Spanish city's pleasure ground, which
+overlooked the bay and Corregidor Island. It was an oval drive, with a
+bandstand at each end, inclosing a pretty grass plot. Here, as evening
+came on, all Manila congregated to hear the band play and to meet
+friends. The Manilan does not walk, so the broad drive was filled with
+several rows of carriages passing slowly around the oval. To-day the
+Luneta remains as it was in the old Spanish days, but its chief charm,
+the seaward view, is gone. This is due to the filling in of the harbor
+front, which has left the Luneta a quarter of a mile from the
+water-front. However, a new Luneta has been made below the old one, and
+the broad avenues opened up near by give far more space for carriages
+than before. Every evening except Monday the Constabulary Band plays on
+the Luneta, and the scene is almost as brilliant as in the old days, as
+the American Government officials make it a point to turn out in
+uniform. Nothing can be imagined more perfect than the evenings in
+Manila after the heat of the day. The air is deliciously soft and a
+gentle breeze from the ocean tempers the heat.
+
+The best way to see the native life of Manila is to take a street-car
+ride through the Tondo and Caloocan districts, or a launch ride up the
+Pasig river. On the cars one passes through the heart of the business
+district, the great Tondo market, filled with supplies from the
+surrounding country as well as many small articles of native or foreign
+manufacture. This car line also passes the Maypajo, the largest cockpit
+in the world, where at regular intervals the best fighting cocks are
+pitted against each other and the betting is as spirited as on American
+race tracks in the old days. On the return trip by these cars one passes
+by the San Juan bridge, which marked the opening of the insurrection;
+the old Malacanan Palace, now the residence of Governor-General Forbes,
+and the Paco Cemetery, where several thousand bodies are buried in the
+great circular wall which surrounds the church. These niches in the wall
+are rented for a certain yearly sum, and in the old Spanish days, when
+this rental was not promptly paid by relatives, the corpse was removed
+and thrown with others into a great pit. Recently this ghastly practice
+has been frowned on by the authorities.
+
+The average Manila resident does not pay more than fifty dollars in our
+money for his nipa house. The framework is of bamboo, bound together by
+rattan; the roof timbers are of bamboo, while the sides of the house and
+the thatch are made from the nipa tree. The sides look like mats. The
+windows are of translucent shell, while the door is of nipa or wood.
+These houses are usually about fifteen feet square, with one large room,
+and are raised about six feet from the ground. Under the house is kept
+the live stock. When the family has a horse or cow or carabao the house
+is ten feet from the ground, and these animals are stabled underneath.
+In nearly every house or yard may be found a game cock tied by the leg
+to prevent him from roaming and fighting.
+
+In most of the houses that the cars passed in the big native quarter of
+Tondo, furniture was scanty. Usually the family has a large dresser,
+which is ornamented with cheap pictures, and the walls are frequently
+covered with prints in colors. There is no furniture, as the Filipino's
+favorite position is to squat on his haunches. In many of the poorest
+houses, however, were gramophones, which are paid for in monthly
+installments of a dollar or two. The Filipinos are very fond of music,
+and the cheap gramophones appeal to them strongly. Nearly every Filipino
+plays some instrument by ear, and many boys from the country are expert
+players on the guitar or mandolin. On large plantations the hands are
+fond of forming bands and orchestras, and often their playing would do
+credit to professional musicians. The Constabulary Band, recognized as
+the finest in the Orient, has been drilled by an American negro named
+Loring.
+
+In the Santa Mesa district are the houses of wealthy Filipinos. These
+are usually of two stories, with the upper story projecting far over the
+lower, and with many ornamental dormer windows, with casement sashes of
+small pieces of translucent shell. In Manila the window is provided to
+keep out the midday heat and glare of the sun. At other times the
+windows are slid into the walls, and thus nearly the whole side of the
+house is open to the cool night air. Many of these houses are finished
+in the finest hardwoods, and not a few have polished mahogany floors.
+Bamboo and rattan furniture may be seen in some of these houses, while
+in others are dressers and wardrobes in the rich native woods. These
+houses are embowered in trees, among which the magnolia, acacia and palm
+are the favorites, with banana and pomelo trees heavy with fruit.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVII
+
+   A Glimpse of the Escolta,
+     Manila. The Escolta,
+       Only Four Blocks
+  In Length, Is the Business
+     Street in Manila.
+   Clarke's, the Restaurant
+     and Tea-House in the
+      Foreground, Is the
+      Favorite American
+       Headquarters in
+           Manila]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XVIII
+
+  Old Church and Bridge
+    at Pasig. Built of
+    Massive Stone and
+   Overgrown With Moss,
+     This Bridge and
+    Church Seems Older
+  Than the Ancient Wall
+       of Manila]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XIX
+
+      The Binondo Canal, Which Intersects a
+  Crowded District of Manila. The Picture Gives
+      a Good Idea of the Cascoes or Native
+                   Cargo Boats]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XX
+
+     On the Malecon Drive, Manila.
+  One of the Picturesque Roads, Lined
+       With Feathery Palms, That
+          Lead to the Luneta]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXI
+
+           View on a Manila Canal.
+  This Gives a Good Idea of the Native Nipa
+     Huts Along the Banks of the Canal,
+          and a Bamboo Foot-bridge]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXII
+
+        A Filipino Peasant Girl on the
+  Way to Market. She Wears the Native Costume
+         With the Enormous Bamboo Hat.
+           The Water Jar is Like the
+             Spanish-American Olla]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIII
+
+         The Carabao Cart in the Philippines.
+  The Carabao or Water Buffalo is the Filipinos' Chief
+     Beast of Burden. The Cart is Crude and Heavy,
+          With a Home-made Yoke. The Buffalo
+            is also Used for Ploughing and
+                    Other Farm Work]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIV
+
+     The Nipa Hut of the
+   Filipino. This Style of
+     House, With Bamboo
+     Frame and Thatched
+   Sides and Roof of Nipa
+     Grass, Costs About
+  Fifty Mex. or Twenty-Five
+      Dollars in United
+    States Gold Coin. It
+      Is Usually About
+     Six Feet From the
+           Ground]
+
+
+
+
+  HONGKONG,
+  CANTON, SINGAPORE
+  AND RANGOON
+
+
+HONGKONG, THE GREATEST BRITISH PORT IN THE ORIENT
+
+The entrance to the harbor of Hongkong is one of the most impressive in
+the world. The steamer runs along by the mainland for several miles.
+Then a great island is descried, covered with smelting works, huge
+dockyards, great warehouses and other evidences of commercial activity.
+This is the lower end of the island of Victoria, on which the city of
+Hongkong has been built. The island was ceded by China to Great Britain
+in 1842, after the conclusion of the opium war. It is separated from the
+mainland of China by an arm of the sea, varying from one mile to five
+miles in width. This forms the harbor of Hongkong, one of the most
+spacious and picturesque in the world. It is crowded with steamers,
+ferryboats, Chinese junks with queer-shaped sails of yellow matting,
+sampans, trim steam launches and various other craft. As the vessel
+passes beyond the smelting works and the dry docks it rounds a point and
+the beauty of Hongkong is revealed.
+
+The city is built at the foot of a steep hill nearly two thousand feet
+in height. Along the crescent harbor front are ranged massive business
+buildings with colonaded fronts and rows of windows. Behind the business
+section the hills rise so abruptly that many of the streets are seen to
+be merely rows of granite stairs. Still farther back are the homes of
+Hongkong residents, beautiful stone or brick structures, which look out
+upon the busy harbor. With a glass one can make out the cable railroad
+which climbs straight up the mountainside for over one thousand feet and
+then turns sharply to the right until the station is reached, about
+thirteen hundred feet above sea level.
+
+Hongkong differs radically from Yokohama, Tokio, Kobe, Nagasaki or
+Manila, because of the blocks of solid, granite-faced buildings that
+line its water front, each with its rows of Venetian windows, recessed
+in balconies. This is the prevailing architecture for hotels, business
+buildings and residences, while dignity is lent to every structure by
+the enormous height between stories, the average being from fifteen to
+eighteen feet. This impression of loftiness is increased by the use of
+the French window, which extends from the floor almost to the ceiling,
+all the windows being provided with large transoms.
+
+The feature of Hongkong which impresses the stranger the most vividly is
+the great mixture of races in the streets. Here for the first time one
+finds the sedan chair, with two or four bearers. It is used largely in
+Hongkong for climbing the steep streets which are impossible for the
+jinrikisha. The bearers are low-class coolies from the country, whose
+rough gait makes riding in a chair the nearest approach to horseback
+exercise. The jinrikisha is also largely in evidence, but the bearers
+are a great contrast in their rapacious manners to the courteous and
+smiling Japanese in all the cities of the Mikado's land.
+
+Queen's road, the main business street of Hongkong, furnishes an
+extraordinary spectacle at any hour of the day. The roadway is lined
+with shops, while the sidewalks, covered by the verandas of the second
+stories of the buildings, form a virtual arcade, protected from the
+fierce rays of the sun. These shops are mainly designed to catch the eye
+of the foreigner, and they are filled with a remarkable collection of
+silks, linens, ivories, carvings and other articles that appeal to the
+American because of the skilled labor that has been expended upon them.
+Carvings and embroidery that represent the work of months are sold at
+such low prices as to make one marvel how anyone can afford to produce
+them even in this land of cheap living.
+
+The crowd that streams past these shops is even more curious than the
+goods offered for sale. Here East and West meet in daily association.
+The Englishman is easily recognized by his air of proprietorship,
+although his usual high color is somewhat reduced by the climate. He has
+stamped his personality on Hongkong and he has builded here for
+generations to come. The German is liberally represented, and old
+Hongkong residents bewail the fact that every year sees a larger number
+of Emperor William's subjects intent on wresting trade from the British.
+Frenchmen and other Europeans pass along this Queen's road, and the
+American tourist is in evidence, intent on seeing all the sights as well
+as securing the best bargains from the shopkeepers. All these foreigners
+have modified their garb to suit the climate. They wear suits of white
+linen or pongee with soft shirts, and the solar topi, or pith helmet,
+which is a necessity in summer and a great comfort at other seasons. The
+helmet keeps the head cool and shelters the nape of the neck, which
+cannot be exposed safely to the sun's rays. Instead of giving health as
+the California sun does, this Hongkong sunshine brings heat apoplexy and
+fever. All the Orient is represented by interesting types. Here are rich
+Chinese merchants going by in private chairs, with bearers in handsome
+silk livery; Parsees from Bombay, with skins almost as black as those of
+the American negro; natives of other parts of India in their
+characteristic dress and their varying turbans; Sikh policemen, tall,
+powerful men, who have a lordly walk and who beat and kick the Chinese
+chair coolies and rickshaw men when they prove too insistent or
+rapacious; Chinese of all classes, from the prosperous merchant to the
+wretched coolie whose prominent ribs show how near he lives to actual
+starvation in this overcrowded land; workmen of all kinds, many bearing
+their tools, and swarms of peddlers and vendors of food, crying their
+wares, with scores of children, many of whom lead blind beggars.
+Everywhere is the noise of many people shouting lustily, the cries of
+chair coolies warning the passersby to clear the way for their
+illustrious patrons.
+
+The Chinese seem unable to do anything without an enormous expenditure
+of talk and noise. Ordinary bargaining looks like the beginning of a
+fierce fight. Any trifling accident attracts a great crowd, which
+becomes excited at the slightest provocation. It is easy to see from an
+ordinary walk in this Hongkong street how panic or rage may convert the
+stolid Chinese into a deadly maniac, who will stop at no outburst of
+violence, no atrocity, that will serve to wreak his hatred of the
+foreigner.
+
+Although Hongkong has been Europeanized in its main streets, there are
+quarters of the city only a few blocks away from the big hotels and
+banks which give one glimpses of genuine native life. Some of these
+streets are reached by scores of granite steps that climb the steep
+mountainside. These streets are not over twelve or fifteen feet wide,
+and the shops are mere holes in the wall, with a frontage of eight or
+ten feet. Yet many of these dingy shops contain thousands of dollars'
+worth of decorated silks and linens, artistic carvings, laces, curios
+and many other articles of Chinese manufacture. Unlike the Japanese, who
+will follow the tourist to the sidewalk and urge him to buy, these
+Chinese storekeepers show no eagerness to make sales. They must be urged
+to display their fine goods, and they cannot be hurried. The best time
+to see these native streets is at night. Take a chair if the climate
+overpowers you, but walk if you can. Then a night stroll through this
+teeming quarter will always remain in the memory. Every one is working
+hard, as in Japan, for the Chinese workday seems endless. All kinds of
+manufacture are being carried on here in these narrow little shops; the
+workers are generally stripped to the waist, wearing only loose short
+trousers of cheap blue or brown cotton, the lamplight gleaming on their
+sweating bodies. Here are goldsmiths beating out the jewelry for which
+Hongkong is famous; next are scores of shops in all of which shoes are
+being made; then follow workers in willow-ware and rattan, makers of
+hats, furniture and hundreds of other articles. In every block is an
+eating-house, with rows of natives squatted on benches, and with large
+kettles full of evil-smelling messes. The crowds in the streets vie with
+the crowds in the stores in the noise that they make; the air reeks with
+the odors of sweating men, the smell of unsavory food, the stench of
+open gutters. This panorama of naked bodies, of wild-eyed yellow faces
+drawn with fatigue and heat passes before ones' eyes for an hour. Then
+the senses begin to reel and it is time to leave this scene of Oriental
+life that is far lower and more repulsive than the most crowded streets
+in the terrible East Side tenement quarter of New York on a midsummer
+night.
+
+Hongkong, both in the European and native quarters, is built to endure
+for centuries. Most of the houses are of granite or plastered brick. The
+streets are paved with granite slabs. Even the private residences have
+massive walls and heavy roofs of red or black tile; the gardens are
+screened from the street by high walls, with broken glass worked into
+the mortar that forms the coping and with tall iron entrance gates.
+These residences dot the side hill above the town. They are built upon
+terraces, which include the family tennis court. The roads wind around
+the mountainside, many of them quarried out of solid rock. All the
+building material of these houses had to be carried up the steep
+mountainside by coolies and, until the cable railway was finished, the
+dwellers were borne to their homes at night by chair coolies.
+
+This cable railway carries one nearly to the top of the peak back of
+Hongkong, and from the station a short walk brings one to the summit,
+where a wireless station is used to flash arrivals of vessels to the
+city below. The view from this summit, and from the splendid winding
+road which leads to the Peak Hospital, not far away, is one of the
+finest in the world. The harbor, dotted with many ships and small boats,
+the indented coast for a score of miles, the bare and forbidding Chinese
+territory across the bay, the big city at the foot of the hill; all
+these are spread out below like a great panorama.
+
+The British are firmly entrenched at Hongkong. Not only have they actual
+ownership of Victoria Island, on which Hongkong is built, but they have
+a perpetual lease of a strip of the mainland across from the island,
+extending back for over one hundred miles. The native city across the
+bay is Kowloon, and is reached by a short ride on the new railroad
+which will eventually connect Hankow with Paris. On the barren shore,
+about a mile from Hongkong, has been founded the European settlement of
+Kowloon City. It comprises a row of large warehouses, or godowns, a big
+naval victualling station and coaling depot, large barracks for two
+regiments of Indian infantry and several companies of Indian artillery,
+with many fine quarters for European officers. The city in recent years
+has become a favorite residence place for Hongkong business men, as it
+is reached in a few minutes by a good ferry. Near by are the great naval
+docks at Hunghom, extensive cement works and the deepest railway cut in
+the world, the material being used to fill in the bay of Hunghom.
+
+
+A VISIT TO CANTON IN DAYS OF WILD PANIC
+
+Every traveler who has seen the Orient will tell you not to miss Canton,
+the greatest business center of China, the most remarkable city of the
+empire, and among the most interesting cities of the world. It is only a
+little over eighty miles from Hongkong, and if one wishes to save time
+it may be reached by a night boat.
+
+While in Manila I heard very disturbing reports of rioting in Canton and
+possible bloodshed in the contest between the Manchus in control of the
+army and the revolutionists. This rioting followed the assassination of
+the Tartar general, who was blown up, with a score of his bodyguard, as
+he was formally entering the city by the main south gate. When Hongkong
+was reached these rumors of trouble became more persistent, and they
+were given point by the arrival every day by boat and train of thousands
+of refugees from Canton. Every day the bulletin boards in the Chinese
+quarter contained dispatches from Canton, around which a swarm of
+excited coolies gathered and discussed the news. One night came the news
+that the Viceroy had acknowledged the revolutionists and had agreed to
+surrender on the following day. This report was received with great
+enthusiasm, and hundreds of dollars' worth of firecrackers were burned
+to celebrate the success of the new national movement.
+
+That night I left Hongkong on the Quong Si, one of the Chinese boats
+that ply between Hongkong and Canton, under the British flag. A
+half-dozen American tourists were also on the boat, including several
+ladies.
+
+The trip up the estuary of the Pearl river that leads to Canton was made
+without incident, and the boat anchored in the river opposite the
+Shameen or foreign concession early in the morning, but the passengers
+remained on board until about eight-thirty o'clock. The reports that
+came from the shore were not reassuring. Guides who came out in sampans
+said that there was only a forlorn hope of getting into the walled city,
+as nearly all the gates had been closed for two days. They also brought
+the alarming news that the Viceroy had reconsidered his decision of the
+previous night and had sent word that he proposed to resist by force any
+effort of the revolutionists to capture the city. The flag of the
+revolution had also been hauled down and the old familiar yellow
+dragon-flag hoisted in its place.
+
+While waiting for the guide to arrange for chairs to take the party
+through the city, we had a good opportunity to study the river life
+which makes Canton unique among Chinese cities. Out of the total
+population of over two millions, at least a quarter of a million live in
+boats from birth to death and know no other home. Many of these boats
+are large cargo junks which ply up and down the river and bring produce
+to the great city market, but the majority are small sampans that house
+one Chinese family and that find constant service in transferring
+passengers and freight from one side of the river to the other, as well
+as to and from the hundreds of steamers that call at the port. They have
+a covered cabin into which the family retires at night.
+
+These sampans are mainly rowed by women, who handle the boats with great
+skill. A young girl usually plies the short oar on the bow, while her
+mother, assisted by the younger children, works the large oar or sweep
+in the stern. The middle of the sampan is covered by a bamboo house, and
+in the forward part of this house the family has its kitchen fire and
+all its arrangements for food. The passenger sits on the after seat near
+the stern of the boat. These boats are scrubbed so that the woodwork
+shines, and the backs of the seats are covered with fresh matting.
+
+Looking out from the steamer one saw at least two miles of these small
+sampans and larger craft massed along both shores of the river, which is
+here about a half-mile wide. The foreign concession or Shameen is free
+from these boats. It is really a sand spit, surrounded by water, which
+was made over to the foreigners after the opium war.
+
+North of the Shameen is the new western suburb of Canton, which has
+recently been completed on European lines. It has a handsome bund,
+finely paved, with substantial buildings facing the river. Close up
+against this bund, and extending down the river bank for at least two
+miles are ranged row on row of houseboats. Every few minutes a boat
+darts out from the mass and is pulled to one of the ships in the stream.
+
+Across the river and massed against the shore of Honam, the suburb
+opposite Canton, is another tangle of sampans, with thousands of active
+river folk, all shouting and screaming. These yellow thousands toiling
+from break of day to late at night do not seem human; yet each boat has
+its family life. The younger children are tied so that they cannot fall
+overboard, and the older ones wear ingenious floats which will buoy
+them up should they tumble into the water. Boys and girls four or five
+years old assist in the working of the boat, while girls of twelve or
+fourteen are experts in handling the oar and in using the long bamboo
+boat hook that serves to carry the small craft out of the tangle of
+river activity.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+   The City of Boats at
+  Canton. This Floating
+    City in the Pearl
+  River Opposite Canton
+    Contains 250,000
+  People, Many of Whom
+     Never Venture
+        On Land]
+
+A type of river steamer which will amaze the American is an old
+stern-wheeler run by man power. It is provided with a treadmill just
+forward of the big stern wheel. Two or three tiers of naked, perspiring
+coolies are working this treadmill, all moving with the accuracy and
+precision of machinery. The irreverent foreigner calls these the
+"hotfoot" boats, and in the land where a coolie may be hired all day for
+forty cents Mexican or twenty cents in our coin this human power is far
+cheaper than soft coal at five dollars a ton. These boats carry freight
+and passengers and they move along at a lively pace.
+
+After an hour spent in study of this strange river life I was fortunate
+enough to go ashore with an American missionary whose husband was
+connected with a large college across the river from Canton. She came
+aboard in a sampan to take ashore two ladies from Los Angeles. She
+invited me to accompany the party, and as she spoke Chinese fluently I
+was glad to accept her offer. We went ashore in a sampan and at once
+proceeded to visit the western suburb. This part of Canton has been
+built in recent years and is somewhat cleaner than the old town. It is
+separated from the Shameen by bridges which may be drawn up like an
+ancient portcullis. Here we at once plunged into the thick of native
+life. The streets, not over ten feet wide, were crowded with people.
+
+We passed through streets devoted wholly to markets and restaurants, and
+the spectacle was enough to keep one from ever indulging hereafter in
+chop-suey. Here were tables spread with the intestines of various
+animals, pork in every form, chickens and ducks, roasted and covered
+with some preparation that made them look as though just varnished. Here
+were many strange vegetables and fruits, and here, hung against the
+wall, were row on row of dried rats. At a neighboring stall were several
+small, flat tubs, in which live fish swam about, waiting for a customer
+to order them knocked on the head. Then we passed into a street of curio
+shops, but the grill work in front was closed and behind could be seen
+the timid proprietors, who evidently did not mean to take any chances of
+having their stores looted by robbers. For three or four days the most
+valuable goods in all the Canton stores had been removed as rapidly as
+possible. Thousands of bales of silk and tons of rare curios were
+already safe in the foreign warehouses at the Shameen or had been
+carried down the river to Hongkong. Often we had to flatten ourselves
+against the sides of the street to give passage to chairs containing
+high-class Chinese and their families, followed by coolies bearing the
+most valuable of their possessions packed in cedar chests.
+
+At an American hospital we were met by several young Englishmen
+connected with medical and Young Men's Christian Association work. They
+proposed a trip through the old walled city, but they refused to take
+the two ladies, as they said it would be dangerous in the excited
+condition of the people. So we set out, five in number. After a short
+walk we reached one of the gates of the walled city, only to find it
+closed and locked. A short walk brought us to a second gate, which was
+opened readily by the Chinese guards, armed with a new type of German
+army rifle. The walls of the old city were fully ten feet thick where
+we entered, and about twenty feet high, made of large slabs of granite.
