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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Narrative of Richard Lee Mason In the Pioneer West 1819, by Richard Lee Mason.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the
+Pioneer West, 1819, by Richard Lee Mason
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer West, 1819
+
+Author: Richard Lee Mason
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2008 [EBook #27002]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PIONEER WEST ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carla Foust and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h3>Transcriber's note</h3>
+
+<p>A Table of Contents has been created for the HTML version. Minor
+punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. A few
+obvious typographical errors have been corrected, and they are indicated with
+a <a class="correction" title="like this" href="#tnotes">mouse-hover</a>
+and are also listed at the
+<a href="#tnotes">end</a>. All other inconsistencies are as in the original.
+The author's spelling has been maintained.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h2>NARRATIVE OF RICHARD LEE MASON IN</h2>
+<h2>THE PIONEER WEST, 1819</h2>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2><a name="Heartmans_Historical_Series_No_6" id="Heartmans_Historical_Series_No_6"></a>Heartman's Historical Series No. 6</h2>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="438" height="600" alt="i004" title=""></img>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h2>NARRATIVE</h2>
+<h2>OF</h2>
+<h1>RICHARD LEE MASON</h1>
+<h2>IN THE PIONEER WEST</h2>
+<h2>1819</h2>
+
+<p><br /><br /></p>
+
+<h5>One hundred and sixty copies printed for</h5>
+<h5>CHAS. FRED. HEARTMAN, New York City</h5>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h4>TO</h4>
+<h4>G. J. BARBER, Esq.</h4>
+<h4>this book is dedicated</h4>
+<h4>by</h4>
+<h4>Chas. Fred. Heartman</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h4>Number____________of 150 copies printed</h4>
+<h4>on Fabriano hand-made paper.</h4>
+<h4>Also ten copies printed on Japan Vellum.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the late fall and early winter of the year 1819 Dr. Richard Lee Mason
+made a journey from Philadelphia to Illinois, through Pennsylvania,
+Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana. Some of his adventures were remarkable, and
+these, together with his observations on the country, the towns and the
+people whom he encountered, were recorded in a diary kept by him, which
+is now in the possession of his only surviving child, a daughter, who
+resides in Jacksonville, Ill. Dr. Mason was a remarkably intelligent
+observer, and his record of the people whom he encountered in Illinois
+more than three-quarters of a century ago, not to mention his notes of
+travel in other states, is unique and valuable.</p>
+
+<p>Richard Lee Mason, whose diary is being published in <span class="smcap">The Record</span>, was
+born in Port Tobacco, Md. In 1806 he was married to Mary Hodge Cochrane.
+Seven children were born to them, of whom five lived to maturity. Soon
+after his marriage he was graduated from the medical department of the
+University of Pennsylvania. For a time he did military service in the
+war of 1812, belonging to a cavalry company called "The White Horsemen."
+For this service he was awarded a large tract of bounty land near Alton,
+Ill. It was to locate and take possession of this land that the long
+journey from Philadelphia to St. Louis was taken.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>So pleased was Dr. Mason with his "promised land" and the west country,
+that he determined to send for his family and follow his profession in
+St. Louis. This he did, and he was held in high esteem, but he did not
+live long to enjoy the reunion with his family, and the appreciation of
+friends. The hardships of his trip and exposure to malarial atmosphere
+had impaired his health, and he died in 1824, having submitted
+gracefully to the heroic treatment of the day, which admitted of much
+bleeding and blistering.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Mason was buried in a newly purchased masonic cemetery, some
+distance beyond the St. Louis city limits, in ground that is now
+Washington avenue, between Tenth and Eleventh streets. Subsequently this
+ground was found too wet for the purpose designed, and Dr. Mason's body
+was removed. It is of interest to know that he was the first mason
+interred with the honors of the order in the state of Missouri. His
+funeral was made the occasion of a grand procession, escorted by Capt.
+Archibald Gamble's troop of cavalry.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p>This record was published some twenty years ago in a newspaper
+from which this reprint is made Decoration Day, 1915.</p>
+
+<div class="author">
+H.
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+<p class="center">
+<a href="#I_Philadelphia_to_Steubenville"><b>I.&mdash;Philadelphia to Steubenville</b></a><br />
+<a href="#II_Through_Ohio_and_Kentucky"><b>II.&mdash;Through Ohio and Kentucky</b></a><br />
+<a href="#III_A_Brotherhood_of_Cutthroats"><b>III.&mdash;A Brotherhood of Cutthroats</b></a><br />
+<a href="#IV_Escape_From_the_Robber_Band"><b>IV.&mdash;Escape From the Robber Band</b></a><br />
+<a href="#V_In_Possession_of_the_Promised_Land"><b>V.&mdash;In Possession of the "Promised Land"</b></a><br />
+</p>
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="I_Philadelphia_to_Steubenville" id="I_Philadelphia_to_Steubenville"></a>I.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Philadelphia to Steubenville</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Oct. 4, 1819.&mdash;Dr. Hall and myself left Philadelphia at 1
+o'clock p. m. after taking an affectionate leave of friends and
+acquaintances. Fair and pleasant weather, and the roads very fine in
+consequence of a refreshing shower of rain which fell on the night
+previous to our setting out. After traveling twenty-two miles and
+passing some rich and well-cultivated farms we arrived at West Chester
+at 7 o'clock. West Chester contains about 600 inhabitants, several
+places of worship, a gaol, etc., etc. A man named Downey is confined in
+the gaol of this place for debt. He was once in affluence, but from
+misfortunes and some imprudence he became reduced in circumstances.
+During his confinement he determined to starve himself to death, and for
+seven days had refused nourishment of every description. Even the clergy
+waited on him and endeavored to dissuade him from his rash
+determination, offering him food of different kinds, but all without
+avail. He was able to stand. No doubt one or two more days will end his
+troubles. How long, O my country, will your cheeks con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>tinue to be
+crimsoned by the blush that must follow the plunging an innocent and
+unfortunate being, a debtor, in a dungeon, amongst murderers and
+cut-throats?</p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Oct. 5.&mdash;Left West Chester at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled a rough
+road. Passed some travelers on foot migrating to the west who were able
+to keep pace with us for a considerable distance. Breakfasted with an
+old Dutchman who, for unpolished manners and even a want of common
+politeness, surpassed in expectation even the wild men of Illinois. He
+had been a tavernkeeper for forty years. Roads rough. Lands tolerable,
+but so well farmed that the traveler is compelled in many places to
+admire them. Arrived in Strasburg at 6 o'clock p. m. Neat little
+village. Distance twenty-eight miles. Lodged at a private house near the
+village. Was treated with great civility. I was extremely sore and
+tired, riding on horseback. Saddlebags very heavy. A refreshing sleep
+fitted me for the labors of the next day.</p>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Oct. 6.&mdash;Left Mr. &mdash;&mdash; at 6 o'clock a. m. The day pleasant.
+Roads rough. Traveled nine miles and arrived at Lancaster, a large and
+handsome inland town. Inhabitants principally German, very industrious
+and good farmers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> Buildings chiefly brick. Considerable business done
+in this town. Left Lancaster, traveled ten miles and arrived at
+Columbia, situated on the bold Susquehanna, but placed without much
+taste or beauty. The bridge over the Susquehanna is the longest in the
+United States. It is placed on regular pillars for one and a quarter
+miles. Its beauty and strength reflect much credit on the designer and
+those who executed the work. Its erection has added much to the comfort
+and convenience of the public. Left Columbia 4 o'clock, and arrived at
+Little York at 6 o'clock p. m. Here the lands are rich, the inhabitants
+look healthy and appear happy and independent. The village is built with
+much taste and judgment and appears to be a place of business. No lands
+for sale for many years past in the neighborhood, but the supposed value
+about $200 per acre. The eyes of the traveler light on this part of the
+country with rapture. He would even venture to barter all his fair
+prospects in the west country, collected from travelers, for one of
+those beautiful farms to be seen every mile.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Oct. 7.&mdash;Left Little York 6 o'clock a. m., traveled
+twenty-nine miles and arrived at Gettysburg, a small village, at 5
+o'clock p. m. The inhabitants very religious. Bad roads, owing to their
+making a new turnpike. Nineteen miles to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> be finished in six weeks.
+About 300 hands employed, principally Irishmen. Delightful weather for
+traveling.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Oct. 8.&mdash;Left Gettysburg 5 o'clock a. m. Overtook and passed
+many travelers bound to the east and west. The lands only tolerable.
+Here we had the first view of the mountains, which present a romantic
+and novel scene to all who have never traveled out of the confines of
+large cities&mdash;or have never seen an object higher than a lamp-post or
+lower than a gutter. Traveled fifteen miles to breakfast on the top of
+the mountain. The landlord drunk, the fare bad and the house filled with
+company who had more the appearance of penitentiary society than
+gentlemen. Hard scuffle for breakfast. Ran an old hen down. "Moll" cut
+off the head with an ax. An old sow and a starved dog made a grab before
+the feathers were stripped. One got the head, the other the body. Then
+all hands were mustered to join in the chase, landlord and "Moll" with
+the broom, the hostler with his spade and all the boys with sticks and
+stones. In about ten minutes after hard fighting, the materials for
+breakfast were recovered, and in fifteen minutes the old hen made her
+appearance on the breakfast table, large as life. Bad appetite. Made a
+light breakfast and set out on our journey from the tavern at 10<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
+o'clock a. m. Traveled over a rough, barren, mountainous and poor
+country to McDowell's, a distance of thirty-six miles. Every traveler
+must be astonished to find persons settled on a barren and mountainous
+country, whilst there are in the United States so many million acres of
+land of the first quality unoccupied and for sale at so low a rate that
+a day laborer can in one year with prudence lay up enough to purchase
+one quarter-section&mdash;160 acres.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Oct. 9.&mdash;Left McDowell's 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over an
+extremely rugged, high and uneven range of mountains. The lands
+generally so poor not worth cultivating. Arrived at Dennis', on the old
+road, distance twenty-seven miles, near the Juniata. Breakfasted at
+Camel Town, a small village, one-half the houses taverns. Crossed the
+dreary and lofty mountains at 4 o'clock. This is called Sideling hill,
+where a Mr. McClennan was robbed on the 3d instant by the notorious
+villain and robber, D. Lewis, lately pardoned by Gov. Finley for
+forgery. McClennan had no arms, nor did he make the least resistance,
+yet one of Lewis' accomplices insisted on murdering him. He was robbed
+about 9 o'clock in the morning, and in sight of the house he breakfasted
+at. He was conducted to their camp, a little way from the road,
+threatened with death if he spoke.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> Although the stage passed full of
+passengers and several wagons in sight, he dared not give the alarm.
+After keeping him in a state of suspense for six hours and rifling his
+letters and pockets of a large sum of money, they left him. On the 8th
+instant they were taken at a little village fifty miles off, and a large
+amount of cash found on them&mdash;$2,800. The hardihood of this Lewis
+surpasses the boldness of most robbers of his day. When he and his two
+companions were found asleep they were handcuffed. One of the guards
+laid his pistol on the table, whilst Lewis was surrounded by twenty
+persons, and in a room. He knocked out the candle, seized the pistol,
+flashed at the nearest person, made his way through the crowd, outran
+them for fifty yards, and, when about to be overtaken, snapped a small
+pistol which he had concealed at his nearest pursuer. He knocked down
+the second with his handcuffs, then fell and was retaken. The poverty,
+barrenness, unevenness of this part of the country perhaps was never
+surpassed. But few homes on the road. Met a number of travelers and
+overtook some. About 4 o'clock it commenced raining. Unpleasant
+traveling. Wet to the skin. Arrived at the crossing at dark on the old
+road two miles from the turnpike. Tavern kept by Dennis. Bad house; high
+charges. Rainy night.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Oct. 10.&mdash;Left Dennis' 6 o'clock a. m. Breakfasted at a little
+village called Bloody Run. Great many travelers. Poor country. Reached
+Bedford at 2 o'clock. Whilst our horses were resting we walked to the
+celebrated springs, a distance of one and a half miles.</p>
+
+<p>These springs are romantically situated, gushing from the foot of a
+mountain. They are fitted up with great taste and beauty and offer to
+the wearied citizen a treat of retirement and enjoyment. Two of the
+houses are painted white. They are two stories high and 150 feet long.
+These springs are said to possess important medicinal properties.
+Arrived at Shellsburg at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-three miles.
+The road stony and unpleasant. Well entertained and the charge moderate.</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Oct. 11.&mdash;Left Shellsburg at 6 o'clock. Poor country, full of
+mountains. Crossed the lofty Allegheny. High ridges, deep valleys and
+steep precipices. Roads good for such steep mountains. Here one of the
+most sublime and beautiful scenes presented itself my eyes ever
+witnessed. After ascending the Allegheny nearly to the top, as far as
+human sight could reach, in every direction, there were chains of
+mountains, occasionally checkered by small farms and low bottoms,
+covered
+<a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a><a class="correction" href="#cn1" title="changed from 'wth'">with</a>
+forest trees. The cleared or culti<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>vated land has lost the
+agreeable green, owing to the season, but we were amply compensated by
+the variety of color, the beautiful tints from the scarlet to the
+lighter shades, occasionally interspersed with evergreens, which were to
+be found on the sides of the mountains amongst the great variety of
+trees. Yellow, blue, green, orange, purple, black and all the shades
+between formed ornamental curtains to those cloudlike heights. Poets and
+painters would have envied us the sight. We continued our journey to the
+top of the mountains. Breakfasted at Stolter's. Arrived at Wray's log
+house at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-eight miles. Fare bad, charges
+high, pretty females with glowing faces. After resting and having
+supped, recollected that it was this day
+<a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a><a class="correction" href="#cn2" title="changed from ''">last</a>
+week that we left home.
+Drew a long sigh for those left behind and almost involuntarily turned
+our heads to look for Philadelphia.</p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Oct. 12.&mdash;Left Wray's log house at 6 o'clock a. m. Country poor
+and mountainous. Traveled thirty-five miles. Overtook some eastern and
+southern people, men, women and children, all travelling to Illinois.
+The roads a little improved, and the land a little better in quality.
+The towering mountains disappearing and hills substituted in their
+place. This being election<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> day, passed a great many people on the road.
+All merry. Great contention between the Dutch and Irish. Arrived at a
+small village called ... where the election was held. Saw a shocking
+fight, which ended in murder. A small man knocked down by his adversary
+and his intestines literally stamped out. I pressed through the crowd,
+and insisted on bleeding the unfortunate young man. Just as I was about
+to open a vein his senses returned. He begged I would not bleed him, as
+he had never been bled. I declined the operation. He died on the 14th
+instant. Left the election and arrived at a trifling village called
+Adams Town, where we overtook a number of travelers for the west. Left
+Adams Town 6 o'clock a. m., and arrived at Pittsburg at 11 o'clock,
+Hunters' tavern. In approaching this dirty hole I felt the height of
+disappointment. Pittsburg is situated in a valley surrounded by hills
+and mountains. It is placed a short distance above the junction of the
+Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, to form the Ohio, over which there are
+two neat and lengthy bridges, built on Wernwag's plan. In approaching
+Pittsburg the traveler would suppose the town was laid in ashes by fire.
+The surrounding heights, its low situation, the fogs from the rivers,
+together with the universal use of stone coal for fires, added to the
+smoke and dust from the large number of mills<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> and manufactories, form a
+cloud which almost amounts to night, and overspreads Pittsburg with the
+appearance of gloom and melancholy. At this place we met a number of
+travelers, rich and poor, Gen. Miller and suite, straggling play actors,
+and others. Coal dust was well ground in until I might say with much
+truth that I did not see a white man or woman in the place. The more you
+wash, the blacker you get. I am confident that I carried some of this
+coal dust 1,000 miles in spite of my efforts to get rid of it.
+Convenient place for performing "Zanga" or "The Moor of Venice." Visited
+all the manufactories and curiosities of the place. Their glass
+manufactories seem to excel all others&mdash;a great treat to those who never
+saw a bottle blown. Pittsburg in appearance suggests the idea of Moscow
+smoking and in ruins. It is a town of considerable manufacturing
+importance. Its inhabitants deserve fortune and a more salubrious
+atmosphere to spend it in.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Oct. 14.&mdash;Remained this day at Hunters'. Had my good little
+horse shod. Careless smith pricked him and produced temporary lameness.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Oct. 15.&mdash;Left Pittsburg at 7 o'clock. Traveled over a poor and
+hilly country for thirty-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>six miles. Passed a few travelers bound to
+Ohio. Remarkable fact: About eight miles from Steubenville passed out of
+Pennsylvania into Virginia, out of Virginia into Ohio in the short space
+of two hours. Crossed the Ohio river after night at Steubenville.
+Stopped at Jenkinson's, an intelligent, gentlemanly, hospitable man.
+Visited the market. Beef, good, 6&frac14; cents a pound.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Oct. 16.&mdash;I omitted to mention that we, on the mountains, fell
+in with Mr. Cooper of Philadelphia, who has been our companion for
+several days. We had to part with him today, which we did with much
+reluctance, as he proved a very agreeable companion. Rainy day, fatigued
+by the broken country, determined to spend this day in Steubenville, a
+busy little village on the bank of the Ohio. Purchased a plain Jersey
+wagon and harness for $60.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="II_Through_Ohio_and_Kentucky" id="II_Through_Ohio_and_Kentucky"></a>II.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Through Ohio and Kentucky</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Oct. 18.&mdash;Myself and friend proceeded on our journey. We arrived
+at Siers, a distance of thirty miles, at dusk, much relieved by the
+change from our horses to the wagon. The roads were muddy, the weather
+drizzly and the country hilly. Buildings indifferent. The land very
+fer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>tile and black. Trees uncommonly tall. Passed the little village of
+Cadis. In this country a tavern, a store, a smith shop and two or three
+cabins make a town. Passed ten or fifteen travelers. Great contrast
+between the quality of the land from Chambersburg to Pittsburg, and that
+which we have already traveled over from Steubenville in Ohio.</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Oct. 19.&mdash;Left Siers at 6 o'clock a. m. The morning fair and
+cold. Roads extremely rough. Country fertile, but hilly. Log cabins,
+ugly women and tall timber. Passed a little flourishing village called
+Freeport, settled by foreigners. Yankee Quakers and mechanics.
+Remarkable, with two taverns in the village, there was nothing fit to
+drink, not even good water. The corn fields in the woods among dead
+trees and the corn very fine. We arrived at Adairs, a distance of
+twenty-seven miles, at 6 o'clock p. m. Passed some peddlers and a few
+travelers. Value of land from Steubenville to Adairs from $2 to $30 per
+acre. Lots in Freeport, eighteen months old, from $30 to $100. This day
+being Monday and the end of the second week since leaving home, our
+feelings were warm and our hearts beat high for those that are dear and
+behind us.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Oct. 20.&mdash;Left Adairs at 6 o'clock a. m. The country extremely
+hilly and not quite so fertile. Independent people in log cabins. They
+make their own clothes, sugar and salt, and paint their own signs. They
+picture a lion like a dove, a cat like a terrapin, and Gen. Washington
+like a bird's nest. Salt wells and sugar orchards are common in this
+country. Steep hills, frightful precipices, little or no water, and even
+a scarcity of new whisky. Ragged and ignorant children and but little
+appearance of industry. Met a number of travelers inclining to the east,
+and overtook a larger number than usual bound to the land of promise.
