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diff --git a/27021-h/27021-h.htm b/27021-h/27021-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..06af143 --- /dev/null +++ b/27021-h/27021-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9298 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet, by A. Henry Savage Landor</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + + .author {text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;} + + .font8 {font-size: .8em; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +.fm1 {font-size: 125%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold; +} + +.fm2 {font-size: 100%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold; +} + +.fm3 {font-size: 95%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold; +} + +.fm4 {font-size: 85%; + text-align: center; + font-weight: bold; +} + + table {margin: auto; text-align: center; width: 26em;} + td.tdl {text-align: left; padding-right: .5em;} + td.tdr {text-align: right; padding-left: .5em;} + td.tdc {text-align: center;} + td.page {font-size: 90%; + +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + + +.sidenote { + width: 15%; + padding-bottom: .5em; + padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; + padding-right: .5em; + margin-right: .5em; + float: left; + clear: right; + margin-top: 1em; + font-size: smaller; + color: black; + background: #eeeeee; + border: dashed 1px; +} + +.transnote { background-color: #ADD8E6; color: inherit; margin: 2em 10% 1em 10%; font-size: 80%; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;} +.transnote p { text-align: left;} +a.correction {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted red; color: inherit; background-color: inherit;} +a.correction:hover {text-decoration: none;} + +.bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + +.bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + +.bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + +.br {border-right: solid 2px;} + +.bbox {border: solid 2px;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold; text-align: center;} + + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + +.poem span.i4 { + display: block; + margin-left: 4em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + + hr.full { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + pre {font-size: 85%;} +// --> +/* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet, by A. +Henry Savage Landor</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet</p> +<p>Author: A. Henry Savage Landor</p> +<p>Release Date: October 24, 2008 [eBook #27021]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN EXPLORER'S ADVENTURES IN TIBET***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Peter Vachuska, Carla Foust, Chuck Greif,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3> +<p> </p> +<div class="transnote"> +<h3>Transcriber's note</h3> + +<p>Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. An obvious +printer error has been corrected. It is indicated with a +<a class="correction" title="like this" href="#tnotes">mouse-hover</a>, +and it is listed at the <a href="#tnotes">end</a>. All other inconsistencies are as in +the original. The author's spelling has been maintained.</p></div> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="361" height="600" alt="cover" title=""></img> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span><br /></p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> + +<table summary="PORTRAITS"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<img src="images/figure-01-a1a.jpg" width="212" height="300" alt="figa1a" title=""></img> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<img src="images/figure-01-a2a.jpg" width="199" height="300" alt="figa2a" title=""></img> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table summary="PORTRAITS"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<img src="images/figure-01-a1b.jpg" width="211" height="300" alt="fig1b1b" title=""></img> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<img src="images/figure-01-a2b.jpg" width="197" height="300" alt="figa2b" title=""></img> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table summary="PORTRAITS"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc font8">THE AUTHOR, FEBRUARY,</td> +<td class="tdc font8">THE AUTHOR, OCTOBER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc font8">1897</td> +<td class="tdc font8">1897</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> +<h1>AN EXPLORER'S ADVENTURES<br /><br /> + +IN TIBET</h1> + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<p class="fm3">BY</p> + +<p class="fm1">A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR</p> + +<p class="fm3">AUTHOR OF</p> + +<p class="fm3">"<span class="smcap">In the Forbidden Land</span>"</p> + +<p class="fm3">"<span class="smcap">The Gems of the East</span>"</p> + +<p class="fm3">ETC. ETC.</p> + +<p><br /><br /></p> +<p class="fm1">WITH ILLUSTRATIONS<br /> +BY THE AUTHOR</p> +<p><br /><br /></p> +<p class="fm1">HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS</p> + +<p class="fm2">NEW YORK AND LONDON</p> + +<p class="fm2">MCMX</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span><br /></p> + +<p class="fm4">Copyright, 1910, by <span class="smcap">Harper & Brothers</span></p> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<p class="fm4"><i>All rights reserved</i></p> +<hr style="width: 15%;" /> +<p class="fm4">Published April, 1910.</p> + +<p class="fm4"><i>Printed in the United States of America</i></p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span><br /></p> +<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table summary="CONTENTS"> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">CHAP.</td> +<td class="tdr page" colspan="2">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Preface</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_vii">vii</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">I.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Forbidden Country</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">II.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">An Unknown Pass</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">III.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Narrow Escape</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">IV.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Watched by Spies</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">V.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Warned Back by Soldiers</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">VI.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Encounter with a High Tibetan Official</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">VII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">An Exciting Night Journey</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">VIII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Hungry Fugitives</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">IX. </td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">An Attempt at Mutiny</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">X.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Among Enemies and Robbers</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XI.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">In Strange Company</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Among the Lamas</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XIII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Life in the Monasteries</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XIV.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Another Disaster</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XV.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Followed by Tibetan Soldiers</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XVI.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">First White Man in the Sacred Province</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XVII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Disaster at the River</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XVIII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Captured</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_191">191</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XIX.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Threats of Death</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_203">203</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XX.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Terrible Ride</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_210">210</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XXI.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">The Executioner</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XXII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">A Charmed Life</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_233">233</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XXIII.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Led to the Frontier</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_245">245</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr">XXIV.</td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">With Friends at Last</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_257">257</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdl"><span class="smcap">Appendix</span></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_267">267</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span><br /></p> +<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATONS</h2> + +<table summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">THE AUTHOR</td> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_ii">Frontispiece</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">INVOLUNTARY TOBOGGANING</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>Facing p.</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">AT NIGHT I LED MY MEN UP THE MOUNTAIN IN A FIERCE SNOW-STORM</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">BEHIND OUR BULWARKS</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">THE BANDITS LAID DOWN THEIR ARMS</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">A NATURAL CASTLE</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">CAMP WITH GIGANTIC INSCRIPTIONS</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">TORRENTIAL RAIN</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">TIBETAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_174">174</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">PURCHASING PONIES</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_192">192</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">I WAS A PRISONER</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_194">194</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">DRAGGED INTO THE SETTLEMENT</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">CHANDEN SING BEING FLOGGED</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_202">202</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">THE RIDE ON A SPIKED SADDLE</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_218">218</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl">WE ATTACKED OUR GUARD WITH STONES</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_254">254</a></td> +</tr><tr> +<td class="tdl">CLIFF HABITATIONS</td> +<td class="tdl"><i>"</i></td> +<td class="tdr"><a href="#Page_262">262</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span><br /></p> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>This book deals chiefly with the author's adventures during a journey +taken in Tibet in 1897, when that country, owing to religious +fanaticism, was closed to strangers. For the scientific results of the +expedition, for the detailed description of the customs, manners, etc., +of the people, the larger work, entitled <i>In the Forbidden Land</i> (Harper +& Brothers, publishers), by the same author, should be consulted.</p> + +<p>During that journey of exploration the author made many important +geographical discoveries, among which may be mentioned:</p> + +<p>(<i>a</i>) The discovery of the two principal sources of the Great +Brahmaputra River, one of the four largest rivers in the world.</p> + +<p>(<i>b</i>) The ascertaining that a high range of mountains existed north of +the Himahlyas, but with no such great elevations as the highest of the +Himahlyan range.</p> + +<p>(<i>c</i>) The settlement of the geographical controversy regarding the +supposed connection between the Sacred (Mansarowar) and the Devil's +(Rakastal) lakes.</p> + +<p>(<i>d</i>) The discovery of the real sources of the Sutlej River.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<p>In writing geographical names the author has given the names their true +sounds as locally pronounced, and has made no exception even for the +poetic word "Himahlya" (the abode of snow), which in English is usually +misspelt and distorted into the meaningless Himalaya.</p> + +<p>All bearings of the compass given in this book are magnetic. Temperature +observations were registered with Fahrenheit thermometers.</p> + +<p> +A. H. S. L.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + +<h1> +AN EXPLORER'S ADVENTURES<br /> +IN TIBET +</h1> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> +<h1> +AN EXPLORER'S<br /> +ADVENTURES IN TIBET</h1> + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>A FORBIDDEN COUNTRY</h3> + + +<p>Tibet was a forbidden land. That is why I went there.</p> + +<p>This strange country, cold and barren, lies on a high tableland in the +heart of Asia. The average height of this desolate tableland—some +15,000 feet above sea-level—is higher than the highest mountains of +Europe. People are right when they call it the "roof of the world." +Nothing, or next to nothing, grows on that high plateau, except poor +shrubs and grass in the lower valleys. The natives live on food imported +from neighboring countries. They obtain this by giving in exchange wool, +borax, iron, and gold.</p> + +<p>High mountain ranges bound the Tibetan plateau on all sides. The highest +is the Himahlya range to the south, the loftiest mountain range on +earth. From the south it is only possible to enter Tibet with an +expedition in summer, when the mountain passes are not entirely blocked +by snow.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> +<p>At the time of my visit the law of Tibet was that no stranger should be +allowed to enter the country. The Tibetan frontier was closely guarded +by soldiers.</p> + +<p>A few expeditions had travelled in the northern part of Tibet, as the +country was there practically uninhabited. They had met with no one to +oppose their march save, perhaps, a few miserable nomads. No one, since +Tibet became a forbidden country to strangers, had been able to +penetrate in the Province of Lhassa—the only province of Tibet with a +comparatively thick population. It was this province, the most forbidden +of all that forbidden land, that I intended to explore and survey. I +succeeded in my object, although I came very near paying with my life +for my wish to be of use to science and my fellow-creatures.</p> + +<p>With the best equipment that money could buy for scientific work, I +started for the Tibetan frontier in 1897. From Bombay, in India, I +travelled north to the end of the railway, at Kathgodam, and then by +carts and horses to Naini Tal. At this little hill-station on the lower +Himahlyas, in the north-west Province of India, I prepared my +expedition, resolved to force my way in the Unknown Land.</p> + +<p>Naini Tal is 6407 feet above the level of the sea. From this point all +my loads had to be carried on the backs of coolies or porters. +Therefore, each load must not exceed fifty pounds in weight. I packed +instruments, negatives, and articles liable to get damaged in cases of +my own manufacture, specially designed for rough usage. A set of four + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> + +such cases of well-seasoned deal wood, carefully joined and fitted, +zinc-lined and soaked in a special preparation by which they were +rendered water and air tight, could be made useful in many ways. Taken +separately, they could be used as seats. Four placed in a row, answered +the purpose of a bedstead. Three could be used as seat and table. The +combination of four, used in a certain manner, made a punt, or boat, of +quick, solid, and easy construction, with which an unfordable river +could be crossed, or for taking soundings in the still waters of +unexplored lakes. The cases could be used as tanks for photographic +work. In case of emergency they might serve even as water-casks for +carrying water in regions where it was not to be found. Each of these +boxes, packed, was exactly a coolie load, or else in sets of two they +could be slung over a pack-saddle by means of straps with rings.</p> + +<p>My provisions had been specially prepared for me, and were suited to the +severe climate and the high elevations I should find myself in. The +preserved meats contained a vast amount of fat and carbonaceous, or +heat-making food, as well as elements easily digestible and calculated +to maintain one's strength in moments of unusual stress. I carried a +.256 Mannlicher rifle, a Martini-Henry, and 1000 cartridges duly packed +in a water-tight case. I also had a revolver with 500 cartridges, a +number of hunting-knives, skinning implements, wire traps of several +sizes for capturing small mammals, butterfly-nets, bottles for +preserving reptiles in alcohol, insect-killing bottles (cyanide of +potassium), a quantity of arsenical soap, bone nippers, scalpels, and +all other accessories necessary for the collection of natural-history + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> + +specimens. There were in my outfit three sets of photographic cameras, +and a dozen dry plates, as well as all adjuncts for the developing, +fixing, printing, etc., of the negatives. I had two complete sets of +instruments for astronomical observations and for use in surveying. One +set had been given to me by the Royal Geographical Society of London. +The other was my own. Each set consisted of the following instruments. A +six-inch sextant. The hypsometrical apparatus, a device used for +measuring heights by means of boiling-point thermometers, which had been +specially constructed for work at great elevations. It is well known +that the higher one goes, the lower is the temperature at which water +boils. By measuring the temperature of boiling water and at the same +time the temperature of the atmosphere at any high point on a mountain, +and working out a computation in relation to the boiling-point +temperature of a given place on the sea-level, one can obtain with +accuracy the difference in height between the two points.</p> + +<p>Two aneroid barometers were also carried, which were specially made for +me—one registering heights to 20,000 feet, the other to 25,000 feet. +Although I used these aneroids principally for differential heights +along my route, as aneroids cannot always be relied upon for great +accuracy, I found on checking these particular instruments with the +boiling-point thermometers that they were always extremely accurate. +This was, however, exceptional, and it would not do for any one to rely + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> + +on aneroids alone for the exact measurement of mountain heights. There +were in my outfit three artificial horizons—one with mercury, the +others constructed with a plate glass. The latter had a special +arrangement by which they could be levelled to a nicety. I found that +for taking observations for latitude and longitude by the sun the +mercury horizon was satisfactory, but when occultations had to be taken +at night the plate-glass horizons were easier to work, and gave a more +clearly defined reflection of stars and planets in such a bitterly cold +climate as Tibet, where astronomical observations were always taken +under great difficulty. The most useful instrument I carried on that +expedition was a powerful telescope with astronomical eyepiece. +Necessarily, I carried a great many compasses, which included prismatic, +luminous, floating, and pocket compasses. Maximum and minimum +thermometers were taken along to keep a record of the daily temperature, +and I also took with me a box of drawing and painting materials, as well +as all kinds of instruments for map-making, such as protractors, +parallel rules, tape rules, section paper, note-books, etc. I had +water-tight half-chronometer watches keeping Greenwich mean time, and +three other watches. In order to work out on the spot my observations +for latitude and longitude, I had with me such books as <i>Raper's +Navigation</i> and the <i>Nautical Almanac</i> for the years 1897 and 1898, in +which all the necessary tables for the computations were to be found.</p> + +<p>I was provided with a light mountain tent, usually called a <i>tente +d'abri</i>; it was seven feet long, four feet wide, and three feet high; it +weighed four pounds. All I needed in the way of bedding was one + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> + +camel's-hair blanket. My clothing was reduced to a minimum. My head-gear +was a mere straw hat, which was unfortunately destroyed at the beginning +of my journey, so that I went most of the time with my head uncovered or +else wore a small cap. I wore medium thick shoes without nails, and +never carried a stick. It was largely due to the simplicity of my +personal equipment that I was able to travel with great speed often +under trying circumstances. Although the preparations for my expedition +cost me several thousand dollars, I spent little money on medicines for +myself and my men; in fact, all they cost me was sixty-two cents (two +shillings and sixpence). I am firm in the belief that any healthy man +living naturally under natural conditions, and giving himself plenty of +exercise, can be helped very little by drugs.</p> + +<p>I started from Naini Tal and rode to Almora (5510 feet above sea-level), +the last hill-station toward the Tibetan frontier where I expected to +find European residents. At this place I endeavored to obtain plucky, +honest, wiry, healthy servants who would be ready, for the sake of a +good salary and a handsome reward, to brave the many discomforts, +hardships, and perils my expedition into Tibet was likely to involve. +Scores of servants presented themselves. Each one produced a certificate +with praises unbounded of all possible virtues that a servant could +possess. Each certificate was duly ornamented with the signature of some +Anglo-Indian officer—either a governor, a general, a captain, or a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> + +deputy commissioner. What struck me mostly was that bearers of these +testimonials seemed sadly neglected by those who had been so +enthusiastically pleased with their services. They all began by begging, +or else asked, for a loan of rupees in order to buy food, clothes, and +support the dear ones they would be leaving behind.</p> + +<p>I was sitting one day in the post resting-house when an odd creature +came to offer his services. "Where are your certificates?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"<i>Sahib, hum 'certificates' ne hai</i>" (Sir, I have no certificates).</p> + +<p>I employed him at once. His facial lines showed much more character than +I had noticed in the features of other local natives. That was quite +sufficient for me. I am a great believer in physiognomy and first +impressions, which are to me more than any certificate in the world. I +have so far never been mistaken.</p> + +<p>My new servant's dress was peculiar. His head was wrapped in a white +turban. From under a short waistcoat there appeared a gaudy yellow and +black flannel shirt, which hung outside his trousers instead of being +tucked in them. He had no shoes, and carried in his right hand an old +cricket-stump, with which he "presented arms" every time I came in or +went out of the room. His name was Chanden Sing. He was not a skilful +valet. For instance, one day I found him polishing my shoes with my best +hair-brushes. When opening soda-water bottles he generally managed to +give you a spray bath, and invariably hit you in the face with the +flying cork. It was owing to one of these accidents that Chanden Sing, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +having hurt my eye badly, was one day flung bodily out of the door. +Later—as I had no more soda water left—I forgave him, and allowed him +to return. It was this man who turned out to be the one plucky man among +all my followers. It was he who stood by me through thick and thin +during our trials in Tibet.</p> + +<p>From Almora up to what is usually called Bhot (the country upon the +Himahlya slopes on the British side of the frontier) our journey was +through fairly well-known districts; therefore, I shall not dwell on the +first portion of our route. I had some thirty carriers with me. We +proceeded up and down, through thick forests of pine and fir trees, on +the sides of successive mountain ranges.</p> + +<p>We went through the ancient Gourkha town of Pithoragarh, with its old +fort. Several days later I visited the old Rajah of Askote, one of the +finest princes Northern India then possessed. I went to see the Raots, a +strange race of savages living, secluded from everybody, in the forest. +In a work called <i>In the Forbidden Land</i> a detailed description will be +found of my experiences with those strange people, and also of our long +marches through that beautiful region of the lower Himahlyas.</p> + +<p>We reached at last a troublesome part of the journey—a place called the +Nerpani, which, translated, means "the waterless trail." Few travellers +had been as far as this point. I shall not speak of the ups and down at +precipitous angles which we found upon the trail, which had been cut +along the almost vertical cliff. Here and there were many sections of +the trail which were built on crowbars thrust horizontally into the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +rock. A narrow path had been made by laying over these crowbars large +slabs of stone not particularly firm when you trod over them. As you +went along this shaky path on the side of the precipice the drop down to +the river at the bottom of the cliff was often from 1800 to 2000 feet, +and the path in many places not wider than six inches. In other places +the Nerpani trail consisted of badly put together flights of hundreds of +steps along the face of the cliff.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>AN UNKNOWN PASS</h3> + + +<p>It was at a place called Garbyang, close to the Tibetan boundary, that I +made my last preparations for my expedition into Tibet. A delay at this +place was inevitable, as all the passes over the Himahlya range were +closed. Fresh snow was falling daily. I intended to cross over by the +Lippu Pass, the lowest of all in that region; but having sent men to +reconnoitre, I found it was impossible at that time to take up my entire +expedition, even by that easier way.</p> + +<p>I had a Tibetan tent made in Garbyang. Dr. H. Wilson, of the Methodist +Evangelical Mission, whom I met at this place, went to much trouble in +trying to get together men for me who would accompany me over the +Tibetan border. His efforts were not crowned with success. The thirty +men I had taken from India refused to come any further, and I was +compelled to get fresh men from this place. The Shokas (the local and +correct name of the inhabitants of Bhot) were not at all inclined to +accompany me. They knew too well how cruel the Tibetans were. Many of +them had been tortured, and men could be seen in Garbyang who had been +mutilated by the Tibetans. Indeed, the Tibetans often crossed the border +to come and claim dues and taxes and inflict punishment on the helpless +Shokas, who were left unprotected by the Government of India.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-02.jpg" width="370" height="600" alt="fig2" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">INVOLUNTARY TOBOGGANING</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +The Jong Pen of Taklakot, a high official at the Tibetan frontier, upon +hearing of my proposed visit, sent threats that he would confiscate the +land of any man who came in my employ. He sent messengers threatening to +cut off my head if I crossed the boundary, and promised to flog and kill +any man who accompanied me. On my side I had spies keeping me well +informed of his movements. He kept on sending daily messengers with more +threats. He gathered his soldiers on the Lippu Pass, where he suspected +I might enter his country.</p> + +<p>Before starting with my entire expedition I took a reconnoitring trip +with only a few men, in order to see what tactics I should adopt in +order to dodge the fanatical natives of the forbidden land. To go and +find new ways on virgin mountains and glaciers was not easy work. During +our rapid scouting journey we had a number of accidents. Going over a +snow-slope one day I slipped and shot down a snow-slope with terrific +speed for a distance of three hundred yards, just escaping getting +smashed to pieces at the end of this involuntary toboganning. One of my +carriers, who carried a child on the top of one of my loads, had a +similar accident, with the result that the child was killed.</p> + +<p>On returning to Garbyang I found that the Tibetans had tried to set the +natives against me. Tibetan spies travelled daily between Taklakot and +Garbyang, in order to keep the Jong Pen informed of my movements. The + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> + +Jong Pen sent an impudent messenger one day to say that he had plenty +of soldiers guarding the Lippu Pass, and that he would kill us all if we +came. If he caught me alive he would cut off my head; my body, he said, +he would sew in skins and fling into the river. I sent a messenger back +to the Jong Pen to inform him that I was ready to start, and that I +would meet him on the Lippu Pass; that he had better beware, and get out +of my way. The messenger who brought him this news barely escaped with +his life. He returned to me, saying that the Jong Pen was preparing for +war, that he had gathered all his soldiers on the top of a narrow pass, +where they had piled up a great number of large rocks and smaller +ammunition to be rolled down upon us when we should be coming up the +mountain-side.</p> + +<p>Having collected men enough, after much trouble, I one day unexpectedly +mustered them, and that same night made a sudden start. The Tibetans, +suspecting that I might be leaving that day, cut down the bridge over a +rapid and deep torrent forming the boundary between India and Nepal. +This inconvenienced me, as I had to find my way on our side of the +stream, which was very rugged. This gave us additional trouble. Some of +the precipices we had to cross were extremely dangerous.</p> + +<p>I reached the highest village in the Himahlyas, a place called Kuti, at +an elevation of 12,920 feet. Here I hastily made my final preparations +for the last dash across the frontier. Every available Shoka had joined +my party, and no inducement brought more volunteers. I needed two extra +men. Two stray shepherds turned up half famished and naked, with long, +unkempt heads of hair, and merely a coral necklace and a silver bangle + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +by way of clothing. With these two men my little force was brought up to +thirty strong.</p> + +<p>One of the two shepherds interested me. He was sulky. He seldom uttered +a word, and when he did, he never spoke pleasantly. He looked painfully +ill. Motionless, he would sometimes stare at a fixed point as if in a +trance. His features were peculiarly refined and regular, but his skin +had the ghastly, shiny, whitish tinge peculiar to lepers. I paid no +special attention to him at first, as I was busy with other matters; but +one day while on the march I examined him carefully, and discovered that +the poor fellow had indeed all the symptoms of that most terrible of all +diseases, leprosy. His distorted and contracted fingers, with the skin +sore at the joints, were a sad and certain proof. I examined his feet, +and found further evidence that the man was a leper.</p> + +<p>"What is your name?" I inquired of him.</p> + +<p>"Mansing," he said, dryly, becoming immediately again absorbed in one of +his dreamy trances.</p> + +<p>In looking over my followers I was amused to see what a strange mixture +they were. There were Humlis and Jumlis, mountain tribesmen living near +the Tibetan border; they wore their long black hair tied into small +braids and a topknot. There were Tibetans, Shokas, Rongbas, +Nepalese—all good mountaineers. Then there were Chanden Sing and +Mansing belonging to the Rajiput caste. There were a Brahmin, two native +Christians, and a Johari. Then Doctor Wilson. What a collection! What a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> + +confusion of languages and dialects! An amusing feature of this odd +crowd was that each particular caste looked down upon all the others. +This, from the beginning, occasioned a good deal of trouble among my +men. I was glad of this, as it seemed a sort of guarantee that they +would never combine against me. One of the most peculiar men I had with +me was a Tibetan brigand, a man with the strength of an ox. His history +did not bear a close examination. He had killed many people. He asked to +be employed by me, as he had quarrelled with his wife, and refused to +live with her any longer. In camp he went by the name of <i>Daku</i> (the +brigand). The son of one of the richest traders of Garbyang, a young +fellow called Kachi, also accompanied me. He was intelligent, and could +speak a few words of English. I had employed him to look after the men +and to act as interpreter, if necessary. His uncle Dola was employed in +the capacity of valet and cook.</p> + +<p>Instead of proceeding by the Lippu Pass, where the Jong Pen was waiting +for me with his men, I made forced marches from Kuti in a different +direction altogether. I meant to cross over by a high untrodden pass, +practically unknown, where no one could suspect that a caravan would +enter Tibet. My men were good. We marched steadily for several days over +very rough country, getting higher and higher toward the eternal snows. +We suffered considerably in crossing the rapid and foaming torrents. +They were often quite deep, and the water was so cold from the melting +snows that we were nearly frozen each time we waded through them. We +crossed several large flat basins of stones and gravel which appeared + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> + +to have been lake-beds. In these basins we found deltas, formed by the +stream dividing in various directions. We suffered tortures in crossing +barefooted one cold stream after another. Some of my men narrowly +escaped frost-bites, and it was only after rubbing their feet violently +that the intense pain ceased and circulation was at last restored. The +soles of my feet and my toes were badly cut and bruised. Every stone in +the streams seemed to have a sharp edge. I, too, suffered agony after I +had been in the water for some time. Never until that day did I know +what a great comfort it was to possess a pair of warm socks! The last +basin we crossed was at an elevation of 15,400 feet. We made our camp +there. The thermometer registered a minimum temperature of 24°, whereas +the maximum temperature that day was 51° Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>One of the main drawbacks of travelling at great elevations was the want +of fuel. There was not a tree, not a shrub, to be seen near our camp. +Nature wore her most desolate and barren look. Failing wood, my men +dispersed to collect and bring in the dry dung of yaks, ponies, and +sheep to serve as fuel. Kindling this was no easy matter. Box after box +of matches was quickly used, and our collective lung-power severely +drawn upon in blowing the unwilling sparks into a flame a few inches +high. Upon this meagre fire we attempted to cook our food and boil our +water (a trying process at great elevations). The cuisine that night was +not of the usual excellence. We had to eat everything half-cooked, or, +to be accurate, practically uncooked. The night was a bitterly cold + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> + +one, and snow was falling heavily. When we rose in the morning snow was +two feet deep around us. The glare was painful to our eyes. I mustered +my men. Mansing was missing. He had not arrived the previous night, and +there was no sign of the man I had sent in search of him. I was anxious +not only for the man, but for the load he carried—a load of flour, +salt, pepper, and five pounds of butter. I feared that the poor leper +had been washed away in one of the dangerous streams. He must, at any +rate, be suffering terribly from the cold, with no shelter and no fire.</p> + +<p>It was long after sunrise when, with the aid of my telescope, I +discovered the rescued man and rescuer coming toward us. They arrived in +camp an hour or so later. Mansing had been found sound asleep, several +miles back, lying flat by the side of the empty butter-pot. He had eaten +all the butter. When we discovered this every one in camp was angry. The +natives valued fat and butter as helping to keep them warm when going +over those cold passes. With much trouble I rescued Mansing from the +clutches of my other men, who wanted to punish the poor leper severely. +In order that this might not happen again, I ordered Mansing to carry a +heavy load of photographic plates and instruments, which I thought would +not prove quite so appetizing.</p> + +<p>While we were camping a flock of some six hundred sheep appeared, and +with them some Tibetans. As I had pitched my Tibetan tent, they made for +it, expecting to find some of their own countrymen. Their confusion was +amusing when they found themselves face to face with Doctor Wilson and + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> + +myself. Hurriedly removing their fur caps, they laid them upon the +ground and made a comical bow. They put out their tongues full length, +and kept them so until I made signs that they could draw them back, as I +wanted them to answer several questions. This unexpected meeting with us +frightened them greatly. They were trembling all over with fear. After +getting as much information as they seemed to have, I bought their +fattest sheep. When the money was paid there was a further display of +furred tongues, and more grand salaams when they departed, while all +hands in my camp were busy trying to prevent our newly purchased animals +from rejoining the flock moving away from us. On our next march these +animals were a great trouble. We had to drag them most of the way. +Kachi, who had been intrusted with a stubborn, strong beast, which I had +specially promised my men for their dinner if they made a long march +that day, was outwitted by the sheep. It freed its head from the cord +with which Kachi was dragging it, and cantered away full speed in the +opposite direction to the one in which we were travelling. It is well +known that at great altitudes running is a painful operation, for the +rarefied air makes such exertion almost suffocating. Yet Kachi, having +overcome his first surprise, was soon chasing the escaped beast, and, +urged by the cheers of my other men, succeeded, after an exciting race, +in catching the animal by its tail. This feat is easier to describe than +to accomplish, for Tibetan sheep have very short, stumpy tails. Kachi +fell to the ground exhausted, but he held fast with both hands to his + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> + +capture, and finally the animal was secured with ropes.</p> + +<p>Climbing over rolling ground, we rose to a pass 15,580 feet high—over a +thousand feet higher than Pike's Peak, in Colorado. Then crossing a +wide, flat land, we followed the Kuti River, with its high, snowy +mountains to the west and east. The line of perpetual snow was at 16,000 +feet; the snow below this level melted daily, except in a few shaded +places. Red and white flowers were still to be seen, though not in such +quantities as lower down. We saw many pairs of small butterflies with +black-and-white wings.</p> + +<p>After a while there was yet another bitterly cold stream to ford, two +small lakes to skirt, and three more deep rivers to wade, with cold +water from the snows reaching up to our chests. We had to make the best +way we could through a large field of iron-bearing rock, which so +affected my compass that for the time it became quite unreliable, owing +to its deviation.</p> + +<p>Mile after mile we marched over sharp stones, wading through another +troublesome delta fully a mile in width with eight streams, and crossing +a flat basin of pointed pebbles. At last, to our great comfort, we came +to smooth grass-land.</p> + +<p>Here the Kuti River flowed through a large basin, not unlike the one +near which we had camped the night before. It looked like the bed of a +lake, with high vertical rocks on the left. As we went on to the +north-west the basin became wider and the Kuti River turned to the +north-west, while the Mangshan River, descending from the east, joined + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> + +the first stream in the centre of the basin. In wading through the +numerous branches of the two rivers we felt more than ever the trials +and weariness of the day before. The water seemed colder than ever. Our +feet were by this time in a dreadful condition, bleeding and sore, +because it was constantly necessary to walk barefooted rather than keep +removing our foot-gear every few minutes. Aching and chilled, we +stumbled on, in and out of the water, always treading, it seemed, on +sharply pointed stones. The pain had to be borne patiently. At last we +reached our camping-ground, situated under the lee of the high chain of +mountains to the north of us and on the northern bank of the Mangshan +River. Directly in front of us stood the final obstacle—the great +backbone of the Himahlyas. Once across this range, I should be on the +high Tibetan plateau so accurately described as "the roof of the +world."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>A NARROW ESCAPE</h3> + + +<p>From Kuti I had sent a sturdy Shoka named Nattoo to find out whether it +was possible to cross the Himahlyan chain over the high Mangshan Pass. +In case of a favorable report, I should be able to get several marches +into Tibet without fear of being detected. I reckoned on turning the +position occupied by the force of soldiers which I was informed the Jong +Pen of Taklakot had gathered on the Lippu Pass in order to prevent my +entering his country. Before the Tibetans could have time to find where +I was, I should be too far into the forbidden land for them to catch me +up. Nattoo duly returned. He had been half-way up the mountain. The snow +was deep, and there were huge and treacherous cracks in the ice. An +avalanche had fallen, and it was merely by a miracle that he had escaped +with his life. He had turned back without reaching the summit of the +pass. He was scared and worn out, and declared it was impossible for us +to proceed that way. The thrilling account of the Kutial's misfortunes +discouraged my men. What with the intense cold, the fatigue of carrying +heavy loads at high elevations over such rough country, and the dreaded +icy-cold rivers which they had crossed so often, my carriers became + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> + +absolutely demoralized at the thought of new hardships ahead. I did not +believe Nattoo. I determined to go and see for myself.</p> + +<p>It was half-past four in the afternoon, and therefore some little time +before sunset. There should be moonlight. I had on that day marched +eight miles. It must be remembered that at high elevations the effort of +walking eight miles would be as great as to walk twice as far at lower +altitudes. Though my feet were wounded and sore, I was not tired. Our +camp was at a height of 16,150 feet, an elevation higher than the +highest mountain in Europe. Doctor Wilson insisted on accompanying me on +my reconnoitring trip. Kachi Ram and a Rongba coolie also volunteered to +come. Bijesing, the Johari, after some persuasion, got on his feet to +accompany our little exploration party. Chanden Sing was left in charge +of the camp, with strict orders to punish severely any one who might +attempt to escape during my absence.</p> + +<p>We set out, following up-stream the course of the Mangshan River boxed +in between high cliffs which finally met at the glacier at the foot of +the Mangshan Mountain, about three miles east-south-east of our camp. It +was very hard to walk over the large, slippery stones, where one's feet +constantly slipped and were jammed between rocks, straining and hurting +the ankles. Since I did not trust my demoralized followers, who seemed +on the verge of mutiny, I did not care to leave behind in camp the heavy +load of silver rupees (R. 800) sewn in my coat. I always carried that +sum on my person, as well as my rifle, two compasses (a prismatic and a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> + +luminous), two aneroids, one half-chronometer and another watch, and +some thirty rifle cartridges. The combined weight of these articles was +considerable, and on this particular afternoon it was almost too much +for my strength. We travelled up and down the series of hillocks, and in +and out of the innumerable channels that centuries of melting snow and +ice had cut deep into the mass of loose stones. At the point where the +two ranges met there stood before us the magnificent pale-green +ice-terraces of the Mangshan glacier, surmounted by great snow-fields +rising to the summit of the mountain range. Clouds enveloped the higher +peaks. The clear ice showed vertical streaks, especially in the lower +strata, where it was granulated. The base, the sides, and top of the +exposed section were covered with a thick coat of snow. The Mangshan +River rose from this glacier.</p> + +<p>We left the glacier (17,800 feet above sea-level), to the right, and, +turning sharply northward, began our ascent toward the pass. The snow we +struggled over was so soft and deep that we sank into it up to our +waists. Occasionally there was a change from snow to patches of loose +débris and rotten rock. The fatigue of walking on such a surface was +simply overpowering. Having climbed up half a dozen steps among the +loose, cutting stones, we would slide back almost to our original point +of departure, followed by a small avalanche of shifting material that +only stopped when it got to the foot of the mountain.</p> + +<p>At a height of 19,000 feet we walked for some time on soft snow, which +covered an ice-field with deep crevasses and cracks. We had to feel our + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> + +way with great caution, particularly as by the time we reached that spot +we had only the light of the moon to depend upon.</p> + +<p>As we rose higher, I began to feel a curious exhaustion that I had never +experienced before. At sunset the thermometer which Kachi carried had +fallen 40° within a few minutes, and the sudden change in the +temperature seemed to affect us all. We went on, with the exception of +Bijesing, who was seized with such violent mountain sickness that he was +unable to proceed. The doctor, too, a powerfully built man, was +suffering considerably. His legs, he said, had become like lead, and +each seemed to weigh a ton. The effort of lifting, or even moving, them +required all his energy. Although he was gasping pitifully for breath, +he struggled on bravely until we reached an elevation of 20,500 feet. +Here he was overcome with exhaustion and pain, and he was unable to go +further. Kachi Ram, the Rongba, and I went ahead, but we also were +suffering, Kachi complaining of violent beating in his temples and loud +buzzing in his ears. He gasped and staggered dangerously, threatening to +collapse at any moment. At 21,000 feet he fell flat on the snow. He was +instantly asleep, breathing heavily and snoring convulsively. His hands +and feet were icy cold. What caused me more anxiety than anything was +the irregular beating and throbbing of his heart. I wrapped him up in +his blanket and my waterproof, and, having seen to his general comfort, +I shouted to the doctor (the voice in the still air carrying for a long +distance) telling him what had happened. I pushed on with the Rongba, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> + +who was now the only one of the party who had any strength left.</p> + +<p>A thick mist suddenly enveloped us, which added much to our trials. +After we left Kachi at 21,000 feet we made desperate efforts to get on. +Our lungs seemed about to burst, and our hearts throbbed as if they +would beat themselves out of our bodies. Exhausted and weighed down by +irresistible drowsiness, the Rongba and I at last reached the summit. +Almost fainting with fatigue, I registered my observations. The altitude +was 22,000 feet, the hour 11 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> There was a strong, cutting +north-easterly wind. The cold was intense. I was unable to register the +exact temperature, as I had forgotten to take my thermometer out of +Kachi's pocket when he collapsed. The stars were wonderfully brilliant, +and when the mist cleared the moon shone brightly for a while over the +panorama around me. Though it was a view of utter desolation, it was +certainly strangely attractive. The amount of snow on the northern slope +of the range was greater than on the southern. I realized the +impossibility of taking my entire expedition over this high point. Below +me, to the south, were mountainous ranges buried in snow, and to the +south-west and north-east were peaks even higher than the one where I +stood. To the north stretched the immense, dreary Tibetan plateau with +undulations and intricate hill ranges, beyond which a high mountain +range with snow-peaks could just be perceived in the distance.</p> + +<p>I had barely taken in this beautiful view of nature asleep when the mist + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> + +again rose before me, and I saw a huge ghost rising out of it. A tall, +dark figure stood in the centre of a luminous circle wrapped in an +enormous veil of mist. The effect was wonderful. It was only after some +moments that I realized that the ghost had my features, and that I stood +in the centre of a circular lunar rainbow, looking at an enlarged +reflection of myself in the mist. When I moved my arms, my body, or my +head the ghost-like figure moved also. I felt very much like a child +placed for the first time in front of a mirror, as I made the great +image move about and repeat any odd motion that I might make. On a later +occasion I saw a spectre, when the sun was up, with a circular rainbow +round it. The moonlight effect differed from this, in that the colors of +the rainbow were but faintly distinguishable.</p> + +<p>The Rongba had fallen exhausted. I felt so faint with the unusual +pressure on my lungs that, despite all the efforts to resist it, I also +collapsed on the snow. The coolie and I, shivering pitifully, shared the +same blanket in order to keep warm. Both of us were seized with +irresistible sleepiness. I fought hard against it, for I well knew that +if my eyelids once closed they would almost certainly remain so forever. +The Rongba was fast asleep. I summoned my last atom of vitality to keep +my eyes open. The bitter wind hissed by us. How that hiss still echoes +in my ears! The Rongba crouched down, moaning through chattering teeth. +His sudden shudders showed that he was in great pain. It seemed only +common charity to let him have the entire blanket, which was in any case + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> + +too small for both. I wrapped it tightly round his head and his +doubled-up body. The exertion was too much for me. In absolute +exhaustion I fell back on the snow. I made a last desperate effort to +look at the glittering stars ... my sight became dim....</p> + +<p>How long this semi-consciousness lasted I do not know. "This is +terrible! Doctor! Kachi!" I tried to speak. My voice seemed choked in my +throat. Was what I saw before me real? On the vast white sheet of snow +Kachi and the doctor lay motionless, like statues of ice, as if frozen +to death. In my nightmare I tried to raise them. They were rigid. I +knelt beside them, calling them, and striving with all my might to bring +them back to life. Half dazed, I turned to look for Bijesing, and, as I +did so, all sense of vitality seemed to freeze within me. I saw myself +enclosed in a quickly contracting tomb of transparent ice. I felt that +I, too, would shortly be frozen to death like my companions. My legs, my +arms, were already icy. Horror-stricken as I was at the approach of such +a ghastly death, I felt a languor and sleepiness far from unpleasant. +Should I let myself go, choosing rest and peace rather than effort, or +should I make a last struggle to save myself? The ice seemed to close in +more and more every moment. I was suffocating.</p> + +<p>I tried to scream, to force myself through the ice, which seemed to +crush me. I gave a violent plunge. Then everything vanished ... the +frozen Kachi, the doctor, the transparent tomb....</p> + +<p>I opened my eyes. They ached as if needles had been stuck into them. It +was snowing hard. I had temporarily lost the use of my legs and fingers. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> + +They were almost frozen. In waking up from the ghastly nightmare, I +realized instantly that I must get down at once to a lower level. I was +already covered with a layer of snow. It was snowing hard when I woke, +and I suppose it was the cold snow on my forehead that caused my +nightmare. It is quite probable that, had it not been for the sudden +shudder which shook me free, I should never have awakened.</p> + +<p>I sat up with difficulty, and slowly regained the use of my lower limbs +by rubbing and beating them. I roused the Rongba, rubbed him, and shook +him till he was able to move. We began our descent.</p> + +<p>Undoubtedly the satisfaction of going up high mountains is great, but +can it ever be compared to the delight of coming down again?</p> + +<p>The incline being extremely steep, we took long strides on the snow. +When we came to patches of débris we slid down at a great pace amid a +deafening roar from the huge mass of loose stones set in motion by our +descent. It was still snowing.</p> + +<p>"Hark!" I said to the Rongba. "What is that?"</p> + +<p>With hands up to our ears we listened attentively.</p> + +<p>"<i>Ao, ao, ao! Jaldi ao! Tumka hatte?</i>" (Come, come, come! Come quickly! +Where are you?) cried a faint, distressed voice from far down below.</p> + +<p>We quickened our pace. With hardly any control over our legs our descent +was precipitous. The snow-fall ceased, and we became enveloped in a +freezing thick mist which pierced into our very bones.</p> + +<p>Guided by the anxious cries of the doctor, we continued our breakneck + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> + +journey downward. The cries became more and more distinct, and at last +we came face to face with Wilson, still helpless.</p> + +<p>He had been uneasy about us, and during our long absence had quite given +us up for lost.</p> + +<p>We looked for and found Kachi. He had slept like a top, curled up in his +warm blanket and my waterproof coat. He was now quite refreshed. All +together we continued our race downward with no serious mishaps. Life +and strength gradually came back to us when we descended to lower +heights.</p> + +<p>Over the same trying stony valley we reached camp in the morning. The +anxiety of my men in camp was intense. They had lost all hope of seeing +us again.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>WATCHED BY SPIES</h3> + + +<p>A few hours' rest, a hearty meal, and by 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we were ready again to +start, this time with the entire expedition, over the easier Lumpiya +Pass. The thermometer registered 40° inside the tent. The minimum +temperature outside, during the night, had been 14°. We followed the +Kuti River at the foot of the mountain range. On rounding a prominent +headland, where the Kuti River flowed through a narrow passage, we saw +on a mound fourteen stone pillars and pyramids with white stones on them +and some Tibetan "flying prayers," mere strips of cloth flapping in the +wind. It was from this point that the ascent of the Lumpiya Pass began.