+
+Once inside the city walls a great surprise awaited us. Instead of
+crowded streets and the hum of trade were deserted streets, closed shops
+and absolute desolation. For blocks the only persons seen were soldiers
+and refugees making their way to the gates. In one fine residence
+quarter an occasional woman peered through the front gates; in other
+sections all the houses were closed and barred. Soon we reached the
+Buddhist temple, known as the Temple of Horrors. Around the central
+courtyard are grouped a series of booths, in each of which are wooden
+figures representing the torture of those who commit deadly sins. In one
+booth a victim is being sawed in two; in others poor wretches are being
+garroted, boiled in oil, broken on the wheel and subjected to many other
+ingenious tortures. At one end is an elaborate joss-house, with a great
+bronze bell near by. In normal conditions this temple is crowded, and
+true believers buy slips of prayers, which they throw into the booths to
+ward off ill luck.
+
+The rush of refugees grew greater as we penetrated toward the heart of
+the city. On the main curio street the huge gilded signs hung as if in
+mockery above shops which had been stripped of all their treasures.
+Occasionally a restaurant remained open and these were crowded with
+chair coolies, who were waiting to be engaged by some merchant eager to
+escape from the city. Gone was all the life and bustle that my
+companions said made this the most remarkable street in Canton. It was
+like walking through a city of the dead, and it bore a striking
+resemblance to San Francisco's business district on the day of the great
+fire. At intervals we passed the yamens of magistrates, but the guards
+and attaches were enjoying a vacation, as no court proceedings were
+held. Progress became more and more difficult as the rush of refugees
+increased and returning chair coolies clamored for passageway. The
+latter had taken parties to the river boats and were coming back for
+more passengers. As it became evident that we could not see the normal
+life of the city, my companions finally urged that we return, as they
+feared the gates might be closed against us, so we retraced our way,
+this time taking the main street which led to the great south gate.
+
+Not far from the gate we came on the scene of the blowing up of the
+Tartar general. Seven shops on both sides of the street were wrecked by
+the explosion. The heavy fronts were partly intact, but the interiors
+were a mass of brick and charred timbers, for fire followed the
+explosion. The general had waited several months to allow the political
+excitement that followed his appointment to subside. He felt safe in
+entering the city with a strong bodyguard, but not over one hundred
+yards from the gate a bomb was thrown which killed the general
+instantly, mangled a score of his retainers and killed over a dozen
+Chinese bystanders. The revolutionists tried to clear the street so that
+none of their own people should suffer, but they failed because of the
+curiosity of the crowd.
+
+Near by this place is the old Buddhist water clock, which for five
+hundred years has marked the time by the drip of water from a hidden
+spring. The masonry of this water-clock building looks very ancient, and
+the clock is reached by several long flights of granite stairs.
+
+After viewing the clock we reached the wall and passed through the big
+south gates, which are fully six inches thick, of massive iron, studded
+with large nails. Outside on the bund were drawn up several rapid-fire
+guns belonging to Admiral Li, the efficient head of the Chinese navy at
+Canton, who also had a score of trim little gunboats patrolling the
+river. These boats had rapid-fire guns at bow and stern.
+
+So we came back to the Canton hospital, where we had luncheon. After
+this I made my way back to the steamer, to find her crowded with over
+one thousand refugees from the old city, with their belongings. The
+decks and even the dining saloon were choked with these people, and
+during the two hours before the boat sailed at least three hundred more
+passengers were taken on board. We sailed in the late afternoon and were
+followed by four other river steamers, carrying in all over six thousand
+refugees.
+
+
+SINGAPORE THE MEETING PLACE OF MANY RACES
+
+Of all the places in the Orient, the most cosmopolitan is Singapore, the
+gateway to the Far East; the one city which everyone encircling the
+globe is forced to visit, at least for a day. Hongkong streets may have
+seemed to present an unparalleled mixture of races; Canton's narrow
+alleys may have appeared strange and exotic; but Singapore surpasses
+Honkong in the number and picturesqueness of the races represented in
+its streets, as it easily surpasses Canton in strange sights and in
+swarming toilers from many lands that fill the boats on its canals and
+the narrow, crooked streets that at night glow with light and resound
+with the clamor of alien tongues.
+
+Singapore is built on an island which adjoins the extreme end of the
+Malay Peninsula. It is about sixty miles from the equator, and it has a
+climate that varies only a few degrees from seventy during the entire
+year. This heat would not be debilitating were it not for the extreme
+humidity of the atmosphere. To a stranger, especially if he comes from
+the Pacific Coast, the place seems like a Turkish bath. The slightest
+physical exertion makes the perspiration stand out in beads on the face.
+
+Singapore has a population of over three hundred thousand people; it has
+a great commercial business, which is growing every year; it already has
+the largest dry dock in the world. Its bund is not so imposing as that
+of Hongkong, but it has more public squares and its government buildings
+are far more handsome. As Hongkong owes much of its splendid
+architecture and its air of stability to Sir Paul Chator, so Singapore
+owes its spacious avenues, its fine buildings, its many parks, its
+interesting museum and its famous botanical gardens to Sir Stamford
+Raffles, one of the British empire-builders who have left indelibly
+impressed on the Orient their genius for founding cities and
+constructing great public enterprises. Yet, Singapore, with far more
+business than Manila, is destitute of a proper sewer system, and the
+streets in its native quarters reek with foul odors.
+
+The feature of Singapore that first impresses the stranger is the
+variety of races seen in any of the streets, and this continues to
+impress him so long as he remains in the city. My stay in Singapore was
+four days, due to the fact that it was necessary to wait here for the
+departure of the British West India Company's steamer for Rangoon and
+Calcutta. In jinrikishas and pony carts I saw all quarters of the town,
+and my wonder grew every day at the remarkable show of costumes
+presented by the different races. One day, late in the afternoon, I sat
+down on a coping of the wall that surrounds a pretty park on Orchard
+road, and in the space of a half hour watched the moving show that
+passed by. At this hour all Singapore takes its outing to the Botanical
+Gardens, and one may study the people who have leisure and money.
+
+The favorite rig is still the victoria drawn by high-stepping horses,
+with coachman and postilion, but the automobile is evidently making
+rapid strides in popular favor, despite the fact that the heavy, humid
+air makes the odor of gasoline cling to the roadway. A high-class Arab,
+with his keen, intellectual face, rides by with a bright Malay driving
+the machine. Then comes a fat and prosperous-looking Parsee in his
+carriage, followed by a rich Chinese merchant arrayed in spotless white,
+seated in a motor car, his family about him, and some relative or
+servant at the wheel. Along moves a rickshaw with an East Indian woman,
+the sun flashing on the heavy gold rings in her ears, while a carriage
+follows with a pretty blonde girl with golden hair, seated beside her
+Chinese ayah, or nurse. A score of young Britons come next in rickshaws,
+some carrying tennis racquets, and others reading books or the afternoon
+paper. The rickshaws here, unlike those of Japan or China, carry two
+people. They are pulled by husky Chinese coolies, who have as remarkable
+development of the leg muscles as their Japanese brothers, with far
+better chests. In fact, the average Chinese rickshaw coolie of Singapore
+is a fine physical type, and he will draw for hours with little show of
+suffering a rickshaw containing two people. The pony cart of Singapore
+is another unique institution. It is a four-wheeled cart, seating four
+people, drawn by a pony no larger than the average Shetland. The driver
+sits on a little box in front, and at the end of the wagon is a basket
+in which rests the pony's allowance of green grass for the day. The pony
+cart is popular with parties of three or four and, as most of
+Singapore's streets are level, the burden on the animal is not severe.
+
+This moving procession of the races goes on until eleven-thirty o'clock,
+the popular dinner hour all along the Chinese coast. It is varied by the
+occasional appearance of a bullock cart, which has probably changed very
+little in hundreds of years. The bullocks have a pronounced hump at the
+shoulders, and are of the color and size of a Jersey cow. The neckyoke
+is a mere bar of wood fastened to the pole, and the cart is heavy and
+ungainly. Nowhere in Singapore does one find coolies straining at huge
+loads as in China and Japan, as this labor is given over to bullocks.
+Here, however, both men and women carry heavy burdens on their heads,
+while the Chinese use the pole and baskets, so familiar to all
+Californians.
+
+The Malays and East Indians furnish the most picturesque feature of all
+street crowds. The Malays, dark of skin, with keen faces, wear the
+sarong, a skirt of bright-colored silk or cotton wrapped about the loins
+and falling almost to the shoe. The sarong is scant and reminds one
+strongly of the hobble-skirt, as no Malay is able to take a full stride
+in it. The skirt and jacket of the Malay may vary, but the sarong is
+always of the same style, and the brighter the color the more it seems
+to please the wearer. The East Indians are of many kinds. The Sikhs, who
+are the police of Hongkong, here share such duty with Tamils from
+southern India and some Chinese.
+
+No Malay is ever seen in any low, menial employment. The Malay is well
+represented on the electric cars, where he serves usually as conductor
+and sometimes as motorman. He is also an expert boatman and fisherman.
+He is very proud and is said to be extremely loyal to foreigners who
+treat him with justice and consideration. The Malay, however, can not be
+depended on for labor on the rubber or cocoanut plantations, as he will
+not work unless he can make considerable money. Ordinary wages do not
+appeal to a man in a country where eight cents is the cost of
+maintenance on rice and fish, with plenty of tea. The Malay is a
+gentleman, even when in reduced circumstances, and he must be treated
+with consideration that would be lost or wasted on the ordinary Chinese.
+
+The Chinese occupy a peculiar position in Singapore. It is the only
+British crown colony in which the Chinese is accorded any equality with
+white men. Here in the early days the Chinese were welcomed not only for
+their ability to do rough pioneer work, but because of their commercial
+ability. From the outset they have controlled the trade with their
+countrymen in the Malayan States, while at the same time they have
+handled all the produce raised by Chinese. They have never done much in
+the export trade, nor have they proved successful in carrying on the
+steamship business, because they can not be taught the value of keeping
+vessels in fine condition and of catering to the tastes of the foreign
+traveling public. On the other hand, the great Chinese merchants of
+Singapore have amassed large fortunes and have built homes which surpass
+those of rich Europeans. On Orchard road, which leads to the Botanical
+Gardens, are several Chinese residences which excite the traveler's
+wonder, because of the beauty of the buildings and grounds and the
+lavishness of ornament and decorations. These merchants, whose names are
+known throughout the Malay States and as far as Hongkong and Manila,
+represent the Chinese at his best, freed from all restrictions and
+permitted to give his commercial genius full play.
+
+
+STRANGE NIGHT SCENES IN THE CITY OF SINGAPORE
+
+The Chinese element in Singapore is so overwhelming that it arrests the
+attention of the most careless tourist, but no one appreciates the
+enormous number of the Mongolians in Singapore until he visits the
+Chinese and Malay districts at night. With a friend I started out one
+night about eight o'clock. It was the first night in Singapore that one
+could walk with any comfort. We went down North Bridge road, one of the
+main avenues on which an electric car line runs. After walking a
+half-mile we struck off to the right where the lights were bright. Just
+as soon as we left the main avenue we began to see life as it is in
+Singapore after dark. The first native street was devoted to small
+hawkers, who lined both sides of the narrow thoroughfare. Each had about
+six feet of space, and each had his name and his number as a licensed
+vender. The goods were of every description and of the cheapest quality.
+They had been brought in small boxes, and on these sat the Chinese
+merchant and frequently his wife and children. A flare or two from cheap
+nut oil illuminated the scene.
+
+Passing in front of these stands was a constantly moving crowd of
+Chinese, Malays and East Indians of many races, all chaffering and
+talking at the top of their voices. At frequent intervals were street
+tea counters, where food was sold, evidently at very low prices. Ranged
+along on benches were men eating rice and various stews that were taken
+piping hot from kettles resting on charcoal stoves. One old Chinese
+woman had a very condensed cooking apparatus. Over two small braziers
+she had two copper pots, each divided into four compartments and in each
+of these different food was cooking.
+
+Back of the street peddlers were the regular stores, all of which were
+open and apparently doing a good business. As in Hongkong, the Chinese
+workmen labor until ten or eleven o'clock at night, even carpenters and
+basket-makers working a full force by the light of gas or electricity.
+The recent events in China had their reflex here. All the makers of
+shirts and clothing were feverishly busy cutting up and sewing the new
+flag of the revolution. Long lines of red and blue bunting ran up and
+down these rooms, and each workman was driving his machine like mad,
+turning out a flag every few minutes. The fronts of most of these stores
+were decorated with flags of the revolution.
+
+The most conspicuous places of business on these streets were the large
+restaurants, where hundreds of Chinese were eating their chow at small
+tables. The din was terrific, and the lights flashing on the naked
+yellow skins, wet with perspiration, made a strange spectacle. Next to
+these eating houses in number were handsomely decorated places in which
+Chinese women plied the most ancient trade known to history. Some of
+these women were very comely, but few were finely dressed, as in this
+quarter cheapness seemed to be the rule in everything. Around some of
+these places crowds of Chinese gathered and exchanged comment apparently
+on attractive new arrivals in these resorts of vice. Many of the inmates
+were young girls, fourteen or sixteen years old.
+
+Less numerous than these houses were the opium dens, scattered
+throughout all these streets. These haunts of the drug that enslaves
+were long and narrow rooms, with a central passage and a long, low
+platform on each side. This platform was made of fine hardwood, and by
+constant use shone like old mahogany. Ranged along on these platforms
+wide enough for two men, facing each other and using a common lamp, were
+scores of opium smokers. As many as fifty men could be accommodated in
+each of these large establishments. The opium was served as a sticky
+mass, and each man rolled some of it on a metal pin and cooked it over
+the lamp. When cooked, the ball of opium was thrust into a small hole in
+the bamboo opium pipe. Then the smoker, lying on his side, drew the
+flame of the lamp against this opium and the smoke came up through the
+bamboo tube of the pipe and was inhaled. One cooking of opium makes
+never more than three whiffs of the pipe, sometimes only two. The effect
+on the novice is very exhilarating, but the seasoned smoker is forced to
+consume more and more of the drug to secure the desired effect. In one
+of these dens we watched a large Chinese prepare his opium. He took only
+two whiffs, but the second one was so deep that the smoke made the tears
+run out of his eyes. His companion was so far under the influence of the
+drug that his eyes were glazed and he was staring at some vision called
+up by the powerful narcotic. One old Chinese, seeing our interest in the
+spectacle, shook his head and said: "Opium very bad for Chinaman; make
+him poor; make him weak." Further along in this quarter we came upon
+several huge Chinese restaurants, ablaze with light and noisy with
+music. We were told that dinners were being given in honor of
+revolutionist victories.
+
+In all our night ramble through the Chinese and Malay quarters of
+Singapore we saw not a single European, yet we met only courteous
+treatment everywhere, and our curiosity was taken as a compliment.
+Singapore is well policed by various races, among which the Sikhs and
+Bengali predominate. An occasional Malay is met acting as a police
+officer, but it is evident that such work does not appeal to the native
+of the Straits Settlements.
+
+On our return to the hotel we crossed a large estuary which is spanned
+by several bridges. Here were hundreds of small boats moored to the
+shore, the homes of thousands of river people. This business of
+transportation on the water is in the hands of the Malays, who are most
+expert boatmen. It is a pleasure to watch one of these men handle a huge
+cargo boat. With his large oar he will scull rapidly, while his
+assistant uses a long pole.
+
+One of the sights of Singapore is the Botanical Gardens, about three and
+one-half miles from town. The route is along Orchard road and Tanglin
+road, two beautiful avenues that are lined with comfortable bungalows of
+Europeans, and magnificent mansions of Chinese millionaires. The gardens
+occupy a commanding position overlooking the surrounding country, and
+they have been laid out with much skill. The drives are bordered with
+ornamental trees from all lands. The most beautiful of all the palms is
+the Traveler's tree from Madagascar. It is a palm the fronds of which
+grow up like a regular fan. At a little distance it looks like a
+peacock's tail spread to the full extent. It is so light, graceful and
+feathery that it satisfies the eye as no other palm does. Of other palms
+there are legion, from the Mountain Cabbage palm of the West Indies to
+endless varieties from Malay, Madagascar and western Africa.
+
+
+CHARACTERISTIC SIGHTS IN BURMA'S LARGEST CITY
+
+One of the characteristic sights of Rangoon is that of the big Siamese
+elephants piling teak in the lumber yards along Rangoon river. It is the
+same sight that Kipling pictured in the lines in his perfect ballad,
+_Mandalay_, which an Englishman who knows his Burma well says is "the
+finest ballad in the world, with all the local color wrong."
+
+These lumber yards are strung along the river, but are easily reached by
+an electric car. Several are conducted by Chinese, but the finest yard
+is in charge of the government. At the first Chinese yard was the
+largest elephant in the city, a huge animal fifty-five years old, with
+great tusks admirably fitted for lifting large logs. A dozen tourists
+were grouped about the yard in the early morning, for these elephants
+are only worked in the morning and evening hours, when it is cool. An
+East Indian coolie was mounted on his back, or rather just back of his
+ears, with his legs dangling loose. With his naked feet he indicated
+whether the elephant was to go to the right or left, and when he wished
+to emphasize an order he hit the beast a blow upon the head with a heavy
+steel rod.
+
+Much of the work which this elephant did was spectacular, as it showed
+the enormous strength of the animal as well as his great intelligence.
+He took up on his tusks a log of teak, the native wood of this country,
+as hard as hickory and much heavier, and, with the aid of his trunk,
+stood with it at attention until every camera fiend had taken his
+picture. Then his driver made the huge beast move a large log of teak
+from a muddy hole by sheer force of the head and neck. The animal
+dropped almost to his knees, and then putting forth all his strength he
+actually pushed the log, which weighed about a ton and one-half, through
+the mud up to the gangplank of the saw. Then he piled several huge logs
+one upon the other, to show his skill in this work.
+
+Leaving this yard the party walked about a half-mile through trails,
+with marshy land on each side, to the big government timber yard. Here
+were thousands of logs which had been cut far up in the teak forests of
+the interior, dragged through the swamps of the Irrawaddy by elephants,
+then floated down the great river to Rangoon. All the logs in this yard
+were marked with a red cross to signify that they belonged to the
+government. Down by the river shore, where the ground was so soft that
+their feet sank deep into the slimy mud, were five elephants engaged in
+hauling logs up from the river to the dry ground near the shore.
+
+The chief object of interest in Rangoon is the great Shwe Dagon pagoda,
+which dominates the whole city. Its golden summit may be seen for many
+miles gleaming above dull green masses of foliage. This pagoda is the
+center of the Buddhist faith, as it is said to contain veritable relics
+of Gautama as well as of the three Buddhas who came before him.
+Thousands of pilgrims from all parts of Burmah, Siam, Cochin-China,
+Korea, Ceylon and other Oriental countries visit the pagoda every year
+and their offerings at the various shrines amount to millions of
+dollars. The pagoda differs absolutely from the temples of Japan and
+China in form, material and the arrangement of lesser shrines; but its
+impressiveness is greatly injured by the presence of hundreds of
+hucksters, who sell not only curios and souvenirs of the pagoda, but
+food and drink.
+
+The pagoda, which is about two miles from the business center of
+Rangoon, is built upon a mound. The circumference is thirteen hundred
+and fifty-five feet and the total height from the base is three hundred
+and seventy feet. It is constructed in circular style, its concentric
+rings gradually lessening in size until the top is reached. This is
+surmounted by a gilt iron work or "ti" on which little bells are hung.
+This "ti" was a gift from the late king of Burmah, who spent a quarter
+of a million dollars on its decoration with gold and precious stones.
+The mound on which the pagoda stands is divided into two rectangular
+terraces. The upper terrace, nine hundred feet by six hundred and
+eighty-five, is one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the
+ground. The ascent is by three flights of brick stairs, the fourth
+flight at the back being closed to permit of the building of
+fortifications by which the English may defend the pagoda in any
+emergency. The southern or main entrance is made conspicuous by two
+enormous leogryphs, which are of plastered brick.
+
+Up these steep stairs the visitor climbs, pestered by loathsome beggars
+and importuned on every hand to buy relics, flowers and articles of gold
+and silver. One would fancy he was in a great bazar rather than in the
+entrance hall of the finest monument in the world erected in honor of
+Buddha. The four chapels ranged around the rectangular terrace are
+ornamented by figures of the sitting Buddha. Then one visits a score of
+magnificently decorated shrines, in which are Buddhas in every variety
+of position. In one is the reclining Gautama in alabaster, in whose
+honor the pagoda was built. In others are Gautamas of brass, ivory,
+glass, clay and wood. Before many of these shrines candles are burning
+and devotees are seated or are praying with their faces bowed to the
+stone pavement. On one side of the platform is a row of miniature
+pagodas, all encrusted with decoration of gold and precious stones, the
+gifts of thousands of pious devotees. Among these shrines are many small
+bells which are rung by worshippers when they deposit their offerings,
+and one great bell (the third largest in the world, weighing forty-two
+and one-fourth tons), given by King Tharrawaddy.
+
+The eyes of the visitor are wearied with the splendid decoration of the
+chapels, the gilding, the carving, the inlaid glass work. It seems as
+though there was no end to the rows on rows of Buddhas in every
+conceivable position. Interspersed among them are tall poles from which
+float long streamers of bamboo bearing painted historical pictures,
+including those of the capture of the pagoda by the British. Thousands
+crowd these platforms. Some offer gifts to various shrines, others say
+prayer after prayer, still others strike bells to give warning to evil
+spirits that they have offered up their petitions to Buddha, others hang
+eagerly on the words of fortune tellers. All buy food and drink and the
+whole place suggests in its good cheer a country picnic rather than a
+pilgrimage to the greatest Buddhist shrine in the world.
+
+When one has left the pagoda he bears the memory of magnificent
+decorations, of vast crowds, but of little real reverence. The great
+golden pagoda itself is the dominating feature in every view of Rangoon,
+just as the Washington monument dominates all other structures in
+Washington.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXV
+
+      Queen's Road in
+   Hongkong. This is One
+   of the Most Picturesque
+   Streets in the Orient,
+   With Large Stores and
+  Splendid Gilded Signs on
+  Each Side. The Buildings
+     Are so Constructed
+     That the Sidewalk
+      Becomes a Shaded
+          Arcade]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVI
+
+    Flower Market in a
+   Hongkong Street--One
+     of the Prettiest
+  Sights in Hongkong, as
+  Orchids, Irises, Lilies
+  and Other Blossoms Are
+     Always on Sale]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVII
+
+    Coolies Carrying
+  Burdens at Hongkong.
+  Chinese Coolies Using
+   the Bamboo Pole Are
+    a Common Sight in
+  Hongkong. They Carry
+    Several Hundred
+   Pounds, Moving at
+      a Dog Trot]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXVIII
+
+  The Spacious Foreign
+    Bund at Hongkong,
+  With the Row of Lofty
+   Business Buildings.