+The evening being rainy, the roads soon became muddy. We arrived at
+Silver's Travelers' Rest at 6 o'clock. Distance twenty-nine miles.
+Passed a little village called Cambridge.</p>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Oct. 21.&mdash;Left Silver's at 7 o'clock and breakfasted at
+Zanesville, a very growing and flourishing village. It is situated on
+the Muskingum river, which is navigable for flat-bottomed boats.
+Zanesville is a lively and busy little town. There are several mills and
+manufactories in and at the place. Neat bridges and a canal cut at great
+labor and expense through a solid rock for a considerable distance, by
+which very important water power is gained. Left<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> Zanesville and
+traveled twenty-three miles to a village called Somerset. The country
+very hilly and the lands not so fertile as those met with near Cadis.
+Rain continues. Roads extremely slippery. Met and overtook about sixty
+travelers, many on foot&mdash;Scotch, Irish, and Yankees. Oats, 25 cents;
+butter, 12&frac12; cents; brandy, 50 cents a half-pint; hay, $8 a ton.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Oct. 22.&mdash;Left Somerset at 7 o'clock a. m. Dull, drizzly
+weather. Deep roads. Horse lame in consequence of bad shoeing in
+Pittsburg. Heart a little heavy. Thought of home. Rallied again and
+arrived at a neat little town at the foot of a hill. It is called New
+Lancaster. Distance, eighteen miles. Stopped on the road for refreshment
+and found a Pennsylvania family whose kindness and hospitality deserve
+mention, as we had been denied water and sometimes other refreshments by
+the almost wild inhabitants west of Pittsburg to this place. Some brick
+houses and a few neat frame dwellings to be seen in the last two days'
+ride.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Oct. 23&mdash;Left New Lancaster at 8 o'clock and arrived at
+Chillicothe, a distance of thirty-four miles. Passed some elegant farms
+and some neat dwellings. The people appear more polite and better
+educated. Chillicothe is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> situated on the Sciota, a stream navigable for
+flat-bottomed boats. The bridge over the Sciota is long, substantial and
+handsome. Chillicothe is a town of considerable business for its size.
+One of the branches of the United States bank is at this place. The bank
+was entered lately by a man named Harper, acting under the authority of
+the state, and a large amount of money was taken out. Harper and his
+attendants in gaol. Mob threatens to release them. Bank of the United
+States and all its branches are much abused by the inhabitants and some
+very impudent threats made. When the bank was entered by Harper no
+resistance was made by its officers. Passed Tarlton and Kingston, two
+inconsiderable villages.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Oct. 24.&mdash;Left Chillicothe at 7 o'clock a. m. Arrived at
+Sinking Springs, a little village, after traveling a distance of
+thirty-three miles. Passed over some rich bottoms, neat farms and very
+fertile prairies. A few poor ridges, part level, part mountainous.
+People look healthy, but are extremely impudent and lazy. Game is
+abundant deer, turkeys, partridges and squirrels.</p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Oct. 25.&mdash;Left Sinking Springs at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled to
+West Union, a little village. Distance twenty-three miles. Lands of
+three qualities, broken, barren and mountainous.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> Miserable log huts.
+Inhabitants more polite and civil. Crossed Brush creek at the foot of a
+small mountain. At this place met some travelers, among them some
+Philadelphians. The inhabitants in this part of the country generally
+emigrants. Real Ohios, real savages in appearance and manners, destitute
+of every degree of politeness. Not uncommon for a man to follow three or
+four occupations. For example, John Noble follows both tailoring and
+saddlering. My barber is also a waiter on the table, assistant cook and
+hostler. In this town one man is a lawyer, a merchant and an apothecary.</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Oct. 26.&mdash;Left West Union at 10 o'clock a. m. My friend having
+business here, we lost one day. Traveled over a poor, hilly and
+mountainous country for seventeen miles and arrived at Limestone.
+Crossed the Ohio in a horse-boat and landed at Maysville, Ky., at 5
+o'clock p. m., bidding a willing adieu to Ohio, not leaving behind a
+single individual whom we ever wished to see again. I must confess from
+the many favorable representations made of the habits, manners and state
+of society and quality of the lands in the state of Ohio, I was prepared
+to meet a different soil and a different people from those just left.
+Before I take a final leave of Ohio I must mention an occurrence that
+transpired a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> few days previous to our arrival in New Lancaster. Ten or
+fifteen friendly Indians were traveling from near New York to visit
+their red brethren in the west. They were poor, but peaceable and well
+behaved. When they were within about twenty-five miles of New Lancaster
+three of the Indians were unable to keep up with the leading party, a
+man, a young squaw and a child. Those unoffending and unfortunate people
+were waylaid by three monsters in human shape, ruffians belonging to the
+neighborhood. They lay hid until those three Indians got in a rake, and
+then fired upon them, intending to kill all at the same shot. The child
+and man escaped unhurt, but the unfortunate female had her thigh broken
+and received a ball in the abdomen. No hope was entertained of her
+recovery. The villains were taken and committed to prison. The only
+reason given by them for committing this extraordinary outrage was that
+during the war the Indians had murdered in battle some of their
+connections or relatives.</p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Oct. 27.&mdash;Maysville is a growing little village, situated on
+the Ohio and reaching in a southerly direction to the foot of a small
+mountain. Left Maysville at 6 o'clock a. m. and arrived four miles
+beyond the Blue Licks at 5 o'clock, a distance of thirty miles. Passed
+Wash<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>ington, May Licks and some smaller villages. Some good land, some
+very poor. Country mountainous and stony. Great difficulty in obtaining
+meat or drink during the day, although taverns are plenty. The Blue
+Licks are rude, uncultivated, stony barrens, poor beyond description and
+extremely difficult to travel over. Passed several dead horses on the
+road. An infectious disease called the sore tongue had produced their
+deaths, and was to be found at every stable for hundreds of miles. Men,
+cows, hogs and sheep were subject to it. Being tired, hungry and
+disappointed in the appearance of the country, I retired to bed early.
+On the 25th inst. the ground was covered with snow. Little or no rain
+had fallen in this part of the country for near six months. Many creeks
+nearly dry. Great difficulty in obtaining water to drink. Passed some
+salt springs and wells. Salt $2.50 per bushel, coffee 50 cents per
+pound. Those prices will sound very high to the merchants of
+Philadelphia.</p>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Oct. 28.&mdash;Left Artis' tavern, thirty miles from Maysville, at
+7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over a very fertile country, a distance of
+seventeen miles, and arrived at a neat little town called Paris. Passed
+some handsome houses. Saw many negroes. They were ragged, foolish, and,
+in appearance, miserable. Paris, as a town, has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> some claim to beauty.
+It is placed on an eminence. Many of the houses are brick and of
+handsome shape. There is constantly that stir and bustle which denotes a
+place of business. The country around is fertile, and, although there is
+no navigable stream near, the eye is prevented from falling too heavily
+on the neighboring fields and valleys by the winding of a small stream,
+upon which there is a busy-looking mill.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"How often have I paused on every charm&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;The sheltered cot, the cultivated farm,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;The never-failing brook, the busy mill,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;The decent church that topped the neighboring hill."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>In this little town we met a hearty welcome. The inhabitants are polite
+and hospitable. The singular variety which is to be found in the human
+family by a traveler is difficult to be described. Indeed, every hundred
+miles would take a small volume. Straggling play-actors and tightrope
+dancers had found their way to Paris, besides other amusements which
+were to be found in this sprightly little town, which had a tendency to
+make our time pass very agreeably. On Wednesday night at 11 o'clock, I
+was called to visit Miss Craughan, sister of Col. Craughan, an old
+acquaintance. I found her dangerously ill with quinsy. Large bleedings
+and some other medi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>cines gave relief. Was compelled to leave her and
+proceed on my journey. Heard of her recovery. Interesting lady.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Oct. 29.&mdash;Left Thorgmorton's tavern at 9 o'clock a. m. Good
+roads; fair weather; generous people; good land and neat dwellings.
+Dined in Lexington, a town of considerable size, and a place of great
+business. Saw large numbers of country people dealing in stores. Met and
+overtook but few travelers the last three or four days. Traveled this
+day thirty-two miles to Cole's. The lands not so fertile and a little
+hilly.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Oct. 30.&mdash;Left Cole's at 6 o'clock a. m. Breakfasted at
+Frankfort, the seat of the government of Kentucky. It is situated in a
+deep valley near a stream, surrounded with high and uneven hills, and at
+a distance, from its shape and situation, it resembles a garden laid off
+in squares. A very handsome bridge, neatly painted, is thrown across the
+Kentucky river, which, together with some public buildings erected with
+considerable taste, assist much in enlivening and adding beauty and
+elegance to the appearance of the town. Left Frankfort at 9 o'clock.
+Crossed the Kentucky river, which was only three feet wide, owing to the
+uncommon drought. Foot passengers were crossing on a rail.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> Passed
+through Shelbyville, a small village. Many creeks, rivers and branches
+entirely dry. Every animal suffering for water. The farmers compelled to
+cart a sufficient quantity to support life, many miles. No water to be
+obtained in the village for our horses. Fortunately we were enabled to
+purchase some on the road. Traveled twenty-nine miles to Smith's. Lands
+rich. Country broken on the old road. Deep valleys. Frightful
+precipices. Beech woods. Large trees. Good corn. Warm and dry weather.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Oct. 31.&mdash;Left Smith's at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over a very
+rich and flat country. Passed through Middletown, and at 4 o'clock
+arrived at Louisville, after traveling twenty-eight miles. This day
+being Saturday, and having met some old friends and acquaintances, a
+party was made up to visit the Louisville theater. Philadelphia being
+the theater for all great performers, curiosity was on tip-toe to view
+the players of Louisville. The theater is a neat little building. It was
+but thinly attended, owing to the pressure of the times. The play was
+"Wives as They Were and Maids as They Are," Mr. Drake and Mrs. Grochong
+supporting the principal characters. Their persons, features, voices and
+gestures were fine, appearing to possess the nicest feelings and
+tenderest sympathies, and,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> in my opinion, they were well suited to a
+better stage. The play better performed than expected. Indeed, I may say
+well performed, if I may be permitted to add there was more than one of
+the actors who was unfeeling, unmeaning, made of wood and more like a
+gate-post than an animated being. This had the happiest of effects, for
+after shedding tears of grief at interesting parts of the play they were
+kept flowing with laughter at those ridiculous performers making tragedy
+into comedy. Louisville is a flourishing town immediately on the banks
+of the Ohio. The town and business principally confined to one street.
+The inhabitants are polite, hospitable and live fast.</p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Nov. 1.&mdash;This day was spent in visiting a family near
+Louisville, friends of my youthful days, whom I had not seen for
+eighteen years. As I approached the dwelling, happy days that are never
+to return, pleasant hours, youthful, happy and blooming faces, joyous
+scenes and many dear moments, flashed suddenly across my mind. But judge
+of my disappointment on meeting the remains of this amiable family. I
+will not attempt to express feelings that in the human language know no
+description. Mrs. M&mdash;&mdash;, a truly good woman, had been borne to that
+shore "from whence no traveler returns." Her daugh<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>ter, who was the
+admiration of all that knew her, soon followed. The remains of the
+family which eighteen years ago was young and fashionable, elegant and
+beautiful, had become sedate, crooked, wrinkled and even gray. To
+witness the ravages of time produced a gloom which lasted several days.
+I took an affectionate leave of them, never expecting to see them again.</p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Nov. 3.&mdash;Remained in Louisville Monday and part of today. Left
+Aleen's the 2d. Passed through Shipping Port, on the bank of the Ohio,
+two and one-half miles below Louisville. A very promising little
+village. Twelve or thirteen steamboats lying at this place aground,
+owing to the unusual drought. Curiosity induced me to go on board the
+largest steamboat in the world, lying at this place. She is called the
+United States, and is owned by a company of gentlemen. I have taken down
+her dimensions: Length of keel, 165 feet 8 inches; depth of hold, 11
+feet 3 inches; breadth of beam and girder, 56 feet; length on deck, 176
+feet 8 inches; breadth of beam without girder, 37 feet. This mammoth
+boat has eight boilers and elegant accommodations for a large number of
+passengers. Many of the steamships lying at this place are built on
+improved plans and are very handsome. We crossed the Ohio at a point
+where it is three-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>quarters of a mile wide. Passed through New Albany,
+Ind., a little village inhabited by tavernkeepers and mechanics.
+Traveled to Miller's, a distance of six miles over the knobs. Country
+very much broken. Some steep hills and sugar-loaf knobs. The woods being
+on fire, a scene truly sublime presented itself at night. The lands
+indifferent. Weather warm and dry. Passed many travelers bound to the
+west, and met three or four wagons with families returning from the
+promised land. Slept in a house without glass in the windows and no
+fastenings to the doors. The inhabitants impudent and lazy beyond
+example. Supped on cabbage, turnips, pickles, beets, beefsteak made of
+pickled beef, rye coffee and sage tea. The people of Indiana differ
+widely from Kentuckians in habits, manners and even dialect. Whilst
+hospitality, politeness and good sense characterize Kentuckians,
+ignorance, impudence and laziness has stamped the Indianians.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="III_A_Brotherhood_of_Cutthroats" id="III_A_Brotherhood_of_Cutthroats"></a>III.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Brotherhood of Cutthroats</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Nov. 3, 1819.&mdash;Left Miller's tavern at 7 o'clock and arrived
+at Squire Chambers' at 6 o'clock, after traveling a distance of
+thirty-six miles. Passed a trifling village, Fredericksburg; also
+Greenville. A poor, barren, deserted country. For ten miles, stony,
+poor, mountainous and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> naked. Land a little better. Miserable huts, poor
+accommodations, cabin taverns, and high charges. Crossed Blue river.
+Every man his own hostler and steward. Plenty of game&mdash;deer, turkeys,
+etc. Inhabitants generally possess a smaller share of politeness than
+any met with before.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Nov. 4.&mdash;Left Squire Chambers' (who is only member of the
+assembly, by the by) at 7 o'clock a. m. Arrived at Lewis' at 6 o'clock,
+a distance of twenty-five miles. Passed a little village called Peola.
+The fact that this part of Indiana is a late purchase by the United
+States, accounts for its towns being so inconsiderable and being made up
+of log houses. The lands here are very fertile, the country mountainous
+and broken. Traveled twenty-five miles through woods and passed but four
+houses. With great difficulty obtained water for our horses. In the
+midst of one of those long and thick pieces of woods, we passed one of
+the most miserable huts ever seen&mdash;a house built out of slabs without a
+nail; the pieces merely laid against a log pen such as pigs are commonly
+kept in, a dirt floor, no chimney. Indeed, the covering would be a bad
+one in the heat of summer, and, unfortunately, the weather at this time
+is very severe for the season of the year. This small cabin contained a
+young and interesting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> female and her two shivering and almost starving
+children, all of whom were bare-headed and with their feet bare. There
+was a small bed, one blanket and a few potatoes. One cow and one pig
+(who appeared to share in their misfortunes) completed the family,
+except for the husband, who was absent in search of bread. Fortunately
+for the dear little children, we had in our carriage some bread, cheese,
+toddy, etc., which we divided with them with much heartfelt
+satisfaction. In this situation the woman was polite, smiled and
+appeared happy. She gave us water to drink, which had been refused to us
+by persons on the road several times during the day. What a lesson for
+many of the unhappy ladies that inhabit large cities, whose husbands are
+slaves to procure all the luxuries of life, a fine house, carpeted
+floors, elegant furniture, fine carriages and horses, gay and cheerful
+company, and a smooth brick pavement or marble to walk upon! Yet they
+are too often dissatisfied, and are sighing for that which cannot be
+obtained. Could they but contrast their situation with this ragged,
+suffering and delicate female, they would have just cause to be happy,
+and would be under the strong conviction that Providence does not
+interfere with the common affairs of this life. Traveled over excellent
+lands not taken up which could be cleared with very little labor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Nov. 5.&mdash;Left Mr. Sears' at 7 o'clock, after having slept in a
+cabin with three wagons. My friend and self treated civilly by the
+family. The house not close enough to keep the cats and dogs out.
+Traveled over an extremely mountainous country to White river (east
+fork), where a town was laid out last May. Promising little place.
+Several houses building together, with the industrious appearance of saw
+and grist mills, give it the appearance of a place of business. Little
+town is called Hindoostan. In this part of the country the woods are
+large, the hills bold and lofty, and there is an abundance of bears,
+wolves, wildcats, panthers, etc. Thousands of acres of land of the first
+quality are unsettled and to be purchased at from $2.50 to $5 an acre.
+In crossing White river we had to descend a very steep precipice above
+the falls, in effecting which my friend, Dr. Hill, who happened to be
+driving our little carriage, was thrown headforemost into the river.
+Part of our baggage followed him, and the carriage was very near
+upsetting. However, we forded this elegant stream, which is 200 yards
+wide, without much difficulty. After halting a few minutes on the bank
+to examine our bruises and adjust our baggage, we proceeded on our
+journey. Traveled a distance of eighteen miles to the west branch of
+White river, which we forded without risk, the bottom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> being hard and
+rocky. Traveled over a fertile country four miles to Steenz, making a
+distance of thirty-four miles. At this dirty hovel, with one room and a
+loft, formed by placing boards about three inches apart, ten travelers
+slept. There were thirteen in family, besides two calves, making in all,
+with my friend and self, twenty-three whites, one negro and two calves.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Nov. 6.&mdash;Supped on pumpkins, cabbages, rye coffee without
+sugar, bones of venison, salted pickles, etc.&mdash;all in the midst of
+crying children, dirt, filth and misery. The last entertainment made the
+first serious unfavorable impression on my mind relative to the west.
+Traveled six miles to breakfast and to entertain an idea of starving. No
+water, no food fit to eat, dusty roads and constantly enveloped in a
+cloud of smoke, owing to the woods and prairies being on fire for 100
+miles. Breakfasted on sound provisions for a rarity and felt a little
+refreshed. This part of Indiana is rich and valuable. Corn and oats 50
+cents a bushel. My good little horse being sick, my usual flow of
+spirits commenced a retreat. However, they were soon rallied again after
+a few long sighs for those that are dear and far from me. Arrived at
+Vincennes, on the Wabash, a bold and handsome river, the size of the
+Schuylkill. Vincennes, an ancient town, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> small, ugly and meanly
+built, although beautifully situated. Its inhabitants are French,
+Americans, Indians&mdash;and, in short, persons from the four corners of the
+earth. Indian mounds or small round hills are common in this country.
+They are believed to be the work of art, and from bones and so forth
+which have been found in them are supposed to have been receptacles for
+the dead, when none but the footsteps of the savage was to be traced in
+these forests. We are now within a few miles of the Shakers and
+Harmonites, whom we intend to visit and give a correct account of. Very
+much revived this day, having lived well. Necessity is often the mother
+of invention. Yolk of egg, flour and water mixed is a good substitute
+for milk, and is often used in coffee in this country. Rye is frequently
+substituted for coffee and sage tea in place of the imperial.</p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Nov. 7.&mdash;Left Vincennes at 7 o'clock. Crossed the meandering
+stream, Wabash, into Illinois. This river abounds in fish, ducks and
+geese. Traveled thirty-seven miles over rich and elegant prairies.