</p> + +<p>Our route gradually ascended, going north-west first, then swinging away +to the north-east, until we attained an elevation of 17,350 feet on a +flat basin covered with deep snow. So far we had gone on with no great +trouble, but matters suddenly changed for the worse. Each coolie in the +long silent row at the head of which I marched sank in snow up to his +knees, often up to his waist. Their dark faces, wrapped tightly round in +turbans, stood out in sharp contrast upon the white background. Some +wore fur caps with ear-flaps. All had sheepskin coats and high boots. +Many used snow-spectacles. Watching this silent procession of men with + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> + +heavy loads upon their backs, struggling higher and higher with piteous +panting, one could not help wondering anxiously as to how many of them +would return to their own country alive. Moving cautiously to avoid +treacherous crevasses, I made my way ahead to a spot six hundred feet +higher, where I halted for a while on a rocky island fairly clear of +snow. As coolie after coolie arrived panting hard, he dropped his load +and sat quietly by the side of it. There was not a grumble, not a word +of reproach for the hard work they were made to endure. Sleet was +falling, and everything was wet and cold. From this point there was a +steep pull before us. To the left we had a glacier, the face of which +was a precipitous wall of ice about one hundred feet in height. Like the +Mangshan glacier, it was in horizontal strata of beautifully clear ice +with vertical stripes of dark green.</p> + +<p>The doctor and I went ahead. In our anxiety to reach the summit we +mistook our bearings. With great fatigue we climbed an extremely steep +incline. Here we were on a patch of troublesome loose stones, on which +we struggled for over half an hour, until we reached the summit of the +range, 18,750 feet—considerably higher than the pass itself. Most of +the other men had proceeded by a dangerous way skirting the glacier.</p> + +<p>The wind from the north-east was piercing, and the cold intense. From +this high point we obtained a beautiful bird's-eye view of the Tibetan +plateau. Huge masses of snow covered the Tibetan side of the Himahlyas, +as well as the lower range of mountains immediately in front of us, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> + +lying almost parallel to our range. Two thousand feet below, between +these two ranges, flowed, in a wide barren valley, a river called the +Darma Yankti. This river is the principal source of that great river +which afterward takes the name of Sutlej. I was glad to be the first +white man to visit the place where it has its birth. In the distance a +flat plateau, rising some eight hundred feet above the river and +resembling a gigantic railway embankment, could be seen for many miles. +Far away to the north stood a chain of high blue mountains capped with +snow—undoubtedly the Gangri chain with the Kelas peaks.</p> + +<p>The strain of exertion in this rarefied air brought about a painful +incident. Exhausted from cold and fatigue, a man called Rubso, a +Christian convert, was seized with cramp. He was lying in a +semi-conscious state, his teeth chattering, his features distorted and +livid; his eyes were sunken and lifeless. We carried him under the +shelter of a rock and rubbed him vigorously, endeavoring to restore his +circulation. He eventually recovered enough to come along.</p> + +<p>From our high point we now had to descend to the pass six hundred feet +lower. We made our way along dangerous rocks and débris. I was clinging, +with half-frozen fingers, to a prominent rock when I heard screams of +distress from below. On the steep incline of snow two coolies, with +their respective loads, having lost their footing, were sliding at an +incredible speed. They finally reached the bottom of the basin, where +the change in the descent made them turn involuntary somersaults, while + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> + +their loads flew off in every direction. I was relieved when I saw the +men getting up again. One of them staggered, and fell back a second time +as if dead. Hastening over the slippery rocks, and then down over loose +stones, I reached the pass. This was 18,150 feet above the sea. Two +reluctant men were sent to the relief of the coolie in distress. He and +his load were at last carried up to the place where I was. He had been +badly shaken and was aching all over, but was able to continue with us.</p> + +<p>We hurried down the steep slope on the Tibetan side, to get away quickly +from the bitterly cold, windy pass. Describing a wide curve, and then +across several long snow-beds, we at last reached the river-level, and +pitched our tents on snow at an elevation of 16,900 feet. There was no +wood; no yak or pony dung, no lichens, no moss, and therefore nothing +with which we could make a fire. My men believed that eating cold food +at high elevations, when the temperature was low, led to certain death. +They preferred to remain without food altogether. Night came, and with +it the wind blowing in gusts, and piling the grit and snow around our +tents. In the night, when a hurricane was raging, we had to turn out of +our flapping canvasses several times to make the loosened pegs firmer. +Refastening the frozen ropes was icy-cold work. At 2 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> the +thermometer was down to 12°; at 9 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, in the sun, it went up to 26°, +and inside the tent at the same hour we had a temperature of +32°—freezing-point.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> + +In a hurricane of grit and drenching rain we packed our traps as best we +could and again started. To my surprise, as I was marching ahead of my +men, I noticed, some two hundred yards from my former camp, a double +line of recent footmarks in the snow. Those coming toward us were +somewhat indistinct and nearly covered with grit; those going in the +opposite direction seemed quite recent. After carefully examining these +footprints, I became certain that they had been left by a Tibetan. Where +the footprints were nearest our camp, marks in the snow showed that the +man had at different points laid himself flat on the snow. We had +evidently been spied upon and watched during the night. My men, who were +already showing fear of the Tibetans, were now all anxiously stooping +over these footprints. Some of them thought that the stranger must be a +<i>daku</i> (a brigand), and that at night we should be attacked by the whole +band; others maintained that the spy could only be a soldier sent by the +Gyanema officers to watch our movements. This incident was held by them +as an evil omen.</p> + +<p>We were travelling on flat or slightly rolling barren ground. We waded +across another cold river with water up to our waists. My men became so +tired that one mile further we were obliged to halt. The elevation of +this point was 16,650 feet.</p> + +<p>The cold was intense. Again we had no fuel of any kind. A furious wind +was blowing. Snow fell heavily in the evening. My carriers, half +starved, ate a little <i>satoo</i> (a kind of oatmeal), but Chanden Sing, a +Rajiput, could not, without breaking his caste, eat his food without +undressing. It was two days since he had eaten his last meal, but + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> + +rather than break the rules of his religion, or take off his clothes +when it was so cold, he chose to curl up in his blanket and go to sleep +fasting.</p> + +<p>Inside the tent the temperature was 28° Fahrenheit, or below +freezing-point. There was a foot of snow upon the ground, and it was +snowing heavily. The carriers, huddled close together so as to keep +warm, attempted to sleep in order to forget their hunger.</p> + +<p>Two or three hours later the weather cleared. The coolies, half starved, +came to complain that they were again unable to find fuel to cook their +food, and that they would leave me. It was a trying time. I immediately +took my telescope and climbed to the top of a small mound. It was +curious to see how much faith the coolies had in this spy-glass. They +believed, in a child-like fashion, that with it I could see through +mountains. I came down with the good news that one day's march beyond +would bring us to a spot where fuel was plentiful.</p> + +<p>They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set forth with +unusual energy in the direction I had pointed out. We followed a course +parallel to the high, flat plateau on the other side of the stream. This +snow-covered plateau extended from south-west to north-east. Beyond it +to the north could be seen some high, snowy peaks—in all probability +the lofty summits south-east of Gartok. To our right we were flanked by +high, rugged mountains, with streams here and there dashing down their +sides. Six hours' brisk marching took us to a sheltered spot where a few + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> + +lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had suddenly descended into the +Black Forest of Germany or the Yosemite Valley with their gigantic +trees centuries old, our delight could not have been greater, yet the +tallest of these shrubs stood no higher than six or seven inches from +the ground, while the biggest piece of wood we collected was no larger +around than an ordinary pencil. With all possible haste all hands went +to work to root up these plants for fuel.</p> + +<p>When night came the same number of hands were busy cooking and swiftly +ladling out such steaming food as was available from the different pots +to the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness reigned in camp. All +recent hardships were forgotten.</p> + +<p>A fresh surprise was awaiting us when we rose. Two Tibetans disguised as +beggars came to our camp. They pretended to be suffering from cold and +starvation. I gave orders that they should be properly fed and kindly +treated. On being cross-examined they confessed that they were spies +sent by the officer at Gyanema to find out whether a white man had +crossed the frontier, and whether we had seen him.</p> + +<p>We had so many things to attend to in the morning, and it was so cold, +that washing had really become a nuisance. I, for my part, gave it up, +at least for the time. We were sunburnt, and we wore turbans and +snow-glasses, so the Tibetans departed under the impression that our +party consisted of a Hindoo doctor, his brother, and a caravan of +servants (none of whom had seen a white man), and that we were now on a +pilgrimage to the sacred Mansarowar Lake and Kelas Mount.</p> + +<p>In the presence of the men we treated this as a great joke, but, all + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> + +the same, Wilson and I anxiously consulted as to our immediate plans. +Should we make a rapid march during the night over the mountain range to +our right, and strike east by the wilds, or should we face the Gyanema +leader and his soldiers?</p> + +<p>We decided to meet them rather than go out of our way. I gave orders to +break camp at once.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>WARNED BACK BY SOLDIERS</h3> + + +<p>We altered our course from north to north-east, rising to 16,600 feet. +We arrived at Lama Chokten, a pass protected by a Tibetan guard. The +soldiers quickly turned out, matchlocks in hand. They seemed a miserable +lot. They offered no resistance, but begged for money and food. The men +complained of ill-treatment from their superiors. They received no pay, +and even food was only occasionally sent to them at this outpost. Their +tunics were in rags. Each man carried a sword stuck in front through the +girdle. Here, too, we had more inquiries about the young sahib, the +white man. Messengers on horseback had been sent post-haste from +Taklakot to warn the Gyanema officer not to let him penetrate into +Hundes (the Tibetan name for Tibet) should he attempt to come by the +Lumpiya Pass. Their description of my supposed appearance was amusing +enough to me, and when they said that if the sahib came their way they +would cut off his head, I felt so touched by their good-natured +confidence that I wanted to distribute a few rupees among them.</p> + +<p>"Don't give them anything, sir," said Kachi and the doctor. "These +fellows are friends of the dacoits. If these get to know that you have + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> + +money, we shall run great risk of being attacked by them."</p> + +<p>I insisted on giving them a present.</p> + +<p>"No, sir," cried Kachi; "do not do it, or it will bring us trouble and +misfortune. If you give them four annas, that will be ample."</p> + +<p>Accordingly the commanding officer had this large sum deposited in his +outstretched palm. To show his satisfaction, he put out his tongue to +its full length, waved both hands in sign of gratitude, bowing clumsily +at the same time. His fur cap had been previously removed and thrown on +the ground. It was a great deal of ceremony over a gift which amounted +to somewhat less than eight cents.</p> + +<p>From this place I saw a beautiful sight. To the north the clouds had +scattered, and the snow-covered sacred Kelas Mountain rose up before us. +Not unlike the graceful roof of a temple, Kelas towered over the long, +white-capped range, contrasting in its beautiful blending of tints with +the warm sienna color of the lower elevations. Kelas was some two +thousand feet higher than the other peaks of the Gangri chain. It showed +strongly defined ledges and terraces marking its stratification, and +these were covered with horizontal layers of snow of brilliant white in +contrast to the dark, ice-worn rock. The Tibetans, the Nepalese, the +Shokas, the Humlis, Jumlis, and Hindoos, all had a strong veneration for +this mountain, which was believed by them to be the abode of all the +good gods, especially the god Siva. In fact, the ledge round its base + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> + +was said by the Hindoos to be the mark of the ropes used by the devil +"Rakas" in his effort to pull down the throne of Siva.</p> + +<p>My men, with heads uncovered, their faces turned toward the sacred peak, +were muttering prayers. With joined hands, which they slowly raised as +high as the forehead, they prayed fervently, and then went down on their +knees, with heads touching the ground. My brigand follower, who was +standing close by me, hurriedly whispered that I should join in the +prayers.</p> + +<p>"You must keep friends with the gods," said the bandit; "misfortune will +attend you if you do not bow to Kelas. That is the home of a good god!" +And he pointed to the peak with the most devout air of conviction.</p> + +<p>To please him, I saluted the mountain with great deference, and, +imitating the example of my men, placed a white stone on one of the +<i>Choktens</i> or <i>Obos</i> (stone pillars). Hundreds of these had been erected +at this place by devotees. These Obos, or rough pyramids of stones, were +to be found on the paths over high passes, near lakes, and at the source +of rivers. At no place had I seen so many as at Lama Chokten. Each +passer-by deposited a white stone on one of these Obos. This was +supposed to bring good fortune.</p> + +<p>The guard-house itself, of rough stone, would in any country but Tibet +be recognized as better fitted for pigs than for human beings.</p> + +<p>Having gone a mile or so further, as the sun was fast disappearing we +searched for a suitable spot to pitch our tents. There was no sign of +water, only the stony bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> + +situation when we heard a faint sound of rushing water. It grew louder +and louder, and then we saw coming our way a stream of limpid snow-water +gradually creeping over a bed of stones. Evidently the snow of the +mountains, which had melted during the day, had only now reached the +spot where we stood. My brigand was greatly excited.</p> + +<p>"Water flowing to you, sahib!" he exclaimed, with his arms outstretched. +"You will have great luck! Look! Look! You want water for your camp, and +a stream comes to you! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your fingers +into the water as soon as it comes up to you, and throw some drops over +your shoulders. Fortune will then attend you on your journey."</p> + +<p>I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition. We all dipped our +fingers and sprinkled the water over our backs. Wilson, however, who +took the matter quite seriously, said it was all nonsense, and would not +give in to such "childish superstitions."</p> + +<p>In front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial land, about +ten miles long and fourteen wide, which apparently had once been the bed +of a lake. With my telescope I could see at the foot of a small hill the +camping-ground of Karko. There were many tents. My men seemed reassured +when by their shape and color we made out the tents to be those of +Joharis from Milam, who came over to this place to trade with the +Tibetans. Beyond Karko to the north a stretch of water, the Gyanema +Lake, shone brilliantly, and beyond it could be seen comparatively low +hill ranges. In the distance more snowy peaks were visible.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> + +On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles in a north-easterly +direction, and then turned into a smaller valley well enclosed by hills, +which we followed for a distance of three or four miles.</p> + +<p>During our march we saw many herds of <i>kiang</i> (wild horse). They came +close to us. They resembled zebras, except that they were light brown in +color. Their graceful and coquettish ways were most attractive. The +natives regarded the proximity of these animals as dangerous, for their +apparent tameness was merely in order to get quite near the unwary +traveller, and then, with a sudden dash, inflict a horrible bite.</p> + +<p>Having climbed over a hill range, we descended on the other side into a +grassy stretch of flat land with a lake on the northern side. On a hill +south of the lake stood the Gyanema fort, a primitive, tower-like +structure of stone, with a tent pitched over it to answer the purpose of +a roof. Two dirty white rags hung from a flagstaff. These were not +national flags, but merely wind-prayers. Lower down, at the foot of the +hill, were two or three large black tents and a small shed of stone. +Hundreds of black, white, and brown yaks<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> were grazing on the green +patches of grass.</p> + +<p>The appearance of our party evidently frightened everybody, for we had +hardly shown ourselves on the summit of the pass when in the fort a gong +began to sound loudly, filling the air with its metallic notes. A shot +was fired. Soldiers with their matchlocks<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> ran here and there. They + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> + +pulled down one of the black tents and hastily conveyed it inside the +fort. The greater part of the garrison sought shelter within the walls +of the fort with the hurry almost of a stampede. When, after some time, +they made up their minds that we did not mean to hurt them, some of the +Tibetan officers, followed by their men, came trembling to meet us. The +doctor, unarmed, went ahead to talk to them, while Chanden Sing and I +remained with the coolies in order to protect our baggage in case of a +treacherous attack, and to prevent my frightened carriers from +abandoning their loads and escaping. Matters looked peaceful enough. +Rugs were spread on the grass, and finally we all sat down. An hour of +tiresome talking with the Tibetan officers, while the same things were +repeated over and over again, led to nothing. They said they could on no +account allow any one from India, whether native or sahib, to proceed, +and we must go back. We, on our side, stated that we were doing no harm. +We were pilgrims to the sacred Lake of Mansarowar, only a few miles +farther. We had gone to much expense and trouble. How could we now turn +back when so near our goal? We would not go back, and trusted they would +allow us to proceed.</p> + +<p>We treated them courteously. Probably mistaking this for fear, they +promptly took advantage of it, especially the Magbun, the +General-in-Chief in charge of the Gyanema fort. His humble manner, of +which at first he had made so much display, suddenly turned into +arrogance.</p> + +<p>"You will have to cut off my head," said he, with a vicious + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> + +countenance, "or, rather, I will cut off yours, before I let you go +another step."</p> + +<p>"Cut off my head!" I cried, jumping on my feet and shoving a cartridge +into my rifle.</p> + +<p>"Cut off my head!" repeated Chanden Sing, pointing with his +Martini-Henry at the official.</p> + +<p>"Cut off our heads!" exclaimed the Brahmin, angrily, and the two +Christian servants of Dr. Wilson, while they handled a Winchester and a +couple of Gourkha <i>kukris</i> (large knives).</p> + +<p>"No, no, no, no! Salaam, salaam, salaam!" shouted the Magbun, with the +quickness of a panic-stricken man. "Salaam, salaam," repeated he again, +bowing down to the ground, tongue out, and placing his hat at our feet +in a disgustingly servile manner. "Let us talk like friends."</p> + +<p>The Magbun's men, no braver than their master, shifted about in a casual +manner, so as to be behind their superior officers in case of our +firing. On second thought, feeling that they were not safe even so +screened, they got up. One after the other the Tibetans walked away for +half-a-dozen steps slowly, to impress upon us that it was not fear that +made them leave, and then took to their heels.</p> + +<p>The Magbun and the officers who remained became meek. We spoke and +argued in a friendly manner for two long hours, but with no result. The +Magbun could not decide of his own accord. He would consult with his +officers, and he could give us an answer no sooner than the next + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> + +morning. In the mean time he would provide for our general comfort and +insure our safety, if we would encamp near his tent. This, of course, I +well knew to be a trick to gain time, so as to send for soldiers to +Barca, north of the Rakastal Lake, as well as to all the neighboring +camps. I frankly told him my suspicions, but added that I wished to deal +fairly with the Tibetan authorities before resorting to force. I +reminded the Magbun again and made him plainly understand that we were +merely peaceful travellers, and had not come to fight; that I was paying +tenfold for anything I purchased from him or his men, and was glad to do +so; but at the same time, let any one beware who dared touch a single +hair of a member of my party! The Magbun declared that he understood +perfectly. He swore friendship, and as friends he begged us to stop over +the night near his camp. By the Sun and Kunjuk Sum (Trinity) he gave a +solemn oath that we should in no way be harmed. He took humble leave of +us and retired.</p> + +<p>The doctor and I had been sitting in front. Next were Chanden Sing, the +Brahmin, and the two Christians. The carriers were behind. When the +Magbun had gone, I turned round to look at my followers. What a sight! +They one and all were crying, each man hiding his face in his hands. +Kachi had tears streaming down his cheeks, Dola was sobbing, while the +brigand and the other Tibetan in my employ, who had for the occasion +assumed a disguise, were hiding behind their loads. Serious though the +situation was, I could not help laughing at the fright of my men.</p> + +<p>We pitched our tents. I had been sitting inside, noting the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> + +observations which I had taken with my instruments and writing up my +diary, when Kachi crept in, apparently in great distress. He seemed so +upset that he could hardly speak.</p> + +<p>"Master!" he whispered. "Master! The Tibetans have sent a man to your +coolies threatening to kill them if they remain faithful to you. They +must abandon you during the night. If you attempt to hold them they have +orders to kill you."</p> + +<p>At the same time that this agent had been sent to conspire with my +coolies, other envoys of the Magbun brought into my camp masses of dry +dung to make our fires. These men conveyed to me again the Magbun's +renewed declarations of friendship. Nevertheless, soldiers were sent in +every direction by the Tibetan official to call for help. I saw them +start. One messenger went toward Kardam and Taklakot, a second proceeded +in the direction of Barca, a third galloped to the west.</p> + +<p>My carriers were evidently preparing to leave me. I watched them, +unseen, through an opening in the tent. They were busily engaged +separating their blankets and clothes from my loads, dividing the +provisions among themselves, and throwing aside my goods. I went out to +them, patiently made them repack the things, and warned them that I +would shoot any one who attempted to revolt or desert.</p> + +<p>While the doctor and I sat down to a hearty meal, Chanden Sing was +intrusted with the preparations for war on our side. He cleaned the +rifles with much care, and got the ammunition ready. He was longing to + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> + +fight. The Brahmin, on whose faithfulness we could also rely, remained +cool and collected through the whole affair. He was a philosopher, and +never worried over anything. He took no active part in preparing for our +defence, for he did not fear death. God alone could kill him, he argued, +and all the matchlocks in the country together could not send a bullet +through him unless God wished it. And if it be God's decree that he +should die, what would be the use of rebelling against it? The two +converts, like good Christians, were more practical, and lost no time in +grinding the huge blades of their <i>kukris</i>, in order to make them as +sharp as razors.</p> + +<p>When darkness came I placed a guard a little distance off our camp. It +seemed likely that the Tibetans might make a rush on our tent if they +had a chance. One of us kept watch all night outside the tent, while +those inside lay down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by their +side. I cannot say that either Dr. Wilson or I felt very uneasy, for the +Tibetan soldiers, with their clumsy matchlocks, long spears, and +jewelled swords and daggers, were more picturesque than dangerous.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> A kind of ox with long hair.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Old muskets fired by a fusee, with a prong to rest the +barrel on.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>ENCOUNTER WITH A HIGH TIBETAN OFFICIAL</h3> + + +<p>Early the next morning we were roused by the distant sound of tinkling +horse-bells. On looking out of the tent I saw a long row of pack-ponies +heavily laden, escorted by a number of mounted soldiers with matchlocks +and spears. It was evident that some high official was coming. This +advance-guard consisted of his inferior officers and baggage. They took +a long sweep far away from our tent, and dismounted at the Gyanema fort. +Other soldiers and messengers were constantly arriving in groups from +all directions. The leader of one party, with a large escort of +soldiers, was received with profuse salaams. I concluded that he must be +an important person.</p> + +<p>After some time a message was sent to us that this new-comer, the Barca +Tarjum, wished to have the honor of seeing us. His rank might be +described as that of a feudal prince. We replied that we were having our +breakfast, and that we would send for him when we wished to speak to +him. Our experience had taught us that it was better to treat Tibetan +officials as inferiors, as they were then more subdued and easier to +deal with. At eleven, we sent a messenger to the fort, to say we should +be pleased to receive the Tarjum. He came immediately with a large + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> + +following. He was a picturesque figure dressed in a long coat of green +silk of Chinese shape, with large sleeves turned up, showing his arms up +to the elbow. He had a cap similar to those worn by Chinese officials, +and he was shod in heavy, long black boots, with large nails under the +soles. His long, pale, angular face was remarkable in many ways. It was +dignified and full of repose. Though somewhat weak, his features were +rather fine. Long hair fell in loose curls down to his shoulders. +Hanging from his left ear was a large ear-ring, with malachite ornaments +and a pendant. In his nervous fingers he held a small roll of Tibetan +material, which he used with both hands as a handkerchief. He blew his +nose inconsequently every time he was at a loss to answer a question. +The Tarjum and his men were profuse in their bows, and there was, as +usual, a great display of tongues.</p> + +<p>We had rugs placed outside our principal tent. The doctor and I sat on +one, asking the Tarjum to sit on the one facing us. His followers +squatted around him. It is a well-known fact that in Tibet, if you are a +"somebody," or if you wish people to recognize your importance, you must +have an umbrella spread over your head. Fortunately the ever-prudent +doctor had two, and these were duly spread over our respective heads. +The Tarjum himself was shaded under a parasol of colossal dimensions, +held in position by his secretary.</p> + +<p>In spite of the extravagant terms of friendship which fell from the +Tarjum's lips, I was convinced, by studying the man's face, that his +words were insincere, and that it would be unsafe to trust him. He + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> + +never looked us straight in the face. His eyes were fixed on the ground +all the time, and he spoke in an unpleasantly affected manner. I did not +like the man from the very first, and, friend or no friend, I kept my +loaded rifle on my lap.</p> + +<p>After long, heavy speeches, clumsy compliments, and tender inquiries on +the state of health of all relatives they could possibly think of, after +repeated blowing of the nose and loud coughing, which always came on +when we asked whether they had yet decided what we should be allowed to +do, at last, when my patience was nearly exhausted, our negotiations of +the previous day were reopened. We argued for hours. We asked to be +allowed to go on. They were still uncertain whether they would let us or +not. To simplify matters, and hasten their decision before other +reinforcements arrived, the doctor applied for permission to let only +eight of us proceed to Mansarowar. He (the doctor) himself would remain +at Gyanema with the rest of the party, as a proof of good faith. Even +this offer they rejected, not directly, but with hypocritical excuses +and delays. They thought we could not find our way, and that if we did +we should find it rough and the climate too severe; that brigands might +attack us, and so on. All this was tiresome. The Tibetans were even +getting unpleasant. I decided to bring matters to a crisis.</p> + +<p>Still holding the rifle cocked at safety on my lap, I turned the muzzle +of it toward the Tarjum, and purposely let my hand slide down to the +trigger. He became uncomfortable. His face showed signs of +apprehension.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> + +His eyes, until now fixed on the ground, became first unsteady, and then +settled fixedly, with a look of distress, on the muzzle of my rifle. He +tried to dodge the aim, right or left, by moving his head. I made the +weapon follow his movements. The Tarjum's servants fully shared their +master's fear. Without doubt the poor fellow was in agony; his tone of +voice, a moment before loud and insulting, now became very humble. With +much meekness he expressed himself ready to please us in every way.</p> + +<p>"I see that you are good people," said he, in a faint whisper +accompanied by a deep bow. "I cannot give, as I should like, my official +approval to your journey forward, but you can go if you wish. I cannot +say more. Eight of you can proceed to the sacred Mansarowar Lake. The +others will remain here."</p> + +<p>Before giving his final decision, he said that he would prefer to have +another consultation with his officers.</p> + +<p>We granted this readily.</p> + +<p>The Tarjum then presented the doctor with a roll of Tibetan cloth.</p> + +<p>I had bathed in the morning, and my Turkish towel was spread outside the +tent to dry. The Tarjum, who showed great interest in all our things, +took a particular fancy to its knotty fabric. He sent for his child to +see this wonderful material, and when he arrived the towel was placed on +the youth's back as if it were a shawl. I at once offered it to him as a +present if he would accept it. There were no bounds to his delight, and +our relations, somewhat strained a few minutes earlier, became now of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> + +the friendliest character. We invited the party inside our tent, and +they examined everything with curiosity, asking endless questions. They +were now quite pleasant, and even amusing. Tibetans have a craving for +alcohol. They soon asked if I had any to give them; there was nothing +they would like more. As I never carry intoxicants, I could not offer +whiskey, wine, or beer; but, not wishing to disappoint them, I produced +a bottle of methylated spirit<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> (which I used as fuel in my +hypsometrical<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> apparatus). This they readily drank, apparently liking +its throat-burning-qualities. They even asked for more. The Tarjum +complained of an ailment from which he had suffered for some time. The +doctor was able to give him a suitable remedy. All officers received +small presents. Then they departed.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon a messenger came from the Barca Tarjum. He had good +news for us. The Tarjum wished us to understand that, "as we had been so +kind to him and his followers, he regarded us as his personal friends. +As we were so anxious to visit the Mansarowar Lake and the great Kelas +Mount, and had already experienced many difficulties and great expense +in coming so far, he agreed that eight of our party should proceed to +these sacred places. It was impossible for him to give an official +consent, but he repeated again that we could go if we wished."</p> + +<p>This news naturally delighted me. Once at Kelas, I felt sure I could +easily go further.</p> + +<p>On the same evening a traitor in our camp sneaked from under the tent in + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> + +which my men were sleeping and paid a visit to the Tarjum. There is no +doubt that he told him I was not the doctor's brother nor a Hindoo +pilgrim. He disclosed that I was a sahib, and that I was on my way to +Lhassa. From what I heard afterward, it seemed that the Tarjum did not +quite believe his informant; but, fresh doubts arising in his mind, he +sent a message in the night, entreating us to return the way we had +come.</p> + +<p>"If there is really a sahib in your party, whom you have kept concealed +from me, and I let you go on, my head will be cut off by the Lhassa +officials. You are now my friends, and you will not allow this."</p> + +<p>"Tell the Tarjum," I replied to the messenger, "that he is my friend, +and I will treat him as a friend."</p> + +<p>In the morning we found thirty horsemen, fully armed, posted about one +hundred yards from our tent. To go ahead with my frightened men and be +followed by this company would certainly bring trouble. It was better to +adopt other tactics.</p> + +<p>Much to the astonishment of the armed force and their superiors, the +doctor, Chanden Sing, and I, rifles in hand, walked firmly toward the +company of soldiers. After us came the trembling coolies. The Magbun and +the Tarjum's officers could hardly believe their eyes. The soldiers +quickly dismounted and laid their weapons down, to show that they had no +intention of fighting. We passed without taking notice of them. The +Magbun ran after me. He begged me to stop one moment. A pair of prettily +embroidered cloth boots were produced from the loose folds of the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> + +official's coat, and he offered them to me with the following words:</p> + +<p>"Though your face is sunburnt and black, and your eyes are sore" (they +were not, as a matter of fact, but I wore snow-spectacles), "your +features tell me that you are of good family. You must be a high officer +in your country. Your noble feelings also show that you would not have +us punished for your sake, and now our hearts are glad to see you +retrace your steps. Let me offer you these boots, so that your feet may +not get sore on the long and difficult journey back to your native +land."</p> + +<p>It was neatly put, though the mode of reasoning was peculiar. I accepted +the boots. The Magbun and his guard salaamed to the ground.</p> + +<p>Without further parleying we left the Magbun, and, retracing our steps, +proceeded in a west-south-west direction, as though we had decided to +turn back and leave the country.</p> + +<p>We reached the summit of the hill and crossed to the other side. My men +went on down the slope, but I remained, hidden behind a large stone, to +observe with my telescope the people at Gyanema. No sooner had my last +man disappeared on the other side of the pass than the cavalrymen jumped +into their saddles, and, raising clouds of dust, galloped after us. This +was what I had expected. I hastened to rejoin my men. When down in the +plain, I again took my telescope and watched the sky-line of the hill we +had just descended. Some thirty heads could be seen peeping over the +rocks from among the boulders. The soldiers had evidently dismounted + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> + +and were spying our movements. I felt annoyed that they did not openly +follow us. I sighted my rifle to eight hundred yards, lay down flat, and +took aim at a figure I could see more plainly than the others.</p> + +<p>The doctor snatched the rifle from my shoulder.</p> + +<p>"You must not shoot," said he, with his usual calmness; "you might kill +somebody."</p> + +<p>"I only wish to teach those cowards a lesson."</p> + +<p>"That is all very well. But every man in Tibet is so cowardly that the +lesson would have to be constantly repeated," answered Wilson, with his +unfailing wisdom.</p> + +<p>I slung my rifle over my shoulder, and made up my mind to start some +other time on the great task I had then so nearly begun.</p> + +<p>When we had covered a mile or so of the plain our ghostly escort crossed +the pass, and came full gallop down the hill. I gave orders to my men to +halt. The soldiers also came to a dead stop. I watched them through the +telescope. They seemed to be holding a discussion. At last five men rode +full speed northward, probably to guard the track in that direction. +Three men remained where they were, and the remainder, as if seized by +panic, galloped frantically up the hill again and disappeared over the +summit.</p> + +<p>We resumed our march. The three horsemen followed a course one mile +south of ours, close against the foot of the hills. Lying low upon their +ponies' heads, they probably imagined that they were passing us +unperceived. Seeing that our bearings were for our old camp at Lama +Chokten, they left our line and rode ahead of us.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> + +When, in the evening, we reached Lama Chokten two shepherds came to +greet us. Then another appeared.</p> + +<p>"Our sheep are far away," said they. "We are hungry. We are poor. Can we +stop near your camp and pick up the food that you will throw away?"</p> + +<p>"Certainly," I replied. "But mind you do not pick up anything else."</p> + +<p>These simple people, thinking I should not know them, had left their +ponies at the Lama Chokten guard-house, and, disguised as shepherds, +were now trying to make friends with us, with the object of discovering +our movements. They were, of course, the three sepoys from Gyanema in +disguise.</p> + +<p>At each step in our retreat toward the Himahlyas my heart became +heavier. I was thinking out fresh plans, but to think out plans and to +carry them into effect were two different matters.</p> + +<p>How many times had my schemes been upset! How often had I been forced to +begin afresh when all seemed to point toward success! Now things had +changed altogether for the worse. My chances of success, notwithstanding +my constant struggle, were getting smaller and smaller every day. +Failure stared me in the face.</p> + +<p>At this camp the <i>daku</i> (brigand), who had changed his disguise several +times since coming in contact with the Tibetans, announced his immediate +departure. The doctor, with his usual kindness, had already begged him +to remain, but without avail. We well knew that in this region, infested +by robbers, this man was only leaving us to become a robber again. The +<i>daku</i> knew that I carried a large sum of money. During the last two + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> + +days his behavior had been more than strange. Had he come across some of +his mates, or had he heard from the soldiers that they were in the +neighborhood?</p> + +<p>The <i>daku</i> had a bundle of blankets strapped on his back in readiness to +leave me. My men, distressed at this new danger, came to report it to +me. I sent for him. Speaking bluntly, and keeping his eyes fixed on the +ground, he said:</p> + +<p>"I am going, sahib."</p> + +<p>"Where?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"I have friends near here, and I am going to them."</p> + +<p>"Very good, go," I replied, calmly taking up my rifle.</p> + +<p>His load was off his shoulders in less time than it takes to tell of it. +He resumed his work as usual. One or two other riotous coolies were +brought back to reason in a similar manner.</p> + +<p>I heard later that a band of brigands attacked a party of traders near +the frontier two days after this occurred.</p> + +<p>Another painful march back! We went a few miles and encamped on the bank +of a rapid stream, the Shirlangdu. From this point, with some +difficulty, it would be possible to climb over the mountain range during +the night, and attempt to elude the spies and watchmen by crossing the +mountains as far as Lake Mansarowar. I made up my mind to attempt this. +It seemed to add to the risk to have so large a following as thirty men, +so I decided that only four or five should accompany me. Going alone was +impossible, because of the difficulty of carrying sufficient food. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> + +Nevertheless, if the worst came to the worst, I resolved to attempt +going absolutely alone and rely on the chance of obtaining food from +Tibetans.</p> + +<p>All the loads were rearranged. Articles of clothing and comfort, +niceties in the way of food, and extras in the way of luxuries were left +behind to make room for my scientific instruments.</p> + +<p>Each pound in weight dedicated to science meant a pound less food to +take us to Lhassa. Everything that was not strictly necessary had to be +left behind.</p> + +<p>Two Tibetan spies came to camp in the afternoon in the disguise, as +usual, of beggars. They asked for food and insisted upon it. Their +manner was unbearably insulting. This was a little too much for us. +Bijesing, the Johari, and Rubso, the Christian cook, were the first to +enter into an open fight with them. They punched and kicked them, +driving them down a steep ravine leading to a river; then, assisted by +other men in camp, showered stones upon them.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Purified alcohol.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> See Chapter I.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>AN EXCITING NIGHT JOURNEY</h3> + + +<p>The hour fixed for my flight was 9 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Five men had been induced to +follow me by the offer of a handsome reward.</p> + +<p>At the appointed hour no one had put in an appearance. I went in search +of them. One man had purposely injured his feet and was disabled, +another professed to be dying, the others positively refused to +accompany me. All were shivering with fright and cold.</p> + +<p>"Kill us, sahib, if you like," they implored of me, "but we will not +follow you."</p> + +<p>At 3 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> all attempts to get even one man to carry a load had proved +futile. I had to abandon the idea of starting.</p> + +<p>My prospects became gloomier than ever. Another march back toward the +cold and dreary pass by which I had entered Tibet!</p> + +<p>"You are depressed, Mr. Landor," remarked the doctor.</p> + +<p>I admitted the fact. Every step backward was to me like a stab in the +heart. My only wish was to push on at any cost, and it was only on +account of my good friend, the doctor, that I had reluctantly refrained +from making my way onward by force. My blood was boiling. The cowardice + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> + +of my men made them so contemptible in my eyes that I could not bear +even to look at them.</p> + +<p>On this depressing march I walked alone ahead of my party. The rugged +way seemed short and easy. I found a suitable spot for our camp. Before +me and on every side stood high, snowy mountains. In front towered that +same Lumpiya Pass over which I had crossed into Tibet when my spirits +ran high and I had hopes of taking my entire expedition toward the +sacred city of Lhassa. I now hated the sight of those mountains.</p> + +<p>Whether it is that storms come when one is depressed, or whether one +gets depressed when storms approach, I am not prepared to say. On this +occasion, when I was indeed very depressed, and before we had time to +pitch our tents, the wind, which had been high all through the +afternoon, increased tenfold. The clouds became black and threatening, +and snow soon fell in feathery flakes.</p> + +<p>"What are you going to do?" inquired the doctor of me. "I think you had +better return to Garbyang, get fresh men, and make another start."</p> + +<p>"No, doctor. I will die rather than continue this backward march. I have +resolved to start alone to-night. I am convinced that I shall have +better success. I shall find my way over the range."</p> + +<p>"No, no, it is impossible, Mr. Landor!" cried the doctor, with tears in +his eyes. "That must mean death to any one attempting it."</p> + +<p>I told him I was quite determined to go.</p> + +<p>The poor doctor was dumfounded. He knew that it was quite useless to try +to dissuade me. I went into the tent to rearrange my baggage, making + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> + +the load I intended to carry on my back as light as possible. My +scientific instruments, money, and cartridges already made a good weight +to carry on my person.</p> + +<p>While I was making preparations for my journey Kachi Ram entered the +tent. He looked perplexed.</p> + +<p>"What are you doing, sir?" he inquired. "The doctor says you are going +to leave alone to-night, cross the mountain range, and go to Lhassa by +yourself."</p> + +<p>"Yes; that is true."</p> + +<p>"Oh, sir, the perils and dangers are too great! You cannot go."</p> + +<p>"I know; but I am going to try."</p> + +<p>"Oh, sir, then I will come with you."</p> + +<p>"No, Kachi. You will suffer too much. Go back to your father and mother, +now that you have the opportunity."</p> + +<p>"No, sir; where you go, I will go. Small men never suffer. If they do, +it does not matter. Only great men's sufferings are worth noticing. If +you suffer, I will suffer. I will come."</p> + +<p>Kachi's philosophy touched me. He meant what he said. I decided to take +him.</p> + +<p>This was a piece of luck. Kachi Ram had five bosom friends among the +young Shoka coolies. In the evenings in camp they often joined in weird +love-songs, in memory of the fair maids of their hearts whom they had +left behind, on the other side of the Himahlyas.</p> + +<p>Kachi hurried away in a state of great excitement. He was back in a few +minutes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + +<p>"How many coolies will you take, sir?"</p> + +<p>"None will come."</p> + +<p>"Oh, I will get them," said he, with assurance. "Will five do?"</p> + +<p>"Yes," I murmured, incredulously.</p> + +<p>My doubt sustained a shock when Kachi returned, buoyant, saying, in his +peculiar English:</p> + +<p>"Five Shokas come, sir. Then you, sir, I, sir, five coolies, sir, start +night-time. What clock?"</p> + +<p>"By Jove, Kachi," I could not help exclaiming, "you are a smart lad!"</p> + +<p>"'Smart,' sir?" inquired he, sharply, hearing a new word. He was most +anxious to learn English, and he had a mania for spelling. "'Smart!' +What is meaning? How spell?"</p> + +<p>"S-m-a-r-t. It means 'quick, intelligent.'"</p> + +<p>"Smart," he repeated, solemnly, as he wrote the newly acquired word into +a book which I had given him for the purpose. Kachi was undoubtedly, in +spite of small faults, a great character. He was a most intelligent, +sharp, well-meaning fellow. His never-failing good-humor and his earnest +desire to learn and to be useful were quite refreshing.</p> + +<p>My luck seemed to have turned. A few minutes later Chanden Sing, quite +unaware that any one had undertaken to accompany me, entered the tent, +and exclaimed, in a disgusted manner:</p> + +<p>"<i>Shoka crab, sahib! Hunya log bura crab. Hazur, hum, do admi jaldi +Lhassa giao.</i>" (The Shokas are bad. The Hunyas are very bad. Your honor +and I, we two alone, will go quickly by ourselves to Lhassa).</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + +<p>Here was another plucky and useful man anxious to come. He professed to +have no fear of death. How true the poor fellow's words were we will +learn later.</p> + +<p>Chanden Sing was a man of strong sporting tastes. His happiness was +complete when he could fire his rifle at something, though he was never +known to hit the mark. He had been severely scolded and punished only a +few days before for wasting several cartridges trying to shoot <i>kiang</i> +(wild horse) three miles distant. Ordinary work, however, such as doing +his own cooking or keeping my things tidy, was distasteful to him, and +was invariably passed on to others.</p> + +<p>Mansing, the leper, being unfortunately of the same caste as Chanden +Sing, became my servant's servant. The two Hindoos constantly quarrelled +and fought, but at heart they were the best of friends. The bearer, by +means of promises, mingled at intervals with blows, eventually succeeded +in inducing his protégé to join in our new expedition and face what +dangers we might find ahead.</p> + +<p>By eight o'clock in the evening I had collected all the men who had +promised to follow me. They comprised my bearer, Kachi, and six coolies.</p> + +<p>We named this camp "Devil's Camp," for diabolical indeed was the wind +that shook our tents, not to speak of the snow blown into our shelters +by the raging storm. During the night the wind grew in fury. Neither +wood, dung, nor lichens for fuel could be found. Our tents were pitched +at 16,900 feet above sea-level. To ascend to the summit of the range +would mean a further climb of two thousand feet. In such weather the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> + +difficulties of the ascent were increased tenfold, though for escaping +the notice of the Tibetan watchmen, who were spying our movements, we +could have no better chance than on a stormy night like this. I arranged +with the doctor that he was to take back to Garbyang all the baggage I +had discarded and the men who had declined to follow me. He must leave +all our tents pitched until the afternoon of the next day, in order to +let the Tibetans suppose that we were all sheltered under them. This +would give me time to make a long forced march before they could +discover that I had left my tent, and could get on my track. Hard as it +would be for our little party going forward, we would take no tent +except the small <i>tente d'abri</i>, which weighed about four pounds. We +should, in any case, be unable to pitch a tent for several days, for +fear of being detected by the Tibetans. As soon as they would discover +that we had left they would surely start in search of us. We should have +to march long distances at night, keeping mostly on the summit of the +range instead of proceeding, like ordinary travellers, along the +valleys. We must get what little sleep we could during the day, when we +could hide in some secluded spot. The thought of making a fire had to be +abandoned because, even in the remote chance of finding fuel at the +great altitudes where we were compelled to camp, every one knows that +the light of a fire and a column of smoke can be seen from great +distances, both in the day and at night. We had talked over all these +matters before we made a start, and, moreover, we were fully aware that + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> + +if the Tibetans could lay their hands upon us, we were too few to fight +them, and we had little chance of escaping with our lives. In fact, +taking things all round, we had come to the conclusion that our lives +were worth a mere song from the moment of our leaving Devil's Camp.</p> + +<p>With the full knowledge of what we were undertaking we may have been +foolish in starting at all, but lack of determination cannot fairly be +charged against us.</p> + +<p>The thoughtful doctor had brought with him from our last camp a few +lichens, with which he was now attempting to light a fire to cook me a +few <i>chapatis</i> (native flat breads of India). Alas! four hours' hard +work and four entire boxes of matches failed to produce the semblance of +a flame.</p> + +<p>At midnight I sent Chanden Sing and Kachi to collect the men. Two came +trembling into the tent, the others could not be roused. I went myself +and took them, one by one, to their loads. All were crying like +children. It was then that I discovered that in the haste and confusion +I had made one load too many. Here was a dilemma! Everything was ready +and propitious for our flight. A delay at this juncture was fatal. I +must have another man.</p> + +<p>The moans and groans in the coolies' tent, when I went in search of +another volunteer, were pitiful. You might have thought that they were +all going to die, and this was their last agony. All because of the +terror of being picked out to follow me.</p> + +<p>At last, after threats and promises, Bijesing, the Johari, was persuaded +to come. But the load was too heavy for him; he would only carry half. + +To save trouble, I agreed to carry the other half myself in addition to +my own load.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-03.jpg" width="600" height="380" alt="fig3" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">AT NIGHT I LED MY MEN UP THE MOUNTAIN IN A FIERCE +SNOW-STORM</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> + +We put out our hurricane-lantern, and at 2 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when the gale was +raging at its height, driving the grit and snow like spikes into our +faces, when the wind and cold seemed to penetrate with biting force to +the marrow of our bones, a handful of silent men, half frozen and +staggering, left the camp to face the blizzard. I ordered my men to keep +close together, and we made immediately for the mountain-side, taking +care to avoid the places where we supposed the Tibetan spies were +posted.</p> + +<p>We could not have selected a more suitable night for our escape. It was +so dark that we could not see more than a few inches in front of us. The +doctor, in sad silence, accompanied me for a couple of hundred yards. I +urged him to return to the tent. He stopped to grasp my hand. In a +broken voice the good man gave me his blessing, and bade me farewell.</p> + +<p>"The dangers of your journey," whispered Dr. Wilson, "are so great and +so numerous that God alone can guide you through. When I think of the +cold, hunger, and hardships you will have to endure I can but tremble +for you."</p> + +<p>"Good-bye, doctor," said I.</p> + +<p>"Good-bye," he repeated. "Good...." and his voice failed him. We parted.</p> + +<p>Two or three steps, and the darkness separated us. His touching words of +farewell rang sadly in my ears as I remembered the loyalty and +thoughtfulness of this good friend.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + +<p>The journey toward Lhassa had recommenced in grim earnest. In a short +while our ears, fingers, and toes were almost frozen, and the snow, +fast-driven by the gale, beat mercilessly against our faces. Our eyes +ached. We might have been blind for all we could see. Feeling our way +with our feet, we proceeded speechless and exhausted, rising slowly +higher and higher on the mountain-side. As we reached greater elevations +it grew colder, and the wind became more piercing. Every few minutes we +were compelled to halt and sit close together in order to warm ourselves +and get fresh breath. The air was so rarefied that we could barely +proceed under our heavy loads.</p> + +<p>We heard a whistle and faint sounds like distant voices. My men +collected round me, whispered "<i>Daku! daku!</i>" (Brigands! brigands!), and +then threw themselves flat on the snow. I loaded my rifle and went +ahead, trying in vain to perceive the enemy in the darkness. I screened +my ear with one hand. Hark!... hark!... Yet another shrill whistle!