+   The Ferry Takes One
+     to Kowloon, the
+  Native City, Opposite
+        Hongkong]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXIX
+
+      Chinese Junks in
+   Hongkong Harbor, These
+     Junks, With Their
+  Curious Sails of Matting
+     and Bamboo Spars,
+      Form One of the
+     Features of Every
+     Chinese Harbour or
+          Sea View]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXX
+
+  View of the Water-front
+  at Canton. This General
+     View of the Pearl
+   River and the Canton
+   Bund, or Water-front,
+    Shows the Enormous
+   Floating Population
+      on the River]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXI
+
+   The New Chinese Bund
+  at Canton. The Chinese
+    Recently Completed
+        This Bund.
+  It Contrasts Strongly
+     With the Ancient
+  Walled City, a Stone's
+    Throw in the Rear]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXII
+
+ A Confucian Festival at
+  Singapore. This Shows
+  the Elaborate Street
+     Decorations to
+     Commemorate the
+      Festival of
+    Confucius in the
+    Chinese Quarter]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIII
+
+  A Main Street in the
+   Native Quarter of
+  Singapore. The Shops
+   Are Small and the
+  Shopkeepers Live in
+  the Rooms Above. The
+  Flags Displayed Are
+    Those of the New
+    Chinese Republic]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIV
+
+      The Y. M. C. A.
+  Building at Singapore.
+  This Fine Structure Has
+   Many Counterparts in
+    the Chief Oriental
+    Cities, Where the
+  Association is Doing a
+       Great Work]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXV
+
+          The Great Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon.
+  The Finest Buddhist Temple in all Indo-China, Containing
+     Alleged Relics of Gautama. It is Gilded from Base
+       to Summit and May be Seen Forty Miles at Sea]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVI
+
+        Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda.
+  On Each Side is an Enormous Leogryph, Built of
+       Brick and Covered With Plaster. The
+           Porch Has a Superbly Carved
+                      Roof]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVII
+
+          Burmese
+    Worshipping Before
+  Shrine in the Pagoda at
+  Rangoon. These Figures,
+     Mainly Women and
+    Children, Show the
+   National Dress. Note
+      the Richness of
+     Decoration of the
+         Shrines.]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXVIII
+
+   Riverside Scene at
+  Rangoon. Here Are the
+   Native Cargo Boats
+  Which Bring Rice and
+   Other Products Down
+     the Irrawaddy.
+   Rangoon Has a Trade
+   Second Only to That
+     of Calcutta and
+         Bombay]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XXXIX
+
+  Trained Elephant Piling
+     Teak at Rangoon.
+    This Is One of the
+    Great Sights of the
+   Orient. The Elephants
+    Work in the Lumber
+      Yards Along the
+   Water-front and Lift
+     Logs That Weigh
+     One and One-Half
+           Tons]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XL
+
+         Palm Avenue, Royal Lakes, Rangoon.
+  This Characteristic View is From a Pretty Park in
+     Rangoon. It Shows the Summit of the Pagoda
+                  in the Distance]
+
+
+
+
+  INDIA, THE LAND
+  OF TEMPLES, PALACES
+  AND MONUMENTS
+
+
+CALCUTTA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF ORIENTAL CITIES
+
+Calcutta, the great commercial port of northern India and the former
+capital of the Empire, is the most beautiful Oriental city, not even
+excepting Hongkong. Its main claim to this distinction is the possession
+of the famous Maidan or Esplanade, which runs along the Hoogly river for
+nearly two miles and which far surpasses the Luneta of Manila in
+picturesqueness. The Maidan is three-quarters of a mile wide at its
+beginning and it broadens out to one and one-quarter miles in width at
+its lower end. Government House, the residence of the Viceroy, is
+opposite the northern end of the Maidan, while at the southern end is
+Belvedere, the headquarters of the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal. With
+historic Fort William on one side and most of the large hotels, the big
+clubs and the Imperial Museum on the other, the Maidan is really the
+center of all civic life. At the southeast end is the race course; not
+far away is the fine cathedral. Near by are the beautiful Eden Gardens
+(the gift of the sisters of the great Lord Auckland), which are
+noteworthy for the Burmese pagoda, transported from Prome and set up
+here on the water's edge. It is seldom that a city is laid out on such
+magnificent lines as is Calcutta. It reminds one of Washington in its
+picturesque boulevards and avenues, all finely shaded with noble mango
+trees. And it also has the distinction of green turf even in the heat
+of summer, owing to the heavy dews that refresh the grass like showers.
+
+Calcutta is associated in the minds of most readers with the infamous
+Black Hole into which one hundred and forty-six wretched white people
+were crowded on a hot night of June in 1750 and out of which only
+twenty-three emerged alive on the following morning. The Black Hole was
+the regimental jail of old Fort William and its site is now marked by a
+pavement of black marble and a tablet adjoining the fine postoffice
+building, while across the street is an imposing monument to the memory
+of the victims, whose names are all enumerated. The hole was twenty-two
+by fourteen feet, while it was only eighteen feet in height. These
+prisoners who were flung into this little jail were residents of
+Calcutta who fell into the hands of the Nawab of Murshedabad. Calcutta
+is also famous as the birthplace of Thackeray, a bust of whom ornaments
+the art gallery of the Imperial Museum. Scattered about the Maidan are
+statues of a dozen men whose deeds have shed luster on English arms or
+diplomacy.
+
+Calcutta, as the first city of India that I had seen, impressed me very
+strongly, although the native life has been colored somewhat by contact
+with British and other Europeans. Here, for the first time, one sees
+ninety-nine out of one hundred people in the streets wearing turbans.
+Here also the women mingle freely in the streets, wearing long robes
+which they wind dexterously about their bodies, leaving the lower legs
+and the right arm bare. A few cover the face, but the great majority
+leave it exposed. Many are hideously disfigured by large nose rings,
+while others have small rings or jewels set in one nostril. Nearly every
+woman wears bracelets on arms and wrists, heavy anklets and, in many
+cases, massive gold or silver rings on the big toes. In some cases what
+look like heavy necklaces are wound several times around the ankles. It
+is the custom of the lower and middle classes not to put their savings
+in a bank, but to melt down the coin and make it into bracelets or other
+ornaments, which are worn by their women. Here in Calcutta also one sees
+for the first time hundreds of men and women wearing the marks of their
+caste on their foreheads, either painted in red or marked in white with
+the ash of cow dung.
+
+Although the main streets of Calcutta are distinctly European, a walk of
+a few blocks in any direction from the main business section will bring
+you into the native or the Chinese quarter, where the streets are
+narrow, the houses low between stories and the shops mere holes in the
+wall, with only a door for ventilation. In one quarter every store is
+kept by a Chinese and here a large amount of manufacturing is done. In
+other quarters natives are carrying on all kinds of manufacture, in the
+same primitive way that they worked two thousand years ago. The
+carpenter uses tools that are very much like those in an American boy's
+box of toy tools; the shoemaker does all the work of turning out a
+finished shoe from the hide of leather on his wall. Outside these stores
+in the street the most common beast of burden is a small bullock of the
+size and color of a Jersey cow; These little animals pull enormous
+loads, and they are so clever that when they see an electric car
+approaching they will start on the run and clear the track.
+
+Many of the houses in the native quarter of Calcutta are built of adobe,
+with earthen tiles, which make them bear a strong resemblance to the
+adobe dwellings of the Spanish-Californians before the American
+occupation. In many cases very little straw is used in this adobe, for
+the walls have frequently crumbled away under the heavy rains of winter.
+Other houses are built of brick, faced with plaster, which is either
+painted or whitewashed.
+
+What impresses any visitor is the squalor and the wretchedness of these
+homes of India's poor. The clothing of a whole family is not worth one
+American dollar, while about ten cents in our money will feed a family
+of four. The houses have no furniture, except a bed of the most
+primitive pattern, made of latticed reeds; the smoke from the cooking
+fire goes up through the roof or else finds its way out the open door;
+seldom are there any windows, all the air coming in at the open door;
+the floor of the house is of dirt and on this squat father and mother
+and the children, with the family goat. In the small shops work is
+carried on seven days in the week until nine or ten o'clock at night,
+with an hour for lunch and siesta at midday. The hopelessness of the lot
+of the Hindoo (who is bound by rigid caste rules to follow in the
+footsteps of his father) can never be appreciated until one has seen him
+here in his native land.
+
+For two hours I watched scores of natives taking a wash at the large,
+free bathing ghat near the pontoon bridge. On the river front is a
+restaurant, and back of this steps lead down to a spacious platform on
+the level of the river. A score of men and boys and one woman were
+taking a bath in the dirty water, which was thick with mud washed up by
+passing steamers. A few of these bathers had rented towels from an
+office on the stairs, but the great majority simply rubbed themselves
+with their hands and then dried in the sun. All washed their faces in
+the dirty water and rinsed their mouths with it. The men took off their
+loin clothes and washed these out, then wrapped them about their bodies
+and came out dripping water. The lone woman was very fat. She waded into
+the water and when she came out her thin robe clung to her massive form
+revealing all its curves. She calmly took a seat on the stairs and
+proceeded to massage her head.
+
+The most interesting place near Calcutta is the Royal Botanical Gardens,
+situated on the opposite side of the river and about six miles from
+town. These gardens were laid out in 1786 and they vie with the botanic
+gardens at Singapore in the variety of trees and shrubs from all parts
+of the tropics. Here is the great banyan tree which covers one thousand
+square feet and is one hundred and forty-two years old. At a height of
+five and one-half feet from the ground the circumference of the main
+trunk is fifty-one feet; the height is eighty-five feet, while it has
+five hundred and seventy aerial roots, which have actually taken root in
+the ground. The tree at a little distance looks like a small grove.
+
+The Imperial Museum at Calcutta is well worth a couple of hours, for it
+contains one of the finest collections of antiquities in the Orient. The
+museum is housed in an enormous building facing the Maidan, which has a
+frontage of three hundred feet and a depth of two hundred and seventy
+feet. In the ethnological gallery are arranged figures of all the native
+races of India with their costumes; agricultural implements, fishing and
+hunting appliances, models of Indian village life, specimens of ancient
+and modern weapons and many other exhibits. Another room that will repay
+study is a gallery containing old steel and wood engravings of the great
+characters in the mutiny, with busts of Clive, Havelock, Outram and
+Nicholson, and with a life-size bust of Thackeray.
+
+
+BATHING AND BURNING THE DEAD AT BENARES
+
+It is estimated that one million pilgrims visit the sacred city of
+Benares every year, and it is these pilgrims that furnish the largest
+income which the city receives from any source. Here are the most holy
+shrines of Buddhism; here Vishnu and Siva have their strongholds, and
+here must come Hindoos from all parts of India to bathe in the sacred
+waters of the Ganges and to offer up prayers at the many holy shrines in
+the city's temples.
+
+Benares is sacred because here Buddha first made his residence. The
+place that he selected was ancient Sarnath, six miles from Benares,
+which is now a heap of ruins, in which British government experts are
+delving for remains of the great city that was founded six centuries
+before the Christian era. At Sarnath Buddha built a great temple and
+founded a school from which his disciples spread to all parts of India.
+But after 750 A.D. Buddhism disappeared gradually from India, and
+Hindooism took its place. The fine temples that now line the Ganges for
+three miles were built by Maratha princes in the seventeenth century.
+They also built the scores of bathing ghats that now furnish one of the
+most picturesque spectacles that the world affords. A ghat in Hindustani
+is a stone stairway that leads down to the water, and Benares has a
+succession of these magnificent stairways leading down to the Ganges,
+overlooked by palaces of many Maharajas and temples built by rulers and
+priests. No sight more splendid could be conceived than that of these
+domes and minarets flashing in the rays of the early morning sun while
+thousands of devout believers crowd the bathing ghats and offer prayers
+to Vishnu, after they have bathed in the waters of the Ganges; and
+mourning relatives burn the bodies of their dead after these have had
+the sacred water poured over their faces.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     Hindoos Bathing in the Ganges at Benares.
+  This is a View of the Dasaswamedh Ghat, the Most
+   Popular Bathing Place in the Sacred City. Note
+       the Holy Men Under the Umbrellas, Who
+            Take Tribute of All Bathers]
+
+The visitor who wishes to see the pious Hindoos bathe in the Ganges goes
+to the river in the early morning soon after the sun has risen. He
+descends one of the large ghats and takes a boat, in which he may be
+rowed down the river past the bathing ghats and the one ghat where the
+dead are burned. The scene is one that will never be forgotten. Against
+the clear sky is outlined a succession of domes and spires that mark the
+position of a score of sacred shrines, with two slender minarets that
+rise from the mosque built by the great Moslem Emperor, Aurunzeb. The
+sunlight flashes on these domes and spires and it lights up thousands of
+bathing floats and stands that line the muddy banks of the river. The
+floats are dotted with hundreds of bathers and the number of these
+increases every few minutes. They come by hundreds down the great stone
+stairways to their favorite bathing places, where, after a thorough
+bath, they may be shaved or massaged or may listen to the expounding of
+the Hindoo sacred books by a learned Brahmin sitting in the shade of a
+huge umbrella. A characteristic feature of this hillside is the number
+of these large umbrellas, each of which marks the place of a priest or a
+holy man who has done some marvels of penance that give him a strong
+hold on the superstitious natives and induce them to pay him well for
+prayers or a sacred talisman.
+
+With my boat moored near the bank and directly opposite the Manikarnika
+ghat, the favorite place on the river, I watched the stream of bathers
+for nearly an hour. The fanatical devotion that will induce a reasonable
+human being to bathe in the waters of the Ganges seems incredible to
+anyone from the Western World. The water of the sacred river is here of
+the consistency of pea soup. The city's sewer pipes empty into the
+Ganges just above the bathing ghats, and the current carries this filth
+directly to the place which the Hindoos have selected for their rites.
+The water is not only muddy and unclean, but it offends the nose. Yet
+Hindoos of good family bathe here side by side with the poverty
+stricken. They use the mud of the Ganges in lieu of soap; they scrub
+their bodies thoroughly, and then they actually take this foul-smelling
+water in their mouths and clean their teeth with it. This creed of
+Buddha is a pure democracy, for there is no distinction of class in
+bathing. Women bathe by the side of men, although they remain covered
+with the gauze-like garments that are a sop to modesty.
+
+The Manikarnika ghat is the most picturesque of all these bathing places
+along the Ganges, as the long flight of stone steps is in good
+preservation and the background of temples and palaces satisfies the
+eye. The river front for thirty feet is densely crowded with bathers who
+stand on small floats or go into the shallow water. With a Western crowd
+so dense as this there would be infringments of individual rights that
+would lead to quarrels and fights, but the Hindoo is slow to anger, and,
+like the Japanese, he has great courtesy for his fellows. Hundreds
+bathed at the ghat while I watched them and no trouble ensued. Nothing
+could be more striking, nothing more Oriental than the picture of scores
+of bathers, in bright-hued garments, moving up and down these long
+flights of massive steps. In the background were a half-dozen temples,
+the most noteworthy of which is the red-domed temple of the Rajah of
+Amethi, whose beautiful palace overlooks this scene. Near the water is a
+curious leaning temple, whose foundations were evidently unsettled by
+the severe earthquake which destroyed several temples farther down the
+river.
+
+The busiest men on these bathing ghats are the Hindoo priests, who reap
+a harvest from the hundreds of pilgrims who visit the ghats during the
+day. These priests cannot be escaped by the poorest Hindoo. They levy
+toll from every one who descends these long flights of stairs. One
+fellow I watched as he sat under his great umbrella. He had his sacred
+books spread before him, but he was given no leisure for reading them,
+as a constant stream of clients passed before him. Some of these were
+regular daily visitors from Benares, who pay a certain rate every week
+or every month, according to their financial standing. Others were
+pilgrims who, in their enthusiasm over the sacred Ganges (which they had
+traveled hundreds of miles to bathe in), were not careful in regard to
+their fees. Others were mourning relatives who applied for prayers for
+the corpse which they had brought to the waterside, and still others
+demanded hurried prayers for the dying, whose last breath would be drawn
+by the bank of the sacred river. Incidentally the priests sold charms
+and amulets guaranteed to bring good fortune. Most of the payments were
+in copper pice, four of which make one of our cents, but many of these
+priests had great heaps of this coin in front of them, showing that
+though India may be suffering from a bad harvest the faker may always
+feed on the fat of the land.
+
+The spectacle, however, which stamps Benares upon the memory is the
+burning of the dead at a ghat by the Ganges. This ghat is reserved
+exclusively for the cremation of Hindoo dead. No Mussulman can use it.
+It was about eight o'clock in the morning when my boat reached this
+burning ghat. Already one body had been placed on a funeral pyre of
+wood. The guide said this body was that of a poor man who had no
+relatives or friends, as the place where the relatives sit until the
+cremation is complete was empty. Soon, however, two men came rushing
+down the stone steps with a corpse strapped to a bamboo stretcher. The
+body was that of a woman, dressed in red garments, which signified that
+she was a married woman. Unmarried women are arrayed in yellow and other
+colors, while men must be content with white. The stretcher-bearers
+placed their burden with its feet in the Ganges and then went in search
+of wood which is purchased from a dealer. Soon they had a supply, which
+they piled up in the form of a bier, and on this they placed the woman's
+corpse. Then one of the men, who, the guide said, was the dead woman's
+husband, with tears streaming from his eyes, bore some of the water of
+the Ganges to the bier, exposed the face of the dead and poured the
+sacred water upon her mouth and her eyes. Then while his companion piled
+wood above the body the husband sought the low-caste Hindoos who sell
+fire for burning the body. He soon returned with several large bundles
+of coarse straw, one of which was smoking. Seven times the husband
+passed around the bier with the smoking straw before he applied the
+flame to the wood. The fire licked greedily at the wood, and soon the
+flames had reached the body. Then the husband and his friend repaired to
+a stand near by, from which they watched the cremation.
+
+Meanwhile two other bodies had been rushed down to the water's edge. One
+was evidently that of a wealthy woman, dressed in yellow silk and borne
+by two richly garbed attendants. The other was that of an old man,
+attended by his son. The latter was very speedy in securing wood and in
+building a funeral pyre. Soon the old man's corpse was stretched on the
+bier and the son was applying the torch. He was a good-looking young
+fellow, dressed in the clean, white garments of mourning and freshly
+shaved for the funeral ceremonies. While he was burning the body of his
+father another corpse of a man was rushed down to the river's edge and
+placed upon a bier. This body was fearfully emaciated, and when the two
+attendants raised it in its white shroud, one arm that hung down limp
+was not larger than that of a healthy five-year-old boy, while the legs
+were mere skin and bones. It was an ugly sight to see the Ganges water
+poured over the face of this corpse, which was set in a ghastly grin
+with wide-open eyes. The man had evidently died while he was being
+hurried to the burning ghat, as the Hindoos believe that it is evil for
+one to die in the house. Hence most of the corpses have staring eyes, as
+they breathed their last on the way to the river.
+
+No solemnity marks this cremation by the river's edge. The relatives who
+bring down the body haggle over the price of the wood and try to cheapen
+the sum demanded by the low-caste man for fire for the burning. The
+greed of the priest who performs the last rite and who prepares the
+relatives for the cremation is an unlovely sight. All about the burning
+ghat where the poor dead are being reduced to ashes hundreds are bathing
+or washing their clothes. The spectacle that so profoundly impresses a
+stranger is to them so common as to excite no interest.
+
+
+LUCKNOW AND CAWNPORE, CITIES OF THE MUTINY
+
+Lucknow and Cawnpore are the two cities of India that are most closely
+associated in the minds of most readers with the great mutiny. The one
+recalls the most heroic defense in the history of any country; the other
+recalls the most piteous tragedy in the long record of suffering and
+death scored against the Sepoys. The British government in both of these
+cities has raised memorials to the men who gave their lives in defending
+them and, though the art is inferior in both, the story is so full of
+genuine courage, loyalty, devotion and self-sacrifice that it will
+always find eager readers. So the pilgrims to these shrines of the
+mutiny cannot fail to be touched by the relics of the men and women who
+showed heroism of the highest order. When one goes through the rooms in
+the ruined Residency at Lucknow he feels again the thrill with which he
+first read of the splendid defense made by Sir Henry Lawrence and of the
+Scotch girl who declared she heard the pipes of the Campbells a day
+before they actually broke on the ears of the beleaguered garrison. And
+when one stands in front of the site of the old well at Cawnpore, into
+which the bleeding bodies of the butchered women and children of the
+garrison were thrown, the tears come to his eyes over the terrible fate
+of these poor victims of the cruelty of Nana Sahib. The sight of these
+Indian cities also makes one appreciate more fully the tremendous odds
+against which this mere handful of English men and women contended.
+
+Lucknow is the fifth city in size in the Indian Empire. It is reached by
+a six hours' ride from Benares which is interesting, as the railroad
+runs through a good farming country, in which many of the original trees
+have been left. Lucknow at the outbreak of the mutiny was fortunate in
+the possession of one of the ablest army commanders in the Indian
+service. Sir Henry Lawrence, when he saw that mutiny was imminent,
+gathered a large supply of stores and ammunition in the Residency at
+Lucknow. When the siege began Lawrence found himself in a well-fortified
+place, with large supplies. About one thousand refugees were in the
+Residency and the safety of these people was due largely to the massive
+walls of the building and to the skill and courage with which the
+defense was handled. In reading the story of this siege of five months,
+from June to November, it seems incredible that a small garrison could
+withstand so constant a bombardment of heavy guns and so harassing a
+fire of small arms; but when you go through the Residency the reason is
+obvious. Here are the ruins of a building erected by an old Arab chief
+during the Mohammedan rule in Lucknow. The walls are from three to five
+feet in thickness, of a kind of flat, red brick like the modern tile.
+When laid up well in good mortar such walls are as solid as though built
+of stone. What added to the safety of the building was the great
+underground apartments, built originally for summer quarters for the old
+Moslem's harem, but used during the siege as a retreat for the women and
+children. So well protected were these rooms that only one shell ever
+penetrated them and this shot did no damage. The building reveals
+traces of the heavy fire to which it was subjected, but in no case were
+the walls broken down.
+
+The story of the siege of Lucknow has been told by poets and prose
+writers for over a half century, but the theme is still full of
+interest. Tennyson dealt with it in a ballad that is full of fire, each
+verse ending with the spirited refrain:
+
+    And ever upon the topmost roof the banner of England blew.