+Passed but very few houses in this distance. Our poor horses and
+ourselves almost famished for water. Traveled eighteen miles without a
+drop, and then compelled to use it out of a stagnant pool, where
+thousands of in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>sects considered the water private property. Arrived at
+McDermott's, on the Fox river. Obtained a list of cutthroats and
+murderers, whose names are as follows on the list: Gatewood, Rutherford,
+Grimberry, Cain, Young, Portlethwaite, etc. This chain of villains
+extended for eighty miles through all the dreary and lonesome prairies.
+We were informed that when they were not engaged in robbing or murdering
+they were very industriously employed in manufacturing bank notes, which
+they imposed on travelers at every opportunity. It may be worthy of
+remark that all the country for forty miles around where these banditti
+have taken possession belongs to the United States. For the convenience
+of travelers, a new road has been made through this country, instead of
+going by Shawneetown, and those villains have posted themselves along
+the road under the name of tavernkeepers, watching for their prey
+whenever it may pass. Indeed, I conceive it impossible for any man who
+has cash enough to make him worth killing to travel this road alone.
+Called to see Gatewood, the first man on the list of cutthroats. He was
+from home. Saw his wife, a handsome, young dejected-looking woman, who
+appeared very uneasy at her husband's being inquired for by a man almost
+as well armed and not much out of the style of Robinson Crusoe. Saw a
+bloody cravat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> on the end of the log of which his house was built. We
+intend to call and see the balance of the fraternity out of curiosity.
+Traveled over prairies just burned and through woods on fire. Smoke and
+dust, together with the want of water, almost produced suffocation,
+families sending miles for water to drink. The prairies extend for
+miles, indeed, as far as the eye can reach, level as a plank floor. The
+soil generally is a bed of manure, the land uncultivated and without any
+person to claim it. The few inhabitants found in this part of the
+country are impolite, lazy and disobliging. Passed many families
+traveling to the west, and met a few bound to the east. There has been
+no rain in this part of the country for near seven months. Many of the
+farmers have lost stock in consequence of the drought. A few years ago
+this part of Illinois was inhabited only by the rude and uncivilized
+savage. The scalping knife and tomahawk, graced their bark dwellings and
+were often used in the most inhuman manner. The murdering of women and
+children whom they viewed as their enemies was not an uncommon
+occurrence. But who could have believed that when the red men of the
+forest had retired from this beautiful country their places would have
+been supplied by persons whose characters would be softened by the
+appellation of savage&mdash;penitentiary outcasts and murderers? Who could<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+believe that a human being could be so depraved as to fall upon a
+defenseless and unoffending traveler and murder him under the pretence
+of sheltering him from the storm and giving him a hearty welcome at his
+table? Who could believe that even devils in human shape could cut the
+throats of two traveling strangers to obtain two watches, $80 and a pair
+of saddle-bags? I shudder at the blackness of the crime. It occurred
+only yesterday, and we are at this moment near the spot where the horrid
+deed was committed. Two other murders have lately been committed near
+this place. A stranger was found hung on a tree and a traveler was
+murdered near Shawneetown by the same men whose names have been
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>During last summer a traveler was found murdered near one of those
+prairies, but he had been dead so long it was impossible to ascertain
+who he was.</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Nov. 8.&mdash;Left Dermott's at 7 o'clock. Crossed a prairie five
+miles wide. Met with a new species of game called prairie hens. They are
+very much like the pheasant, and I am of the opinion they are the
+grouse. Plenty of deer and turkeys. Crossed a prairie twelve miles broad
+and arrived at the house of Rutherford, the second man on the cutthroat
+list. We had time<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> enough to pass this house, but having a list of
+desperadoes, and being disappointed in seeing Gatewood, curiosity
+induced us to spend the night. This was a piece of comedy for
+information which was near ending in tradegy. Our traveling party
+consisted of four persons, Dr. Hill, myself and two young men,
+strangers, from Kentucky. As we traveled in a little carriage, and with
+a pair of horses, we placed our fellow-travelers' baggage with our own,
+which made a considerable show. On our arrival a man dressed like a
+Quaker pretended to be hostler until he ascertained the quantity of our
+baggage. I recognized him as an engraver from Philadelphia, who had been
+a candidate for the penitentiary for forgery. We called for the
+landlord, and were informed by Mrs. Rutherford that he was from home,
+but we could be well entertained and made comfortable in every way. Mrs.
+R. is a young and beautiful woman, possessing a delicacy of features and
+an elegance of shape, but seldom to be met with in those cabins of
+misery. The lily and the rose appeared to vie with each other to gain
+the ascendency on her cheeks. Her teeth were even, beautifully white and
+well placed. Her hair curled in irregular ringlets down her neck. She
+smiled on all. Her eyes were quick, black, sparkling and full of
+impudence and bold and disagreeable looks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O woman, if by simple wile<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">&nbsp;Thy soul has strayed from honor's track,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;'Tis mercy only can beguile,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">&nbsp;By gentle ways, the wanderer back.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;Go, go, be innocent and live!<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">&nbsp;The tongues of men may wound thee sore,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;But heaven in pity can forgive,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">&nbsp;And bids thee go and sin no more."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>We spent our time very agreeably for about two hours. My friend was so
+much fascinated with this western beauty that I began to conclude his
+common stock of gallantry had much improved since his arrival in this
+fertile country. Indeed, they appeared mutually pleased and the fleeting
+hours seemed almost too short for the full enjoyment of each other's
+conversation. Myself and fellow-travelers enjoyed their mirth and jokes.
+Little did my friend dream a frightful cloud was hovering over him which
+threatened to darken all his bright prospects. We were suddenly startled
+by the shrill Indian warwhoop, which proceeded from a thicket near the
+house. It may not be amiss to mention here this warwhoop was what my
+friend had never heard before. It appeared to pass over his frame like
+an electrical shock, and from his being an elegant man, six feet high,
+and in a lover's attitude, he was reduced to about three feet in height,
+with knees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> as high as his chin and the points of his shoulders higher
+than his head. In this situation he prespired very freely. We were not
+kept long in a state of suspense. Rutherford and three sturdy fellows,
+armed, entered the house, all half-drunk. They took no notice of us, but
+eyed our baggage, which was heaped on the floor. They drank freely of
+whisky, and appeared in fine spirits. As one of our companions was
+passing a small log house, in which food was kept, he heard men
+whispering, which he informed me of. I immediately got a candle.
+Searched the house, but did not see any person. However, as I was
+returning, I found two tall men hid in the chimney, who, on being spoken
+to, went into the house, making six all together, and most of them very
+tall. They were armed with rifles and butcher knives, without coats or
+hats, their sleeves rolled up, their beards long and their faces
+smutted, such as the bravos are represented in the play of "The
+Foundling of the Forest." We had been anxious to see some of these
+banditti, but we did not contemplate seeing so large a company or having
+so full a visit from the fraternity. Rutherford disguised himself and
+denied that he was landlord, or that he lived at the place. It was not
+long before we were informed of the business of those devil-like looking
+visitors. Some of their private consultations were overheard. Robbery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
+and murder was contemplated. They would frequently whisper and pinch
+each other, wink, eye us, then hunch each other and give a number of
+private signals which we did not understand. One observed "the trap door
+was too open," "that the boards were too wide apart," in a loud tone of
+voice. The reply was: "By G&mdash;&mdash;, it should be screwed up tight enough
+before morning!" They often mentioned the names of the cut-throats we
+had on our list as their particular friends and associates. They also
+spoke of the two men who had been murdered the day before, and
+acknowledged that they ate their last meal in the house we were in.
+Laughed at the manner in which the throats of one of these unfortunate
+men was cut, and many other circumstances which would swell this
+memorandum too much. Convinced us beyond a doubt they were of the
+banditti that had been described to us. Our own safety now became a
+matter of serious consideration, and our party of four held a
+consultation after the robbers' consultation was over (which was held in
+the dark a little way from the house). The two strangers that we
+overtook on the road were firm-spirited, and declared we would die side
+by side or conquer if attacked. I am almost ashamed to add that a man
+whom I have named as friend in my memorandum, whom I have known for
+years, and with whom I had traveled 1,000 miles, ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>pressed himself to
+the following effect: "By G&mdash;&mdash;, instead of joining us he would take
+care of himself!" and insinuated that he would join the strongest side,
+and immediately went into the house and placed himself among the
+ruffians.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IV_Escape_From_the_Robber_Band" id="IV_Escape_From_the_Robber_Band"></a>IV.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Escape From the Robber Band</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Nov. 8, 1819.&mdash;The disappointment experienced from the unmanly
+conduct of Dr. Hill had a happy effect on our little company. It bound
+us more firmly and nearer together, and, I may add with truth, almost
+fitted us for the field of battle. The hour of 9 o'clock had now
+arrived, the night uncommonly dark and cloudy. On our going into the
+house one of the strangers went into the yard and gave the Indian
+warwhoop three times very loud. About 10 o'clock they took their six
+rifles, went into the yard with a candle and shot them off one by one,
+snuffing the candle at forty yards every shot. They then loaded afresh,
+primed and picked their flints. A large horn was then taken from the
+loft and blown distinctly three times very loud. All those signals
+(which we had been told of) brought no more of the company. They then
+dispatched two of their own party, who were gone until 12 o'clock. They
+stated to their comrades "they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> could not be had." It may be readily
+imagined, after what we had overhead, seeing such preparations and
+observing many of their private signals, being warned of our danger
+previous to stopping at the house, together with the recent and cruel
+murders which had been committed, in a strange country, where every man
+made and executed his own law to suit himself&mdash;I say it cannot be a
+matter of wonder that our situation began to put on a character of the
+most unpleasant kind. However, we were well armed, having pistols,
+dirks, knives and a gun, and were determined, if necessity should
+require, to be murdered in the house, and not to be dragged into the
+woods, there to have our throats cut. It being a little after 12 o'clock
+the bravos proposed to take a drink and lie down on the floor to rest,
+which they did, and upon their arms. The house being very small they
+almost covered the floor of one room. The small back room was intended
+for us. There was no door to the partition, and the logs were about six
+inches apart. We were under some apprehension that in case of an attack
+they would be able to fire on us through the logs. After they were all
+still, myself and companions lay down in reach of each other, our
+clothes on, our dirks unsheathed, the guards off our pistols and three
+extra bullets in our gun, and agreed if a signal was given to fight the
+good fight. I had like to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> have forgotten Dr. Hill. He had placed
+himself on the far side of the bed upon which I lay and had got out of
+the wall a small log, but not of sufficient size in case of accident to
+allow him to make his escape. Although the evening was cool the drops of
+sweat stood upon his forehead as large as peas. He complained of great
+pain about the kidneys and that his head hung loose upon his shoulders.
+Knowing those fellows were expert at cutting throats, from their
+conversation on that subject, I determined to put them to as much
+trouble as possible. Took off my cravat and twisted my silk handkerchief
+and tied it round my neck. In this situation we spent the night. We lay
+on our arms ready for the word. But little sleep. When they would move
+we did the same. If they coughed we followed the example. In this
+dreadful way the night was spent. I have no hesitation of declaring that
+if we had not been well armed or kept a strict watch we should have been
+robbed and murdered, and nothing but the fear of our killing a part of
+them kept their hands off. Could they have added to their numbers by
+their signals, our fate would have been certain. It is probable the
+balance of their party was engaged in some other enterprise. About the
+break of day the signal of rising was given by our visitors. We were on
+our feet in a minute, and our hands upon our arms. Three of them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
+examined their rifles, and, after having some conversation with their
+comrades, proceeded up the road we had to travel. I presumed to place
+themselves behind trees and fire upon us without the risk of being
+killed. We lost no time in placing our baggage in our carriage and
+getting ready to leave this robbers' den. After paying our bill and
+being ready for a start, one of the brotherhood begged I would take my
+saddlebags into the house again; that he wanted a dose of medicine for
+one who was very sick. This I declined doing, suspecting his object, and
+advised him to call on some person with whom he was better acquainted.
+We then bid adieu to Mr. Rutherford, his family, the banditti and the
+edge of the twelve-mile prairie. We had not traveled more than half a
+mile when we fell in with four travelers going to St. Louis, which
+increased our number to eight persons, and placed us out of danger. In
+making a memorandum of this unpleasant transaction, many important
+circumstances and some facts have been omitted. To have given a full
+detail would have taken more time than is in my power to devote at this
+time.</p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Nov. 9.&mdash;Traveled forty-two miles from Rutherford's to
+McCart's, a tolerably respectable house, which is a rare thing in this
+part of the country. Large prairies, one twenty-two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> miles wide. Rich
+land, but of little value, the proportion of timber being too small,
+water being scare and its situation remote. Crossed the Okaw or
+Kaskaskia river and two branches of Silver creek on the 10th and 11th
+days of the month; distance, fifty-four miles. Arrived at the town of
+Illinois, on the Mississippi, a little village opposite St. Louis. We
+crossed part of the American bottom, which has the appearance of once
+having been the bed of some lake or river. It abounds in marine
+substances. It is bounded by high and rocky cliffs from 100 to 300 feet
+in height. The marks washed in these cliffs centuries ago at high and
+low water mark are plain to be seen. The American bottom is about 120
+miles long and from two to seven miles in breadth; contains some creeks
+and lakes; is perfectly level, without a stump or root. Soil, ten feet
+deep, black as ink, very light, and I think I may add without the fear
+of contradiction that it is the richest land in the world. The town of
+Illinois is on part of the American bottom, which is low, flat and
+unhealthy. Bilious fevers in all their various shapes are to found in
+almost every family for forty miles around. More pale and
+deathly-looking faces seen in the last two days than I have even seen in
+Philadelphia in two months. Crossed over the bold river Illinois to St.
+Louis and bid adieu for the present to Illinois.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> So far much
+disappointed in the inhabitants, but not in the land. Illinois is the
+hiding place for villains from every part of the United States, and,
+indeed, from every quarter of the globe. A majority of the settlers have
+been discharged from penitentiaries and gaols or have been the victims
+of misfortune or imprudence. Many of those will reform, but many, very
+many, are made fit for robbery and murder. High as our country stands
+above others for its perfection, yet it has curses which at times
+threaten to sink it on a level with the most disgraced. Slavery and
+penitentiaries have done more mischief than war or disease. I hope to
+see the day when there will be universal emancipation, when the
+penitentiaries of the United States will be changed from schools of vice
+to schools of virtue. Then will the United States be the admiration of
+all the nations of the world, and he that is born within their bounds
+will be proud of the land that gave him birth.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Nov. 12.&mdash;Remained this day in St. Louis. The town is not very
+handsome or large. The streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses,
+with a few exceptions, meanly built. It appears the attention of the
+inhabitants has been turned solely toward making money. Taste and art as
+yet have been much neglected. Visited the Roman chapel. Although
+unfinished it is a spa<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>cious, handsome building. The new bank is of
+modern shape, in appearance, a very neat little building. Visited the
+Indian museum or grand council or war chamber, which contains many
+specimens of curious workmanship, and a number of curiosities presented
+to the government by the chiefs of different nations. Visited the
+theater. This is only a temporary building. It is placed in the middle
+of a duck puddle, is finished in the coarsest manner and of the meanest
+materials. The decorations inside are few. The gallery will contain
+about ten persons and the house 200. No danger of fire. The water rises
+in the pit and in case of emergency a tolerably brisk fellow might run
+head foremost through any part of it. In ridiculously ugly and slight
+appearance it surpasses all ever seen or heard of. It is not half so
+large or half so good as the common horse-stables in Philadelphia.</p>
+
+
+<p>Saturday, Nov. 13.&mdash;Left St. Louis at 6 o'clock a. m. Crossed the
+Mississippi to Illinois on my way to Kaskaskia. Passed a small village
+called Cahokia, a miserable, dirty little hole. But very few good
+houses. Inhabitants half French, half Indian, retaining part of the
+manners of both. The French language is generally spoken, but not in its
+purity. For eight or ten miles we traveled on the American bottom,
+which, in all probabili<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>ties, never was surpassed in fertility. After
+leaving the bottom the country is rather hilly and barren. Traveled
+twenty-two miles and lodged at Waterloo, a town without houses. Only two
+families in the place. Every land speculator produces one or more of
+these dirt-cabin villages. Indeed, two-thirds of the travelers met with
+are land speculators. The inhabitants of this part of the country appear
+to be a wretched set of beings. Their great-coats are made out of a
+blanket, with a cap or hood out of the same piece. Then moccasins and
+leggins complete the suit. Uncover a Frenchman's head and his friends
+are immediately alarmed for his health. The pig pens in Pennsylvania are
+generally as clean and much better built than the miserable huts
+occupied by these lazy people. In a state of almost starvation they hold
+their Gumbo balls twice a week. For nimbleness of foot and lightness of
+heart the French have never been surpassed.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Hope springs eternal in the human breast;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">&nbsp;Man never is, always to be, blest."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Excellent wages in this country for hired people, either black or white,
+men or women. It is very common for a log cabin tavern without a door or
+window (perhaps a log out to answer both purposes) to sup and lodge
+twenty persons, men<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> women and children. A living is so easily obtained
+in this rich country that the most industrious of the inhabitants soon
+grow indolent. Perhaps the ague and fever unfits them for exertion or
+labor, but those things or something not accounted for produces
+laziness.</p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Nov. 14.&mdash;Left Waterloo and traveled twenty miles to breakfast
+at Mrs. LaCount's in the little ancient French village called Prairie De
+Rouche or Rocky Meadows. In traveling this distance I saw only three
+houses. Just before I arrived at the village Prairie De Rouche we
+descended a hill half a mile in height and entered again on the American
+bottom. The lands are hilly, barren and full of limestone. Game of all
+descriptions in great abundance. Mme. LaCount entertained us politely.
+She is considered the queen of this little village, which is the sum and
+substance of everything that is poor and miserable. Mme. LaCount's
+daughter being ill, I was deprived of a great deal of valuable
+information. She speaks good English, and is a very sensible,
+intelligent young lady for such a village. The houses here have the most
+antique and mean appearance, built of the barks of trees and puncheons,
+slabs, etc., often without doors. Their windows are without sashes, but
+small pieces of broken glasses of all shapes pasted ingeniously<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
+together with paper serve to admit the light upon a motley family,
+between white, red and black. Many of those wretched hovels are ready to
+tumble down on the heads of starving Indians, French and negroes, all
+mixed together. Negro-French is the common language of this town.
+Indeed, unless you can speak some French it is with much difficulty you
+can find any person who can understand you. Left Mme. LaCount's,
+traveled twelve miles over an extremely fertile country and arrived at
+Kaskaskia a little before sunset.</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Nov. 15.&mdash;Remained in this inconsiderable village this day. Much
+disappointed in the appearance of the long-talked-of Kaskaskia. It is
+situated on the Okaw or Kaskaskia river, three miles from the
+Mississippi. It never can be a place of much business. The land office
+is kept at this place. There are some neat buildings, but they are
+generally old, ugly and inconvenient. Their streets are irregular and of
+bad widths. The inhabitants are all generals, colonels, majors, land
+speculators or adventurers, with now and then a robber and a cutthroat.