</p> + +<p>My Shokas were terrified. The sound seemed to come from directly in +front of us. We immediately altered our course, wending our way upward +slowly and steadily until we found ourselves at sunrise near the +mountain-top. It was still snowing hard. One final effort brought us to +the summit of the plateau.</p> + +<p>Here we felt comparatively safe. Thoroughly exhausted, we deposited our +burdens on the snow, and laid ourselves down close to one another, +piling on the top of us all the available blankets in order to keep +warm.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>HUNGRY FUGITIVES</h3> + + +<p>At 1 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we woke up, drenched to the skin, for the sun, which had come +out after the storm had abated, had thawed the thick coating of snow +over us. The elevation of this camp, according to my aneroids, was +18,000 feet. The wind, from the south-east, cut like a knife, and we +suffered from it, not only on this occasion, but every day during the +whole time we were in Tibet. This wind began to blow with great +fierceness and regularity at one o'clock every afternoon, and it was +only toward eight o'clock in the evening that it sometimes abated and +gradually ceased. Frequently, however, the wind, instead of dropping at +this time, increased in violence, blowing with terrible force during the +whole night.</p> + +<p>As we were making ready to start again, with limbs cramped and stiff, +the sky again became suddenly covered with heavy gray clouds, and fresh +snow fell. There was no possibility of making a fire, so we started +hungry and half frozen, following a course of 70° (b.m.). We waded up to +our waists through a freezingly cold stream, and, climbing steadily +higher and higher for a distance of six miles, we at last reached +another and loftier plateau to the north-east of the one where we had +camped in the morning. The elevation of this second plateau was 18,960 + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> + +feet. I was surprised to find four lakes of considerable size close to +one another on this high table-land. The sun, breaking for a moment +through the clouds, shone on the snow-covered tops of the surrounding +mountains, silvering the water of the lakes, and displaying before us a +wild and beautiful scene.</p> + +<p>We were too hungry and tired to care greatly for beautiful sights. All +we thought of was to find, as quick as possible, a suitable place where +we could rest our wearied bodies, either under the shelter of the higher +hills around the plateau or in one of the depressions in the ground. I +was anxious to push across the plateau and descend on the north-east +side to a lower altitude, where we might likely find fuel, but my men, +half starved and fagged, would go no farther. Their loads, now soaking +wet, were considerably heavier than under ordinary circumstances. We +were all panting on account of the thin air at that great height. No +sooner had we come to a partially sheltered spot between the larger lake +and the most eastern sheet of water of the group than my men collapsed +and said they were unable to proceed. I was concerned about them. They +refused to take cold food, believing it would cause their death. I could +not see how they could recover sufficient strength for the next day's +marching unless I kept them properly fed. By promising that they should +not die, I finally persuaded them to eat a little <i>satoo</i> (flour) and +<i>ghur</i> (sweet paste). Unluckily, no sooner had they eaten some of the +mixture, upon which they drank cold water, than nearly all were seized + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> + +with violent pains in their stomachs, of which they complained most of +the night.</p> + +<p>Experience had taught these mountaineers that eating cold food at great +elevations was more dangerous than eating no food at all. I regretted my +ill-timed, if kindly meant, advice. One is apt to judge other people by +one's self. Personally I never found any different effects from hot or +cold food, plentiful or not, at high elevations, on the sea-level, or at +intermediate altitudes.</p> + +<p>Soon after sunset the cold was intense. It was still snowing hard. Our +wet garments and blankets were beginning to freeze. I lighted a small +spirit-lamp, round which we all sat close together, making such a +shelter as we could with our frozen wraps. I even attempted to cook some +concentrated broth on the flame, but, owing to the high altitude, the +water took a long time to lose its chill, not to speak of the time it +took to boil. When it was just getting tepid the flame went out, and I +could not afford more spirits of wine to light the flame again. So the +cooking had to be abandoned, and as the night grew colder and colder, we +huddled together under our respective blankets in order to sleep. We had +made a protecting wall with our baggage. My men covered their heads with +their blankets, but I never could adopt their style of sleeping, as it +seemed to smother me. I always slept with my head uncovered, for not +only could I breathe more freely, but I wished to be on the alert should +we at any time be surprised by the Tibetans. My men moaned and groaned +and their teeth chattered during the night. I woke many times with a bad + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> + +pain in my ears, caused by frost-bite; my eyes, too, suffered as the +eyelashes became covered with icicles. Every time I tried to open my +eyelids there was an uncomfortable feeling, as if the eyelashes were +being torn off. In the intense cold the lids became fast frozen directly +they were closed.</p> + +<p>At last the sun rose. The night had seemed endless. When I tried to +raise the blanket in order to sit up, it seemed of an extraordinary +weight and stiffness. No wonder! It was frozen hard, was as rigid as +card-board, and covered over with a layer of snow one foot thick. The +thermometer during the night had gone down to 24°.</p> + +<p>I called my men. They were hard to wake. They were entirely buried under +the snow.</p> + +<p>"<i>Uta! uta! uta!</i>" (Get up! get up! get up!) I called, shaking one by +one, brushing off the snow from over their blankets.</p> + +<p>"<i>Baroff bahut</i>" (There is much snow), remarked one man, as he put his +nose outside his blanket and rubbed his eyes, smarting from the white +glare of the snow around us. "Salaam, sahib," he added, when, having +overcome his first surprise, he perceived me, and he raised his hand +gracefully up to his forehead.</p> + +<p>The others behaved in a similar manner. Kachi was, as usual, the last +one to wake.</p> + +<p>"Oh, Kachi," I shouted, "get up!"</p> + +<p>"<i>Oh, bahiyoh!</i>" (Oh, father!) yawned he, stretching his arms. Half +asleep, half awake, he looked round as if in a trance, muttering +incoherent words.</p> + +<p>"Good-morning, sir. Oh ... much snow. Oh ... look, sir, two <i>kiangs</i> +there! What is '<i>kiang</i>' in English?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Wild horse."</p> + +<p>"'Wild' you spell w-i-l-d?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>Here the note-book was produced from under his pillow, and the English +word duly written down.</p> + +<p>Odd creatures, these Shokas! The average European, half starved and +frozen, would hardly give much thought to exact spelling under such +trying circumstances.</p> + +<p>Poor Mansing, the leper, suffered terribly. He groaned pitiably through +the entire night. I had given him one of my wrappers, but his +circulation had been badly affected by the intense cold. His face was +gray and cadaverous, with deep lines engraved upon it from suffering. +His feet were so frozen that it took him some time before he could stand +upon them.</p> + +<p>Again the Shokas would eat nothing because snow was still falling. We +started toward the north-east. After a mile of flat we began a steep +descent over unpleasant, loose débris and sharp rocks. The progress was +rapid but painful. Looking at the country below through my telescope, I +saw shrubs and lichens far down in the valley to the north-east, and +also a tent and some sheep. This was unfortunate, for we had to alter +our course in order not to be seen. We again climbed up to the top of +the plateau and went around its summit unperceived, striking a more +easterly route. Toward sunset we began our descent from the latter +point. We crossed the river with no great difficulty. Having selected a +nicely sheltered depression in the ground, I pitched my little tent +there, by the side of a pond of melted snow. We all set out collecting + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> + +lichens and shrubs in order to make a fire, and each man carried into +camp several loads of fuel. In a moment we had three big fires blazing, +and not only were we able to cook an excellent dinner and drown our past +troubles in abundance of steaming tea, but we also managed to dry our +clothes and blankets. The relief we obtained from the warmth of these +fires was wonderful. In our comparative happiness we forgot the +hardships and sufferings we had so far encountered. With the exception +of a handful of <i>satoo</i>, this was the first solid meal we had eaten +during the last forty-eight hours. In those two days we had travelled +twenty miles, each of us carrying a weight averaging over sixty pounds.</p> + +<p>We were now at an elevation of 16,500 feet, which seemed quite low after +our colder and loftier camping-grounds. The reaction was pleasant, and, +as far as I was concerned, the outlook had changed from one of deepest +depression to a condition of comparative cheerfulness and contentment.</p> + +<p>In front of us, to the north-east, was a high mountain.—Farther toward +the east could be seen a narrow valley between two hill ranges, while a +river passed through a picturesque gorge in the direction of the +Mangshan Mountain.</p> + +<p>It was necessary for me to proceed along the valley to the east, for in +so doing we should save ourselves trouble, time, and exertion, though +perhaps we might meet Tibetans, especially bands of robbers. This part +of the Nari Khorsum province was said to be infested with brigands. We +had, therefore, to proceed cautiously, especially as my Shokas seemed + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> + +quite afraid. We had hardly gone half a mile over the rolling country, +and I had stopped behind my men to take observations with my prismatic +compass, when my carriers suddenly threw themselves flat on the ground +and began to retreat, crawling on hands and knees.</p> + +<p>"<i>Daku! daku!</i>" (Brigands! brigands!) they whispered, as I got near +them.</p> + +<p>It was too late. We had been detected, and a number of dacoits, armed +with matchlocks and swords, came rapidly toward us. It has always been +my experience that, in such cases, the worst thing to do is to run away, +for nothing encourages a man more to attack you than to show that you +are afraid. I therefore loaded my Mannlicher rifle. My bearer did +likewise with the Martini-Henry. I gave orders to the Shokas to squat +down by their respective loads and to remain still. My bearer and I +strolled toward the fast-approaching band, now less than a hundred yards +distant. I shouted to them to stop. Chanden Sing signalled to them to go +back. They took no notice of our warnings, and came on all the faster +toward us. Undoubtedly they thought that we were merely Shoka traders, +and expected to find an easy prey. They had conceived a good plan of +attack. When they prepared to rush us, on getting near enough, they +separated with the obvious intention of attacking us on all sides.</p> + +<p>"<i>Dushu! Dushu!</i>" (Go back! Go back!) I cried angrily at them, raising +my rifle to my shoulder and taking a steady aim at the leader. Chanden +Sing did the same with one of the other men. This seemed to have a good + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> + +effect upon them, for they immediately made a comical salaam and took to +their heels, Chanden Sing and I pursuing them for some distance in order +to get them well out of the way. We watched them from a mound close by, +and discovered that a short distance off these robbers had many +companions, as well as some three thousand sheep, presumably the results +of their last robbery. We motioned to them to get away from our course, +and finally, driving their sheep before them, they went off in the +direction I pointed out to them. When they were clear of us, and my +Shokas, who thought their last hour had come, had partly recovered from +their fright, we proceeded on our journey, entering the narrow valley +between the two hill ranges which I have already mentioned.</p> + +<p>That we were now in a much-frequented region could be plainly seen by +the numerous camping-grounds along the stream. Our success of the +morning had raised our spirits, and we marched merrily, keeping to the +left bank of the watercourse. A steep climb brought us to a plateau at +an altitude of 16,400 feet, from which we obtained a fine view of the +snow range, running east to west from the Mangshan Mountain to the Lippu +Pass, and beyond, to the north-east, the four lofty peaks of Nimo +Nangil, 25,360 feet, 22,200 feet, 22,850 feet, 22,670 feet high. This +plateau sloped gently, and was broken by many deep crevasses, conveying +the waterflow down into the Gakkon River.</p> + +<p>On the lower portion of this plateau, and then along the course of the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> + +river, a track ran from Gyanema to Taklakot <i>via</i> Kardam and Dogmar, +and another seldom-frequented track to Mangshan, south-south-west of +this place. The edge of the plateau was 15,800 feet above sea-level, and +the river 550 feet lower.</p> + +<p>This was for us a dangerous spot, as by this time the Tibetans must be +aware that I had escaped and that I was well into their country. I knew +that soldiers and spies must be guarding all the tracks and searching +for us. This thoroughfare, being more frequented than the others, was +all the more insecure. We had to display great caution in order to avoid +detection. In Tibet the atmosphere is so clear that moving objects can +plainly be seen very far away. I looked everywhere through my telescope, +but could see no one, so we went on. My men thought it safer to descend +into one of the numerous creeks, where we should be less exposed, but we +had hardly reached the border of one of these when we heard noises +rising from the valley below.</p> + +<p>Crawling on our stomachs, my bearer and I peeped over the edge of the +plateau. Some five hundred feet below was a Tibetan encampment, with a +number of yaks and ponies grazing. Unnoticed, I watched them for some +time. There were several soldiers, most probably posted there on the +lookout for me. With my spy-glass I recognized some of the Gyanema men. +We deemed it wise to select a spot where we could hide until night came. +After dark we descended to the river (15,250 feet), scrambled across it, +and made our way up a narrow gorge between high cliffs until we came to +a well-hidden spot, where we halted. Followed by my men, I climbed up + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> + +from rock to rock on the cliff to our left, and found a small natural +platform, sheltered by a huge bowlder projecting over it. This seemed a +safe enough spot for camping. We dared not put up a tent, and we took +the precaution of burying all our baggage in case of a surprise during +the night. Unhampered, we should at any moment be able to hide ourselves +away from our pursuers or run before them. We could always come back +afterward for our things if we had the chance.</p> + +<p>Now that everything seemed to be running smoothly, I made a painful +discovery. It was necessary for me to move rapidly. Imagine my surprise +when I found that we were out of provisions. Before leaving the larger +body of my expedition, I had given orders to my men to take food for ten +days. The doctor, who had been deputed to see to this, had assured me +that the loads contained quite enough to last us fully and above that +length of time. Now, for some unknown reason, we had only sufficient +food for one meagre meal. We only had a few grains of salt left.</p> + +<p>"What have you done with it?" I inquired, angrily, as it immediately +flashed across my mind that my carriers had been playing foul. I had +ordered each man to take one pound of salt.</p> + +<p>"Yes, sahib; but we forgot to take it," said the men, in a chorus.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-04.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="fig4" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">BEHIND OUR BULWARKS</p> + +<p>After the hardships and fatigue we had undergone, and the anxiety and +difficulty of carrying on my work of surveying, photography, sketching, +and writing, under conditions of unusual discomfort and risk, it was + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> + +indeed a hard blow to me to see my plans spoiled. We were still three +or four days' journey from Mansarowar, where I expected to obtain fresh +supplies. Again I had the choice of giving up and returning into India +or of being captured by the Tibetan soldiers, whom I had so far +successfully avoided. Though not usually affected by physical pain, I +sometimes suffer under mental stress. I felt ill and depressed. To add +bodily discomfort to my moral sufferings, I slipped, while jumping in +the semi-darkness from stone to stone across the Gakkon River, and fell +flat into about four feet of ice-cold water. The wind was high at the +time. The thermometer, after dark, went down to 26°. While I was sitting +in my wet clothes and talking our situation over, I became so cold and +exhausted that I felt I was about to collapse altogether. High fever set +in, and I became almost delirious. With my teeth chattering and my +temperature at its highest, all my troubles seemed greater than they +were. Failure seemed inevitable, my position hopeless. A plan suddenly +flashed across my mind. Four of my men should go disguised, two as +traders and two as beggars, into the Takla fort (locally called <i>Takla +khar</i> or <i>Taklakot</i>), and buy food from my enemies. We, in camp, would +remain hidden until they returned. I spoke to my followers, and, after +some natural reluctance, four Shokas undertook to perform the daring +duty. Discovery would mean to them the loss of their heads, in all +probability preceded by cruel tortures. Although these men eventually +betrayed me, I cannot help giving them credit for the pluck and fidelity +they showed on that particular occasion.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<p>During the night my men were particularly good to me. We did not sleep +for fear of being surprised by the Tibetan soldiers. We passed hour +after hour listening to Shoka stories of brigands and barbarous Tibetan +tortures. Little I knew then what was in store for me. Early in the +morning, when it grew light, we gathered a quantity of nettles, which +were plentiful near this camp, and having boiled them thoroughly, we +made of them a hearty if not quite an appetizing meal. They did not seem +unpalatable at the time, and had we possessed salt to add taste and +digestibility to our prickly diet, we might have felt quite happy. We +supplied the deficiency by mixing with them a double quantity of pepper. +At any rate, it was a relief to know that, while nettles lasted near our +camp, we should at least not die of starvation.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>AN ATTEMPT AT MUTINY</h3> + + +<p>The entire food-supply for my men was now reduced to four pounds of +flour, two pounds of rice, and two pounds of <i>satoo</i>. This we gave to +the four men who were to attempt to enter Taklakot. Their journey would +be long and fatiguing. For us there were plenty of nettles to fall back +upon. For myself I had a small quantity of tinned provisions, but I +intended to keep these for worse days which, I feared, were in store for +me.</p> + +<p>I carefully instructed the four Shokas how to enter the Tibetan fort one +by one in their disguises, and, in order to avoid suspicion, purchase +only in small quantities at a time the provisions we required. When a +sufficient amount was obtained to make one load, a man should +immediately start back for our camp. The others were to follow +separately for a few marches. At a given spot they would all four meet +again and return together to us. It was exciting work to prepare the +different disguises and arrange for everything. At last, after repeated +good-byes and words of encouragement, the four messengers left on their +perilous errand. All seemed quiet around us, so quiet that I unburied my +sextant and artificial horizon and was taking astronomical observations +when a herd of over a hundred yaks appeared on the pass north of our + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> + +camp, and slowly advanced toward us. Were we discovered? Were the +Tarjum's men coming, preceded by their animals? No time was to be lost. +Instruments and blankets were quickly cleared away and hidden. Crawling +up toward the animals, that had stopped on seeing us, we threw stones at +them in order to drive them down the next creek. We were just in time to +do this and return to our hiding-place when we saw, on the summit of the +pass and on the other side, a number of Tibetans following the yaks we +had driven away. The Tibetans passed only a couple of hundred yards +below us, evidently quite unaware of our presence. They were apparently +looking for our tracks, for they often stooped to examine the ground.</p> + +<p>Later in the afternoon I went to reconnoitre down the Gyanema road, in +the hope of watching, unseen, the Tibetans who passed on their way to +and from Taklakot. I saw no soldiers. A strong band of brigands, driving +before them thousands of sheep and yaks, was an interesting sight. The +bandits rode ponies, and obeyed their leader smartly when, in a hoarse +voice, and never ceasing to turn his prayer-wheel, he muttered orders. +They went briskly along, women and men riding their ponies astride. The +men had matchlocks and swords. Each pony carried, besides its rider, +bags of food slung behind the saddle. I watched the long procession from +behind rocks, and felt somewhat relieved when the last horsemen, who +passed only some twenty yards from me, rode away with the rest of the +caravan. I retraced my steps. Judging that this camp was not quite so + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> + +safe as I had at first imagined, I proceeded, with the aid of my men, +to make a rough intrenchment and to erect a wall round the platform, +sheltered by the projecting rock under which we lived. These bulwarks +hid us from the sight of passing Tibetans, and were serviceable as +fortifications in case of a night attack. All our things were buried a +short distance above our camp.</p> + +<p>Another long, dreary day had passed. We had used our last grain of salt. +Yet another day on nettles alone, and a third day and a fourth on the +same diet! How sick we got of nettles! The days seemed endless as, lying +on a peak above our camp, I remained hour after hour scanning with my +telescope the long plateau above the Gakkon River in search of our +expected messengers. Every time I saw men in the distance my heart +leaped, but on focussing them with my glass they turned out to be Jogpas +(bandits), or Dogpas (nomad tribes of smugglers), or travelling Humlis +or Jumlis, on their way to Gyanema and Gartok. As time went on and the +messengers did not put in an appearance, we began to entertain doubts as +to their safety. Would they betray us and never return? Or had they been +caught by the Jong Pen (the Master of the fort), and been imprisoned and +tortured?</p> + +<p>My Indian servant declined to eat any more nettles. He said it was +better not to eat at all than to eat the same thing constantly. He +declared he could fast for ten days, and would make up for the lack of +food by sleeping.</p> + +<p>My fortified abode was comfortable enough during the morning when the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> + +sun shone on it. Often when the rock had absorbed a good deal of heat, +it got so warm that we had to abandon it in the middle of the day, when +the thermometer registered as much as 120°, 122°, and even 124°. From 1 +<span class="smcap">p.m.</span> till ten o'clock at night a bitter wind blew from the south-east +and seemed to get right into our bones. So cold was this wind that the +temperature suddenly dropped down to 60°, and even lower, the moment the +sun disappeared behind the mountains, and continued to fall as low as +40°, 34°, and 32° during the night. One night we had a terrific gale and +a snow-storm. Such was the force of the wind that our wall was blown +down upon us as we slept under its shelter. The hours we had hoped to +rest had to be spent in repairing the damage done.</p> + +<p>On the following morning we were gathering nettles for our meal when we +heard the distant tinkling of fast-approaching horse-bells. We quickly +put out the fires, hid our things, and hastened behind our bulwarks. I +seized my rifle. Chanden Sing loaded the Martini. A Shoka, who was too +far off to reach our fortified abode in time, screened himself behind +some rocks. In the nick of time! Half a dozen soldiers, with matchlocks +to which were attached red flags, were cantering gayly up the hillside +only a few yards in front of us. They were undoubtedly searching for me. +They looked in every direction, but fortunately never turned their eyes +toward the castle walls that concealed us. Perhaps they were expecting +to see a large European tent in one of the valleys, and never dreamed + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> + +that we should be where we were. We covered them well with our rifles, +but we had no occasion to fire. They rode on. The sound of their +horse-bells grew fainter and fainter as they disappeared on the other +side of the pass. These horsemen were probably soldiers despatched by +the Tarjum to guard this track. They were now on their way back to their +master, satisfied that the Englishman was not to be found in that part +of the country.</p> + +<p>We named that spot "Terror Camp," for many and horrible were the +experiences that befell us there. Another weary day dragged slowly to +its close, and no sign of the messengers' return. Two men volunteered to +go into Kardam, a settlement some miles off. There they would try to +obtain food from the Tibetans. One of them had a friend at that place. +He would try to buy from him sufficient provisions to enable us to go on +a few days longer.</p> + +<p>Disguised as pilgrims, a disguise not difficult to assume, for their +clothes were falling to pieces owing to the rough marching we had done +of late, the men started and were away the whole day. When they returned +late at night they had an amusing tale to tell. Meeting a tribe of +Dogpas, they had boldly entered their camp, asking to purchase food. +Unfortunately the Dogpas had not sufficient for themselves, and could +not spare any. Incidentally my men were informed that <i>Lando Plenki</i> +(the name the Tibetans had given me) had taken a large army of men into +Tibet. Great excitement prevailed at Taklakot as well as at other +places, owing to the fact that the Englishman had the strange power of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> + +making himself invisible when the Tibetan soldiers were near him. He +had been heard of in many places in Tibet. Soldiers had been sent in all +directions to capture him. His tracks had several times been discovered +and followed. Yet he could never be found. Messengers had been hastily +sent out from Taklakot to Lhassa (sixteen days' journey), and to Gartok, +a great market in West Tibet, asking for soldiers to assist in the +capture of this strange invader, who was also said to have the power of +walking on water when crossing rivers and of flying over mountains when +he chose.</p> + +<p>When I recalled our struggles and sufferings in climbing over the +mountains and in crossing the streams on our journey, this account of +myself given by the Tibetans, and now repeated to me, struck me as +almost cruelly ironical. I was pleased that the Tibetans credited me +with such supernatural powers, for it would keep them from getting too +close to us.</p> + +<p>Three more long days were spent in painful anxiety regarding the fate of +our messengers. We feared that they had been captured and beheaded. We +had retired in despair to our fortress. It was 10 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> We were worn out +and ready to turn in. Our fire at the bottom of the creek was slowly +dying out. Nature around us was as still and silent as death. I suddenly +heard sounds of approaching steps. We listened, peeping through the +narrow openings in our wall. Were these Tibetans trying to surprise us +in our sleep or were they my men returning at last?</p> + +<p>We closely watched the gorge from which the sounds came—yes, faint + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> + +sounds of voices and of footsteps. At last four staggering figures +crawled cautiously into camp. We could not even then discern in the dim +light whether they were our messengers or not.</p> + +<p>"<i>Kuan hai?</i>" (Who is there?) I shouted.</p> + +<p>"Dola!" replied a voice. We gave them a joyful and hearty greeting, but +our happiness was not to last long. The men did not respond. They seemed +quite exhausted and terrified. I asked them to explain the cause of +their distress. Sobbing and embracing my feet, they at first declined to +tell me. Grave, indeed, was the news they brought.</p> + +<p>"Your days are numbered, sir!" at last cried Dola. "It is impossible for +you to get out of this country alive!... They will kill you! The Jong +Pen of Taklakot says he must have your head at any cost."</p> + +<p>"Do not look so far ahead, Dola," I replied, trying to console him. +"Tell me, first, how you reached Taklakot?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, sahib, we followed your plan. We suffered much on the road. The +marches were long and severe, and we had little food. We walked day and +night for two days, keeping away from the track, and hiding whenever we +saw any one. When we got near the Tibetan fort we saw, at the foot of +the hill, a few tents of Shokas from Nepal. None of the Shokas from +British Territory had been allowed to enter Tibet. A guard kept a sharp +lookout day and night in order to arrest anybody entering the country +from that side. Two fakirs, who were on a pilgrimage to the sacred +Mansarowar Lake, unaware of the danger, had crossed over the Lippu + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> + +Pass, and had proceeded down to Taklakot. They were immediately seized +and accused of being you, sir, in disguise. As the Tibetans were not +quite certain as to which of the two was the disguised Englishman, they +severely punished both, beating them almost to death. What became of +them we were unable to learn. The Tibetans afterward found out that you +had entered Tibet by another pass, and soldiers have been sent in every +direction to look for you.</p> + +<p>"No sooner did we appear at Taklakot," sobbed Dola, "than we were +pounced upon, knocked about, and arrested. They cross-examined us +closely. We professed to be Johari traders who had run short of food, +and had made for Taklakot to buy provisions. They beat us and treated us +badly, until your friend Zeniram, the head village man of Chongur (in +Nepal), came to our rescue and gave thirty rupees surety for us. We were +then allowed to remain in his tent, guarded by Tibetan soldiers. We +secretly purchased from him and packed the provisions. At night Zeniram +succeeded in decoying the soldiers who were guarding us into his tent, +and gave them <i>chökti</i> to drink until they became intoxicated. One by +one we four succeeded in escaping with our loads. For three nights we +marched steadily back, hiding during the day. Now we have returned to +you, sir."</p> + +<p>Dola paused for a minute or two.</p> + +<p>"Sir," he continued, "we were told in Taklakot that over a thousand +soldiers are searching for you everywhere. More are expected from Lhassa +and Sigatz,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> + +whither the Jong Pen has hastily sent messengers. They +fear you, sir, but they have orders from Lhassa to capture you at any +cost. They say that you can make yourself invisible when you wish. +Exorcisms are made and prayers offered daily, so that in future you may +be seen and arrested. Once caught, they will have no pity on you. You +will be beheaded. The Jong Pen is angry with you, owing to the defiant +messages you sent him from Garbyang. He has given orders to the soldiers +to bring you back dead or alive. Whoever brings your head will receive a +reward of five hundred rupees."</p> + +<p>"I had no idea my head was so valuable!" I could not help exclaiming. "I +shall take great care of it in the future."</p> + +<p>In Tibet five hundred rupees represent a large fortune. The man +possessing such a sum is a rich man.</p> + +<p>My men looked upon the whole affair as very serious.</p> + +<p>I gave a handsome reward to the four men who had brought the provisions, +but that did not prevent all my Shokas declaring that the danger was so +great that they must leave me there and then. Appeals are useless on +such occasions. I simply said that I should shoot any man attempting to +leave camp. Having now provisions for ten days, I informed my men that +we must at sunrise push on.</p> + +<p>Sulky and grumbling, the Shokas left the fortified corner and went below +to the creek. They said they preferred sleeping down there. I suspected +them. I sat up watching them and listening instead of sleeping. My +Indian servant rolled himself up in his blanket, and, as usual, was + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> + +soon asleep. The Shokas lighted a fire, sat around it, and with their +heads close together held an excited council in a half-whisper. In the +heated discussion some spoke louder than they imagined. The night being +particularly still, and the place well adapted for carrying sound, I +overheard words which put me on the alert. I soon convinced myself that +they were arranging to sell my head ... yes ... and to divide the money!</p> + +<p>The men got closer together, and spoke so faintly that I could hear no +more. Then they each in turn placed one hand above the other along a +stick, until the end of it was reached; each man then passed it to his +neighbor, who went through the same performance; a queer kind of drawing +lots, common among the Shokas. Eventually the man selected by fate drew +from a load a large Gourkha knife, and removed its scabbard. I well +remember the moment when the men, with their faces lighted by the small +flame of the flickering fire, all looked up toward my aerie. Seen from +the fissure in the wall behind which I knelt, their countenances seemed +distorted and ghastly. They listened to hear if we were asleep. Then all +but one rolled themselves in their blankets, completely covering their +heads and bodies. The one figure I could now see sat up by the fire for +some time, as if thinking hard. Every now and then he turned his head up +toward my fortress and listened. At last he got up and, with his feet, +smothered the fire. It was a lovely night, and as soon as the reddish +flame was put out the stars shone like diamonds in the deep-blue sky.</p> + +<p>I rested the barrel of my rifle on the wall, my eyes being fixed on the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> + +black figure down below. Stooping low, the traitor crawled step by step +the few yards up to my abode, pausing to listen each time a rolling +stone caused a noise. He was now only two or three yards away. He seemed +to hesitate. Drawing back, and ready to spring up, I kept my eyes fixed +on the top of the wall. I waited some time, but the man was in no hurry. +I grew impatient.</p> + +<p>I slowly got up, rifle in hand, and as I raised my head above the wall I +found myself face to face with the man on the other side. I lost no time +in placing the muzzle of my Mannlicher rifle close to his face. The +surprised Shoka, dropping his knife, went down on his knees and begged +my pardon. He received a good pounding with the butt of my rifle. I felt +I had better ascertain that no further disturbance took place during the +night. Two men attempted to crawl out of camp and desert, but I +discovered them and stopped them in time. At last the sun rose, and the +night ended with all its troubles and anxieties.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Usually called "Shigatze" on English maps.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>AMONG ENEMIES AND ROBBERS</h3> + + +<p>On my last scouting journey up the hill above Terror Camp I had seen, by +the aid of my telescope, the encampment of a guard of Tibetans about +three miles north of us.</p> + +<p>In the morning we dug up the main part of the baggage we had buried, and +made ready to start. One of my men, named Nattoo, came forward and +professed to be able to guide me directly to the Mansarowar Lake. He +seemed anxious to undertake this task, saying that there would be no +chance of being seen by Tibetans by the route he knew, and therefore we +might march during the daytime.</p> + +<p>Led by this man, we started up the creek. I was astonished at the +willingness with which the Shokas agreed to proceed. In a short time I +felt convinced that Nattoo was deliberately taking us to the spot I most +wished to avoid. On my remonstrating and stopping farther progress in +that direction, the Shokas mutinied, and, laying down their loads, tried +to escape. Chanden Sing quickly barred their way ahead in the narrow +creek. I prevented their escape from the opposite side. They had to +surrender. They were all severely punished there and then. On being +closely cross-examined, they confessed that they had made a plot to + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> + +hand me over to the Tibetan guard, in order to escape themselves the +horrors of torture by the Tibetans. This last act of treachery, coming +after what had happened during the night, and from the very men to whom +I had been so kind, was too much for me. I used a stick, which Chanden +Sing handed me, freely on their backs and legs—Nattoo receiving the +largest share of blows, because he was undoubtedly the leader of the +conspiracy.</p> + +<p>On climbing to a high point of vantage I made another discovery. Besides +the guard we had to the north of us, both east and west our way was +barred by Tibetan soldiers. It was not possible to get on during the day +without being seen. I absolutely refused to go back south. I held a +council with my men, now apparently resigned to their fate. They agreed +to accompany me as far as the Maium Pass (on the road to Lhassa), which +we reckoned we could reach in fifteen to eighteen marches. They further +agreed to endeavor to obtain yaks and food for me, and I was then to +dismiss them.</p> + +<p>From the summit of the hill I had climbed I had taken careful bearings. +At night, aided by my luminous compass, I led my men high up along the +mountain range at an average elevation of 1500 feet above the +Gyanema-Taklakot track.</p> + +<p>The night was dark and stormy. We encountered much difficulty on our +journey forward, owing to the slippery ground. Where it was not slippery +we trod over troublesome loose stones. We could not see far ahead. +Though we well knew from the angle of the slope that we were travelling + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> + +along a precipice, we could not distinguish anything under us except a +very bright streak far, far down below—undoubtedly the river.</p> + +<p>I could not explain the luminosity of the water. It did not seem to come +from reflection of the light of stars or the moon, because the sky was +cloudy at the time. The river had a curious greenish tint, closely +resembling the light produced by an electric discharge. In the more +dangerous spots we had to proceed for long distances on all-fours. Even +then we felt hardly safe, for we could hear the sound of the stones +rolling down the steep slope, and by the length of time they took to +reach the bottom we knew that we were proceeding over a precipice of +extraordinary height. So difficult and painful was the walking that it +took us about four hours to go some three miles. We felt so exhausted +that from time to time we had to lie down and rest, shivering with cold. +Our hands were bleeding from cuts caused by the sharp stones. I mustered +my men. Poor Mansing, the leper, was missing. When we last spoke to him +he was moaning under his load, and he constantly stumbled and fell. Two +men were sent in search, but after an hour's absence they failed to +discover him. Faithful Chanden Sing and the Shoka Dola were then +despatched to his rescue. After another hour of anxiety the two +returned, bringing the unfortunate coolie with them. The poor fellow's +hands and feet were badly cut. The pain in the latter was so great that +he could no more stand erect. He had fallen in a faint from exhaustion, +and it was by a mere chance that in the darkness Chanden Sing stumbled + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> + +against his senseless body. Apart from his life, his loss would have +been a serious matter to me, as he carried my bedding and photographic +cameras.</p> + +<p>Sleet and rain commenced to fall. The cold was intense. We continued to +climb steadily, Chanden Sing and I helping the poor leper along. The +march soon became less difficult, as we were following a depression +formed by the action of melting snows. We were sheltered from the +piercing wind, which had been driving the sleet hard into our faces. We +slowly covered some three more miles. During that time the storm passed +away, leaving the atmosphere beautifully clear. When we reached the pass +(over 17,000 feet high) a curious optical phenomenon astonished us all. +The larger stars and planets, of a dazzling brilliancy, such as I had +never in my life seen before, seemed to swing to and fro in the sky with +rapid and sudden jerks, describing short arcs of a circle, and returning +each time to their normal position. The effect was so weird that I at +first believed something had gone wrong with my vision, but my +companions saw the same phenomenon. More curious still was the illusion +of the stars nearer the horizon disappearing and reappearing behind the +mountain range. The oscillations of the heavenly bodies nearer the +horizon were less rapid, but the angle of the arc described measured +almost double that traced by the stars directly above our heads. The +oscillations of the latter were, especially at certain moments, so rapid +that the star itself, instead of having its normal appearance, formed a +continuous streak of light on the deep-blue background of the sky. This + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> + +strange optical illusion, which began soon after the storm had cleared +away, lasted some time. Gradually the oscillations became less violent, +and stars and planets eventually resumed their normal steadiness, +shining with great brilliancy and beauty.</p> + +<p>We crossed the pass, and halted directly on the northern side of it. My +followers suffered intense pain. Their feet were in a terrible +condition. The minimum temperature was 12° Fahrenheit. We did not pitch +our tent, and when we went to sleep there was only a blanket between us +and heaven. When we woke in the morning we found the thermometer had +risen to 30°. We were enveloped in thick mist, which chilled us to the +marrow of our bones. I had icicles hanging from my mustache, eyelashes, +and hair. My cheeks and nose were covered with a thin layer of ice, +caused by the breath settling and congealing on my face.</p> + +<p>During our night marches up and down mountain ranges of great height we +naturally had many adventures and escapes. In constant storms of grit +and snow we crossed range after range, travelling at night and hiding +during the day, always camping at great elevations. We underwent +considerable privations. I steered my men toward the Rakastal, or +Devil's Lake. One day, having risen to 17,550 feet, we obtained a +magnificent view of the two great sheets of water, the Lafan-cho and +Mafan-cho, more commonly known to non-Tibetans under the names of +Rakastal and Mansarowar lakes.</p> + +<p>To the north of the lakes stood the magnificent Tize, the sacred Kelas +Mountain, overtopping by some 2000 feet all the other snowy peaks of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> + +the Gangri chain. This chain extended roughly from north-west to +south-east. From this spot we could see more distinctly than from Lama +Chokten the band round the base of the mountain, which, according to +legend, was formed by the rope of the Rakas (devil) trying to tear down +this throne of Siva.</p> + +<p>Tize, the great sacred peak, was of fascinating interest, owing +to its peculiar shape. It resembled the giant roof of a temple. +Perhaps it lacked the gracefulness of sweeping curves. Tize was +angular—uncomfortably angular. Its height, the vivid color of its +base, and the masses of snow that covered its slopes certainly gave +it a peculiar attraction. Otherwise it struck me as being intensely +unpicturesque—at least from the point from which I saw it and from +which the entire face of it was visible. When clouds toned down and +modified its shape, Tize appeared at its best from a painter's point of +view. Under these conditions, I have thought it beautiful, especially at +sunrise, with one side tinted red and yellow, and its exposed rocky mass +standing majestic against a background of shiny gold. With my telescope +I could plainly distinguish, especially on the east side, the defile +along which the worshippers make the circuit at the base of the +mountain. I was told that some pilgrims actually march round it on the +snowy ledge directly over the base, just above the darker band of rock +described before. On the south-west side could be seen, on the top of a +lower peak, a gigantic <i>obo</i> (a pyramid of stone).</p> + +<p>The journey round Tize usually takes three days. Some accomplish it in +two days, and under favorable circumstances it has even been done in + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> + +one day. It is usual for the pilgrims to say certain prayers and make +sacrifices as they proceed. The more fanatical perform the journey +serpentwise, lying flat on the ground at each step. Others do it on +their hands and knees, and others walking backward.</p> + +<p>Tize, or Kelas, has an elevation of 21,830 feet, and Nandiphu, west of +it, 19,440 feet. North-west of the sacred mountain are visible other +summits 20,460 feet, 19,970 feet, and 20,280 feet high.</p> + +<p>While I was sketching this panorama a snow leopard bounded gracefully +before us. Animal life seemed to abound. I had a shot or two at a <i>thar</i> +(mountain goat), and we saw any number of <i>kiang</i> (wild horse). We found +rhubarb, which seemed to be thriving at so high an elevation as 17,000 +feet, and quantities of yellow flowers in the same locality and at the +same elevation. At 19,000 feet I netted two couples of small +white-and-black butterflies. They seemed to have great difficulty in +flying.</p> + +<p>On nearing the lakes the atmosphere seemed saturated with moisture. No +sooner had the sun gone down than there was a heavy dew, which soaked +our blankets and clothes. We were at 16,550 feet in a narrow, marshy +creek in which we had descended precipitously from the last mountain +range. From the summit of the range we had seen many columns of smoke +rising from the neighborhood of the Devil's Lake. We judged that we must +again proceed with great caution.</p> + +<p>We cooked our food. In the middle of the night, for greater safety, we + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> + +shifted our camp in a north-easterly direction on the summit of the +plateau. We continued our journey in the morning high above the +magnificent blue sheet of the Devil's Lake with its pretty islands.</p> + +<p>"Sir, do you see that island?" exclaimed Nattoo, pointing at a barren +rock in the lake. "On it," he continued, "lives a hermit Lama, a saintly +man. He has been there alone for many years, and he is held in great +veneration by the Tibetans. He exists almost entirely on fish and +occasional swan's eggs. Only in winter, when the lake is frozen, is +communication established with the shore, and supplies of <i>tsamba</i> are +brought to him. There are no boats on the Devil's Lake, nor any way of +constructing rafts, owing to the absence of wood. The hermit sleeps in a +cave, but generally comes out in the open to pray to Buddha."</p> + +<p>During the following night, when everything was still, a breeze blowing +from the north conveyed to us, faint and indistinct, the broken howls of +the hermit.</p> + +<p>"What is that?" I asked of the Shokas.</p> + +<p>"It is the hermit speaking to God. Every night he climbs to the summit +of the rock, and from there addresses his prayers to Buddha the Great."</p> + +<p>"How is he clothed?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"In skins."</p> + +<p>Late in the afternoon we had an amusing incident. We came to a creek in +which were a number of men and women, hundreds of yaks and sheep, and +some thirty ponies.</p> + +<p>The Shokas became alarmed, and immediately pronounced the folks to be + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> + +brigands. I maintained that they were not. Kachi had a theory that the +only way to tell brigands from honest beings was to hear them talk. The +brigands, he declared, usually shouted at the top of their voices when +conversing, and used language far from select, while well-to-do Tibetans +spoke gently and with refinement. I thought the only thing to do was to +go and address the people, when by the tone of voice we should find out +who and what they were. This, however, did not suit my Shokas. We were +placed in a rather curious position. In order to proceed on our journey +we must either pass through the Tibetan encampment or we must march +southward round a mountain, which would involve considerable trouble, +fatigue, and waste of time. We waited till night came, watching, unseen, +the Tibetans below us. As is customary with them, at sundown they +retired to their tents. Leaving my men behind, I crawled into their camp +during the night and peeped into one of the tents. The men were +squatting on the ground, round a fire in the centre, upon which steamed +two vessels with stewing tea. One old man had strongly marked Mongolian +features, accentuated by the heavy shadows which were cast by the light +of the fire on his angular cheek-bones and prominent and wrinkled brow. +He was busily revolving his prayer-wheel from left to right, repeating, +in a mechanical way, the usual <i>Omne mani padme hun</i>, words which come +from the Sanscrit, and refer to the reincarnation of Buddha from a lotus +flower, meaning literally, "O God, the gem emerging from a lotus +flower." Two or three other men whose faces I could not well see, as + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> + +they were stooping low, were counting money and examining several +articles of Indian manufacture which undoubtedly had been seized from +Shokas.</p> + +<p>Having discovered the best way to pass without being seen, I went back +to my men, and led them, in the middle of the night, through the Tibetan +camp. We proceeded for a mile or so beyond the encampment. Having +selected a well-sheltered spot where we thought we could rest without +fear of discovery, we laid down our loads and tried to get a few hours' +sleep. At sunrise we were startled on finding our camp surrounded by a +band of robbers. Our friends of the previous night had followed our +tracks, and, mistaking us for Shoka traders, had now come for a little +pleasant robbery. On drawing near they were given a somewhat warm +reception. Their instant retreat was more speedy than dignified.</p> + +<p>We wended our way along a narrow valley toward the shore of the Devil's +Lake, halting to cook our food about half a mile from the water's edge. +At this point I took observations for longitude, also the correct +elevation with boiling-point thermometers. Water boiled at 185° with the +temperature of the atmosphere at 64° Fahrenheit.</p> + +<p>I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying flat in the sun, some +distance away from my men, when I thought I saw something move. Jumping +up, I caught sight of a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only +a few yards away from me, with the object, no doubt, of seizing my +rifle. He was not quick enough. All he got was a good pounding with the +butt of my Mannlicher. I recognized him; he was one of the brigands we + + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> + +had seen in the morning. They had followed and spied us all along. +Having got over his first surprise and begged for mercy, the bandit, +with an amusing air of assumed innocence, requested us to go and spend +the night in his tent with him and his friends. They would treat us +right royally, he said. Being well acquainted with the hospitality of +robbers, we declined the invitation. The brigand went away somewhat +shaken and disappointed. We continued our journey along the edge of the +Devil's Lake. Hundreds of hares sprang all around us. So numerous were +they that I killed several with my rifle, using bullet cartridges. There +were signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of the lake +must have been much higher than it is at present.</p> + +<p>Marching during the day, we encountered many Tibetans, some of whom were +Dogpas, others Jogpas, both nomad bands of robbers. When they saw us +approaching they generally fled, driving their sheep and yaks in front +of them. We came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty. Their faces were +smeared with black ointment, as a protection for the skin and to prevent +its cracking in the high wind. They were dressed in long sheepskin +garments, worn out and filthy. The shaggy hair was so unwashed that it +emitted a sickening odor. I ordered them not to come too near us.</p> + +<p>Later four Tibetans, who attempted to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of +his hand, received from him a battering they were not likely to forget. +After this we were left alone for the remainder of the day. In the +evening Chanden Sing fired at a black wolf which came close to camp. I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> + +discovered, about one hundred feet above the lake-level, imbedded in the +mountain-side, a stratum of gigantic fossils, which, owing to their size +and weight, I was unable to dig out and carry away.</p> + +<p>Feeling almost certain that we were being spied upon all the time by the +numerous Jogpas we had met, and knowing their favorite habit of +attacking strangers at night while asleep, we generally resorted to a +simple ruse. Before sunset we pretended to encamp, and having lighted a +fire to let them think that we had halted for the night, after dark +escaped, leaving the fire burning. Walking and stumbling for several +miles, we eventually found a spot high on the hillside, where we +considered ourselves safe. Snow fell heavily during the night, and as +usual we woke up with icicles hanging from our mustaches, eyelashes, and +hair. Otherwise we really felt happy and well.</p> + +<p>It was my good-fortune to make quite sure, from many points, that the +ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar lakes was continuous, and no +visible communication between the two lakes existed. With the exception +of a small depression about half-way across, the ridge has an average +height of 1000 feet all along—a fact which ought in itself to dispose +of the theory held by some that the two lakes are connected by a wide +channel intersecting this ridge. I ascertained from the natives that +there was no visible communication between the lakes, though the +depression in the ridge makes it probable that at a very remote period +some connection existed. The lowest point in this depression in the +centre of the ridge is over three hundred feet above the level of the +lakes.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>IN STRANGE COMPANY</h3> + + +<p>Just before leaving the shores of the Rakastal I had a great piece of +luck. We had been detected by another band of brigands, who were trying +to overtake us. I had watched them with my telescope as they rode toward +us. They were driving some twenty yaks in front of them at a fast pace. +The brigands rode ponies. We were about a mile and a half ahead of them, +and close to the edge of the Devil's Lake. We saw them coming down the +hillside at a breakneck speed straight in our direction. It was evident +that they were after us. My men became terror-stricken when I gave order +to halt.