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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/26924-8.txt b/26924-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d9fd0e --- /dev/null +++ b/26924-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5765 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Flash-lights from the Seven Seas, by William L. Stidger + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Flash-lights from the Seven Seas + +Author: William L. Stidger + +Commentator: Bishop Francis J. McConnell + +Release Date: October 14, 2008 [EBook #26924] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLASH-LIGHTS FROM THE SEVEN SEAS *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Lee + + + + + + + + +FLASH-LIGHTS +FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + +WILLIAM L. STIDGER + + + + +[Illustration: MT. TAISHAN, CHINA, SAID TO BE THE OLDEST WORSHIPPING +PLACE ON EARTH.] + + + + + FLASH-LIGHTS + FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + + + BY + WILLIAM L. STIDGER + + AUTHOR OF "STANDING ROOM ONLY," "STAR + DUST FROM THE DUGOUTS," "OUTDOOR + MEN AND MINDS," ETC. + + + WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY + + BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL + + + ILLUSTRATED + FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY + THE AUTHOR + + + NEW YORK + GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1921, + BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY + + + PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA + + + + + DEDICATED TO + + MARY I. SCOTT + + A WOMAN FRIEND + WHO PUSHED BACK THE HORIZONS OF + THE WORLD AND LED ME TO THE + BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL THAT + HAS NO END: THE TRAIL OF + DREAMS AND TRAVEL + + + + +INTRODUCTION + +BY BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL + + +The Rev. William L. Stidger is one of the most thoroughly alive men in +the ministry today. He sees quickly, reacts instantaneously, and knows +how to bring others to a like alertness of mental and spiritual seizure. +If it be said of him that he is impressionistic it must be remembered +that the impressions are made on a mind of sound purpose and +communicated to others for the sake of the truth behind the impression. +His narratives of travel do not belong in the guide-book category or in +that of the scientific geography. But if you wish to know what it would +be like to visit yourself the countries described, the reading of Mr. +Stidger's sketches will help you. If it be said that what one after all +is getting is the Stidger view, it must not be forgotten that the +Stidger view is marvellously vital and enkindling. The Stidger vitality +is bracing and health-giving. It is a tonic for all of us who are +getting a little old and sluggish. The contagion of youth and energy are +in this book: it will reach and stir all who read. + + +FRANCIS J. MCCONNELL + +_Pittsburgh, Pa._ + + + + +FOREWORD + + +That vast stretch of opal islands; jade continents; sapphire seas of +strange sunsets; mysterious masses of brown-skinned humanity; +brown-eyed, full-breasted, full-lipped and full-hipped women; which we +call the Orient, can only be caught by the photographer's art in +flash-light pictures. + +It is like a photograph taken in the night. It cannot be clear cut. It +cannot have clean outlines. It can only be a blurred mass of humanity +with burdens on their shoulders; humanity bent to the ground; creaking +carts; weary-eyed children and women; moving, moving, moving; like +phantom shadow-shapes; in and out; one great maze through the majestic +ages; one confused history of the ancient past; emerging; but not yet +out into the sunlight! + +Such masses of humanity; such dim, uncertain origins of unfathered +races; these can only be caught and seen as through a glass darkly. + +Paul Hutchinson, my friend, in "The Atlantic Monthly" says of China what +is true of the whole Orient: + + "In this vast stretch of country, with its poor communications, + we can only know in part. When one sets out to generalize he + does so at his own peril. The only consolation is that it is + almost impossible to disprove any statement; for, however + fantastical, it is probably in accord with the facts in some + part of the land." + +The facts, fancies, and fallacies of this book are gleaned from the +rovings and ramblings of a solid year of over fifty-five thousand miles +of travel; through ten separate countries: Japan, Korea, China, the +Philippine Islands, French Indo-China, the Malay States, Borneo, Java, +Sumatra and the Hawaiian Islands; across seven seas: the Pacific Ocean, +the Sea of Japan, the North China Sea, the Yellow Sea, the South China +Sea, the Malacca Straits, and the Sea of Java; after visiting five wild +and primitive tribes: the Ainu Indians of Japan, the Igorrotes of the +Philippines, the Negritos of the same islands; the Dyaks of Borneo, and +the Battaks of Sumatra; face to face by night and day with new races, +new faces, new problems, new aspirations, new ways of doing things, new +ways of living, new evils, new sins, new cruelties, new fears, new +degradations; new hopes, new days, new ways, new nations arising; new +gods, and a new God! + +When one comes back from such a trip, having fortified himself with the +reading of many books written about these far lands, in addition to his +travel, one still has the profound conviction that, after all is said, +done, and thought out, the only honest way to picture these vast +stretches of land and humanity is to confess that all is in motion; like +a great mass of bees in a hive, one on top of the other, busy at +buzzing, buying, selling, living, dying, climbing, achieving; groping in +the dark; moving upward by an unerring instinct toward the light. + +At nights I cannot sleep for thinking about that weird, dim, misty +panorama of fleeting, flashing pictures; those thousands of Javanese +that I saw down in Sourabaya, who have never known what it means to have +a home; who sleep in doorways by night, and along the river banks; where +mothers give birth to children, who in turn live and die out under the +open sky. Nor can I forget that animal-like beggar in Canton who dug +into a gutter for his food; or those hideous beggars, by winter along +the railway in Shantung; or the naked one-year-old child covered with +sores which a beggar woman in the Chinese section of Shanghai held to +her own naked breast. Those pictures and a thousand others abide. + +One has the feeling that if he could go back, again, and again, and +again to these far shores, and live with these peoples and die with +them, then he would begin faintly to understand what it all means and +where it is all headed. + +And this author, for one, is honest in saying that, in spite of careful +investigation, in spite of extensive travel and a sympathetic heart, he +sees but dimly. The very glory of it all, the age of it all, the wonder +of it all, the mysterious beauty and thrill of it all; the thrill of +these masses of humanity, their infinite possibilities for future +greatness; like a great blinding flash of glory, dims one's eyes for a +time. + +But, now, that he has, through quiet meditation and perspective, had a +chance to develop the films of thought, he finds that he has brought +back home pictures that one ought not to keep to one's self; especially +in this day, when, what happens to Asia is so largely to determine what +happens to America. + +So, out of the dark room, where they have been developing for a year, +and out of the dim shadows of that mysterious land whence they came, +they are printed and at the bottom of each picture shall be written the +humble words: + + "Flash-Lights from the Seven Seas" + + +WILLIAM L. STIDGER. + +_Detroit, Michigan._ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + INTRODUCTION BY BISHOP FRANCIS J. MCCONNELL vii + + FOREWORD ix + +CHAPTER + + I FLASH-LIGHTS OF FLAME 19 + + II FLASH-LIGHTS PHYSICAL 33 + + III FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAITH 49 + + IV FLASH-LIGHTS OF FEAR 63 + + V FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIGHTFULNESS 79 + + VI FEMININE FLASH-LIGHTS 101 + + VII FLASH-LIGHTS OF FUN 123 + + VIII FLASH-LIGHTS OF FREEDOM 145 + + IX FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAILURE 165 + + X FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIENDSHIP 189 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + MT. TAISHAN, THE OLDEST WORSHIPPING PLACE + ON EARTH _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE + + THE WALLED CITY OF MANILA 48 + + BEAUTIFUL FILIPINO GIRLS 48 + + KOREAN GIRLS WITH AMERICAN IDEALS AND TRAINING 49 + + STEPPING ASIDE IN KOREA 49 + + CONFUCIUS TOMB AT CHUFU, CHINA 64 + + RUIN OF THE MING TOMBS 64 + + GRINDING RICE IN CHINA 65 + + A CAMEL TRAIN ENTERING PEKING 65 + + THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING 112 + + A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEEN-STORY PAGODA NEAR PEKING 112 + + A WAYSIDE TEMPLE AND SHRINE 113 + + A SUNRISE SILHOUETTE, JAVA 113 + + OLD BROMO VOLCANO, JAVA 128 + + A SIDE VIEW OF BEAUTIFUL BOROBOEDOER, JAVA 128 + + NAKED AND OTHERWISE 129 + + A DOG MARKET 129 + + + + +FLASH-LIGHTS FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + + + + +CHAPTER I + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FLAME + + +Fire! Fire! Fire everywhere! + +Fire in the sky, fire on the sea, fire on the ships, fire in the +flowers, fire in the trees of the forest; fire in the Poinsetta bushes +which flash their red flames from every yard and jungle. + +In the tropical lands flowers do not burst into blossom; they burst into +flame. Great bushes of flaming Poinsetta, as large as American lilac +bushes, burst into flame over night in Manila. + +That great tree, as large as an Oak, which they call "The Flame of the +Forest," looks like a tree on fire with flowers. One will roam the world +over and see nothing more beautiful than this great tree which looks +like a massive umbrella of solid flame. + +Every flower in the Orient seems to be a crimson flower. The tropical +heat of the Philippines, Java, Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay States and +India's far reaches; with beautiful Ceylon, and Burma; seems to give +birth to crimson child-flowers. + +The sunsets burst into bloom, as well as the flowers. There is no region +on earth where sunsets flare into birth and die in a flash-light of +glory and beauty like they do in the regions of the South China Sea. For +months at a stretch, every night, without a break, the most wildly +gorgeous, flaming, flaring, flashing crimson sunsets crown the glory of +the days. + +I have been interested in catching pictures of sunsets all over the +world. I have caught hundreds of sunsets with the Graflex; and other +hundreds have I captured with a Corona, just as they occurred; and I +have never seen a spot on earth where the sunsets were such glorious +outbursts of crimson and golden beauty as across the circling shores of +Manila Bay. + +Night after night I have sat in that ancient city and watched these +tumultuous, tumbling, Turner-like flashes of color. + +One night the sky was flame from sea to zenith across Manila Bay. It was +like a great Flame of the Forest tree in full bloom. Against this sky of +flaming sunset-clouds, hundreds of ships, anchored in the bay, lit their +lesser crimson lights; while, now and then, a battleship which was +signaling to another ship, flashed its message of light against the +fading glow of glory in the crimson sunset. + +"It is light talking unto light; flash unto flash; crimson unto +crimson!" said a friend who sat with me looking out across that +beautiful bay. + +The picture of that flaming sunset, with the great vessels silhouetted +against it; with the little lights on the ships, running in parallel +rows; and the flashing lights of signals from the masts of the +battleship will never die in one's memory. + +It was a quiet, peaceful scene. + +But suddenly, like a mighty volcano a burst of flame swept into the air +at the mouth of the Pasig River. It leapt into the sky and lighted up +the entire harbor in a great conflagration. The little ships stood out, +silhouetted against that great flaming oil tanker. + +"It's a ship on fire!" Otto exclaimed. + +"Let's go and see it!" I added. + +Then we were off for the mouth of the Pasig which was not far away. + +There we saw the most spectacular fire I have ever seen. A great oil +tanker full of Cocoanut-oil had burst into flame, trapping thirty men in +its awful furnace. Its gaunt masts stood out like toppling tree +skeletons from a forest fire against the now deepening might; made vivid +and livid by the bursting flames that leapt higher and higher with each +successive explosion from a tank of gasoline or oil. + +I got out my Graflex and caught several pictures of this flash-light of +flame, but none that will be as vivid, as lurid, or as lasting as the +flash-light that was etched into the film of my memory. + +The next flash-light of flame came bursting out of midnight darkness on +the island of Java. + +We were bound for old Bromo, that giant volcano of Java. We had started +at midnight and it would take us until daylight to reach the +crater-brink of this majestic mountain of fire. + +White flashes of light, leapt from Bromo at frequent intervals all night +long as we traveled on ponies through the tropical jungle trail, upward, +and onward to the brink of that pit of hell. + +White flashes of light leapt from Bromo at the narrow rail. They called +them "Night-Blooming Lilies," and sure enough they blanketed the rugged +pathway that night like so many tiny white Fairies. Indeed there was +something beautifully weird in their white wonder against the night. +They looked like frail, earth-angels playing in the star-light, sending +out a sweet odor which mingled strangely with the odor of sulphur from +the volcano. + +And back of all this was the background of that awful, thundering, +rumbling and grumbling volcano as somber as suicide. Strangely weird +flashes lighted the mountains for miles around. + +"It looks like heat lightning back at home," said an American. + +"Only the flashes are more vivid!" said another member of the party. + +Those flashes of light from the inner fires of the earth, bursting from +the fissures of restless volcano Bromo shall ever remain, like some +strange glimpse of a new Inferno. + +Volcanic Merapi, another belching furnace of Java, gave me a picture of +a flash-light of flame. + +The night that we stayed up on the old temple of Boroboedoer, Merapi was +unusually active; and now and then its flashes of flame lighted up the +whole beautiful valley between the temple and the mountain. + +At each flash of fire, the tall Bamboo and Cocoanut trees loomed like +graceful