+I have to keep my long knife sharp and my eyes open. Went to church at
+night. A fellow tried to pick my pocket. Had my hand upon my long
+knife.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>Tuesday, Nov. 16.&mdash;Dr. Hill having business at the lead mine, I
+consented to wait until his return. Wanting amusement, I engaged in
+hunting. Among other game I wounded a parrot, an uncommonly handsome
+bird, with rich plumage. It appeared to possess all the sagacity of the
+tame parrot. When it was first wounded it made every effort to defend
+itself, but after remaining a captive for a short time it appeared
+pleased with every kind attention, as do the domesticated parrots of the
+West Indies. In hunting, passed over a field that contains 5,000 acres
+of land, principally under cultivation. This field is part of the
+American bottom and is the common property of all the French of
+Kaskaskia. This land produces from sixty to 120 bushels of corn to the
+acre. More fertile land I never beheld. The inhabitants are subject to
+intermittent fevers. At this time there are thousands of acres of this
+excellent land for sale at from $4 to $8 an acre, and a good proportion
+woodland. Dr. Hill not having returned on the 17th, I took a ride, the
+day being pleasant in consequence of a refreshing shower. Visited the
+governor's house, a miserable-looking old building, such as is found in
+the suburbs of towns. Crossed the great Okaw or Kaskaskia river. The
+water not knee-deep and about 100 yards wide. Visited the
+lieutenant-governor's house, which is situated across this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> stream,
+opposite and in sight of Kaskaskia. This is the best-looking house in
+the place. It is painted white, but stands alone, without garden, yard
+or ornament of any kind. A worm fence is run around the house to keep
+the pigs out of the first story. Col. Menard, the lieutenant-governor,
+is a coarse-looking Frenchman, with all the habits, manners and dress of
+the common ... of Philadelphia. Visited the Indian king of the Kaskia
+Indians and his people, who reside about three miles from the village.
+This nation is now reduced to about thirty in number. Many years ago all
+the different tribes of Indians combined, fell upon the Kaskians when
+they were unprepared for battle, and cut to pieces all their warriors,
+except about fifteen, and most of their women and children. The king of
+this little nation is a fine, majestic-looking man, six feet high. He
+spoke French. Was polite and more gentlemanly in his deportment than
+some of those great men of the place. He was very much indisposed. I had
+the honor of prescribing for him. The names, manners and customs of
+these people are such as are common among Indians, with this exception,
+that they are rather more comfortable as to living, etc. I was very much
+struck with the appearance of one of the young men. He is tall,
+straight, elegant and unassuming in his manners, has fine, regular
+features, and possesses<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> as mild and intelligent a countenance as is to
+be found in more civilized life. His eyes are dark, expressive and
+beaming with goodness, instead of ferocity.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Nov. 18.&mdash;Dr. Hill not having returned, time passed heavily
+on. Hunted occasionally and visited the king again. I found his state of
+health much improved. He was very polite. Conversed sensibly and invited
+me to hunt with him. I took the rounds amongst his people. Found them
+generally in bark huts, sitting flat on the floor, making moccasins,
+etc. As none but the chief could speak English, I was deprived of the
+pleasure of conversation. In one of these bark huts without a door (and
+placed at a considerable distance from the other lodges) sat a female
+who was recently confined. This female had retired to this cold and open
+hut during her indisposition. She was alone from choice, and held down
+her head at my approach and showed signs of disapprobation. How
+commendable the modesty, even in a savage! She was placed in the middle
+of the floor near a handful of coals, seated on a buffalo robe and
+thinly dressed. The day was cold and she was without any appearance of
+what we call comfort. A small mug of herb tea was her drink, and there
+was no food to be seen. This female had twin children, which is a
+re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>markable occurrence amongst savages. These little strangers were
+bandaged tight from head to foot and lashed upon a board with one end
+sharpened for the convenience of the mother. Whenever she grows weary
+one end of the board is stuck into the ground and the children often are
+left for a considerable time. The appearance is singular, and would
+astonish those that had never seen the Indians' manner of treating their
+children. Indian children are white when born, their eyes very black.
+Their hair long, straight and black. Their features full and well-shaped
+with large, Roman noses. They look healthy and appear to live on
+one-half the nourishment which would be necessary for other children.
+During this visit I had an opportunity of seeing the king's daughter.
+She has adopted the civil dress and is polite and affable for a savage.
+She speaks but little English but speaks French fluently. Her father and
+self profess the Roman Catholic religion. This Indian is more comely
+than the rest of the females, but I have never been able to trace any
+lines of beauty about those children of the forest. This Indian king
+owns 2,000 acres of the American bottom. Part he rents out to advantage,
+and part he cultivates. He lives well and might live elegantly. I
+omitted to mention that Kaskaskia is the seat of government, which gave
+me an opportunity of seeing all the heads<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> of departments, governor,
+lieutenant-governor, secretary of state, sheriffs, magistrates, etc.
+They are well suited to a new country and an infant state.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Nov. 19-21.&mdash;Spent those days in Kaskia and
+its neighborhood in hunting, and rambling through this garden of a
+country, every day affording new amusement and presenting very
+interesting subjects for the mind to dwell upon. On this day, the 21st,
+Dr. Hill returned from the lead mine, a distance of forty-seven miles.
+He traveled over a poor and barren country and was not much pleased with
+his journey. He saw twenty deer in one herd, and was informed there were
+some buffalo, wildcats, wolves, etc., in the neighborhood.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="V_In_Possession_of_the_Promised_Land" id="V_In_Possession_of_the_Promised_Land"></a>V.&mdash;<span class="smcap">In Possession of the "Promised Land"</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Nov. 22, 1819.&mdash;This day breakfasted with Mr. R. Morrison and
+dined with Mr. W. Morrison. These gentlemen are wealthy and live in very
+comfortable style. Mrs. R. Morrison is one of the most intelligent women
+that I have conversed with, and possesses a lady's privilege, while Mrs.
+W. Morrison might rank, in point of beauty with some of the belles of
+Philadelphia.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> Dr. Hill having accomplished his business, we set out
+from Kaskia at 2 o'clock, after bidding a friendly farewell to many new
+friends made in this place. I must confess I found a few possessing so
+much more merit than I anticipated that I parted with them reluctantly.
+Traveled twelve miles, and arrived at Mme. LeCount's. We supped with a
+tableful of French. Not one of them could speak English. Pumpkins,
+spoiled venison and rancid, oily butter for supper, added to the odor of
+a few 'coons and opossums that were ripening in the sun, induced us to
+cut our comfort short. During the night I was taken ill with rheumatism.
+Bled myself largely. Set out at 6 o'clock in the morning rather better,
+though dull. Passed some small lakes full of ducks and geese. Saw seven
+deer, some wild turkeys and other game. Retraced our former steps.
+Passed Cahokia, a small and unimproving village, and arrived at the town
+of Illinois at 7 o'clock p. m.</p>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Nov. 24.&mdash;Crossed over to St. Louis to inquire for old
+friends or acquaintances from Philadelphia. Even an enemy would have
+been taken by the hand, but to my disappointment there was no arrival.
+Recrossed the Mississippi, and set out for Edwardsville. Passed some
+large lakes. Large and extremely fertile prairies, neat dwellings and
+good farms, well cultivated. Ar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>rived at Edwardsville, a distance of
+twenty-two miles, at 7 o'clock. Edwardsville is a small but flourishing
+little village. Goods three prices. Labor high. Lands rich and the place
+thriving for an inland town.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Nov. 26.&mdash;Rainy day. Deposited deeds at recorder's office.
+Detained on land business. I expected this day to have set out for the
+bounty lands. Dr. Hill having fully accomplished his business, he
+declined accompanying me agreeable to promise, and I returned to St.
+Louis alone, leaving him behind, intending to seek more grateful
+company.</p>
+
+
+<p>Wednesday, Dec. 1.&mdash;In consequence of the disappointment occasioned by
+Dr. Hill refusing to accompany me to the bounty lands, I was subjected
+to considerable expense, loss of time and much inconvenience. On the 3d
+day of December Dr. Hill set out for Philadelphia, in company with one
+of my friends, a Mr. Pratt, a clever old farmer and a missionary
+Methodist preacher. I accompanied them across the river. In parting with
+Dr. Hill I must in honesty confess I felt none of those unpleasant
+sensations produced at parting with a friend. A pleasant ride and a
+final adieu to him. After dividing my time between St. Louis and
+Illinois until the 8th day of December,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> I set out, in company with a
+Mr. B&mdash;&mdash;, to visit the bounty lands. Traveled to Milton, a small town
+over the American bottom, twenty miles. This soil cannot be surpassed in
+fertility by any land upon the globe. Eighty and 100 bushels of corn to
+the acre are common crops without any labor except that which is
+necessary in planting. This, in truth, is the promised land&mdash;the land
+that flows with milk and honey. Stock in any quantities may be raised
+free from expense, and every article made by the farmer commands as high
+a price as in Philadelphia, and a more ready market. How many thousands
+are there in the eastern states who work like the slaves of the south
+and are barely able to support their families without even the hope in
+old age to become comfortable. Could they believe there was such a
+country in the world, could they know that lands of the first quality
+can be obtained so easily, and be informed that the rewards of industry
+are so great, they would instantly fly to the west and meet fatigue and
+hardships on the way with a smile. In a few years the consequence would
+be the accumulation of wealth and fair prospects for a rising family.
+Milton is situated on Wood river (a very small stream opposite the mouth
+of the Missouri river and within one and a half miles of the
+Mississippi). It is a flourishing little village only one and a half
+years old. Near this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> place lands command from $5 to $10 an acre.
+Milton, together with all the American bottom, is subject to bilious and
+intermittent fevers during the warm months. The banks of Wood river
+during the last war were often scoured by the Indians, and became the
+theater of some savage and barbarous deeds. A narrative hangs yet on the
+lips of the inhabitants, which has seldom found its parallel in the most
+remote desert by the most ferocious or bloodthirsty. Seven warriors
+attacked and murdered a female and her four little children almost in
+sight of her own dwelling. She and the little innocents had spent an
+evening at a friend's house, and were returning home. The shrieks of
+this unfortunate family brought the husband to the scalped and lifeless
+corpse of a beloved wife, and a tender and affectionate father to his
+four little children bleeding in death, the suckling child with a
+tomahawk sticking in its head. None but a husband and father can feel
+the deep agony which must arise from so bloody a transaction. Those
+warriors, whose companion was cruelty and whose happiness was in murder,
+were pursued by some resolute and spirited volunteers from the
+neighborhood. They were overtaken and every man put to death. Not long
+after this butchery another party fell upon a defenseless family in the
+same neighborhood. They shot an old man in his door,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> scalped a young
+female in the house and threw her in the fire, tomahawked and scalped
+two little children, whilst two boys made their escape&mdash;one 6 and the
+other 8 years old. These little children wandered about the fields and
+woods for three days without nourishment except the berries and roots
+which they were able to collect from the fields. Three times did they
+get in sight of the murderers, and as often hid themselves in the
+leaves, and finally found their way to a house and communicated the
+dreadful intelligence of the massacre. The hand that governs and
+protects all was outstretched to save these children in a manner
+unusual. I am now in sight of the death spot of those unfortunates, and
+expect to travel 100 miles farther, where but a short time since no
+track or trace was to be seen except that of the savage.</p>
+
+
+<p>Thursday, Dec. 9.&mdash;Left Milton at 6 o'clock. Passed Alton, distance from
+Milton one and one-half miles. Here I must remark every man makes his
+own town and sometimes more than one. Within five miles there are five
+towns, as they are called, but all insignificant and improperly placed.
+Their names are Milton, Alton, Middle Alton, Lower Alton and Sales.
+Those mushroom towns in a short time will produce their own death.
+Although their lives are short they do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> mischief to the community.
+People in their neighborhood are unwise enough, for the sake of having a
+town lot, to give as much for a few feet of ground as would purchase a
+good farm (160 acres of land). They are then tied to the little town,
+where their property can never be of much value, nor can it produce a
+living. Strangers or men at a distance purchase lots in towns they have
+never seen, under the impression they are, or soon will be, like the
+eastern cities. To townmakers or land speculators the subject is very
+pleasant. To hear them describe the advantages of a barren spot perhaps
+ten miles from any navigable stream, and it is more than probable not
+even near a spring branch that would float a cornstalk boat. Could you
+believe their assertions, a single lot which they have for sale would
+produce a fortune that would make a man comfortable all his old days. I
+must not omit an anecdote that applies well to those townmakers. A
+gentleman visited the fertile lands of Illinois. In the course of his
+journey he passed very many of those trifling towns. When about to turn
+toward his home he had occasion to enter a tavern for refreshment. Here
+they kept a register of names, a common practice in the western country.
+On entering the door the barkeeper requested him to enter his name. He
+hesitated, appeared confused and begged to be excused, stating he had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> a
+particular objection which he would make known when he was about to
+start, provided it could be kept a secret, which was consented to. This
+was sufficient to arouse the suspicions of all who were in the house as
+to the stranger's honesty. All the neighbors assembled. Some declared he
+was a horse thief, others a murderer, while the most charitable stated
+he had been a member of the penitentiary fraternity. After obtaining
+refreshments with some difficulty he mounted his horse amidst the gaping
+crowd, called for the barkeeper and whispered in his ear, loud enough
+for everybody to hear: "My name is Robinson. I objected to mentioning
+it, fearing you would name a town after me!" He spurred his horse, rode
+off and left the gaping crowd, which is always to be found about little
+villages, much disappointed and chagrined. Traveled twenty-seven miles
+over a rich country, part rolling, part broken, belonging to the United
+States. This part of Illinois is high and healthy and is well watered.
+Arrived at the Widow Jackaway's ferry, one mile above the junction of
+the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. Passed several small French huts,
+made principally of bark, very open and but little appearance of
+comfort. Large strings of geese, ducks, opossums and skunks hung upon
+the sides of the huts to ripen. At Mrs. Jackaway's we were entertained
+kindly. We slept on a bedcord and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> covered with a cow-hide. There was
+but one room to the house, hen house excepted, which formed rather a
+separate apartment, but without a door, and the fowls had to pass
+through the house to get to their lodgings. This appeared necessary to
+protect them from the wolves and wildcats.</p>
+
+
+<p>Friday, Dec. 10.&mdash;Left Mrs. Jackaway's at 8 o'clock. Crossed the
+Illinois on a platform placed on two canoes, and arrived in safety on
+the bounty lands a little above the junction of the bold Mississippi and
+the Illinois. Each of those rivers is about half a mile wide. Here a new
+country presented itself, of better quality and under more advantages
+than I was prepared to meet. Traveled all day through the woods, meadows
+and prairies. It began raining. We were fortunate in being able to reach
+Mme. Belfie's, on the banks of the Illinois. On inquiring if we could
+remain all night, being wet and uncomfortable, we were received with all
+the politeness that characterizes the French under all circumstances,
+and given in broken English a hearty welcome. Supper being prepared for
+the family, we were invited to partake. Curiosity, which has led us into
+many scrapes, was on tiptoe. Wild goose was very good. After fishing in
+the dish some time I found something with a new flavor. It proved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> to be
+skunk. Made a light supper and retired to bed. Mme. Belfie lives in a
+log hut about twelve feet square. This contains a bed for the old lady
+and her daughter, two dogs, one hen and chickens, two chairs, and one
+table. It is easy to imagine there was not much room left for two
+common-sized men. However, we spread down our buffalo-skin and covered
+with our great-coats, and for the first time I slept on a floor. Sore
+sides, but good spirits and no cold. Began to envy the red-men of the
+forest. They have no care, no trouble, to wrinkle the brow.</p>
+
+
+<p>Sunday, Dec. 12.&mdash;Left Mme. Belfie's after being treated with the utmost
+hospitality and politeness. She discovered herself to be a wellbred
+woman, but she was not one of fortune's favorites. During the evening
+she amused us by giving a small history of her life. However, her story
+ended with a detail of misfortunes. About seven years ago a dreadful
+earthquake occurred at New Madrid, on the Mississippi where was the
+habitation of this lady and her husband. Their home was swallowed up,
+their slaves ran away, all their property was lost, and with great
+difficulty got off with their lives. The earth opened and swallowed up
+many houses, then threw up water and trees to a great height. Several
+lives were lost and many families ruined. These unfortunate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> French
+people then sought shelter from the storm near the forks of the
+Mississippi and Illinois rivers, intending, by industry and frugality,
+to make an effort to get forward once more in the world. The manner in
+which this old lady gave an account of her misfortunes was truly
+interesting whilst she made a strong impression on the mind by her
+gestures. The only article saved from the earthquake was a bag of
+gunpowder, with which, in this country, where there is an abundance of
+game, plenty of provisions may be obtained. It was necessary that the
+bag containing this powder should be tied. The wife held whilst the
+husband tied the string, but drawing it very tight one end slipped
+through his fingers and the jerk threw the bag of powder into the fire,
+which blew them both up and burnt all their clothes off them. They were
+ill a considerable time, but recovered. They had nothing left, but, like
+the French, they were cheerful, not discouraged, and almost happy. They
+are now getting forward again, and, oh, may the storm of adversity never
+again assail the cottage of genuine hospitality!</p>
+
+
+<p>Monday, Dec. 13.&mdash;Left Mme. Belfie's, crossed the Illinois and
+breakfasted at the Widow Jackaway's. Here we met with some travelers,
+ladies and gentlemen, who had been upwards of three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> months on the water
+in an open boat. They were forty-nine days on Lake Michigan and were
+bound from Mackinaw to St. Louis. We retraced our former footsteps for
+four miles and traveled on the shore of the Mississippi twelve miles. On
+the shore of the Mississippi for miles stand cliffs or bluffs composed
+of rocks, stones and marine substances. They are from 100 to 400 feet
+high. In many places there appear to be pillars or regular columns
+supporting those wonderful heights, which in many places appear almost
+ready to tumble on those below. In the body of this irregular mass I
+entered three caves, two large enough to protect a considerable family
+from the storm and the third sufficiently large to contain twenty men on
+horseback. This cave is supported by a neat pillar in the center. In
+several places I saw marks on the cliffs at a considerable height made
+with the different colors that Indians use to paint themselves. From
+their arrangement, it appears the men of the desert had tried their
+agility to place the highest mark on the cliffs. Near those caves are
+the names of a number of persons cut in the soft parts of the rocks. In
+traveling along the shore I picked up several specimens of the most
+beautiful pearl I ever beheld. It is so plentiful here that no person
+thinks it worth picking up. After traveling forty-three miles through
+the rain I arrived again<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> at St. Louis on the 13th of December. In
+approaching the Illinois and Mississippi near the mouth from Milton a
+scene beautiful, grand and sublime presents itself. Immediately after
+leaving a thick wood you find yourself on the point of a knob or small
+mountain many hundred feet high. From this eminence you have a view of
+three bold and beautiful streams&mdash;the Mississippi, Illinois and
+Missouri. The country on one side is bordered with very high bluffs as
+far as the eye can reach, and on the other is a meadow or plain prairie,
+which extends for many miles in every direction, and occasionally is
+interspersed with handsome forest trees. The shells and marine
+substances which are found near those large rivers are similar to those
+seen in the West Indies and on the seaboard, but I have no recollection
+of ever having seen such near any stream remote from the sea. This, with
+many other appearances, holds out a strong inducement to believe that
+the sea once covered this country for many hundred miles; that the
+cliffs were its borders, and that some violent convulsion of nature has
+caused it to recede and expose to view the most fertile country on the
+globe. Should accident place this memorandum in the hands of any person,
+an apology will be necessary for expressions and opinions which
+<a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a><a class="correction" href="#cn3" title="changed from 'is'">it</a>
+contains. In speaking of particular states and people I have ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>pressed
+myself as a traveler, but have stated facts. The country traveled over
+by strangers is generally the most barren, and the inhabitants a coarse
+sample of the state. When I have expressed an opinion which appears not
+to be liberal, it is intended to apply to the lower class, of whom there
+is a large majority. A gentleman or lady is the same all over the world,
+and although in the different states there are many characters of the
+first respectability, and although some of the French are rich, liberal
+and gentlemanly men, yet this memorandum is strictly correct when
+applied to the general mass.</p>
+
+<p class="author">
+<span class="smcap">Richard Lee Mason</span>.