+
+All that it is necessary to do here is to refresh the reader's memory
+with the salient events. The besieged were admirably handled by
+competent officers and they beat off repeated attacks by the mutineers
+(who outnumbered them more than one hundred to one). Lawrence was
+fatally wounded on July the second and died two days later. In September
+General Havelock, after desperate fighting, made his way into Lucknow,
+but his force was so small that only fifteen hundred men were added to
+the garrison. It was not until November the seventeenth that the
+garrison was finally relieved by the union of forces under Havelock and
+Outram and Sir Colin Campbell. Never in the history of warfare has a
+garrison had to endure greater hardships than that of Lucknow. Incessant
+attacks by night and day kept the small force worn out by constant guard
+duty and, to add to their miseries, intense heat was made more merciless
+by swarms of flies. When one bears in mind that the Indian summer brings
+heat of from one hundred and ten to one hundred and forty degrees it may
+be seen how great was the courage of the garrison that could fight
+bravely and cheerfully under such heavy odds. The memorial tablets at
+Lucknow, Delhi, Cawnpore and other places bear witness to this heroism
+of the British soldier during the mutiny, but you do not fully
+appreciate this splendid courage until you see the country and feel the
+power of its sun.
+
+Cawnpore, which is only three hours' ride from Lucknow, is another city
+of India that recalls the saddest tragedy of the mutiny. Here it was
+that bad judgment of the general in charge led to great suffering and
+the final butchery of all except a few of the residents. Sir Hugh
+Wheeler, a veteran officer, wisely doubted the fidelity of the Sepoys
+and decided to establish a place where he could store supplies and
+assure a safe asylum for the women and children; but, instead of
+selecting the magazine, which was on the river and had strong walls, he
+actually went down two miles in a level plain and threw up earth
+entrenchments. This he did because he said he feared to excite the
+suspicion of the Sepoys and thus incite them to revolt. The result was
+disastrous, for the earth walls that he raised furnished poor protection
+and the place was raked by the native artillery and small arms from
+every point of the compass. A worse place to defend could not have been
+chosen, but the twenty officers and two hundred men held it against a
+horde of mutinous natives for twenty days of blazing heat. The only
+water for the little garrison was obtained under severe fire of the
+enemy from a well sixty feet deep.
+
+Finally, when the supply of provisions was nearly exhausted, General
+Wheeler agreed to surrender to the Nana Sahib, provided the men were
+allowed to carry arms and ammunition and boats were furnished for safe
+conduct down the river. Of course, the Nana accepted these terms, but it
+seems incredible that a veteran army officer should have trusted the
+lives of women and children to Sepoys who were as cruel as our own
+Apaches. The little garrison, with the wounded, the women and the
+children, was escorted down to the river and placed on barges. But when
+the order was given to push off, the treacherous Sepoys grounded the
+boats in the mud and the gunners of Nana Sahib opened fire on the
+barges. The grape shot set fire to the matting of the barges and many of
+the wounded were smothered. One boat escaped down the river, but the
+survivors were captured after several days of hardship, the men murdered
+and the women and children brought back to Cawnpore. The men in the
+other boats who survived were shot, but one hundred and twenty-five
+women and children were returned to Cawnpore as prisoners. They spent
+seven anxious days and then when Nana Sahib saw he could not hold
+Cawnpore any longer he ordered the Sepoys to shoot the English women and
+children. To the credit of these mutineers they refused to obey orders
+and fired into the ceiling of the wretched rooms where the prisoners
+were lodged. Then Nana Sahib sent for five butchers and these men, with
+their long knives, murdered the helpless victims of this monster of
+cruelty. On the following morning the bodies of dead and dying were cast
+into the well at Cawnpore. On the site of this well has been raised a
+costly memorial surmounted by a marble angel of the resurrection. The
+design is not impressive, but no one can see it without pity for the
+unfortunates who were delivered into the hands of the most atrocious
+character of modern times. The Memorial Church at Cawnpore, which cost
+one hundred thousand dollars, contains a series of tablets to those who
+fell in the mutiny.
+
+
+THE TAJ MAHAL, THE WORLD'S LOVELIEST BUILDING
+
+Agra is chiefly noteworthy for the Taj Mahal, which is acknowledged to
+be the most beautiful building in the world; though the city would be
+worthy of a visit because of the many splendid mosques and palaces built
+by the great Mogul emperors and others. In fact, Agra was the capital of
+the Mohammedan empire in north India until Aurungzeb moved it
+permanently to Delhi; hence the city is rich in specimens of the best
+Moslem work in forts, palaces, mosques and tombs.
+
+Agra has about two hundred thousand population. It is on the Jumna river
+and is almost equally distant from Calcutta and Bombay, eight hundred
+and forty-two miles from the former and eight hundred and forty-nine
+miles from the latter. It will impress any traveler by its cleanliness
+when compared with Calcutta, Benares or Lucknow. The land seems to be
+more fertile than that around any of these three cities and the standard
+of living higher. The shops are clean and bright and a specialty is made
+of gold and silver embroidery and imitation of the old Mohammedan inlay
+work in marble. Most of the fine Moslem architecture is found inside the
+ancient fort, which, with its massive wall, is in a good state of
+preservation.
+
+The Taj Mahal may be seen many times without losing any of its charm. It
+is reached by a short drive from the city and its beautiful dome and
+minarets may be seen from many parts of Agra and its suburbs. This tomb,
+built of white marble, was erected by Shah Jehan, the chief builder
+among the Mogul Emperors of India, in memory of his favorite wife,
+Arjmand Banu. She married Shah Jehan in 1615 and died fourteen years
+after, as she was giving birth to her eighth child. Shah Jehan, who had
+already built many fine palaces and mosques, determined to perpetuate
+her memory for all time by erecting the finest tomb in the world. So he
+planned the Taj, which required twenty-two years and twenty million
+dollars to build; but so well was the work done that nearly three
+hundred years have left little trace on its walls or its splendid
+decorations.
+
+This Mogul despot, who knew many women, spent an imperial fortune in
+fashioning this noblest memorial to love ever built by the hand of man.
+Incidentally he probably sacrificed twenty thousand coolies, for he
+built the Taj by forced labor, the same kind that reared the pyramids
+and carved the sphinx. All the material was brought from great
+distances. The white marble came from Jeypore and was hauled in bullock
+carts or carried by elephants; the jasper came from the Punjab, the jade
+from China and the precious stones from many parts of Central Asia, from
+Thibet to Arabia.
+
+The Emperor summoned the best architects and workers in precious stones
+of his time and asked them for designs. It is evident that many hands
+united in the plans of the building, but history gives the credit for
+the main design to a Persian. An Italian architect lent aid in the
+ornamentation and three inlaid flowers are shown to-day as specimens of
+his work. The building itself is only a shadow of its former
+magnificence--for the many alien conquerors of India have despoiled in
+it in succession, taking away the solid silver gates, the diamonds,
+rubies, sapphires and other precious stones from the flower decorations,
+and even the gold and silver from the mosaic work. All the precious
+stones looted by vandal hands have been restored by imitations, which
+closely resemble the priceless originals. Restorations have also been
+made where the marble has been defaced or broken.
+
+The Taj stands in the midst of a great garden, laid out with so much
+skill that from any part of its many beautiful walks fine views may be
+had of the dome and the minarets. This garden is planted to many
+tropical trees and flowering shrubs whose foliage brings out in high
+relief the beauty of the flawless marble tomb. The main gateway of the
+garden, built of red sandstone, would be regarded as a splendid work of
+art were it not for the superior beauty of the tomb itself. The gate is
+inlaid in white marble with inscriptions from the Koran, and it is
+surmounted by twenty little marble cupolas.
+
+Once inside the gate the beauty and the majesty of the Taj strike one
+like a physical blow. Simple as is the design, so perfectly has it been
+wrought out that the building gives the impression of the last word in
+delicate and unique ornamentation. The white marble base on which the
+building rests is three hundred and thirteen feet square and rises
+eighteen feet from the ground. The tomb itself is one hundred and
+eighty-six feet square, with a dome that rises two hundred and twenty
+feet above the base. At each corner of the base is a graceful minaret of
+white marble one hundred and thirty-seven feet high. Although no color
+is used on the exterior, the decoration is so rich as to prevent all
+monotony.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  Front View of the Taj
+    Mahal, Agra. This
+      Unusual View
+     Was Taken by Mr.
+   Isaac O. Upham From
+  the Level of the Main
+   Approach. It Throws
+   Into Strong Relief
+    the Two Lines of
+   Cypresses and Gives
+  a Perfect Reproduction
+    of the Taj in the
+         Winter]
+
+In every detail the Taj satisfies the eye, with the single exception of
+the work on the minarets. The squares of marble that cover these
+minarets are laid in dark-colored mortar which brings out strongly each
+stone. It would have lent more softness to these minarets had the
+individual stones not been revealed, an effect that could have been
+secured by using white mortar. When the shades of evening fall these
+minarets are far more beautiful than by day, as they are softened by the
+wiping out of the lines about the stones. Under the strong light of the
+noonday sun the marble that covers the dome shows various shades ranging
+from light gray to pearly white, but by the soft evening light all these
+colors are merged and the dome looks like a huge soap bubble resting
+light as foam on the body of the tomb.
+
+A front photograph of the Taj gives a good idea of its effect. Standing
+at the portal of the main entrance one gets the superb effect of the
+marble pathway that borders the two canals in which the building is
+mirrored. Midway across this pathway is a broad, raised marble platform,
+with a central fountain, from which the best view of the building may be
+secured. The path on each side from this platform to the main stairway
+is bordered by a row of cypress and back of these are great mango trees
+at least twenty feet high. These should be removed and smaller trees
+substituted, as they interfere seriously with a perfect view of the
+tomb.
+
+From this platform the eye rests on the Taj with a sense of perfect
+satisfaction that is given by no other building I have ever seen. The
+very simplicity of the design aids in this effect. It seems well nigh
+impossible that a mere tomb of white marble should convey so vivid an
+impression of completeness and majesty, yet at the same time that every
+detail should suggest lightness and delicacy. The little cupolas below
+the dome as well as the pinnacles of the minarets add to this effect of
+airy grace.
+
+When one ascends the steps to the main door he begins to perceive the
+secret of this effect on the senses. Everything is planned for harmony
+and proportion. The pointed arch, of which all Moslem architects were
+enamored, is shown in the main doorway and in the principal windows of
+the front. This doorway rises almost to the full height of the tomb and
+on each side are recessed windows, with beautifully pointed tops.
+
+All the angles and spandrels of the building are inlaid with precious
+stones as well as with texts from the Koran. In the center of the
+building is an octagonal chamber, twenty-four feet on each side, with
+various rooms around it devoted to the imperial tombs. A dome,
+fifty-eight feet in diameter, rises to a height of eighty feet, beneath
+which, inclosed by a trellis-work screen of white marble, are the tombs
+of the Favorite of the Palace and of the great Emperor. The Emperor,
+with a touch of the Oriental despot, has made his tomb a little larger
+than that of the woman whom he honored in this unique fashion. The
+delicate tracery in marble, so characteristic of Mogul work of the
+sixteenth century, is seen here at its best, as well as the inlays of
+the lotus and other flowers in sapphire, turquoise and other stones. The
+effect is highly decorative and at the same time chaste and subdued. A
+feature which impresses every visitor is the remarkable trellis work in
+marble. A solid slab of marble, about six feet by four and about two
+inches in thickness, is used as a panel. This is cut out into many
+designs that remind one of fine old lace. These panels abound in every
+important room of the Taj.
+
+The Taj has suffered little serious damage from the conquerors who
+successively despoiled it of its wealth of precious stones. The places
+of these jewels have been supplied with imitations which are almost as
+effective as the originals. In a few instances the marble has been
+chipped or broken, but, through the generosity of Lord Curzon, these
+blemishes have been removed, and the whole structure exists to-day
+almost as it did three hundred years ago when Akbar's grandson completed
+it and found it good.
+
+The Taj should be seen by day and again at nightfall. In the full glare
+of the brilliant Indian sun the dome and the minarets stand out with
+extraordinary clearness, yet the lightness and buoyancy of the dome is
+not injured by the fierce light. Seen at sundown the Taj is at its best.
+All the lines are softened; the minarets and the perfect dome give an
+appearance of lightness and grace not of this world; they suggest the
+cloud-capped towers and gorgeous palaces of the poet's vision. As the
+afterglow fades, the Taj takes on an air of mystery and aloofness; the
+perfect lines melt into one another and the whole structure is blurred
+as though it were seen in a dream. Then one bids adieu to the world's
+perfect building, thankful that he has been given the opportunity to
+enjoy the greatest marvel of architecture, which leaves on the mind the
+same impression left by splendid music or the notes of a great singer.
+Words are poor to describe things like the Taj, which become our
+cherished possessions and may be recalled to cheer hours of despondency
+or grief.
+
+
+DELHI AND ITS ANCIENT MOHAMMEDAN RUINS
+
+Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital of India, is an interesting city, not
+only because of its present-day life but because it contains so many
+memorials of the Mohammedan conquest of the country. The ancient Moslem
+emperors were men who did things. Above all else they were builders, who
+constructed tombs, palaces and mosques that have survived for nearly
+four hundred years. They builded for all time, rearing massive walls of
+masonry that the most powerful British guns during the mutiny were
+unable to batter down. They built their own tombs in such enduring
+fashion that we may look upon them to-day as they were when these
+despots completed them. Akbar, Shah Jehan, Humayan and Aurungzeb each
+erected scores of buildings that have survived the ravages of time and
+the more destructive work of greedy mercenaries in time of war. In and
+around Delhi are scores of these tombs in various stages of decay. Those
+which have been cared for are splendid specimens of the best
+architecture of the sixteenth century.
+
+Indian brick is the cheapest building material in the world. The Indian
+brick of to-day looks very much like the cheapest brick used in American
+cities to fill in the inside of walls; but the brick made in the time of
+Shah Jehan and Humayan and used by them was a flat tile brick, hard as
+stone, set in mortar that has resisted the elements for over three
+hundred years. When the roofs of these Moslem tombs and palaces fell in,
+then the work of disintegration followed rapidly. The plaster scaled off
+the front and sides, and the rows on rows of brick were exposed; but it
+is astonishing that these massive walls have not crumbled to dust in all
+these years. In most cases the imposing arched doorways of red sandstone
+have survived. These doorways, beautifully arched, may be seen on both
+sides of the road leading out of Delhi to the old city, eleven miles
+distant, which was the capital of the Mogul emperors until Aurungzeb
+moved it to Delhi. In a radius of fifteen miles from Delhi tombs and
+palaces that cost hundreds of millions of rupees were built by these
+Moslem despots and their viceroys. Most of them are now in ruins, but
+from the top of the Kutab Minar one may count a score of tombs with
+their domes and cupolas still intact. Into these tombs was poured much
+of the treasure wrung from the poverty-stricken Hindoo tillers of the
+soil.
+
+Few sights in this world are more impressive than this birdseye view of
+the remains of the Mogul emperors who ruled northern India for over
+three centuries. In one of the poorest and the most densely populated
+countries of the world these despots reared marvels of architecture
+which have amazed modern experts. They accomplished these wonders in
+stone mainly because, with power of life and death, they were able to
+impress thousands of coolies and force them to rear the walls of their
+palaces and tombs. Building materials were very cheap, so that most of
+the treasure expended by these rulers went into the elaborate
+ornamentation of walls and ceilings with precious stones and carved
+ivory and marble. No description that I have ever read gives any
+adequate idea of the number and the massiveness of these remains of
+bygone imperial splendor, and this magnificence is made more impressive
+by contrast with the squalid poverty of the common people--the tillers of
+the soil, the drawers of water, who live in wretched huts, with earthen
+floors, no windows and no comforts. These dwellings are crowded together
+in small villages; the family cow or goat occupies a part of the
+dwelling, a small fire gives warmth only to one standing directly over
+it, and the smoke pours out the open door or filters through holes in
+the thatched roof.
+
+As the native lived three hundred years ago so does he live to-day. He
+uses kerosene instead of the old nut or fish oil, but that is almost the
+only change. In the cultivation of the soil and in all kinds of
+manufacture the same methods are in use now as when Akbar wrested North
+India from its Hindoo rulers. The same crude bullock carts carry produce
+to Delhi, with wheels that have felloes a foot thick and only four
+spokes. Many of these wheels have no tires. In some cases camels supply
+the place of bullocks as beasts of burden, especially in the dry country
+north of Delhi. The coolie draws water from the wells for irrigation
+just as his ancestors did three centuries ago. He uses bullocks on an
+arastra that turns over a big wheel with a chain of buckets. On small
+farms this work is done by men. All the processes of irrigation are
+ancient and cumbersome and would not be tolerated for a day in any land
+where labor is valuable.
+
+Delhi is very rich in memorials of the Mogul conquerors. Near the Lahore
+gate is the palace, one of the noblest remains of the Mohammedan period.
+A vaulted arcade leads to the outer court, at one end of which is a
+splendid band gallery, with a dado of red sandstone, finely carved. On
+the farther side is the Dwan-i-'Am or Hall of Public Audience, with
+noble arches and columns, at the back of which, in a raised recess, the
+emperor sat on his peacock throne, formed of two peacocks, with bodies
+and wings of solid gold inlaid with rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Over
+it was a canopy of gold supported by twelve pillars, all richly
+ornamented. This magnificent work was taken away by Nadir Pasha. The
+palace contains many other beautiful rooms, among which may be mentioned
+the royal apartments, with a marble channel in the floor, through which
+rosewater flowed to the queen's dressing-room and bath.
+
+The most notable mosque in Delhi is the Jama Mashid, built of red
+sandstone and white marble. It has a noble entrance and a great
+quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, with a fountain
+in the center. In a pavilion in one corner are relics of Mohammed, shown
+with great apparent reverence to the skeptical tourist. Near by is the
+Kalar Masjid or Black Mosque, built in the style of the early Arabian
+architecture.
+
+Eleven miles from Delhi are many tombs of the Mogul emperors, including
+the Kutab Minar or great column of red sandstone, with a fine mosque
+near at hand. Kutab was a viceroy when he began this splendid column,
+two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, with a base diameter of
+forty-seven feet three inches. The first three stories are of red
+sandstone and the two upper stories are faced with white marble. The
+summit, which is reached by three hundred and seventy-nine steps, gives
+a superb view of the surrounding country, with its many fine Moslem
+tombs.
+
+On the way to the Kutab Minar a number of fine Mohammedan tombs are
+passed, chief of which is the tomb of Emperor Humayan, one of the
+greatest of the Moslem builders. Of all the buildings that I saw in
+India this approaches most closely in beauty the incomparable Taj Mahal.
+Of red sandstone, with white marble in relief, its windows are recessed
+and the lower doors filled in with stone and marble lattice work of
+great beauty. The tomb is an octagon and in the central chamber is the
+great emperor's cenotaph of plain white marble. Not far away are the
+shrines and tombs of many Mohammedan emperors and saints.
+
+Delhi saw some of the fiercest fighting during the mutiny. The
+rebellious natives drove the Europeans out of the city, slaughtering
+those who were unable to escape. Thousands of mutineers also flocked to
+Delhi from Lucknow, Cawnpore and other places. General Bernard, in
+command of the English troops that came from Simla, attacked the
+mutineers on June sixth and gained an important victory, as it gave the
+British possession of "The Ridge," a lofty outcropping of ancient rock,
+which was admirably designed for defense and for operations against the
+city. Troops were posted all along the Ridge and in Hindoo Rao's house,
+a massive building belonging to a loyal native. This building was the
+center of many fierce engagements, but it was not until September that
+enough troops were collected to make it safe to assault Delhi.
+Brigadier-General John Nicholson had arrived from the Punjab and urged
+immediate attack on the city. Nicholson was the greatest man the mutiny
+produced. Tall, magnetic, dominating, he enforced his will upon every
+one. Even Lord Roberts, who was then a young subaltern and not easily
+impressed by rank or achievement, records that he never spoke to
+Nicholson without feeling the man's enormous will power and energy.
+Finally, on September thirteenth, the British guns having made breaches
+in the city walls, two forces (one under Nicholson, the other under
+Colonel Herbert) stormed the place. The Kabul gate was soon taken, but
+the defense of the Lahore gate proved more stubborn. The soldiers
+wavered under the deadly fire, when Nicholson rushed forward to lead
+them. His great height made him a target and he fell, shot through the
+body. A whole week of severe fighting followed before every portion of
+Delhi was captured. Nicholson died three days after the British secured
+complete control of the city. His death was mourned as greatly as the
+death of Sir Henry Lawrence at Lucknow.
+
+The Kashmir, Kabul and Lahore gates at Delhi are interesting because
+they were the scenes of many acts of heroism during the mutiny. On the
+Ridge a massive but ugly stone memorial has been erected to those who
+fell in the mutiny. The position is fine but the monument, like all the
+other memorials of the mutiny, is not impressive because of its poor
+design. Other interesting objects which recall incidents in this great
+struggle against the Sepoys are suitably inscribed.
+
+
+SCENES IN BOMBAY WHEN THE KING ARRIVED
+
+The ancient city of Bombay, the gateway of India and the largest
+commercial metropolis of the empire, was in festival garb because of the
+visit of the King and Queen of England. Fully four hundred thousand
+people came in from the surrounding country to see their rulers from
+over the sea and to enjoy the novel spectacle of illuminated buildings,
+decorative arches, military processions and fireworks. Hence Bombay was
+seen at its best in its strange mixture of races and costumes. In this
+respect it is more Oriental and more picturesque than Singapore.
+
+The first thing that impresses a stranger is the number, size and beauty
+of the public buildings. The Town Hall looks not unlike many American
+city structures--as it is classic, with Doric pillars and an imposing
+flight of steps; but nearly all the other buildings are of Indian
+architecture, with cupolas and domes, recessed windows and massive,
+pointed gateways. They are built of a dark stone, and the walls (three
+and four feet in thickness) seem destined to last forever. The rooms are
+from sixteen to twenty feet in height; above the tall doors and windows
+are transoms; the floors are of mosaic or stone; everything about the
+buildings appears designed to endure. The streets are very wide and the
+sidewalks are arranged under colonnades in front of the buildings, so
+that one may walk an entire block without coming out into the fierce
+Indian sunshine.
+
+All the main streets converge into the Apollo Bunder, a splendid
+driveway like the Maidan in Calcutta. It sweeps around the sea wall and
+if any breeze is stirring in Bombay one may get it here at nightfall.
+From six o'clock to eight thirty or nine o'clock all Bombay turns out
+for a drive on the Apollo Bunder. The line of fine carriages and motor
+cars is continuous for miles, going out the Esplanade to Queen's road,
+which runs for five miles to Malabar head, the favorite residence place
+of the wealthy foreign colony. What will astonish any one accustomed to
+Calcutta and other East Indian cities is the large representation of
+Parsee families in this evening dress parade. Two-thirds of the finest
+equipages belong to the Parsees, who are very richly dressed in silks
+and adorned with fortunes in diamonds, rubies and other precious stones.