Javanese women in the midst of far-reaching, green, rice +paddies; while two rivers that met below us, wound under that light like +two silver threads in the night. + +Once, when an unusually heavy flash came from Merapi, we saw below us a +beautiful Javanese girl clasped in the arms of her brown lover. Each +seemed to be stark naked as they stood under a Cocoanut tree like Rodin +bronzes. + +It was this beautiful girl's voice that we later heard singing to her +lover a Javanese love song in the tropical night. + +This, I take it, was the Flame of Love; a flame which lights up the +world forever; everywhere her devotees, clothed or naked, are the same; +forever and a day; be it on the streets of Broadway; along the lanes of +the Berkshire Hills of New England; up the rugged trails of the Sierras; +or along the quiet, tree-lined streets of an American village. It is a +flame; this business of love; a flame which, flashing by day and night, +lights the world to a new glory. + + * * * * * + +One night the missionaries in Korea saw flames bursting out against the +hills. + +"What is it?" they cried, filled with fear. + +"The Japanese are burning the Korean villages!" said one who knew. + +All night long the villages burned and all night long the people were +murdered. Runners brought news to the hillsides of Seoul where anxious, +broken-hearted American missionaries waited. + +"One, two, three, four, five; ten, fifteen, twenty; thirty, forty, +fifty; a hundred, two hundred, three hundred; villages are burning," so +came the messages. + +The entire peninsula was lighted as with a great holocaust. + +It is said that the light could be seen from Fusan itself, a hundred +miles away. + +"From our village it looked like a light over a great American +steel-mill city," said a missionary to me. + +And when the morning came, the flames were still leaping high against +the crimson sky of dawn. + +For days this burning of villages continued. Belgium never saw more +ruthless flame and fire; set by sterner souls; or harder hearts! + +That was two years ago. + +The villages are charred ruins now. Some of them have never been +rebuilt. The murdered people of these villages have gone back to dust. + +The Japanese think that the fires are out. They thought, when the flames +of those burning villages ceased leaping into the skies; and at last +were but smouldering embers; that the flames had died. But the Japanese +were wrong, for on that very day, the Flames of Freedom began to burn in +Korean hearts and souls! And from that day to this; those flames have +been rising higher and higher. These are Flash-Lights of Flame that, as +the years go by; mount, like beacon lights of hope on Korean hills, to +light the marching dawn of Korean Independence. + + * * * * * + +A beautiful Korean custom that used to be; flashes a flame of fire +across the screen of history. + +In the old days the Korean Emperor used to have signals of fire flashed +from hill to hill running clear from the Chinese border to Seoul, the +Korean capital. This signal indicated that all was well along the +borders and that there was no danger of a Chinese invasion from the +north. + +Korea has always been a bone of contention between China, Russia and +Japan. Consequently this little peninsula has always walked on uneasy +paths, which is ever the fate of a buffer state. + +Never did a Korean Emperor go to sleep in peace until he looked out and +saw that the signal fires burned on the beautiful mountain peaks +surrounding the city of Seoul; fires indicating that the borders were +safe that night and that inmates of the palace might rest in peace and +security. + +"It must have been a beautiful sight to have seen the light flashing on +the mountain peak there to the north," I said to an eighty-year old +Korean patriarch. + +"It meant peace for the night," he answered. "It was beautiful. I often +long to see those fires of old burning again on yonder mountain." + +He said this with a dramatic wave of his stately white robed arm. + +"The sunsets still flame from that western mountain peak, overlooking +your city beautiful!" I said with a smile. + +"Yes, the sunsets still flame behind that peak," he responded with a +far-away look in his aged eyes. + +"Perhaps the good Christian God is lighting the fires for you?" I +suggested. + +"Yes, He, the good Christian God; is still lighting the fires for us; +but they are fires of freedom, fires of hope, and fires of Democracy!" +the old man said with a new light in his own flashing eyes. + +"And fires of peace," I added. + +"Yes, fires of Peace when freedom comes!" he responded. + +But whatever the political implications are; it is historically true +that this old custom had existed for years until the Japanese took +possession of Korea and stopped this beautiful tradition. + +But behind that same mountain from which the bonfires used to flash in +the olden days; indicating that the frontiers were safe for the night; +that no enemy hosts were invading the peninsula; behind that mountain +the fires of sunset still flame, flash, flare, and die away in the +somber purple shadows of night. + + * * * * * + +Nor shall one forget an evening at Wanju; a hundred miles from Seoul; +sitting in the Mission House looking down into that village of a hundred +thousand souls; watching the fires of evening lighted; watching a +blanket of gray-blue smoke slowly lift over that little village; +watching the great round moon slowly rise above a jutting peak beyond +the village to smile down on that quiet, peaceful scene in mid-December. + +Koreans never light their fires until evening comes and then they light +a fire at one end of the house, under the floor and the smoke and heat +travel the entire length of the house warming the rooms. It is a poor +heat maker but it is a picturesque custom. + +Thousands of flames lighted up the sky that night. The little thatch +houses, and the children in their quaint garbs moving against the flames +composed a strange Oriental Rembrandt picture. + + * * * * * + +Streets! Streets! Streets! + +Lights! Lights! Lights! + +Somehow streets and lights go together. + +We think of our great Broadway. We smile at our superior ingenuity when +we think of the "Great White Way." + +But for sheer beauty; fascinating, captivating, alluring, beauty; give +me the Ginza in Tokyo on a summer evening; with its millions of +twinkling little lights above the thousands of Oriental shops; with the +sound of bells, the whistle of salesmen, the laughter of beautiful +Japanese girls; the clacking of dainty feet in wooden shoes; and the +indefinable essence of romance that hovers over a street of this +Oriental type at night. I'll stake the romance, and beauty of the Ginza +in Tokyo, against any street in the world. He who has looked upon the +Ginza by night, has a Flash-Light of Flame; of tiny, myriad little +flaming lights; burned into his memory; to live until he sees at last +the lighted streets of Paradise itself. + + * * * * * + +Nor are the clothes of the Orient without their flaming colors. + +The beautiful kimonos of the Geisha girls of Japan; the crimson, gold, +and rose glory of the Sing Song Girls of China; the flashing reds of the +brown-skinned Spanish belles of the Philippines, as they glide, like +wind-blown Bamboo trees through the streets; and the lurid, livid, robes +which men and women alike wear in Borneo and Java. In fact all of the +clothes of the Orient, are flame-clothes. There are no quiet colors +woven into the gown of the Oriental. The Oriental does not know what +soft browns are. Crimson is the favorite color for man or woman. They +even make their sails red, blue, green and yellow. The beautiful colors +of the sailboats in the harbor of Yokohama is one of the first flashing +touches of the Orient that a traveler gets. From Japanese Obies, which +clasp the waists of Japanese girls, to Javanese Sarongs, the flame and +flash of crimson predominates in the gowns of both men and women. Where +an American man would blush to be caught in any sort of a gown with +crimson predominating save a necktie, the Japanese gentlemen, the +Filipino, the Malay, and the Javanese all wear high colors most of the +time. And the women are like splendid flaming bushes of fire all the +time. + +A Javanese bride is all flame as far as her dress is concerned. Her face +is powdered; her eyebrows are pencilled a coal black; her arms and +shoulders daubed with a yellow grease. As to her dress, the sarong is a +flaming robe that covers her body to the breasts; red being the dominant +color; with a crown of metal which looks like a beehive on her head. +Brass bracelets and ornaments on her graceful arms complete her costume. + + * * * * * + +Even the Pagodas and Temples of the Oriental lands are flame. + +The most beautiful Temples of Japan are the Nikko Temples. + +"See Nikko and you have seen Japan" is the saying that is well said. + +But when one has spent weeks or a week, days or a day at Nikko; he +comes away with an impression of beautiful, tall, terraced, +red-lacquered Pagodas; beautiful, graceful red-gowned women; beautiful, +architectural masterpieces of Oriental Temples; all finished in +wonderful red lacquer; beautiful red-cheeked women in the village +stores; beautiful red Kimonos for sale in the Curio shops; red berries +burning against the wonderful green grass; and all set off, against and +under, and crowned by wonderful green rows of great Cryptomaria trees. +These red Temples and these Red Pagodas--red with a red that is flaming +splendor of the last word in the lacquer artist's skill; are like +beautiful crimson jewels set in a setting of emerald. + +And back of all these Flash-Lights of Flame one remembers the path of a +single star on the smooth surface of Manila Bay at night; and the +phosphorescent beauty of Manila Bay where great ships cleave this lake +of fire when the phosphorus is heavy of a Summer night; and every ripple +is a ripple of flame. One remembers the continuous flash of heat +lightning down in Borneo and on Equatorial Seas; and one remembers the +Southern Cross; and the flash-lights of fire in a half-breed woman's +eyes. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +FLASH-LIGHTS PHYSICAL + + +The red dawn of tropical Java was near. The shadows of night were still +playing from millions of graceful Palm trees which swung gently in the +winds before the dawn. + +Three ancient volcanos, still rumbling in blatant activity, loomed like +gigantic monsters of the underworld, bulging their black shoulders above +the earth. Before us lay a valley of green rice paddies. + +We had roved over ancient Boroboedoer all night, exploring its haunted +crannies and corners, listening to its weird noises; dreaming through +its centuries of age; climbing its seven terraces. But in the +approaching dawn, the one outstanding thrill of the night was that of a +half-naked Javanese girl, who stood for an hour, poised in her brown +beauty on the top of one of the Bells of Buddha, with some weird +Javanese musical instrument, singing to the dawn. + +Then it came. + +"What? Her lover?" + +No! The dawn! The dawn was her lover! Or, perhaps her lover was old +Merapi. + +For, there, as we too, climbed to her strategic pinnacle of glory on top +of the Buddha Bell to watch the dawn that she had called up with her +weird music and her subtle brown beauty; before us, stretched thousands +of acres of green rice paddies, spread out like the Emerald lawn of an +Emerald Springtime in Heaven. Below us two silver streams of water met +and wedded, to go on as one. + +As we stood there that morning on the top of Boroboedoer's highest bell, +lines of Edna St. Vincent Millay swung into my soul: + + "All I could see from where I stood + Was three tall mountains and a wood." + +Only in this instance all I could see were three volcanos. And the one +in the center, old Merapi was belching out a trail of black smoke. These +three volcanos, take turns through the centuries. When one is working +the other two rest. When one ceases its activity, one of the others +takes up the thundering anthem and carries it on for a few years or +centuries and then lapses into silence, having done its part. While we +were there it was Merapi's turn to thunder and on this particular +morning Merapi was busy before daylight. + +For fifty miles along the horizon, a trail of black smoke swept like the +trail of black smoke which a train leaves in its wake on a still day. +There was not another cloud in the eastern skies. Nothing but that trail +of black smoke as we stood on the top of Boroboedoer at dawn and +watched. + +Then something happened. It was, as if some magician had waved a magic +wand back of the mountain. The rising sun was the magician. We saw its +heralds spreading out, like great golden fan-ribs with the cone of the +volcano, its direct center of convergence. Then before our astonished, +our utterly bewildered, and our fascinated eyes, that old volcanic cone +was changed to a cone of gold. Then the golden cone commenced to belch +forth golden smoke. And finally the trail of smoke for fifty miles along +the horizon became a trail of golden smoke. + +This was a Flash-Light that literally burned its way into our memories +to remain forever. + +There is another Flash-Light Physical which has to do with another +volcano which I mentioned in the preceding chapter. Bromo is its name. +It is still there, down on the extreme eastern end of Java, unless in +the meantime the old rascal has taken it into his demoniacal head to +blow himself to pieces as he threatened to do the day we lay on our +stomachs, holding on to the earth, with the sides trembling beneath us. + +Old Bromo was well named. It reminds one of Bromo-Seltzer. I had heard +of him long before I reached Java. I had heard of the Sand Plains down +into the midst of whose silver whiteness he was set, like a great +conical gem of dark purple by day and fire by night. + +Travelers said "You must see Bromo! You must see Bromo! If you miss +everything else see Bromo! It's the most completely satisfactory volcano +in the world." + +It was two o'clock in the morning when we started on little rugged +Javanese ponies up Bromo's steep slopes. + +At daybreak we reached the mile high cliff which looks down into the +world-famous Sand Sea. It was a sea of white fog. I have seen the same +thing at the Grand Canyon and in Yosemite looking down from the rims. I +thought of these great American canyons as I looked down into the Bromo +Sand Sea. By noon this was a great ten-mile long valley of silver sand +which glittered in the sunlight like a great silver carpeted ballroom +floor. Tourists from all over the world have thrilled to its strange +beauty. Like the gown of some great and ancient queen this silver cloth +lies there; or like some great silver rug of Oriental