+</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h3><a name="tnotes" id="tnotes"></a>Transcriber's note</h3>
+
+<p>A Table of Contents has been created for the HTML version. Minor
+punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. A few
+obvious typographical errors have been corrected, and they are listed
+below. All other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's
+spelling has been maintained.</p>
+
+<p>Page 17: "covered wth forest" changed to "covered
+<a name="cn1" id="cn1"></a><a href="#corr1">with</a> forest".</p>
+
+<p>Page 18: "was this day week that" changed to "was this day
+<a name="cn2" id="cn2"></a><a href="#corr2">last</a>
+week that".</p>
+
+<p>Page 73: "opinion which is contains" changed to "opinion which
+<a name="cn3" id="cn3"></a><a href="#corr3">it</a>
+contains".</p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the
+Pioneer West, 1819, by Richard Lee Mason
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,1866 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the
+Pioneer West, 1819, by Richard Lee Mason
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the Pioneer West, 1819
+
+Author: Richard Lee Mason
+
+Release Date: October 24, 2008 [EBook #27002]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE PIONEER WEST ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carla Foust and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note
+
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. A few
+obvious typographical errors have been corrected, and they are listed at
+the end of this book. All other inconsistencies are as in the original.
+The author's spelling has been maintained.
+
+
+
+
+   NARRATIVE OF RICHARD LEE MASON IN
+   THE PIONEER WEST, 1819
+
+
+
+
+   Heartman's Historical Series No. 6
+
+   [Illustration: DR. RICHARD LEE MASON]
+
+
+
+
+   NARRATIVE
+   OF
+   RICHARD LEE MASON
+   IN THE PIONEER WEST
+   1819
+
+   One hundred and sixty copies printed for
+   CHAS. FRED. HEARTMAN, New York City
+
+
+
+
+   TO
+   G. J. BARBER, Esq.
+   this book is dedicated
+   by
+   Chas. Fred. Heartman
+
+
+
+
+   Number____________of 150 copies printed
+   on Fabriano hand-made paper.
+
+   Also ten copies printed on Japan Vellum.
+
+
+
+
+In the late fall and early winter of the year 1819 Dr. Richard Lee Mason
+made a journey from Philadelphia to Illinois, through Pennsylvania,
+Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana. Some of his adventures were remarkable, and
+these, together with his observations on the country, the towns and the
+people whom he encountered, were recorded in a diary kept by him, which
+is now in the possession of his only surviving child, a daughter, who
+resides in Jacksonville, Ill. Dr. Mason was a remarkably intelligent
+observer, and his record of the people whom he encountered in Illinois
+more than three-quarters of a century ago, not to mention his notes of
+travel in other states, is unique and valuable.
+
+Richard Lee Mason, whose diary is being published in THE RECORD, was
+born in Port Tobacco, Md. In 1806 he was married to Mary Hodge Cochrane.
+Seven children were born to them, of whom five lived to maturity. Soon
+after his marriage he was graduated from the medical department of the
+University of Pennsylvania. For a time he did military service in the
+war of 1812, belonging to a cavalry company called "The White Horsemen."
+For this service he was awarded a large tract of bounty land near Alton,
+Ill. It was to locate and take possession of this land that the long
+journey from Philadelphia to St. Louis was taken.
+
+So pleased was Dr. Mason with his "promised land" and the west country,
+that he determined to send for his family and follow his profession in
+St. Louis. This he did, and he was held in high esteem, but he did not
+live long to enjoy the reunion with his family, and the appreciation of
+friends. The hardships of his trip and exposure to malarial atmosphere
+had impaired his health, and he died in 1824, having submitted
+gracefully to the heroic treatment of the day, which admitted of much
+bleeding and blistering.
+
+Dr. Mason was buried in a newly purchased masonic cemetery, some
+distance beyond the St. Louis city limits, in ground that is now
+Washington avenue, between Tenth and Eleventh streets. Subsequently this
+ground was found too wet for the purpose designed, and Dr. Mason's body
+was removed. It is of interest to know that he was the first mason
+interred with the honors of the order in the state of Missouri. His
+funeral was made the occasion of a grand procession, escorted by Capt.
+Archibald Gamble's troop of cavalry.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     This record was published some twenty years ago in a newspaper
+     from which this reprint is made Decoration Day, 1915.
+
+                                                    H.
+
+
+
+
+I.--PHILADELPHIA TO STEUBENVILLE
+
+
+Monday, Oct. 4, 1819.--Dr. Hall and myself left Philadelphia at 1
+o'clock p. m. after taking an affectionate leave of friends and
+acquaintances. Fair and pleasant weather, and the roads very fine in
+consequence of a refreshing shower of rain which fell on the night
+previous to our setting out. After traveling twenty-two miles and
+passing some rich and well-cultivated farms we arrived at West Chester
+at 7 o'clock. West Chester contains about 600 inhabitants, several
+places of worship, a gaol, etc., etc. A man named Downey is confined in
+the gaol of this place for debt. He was once in affluence, but from
+misfortunes and some imprudence he became reduced in circumstances.
+During his confinement he determined to starve himself to death, and for
+seven days had refused nourishment of every description. Even the clergy
+waited on him and endeavored to dissuade him from his rash
+determination, offering him food of different kinds, but all without
+avail. He was able to stand. No doubt one or two more days will end his
+troubles. How long, O my country, will your cheeks continue to be
+crimsoned by the blush that must follow the plunging an innocent and
+unfortunate being, a debtor, in a dungeon, amongst murderers and
+cut-throats?
+
+
+Tuesday, Oct. 5.--Left West Chester at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled a rough
+road. Passed some travelers on foot migrating to the west who were able
+to keep pace with us for a considerable distance. Breakfasted with an
+old Dutchman who, for unpolished manners and even a want of common
+politeness, surpassed in expectation even the wild men of Illinois. He
+had been a tavernkeeper for forty years. Roads rough. Lands tolerable,
+but so well farmed that the traveler is compelled in many places to
+admire them. Arrived in Strasburg at 6 o'clock p. m. Neat little
+village. Distance twenty-eight miles. Lodged at a private house near the
+village. Was treated with great civility. I was extremely sore and
+tired, riding on horseback. Saddlebags very heavy. A refreshing sleep
+fitted me for the labors of the next day.
+
+
+Wednesday, Oct. 6.--Left Mr. ---- at 6 o'clock a. m. The day pleasant.
+Roads rough. Traveled nine miles and arrived at Lancaster, a large and
+handsome inland town. Inhabitants principally German, very industrious
+and good farmers. Buildings chiefly brick. Considerable business done
+in this town. Left Lancaster, traveled ten miles and arrived at
+Columbia, situated on the bold Susquehanna, but placed without much
+taste or beauty. The bridge over the Susquehanna is the longest in the
+United States. It is placed on regular pillars for one and a quarter
+miles. Its beauty and strength reflect much credit on the designer and
+those who executed the work. Its erection has added much to the comfort
+and convenience of the public. Left Columbia 4 o'clock, and arrived at
+Little York at 6 o'clock p. m. Here the lands are rich, the inhabitants
+look healthy and appear happy and independent. The village is built with
+much taste and judgment and appears to be a place of business. No lands
+for sale for many years past in the neighborhood, but the supposed value
+about $200 per acre. The eyes of the traveler light on this part of the
+country with rapture. He would even venture to barter all his fair
+prospects in the west country, collected from travelers, for one of
+those beautiful farms to be seen every mile.
+
+
+Thursday, Oct. 7.--Left Little York 6 o'clock a. m., traveled
+twenty-nine miles and arrived at Gettysburg, a small village, at 5
+o'clock p. m. The inhabitants very religious. Bad roads, owing to their
+making a new turnpike. Nineteen miles to be finished in six weeks.
+About 300 hands employed, principally Irishmen. Delightful weather for
+traveling.
+
+
+Friday, Oct. 8.--Left Gettysburg 5 o'clock a. m. Overtook and passed
+many travelers bound to the east and west. The lands only tolerable.
+Here we had the first view of the mountains, which present a romantic
+and novel scene to all who have never traveled out of the confines of
+large cities--or have never seen an object higher than a lamp-post or
+lower than a gutter. Traveled fifteen miles to breakfast on the top of
+the mountain. The landlord drunk, the fare bad and the house filled with
+company who had more the appearance of penitentiary society than
+gentlemen. Hard scuffle for breakfast. Ran an old hen down. "Moll" cut
+off the head with an ax. An old sow and a starved dog made a grab before
+the feathers were stripped. One got the head, the other the body. Then
+all hands were mustered to join in the chase, landlord and "Moll" with
+the broom, the hostler with his spade and all the boys with sticks and
+stones. In about ten minutes after hard fighting, the materials for
+breakfast were recovered, and in fifteen minutes the old hen made her
+appearance on the breakfast table, large as life. Bad appetite. Made a
+light breakfast and set out on our journey from the tavern at 10
+o'clock a. m. Traveled over a rough, barren, mountainous and poor
+country to McDowell's, a distance of thirty-six miles. Every traveler
+must be astonished to find persons settled on a barren and mountainous
+country, whilst there are in the United States so many million acres of
+land of the first quality unoccupied and for sale at so low a rate that
+a day laborer can in one year with prudence lay up enough to purchase
+one quarter-section--160 acres.
+
+
+Saturday, Oct. 9.--Left McDowell's 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over an
+extremely rugged, high and uneven range of mountains. The lands
+generally so poor not worth cultivating. Arrived at Dennis', on the old
+road, distance twenty-seven miles, near the Juniata. Breakfasted at
+Camel Town, a small village, one-half the houses taverns. Crossed the
+dreary and lofty mountains at 4 o'clock. This is called Sideling hill,
+where a Mr. McClennan was robbed on the 3d instant by the notorious
+villain and robber, D. Lewis, lately pardoned by Gov. Finley for
+forgery. McClennan had no arms, nor did he make the least resistance,
+yet one of Lewis' accomplices insisted on murdering him. He was robbed
+about 9 o'clock in the morning, and in sight of the house he breakfasted
+at. He was conducted to their camp, a little way from the road,
+threatened with death if he spoke. Although the stage passed full of
+passengers and several wagons in sight, he dared not give the alarm.
+After keeping him in a state of suspense for six hours and rifling his
+letters and pockets of a large sum of money, they left him. On the 8th
+instant they were taken at a little village fifty miles off, and a large
+amount of cash found on them--$2,800. The hardihood of this Lewis
+surpasses the boldness of most robbers of his day. When he and his two
+companions were found asleep they were handcuffed. One of the guards
+laid his pistol on the table, whilst Lewis was surrounded by twenty
+persons, and in a room. He knocked out the candle, seized the pistol,
+flashed at the nearest person, made his way through the crowd, outran
+them for fifty yards, and, when about to be overtaken, snapped a small
+pistol which he had concealed at his nearest pursuer. He knocked down
+the second with his handcuffs, then fell and was retaken. The poverty,
+barrenness, unevenness of this part of the country perhaps was never
+surpassed. But few homes on the road. Met a number of travelers and
+overtook some. About 4 o'clock it commenced raining. Unpleasant
+traveling. Wet to the skin. Arrived at the crossing at dark on the old
+road two miles from the turnpike. Tavern kept by Dennis. Bad house; high
+charges. Rainy night.
+
+
+Sunday, Oct. 10.--Left Dennis' 6 o'clock a. m. Breakfasted at a little
+village called Bloody Run. Great many travelers. Poor country. Reached
+Bedford at 2 o'clock. Whilst our horses were resting we walked to the
+celebrated springs, a distance of one and a half miles.
+
+These springs are romantically situated, gushing from the foot of a
+mountain. They are fitted up with great taste and beauty and offer to
+the wearied citizen a treat of retirement and enjoyment. Two of the
+houses are painted white. They are two stories high and 150 feet long.
+These springs are said to possess important medicinal properties.
+Arrived at Shellsburg at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-three miles.
+The road stony and unpleasant. Well entertained and the charge moderate.
+
+
+Monday, Oct. 11.--Left Shellsburg at 6 o'clock. Poor country, full of
+mountains. Crossed the lofty Allegheny. High ridges, deep valleys and
+steep precipices. Roads good for such steep mountains. Here one of the
+most sublime and beautiful scenes presented itself my eyes ever
+witnessed. After ascending the Allegheny nearly to the top, as far as
+human sight could reach, in every direction, there were chains of
+mountains, occasionally checkered by small farms and low bottoms,
+covered with forest trees. The cleared or cultivated land has lost the
+agreeable green, owing to the season, but we were amply compensated by
+the variety of color, the beautiful tints from the scarlet to the
+lighter shades, occasionally interspersed with evergreens, which were to
+be found on the sides of the mountains amongst the great variety of
+trees. Yellow, blue, green, orange, purple, black and all the shades
+between formed ornamental curtains to those cloudlike heights. Poets and
+painters would have envied us the sight. We continued our journey to the
+top of the mountains. Breakfasted at Stolter's. Arrived at Wray's log
+house at 6 o'clock, a distance of twenty-eight miles. Fare bad, charges
+high, pretty females with glowing faces. After resting and having
+supped, recollected that it was this day last week that we left home.
+Drew a long sigh for those left behind and almost involuntarily turned
+our heads to look for Philadelphia.
+
+
+Tuesday, Oct. 12.--Left Wray's log house at 6 o'clock a. m. Country poor
+and mountainous. Traveled thirty-five miles. Overtook some eastern and
+southern people, men, women and children, all travelling to Illinois.
+The roads a little improved, and the land a little better in quality.
+The towering mountains disappearing and hills substituted in their
+place. This being election day, passed a great many people on the road.
+All merry. Great contention between the Dutch and Irish. Arrived at a
+small village called ... where the election was held. Saw a shocking
+fight, which ended in murder. A small man knocked down by his adversary
+and his intestines literally stamped out. I pressed through the crowd,
+and insisted on bleeding the unfortunate young man. Just as I was about
+to open a vein his senses returned. He begged I would not bleed him, as
+he had never been bled. I declined the operation. He died on the 14th
+instant. Left the election and arrived at a trifling village called
+Adams Town, where we overtook a number of travelers for the west. Left
+Adams Town 6 o'clock a. m., and arrived at Pittsburg at 11 o'clock,
+Hunters' tavern. In approaching this dirty hole I felt the height of
+disappointment. Pittsburg is situated in a valley surrounded by hills
+and mountains. It is placed a short distance above the junction of the
+Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, to form the Ohio, over which there are
+two neat and lengthy bridges, built on Wernwag's plan. In approaching
+Pittsburg the traveler would suppose the town was laid in ashes by fire.
+The surrounding heights, its low situation, the fogs from the rivers,
+together with the universal use of stone coal for fires, added to the
+smoke and dust from the large number of mills and manufactories, form a
+cloud which almost amounts to night, and overspreads Pittsburg with the
+appearance of gloom and melancholy. At this place we met a number of
+travelers, rich and poor, Gen. Miller and suite, straggling play actors,
+and others. Coal dust was well ground in until I might say with much
+truth that I did not see a white man or woman in the place. The more you
+wash, the blacker you get. I am confident that I carried some of this
+coal dust 1,000 miles in spite of my efforts to get rid of it.
+Convenient place for performing "Zanga" or "The Moor of Venice." Visited
+all the manufactories and curiosities of the place. Their glass
+manufactories seem to excel all others--a great treat to those who never
+saw a bottle blown. Pittsburg in appearance suggests the idea of Moscow
+smoking and in ruins. It is a town of considerable manufacturing
+importance. Its inhabitants deserve fortune and a more salubrious
+atmosphere to spend it in.
+
+
+Thursday, Oct. 14.--Remained this day at Hunters'. Had my good little
+horse shod. Careless smith pricked him and produced temporary lameness.
+
+
+Friday, Oct. 15.--Left Pittsburg at 7 o'clock. Traveled over a poor and
+hilly country for thirty-six miles. Passed a few travelers bound to
+Ohio. Remarkable fact: About eight miles from Steubenville passed out of
+Pennsylvania into Virginia, out of Virginia into Ohio in the short space
+of two hours. Crossed the Ohio river after night at Steubenville.
+Stopped at Jenkinson's, an intelligent, gentlemanly, hospitable man.
+Visited the market. Beef, good, 6-1/4 cents a pound.
+
+
+Saturday, Oct. 16.--I omitted to mention that we, on the mountains, fell
+in with Mr. Cooper of Philadelphia, who has been our companion for
+several days. We had to part with him today, which we did with much
+reluctance, as he proved a very agreeable companion. Rainy day, fatigued
+by the broken country, determined to spend this day in Steubenville, a
+busy little village on the bank of the Ohio. Purchased a plain Jersey
+wagon and harness for $60.
+
+
+
+
+II.--THROUGH OHIO AND KENTUCKY
+
+
+Sunday, Oct. 18.--Myself and friend proceeded on our journey. We arrived
+at Siers, a distance of thirty miles, at dusk, much relieved by the
+change from our horses to the wagon. The roads were muddy, the weather
+drizzly and the country hilly. Buildings indifferent. The land very
+fertile and black. Trees uncommonly tall. Passed the little village of
+Cadis. In this country a tavern, a store, a smith shop and two or three
+cabins make a town. Passed ten or fifteen travelers. Great contrast
+between the quality of the land from Chambersburg to Pittsburg, and that
+which we have already traveled over from Steubenville in Ohio.
+
+
+Monday, Oct. 19.--Left Siers at 6 o'clock a. m. The morning fair and
+cold. Roads extremely rough. Country fertile, but hilly. Log cabins,
+ugly women and tall timber. Passed a little flourishing village called
+Freeport, settled by foreigners. Yankee Quakers and mechanics.
+Remarkable, with two taverns in the village, there was nothing fit to
+drink, not even good water. The corn fields in the woods among dead
+trees and the corn very fine. We arrived at Adairs, a distance of
+twenty-seven miles, at 6 o'clock p. m. Passed some peddlers and a few
+travelers. Value of land from Steubenville to Adairs from $2 to $30 per
+acre. Lots in Freeport, eighteen months old, from $30 to $100. This day
+being Monday and the end of the second week since leaving home, our
+feelings were warm and our hearts beat high for those that are dear and
+behind us.
+
+
+Tuesday, Oct. 20.--Left Adairs at 6 o'clock a. m. The country extremely
+hilly and not quite so fertile. Independent people in log cabins. They
+make their own clothes, sugar and salt, and paint their own signs. They
+picture a lion like a dove, a cat like a terrapin, and Gen. Washington
+like a bird's nest. Salt wells and sugar orchards are common in this
+country. Steep hills, frightful precipices, little or no water, and even
+a scarcity of new whisky. Ragged and ignorant children and but little
+appearance of industry. Met a number of travelers inclining to the east,
+and overtook a larger number than usual bound to the land of promise.
+The evening being rainy, the roads soon became muddy. We arrived at
+Silver's Travelers' Rest at 6 o'clock. Distance twenty-nine miles.
+Passed a little village called Cambridge.
+
+
+Wednesday, Oct. 21.--Left Silver's at 7 o'clock and breakfasted at
+Zanesville, a very growing and flourishing village. It is situated on
+the Muskingum river, which is navigable for flat-bottomed boats.