+Here and there may be distinguished rich Hindoos or Mohammedans out for
+an airing. The women of the latter sect are concealed behind the
+carriage covers, but the Hindoo and Parsee women show their faces, their
+jewelry and their beautiful costumes with evident pleasure. Nearly all
+these women wear fortunes in diamonds in their ears or in bracelets on
+their arms. In no dress parade in any other city have I noted so many
+large diamonds, rubies and emeralds as in this procession of carriages
+in Bombay.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+     One of the Main
+    Avenues of Bombay.
+    This Broad Street
+    Leads to the City
+     Market. The View
+     Shows the Florid
+  Architecture of Public
+    Buildings and the
+    Variety of Native
+        Costumes]
+
+Another thing that impresses the stranger in Bombay is the sympathy and
+the good feeling that seems to exist between the leading Europeans of
+the city and the prominent natives. This is in great contrast to the
+exclusiveness that marks the Briton in other East Indian cities. Here
+the President and a majority of the members of the Municipal Council
+are Parsees; while a number of Hindoos and Mohammedans are represented.
+When the King and Queen of England were received, the address of welcome
+was read by the Parsee President of the Council, while a bouquet was
+presented to the Queen by the President's wife, dressed in her graceful
+sari or robe of ecru silk, edged with a black border, heavy with
+ornamental gold work. This mingling of the races in civic life is due to
+the domination of the Parsee element, which came over to Bombay from
+Persia three hundred years ago, when driven from their old homes by
+Moslem intolerance. Here these people, who strongly resemble the Jews in
+their fondness for trade and their skill in finance, have amassed
+imperial fortunes. The richest of these Parsee bankers and merchants,
+Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, left much of his great fortune to charity. He
+founded a university, schools and hospitals and his name figures on a
+dozen fine buildings. Other prominent Parsee families are the Sassoons
+and Jehangirs. Yet, despite their wealth and their association with
+Europeans, the Parsees have kept themselves unspotted from the world.
+They do not recognize any mingling of their blood with the foreigner. A
+Parsee who marries a European woman must accept virtual expatriation,
+while the wife (although she may bear him children) is never allowed any
+of the privileges of a native woman in this life and when she dies her
+body cannot be consigned to the Parsee burial place. She is always an
+alien and nothing that she can do is able to break down this racial wall
+that separates her from her husband's people. The marriage of Parsee
+women to foreigners is practically unknown. The Parsee wears a
+distinctive costume. The men dress in white linen or pongee trousers,
+with coat of dark woolen or alpaca; they like foreign shirts and
+collars, but their headgear is the same as that used by the refugees
+from Persia over three hundred years ago. One cap is of lacquered
+papier-mache in the form of a cow's hoof inverted. Another is a round
+cap of gray cloth, finely made, worn over a skull cap of velvet or
+embroidered cloth, which is worn indoors. The women wear the sari or
+robe, which consists of one piece of silk or brocade, with an
+embroidered band. This garment is draped around the body and brought up
+over the head, covering the right ear. They all wear shoes and
+stockings.
+
+The Parsees are all well educated and most of them possess unusual
+refinement. So strong is the pride of race among them that they do not
+tolerate any mendicancy among their own people. Their charitable
+associations care for the few Parsees who are unable to make a living,
+so that their paupers never make any claim upon the municipal government
+for aid. They also boast that none of their women may be found among the
+denizens of the red-light district. Most of the educated Parsees speak
+English, French and German, besides Gugerati (the native dialect) and
+most of them read and write English, Gugerati and Urdu, which is the
+written form of Hindustani. Yet the Parsees are genuine Orientals. They
+sit on chairs, but most of their houses are scantily furnished. They are
+remarkably fond of sweets, fruits and nuts. They seem insensible to the
+surroundings of their homes, many living in crowded streets and up many
+flights of stairs. In their homes all their treasures are kept in the
+family safe. If you are fortunate enough to be received in one of these
+Parsee homes you will be amazed at the wealth in jewelry and personal
+ornaments which are possessed even by families of modest fortune. A
+Parsee woman of this class will have invested five thousand dollars in
+jewelry, much of which she will wear on festive occasions.
+
+Many of the big shipping and cotton merchants of Bombay are Parsees and
+they also control much of the banking of the city. It was due largely to
+the liberality of the Parsees that the city of Bombay was able to
+present to the King a memorial in gold and silver that cost seventeen
+thousand rupees, or over five thousand five hundred dollars in American
+money. This reception to the King and Queen when they landed at Bombay
+on their way to Delhi Durbar was very typical of the life of the city.
+Remarkable preparations had been made; a series of arches spanned the
+principal streets, all designed in native style. At the end of the
+Apollo Bunder was erected a pretty, white pavilion that looked like a
+miniature Taj, while a splendid avenue, lined with pillars, led up to
+the great amphitheater, in front of which, under an ornate pavilion,
+were the golden thrones of the King and Queen. This amphitheater was
+reserved for all the European and native notables, as well as the
+Maharajahs and chiefs from the neighboring States.
+
+After the reception to the royal party came a parade through the
+principal streets and when this was concluded all restrictions were
+relaxed and the populace and the visitors from surrounding towns gave
+themselves up to an evening of enjoyment. The buildings were
+illuminated, some with white and others with red electric lights, while
+many large structures were lighted by little oil lamps, in a cup or
+glass. The main streets were filled with long lines of carriages,
+crowded with richly dressed natives and Europeans, although the natives
+outnumbered the foreigners by one hundred to one. Never in my life have
+I seen so many valuable jewels as on this night, when I roamed about
+the streets for two hours, enjoying this Oriental holiday. At times I
+would stop and sit on one of the stands and watch the crowd flow by in a
+steady stream. Walking by the side of a Parsee millionaire and his
+richly dressed family would pass a Hindoo woman of low caste, one of the
+street sweepers, in dirty rags, but loaded down on ankles and arms by
+heavy silver bangles and painted in the center of the forehead with her
+caste mark. She was followed by a poverty-stricken Mohammedan leading a
+little boy, stark naked, while a girl with brilliant cap held the boy's
+hand. A naked Tamil, with only a dirty loin cloth, brushed elbows with
+three Parsee girls, beautifully dressed. And so this purely democratic
+human tide flowed on for hours, rich and poor showing a childlike
+pleasure in the street decorations and the variegated crowd. And in the
+midst of all this turmoil native parties from out of town squatted on
+the deserted tiers of seats, ate their suppers with relish and then
+calmly composed themselves to sleep, wrapped in their robes, as though
+they were in the privacy of their own homes. It was a spectacle such as
+could be seen only in an Oriental city with a people who live in public
+with the placid unconsciousness of animals.
+
+
+RELIGION AND CUSTOMS OF THE BOMBAY PARSEES
+
+The Parsees of Bombay--a mere handful of exiles among millions of
+aliens--have so exerted their power as to change the life of a great
+city. Proscribed and persecuted, they have developed so powerfully their
+aptitude for commercial life that they represent the wealth of Bombay.
+Living up to the tenets of their creed, they have given far more
+liberally to charity and education than any other race. Some idea of the
+respect in which the Parsee is held may be gained from the fact that
+customs officers never search the baggage of one of these people; they
+take the Parsee's word that he has no dutiable goods. The commercial
+success and the high level of private life among the Parsees is due
+directly to their religion, which was founded by Zoroaster in ancient
+Persia three thousand years ago. As Max-Muller has well said, if Darius
+had overthrown Alexander of Greece, the modern world would probably have
+inherited the faith of Zoroaster, which does not differ in most of its
+essentials from the creed of Christ.
+
+The popular idea of a Parsee is that he worships the sun. This is a
+misconception, due probably to the fact that the Parsee when saying his
+prayers always faces the sun or, in default of this, prays before a
+sacred fire in his temples; but he does not worship the sun, nor any
+gods or idols. His temples are bare, only the sacred fire of sandalwood
+burning in one corner. The Parsee recognizes an overruling god,
+Ahura-Mazda, the creator of the universe; he believes that Nature with
+its remarkable laws could not have come into being without a great first
+cause. But he believes that the universe created by Ahura-Mazda was
+invaded by a spirit of evil, Angra-Mainyush, which invites men to wicked
+deeds, falsehood and ignorance. Over against this evil spirit is the
+good spirit, Spenta-Mainyush, which represents God and stands for truth,
+goodness and knowledge. The incarnation of the evil spirit is known as
+Aherman, who corresponds to the Christian devil.
+
+The whole Parsee creed is summed up in three words, which correspond to
+good thoughts, good words and good deeds. If one carries out in his life
+this creed, then his good thoughts, good words and good deeds will be
+his intercessors on the great bridge that leads the spirit from death to
+the gates of paradise. If his evil deeds and thoughts and words
+overbalance the good, then he goes straight down to the place of
+darkness and torment. If his good and evil deeds and thoughts exactly
+balance, then he passes into a kind of purgatory.
+
+Fire, water and earth are all sacred to the Parsee; but fire represents
+the principle of creation and hence is most sacred. To him fire is the
+most perfect symbol of deity because of its purity, brightness and
+incorruptibility. The sacred fire that burns constantly in the Parsee
+temples is fed with chips of sandalwood. Prayer with the Parsee is
+obligatory, but it need not be said in the fire temple; the Parsee may
+pray to the sun or moon, the mountains or the sea. His prayer is first
+repentance for any evil thoughts or deeds and then for strength to lead
+a life of righteousness, charity and good deeds.
+
+The most remarkable result of the Parsee religion is seen in the
+education of children. This is made a religious duty, and neglect of it
+entails terrible penalties--for the parents are responsible for the
+offenses of the badly-educated child, just as they share in the merit
+for good deeds performed by their children. It is the duty of a good
+Parsee not only to educate his own children but to do all in his power
+to help in general education. Hence the large benefactions that rich
+Parsees have made to found institutions for the education of the poor.
+Disobedience of children is one of the worst sins. The Parsees are also
+taught to observe sanitary laws, to bathe frequently, to take all
+measures to prevent the spread of contagion. Cleanliness is one of the
+chief virtues. To keep the earth pure the Parsee is enjoined to
+cultivate it. He is also admonished to drink sparingly of wine and not
+to sell it to any one who uses liquor to excess.
+
+The Parsee creed urges the believer to help the community in which he
+lives and to give freely to charity. Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, the
+richest Parsee Bombay has known, set aside a fund of four million seven
+hundred and forty-three thousand rupees for charity and benevolence
+among all the people of his city, regardless of race or creed. The
+Parsee gives liberally to charity on the occasion of weddings or of
+deaths. The charity includes relieving the poor, helping a man to marry
+and aiding poor children to secure an education. The influence of the
+Parsee religion upon the literature and life of the people is very
+marked. There is no room for atheism, agnosticism or materialism. Faith
+in the existence of God and in the immortality of the soul is the
+corner-stone of the creed, but the Parsee spends no money and no effort
+in proselyting others.
+
+Marriage is encouraged by the Parsee religion, because it encourages a
+virtuous and religious life. The marriage ceremony is peculiar. It is
+always performed in a large pavilion, whatever the wealth of the couple.
+In the case of the rich many invitations are issued and a fine wedding
+feast is spread. On the day set for the wedding, the bride and groom and
+the invited guests assemble in the pavilion. The bride as well as the
+groom is dressed in white. When the time comes for the ceremony the
+couple sit in chairs facing each other and a sheet is held up between
+them by friends, so that they cannot see each other. Then two priests
+begin intoning the marriage service. After several prayers a cord is
+wound around the two chairs seven times and the chairs are also bound
+together with a strip of cloth. More prayers and exhortations follow,
+both priests showering rice upon the couple. Finally the sheet is
+withdrawn, they and their chairs are placed side by side, each is given
+a cocoanut to hold that is bound to the other by a string, emblematic of
+the plenty that may bless the new home, and they are declared man and
+wife. Then they sign a document certifying that they have been united
+according to the Parsee ritual and witnesses sign their names.
+
+Far stranger than the wedding customs of the Parsees are their burial
+rites. They believe that neither fire, earth nor water must be polluted
+by contact with a dead body, so neither burial nor cremation is
+permitted. Instead, they expose their dead to vultures which strip the
+flesh from the bones within an hour. This occurs in conical places,
+called towers of silence, which are shut off from human gaze. The Bombay
+towers of silence are on Malabar head, a beautiful residence district
+overlooking the city. Here, in a fine garden planted to many varieties
+of trees and shrubs, are five circular towers, each about twenty feet
+high, made of brick, covered with plaster.
+
+While you are admiring the flowers and trees a funeral enters the gates.
+The body is carried by four professional bearers and is followed by two
+priests and the relatives and friends. All the mourners are clothed in
+white. They walk two by two, no matter how distant may be the house of
+death, each couple holding a handkerchief as a symbol of their union in
+sorrow. When the procession reaches the top of the hill the mourners
+diverge and take seats in the house of prayer, where the sacred fire is
+burning, or they seat themselves in the beautiful garden for meditation
+and prayer. The priests deliver the body to the two corpse bearers, who
+throw open the great iron door and enter with the body. The floor of the
+tower is of iron grating, arranged in three circles--the outer for men,
+the next for women and the inner for children. As the bearers lay the
+body down, they strip off the shroud. Then the iron door closes with a
+clang. This is the signal for a score of vultures to swoop down upon the
+body. No human eye can see this spectacle, but the imagination of the
+visitor pictures it in all its horror. Within a few minutes the gorged
+vultures begin flapping their way to the top of the tower, where they
+roost on the outer rim.
+
+The bones of the corpse are allowed to remain for several days exposed
+to the fierce sun. Then they are thrown into a great central well, where
+the climate soon converts them into dust. This is washed by the rains
+into underground wells. Charcoal in these wells serves to filter the
+rain water before it enters the ground. Thus do the Parsees preserve
+even the earth from contamination by the ashes of the dead. No expense
+is spared by the Parsees in the construction of these towers of
+silence, which are always placed on the tops of hills. According to the
+testimony of some of the ablest medical men of England and America, who
+have examined these burial grounds, the Parsee method of disposing of
+the dead is the most sanitary that has ever been devised. It avoids even
+the fumes that are given off in cremation of the dead. It is also cheap
+and absolutely democratic, as the bones of the rich and poor mingle at
+last in the well of the tower of silence.
+
+There is nothing offensive to European taste in the towers of silence
+except the vultures. These disgusting birds, like the Indian crow, are
+protected because they are admirable scavengers. The Parsees see nothing
+offensive in exposing their dead to these birds nor apparently does it
+shock them that alien hands should bare the bodies of their beloved
+dead; but to a foreigner both these aspects of Parsee burial are
+repellant and no argument has any weight to counteract this sentiment.
+
+Many sensational accounts of these Parsee burial rites have been
+printed. Nearly every writer lays stress on the fact that pieces of the
+dead bodies are dropped by the vultures within the grounds or in the
+streets outside. This is an absurdity, as the vulture never rises on the
+wing with any carrion--he eats it on the spot and he will not leave
+until he is gorged to repletion. An effort was made several years ago to
+remove these towers of silence on Malabar hill because of complaints
+that fragments of corpses were found in the neighborhood. When two
+competent medical experts investigated the matter they reported that
+there was no foundation for the complaints. So the towers have remained
+and thousands of Parsees have been borne to them for the last rites of
+their creed.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLI
+
+          One of the Main Gates to Government
+  House, Calcutta. This Gate is of Beautiful Proportions
+        and Has a Fine Lion. Government House is
+          Situated in a Fine Park of Six Acres]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLII
+
+     A Street Scene in
+     Calcutta. The New
+   Building at the Right
+  Has a Staging of Bamboo.
+      On the Left is
+   the Burka Bazaar, One
+  of the Sights of India,
+     Each Dealer Having
+    a Small Shop of His
+     Own. The Goods Are
+    Classified As in An
+    American Department
+          Store]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIII
+
+          The Great Burning Ghat at Benares.
+  Here Are Four Funeral Pyres Arranged for Burning, the
+    Heads of the Corpses May Be Detected Among the
+      Wood. The Pyre in the Middle Foreground is
+     Partly Burned. Relatives Watch the Cremation
+                From the Temple Above]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIV
+
+   View of the Bathing
+  Ghats at Benares. Here
+   May Be Seen Natives
+    Bathing in Mother
+   Ganges, While Above
+     Are the Line of
+  Splendid Palaces and
+  Temples Built by the
+    Maharaja Princes]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLV
+
+      A Holy Man of
+    Benares Under His
+    Umbrella. Each of
+  the Fakers at Benares
+  Has His Own Clientage,
+        But No One
+      Bathes Without
+   Yielding Tribute to
+      Some Holy Man]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVI
+
+     The Residency at
+    Lucknow. This, the
+     Most Impressive
+   Relic of the British
+     Mutiny In India,
+      Is Now Only a
+  Beautiful Ruin, But it
+    Recalls the Heroic
+    Defense Made By a
+    Handful of English
+     Against Hundreds
+   Of Natives. In Front
+  Is a Memorial Erected
+    by Lord Northbrook
+     to Loyal Native
+        Soldiers]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVII
+
+        Tomb of
+    Itmad-ul-Daulet
+     at Agra. This
+    Tomb Was Erected
+     in Honor of the
+  Prime Minister of the
+  Emperor Jahangir. It
+    Is of Carved and
+    Inlaid Marble and
+   Overlooks the Jumna
+         River]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLVIII
+
+    The Mutiny Memorial
+     at Cawnpore. This
+    Memorial Was Erected
+     Over the Well Into
+     Which Were Thrown
+     the Bodies of One
+  Hundred and Twenty-Five
+     English Women and
+    Children, Butchered
+      By Order of the
+        Nana Sahib]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE XLIX
+
+    Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra.
+  This View Gives a Good Idea of the Wonderful Work
+    in Marble Carving and the Inlaying of Precious
+       Stones, Which Makes This Little Pavilion
+                 a Rival of the Taj]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE L
+
+   The Jasmine Tower In
+    Agra Fort. This Is
+  a Marble Pavilion, the
+     Home of the Chief
+   Sultana, Overlooking
+   the Jumna River. The
+  Lattice Work Decoration
+  In Marble Is Remarkably
+        Beautiful]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LI
+
+  Snap-shot of a Jain
+  Family at Agra. Mr.
+    Upham's Camera
+  Caught This Woman
+  as She Peeked From
+  Behind the Curtain
+   of the Ekka, or
+     Native Cart]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LII
+
+    The Fort at Agra
+   Which Encloses Many
+   Palaces. This Fort
+  Has a Circuit of Over
+    a Mile, With Two
+    Octagonal Towers
+   of Red Sandstone.
+  Enclosed are Mosques
+    and Palaces Which
+    Rival the Taj In
+  Beauty of Design and
+       Richness of
+     Ornamentation]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIII
+
+    Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi.
+  The Arch Formed Part of a Mosque built by Kutab, a Viceroy,
+    in 1193 A. D. The Pillar Stood in the Mosque and is of
+      Wrought Iron, Twenty-three Feet High. The Monument
+           is Two Hundred and Thirty-eight Feet High
+           With Three Hundred and Seventy-nine Steps]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIV
+
+     Shah Jehan's Heaven
+       on Earth, Delhi.
+     The Diwan-i-Khas, or
+        Hall of Private
+      Audience, Is One of
+        the Most Richly
+    Decorated Buildings In
+      India. The Ceiling
+    Was Originally Silver.
+      Over the Two Outer
+     Arches Is the Persian
+         Inscription:
+     "If Heaven can be on
+    the face of the earth,
+  It is this, oh! it is this,
+       oh! it is this"]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LV
+
+  Street View In Delhi,
+      With the Juma
+   Mashid. This Shows
+   the Variety of Life
+  In Delhi Streets. The
+  Juma Mashid Is One of
+    the Finest of the
+       Mohammedan
+        Mosques]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVI
+
+     A Parsee Tower of
+  Silence at Bombay. This
+     Shows One of the
+   Unique Burial Places
+     at Malabar Head,
+     Where Dead Bodies
+   Are Exposed. Vultures
+   Strip the Flesh From
+      the Bones In a
+       Few Minutes]
+
+
+
+
+  EGYPT, THE HOME
+  OF HIEROGLYPHS, TOMBS
+  AND MUMMIES
+
+
+PICTURESQUE ORIENTAL LIFE AS SEEN IN CAIRO
+
+The first impression of Cairo is bewildering. None of the Oriental
+cities east of Port Said is at all like it in appearance or in street
+life. The color, the life, the picturesqueness, the noises, all these
+are distinctive. Kyoto, Manila, Hongkong, Singapore, Rangoon, Calcutta,
+Bombay and Colombo--each has marked traits that differentiate it from
+all other cities, but several have marked likenesses. Cairo differs from
+all these in having no traits in common with any of them. It stands
+alone as the most kaleidoscopic of cities, the most bizarre in its
+mingling of the Orient and the Occident.
+
+Ismail Pasha, who loved to ape the customs of the foreigner, made a
+deliberate attempt to convert Cairo into a second Paris, by cutting
+great avenues through the narrow, squalid streets of the old city, but
+Ismail simply transformed a certain quarter of the place and spoiled its
+native character. What he could not do, fortunately, was to rob the
+Egyptian of his picturesqueness or make the chief city of Egypt other
+than a great collection of Oriental bazars and outdoor coffee shops, as
+full of the spirit of the East as the camel or the Bedouin of the
+desert.
+
+The ride from Port Said to Cairo on the train, which consumes four
+hours, is interesting mainly as a revelation of what the Nile means to
+these people, who without its life-giving water would be unable to grow
+enough to live on. With abundant irrigation this Nile delta is one of
+the garden spots of the earth.
+
+The villages that we pass remind one somewhat of old Indian villages on
+the fringe of the desert in California and Arizona--the same walls of
+sun-baked adobe; the roofs of any refuse from tree pruning; the goats
+and chickens on terms of intimacy with the single living-room. But the
+people are not of the Western world. Dressed in voluminous black or blue
+cotton robes, which are pulled up over their heads to protect them from
+the keen wind of winter, they belong to the land as absolutely as the
+tawny, dust-colored camel. The dress of the women appears to differ very
+little from that of the men, but always the women gather a loose fold of
+their dress and bring it over the head, thus partially concealing the
+face. Men, women and children, all in bare feet, squat in the sand or
+sit hunched up against the sunny side of their houses. Beyond any other
+Orientals I have seen, these Egyptians have the capacity for unlimited
+loafing under circumstances that would drive an American insane in a few
+hours. Flies swarm over them; passing donkeys or camels powder them with
+dust; the fierce sun beats down on their heads; but all these things
+they accept philosophically as an inevitable part of life, as something
+decreed by fate which it would be useless and senseless to change.