weaving it +carpeted that valley floor at noon. + +But at daybreak it was a sea of mist into which it looked as if one +might plunge, naked to the skin and wash his soul clean of its tropical +sweat and dirt; a fit swimming pool for the gods of Java, of whom there +are so many. + +Then something happened as we stood looking down into that smooth sea of +white fog, rolling in great billows below us. There was a sudden roar as +if an entire Hindenburg line had let loose with its "Heavies." There was +a sudden and terrific trembling of the earth under our feet which made +us jump back from that precipice in terror. + +Then slowly, as if it were on a great mechanical stage, the perfect cone +of old rumbling Bromo, from which curled a thin wisp of black smoke, +bulged its way out of the center of that sea of white fog, rising +gradually higher and higher as though the stage of the morning had been +set, the play had begun, and unseen stage hands behind the curtain of +fog, with some mighty derrick and tremendous power were lifting a huge +volcano as a stage piece. + +Then came the quick, burning tropical sun, shooting above the eastern +horizon as suddenly as the volcanic cone had been lifted above the fog. +This hot sun burned away the mists in a few minutes and there, +stretching below us, in all its oriental beauty was the sinewy, +voluptuous form of the silver sand sea--Bromo's subtle mistress. + + * * * * * + +There is another Physical Flash-light that will never die. + +Coming out of the Singapore Straits one evening at sunset, bound for the +island of Borneo across the South China Sea, I was sitting on the upper +deck of a small Dutch ship. The canvas flapped in the winds. A cool, +tropical breeze fanned our faces. Back of us in our direct wake a +splashing, tumbling, tumultuous tropical sunset flared across the sky. +It was crimson glory. In the direct path of the crimson sun a lighthouse +flashed its blinking eyes like a musical director with his baton beating +time. + +I watched this flashing, lesser, light against the crimson sunset and +was becoming fascinated by it. + +Then great black clouds began to roll down over that crimson background +as if they were huge curtains, rolled down from above, to change the +setting of the western stage for another act. + +But as they rolled they formed strange and beautiful Doric columns +against the crimson skies and before I knew it, I was looking at the +ruins of an old Greek temple in the sky. Then the black clouds formed a +perfect hour-glass reaching from the sea to the sky, with its background +of crimson glory, and the little lighthouse seemed to be flashing off +the minutes in the arteries of that hour-glass. + +And then it was night a deep, dense, tropical night; heavy with +darkness; rich with perfume; weird with mystery. But the sunset of +crimson; the Doric temple in ruins; the hour-glass; and the flashing +lighthouse still remained. + + * * * * * + +And who shall ever forget the sunsets of gold across Manila Bay night +after night; with great warships and majestic steamers, sleek and +slender cutters, white sails, long reaching docks, and graceful Filipino +women, silhouetted against the gold? And who shall forget the domes, +towers, and pinnacles of the Cathedrals; and the old fort within the +city walls as they too were silhouetted against the gold of the evening? + + * * * * * + +Mt. Taishan, the oldest worshiping place on earth, not far from the +birthplace of Confucius; in Shantung; is one of the most sacred shrines +of the Orient. There, countless millions, for hundreds of centuries, +have climbed over six thousand granite steps, up its mile high slope to +pay their vows; to catch a view of the blue sea from its imminence; to +feel the sweep, wonder and glory of its sublime height, knowing that +Confucius himself gloried in this climb. The exaltation of that glorious +view; shall live, side by side, with the view from the top of the Black +Diamond range in Korea one winter's night as we caught the full sweep +of the Japan Sea by sunset. In fact these all shall live as great +mountain top Physical Flash-Lights etched with the acid of a burning +wonder into one's soul! + +Nor shall one ever forget a month's communion with Fujiyama, that +solitary, great and worshiped mountain of Japan; sacred as a shrine; +beautiful with snow; graceful as a Japanese woman's curving cheek; +bronzed by summer; belted with crimson clouds by sunset like a Japanese +woman's Obie. It, too, presented its unforgettable Physical +Flash-Lights. + +The first glimpse was one of untold spun-gold glory. There it stood. + +"There it is! There it is! Look!" a fellow traveler cried. + +"There is what?" I called. We were on top of a great American College +building in Tokyo. + +"It's Fuji!" + +I had given up hope. We had been there two weeks and Fujiyama was not to +be seen. The mists, fogs, and clouds of winter had kept it hidden from +our wistful, wondering, waiting eyes. + +But there it stood, like a naked man, unashamed; proud of its white +form; without a single cloud; burning in the white sunlight. Its huge +shoulders were thrown back as with suppressed strength. Its white chest, +a Walt Whitman hairy with age; gray-breasted with snow; bulged out like +some mighty wrestler, challenging the world. No wonder they worship it! + +I had gloried in Fujiyama from many a varied viewpoint. I had caught +this great shrine of Japanese devotion in many of its numberless moods. +I had seen it outlined against a clear-cut morning sunlight, bathed in +the glory of a broadside of light fired from the open muzzle of the sun. +I had seen it shrouded in white clouds; and also with black clouds +breeding a storm, at even-time. I had seen it with a crown of white upon +its brow, and I had seen it with a necklace of white cloud pearls about +its neck. + +Once I saw this great mountain looking like some ominous volcano through +a misty gray winter evening. And one mid-afternoon I saw it almost +circled by a misty rainbow, a sight never to be forgotten on earth or in +heaven by one whose soul considers a banquet of beauty more worth +shouting over than an invitation to feast with a King. + +But the last sight I caught of Fuji was the last night that I was in +Tokyo, as I rode up from the Ginza on New Year's eve out toward Aoyama +Gakuin, straight into a sunset, unsung, unseen by mortal eye. + +Before me loomed the great mountain like a monstrous mass of mighty +ebony carved by some delicate and yet gigantic artist's hand. + +I soon discovered where the artist got the ebony from which to carve +this pointed mountain of ebony with its flat top; for far above this +black silhouetted mountain was a mass of ebony clouds that seemed to +spread from the western horizon clear to the rim of the eastern horizon +and beyond into the unseen Sea of Japan in the back yard of the island. +It was from this mass of coal-black midnight-black clouds that the giant +artist carved his ebony Fuji that night. + +But not all was black. Perhaps the giant forged that mountain rather +than carved it, for there was a blazing furnace behind Fuji. And this +furnace was belching fire. It was not crimson. It was not gold. It was +not red. It was fire. + +It was furnace fire. It was a Pittsburgh blast-furnace ten thousand +times as big as all of Pittsburgh itself, belching fire and flames of +sparks. These sparks were flung against the evening skies. Some folks, I +fancy, on that memorable night called them stars; but I know better. +They were giant sparks flung from that blast-furnace which was booming +and roaring behind Fuji. I could not hear it roar; that is true; but I +could feel it roar. I could not hear it because even so great a sound as +that furnace must have been making will not travel sixty miles, even +though it was as still up there in the old theological tower as a +country cemetery by winter down in Rhode Island when the snow covers the +graves. + +Then suddenly a flare of fire shot up directly behind the cone of Fuji, +flaming into the coal-bank of clouds above the mountain, as if the old +shaggy seer had forgotten his age and was dreaming of youth again when +the earth was young and he was a volcano. + +Above that streak of fire and mingled with it, black smoke seemed to +pour until it formed a flat cloud of black smoke directly above the +cone, and spread out like a fan across the sky to give the giant artist +further ebony to shape his mountain monument. + +Then Fuji suddenly belched its volcano of color and lava; of rose and +gold, amber, salmon, primrose, sapphire, marigold; and in a stream these +poured over Fuji's sides and down along the ridge-line of the lesser +hills until they too were covered with a layer of molten glory a mile +thick. + +The clouds above Fuji forgot to be black. In fact, their mood of +sullenness departed as by magic, and a smile swept over their massive +mood of moroseness, and glory swept the skies. It was as if that furnace +behind Fuji had suddenly burst, throwing its molten fire over the hills, +the mountains, the sky, the world. + +And "mine eyes" had "seen the glory of the coming of the Lord." And that +was enough for any man for one lifetime. + + * * * * * + +Then there is beautiful Boroboedoer down in Java. It is a Physical +Flash-Light that looms with its huge and mysterious historical +architectural beauty like some remnant of the age when the gods of +Greece roamed the earth. A sunrise from its pinnacled height I have +already described, but the temple itself is unforgettable. There is +nothing like it on the earth. + +Boroboedoer is one of the wonders of the world, although little known. +It is in the general shape of the pyramid of Egypt, but more beautiful. +One writer says, "Boroboedoer represents more human labor and artistic +skill than the great pyramids." Mr. Alfred Russel Wallace says: "The +human labor and skill expended on Boroboedoer is so great that the labor +expended on the great pyramid sinks into significance beside it." + +Boroboedoer was built in the seventh century A.D., by the Javanese under +Hindu culture. Then came the Mohammedan invasion, destroying all such +works of art in its pathway. + +It is said that the priests so loved this beautiful Buddha temple that +they covered it over with earth and then planted trees and tropical +vegetation on it. In six months it was so overgrown that it looked like +a hill. This is one explanation of why it lay for a thousand years +unknown. + +The volcanic ashes undoubtedly helped in this secretion, for old Merapi +even now belches its ashes, rocks and dust out over the beautiful valley +down upon which Merapi looks. + +From Djodjakarta you go to the temples. + +This great temple has, instead of the plain surfaces of the great +pyramid, one mile of beautifully carved decorations, with 2141 separate +panels depicting the life of Buddha from the time he descended from the +skies until he arrived at Nirvana, or perfect isolation from the world. +A history of more than a thousand years is told in its stone tablets by +the sculptor's chisel, told beautifully, told enduringly, told +magnificently. + +One writer says: "This temple is the work of a master-builder whose +illuminated brain conceived the idea of this temple wherein he writes in +sculpture the history of a religion." + +And again one says architecturally speaking of it: + +"It is a polygonous pyramid of dark trachyte, with gray cupulas on +jutting walls and projecting cornices, a forest of pinnacles." + +There are four ledges to this hill temple and above each ledge or stone +path are rows of Buddhas hidden in great 5-foot stone bells, and at the +top crowning the temple a great 50-foot bell in which Buddha is +completely hidden from the world, symbol of the desired Nirvana that all +Buddhists seek. + +Mysterious with weird echoes of a past age it stands, silhouetted +against a flaming sky to-night as I see it for the first time. It is +late evening and all day long we have been climbing the ancient ruins of +that magnificent age of Hindu culture on the island of Java. This temple +of Boroboedoer was to be the climax of the day, and surely it is all of +that. + +The fire dies out of the sky. The seven terraces of the stone temple +begin to blur into one great and beautiful pyramid. Only the innumerable +stone bells stand out against the starlit night; stone bells with the +little peepholes in them, through which the stolid countenances and the +stone eyes of many Buddhas, in calm repose, look out upon the four +points of the compass. + +Night has fallen. We have seen the great Temple by crimson sunset and +now we shall see it by night. + +The shadows seem to wrap its two thousand exquisite carvings, and its +Bells of Buddha in loving and warm tropical embrace. But no warmer, is +the embrace of the shadows about the Temple than the naked embrace of a +score of Javanese boys who hold to their hearts naked Javanese beauties +who sit along the terraces looking into the skies of night utterly +oblivious to the passing of time or of the presence of curious American +strangers. + +Love is such a natural thing to these Javanese equatorial brown brawn +and beauties that unabashed they lie, on Buddha's silent bells, breast +to breast, cheek to cheek, and limb to limb; as if they have swooned +away in the warmth of the tropical night. + +The Southern Cross looks down upon lover and tourist as we all +foregather on the topmost terrace of that gigantic shadow-pyramid of +granite. + +The sound of the innumerable naked footsteps of all past ages seems to +patter along the stone terraces. Now and then the twang of the Javanese +angklong and the beautiful notes of a flute sweep sweetly into the +shadowed air. + +Then comes the dancing of a half dozen Javanese dancing girls, naked to +the waist, their crimson and yellow sarongs flying in the winds of +night, as, in slow, graceful movements, facing one of the Bells of +Buddha they pay their vows and offer their bodies and their souls to +Buddha; and evidently, also to the Javanese youths who accompany them in +their dances. + +The sound of the voices of these Javanese girls--who in the shadows look +for all the world like figures that Rodin might have dreamed--mingling +their laughter with the weird music; shall linger long in one's memory +of beautiful things. + +Their very nakedness seemed to fit in with the spirit of the night; a +spirit of complete abandonment to beauty and worship. In their attitudes +there seemed to be a mingling of religion and earthly passion; but it +was so touched with reverence that we felt no shock to our American +sensibilities. + +All night long we wandered about the terraces of the old Temple. + +We wondered how long the Javanese girls would remain. + +At dawn when we arose to see Boroboedoer by daylight they were still +there as fresh as the dawn