</p> + +<p>The band of highwaymen approached, leaving the yaks in charge of two +women. When they galloped in a line toward us, my men, with the +exception of Chanden Sing and Mansing, were paralyzed with fright.</p> + +<p>The brigands were now one hundred yards off. With loaded rifle in one +hand and my camera in the other, I advanced to meet them, knowing that, +with their old-fashioned matchlocks, it took them a considerable time to +light the fusee and fire a shot. Moreover, it was almost an +impossibility for them to fire on horseback, their weapons being heavy +and cumbersome.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-05.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="fig5" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">THE BANDITS LAID DOWN THEIR ARMS</p> + +<p>I focussed them in my twin-lens photographic apparatus, and waited till + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> + +I had them well in the field. I snapped the picture when they were only +thirty yards away, vaulting over their ponies in the act of dismounting. +The camera, having done its work, was quickly deposited on the ground, +and the rifle shouldered. I shouted to them to put down their weapons. +To give force to my request I aimed at them with my Mannlicher.</p> + +<p>A meeker lot of brigands I do not believe could be found anywhere. +People of that kind were only brave when it was easy for them to be +courageous. The matchlocks were quickly unslung from their shoulders and +flung to the ground. Their jewelled swords were laid by the side of the +firearms. The bandits went down on their knees, and taking off their +caps with both hands, put out their tongues in sign of salute and +submission. I could not help taking another photograph of them in that +comical attitude.</p> + +<p>Chanden Sing, who had been left to look after the baggage, had placed +Mansing in charge, and was now by my side with the Martini-Henry rifle, +when one of the women, riding astride, arrived on the scene. She was +evidently furious at the cowardice of her men. I liked her for that. She +jumped off her steed, ejaculated words at the top of her voice, shaking +her fists at the men still kneeling before me, and at last, foaming with +rage, spat on them. While thus haranguing the band of highwaymen, she +had an annoying way of pointing at my baggage; but her speech seemed to +have little effect on the submissive crowd.</p> + +<p>I went up to her, patted her on the back, and offered her a rupee if + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> + +she would hold her tongue. She grabbed the coin, and rubbed it on her +skin coat to make the silver shine. She instantly became calm, and +rubbing the coin until it was quite bright, she raised her fiery eyes, +staring into mine, and put out her tongue to express her thanks.</p> + +<p>Kachi and Dola, who knew Tibetan well, were now summoned to address the +bandits for me; but these two Shokas were in such terror that they could +hardly walk, much less speak. After a while, however, seeing how well I +had these terrible people under control, they were able to translate.</p> + +<p>"I want them to sell me some yaks and some ponies," I said. "I will pay +handsomely for them."</p> + +<p>"They say they cannot. The Tarjum will cut their heads off if he comes +to know it. They will only sell one or two yaks."</p> + +<p>"Very good. How much do they want?"</p> + +<p>"Two hundred silver rupees. But," added Dola, "sir, do not give them +more than forty. That is a great deal more than they are worth. A good +yak costs from ten to sixteen rupees."</p> + +<p>After some three or four hours' bargaining, during which time the +bandits descended gradually from two hundred rupees to forty, and I rose +from twenty to that figure, we at last agreed, amid the greatest +excitement on both sides, that their two best yaks should be my +property. Becoming quite friendly, they also sold me pack-saddles and +sundry curiosities. They gave me tea and <i>tsamba</i>. The fiery woman had +still a peculiar way of keeping her eyes fixed on my baggage. Her + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> + +longing for my property seemed to increase when she saw me pay for the +yaks and suspected that I must have a good deal of money. If she kept +one eye on my goods, I kept both there. I took good care that my rifle +was never out of my hand, and that no one ever came too near me from +behind.</p> + +<p>We counted the money down, some fifty rupees, including all purchases. +Each coin was passed round and sounded by each of our sellers, and when +the entire sum was handed over the coins were passed back and recounted, +so that there should be no mistake. Time in Tibet is not money, and my +readers must not be surprised when I tell them that counting, +recounting, and sounding the small amount took two more hours. The two +yaks were eventually handed over to us—one, a huge, long-haired black +animal, restless and powerful; the other equally black, strong, and +hairy, but somewhat gentler.</p> + +<p>To catch them, separate them from the herd, pass ropes through their +respective nostrils, and tie pack-saddles on their backs, were all +operations we as novices had to master. It was hard work indeed, but we +struggled until we succeeded.</p> + +<p>When we parted, the brigands and I were good friends. The bandits +behaved admirably. I came to the conclusion that, in Tibet, I would at +any time rather deal with a bandit than with an official.</p> + +<p>In a way I was sorry when my interview with the Jogpas came to an end, +for, although they were undoubtedly brigands, they were certainly + + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> + +interesting. Their original and curious dress, their manner, their +conversation, their unusual but eminently sensible mode of eating, and +their jovial freedom of demeanor were really quite refreshing. Their +dress was quite representative of Tibet. The men wore a great variety of +coats and hats, probably due to the facility with which they obtained +them. No two individuals were dressed alike, though certain leading +features of dress were to be observed in each case. One man wore a gaudy +coat trimmed with leopard skin. Another had a long, gray woollen robe +like a dressing-gown, taken up by a waist-band. A third was garbed in a +loose raiment of sheepskin, with the wool inside. Yet a fourth was +arrayed in a dark-red tunic fastened by a belt of leather with silver +ornamentations inlaid in wrought-iron. Suspended to the belt were a +needle-case, tinder-pouch and steel, a bullet-pouch and bag, and a +pretty dagger with a sheath of ebony, steel, and silver filigree. In +their belts the Jogpas, in common with the majority of Tibetan men, wore +a sword in front. Whether the coat was long or short, it was invariably +loose and made to bulge at the waist, in order that it might contain a +number of eating and drinking bowls (<i>pu-kus</i>), snuff-box, sundry bags +of money, <i>tsamba</i>, and bricks of tea. It was owing to this custom that +most Tibetan men, when seen at first, gave the impression of being very +stout, whereas, as a matter of fact, they were somewhat lightly built. +In the daytime the Tibetans left one arm and part of the chest bare, +letting one sleeve hang. The reason for this practice was because in +Tibet the days were hot and the nights cold, the drop in the thermometer + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> + +at sunset in south-west Tibet being at times as much as 80°, and even +100°. As the Tibetans always slept in their clothes, the garments that +protected their bodies from being frozen at night were found too heavy +and warm in the hot sun, and, therefore, that simple expedient was +adopted. When sitting down both arms were drawn from the sleeves, and +the chest and back were left bare; but when standing, one arm, usually +the left, was slipped in, to prevent the coat and its heavy contents +falling off.</p> + +<p>That the Jogpas had good digestions was evident from the way they ate, +when, having concluded the sale of the yaks, they squatted down to a +hearty meal of <i>tsamba</i>, <i>chura</i> (cheese), and tea. They took from their +coats their wooden and metal <i>pu-kus</i> (bowls), and quickly filled them +with <i>tsamba</i>, pouring over it steaming tea mixed, as usual, with butter +and salt in a churn. With their dirty fingers they stirred the mixture +in the bowl until a paste was formed, which they rolled into a ball and +ate. The same operation was repeated over and over again. Each time, +before refilling, the bowl was licked clean by rotating the <i>pu-ku</i> +round the tongue. Feeling the heat of the sun after their meal, both men +and women removed some of their garments, showing ornaments of gold, +silver, and copper encircling their necks.</p> + +<p>The women of the bandits, though far from beautiful, possessed a certain +charm, due entirely to their wildness. Unlike most Tibetan women, they +had good teeth. Their complexion was not specially dark. Only the black +ointment, with which their cheeks, noses, and foreheads were smeared, +made them appear darker than they really were, and was decidedly + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> + +unbecoming. They had regular features. Their eyes and mouths were full +of expression. Twisted into numberless little plaits, the hair was +brought up and fastened over the head. A red turban kept the plaits in +position, and was raised so as to show another row of little plaits +decorating the forehead. The end of each of these plaits was joined to +its immediate neighbor. These ladies wore large ear-rings of gold inlaid +with malachite.</p> + +<p>The children were talkative, and acted like grown-up people. They wore +swords in their belts, even at the early age of eight or ten years.</p> + +<p>In a basket that had been carried on one of the yaks I saw an infant a +few months old. His superstitious mother snatched the child away in +horror when I caressed him, and washed and rubbed the poor little +fellow's face until the skin was sore, declaring that children died who +were touched by strangers.</p> + +<p>The men were just as superstitious. When I wished to buy some rice from +them, they would not let me handle it till it had become my property. +They objected each time that I stretched out my arm to touch the bag of +rice, and eventually showed me a handful of rice at a distance, to let +me judge of its quality. I first bought only the handful. Having assured +myself that it was good, I then purchased the remainder.</p> + +<p>We had marched on the same afternoon about half a mile in the direction +of Mansarowar, when we were overtaken by one of the brigands, whom we +had left a short time before. He rode toward us, apparently in great + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> + +excitement. Having dismounted, he drew his sword and began chasing one +of my yaks. This seemed so strange a proceeding that we were at a loss +to understand his intentions. He screamed to us that he meant no harm, +so we let him go on. He eventually overtook one yak, and, after a +struggle with the unfortunate animal, he flung his arms round the +beast's neck and rested his head between its horns. I was getting rather +anxious, fearing that this effusion was only a dodge to cut the beast's +throat. Much to my astonishment, I saw that the young Jogpa had seized a +tuft of the yak's hair with his teeth and was trying to tear it off, +while the unfortunate quadruped was making desperate efforts to shake +off its persecutor. The hair eventually gave way, and with a tuft of it +hanging from his tightly closed lips, the Jogpa let go the animal's +head, and, brandishing his sword, next made a dash for its tail.</p> + +<p>I thought it was time to interfere. I seized the man by his pigtail, +while he in his turn clung to the tail of the frightened yak, which, +bolting, dragged both of us after it at an unpleasant pace.</p> + +<p>The Jogpa, in our mad flight, cut off a long lock of the yak's silky +hair. Having secured this, he appeared to be quite satisfied, let go, +and sheathed his sword. He quickly concealed the stolen locks in his +coat, and then made low bows to us, sticking out his tongue, and +declaring that unless such a precaution were taken when parting with a +beast, bad luck was sure to come to you. This closed the incident. The +Jogpa rode away perfectly happy, and we continued our march across the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> + +stony plain until we reached the ridge which extended across it, and in +its continuation divided the two lakes. We climbed up to the top, rising +to 16,450 feet. In order to make certain that the ridge really extended +right across between the two lakes, I made an excursion about half way +along its length, and found that the northern part seemed somewhat lower +than the southern; but in the portion between the two sheets of water, +and barring the central depression which I have already mentioned, it +seemed everywhere several hundred feet above the level of the lakes. +This expedition incurred some loss of time, and when night came we were +still on the ridge.</p> + +<p>From our camping-ground we saw fifteen black tents on the hillside. To +the east, on the lake shore, there was a large Gomba, or Lamasery, with +a temple and a number of mud houses. I estimated the distance between +ourselves and the Gomba at only eight miles, a cheering fact, because I +hoped to get there fresh provisions that would enable us to proceed more +rapidly on our journey. We were now quite out of reach of the Gyanema +soldiers, as well as of such troublesome officials as the Barca Tarjum +and the Jong Pen of Taklakot. If we could only obtain a sufficient +quantity of food during the night, and proceed across country early the +next day, there would be little danger of being overtaken by our +pursuers. The Shokas were again shaking with fright at the idea of +entering a Tibetan settlement. I told them firmly that we must reach +Tucker Gomba and village that night.</p> + +<p>We had below us the two great lakes. Before I left this magnificent +panorama I could not help taking a last long look at the marvellous + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> + +scene. The Devil's Lake, with its broken, precipitous shores, its rocky +islands and outstretching peninsulas, was far more enchanting to me than +the sacred lake by its side, in which, according to tradition, dwelled +Mahadeva and all the other good gods. Although the water was equally +blue and limpid, although each lake had for a background the same +magnificent Gangri chain, Mansarowar, the creation of Brahma, was not +nearly so weirdly fascinating as its neighbor. Mansarowar had no ravines +rising precipitously from its waters. It was almost a perfect oval +without indentations. There was a stony, slanting plain some two miles +wide between the water's edge and the hills surrounding it, except along +the ridge separating it from the Rakastal, where its coast was slightly +more rugged and precipitous.</p> + +<p>Directly south of the lake was a chain of high peaks covered with snow, +from which several streams descended. From where we stood we could see +evident signs, as in the case of the Rakastal, that the level of the +lake must at one time have been at least thirty feet higher than it was +when I visited it. The slanting bed of small, rounded, smooth stones, +which extended from one and a half to two miles beyond the water-line, +was evidence enough that the level of the water must have been up to +that point. I believe that the lake was gradually receding.</p> + +<p>Round the lake there were several tumbling-down sheds in charge of +Lamas. Only one important Gomba (monastery) and a temple were to be +seen—<i>viz.</i>, at Tucker Village.</p> + +<p>I was told that a small Gomba and <i>serai</i> (resting-house for pilgrims), + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> + +in charge of Lamas, stood to the north-west of the lake, but I cannot +vouch for the accuracy of the statement, as I did not visit it myself, +and the information I received from Tibetans regarding its position and +importance was conflicting.</p> + +<p>As the nature of the country suddenly changed between the Devil's Lake +and Mansarowar, so, too, the weather and the temperature greatly +changed. Over the Rakastal we invariably saw a lovely blue sky, whereas +over Mansarowar heavy black clouds hung overhead and rain fell +incessantly. From time to time the wind blew off the rain for a few +minutes, and lovely effects of light played upon the water. Fresh +clouds, with violent bursts of thunder, soon made the scene again gloomy +and depressing.</p> + +<p>It was much warmer on the Mansarowar side of the ridge than on the +Rakastal side. Probably owing to the dampness, the air seemed quite +thick to breathe, instead of being crisp and light, as it was along the +shores of the Devil's Lake. Indeed, when I recall the Mansarowar, I +cannot help thinking that it was the home, not only of the gods, but +also of storms.</p> + +<p>We descended some two miles to the plain, and crossed a rapid delta of +the Langa Tsangpo, or Langa River; then another, a mile farther. As +these rivers came directly from the snows, the water was very cold, and +often three or four feet deep, owing to the thawing of the snow and ice +during the day.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>AMONG THE LAMAS</h3> + + +<p>No sooner had we reached the shores of the Mansarowar than the heavy +clouds, which had been hanging over our heads, poured forth such +torrents of rain that in a moment we were drenched to the skin. We were +marching fast, as our heavy loads were now on the two yaks. Night was +well advanced. The darkness was such that we could only see a few inches +in front of us. We were actually walking in an inch or two of water. A +fierce south-east wind drove the rain and hail so hard into our faces +and hands as to cause us considerable pain. We were chilled in our wet +garments, and our teeth were chattering. We walked quickly, keeping +close together. From time to time a bright flash of lightning shone on +the lake, and was followed by a terrific crash of thunder. We took +advantage of what we could see during those few seconds of light to +steer our way toward Tucker Village and Gomba.</p> + +<p>The rivers, swollen by the rain, were extremely difficult to cross. The +water seemed to flow so rapidly on the inclined bed that it was all we +could do to keep on our feet. So wet were we that we did not even take +the trouble to remove our shoes and garments, and we splashed, clothes +and all, across the streams we encountered. Three times we went into + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> + +the freezing water above our waists, and then marched on for endless +miles on the pebbly and stony incline. We could no more see where we +were going. The storm seemed to grow worse every minute. We stumbled on +amid large stones and bowlders, and fell over one another on slippery +rocks. Farther on we sank up to our knees in mud, which stuck in lumps +to our feet and made them as heavy as lead. It was a downpour such as I +had seldom before experienced.</p> + +<p>"Are you quite sure that this lake is the home of the gods?" I inquired +of Kachi. "Why, even on the Devil's Lake we had better weather than +this."</p> + +<p>"Yes, sir," replied Kachi. "But you make the gods angry, and that is why +they send thunder, hail, and rain to stop your progress. You are going +on against the gods, sir."</p> + +<p>"Never mind, Kachi. It cannot pour forever."</p> + +<p>At midnight we had no idea where we were; still we pushed on.</p> + +<p>"Have we passed the Gomba? Have we not yet reached it?" were the +questions we asked one another. It seemed to me that, at the rate we +were going, we should have been near the place, and yet after another +hour's tramp we had not struck it. I was under the impression that we +had gone about nine miles. I expressed the opinion that we had passed +it, but the Shokas insisted that we had not, so we again proceeded.</p> + +<p>We had hardly gone five hundred yards when we heard the faint, distant, +and most welcome bark of a dog. It came from the north-west, and we +surmised that it must come from Tucker. We had steered too far south of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> + +the place, which accounted for our missing it in the darkness.</p> + +<p>Guided by the yelping, we hastily directed our steps toward the +settlement. Suddenly the first dog was joined by fifty others, all angry +and noisy; but though we knew by the sound that we were approaching the +village, it was so dark and stormy that we could not find the place. +Only when we found ourselves close to the mud huts could we be certain +that we had at last arrived.</p> + +<p>It was then between 2 and 3 <span class="smcap">a.m</span>. The rain still came down in torrents. +There was no sign of the inhabitants being willing to give us shelter. +It was quite out of the question to pitch our little <i>tente d'abri</i>, for +our things were already wringing wet.</p> + +<p>We knocked on a door so hard that the door itself nearly gave way. This +was a shelter-house, a <i>serai</i> for pilgrims, and as we claimed to be +pilgrims, we had, by the laws of the country, a right to admission. +Nattoo, who had once before reached this lake by a different route, led +us to this house.</p> + +<p>"You are bandits," said a hoarse voice from inside, "or you would not +come at this hour."</p> + +<p>"No, we are not," we entreated. "Please open. We are well-to-do people. +We will harm no one, and pay for all."</p> + +<p>"<i>Middù, Middù!</i>" (Cannot be, no!) "You are brigands. I will not open."</p> + +<p>To show that we were not what they imagined, Chanden Sing and Dola +tapped again so gently at the door that the bolt gave way. The next + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> + +moment ten strangers were squatting down round a warm fire drying their +shrivelled-up, soaked skins by the flame of dried tamarisk and dung. The +landlord—a doctor, by-the-way—was reassured when he saw that we had no +evil intentions, and found some silver coins in the palm of his hand. +Yet, he said, he rather wished we would go and sleep somewhere else. +There was a capital empty hut next door, he suggested.</p> + +<p>On our agreeing to this, he conducted us to the place, and there we +spent the remainder of the night—or, rather, the early morning.</p> + +<p>Our abode was a one-storied flat-roofed house built of stones and mud. +There were two rooms—the first lighted by the door, the second and +larger having a square opening in the ceiling for the triple purpose of +ventilation, lighting, and outlet for the smoke of the fire, which +burned directly underneath in the centre of the room. The beams and +rafters supporting the roof had been brought over from the Indian side +of the Himahlyas, as no timber was to be found in western Tibet.</p> + +<p>This building was in charge of a young, half-crazy Lama, who was most +profuse in salutations, and who remained open-mouthed, gazing at us for +a considerable time. He was polite and attentive. He helped to dry our +things in the morning, and, whenever we asked for anything, he ran out +of the house in frantic fits of merriment, always bringing in what we +required.</p> + +<p>The heavy storm during the night had flooded our room. There was only +one corner of the floor slightly drier than the rest. There we all + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> + +slept huddled together. These <i>serais</i> have no claim to cleanliness. On +this occasion all the minor animal life that inhabited the floor had, +with a view to avoiding the water, retreated to the higher portion of +the room, which we also had selected, so that one more trial was added +to all our other miseries. We were simply devoured by a swarm of +insects. This, indeed, was a dreadful pest, and one from which we +suffered indescribable agonies, not only on this occasion, but whenever +we halted near Tibetan camps.</p> + +<p>When we rose in the morning the room was full of Tibetan men, women, and +children, who seemed good-natured and friendly.</p> + +<p>"<i>Tanga chick!</i>" (a silver coin equivalent to half a rupee) cried an old +woman, who stuck a dried fish under my nose, professing volubly that it +had been caught in Mansarowar, and that it would make its possessor the +happiest of mortals. Others unrolled, from inside pieces of red cloth in +which they were wrapped, jewellery in the form of brooches, rings, and +ear-rings of brass or silver, inlaid with malachite.</p> + +<p>"<i>Gurmoh sum!</i>" (Three rupees!), "<i>Diu, diu, diu!</i>" (Yes, yes, yes!), +"<i>Karuga ni!</i>" (Two two-anna pieces!), "<i>Gieut-cheke!</i>" (A four-anna +piece!), and so on, they called out the price of each article, all +talking at the same time, in their anxiety to dispose of their goods.</p> + +<p>The jewellery was of local manufacture. In some cases the pieces of +malachite were firmly set, but usually a kind of paste was used for +holding the stones, and, consequently, pretty as the jewels were, they +soon broke.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ear-rings were usually better made than the brooches. The most +interesting of all, because simpler and more characteristic, were the +flat silver charms, ornamented with a primitive design.</p> + +<p>Several Lamas came to call on me in the morning, and professed to be +pleased to see us; in fact, they asked me to go and pay them a visit in +the Lamasery and temple. They said there was much sickness in the +village, and as they believed me to be a Hindoo doctor, they wished I +could do something to relieve their sufferings. I promised to do all I +could. I was glad to have this unique chance of visiting a Lamasery. +During this friendly visit to the Lamas I carried my rifle in my hand. +The Tibetans were too friendly to be trusted.</p> + +<p>When I came out of our stuffy, dark room, preceded and followed by a +crowd of inquisitive natives, I had a good look round the village. After +the storm of the night we fully expected that the weather would clear +and that we might see a bright blue sky, but we had no luck. Over us +hung again threatening clouds. The waters of the sacred lake, softly +moved by the wind, washed gracefully upon the beach. Chanden Sing and +Mansing, the two Hindoos, without any clothing except a loincloth, were +squatting near the edge of the lake having their heads shaved by +Bijesing, the Johari. I must confess that I was somewhat annoyed when I +saw them using my best razor for the purpose. I repressed my anger on +remembering that, according to their religion, the fact of being at +Mansarowar absolved them from all sins. My two Hindoo servants, with + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> + +heads turned toward Kelas Mount, were praying so fervently that I stood +to watch them. They washed themselves repeatedly, and at last plunged +into the water of the lake. On coming out, shivering with cold, they +each took out of their clothes a silver rupee, and flung it into the +lake as an offering to the God Mahadeva. Then, with hairless faces and +heads, they dressed and came to pay their salaams to me, professing to +be now happy and pure.</p> + +<p>"Siva, the greatest of all gods, lives in the waters of Mansarowar!" +exclaimed Chanden Sing, in a poetic mood. "I have bathed in its waters, +and of its waters I have drunk. I have salaamed the great Kelas, the +sight of which alone can absolve all sins of humanity. I shall now go to +heaven."</p> + +<p>"I shall be satisfied if we get as far as Lhassa," grumbled the +sceptical Mansing, out of ear-reach of the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>Chanden Sing, who was well versed in religious matters, explained that +only Hindoo pilgrims who had lost both parents shaved their heads on +visiting Mansarowar, as a sacrifice to Siva. If they were of a high +caste, on their return to their native land after the pilgrimage it was +customary to entertain all the Brahmins of the town to a banquet. +According to Chanden Sing, a man who had bathed in Mansarowar was held +in great respect by everybody, and commanded the admiration and envy of +the entire world.</p> + +<p>The Mansarowar Lake is about forty-six miles round. Pilgrims who wish to +attain a great state of sanctity make a <i>kora</i>, or circuit, on foot + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> + +along the water-line. The journey occupies from four to seven days, +according to circumstances. One trip round will absolve the pilgrim from +ordinary sins; twice the circuit clears the conscience of any murder; +and three times will make honest and good a person who has killed his or +her father, mother, brother, or sister. There are fanatics who make the +tour on their knees; others accomplish the distance lying flat upon the +ground after each step.</p> + +<p>According to legend, Mansarowar was created by Brahma. He who shall +bathe in its waters will share the paradise of Mahadeva! No matter what +crimes he may have previously committed, a dip in the holy lake is +sufficient to purge the soul as well as the body of any criminal!</p> + +<p>When they had finished purifying themselves by washing, I ordered +Chanden Sing to take his rifle and follow me into the Gomba. Having +committed no crime, I thought I had better do without the holy bath, +although the temptation was great to go and have a swim. The Lamas were +so polite that I feared treachery on their part. To please my men and +perhaps bring myself some luck, I hurled a couple of coins into the +lake.</p> + +<p>The large square building, with its walls painted red and its flattish +dome of gilt copper rose by the waterside, and was both picturesque and +handsome in its severe simplicity.</p> + +<p>There came sounds from inside of deep, hoarse voices muttering prayers, +of tinkling of bells and clanging of cymbals. From time to time a drum +was beaten, giving a hollow sound, and an occasional and sudden touch + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> + +upon a gong caused the air to vibrate until the notes faded away as +they were carried over the holy lake.</p> + +<p>After Chanden Sing and I had entered the Lamasery, the large door, which +had been pushed wide open, was immediately closed. We were in a spacious +court-yard, three sides of which had two tiers of galleries supported by +columns.</p> + +<p>This was the <i>Lhaprang</i>, or Lama's house. Directly in front of me was +the <i>Lha Kang</i>, or temple, the floor of which was raised some five feet +above the level of the ground. A large door led into it. At this +entrance were, one on either side, recesses in which, by the side of a +big drum, squatted two Lamas with books of prayers before them, a +praying-wheel and a rosary in their hands, the beads of which they +shifted after every prayer. At our appearance the monks ceased their +prayers and beat the drums in an excited manner. There seemed to be some +disturbance in the Gomba. Lamas old and young rushed to and fro out of +their rooms, while a number of <i>Chibbis</i>, or novices (boys between the +ages of twelve and twenty), lined the railings of the upper veranda with +expressions of evident suspense and curiosity upon their faces. No doubt +the Lamas had prepared a trap for us. I warned Chanden Sing to be on the +alert, and set him on guard at the entrance of the temple. I deposited a +few silver coins on the drum of the Lama to my right, took off my shoes +in sign of respect, and—much to the amazement of the monks—quietly +entered the house of worship. Partly astonished at the sight of the +silver, and more so at my want of caution, the Lamas, of whom there + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> + +were a good number in the court-yard, remained motionless and dumb. The +High Lama, or Father Superior of the monastery, at last came forward +stooping low. He placed one thumb above the other and put his tongue out +to show his approval of my visit to the many images representing deities +or sanctified Buddhist heroes which were grouped along the walls of the +temple. The largest of these figures were about five feet high, the +others about three feet. Some were carved out of wood, their drapery and +ornaments being fairly artistic in arrangement and execution, while +others were fashioned in gilt metal. There were images in a sitting +posture and some standing erect. They rested either on ornamented or +plain pedestals painted blue, red, white, and yellow. Many wore the +ancient Chinese double-winged cap, and were placed in recesses in the +wall decorated with stuffs, wood-carvings, and rough paintings of +images.</p> + +<p>At the foot of these images was a long shelf, on which, in bright brass +vessels of all sizes, were oblations of <i>tsamba</i>, dried fruit, <i>chura</i>, +wheat, and rice, offered, through the Lamas, by devotees to the +different saints. Some of the ears of barley were ornamented with +imitation leaves modelled in butter, and colored red, blue, and yellow.</p> + +<p>The ceiling of the temple was draped in red woollen cloth similar to +that of the clothes worn by the Lamas. From it hung hundreds of strips +of silk, wool, and cotton of all colors. The roof was supported by +columns of wood forming a quadrangle in the centre of the temple. These +were joined by a balustrade, compelling the worshippers to make a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> + +circuit from left to right, in order to pass before the several images.</p> + +<p>In a shrine in the central part of the wall facing the entrance was +<i>Urghin</i>, or <i>Kunjuk-chick</i> (God alone). In front of it on a kind of +altar covered with a carpet were to be seen donations far more abundant +than those offered to other images.</p> + +<p>The Lama, pointing at it, told me that it was a good God. I saluted it +and deposited a small offering in the collection-box. This seemed to +please the Lama greatly, for he at once fetched a holy-water amphora, +hung with long "veils of friendship and love,"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> and poured some +scented liquid on the palms of my hands. Then, producing a strip of +veil, he wetted it with the scent and presented it to me. The majority +of pilgrims generally go round the inside of the temple on their knees, +but, notwithstanding that, to avoid offending prejudices, I generally +follow the principle of doing in Rome as the Romans do, I could not here +afford the chance of placing myself at such a disadvantage in case of a +surprise. The High Lama explained the different images to me, and threw +handfuls of rice over them as he called them by their respective names, +all of which I tried hard to remember, but, alas! before I could get +back to the <i>serai</i> and scribble them down on paper, they had all +escaped my memory. A separate entrance led from the monastery into the +temple.</p> + +<p>Lights, burning in brass bowls, their wicks being fed with melted + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> + +butter, were scattered on the floor in the central quadrangle. Near them +lay oblong books of prayers printed on the smooth yellow Tibetan paper +made from a fibrous bark. Near these books were small drums and cymbals. +One double drum, I noticed, was made from reversed sections of human +skulls. My attention was also attracted by some peculiar head-gear worn +by the Lamas during their services and ceremonies, when they not only +accompany their chanting and prayers with the beating of drums and +clashing of cymbals, but they also make a noise on cane flutes, tinkle +hand-bells, and sound a large gong. The noise of these instruments is at +times so great that the prayers themselves cannot be heard. +Awe-inspiring masks are used by Lamas in their eccentric and mystic +dances. The Lamas spend the entire day in the temple and consume much +tea with butter and salt in it, which is brought to them in cups by +Lamas of an inferior order acting as servants. They pass hour after hour +in their temples, apparently absorbed in praying to the God above all +gods, the incarnation of all the saints together united in a trinity, +the <i>Kunjuk-Sum</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Kunjuk-Sum</i>, translated literally, means "the three deities." Some take +it to refer to the elements—air, water, and fire—which in the Tibetan +mind are symbols of speech, charity, and strength or life. One great +point in Buddhism is the love and respect for one's father and mother, +and the prohibition to injure one's neighbors in any way. The latter is +preached, but seldom practised. According to the commandments contained +in some eight hundred volumes called "the Kajars," the Tibetans believe + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> + +in a heaven (the <i>Deva Tsembo</i>) free from all anxieties of human +existence, full of love and joy. Their heaven is ruled over by a god of +infinite goodness, helped by countless disciples called the <i>Chanchubs</i>, +who spend their existence in performing charitable deeds among living +creatures. With a number of intermediate places of happiness and +punishment, they even believe in a hell where the souls of sinners are +tormented by fire and ice.</p> + +<p>"God sees and knows everything, and He is everywhere," exclaimed the +Lama, "but we cannot see Him! Only the <i>Chanchubs</i> can see and speak to +Him."</p> + +<p>"What are the evil qualities to be mostly avoided?" I inquired of the +High Lama, who spoke a little Hindustani.</p> + +<p>"Luxury, pride, and envy," he replied.</p> + +<p>"Do you ever expect to become a saint?" I asked him.</p> + +<p>"Yes, I hope so; but it takes five hundred transmigrations of an +uncontaminated soul before one can be a saint."</p> + +<p>Then, as if waking to a sudden thought, he seized my hand impulsively +and spread my fingers apart. Having done this, he muttered two or three +words of surprise. His face became serious, even solemn, and he treated +me with strange obsequiousness. Rushing out of the temple, he went to +inform the other Lamas of his discovery, whatever it was. They crowded +round him, and from their words and gestures it was easy to see they +were bewildered.</p> + +<p>When I left the company of the strange idols and came into the +court-yard, every Lama wished to examine and touch my hand. The sudden +change in their behavior was to me a source of great curiosity, until I +learned the real cause of it some weeks later.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> <i>Kata</i> (veil of friendship and love)—a long piece of gauze +presented on all occasions in Tibet in order to show friendly +feelings.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>LIFE IN THE MONASTERIES</h3> + + +<p>Before I left the monastery the Lamas asked me many questions about +India and concerning medicine. They also questioned me as to whether I +had heard that a young Englishman had crossed over the frontier with a +large army, which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had defeated, beheading the +leader and the principal members of the expedition.</p> + +<p>I professed to be ignorant of these facts. I was amused at the casual +way in which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had disposed of the bear-skin +before he had even caught the bear. The Lamas mistook me for a Hindoo +doctor, owing to the color of my face, which was sunburnt, and had long +remained unwashed. I wore no disguise. They thought that I was on a +pilgrimage round the Mansarowar Lake. They appeared anxious to know +whether illnesses were cured by occult science in India, or by medicine +only. I, who, on the other hand, was more interested in getting +information than in giving it, turned the conversation on the Lamas +themselves.</p> + +<p>There are sects of red, yellow, white, and black Lamas. The red ones are +the older and more numerous throughout the country. Next to them come +the yellow Lamas, the <i>Gelupkas</i>, equally powerful in political and + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> + +religious matters, but not quite so numerous. The white Lamas and the +black Lamas, the <i>Julinba</i>, are the craftsmen in the monasteries. They +do the painting, printing, pottery, and the ornamentation of temples, +besides attending on the other Lamas and making themselves useful in the +capacities of cooks, shepherds, water-carriers, writers, and last, but +not least, executioners. The Lamaseries are usually rich. The Tibetans +are a deeply devout race, and the Lamas are not backward in extorting +money, under pretences of all kinds, from the ignorant worshippers. +Besides attending to their religious functions, the Lamas are traders. +They carry on a brisk money-lending business, charging a high interest, +which falls due every month. If this should remain unpaid, all the +property of the borrower is seized, and if insufficient to repay the +loan the debtor himself becomes a slave of the monastery. The well-fed +countenances of the Lamas are, with few exceptions, evident proof that +notwithstanding their occasional bodily privations, they do not allow +themselves to suffer in any way. They lead a smooth and comfortable +existence of comparative luxury.</p> + +<p>The larger Lamaseries receive a yearly Government allowance. +Considerable sums are collected from offerings of the faithful, and +other moneys are obtained in all sorts of ways which, in any country +less religious than Tibet, would be considered dishonorable and even +criminal. In Tibet it is well known that, except in the larger towns, +nearly all people, excluding brigands and Lamas, are poor, while the +monks and their agents thrive on the fat of the land. The masses are + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> + +maintained in complete ignorance. Seldom is a layman found who can read +or write.</p> + +<p>The Lamaseries and the Lamas, as well as the land and property belonging +to them, are absolutely free from all taxes and dues. Each Lama and +novice is supported for life, and receives an allowance of <i>tsamba</i>, +bricks of tea, and salt. The Lamas are recruited from all ranks. Honest +folks, murderers, thieves, swindlers—all are eagerly welcomed in +joining the brotherhood. One or two male members of each family in Tibet +take monastic orders, and thus the monks obtain a powerful influence +over each house or tent-hold. It is hardly an exaggeration to say that +in Tibet half the members of the male population are Lamas.</p> + +<p>In each monastery are found Lamas, Chibbis,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> and a lower grade of +ignorant and depraved Lamas—slaves, as it were, of the higher Lamas. +The latter dress, and have clean-shaven heads like their superiors. They +do all the handiwork of the monastery; but they are mere servants, and +take no direct, active part in the politics of the Lama Government. The +Chibbis are novices. They enter the Lamasery when young, and remain +students for many years. They are constantly under the teaching and +supervision of the older ones. Confession is practised, from inferior to +superior. After undergoing successfully several examinations, a Chibbi +becomes a Lama, which word translated means "high-priest." These Chibbis +take minor parts in the strange religious ceremonies in which the Lamas, +disguised in skins and ghastly masks, sing and dance with extraordinary + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> + +contortions to the accompaniment of weird music of bells, horns, flutes, +cymbals, and drums.</p> + +<p>Each large monastery has at its head a Grand Lama, not to be confounded +with the Dalai Lama of Lhassa, who is believed, or rather supposed, to +have an immortal soul transmigrating from one body into another.</p> + +<p>The Lamas eat, drink, and sleep together in the monastery, with the +exception of the Grand Lama, who has a room to himself. For one "moon" +in every twelve they observe a strict seclusion, which they devote to +praying. During that time they are not allowed to speak. They fast for +twenty-four hours at a time, with only water and butter-tea, eating on +fast-days only sufficient food to remain alive, and depriving themselves +of everything else, including snuff and spitting—the two most common +habits among Tibetan men.</p> + +<p>The Lamas have great pretensions to infallibility, and on account of +this they claim, and obtain, the veneration of the people, by whom they +are supported, fed, and clothed. I found the Lamas, as a rule, +intelligent, but inhuman, even barbarously cruel and dishonorable. This +was not my own experience alone. I heard the same from the overridden +natives, who wished for nothing better than a chance to shake off their +yoke.</p> + +<p>Availing themselves of the absolute ignorance in which they succeed in +keeping the people, the Lamas practise to a great extent strange arts, +by which they profess to cure illnesses, discover murders and thefts, +stop rivers from flowing, and bring storms about at a moment's notice. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> + +Certain ceremonies, they say, drive away the evil spirits that cause +disease. The Lamas are adepts at hypnotic experiments, by which means +they contrive to let the subjects under their influence see many things +which are not there in reality. To this power are due the frequent +reports of apparitions of Buddha, seen generally by single individuals, +and the visions of demons, the accounts of which terrify the +simple-minded natives. Rather than get more closely acquainted with +these evil spirits the ignorant pay the monastery whatever little cash +they may possess.</p> + +<p>Mesmerism plays an important part in the weird Lama dances, which show +the strangest kind of movements and attitudes. The dancer finally falls +into a cataleptic state, and remains rigid, as if dead, for a long time.</p> + +<p>The larger Lamaseries support one or more Lama sculptors, who travel to +the most inaccessible spots in the district, in order to carve on +cliffs, rocks, stones, or on pieces of horn, the everlasting +inscription, "<i>Omne mani padme hun</i>," which one sees all over the +country.</p> + +<p>Weird and picturesque places, such as the highest points on mountain +passes, gigantic bowlders, rocks near the sources of rivers, or any spot +where a <i>mani</i> wall exists, are the places most generally selected by +these artists upon which to engrave the magic words alluding to the +reincarnation of Buddha from a lotus flower.</p> + +<p>The prayer-wheels, those mechanical contrivances by which the Tibetans +pray to their god by means of water, wind, and hand power, are also +manufactured by Lama artists. The larger ones, moved by water, are + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> + +constructed by the side of, or over, a stream. The huge cylinders on +which the entire Tibetan prayer-book is inscribed are revolved by the +flowing water. The prayers moved by wind-power are merely long strips of +cloth on which prayers are often printed. As long as there is motion +there is prayer, say the Tibetans, so these strips of cloth are left to +flap in the wind. The small prayer-wheels, revolved by hand, are of two +different kinds, and are made either of silver or copper. Those for home +use are cylinders about six inches high. Inside these revolve on pivots +the rolls of prayers which, by means of a projecting knob above the +machine, the worshipper sets in motion. The prayers can be seen +revolving inside through a square opening in the cylinder. The +prayer-wheel in every-day use in Tibet is usually constructed of copper, +sometimes of brass, and frequently entirely, or partly, of silver. The +cylinder has two movable lids, between which the prayer-roll fits +tightly. A handle with an iron rod is passed through the centre of the +cylinder and roll, and is kept in its place by means of a knob. A ring, +encircling the cylinder, is attached to a short hanging chain and +weight. This, when started by a jerk of the hand, gives the wheel a +rotatory movement, which must, according to rule, be from left to right. +The words "<i>Omne mani padme hun</i>," or simply "<i>Mani, mani</i>," are +repeated while the wheel is in motion.</p> + +<p>The more ancient wheels have prayers written by hand instead of being +printed. Charms, such as rings of malachite, jade, bone, or silver, are +often attached to the weight and chain by which the rotatory movement + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> + +is given to the wheel. These praying-machines are found in every +Tibetan family. Every Lama possesses one. They are kept jealously, and +it is difficult for strangers to purchase the genuine ones.</p> + +<p>Besides the rosary, which is used as with the Roman Catholics, one +prayer for each bead, the Lamas have a brass instrument which they twist +between the palms of their hands while saying prayers. It is from two +and a half to three inches long, and is rounded so as to be easily held +in the hollow of the two hands.</p> + +<p>In Tibet, as in other Buddhist countries, there are nunneries as well as +Lamaseries. The nuns, most unattractive in themselves, shave their +heads, and practise witchcraft and magic, just as the Lamas do. They are +looked down upon by the masses. In some of these nunneries strict +confinement is actually enforced. The women of the nunneries are quite +as immoral as their brethren of the Lamaseries, and at their best they +are but a low type of humanity.</p> + +<p>The only Lamas who, at certain periods of the year, are legally allowed +an unusual amount of freedom with women, are those who practise the art +of making musical instruments and eating-vessels out of human bones. The +skull is used for making drinking-cups, <i>tsamba</i> bowls, and single and +double drums. The bone of the upper arm, thigh-bone, and shin-bone are +turned into trumpets and pipes. These particular Lamas are said to +relish human blood, which they drink out of the cups made from men's +skulls.</p> + +<p>When I left the Gomba—my new friends, the Lamas, bowing down to the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> + +ground as I departed—I walked about the village to examine all there +was to be seen.</p> + +<p>Along the water's edge at the east end of the village stood in a row a +number of tumbling-down Choktens of mud and stone. These structures +consisted of a square base surmounted by a moulding, and an upper +decoration in ledges, topped by a cylindrical column. Each was supposed +to contain a piece of bone, cloth, or metal, and books or parts of them, +that had once belonged to a great man or a saint. Roughly drawn images +were occasionally found in them. In rare cases, when cremation had been +applied, the ashes were collected in a small earthenware urn and +deposited in one of the Choktens. The ashes were made into a paste with +clay, and then flattened into a medallion on which a representation of +Buddha was either stamped from a mould or engraved with a pointed tool.</p> + +<p>The interior of the houses at Tucker was no better than the outside. +Each habitation had a walled court-yard. The top of the wall, as well as +the edge of the flat roof of the house, was lined with masses of +tamarisk for fuel. In the court-yard sheep and goats were penned at +night. The human beings who occupied the rooms were dirty beyond all +description. There were hundreds of flying-prayers over the monastery, +as well as over each house. The people, laughing and chatting, stood on +the roofs watching us.</p> + +<p>While I was strolling about some fifty or sixty men armed with +matchlocks and swords appeared on the scene. I looked upon them with +suspicion, but Kachi reassured me, and said they were not soldiers, but + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> + +a powerful band of robbers encamped about half a mile off, and on +friendly terms with the Lamas. As a precaution I loaded my rifle. This +was quite sufficient to cause a stampede of the armed crowd, followed, +in the panic, by all the other villagers who had collected round us. +Like all Tibetans, they were a miserable lot, though powerfully built +and with plenty of bluster about them.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning I had made inquiries about provisions, and had +arranged for the purchase of two fat sheep and some four hundred and +fifty pounds of food—flour, rice, <i>tsamba</i>, <i>ghur</i> (sweet paste), +sugar, salt, and butter. Several Tibetans stated they could supply me +with any quantity I required. Among others was a Shoka trader from +Buddhi, who promised to bring me, within an hour, a sufficient quantity +of food to last us ten men twenty-five days. I noticed, when these men +left, that two of my Shokas ran after them, and entered into an excited +discussion with them. Some two or three hours later the traders +returned, swearing that not an ounce of food could be obtained in the +place. The way in which these men could lie was marvellous. I +reprimanded my Shokas, threatening to punish them severely if my +suspicions of their treachery proved to be well founded.</p> + +<p>The Shokas, finding themselves discovered, and through fear of the +Tibetans, were now again demoralized. It was no use keeping them by +force, and I decided to discharge them. From the moment I had entered +the forbidden country I had been compelled to protect myself against +them quite as much as against the Tibetans. I reflected, however, when + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> + +I made up my mind to let them go, that these fellows had stood for my +sake hardships and privations which few men could stand. In paying them +off I therefore rewarded them suitably, and in their gratitude they +undertook to bring back safely across the frontier part of my baggage +containing photographs, ethnological collections, etc. This promise was +duly fulfilled. With infinite trouble I then managed to purchase enough +provisions to last five men ten days.</p> + +<p>The whole party accompanied me three and a quarter miles farther, where +in sight of the tumbling-down Panku Gomba, a mile to the west of us, we +halted in order to make the necessary arrangements for our parting, +unseen by the Tibetans. I took observations for latitude and longitude. +The water of the hypsometrical apparatus boiled at 185° Fahrenheit, +fifty feet above the level of the lake, the temperature of the air being +76° and the hour 10 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></p> + +<p>We could see a high snowy chain to the south of us, extending +approximately from south-west to north-east, starting from the Nimo +Namzil peak.</p> + +<p>When everything was ready the five Shokas, including Kachi and Dola, +left me, swearing by the sun and all that they held most sacred that +they would in no way betray me to the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>Bijesing the Johari and Nattoo agreed to accompany me as far as the +Maium Pass, so that my party, including myself, now was reduced to only +five men.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>Chibbis</i>—also frequently pronounced <i>Chabis</i>.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>ANOTHER DISASTER</h3> + + +<p>Everything promised well when, with my reduced party, I started toward +the north-east, first skirting the lake for three and a quarter miles, +then ascending over the barren hill ranges in an easterly direction for +a distance of twelve miles. The journey was uneventful. My four men +seemed in the best of spirits. We descended to a plain where water and +grass could be found. Having come upon a camping-ground with a +protecting wall, such as are usually put up by Tibetans at their +halting-places, we made ourselves comfortable for the night, +notwithstanding the high wind and a passing storm of hail and rain, +which drenched us to the skin. The thermometer during the night went +down to 34°.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-06.jpg" width="397" height="600" alt="fig6" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">A NATURAL CASTLE</p> + +<p>At sunrise I started to make a reconnaissance from the top of a high +hill wherefrom I could get a bird's-eye view of a great portion of the +surrounding country. It was of the utmost importance for me to find out +which would be the easiest way to get through the intricate succession +of hills and mountains, and I also wished to ascertain the exact +direction of a large river to the north of us, which discharged its +waters into the Mansarowar. I started alone. A three and a half miles' +climb brought me to the summit of a hill, 16,480 feet, where I was able</p> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> + +to ascertain all I wished to know. I returned to camp, and we proceeded +on a course of 73° 30', crossing over a pass 16,450 feet high. Then we +found ourselves in front of a hill, the summit of which resembled a +fortress, with flying-prayers flapping in the wind. At the foot of the +hill were some twenty ponies grazing.