+
+The first walk down the Street of the Camel in Cairo is one not soon
+forgotten. Before you are clear of the hotel steps an Arab in a sweater
+and loose skirt, something like the Malay sarong, rushes up and shouts:
+"The latest New York Herald; just came this morning!" Although you tell
+him "no" and shake your head, he follows you for half a block. Meanwhile
+you are badgered by dealers in scarabs, beads, stamps, postal cards,
+silver shawls and various curios, who dog your heels, and, when you
+finally lose your temper, retaliate by shouting: "Yankee!" through their
+noses. These street peddlers are wonderfully keen judges of nationality
+and they manage to make life a burden to the American tourist by their
+unwearied and smiling persistence. This is due in great part to the
+foolish liberality of American travelers, who are inclined to accept the
+first price offered, although with an Egyptian or an Arab this is
+usually twice or three times what he finally agrees to take.
+
+Custom and habit probably blunt one's sensibilities in time, but this
+constant annoyance by peddlers detracts much from the pleasure of any
+stroll through Cairo streets. To the new arrival everything is novel and
+attractive. The main avenues are wide, well paved and lined with
+spacious sidewalks, but here the European touch ends. After passing some
+fine shops, their windows filled with costly goods from all parts of
+Egypt and the Soudan, one comes upon one of the great cafes that form a
+distinctive feature of Cairo street life. Here the sidewalk is half
+filled with small tables, about which are grouped Egyptians and
+foreigners drinking the sweet Turkish coffee that is served here at all
+hours of the day.
+
+Many of these Egyptians are in European dress, their swarthy faces and
+the red fez alone showing their nationality. The young men are
+remarkably handsome, with fine, regular features, large, brilliant black
+eyes and straight, heavy eyebrows that frequently meet over the nose.
+Their faces beam with good nature and they evidently regard the frequent
+enjoyment of coffee and cigarettes as among the real pleasures of life.
+But the older men all show traces of this life of ease and
+self-indulgence. It is seldom that one sees a man beyond fifty with a
+strong face. The Egyptian over forty loses his fine figure, he lays on
+abundant flesh, his jowl is heavy and his whole face suggests satiety
+and the loss of that pleasure in mere existence that makes the youth so
+attractive.
+
+Walking down this main artery of Cairo life one sees on the left a large
+park surrounded by a high iron fence. This is the Esbekiyeh Gardens,
+which cover twenty acres, and are planted to many choice trees and
+shrubs. They contain cafes, a restaurant and a theater, and on several
+evenings in the week military and Egyptian bands alternate in playing
+foreign music. Beyond the gardens is an imposing opera house, with a
+small square in front, ornamented with an impressive equestrian statue
+of old Ibrahim Pasha, one of the few good fighters that Egypt has
+produced. From the opera house radiate many streets, some leading to the
+new Europeanized quarters, with noble residences and great apartment
+houses; others taking one directly to the bazars and narrow streets that
+give a good idea of Cairo as it existed before the foreigner came to
+change its life.
+
+Although the modern tram car clangs its way through these native
+streets, it is about the only foreign touch that can be seen. Everything
+else is distinctively Oriental. It is difficult to give any adequate
+idea of the narrowness of these streets or of the amount of life that is
+crowded into them. As in many cities of India, all the work of the shops
+goes on in plain view from the street. The shops themselves are mere
+cubicles, from eight to ten feet wide and seldom more than from six to
+eight feet deep. In certain streets the makers of shoes and slippers are
+massed in solid rows; then come the workers in brass and metals; then
+the jewelers, and following these may be dealers in shawls and in curios
+of various kinds. The native shopkeeper sits cross-legged amid his
+stock and, although he shows great keenness in getting you to examine
+his wares, he never reveals any haste in closing a bargain.
+
+Shopping in this native quarter and in the great Muski bazar that
+adjoins it is a constant source of amusement to the foreign woman who
+has a fondness for bargaining. These Arabs and Egyptians never expect
+one to give more than half what is demanded, except in the case of a few
+large shops in which the price is marked. If one of the silver shawls
+made at Assiut attracts a lady's attention and the polite shopkeeper
+demands five pounds sterling, she may safely offer him two pounds, and
+then, after haggling for a half hour, she will probably become the
+possessor of the shawl for two pounds ten shillings. Of one thing the
+traveler may be sure: he will never get any article from an Egyptian on
+which the shopkeeper cannot make a small profit.
+
+The Muski bazar is about a mile long and, although many European shops
+line it, the street still retains its Oriental attractiveness. Branching
+off from it are many narrow streets crowded with shops on both sides.
+Here may be seen the real life of Old Cairo, unhampered by any foreign
+innovations. The street is not more than twelve feet wide and above the
+first floor of the houses projecting latticed windows and open balconies
+reduce this width to three or four feet. Looking up one sees only a
+narrow slit of blue sky, against which are outlined several tiers of
+latticed windows. From these the harem women look down upon the street
+life in which they can have no real part. Peeping over the balconies may
+be seen black eyes that gleam above the yashmak or Oriental veil worn by
+the poorer classes. This veil covers the face almost to the eyes and it
+is held in place by a curious bit of bamboo that comes down over the
+forehead to the nose. The women of the better class do not wear this
+ugly yashmak, but content themselves with a white silk veil that is
+stretched across the lower part of the face, leaving the eyes and a part
+of the nose uncovered.
+
+No visit to Cairo is complete without a sight of Old Cairo, with its
+bazars. This is a quarter of the city that remains as it was in the days
+of the Caliphs. It is inhabited mainly by Copts and among the mean
+houses, built of sun-dried bricks, may be traced part of the old Roman
+wall that encircled this suburb, then known as Babylon. The houses are
+mainly of two or three stories, but the streets are so narrow that two
+people on opposite sides may easily join hands by leaning out of their
+windows. Many or the antique doors of oak, studded with great
+wrought-iron nails, still remain. Here is the old church of St. Sergius,
+which is said to antedate the Moslem conquest. In the ancient crypt the
+Virgin Mary and the Child are said to have sought shelter after their
+flight into Egypt.
+
+Near by is the island of Roda, which is noteworthy for the legend that
+here the infant Moses was found by Pharaoh's daughter. The visitor
+crosses a narrow arm of the Nile by a crude ferry and then walks through
+a quaint old garden to a wall that overlooks the Nile and the Pyramids.
+This wall marks the spot, according to local tradition, where Moses was
+taken from the bulrushes. The bulrushes are no more because they have
+been dredged out, but the place has the look of extreme age and the
+garden contains many curious trees.
+
+
+AMONG THE RUINS OF LUXOR AND KARNAK
+
+Luxor, the ancient city of Upper Egypt, which may be reached by a night
+train ride from Cairo, is the center of the most interesting ruins on
+the Nile. The city itself has been built around the splendid temple of
+Luxor, founded by Amenophis III, but altered and extensively rebuilt by
+Rameses II. From the Nile the colonnade of this temple is a beautiful
+spectacle, as the huge columns are in perfect preservation. Big tourist
+hotels make up most of the other buildings. The town boasts a good water
+front, which is generally lined in the winter season with tourist
+steamers. The view across the Nile is fine, as it includes the lofty
+Libyan range of mountains, in whose flanks were cut the tombs of the
+Pharaohs. Here, in two or three days, one may study the ruins of Luxor,
+Karnak and Thebes--names that the historian still conjures with.
+
+All the Egyptian temples were built on one general plan, like the
+mosques of North India, and Luxor does not differ from the others,
+except that it surpasses them all in the beauty of its colonnaded
+pillars. Seven double columns, about fifty-two feet high, with lotus
+capitals, support a massive architrave, while beyond them are double
+columns on three sides of a great court. This temple of Luxor was
+originally built by Amenophis III of the eighteenth dynasty in honor of
+Ammon, the greatest of Egyptian gods, his wife and their son, the
+moon-god Khons. The successor of this monarch erased the name of Ammon
+and made other changes, but Seti I restored Ammon's name, and then came
+Rameses II, the builder who never wearied in rearing huge temples and in
+carving colossal figures of himself.
+
+Rameses added a colonnaded court in front of the temple, built an
+enormous pylon, with obelisks and colossal statues that celebrate his
+own greatness, and erased the cartouches of the original builder,
+substituting his own and thus claiming credit for the erection of the
+whole temple. Were the spirit of the great Rameses allowed to return to
+earth and reanimate the mummy that now forms the most interesting
+exhibit in the Cairo Museum, how great would be his humiliation to know
+that his ingenious devices to appropriate the credit of other men's work
+have been exposed? In nearly all the remains of Upper Egypt, Rameses
+figures as the sole builder, but the cunning of modern archaeologists
+has stripped him of this credit and has revealed him as the greatest of
+royal charlatans.
+
+The general plan of the Luxor temple is repeated at Karnak and all other
+places in Egypt. The pylon, two towers of massive masonry, formed the
+entrance to the temple, the door being in the middle. The towers of the
+pylon resemble truncated pyramids and, as they were formed of large
+stones, they frequently survived when all other parts of the temple fell
+into ruins. The surfaces of the pylon afforded space for reliefs and
+inscriptions, telling of the glories of the king who reared the temple.
+In most cases obelisks and colossal statues of the royal builder were
+placed in front of the pylon. From the pylon one enters the great open
+court, with covered colonnades at right and left. This court was the
+gathering place of the people on all big festivals, and in the center
+stood the great altar. Back of this court, on a terrace a few feet
+higher, was the vestibule of the temple upheld by columns, the front row
+of which was balustraded. Behind this was the great hypostyle hall,
+extending the whole width of the building, with five aisles, the two
+outer ones being lower than the others. The roof of the central aisle is
+upheld by papyrus columns with calyx capitals, while that of the other
+aisles is supported by papyrus columns with bud capitals. Behind this
+hall is the inner sanctuary, containing the image of the god in a sacred
+boat. Around the sanctuary were grouped various chambers for the storage
+of the priests' vestments and for the use of watchmen and other
+attendants.
+
+In the Luxor temple the surface of the pylon is devoted to a record of
+the achievements in war of Rameses II, the monarch who finally revised
+the temple and put his seal on it. Behind the pylon is the great court
+of Rameses, entirely surrounded by two rows of seventy-four columns,
+with papyrus bud capitals and smooth shafts. Then comes a colonnade of
+seven double columns, fifty-two feet high, with calyx capitals; a second
+court, that of Amenophis III, with double rows of columns on three
+sides; the vestibule of the temple, two chapels, the birth-room of
+Amenophis and several other chambers.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+       The Great Hypostyle Hall at Karnak.
+  This Hall is in the Temple of Ammon, and is One
+  of the Most Impressive in All Egypt. Originally
+      There Were One Hundred and Thirty-four
+        Columns, Arranged in Sixteen Rows]
+
+Each monarch who reared a temple to his chosen deity devoted much space
+to statues of himself, with grandiloquent accounts in hieroglyphs of his
+exploits in war and peace and of the many peoples who paid him tribute.
+Rameses appears to have had most of the evil traits of the arbitrary
+despot. With unlimited men and material he was engaged during the
+greater part of his long reign in erecting colossal structures which
+were designed to perpetuate in enduring stone the record of his
+achievements. But Time has dealt Rameses some staggering blows. His tomb
+at Thebes, which was planned to preserve his mummy throughout the ages,
+fell in and is the only one of the tombs of the kings that cannot be
+shown. The mummy of this ablest and proudest of the Pharaohs is now on
+exhibition at the Cairo Museum with a score of others and excites the
+ribald comment of the Cook's tourist, who drops his "h's" and knows
+nothing of Egyptology. Yet the mummy of Rameses is by far the most
+interesting of those shown at the museum because the head and face are
+so essentially modern. The other rulers of Egypt were plainly Orientals,
+but this man, with the high-bridged, sensitive nose, the long upper lip,
+the strong chin and the powerful forehead, might have stepped out of the
+political life of any of the great European nations during the last
+century.
+
+The impressiveness of the temple of Luxor depends mainly upon the rows
+of columns, nearly sixty feet in height, which give one a vivid idea of
+the majesty of Egyptian architecture in its best estate. These columns
+show few traces of the destroying hand of time, although they were
+carved from soft limestone. Probably the escape of this temple from the
+ruin that befell Karnak and Thebes was due mainly to its sheltered
+position and also to the fact that a Coptic church and the houses of
+peasants were built among the columns. The refuse that aided to preserve
+these remains of Ancient Egyptian architecture was fully twenty feet
+deep when the work of excavation was begun. Hence Luxor satisfies the
+eye in the perfect arrangement of the columns and in the massiveness of
+the work. Here also on the pylon and the walls of the court may be seen
+some beautiful reliefs and inscriptions which depict scenes in the
+campaigns of Rameses II against the Hittites, sacrificial processions
+and hymns to the gods.
+
+From ancient Luxor to Karnak, a distance of a mile and one-half, the way
+was marked in the time of the Pharaohs by a double row of small
+sphinxes, many of which still remain in a half-ruined condition. This
+avenue leads to the small temple of Khons, the moon-god, made noteworthy
+by a beautiful pylon. This pylon is one hundred and four feet long,
+thirty-three feet wide and sixty feet high and is covered with
+inscriptions and reliefs. This small temple serves as an introduction to
+the great temple of Ammon, the chief glory of Karnak, to which most of
+the Pharaohs contributed. This temple is difficult to describe, as it
+covers several acres and is a mass of gigantic masonry, full of majesty
+even in its ruin. What it was in the days of its builders, with its vast
+courts lined with beautiful designs in brilliant colors, the imagination
+fails to conceive. Its greatest features are the main pylon (three
+hundred and seventy feet wide and one hundred and forty-two and one-half
+feet high), the great hypostyle hall of Seti I and Rameses II, the
+festival temple of Thotmes III and the obelisk of Queen Hatasu. From the
+pylon a superb view may be gained of the ruins of Karnak.
+
+The hypostyle hall is justly ranked among the wonders of the world, as
+it is no less than three hundred and thirty-eight feet in breadth by one
+hundred and seventy feet in depth and it is estimated that the great
+church of Notre Dame in Paris could be set down in this hall. Sixteen
+rows of columns--one hundred and thirty-four in all--support the roof.
+Looking down the two central rows of columns toward the sanctuary, one
+gets some idea of the effect of this colossal architecture when the
+pillars were all perfect and the fierce sunshine of ancient Egypt
+brought out their barbaric wealth of gold and brilliant colors.
+
+The walls of this immense hall are covered with pictures in relief
+depicting the victories of Seti and Rameses over the Libyans and the
+people of Palestine. These designs represent the two monarchs as
+performing prodigies of valor on the field of battle and then bringing
+the trophies of war as an offering to the gods. The festal hall of
+Thotmes III is made noteworthy by twenty unique columns arranged in two
+rows. The Temple of Karnak was made beautiful by two fine obelisks of
+pink granite from Assuan, erected by Queen Hatasu. One is in fragments,
+but the other rises one hundred and one-half feet from amid a ruined
+colonnade. It is the loftiest obelisk known with the single exception of
+that in front of the Lateran in Rome, which is taller by only three and
+one-half feet. The inscription records that it was made in seven months.
+
+The impression left by the ruins of Karnak is bewildering. The modern
+mind has great difficulty in conceiving how any monarch, no matter how
+great his resources, could spend years in erecting these huge structures
+in honor of his gods. Here are scores of colossal statues of Rameses,
+Seti and Amenophis, each of which required six months to carve from a
+single slab of red or black granite. Here are hundreds of columns of
+from forty to sixty feet high, covered from capital to base with richly
+carved hieroglyphs. Here are splendid halls, larger than anything known
+in our day, which were picture galleries in stone, blazing with gold,
+red, purple and other colors. And here are obelisks that have preserved
+through all these centuries the story of their dedication.
+
+The mind is staggered by so great a mass of work, representing untold
+misery of thousands of wretched slaves brought from all parts of the
+then known world. These slaves were made to work under the terrible
+Egyptian sun; if they were overcome by the heat and stopped for a
+moment's rest their bare backs felt the cruel lash of the overseer; if
+they fell under the heat and the burden they were dragged out and their
+bodies thrown to the vultures and the jackals. So, while we stand in
+amazement before these relics of the enormous activity of a people who
+have passed away, we cannot fail to note that these huge stones were
+cemented with the blood and tears of the bond slave, and that if they
+could find a voice they would tell of unthinkable atrocities which they
+witnessed in those old days, before brotherly love came into the world.
+
+
+TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT ANCIENT THEBES
+
+The Greeks and Romans who went up the Nile as far as the "hundred-gated"
+city of Thebes declared that the Tombs of the Kings, cut in the
+limestone sides of the Libyan range of mountains, were among the wonders
+of the world. The tourist of to-day will confirm this early impression,
+for in Egypt nothing gives one a more vivid idea of the enormous pains
+taken by the Pharaohs to preserve their dead from desecration than do
+these tombs. Here for several miles in the flanks of these
+mountains--sterile, desolate beyond any region that I have ever
+seen--are scattered the rock-hewn tombs of the monarchs who carried the
+arms of Egypt to all parts of the known world of their day. Like their
+temples, the Egyptians built their tombs after a uniform plan--the only
+variation was in the arrangement of the minor chambers and in the
+inscriptions which told of the history of the king whose mummy reposed
+in the vault.
+
+Seven miles across the river the Pharaohs chose the site of their tombs.
+Imagination could not conceive a greater abomination of desolation than
+the rocky mountainside in which these tombs are carved; but fortunes
+were lavished on the construction of these resting places of the dead.
+Historians and travelers have told of the great city which grew up about
+the tombs of the Egyptian kings--the temples, the homes of priests and
+the huge settlements of thousands of workmen who spent years in the
+laborious carving and decoration of these burial places. But to-day
+nothing remains of these cities, and of the temples only a few columns,
+pillars and broken statues bear witness to their former grandeur. Yet
+the tombs have resisted the destroying hand of the centuries, and the
+walls of several of them actually retain the brilliant colors laid on by
+the painters over four thousand years ago. When you go down the
+roughly-hewn steps into the mortuary chambers, carved out of the solid
+rock, it is borne in upon you that here time has stood still; that
+during all the ages that have seen the rise of Christianity and the
+growth of empires greater than Thebes ever dreamed of, the mummies of
+these Pharaohs reposed here undisturbed. Now by the aid of skilfully
+arranged electric lights you may descend into most of these tombs,
+marvel at the beauty of the decorative inscriptions on the walls, gaze
+upon the massive granite sarcophagi in which the mummies were placed,
+and get a genuine taste of the antiquity that you have read about but
+never fully realized before. This is the service of the tombs of the
+kings--the actual turning back of the centuries so that one feels the
+touch of the ancient days as vividly as he feels the hot, dust-laden,
+oppressive air of the mausoleum.
+
+The excursion from Luxor to the tombs of the kings and the Colossi of
+Memnon, not far away, is a hard day's trip. The tourist crosses the Nile
+in a small boat and takes a donkey or a carriage. The road leads along a
+large canal, passing the remains of the great temple of Seti I at Kurna,
+and thence winds around through two desert valleys into a gorge lined on
+both sides with naked, sun-baked rocks that give back the heat like the
+open doors of a furnace. Bare of any scrap of verdure, desolate beyond
+expression, these rocky walls that shut in this gorge form a fitting
+introduction to the tombs of the kings. The road finally turns to the
+left and enters a small valley, encircled by huge rocks, cut by ravines.
+Here one may see in the sides of the mountain wall the first of the
+rock-hewn tombs, which happens to be that of Rameses IV. One enters the
+large gateway and passes down an ancient staircase cut in the solid
+rock, at an angle of forty-five degrees. Three corridors and an
+ante-room, all carved out of rock, lead to the main chamber, which
+contains the mammoth granite sarcophagus of the king (ten feet long,
+eight feet high and seven feet wide), beautifully decorated with
+inscriptions. Four other rooms follow, the walls of each being covered
+with inscriptions. Recesses are found in the main hall for the storage
+of the furniture of the dead and in several of the other rooms.
+
+The theory of the Egyptians in the arrangement of these tombs was that
+the dead king, guided by the great sun-god, voyaged through the
+underworld every night in a boat. Hence he must have careful guidance in
+regard to his route. This was furnished by elaborate extracts from two
+sacred books of the Egyptians. One was entitled _The Book of Him Who Is
+in the Underworld_ and the other was the _Book of the Portals_.
+
+The walls of these tombs reveal extracts from the sacred books in great
+variety, but all designed to serve as a guide to the dead kings. The
+best tombs are those of Amenophis II, Rameses III, Seti I and Thotmes
+III. They are all of similar design but the tomb of Seti I (discovered
+by the Italian savant, Belzoni) is finer than any of the others. It
+includes fourteen rooms, most of which are richly adorned with
+inscriptions and designs from the sacred books. The sculptures on the
+walls are executed with great skill and the decorations of the ceilings
+show much artistic taste. In the tenth room are many curious
+decorations, the ceiling, which is finely vaulted, being covered with
+astronomical figures and lists of stars and constellations. From this
+room an incline leads to the mummy shaft. The mummy of Seti I is in the
+Cairo Museum, while the fine alabaster sarcophagus is in the Soane
+Museum in London. The tomb of Amenophis II is noteworthy as the only one
+which contains the royal mummy. In a crypt with blue ceiling, spangled
+with yellow stars and with yellow walls to represent papyrus, is the
+great sandstone sarcophagus of the king. Under a strong electric light
+is shown the mummy-shaped coffin with the body of the king, its arms
+crossed and the funeral garlands still resting in the case. The
+effectiveness of this mummy makes one regret that the others have been
+removed to the Cairo Museum, instead of being restored to their original
+places in these tombs. Most of these royal mummies were removed to a
+shaft at Deir-el-Bahri to save them from desecration by the invading
+Persians, but when the mummies were found it would have been wise to
+replace them in these tombs rather than to group them, as was done, in
+the Cairo Museum. One or two mummies in that museum would have been as
+effective as two dozen.
+
+Not far from these tombs is the fine temple of Queen Hatasu at
+Deir-el-Bahri. This queen was the sister and wife of King Thotmes III,
+and for a part of his reign was co-regent. The temple, which was left
+unfinished, was completed by Rameses II. A short ride from this temple
+brings one to the Ramessium, the large temple (which is badly preserved)
+erected by Rameses II and dedicated to the god Ammon. The pylon is
+ruined, but one can still decipher some of the inscriptions that tell of
+Rameses' campaign against the Hittites. The first court is a mass of
+ruined masonry, but it contains fragments of a colossal statue of
+Rameses, the largest ever found in Egypt. It probably measured
+fifty-seven and one-third feet in height, as the various parts show that
+it was twenty-two and one-half feet from shoulder to shoulder. The
+colossal head of another statue of Rameses was found near by. The great
+hall had many fine columns, of which eighteen are still standing. These
+columns are very impressive and give one some idea of the majesty of the
+temple when it was complete. Not far away are the tombs of the queens,
+including the fine mausoleum of the consort of Rameses II, part of whose
+name was Mi-an-Mut.