itself in their brown beauty, the dew of +night glistening in their black hair and wetting their full breasts. + +And across, from Boroboedoer the sun, in its dawning splendor, was +transforming belching and rumbling old volcanic Merapi into a cone of +gold. + +[Illustration: LOOKING OVER THE WALLED CITY OF MANILA, AMERICAN SOLDIERS +SCALED THIS WALL A FEW YEARS AGO TO STAY.] + +[Illustration: BEAUTIFUL FILIPINO GIRLS ALL OF WHOM SPEAK ENGLISH.] + +[Illustration: KOREAN GIRLS WITH AMERICAN IDEALS AND TRAINING.] + +[Illustration: STEPPING ASIDE IN KOREA TO LET THE AMERICAN DEVIL WAGON +GO BY.] + + + + +CHAPTER III + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAITH + + +He was an old man; gray-haired, gray-bearded; gray-gowned; and he knew +that the Japanese Gendarmes would just as soon take his life as light a +cigarette. They do each with inhumane impunity. One means as much to +them as the other. + +He was under arrest for conspiracy in the Independence Movement. + +"Do you know about the Independence Movement?" he was asked. + +"Yes, I know all about it," was his fearless reply; though he knew that +that reply in itself might mean his death; even without trial or further +evidence. Just the fact that he had admitted that he knew anything at +all about the movement was enough to throw him into prison. He was like +an old Prophet in his demeanor. Something about the very dignity and +sublime Faith of the man awed the souls of these crude barbarians from +the Island Empire. + +"Since when was it begun?" asked the Gendarmes. + +"Since ten years ago when you Japanese first came to Korea," was the +dignified reply. + +"From whence did it spring?" he was asked next. + +"From the hearts of twenty million people!" + +"Did twenty millions of people all get together then, and plan?" + +"Not together in body but in spirit!" + +"But there must have been some men to start it?" the Japanese Gendarme +said. + +"They all started it!" was the old man's reply. + +"Is there no one who had charge of this movement from the beginning?" + +"Yes, there is one!" + +"Do you know him?" + +"I know him well!" + +"What is his name?" + +"His name is God!" said this seventy-year old, fearless Christian Korean +Patriot. + +Such faith as I have indicated in the paragraphs above is a common thing +in Korea. Never in the history of the world have Christian people been +subjected to the same tortures, the same cruelties, the same terrors, +for their Faith as the early Christian martyrs; save these; the Koreans. + +We had thought that the world had gotten past that day when men would be +tortured, crushed, persecuted, and killed because they were Christians +but that day is not yet past as almost any American Missionary in Korea +will testify. + +The Japanese officials will say that there is no persecution because of +Christianity; but missionaries in Korea know better. They will point to +countless incidents when men, women and children have been hounded, and +persecuted for no other reason than that they were Christians. + +"And when Jesus heard it, He marveled greatly and said to them that +followed, Verily I say unto you I have not found so great faith, no, not +in Israel!" might well be said of the Korean Christians every hour, +every minute, every second. They know what it means to die for their +Faith. + +The story of Pak Suk Han is one of the most thrilling illustrations of +Faith that I have ever heard in Oriental lands. He had been a Christian +since he was seven years of age. He was a brilliant speaker and the +Assistant Pastor of the First Methodist Church at Pyeng Yang, where, +even the non-Christians loved him. He was arrested on Independence Day +and sent to prison where a barbarous Japanese officer, whom the natives +called "The Brute" kicked him in the side because he would not give up +his Christ. From that kick and further inhuman treatment running over a +period of six months; a disease developed which a most reliable +missionary doctor told me ended Pak Suk Han's life. + +When he knew that he was about to die he said, "I have been a Christian +and have served the church since I was seven years old. I have given my +life to Christ, all but the last six months in prison which I have given +to my country. I have no regrets. I might have lived had I been willing +to deny my nation's rights and give up my Christ. I am going home to my +Father's house. Good-by!" No Christian martyrs in the early centuries of +the persecutions by Rome ever died with greater glory in their souls; or +with deeper Faith! + + * * * * * + +The temperature was zero. + +The cold had swept down over night from the Siberian and Manchurian +plains across the city of Seoul. The capital city of Korea was shivering +with cold. But it was vibrant with something else. It was vibrant with a +great sense of something impending. + +There were those who said that the restlessness in the souls of the +Koreans had died down with the terrible days of the March Independence +Movement; but I knew that the faith of the people was deeper than that. +I knew that the flame of faith was just smouldering. + +I sensed this from the conversation of old-time missionaries who had +been in Korea from the very beginning. I sensed it in the conversation +of young Koreans who had graduated from American schools. It was there; +a vibrant, living, pulsing, faith in God and in the justice of their +hopes: the Independence of Korea. + +The whole thing was summed up for me in a flash. It was a flash of the +light of a tremendous faith that blinded mine eyes for a day; but my +soul it lighted as with a great eternal light. + +A Korean boy stepped into the home of a missionary friend of mine, whose +name I dare not use. If I did he would likely be sent home by the +Japanese. Men have been sent home for less. + +The snow crunched under his feet as he walked up across the yard and the +porch. He knocked at the door. + +"Come in," said the missionary, kindly. + +The boy stepped in. The missionary had never seen him before. The boy +was moved deeply as with a great emotion. He seemed to have carried into +that quiet missionary home with him some of the tenseness of the outside +air and some of the tenseness of the political situation. + +"What do you want?" asked the missionary. + +"I want to talk with you about something very important," he replied in +Korean. + +"All right! Go ahead! Do not be afraid. I am your friend!" + +"So I know. All missionaries are our friends." + +"Then you need not be afraid to talk." + +"No!" said the boy. But he did not talk. His agitation was growing more +marked. + +"Go on, my boy! Tell me what you came for." + +The Korean boy looked at the half open door which led into the kitchen. +The missionary, without a word, stepped over and closed that door, +because he understood. + +The boy himself closed a door which led into the missionary's study. For +in Korea in these days no home; not even a missionary's home, is free +from spies. + +The boy started to talk hurriedly. The missionary soon saw that he was +not talking about the thing that he had come for. + +"Come to the point! Come to the point! You did not come to me, in such +secrecy, to talk commonplace things like that!" said the missionary a +bit sharply. + +Then the boy suddenly dropped to his knees behind the missionary's desk +and whipped out a big knife. Then he took from his white gown a long +piece of white cloth. This he laid out on the floor. Then he opened his +sharp knife with a quick motion and before the missionary knew it, he +had ripped the index finger of his right hand, from, the tip to the +palm, clear to the bone, until the blood spurted all over the floor. + +"What are you doing, my boy?" cried the missionary. + +The boy smiled a sublime smile and then knelt on his knees over the +white cloth and before the missionary's tear-misty eyes wrote across the +immaculate cloth in his own blood the words: "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei! +Korean Independence Forever! Self-determination!" + +Then underneath these words in a few swift strokes in his own blood he +drew a picture of the Korean flag. And as he drew, now and then the +blood would not flow fast enough; and he took his knife, as one primes a +fountain pen; and cut a bit deeper to open new veins in order that the +flag of his country and the declaration of his faith might be written in +the deepest colors that his own veins could furnish. + +Finally, after what seemed hours he jumped to his feet and handed the +missionary that flag; crying as he did so: "That is our faith! That is +the way we Koreans feel! You are going back to America! We want America +to know that our faith in the Independence of Korea has not died! The +fire burns higher to-day than ever. The Japanese cruelties are worse! +The need is greater! The oppression is more terrible! Our determination +is deeper than ever before! I have come here this day, knowing that you +are going back to America; I came to write these words in my own blood +that you may know; and that America may know; that our faith is a flame +which burns out like the beacon lights on the Korean hills, never to +die!" + + * * * * * + +The most scintillating Flash-light of Faith that I saw in the Orient was +in the Philippine Islands. We were traveling the jungle trail to visit a +tribe of naked Negritos. These are diminutive people who look like +American negroes only they are much smaller; much more underfed, and who +live in trees very much like the Orangutans of Borneo. They eat roots +and nuts. They hunt with bows and arrows. + +They are the lowest tribe in mentality on the Islands. + +It was a terribly hot, tropical day and I had a sunstroke on the way up +the mountainside to this Negrito village. + +I did not expect to get back alive. + +For three solid hours under a killing tropical sun, without the proper +cork helmet and protection, a pile driver kept hammering down on my +head. I felt it at every step I took. Finally I dropped unconscious on +the trail. After several hours I was able to proceed to the top of the +mountain, where the Negritos were camped. + +We got there about two o'clock and had lunch. As we ate about fifty +Negritos swarmed about us. + +They were a horrible looking crowd; stark naked, filthy with dirt; +starved to skin and bones; and animal-like in every look and move. + +I was so sick that I was not able to eat the lunch which had been +provided in baskets. I lay on my back trying to get back my strength. + +As the rest of the expedition ate, the Negritos with hungry eyes, +crowded closer. + +One hideous old man was in the forefront of the natives. He was so +hideous looking that he was sickeningly repulsive to me as I looked at +him crouched as he was like an animal with a streak of sunlight playing +on his face. + +This streak of sunlight, with ruthless severity, made the ugly scabs of +dirt stand out on his old wrinkled face. That face had not felt the +touch of water in years. His whole body was covered with dirt and sores. +Wherever the sunlight struck on that black body it revealed scales like +those on a mangy dog. His body was also covered with gray hairs matted +into the dirt. + +"That old codger represents the nearest thing to an animal that the +human being can reach," said McLaughlin, one of the oldest missionaries +on the island. + +"You're right!" I said. "He looks as much like a Borneo Orangutan as any +human being I ever saw." + +"And he lives like one, too; up in a tree in a nest of matted limbs and +grass," said another. + +"I've traveled among the wild tribes of the world all my life and I have +seen the lowest human beings on earth; in Africa, South America, +Malaysia, Borneo, Java--Australia--everywhere," said a widely traveled +man in the crowd, "and I never saw a type as low in the scale as that +old fellow!" + +So we discussed him as the lunch proceeded. He did not know, of course, +that we had consigned him to the lowest rung on the ladder of humanity, +so he just sat looking at us with his animal-like eyes as we ate; and at +me as I lay under a tree trying to recover my strength for the trip +back. + +"He is not a human being!" added a philosopher in the crowd. "He is +lower than that stage. He doesn't seem to have a single spark of +humanity left in him!" + +Then the meal over; the missionaries started to hand out what was left +of the food to these starving Negritos. The old man whom we had decided +was the lowest type of a human being on earth seemed, after all, to be +the leader of the tribe; no doubt because of his age; perhaps because of +something else which we were later to discover. + +McLaughlin handed out a sandwich to the old man. + +"Did he eat it himself?" + +"He did not! He handed it to a child near by." + +McLaughlin handed out another sandwich which was left. + +"Did the old man, whom we had decided was more of an animal than a human +being, eat that one?" + +"He did not. He took it over behind a tree where another old man was +timidly hiding and gave it to him." + +McLaughlin handed out another sandwich. + +"Did the old man eat that one?" + +"He did not. He took it over and gave it to an old woman near by." + +And so it continued, until every last piece of food was disposed of. +That old man; whom we had decided was an animal; saw to it, that every +man, woman, and child in that crowd was fed before he took a single bite +himself. + +Then he suddenly disappeared. In half an hour he came back with an +armful of great, broad, palm leaves. He spread these out on the ground +in the shade of a tree; did this old man; this hideous looking monster; +and then motioned for me to lie down on the bed he had made for me. He +saw that I was sick. + +Then he disappeared once again, and when he returned he was carrying a +long Bamboo-tube full of clear, cool water which he had gotten from a +mountain spring. He brought it to where I was lying on the bed he had +made for me and with this water he cooled my fevered, burning head; and +from this water he gave me to drink; he whom we had decided was the +lowest type of a human being on earth. + +And I am writing here to say; that I have never seen a "cup of cold +water given in His name" that was given with a higher, or a deeper sense +of the Divine spark of God in humanity than I saw that tropical summer +afternoon, and this water was given by the naked Negrito whom we had +decided was the lowest human being on the earth. Yet even in this +animal-man; even in this naked savage; there was a spark of the Divine +that made us forever have a deeper and a more abiding faith that God +never did and never shall make a man to live on this old earth that He +did not have some purpose in making him. + +A few days before I took this trip up into the jungles of Luzon to visit +this Negrito tribe I had received a copy of a slender volume