+Zanesville is a lively and busy little town. There are several mills and
+manufactories in and at the place. Neat bridges and a canal cut at great
+labor and expense through a solid rock for a considerable distance, by
+which very important water power is gained. Left Zanesville and
+traveled twenty-three miles to a village called Somerset. The country
+very hilly and the lands not so fertile as those met with near Cadis.
+Rain continues. Roads extremely slippery. Met and overtook about sixty
+travelers, many on foot--Scotch, Irish, and Yankees. Oats, 25 cents;
+butter, 12-1/2 cents; brandy, 50 cents a half-pint; hay, $8 a ton.
+
+
+Thursday, Oct. 22.--Left Somerset at 7 o'clock a. m. Dull, drizzly
+weather. Deep roads. Horse lame in consequence of bad shoeing in
+Pittsburg. Heart a little heavy. Thought of home. Rallied again and
+arrived at a neat little town at the foot of a hill. It is called New
+Lancaster. Distance, eighteen miles. Stopped on the road for refreshment
+and found a Pennsylvania family whose kindness and hospitality deserve
+mention, as we had been denied water and sometimes other refreshments by
+the almost wild inhabitants west of Pittsburg to this place. Some brick
+houses and a few neat frame dwellings to be seen in the last two days'
+ride.
+
+
+Friday, Oct. 23--Left New Lancaster at 8 o'clock and arrived at
+Chillicothe, a distance of thirty-four miles. Passed some elegant farms
+and some neat dwellings. The people appear more polite and better
+educated. Chillicothe is situated on the Sciota, a stream navigable for
+flat-bottomed boats. The bridge over the Sciota is long, substantial and
+handsome. Chillicothe is a town of considerable business for its size.
+One of the branches of the United States bank is at this place. The bank
+was entered lately by a man named Harper, acting under the authority of
+the state, and a large amount of money was taken out. Harper and his
+attendants in gaol. Mob threatens to release them. Bank of the United
+States and all its branches are much abused by the inhabitants and some
+very impudent threats made. When the bank was entered by Harper no
+resistance was made by its officers. Passed Tarlton and Kingston, two
+inconsiderable villages.
+
+
+Saturday, Oct. 24.--Left Chillicothe at 7 o'clock a. m. Arrived at
+Sinking Springs, a little village, after traveling a distance of
+thirty-three miles. Passed over some rich bottoms, neat farms and very
+fertile prairies. A few poor ridges, part level, part mountainous.
+People look healthy, but are extremely impudent and lazy. Game is
+abundant deer, turkeys, partridges and squirrels.
+
+
+Sunday, Oct. 25.--Left Sinking Springs at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled to
+West Union, a little village. Distance twenty-three miles. Lands of
+three qualities, broken, barren and mountainous. Miserable log huts.
+Inhabitants more polite and civil. Crossed Brush creek at the foot of a
+small mountain. At this place met some travelers, among them some
+Philadelphians. The inhabitants in this part of the country generally
+emigrants. Real Ohios, real savages in appearance and manners, destitute
+of every degree of politeness. Not uncommon for a man to follow three or
+four occupations. For example, John Noble follows both tailoring and
+saddlering. My barber is also a waiter on the table, assistant cook and
+hostler. In this town one man is a lawyer, a merchant and an apothecary.
+
+
+Monday, Oct. 26.--Left West Union at 10 o'clock a. m. My friend having
+business here, we lost one day. Traveled over a poor, hilly and
+mountainous country for seventeen miles and arrived at Limestone.
+Crossed the Ohio in a horse-boat and landed at Maysville, Ky., at 5
+o'clock p. m., bidding a willing adieu to Ohio, not leaving behind a
+single individual whom we ever wished to see again. I must confess from
+the many favorable representations made of the habits, manners and state
+of society and quality of the lands in the state of Ohio, I was prepared
+to meet a different soil and a different people from those just left.
+Before I take a final leave of Ohio I must mention an occurrence that
+transpired a few days previous to our arrival in New Lancaster. Ten or
+fifteen friendly Indians were traveling from near New York to visit
+their red brethren in the west. They were poor, but peaceable and well
+behaved. When they were within about twenty-five miles of New Lancaster
+three of the Indians were unable to keep up with the leading party, a
+man, a young squaw and a child. Those unoffending and unfortunate people
+were waylaid by three monsters in human shape, ruffians belonging to the
+neighborhood. They lay hid until those three Indians got in a rake, and
+then fired upon them, intending to kill all at the same shot. The child
+and man escaped unhurt, but the unfortunate female had her thigh broken
+and received a ball in the abdomen. No hope was entertained of her
+recovery. The villains were taken and committed to prison. The only
+reason given by them for committing this extraordinary outrage was that
+during the war the Indians had murdered in battle some of their
+connections or relatives.
+
+
+Tuesday, Oct. 27.--Maysville is a growing little village, situated on
+the Ohio and reaching in a southerly direction to the foot of a small
+mountain. Left Maysville at 6 o'clock a. m. and arrived four miles
+beyond the Blue Licks at 5 o'clock, a distance of thirty miles. Passed
+Washington, May Licks and some smaller villages. Some good land, some
+very poor. Country mountainous and stony. Great difficulty in obtaining
+meat or drink during the day, although taverns are plenty. The Blue
+Licks are rude, uncultivated, stony barrens, poor beyond description and
+extremely difficult to travel over. Passed several dead horses on the
+road. An infectious disease called the sore tongue had produced their
+deaths, and was to be found at every stable for hundreds of miles. Men,
+cows, hogs and sheep were subject to it. Being tired, hungry and
+disappointed in the appearance of the country, I retired to bed early.
+On the 25th inst. the ground was covered with snow. Little or no rain
+had fallen in this part of the country for near six months. Many creeks
+nearly dry. Great difficulty in obtaining water to drink. Passed some
+salt springs and wells. Salt $2.50 per bushel, coffee 50 cents per
+pound. Those prices will sound very high to the merchants of
+Philadelphia.
+
+
+Wednesday, Oct. 28.--Left Artis' tavern, thirty miles from Maysville, at
+7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over a very fertile country, a distance of
+seventeen miles, and arrived at a neat little town called Paris. Passed
+some handsome houses. Saw many negroes. They were ragged, foolish, and,
+in appearance, miserable. Paris, as a town, has some claim to beauty.
+It is placed on an eminence. Many of the houses are brick and of
+handsome shape. There is constantly that stir and bustle which denotes a
+place of business. The country around is fertile, and, although there is
+no navigable stream near, the eye is prevented from falling too heavily
+on the neighboring fields and valleys by the winding of a small stream,
+upon which there is a busy-looking mill.
+
+    "How often have I paused on every charm--
+     The sheltered cot, the cultivated farm,
+     The never-failing brook, the busy mill,
+     The decent church that topped the neighboring hill."
+
+In this little town we met a hearty welcome. The inhabitants are polite
+and hospitable. The singular variety which is to be found in the human
+family by a traveler is difficult to be described. Indeed, every hundred
+miles would take a small volume. Straggling play-actors and tightrope
+dancers had found their way to Paris, besides other amusements which
+were to be found in this sprightly little town, which had a tendency to
+make our time pass very agreeably. On Wednesday night at 11 o'clock, I
+was called to visit Miss Craughan, sister of Col. Craughan, an old
+acquaintance. I found her dangerously ill with quinsy. Large bleedings
+and some other medicines gave relief. Was compelled to leave her and
+proceed on my journey. Heard of her recovery. Interesting lady.
+
+
+Thursday, Oct. 29.--Left Thorgmorton's tavern at 9 o'clock a. m. Good
+roads; fair weather; generous people; good land and neat dwellings.
+Dined in Lexington, a town of considerable size, and a place of great
+business. Saw large numbers of country people dealing in stores. Met and
+overtook but few travelers the last three or four days. Traveled this
+day thirty-two miles to Cole's. The lands not so fertile and a little
+hilly.
+
+
+Friday, Oct. 30.--Left Cole's at 6 o'clock a. m. Breakfasted at
+Frankfort, the seat of the government of Kentucky. It is situated in a
+deep valley near a stream, surrounded with high and uneven hills, and at
+a distance, from its shape and situation, it resembles a garden laid off
+in squares. A very handsome bridge, neatly painted, is thrown across the
+Kentucky river, which, together with some public buildings erected with
+considerable taste, assist much in enlivening and adding beauty and
+elegance to the appearance of the town. Left Frankfort at 9 o'clock.
+Crossed the Kentucky river, which was only three feet wide, owing to the
+uncommon drought. Foot passengers were crossing on a rail. Passed
+through Shelbyville, a small village. Many creeks, rivers and branches
+entirely dry. Every animal suffering for water. The farmers compelled to
+cart a sufficient quantity to support life, many miles. No water to be
+obtained in the village for our horses. Fortunately we were enabled to
+purchase some on the road. Traveled twenty-nine miles to Smith's. Lands
+rich. Country broken on the old road. Deep valleys. Frightful
+precipices. Beech woods. Large trees. Good corn. Warm and dry weather.
+
+
+Saturday, Oct. 31.--Left Smith's at 7 o'clock a. m. Traveled over a very
+rich and flat country. Passed through Middletown, and at 4 o'clock
+arrived at Louisville, after traveling twenty-eight miles. This day
+being Saturday, and having met some old friends and acquaintances, a
+party was made up to visit the Louisville theater. Philadelphia being
+the theater for all great performers, curiosity was on tip-toe to view
+the players of Louisville. The theater is a neat little building. It was
+but thinly attended, owing to the pressure of the times. The play was
+"Wives as They Were and Maids as They Are," Mr. Drake and Mrs. Grochong
+supporting the principal characters. Their persons, features, voices and
+gestures were fine, appearing to possess the nicest feelings and
+tenderest sympathies, and, in my opinion, they were well suited to a
+better stage. The play better performed than expected. Indeed, I may say
+well performed, if I may be permitted to add there was more than one of
+the actors who was unfeeling, unmeaning, made of wood and more like a
+gate-post than an animated being. This had the happiest of effects, for
+after shedding tears of grief at interesting parts of the play they were
+kept flowing with laughter at those ridiculous performers making tragedy
+into comedy. Louisville is a flourishing town immediately on the banks
+of the Ohio. The town and business principally confined to one street.
+The inhabitants are polite, hospitable and live fast.
+
+
+Sunday, Nov. 1.--This day was spent in visiting a family near
+Louisville, friends of my youthful days, whom I had not seen for
+eighteen years. As I approached the dwelling, happy days that are never
+to return, pleasant hours, youthful, happy and blooming faces, joyous
+scenes and many dear moments, flashed suddenly across my mind. But judge
+of my disappointment on meeting the remains of this amiable family. I
+will not attempt to express feelings that in the human language know no
+description. Mrs. M----, a truly good woman, had been borne to that
+shore "from whence no traveler returns." Her daughter, who was the
+admiration of all that knew her, soon followed. The remains of the
+family which eighteen years ago was young and fashionable, elegant and
+beautiful, had become sedate, crooked, wrinkled and even gray. To
+witness the ravages of time produced a gloom which lasted several days.
+I took an affectionate leave of them, never expecting to see them again.
+
+
+Tuesday, Nov. 3.--Remained in Louisville Monday and part of today. Left
+Aleen's the 2d. Passed through Shipping Port, on the bank of the Ohio,
+two and one-half miles below Louisville. A very promising little
+village. Twelve or thirteen steamboats lying at this place aground,
+owing to the unusual drought. Curiosity induced me to go on board the
+largest steamboat in the world, lying at this place. She is called the
+United States, and is owned by a company of gentlemen. I have taken down
+her dimensions: Length of keel, 165 feet 8 inches; depth of hold, 11
+feet 3 inches; breadth of beam and girder, 56 feet; length on deck, 176
+feet 8 inches; breadth of beam without girder, 37 feet. This mammoth
+boat has eight boilers and elegant accommodations for a large number of
+passengers. Many of the steamships lying at this place are built on
+improved plans and are very handsome. We crossed the Ohio at a point
+where it is three-quarters of a mile wide. Passed through New Albany,
+Ind., a little village inhabited by tavernkeepers and mechanics.
+Traveled to Miller's, a distance of six miles over the knobs. Country
+very much broken. Some steep hills and sugar-loaf knobs. The woods being
+on fire, a scene truly sublime presented itself at night. The lands
+indifferent. Weather warm and dry. Passed many travelers bound to the
+west, and met three or four wagons with families returning from the
+promised land. Slept in a house without glass in the windows and no
+fastenings to the doors. The inhabitants impudent and lazy beyond
+example. Supped on cabbage, turnips, pickles, beets, beefsteak made of
+pickled beef, rye coffee and sage tea. The people of Indiana differ
+widely from Kentuckians in habits, manners and even dialect. Whilst
+hospitality, politeness and good sense characterize Kentuckians,
+ignorance, impudence and laziness has stamped the Indianians.
+
+
+
+
+III.--A BROTHERHOOD OF CUTTHROATS
+
+
+Wednesday, Nov. 3, 1819.--Left Miller's tavern at 7 o'clock and arrived
+at Squire Chambers' at 6 o'clock, after traveling a distance of
+thirty-six miles. Passed a trifling village, Fredericksburg; also
+Greenville. A poor, barren, deserted country. For ten miles, stony,
+poor, mountainous and naked. Land a little better. Miserable huts, poor
+accommodations, cabin taverns, and high charges. Crossed Blue river.
+Every man his own hostler and steward. Plenty of game--deer, turkeys,
+etc. Inhabitants generally possess a smaller share of politeness than
+any met with before.
+
+
+Thursday, Nov. 4.--Left Squire Chambers' (who is only member of the
+assembly, by the by) at 7 o'clock a. m. Arrived at Lewis' at 6 o'clock,
+a distance of twenty-five miles. Passed a little village called Peola.
+The fact that this part of Indiana is a late purchase by the United
+States, accounts for its towns being so inconsiderable and being made up
+of log houses. The lands here are very fertile, the country mountainous
+and broken. Traveled twenty-five miles through woods and passed but four
+houses. With great difficulty obtained water for our horses. In the
+midst of one of those long and thick pieces of woods, we passed one of
+the most miserable huts ever seen--a house built out of slabs without a
+nail; the pieces merely laid against a log pen such as pigs are commonly
+kept in, a dirt floor, no chimney. Indeed, the covering would be a bad
+one in the heat of summer, and, unfortunately, the weather at this time
+is very severe for the season of the year. This small cabin contained a
+young and interesting female and her two shivering and almost starving
+children, all of whom were bare-headed and with their feet bare. There
+was a small bed, one blanket and a few potatoes. One cow and one pig
+(who appeared to share in their misfortunes) completed the family,
+except for the husband, who was absent in search of bread. Fortunately
+for the dear little children, we had in our carriage some bread, cheese,
+toddy, etc., which we divided with them with much heartfelt
+satisfaction. In this situation the woman was polite, smiled and
+appeared happy. She gave us water to drink, which had been refused to us
+by persons on the road several times during the day. What a lesson for
+many of the unhappy ladies that inhabit large cities, whose husbands are
+slaves to procure all the luxuries of life, a fine house, carpeted
+floors, elegant furniture, fine carriages and horses, gay and cheerful
+company, and a smooth brick pavement or marble to walk upon! Yet they
+are too often dissatisfied, and are sighing for that which cannot be
+obtained. Could they but contrast their situation with this ragged,
+suffering and delicate female, they would have just cause to be happy,
+and would be under the strong conviction that Providence does not
+interfere with the common affairs of this life. Traveled over excellent
+lands not taken up which could be cleared with very little labor.
+
+
+Friday, Nov. 5.--Left Mr. Sears' at 7 o'clock, after having slept in a
+cabin with three wagons. My friend and self treated civilly by the
+family. The house not close enough to keep the cats and dogs out.
+Traveled over an extremely mountainous country to White river (east
+fork), where a town was laid out last May. Promising little place.
+Several houses building together, with the industrious appearance of saw
+and grist mills, give it the appearance of a place of business. Little
+town is called Hindoostan. In this part of the country the woods are
+large, the hills bold and lofty, and there is an abundance of bears,
+wolves, wildcats, panthers, etc. Thousands of acres of land of the first
+quality are unsettled and to be purchased at from $2.50 to $5 an acre.
+In crossing White river we had to descend a very steep precipice above
+the falls, in effecting which my friend, Dr. Hill, who happened to be
+driving our little carriage, was thrown headforemost into the river.
+Part of our baggage followed him, and the carriage was very near
+upsetting. However, we forded this elegant stream, which is 200 yards
+wide, without much difficulty. After halting a few minutes on the bank
+to examine our bruises and adjust our baggage, we proceeded on our
+journey. Traveled a distance of eighteen miles to the west branch of
+White river, which we forded without risk, the bottom being hard and
+rocky. Traveled over a fertile country four miles to Steenz, making a
+distance of thirty-four miles. At this dirty hovel, with one room and a
+loft, formed by placing boards about three inches apart, ten travelers
+slept. There were thirteen in family, besides two calves, making in all,
+with my friend and self, twenty-three whites, one negro and two calves.
+
+
+Saturday, Nov. 6.--Supped on pumpkins, cabbages, rye coffee without
+sugar, bones of venison, salted pickles, etc.--all in the midst of
+crying children, dirt, filth and misery. The last entertainment made the
+first serious unfavorable impression on my mind relative to the west.
+Traveled six miles to breakfast and to entertain an idea of starving. No
+water, no food fit to eat, dusty roads and constantly enveloped in a
+cloud of smoke, owing to the woods and prairies being on fire for 100
+miles. Breakfasted on sound provisions for a rarity and felt a little
+refreshed. This part of Indiana is rich and valuable. Corn and oats 50
+cents a bushel. My good little horse being sick, my usual flow of
+spirits commenced a retreat. However, they were soon rallied again after
+a few long sighs for those that are dear and far from me. Arrived at
+Vincennes, on the Wabash, a bold and handsome river, the size of the
+Schuylkill. Vincennes, an ancient town, is small, ugly and meanly
+built, although beautifully situated. Its inhabitants are French,
+Americans, Indians--and, in short, persons from the four corners of the
+earth. Indian mounds or small round hills are common in this country.
+They are believed to be the work of art, and from bones and so forth
+which have been found in them are supposed to have been receptacles for
+the dead, when none but the footsteps of the savage was to be traced in
+these forests. We are now within a few miles of the Shakers and
+Harmonites, whom we intend to visit and give a correct account of. Very
+much revived this day, having lived well. Necessity is often the mother
+of invention. Yolk of egg, flour and water mixed is a good substitute
+for milk, and is often used in coffee in this country. Rye is frequently
+substituted for coffee and sage tea in place of the imperial.
+
+
+Sunday, Nov. 7.--Left Vincennes at 7 o'clock. Crossed the meandering
+stream, Wabash, into Illinois. This river abounds in fish, ducks and
+geese. Traveled thirty-seven miles over rich and elegant prairies.
+Passed but very few houses in this distance. Our poor horses and
+ourselves almost famished for water. Traveled eighteen miles without a
+drop, and then compelled to use it out of a stagnant pool, where
+thousands of insects considered the water private property. Arrived at
+McDermott's, on the Fox river. Obtained a list of cutthroats and
+murderers, whose names are as follows on the list: Gatewood, Rutherford,
+Grimberry, Cain, Young, Portlethwaite, etc. This chain of villains
+extended for eighty miles through all the dreary and lonesome prairies.