+
+A half mile from the Ramessium brings one to the Colossi of Memnon, the
+two huge seated figures of stone, which were long included among the
+seven wonders of the world. These figures were statues of King Amenophis
+III and were placed in front of a great temple that he built at this
+place; but time has dealt hardly with the temple, as scarcely a trace of
+it remains. The figures with the pedestals are about sixty-five feet
+high and, as they are on the level plain near the banks of the Nile,
+they can be seen from a great distance. Though carved from hard
+sandstone these figures have suffered severely from the elements, so
+that the faces bear little trace of human features; still they are
+impressive from their mere size and from the fact that they have come
+down to us across the centuries with so little change.
+
+The southern statue is in the best preservation, but the northern one is
+of greatest interest because for ages it was believed to give forth
+musical notes when the first rays of the rising sun fell on its lips.
+The Greeks called it the Statue of Memnon, and invented the fable that
+Memnon, who was slain at Troy by Achilles, appeared on the Nile as a
+stone image and every morning greeted his mother (Eos) with a song. So
+many good observers vouched for these musical notes at sunrise that the
+phenomenon must be accepted as an historical fact. The Romans invented
+the legend that when these sounds occurred the god was angry. Hence the
+emperor, Septimius Severus, apparently to propitiate the god, made some
+restorations in the upper portion of the statue, whereupon the
+mysterious musical sounds ceased. Some modern experts in physics have
+deduced the theory that this statue, carved from hard, resonant stone,
+really gave forth sounds when warmed up by the early sun after the heavy
+dews of night. Similar sounds have been observed elsewhere, due to the
+splitting off of very small particles of stone by sudden expansion.
+Whatever the cause of these mysterious sounds, the speaking statue has
+served as an inspiration to many poets.
+
+
+SAILING DOWN THE NILE ON A SMALL STEAMER
+
+Few pleasure trips are more enjoyable than a steamer ride down the Nile
+from Luxor to Cairo. My plans did not permit an extensive Nile trip, so
+I went up the Nile by rail and came down by the Amenartas, one of Cook's
+small boats. For one who has the leisure the best scheme is to take one
+of Cook's express boats and make the round trip to Assouan from Cairo.
+The Egypt and the Arabia are two luxurious steamers specially arranged
+for the comfort of tourists.
+
+The Nile at Luxor is about a half-mile wide at extreme low water in
+December, although the marks on the bank show that it spreads over
+several miles of flat land when the heavy rains come in June and July.
+It is as muddy as the Missouri or the San Joaquin, but the natives drink
+this water, refusing to have it filtered. They claim, and probably with
+reason, that this Nile water is very nutritious. The Egyptian fellah or
+peasant seldom enjoys a hot meal. He chews parched Indian corn and sugar
+cane, and eats a curious bread made of coarse flour and water. Despite
+this monotonous diet the native is a model of physical vigor, with teeth
+which are as white and perfect as those of a Pueblo Indian.
+
+All around Luxor are evidences of the tremendous force of the Nile
+waters when in flood. At various headlands near the city the banks of
+the Nile have been stoned up with solid walls, so that these may
+receive the full sweep of the flood waters. The great dam at Assouan,
+perhaps the finest bit of engineering work in the world, holds up the
+main current of the Nile and prevents the destructive floods which in
+the old days frequently swept away all the soil of the fellah's little
+farm. This dam has now been increased twelve feet in height, so that no
+water pours over the top.
+
+The farmers in Egypt irrigate in the same way as the ryots of India.
+They lay off a field into small rectangular patches, with a ridge around
+each to keep the irrigation water in it. These rectangles make the
+fields look like huge checker-boards. Plowing is done exactly as in the
+time of Cleopatra. A forked stick, often not shod with iron, serves as a
+plow, to which are frequently harnessed a camel and a bullock by a
+heavy, unwieldy yoke. When these two unequally yoked animals move across
+the field, agriculture in the Orient is seen at its best. Unlike the
+Japanese, the Egyptian women do not work in the fields. Their labors
+seem to be limited to carrying water in large jars on their heads and to
+washing clothes in the dirty Nile water. The most common sight along the
+river is that of two women, with their single cotton garment gathered up
+above their knees, filling the water jars or rinsing out clothes in
+water that is thick and yellow with dirt.
+
+The steamer Amenartas started down the river at two in the afternoon.
+The current was strong and the little steamer easily made fifteen miles
+an hour. Now began a series of exquisite views of river life, which
+changed every minute and saved the voyage from monotony. The first thing
+that impresses the stranger who is new to Egypt is the number and
+variety of the shadoufs for bringing the Nile water to the fields.
+These consist of three platforms, each equipped with two upright posts
+of date palm trunks, with a crossbar. From this crossbar depends a well
+sweep, with a heavy weight at one end and a tin or wooden bucket at the
+other. One man at the level of the river scoops up a bucket of water and
+lifts it to the height or his head, pouring it into a small basin of
+earth. The second man fills his bucket from this basin and in turn
+delivers it to the third man, who is about six feet above him. The third
+man raises the water to the height of his head and pours it into a ditch
+which carries it upon the land. The heavy weights on the shadouf help to
+raise the water, but the labor of lifting this water all day is
+strenuous. The shadouf men work with only small loin cloths, and
+occasionally one of these fellows in a sheltered hole toils stark naked.
+
+Despite the fact that their work is as heavy as any done in Egypt, they
+receive the wretched pittance of two piasters or ten cents a day, out of
+which they must spend two and one-half cents a day for food. The shadouf
+is as old as history, and the methods in use for raising this Nile water
+are the same to-day that they were in the earliest dawn of recorded
+history.
+
+As in India, there is a great dearth of farmhouses in these rich lands.
+The peasants are herded in squalid villages, the mud huts jammed close
+together, and the whole place overrun with goats, donkeys, pigs,
+chickens and pigeons. The houses are the crudest huts, with no window
+and no roof.
+
+Life in these villages along the Nile is as primitive as it is among the
+Pueblo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico. Although their religion
+admonishes them to wash before prayers, these peasants appear to pay
+little heed to such rites. Men, women and children are extremely dirty,
+and it is unusual to find anyone with good eyes. Inflammation of the
+eyelids is the most common complaint and this disease is aggravated by
+the fact that the natives make no effort to drive away the flies that
+fasten upon the sore eyes of their little children. This is due to the
+common superstition that it brings ill luck to brush off flies. At every
+small station where the steamer stopped to land native passengers and
+freight a score of villagers would be lined up, each afflicted with some
+eye complaint, and all swarming with small black flies.
+
+At only a few towns along the Nile from Luxor to Cairo were there any
+houses which looked like comfortable homes. The great majority of the
+houses were of sun-dried brick, and these were often in a ruinous
+condition. Yet with their framework of graceful date palms, these
+squalid villages would delight the eye of an artist. For nearly the
+whole distance the west side of the Nile is marked off from the desert
+by the high Libyan mountains, gleaming white and yellow in the brilliant
+sunshine. These limestone cliffs were chosen for the tombs of the kings
+at Thebes, and all along the river one could make out with a glass
+frequent tombs carved in the steep sides of these hills. The other side
+of the river was flat, with low ranges of hills. At sunrise and at
+sunset the most exquisite colors transformed the country into a
+veritable fairyland. The sun sank behind bands of purple and amethyst,
+and his last rays brought out in sharp silhouette the statuesque forms
+of women water-carriers and long lines of laden camels moving in ghostly
+silence along the river bank. Very beautiful also were the pictures made
+by the dahabiehs and other native boats, with their big lateen sails and
+with the motley gathering of natives in the stern. All these boats have
+enormous rudders which rise high out of the water and add greatly to the
+effectiveness of the picture as seen against the sunset glow.
+
+The atmosphere along the Nile is wonderfully clear, the sky is as blue
+and lustrous as fine silk, and the wind blows up clouds in fantastic
+shapes, which add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. All day the
+little steamer passes half-ruined villages, embowered in feathery palms,
+with camels in the background and an occasional bullock straining at the
+wheel which lifts the Nile water on the shadouf. All day natives passed
+along the sky line, some on donkeys, others on camels, still others
+driving in front laden animals, whose forms could scarcely be
+distinguished amid the thick clouds of dust raised by their heavy feet.
+The creak of the shadoufs could be heard before we came abreast of the
+tireless workers.
+
+Seen from the steamer the glamour of the Orient was over all this
+poverty-stricken land, but seen near at hand were revealed all the ugly
+features of dirt, disease, hopeless poverty, unending work that yields
+only the coarsest and scantiest food. We passed miles on miles of waving
+fields of sugar cane, with great factories where this cane was worked up
+into sugar. We passed broad fields of cotton, with factories near at
+hand for converting the product into cloth. Principalities of
+wheat--great seas of emerald green that stood out against a background of
+sandy desert--lined the banks at frequent intervals. But all these
+evidences of the new wealth that scientific irrigation has brought to
+this ancient valley of the Nile means nothing to the Egyptian peasant.
+These great industries are in the hands of native or foreign
+millionaires, who see to it that the wages of the native workers are
+kept down to the lowest level.
+
+
+BEFORE THE PYRAMIDS AND THE SPHINX
+
+Wintry winds in Cairo, which raised clouds of dust and sand, prevented
+me from seeing the pyramids until after my return from Luxor. Then one
+still, warm day it was my good fortune to see at their best these oldest
+monuments of man's work on this earth. Yet impressive as are these great
+masses of stone rising from barren wastes of sand, they did not affect
+me so powerfully as the ruins of Karnak and the tombs of the Kings of
+Thebes. Three pyramids were constructed at Gizeh and four other groups
+at Sakkara, the site of the ancient city of Memphis. That these pyramids
+were built for the tombs of kings has now been demonstrated beyond
+question, so that the many elaborate theories of the religious
+significance of these monuments may be dismissed. The ancient city of
+Memphis was for centuries the seat of the government of Egypt, and the
+tombs that may be seen to-day at Sakkara preceded the rock-hewn tombs at
+Thebes in Upper Egypt. The great antiquity of the tombs at Sakkara makes
+these of importance, although much of the work is inferior to that at
+Thebes.
+
+The pictures of the pyramids are misleading. They give the impression
+that these great masses of stone rise near palm groves and that the
+Sphinx is almost as huge as the pyramid of Cheops which overshadows it.
+In reality, the pyramids are set on a sandy plateau, about fifteen feet
+high, while the Sphinx is practically buried in a hollow to the west of
+the great pyramid and can only be seen from one direction. When you
+stand in front of the big pyramid you can form no idea of its size, but
+you know from the guide book that it is seven hundred and fifty feet
+long and four hundred and fifty-one feet high. The height of each side
+is five hundred and sixty-eight feet, while the angle of the sides is
+fifty-one degrees fifty minutes. These statistics do not make much
+impression on the mind but, when it is said that this huge pyramid
+actually covers thirteen acres, the mind begins to grasp the stupendous
+size of this great mass of masonry. This pyramid to-day is of dirty
+brown color, but when finished it was covered with blocks of white
+limestone.
+
+These were removed by various builders and have served to erect mosques
+and temples. Had this covering remained intact it would be impossible to
+climb the pyramid of Cheops. From Cairo and the Nile, as well as from
+the desert, the pyramids are an impressive sight. Unique in shape and
+massive as the Libyan hills beyond them, they can never be forgotten,
+for they represent more perfectly than any other remains in Egypt the
+control by the early kings of unlimited labor and materials.
+
+It used to be the fashion to sneer at the stories told by Herodotus, but
+the excavations in Egypt during the last thirty years have demonstrated
+that this old Greek traveler was an accurate observer and that what he
+saw may be accepted as fact. He was the first to give any detailed
+description of the pyramids and of the enormous work of building them.
+Herodotus visited Egypt about 450 B. C., and he related that one hundred
+thousand men were employed for three months at one time in building the
+great pyramid of Cheops. The stone was quarried near the site of the
+citadel in Cairo, and ten years were consumed in constructing a great
+road across the desert to Gizeh by which the stone was transported. The
+remains of this road, formed of massive stone blocks, may now be seen
+near the Sphinx. The construction of the big pyramid alone required
+twenty years. The story of Herodotus that one hundred thousand men were
+once employed on this pyramid is plausible, according to
+Flinders-Petrie, as these months came during the inundation of the Nile,
+when there was no field work to occupy their time.
+
+The ascent of the pyramid is an easy task for any one in good physical
+condition and accustomed to gymnastic work. Two Bedouins assist you from
+the front while an ancient Sheik is supposed to help push you from the
+rear. In my case the Bedouins had a very easy job, while the Sheik
+enjoyed a sinecure. The stones are about a yard high, and the only
+difficulty of the ascent lies in the straddle which must be made to
+cover these stones. The ascent is made on the northeast corner of the
+pyramid, and much help is gained by inequalities in the great slabs of
+limestone which enable one to get a foothold. Two rests were made on the
+upward climb, but we came down without any rest, covering the whole trip
+in about fifteen minutes.
+
+The view from the summit is superb. On two sides, the south and west,
+sketches the sandy desert, broken only by the groups of pyramids at
+Abusir, Sakkara and Dashhur, which mark the bounds of the ancient city
+of Memphis.
+
+The average tourist has more curiosity about the Sphinx than about the
+pyramids, and here the reality is not disappointing. An impressive
+figure is this of a recumbent stone lion one hundred and eighty-seven
+feet long and sixty-six feet high, with a man's head that is full of
+power and pride. The nose is gone and the face is badly scarred, but
+here is the typical Egyptian face, with the fine setting of the eyes and
+the graceful head.
+
+The journey to the rock tombs of Sakkara and the site of ancient Memphis
+is tedious, as it includes a ride across the sandy desert of eighty
+miles. A stop is made at the old house of Mariette, the famous French
+Egyptologist, who uncovered many of the finest remains in Memphis. Near
+by is the Step pyramid, the tomb of a king of the fifth dynasty and one
+of the oldest monuments in Egypt.
+
+Near by are several pyramids and tombs that will repay a visit, as each
+gives some new idea of the extraordinary care taken by the ancient
+Egyptians to preserve their dead and to assure them proper guidance in
+the land beyond the tomb.
+
+In one chapel are exquisitely carved mural reliefs, many of which still
+retain their original colors. In these chambers the hot, dry air is like
+that of the desert. A hundred years seem like a day in this atmosphere,
+where nothing changes with the changing seasons. Under one's feet is the
+soft, dry dust stirred up by the feet of many tourists, but rain and
+sunshine never penetrate this home of the dead, and a century passes
+without leaving a mark on these inscriptions which were chiseled long
+before the children of Israel made their escape from bondage in Egypt.
+It seems incredible that so many momentous things should have occurred
+while in these still, warm tombs day followed day without change.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVII
+
+          A Typical Street in Old Cairo.
+  These Buildings Show the Architecture of Cairo,
+        With a Mosque on the Left With Dome
+                   and Minaret]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LVIII
+
+  An Arab Cafe In One
+  of Cairo's Streets.
+  The Open Air Cafes,
+  Facing the Sidewalk,
+    Abound In Cairo.
+    The Smokers and
+  Coffee-Drinkers Pay
+    No Attention to
+      Passers-by]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LIX
+
+   Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume.
+  One of These Women is Uncovered, While the
+    Other Wears the Yashmak or Face Mask.
+        They Carry Large Water Jars on
+                 Their Heads]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LX
+
+               The Rameseon at Karnak.
+  Six Colossal Statues of Rameses II of Which Three
+              Are in Fair Preservation]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXI
+
+      The Avenue of
+   Sphinxes at Karnak.
+   The Road From Luxor
+   to Karnak Was Lined
+  With Recumbent Rams,
+  Called Krio-Sphinxes,
+   Many of Which Still
+         Remain]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXII
+
+    An Arab Village on the
+       Nile. This Is a
+     Typical Village, the
+  Houses of Sun-dried Brick,
+     like the California
+        Adobe, and the
+         Whole Shaded
+          By Palms]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXIII
+
+       The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes.
+  These Gigantic Figures on the West Bank of the
+    Nile May Be Seen for Many Miles. They are
+    Sixty-five Feet High, and Stood Originally
+              in Front of a Temple]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE LXIV
+
+       The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple
+  Underneath. This is the Best View of the Face,
+  Which Has a Certain Majesty. The Lion's Figure
+      is Sixty-six Feet High and One Hundred
+           and Eighty-seven Feet Long]
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+HINTS FOR TRAVELERS
+
+SOME SUGGESTIONS THAT MAY SAVE THE TOURIST TIME AND MONEY
+
+
+For a round-the-world trip the best plan is to buy a Cook's ticket for
+six hundred and thirty-nine dollars and ten cents. This provides
+transportation from any place in the United States around the world to
+the starting point. The advantage of a Cook's ticket over the tickets of
+other companies is that this firm has the best organized force, with
+large offices in the big cities and with banks as agencies in hundreds
+of places where you may cash its money orders. This is a great
+convenience as it saves the risk of carrying considerable sums of money
+in lands where thievery is a fine art. Cook's agents may be found on
+arrival by boat or train in all the principal cities of a world-tour.
+These men invariably speak English well, and thus they are a god-send
+when the tourist knows nothing of the language or the customs of a
+strange country. At the offices of Cook and Son in all the large
+Oriental cities one may get accurate information about boats and trains
+and may purchase tickets for side excursions. Some of the Oriental
+offices I found careless in the handling of mail because of the
+employment of native clerks, but this was not general. Cook will furnish
+guides for the leading Oriental tours and in India and Egypt these are
+absolutely necessary, as without them life is made a burden by the
+demands of carriage drivers, hotel servants and beggars. Cook will
+furnish good guides for Japan, but it is unsafe to select natives unless
+you have a guarantee that they know the places usually visited and that
+they speak intelligible English. The pronunciation of Japanese differs
+so vitally from that of English that many Japanese who understand and
+write English well make a hopeless jumble of words when they attempt to
+speak it. Their failure to open their mouths or to give emphasis to
+words renders it extremely difficult to understand them. Good foreign
+hotels may be found in all the Japanese cities and even those managed by
+Japanese are conducted in European style. It is a pity that the hotels
+are not modeled on the Japanese style, like the Kanaya Hotel at Nikko,
+where the furniture and the decorations of the rooms are essentially
+Japanese and very artistic. The average charge for room and board in
+Japanese hotels of the first class is four dollars, but some of the more
+pretentious places demand from five to six dollars a day.
+
+The cost of travel in India is not heavy because of the moderate scale
+of prices. Hotels usually charge ten rupees a day for board and lodging
+or about three dollars a day. Carriage hire is cheap, especially if you
+have a party of four to fill one carriage. A Victoria, holding four
+people, may be had morning and afternoon for twenty rupees, or an
+average of about one dollar and seventy-five cents a day each. Railway
+travel is absurdly cheap. Our party traveled second-class from Calcutta
+to Delhi, thence to Bombay, Madras and Tuticorin, a distance of about
+thirty-five hundred miles--farther than from New York to San
+Francisco--for one hundred and forty rupees or about forty-five dollars
+in American money. The first-class fare was nearly twice this amount,
+but no additional comfort would have been secured. We made the trip at
+low cost because a bargain was always made with hotelkeepers and
+carriage drivers. Always make a definite bargain or you will be
+overcharged. A native guide is necessary not only to show you the places
+of interest but to arrange for carriages and to pay tips to servants.
+Secure a Mohammedan guide and you may rest content that you will not be
+cheated. His antipathy to the Hindoo will prevent any collusion with
+servants. A good guide may be had for two rupees a day or about
+sixty-five cents, and he will board himself.
+
+Murray's Guide books for Japan, China, the Straits Settlements and India
+are the most useful. These give the best routes and describe all the
+principal objects of interest. Without such a guide-book, one is
+helpless, as the professional guides frequently omit important things
+which should be seen. It is needless to look for conscientiousness or
+honesty in the Orient. You will not find them.
+
+To avoid trouble when hiring carriage or jinrikisha, make a definite
+bargain by the hour or by the trip. This you may do through the hotel
+porter. Then, on your return, if the driver or the rickshaw-man demands
+more, refer the matter to the porter, and refuse to pay more than your
+bargain. If you do not take these precautions you will be involved in
+constant trouble and will be persistently charged twice what you should
+pay. Even with these precautions, you cannot escape trouble in
+Singapore, which is cursed with the greediest carriage drivers in the
+world.
+
+Many travelers purchase Cook's hotel coupons which provide for lodging
+and meals at certain hotels in every large city of the Orient. My
+experience is that it is a mistake to buy these coupons, as all the
+hotel managers speak English or have hall porters who understand the
+language. You gain little by the arrangement, and you lose the choice of
+good rooms, as hotel managers are not partial to tourists who carry
+coupons, since the profit on these is small.
+
+In Egypt, Cook's tours, which are arranged to suit all tastes, are the
+most convenient. The best plan is to go up the Nile by train and to come
+down by boat. Do not neglect the ride down the river. It consumes more
+time but it is the only way in which you can get an idea of the charm of
+the scenery, the primitive life of the people, and the beauty of sunrise
+and sunset over the desert.
+
+Above all things, arrange your itinerary carefully before you start.
+Here is where Cook's agent can help you materially, but you must not
+rely upon his advice in regard to steamship lines. He will recommend the
+P. & O. boats, as they are British, but practically every tourist who
+has made the trip will say that the North German Lloyd steamers give the
+best service. Engage your state-room several months in advance and pay a
+deposit, so as to get a receipt for the best berth in a certain room.
+Unless you do this, you will have trouble and will probably be forced to
+sleep in an inside room on hot tropical nights. Get a room on star-board
+or port-side, according to the prevailing wind. To be on the windward
+side means comfort and coolness at night. As soon as possible after
+boarding a vessel see the bath steward and select an hour for your
+morning bath. Should you neglect this, you will be forced to rise very
+early or to bathe at night. If you wish certain table companions see the
+head steward promptly. If you travel on a P. & O. boat, engage an
+electric fan at the Company's office, as there is a rule that you can't
+hire a fan after you are on board. The North German Lloyd furnishes
+fans, which are a necessity in the tropics.
+
+There is a regular tariff for tips on most of the Oriental steamship
+lines, graded according to the length of the voyage. You can always
+ascertain what to give to your waiter, room steward, bath steward, boot
+black and deck steward. These tips are always given on the last day of
+the voyage. American tourists are criminally lavish in giving tips, with
+the result that one who adheres to the rules of old travelers, is apt to
+be regarded as niggardly. It is to be noted that the richest travelers
+always conform to the regular schedule of tips.