of poems by +Edna St. Vincent Millay. In the cool beauty of the tropical evening +preceding this trip I had read the last lines of its introductory poem +called "Interim"; and these lines came flashing into my mind, even as I +lay on the hot earth on that Luzon hillside. I can still remember the +honey dripping like rain from the Cocoanut trees, and I can still hear +the ceaseless and maddening cry of millions of Locusts that hot day; but +suddenly came this beautiful outpouring of faith from, the cool depths +of a woman's woodland soul: + + "Not Truth but Faith, it is + That keeps the world alive! If, all at once + Faith were to slacken,--that unconscious faith + Which must, I know, yet be the corner-stone + Of all believing--birds now flying fearless + Across would drop in terror to the earth; + Fishes would drown; and the all-governing reins + Would tangle in the frantic hands of God + And the worlds gallop headlong to destruction!" + +That day bred new faith into my soul! + +I have told this story of the naked Negrito a hundred times since that +eventful day and it kindles new flames of faith in human hearts every +time it is repeated! Mr. Edmund Vance Cooke, the poet, heard it in +Cleveland where I spoke in a Chautauqua programme and he said to me +several months later in my home at Detroit, Michigan, "That was the most +thrilling story of the Divine spark in a savage soul that I have ever +heard! It gave me new faith in God and in humanity!" + +These, and a thousand other Flashlights of Faith come flashing out of +that Far Eastern background; the sublime faith of thousands of college +men and women who are giving their lives because they believe that +savages and barbarians, such as I have described in this Negrito; Do +have that spark of the Divine in their souls; faith that Christian +civilization, and Christian education; and a Christian God, may awaken +that spark. + +And, indeed many a proof do they have of this miracle! Only the other +day from an American School, a girl from darkest Africa graduated as a +Phi Beta Kappa honor scholar. Bishop William A. Taylor picked up this +girl as a naked child in the jungles of Africa less than a quarter of a +century ago! + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FEAR + + +Quick, short, sharp signals shot down the speaking tube from the bridge. + +The Chief Engineer of the _Santa Cruz_ yelled across the boiler room. + +The bell rang for reverse and the entire ship shivered. + +A woman on deck screamed, and there was a rush to the railings, for the +old boat had been slowly making its way up the winding, treacherous +Saigon River out of the China Sea into French Indo-China. + +"Those damned Chinks again, trying to escape the Devil!" + +"What's the matter, Pop?" some one asked the captain. + +"That sampan full of Chinks was trying to get away from the River Devil, +so they shot across our bow to fool him and we nearly ran them down." + +"Do they often indulge in that little friendly game with the Devil?" I +asked him, smiling at his seriousness. + +"Every time we enter one of these rivers they do it. I killed six of +them going up the river at Shanghai a year ago. It gives me the creeps +every time I see them shoot across our bow. A ship like this will cut +'em in two like a knife!" + +We looked over the green railing of the _Santa Cruz_. The big ship had +almost come to a stop for the engines were still in reverse and the +shallow river mud was churned up until the otherwise clear water looked +like a muddy pond. The little sampan, full of grinning, naked Chinese +coolies was fifty feet away from us, and our American sailors were +swearing at them in every language they knew and shaking big, brawny, +brown fists in their grinning direction. + +It was considered a joke by the passengers but it was a very real thing +to these poor ignorant Chinese. One sees this happen everywhere in the +Orient. For the Chinaman starts out every morning in his sampan with the +worst kind of a River Devil after him. He must rid himself of that +Devil. So, when a big ship comes into sight, he waits until its bow is +very close and then darts in front of its pathway. The idea is, that +when a sampan full of Chinamen shoots in front of a big ship the Devil +is supposed to follow the ship all that day, and let the Chinese junk or +sampan alone. + +[Illustration: CONFUCIUS' TOMB AT CHUFU, CHINA.] + +[Illustration: RUIN OF THE MING TOMBS. + +The turtle, the symbol of long life, is almost as common in China as the +dragon.] + +[Illustration: GRINDING RICE IN CHINA.] + +[Illustration: A CAMEL TRAIN FROM THE PLAINS OF MONGOLIA ENTERS PEKING +ON A WINTER'S DAY.] + +It is the pest of an American seaman's life, for even a seaman hates to +see a human being drowned. + +To an American mind this seems ridiculous. It even seems humorous. I +shall never forget how the passengers laughed when the captain told them +why he had had to reverse his engines to keep from crushing the frail +Chinese sampan. But suddenly the thought came to one of the passengers; +that to the poor Chinaman the fear which made him do that foolish thing +and the fear which made him take that awful risk was very real. + +"Under God, the poor Devils must have an awful life if they have such a +fear as that in their souls day and night!" said an Englishman. + +"They never start out for a day's work that they are not haunted every +minute of that day by a thousand devils, ill-omens, and bad spirits +which are constantly hovering about to leap on them and kill them!" said +a missionary. "The whole Orient is full of the thought of fear!" + +This missionary was right. Paul Hutchinson, Editor of the _Chinese +Christian Advocate_ and one of the real literary men of the Americans +who are permanent residents of Shanghai, told me of a Chinese boy who +was graduating from a Christian College in Nanking. The boy had been for +four years under the influence of Americans. He could speak good +English. He was about ready to go to America to school when he had +completed his work at Nanking. + +He, with a younger brother, was at home for the Christmas vacation. On +the way back to college the younger brother fell overboard into the +river. The older brother was not a coward. Everybody will testify to +that. In fact he was unusually courageous. But in spite of the fact that +his puny brother was able to swim to the side of the small boat, and in +spite of the fact that he begged his older and stronger brother to pull +him back into the boat, that older brother refused to do so. + +"Why?" + +Mr. Hutchinson says that the English teacher heard the tale in terror, +but that the brother took it as a matter of course, explaining that the +River Devil would most certainly have caught and dragged into the water, +any person who should have dared to attempt a rescue of his brother. + +It is an established thing in China; that if a native falls into the +river, he never gets out unless he pulls himself out. Nobody will help +him, for if they do, that will incur the wrath of the River God and the +rescuer also will be dragged down to his death. + +It is assumed that if a person falls into the river that is the River +God pulling him in. + +The constant fear of this River God is so deeply intrenched in these +poor souls that they take no pleasure on the water and they carry their +sense of fear to such an extent that they will not even attempt a rescue +of their own babies or loved ones if these happen to fall into the +water. + +Mr. Hutchinson calls attention to Dr. E. D. Soper's book "The Faiths of +Mankind" in which there is an entire chapter called "Where Fear Holds +Sway." + +"Where is it that fear holds sway?" the reader asks. + +The answer is, "In the Orient"! + +Yes, the whole Orient is one great gallery of dim, uncertain, weird, +mysterious Flash-lights of Fear. + +Paul Hutchinson says: + + "It is impossible for the Westerner to conceive such an + atmosphere until he has lived in it. In fact he may live in it + for years and never realize the hold which it has upon his + native neighbors. But it is no exaggeration to say that, to the + average Chinese, the air is peopled with countless spirits, + most of them malignant, all attempting to do him harm. Even a + catalogue of the devils, such as have been named by the + scholarly Jesuit, Father Dore, is too long for the limits of + this article. But there they are, millions of them. They hover + around every motion of every waking hour, and they enter the + sanctity of sleep. An intricate system of circumnavigating + them, that makes the streets twist in a fashion to daze + Boston's legendary cow and puts walls in front of doors to + belie the hospitality within, runs through the social order." + +This fear is even expressed in Chinese architecture. + +"Why is that strange wall built in front of every household door and +even before the Temples?" I asked a friend in China. + +"It is put there to fool the devils. They will see that wall and think +that there is no door and then will go away and not bother that house +any more," I was told. + +The very architecture of the Chinese home is to keep the devils out. The +strange curves with the graceful upward sweep that makes the roofs so +beautiful to American eyes is for the purpose of throwing devils of the +air off the track. They will come down from the skies and start down the +curve of the roofs but will be turned back into the skies again by the +upward slant of the twisted roofs. + +It was this same terrible sense of fear which developed the old surgical +system that the Koreans and Chinese used before the arrival of the +missionaries. + +"Do you see these needles?" an American surgeon in Korea asked me one +day, as he pointed to about a hundred of the most horrible looking +copper and brass needles lying on a stand. + +"Yes," I admitted, mystified. + +"I have taken every one of them out of the bodies of human beings on +whom I have operated here in the hospital." + +"Where did you find them?" + +"In between the bowels, in the muscles, in the organs of the body, and +one in the heart of a man who came to me because he couldn't breathe +very well." + +"No wonder the fellow couldn't breathe. I don't think I could myself if +I had a needle in my blood-pump!" I said with a smile. + +"These fancy needles that the old Korean doctors thought a good deal of +they put a handle on," he continued. + +"What was that for?" + +"So they wouldn't lose their needles in a body. The other, or common +needles, they just stuck into the body wherever the wound or sore place +was and left them there." + +"And what, may I ask, was the idea of this playful Korean surgery! Was +it something like our 'button, button, whose got the button?'" + +"No, the idea was that there were devils in the wound. If it was a +swelling there was a devil in that swelling. If it was typhoid fever, +and there was pain in the bowels, there was a devil in the inward parts +affected, and so, after carefully sterilizing the needle by running it +through his long, black, greasy hair, the native doctor would run it +into the affected part of the body to kill the devil or let it escape +from the body." + +"The old idea of a fear religion, a fear social life, a fear family life +and a fear surgery prevails in Korea as it does in China?" I said by way +of a question. + +"It prevails everywhere in the Orient. To me it is the most awful thing +about working out here. The awful sense of constant fear that is on the +people always and everywhere." + +Pounded-up claws of a tiger; the red horn of a deer; pulverized fish +bones; roots of trees, pigs' eyes; and a thousand poisons and +fear-remedies make up the medical history of the Oriental doctor. + +"Why do they kill girl babies?" + +"Fear!" + +"Fear of what?" + +"Fear of devils! The devils will be displeased if a girl baby is born. +Therefore kill the baby. + +"Throw the babies out on the ground in the graveyards. Let the dogs eat +the babies." + +I heard the dogs howling in a cemetery one night about two o'clock in +the morning as I was coming through the thousands of little conical +mounds, with here and there an unburied coffin. + +"The dogs are having a baby feast to-night," said an old missionary. + +"Why?" + +"To appease the devils." + +"My God man; you don't mean that they let the dogs eat their babies +because they are afraid of the devil?" I cried. + +"I mean just that," replied the missionary. + +"Fear! Fear! Fear! Everywhere. Fear by night and fear by day. They never +escape it. It is fear that makes them worship their ancestors. It is +fear that makes them worship idols. It is fear that makes them kill +their girl babies. It is fear that makes them build their little narrow +winding streets, which after a while must become so filthy; fear that if +they do not, the devils will find them; and if they do build their +streets narrow and winding the devils will get lost searching for them. +Oh, God, fear, fear, everywhere! The Orient is full of a terrible and a +constant fear!" + +I looked at my friend astonished. He seldom went into such emotional +outbursts. He was judicial, calm, poised; some said, cold. But this +constant sense of fear that was upon the people had finally broken down +his reserve of poise. + +"The chimneys are beautiful. See that beautiful upward dip in the +architecture. They are like the roofs," I said. + +"But that beautiful, symmetrical development did not come out of a sense +of beauty. It came to fool the devils just as we have said of the roofs. +The devils will glide off into space and will never be able to get down +the chimneys." It is so in other Oriental countries. + + * * * * * + +The same is true in the Philippine Islands. The whole fabric of human +life is permeated with the black thread of fear. + +It is true of China and Korea; it is true of Borneo to a marked degree; +and it is true of that great mass of conglomerate humanity that we think +of as India. + +These and other flash-lights of fear remain, and shall remain forever in +my mind. But of a fifty thousand mile trip among hundreds of millions of +human beings; pictures of fear stand out, blurred here and there; but +clear enough in outline so that I can still see the human faces against +a background of midnight darkness. + +Three pictures are clearer than the others. Perhaps it was because the +flash that focused them on the plate of my mind was stronger. Perhaps it +was, that the plate of my soul was more sensitive the days these +impressions were focused. But they stand out; three flash-lights of fear +above all: + +One was told me by Zela Wiltsie Worley, a college girl, now a +missionary's wife, who has known what it means to lie on the floor of +her home an entire morning with machine gun bullets crashing through +her home, between the fire of two revolutionary armies. + +"I was talking with my Amah--she is the girl who cares for our +children," said Mrs. Worley. + +I nodded that I understood that. + +"We were bathing the baby--our first wee kiddie--and the Amah seemed to +have an unusual inclination to talk. I had been joking with her and +asked her if she did not want to buy Clara Gene. In fun we started the +characteristic Chinese haggling over price, she trying to 'jew' me up +and I trying to 'jew' her down. + +"'Oh!' she said, 'girl babies are very expensive the last two or three +years. Now you have to pay over ten dollars to get a nice fat one! +Before that, if you did not drown them, you had an awfully hard time to +get rid of them. There was a man in our town to whom we took the +babies--the girl babies I mean. He would go up and down the streets with +them and sell them to any one who would give him a chicken and a bowl of +rice in return.' + +"'But do they drown the girl babies now?' I asked the Amah. + +"'Oh, yes, of course, if you already have one or two boys. You know, in +my village I am the only Christian. My own family and the rest of the +village worship idols. They are afraid of their gods. They do not know +any better. Why my sister almost drowned my second little boy by +mistake. He had just arrived and she thought that he was a girl, and had +already stuck his head down in a pail of water when I rescued him.' + +"'But who usually kills the girl babies?' I asked. 