+We were informed that when they were not engaged in robbing or murdering
+they were very industriously employed in manufacturing bank notes, which
+they imposed on travelers at every opportunity. It may be worthy of
+remark that all the country for forty miles around where these banditti
+have taken possession belongs to the United States. For the convenience
+of travelers, a new road has been made through this country, instead of
+going by Shawneetown, and those villains have posted themselves along
+the road under the name of tavernkeepers, watching for their prey
+whenever it may pass. Indeed, I conceive it impossible for any man who
+has cash enough to make him worth killing to travel this road alone.
+Called to see Gatewood, the first man on the list of cutthroats. He was
+from home. Saw his wife, a handsome, young dejected-looking woman, who
+appeared very uneasy at her husband's being inquired for by a man almost
+as well armed and not much out of the style of Robinson Crusoe. Saw a
+bloody cravat on the end of the log of which his house was built. We
+intend to call and see the balance of the fraternity out of curiosity.
+Traveled over prairies just burned and through woods on fire. Smoke and
+dust, together with the want of water, almost produced suffocation,
+families sending miles for water to drink. The prairies extend for
+miles, indeed, as far as the eye can reach, level as a plank floor. The
+soil generally is a bed of manure, the land uncultivated and without any
+person to claim it. The few inhabitants found in this part of the
+country are impolite, lazy and disobliging. Passed many families
+traveling to the west, and met a few bound to the east. There has been
+no rain in this part of the country for near seven months. Many of the
+farmers have lost stock in consequence of the drought. A few years ago
+this part of Illinois was inhabited only by the rude and uncivilized
+savage. The scalping knife and tomahawk, graced their bark dwellings and
+were often used in the most inhuman manner. The murdering of women and
+children whom they viewed as their enemies was not an uncommon
+occurrence. But who could have believed that when the red men of the
+forest had retired from this beautiful country their places would have
+been supplied by persons whose characters would be softened by the
+appellation of savage--penitentiary outcasts and murderers? Who could
+believe that a human being could be so depraved as to fall upon a
+defenseless and unoffending traveler and murder him under the pretence
+of sheltering him from the storm and giving him a hearty welcome at his
+table? Who could believe that even devils in human shape could cut the
+throats of two traveling strangers to obtain two watches, $80 and a pair
+of saddle-bags? I shudder at the blackness of the crime. It occurred
+only yesterday, and we are at this moment near the spot where the horrid
+deed was committed. Two other murders have lately been committed near
+this place. A stranger was found hung on a tree and a traveler was
+murdered near Shawneetown by the same men whose names have been
+mentioned.
+
+During last summer a traveler was found murdered near one of those
+prairies, but he had been dead so long it was impossible to ascertain
+who he was.
+
+
+Monday, Nov. 8.--Left Dermott's at 7 o'clock. Crossed a prairie five
+miles wide. Met with a new species of game called prairie hens. They are
+very much like the pheasant, and I am of the opinion they are the
+grouse. Plenty of deer and turkeys. Crossed a prairie twelve miles broad
+and arrived at the house of Rutherford, the second man on the cutthroat
+list. We had time enough to pass this house, but having a list of
+desperadoes, and being disappointed in seeing Gatewood, curiosity
+induced us to spend the night. This was a piece of comedy for
+information which was near ending in tradegy. Our traveling party
+consisted of four persons, Dr. Hill, myself and two young men,
+strangers, from Kentucky. As we traveled in a little carriage, and with
+a pair of horses, we placed our fellow-travelers' baggage with our own,
+which made a considerable show. On our arrival a man dressed like a
+Quaker pretended to be hostler until he ascertained the quantity of our
+baggage. I recognized him as an engraver from Philadelphia, who had been
+a candidate for the penitentiary for forgery. We called for the
+landlord, and were informed by Mrs. Rutherford that he was from home,
+but we could be well entertained and made comfortable in every way. Mrs.
+R. is a young and beautiful woman, possessing a delicacy of features and
+an elegance of shape, but seldom to be met with in those cabins of
+misery. The lily and the rose appeared to vie with each other to gain
+the ascendency on her cheeks. Her teeth were even, beautifully white and
+well placed. Her hair curled in irregular ringlets down her neck. She
+smiled on all. Her eyes were quick, black, sparkling and full of
+impudence and bold and disagreeable looks.
+
+    "O woman, if by simple wile
+       Thy soul has strayed from honor's track,
+     'Tis mercy only can beguile,
+       By gentle ways, the wanderer back.
+     Go, go, be innocent and live!
+       The tongues of men may wound thee sore,
+     But heaven in pity can forgive,
+       And bids thee go and sin no more."
+
+We spent our time very agreeably for about two hours. My friend was so
+much fascinated with this western beauty that I began to conclude his
+common stock of gallantry had much improved since his arrival in this
+fertile country. Indeed, they appeared mutually pleased and the fleeting
+hours seemed almost too short for the full enjoyment of each other's
+conversation. Myself and fellow-travelers enjoyed their mirth and jokes.
+Little did my friend dream a frightful cloud was hovering over him which
+threatened to darken all his bright prospects. We were suddenly startled
+by the shrill Indian warwhoop, which proceeded from a thicket near the
+house. It may not be amiss to mention here this warwhoop was what my
+friend had never heard before. It appeared to pass over his frame like
+an electrical shock, and from his being an elegant man, six feet high,
+and in a lover's attitude, he was reduced to about three feet in height,
+with knees as high as his chin and the points of his shoulders higher
+than his head. In this situation he prespired very freely. We were not
+kept long in a state of suspense. Rutherford and three sturdy fellows,
+armed, entered the house, all half-drunk. They took no notice of us, but
+eyed our baggage, which was heaped on the floor. They drank freely of
+whisky, and appeared in fine spirits. As one of our companions was
+passing a small log house, in which food was kept, he heard men
+whispering, which he informed me of. I immediately got a candle.
+Searched the house, but did not see any person. However, as I was
+returning, I found two tall men hid in the chimney, who, on being spoken
+to, went into the house, making six all together, and most of them very
+tall. They were armed with rifles and butcher knives, without coats or
+hats, their sleeves rolled up, their beards long and their faces
+smutted, such as the bravos are represented in the play of "The
+Foundling of the Forest." We had been anxious to see some of these
+banditti, but we did not contemplate seeing so large a company or having
+so full a visit from the fraternity. Rutherford disguised himself and
+denied that he was landlord, or that he lived at the place. It was not
+long before we were informed of the business of those devil-like looking
+visitors. Some of their private consultations were overheard. Robbery
+and murder was contemplated. They would frequently whisper and pinch
+each other, wink, eye us, then hunch each other and give a number of
+private signals which we did not understand. One observed "the trap door
+was too open," "that the boards were too wide apart," in a loud tone of
+voice. The reply was: "By G----, it should be screwed up tight enough
+before morning!" They often mentioned the names of the cut-throats we
+had on our list as their particular friends and associates. They also
+spoke of the two men who had been murdered the day before, and
+acknowledged that they ate their last meal in the house we were in.
+Laughed at the manner in which the throats of one of these unfortunate
+men was cut, and many other circumstances which would swell this
+memorandum too much. Convinced us beyond a doubt they were of the
+banditti that had been described to us. Our own safety now became a
+matter of serious consideration, and our party of four held a
+consultation after the robbers' consultation was over (which was held in
+the dark a little way from the house). The two strangers that we
+overtook on the road were firm-spirited, and declared we would die side
+by side or conquer if attacked. I am almost ashamed to add that a man
+whom I have named as friend in my memorandum, whom I have known for
+years, and with whom I had traveled 1,000 miles, expressed himself to
+the following effect: "By G----, instead of joining us he would take
+care of himself!" and insinuated that he would join the strongest side,
+and immediately went into the house and placed himself among the
+ruffians.
+
+
+
+
+IV.--ESCAPE FROM THE ROBBER BAND
+
+
+Monday, Nov. 8, 1819.--The disappointment experienced from the unmanly
+conduct of Dr. Hill had a happy effect on our little company. It bound
+us more firmly and nearer together, and, I may add with truth, almost
+fitted us for the field of battle. The hour of 9 o'clock had now
+arrived, the night uncommonly dark and cloudy. On our going into the
+house one of the strangers went into the yard and gave the Indian
+warwhoop three times very loud. About 10 o'clock they took their six
+rifles, went into the yard with a candle and shot them off one by one,
+snuffing the candle at forty yards every shot. They then loaded afresh,
+primed and picked their flints. A large horn was then taken from the
+loft and blown distinctly three times very loud. All those signals
+(which we had been told of) brought no more of the company. They then
+dispatched two of their own party, who were gone until 12 o'clock. They
+stated to their comrades "they could not be had." It may be readily
+imagined, after what we had overhead, seeing such preparations and
+observing many of their private signals, being warned of our danger
+previous to stopping at the house, together with the recent and cruel
+murders which had been committed, in a strange country, where every man
+made and executed his own law to suit himself--I say it cannot be a
+matter of wonder that our situation began to put on a character of the
+most unpleasant kind. However, we were well armed, having pistols,
+dirks, knives and a gun, and were determined, if necessity should
+require, to be murdered in the house, and not to be dragged into the
+woods, there to have our throats cut. It being a little after 12 o'clock
+the bravos proposed to take a drink and lie down on the floor to rest,
+which they did, and upon their arms. The house being very small they
+almost covered the floor of one room. The small back room was intended
+for us. There was no door to the partition, and the logs were about six
+inches apart. We were under some apprehension that in case of an attack
+they would be able to fire on us through the logs. After they were all
+still, myself and companions lay down in reach of each other, our
+clothes on, our dirks unsheathed, the guards off our pistols and three
+extra bullets in our gun, and agreed if a signal was given to fight the
+good fight. I had like to have forgotten Dr. Hill. He had placed
+himself on the far side of the bed upon which I lay and had got out of
+the wall a small log, but not of sufficient size in case of accident to
+allow him to make his escape. Although the evening was cool the drops of
+sweat stood upon his forehead as large as peas. He complained of great
+pain about the kidneys and that his head hung loose upon his shoulders.
+Knowing those fellows were expert at cutting throats, from their
+conversation on that subject, I determined to put them to as much
+trouble as possible. Took off my cravat and twisted my silk handkerchief
+and tied it round my neck. In this situation we spent the night. We lay
+on our arms ready for the word. But little sleep. When they would move
+we did the same. If they coughed we followed the example. In this
+dreadful way the night was spent. I have no hesitation of declaring that
+if we had not been well armed or kept a strict watch we should have been
+robbed and murdered, and nothing but the fear of our killing a part of
+them kept their hands off. Could they have added to their numbers by
+their signals, our fate would have been certain. It is probable the
+balance of their party was engaged in some other enterprise. About the
+break of day the signal of rising was given by our visitors. We were on
+our feet in a minute, and our hands upon our arms. Three of them
+examined their rifles, and, after having some conversation with their
+comrades, proceeded up the road we had to travel. I presumed to place
+themselves behind trees and fire upon us without the risk of being
+killed. We lost no time in placing our baggage in our carriage and
+getting ready to leave this robbers' den. After paying our bill and
+being ready for a start, one of the brotherhood begged I would take my
+saddlebags into the house again; that he wanted a dose of medicine for
+one who was very sick. This I declined doing, suspecting his object, and
+advised him to call on some person with whom he was better acquainted.
+We then bid adieu to Mr. Rutherford, his family, the banditti and the
+edge of the twelve-mile prairie. We had not traveled more than half a
+mile when we fell in with four travelers going to St. Louis, which
+increased our number to eight persons, and placed us out of danger. In
+making a memorandum of this unpleasant transaction, many important
+circumstances and some facts have been omitted. To have given a full
+detail would have taken more time than is in my power to devote at this
+time.
+
+
+Tuesday, Nov. 9.--Traveled forty-two miles from Rutherford's to
+McCart's, a tolerably respectable house, which is a rare thing in this
+part of the country. Large prairies, one twenty-two miles wide. Rich
+land, but of little value, the proportion of timber being too small,
+water being scare and its situation remote. Crossed the Okaw or
+Kaskaskia river and two branches of Silver creek on the 10th and 11th
+days of the month; distance, fifty-four miles. Arrived at the town of
+Illinois, on the Mississippi, a little village opposite St. Louis. We
+crossed part of the American bottom, which has the appearance of once
+having been the bed of some lake or river. It abounds in marine
+substances. It is bounded by high and rocky cliffs from 100 to 300 feet
+in height. The marks washed in these cliffs centuries ago at high and
+low water mark are plain to be seen. The American bottom is about 120
+miles long and from two to seven miles in breadth; contains some creeks
+and lakes; is perfectly level, without a stump or root. Soil, ten feet
+deep, black as ink, very light, and I think I may add without the fear
+of contradiction that it is the richest land in the world. The town of
+Illinois is on part of the American bottom, which is low, flat and
+unhealthy. Bilious fevers in all their various shapes are to found in
+almost every family for forty miles around. More pale and
+deathly-looking faces seen in the last two days than I have even seen in
+Philadelphia in two months. Crossed over the bold river Illinois to St.
+Louis and bid adieu for the present to Illinois. So far much
+disappointed in the inhabitants, but not in the land. Illinois is the
+hiding place for villains from every part of the United States, and,
+indeed, from every quarter of the globe. A majority of the settlers have
+been discharged from penitentiaries and gaols or have been the victims
+of misfortune or imprudence. Many of those will reform, but many, very
+many, are made fit for robbery and murder. High as our country stands
+above others for its perfection, yet it has curses which at times
+threaten to sink it on a level with the most disgraced. Slavery and
+penitentiaries have done more mischief than war or disease. I hope to
+see the day when there will be universal emancipation, when the
+penitentiaries of the United States will be changed from schools of vice
+to schools of virtue. Then will the United States be the admiration of
+all the nations of the world, and he that is born within their bounds
+will be proud of the land that gave him birth.
+
+
+Friday, Nov. 12.--Remained this day in St. Louis. The town is not very
+handsome or large. The streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses,
+with a few exceptions, meanly built. It appears the attention of the
+inhabitants has been turned solely toward making money. Taste and art as
+yet have been much neglected. Visited the Roman chapel. Although
+unfinished it is a spacious, handsome building. The new bank is of
+modern shape, in appearance, a very neat little building. Visited the
+Indian museum or grand council or war chamber, which contains many
+specimens of curious workmanship, and a number of curiosities presented
+to the government by the chiefs of different nations. Visited the
+theater. This is only a temporary building. It is placed in the middle
+of a duck puddle, is finished in the coarsest manner and of the meanest
+materials. The decorations inside are few. The gallery will contain
+about ten persons and the house 200. No danger of fire. The water rises
+in the pit and in case of emergency a tolerably brisk fellow might run
+head foremost through any part of it. In ridiculously ugly and slight
+appearance it surpasses all ever seen or heard of. It is not half so
+large or half so good as the common horse-stables in Philadelphia.
+
+
+Saturday, Nov. 13.--Left St. Louis at 6 o'clock a. m. Crossed the
+Mississippi to Illinois on my way to Kaskaskia. Passed a small village
+called Cahokia, a miserable, dirty little hole. But very few good
+houses. Inhabitants half French, half Indian, retaining part of the
+manners of both. The French language is generally spoken, but not in its
+purity. For eight or ten miles we traveled on the American bottom,
+which, in all probabilities, never was surpassed in fertility. After
+leaving the bottom the country is rather hilly and barren. Traveled
+twenty-two miles and lodged at Waterloo, a town without houses. Only two
+families in the place. Every land speculator produces one or more of
+these dirt-cabin villages. Indeed, two-thirds of the travelers met with
+are land speculators. The inhabitants of this part of the country appear
+to be a wretched set of beings. Their great-coats are made out of a
+blanket, with a cap or hood out of the same piece. Then moccasins and
+leggins complete the suit. Uncover a Frenchman's head and his friends
+are immediately alarmed for his health. The pig pens in Pennsylvania are
+generally as clean and much better built than the miserable huts
+occupied by these lazy people. In a state of almost starvation they hold
+their Gumbo balls twice a week. For nimbleness of foot and lightness of
+heart the French have never been surpassed.
+
+    "Hope springs eternal in the human breast;
+     Man never is, always to be, blest."
+
+Excellent wages in this country for hired people, either black or white,
+men or women. It is very common for a log cabin tavern without a door or
+window (perhaps a log out to answer both purposes) to sup and lodge
+twenty persons, men women and children. A living is so easily obtained
+in this rich country that the most industrious of the inhabitants soon
+grow indolent. Perhaps the ague and fever unfits them for exertion or
+labor, but those things or something not accounted for produces
+laziness.
+
+
+Sunday, Nov. 14.--Left Waterloo and traveled twenty miles to breakfast
+at Mrs. LaCount's in the little ancient French village called Prairie De
+Rouche or Rocky Meadows. In traveling this distance I saw only three
+houses. Just before I arrived at the village Prairie De Rouche we
+descended a hill half a mile in height and entered again on the American
+bottom. The lands are hilly, barren and full of limestone. Game of all
+descriptions in great abundance. Mme. LaCount entertained us politely.
+She is considered the queen of this little village, which is the sum and
+substance of everything that is poor and miserable. Mme. LaCount's
+daughter being ill, I was deprived of a great deal of valuable
+information. She speaks good English, and is a very sensible,
+intelligent young lady for such a village. The houses here have the most
+antique and mean appearance, built of the barks of trees and puncheons,
+slabs, etc., often without doors. Their windows are without sashes, but
+small pieces of broken glasses of all shapes pasted ingeniously
+together with paper serve to admit the light upon a motley family,
+between white, red and black. Many of those wretched hovels are ready to
+tumble down on the heads of starving Indians, French and negroes, all
+mixed together. Negro-French is the common language of this town.
+Indeed, unless you can speak some French it is with much difficulty you
+can find any person who can understand you. Left Mme. LaCount's,
+traveled twelve miles over an extremely fertile country and arrived at
+Kaskaskia a little before sunset.
+
+
+Monday, Nov. 15.--Remained in this inconsiderable village this day. Much
+disappointed in the appearance of the long-talked-of Kaskaskia. It is
+situated on the Okaw or Kaskaskia river, three miles from the
+Mississippi. It never can be a place of much business. The land office
+is kept at this place. There are some neat buildings, but they are
+generally old, ugly and inconvenient. Their streets are irregular and of
+bad widths. The inhabitants are all generals, colonels, majors, land
+speculators or adventurers, with now and then a robber and a cutthroat.
+I have to keep my long knife sharp and my eyes open. Went to church at
+night. A fellow tried to pick my pocket. Had my hand upon my long
+knife.