</p> + +<p>With the aid of my telescope I made sure that what at first appeared to +be a castle was nothing but a work of nature. Apparently no one was +concealed up there. The ponies, however, indicated the presence of men, +and we had to proceed with caution. In fact, rounding the next hill, we +discerned in the grassy valley below a number of black tents, two +hundred yaks, and about a thousand sheep. We kept well out of sight +behind the hill. We went a long way around it, and at last descended +into an extensive valley. The river described a semicircle through this +valley, close to the southern hill range, and it was joined by a +tributary coming from the south-east. This tributary at first appeared +to me larger than what I afterward recognized to be the main stream. I +followed its course for four miles, but found that it was taking me in a +more southerly direction than I wished, and had to retrace my steps +along a flattish plateau.</p> + +<p>Meeting two Tibetan women, I purchased, after endless trouble, a fat +sheep out of a flock they were driving before them. These two females +carried rope slings in their hands. The accuracy with which they could +fling stones and hit the mark at great distances was really marvellous. +For a few coppers they gave an exhibition of their skill, hitting any +sheep they liked in their flock, even at distances of thirty and forty + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> + +yards. I tried to obtain from these dangerous creatures a little +information about the country, but they professed absolute ignorance.</p> + +<p>"We are servants," they said, "and we know nothing. We know each sheep +in our flock, and that is all. Our lord, whose slaves we are, knows all. +He knows where the rivers come from, and the ways to all Gombas. He is a +great king."</p> + +<p>"And where does he live?" I inquired.</p> + +<p>"There, two miles off, where that smoke rises to the sky."</p> + +<p>The temptation was great to go and call on this "great king," who knew +so many things. We might probably persuade him to sell us provisions. As +we had none too many, they would be of great assistance to us. Anyhow +the visit would be interesting. I decided to risk it.</p> + +<p>We steered toward the several columns of smoke that rose before us, and +at last we approached a large camp of black tents. Our appearance caused +a commotion. Men and women rushed in and out of their tents in great +excitement.</p> + +<p>"<i>Jogpas! jogpas!</i>" (Brigands! brigands!) somebody in their camp +shouted. In a moment their matchlocks were made ready, and the few men +who had remained outside the tents drew their swords, holding them +clumsily in their hands in a way hardly likely to terrify any one.</p> + +<p>To be taken for brigands was a novel experience for us. The war-like +array was in strange contrast to the terrified expressions on the faces +of those who stood there armed. In fact, when Chanden Sing and I walked + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> + +forward and encouraged them to sheathe their steels and put their +matchlocks by, they readily followed our advice, and brought out rugs +for us to sit upon. Having overcome their fright, they were most anxious +to be pleasant.</p> + +<p>"<i>Kiula gunge gozai deva labodù</i>" (You have nice clothes). I began the +conversation, attempting flattery, to put the chieftain at his ease.</p> + +<p>"<i>Lasso, leh</i>" (Yes, sir), answered the Tibetan, apparently astonished, +and looking at his own attire with an air of comical pride.</p> + +<p>His answer was sufficient to show me that the man considered me his +superior. Had he thought me an equal or inferior he would have said +<i>lasso</i> without the <i>leh</i>.</p> + +<p>"<i>Kiula tuku taka zando?</i>" (How many children have you?) I rejoined.</p> + +<p>"<i>Ni</i>" (Two).</p> + +<p>"<i>Chuwen bogpe, tsamba, chon won ì?</i>" (Will you sell me flour or +<i>tsamba</i>?)</p> + +<p>"<i>Middù</i>" (Have not got any) he replied, making several quick +semicircular movements with the upturned palm of his right hand.</p> + +<p>This is a most characteristic gesture of the Tibetan, and nearly +invariably accompanies the word "No," instead of a movement of the head, +as with us.</p> + +<p>"<i>Keran ga naddoung?</i>" (Where are you going?) he asked me, eagerly.</p> + +<p>"<i>Nhgarang ne koroun!</i>" (I am a pilgrim!) "<i>Lungba quorghen neh +jelghen</i>" (I go looking at sacred places).</p> + +<p>"<i>Gopria zaldo. Chakzal wortzé. Tsamba middù. Bogpe middù, guram middù, +dié middù, kassur middù</i>" (I am very poor. Please hear me. I have no + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> + +<i>tsamba</i>, no flour, no sweet paste, no rice, no dried fruit).</p> + +<p>This, of course, I knew to be untrue. I calmly said that I would remain +seated where I was until food was sold to me. At the same time I +produced one or two silver coins, the display of which in Tibet was +always the means of hastening the transaction of business. In small +handfuls, after each of which the Tibetans swore that they had not +another particle to sell, I managed, with somewhat of a trial to my +patience, to purchase some twenty pounds of food. The moment the money +was handed over they had a quarrel among themselves about its division, +and they almost came to blows. Greed and avarice are the most marked +characteristics of the Tibetans. Tibetans of any rank are not ashamed to +beg in the most abject manner for the smallest silver coin.</p> + +<p>The men of the party were picturesque. They had flat, broad noses, high +cheek-bones, and small, slanting (mere slits), piercing eyes. Their hair +was plaited in long pig-tails ornamented with pieces of red cloth, discs +of ivory, and silver coins. Nearly all wore the typical dark-red coat, +with ample sleeves hanging over the hands, and pulled up at the waist to +receive eating-bowls, snuff-box, and other articles of daily use. All +were armed with jewelled swords.</p> + +<p>They stood at a respectable distance, studying our faces and watching +our movements with apparent interest. I have hardly ever seen such +cowardice as among these big, hulking fellows. To a European it scarcely +seemed conceivable. The mere raising of one's eyes was sufficient to + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> + +make a man dash away frightened. With the exception of the chief, who +pretended to be unafraid, notwithstanding that he was trembling with +fear, they one and all showed ridiculous nervousness when I approached +them to examine the ornaments they wore round their necks, such as the +charm-boxes that dangled prominently on their chests. The larger of +these charm-boxes contained an image of Buddha, the others were mere +empty brass or silver cases.</p> + +<p>When night came I did not consider it safe to encamp near the Tibetans. +We moved away, driving our yaks before us and dragging the newly +purchased sheep. We marched two and a half miles, and then halted in a +depression (16,050 feet), where we had a little shelter from the wind, +which blew with great force. To our right was a short range of fairly +high mountains stretching from north to south. Through a gorge flowed a +large stream. At that time of the evening we could not hope to cross it, +but an attempt might be made in the morning, when the cold of the night +would have checked the melting of the snows, and therefore lowered the +level of the water in the river. Heavy showers had fallen during the +day. The moment the sun went down there was a regular downpour. We had +pitched our little shelter-tent, but we had to clear out of it a couple +of hours later, the small basin in which we had pitched it having turned +into a regular pond. There was no alternative for us but to come out +into the open. Where the water did not flood us the wind was so high and +the ground so moist that it was not possible to keep our tent up. The + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> + +pegs would not hold. The hours of the night seemed long as we sat +tightly wrapped in our waterproofs, with feet, hands, and ears almost +frozen. At dawn there were no signs of the storm abating. We had not +been able to light a fire in the evening, nor could we light one now. We +were cold, hungry, and miserable. The thermometer had been down to 36°. +Toward noon, the rain still pouring down in torrents and there being no +sign of its clearing, we loaded our yaks and entered the gorge between +the snow-covered mountains. With difficulty we crossed the tributary we +had so far followed, and then proceeded along the right bank of the main +stream.</p> + +<p>We were so exhausted and wet that when near the evening we came to an +enormous cliff, on the rocky face of which a patient Lama sculptor had +engraved in huge letters the characters, <i>Omne mani padme hun</i>, we +halted. The gorge was very narrow here. We found a dry spot under a big +bowlder, but as there was not sufficient room for all five, the two +Shokas went under the shelter of another rock a little way off. This +seemed natural enough. I took care of the weapons and the scientific +instruments, while the Shokas had under their own sheltering bowlder the +bags containing nearly all our provisions except the reserve of tinned +meats. The rain pelted all night, the wind howled. Again we could not +light a fire. The thermometer did not descend below 38°, but the cold, +owing to our drenched condition, seemed intense. In fact, we were so +chilled that we did not venture to eat. Crouching in the small dry space +at our disposal and without tasting food, we eventually fell fast +asleep. I slept soundly for the first time since I had been in Tibet. +It was broad daylight when I woke up.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-07.jpg" width="600" height="396" alt="fig7" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">CAMP WITH GIGANTIC INSCRIPTIONS</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p>Taking advantage of the storm, the men Nattoo and Bijesing had escaped +during the night with the loads intrusted to them. I discovered their +tracks, half washed away, in the direction from which we had come the +previous night. The rascals had bolted, and there would have been +comparatively little harm in that, if only they had not taken with them +all the stock of provisions for my two Hindoo servants, and a quantity +of good rope, straps, and other articles, which we were bound to miss at +every turn, and which we had absolutely no means of replacing.</p> + +<p>Of thirty picked servants who had started with me, twenty-eight had now +abandoned me. Only two remained faithful: Chanden Sing and Mansing the +leper!</p> + +<p>The weather continued horrible. No food for my men and no fuel! I +proposed to the two Hindoos to go back also and let me continue alone. I +described to them the dangers of following me farther, and warned them +fully, but they absolutely refused to leave me.</p> + +<p>"Sir, we are not Shokas," were their words. "If you die, we will die +with you. We fear not death. We are sorry to see you suffer, sir, but +never mind us. We are only poor people, therefore it is of no +consequence."</p> + +<p>This last disaster should, I suppose, have deterred us from further +progress. It somehow made me even more determined to persist than +before. It was no light job to have to run afield to capture the yaks, +which had wandered off in search of grass; and having found them and + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> + +driven them back to our primitive camping-place, to tie upon their backs +the pack-saddles, and fasten on them the heavy tin-lined cases of +scientific instruments and photographic plates. This task was only part +of the day's work, which included the writing up of my diary, the +registering of observations, sketching, photographing, changing plates +in cameras, occasionally developing negatives, surveying, cleaning +rifles, revolver, etc. The effort of lifting up the heavy cases on to +the pack-saddles was, owing to our exhausted condition, a severe tax on +our strength. The tantalizing restlessness of the yaks forced us to make +many attempts before we actually succeeded in properly fastening the +loads, particularly as the Shoka deserters had stolen our best pieces of +rope and the leather straps. One of the remaining pieces of rope was +hardly long enough to make the final knot to one of the girths. Neither +Chanden Sing nor Mansing had sufficient strength to pull and make it +join. I made them hold the yak by the horns to keep him steady while I +pulled my hardest. I succeeded with a great effort, and was about to get +up when a terrific blow from the yak's horn struck me in the skull an +inch behind my right ear and sent me rolling head over heels. I was +stunned for several moments. I gradually recovered, but the back of my +head was swollen and sore for many days after.</p> + +<p>We proceeded along the right bank of the river between reddish hills and +distant high snowy mountains to the north-west and east-south-east of +us, which we saw from time to time when the rain ceased and the sky + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> + +cleared. The momentary lifting of the clouds was ever followed by +another downpour. Marching became unpleasant and difficult, sinking, as +we were, deep in the mud. Toward evening we suddenly discovered some +hundred and fifty soldiers riding full gallop in pursuit of us along the +river valley. We pushed on, and having got out of their sight behind a +hill, we changed our course and rapidly climbed up to the top of the +hill range. My two men with the yaks concealed themselves on the other +side. I remained lying flat on the top of the hill, spying with my +telescope the movements of our pursuers. They rode unsuspectingly on, +the tinkling of their horse-bells sounding pleasant to the ear in that +deserted spot. Thinking that we had continued our way along the river, +they rode beyond the spot where we had left the path. Owing to their +haste to catch us up, they did not notice our tracks up the hillside.</p> + +<p>Rain began to fall heavily again, and we remained encamped at 17,000 +feet, with our loads ready for flight at any moment. The night was spent +none too comfortably. I sat up all night, rifle in hand, in case of a +surprise, and I was indeed glad when morning came. The rain had stopped, +but we were now enveloped in a white mist which chilled us. I was tired. +Chanden Sing was intrusted to keep a sharp watch while I tried to sleep.</p> + +<p>"<i>Hazur, hazur, jaldi apka banduk!</i>" (Sir, sir, quick, your rifle!) +muttered my servant, rousing me. "Do you hear the sound of bells?"</p> + +<p>The tinkling was quite plain. Our pursuers were approaching, evidently +in strong force. There was no time to be lost. To successfully evade + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> + +them appeared impossible. I decided to meet them rather than attempt +flight. Chanden Sing and I were armed with our rifles, Mansing with his +Gourkha knife. We awaited their arrival. There came out of the mist a +long procession of gray, phantom-like figures, each one leading a pony. +The advance-guard stopped from time to time to examine the ground; +having discovered our footprints only partially washed away by the rain, +they were following them up. Seeing us at last on the top of the hill, +they halted. There was a commotion among them. They held an excited +consultation. Some of them unslung their matchlocks, others drew their +swords, while we sat on a rock above and watched them attentively.</p> + +<p>After hesitating a little, four officers signalled to us that they +wished to approach.</p> + +<p>"You are a great king," shouted one at the top of his voice, "and we +want to lay these presents at your feet." He pointed to some small bags +which the other three men were carrying. "<i>Gelbo! Chakzal! Chakzal!</i>" +(We salute you, king!)</p> + +<p>I felt anything but regal after the wretched night we had spent, but I +wished to treat the natives with due deference and politeness whenever +it was possible.</p> + +<p>I said that four men might approach, but the bulk of the party must +withdraw to a spot about two hundred yards away. This they immediately +did—a matter of some surprise to me after the war-like attitude they +had assumed at first. They laid their matchlocks down in the humblest of +fashions, and duly replaced their swords in their sheaths. The four + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> + +officers approached, and when quite close to us, threw the bags on the +ground and opened them to show us the contents. There was <i>tsamba</i>, +flour, <i>chura</i> (a kind of cheese), <i>guram</i> (sweet paste), butter, and +dried fruit. The officers were most profuse in their salutations. They +had removed their caps and thrown them on the ground, and they kept +their tongues sticking out of their mouths until I begged them to draw +them in. They professed to be the subordinates of the Tokchim Tarjum, +who had despatched them to inquire after my health, and who wished me to +look upon him as my best friend. Well aware of the difficulties we must +encounter in travelling through such an inhospitable country, the +Tarjum, they said, wished me to accept the gifts they now laid before +me. With these they handed me a <i>kata</i>, or "the scarf of love and +friendship," a long piece of thin silk-like gauze, the end of which had +been cut into a fringe. In Tibet these <i>katas</i> accompany every gift. A +caller is expected instantly on arrival to produce a <i>kata</i> for +presentation to his host. The High Lamas sell <i>katas</i> to devotees. One +of these scarves is presented to those who leave a satisfactory offering +after visiting a Lamasery. If a verbal message is sent to a friend, a +<i>kata</i> is sent with it. Among officials and Lamas small pieces of this +silk gauze are enclosed even in letters. Not to give or send a <i>kata</i> to +an honored visitor is considered a breach of good manners, and is +equivalent to a slight.</p> + +<p>I hastened to express my thanks for the Tarjum's kindness, and I handed +the messengers a sum in silver of three times the value of the articles + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> + +presented. The men seemed pleasant and friendly, and we chatted for +some time. Much to my annoyance, poor Mansing, bewildered at the sight +of so much food, could no longer resist the pangs of hunger. Caring +little for the breach of etiquette and likely consequences, he proceeded +to fill his mouth with handfuls of flour, cheese, and butter. This led +the Tibetans to suspect that we must be starving, and with their usual +shrewdness they determined to take advantage of our condition.</p> + +<p>"The Tarjum," said the oldest of the messengers, "wishes you to come +back and be his guest. He will feed you and your men, and you will then +go back to your country."</p> + +<p>"Thank you," I replied; "we do not want the Tarjum's food, nor do we +wish to go back. I am greatly obliged for his kindness, but we will +continue our journey."</p> + +<p>"Then," angrily said a young and powerful Tibetan, "if you continue your +journey, we will take back our gifts."</p> + +<p>"And your <i>kata</i>!" I rejoined, flinging first the large ball of butter +into his chest, and after it the small bags of flour, <i>tsamba</i>, cheese, +fruit, etc., a minute earlier prettily laid out before us.</p> + +<p>This unexpected bombardment quite upset the Tibetans, who, with powdered +coats, hair, and faces, scampered away as best they could. Chanden Sing, +always as quick as lightning when it was a case of hitting, pounded away +with the butt of his rifle at the roundest part of one ambassador's +body, when in his clumsy clothes he attempted to get up and run.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mansing, the philosopher of our party, interrupted in his feed, but +undisturbed by what was going on, picked up the fruit and cheese and +pieces of butter scattered all over the ground, mumbling that it was a +shame to throw away good food in such a reckless fashion.</p> + +<p>The soldiers, who had been watching attentively from a distance the +different phases of the interview, considered it prudent to beat a hasty +retreat. Mounting their steeds with unmistakable despatch, they galloped +in confusion down the hill, and then along the valley of the river, +until they were lost to sight in the mist. The ambassadors, who had been +unable to rejoin their ponies, followed on foot as quickly as possible +under the circumstances, with due allowance for the rarefied air and +rough ground.</p> + +<p>Their cries of distress, caused by fear alone, for we had done them no +real harm, served to strengthen the contempt in which my men by now held +the Tibetan soldiers and their officers.</p> + +<p>The scene was truly comical. We laughed heartily.</p> + +<p>When the Tibetans were out of sight, Chanden Sing and I pocketed our +pride and helped Mansing to collect the dried dates, apricots, the +pieces of <i>chura</i>, butter, and <i>guram</i>. Then, having loaded our yaks, we +marched on.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<h3>FOLLOWED BY TIBETAN SOLDIERS</h3> + + +<p>We were not in luck. The weather continued squally in the morning, and +in the afternoon the rain was again torrential. We went over +uninteresting and monotonous gray country. A chain of snowy peaks +stretched from south-west to north-east. We waded through a fairly deep +and cold river, and afterward climbed over a pass 17,450 feet high. A +number of Tibetans with flocks of several thousand sheep came in sight, +but we avoided them. They did not see us.</p> + +<p>At the point where we crossed it, the main stream described a graceful +bend. We climbed over undulating and barren country to an elevation of +17,550 feet, where we found several small lakelets. Having marched that +day fourteen and a half miles in a drenching rain, we descended into a +large valley. Here we had great difficulty in finding a spot where to +rest for the night. The plain was simply a swamp, with several lakes and +ponds, and we sank everywhere in mud and water. All our bedding and +clothes were soaked to such an extent that it really made no difference +where we halted, so we pitched our little tent on the bank of a stream +intersecting a valley to the north. Extending in an easterly direction +along the valley rose a series of mountains shaped like pyramids, +covered with snow and all of almost equal height. To the south were +high peaks with great quantities of snow upon them. The valley in which +we camped was at an elevation of 17,450 feet. The cold was intense.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-08.jpg" width="600" height="351" alt="fig8" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">TORRENTIAL RAIN</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p> + +<p>At night the rain came down in bucketfuls, and our <i>tente d'abri</i> gave +us but little shelter. We were lying in water. All the trenches in the +world could not have kept the water from streaming into our tent. In +fact, it is no exaggeration to say that the whole valley was a sheet of +water varying from one to several inches deep. Of course, we suffered +intensely from cold, the thermometer dropping to 26° at 8 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when a +south-east wind began to blow furiously. Rain fell, mixed with sleet, +for a time, and was followed by a heavy snow-storm. We lay crouched up +on the top of our baggage, so as not to lie on the frozen water. When we +woke in the morning our tent had half collapsed, owing to the weight of +snow upon it. During the day the temperature went up and rain fell +afresh, so that when we resumed our marching we sank in a mixture of +mud, snow, and water several inches deep. We had to cross three rivers +and to skirt five lakes of various sizes.</p> + +<p>Seven miles of this dreary marching saw us encamped (17,380 feet) at the +foot of a conical hill 17,500 feet high, where an almost identical +repetition of the previous night's experience took place. The +thermometer was down at 32°, but fortunately the wind subsided at eight +o'clock in the evening. As luck would have it, the sun came out the +following day, and we were able to spread out all our things to dry. We +had yet another novel experience.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span></p> + +<p>Our two yaks had disappeared. I climbed up to the summit of the hill +above camp, and with my telescope scoured the plain. The two animals +were some distance off, being led away by ten or twelve men on +horseback, who drove in front of them a flock of about five hundred +sheep. By their clothing I recognized the strangers to be robbers. +Naturally I started at once to recover my property, leaving Chanden Sing +and Mansing in charge of our camp. I caught them up as they were +marching slowly, though, when they perceived me, they hastened on, +trying to get away. I shouted three times to them to stop, but they paid +no heed to my words. I unslung my rifle, and would have fired at them +had the threat alone not been sufficient to make them reflect. They +halted. When I got near enough I claimed my two yaks back. They refused +to give them up. They said they were twelve men, and were not afraid of +one. Dismounted from their ponies, they seemed ready to attack me.</p> + +<p>As I saw them take out flint and steel in order to light the fusees of +their matchlocks, I thought I might as well have my innings first. +Before they could guess my intention, I applied a violent blow with the +muzzle of my rifle on the stomach of the man nearest to me. He +collapsed, while I administered another blow in the right temple of +another man who held his matchlock between his legs, and was on the +point of striking his flint and steel in order to set the tinder on +fire. He, too, staggered and fell clumsily.</p> + +<p>"<i>Chakzal, chakzal! Chakzal wortzié!</i>" (We salute you, we salute you! + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> + +Please listen!) exclaimed a third brigand, with an expression of dismay, +and holding up his thumbs with his fist closed in sign of surrender.</p> + +<p>"<i>Chakzal!</i>" (I salute you!) I replied, inserting a cartridge into the +Mannlicher rifle.</p> + +<p>"<i>Middù, middù!</i>" (No, no!) they entreated, promptly laying down their +weapons.</p> + +<p>I purchased from these men about thirty pounds of <i>tsamba</i> and eight +pounds of butter. I got one of them to carry the stuff to my camp, while +I, without further trouble, recovered my yaks and drove them back to +where Chanden Sing and Mansing were busy lighting a fire to make some +tea.</p> + +<p>Toward noon, when our things had got almost dry in the warm sun, the sky +became clouded, and again it began to rain heavily. I was rather +doubtful as to whether I should go over a pass some miles off to the +east, or should follow the course of the river and skirt the foot of the +mountains. We saw a large number of Tibetans travelling in the opposite +direction to ours. They all seemed terrified when we approached them. We +obtained from them a few more pounds of food, but they refused to sell +us any sheep, of which they had thousands. I decided to attempt the +first-mentioned route. Making our way first over a continuation of the +flat plateau, then over undulating ground, we came to two lakelets at +the foot of the pass before us. The ascent was comparatively easy, over +snow. We followed the river, which descended from the pass. About +half-way up, on looking back, we saw eight soldiers galloping toward us. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> + +We waited for them. As soon as they came up to us they went through the +usual servile salutations, depositing their weapons on the ground to +show that they had no intention of fighting. A long, amiable +conversation followed, the Tibetans professing their friendship for us +and their willingness to help us to get on in any way they could. This +was rather too good to be true. I suspected treachery, all the more so +when they pressed and entreated us to go back to their tents, where they +wished to entertain us as their highly honored guests. They would shower +upon us all the luxuries that human mind could conceive. These luxuries +were found to consist of presents of <i>chura</i>, cheese, butter, yak milk, +and <i>tsamba</i>. They said they would sell us ponies if we required them. +The description was too glowing. Taking all things into consideration, +and allowing for the inaccuracy of speech of Tibetans in general, I +thanked them from the bottom of my heart, and answered that I preferred +to continue my journey and bear my present sufferings.</p> + +<p>They perceived that I was not easy to catch. If anything, they respected +me for it. In fact, they could not conceal their amazement at my having +got so far into their country with only two men. After giving my +visitors some little presents, we parted in a friendly manner.</p> + +<p>We climbed up to the pass (18,480 feet). Before us, on the other side, +some two thousand feet lower, was a large stretch of flat land. I could +see a lake, which I took to be the Gunkyo. To make certain of it, I left +my men and yaks on the pass and went to reconnoitre from a peak 19,000 + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> + +feet high north-east of us. There was much snow. The ascent was +difficult and tedious. When I got to the top another high peak barred +the view in front of me, so, descending first and then ascending again, +I climbed this second summit, finally reaching an elevation of 20,000 +feet, and obtaining a good bird's-eye view of the country all round. +There was a long snowy range to the north, and directly under it what I +imagined to be a stretch of water, judging from the mist and clouds +forming directly above it and from the grass on the lower slopes of the +mountains.</p> + +<p>A hill range stood in my way, just high enough to conceal the lake +behind it. I rejoined my men. Sinking in deep, soft snow, we continued +our march down the other side of the pass. We pitched our tent at a +place about five hundred feet higher than the plain below us, where the +mountain sides were close together and formed a gorge. Notwithstanding +that I was now quite accustomed to great elevations, the ascent to +20,000 feet had caused a certain exhaustion, and I should have been glad +of a good night's rest.</p> + +<p>Mansing and Chanden Sing, having eaten some food, slept soundly, but I +felt depressed. I had a peculiar sense of unrest and a presentiment that +some misfortune would come to us during the night.</p> + +<p>We were all three under our little tent when I fancied there was some +one outside. I did not know why the thought entered my head, for I heard +no noise, but all the same I felt I must see for myself and satisfy my +curiosity. I peeped out of the tent with my rifle in hand, and saw a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> + +number of black figures cautiously crawling toward us. In a moment I was +outside on my bare feet, running toward them and shouting at the top of +my voice, "<i>Pila tedan tedang!</i>" (Look out, look out!) which caused a +stampede among our ghost-like visitors. There were, apparently, many of +them hidden behind rocks, for when the panic seized them the number of +runaways was double or even treble that of the phantoms I had at first +seen approaching. At one moment there seemed to be black ghosts +springing out from everywhere, only, more solid than ghosts, they made a +loud noise with their heavy boots as they ran in confusion down the +steep incline and through the gorge. They turned sharply round the hill +at the bottom and disappeared.</p> + +<p>When I crawled inside the tent again Chanden Sing and Mansing, wrapped +head and all in their blankets, were still snoring!</p> + +<p>Naturally I passed a sleepless night after that, fearing the unwelcome +visitors might return. We speculated as to how the Tibetans had found +us, and we could not help surmising that our friends of the previous +afternoon must have put them on our track. However, such was the +inconceivable cowardice shown on every occasion by the Tibetans, that we +got to attach no importance to these incidents. Indeed, the natives did +not inspire us with fear. Their visits had even ceased to excite or +interest us.</p> + +<p>We went on as usual, descending to the plain. When we had got half-way +across it I scoured the hills all round with my telescope to see if I +could discern traces of our pursuers.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span></p> + +<p>"There they are!" cried Chanden Sing, who had the most wonderful +eyesight of any man I have known. He pointed at the summit of a hill +where, among the rocks, several heads could be seen peeping. We went on +without taking notice of them. Then they came out of their hiding-place, +and we saw them descending the hill in a long line, leading their +ponies. On reaching the plain they mounted their steeds and came full +gallop our way. They were quite a picturesque sight in their dark-red +coats, or brown and yellow skin robes and their vari-colored caps. Some +wore bright-red coats with gold braiding, and Chinese caps. These were +officers. The soldiers' matchlocks, to the props of which red or white +flags were attached, gave an additional touch of color to the otherwise +dreary scenery of barren hills and snow. The tinkling of the horse-bells +enlivened the monotony of these silent, inhospitable regions. The +Tibetans dismounted some three hundred yards from us. One old man, +throwing aside his matchlock and sword, walked unsteadily toward us. We +received him kindly. He afforded us great amusement, for he was a +strange character.</p> + +<p>"I am only a messenger," he hastened to state, "and therefore do not +pour your anger upon me if I speak to you. I only convey the words of my +officers, who do not dare to come for fear of being injured. News has +been received at Lhassa, from whence we have come, that a <i>Plenki</i> (an +Englishman) with many men is in Tibet, and can be found nowhere. We have +been sent to capture him. Are you one of his advance-guard?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span></p> + +<p>"No," I replied, dryly. "I suppose that you have taken several months to +come from Lhassa," I added, pretending ignorance.</p> + +<p>"Oh no! Our ponies are good," he answered, "and we have come quickly."</p> + +<p>"<i>Chik, ni, sum, shi, nga, do, diu, ghieh, gu, chu, chuck chick, chuck +ni</i>," the Tibetan counted up to twelve, frowning and keeping his head +inclined to the right, as if to collect his thoughts, at the same time +holding up his hand, with the thumb folded against the palm, and turning +down a finger as he called each number. The thumbs are never used in +counting. "<i>Lum chuck ni niman</i>" (Twelve days), said he, "have we been +on the road. We have orders not to return till we have captured the +<i>Plenki</i>. And you," asked he, inquisitively—"how long have you taken to +come from Ladak?"</p> + +<p>He said he could see by my face that I was a native of Kashmere. I was +probably so burnt and dirty that it was hard to distinguish me from a +native. The old man cross-examined me to find out whether I was a native +surveyor sent by the Indian Government to survey the country, and asked +me why I had discarded my native clothes for <i>Plenki</i> (European) ones. +He over and over again inquired whether I was not one of the <i>Plenki's</i> +party.</p> + +<p>"<i>Keran ga naddo ung?</i>" (Where are you going?) he queried.</p> + +<p>"<i>Nhgarang ne koroun Lama jehlhuong</i>" (I am a pilgrim, going to visit +monasteries).</p> + +<p>"<i>Keran mi japodu</i>" (You are a good man).</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span></p> + +<p>He offered to show me the way to the Gunkyo Lake, and was so pressing +that I accepted. When I saw the two hundred soldiers mount and follow +us, I remonstrated with him, saying that if we were to be friends we did +not need an army to escort us.</p> + +<p>"If you are our friend, you can come alone, and we will not injure you," +I gave him to understand. "But if you are our enemy, we will fight you +and your army here at once, and we will save you the trouble of coming +any farther."</p> + +<p>The Tibetan, confused and hesitating, went to confabulate with his men, +and returned some time after with eight of them, while the bulk of his +force galloped away in the opposite direction.</p> + +<p>We went across the plain until we came to a hill range, which we crossed +over a pass 17,450 feet high. Then, altering our course, we descended +and ascended several hills, and at last found ourselves in the sheltered +grassy valley of the large Gunkyo Lake, extending from south-east to +north-west. With a temperature of 68° Fahrenheit the water in the +hypsometrical apparatus boiled at 183° 3-1/2' at 8.30 in the evening. +The lake was of extraordinary beauty, with the high snowy Gangri +mountains rising almost sheer from its waters. On the southern side +lofty hills formed a background wild and picturesque, but barren and +desolate beyond words. At the other end of the lake, to the north-west, +were lower mountains skirting the water.</p> + +<p>We encamped at 16,455 feet. The Tibetan soldiers pitched their tent some +fifty yards away.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span></p> + +<p>During the evening the Tibetans came to my camp and made themselves +useful. They helped us to get fuel, and brewed tea for me in Tibetan +fashion. They professed to hate the Lamas, the rulers of the country, to +whom they took special pleasure in applying names hardly repeatable in +these pages. According to them, the Lamas took all the money that came +into the country, and no one else was allowed to have any. They were +unscrupulous, cruel, and unjust. Every man in Tibet, they said, was a +soldier in case of necessity, and every one a servant of the Lamas. The +soldiers of the regular army received a quantity of <i>tsamba</i>, bricks of +tea and butter, but no money. Usually they were provided with ponies to +ride. When travelling on duty they had a right to obtain relays of +animals at post-stations and villages, and they were also entitled to +claim supplies of food, saddles, or anything else they required, to +carry them as far as the next encampment. The weapons (sword and +matchlock) generally belonged to the men themselves, but occasionally, +in the larger towns, such as Lhassa and Sigatz, the Lamas provided them. +Gunpowder and bullets were supplied by the authorities. The weapons were +manufactured mostly in Lhassa and Sigatz. Although the Tibetans boasted +of great accuracy in shooting with their matchlocks, which had wooden +rests in order to allow the marksman to take a steady aim, I never saw +even the champion shots of the country hit the mark. For sporting +purposes and for economy's sake, the Tibetan soldiers hardly ever used +lead bullets or shot, but preferred to fill the barrels of their +matchlocks with pebbles. Gunpowder was so scarce that they seldom + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> + +practised firing at a target.</p> + +<p>At sunrise the view of Gunkyo was magnificent, with the snow-covered +mountains tinted gold and red, and reflected in their smallest detail in +the still waters of the lake.</p> + +<p>We loaded our yaks, the Tibetans giving us a helping hand, and started +toward the Maium Pass, following a river which throws itself into the +Gunkyo Lake.</p> + +<p>The valley was narrow, and with many sharp turns. Although the elevation +was great, there was abundance of grass. The green was quite refreshing +to the eyes, tired as we were of snow and reddish barren mountains and +desert-like stretches of land. We came to a basin where, on the opposite +bank of the stream, was a large Tibetan camping-ground with a high wall +of stones. Behind it I could see smoke rising, which made me suspect +that there were people concealed.</p> + +<p>Our Tibetan friends asked what were our intentions, and begged me to +stop to talk and drink tea. I said I had had quite enough of both, and +would proceed.</p> + +<p>"If you go on we will kill you!" shouted one soldier, getting into a +temper, and taking advantage of our politeness toward him and his +companions.</p> + +<p>"<i>Nga samgi ganta indah</i>" (If you please), I answered, with studied +courtesy.</p> + +<p>"If you go another step we will cut off your head, or you will have to +cut off ours!" cried two or three others, stretching their bare necks +toward me.</p> + +<p>"<i>Taptih middù</i>" (I have not got a small knife), I replied, quite + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> + +seriously, and with assumed disappointment, twirling my hand in the air +in Tibetan fashion.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans did not know what to make of me. When I moved toward the +pass, on which hundreds of flying-prayers flapped in the wind, I +politely bade them good-bye with tongue out, and waving both my hands, +palms upward, in front of my forehead in the most approved Tibetan +style. The soldiers took off their caps and humbly saluted us by going +down on their knees and putting their heads close to the ground.</p> + +<p>We crossed the plain, and slowly wended our way up the pass. Near the +top we came to a track, the highway from Ladak to Lhassa <i>via</i> Gartok, +along the northern side of the Rakastal, Mansarowar, and Gunkyo lakes. +On the pass itself were planted several poles connected by ropes, from +which flying-prayers waved gayly in the breeze. <i>Obos</i>, or mounds of +stones, had been erected. The slabs used in the construction of these +<i>obos</i> were mostly white, and bore in many instances the inscription +"<i>Omne mani padme hun</i>." Yak, goat, and sheep skulls were laid by the +side of the <i>obos</i>, the above four words being engraved on the bone, and +stained red with the blood of the animals killed.</p> + +<p>Sacrifices are offered by Tibetans when crossing a high pass, especially +if there is a Lama close at hand to commemorate the event. The meat of +the animal killed is eaten by the people present. If the party is a +large one, dancing and singing follow the feast. <i>Obos</i> are found all +over the country, generally on passes or summits of hills. No Tibetan +ever goes by one of these <i>obos</i> without depositing on it a white +stone.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<h3>FIRST WHITE MAN IN THE SACRED PROVINCE</h3> + + +<p>The Maium Pass (17,500 feet), as far as which no white man had ever +penetrated, is a great landmark in Tibet. Not only does one of the +sources of the great Tsangpu, or Brahmaputra River, rise on its +south-east slopes, but it also separates the immense provinces of +Nari-Khorsum (extending west of the Maium Pass and comprising the +mountainous and lake region as far as Ladak) from the Yutzang, the +central province of Tibet, stretching east of the pass along the valley +of the Brahmaputra and having Lhassa for its capital. The word <i>yu</i> in +Tibetan means "middle." It is applied to this province because it +occupies the centre of Tibet. To the north of the Maium lies the Doktol +province.</p> + +<p>I had taken a reconnoitring trip to another pass to the north-east of +us, and had just returned to my men on the Maium Pass, when several of +the Tibetan soldiers we had left behind rode up toward us. We waited for +them. Their leader, pointing at the valley beyond the pass, cried: "That +yonder is the Lhassa territory, and we forbid you to enter it!"</p> + +<p>I took no notice of his protest, and driving before me the two yaks, I +stepped into the most sacred of all the sacred provinces—"the ground of +God," as they call it.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span></p> + +<p>We descended quickly on the eastern side of the pass, while the +soldiers, aghast, remained watching us. They were a picturesque sight as +they stood among the <i>obos</i> against the sky-line, the sunlight shining +on their jewelled swords and the gay red flags of their matchlocks. +Above their heads strings of flying-prayers waved in the wind. Having +watched us for a little while, they disappeared.</p> + +<p>A little rivulet, hardly six inches wide, descended among stones in the +centre of the valley we were following, and was soon swollen by other +rivulets from melting snows of the mountains on either side. This was +one source<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> of the great Brahmaputra, one of the largest rivers in the +world. I must confess that I felt somewhat proud to be the first white +man who had ever reached these sources, and there was a certain childish +delight in standing over this sacred stream, which, of such immense +width lower down, could here be spanned by a man standing with legs +slightly apart. We drank of its waters at the spot where it had its +birth, and then, following a marked track to the south-east, we +continued our descent on a gentle incline along a grassy valley.</p> + +<p>The change in the climate between the west and south-east sides of the +Maium Pass was extraordinary. On the western side we had nothing but +violent storms of hail, rain, and snow, the dampness in the air +rendering the atmosphere cold even during the day. The soil was +unusually marshy, and little fuel or grass could be found. The moment +the pass was crossed we were in a mild, pleasant climate, with a lovely + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> + +deep-blue sky over us. We found plenty of grass for our yaks and low +shrubs for our fires. After all our sufferings and privations, we felt +that we had indeed entered the land of God. I expected great trouble +sooner or later, but I was not sorry I had disobeyed the soldiers' +orders and had marched straight into the most forbidden province of the +forbidden land.</p> + +<p>There is always satisfaction in doing what is forbidden.</p> + +<p>The Brahmaputra received three small snow-fed tributaries descending +from the steep mountains on either side of us. Where the main stream +turned sharply south, a fourth and important tributary, carrying a large +volume of water, came down through a gorge from the north-north-east.</p> + +<p>We encamped near the junction of these rivers, on the right bank of the +main stream, at an elevation of 16,620 feet. From the Maium Pass a +continuation of the Gangri chain of mountains stretched first in a +south-easterly direction, then due east, in a line almost parallel to +the higher southern range of the Himahlyas. Between these two ranges was +an extensive plain intersected by the Brahmaputra. On the southern side +of the river were minor hill ranges between the river course and the big +range of majestic snowy peaks. Although no peaks of considerable +elevation were to be found along the range north of the Brahmaputra, yet +it was of geographical importance, as its southern slopes formed the +northern watershed of the holy river as far as Lhassa.</p> + +<p>The valley enclosed between these two parallel ranges was the most +thickly populated part of Tibet. Grass was abundant, and fuel easily + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> + +obtainable. Thousands of yaks, sheep, and goats could be seen grazing +near the many Tibetan camps along the Brahmaputra and its principal +tributaries. The trade route of caravans from Ladak to Lhassa followed +this valley. As I had come to Tibet to see and study the Tibetans, I +thought that, although I might run greater risks, I could in no part of +the country accomplish my object better than by going along this thickly +populated track.</p> + +<p>We slept little. We expected the soldiers to attack us during the night +to try and stop our progress, but all was quiet and nothing happened. +Our yaks got loose, and we had difficulty in recovering them in the +morning. They had swum across the stream, and had gone about a mile on +the other side.</p> + +<p>The night had been very cold, the thermometer dropping as low as +32-1/2°. We did not pitch our little tent, as we wanted to be ready in +case of attack. We were tired and cold after the long march of the +previous day. There was a south-westerly breeze blowing. It was hard +work to have to cross the river, chase the yaks and bring them back to +camp; then, exhausted as we were, to get the loads on them.</p> + +<p>We followed the stream on the right bank. It wound in and out between +barren hills, afterward flowing through a grassy valley three-quarters +of a mile wide and a mile and a half long. It then went through a narrow +passage and farther through an undulating grassy valley two miles wide. +We were caught in a terrific thunder-storm, with hail and rain. This was +an annoying experience. We were now before a large tributary of the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> + +Brahmaputra. The stream was so swollen, rapid, and deep that I was much +puzzled as to how I could take my men across. They could not swim, and +the water was so cold that a plunge in it would give a severe shock. +There was no time to be lost. The river was visibly rising, and as the +storm was getting worse, difficulties would increase every moment. We +took off our clothes and fastened them, with our rifles, etc., on the +pack-saddles of the yaks, which we sent into the water. These animals +were good swimmers. The current carried them more than a hundred yards +down-stream, but to our satisfaction they scrambled out of the water on +to the opposite bank. Notwithstanding the faith that Chanden Sing and +Mansing had in my swimming, they really thought their last hour had come +when I took each by the hand and led them into the stream. We had hardly +gone twelve yards, with water up to our necks, when the inevitable took +place. We were all three swept away. Chanden Sing and Mansing, in their +panic, clung tight to my arms and dragged me under water. I swam my +hardest with my legs. We came to the surface several times and then sank +again, owing to the dead weight of my helpless companions. At last, +after a desperate struggle, the current washed us on the opposite bank, +where we hastily scrambled out of the treacherous river. We were some +two hundred yards down-stream from the spot at which we had entered the +river, and such was the quantity of muddy water we had swallowed that we +all three became sick. This left us much exhausted. As the storm showed + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> + +no signs of abating, we encamped, at an elevation of 16,320 feet, there +and then on the left bank of the stream. Though we sadly needed warm +food, there was no possibility of lighting a fire in such torrential +rain. A piece of chocolate was all I ate that night. My men preferred to +eat nothing rather than break their caste by eating food prepared by +European hands.</p> + +<p>We were asleep under our little tent, the hour being about eleven, when +there was a noise outside as of voices and people stumbling against +stones. I was out in a moment with my rifle, and shouted the usual +"<i>Paladò!</i>" (Go away!) I could see nothing, owing to the darkness, but +several stones flung from slings whizzed past me. One of these hit the +tent. A dog barked furiously. I fired a shot, which had the good effect +of producing a hasty retreat of our enemies. The dog remained barking +all night. In the morning, when I gave him food and caressed him in +Tibetan fashion, with the usual words of endearment, "<i>Chochu, chochu</i>," +he rubbed himself against my legs as if he had known me all his life, +and eventually lay down by the side of Mansing, to whom he took a +particular fancy. From that day the dog never left our camp, and +followed us everywhere until harder times came upon us.</p> + +<p>The river was turning too much toward the south. I decided to abandon it +and strike across country, especially as there were faint signs of a +track leading over a pass to the east-south-east of our camp. I followed +this track. Along it I detected marks of hundreds of ponies' hoofs, now +almost entirely washed away. This was evidently the way taken by the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> + +soldiers we had met on the other side of the Maium Pass.</p> + +<p>Having risen over the pass, 17,750 feet high, we saw before us an +extensive valley with barren hills scattered upon it. To the south we +observed a large plain some ten miles wide, with snowy peaks rising on +the farther side. In front was a hill and a <i>mani</i> wall. This latter +discovery made me feel quite confident that I was on the highroad to +Lhassa. About eight miles off to the north-north-west were high snowy +peaks, and as we went farther we discovered a lofty mountain range, with +still higher peaks, three miles behind it. We had travelled half-way +across the waterless plain when we noticed a number of soldiers' heads +and matchlocks popping in and out from behind a distant hill. After a +while they came out in numbers to observe our movements, then retired +again behind the hill. We proceeded. When we were still half a mile from +them they abandoned their hiding-place and galloped away before us, +raising clouds of dust. From a hill 16,200 feet high, over which the +track crossed, we perceived a group of very high snowy peaks about eight +miles distant. Between them and us stood a range of hills cut by a +valley, along which flowed a river carrying a large volume of water. +This we followed, and crossed it at a suitable fording-place where the +stream was twenty-five yards across. The water reached up to our waists. +We found here another <i>mani</i> wall with large inscriptions on stones. As +the wind was high and cutting, we used the wall as a shelter for the +night. We could see in the distance the snowy Himahlyan chain. Lower + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> + +hill ranges were not more than three miles from camp. The river we had +just crossed flowed into the Brahmaputra. We were at an elevation of +15,700 feet. We saw plainly at sunset a number of black tents before us. +We counted about sixty, and we calculated them to be two miles distant. +Near them were hundreds of black yaks.</p> + +<p>At sunrise the next morning, much to our surprise, the tents and yaks +had vanished; nor, on marching in the direction where we had seen them +the previous night, were we able to find traces of them. It must have +been an effect of mirage. Some fourteen miles away, in a grassy plain at +the foot of the range extending from north-west to south-east, and with +lofty snowy peaks in a direction of 72° (bearings magnetic), we came +upon a very large Tibetan encampment of over eighty black tents. We were +then at an elevation of 15,650 feet. The tents were pitched on the banks +of another tributary of the Brahmaputra, which, after describing a wide +curve in the plain, passed west of the encampment. To the north-west, +north, and north-east stood the chain of mountains which I had observed +all along. The elevation of its peaks became gradually lower and lower, +so much so that the name of "hill range" would be more appropriate to it +than that of "mountain chain," that is to say, if the elevation of the +plateau on which it stood were not taken into account. Behind it, +however, towered loftier peaks with snowy caps.</p> + +<p>We needed food, and so made boldly for the encampment. Our approach +caused a commotion. Yaks and sheep were hastily driven away before us, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> + +while men and women rushed in and out of their tents, apparently in a +state of great excitement. Eight or ten men reluctantly came forward, +and entreated us to go inside a large tent. They said they wished to +speak to us, and offered us tea. I would not accept their invitation, +distrusting them, but went on across the encampment, halting some three +hundred yards beyond. Chanden Sing and I proceeded afterward on a round +of calls at all the tents, trying to purchase food, and also to show +that, if we had declined to enter a particular tent, it was not on +account of fear, but because we did not want to be caught in a trap. Our +visit to the different <i>golingchos</i> or <i>gurr</i> (tents) was interesting +enough. The tents themselves were cleverly constructed, and admirably +adapted to the country in which they were used. The tents, black in +color, were woven of yaks' hair, the natural greasiness of which made +the cloth quite waterproof. They consisted of two separate pieces of +thick material, supported by two poles at each end. There was an oblong +aperture above in the upper part of the tent, through which the smoke +escaped. The base of the larger tents was six-sided. The roof, at a +height of six or seven feet above the ground, was kept tightly stretched +by means of long ropes passing over high forked poles and the ends of +which were pegged to the ground. Many wooden and iron pegs were required +to keep the bottom of the tent close to the ground all round, so as to +protect its inmates from the cutting winds of the great plateau. Outside +each tent stood four long poles with white flying-prayers—one for each + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> + +point of the compass. Around the interior of the larger tents there was +a wall from two to three feet high for protection against the wind, +rain, and snow. These walls were constructed of dried dung, which, as +time went on, was used as fuel. There were two apertures, one at either +end of the tent. The one facing the wind was always kept closed by means +of loops and wooden bolts.