'Surely not the +mother?' + +"'Yes, she does. She is so afraid when she finds it is only a girl, +afraid that the gods will be angry because she has brought another girl +into the world, that she kills it!' + +"'Do they bury it then?' + +"'Sometimes they wrap it up, and throw it under a pile of rubbish. You +know, we do not have coffins made for any of our babies who die before +they have had their first teeth! I have seen so many babies drowned, +Mrs. Worley. I never did like it. They cry so!' + +"Then I inquired of our Chinese teacher's wife if she knew of girl baby +killing still going on in China. + +"'Just last week,' this teacher's wife said in answer to my inquiry, +'the woman next door went back to her village two miles from here and +she saw her own sister drown a baby while she was there.' + +"I asked an English missionary if she knew that this fearful custom was +still prevalent over most of China with its more than four hundred +million souls. + +"She told me that it was the custom in Ning-daik for the women just to +throw the girl babies under their beds, and they would 'be gone in a day +or two.' + +"And it is all because of their awful fear that the gods will be +displeased if they give birth to a girl baby!" + +The second outstanding flash-light of fear comes from Java. + +In the chapter on Physical Flash-lights I have described the old volcano +of Bromo. It is a terrible thing to look into. Great fissures in the +earth, belch thunder, sulphur, fire, and lava. Great rocks as large as +wagons shoot into the air to the rim of the two hundred-foot crater, and +then drop back with a crash. + +For centuries, and even in these days, clandestinely; I am told by men +whom I trust; the most beautiful maiden of a certain tribe among the +Javanese; and some of the most beautiful women I saw in the Orient were +those soft-skinned, soft-voiced, easy-moving, graceful-limbed, +swaying-bodied; brown skinned women of Java; she, the fairest of the +tribe is taken; and with her the strongest limbed youth; he of the +fibered muscles; he of the iron biceps; he of the clean skin; and the +two of them are tossed into the belching fiery crater of old Bromo. + +"Why?" I asked. + +"They think that in that way, they may propitiate the gods of the +volcano. Their hearts are constantly filled with fear lest the gods of +the volcano become angry and destroy them," said the missionary. + +Then he told me of a trip that they made a year before to the top of one +of the most inaccessible volcanoes which was then in constant eruption. + +"We had a hard time getting native guides. Finally we succeeded. We had +to travel fifty miles before we reached the mountain. Then we climbed +five miles up its steep side, cutting our own trail as we made our way +through the tropical jungle. At last we reached the timber. But before +we entered the forest one of the guides came to me and, with the most +pitiable and trembling fear in his voice and face, begged us white +people not to say anything disrespectful of the mountain; not to joke +and laugh, and not to sing; for that would make the mountain angry, and +we would all be killed. + +"I saw that he was in deadly earnest, and, while I wanted to laugh I +looked as solemn as I could, for there was such terror in his face, I +knew that if I laughed he would turn and run back to civilization. + +"An hour later we reached the timber line. Before we entered it the +first boy fell flat on his face and prayed to the god of the mountain +asking that god not to hurt them. Then the next boy did likewise; then +the third and the fourth and the fifth! + +"Their faces were almost white with fear when we missionaries did not +pray. It filled them with terror!" + + * * * * * + +And the last Flash-light of Fear is that of the baby in Medan. The +Priest lived across the way in a temple. + +The baby was sick with whooping-cough. It was the usual, simple case of +baby sickness that American babies all have, and which is not taken +seriously here by either doctor or mother. + +The mother took the baby to the priest. + +The priest took a red hot iron; laid the baby on the church altar and +ran the iron across its neck, and then across its breast and then across +its little stomach. Then he laid it on the front steps of the temple. + +The baby died after a few hours spent in terrible pain. + +Hate the Priest? + +No! + +Despise the mother? + +No! + +Pity them! + +The priest was honest and the mother was honest. They were doing the +best thing for the baby that either of them knew. They knew that the +baby had a devil in its little body and they were merely trying to drive +that devil out of its body. + +Fear! Fear! Fear! Fear of devils in the home, lurking in the shadows of +night and in the light of day; lurking in the bodies of babies; devils +everywhere--always. + +These are the Flash-lights of Fear! + +And like unto them are the pictures of Frightfulness which I have set +down in the next chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIGHTFULNESS + + +"The Jap is the slant-eyed Hun of the Orient. He has a slant-eyed +ethics, a slant-eyed morality, a slant-eyed honesty, a slant-eyed social +consciousness; a slant-eyed ambition, a slant-eyed military system; and +a slant-eyed mind!" said Peter Clarke Macfarlane, the well-known author +and lecturer, one day when I was interviewing him on the Japanese +question. + +"That's pretty strong, Mr. Macfarlane, in the light of your usual +conservatism," I commented. + +"I say it carefully and after much thought. It is said to stay said so +far, as I am concerned," he added with finality. + +This was also my own opinion, after spending three months in Japan and +Korea, another month in China; and another month or two in Manila; +catching the angle of Japanese leadership from every slant. + +And after due consideration, and after a year to think it over +carefully, I am here to say, that I never saw, or heard of anything +worse happening in Belgium under German rule than that which I saw and +heard of happening under Japanese rule in Korea, Siberia and Formosa, +while I was in the Orient. + +Suffice it is to say, at this point, that the Japanese is hated by the +whole Orient. I do not believe that the German Hun in his worst day was +ever hated more unanimously for his inhuman practices than is the Jap +Hun hated by the whole Orient to-day. + +"Is it getting better or worse?" I am asked constantly. + +"Worse!" I reply, and this reply is backed up by interviews I have had +with returned Korean missionaries. + +I found the Japanese scorned and hated from one end of the Orient to the +other. As far south as Java, as far east as the Suez; as far north as +the uttermost reaches of Manchuria and Siberia; as far this direction as +Hawaii. + +For instance, after I had been away from Korea for six months and had +come back to America I met a most conservative missionary in the Romona +Hotel in San Francisco. The last time previous to that meeting that I +had seen him was in Korea itself. + +I said to him "Are things better or worse in Korea?" + +His reply was, "Worse than they have ever been; generally speaking!" I +have no intention and no desire to further augment ill feeling between +America and Japan. In fact I do not fear anything like war in that +direction; but I do have an intense feeling of responsibility about +telling my readers the plain and simple truth that the whole Far Eastern +world hates Japan. + +If that thought itself can get into the mind of America, this country +will understand, at least, that there is some fault that lies back in +the Japanese military policy and character itself. It hardly seems +possible, with ten races and five different countries hating Japan; that +Japan herself is not mostly to blame. When a matter of hatred is so +unanimous among all races in that part of the world, it is likely that +the fault lies with the race and nation which has the hatred of so many +types of people focused on its actions. + +While I was in Java some high dignitaries in the Japanese Navy arrived +in Batavia. The Chinese Coolies who live in Batavia absolutely refused +to carry any Japanese officers or sailors in their Rickshas. It was a +striking indictment of the Japanese nation. + +In Singapore the distrust and hatred of the Japanese is unanimous. In +the Philippines it is the same. In Hongkong you see few Japanese. They +are not wanted and they are not trusted. In Shanghai, and Peking it is +the same. The Student Movement, one of the most powerful weapons that +has ever arisen in any nation in the world, has focused the Chinese +sentiment against selfish Japanese aggression in China. + +The Japanese officials laughed at the Student Boycott of Japanese goods +when it first started. But in a year they were trembling in the face of +that boycott. I was in Tientsin, and Peking during the days of the +Student Street Demonstrations. They were like American demonstrations. + +Keen, alert, intelligent Chinese boys addressed the crowds admonishing +them not to buy Japanese goods in Chinese shops. The pressure became so +strong that all Chinese merchants from the lowest shopkeeper up to the +owner of the great chain stores, like our Woolworth institutions, put +away Japanese-made goods and refused to sell them. + +I took dinner in Shanghai with one of the foremost merchant princes of +China and said, "Are you selling any Japanese-made goods?" + +"I certainly am not. I am not powerful enough with all my millions of +money and all of my chain of stores to take such a chance as that. I +have put all of my Japanese goods in the cellar." + +The Boycott against Japanese goods in China became so powerful that in +Tientsin, while I was there, the Japanese Consul complained bitterly to +the Governor of the Province and the Governor who was said to be under +the influence of Japanese money, arrested a lot of students. There was +one of the most determined and terrible riots that I have ever seen. It +was war. It was not like any mild American riot. It was war to the +death. Several students were killed and finally the pressure was so +strong that even this Japanese Agent was compelled to release the +imprisoned students. I shall quote from an editorial that I was asked to +write for the Peking _Leader_ during my stay in China: + + The weapon which most worries the Japanese I should say, is the + boycott that the Students Movement has inaugurated. The + Japanese Government never had anything that quite worried it so + much. It is a weapon that is worth a thousand battleships, or + fifty divisions of soldiers. It is a weapon that will, if + continuously, and consistently and faithfully used, bring a + money-loving nation, like Japan to her knees, and send her + finally, scurrying like a whipped cur, with her tail between + her legs back home where she belongs. + +I talked with a ragged Chinese boy through an interpreter just to find +what his reactions to the Japanese were. He was a beggar. He said, "The +Japanese has a heart like a dog and a liver like a wolf." + +I quote again from the editorial in the Peking _Leader_: + + All day I have been on the streets of Peking listening to + groups of students discussing the all absorbing-question of + the Boycott. I have not understood the characters printed on + their banners, but I have understood the light in Young China's + eyes. I can understand that language and that light, for it is + the language and the light of freedom, justice, liberty! I am + an American. I understand that light when I see it; and I know + also; that it is a light that can never be snuffed out. It is a + light that prison walls cannot hide and that the brute hand of + the invader cannot dim. + +"And what are they protesting against?" is the question asked. + +Primarily against the Japanese control of Shantung. Secondarily, +against a type of civilization which Japan represents; a civilization +that uses the weapons of frightfulness to accomplish its ends; a +civilization that steals a nation like Korea, compelling the abdication +of a weak Emperor at the point of the bayonet; and then using the avowed +method of extermination to deplete a subjected nation. The whole Orient +knows Japan and knows the methods that Japan has used and is using in +conquered territory. It is a continuous and continual policy of +extermination, frightfulness, and assimilation. This is the underlying +cause of the hatred of the whole Orient and the Far and Near East +against Japan; and this is the fundamental reason for the Students' +Boycott of Japanese goods in China. + +One might devote an entire book to narrations of frightful cruelties +perpetrated by Japanese on Koreans, Siberians and Formosans; but that +would not be so strong as the setting forth of the underlying ethical +reasons for this universal hatred in which Japan is held. + +However it might be quite honest and fair for this writer to set down +here several acts of frightfulness that came under his own personal +observation merely as casual illustrations of that which is going on all +the time. + +One day I was walking with a missionary's wife through the streets of +Seoul. There was an excavation being made and a little railroad track +was being run along this excavation. A Korean boy had been set to guard +this track to keep folks from getting hurt when the dump car came down +its steep grade. He had been ordered by his Japanese employers to stop +all passage when