+
+
+Tuesday, Nov. 16.--Dr. Hill having business at the lead mine, I
+consented to wait until his return. Wanting amusement, I engaged in
+hunting. Among other game I wounded a parrot, an uncommonly handsome
+bird, with rich plumage. It appeared to possess all the sagacity of the
+tame parrot. When it was first wounded it made every effort to defend
+itself, but after remaining a captive for a short time it appeared
+pleased with every kind attention, as do the domesticated parrots of the
+West Indies. In hunting, passed over a field that contains 5,000 acres
+of land, principally under cultivation. This field is part of the
+American bottom and is the common property of all the French of
+Kaskaskia. This land produces from sixty to 120 bushels of corn to the
+acre. More fertile land I never beheld. The inhabitants are subject to
+intermittent fevers. At this time there are thousands of acres of this
+excellent land for sale at from $4 to $8 an acre, and a good proportion
+woodland. Dr. Hill not having returned on the 17th, I took a ride, the
+day being pleasant in consequence of a refreshing shower. Visited the
+governor's house, a miserable-looking old building, such as is found in
+the suburbs of towns. Crossed the great Okaw or Kaskaskia river. The
+water not knee-deep and about 100 yards wide. Visited the
+lieutenant-governor's house, which is situated across this stream,
+opposite and in sight of Kaskaskia. This is the best-looking house in
+the place. It is painted white, but stands alone, without garden, yard
+or ornament of any kind. A worm fence is run around the house to keep
+the pigs out of the first story. Col. Menard, the lieutenant-governor,
+is a coarse-looking Frenchman, with all the habits, manners and dress of
+the common ... of Philadelphia. Visited the Indian king of the Kaskia
+Indians and his people, who reside about three miles from the village.
+This nation is now reduced to about thirty in number. Many years ago all
+the different tribes of Indians combined, fell upon the Kaskians when
+they were unprepared for battle, and cut to pieces all their warriors,
+except about fifteen, and most of their women and children. The king of
+this little nation is a fine, majestic-looking man, six feet high. He
+spoke French. Was polite and more gentlemanly in his deportment than
+some of those great men of the place. He was very much indisposed. I had
+the honor of prescribing for him. The names, manners and customs of
+these people are such as are common among Indians, with this exception,
+that they are rather more comfortable as to living, etc. I was very much
+struck with the appearance of one of the young men. He is tall,
+straight, elegant and unassuming in his manners, has fine, regular
+features, and possesses as mild and intelligent a countenance as is to
+be found in more civilized life. His eyes are dark, expressive and
+beaming with goodness, instead of ferocity.
+
+
+Thursday, Nov. 18.--Dr. Hill not having returned, time passed heavily
+on. Hunted occasionally and visited the king again. I found his state of
+health much improved. He was very polite. Conversed sensibly and invited
+me to hunt with him. I took the rounds amongst his people. Found them
+generally in bark huts, sitting flat on the floor, making moccasins,
+etc. As none but the chief could speak English, I was deprived of the
+pleasure of conversation. In one of these bark huts without a door (and
+placed at a considerable distance from the other lodges) sat a female
+who was recently confined. This female had retired to this cold and open
+hut during her indisposition. She was alone from choice, and held down
+her head at my approach and showed signs of disapprobation. How
+commendable the modesty, even in a savage! She was placed in the middle
+of the floor near a handful of coals, seated on a buffalo robe and
+thinly dressed. The day was cold and she was without any appearance of
+what we call comfort. A small mug of herb tea was her drink, and there
+was no food to be seen. This female had twin children, which is a
+remarkable occurrence amongst savages. These little strangers were
+bandaged tight from head to foot and lashed upon a board with one end
+sharpened for the convenience of the mother. Whenever she grows weary
+one end of the board is stuck into the ground and the children often are
+left for a considerable time. The appearance is singular, and would
+astonish those that had never seen the Indians' manner of treating their
+children. Indian children are white when born, their eyes very black.
+Their hair long, straight and black. Their features full and well-shaped
+with large, Roman noses. They look healthy and appear to live on
+one-half the nourishment which would be necessary for other children.
+During this visit I had an opportunity of seeing the king's daughter.
+She has adopted the civil dress and is polite and affable for a savage.
+She speaks but little English but speaks French fluently. Her father and
+self profess the Roman Catholic religion. This Indian is more comely
+than the rest of the females, but I have never been able to trace any
+lines of beauty about those children of the forest. This Indian king
+owns 2,000 acres of the American bottom. Part he rents out to advantage,
+and part he cultivates. He lives well and might live elegantly. I
+omitted to mention that Kaskaskia is the seat of government, which gave
+me an opportunity of seeing all the heads of departments, governor,
+lieutenant-governor, secretary of state, sheriffs, magistrates, etc.
+They are well suited to a new country and an infant state.
+
+
+Friday, Saturday and Sunday, Nov. 19-21.--Spent those days in Kaskia and
+its neighborhood in hunting, and rambling through this garden of a
+country, every day affording new amusement and presenting very
+interesting subjects for the mind to dwell upon. On this day, the 21st,
+Dr. Hill returned from the lead mine, a distance of forty-seven miles.
+He traveled over a poor and barren country and was not much pleased with
+his journey. He saw twenty deer in one herd, and was informed there were
+some buffalo, wildcats, wolves, etc., in the neighborhood.
+
+
+
+
+V.--IN POSSESSION OF THE "PROMISED LAND"
+
+
+Monday, Nov. 22, 1819.--This day breakfasted with Mr. R. Morrison and
+dined with Mr. W. Morrison. These gentlemen are wealthy and live in very
+comfortable style. Mrs. R. Morrison is one of the most intelligent women
+that I have conversed with, and possesses a lady's privilege, while Mrs.
+W. Morrison might rank, in point of beauty with some of the belles of
+Philadelphia. Dr. Hill having accomplished his business, we set out
+from Kaskia at 2 o'clock, after bidding a friendly farewell to many new
+friends made in this place. I must confess I found a few possessing so
+much more merit than I anticipated that I parted with them reluctantly.
+Traveled twelve miles, and arrived at Mme. LeCount's. We supped with a
+tableful of French. Not one of them could speak English. Pumpkins,
+spoiled venison and rancid, oily butter for supper, added to the odor of
+a few 'coons and opossums that were ripening in the sun, induced us to
+cut our comfort short. During the night I was taken ill with rheumatism.
+Bled myself largely. Set out at 6 o'clock in the morning rather better,
+though dull. Passed some small lakes full of ducks and geese. Saw seven
+deer, some wild turkeys and other game. Retraced our former steps.
+Passed Cahokia, a small and unimproving village, and arrived at the town
+of Illinois at 7 o'clock p. m.
+
+
+Wednesday, Nov. 24.--Crossed over to St. Louis to inquire for old
+friends or acquaintances from Philadelphia. Even an enemy would have
+been taken by the hand, but to my disappointment there was no arrival.
+Recrossed the Mississippi, and set out for Edwardsville. Passed some
+large lakes. Large and extremely fertile prairies, neat dwellings and
+good farms, well cultivated. Arrived at Edwardsville, a distance of
+twenty-two miles, at 7 o'clock. Edwardsville is a small but flourishing
+little village. Goods three prices. Labor high. Lands rich and the place
+thriving for an inland town.
+
+
+Friday, Nov. 26.--Rainy day. Deposited deeds at recorder's office.
+Detained on land business. I expected this day to have set out for the
+bounty lands. Dr. Hill having fully accomplished his business, he
+declined accompanying me agreeable to promise, and I returned to St.
+Louis alone, leaving him behind, intending to seek more grateful
+company.
+
+
+Wednesday, Dec. 1.--In consequence of the disappointment occasioned by
+Dr. Hill refusing to accompany me to the bounty lands, I was subjected
+to considerable expense, loss of time and much inconvenience. On the 3d
+day of December Dr. Hill set out for Philadelphia, in company with one
+of my friends, a Mr. Pratt, a clever old farmer and a missionary
+Methodist preacher. I accompanied them across the river. In parting with
+Dr. Hill I must in honesty confess I felt none of those unpleasant
+sensations produced at parting with a friend. A pleasant ride and a
+final adieu to him. After dividing my time between St. Louis and
+Illinois until the 8th day of December, I set out, in company with a
+Mr. B----, to visit the bounty lands. Traveled to Milton, a small town
+over the American bottom, twenty miles. This soil cannot be surpassed in
+fertility by any land upon the globe. Eighty and 100 bushels of corn to
+the acre are common crops without any labor except that which is
+necessary in planting. This, in truth, is the promised land--the land
+that flows with milk and honey. Stock in any quantities may be raised
+free from expense, and every article made by the farmer commands as high
+a price as in Philadelphia, and a more ready market. How many thousands
+are there in the eastern states who work like the slaves of the south
+and are barely able to support their families without even the hope in
+old age to become comfortable. Could they believe there was such a
+country in the world, could they know that lands of the first quality
+can be obtained so easily, and be informed that the rewards of industry
+are so great, they would instantly fly to the west and meet fatigue and
+hardships on the way with a smile. In a few years the consequence would
+be the accumulation of wealth and fair prospects for a rising family.
+Milton is situated on Wood river (a very small stream opposite the mouth
+of the Missouri river and within one and a half miles of the
+Mississippi). It is a flourishing little village only one and a half
+years old. Near this place lands command from $5 to $10 an acre.
+Milton, together with all the American bottom, is subject to bilious and
+intermittent fevers during the warm months. The banks of Wood river
+during the last war were often scoured by the Indians, and became the
+theater of some savage and barbarous deeds. A narrative hangs yet on the
+lips of the inhabitants, which has seldom found its parallel in the most
+remote desert by the most ferocious or bloodthirsty. Seven warriors
+attacked and murdered a female and her four little children almost in
+sight of her own dwelling. She and the little innocents had spent an
+evening at a friend's house, and were returning home. The shrieks of
+this unfortunate family brought the husband to the scalped and lifeless
+corpse of a beloved wife, and a tender and affectionate father to his
+four little children bleeding in death, the suckling child with a
+tomahawk sticking in its head. None but a husband and father can feel
+the deep agony which must arise from so bloody a transaction. Those
+warriors, whose companion was cruelty and whose happiness was in murder,
+were pursued by some resolute and spirited volunteers from the
+neighborhood. They were overtaken and every man put to death. Not long
+after this butchery another party fell upon a defenseless family in the
+same neighborhood. They shot an old man in his door, scalped a young
+female in the house and threw her in the fire, tomahawked and scalped
+two little children, whilst two boys made their escape--one 6 and the
+other 8 years old. These little children wandered about the fields and
+woods for three days without nourishment except the berries and roots
+which they were able to collect from the fields. Three times did they
+get in sight of the murderers, and as often hid themselves in the
+leaves, and finally found their way to a house and communicated the
+dreadful intelligence of the massacre. The hand that governs and
+protects all was outstretched to save these children in a manner
+unusual. I am now in sight of the death spot of those unfortunates, and
+expect to travel 100 miles farther, where but a short time since no
+track or trace was to be seen except that of the savage.
+
+
+Thursday, Dec. 9.--Left Milton at 6 o'clock. Passed Alton, distance from
+Milton one and one-half miles. Here I must remark every man makes his
+own town and sometimes more than one. Within five miles there are five
+towns, as they are called, but all insignificant and improperly placed.
+Their names are Milton, Alton, Middle Alton, Lower Alton and Sales.
+Those mushroom towns in a short time will produce their own death.
+Although their lives are short they do mischief to the community.
+People in their neighborhood are unwise enough, for the sake of having a
+town lot, to give as much for a few feet of ground as would purchase a
+good farm (160 acres of land). They are then tied to the little town,
+where their property can never be of much value, nor can it produce a
+living. Strangers or men at a distance purchase lots in towns they have
+never seen, under the impression they are, or soon will be, like the
+eastern cities. To townmakers or land speculators the subject is very
+pleasant. To hear them describe the advantages of a barren spot perhaps
+ten miles from any navigable stream, and it is more than probable not
+even near a spring branch that would float a cornstalk boat. Could you
+believe their assertions, a single lot which they have for sale would
+produce a fortune that would make a man comfortable all his old days. I
+must not omit an anecdote that applies well to those townmakers. A
+gentleman visited the fertile lands of Illinois. In the course of his
+journey he passed very many of those trifling towns. When about to turn
+toward his home he had occasion to enter a tavern for refreshment. Here
+they kept a register of names, a common practice in the western country.
+On entering the door the barkeeper requested him to enter his name. He
+hesitated, appeared confused and begged to be excused, stating he had a
+particular objection which he would make known when he was about to
+start, provided it could be kept a secret, which was consented to. This
+was sufficient to arouse the suspicions of all who were in the house as
+to the stranger's honesty. All the neighbors assembled. Some declared he
+was a horse thief, others a murderer, while the most charitable stated
+he had been a member of the penitentiary fraternity. After obtaining
+refreshments with some difficulty he mounted his horse amidst the gaping
+crowd, called for the barkeeper and whispered in his ear, loud enough
+for everybody to hear: "My name is Robinson. I objected to mentioning
+it, fearing you would name a town after me!" He spurred his horse, rode
+off and left the gaping crowd, which is always to be found about little
+villages, much disappointed and chagrined. Traveled twenty-seven miles
+over a rich country, part rolling, part broken, belonging to the United
+States. This part of Illinois is high and healthy and is well watered.
+Arrived at the Widow Jackaway's ferry, one mile above the junction of
+the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. Passed several small French huts,
+made principally of bark, very open and but little appearance of
+comfort. Large strings of geese, ducks, opossums and skunks hung upon
+the sides of the huts to ripen. At Mrs. Jackaway's we were entertained
+kindly. We slept on a bedcord and covered with a cow-hide. There was
+but one room to the house, hen house excepted, which formed rather a
+separate apartment, but without a door, and the fowls had to pass
+through the house to get to their lodgings. This appeared necessary to
+protect them from the wolves and wildcats.
+
+
+Friday, Dec. 10.--Left Mrs. Jackaway's at 8 o'clock. Crossed the
+Illinois on a platform placed on two canoes, and arrived in safety on
+the bounty lands a little above the junction of the bold Mississippi and
+the Illinois. Each of those rivers is about half a mile wide. Here a new
+country presented itself, of better quality and under more advantages
+than I was prepared to meet. Traveled all day through the woods, meadows
+and prairies. It began raining. We were fortunate in being able to reach
+Mme. Belfie's, on the banks of the Illinois. On inquiring if we could
+remain all night, being wet and uncomfortable, we were received with all
+the politeness that characterizes the French under all circumstances,
+and given in broken English a hearty welcome. Supper being prepared for
+the family, we were invited to partake. Curiosity, which has led us into
+many scrapes, was on tiptoe. Wild goose was very good. After fishing in
+the dish some time I found something with a new flavor. It proved to be
+skunk. Made a light supper and retired to bed. Mme. Belfie lives in a
+log hut about twelve feet square. This contains a bed for the old lady
+and her daughter, two dogs, one hen and chickens, two chairs, and one
+table. It is easy to imagine there was not much room left for two
+common-sized men. However, we spread down our buffalo-skin and covered
+with our great-coats, and for the first time I slept on a floor. Sore
+sides, but good spirits and no cold. Began to envy the red-men of the
+forest. They have no care, no trouble, to wrinkle the brow.
+
+
+Sunday, Dec. 12.--Left Mme. Belfie's after being treated with the utmost
+hospitality and politeness. She discovered herself to be a wellbred
+woman, but she was not one of fortune's favorites. During the evening
+she amused us by giving a small history of her life. However, her story
+ended with a detail of misfortunes. About seven years ago a dreadful
+earthquake occurred at New Madrid, on the Mississippi where was the
+habitation of this lady and her husband. Their home was swallowed up,
+their slaves ran away, all their property was lost, and with great
+difficulty got off with their lives. The earth opened and swallowed up
+many houses, then threw up water and trees to a great height. Several
+lives were lost and many families ruined. These unfortunate French
+people then sought shelter from the storm near the forks of the
+Mississippi and Illinois rivers, intending, by industry and frugality,
+to make an effort to get forward once more in the world. The manner in
+which this old lady gave an account of her misfortunes was truly
+interesting whilst she made a strong impression on the mind by her
+gestures. The only article saved from the earthquake was a bag of
+gunpowder, with which, in this country, where there is an abundance of
+game, plenty of provisions may be obtained. It was necessary that the
+bag containing this powder should be tied. The wife held whilst the
+husband tied the string, but drawing it very tight one end slipped
+through his fingers and the jerk threw the bag of powder into the fire,
+which blew them both up and burnt all their clothes off them. They were
+ill a considerable time, but recovered. They had nothing left, but, like
+the French, they were cheerful, not discouraged, and almost happy. They
+are now getting forward again, and, oh, may the storm of adversity never
+again assail the cottage of genuine hospitality!
+
+
+Monday, Dec. 13.--Left Mme. Belfie's, crossed the Illinois and
+breakfasted at the Widow Jackaway's. Here we met with some travelers,
+ladies and gentlemen, who had been upwards of three months on the water
+in an open boat. They were forty-nine days on Lake Michigan and were
+bound from Mackinaw to St. Louis. We retraced our former footsteps for
+four miles and traveled on the shore of the Mississippi twelve miles. On
+the shore of the Mississippi for miles stand cliffs or bluffs composed
+of rocks, stones and marine substances. They are from 100 to 400 feet
+high. In many places there appear to be pillars or regular columns
+supporting those wonderful heights, which in many places appear almost
+ready to tumble on those below. In the body of this irregular mass I
+entered three caves, two large enough to protect a considerable family
+from the storm and the third sufficiently large to contain twenty men on
+horseback. This cave is supported by a neat pillar in the center. In
+several places I saw marks on the cliffs at a considerable height made
+with the different colors that Indians use to paint themselves. From
+their arrangement, it appears the men of the desert had tried their
+agility to place the highest mark on the cliffs. Near those caves are
+the names of a number of persons cut in the soft parts of the rocks. In
+traveling along the shore I picked up several specimens of the most
+beautiful pearl I ever beheld. It is so plentiful here that no person
+thinks it worth picking up. After traveling forty-three miles through
+the rain I arrived again at St. Louis on the 13th of December. In
+approaching the Illinois and Mississippi near the mouth from Milton a
+scene beautiful, grand and sublime presents itself. Immediately after
+leaving a thick wood you find yourself on the point of a knob or small
+mountain many hundred feet high. From this eminence you have a view of
+three bold and beautiful streams--the Mississippi, Illinois and
+Missouri. The country on one side is bordered with very high bluffs as
+far as the eye can reach, and on the other is a meadow or plain prairie,
+which extends for many miles in every direction, and occasionally is
+interspersed with handsome forest trees. The shells and marine
+substances which are found near those large rivers are similar to those
+seen in the West Indies and on the seaboard, but I have no recollection
+of ever having seen such near any stream remote from the sea. This, with
+many other appearances, holds out a strong inducement to believe that
+the sea once covered this country for many hundred miles; that the
+cliffs were its borders, and that some violent convulsion of nature has
+caused it to recede and expose to view the most fertile country on the
+globe. Should accident place this memorandum in the hands of any person,
+an apology will be necessary for expressions and opinions which it
+contains. In speaking of particular states and people I have expressed
+myself as a traveler, but have stated facts. The country traveled over
+by strangers is generally the most barren, and the inhabitants a coarse
+sample of the state. When I have expressed an opinion which appears not
+to be liberal, it is intended to apply to the lower class, of whom there
+is a large majority. A gentleman or lady is the same all over the world,
+and although in the different states there are many characters of the
+first respectability, and although some of the French are rich, liberal
+and gentlemanly men, yet this memorandum is strictly correct when
+applied to the general mass.
+
+                                                      RICHARD LEE MASON.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Transcriber's note
+
+
+Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without notice. A few
+obvious typographical errors have been corrected, and they are listed
+below. All other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's
+spelling has been maintained.
+
+Page 17: "covered wth forest" changed to "covered with forest".
+
+Page 18: "was this day week that" changed to "was this day last week that".
+
+Page 73: "opinion which is contains" changed to "opinion which it
+contains".
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of Richard Lee Mason in the
+Pioneer West, 1819, by Richard Lee Mason
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