</p> + +<p>The Tibetan is a born nomad, and shifts his dwelling with the seasons, +wherever he can find grazing for his yaks and sheep. He knows how to +make himself comfortable. For instance, in the centre of his tent he +makes himself a <i>goling</i>, or fireplace of mud and stone, some three feet +high, four or five feet long by one and a half wide, with two, three, or +more side ventilators and draught-holes. By this ingenious contrivance +he manages to increase the combustion of the dried dung, the most trying +fuel from which to get a flame. On the top of this stove a suitable +place is made to fit the several <i>raksangs</i> (large brass pots and +bowls), in which the brick tea, duly pounded first in a stone or wooden +mortar, is boiled and stirred with a long brass spoon. A portable iron +stand is generally to be seen somewhere in the tent, upon which the hot +vessels are placed when they are removed from the fire. Close to these +is the <i>toxzum</i> or <i>dongbo</i>, a cylindrical wooden churn, used for mixing +the tea with butter and salt.</p> + +<p>The wooden cups or bowls used by the Tibetans are called <i>puku</i>, +<i>fruh</i>, or <i>cariel</i>. In them <i>tsamba</i> is eaten after tea has been poured +on it, and the mixture worked into a paste by more or less dirty +fingers. Lumps of butter are mixed with this paste, and even bits of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> + +<i>chura</i> (cheese). The richer people (officials) indulge in flour and +rice, which they import from India and China, and in <i>kassur</i>, or dried +fruit (dates and apricots) of inferior quality. The rice is boiled into +a kind of soup called the <i>tupka</i>, a luxury only indulged in on grand +occasions, when such other cherished delicacies as <i>gimakara</i> (sugar) +and <i>shelkara</i> (lump white sugar) are also eaten. The Tibetans are fond +of meat, but few can afford to eat it. Wild game, yak, and sheep are +considered excellent food. The meat and bones are boiled in a cauldron +with lavish quantities of salt and pepper.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of this encampment were polite and talkative, but I was +suspicious of their friendliness. They refused to sell us food, on the +plea that they had none even for themselves.</p> + +<p>Women and men formed a ring round us. I was particularly struck, not +only in this encampment but in all others, by the small number of women +to be seen in Tibet. This is not because they are kept in seclusion. On +the contrary, the ladies of the Forbidden Land seem to have it all their +own way. They are actually in a minority, the proportion being, at a +rough guess, backed by the wise words of a friendly Lama, from fifteen +to twenty males to each female in the population. All the same, the fair +sex in Tibet manages to rule the male majority, playing constantly into +the hands of the Lamas.</p> + +<p>The Tibetan female, whether she be a lady, a shepherdess, or a +brigandess, cannot be said to be prepossessing. In fact, it was not my +luck to see a single good-looking woman in the country, although I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> + +naturally saw women who were less ugly than others. With the +accumulated filth that from birth is undisturbed by soap, scrubbing, or +bathing; with nose, cheeks, and forehead smeared with black ointment to +prevent the skin cracking in the wind; and with the unpleasant odor that +emanates from never-changed clothes, the Tibetan woman is, at her best, +repulsive to a European. After one has overcome one's first disgust, she +yet has, at a distance, a certain charm of her own. She walks well, for +she is accustomed to carry heavy weights on her head. Her skull would be +well-set upon her shoulders were it not that the neck is too short and +thick to be graceful. Her body and limbs possess great muscular +strength, and are well developed, but generally lack firmness. She is +heavily built, and inclined to stoutness.</p> + +<p>The Tibetan woman is superior to the Tibetan man. She possesses a better +heart, more pluck, and a finer character than he. Time after time, when +the men, timid beyond all conception, ran away at our approach, the +women remained in charge of the tents, and, although by no means cool or +collected, they rarely failed to meet us without some show of dignity.</p> + +<p>In the Tibetan encampment, when all were friendly, the women seemed less +shy than the men, and conversed freely and incessantly. They even +prevailed upon their masters to sell us a little <i>tsamba</i> and butter.</p> + +<p>When a Tibetan young man wishes to marry, he goes, accompanied by his +father and mother, to the tent of the lady of his heart. There he is +received by her relations, who have been previously notified of the +intended call, and are found seated on rugs and mats awaiting the +arrival of their guests.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-09.jpg" width="600" height="347" alt="fig9" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">TIBETAN WOMEN AND CHILDREN</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p> + +<p>After the usual courtesies and salutations, the young man's father asks, +on behalf of his son, for the young lady's hand. If the answer is +favorable, the suitor places a square lump of yak butter on his +betrothed's forehead. She does the same for him, and the marriage +ceremony is over, the buttered couple being man and wife.</p> + +<p>Where there is a temple close by, <i>katas</i>, food, and money are laid +before the images of Buddha and saints, and the parties walk round the +inside of the temple. Where there is no temple, the husband and wife +make the circuit of the nearest hill, or, in default of a hill, of a +tent, always moving from left to right. This ceremony is repeated with +prayers and sacrifices every day for a fortnight, during which time +libations of wine and general feasting continue. After that the husband +conveys his better half to his own tent.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> I visited the other source of the Brahmaputra River on the +return journey.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<h3>DISASTER AT THE RIVER</h3> + + +<p>Coming out of our tent in the morning, we noticed a commotion among the +Tibetans. A number of mounted men with matchlocks had arrived. Others +similarly armed joined them. They seemed excited. I kept my eye on them +while I was cooking my food. There were some two hundred men in all, +picturesquely garbed. They were good horsemen, and looked well as they +rode in a line toward us. A little way off they stopped and dismounted. +The leaders came forward, one stalwart fellow in a handsome sheepskin +coat marching ahead of the rest. His attitude was arrogant. Dispensing +with the usual salutations, he approached quite close, shaking his fist +at me.</p> + +<p>"<i>Kiu mahla lokhna nga rah luck tiba tangan</i>" (I will give you a goat or +a sheep if you will go back), he said.</p> + +<p>"<i>Kiu donna nga di tangon!</i>" (And I give you this to make you go back!) +was my quick answer, while I unexpectedly administered him one straight +from the shoulder that sent him sprawling on the ground.</p> + +<p>The army, which, with its usual prudence, was watching events from a +respectful distance, beat a hasty retreat. The officer scrambled away, +screaming. The Tibetans had so far behaved with such contemptible + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> + +cowardice that we could hardly congratulate ourselves on such easy +successes. We began to feel that really we had no enemy at all before +us. We became even careless. We ate our food, and gave this affair but +little thought.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans did not trouble us again that day. Those who had not ridden +off retired timidly inside their black tents. Not a soul was to be seen +about in the encampment. I registered my daily observations, made a +sketch of one of the black tents, and wrote up my diary. Then we +continued our journey.</p> + +<p>Our progress was now comparatively easy, along a broad grassy plain. We +proceeded in a south-easterly direction, observing a high snowy peak at +20° (b.m.), and a low pass in the mountain range to our north-east. A +high range stood ahead of us in the far distance. At the foot of a +lonely hill we found an important <i>mani</i> wall of great length, with +numberless inscriptions of all ages and sizes on stones, pieces of bone, +skulls, and horns. Farther on, to the south, there were three small +hillocks and two larger ones. The soldiers we had routed at the +encampment had proceeded in the direction we were now following. We +were, in fact, treading all along on the footmarks of their ponies.</p> + +<p>We had to cross a river and a number of rivulets. So troublesome was it +each time to take off our shoes and clothes in order to wade through, +that we bundled up our clothes on the yaks, and travelled along for the +rest of the afternoon barefooted and with nothing on but a loincloth, in +the style adopted by fakirs.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> + +<p>The sun was extremely hot, the ground marshy, the air thick with huge +and troublesome mosquitoes. We were quickly covered from head to foot +with bites, which caused intense irritation. Halting on the right bank +of a large stream at 15,600 feet, we named this spot "Mosquito Camp." At +sunset swarms of mosquitoes made us very miserable, but fortunately the +moment the sun disappeared the thermometer fell to 33°, the mosquitoes +vanished, and we had a peaceful night.</p> + +<p>In the evening we saw a number of horsemen riding full speed on a course +about one mile south of ours. No doubt they were sent to keep the +authorities ahead informed of our movements.</p> + +<p>The next day the water of the stream was so clear that we could not +resist the temptation of having a good cleaning up, washing first our +clothes and spreading them to dry in the sun, then cleansing our faces +and bodies thoroughly with soap, a luxury unknown to us for ever so +long.</p> + +<p>While—for lack of towels—I was drying myself in the sun, I admired the +scenery around us. I registered at 211° (b.m.) a very high snowy peak, +and a lower one at 213° 30' forming part of a beautiful mountain chain. +There were mountains on every side of the plain. Another very high peak, +of which I had taken bearings on a previous occasion, was at 20° (b.m.). +A break occurred in the hill range to our north-east, showing a narrow +valley, beyond which were high snowy mountains. We made a long march +along the grassy plain, and encamped on the bank of the Brahmaputra, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> + +there a wide, deep, and rapid stream. We saw hundreds of <i>kiang</i> and +antelopes. Shortly before sunset I took a walk toward the hills to try +and bring back fresh meat to camp. I stalked a herd of antelopes. When +some five miles from camp I was benighted, and on my return in the +darkness had the greatest difficulty in finding my men. They had been +unable to light a fire, and as they had both gone fast asleep, I +received no answer to my calls. We had selected a sheltered hollow in +the ground for our camp, and as there were hundreds of similar +depressions everywhere round it, and no landmarks to guide me, it was +not easy to identify the exact place.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, at last, after I had shouted for some considerable time, +Chanden Sing heard me. By the sound of his voice, I found my way back. +In the morning we noticed a large encampment about a mile off, on the +opposite bank of the Brahmaputra. The stream was too rapid for us to +cross, or we might have gone over to try and obtain provisions from the +natives. Moreover, on further examination, we saw black tents in every +direction on our side of the water, and therefore there was no reason to +go to the extra trouble and danger of crossing the stream.</p> + +<p>Much to our delight, we succeeded in purchasing a goat from some passing +Tibetans, who drove before them a flock of several thousand. We could +not find sufficient dry fuel to make a fire, so we intrusted Mansing +with the animal as far as our next camp, where we proposed to indulge in +a feast.</p> + +<p>The Brahmaputra had here several ramifications, mostly ending in + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> + +lakelets, and rendering the plain a regular swamp. The larger arm of the +river was wide and deep, and we preferred following it to crossing it, +notwithstanding that we had to deviate somewhat from the course which +otherwise I should have followed. For several miles we sank in mud and +slush up to our knees, or waded through water. There were small patches +of soft earth with tufts of grass which rose above the water, but they +collapsed on our attempting to stand upon them.</p> + +<p>The whole of the northern part of the plain was extremely marshy. Our +yaks gave us no end of trouble. When they sank unexpectedly in soft +mud-holes, they became alarmed, and, in their struggle to save +themselves, once or twice shook off their pack-saddles and loads, which +we had not been able to fasten properly for want of proper ropes. +Chanden Sing and I managed to keep up with the restless animals. At +last, on nearing the hills, the ground showed undulations, and was +rather drier. We saw columns of smoke rising from near the foot of the +range to the north of us. We went on another two miles, exhausted and +dirty, our clothes, on which we had spent so much soap and time in +washing, filthy again with splashes of mud.</p> + +<p>"Where are Mansing and the goat?" I asked the Hindoo.</p> + +<p>"He remained behind at the beginning of the swamp. He was too exhausted +to drag along the goat you purchased."</p> + +<p>I was much concerned, on scouring from a hillock the country all round +with my telescope, to perceive no sign whatever of the poor fellow. I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> + +was angry with myself for not noticing his disappearance before. As +there were many Tibetans about the spot where he had remained, I feared +foul play on their part, and that he might have been overpowered. Again +I imagined that, weak as he was, he might have been sucked down in one +of the deeper mud-holes, without a chance of saving himself. I left +Chanden Sing to look after the yaks, and turned back in search of him. +As I hurried back mile after mile, struggling again half across the mud +swamp, and yet saw no trace of the poor coolie, I was almost giving up +my quest in despair, when my eye caught sight of something moving about +half a mile farther on. It was the goat, all alone. I made for it with a +sinking heart.</p> + +<p>It was only on getting quite close that I perceived the poor coolie, +quite insensible in a faint, lying flat and half sunk in the mud. +Fortunately he had taken the precaution of tying the rope to which the +goat was fastened tight round his arm. To it only was due my discovering +Mansing's whereabouts, not to speak of the rescue of our precious +acquisition. With some rubbing and shaking I brought the poor fellow +back to life, and helped him along until we rejoined Chanden Sing. Not +until the middle of the night did we reach Tarbar, a large Tibetan +encampment at the foot of the hill range.</p> + +<p>The alarm of our arrival, given first by scores of dogs barking at us, +then by one of the natives who had ventured peeping out of his tent to +find out the cause of the disturbance, created the usual panic in the +place.</p> + +<p>"<i>Gigri duk! gigri duk! Jogpa, Jogpa!</i>" (Danger! danger! Help, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> + +brigands, brigands!) cried the Tibetan, running frantically out of his +tent. A few seconds later black figures could be seen everywhere, +dashing in and out of their tents. It must be remembered that, according +to the manners of Tibet, one should time one's arrival at an encampment +so as to reach it before sundown, unless notice of one's approach is +sent ahead. People who arrive unexpectedly in the middle of the night +are never credited with good motives—nothing short of murder, robbery, +or extortion. I tried to set the minds of the Tibetans at ease by +telling them that I meant no harm, but such was their excitement and +fright that I could get no one to listen to me.</p> + +<p>Two old women came to us with a bucket of milk and laid it at my feet, +entreating me to spare their lives. Great was their astonishment when, +instead of finding themselves murdered, they received a silver rupee in +payment. This was the first step toward a peaceful settlement of the +disturbance. After some time calm was restored, and though still +regarded with suspicion, we were politely treated by the natives.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, here too we were unable to purchase provisions, the +natives declaring that they had not sufficient food for themselves. At +night the thermometer fell to 26°. We felt the cold intensely. We +purchased a quantity of dung from the natives and made a fire in the +morning. Having feasted on the goat, which we killed, and on yak's milk, +we made preparations to strike camp early next morning. Having had a +good meal after several days' privations, we felt happier than usual.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span></p> + +<p>On leaving Tarbar we followed for a while the course of the river. It +was a glorious day, and we were able to admire the magnificent panorama +of the great rugged mountain range to the south-west of us. The higher +peaks were nearly all shaped like pyramids. I observed a gigantic +quadrangular peak which I took to be Mount Everest. Next to it was +another pyramidical peak, also very lofty, but not so high and beautiful +as its neighbor. I followed a general course toward east-south-east. As +the river, which we had more or less followed, now described a big bend +toward the south-south-east, I decided to cross it. We waded through it +successfully with water up to our necks, and again we found ourselves +upon marshy land, with a repetition of the previous day's experience.</p> + +<p>Farther on we crossed three more tributaries of the larger stream, all +fairly wide and deep. Then we had once more to get across the main +river, there of considerable depth and swiftness. The river traversed +the plain in zigzag fashion, and, unless we wanted to follow its banks, +and so lengthen the journey by double or treble the distance, this was +the only course open to us. Thus, while trying to travel as much as +possible in a straight line, we found ourselves for the third time +before this great river, now swollen by other snow-fed streams, and +carrying an immense body of water. It was in the afternoon, too, when +the water was at its highest. We attempted a crossing at several points, +but found it impossible. I decided to wait for low water early next +morning.</p> + +<p>Apparently my yaks knew this part of the country well. I noticed that, +whenever I lost the track, all I had to do was to follow them, and they + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> + +would bring me back to it again. When I drove them away from the track, +they showed a great disinclination to move, whereas they proceeded +willingly enough while we were on the highway. No track was visible +except here and there, where the footmarks of the last nomads, with +their sheep, ponies, and yaks, had destroyed the grass.</p> + +<p>Half a mile on the other side of the river was an encampment of some +fifty or sixty tents, with hundreds of yaks and sheep grazing near it.</p> + +<p>At this point my two yaks, which I noticed had been marching with more +than usual smartness, bolted while I was ordering Chanden Sing and +Mansing to take down the loads, and went straight into the water.</p> + +<p>In attempting to make them turn back, Mansing threw a stone at them, +which, instead of having the desired effect, sent them on all the +faster. The current was strong, and the bottom of the river so soft that +they both sank. When they reappeared on the surface it was only to float +rapidly away down-stream. We watched them with ever-increasing anxiety. +They seemed quite helpless. We ran panting along the river-bank, urging +them on with shouts in order to drive them to the other side. In their +desperate struggle to keep afloat, and powerless against the current, +the two yaks collided violently in mid-stream. The bump caused the +pack-saddle and load of the smaller yak to turn over. The animal, thus +overbalanced and hampered, sank and reappeared two or three times, +struggling for air and life. It was, indeed, a terrible moment. In order +to save the load, I threw off my clothes and jumped into the water. I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> + +swam fast to the animal, and, with no small exertion, pulled him on +shore, some two hundred yards farther down-stream. We were both safe, +though breathless; but, alas! the ropes that held the baggage had given +way, and saddle and load had disappeared. This loss was a dreadful blow +to me. I tried hard, by repeatedly diving into the river until I was +almost frozen, to recover my goods, but failed to find them or even to +locate them. Where I suspected them to be the water was over twenty feet +deep. The bottom of the river was of soft mud, so that the weight alone +of the loads would cause them to sink and be covered over.</p> + +<p>Diving at such great elevations gave a peculiar and unpleasant +sensation. The moment I was entirely under water, I felt as if I were +compressed under an appalling weight which seemed to crush me. Had the +liquid above and around me been a mass of lead instead of water, it +could not have felt heavier. The sensation was especially noticeable in +my head, which felt as if my skull were being screwed inside a vise. The +beating in my temples was almost unbearable. Under ordinary +circumstances I can remain under water for over a minute, but at such +high elevations I could never hold out for longer than fifteen or twenty +seconds. Each time that I emerged from below, gasping for air, my heart +beat alarmingly violently, and my lungs seemed as if about to burst.</p> + +<p>I was so exhausted that I did not feel equal to conveying my two men +across. I unloaded the stronger yak, and then, with endless trouble, I +drove him and his mate again into the water. Unhampered, and good + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> + +swimmers as they are, the two yaks floated away with the current and +reached the other side. Chanden Sing and Mansing, with their clothes and +mine tied into a bundle over their shoulders, got on the animals, and, +after a somewhat anxious passage, arrived safely on my side. We +encamped. My men mourned all night over the lost property. The next +morning I made fresh and unsuccessful attempts to recover the loads. +Unhappily they contained all my tinned provisions, and what little other +food I had, 800 rupees in silver, the greater part of my ammunition, +changes of clothing, shoes, my hurricane lantern, and sundry knives, +razors, etc.</p> + +<p>The only thing we recovered was the wooden pack-saddle, which was washed +ashore some six hundred yards farther down.</p> + +<p>Our situation can be summed up in a few words. We were now in the centre +of Tibet, with no food of any kind, no clothes to speak of, and no boots +or shoes, except those we wore, which were falling to pieces. What +little ammunition I had left could not be relied upon, owing to its +having been in water on several occasions. Around us we had nothing but +enemies—insignificant enemies, if you like, yet enemies after all.</p> + +<p>I got some comfort in thinking that the water-tight cases with my +scientific instruments, notes, sketches, maps, and a quantity of gold +and silver money were saved. As far as I was concerned, I valued them +more than anything else I possessed.</p> + +<p>We went on, hungry, worn out, with our feet lacerated, cheering one +another as best we could. We laughed at our troubles. We laughed at the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> + +Tibetans and their comical ways. We laughed at everything and everybody, +until eventually we laughed at ourselves. But the days seemed long. +Though fasting gives you at first an acute pain in your inside, it does +not become unbearable until after several days' absolute want of food. +That is to say, if you are accustomed, as we were, to long intervals +between one meal and the next. When we got to our third day's fasting we +were keen enough for a meal. Perceiving black tents close to the +mountain-side, about four miles out of our course, we made for them with +famished haste. We purchased two bucketfuls of yak's milk, one of which +I drank there and then myself, the second being equally divided between +my two servants. That was all we could get. They would sell us nothing +else.</p> + +<p>After this we moved forward again, making steady, and, if one allows for +the great elevation, comparatively rapid progress. We held our own +against all comers. We encountered pleasant people and unpleasant ones, +but, whether their manner was courteous or the reverse, we could nowhere +obtain food for love or money.</p> + +<p>Poor Mansing and Chanden Sing, not having the same interest that I had +in my work to keep up their spirits, were now in a dreadful condition. +Cold, tired, and starved, the poor wretches had hardly strength left to +stand on their feet, the soles of which were badly cut and sore. It +really made my heart bleed to see these two brave men suffer as they did +for my sake. No word of complaint came from them; not once did their +lips utter a reproach.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Never mind if we suffer or even die," said the poor fellows, when I +expressed my sympathy with them, "we will follow you as long as we have +strength to move. We will stand by you, no matter what happens."</p> + +<p>I had to relieve Chanden Sing of his rifle, as he was no longer able to +carry it. I, too, felt languid as the days went by, and we got scarcely +any food. I cannot say that I experienced severe physical pain. This was +due, I think, to the fact that my exhaustion brought on fever. I had a +peculiar feeling in my head, as if my intellect, never too bright, had +now been altogether dulled. My hearing, too, became less acute. I felt +my strength slowly dying down like the flame of a lamp with no more oil +in it. The nervous excitement and strain alone kept me alive. I went on +walking mechanically.</p> + +<p>We reached an encampment of some eighty black tents and a mud +guard-house. We were positively in a starved condition. It was utterly +impossible to proceed farther, owing to the wretched condition of my two +men. They begged to be given ponies to ride. Their feet were so sore +that, notwithstanding their anxiety to follow me, they could no more.</p> + +<p>The natives received us kindly, and consented to sell me ponies, +clothes, and provisions. We encamped about two miles beyond the +settlement. During the evening several persons visited my tent, bringing +gifts of flour, butter, and <i>tsamba</i>, accompanied by <i>katas</i>, the veils +of friendship. I made a point of invariably giving the Tibetans, in +return for their gifts, silver money to an amount three or four times + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> + +the value of the articles they presented us with. They professed to be +very grateful. A man called Ando, who styled himself a Gourkha, but wore +the garb of the Tibetans, came to visit us in our tent, and promised to +bring several ponies for sale the next morning. He also undertook to +sell a sufficient quantity of food to enable us to reach Lhassa. To show +his good faith, he brought a portion of the supplies in the evening, and +said he would let us have the remainder the next morning.</p> + +<p>We next had a visit from a Lama, who appeared civil and intelligent. He +presented us with butter and <i>chura</i> (cheese). He had travelled as far +as Calcutta in India, and was then on his way from Gartok to Lhassa. +Having an excellent pony, he expected to arrive there in four or five +days. Other Lamas and men who came to see us stated that they had come +from Lhassa in four days.</p> + +<p>The natives, as usual, showed great reticence in giving us the name of +the encampment, some calling it Toxem, others Taddju. North of us was a +low pass in the hill range. As I had already seen as much as I wanted of +the Tibetans, it was my intention, if I succeeded in purchasing enough +provisions and ponies, to cross over this pass and proceed toward the +Sacred City, following a course on the northern side of the mountain +range. The highway to Lhassa was getting so thickly populated that I +thought it advisable in the future to travel through less inhabited +regions. I intended proceeding, dressed as a European, until within a +few miles of Lhassa. Then I would leave my two men concealed in some +secluded spot, and assuming a disguise, I would penetrate alone during +the night into the city. This would have been easy enough, as Lhassa + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> + +has no gates, and only a ruined wall round it.</p> + +<p>I was able to purchase some clothing and boots from the Tibetans. The +pigtail that I needed in order to pass for a Tibetan I could make with +the silky hair of my yaks. I would pretend to be deaf and dumb, as I +could not speak the Tibetan language perfectly enough to pass for a +native.</p> + +<p>A good meal brought hope and high spirits. When I retired to sleep I saw +myself already inside the Sacred City walls.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Religious fanatics.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<h3>CAPTURED</h3> + + +<p>In the night I heard noises several times. I went out of my tent to look +for the disturbers, but failed to discover any one. This had become my +nightly experience, and I attached little importance to these sounds.</p> + +<p>In the morning Ando and two or three Tibetans came to sell us provisions +and ponies. While my two servants and I were engaged in purchasing what +we required, I saw a number of villagers approaching in groups. Some +spun wool, others carried bags of <i>tsamba</i> and flour, while others led a +number of ponies. Having purchased provisions to last us a couple of +months, we began the selection of mounts. Naturally my servants and +myself were overjoyed at our unexpected luck, after sufferings and +privations of all kinds, in finding ourselves confronted with abundance +of everything we could possibly desire. Chanden Sing and Mansing, who +were sportsmen of the very first order, delighted at the prospect of +getting animals, rode first one pony and then another to suit +themselves. Chanden Sing, having selected a handsome beast, called me to +examine it before paying over the purchase-money. Unsuspecting of foul +play, and also because it would not have been convenient to try the +various lively ponies with my rifle slung over my shoulder, I walked + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span> + +unarmed to the spot, about a hundred yards away from my tent, where the +restless animal was being held for my inspection. The natives followed +behind me, but such a thing being common in any country when one buys a +horse in public, I thought nothing of it. As I stood with my hands +behind my back, I well recollect the expression of delight on Chanden +Sing's face when I approved of his choice. As is generally the case on +such occasions, the people collected in a crowd behind me expressed in a +chorus their gratuitous opinion on the superiority of the steed +selected. I had just stooped to examine the pony's fore legs when I was +suddenly seized from behind by several persons, who grabbed me by the +neck, wrists, and legs, and threw me down on my face. I struggled and +fought until I shook off some of my assailants and regained my feet; but +others rushed up, and I was surrounded by some thirty men, who attacked +me from every side. They clung to me with all their might, and succeeded +in grabbing again my arms, legs, and head. Exhausted as I was, they +knocked me down three more times, but each time I regained my feet. I +fought to the bitter end with my fists, feet, head, and teeth. Each time +I got one hand or leg free from their clutches, I hit right and left at +any part where I could disable my opponents. Their timidity, even when +in such overwhelming numbers, was indeed beyond description. It was +entirely due to it, and not to my strength, for I had hardly any left, +that I was able to hold my own against them for some twenty minutes. My +clothes were torn in the fight. Long ropes were thrown at me from every +side. I became so entangled in them that my movements were impeded. One +rope which they flung and successfully twisted round my neck completed +their victory. They pulled hard at it from the two ends, and while I +panted and gasped with the exertion of fighting, they tugged and tugged +in order to strangle me. I felt as if my eyes would shoot out of my +head. I was suffocating. My sight became dim. I was in their power. +Dragged down to the ground, they stamped, and kicked, and trampled upon +me with their heavy nailed boots until I was stunned. Then they tied my +wrists tightly behind my back; they bound my elbows, my chest, my neck, +and my ankles. I was a prisoner!</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-10.jpg" width="600" height="330" alt="fig10" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">PURCHASING PONIES</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span></p> + +<p>They lifted me and made me stand up. Brave Chanden Sing had been +struggling with all his might against fifteen or twenty foes, and had +disabled several of them. He had been pounced upon at the same moment +that I was, and had fought gallantly until, like myself, he had been +entangled, thrown down, and secured with ropes. During my struggle I +heard him call out repeatedly: "<i>Banduk, banduk, Mansing; jaldi, +banduk!</i>" (Rifle, rifle, Mansing; quick, my rifle!) but, alas, poor +Mansing the leper, the weak and jaded coolie, had been sprung upon by +four powerful Tibetans, who held him pinned to the ground as if he had +been the fiercest of bandits. Mansing was a philosopher. He had saved +himself the trouble of even offering a resistance; but he, too, was +ill-treated, beaten, and tightly bound. At the beginning of the fight a +shrill whistle had brought up four +hundred<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> +armed soldiers who had</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> + +lain in ambush round us, concealed behind the innumerable sand-hills +and in the depressions in the ground. They took up a position round us +and covered us with their matchlocks.</p> + +<p>All was now over, and, bound like a criminal, I looked round to see what +had become of my men. When I realized that it took the Tibetans five +hundred men,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> all counted, to arrest a starved Englishman and his two +half-dying servants, and that, even then, they dared not do it openly, +but had to resort to abject treachery; when I found that these soldiers +were picked troops from Lhassa and Sigatz (<i>Shigatze</i>), dispatched on +purpose to arrest our progress and capture us, I could not repress a +smile of contempt for those into whose hands we had at last fallen.</p> + +<p>My blood boiled when, upon the order of the Lama, who the previous night +had professed to be our friend, several men advanced and searched our +pockets. They rifled us of everything we possessed. Then they began +overhauling our baggage. The watches and chronometer were looked upon +with suspicion, their ticking causing curiosity and even anxiety. They +were passed round, and mercilessly thrown about from one person to the +other until they stopped ticking. They were then pronounced "dead." The +compasses and aneroids, which they could not distinguish from watches, +were soon thrown aside, as "they had no life in them." Great caution was +displayed in touching our rifles, which were lying on our bedding when +the tent had been torn down.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-11.jpg" width="277" height="600" alt="fig11" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">I WAS A PRISONER</p> + +<p>Fears were entertained lest the rifles should go off unexpectedly. It + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> + +was only on my assurance (which made our captors ten times more +cautious) that they were not loaded, that at last they took them and +registered them in the catalogue of our confiscated property. I had upon +me a gold ring that my mother had given me when I was a child. I asked +permission to retain it. With their superstitious nature they +immediately thought that it had occult powers, like the wands one reads +of in fairy tales.</p> + +<p>A man called Nerba, who later on played an important part in our +sufferings, was intrusted with the ring, and was warned never to let me +see it again. It was heartbreaking, as we three prisoners sat bound and +held down by guards, to see the Lamas and officers handle all our things +so roughly that they spoiled nearly all they touched. Particularly +disgusting was their avidity when, in searching the pockets of the coat +I wore daily, and which I had not put on that morning, they found a +quantity of silver coins, some eight hundred rupees in all. Officers, +Lamas, and soldiers made a grab for the money, and when order was +re-established only a few coins remained where the sum had been laid +down. Other moneys which they found in one of my loads met with a +similar fate. Among the things arousing the greatest curiosity was an +india-rubber pillow fully blown out. The soft, smooth texture of the +india-rubber seemed to take their fancy. One after the other they rubbed +their cheeks on the cushion, exclaiming at the pleasant sensation it +gave them. In playing with the brass screw by which the cushion was +inflated, they gave it a turn, and the imprisoned air found its way out +with a hissing noise. This created quite a panic among the Tibetans. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> + +Their superstitious minds regarded this hissing as an evil omen. +Naturally I took advantage of any small incident of this kind to work +judiciously on their superstitions and to frighten the natives as much +as I could.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans, having examined all except my water-tight cases of +instruments, photographic plates, and sketches, seemed so upset at one +or two things that happened, and at some remarks I made, that they +hurriedly sealed up my property, which they had placed in bags and +wrapped in blankets. They ordered the things to be placed on yaks and +brought into the guard-house of the settlement. This done, they tied the +end of the ropes that bound our necks to the pommels of their saddles, +and, having loosed our feet, they sprang on their ponies and rode off, +with shouts, hisses, and cries of victory, firing their matchlocks in +the air, and dragging us prisoners into the settlement.</p> + +<p>On reaching the settlement, my last words to my men before we were +separated were: "No matter what they do to you, do not let them see that +you suffer." They promised to obey me. We were conveyed to different +tents.</p> + +<p>I was dragged to one of the larger tents, inside and outside of which +soldiers were placed on guard. They were at first sulky, and rough in +their manner and speech. I always made a point of answering them in a +collected and polite fashion. I had on many previous occasions noticed +that nothing carries one further in dealings with Asiatics than to keep +calm and cool. I felt confident that if we were ever to get out of our +present scrape, it would be by maintaining a perfectly impassive +demeanor in face of anything that might happen.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-12.jpg" width="600" height="357" alt="fig12" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">DRAGGED INTO THE SETTLEMENT</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span></p> + +<p>The tent being kept closed, I was unable to see what was taking place +outside, but I could hear the noise of people rushing here and there. +Orders were shouted, and the continuous tinkling of the soldiers' +horse-bells as they galloped past the tent made me conclude that the +place must be in a state of turmoil. I had been some three hours in the +tent when a soldier entered and ordered me out.</p> + +<p>"They are going to cut off his head," said he to his comrades. Turning +round to me, he made a significant gesture with his hand across his +neck.</p> + +<p>"<i>Nikutza</i>" (All right), said I, dryly.</p> + +<p>It must not be forgotten that, when a Tibetan hears words to that +effect, he usually goes down on his knees and begs for mercy with tears, +and sobs, and prayers in profusion. So it is not surprising that the +Tibetans were somewhat astonished at my answer. They seemed puzzled as +to what to make of it. I was led out with more reluctance than firmness.</p> + +<p>During the time I had been shut up a huge white tent with blue ornaments +had been pitched in front of the mud house. Round it were hundreds of +soldiers and villagers—a most picturesque sight.</p> + +<p>As I was led nearer I perceived that the front of the tent was wide +open. Inside stood a great number of red Lamas, with shaven heads, and +long woollen tunics. The soldiers stopped me when I was about twenty + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> + +yards from the tent. Additional ropes were added to those already +cutting into my wrists, elbows, and chest, and the others were made +tighter. I perceived Chanden Sing led forward. Instead of taking me +before the Lamas, they pushed me to the back of the mud house to prevent +my seeing the scene that followed. I heard Chanden Sing being +interrogated in a loud, angry tone of voice, and accused of having been +my guide. Next I heard wild shouts from the crowd, then a dead silence. +A few instants later I was horrified. I listened—yes, it was the +snapping noise of a lash, followed by hoarse moans from my poor servant, +to whom they were evidently applying it.</p> + +<p>I counted the strokes, the sickening noise of which is still well +impressed on my memory, as they regularly and steadily fell one after +the other, to twenty, to thirty, forty, and fifty. Then there was a +pause.</p> + +<p>A number of soldiers now came for me. I was first led, then pushed +violently before the tribunal.</p> + +<p>On a high seat in the centre of the tent sat a man wearing ample +trousers of gaudy yellow and a short yellow coat with flowing sleeves. +On his head he had a huge four-pointed hat, gilt all over, and with +three great eyes painted on it. He was young-looking. His head was clean +shaven, as he was a Lama of the highest order, a Grand Lama and a +<i>Pombo</i>, or Governor of the province, with powers equivalent to those of +a feudal king. On his right stood a stout, powerful red Lama who held a +huge double-handed sword. Behind him, and at the sides, were a number of +other Lamas, officers and soldiers. As I stood silent, and held my head + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> + +high before him, two or three Lamas rushed at me and ordered me to +kneel. They tried to compel me to do so by forcing me on my knees, but I +succeeded in remaining standing.</p> + +<p>The Pombo, who was furious at my declining to kneel before him, +addressed me in words that sounded violent; but, as he spoke classical +Tibetan, and I only the colloquial language, I could not understand a +word he said. I meekly asked him not to use such fine words, as they +were unintelligible to me.</p> + +<p>The great man was taken aback at this request. With a frown on his face, +he pointed to me to look to my left. The soldiers and Lamas drew aside, +and I beheld Chanden Sing lying flat on his face, stripped from the +waist down, in front of a row of Lamas and military men. Two powerful +Lamas, one on each side of him, began again to chastise him with knotted +leather thongs weighted with lead, laying on their strokes with vigorous +arms from his waist to his feet. He was bleeding all over. Each time +that a lash fell on his wounded skin, so great was my sorrow that it +gave me a pain more intense than if a dagger were stuck into my chest, +but I never betrayed my feelings. I knew Orientals too well to show any +pity for the man, as this would only have involved a more severe +punishment for him. So I looked on at his torture as one would upon a +thing of every-day occurrence. The Lamas near me shook their fists under +my nose, and explained that my turn would come next. I smiled and +repeated the usual "<i>Nikutza, nikutza</i>" (Very good, very good).</p> + +<p>The Pombo and his officers were puzzled. I could see it plainly by their +faces.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Pombo, an effeminate, juvenile, handsome person, almost hysterical +in manner, seemed a splendid subject for hypnotic experiments. I had a +good reason to think this. As we shall see later, he had already often +been under mesmeric influence. He remained with his eyes fixed upon +mine, as if in a trance, for certainly over two minutes.</p> + +<p>There was a wonderful and sudden change in the man. His voice, arrogant +and angry a few moments before, was now soft and apparently kindly. The +Lamas around him were evidently concerned at seeing their lord and +master transformed from a foaming fury into the quietest of lambs. They +seized me and brought me out of his sight to the spot where Chanden Sing +was being chastised. Here again I could not be compelled to kneel, so at +last I was allowed to squat down before the Pombo's officers.</p> + +<p>Two Lamas produced my note-books and maps, and proceeded to question me +closely, saying that, if I spoke the truth, I should be spared; +otherwise I should be flogged and then beheaded.</p> + +<p>I answered that I would speak the truth, whether they punished me or +not.</p> + +<p>Dressed in a gaudy red silk coat, with gold embroidery at the collar, +one of the Lamas, a great big brute who had taken part in the flogging +of Chanden Sing, told me I must say "that my servant had shown me the +road across Tibet, and that he had drawn the maps and sketches." If I +stated this, they were willing to release me and have me conveyed back +to the frontier, promising to do me no further harm. They would cut my + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> + +servant's head off, that was all, but no personal injury would be +inflicted on me.</p> + +<p>I explained clearly to the Lamas that I alone was responsible for the +maps and sketches, and for finding my way so far into the Forbidden +Land. I repeated several times, slowly and distinctly, that my servant +was innocent, and that therefore there was no reason to punish him. He +had only obeyed my orders in following me to Tibet, and I alone, not my +two servants, was to be punished if anybody was punishable.</p> + +<p>The Lamas were angry at this. One of them struck me violently on the +head with the butt-end of his riding-crop. I pretended not to notice it, +though it made my scalp ache to quite an appreciable extent.</p> + +<p>"Then we shall beat you and your man until you say what we want!" the +Lama exclaimed, angrily.</p> + +<p>"You can beat us if you like," I replied, with assurance, "but if you +punish us unjustly it will go against yourselves. You can tear our skin +off, you can make us bleed to death, but you cannot make us feel pain."</p> + +<p>Ando, the traitor, who spoke Hindustani fluently, acted as interpreter +whenever there was a hitch in our conversation. With what I knew of the +Tibetan language, and with this man's help, everything was explained as +clearly as possible to the Tibetans. Notwithstanding this, they +continued to lash mercilessly my poor servant. In his agony he was +biting the ground as each blow fell on him tearing away patches of skin +and flesh. Chanden Sing behaved heroically. Not a word of complaint nor +a prayer for mercy came from his lips. He said that he had spoken the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> + +truth, and had nothing more to say. Watched intently by all the Lamas +and soldiers, I sat with affected calm before this scene of cruelty, +until, angry at my indifference, order was given to the soldiers that I +should be dragged away. Again they led me behind the mud house, from +where I could distinctly hear the angry cries of the Lamas +cross-examining Chanden Sing and those dreadful sounds of the lash still +being administered on my poor servant.</p> + +<p>It began to rain heavily. This was lucky for us, for in Tibet, as in +China, a shower has a great effect upon the people. Even massacres have +been known to be postponed until the rain stopped.</p> + +<p>Such was the case that day. The moment the first drops fell, the +soldiers and Lamas rushed here, there, and everywhere inside the tents. +I was hastily dragged to the most distant tent of the settlement, which +became packed with the soldiers in whose charge I had been given.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-13.jpg" width="600" height="337" alt="fig13" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">CHANDEN SING BEING FLOGGED</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> The Lamas stated afterward that this was the number.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Counting Lamas, villagers, and soldiers.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<h3>THREATS OF DEATH</h3> + + +<p>An officer of high rank was sitting cross-legged at the farther end of +the tent. He wore a handsome dark-red tunic trimmed with gold and +leopard skin, and was shod in tall black-and-red leather boots of +Chinese shape. A beautiful sword with a solid silver sheath inlaid with +large pieces of coral and malachite was passed through his belt.</p> + +<p>This man, apparently between fifty and sixty years of age, had an +intelligent, refined, honest, good-natured face. I felt that he would be +a friend. Indeed, whereas the soldiers and Lamas treated me with +brutality and were indescribably mean, this officer alone showed some +civility to me. He made room by his side, and asked me to sit there.</p> + +<p>"I am a soldier," said he, in a dignified tone, "not a Lama. I have come +from Lhassa with my men to arrest you. You are now our prisoner. You +have shown no fear, and I respect you."</p> + +<p>So saying, he inclined his head and laid his forehead touching mine, and +put out his tongue. Then he made a gesture which meant that, though he +wished to say more, he could not, owing to the presence of the soldiers.</p> + +<p>Later on we entered into a friendly conversation, in the course of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> + +which he said he was a Rupun (a rank below a general). I tried to +explain to him all about English soldiers and weapons. He displayed the +keenest interest in all I told him. In return he gave me interesting +information about the soldiers of Tibet. Every man in Tibet is +considered a soldier in time of war or when required to do duty. For the +regular army all lads strong and healthy can enlist from the age of +seventeen. Good horsemanship is one of the qualities most appreciated in +the Tibetan soldier, and, after that, unbounded obedience. The Rupun +swore by Tibetan matchlocks, which he believed to be the most +serviceable weapons on earth. According to him, as long as you had +powder enough, you could use anything as a projectile. Pebbles, earth, +or nails did as good work as any lead bullet.</p> + +<p>He told me that large quantities of these weapons were manufactured at +Lhassa and Sigatz (<i>Shigatze</i>). The majority of Tibetan men outside the +towns possessed matchlocks. Gunpowder was made in the country with +saltpetre and sulphur.</p> + +<p>The Rupun, seeing how quick I was at picking up Tibetan words, took a +special delight in teaching me, as one would a child, the names of the +several grades in the Tibetan army. The <i>Tchu-pun</i> was the lowest grade, +and only had ten men under him; then came the <i>Kiatsamba-pun</i> or +<i>Kia-pun</i>, or officer in command of one hundred soldiers; and the +<i>Tung-pun</i>, or head of one thousand. These officers, however, were +seldom allowed the full number of soldiers. Often the "commander of one +thousand" had only under him three or four hundred men at the most. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> + +Above the <i>Tung-pun</i> came the <i>Rupun</i>, a kind of adjutant-general; then +the <i>Dah-pun</i>, or great officer; and highest of all, the <i>Mag-pun</i> (or +<i>Mag-bun</i>, as it is usually pronounced), the general-in-chief.</p> + +<p>The acquaintance of one of these generals I had already made at Gyanema. +Though my informant said that officers were elected for their bravery in +war and for their strength and aptitude in the saddle and with their +weapons, I knew well enough that such was not the case. The posts were +mainly given to whoever could afford to pay for them, among men of +families under special protection of the Lamas. In many cases they were +actually sold by auction.</p> + +<p>The Rupun had a keen sense of humor. I told him how fast the Tibetan +soldiers had run away on previous occasions when I had met them and had +my rifle with me. He was quite equal to the situation, and exclaimed: +"Yes, I know that they ran, but it was not through fear. It was because +they did not wish to hurt you." Upon which I answered that, if that were +the case, they need not have run so fast.</p> + +<p>The Rupun was amused, and laughed at my sarcasm. He patted me on the +back, and said I was right. He professed to be grieved to see me tied +up. He had received strict orders not to give me food or unloose my +bonds.</p> + +<p>The soldiers, who had been harsh and rough, listened open-mouthed to the +friendly talk between the Rupun and myself, a practice not common in +Tibet between captor and prisoner. Following their chief's example + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> + +they, too, became quite kind and respectful. They placed a cushion under +me and tried to make me a little more comfortable.</p> + +<p>Toward the evening the Rupun was summoned before the Pombo. The guard +was relieved by a fresh lot of men. This was a change for the worse. The +new-comers were extremely rough. They dragged me away from the dignified +seat I had occupied in the place of honor in the tent, and knocked me +violently down on a heap of dung which was there to be used as fuel.</p> + +<p>"That is the place for <i>Plenkis!</i>" shouted one of the men, "not in the +best part of the tent."</p> + +<p>They pounced upon me, and though I made no resistance whatever, they +again tied my feet together. An additional rope was fastened round my +knees. The ends of these ropes were left long, and each was given in +charge of a soldier.</p> + +<p>No part of a Tibetan tent was ever clean. The spot where I was to rest +for the night was the dirtiest. Bound so tightly that the ropes cut +grooves in my flesh, it was out of the question to sleep. Worse than +this was the disgusting fact that I soon got covered with vermin, which +swarmed in the tent. From this time till the end of my captivity, or +twenty-five days later, I suffered unspeakable tortures from this pest. +The soldiers, with their swords drawn, were all round me inside the +tent. More soldiers were posted outside.</p> + +<p>The night was full of strange events. Shouts could be heard at intervals +from a distance outside, and were answered by some one of the guard + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> + +inside the tent. They were to keep the men awake and make sure that I +was still there.</p> + +<p>In the middle of the night the Rupun returned. I noticed that he seemed +much upset. He sat by my side. By the light of the flickering fire and a +wick burning in a brass bowl filled with butter, I could see on his face +an expression of great anxiety. I felt, by the kind way in which he +looked at me, that he had grave news to give me. I was not mistaken. He +moved me from the dirty place where I had been thrown down helpless by +the soldiers, and laid me in a more comfortable and cleaner part of the +tent. Then he ordered a soldier to bring me a blanket. Next, to my +astonishment, he became very severe, and said he must examine my bonds. +He turned quite angry, scolding the soldiers for leaving me so +insecurely tied, and proceeded to make the knots firmer, a thing which I +felt was impossible. Though he pretended to use all his strength in +doing this, I found, much to my amazement, that my bonds were really +becoming loosened. He then quickly covered me up with the heavy blanket.</p> + +<p>The soldiers were at the other end of the large tent arguing loudly over +some paltry matter. The Rupun, stooping low, and making pretence to tuck +in the blanket, whispered:</p> + +<p>"Your head is to be cut off to-morrow. Escape to-night. There are no +soldiers outside."