the signal was given. + +We were walking along when this Korean stopped an ordinary Japanese +civilian. He was of the low-browed type; mentally deficient I should +say; but quite the average type that is used by Japan to settle these +conquered countries. + +The Korean held up his hands in warning. + +The Japanese stooped over, picked up a stone as large as a cabbage head +and, with only a space of two feet between himself and the Korean, +threw it with all his force against the cheek of the Korean and smashed +his jaw in, tearing his ear off, breaking his jaw bone, and lacerating +his face fearfully. It was one of the most inhuman things that I have +ever seen done. + +The missionary woman said to the Korean when the Jap ran; "Why do you +not report this to the Japanese police?" + +"It would do no good. They would give no justice to me, and I would be +hounded to my death for reporting it." + +One evening with a friend I had been speaking in Pyeng Yang. It was +midnight one Sunday and we were waiting for a train down to Seoul. As we +stood on the platform waiting; a north-bound train came in. It stopped. +As it stopped several Japanese train boys got off of the train. An old +white-haired Korean gentleman, about seventy-five years of age, stood on +the platform waiting for the train. He was intelligent looking; poised; +and well-dressed in the usual immaculately white robes. + +A fifteen-year old Japanese train boy, seeing him standing there, +deliberately ran out of his way, lowered his shoulders like a football +charger and ran squarely into the old man, knocking him down to the +platform and ran on with a laugh and some muttered Japanese words. + +The dignified Korean gentleman got up, brushed the dirt from his +clothes; did not even deign to glance at the offending boy; and walked +on as if nothing had happened. + +This scene illustrates two things: First, the superiority of the Korean +mind and character to that of the Japanese. This is one of the causes of +the extreme frightfulness pursued by the Japanese. They instinctively +feel the superiority of their captives. It is not the first time in +history that a lesser nation has conquered a superior people. + +This superiority in soul-stuff that the Korean has over that of the +Japanese is recognized immediately by all Europeans and Americans who +become, even in the least bit, familiar with the two peoples. The +sympathy of Christian civilizations is with the Koreans immediately. + +The other thing that this simple scene illustrates, is the spirit of +ruthless cruelty and frightfulness that is bred in the very soul of the +youth of Japan toward the Koreans. Even the train boys can do a thing +like that without fear of punishment. + +The first day that we were in Seoul, the capital city of Korea, Pat +McConnell and myself were walking down the main street of this +interesting city toward the depot. Parallel with us marched a squad of +Japanese soldiers. In front of them, going the same direction, was a +poor Korean workman pushing a small cart that looked like our American +wheelbarrow. + +The Japanese soldiers were in formation and marching in the middle of a +wide street. But deliberately; evidently with orders from their officer +in charge; they edged over to that side of the street where the Korean +was walking and pushed him into the curb stone, kicking his barrow as +they passed, although this meant a useless swerving of, at least, +fifteen feet out of their course to do so. It was a case of deliberate +brutality. + +"Korea is a land of trails and terraces," said a prominent missionary in +that fair spot to me one day as we were riding from Fusan to Seoul. + +"And terror," added another traveler from America. "It is a land of +trails, terraces, and terror!" + +One day a friend of mine was begging Baron Saito, the present +Governor-General of Korea, to stop the cruelties of the Japanese +gendarmes in villages in northern Korea. The Baron asked for the names +of those who had given the missionary his information about the +cruelties and he refused to give them. + +"Why should you not give them?" asked Baron Saito. + +"Because they would be killed for complaining," said the missionary. + +Then he told Governor-General Saito how he had once complained to the +police department when a father and son were cruelly beaten in prison. + +"Give me their names," said the gendarme. + +"I will if you will give me a promise that they will be protected." + +"No! I cannot do that! The gendarmes are very revengeful!" + +I know personally of a Korean preacher who has done no greater crime +than to attend a meeting at a dinner given for released Korean +prisoners. He was arrested and kept in jail for three days, just for +attending that dinner. + +Another preacher with whom I talked was suspected of collecting money +eight months after the March Independence Movement. When he heard that +the Japanese police were coming for him he fled. This angered the +police. They appeared the next morning at three o'clock at his home. +There were only the mother and a twelve-year-old daughter left. First +the gendarmes burst in the frail doors with the butts of their rifles, +and then from three o'clock in the morning until daylight, they beat and +tortured those two helpless Christian Korean women; kicking them all +over the house until they were unconscious. These two Korean women were +in bed for two weeks because of that night's experience and were not +able to walk for a much longer period than that. + +And these women were educated, cultured women. They had committed no +crime. It was simply because they did not know where the father was. + +Later the father and son were arrested. They were beaten cruelly in the +process of arrest although they offered no resistance. The son later +said to me, "I could stand it to be beaten myself and even to see my +father beaten but the unbearably cruel thing was to know that they had +beaten my innocent mother and sister when no man was there to protect +them." + +I cite this instance because it happened eight months after the +Independence Movement, and three months after the so-called reform +Government of Baron Saito had been in effect and after the Japanese +Press had said to the world that all cruelties had ceased. + +A case of frightfulness that was called to my attention; which seemed to +me to be the very essence of cruelty was that of the moral terrorizing +of an educated Korean Pastor, whom the police merely suspected of having +had something to do with the Independence Movement. They had no direct +evidence but submitted him to months of moral terrorizing which was the +worst I have ever heard of. + +For months at a stretch they would suddenly appear outside of his home +and thrust their bayonets through his doors. Then they would go away +without saying a word. He had absolutely no redress. If he had +complained, he would have been thrown into prison. + +One of the most reliable missionaries that I met in Korea told me of how +one morning the policemen came to a church in northern Korea during the +hour of service. They broke eighty windows, arrested fourteen men, +smashed the little organ with their gun butts, smashed a beautiful lamp, +tore up the mat seats from the floors, and burned them in front of the +church. + +At the funeral service of another young Korean preacher, Pak Suk Han in +Pyeng Yang, hundreds of Japanese soldiers appeared with drawn bayonets +just to terrorize the people. The church was full of Japanese officers +with drawn swords. + +"What would have happened if somebody in a fit of patriotism had shouted +'Mansei'?" I asked. + +"We would have been killed instantly!" said the missionary soberly. "I +was afraid of that!" + +A prominent, educated and English-speaking Korean official, told me that +in a conversation with a high Japanese official that that particular +Japanese had said "Our plan will be to assimilate the Korean people!" + +"But that will be impossible. There are twenty million of us. You will +find that a hard thing to do!" said this Korean. + +The Japanese official smiled and said significantly, "We know the way!" + +The Korean knew what that meant. It meant extermination; extermination +in every way possible. It meant extermination by introducing +prostitution in Korea. This has been done. Korea never had any legalized +prostitution. Korea never knew what the Red Light Section meant. Japan's +first move was to introduce that. She sent her diseased women to Korea. +She made prostitution ridiculously cheap; fifty sen; which is +twenty-five cents in American money. + +"Why?" + +It is one of her ways of assimilation which means extermination and she +has already shot venereal disease rates up to an alarming state in +Korea. + +Her next step in frightfulness was to introduce opium. Japanese Agents +raise thousands of acres of Opium in Korea and sell it. This is another +one of her steps in the process of assimilation or extermination. + +Japan has stolen from poor Koreans their rice lands and their coal beds. +The process is for a Japanese company to buy the water sources of the +rice paddies below and then refuse to let the Koreans have water for his +rice fields. This is another step in frightfulness that will finally +exterminate the Korean if it keeps up long enough. + +The recent massacre of Koreans in Manchuria by Japanese soldiers +illustrate the Japanese spirit. + +This same policy of frightfulness is carried on in Formosa and in +Siberia and wherever the Japanese army and gendarme system has +authority. It is worse than anything that the Germans ever did in France +or Belgium. It has its only parallel in the dark ages. + +I told Baron Saito, Governor-General of Korea this in an interview. He +wanted to know what America thought of Japan's rule in Korea. I said: +"America and the whole civilized world is stirred with indignation at +the Japanese rule in Korea. There has been nothing like it since the +dark ages." Then I read him a quotation from an editorial in _Zion's +Herald_, a church paper published in Boston with virtually those words +in it. + + * * * * * + +My friend, whom I met first in France, when he came back from. France +was sent to Siberia as a Captain in the American Army. + +I met him in Manila just after he had returned from Siberia. He, in +common with all Americans who had seen the Japanese methods of +frightfulness in Siberia, was filled with hatred. + +"One night," he said, "a company of Japanese soldiers entered the +little village six hundred miles north of Vladivostok where we were +located. They announced that they were hunting for Bolsheviks. + +"They did not find any in the little village, although they ruthlessly +broke down every door of every home in that village. Then they went out +to a sawmill about three miles from town and brought in five boys +between the ages of twelve and eighteen. + +"After torturing these boys in an old box car for two days, hanging them +up by the thumbs with their arms behind their backs until they were +unconscious; and then forcing salt water, hot water, cold water, and +water with pepper in it down their nostrils, alternately; and other +added cruelties; they announced to the village that they would release +them that night on the public square." + +"Did they do it?" I asked anxiously, for I was stirred to my soul's +depths with his narration of cruelties in Siberia. + +"Yes, they released them; in this way: + +"They called all the friends and families of the prisoners together on +the public square. Then they dug five graves. Then five Japanese +officers came stalking across the public square, whisking at the +thistle-tops with swords as they came; and then walked up to these +innocent Russian boys, and whacked off their heads. + +"Had they been tried?" I asked indignantly. + +"They had been given no trial. They were mere boys, who, probably, +didn't even know what the word Bolshevik meant. It was the worst +illustration of frightfulness that I ever saw, although it was a common +thing for the Japanese troops to go through the country upsetting the +barrels of honey that the poor peasants were saving up for the long +winters; rooting up their young potatoes; cutting the throats of their +colts and cattle, and ravishing the land." + +"How could you stand it?" + +"We couldn't stand it. I had to fight to keep my company of Americans +from sailing into them with fists and bayonets. It would have meant war. +So I sent word back to headquarters that we were out of provisions and +we were called back to Vladivostok." + +Can this scene be duplicated in Formosa and Korea, where the Japanese +hold sway? + +It can. + +During the Independence Movement in Korea this thing happened: All of +the Korean Christians had been asked to assemble in a church for a +meeting. When they were all in the church, the Japanese gendarme set +fire to the church and then fired into it, killing every man. + +A woman, big with child, came running toward the church having heard the +shooting and knowing that her husband was within. + +A big, burly Japanese pushed her back. + +"What do you want?" he cried in Korean. + +"I want to go in there. My husband is there," she cried in terror. + +"But you will be killed if you go in there!" + +"I don't care! I want to die if he is to die!" + +"All right! You shall have your wish!" said the Japanese, and pulling +out his sword, cut off her head, killing her instantly. She fell at his +feet with her unborn child; and he laughed aloud at the spectacle. + +This is Japanese frightfulness and it can be duplicated by many +missionaries in Korea if they dared to speak. + +But the minute they speak and tell the truth that minute they are sent +home from their life work. They realize that this leaves the Koreans to +the utter and awful cruelties of the barbarous Japanese, and because of +this, in spite of their indignation they hold their tongues for the +larger good. But they eagerly give the facts to those of us who are +coming back to America so that America in turn may know what is going on +in Korea. That is the only hope; that the indignation of a righteous +world, without war, may bring pressure to bear on Japan to stop these +terrible cruelties and tortures; this unutterable frightfulness. This +is the hope of the missionaries; this is the only hope of the Koreans! + + * * * * * + +I don't know whether or not it was because I had been listening for so +long to the most brutal stories of Japanese treatment of Korean men, +women and children; with murder, rapine, burning of homes, especially +Christian homes; beating of a mother and her twelve-year-old girl from +three in the morning until eight to make them reveal the hiding-place of +their preacher daddy, that the crimson, blood-red sunset I witnessed on +my last night in Korea seemed to me like a "sunset of crimson wounds." +All