+
+In all parts of the Orient it is unsafe to drink the water of the
+country. If you do not relish bottled waters, demand tea; at any rate
+make sure that the water you drink has been boiled. I found hot tea an
+excellent drink even in the tropics and I was never troubled with the
+complaints that follow drinking unboiled water. It is well to make
+liberal use of the curries and rice which are excellent everywhere.
+These, with fish, eggs and fruit, formed the staple of my diet. Never
+eat melons nor salads made of green vegetables; the native methods of
+fertilizing the soil are fatal to the wholesomeness of such things.
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+BOOKS WHICH HELP ONE TO UNDERSTAND THE ORIENT AND ITS PEOPLE
+
+
+In this bibliography no attempt has been made to cover the field of
+books about the leading countries of the Orient. The aim has been to
+mention the books which the tourist will find most helpful. Guide books
+are indispensable, but they give the imagination no stimulus. It is a
+positive help to read one or two good descriptive accounts of any
+country before visiting it; in this way one gets an idea of comparative
+values. In these notes I have mentioned only the books that are familiar
+to me and which I have found suggestive.
+
+
+JAPAN
+
+Of all foreigners who have written about Japan, Lafcadio Hearn gives one
+the best idea of the Japanese character and of the literature that is
+its expression. Hearn married a Japanese lady, became Professor of
+English Literature at the Imperial University of Tokio, renounced his
+American citizenship, and professed belief in Buddhism. He never
+mastered the Japanese language but he surpassed every other foreign
+student in his ability to make real the singular faith of the Japanese
+in the presence of good and evil spirits and the national worship of
+beauty in nature and art. Hearn's father was Greek and his mother Irish.
+In mind he was a strange mixture of a Florentine of the Renaissance and
+a pagan of the age of Pericles. In _The West Indies_ he has given the
+best estimate of the influence of the tropics on the white man, and in
+_Japan: An Interpretation_, _In Ghostly Japan_, _Exotics and
+Retrospections_, and others, he has recorded in exquisite literary style
+his conception of Japanese character, myths and folk-legends. His work
+in this department is so fine that no one else ranks with him. He seems
+to have been able to put himself in the place of the cultivated Japanese
+and to interpret the curious national beliefs in good and evil spirits
+and ghosts. He has also made more real than any other foreign writer the
+peculiar position of the Japanese wife. Hearn was a conservative,
+despite his lawless life, and he looked with regret upon the
+transformation of old Japan, wrought by the new desire to Europeanize
+the country. He paints with great art the idyllic life of the old
+Samauri and the loyalty of the retainers to their chief.
+
+Sir Edwin Arnold, who in his old age married a Japanese lady, has given
+excellent pictures of life in Japan in _Seas and Lands_ and _Japonica_.
+_Religions of Japan_ by W. E. Griffis gives a good idea of the various
+creeds. Mr. Griffis in _The Mikado's Empire_ also furnishes a good
+description of Japan and the Japanese.
+
+In _Fifty Tears of New Japan_, Count Okuma has compiled a work that
+gives a complete survey of Japanese progress during the last half
+century. Among the contributors are many of the leading statesmen and
+publicists of Japan.
+
+Of fiction, the scene of which is laid in Japan, one of the most famous
+stories is _Madame Chrysantheme_ by Pierre Loti, a cynical sketch of the
+Japanese geisha, or professional entertainer. Another good story which
+lays bare the ugly fate that often befalls the geisha, is _The Lady and
+Sada San_ by Frances Little, the author of that popular book, _The Lady
+of the Decoration_.
+
+Other books that will be found valuable are Norman, _The New Japan_;
+Chamberlain, _Things Japanese_; Treves, _The Other Side of the Lantern_;
+Murray, _Handbook of Japan_; Clement, _Handbook of Modern Japan_;
+D'Autremer, _The Japanese Empire_; Hartshorne, _Japan and Her People_;
+Fraser, _A Diplomatist's Wife In Japan_; Lloyd, _Everyday Japan_;
+Scidmore, _Jinrikisha Days In Japan_; Knox, _Japanese Life In Town and
+Country_; Singleton, _Japan, As Described By Great Writers_; Inouye,
+_Home Life In Tokio_.
+
+
+MANILA
+
+The acqusition of the Philippine Islands by the United States has led to
+a great increase of the literature on the islands, especially in regard
+to educational and industrial progress. Among the old books that have
+good sketches of Manila are _A Visit to the Philippine Islands_ by Sir
+John Browning.
+
+For sketches of the city since the American occupation see Worcester,
+_The Philippine Islands and Their People_; Landor, _The Gems of the
+East_; Dennis, _An Observer in the Philippines_; Potter, _The East
+To-day and Tomorrow_; Moses, _Unofficial Letters of An Official's Wife_;
+Hamm, _Manila and the Philippines_; Younghusband, _The Philippines and
+Round About_; Stevens, _Yesterdays in the Philippines_; Arnold, The
+Philippines, _the Land of Palm and Pine_; and LeRoy, _Philippine Life in
+Town and Country_.
+
+
+HONGKONG
+
+Good descriptive sketches of Hongkong may be found in Norman, _The
+Peoples and Politics of the Far East_; Des Veux, _A Handbook of
+Hongkong_; Colquhoun, _China in Transformation_; Penfield, _East of
+Suez_; Treves, _The Other Side of the Lantern_; Ball, _Things Chinese_;
+Thomson, _The Changing Chinese_; Singleton, _China As Described by Great
+Writers_; and Liddell, China, _Its Marvel and Mystery_.
+
+
+SINGAPORE
+
+Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, was one of the
+British Empire builders who was very shabbily treated by the English
+government. Unaided, he prevented the Dutch from obtaining exclusive
+control over all the waters about Singapore and he was also
+instrumental in retaining Malacca, after the East India Company had
+decided to abandon it. He was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of
+Java after the English wrested the island from the Dutch in 1810.
+His ambition was to make Java "the center of an Eastern Insular
+Empire," but this project was thwarted by the restoration of Java
+to Holland. The Raffles Museum in Singapore, one of the most
+interesting in the Orient, was his gift.
+
+Sketches of Singapore may be found in Sir Frank Swettenham's
+_British Malaya_, _Malay Sketches_ and _The Real Malay_; Wright and
+Reed, _The Malay Peninsula_; Belfield, _Handbook of the Federated
+Malay States_; Harrison, _Illustrated Guide to the Federated Malay
+States_; Ireland, _The Far Eastern Tropics_; Boulger, _Life of Sir
+Stamford Raffles_; Buckley, _Records of Singapore_.
+
+
+RANGOON
+
+There is a large literature on Burma, which seems to have appealed to
+British travelers. Among the books that have chapters devoted to Rangoon
+are Cuming, _In the Shadow of the Pagoda_; Bird, _Wanderings in Burma_;
+Hart, _Picturesque Burma_; Kelly, _The Silken East_; MacMahon, _Far
+Cathay and Farther India_; Vincent, _The Land of the White Elephant_;
+Nisbet, _Burma Under British Rule and Before_; Hall, _The Soul of a
+People_ and _A People at School_.
+
+
+INDIA
+
+The literature about India is very extensive, so that only a few of the
+best books may be mentioned here. To the tourist the one indispensable
+book is Murray's _Handbook for Travelers in India, Ceylon and Burma_,
+which is well provided with maps and plans of cities. For general
+description, among the best works are Malcolm, _Indian Pictures and
+Problems_; Scidmore, _Winter India_; Forrest, _Cities of India_;
+Kipling, _From Sea to Sea_; Stevens, _In India_; Arnold, _India
+Revisited_; Low, _A Vision of India_ (describing the journey of the
+Prince of Wales in 1905-6); Caine, _Picturesque India_; _Things Seen in
+India_.
+
+For the history of India, some of the best books are Lane-Poole,
+_Mediaeval India_ and _The Mogul Emperors_; Fanshawe, _Delhi, Past and
+Present_; McCrindle, _Ancient India_; Rhys-Davids, _British India_;
+Roberts, _Forty-one Tears in India_; Holmes, _History of the Indian
+Mutiny_; Innes, _The Sepoy Revolt_; Curzon, _Russia in Central Asia_;
+Colquhoun, _Russia Against India_.
+
+On the religions of India: Rhys-Davids, _Buddhism_; Warren, _Buddhism in
+Translations_; Clarke, _Ten Great Religions_; Hopkins, _Religions of
+India_; Arnold, _The Light of Asia_.
+
+
+EGYPT
+
+Egypt has changed so much during the last twenty years that books
+written before that time are practically obsolete. The dahabiyeh is no
+longer used for Nile travel, except by tourists of means and large
+leisure, since the tourist steamers make the trip up and down the Nile
+in one quarter the time consumed by the old sailing vessels. Cairo has
+been transformed into a European city and even Luxor is modernized, with
+its immense hotels and its big foreign winter colony.
+
+Baedeker's Egypt is the best guide book, but be sure that you get the
+latest edition, as the work is revised every two or three years. The
+introductory essays in this volume on Egyptian history, religion, art
+and Egyptology are well worth careful reading. The descriptions of the
+ruins and the significance of many of the hieroglyphs are helpful. Of
+general descriptive works on Egypt, some of the best are Penfield,
+_Present Day Egypt_ (1899); Jeremiah Lynch, _Egyptian Sketches_, a book
+by a San Franciscan which gives a series of readable pictures of Cairo
+and the voyage up the Nile; Holland, _Things Seen in Egypt_.
+
+Of Egypt, before it was transformed by the British, standard
+works are Lane, _Cairo Fifty Tears Ago_; Lady Duff-Gordon, _Letters
+From Egypt_ (covering the period from 1862 to 1869). Good
+historical works are Lane-Poole, _Egypt, and the Story of Cairo_;
+Ebers, _Egypt, Descriptive, Historical, and Picturesque_.
+
+Of the administration of England in Egypt, the best book is
+Lord Cromer's _Modern Egypt_. Other works are Milner, _England
+in Egypt_; Colvin, _The Making of Modern Egypt_. The story of
+Gordon's death at Khartoum is well told in Stevens, _With Kitchener
+to Khartoum_ and Churchill, _The River War_.
+
+Several valuable works on Egyptian archeology have been written by
+Maspero and Flinders-Petrie. Maspero's _Art in Egypt_, which is lavishly
+illustrated, will be valuable as a guide book. Flinders-Petrie's
+_Egyptian Decorative Art_ is worth reading.
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+Agra, East Indian city of interesting features, 111;
+  the Taj Mahal, 112-116
+
+Arjmand, favorite wife of Shah Jehan, for whom the Taj was built, 112
+
+
+Benares, sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105;
+  bathing ghats along the Ganges, 100-102;
+  toll levied by priests on all bathers, 103;
+  burning the dead by the river banks, 104-105;
+  funeral ceremonies, 105
+
+Bombay, gateway of India, 123-134;
+  beauty of public buildings, 123-124;
+  the Apollo Bunder, 124;
+  importance of the Parsees in city life, 124-1126;
+  reception to King George V, 127;
+  holiday street scenes, 128;
+  religion and customs of the Parsees, 129-130;
+  wedding ceremonies, 132;
+  "Towers of Silence" where dead are exposed to vultures, 133-134
+
+Buddhism, temples at Nikko, 17;
+  greatest temple, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon, 90;
+  first residence of Buddha at Sarnath, near Benares, 100
+
+
+Cairo, the capital of Egypt, 137-142;
+  much Europeanized since Ismail's time, 138-139;
+  the Street of the Camel, 138-140;
+  Esbekiyeh Gardens, 140;
+  shopping in the great Muski bazar, 141;
+  Island of Roda, where Moses was found, 142;
+  scenes in the old native city, 142
+
+Calcutta, greatest commercial port of India, 95-99;
+  former capital, 95;
+  the Maidan or Esplanade, 95-96;
+  Eden Gardens, 95;
+  scene of the Black Hole, 96;
+  caste marks, 97;
+  scenes in bathing ghats on the Hoogly, 98;
+  native quarter, 98-99;
+  botanical gardens with great banyan tree, 99;
+  Imperial Museum, 99
+
+Canton, the great business center of China, 72-79;
+  exodus of people during revolution, 73;
+  boat city on the Pearl river, 73-74;
+  "hot-foot" boats, 75;
+  inside the ancient walls, 76-77;
+  deserted stores on main street, 76;
+  Buddhist Temple of Horrors, 77;
+  great rush of refugees, 77-78;
+  scene of the assassination of Tartar general, 78;
+  old Buddhist water clock, 78
+
+Cawnpore, scene of the worst massacre in the Sepoy mutiny, 109-110;
+  fatal mistake of General Wheeler, 109;
+  treachery of Nana Sahib, 110;
+  butchery of women and children, 110
+
+Chator, Sir Paul, who made Hongkong a great city, 81
+
+
+Delhi, ancient Mogul capital of India, 117-122;
+  tombs of Moslem emperors, 117-118;
+  squalor of common people, 119;
+  Mogul palaces and mosques, 119-120;
+  the Kutab Minar, 120-121;
+  memorials of the mutiny, 121-122;
+  fighting at Kabul gate, 122
+
+
+Egypt, the land of tombs, pyramids and mummies, 137-164;
+  railroad ride from Port Said, 138;
+  features of the country, 138-139;
+  Cairo and its picturesque life, 138-142;
+  Luxor and Karnak ruins of finest temples of ancient Egypt, 143-149;
+  Thebes, tomb city of the Egyptian Kings, 150-155;
+  sailing down the Nile, 156-160;
+  Pyramids and the Sphinx, 161-164
+
+
+Havelock, English General who fought his way into Lucknow and
+    helped defend the city against hordes of mutineers, 108
+
+Hideyoshi, Napoleon of Japan, his memory revered, 19;
+  his castle, 29
+
+Hongkong, greatest British port in the Orient, 65-71;
+  its fine public buildings and spacious water-front, 66;
+  splendid shops on Queen's road, 67;
+  picturesque street crowds, 68;
+  mixture of races, 68;
+  night scenes in native quarter, 69;
+  cable railway to the peak, 70;
+  costly residences on mountain side, 70;
+  Kowloon City, 71
+
+
+India, the most interesting country of the Orient, 95-104;
+  Calcutta, most beautiful of Indian cities, 95-99;
+  Benares, the sacred city of the Hindoos, 100-105;
+  Lucknow and Cawnpore, cities of the mutiny, 106-110;
+  Agra and the Taj Mahal, 111-116;
+  Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital and now the British
+    capital, 117-122;
+  Bombay, the European gateway of India, 123-134;
+  the Parsees and their curious customs, 129-134
+
+
+Japan, Yokohama, 3;
+  aspect of rural life, 4;
+  bull, the beast of burden 5;
+  the jinrikisha, 5;
+  great courtesy of all classes, 6;
+  women as field hands, 8;
+  Tokio, the picturesque capital, 10-15;
+  Nikko, city of temples, 16-21;
+  Kyoto, the ancient capital, famous for gardens and art work, 22-27;
+  railway travel, 22-23;
+  Kobe,28-33;
+  Osaka, chief manufacturing city, 29;
+  Inland Sea, 30;
+  Nagasaki, 30-32;
+  development of sense of beauty, 34-37;
+  influence of the garden on artistic sense, 34-35;
+  are the Japanese honest? 28-39;
+  influence of Christianity, 41-42;
+  the sampan, 43;
+  influence of military training, 45-46;
+  loyalty to country, 46-47
+
+
+Karnak, the greatest temple of ancient Egypt, 147-149;
+  its enormous size, 147;
+  its hypostile hall, one of the wonders of the world, 147-148;
+  hieroglyphs of Seti and Rameses, 148;
+  obelisks erected by Queen Hatasu, 148;
+  colossal statues and columns, 148;
+  cost in human life, 149
+
+Kobe, greatest commercial seaport of Japan, 28-29;
+  its many foreign schools, colleges and missions, 28
+
+Kyoto, ancient Japanese capital, 22-27;
+  richly decorated temples, 24;
+  satsuma, cloissone and damascene work, 24-25;
+  attractive shops, 26;
+  great bronze Daibutsa, 26;
+  oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, 27
+
+
+Lawrence, Sir Henry, to whose wise precautions the British in Lucknow
+    owed their lives during the mutiny; he was killed in the early
+    days of the siege, 107.
+
+Lucknow, scene of the most famous siege in the Indian mutiny, 106-109;
+  ruins of the Residency, 106;
+  story of the siege, 107-108;
+  memorial tablets to British heroes, 108
+
+Luxor, with ruins of the finest temple in Egypt, 143-146;
+  built by Amenophis III; restored and enlarged by
+    Rameses II, 143-144;
+  plan of the temple, 144-145;
+  Rameses exposed by Egyptologists, 146;
+  temple of Karnak, 147-149
+
+
+Manila, capital of Philippines and American naval base in
+    Far East, 51-62;
+  hospitality of Americans, 52;
+  reenforced concrete favorite building material, 52;
+  its splendid docks, 52;
+  the Escolta, 52;
+  the Bridge of Spain, 53;
+  the carabao or water buffalo, 53;
+  old walled city, 54;
+  historical gates, 54;
+  famous churches, 55;
+  doors open to the ambitious Filipino youths, 56;
+  influence of American schools, 56-57;
+  Dr. George W. Wright on religious work in Philippines, 56-57;
+  sanitary reforms which have made Manila healthy port, 57;
+  work of the Constabulary Guard, 58;
+  scenes on the Luneta, 60;
+  nipa huts of natives, 61-62;
+  fondness of people for music, 62;
+  American gramophones in native huts, 62
+
+
+Nana Sahib, the evil genius of the Indian mutiny, who broke faith
+    with prisoners at Cawnpore, shot the men, and ordered
+    125 women and children butchered and cast into a well, 109
+
+Nara, seat of oldest temples in Japan, 26-27;
+  tame deer in park, 26
+
+Nicholson, John, Brigadier-General, the ablest man the Indian mutiny
+    produced, 121;
+  he led the British march on Delhi and fell at the storming of
+    the Lahore gate, 122
+
+Nagasaki, great Japanese seaport, 30-33;
+  girls coaling steamers, 31-32;
+  trip to Mogi, 33
+
+Nikko, the Japanese city of temples, 16-21;
+  eighth century Buddhist temple, 17;
+  Sacred Red Bridge, 17;
+  imperial tombs, 17-19;
+  school pilgrimages, 19;
+  famous cryptomeria avenue to Imaichi, 20-21
+
+Nile, sailing down the, 156-160;
+  importance of river to Egypt, 156;
+  ancient method of irrigation by shadouf, 157-158;
+  poor pay for hard work, 158;
+  prevalence of eye diseases, 159;
+  squalid homes of the natives, 160;
+  beauty of views along the Nile, 160
+
+
+Osaka, Japan's chief manufacturing city, 29;
+  Hideyoshi's castle, 29
+
+
+Parsees, importance in municipal life of Bombay, 129;
+  religion that of Zoroaster, 129-130;
+  gifts by rich Parsee merchants, 131;
+  quaint marriage customs, 132;
+  towers of silence where dead are exposed, 133-135
+
+Pyramids, among the oldest human work on earth, 161-163;
+  size and cost of construction, 162-163;
+  ascent of Gizeh, 163;
+  features of the Sphinx, 164;
+  rock tombs of Sakkara, 164
+
+
+Raffles, Sir Stamford, the maker of Singapore and founder of great
+    Malayan museum, 81
+
+Rangoon, Burma's largest city, 89-92;
+  elephants piling teak, 89-90;
+  Shwe Dagon Pagoda, center of the Buddhist faith in Orient, 90-91;
+  splendid decoration of shrines, 91-92
+
+
+Shah Jehan, the greatest builder among the Mogul Emperors of India,
+    who immortalized his name by erecting the Taj Mahal, 112
+
+Singapore, gateway to the Far East, 80-88;
+  humidity of atmosphere, 80;
+  world's largest dry dock, 81;
+  Sir Stamford Raffles, 81;
+  great mixture of races, 81-82;
+  traits of the Malay, 83;
+  importance of Chinese, 84-85;
+  night scenes in Malay and Chinese quarters, 85-87;
+  large opium dens, 87;
+  fine botanical gardens, 88
+
+
+Taj Mahal, the world's most beautiful building at Agra, India, 111-116;
+  built by Shah Jehan as memorial to favorite wife, 112;
+  cost in money and human life, 112;
+  its perfect architecture, 114;
+  lavish decoration, 115;
+  restoration by Lord Curzon, 116
+
+Thebes, tomb city of the ancient Egyptian kings, 150-155;
+  desolate site across the Nile from Luxor, 150-151;
+  electric-lighted tombs, 151;
+  rock-hewn tomb of Rameses IV, 152;
+  tombs of other monarchs, 152-153;
+  only one contains royal mummy, 154;
+  fine temple of Queen Hatasu, 153;
+  the Ramessium, with largest statue found in Egypt, 154;
+  Colossi of Memnon, 154;
+  why one of the statues was musical, 155
+
+Tokio, the Japanese capital, 10-15;
+  its splendid parks, 11-13-14;
+  imperial palace, 13;
+  tombs of six shoguns, 14;
+  night work in shops, 15
+
+
+Wheeler, General, whose confidence in his native troops,
+    cost the lives of all the garrison of Cawnpore, 109
+
+
+Yokohama, much Europeanized Japanese city, 3;
+  good tourist outfitting point, 4
+
+
+
+
+   AND SO ENDS THE CRITIC IN THE ORIENT, CONTAINING
+    THE IMPRESSIONS OF GEORGE HAMLIN FITCH ON THE
+  FIRST HALF OF HIS TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. PUBLISHED
+         IN BOOK FORM BY PAUL ELDER & COMPANY
+     AND SEEN THROUGH THEIR TOMOYE PRESS BY JOHN
+     SWART DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL, MCMXIII, IN
+              THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:
+
+Inconsistencies in the hyphenation of words retained. (hotfoot,
+hot-foot)
+
+In the original text, captions of plates and illustrations did not have
+terminating punctuation except for the caption of Plate XXXVII. This
+caption had a terminating period which has been retained.
+
+In the original text, italic typeface was used for the entire text and
+headings of the chapters "Introduction" and "The Best Results of Travel
+in the Orient". In the plaintext version of this ebook, the usual
+underscore markup has not been used to indicate italic type in these
+chapters. Elsewhere in the text, occasional words in italic typeface
+have been marked up with underscores.
+
+Pg. 12, unusual spelling of "embassadors" retained.
+
+Pg. 12, duplicated word "of" removed. (mansions of the Japanese")
+
+Pg. 112, duplicated word "on" removed. (little trace on its walls)
+
+Pg. 161, "hugh" changed to "huge". (as huge as the pyramid)
+
+Index. In the original text, the last sub-item of an index entry did not
+end with any terminating punctuation except for the index entry
+"Lawrence, Sir Henry". This entry had a terminating period which
+has been retained.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Critic in the Orient, by George Hamlin Fitch
+
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