</p> + +<p>The good man was actually preparing everything for my flight. He put out +the light, and came to sleep by my side. It would have been +comparatively easy, when all the men had fallen asleep, to slip from + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> + +under the tent and steal away. I had got my hands easily out of the +ropes, and should have had no difficulty in undoing all my other bonds; +but the thought that I should be leaving my two men at the mercy of the +Tibetans prevented my carrying the escape into effect. The Rupun, having +risen to see that the guard were asleep, lay down again close to me and +murmured:</p> + +<p>"<i>Nelon, nelon; paladò</i>" (They are asleep; go).</p> + +<p>Well meant and tempting as the offer was, I told him I must stay with my +men.</p> + +<p>Having my hands free, I managed to sleep a little during the night. When +morning came I slipped my hands again inside the ropes, as I feared they +might accuse the Rupun of unloosing my hands, and he might be punished +on my account.</p> + +<p>The Rupun, who seemed much disappointed, tied the ropes round my wrists +firmly again. Though he appeared vexed at my not availing myself of the +chance of flight he had given me, he treated me with ever-increasing +respect and deference. He even produced his wooden bowl, which he filled +with steaming tea from the <i>raksang</i>, and lifted it up to my mouth for +me to drink.</p> + +<p>On perceiving how thirsty and hungry I was, not only did this good man +refill the cup time after time until my thirst was quenched, but he +mixed with it <i>tsamba</i> and lumps of butter, which he then stuffed into +my mouth with his fingers.</p> + +<p>It was really touching to see how, moved to kindness, the soldiers +imitated his example, and, one after the other, produced handfuls of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> + +<i>tsamba</i> and <i>chura</i>, and deposited them in my mouth. Their hands were +not over-clean, but on such occasions it does not do to be too +particular. I was so hungry that the food they gave me seemed delicious. +I had been for two nights and one day without food, and, what with the +exertion of the fight and my various exciting experiences during that +time, my appetite was very keen.</p> + +<p>The great politeness and consideration with which not only the Rupun, +but even the soldiers, now treated me made me suspect that my end was +near. I was grieved not to be able to obtain news of Chanden Sing and +Mansing. The soldiers' reticence in answering questions regarding them +made me fear that something terrible had happened. Nevertheless, though +my jailers were friendly, I did not betray anxiety, but pretended to +take all that came as a matter of course. I spent the first portion of +the day in a lively conversation with the soldiers, partly to divert my +thoughts and partly to improve my knowledge of Tibetan.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<h3>A TERRIBLE RIDE</h3> + + +<p>Early in the afternoon a soldier entered the tent, and striking me on +the shoulder with his heavy hand, shouted:</p> + +<p>"<i>Ohe!</i>" (This is a Tibetan exclamation always used by the rougher +classes when beginning a conversation. It corresponds to "Look here.")</p> + +<p>"<i>Ohe!</i>" repeated he; "before the sun goes down you will be flogged, +both your legs will be broken,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> they will burn out your eyes, and +then they will cut off your head!"</p> + +<p>The man, who seemed quite in earnest, accompanied each sentence with an +appropriate gesture to illustrate his words. I laughed at him and +affected to treat the whole thing as a joke, partly because I thought +this was the best way to frighten them, and partly because the programme +thus laid before me seemed so extensive that I thought it could only be +intended to intimidate me.</p> + +<p>The words of the soldier cast a gloom over my friendly guard in the +tent. When I tried to cheer them up, they answered bluntly that I would +not laugh for very long. Something was certainly happening. The men +rushed in and out of the tent and whispered among themselves. When I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> + +spoke to them they would answer no more, and on my insisting to receive +an answer they made signs that their lips must from now be closed.</p> + +<p>About half an hour later another person, in a great state of excitement, +rushed into the tent and signalled to my guards to lead me out. This +they did, after making my bonds tighter than ever, and placing extra +ropes round my chest and arms. In this fashion I was marched off to the +mud house and led into one of the rooms. A large number of soldiers and +villagers assembled outside. After we had waited some time, Mansing, +tightly bound, was brought into the same room. My pleasure at seeing my +man again was so great that I paid no attention to the insults of the +mob peeping through the door. After a while a Lama came in with a +smiling face, and said he had good news to give me.</p> + +<p>"We have ponies here," he said, "and we are going to take you back to +the frontier, but the Pombo wishes to see you first to-day. Do not make +a resistance. Let us exchange the ropes round your wrists for these iron +handcuffs."</p> + +<p>Here he produced a heavy pair of manacles which he had kept concealed +under his coat.</p> + +<p>"You will not wear them for more than a few moments, while we are +leading you to his presence. Then you will be free. We swear to you by +the Sun and Kunjuk-Sum that we will treat you kindly."</p> + +<p>I promised not to resist, chiefly because I had no chance of doing so. +For greater safety they tied my legs and placed a sliding knot round my +neck; then I was carried out into the open, where a ring of soldiers + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> + +with drawn swords stood round me. They made me lay flat on my face on +the ground, and held me down firmly while they unwound the ropes from +around my wrists. The iron fetters, joined by a heavy chain, were +substituted for them. They took some time in fastening the clumsy +padlock, after which, all being ready, they unbound my legs.</p> + +<p>When I stood up again, and knowing that I could not possibly get my +hands free, they began to load me with insults, not directed to me as an +individual, but as a <i>Plenki</i> (an Englishman). They spat upon me and +threw mud at me. The Lamas behaved worse than any of the others. The one +who had sworn that I should in no way be ill-used if I submitted quietly +to be handcuffed was the most prominent among my tormentors and the +keenest in urging the crowd on to further brutality.</p> + +<p>Suddenly the attention of the crowd was drawn to the approach of the +Rupun with a number of soldiers and officers. He seemed depressed. His +face was of a ghastly yellowish tint. He kept his eyes fixed on the +ground. Speaking in a low tone of voice, he ordered that I should again +be conveyed inside the mud house.</p> + +<p>A few moments later he came in and closed the door after him, having +first cleared the room of all the people who were in it. Tibetan +structures of this kind have a square aperture in the ceiling by which +they are ventilated and lighted.</p> + +<p>The Rupun laid his forehead upon mine in sign of compassion, and then +sadly shook his head.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span></p> + +<p>"There is no more hope," he whispered; "your head will be cut off +to-night. The Lamas are bad. My heart is aching. You are like my +brother, and I am grieved...."</p> + +<p>The good old man tried not to let me see his emotion, and made signs +that he could stay no longer, lest he should be accused of being my +friend.</p> + +<p>The mob again entered the room. I was once more dragged out into the +open by the Lamas and soldiers. Some discussion followed as to who +should keep the key of my handcuffs, and eventually it was handed over +to one of the officers, who mounted his pony and rode away at a great +speed in the direction of Lhassa.</p> + +<p>Just then I heard the voice of Chanden Sing calling to me in a weak, +agonized tone:</p> + +<p>"<i>Hazur, hazur, hum murgiaega!</i>" (Sir, sir, I am dying!) Turning my head +in the direction from which these painful sounds came, I perceived my +faithful servant with his hands bound behind his back, dragging himself +on his stomach toward the door of one of the other rooms of the mud +house. His poor face was hardly recognizable, it bore the traces of such +awful suffering.</p> + +<p>I could stand no more. Pushing my guards aside with my shoulders, I +endeavored to get to the poor wretch, and had nearly reached him when +soldiers sprang upon me, grappled me, and lifting me bodily off my feet, +threw me on the back of a pony.</p> + +<p>I now feared the worst. I tried to encourage my brave servant by +shouting to him that I was being taken to Taklakot, and that he would be +brought after me the following day. He had exhausted his last atom of + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> + +strength in creeping to the door. He was roughly seized, and brutally +hurled back into the room of the mud house, so that we could not +exchange a word more. Mansing, the coolie, was placed, with his arms +pinioned, on a bare-back pony.</p> + +<p>The saddle of the pony I had been thrown upon is worthy of description. +It was in reality the wooden frame of a very high-backed saddle, like a +Mexican saddle. From the highest point of the back five or six sharp +iron spikes stuck out horizontally. As I sat on this implement of +torture, I was not actually sitting on the spikes, but the spikes caught +me in the back just below the waist.</p> + +<p>My guard having been augmented by twenty or thirty mounted men with +muskets and swords, we set off at a furious pace. A horseman riding in +front of me led my pony by means of a cord, as my hands were manacled +behind my back. Thus we travelled across country for many miles.</p> + +<p>Except for those awful spikes in the saddle, the ride would not have +been so bad. The pony I rode was a spirited animal, and the country +around was curious and interesting. We proceeded along a succession of +yellow sand-hills, some of them as high as two or three hundred feet, +others not more than twenty or thirty feet. The sand seemed to have been +deposited more by wind than water, though it is also possible that the +whole basin, not very high above the level of the huge stream, may at +some time have been altogether under water. The whole space between the +mountain range to the north of the Brahmaputra and the river itself was + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> + +covered with these sand-mounds, except in certain places where the soil +was extremely marshy. Here our ponies sank in deep, soft mud. We +splashed across several rivulets and skirted a number of ponds. From the +summit of a hill on which they led me, I could see that the hills were +of much greater circumference and height near the river, becoming +smaller and smaller as they approached the mountain range to the north. +They increased in number and size the farther we went in an easterly +direction.</p> + +<p>The circumstances under which I was now travelling did not permit me to +make accurate investigations as to where the sand came from. A mere +glance at the country all round made me feel sure that the sand had been +conveyed from the south. This could be plainly seen from depressions and +wave-like undulations, showing that it had travelled (roughly) in a +northerly direction. I was fairly convinced that the sand had been +deposited there by the wind, which had carried it from the plains of +India over the Himahlyan chain.</p> + +<p>My guard scoured the country from the high point of vantage on which we +had ascended. Away in the distance, to the east, we saw a large number +of horsemen raising clouds of dust. Riding down the hill, our ponies +sinking in soft sand, we set off in the direction of the new-comers, the +ground at the bottom of the hill being somewhat harder.</p> + +<p>We travelled mile after mile at an unpleasant pace, until we arrived at +a spot where, drawn up in a line, was the cavalcade we had seen from the +summit of the hill. It was a beautiful sight as we approached it, though + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> + +the pain which I was undergoing rather detracted from the pleasure I +should otherwise have taken in the picturesque scene. There were about a +hundred red Lamas in the centre, with bannermen whose heads were covered +by peculiar flat fluffy hats, and an equal number of soldiers and +officers in their gray, red, and black tunics—some two hundred horsemen +in all.</p> + +<p>The Pombo, in his yellow coat and trousers and his queer pointed hat, +sat on a magnificent pony in front of the crowd of Lamas and soldiers.</p> + +<p>Curiously enough, when close to this new crowd, the horseman who led my +pony let go the rope, and the pony was lashed cruelly and left to run +wildly. The soldiers of my guard reined up and drew aside. The pony +dashed off in the direction of the Pombo, and, as I passed close to him, +a man whose name I learned afterward was Nerba (a private secretary of +the Tokchim Tarjum) knelt down, and, taking aim with his matchlock +resting on its prop, deliberately fired a shot at me.</p> + +<p>Although Nerba was considered one of the champion shots of the country, +and the distance from the muzzle of his matchlock to me was not more +than four yards, the bullet missed me, whizzing past my left ear. +Probably the speed at which my animal was proceeding saved me, as the +marksman could not take a steady aim. My pony, startled at the sudden +report of the matchlock at such close quarters, took fright, and began +rearing and plunging. I managed to maintain my seat, though the spikes +in the saddle were lacerating terribly the lower part of my spine.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span></p> + +<p>Several horsemen now rode up and captured my pony. Preparations were +made for another exciting number in the programme of my tortures. In a +way these Lamas possessed a sporting nature, but I swore to myself that, +no matter what they did to me, I would not give them the satisfaction of +seeing that they were hurting me. Acting on this principle, I pretended +not to feel the effect of the spikes tearing the flesh off my backbone. +When they led me before the Pombo to show him how covered with blood I +was, I expressed satisfaction at riding such an excellent pony. This +seemed to puzzle him.</p> + +<p>A cord of yak-hair, about forty or fifty yards long, was now produced. +The swivel attached to one end was fastened to my handcuffs, and the +other end was held by a horseman. We set off again on our wild career, +this time followed not only by the guard, but by the Pombo and all his +men. Once or twice I could not help turning round to look at them. The +cavalcade was a weird and picturesque sight, the riders with their +many-colored dresses, their matchlocks with red flags, their jewelled +swords, their banners with long ribbons of all colors flying in the +wind—all galloping furiously, shouting, yelling, and hissing, amid a +deafening din of thousands of horse-bells.</p> + +<p>In order to quicken our speed, a horseman rode by my side lashing my +pony to make it go its hardest. Meanwhile the horseman who held the cord +did his utmost to pull me off the saddle, no doubt in the hope of seeing +me trampled to death by the cavalcade behind me. As I leaned my body +forward so as to maintain my seat, and with my arms pulled violently + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> + +backward by the rope, the flesh on my hands and knuckles was rubbed off +down to the bone by the chain of the handcuffs. Every tug brought me +into forcible contact with the spikes and inflicted deep wounds. The +cord eventually and unexpectedly gave way. The soldier who was pulling +at the other end was clumsily unhorsed, and I myself was all but thrown +by the unexpected jerk. This amusing incident at first provoked mirth +among my escort, a mirth which their superstitious minds immediately +turned into an ill omen.</p> + +<p>When my pony was stopped, as well as the runaway steed of the dismounted +cavalier, I took advantage of their fears, and assured them once more +that whatever harm they tried to do me would go against themselves. +However, the cord was retied with sundry strong knots, and, after an +interruption of a few minutes, we resumed our breakneck gallop, I being +again sent in front.</p> + +<p>Toward the end of our journey we had to go round the curve of a +sand-hill, the track between this and a large pond at its foot being +very narrow. At this point I saw in front of me a soldier posted in +ambush, with his matchlock ready to fire. The pony sank deep in the +sand, and could not travel fast, which, I suppose, was the reason why +that spot had been selected. The man fired as I passed only a few paces +from him; but, as luck would have it, this second attempt also left me +untouched.</p> + +<p>Getting clear of the soft sand, and finding harder ground, we resumed +our headlong career. Several arrows were shot at me from behind. Some +passed very near, but not one struck me. Thus, after an interminable +ride full of incident and excitement, near sunset we arrived at our +destination.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-14.jpg" width="600" height="335" alt="fig14" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">THE RIDE ON A SPIKED SADDLE</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the crown of a hill stood a fortress and large Lamasery. At its foot, +in front of a large structure, the Pombo's gaudy tent had been pitched. +The name of this place, as far as I could afterward ascertain, was Namj +Laccé Galshio or Gyatsho.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> A form of torture which consists in placing the legs upon +two parallel logs of wood. They are then fractured by a heavy blow +struck with a mallet.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<h3>THE EXECUTIONER</h3> + + +<p>Two or three men tore me roughly off the saddle. The pain in my spine +caused by the spikes was intense. I asked for a moment's rest. My +captors refused to let me stop, and, roughly thrusting me forward, said +I would be beheaded in an instant. All the people round jeered and made +signs to me that my head would be cut off. Insults of all kinds were +showered upon me by the crowd of Lamas and soldiers. I was hustled to +the execution-ground, which lay to the left front of the tent. On the +ground was a long log of wood in the shape of a prism. Upon the sharp +edge of this I was made to stand. Several men held me by the body while +four or five others, using their combined strength, stretched my legs +wide apart. Fixed in this painful position, the Tibetans securely tied +my feet to the log of wood with cords of yak-hair. Several men were made +to pull these cords, and they were so tight that they cut into my skin +and flesh in several places round my ankles and on my feet. Many of the +cuts were as much as three inches long.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> + +<p>When I was thus firmly bound, the man Nerba, whom I have mentioned +before as having fired a shot at me, came forward, and then, going + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> + +behind me, seized me by the hair of my head. My hair was long, as it had +not been cut for more than five months.</p> + +<p>The sight before me was impressive. By the Pombo's tent stood in a row +the most villanous brutes I have ever set eyes upon. One, a powerful, +repulsive individual, held in his hand a great knobbed mallet used for +fracturing bones; another carried a bow and arrows; a third held a big +two-handed sword; others made a display of various ghastly instruments +of torture. The crowd, thirsting for my blood, formed up in a +semicircle, leaving room for me to see the parade of the torture +implements that awaited me. As my eyes roamed from one figure to the +other, the several Lamas shook their various implements to show that +they were preparing for action.</p> + +<p>A group of three Lamas stood at the entrance of the tent. They were the +musicians. One held a gigantic horn, which, when blown, emitted hoarse, +thundering sounds. His companions had one a drum, the other cymbals. +Another fellow some distance away continually sounded a huge gong. From +the moment I was made to dismount the deafening sounds of the diabolical +music echoed all through the valley, and added horror to the scene.</p> + +<p>An iron bar with a handle of wood bound in red cloth was being made +red-hot in a brazier. The Pombo, who had placed something in his mouth +in order to produce artificial foaming at the lips, and thus show his +fury, worked himself into a frenzy. A Lama handed him the implement of +torture (the <i>taram</i>), now red-hot. The Pombo seized it by the handle.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span></p> + +<p>"<i>Ngaghi kiu meh taxon!</i>" (We will burn out your eyes!) cried a chorus +of Lamas.</p> + +<p>The Pombo strode up to me, brandishing the ghastly implement. He seemed +reluctant, but the Lamas around him urged him on, lifting the man's arm +toward me.</p> + +<p>"You have come to this country to see" (alluding to what I had stated +the previous day—<i>viz.</i>, that I was a traveller and pilgrim, and had +only come to see the country). "This, then, is the punishment for you!" +and with these dreadful words the Pombo raised his arm and placed the +red-hot iron bar parallel to, and about an inch or two from, my +eyeballs, and all but touching my nose.</p> + +<p>Instinctively I kept my eyes closed, but the heat was so intense that it +seemed as if my eyes, the left one especially, were being desiccated and +my nose scorched.</p> + +<p>Though the time seemed interminable, I do not think that the heated bar +was before my eyes actually longer than thirty seconds or so. Yet it was +quite long enough, for, when I lifted my aching eyelids, I saw +everything as in a red mist. My left eye was frightfully painful, and +every few seconds it seemed as if something in front of it obscured its +vision. With the right eye I could still see fairly well, except that +everything, as I have said, looked red instead of its usual color. The +hot iron was then thrown down, and was frizzling on the wet ground a few +paces from me.</p> + +<p>My position was not enviable, as I stood with my legs wide apart, with +my back, hands, and legs bleeding, and my sight injured. This amid the +deafening, maddening noise of the gong, drum, cymbals, and horn; + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> + +insulted, spat upon by the crowd, and with Nerba holding me so tight by +my hair that he tore handfuls of it from my scalp. All I could do was to +remain calm and composed, and to await with apparent unconcern the +preparations for the next sufferings to be inflicted upon me.</p> + +<p>"<i>Miumta nani sehko!</i>" (Kill him with a rifle!) shouted a hoarse voice.</p> + +<p>A matchlock was now being loaded by a soldier, and such was the quantity +of gunpowder they placed in the barrel that +<a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a><a class="correction" href="#cn1" title="changed from 'I'">it</a> +made sure whoever fired it +would have his head blown off. It was with a certain amount of +satisfaction that I saw it handed over to the Pombo. That official +placed the side of the weapon against my forehead with the muzzle +pointing skyward. Then a soldier, leaning down, applied fire to the +fusee. Eventually there was a loud report, which gave my head a severe +shock. The overloaded matchlock flew clean out of the Pombo's hand, much +to everybody's surprise. I forced myself to laugh. The tantalizing +failure of every attempt they made to hurt me drove the crowd to the +highest pitch of fury.</p> + +<p>"<i>Ta kossaton, ta kossaton!</i>" (Kill him, kill him!) exclaimed fierce +voices all around me. "<i>Ngala mangbo shidak majidan!</i>" (We cannot +frighten him!) "<i>Ta kossaton, ta kossaton!</i>" (Kill him, kill him!) The +whole valley resounded with these ferocious cries.</p> + +<p>A huge two-handed sword was now handed to the Pombo, who drew it out of +its sheath.</p> + +<p>"Kill him, kill him!" shouted the mob once more, urging on the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> + +executioner, who seemed quite reluctant to come forward.</p> + +<p>I seized this moment to say that they might kill me if they wished, but +that, if I died to-day, they would all die to-morrow—an undeniable +fact, for we are all bound to die some day. This seemed to cool them for +a moment; but the excitement in the crowd was too great, and at last +they succeeded in working the Pombo into a passion. His face became +quite unrecognizable, such was his excitement. He behaved like a madman.</p> + +<p>At this point a Lama approached and slipped something into the mouth of +the executioner, who foamed at the lips. A Lama held his sword, while he +turned up one sleeve of his coat to have his arm free, and the Lamas +turned up the other for him. Then he strode toward me with slow, +ponderous steps, swinging the shiny, sharp blade from side to side, with +his bare arms outstretched.</p> + +<p>The man Nerba, who was still holding me by the hair, was told to make me +bend my neck. I resisted with what little strength I had left, +determined to keep my head erect and my forehead high. They might kill +me, true enough, they might hack me to pieces if they chose, but never +until I had lost my last atom of strength would these ruffians make me +stoop before them. I might perish, but it would be looking down upon the +Pombo and his countrymen.</p> + +<p>The executioner, now close to me, held the sword with his nervous hands, +lifting it high above his shoulder. He then brought it down to my neck, +which he touched with the blade, to measure the distance as it were, for +a clean, effective stroke. Then, drawing back a step, he quickly raised + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> + +the sword again and struck a blow at me with all his might. The sword +passed unpleasantly close to my neck under my chin, but did not touch +me. I did not flinch nor speak. My indifference impressed him almost to +the point of frightening him. He seemed disinclined to continue his +diabolical performance; but the impatience and turbulence of the crowd +were at their highest. The Lamas nearer him gesticulated like madmen and +urged him on again.</p> + +<p>Apparently against his will, the executioner went through the same +performance on the other side of my head. This time the blade passed so +near that the point cannot have been more than half an inch or so from +my neck.</p> + +<p>Everything pointed toward my end being near; but, strange to say, I had +a feeling all the time that something would happen and my life would be +spared. As the chances of escape, however, seemed very meagre, I felt +sorry that I should have to die without seeing my dear parents and +relatives again. They would probably never know where and how I had +died. After my trying experiences, sufferings, and excitement since +entering Tibet, I did not, perhaps, realize my peril so much as I should +have done had I, for instance, been dragged from my comfortable London +quarters direct on to the execution-ground.</p> + +<p>Naturally the scene was one that I am not likely to forget, and I must +say for the Tibetans that the whole affair was picturesquely carried +out. Even the ghastliest ceremonies may have their artistic side, and + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> + +this particular one, performed with extra pomp and flourish, was really +impressive.</p> + +<p>It appears that the unpleasant sword exercise is sometimes gone through +in Tibet previous to actually cutting off the head, so as to make the +victim suffer mentally as much as possible before the final blow is +given. It is also done in order to display the wonderful skill of the +executioner in handling the big sword. I was not aware of this at the +time, and only learned it some weeks after. It is usually at the third +stroke that the victim is actually beheaded.</p> + +<p>The Lamas were still clamoring for my head, but the Pombo made a firm +stand this time, and declined to go on with the execution. They +collected round him and seemed very angry. They shouted and yelled and +gesticulated in the wildest fashion, and still the Pombo kept his eyes +fixed upon me in a half-respectful, half-frightened manner, and refused +to move.</p> + +<p>An excited consultation followed, during which, in the midst of this +scene of barbarity, my coolie Mansing arrived. He had fallen off his +bare-back pony many times, and had been left far behind. The man who +held my hair now relinquished his grasp, while another pushed me +violently from in front, causing me to fall heavily backward, and +putting a painful strain on all the tendons of my legs. Mansing, bruised +and aching all over, was brought forward and tied by his legs to the +same log of wood to which I was fastened. They informed me that they +would kill my coolie first. One brutal Lama seized him roughly by the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> + +throat. I was pushed up in a sitting posture. A cloth was thrown over my +head and face, so that I could not see what they were doing. I heard +poor Mansing groan pitifully, then there was a dead silence. I called +him, but received no answer, so I concluded that he had been killed. I +was left in this terrible suspense for over a quarter of an hour, when +at last they removed the cloth from over my head, and I saw my coolie +lying before me, bound to the log and almost unconscious, but, thank +God, still alive. He told me that, when I had called him, a Lama had +placed his hand upon his mouth to prevent him from answering, while, +with the other hand, the Lama had squeezed his neck so tightly as to +nearly strangle him. Mansing's coolness and bravery during these +terrible trials were really marvellous.</p> + +<p>We were told that our execution was only postponed till the next day, in +order that we might be tortured until the time came for us to be put to +death.</p> + +<p>A number of Lamas and soldiers stood round jeering at us. I seized this +opportunity to hail a swaggering Lama and ask him for some refreshment.</p> + +<p>"<i>Orcheh, orcheh nga dappa tugu duh, chuen deh, dang, yak, guram, tcha, +tsamba pin!</i>" (I am very hungry; please give me some rice, yak meat, +<i>ghur</i>, tea, and oatmeal!) I asked, in my best Tibetan.</p> + +<p>"<i>Hum murr, Maharaja!</i>" (I want butter, your Majesty!) put in Mansing, +half in Hindustani and half in the Tibetan language.</p> + +<p>This natural application for food seemed to afford intense amusement to +our torturers. They formed a ring round us, and laughed at our appeal, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> + +while Mansing and I, both of us famished, were left bound in a most +painful position.</p> + +<p>The day had now waned. Our torturers did not fail to constantly remind +us that the following day our heads would be severed from our bodies. I +told them that it would cause us no pain, for if they gave us no food we +should probably be dead from starvation by then.</p> + +<p>Whether they realized that this might be the case, or whether some other +reason moved them, I cannot say. Several Lamas, who had been most +brutal, including one who had the previous day taken part in Chanden +Sing's flogging, now became quite polite and treated us with a +surprising amount of deference. Two Lamas were dispatched to the +monastery, and returned after some time with bags of <i>tsamba</i> and a +large <i>raksang</i> of boiling tea. I have hardly ever enjoyed a meal more, +though the Lamas stuffed the food down my throat with their unwashed +fingers so fast that they nearly choked me.</p> + +<p>"Eat, eat as much as you can," said they, grimly, "for it may be your +last meal."</p> + +<p>And eat I did, and washed the <i>tsamba</i> down with quantities of buttered +tea, which they poured into my mouth carelessly out of the <i>raksang</i>.</p> + +<p>Mansing, whose religion did not allow him to eat food touched by people +of a different caste, was eventually permitted to lick the meal out of +the wooden bowl. I myself was none too proud to take the food in any way +it might be offered, and when my humble "<i>Orcheh, orcheh tchuen mangbo +terokchi!</i>" (Please give me some more!) met with the disapproval of the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> + +Lamas, and brought out the everlasting negative, "<i>Middù, middù</i>" I was +still too hungry to waste any of the precious food given us. Upon +application the Tibetans revolved the wooden bowl round and round my +mouth, and I licked it as clean as if it had never been used.</p> + +<p>After all the excitement of the day, we were beginning to feel a little +better. It was a great relief to be treated less roughly, were it only +for a few moments, when, small as it was, the improvement in our +condition was checked.</p> + +<p>A Lama came from the monastery and gave orders right and left. The place +was again in commotion. We were pounced upon and roughly seized. My legs +were quickly untied, a number of men holding me down the while. Again +they lifted me until I stood upright on the cutting edge of the +prismatic log; two men seized one leg and two the other, and stretched +them apart as far as they could possibly go. Then rope after rope was +wound round my feet and ankles, and I was made fast as before to the +log.</p> + +<p>As my legs were much farther apart this time, the pain in the muscles of +my legs when they proceeded to knock me down backward was even greater +than it had been on the previous occasion. But before I had time to feel +it in full, the Lamas, now as ferocious as they were at first, dragged +my manacled arms backward from under my body and tied a rope to the +chain of the handcuffs. This done, they passed the rope through a hole +in the top of a high post behind me, and by tugging at it, strained my +arms upward in a way that, had I been less supple, would certainly have + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> + +broken them. When all their strength combined could not stretch me +another inch without tearing my body to pieces, they made the rope fast, +and I remained half suspended, and feeling as if all the bones of my +limbs were getting pulled out of their sockets. The weight of the body +naturally tending to settle down would, I felt, every moment increase +the suffering of this terrible torture, which was really a primitive +form of the rack.</p> + +<p>Mansing was likewise suspended opposite me. His feet were tied to the +log to which my own were fastened, only not quite so wide apart.</p> + +<p>The pain was at first intense, the tendons of the legs and arms being +dreadfully strained, and the spinal column bent so as to be nearly +broken in two. The shoulder-blades, forced into close contact, pressed +the vertebræ inward, and caused excruciating pains along the lumbar +vertebræ, where the strain was greatest.</p> + +<p>As if this were not sufficient, a cord was tied from Mansing's neck to +mine, the object of which was to keep our necks stretched in a most +uncomfortable position.</p> + +<p>It began to rain heavily. We were left out in the open. The rags to +which our clothes had been reduced in our struggle when we were first +seized were drenched. Half naked and wounded, we were alternately numbed +with cold and burning with fever. A guard encircled us, having with them +two watch-dogs tied to pegs. The soldiers were apparently so confident +of our inability to escape that they drew their heavy blankets over +their heads and slept. One of them in his slumber moved and pushed his +sword outside the blanket in which he had rolled himself tight. This + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> + +inspired me with the idea of attempting to escape.</p> + +<p>Two or three hours later the night was dark. Thanks to the exceptionally +supple nature of my hands, I succeeded in drawing the right hand out of +my handcuffs, and, after an hour or so of stealthy and anxious work, I +managed to unloose the cord that bound Mansing's feet. I whispered to +him to get up slowly and to push the sword toward me with his foot until +I could reach it. If successful in this, I could soon cut my bonds and +those fastening Mansing's hands, and with a weapon in our possession we +would make a bold dash for liberty.</p> + +<p>Mansing, however, was not a champion of agility. In his joy at feeling +partly free, the poor coolie moved his stiff legs clumsily. The vigilant +watch-dogs detected this, and gave the alarm by barking. The guards were +up in a moment. Timid as they always were, they all hurriedly left us, +and went to fetch lights in order to examine our bonds.</p> + +<p>In the meanwhile, protected by the darkness of the stormy night, I had +succeeded in replacing my hand inside the iron handcuff. Putting it back +was more difficult than drawing it out, but I just managed to do it in +time. The men who had gone to the monastery returned with lights. I +pretended to be fast asleep: a likely thing with every bone in my body +feeling as if it were disjointed, every limb half numbed and frozen, +every tendon so strained as to drive me mad with pain!</p> + +<p>The Tibetans found the bonds round Mansing's feet undone. They examined +my hands and saw them just as they had left them. They inspected my + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span> + +feet. The ropes were still there cutting into my flesh. They inspected +Mansing's hands, only to find them still fastened to the post behind.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans were so puzzled at this mysterious occurrence that they +positively got frightened. They began to shout excitedly, calling for +help. In a moment the alarm was given, a crowd of men rushed at us, and, +with their swords drawn, surrounded us. One man, braver than the rest, +gave Mansing a few cuts with a whip, warning us that if the ropes were +found undone again they would decapitate us there and then. The coolie +was again bound more tightly than ever.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Measured some weeks later by Doctor Wilson.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a>CHAPTER XXII</h2> + +<h3>A CHARMED LIFE</h3> + + +<p>By way of precaution, a light was set between Mansing and myself, and, +as it was still raining hard, the Tibetans placed a canvas shelter over +us to prevent the light from being extinguished. At about six or seven +in the morning Mansing's feet were untied, but not his hands. I was left +in the same uncomfortable and painful posture. The hours passed slowly +and wearily. My legs, my arms, and hands had gradually become quite +lifeless. After the first six or seven hours that I had been stretched +on the rack, I felt no more actual pain. The numbness crept along every +limb of my body, until I had now the peculiar sensation of possessing a +living head on a dead body.</p> + +<p>The day now dawning was one full of strange incidents. When the sun was +high in the sky, the Pombo, with a great number of Lamas, rode down from +the monastery, a short distance away. He went to his tent. Soon after, +my cases of scientific instruments were brought outside and opened, the +soldiers and Lamas displaying an amusing mixture of curiosity and +caution over everything they touched. I had to explain the use of each +instrument, a difficult matter indeed, considering their ignorance and +my limited knowledge of Tibetan, which did not allow of my delivering +scientific lectures in their language. The sextant was looked upon with + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> + +great suspicion, and even more so the hypsometrical apparatus, with its +thermometers in brass tubes, which they took to be some sort of firearm. +Then came a lot of undeveloped photographic plates, box after box of +which they opened in broad daylight, destroying in a few moments all the +valuable negatives that I had taken since leaving Mansarowar. The Pombo, +more observant than the others, noticed that the plates turned into a +yellowish color on being exposed to the light.</p> + +<p>"Why is that?" he asked.</p> + +<p>"It is a sign that you will suffer for what you are doing to me."</p> + +<p>The Pombo flung away the plate he had picked up and was much upset. He +ordered a hole to be dug in the ground some way off, and all the plates +to be instantly buried. The soldiers, however, who had been intrusted +with the order, seemed loath to touch the plates, and they had to be +reprimanded and beaten by the Lamas, before they would obey. At last, +with their feet, they pushed the boxes of negatives to a spot some +distance off, where, in dog fashion, they dug a deep hole with their +hands in the muddy ground. There my precious photographic work of +several weeks was covered with earth forever.</p> + +<p>Now came my paint-box with its cakes of water-colors.</p> + +<p>"What do you do with these?" cried an angry Lama, pointing at the +harmless colors.</p> + +<p>"I paint pictures."</p> + +<p>"No, you are lying. With the 'yellow' you find where gold is in the + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span> + +country, and with the 'blue' you discover where malachite is."</p> + +<p>I assured them that this was not the case, and told them that if they +would untie me I would, on recovering the use of my arms, paint a +picture before them.</p> + +<p>They prudently preferred to leave me tied up.</p> + +<p>Their whole attention was now drawn to a considerable sum in silver and +gold which they found in the pack-cases. The Pombo warned the people +that not one coin must be stolen.</p> + +<p>I took this chance to make an offering of five hundred rupees to the +Lamasery. I also told the Pombo that I should like him to accept as a +gift my Martini-Henry rifle, which I noticed rather took his fancy.</p> + +<p>Both gifts were refused. They said the Lamasery was very rich, and the +Pombo's position as an official did not allow him to carry a rifle. The +Pombo, nevertheless, fully appreciated the offer, and came personally to +thank me.</p> + +<p>In a way the rascals were gentlemanly enough in their manner. I could +not help admiring their mixture of courtesy and cruelty, either of which +they could switch on at a moment's notice regardless of the other.</p> + +<p>They had now reached the bottom of a water-tight case. The Pombo drew +out with much suspicion a curious flattened article.</p> + +<p>"What is that?" inquired he, lifting the thing up in the air.</p> + +<p>My sight had been so injured that at that distance I could not clearly +discern what it was; but when they waved it in front of my nose, I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span> + +recognized it to be my long-mislaid bath-sponge, dry and flattened, +which Chanden Sing, with his usual ability for packing, had stored away +at the bottom of the box, piling upon it the heavy cases of photographic +plates. The sponge, a large one, was now reduced to the thickness of +less than an inch, owing to the weight that had for weeks lain upon it.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans were greatly puzzled at this new discovery. They had never +seen or even heard of sponges. Some said it resembled tinder. The wiser +Lamas said it might explode. It was touched with caution.</p> + +<p>When their curiosity was satisfied, they threw it away. It fell near me +in a small pool of water. This was a golden opportunity to frighten my +jailers. I addressed the sponge in English, and with any word that came +in my head, pretending to utter incantations. The attention of the Lamas +and soldiers was quickly drawn to this unusual behavior on my part. They +could not conceal their terror when, as I spoke louder and louder to the +sponge, it gradually swelled to its normal size with the moisture it +absorbed.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans, who at first could hardly believe their eyes at this +incomprehensible occurrence, became panic-stricken at what they believed +to be an exhibition of my occult powers. There was a general stampede in +every direction.</p> + +<p>In a way, all this was entertaining. Anyhow, it served to pass away the +time. The most amusing scene that afternoon was, however, still to come.</p> + +<p>After some time the Lamas screwed up their courage, and returned to + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> + +where my baggage had been overhauled. One of them picked up my +Martini-Henry. The others urged him to fire it off. He came to me, and +when I had explained to him how to load it, he took a cartridge and +placed it in the breech, but would insist on not closing the bolt firmly +home. When I warned him of the consequences, he struck me on the head +with the butt of the rifle.</p> + +<p>It is the fashion, when aiming with one of their matchlocks, which have +a prop attached to them, to place the butt in front of the nose instead +of holding it firmly against the shoulder, as we do. So the Lama aimed +in this fashion at one of my yaks peacefully grazing some thirty yards +off. While everybody watched attentively to see the result of this +marksman's shooting, he pulled the trigger; the rifle went off with an +extra loud report, and behold! the rifle burst and the violent recoil +gave the Lama a fearful blow in the face. The rifle, flying out of his +hands, described a somersault in the air, and the Lama fell backward to +the ground, where he remained spread out flat, bleeding all over, and +screaming like a child. His nose was squashed, one eye had been put out, +and his teeth were shattered.</p> + +<p>Whether the rifle burst because the bolt had not been properly closed, +or because mud had got into the muzzle, I could not say.</p> + +<p>The injured Lama was the one at the head of the party that wanted to +have my head cut off, so, naturally enough, I could not help betraying +my satisfaction at the accident. I was glad they had let me live another +day, were it only to see this amusing scene.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Pombo, who had been, during the greater part of the afternoon, +looking at me with an air of mingled pity and respect, as though he had +been forced against his will to treat me so brutally, could not help +joining in my laughter at the Lama's sorrowful plight. In a way, I +believe he was rather glad the accident had happened; for, if he had +until then been uncertain whether to kill me or not, he felt, after what +had occurred, that it was not prudent to attempt it.</p> + +<p>The gold ring which had been seized from me on the day of our arrest, +and for which I asked many times, as it had been given me by my mother, +was regarded as possessing miraculous powers as long as it was upon or +near me. It was therefore kept away from me, for fear that, with its +help, I might break my bonds and escape.</p> + +<p>The Pombo, the Lamas, and officers held another consultation, at the end +of which, toward sunset, several soldiers came and loosed my legs from +the stretching log. My hands, though still manacled, were lowered from +the pillar behind.</p> + +<p>As the ropes round my ankles were unwound from the deep channels they +had cut into my flesh, large patches of skin came away with them. Thus +ended the most terrible twenty-four hours<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> I have ever passed in my +lifetime.</p> + +<p>I felt very little relief at first as I lay flat on the ground. My body +and legs were stiff as if dead. As time went by and I saw no signs of +their coming back to life, I feared that mortification had set in, and +that I had lost the use of my feet forever. It was two or three hours + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> + +before the blood began to circulate in my right foot. The pain when it +did so was intense. Had a handful of knives been passed slowly down the +inside of my leg the agony could not have been more excruciating. My +arms were not quite so bad. They also were numbed, but the circulation +was more quickly re-established.</p> + +<p>The Pombo, whether to amuse me or to show off his riches, ordered to be +displayed before me about one hundred ponies, some with magnificent +harness. Mounting the finest pony and holding in his hand the dreadful +<i>taram</i>, he rode round the hill on which the monastery and fort stood.</p> + +<p>On returning he harangued his men. A series of sports followed, the +Pombo seating himself near me and watching me intently to see how I was +enjoying the performance. First of all the best marksmen were selected. +With their matchlocks they fired one after the other at my two yaks, +only a few yards off. Although they aimed carefully, no one succeeded in +hitting them. I knew they fired with bullets, for I could hear the +hissing sound of the missiles.</p> + +<p>Next came an interesting display of horsemanship. I should have enjoyed +it more had I not been suffering agonies all the time. The performance +helped to cheer me. First there were races in which only two ponies at a +time took part, the last race being run between two winners. A <i>kata</i> +was presented to the final winner. Next one horseman rode ahead full +gallop flying a <i>kata</i>, while some others followed closely behind. The +<i>kata</i> was dropped. When it settled on the ground, the horsemen +following the leader rode away, and, at a given signal, galloped back + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> + +wildly, converging toward the <i>kata</i>, attempting to pick it up without +dismounting. Some of the younger men were very clever at this game.</p> + +<p>Another sport consisted in one man on foot being seized and lifted on to +the saddle by a mounted comrade riding full gallop.</p> + +<p>Though I could not see as well as I wished, I enjoyed the show, and +expressed admiration for the ponies. The Pombo thoughtfully ordered the +best of them to be brought closer to me, and had me lifted into a +sitting posture, so that I could see them better.</p> + +<p>This was a great relief. I was suffering more from my humiliating +position, being unable to stand, than from the tortures themselves, bad +as they were. The Pombo told me that I must now look toward the tent. He +then got up and walked toward it.</p> + +<p>The opening of the tent was over twenty feet long. Some soldiers came +and dragged me close in front of it, so that I could witness all that +went on.</p> + +<p>Two powerful Lamas entered the tent with the Pombo. A number of other +people who were inside were turned out. They closed the tent for a few +minutes, and then opened it again. In the mean time a gong summoned the +Lamas from the monastery and, a few minutes later, a procession of them +came down and took their places inside the tent.</p> + +<p>The Pombo, in his yellow coat and trousers and four-pointed hat, sat on +a high-backed chair in the centre of the tent. By his side stood the two +Lamas who had first entered with him. The Pombo was beyond doubt in a + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> + +hypnotic trance. He sat motionless, with his hands flat on his knees and +his head erect; his eyes were fixed and staring. He remained like this +for some minutes. All the soldiers and people who had collected in front +of the tent went down on their knees, laid their caps on the ground, and +muttered prayers. One of the two Lamas, a fellow with evident mesmeric +powers, now laid his hand upon the shoulders of the Pombo, who gradually +raised his arms with hands outstretched and remained, as if in a +cataleptic state, for a long time without moving.</p> + +<p>Next the Lama touched the Pombo's neck with his thumbs, and caused his +head to begin a rapid circular movement from left to right.</p> + +<p>Certain exorcisms were pronounced by the hypnotizer. The Pombo began +most extraordinary snake-like contortions, moving and twisting his arms, +head, body, and legs. He worked himself, or rather was worked, into a +frenzy that lasted some time. The crowd of devotees drew nearer and +nearer to him, praying fervently. There were deep sighs and cries of +astonishment, even of terror, when the Pombo performed some of the more +eccentric movements with his limbs. Now and then this weird dance +terminated in a strange posture, the Pombo actually doubling himself up +with his head between his feet and his long, flat hat resting on the +ground. While he was in this position, the bystanders went one by one to +touch his feet and make low prostrations and salutations. At last the +hypnotizer, seizing the Pombo's head between his hands, stared in his +eyes, rubbed his forehead, and woke him from the trance. The Pombo was + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> + +pale and exhausted. When he lay back on the chair his hat fell off. His +clean-shaven head unmistakably showed that he, too, was a Lama. Indeed, +he belonged to a very high order, probably the first rank after the +Dalai Lama of Lhassa.</p> + +<p><i>Katas</i> were distributed after this performance to all the Tibetans +present, who folded them and stowed them away in their coats.</p> + +<p>The Pombo came out of his gaudy tent. I told him that the dance was +beautiful, but I was very hungry. He asked me what I wanted to eat. I +said I should like some meat and tea.</p> + +<p>A little later a large vessel with a delicious stew of yak meat was +brought to me, as well as <i>tsamba</i> in abundance. I felt famished, but I +had the greatest difficulty in swallowing even a little food. This, I +thought, must be owing to the injuries to my spine and the +semi-mortification of my limbs, which had apparently affected my whole +system except my head.</p> + +<p>When the Pombo had retired and night came on, I was again tied to the +stretching log. This time with my legs stretched not so far apart. My +arms were again fastened to the pillar behind, but with no strain on +them.</p> + +<p>Late in the evening half a dozen Lamas came from the monastery with a +light and a large brass bowl which, they said, contained tea. The +wounded Lama, with his head bandaged up, was among them. He was so +anxious for me to drink some of the steaming beverage, in order that I +should keep warm during the cold night, that I became suspicious. When +they pushed a bowl of the liquid to my lips, I merely sipped a little +and declined to take more, spitting out what little they had poured + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> + +into my mouth. I unfortunately swallowed a few drops. A few minutes +later I was seized with sharp pains in my stomach, which continued for +several days after. The drink proffered me was poisoned.</p> + +<p>The following day my left foot, which had remained lifeless since I had +been untied from the rack the first time, began to get better, and the +circulation was gradually restored. The pain was unbearable.</p> + +<p>In the morning indecision again prevailed as to what they would do to +us. A number of Lamas were still anxious to have us beheaded, whereas +the Pombo and the others had the previous night almost made up their +minds to send us back to the frontier. Unluckily, it appears that the +Pombo had a vision during the night. A spirit told him that, if he did +not kill us, he and his country would suffer from a great calamity. "You +can kill the <i>Plenki</i>," the spirit was reported to have said, "and no +one will punish you if you do. The <i>Plenkis</i> are afraid to fight the +Tibetans."</p> + +<p>Among the Lamas no important step is taken without incantations and +reference to occult science. The Pombo ordered a Lama to cut off a lock +of my hair. A soldier did this with a blunt knife, and the Pombo rode up +with it in his hands to the Lamasery to consult the oracle. The lock was +handed in for examination. After certain incantations, the oracle +answered that I must be beheaded or the country would be in great +danger.</p> + +<p>The Pombo rode back disappointed, and now ordered that one of my +toe-nails should be cut. This operation was performed with the same + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> + +blunt knife; the oracle was again consulted; the same answer was +received.</p> + +<p>Three such consultations are usually held by the high court of the +assembled Lamas, the Tibetans on the third occasion producing for the +oracle's decision a piece wrenched from a finger-nail. The Lama who +performed this last operation examined my hands and spread my fingers +apart, expressing intense astonishment. In a moment all the Lamas and +soldiers came round and examined my hands—a repetition of my experience +at the Tucker monastery. The Pombo, too, on being informed, immediately +came and inspected my fingers. Matters from that moment took a different +turn.</p> + +<p>When, some weeks later, I was released I was able to learn from the +Tibetans the reason of their amazement. My fingers happen to be webbed +rather higher than usual. This is most highly thought of in Tibet. A +person possessing such fingers has, according to the Tibetans, a charmed +life. No matter how much is tried, no real harm can be done to him. +Apart from the question whether there was much charm or not in my life +in Tibet, there is no doubt that this trifling superstition did much +toward hastening the Pombo's decision as to what was to be our fate.</p> + +<p>The Pombo ordered that my life should be spared, and that I should on +that very day start on my return journey toward the Indian frontier. He +took from my own money one hundred and twenty rupees, which he placed in +my pocket for my wants during the journey, and commanded that, though I +must be kept chained up, I was to be treated kindly, and my servants +also.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> From sunset one evening to sunset next day.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a>CHAPTER XXIII</h2> + +<h3>LED TO THE FRONTIER</h3> + + +<p>When all was ready, Mansing and I were led on foot to Toxem. Our guard +consisted of some fifty horsemen. We had to travel at a great speed +despite our severely lacerated feet, our aching bones, and the sores and +wounds with which we were covered all over. The soldiers led me tied by +the neck like a dog, and dragged me along when, panting, exhausted, and +suffering, I could not keep up with the ponies. We crossed several cold +streams, sinking in water and mud up to our waists.</p> + +<p>At Toxem, to my delight, I beheld Chanden Sing still alive. He had been +kept prisoner in the mud house, where he had remained tied upright to a +post for over three days. For four days he had eaten no food nor drunk +anything. He was told that I had been beheaded. He was in a dreadful +condition—almost dying from his wounds, cold, and starvation.</p> + +<p>We were detained for the night in one of the rooms of the mud house. The +place was packed with soldiers who gambled the whole night, and sang and +swore and fought, preventing us from sleeping for even a few minutes. We +were half choked by the smoke from the fire.</p> + +<p>The next day at sunrise Chanden Sing and I were placed on yaks, not on +riding-saddles, but on wooden pack-saddles. Poor Mansing was made to + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> + +walk, and was beaten mercilessly when, tired and worn, he fell or +remained behind. Finally they tied a rope round his neck and dragged him +along in a most brutal manner. A strong guard prevented our escaping. +The soldiers demanded fresh relays of yaks and ponies, and food for +themselves, at all the encampments, so that we travelled fast. In the +first five days we covered one hundred and seventy-eight miles, the two +longest marches being, respectively, forty-two and forty-five miles. +Afterward we did not march quite so quickly.</p> + +<p>We suffered considerably on these long marches. The soldiers ill-treated +us, and would not allow us to eat every day for fear we should get too +strong. They let us have food only every two or three days. Our +exhaustion and the pain caused by riding those wretched yaks in our +wounded condition were terrible.</p> + +<p>All our property had been taken away from us. Our clothes, in rags, were +swarming with vermin. We were barefooted and almost naked. The first few +days we generally marched from before sunrise till an hour or two after +sunset. As soon as we reached camp we were torn off our yaks, and our +jailers fastened heavy rings round our ankles, in addition to those we +already had round our wrists. Thus hampered with chains, the Tibetans +knew we could not possibly escape. We were left to sleep out in the open +without a covering of any kind. Some nights we were lying on snow; other +nights we were drenched in rain. Our guard generally pitched a tent +under which they slept. Even when they did not have a shelter, they + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span> + +usually went to brew their tea some fifty yards or so from us.</p> + +<p>Helped by my two servants, who sat by me to keep watch and to screen me, +I managed, at considerable risk, to keep a rough record of the return +journey, on a small piece of paper that had remained in my pocket when I +had been searched by the Tibetans. My hands being supple, I was able to +draw my right hand out of its cuff. Using as a pen a small piece of bone +I had picked up, and my blood as ink, I drew brief cipher notes and a +rough map of the entire route back.</p> + +<p>Necessarily I had to content myself with taking my bearings by the sun, +the position of which I got fairly accurately by constantly watching the +shadow projected by my body on the ground. Of course, when it rained or +snowed, I had to reckon my bearings by the observations of the previous +day. We travelled first west, then successively west-north-west, +north-west, west, and north-west, following the Brahmaputra along a +course south of the outward journey, until we reached the boundary of +the Yutzang (the Lhassa) province. The soldiers of our guard were severe +with us. They ill-treated us in every possible way. Only one or two of +the soldiers showed thoughtfulness, bringing us a little butter or +<i>tsamba</i> whenever they could do so unseen by their comrades. The guard +was changed so frequently that we had no chance of making friends with +the men. Each lot seemed worse than the last.</p> + +<p>A curious incident happened one day, causing a scare among the Tibetans. +We had halted near a cliff. The soldiers were some twenty yards off. + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> + +Having exhausted all other means to inspire these ruffians with respect, +as a last resort I tried ventriloquism. I spoke, and pretended to +receive answers to my words from the summit of the cliff. The Tibetans +were terror-stricken. They asked me who was up there. I said it was some +one I knew.</p> + +<p>"Is it a <i>Plenki</i>?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>Immediately they hustled us on our yaks while they mounted their ponies, +and we left the place at a great speed.</p> + +<p>On reaching a spot, which from observations taken on my outward journey +I reckoned to be in longitude 83° 6' 30" east, and latitude 30° 27' 30" +north, I had a great piece of luck. It was at this point that the two +principal sources of the Brahmaputra met and formed one river, one +coming from the north-west, which I had already followed, the other +coming from the west-north-west. The Tibetans, to my delight, selected +the southern route, thus giving me an opportunity of visiting the second +of the two principal sources of the great river. This second stream rose +in a flat plain, having its first birth in a lakelet in approximate +longitude 82° 47' east and latitude 30° 33' north. I gave the northern +source my own name. I was glad to be the first white man to visit both +sources of the Brahmaputra River.</p> + +<p>Dreary as this period of captivity was, yet it was instructive. As we +went along, I got the soldiers to teach me several Tibetan songs, and +from the less ill-natured men of our guard I picked up, by judicious + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> + +questioning, a considerable amount of information.</p> + +<p>Over a more southerly and lower pass than the Maium Pass, by which, +healthy, hopeful, and free, we had entered the province of Yutzang, we +now left it, wounded, broken down, almost naked, and prisoners.</p> + +<p>We proceeded in a north-westerly direction. Once clear of the sacred +Yutzang province, our guard behaved with rather less cruelty. With the +little money the Pombo had permitted me to keep we were now allowed to +purchase food enough to provide us with more frequent meals. While we +ate, the soldiers removed our handcuffs, which they temporarily placed +round our ankles. With utensils lent us by our guard, we were able to +cook some food. It seemed delicious. We used flat stones for dishes.</p> + +<p>We crossed our former track, and then followed it almost in a parallel +line, some miles north of it, along an undulating, clayey plateau, thus +avoiding the marshy plain which we had found so troublesome to cross on +our outward journey. We found a great number of black tents scattered +here and there. One night, when encamped near some small lakes, we were +allowed to purchase a goat. A soldier who had been friendly to us +selected a fat one for us, and we were looking forward with pleasure to +a solid meal when we found, to our dismay, that we had no means of +dispatching the animal. We could not behead it, as the Tibetans would +not trust us with a knife or sword. The Tibetans refused to kill the +animal for us. Eventually our soldier friend allowed his scruples to be + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span> + +overcome by the payment of a rupee. He tied the animal's legs together, +and having stopped up its nostrils with mud, he held the poor beast's +mouth tightly with one hand until it died by suffocation. With his free +hand the soldier during the performance revolved his prayer-wheel, +praying fervently all the while.</p> + +<p>We found ourselves at last in the plain, where a Tarjum's encampment of +some two hundred tents was to be seen. Here we remained one night. There +was a large assemblage of Lamas and soldiers. In the middle of the night +we were roughly roused from our sleep, and made to move our camp about a +mile or so from the settlement. Early in the morning, having crossed the +large stream, we proceeded in a south-westerly direction, reaching the +encampment of the Tokchim Tarjum the same night. Here we were met by the +officers who had on a previous occasion, during our outward journey, +brought us gifts, and whom we had routed with their soldiers when they +had threatened us.</p> + +<p>This time they behaved considerately. The oldest of them showed us great +civility, and professed admiration for our perseverance against such +heavy odds. The old gentleman did all he could to make us comfortable, +and even got two strolling musicians to amuse us.</p> + +<p>The next day, amid repeated good-byes and professions of friendship on +the part of our hosts and jailers, we departed toward Mansarowar. Late +in the afternoon we reached Tucker Village and Gomba, where we put up at +the same <i>serai</i> in which we had slept on our way out. All our bonds +were here removed, and we enjoyed comparative freedom, though four men + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span> + +walked by my side wherever I went, and an equal number looked after +Chanden Sing and Mansing. Naturally we were not allowed to go far from +the <i>serai</i>, but we could stroll about in the village. I took this +opportunity to have a swim in the Mansarowar Lake. Chanden Sing and +Mansing again paid fresh salaams to the gods, and also plunged into the +sacred waters.</p> + +<p>The local Lamas, who had been friendly during my former visit, were now +extremely sulky and rude. Having witnessed our arrival, they withdrew +into the monastery, slamming the gate after them. All the villagers, +too, hastily retired to their respective houses. The place looked +deserted with the exception of the soldiers round us.</p> + +<p>Poor Mansing, who, worn out and in great pain, was sitting close by me, +looking vaguely at the lake, had an extraordinary vision, the result, +probably, of fever or exhaustion.</p> + +<p>"Oh, sir," said he, as if in a dream, though he was quite awake, "look, +look! Look at the crowd of people walking on the water! There must be +more than a thousand men! Oh, how big they are getting!... And there is +God!... No; they are Tibetans; they are coming to kill us; they are +Lamas! Oh, come, sahib, they are near!... Oh, they are flying!..."</p> + +<p>"Where are they?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"They have all disappeared!" he exclaimed, as I placed my hand on his +forehead and he woke from his trance.</p> + +<p>I could see that the poor fellow was under an hallucination. His + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span> + +forehead was burning, and he had a high fever.</p> + +<p>He seemed quite stupefied for a few moments. On my inquiring of him +later whether he had seen the phantom crowd again, he could not remember +ever having seen it at all.</p> + +<p>The natives came to visit us in the <i>serai</i> during the evening. We had +great fun with them. The Tibetans were full of humor and had comical +ways. Now that we were only two marches from Taklakot, it was but +natural that our spirits were high. Only two more days of captivity, and +then a prospect of freedom!</p> + +<p>It was still dark when we were roused and ordered to start. The soldiers +dragged us out of the <i>serai</i>. We entreated them to let us have another +plunge in the sacred Mansarowar, and the three of us were eventually +allowed to do so. The water was bitterly cold, and we had nothing to dry +ourselves with.</p> + +<p>It was about an hour before sunrise when we were placed on our yaks and, +surrounded by some thirty soldiers, rode off.</p> + +<p>When we had been marching for several hours our guard halted to have +their tea. A trader named Suna, and his brother and son, whom I had met +in Garbyang, halted near us. From them I heard that news had arrived in +India that my two men and I had been beheaded, and that thereupon Doctor +Wilson and the British Political Officer, Karak Sing, had crossed over +the frontier to ascertain the facts, and to attempt to recover my +baggage, etc. My joy was intense when I heard that they were still at + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span> + +Taklakot. I persuaded Suna to return as fast as he could to inform +Wilson that I was a prisoner, and to tell him my whereabouts. I had +barely given Suna this message when our guard seized the man and his +brother and roughly dismissed them, preventing them from having any +further communication with us.</p> + +<p>As soon as we were on the march again, a horseman rode up to us with +strict orders from the Jong Pen of Taklakot not to let us proceed any +farther toward the frontier by the Lippu Pass, which we could now have +reached in two days, but to take us instead by the distant Lumpiya Pass. +At that time of the year the Lumpiya would be impassable. We should have +to make a further journey of at least fifteen or sixteen days, most of +it over snow and ice, during which we, in our starved and weakened +state, would inevitably die. We asked to be taken into Taklakot, but our +guard refused. The Jong Pen of Taklakot had sent other messengers and +soldiers to insure the fulfilment of his orders, and to prevent our +further progress.</p> + +<p>Our guard, now strengthened by the Taklakot men, compelled us to leave +the Taklakot track, and we began our journey toward the cold Lumpiya. +This was murder. The Tibetans, well knowing it, calculated on telling +the British authorities that we had died of a natural death on the +snows.</p> + +<p>We were informed that we should be left at the point where the perpetual +snows began, that the Tibetans would give us no food, no clothes and no +blankets, and that we should be abandoned to cross over the frontier as + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> + +best we could. This, needless to say, meant sure death.</p> + +<p>After travelling some two and a half miles westward of the Taklakot +track we declined to proceed any farther in that direction. We said +that, if they attempted to compel us, we were prepared to fight our +guard. Whether we died by their swords and matchlocks, or froze to death +on the Lumpiya, was quite immaterial to us.</p> + +<p>The guard, perplexed, decided to let us halt there for the night, so as +to have time to send a messenger to Taklakot to inform the Jong Pen, and +ask for further instructions.</p> + +<p>During the night the order came that we must proceed, so the next +morning our guard prepared to start us again toward the Lumpiya. It was +at that moment that we three semi-corpses collected what little strength +remained in us, and suddenly, with what stones we could pick up, made an +attack on the soldiers. Incredible as it may seem, our cowardly guard +bolted! We went on in the direction of Taklakot, followed at a distance +by these ruffians, who were entreating us to make no further resistance +and to go with them where they wanted us to go. If we did not, they +said, they would all have their heads cut off. We refused to listen, and +kept them away by throwing stones at them.</p> + +<p>We had gone but a few miles when we met with a large force of soldiers +and Lamas, dispatched by the Jong Pen to prepare for our death. Unarmed, +wounded, starved, and exhausted as we were, it was useless attempting to +fight against such odds. As it was, when they saw we had regained our +freedom, they made ready to fire on us.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-15.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="fig15" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">WE ATTACKED OUR GUARD WITH STONES</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Jong Pen's chief minister, a man called Lapsang, and the Jong Pen's +private secretary, were at the head of this party. I went to shake hands +with them. A long and stormy palaver followed, but they kept firm and +insisted on our turning away from the frontier, now that we were within +a short distance of it. We must perforce proceed by the high Lumpiya +Pass. Those were the Jong Pen's orders, and they, as well as I, must +obey them. They would not give us or sell us either animals or clothes, +which even the small sum of money I had on me would have been sufficient +to buy. They would not provide us with an ounce of food. We emphatically +protested, and said we preferred to die where we were. We asked them to +kill us there and then, for we would not budge an inch westward.</p> + +<p>Lapsang and the Jong Pen's private secretary now cunningly suggested +that I should give them in writing the names of the Shokas who had +accompanied me to Tibet, probably with the object of confiscating the +land and goods of these former followers of mine. As I said I could not +write Tibetan or Hindustani, they requested me to do it in English. This +I did, but substituting for the names of my men and my signature +sarcastic words, which must have caused the Tibetans surprise when they +had the document translated.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans refused to kill us there and then. Lapsang showed us great +politeness, and asked us as a personal favor to him to go by the Lumpiya +Pass. As I had no alternative I reluctantly decided to accept their + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> + +terms rather than waste any more time talking.</p> + +<p>Escorted by the large force of soldiers, we had nearly reached Kardam +when a horseman came up at a full gallop and hailed our party. We +stopped. The messenger overtook us and handed Lapsang a letter. It +contained an order to bring us immediately into Taklakot.</p> + +<p>We retraced our steps along the undulating plateau above the Gakkon +River. Late at night we reached the village of Dogmar, a peculiar +settlement in a valley between two high cliffs of clay. The natives +lived in holes and chambers hollowed in the cliff.</p> + +<p>Lapsang, the Jong Pen's private secretary, and the greater portion of +the soldiers, having changed their ponies, went on to Taklakot. We were +made to halt. Another letter came from the Jong Pen saying he had +changed his mind, and we must, after all, go by the Lumpiya Pass!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a>CHAPTER XXIV</h2> + +<h3>WITH FRIENDS AT LAST</h3> + + +<p>In the night a large number of horsemen arrived. There was a great +commotion in the place, the people running about shouting.</p> + +<p>Tibet is farmed out to officials who have practically become small +feudal kings, and who are constantly quarrelling with one another.</p> + +<p>To royal jealousy, and to disputes over the rights of the road, was due +the appearance of the new army. There were altogether some hundred and +fifty men armed with matchlocks and swords. The chieftain of this band +came to me with eight or ten other officers. He spoke so excitedly that +I feared there was trouble in store for us. There was indeed. These new +arrivals were officers and soldiers from the districts of Gyanema, +Kardam, and Barca. They had come with strict orders from the Barca +Tarjum that we were on no account to traverse his province or to cross +into India by the Lumpiya Pass. This was both amusing and tantalizing, +for we had now no way across the frontier open to us. Our guard and some +of the Jong Pen's men who had remained behind, finding they were in the +minority, thought it prudent to disappear. Anxious as I naturally was to +get out of the country as quickly as possible, I approved of all the +Gyanema men said, and urged them to fight in case the Jong Pen insisted + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> + +on my going through the Tarjum's province. All ways out of the country +were now barred to us, and unless we resorted to force, I felt we would +never escape at all.</p> + +<p>The Gyanema men asked me whether I would lead them in case of a fight +with the Jong Pen's soldiers. Though not overconfident in their courage, +I accepted the post of general-in-chief <i>pro tem.</i>, Chanden Sing and +Mansing being elected there and then as my aides-de-camp. We spent the +greater part of the night in arranging our plan of attack on the Jong +Pen's troops. When all was properly settled, the Tibetans, to show their +gratitude, brought me a leg of mutton, some <i>tsamba</i>, and two bricks of +tea.</p> + +<p>Morning came. I was given a beautiful pony to ride. Chanden Sing and +Mansing were mounted on equally handsome animals. Then followed my +Tibetan troops—a grand cavalcade. We started gayly toward Taklakot. We +had been informed that the Jong Pen was concentrating his men at a +certain point on the road, where he intended to bar our way. It was this +point that we must force. My Tibetans said that they hated the Jong +Pen's men, and swore they would slaughter them all if they dared to +stand before us and prevent our passage.</p> + +<p>"But they are such cowards," declared one of the Tibetan officers, "they +will run away."</p> + +<p>All this talk suddenly stopped when we heard the distant tinkling of our +enemies' horse-bells. I encouraged my men as best I could, but a panic +began to spread among them. The Jong Pen's men came in sight. I + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> + +witnessed the strange spectacle of two armies face to face, each in +mortal terror of the other.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding my remonstrances, matchlocks and swords were deposited +on the ground with anxious eagerness by both parties, in order to show +that only peaceful intentions prevailed. Then a conference was held, in +which everybody seemed ready to oblige everybody else except me.</p> + +<p>While this was still proceeding, a horseman arrived with a message from +the Jong Pen, and at last, to everybody's satisfaction, permission was +granted for us to proceed into Taklakot.</p> + +<p>My army retraced its steps toward the north-west. Deposed from the high +military post, which I had occupied only for a few hours, I became again +a private individual and a prisoner. A large escort took us along a +rocky road following the course of the Gakkon River along barren cliffs. +We passed hundreds of <i>choktens</i>, large and small, mostly painted red, +and <i>mani</i> walls. Then, having descended by a precipitous track on +whitish clay-soil, we reached a thickly inhabited district, where stone +houses were scattered all over the landscape. We saw on our left the +large monastery of Delaling, and, a little way off, the Gomba of +Sibling. Describing a sweeping curve among rocks and bowlders, we +rounded the high, graceful cliff, on the top of which towered the fort +and monasteries of Taklakot.</p> + +<p>Such was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest something should +happen and we should be taken back again by another route, that as soon + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> + +as we were across the wooden bridge over the Gakkon River, Chanden Sing +and I, on perceiving the large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill, +lashed our ponies and ran away from our guard. Galloping our hardest +along the high cliff, riddled with holes and passages in which the +natives live, we found ourselves at last among friends again. The +Shokas, who had come over to this market to exchange their goods with +the Tibetans, were astounded when they saw us. They recognized us with +great difficulty.</p> + +<p>We inquired at once for Doctor Wilson. When we found him the good man +could hardly recognize us, so changed were we. He seemed deeply moved at +our pitiable condition.</p> + +<p>When the news of our arrival spread in camp, we met with the greatest +kindness at the hands of everybody. In a corner of Wilson's tent was a +large quantity of candied sugar—several pounds. So famished was I that +I threw myself on it and quickly devoured the lot. Later, my Shoka +friends brought in all kinds of presents in the shape of eatables, and +Rubso, the doctor's cook, was set to prepare an elaborate meal.</p> + +<p>The British Political Frontier Officer, Karak Sing, hurried to me with a +change of clothes. Other garments were given me by Doctor Wilson. My own +ragged attire was literally swarming with vermin. Our guard had not +allowed us a single change of clothes, nor would they even hear of our +washing daily. It was by a special favor, and merely on account of its +sanctity, that we were allowed to plunge into the sacred Mansarowar +Lake.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span></p> + +<p>Later in the day my wounds and injuries were examined by Doctor Wilson, +who sent official reports to the Government of India.</p> + +<p>Tenderly nursed by Wilson and Karak Sing, and having partaken of plenty +of good food, my spirits, which had fallen rather low, revived as by +magic. After a few hours of happiness, I was already beginning to forget +the hardships and sufferings I had endured. I remained three days at +Taklakot, during which time part of my confiscated baggage was returned +to me by the Tibetans. I was overjoyed to discover that among the things +thus recovered were my diary, note-books, maps, and sketches. My +firearms, most of my money, the gold ring credited with wonderful +powers, several mathematical instruments, collections, over four hundred +photographic negatives, and various other articles were still +missing,<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> +but I was glad to get back as much as I did.</p> + +<p>To Doctor Wilson's tent came the Tokchim Tarjum, his private secretary, +Nerba, whom the reader may remember as having played an important part +in my tortures, the Jong Pen's secretary, and Lapsang in his handsome +green velvet coat with ample sleeves. These Tibetan officials admitted +before the Political Officer, Doctor Wilson, Pundit Gobaria, and many +Shokas, and even professed to be proud of what they had done to me. They +used expressions not at all flattering to the British Government, for +which they seemed to entertain great contempt.</p> + +<p>I nearly got the Political Officer and the doctor into a scrape. My + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span> + +blood, the little I had left, was boiling with rage at hearing the +Tibetan insults. The climax came when Nerba refused to give back my +mother's ring, which he had upon him. In a passion I seized a knife that +was lying by me, and leaped upon Nerba, the ruffian who had once fired +at me, and had held me by the hair while my eyes were being injured, as +well as during the preliminaries for my execution. Wilson and Karak Sing +checked me, and took the knife out of my hand. There was a general +stampede of the Tibetan officers, and our interview and negotiations +were brought to an abrupt end.</p> + +<p>In further conversation I learned how my release had been brought about. +Doctor Wilson and the Political Agent, having received news that my +servants and myself had been beheaded, proceeded across the frontier to +make inquiries and to try to recover my property. They heard only on +arrival at Taklakot from the man Suna, whom I had sent from Mansarowar +with my message, that I was still alive and a prisoner, covered with +wounds, in rags, and starving. They had not enough men to force their +way farther into the country to come and meet me. Besides, the Tibetans +watched them carefully. Together with the influential Pundit Gobaria +they made strong representations to the Jong Pen of Taklakot. By +threatening him that an army would be sent to my rescue if I were not +set at liberty, they at last obtained from the reluctant Tibetan +potentate permission that I should be brought into Taklakot. The +permission was afterward withdrawn, but was at last allowed to be +carried into execution. It was entirely due to the good offices and +energy of these three men that I was brought back alive.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<img src="images/figure-16.jpg" width="382" height="600" alt="fig16" title=""></img> +</div> +<p class="caption">CLIFF HABITATIONS</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span></p> + +<p>Pundit Gobaria was the most influential Shoka chief and trader on our +frontier in Bhot. He was on very friendly terms with the Tibetans and +was the intermediary through whom negotiations were carried on for my +immediate release. It was largely owing to his advice to the Jong Pen +that the negotiations led to satisfactory results.</p> + +<p>After a short rest to recover sufficient strength, I recommenced my +journey toward India. Having crossed the Lippu Pass (16,780 feet) I +found myself at last on British soil again. We descended by slow stages +to Gungi, where, in Doctor Wilson's dispensary, I had to halt for a few +days on account of my weak condition.</p> + +<p>Wilson had here a quantity of my baggage, instruments, cameras, plates, +etc., which I had discarded at the beginning of my journey. They came +handy. I had photographs taken of my two servants and myself, showing +our wounds and general condition. In the full-face photograph, +reproduced in this book, can be noticed the injuries to my left eye, as +well as the marks of the hot-iron torture on the skin of my forehead and +nose. I could see comparatively well with my right eye, but was unable +to use the left eye at all.</p> + +<p>The injuries to my spine were severe, and gave me much trouble. At times +the whole of my left side became as if paralyzed. I experienced great +difficulty in sitting down when I had been standing, and in getting up +when I had been sitting down. Through the great strain they had + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> + +undergone, my joints were stiff and swollen, and remained so for several +months.</p> + +<p>I was anxious to return to Europe as soon as possible. From Gungi and +Garbyang I travelled down to Askote in the company of the Political +Agent. The Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places. Rough, shaky +bridges had been constructed across the deep precipices. We met with a +hearty reception everywhere, and kindness was showered upon us by all +alike.</p> + +<p>At Askote I met Mr. J. Larkin, hastily dispatched by the Government of +India to the frontier to conduct an inquiry into my case. Though still +suffering much pain, I insisted on turning back once more toward Tibet +to help him in his task. By quick marches we reached Garbyang and +climbed toward the snows. We intended crossing over the Lippu Pass into +Tibet to give the Jong Pen an opportunity of being interviewed. The +Tibetan official refused to meet us.</p> + +<p>In order to give the Tibetans every chance, we climbed over the Lippu +Pass. It had been snowing heavily, and it was very cold. A Shoka had +only a few days previously been frozen to death in the snow trying to +cross over the pass. There were some twelve feet of snow, and the ascent +was not easy. Toiling for two hours from our last camp on the +mountain-side, we reached the summit of the pass. I was once more in +Tibet. Doctor Wilson, the Political Agent, and others were with us. +Having found a suitable spot where the wind did not cut quite so +furiously into our faces, we halted for a considerable time and waited +impatiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the Jong Pen or his + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> + +deputies, to whom letters had been sent asking them to come and meet us. +They did not put in an appearance.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon of October 12th I finally turned my back on the +Forbidden Land. I was still far from well, but was glad indeed at the +prospect of seeing England and my friends again.</p> + +<p>We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower than the pass, where +we had left our baggage and many of our men who were laid up with +mountain sickness.</p> + +<p>Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by quick marches +to Almora. In conducting the inquiry for the British Government, Mr. +Larkin obtained at the frontier ample testimony of what had occurred. A +full report was sent to the Government of India, and to the Foreign +Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Government Report will +be found in the Appendix.</p> + +<p>Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had then all returned from Tibet, +were beginning to migrate to their winter homes lower down on the +mountains. When we passed the settlement many were already at work +repairing the fallen-down roofs of their winter habitations. A large +number of Tibetans with their sheep had also come over to spend the +winter on British territory. Their encampments could be seen all along +the road wherever there was sufficient grass for their flocks. The +Tibetans—Lamas and officials—maintained a high-handed and insolent +demeanor as long as we were in Bhot, which they regarded as part of +their own country, but which was in reality British soil. It must, +however, be said for them that the moment they came out of Bhot, and + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> + +had to deal with Hindoos instead of Shokas, their manner changed +considerably. Servility took the place of haughtiness and insolence.</p> + +<p>We proceeded with no delay to Almora, and from there to Naini Tal, the +summer seat of the Government of the North-West Provinces and Oudh. At +the latter place a conference was held on my case by the +Lieutenant-Governor.</p> + +<p>I paid off my faithful coolie Mansing, giving him enough for a start in +life. He accompanied me to Kathgodam, the northern terminus of the +railway. Genuine grief showed on his face when Chanden Sing and I +stepped into the train. He begged that, if ever I should go back to +Tibet, I must take him with me; only next time he, too, must be provided +with a rifle! That was the only condition. As the train steamed away +from the platform, he waved his hand affectionately.</p> + +<p>Chanden Sing, who remained as my servant, travelled with me to Bombay, +and from there we went direct to Florence, the home of my parents, who +had suffered in their anxiety at home almost as much as I did in the +Forbidden Land.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Some of the articles missing were some months later +recovered by the Government of India.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX</h2> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4"><i>Letter from</i> <span class="smcap">Sir William Lee Warner</span>, C.S.I., <i>Political and Secret +Department, India Office, London.</i></span> +</div></div> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 4.0em;"><span class="smcap">India Office, Whitehall, S.W.</span><br /></span> +<span style="padding-right: 5.0em;"><i>August 4, 1898.</i></span></p> + +<p> +<span class="smcap">Dear Sir,</span> +</p> + +<p>With reference to the request contained in your letter of the 27th, and +to your interview with me of the same day, I forward herewith for your +use a copy of Mr. Larkin's "Inquiry and report" into your treatment by +the Tibetans.</p> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 6.0em;">Yours faithfully,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 4.0em;">(Signed,) +<span class="smcap">W. Lee Warner.</span></span> +</p> + + +<p> +<span class="smcap">A. Henry Savage Landor</span>, Esq.<br /><br /> +</p> + + +<h2>GOVERNMENT REPORT BY J. LARKIN, <span class="smcap">Esq.</span>, MAGISTRATE OF THE FIRST CLASS</h2> + +<p>Mr. Arnold Henry Savage Landor having been reported to have been +captured and tortured by the Tibetans, I was sent up to Garbyang in +Byans to ascertain the facts.</p> + +<p>Mr. Landor arrived in India on the 10th of April last. He proceeded to +Almora, where he arrived on the 27th idem. He stayed there until the +10th of May, to make arrangements for his travels in Tibet. At first he +was advised to take some Gurkha soldiers with him, but this fell +through, as the military did not accede to his request. He then, on the +27th May, arrived in Garbyang in Byans <i>patti</i>. It appears to have been + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> + +his intention to have entered Tibet by the Lippu Lek Pass. This is the +easiest, being about 16,780 feet above sea-level. It is the most +frequented route taken by the traders of Byans and Chaudans, and is +adjacent to Taklakot, a mart for wool, salt, borax, grain, etc. He was, +however, frustrated in this, inasmuch as the Jong Pen of Taklakot came +to know of Mr. Landor's intention and took steps to prevent it. He +caused bridges to be destroyed and stationed guards along the route.</p> + +<p>Moreover, he appears to have been kept fully cognizant of Mr. Landor's +moves through the agency of his spies in Garbyang.</p> + +<p>Under these circumstances Mr. Landor was compelled to resort to some +other route, and selected the Lumpia Pass, which stands at an altitude +of 18,150 feet.</p> + +<p>On the 13th July last Mr. Landor, with a following of thirty men, +entered Tibet. He reached Gyanima, where he was stopped by the Barkha +Tarjum. This personage, however, after some persuasion, consented to +permit Mr. Landor and seven followers to go forward to the Mansarowar +Lake.</p> + +<p>Next day the accorded permission was withdrawn, and Mr. Landor and his +party were turned back. The party returned three marches, when Mr. +Savage Landor determined to go to Mansarowar by the unfrequented wilds.</p> + +<p>On the 21st July Mr. Landor, with nine followers, at midnight, in a +terrific snow-storm, climbed up the mountain and went off, the bulk of +his party continuing their retreat to the Lumpia Lek. By this strategic +move Mr. Landor baffled the Tibetan guards (<i>Chaukìdárs</i>). He carefully +avoided coming into contact with any of the inhabitants, and in order to +do so was obliged to keep to the high mountains and unfrequented wilds.</p> + +<p>Travelling thus, with the aid of his compass, sextant, and sketch maps, +he reached Mansarowar.</p> + +<p>Here five of his followers declined to accompany him any farther, so he +paid and dismissed them. This was at Tucker. Thus Mr. Landor was reduced +to a following of four men. He went on, however, and had accomplished +but three marches more when two more of his followers deserted him at + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> + +night. These went off with some of his supplies, all his servants' +food, and ropes.</p> + +<p>Mr. Landor was now reduced to the following of a bearer (Chanden Sing) +and a coolie (Mansing). Despite his misfortunes he determined to push +on: his intention appears to have been to reach Lhassa.</p> + +<p>He went over the Mariam La Pass.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> This attains an altitude of over +16,000 feet.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the deserters had bruited about the information of Mr. +Landor's intention of getting to Lhassa.</p> + +<p>While crossing the Neo (Tsambo) River one of Mr. Landor's yaks went +under. The yak was saved, but its valuable load, consisting of all the +tinned provisions, Rs. 800 in cash, three pairs of shoes, one +slaughtered sheep, wearing apparel, razors, skinning instruments, and +some three hundred rifle cartridges, was lost.</p> + +<p>This accident was directly the cause of Mr. Landor's capture, as he and +his two followers, who were footsore, starving, and disheartened, were +driven to seek food and horses from the inhabitants of the country. On +the 19th of August, 1897, they went to a place called Toxem. The +villagers received them well and promised to supply them with food and +horses. Next morning, the 20th idem, a number of Tibetans came to Mr. +Landor's tent, bringing food and ponies.</p> + +<p>While Mr. Landor and his servants were engaged trying and selecting +ponies, the crowd increased and came up behind its three victims.</p> + +<p>Suddenly, without any warning, the Tibetans rushed on Mr. Landor and his +two servants, and, overwhelming them by numbers, made prisoners of them. +They cruelly bound their surprised victims. Then a number of soldiers +(who had lain in ambush) arrived and took over the prisoners. The first +person to be dealt with was the bearer Chanden Sing. He was accused of +having taken his master into Tibet. He was questioned as to this, and +also as to the maps and sketches found with Mr. Landor's things. I may + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span> + +mention that when the arrests were made the Tibetans took all of Mr. +Landor's property, which they handled very roughly, damaging most of the +things. Hearing the Tibetans accuse the bearer, Mr. Landor called out +that his servant was in no way responsible for his having entered Tibet. +Thereupon a Lama struck him (Mr. Landor) a blow on the head with the +butt-end of his riding-whip. Chanden Sing was then tied down and +flogged. He received two hundred lashes with whips, wielded by two +Lamas. Then the prisoners were kept apart for the night, bound with +cords. Next day Mr. Landor was placed on a horse, seated on a spiked +pack-saddle. Mansing was put on a bare-backed horse. They still were +bound. Mr. Landor's arms were secured behind his back. Thus they were +taken off at a gallop toward Galshio. When the party were nearing that +place they came up with a party of Lamas, awaiting them by the roadside. +Here Mr. Landor's horse was whipped and urged to the front. A kneeling +soldier, his musket resting on a prop, fired at Mr. Landor as he went +past. The shot failed to take effect. Then they stopped the pony and +fastened a long cord to Mr. Landor's handcuffs. The other end was held +by a soldier on horseback. The party then continued their career, the +Lamas having fallen in. While proceeding at full gallop, the horseman +who held the cord attached to Mr. Landor's handcuffs pulled hard at it +to try and unhorse the latter. Had this occurred Mr. Lander must have +been trampled to death under the troop of horsemen behind him. Thus they +hurried onward till they neared Galshio,<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> when at a turn in the road +a soldier was seen kneeling at the "ready," who fired a shot at Mr. +Landor as he came abreast of him. This, like the previous shot, missed +its object.</p> + +<p>Arriving at Galshio, Mr. Landor was torn off his pony. He was in a +bleeding state, the spikes in the pack-saddle having severely wounded +his back. He asked for a few minutes' respite, but was jeeringly told by +his guards that it was superfluous, as he was to be beheaded in a few + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> + +minutes. He was then taken, his legs stretched as far as they could be +forced apart, and then tied to the sharp edge of a log shaped like a +prism. The cords were bound so tightly that they cut into the flesh.</p> + +<p>Then a person named Nerba, the secretary of the Tokchim Tarjum, seized +Mr. Landor by the hair of his head, and the chief official, termed the +<i>Pombo</i>, came up with a red-hot iron, which he placed in very close +proximity to Mr. Landor's eyes. The heat was so intense that for some +moments Mr. Landor felt as if his eyes had been scorched out. It had +been placed so close that it burned his nose. The <i>Pombo</i> next took a +matchlock, which he rested on his victim's forehead and then discharged +upward.</p> + +<p>The shock was consequently very much felt. Handing the empty gun to an +attendant soldier, the <i>Pombo</i> took a two-handed sword. He laid the +sharp edge on the side of his victim's neck as if to measure the +distance to make a true blow. Then wielding the sword aloft, he made it +whiz past Mr. Landor's neck. This he repeated on the other side of the +neck.</p> + +<p>After this tragic performance Mr. Landor was thrown to the ground and a +cloth put over his head and face to prevent his seeing what was being +done to his servant Mansing. This must have been done to make Mr. Landor +believe that Mansing was being executed. After a short time the cloth +was removed and Mr. Landor beheld his servant, with his legs stretched, +tied to the same log. Mr. Landor was kept for twenty-four hours in this +trying position, legs stretched as far as possible and arms bound to a +pole, and Mansing for twelve hours. To add to their misery, they were +kept in the rain and were afterward seated in a pool of water. The +effect of this torture was to strain the muscles of the legs and arms +and injure the spine.</p> + +<p>When Mr. Landor's legs were unloosed from their cords, they were so +numbed and swollen that for sixteen hours he did not recover the use of +them and feared they were mortifying. Mr. Landor's property was +overhauled by the officials of Galshio and sealed up. On the afternoon + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span> + +of the third day, at Galshio, the two prisoners were taken on foot to +Toxem. It was a very trying march, inasmuch as several rivers had to be +crossed.</p> + +<p>On his arrival at Toxem, Mr. Landor saw his bearer Chanden Sing, in a +very precarious condition, as the latter had had no food for four days. +During all this time the prisoners were firmly bound and carefully +guarded. Next day, Mr. Landor and Chanden Sing were placed on yaks. +Mansing had to walk. Thus they were taken in the direction of Mansarowar +Lake. It was only on arrival at Mansarowar that his guards unbound Mr. +Landor.</p> + +<p>Arriving at Dogmar, the party was stopped by the Jong Pen of Taklakot, +who refused to give them passage through his district. This was a very +serious affair, as it meant that the worn-out prisoners would have to be +taken by a long, circuitous route <i>via</i> Gyanima and into India by the +Lumpia Pass. This would probably have done for them. Owing to the +intervention of the Rev. Harkua Wilson, of the Methodist Episcopal +Mission, <i>Peshkár</i> Kharak Sing Pal and Pundit Gobaria, the most +influential person among the Bhutias<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> of Byans, the Jong Pen was +compelled to withdraw his prohibition and give his sanction to the +prisoners being conveyed to Taklakot.</p> + +<p>Arriving at this place the prisoners were hospitably received by the +Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is also a medical man. He examined their +injuries and attended to them. His statement discloses the dreadful +condition he found them in. The Tibetan guards made over some of Mr. +Landor's property to him at Taklakot. It was then found that much +property had not been restored. Mr. Landor had a list drawn up from +memory of his unrestored property. This list (a copy) was handed to the +Jong Pen of Taklakot.</p> + +<p>I append the list. The Jong Pen has been called upon to restore the +missing articles. He urges that the affair did not occur in his +district, and that he is in no way responsible for the loss of the +property.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span></p> + +<p>He has, however, promised to try to recover them, alleging that the +affair has been reported to a superior authority at Gartok. From what I +could gather here, it seems probable that all the missing property, save +the money, will be restored. I tried to see the Jong Pen, but he pleaded +illness and the inutility of a meeting in which he had nothing new to +disclose. This personage is notorious in these parts for his implacable +hatred to English subjects.</p> + +<p>The account of the affair as given by Mr. Savage Landor is fully borne +out by his two servants, and, moreover, the Tibetans who took part in it +did not try to hide it.</p> + +<p>In the Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent at Taklakot, before <i>Peshkár</i> Kharak +Sing, Pundit Gobaria, and a large number of Bhutias, several Tibetan +officials corroborated the whole account as related by Mr. Landor. The +man Nerba, who had held Mr. Lander's hair when about to be beheaded and +have his eyes burned out, admitted he had taken such part in the affair. +There can be no doubt that the above account is true and unexaggerated, +for the whole of Byans and Chaudans are ringing with it. The Jong Pen of +Taklakot was given ample opportunity to explain the affair, but he +declined to do so.</p> + +<p>Mr. Savage Landor held Chinese passports, and his conduct during his +stay in that country did not warrant the officials to have treated him +in the barbarous, cruel way they did. I satisfied myself, by careful +inquiry from the people here, as to how Mr. Landor behaved.</p> + +<p>He is said to have been most munificent in his dealings with all, and +invariably affable and courteous. I had seen Mr. Landor just before his +entry into Tibet, and when I met him I could scarcely recognize him, +though he had then fairly recovered from the terrible treatment he had +received. I saw the marks of the cords on his hands and feet, and they +are still visible after this lapse of time. He complains that he is +still suffering from the injury done to his spine, and fears that it may +be of a permanent nature.</p> + +<table summary="signature"> +<tr><td class="tdl"><i>October 15, 1897.</i></td> +<td> </td> +<td class="tdr"><span class="smcap">J. Larkin.</span></td></tr> +</table> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Maium Pass.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Galshio, or Gyatsho.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Bhutias, or Shokas.</p></div> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span> + +<br /><br /></p> +<div class="sidenote">All communications to Government should give the No.; date, +and subject of any previous correspondence, and should note the +Department quoted.</div> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 8.5em;">645</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 4.5em;">No. N. 277 A. of 189—.</span></p> + +<p> +<i>From</i><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">The Under-Secretary to Government</span>, N.-W. Provinces and Oudh.<br /> +<br /> +<i>To</i><br /></p> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 18.5em;"><span class="smcap">A. H. Savage Landor</span>, Esq.,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 12em;"><i>c/o</i> Messrs. <span class="smcap">Grindlay, Groom & Co.</span>,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 16em;">Bankers, Bombay.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="padding-right: 7em;"><i>Dated</i>, <span class="smcap">Allahabad</span>, <i>November 13, 1897.</i></span><br /> +<br /> +</p> + + +<div class="sidenote">Political Department.</div> +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>,</p> +<p>In reply to your letter of November 5, I am desired to send you a +printed copy of depositions recorded by Mr. Larkin as noted below:</p> + +<table summary="list"> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 1. Of yourself;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 2. Of Chanden Sing;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 3. Of Man Sing;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 4. Of Rev. Harkua Wilson;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 5. Of Pundit Gobaria;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 6. Of Kharak Sing;<br /></td></tr> +<tr><td class="tdl"> 7. Of Suna.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 15em;">I have the honor to be, Sir,<br /></span> +<span style="padding-right: 8em;">Your most obedient Servant,<br /></span> +<span style="padding-right: 10em;"><span class="smcap">H. N. Wright</span>,<br /></span> +<span style="padding-right: 6em;"><i>Under-Secretary to Government,</i><br /></span> +<span style="padding-right: 2.5em;"><i>North-Western Provinces and Oudh. N.M.</i></span> +</p> + +<p><br /></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Deposition of Chanden Sing</span>, <i>taken on the 9th day of October, 1897</i>,</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Solemn affirmation administered by me.</i><br /></p> + +<p>My name is Chanden Sing; my father's name is Bije Singh; I am by caste +Thatola; thirty-two years of age; by occupation <i>kheti</i>; my home is at +That, police station Bisot, district Almora.</p> + +<p>I took service as a bearer with Mr. Landor at Almora on the 27th or 28th +of April last. I accompanied him on his trip to Tibet. We went along +through the wilds, encountering many hardships and reached Toxem. There +I insisted on my master buying ponies to take us to Darjeeling. This +resulted in our capture, for up to then we had vigilantly kept away from + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span> + +the people. The people who brought us ponies to buy played us false. +They informed the authorities, who sent soldiers, who lay in ambush +behind the sand-hills until the crowd of horse-dealers and lookers-on, +whom we did not suspect of treachery, surrounded and seized us. We were +bound with cords by the arms (at back) and legs. My master was more +cruelly tied than we two servants. We were taken to the Raja,<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> who +accused me of having brought my master into the country. I was then +stretched out and two strong men with whips inflicted two hundred +stripes on me. I was questioned as to the maps. My master called out +that he, not I, alone understood them, and asked that I should not be +beaten. Thereupon a Lama struck him across the head and removed him to a +distance, so that I could not communicate with him. They took all our +property. Then we were kept separate for the night. I was put in a room +and my hands tied to a pole. I could not sleep with the pain I was in. +Next day my master, with his hands tied behind his back, was put on a +spiked saddle and tied by a long rope held by a horseman. He went at a +gallop surrounded by about fifty horsemen armed with guns and swords. +Man Sing, our coolie, was also taken with him. My guards informed me my +master was to be decapitated at Galshio, and that I was to be beheaded +where I was. On the fourth or fifth day my master returned. Meanwhile I +was a close prisoner, bound up, without food. When I saw my master he +was in a pitiful state. He was handcuffed with enormous cuffs, clothes +torn to rags, bleeding from his waist, feet and hands swollen. Next day +a guard on horseback took us back, bound as we were, on yaks' backs, +toward Mansarowar. There I had my cords unloosed. My master was kept +bound until we got to Tangchim. We were eventually taken to Taklakot, +where the Rev. Harkua Wilson met us and saw our condition. He attended +to our wants. My master was well-nigh at death's door. The Tibetans +returned some of my master's property, but they have kept about 475 +rupees in cash, two rifles, revolver, two files, a lot of soap, + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> + +medicine, a butterfly dodger, matches, a box of mathematical +instruments, a quantity (400) cartridges, a large box of photographic +plates and negatives, three bags. We did not molest any one, and paid +more than four times the value for any food we bought.</p> + +<p>Read over to witness.</p> + +<p class="author"> +<span style="padding-right: 15em;"><span class="smcap">J. Larkin.</span><br /> +</span></p> + + +<p>N.B.—For numerous other depositions, documents, and certificates, see +larger edition of <i>In the Forbidden Land</i>.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Raja, or King.</p> +</div> +</div> + + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<p class="center">THE END</p> + +<hr style='width: 65%;' /> + +<div class="transnote"><a name="tnotes" id="tnotes"></a> +<h3>Transcriber's note</h3> + +<p>Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. An obvious +printer error has been corrected, and it is listed below. All +other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's spelling has +been maintained.</p> + +<p>Page 223: "barrel that I made sure" changed to "barrel that +<a name="cn1" id="cn1"></a><a href="#corr1">it</a> made sure".</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> + +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN EXPLORER'S ADVENTURES IN TIBET***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 27021-h.txt or 27021-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/7/0/2/27021">http://www.gutenberg.org/2/7/0/2/27021</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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