I know is that it happened in Korea while I was there, and that my +soul had been, for a solid month, stirred to the depths of its righteous +wrath over the things that I had heard first-hand from human lips. + +But there it was. The sky was blood-red. At first it was black, a somber +black. Not a coal-black but a slate black. Then suddenly just at the +edge of the horizon a crack began to appear. It was a slit of blood. It +looked more like a wound than anything else I ever saw. The slit of +blood grew larger and larger in the slate-black clouds. + +Then suddenly all over the horizon these wounds began to break through +the mass of black clouds. Some of these slits were horizontal slits, +and some of them ran in graceful curves. Some of them looked as if a +bayonet had been lunged into the body of that somber cloud and a great +crimson gash was made with ragged edges as big as a house. Then it +looked as if some ruthless Japanese gendarme had taken his sword and +slashed a rip in the abdomen of that sky; and from side to side like a +crescent moon appeared this great crimson wound. + +I had never seen a sunset just like it. But there it was. It seemed that +there was back of that great black cloud a blood-red planet, pouring its +crimson tides like a great waterfall down back of that slate-black mass +until finally the curtain of black began to tear, and the blood poured +through to run along the horizon, and splash against the clouds, and +slit its way like wounds through the clouds of night. + +And I thought of something else. I thought how a Man once was crucified. +I thought how dark the skies were on that afternoon. I thought how +slate-colored and somber all life seemed, especially to that little +group of disciples. I thought of the wounds in His hands and feet and +side. I thought of the wounds the thorns in His crown made, and of the +blood that ran over His face. I could see Him there back of that cloud +in Korea. I could see His Christian people being crucified again +because of their religion. I could see Japanese bayonets thrust into His +side and Japanese nails through His feet and His hands. I could see a +Japanese crown of thorns on His head because He said, "Inasmuch as ye +have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren ye have done it +unto me." And I could see the blood of his wounds breaking through that +nation's clouds on that wonder evening of the "sunset of wounds" back of +the Korean mountains in December. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +FEMININE FLASH-LIGHTS + + +"Oriental women are fascinating to Occidental men," said a newspaper +reporter in a Shanghai hotel lobby, a year ago. + +"All women are fascinating to Occidental men. Take the French girls and +the way they captured our American soldiers; of course, these +brown-eyed, brown-skinned, graceful, mysterious----" + +"It's just as I said," replied the first speaker interrupting the second +speaker, "Oriental girls are more fascinating to Occidental men than +white girls." + +"Yes--I guess you are right, when we get down to the honest to goodness +truth of the thing," said an American oil man. "Take that Javanese girl +who knocked at the door of my room; or take that half-breed Malay girl +we met on the ship between Singapore and Batavia; or that little +red-cheeked Japanese girl in Tokyo; or that Spanish brunette in Manila; +or--Oh, Boy! Do you remember that Chinese half-breed, with English blood +in her veins and an English education in her brain and Paris clothes on +her back, and American pep in her eyes, and Japanese silk stockings on +her----" + +"Come on! Come on! We didn't call on you for a lecture on Oriental girls +whom you have met," said the first speaker. + +Then a bell boy paged me and I lost the rest of the conversation. + +But this dialogue set me to thinking on the various types of fascinating +Oriental women; the standing they have in the world; and the status of +their living. + +There were the Japanese women; beautiful, graceful, red-cheeked, small +of stature, wistful-eyed, colorfully dressed; always smiling slaves to +their men. + +The well-trained Geisha girl has, for centuries, because of her superior +education, received the confidences of Japanese men; while a Japanese +man would scorn to talk things over with his wife. + +There was the banquet we attended at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Mr. +Uchida, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and many of the high officials +of Japan were present with their wives. Several members of the House of +Parliament were present as well as the Secretary to Mr. Hara, the Prime +Minister. Each of these great leaders of Japan had his wife by his side +at the banquet table. + +It was a small group. + +One of the speakers of the evening said: "Perhaps you Americans do not +realize that this banquet is an unusual occasion in Japan. I think that +it is the first time that I have ever attended a banquet in all my life, +when so many Japanese gentlemen had their own wives with them at that +banquet. It is a very unusual thing to do, but I hope that, in time, it +will become more common in Japan, as it is in America." + +This speech was met with amused laughter on the part of the Japanese +gentlemen present; but laughter that was kindly; and it was met with +applause on the part of the Americans present. + +It was typical of the attitude of even the educated Japanese man toward +the matter of appearing in public with his wife at his side. + +Up in Sapporo, on the island of Hokkaido, we were entertained by a +beautiful Japanese woman. We had been away from America for several +months and were tired of eating Japanese food, so when we were invited +to this Japanese home for a dinner we groaned. + +But much to our delight, when we sat down we had as fine an American +dinner as any of us had ever eaten. + +I turned to our hostess, a most beautiful Japanese woman; the wife of +the Dean of the College at Sapporo; and said: "Do you have servants who +know how to cook American food?" + +"No, I cooked it all myself!" she said much to my surprise with a bow +and a smile. + +And there she sat, cool and poised after having cooked food enough for +fifteen people that morning; and arranging for it to be served in the +finest style; with place cards, salted almonds, Turkey, pudding, +vegetables and everything that makes an American dinner good; including +a fine salad. There she sat; as cool, calm and collected as if servants +had done all of the work that morning instead of she herself. + +And never in all of my life have I seen a more gracious hostess. She +watched the wants of every guest. She noted which guests liked a special +food, and saw to it that they had plenty of that particular food; and, +in addition to this she kept a fascinating line of conversation going +constantly during the meal. + +"Do you live in American fashion or Japanese fashion?" I asked her, +knowing that she had been educated in America. + +"Both!" was her reply. "We have Japanese rooms for our Japanese guests +and American rooms for our European and American guests." + +"But how do you live yourselves; how are you training your children?" I +asked her. + +"We are training our daughters to live in American style; on a common +ground with the men. That is the better way. That is the fairer way! +That is the way out of our feminine darkness!" + +She said it quietly, with poise, and with a fine assurance which was +thrilling. It sounded like a call to battle, like a trumpet note in the +new freedom for women. + +A missionary friend told me at the conclusion of that meal that this +beautiful young Japanese hostess whispered to her Mother-in-law during +the dinner a phrase that sounded strangely like American slang, when she +noted that her mother-in-law was not carrying on much of a conversation +with the man beside her, "Start something! He can speak Japanese as well +as English!" + +At that, dear Mrs. Mother-in-law started an animated conversation in +Japanese with her silent guest on her left. This was illustrative of the +care with which our hostess was watching that we be kept happy at her +table. It was a Feminine Flash-light that I do not care to forget; an +illustration of the possible efficiency, poise, grace, beauty and +sweetness of the Japanese woman of the future when she shall have won +her rights of freedom from the slavery of an inferior position to man in +the social scale. + +To an American, the position of woman in regard to prostitution in Japan +is a terrible thing, but when we consider the light in which the +Ethical thought of Japan sees it, we do not blame the women any more +than Jesus blamed the woman taken in adultery in his day. + +The system of prostitution is run by the Government and the largest +income that the Government has, comes from the sale of Sake, the +national drink, and its houses of prostitution. + +A woman who becomes a Prostitute is looked upon as a heroine. This is +for the simple reason that she is given a matter of several hundred yen, +it depending upon her form, beauty and qualifications for her position; +and that money goes to her poor parents. When she leaves her little +village to give a certain number of the years of her life to the +Yoshiwara in order to free her parents from debt she is lauded and fêted +by the people of her village and sent off as one who goes on a crusade +of service. + +Prostitution is so much a part of the acknowledged life of Japan that +Temples for prostitutes exist where they may go and pray. In one Temple +we saw large numbers of photographs put up by certain girls of the +Yoshiwara to advertise their wares. + +Consequently there is no fine tradition of ethical values established in +Japan and the poor girl herself is not to blame. Nor is she blamed; for +it is not at all an uncommon thing for a Japanese girl to marry out of +a house of prostitution into a fine family. + +One of the terrible Feminine Flash-lights that every careful traveler +discovers in the Orient is the presence of Japanese girls in the +segregated sections of Shanghai, Seoul, Peking, Nanking; and even so far +away as Singapore. I understand however that a recent order from the +Emperor has called all these girls back to Japan, which is an upward +step not only for Japan as a nation; but for the womankind of Japan. + + * * * * * + +It was in a Japanese Hotel in northern China that Pat McConnell and I +had our experience with the strange ways and customs of Japan. Pat was +taking the pictures and I was writing the stories. + +We thought it would be an unusual experience to stay all night at a +regular Japanese Inn. We stayed. + +That night, much to the amusement, of the missionaries who stayed with +us, three beautiful Japanese girls came gracefully into the cold room +where we had started to take our clothes off. + +They bowed several times as they came with cups of hot tea. + +They seemed to pay particular attention to me. + +All three of them bowed to me first and then each proceeded to select an +individual man to whom they served tea. + +I took it for granted that they had paid this particular attention to me +because of some special characteristic of masculine beauty or +intellectual appearance; or atmosphere of greatness that must have +hovered about me in some unknown fashion. + +I made the mistake of swelling up with pride and bragging about this +attention that I had received. + +"Ah, that's because of your bald head. They think that you are the old +man of the party. They have great respect for old age!" the missionary +said with a roar of laughter. + +The truth of the matter was that I was the youngest of the party, but +those girls had selected me as the venerable member of the group of +Americans. + +But the climax came when these young ladies decided to stay with us "To +the bitter end" as Pat called it. + +After filling us with tea they still remained; bowing and smiling; even +though they could not understand a word we were saying nor we a word +that they were saying. + +"It's one o'clock now! I'd like to get to bed," said Pat. + +"How long will they stay with us?" I asked. + +The missionaries only grinned in reply. + +"By George, I'm going to take my shirt off and see if they won't go!" +said Pat. + +He took it off. The young girl who was serving him took his shirt and +after neatly folding it, laid it carefully away. + +"So that's what they're waiting for; to undress us?" queried Pat and the +missionaries laughed again, waiting to see what would happen. + +"They can go as far as they like. If they can stand it, I can!" said +Pat. + +Then he took off his shoes. + +A young lady took the shoes, carefully brushed them off, and put them +away. Then he took off socks, followed by his trousers. + +It looked as they would stay until Pat got into his Pajamas. He was in a +corner. + +"It seems as if this young lady wants to put me to bed right!" said Pat, +with a grin. + +"That's exactly what she is here for. It's a hotel custom in Japanese +hotels and we get so that we don't think anything of it. They bathe in +the same pool; men and women alike; and think nothing of it. After all, +modesty is not entirely a matter of clothes, as the Japanese prove." + +"Anyhow, that's what I call service!" said Pat with a grin. + + * * * * * + +It was a cold winter night in Seoul, Korea. I had been invited to dinner +at a Korean home; the home of a former Governor under the Korean +regime; and now, a respected official under the Japanese rule. + +I had looked forward to this dinner with unusual interest. + +We took Rickshas to get there and nearly froze on the way. + +We took both our shoes and our coats off on the back porch and left them +to the tender mercies of the zero weather which prevailed on that night. + +We were ushered into this beautiful home. + +A room was full of men; stately sons of the family; the gray-bearded, +dignified father; but no women, not a single woman. I wondered about +this, for I knew that this household was noted for its beautiful +daughters and a wonderful mother. The missionaries had told me that. + +I wondered why no women came to welcome me. + +Finally we sat down to one of those interminable Oriental dinners, with +thirty or forty courses; squatted on our haunches, on the cold floor; +half-frozen, cramped and uncomfortable. + +Then in came a beautiful girl. She was beautiful in every sense of the +word; physically and spiritually. There was a touch of refinement about +her which made me know that she had received an English education. + +But she was not there for any part of the dinner. Not at all. She was +there merely to serve. + +I found that she could speak English and every time she came to serve +me, I took the opportunity of talking with her; taking a chance on +whether it was diplomatic for me to do so or not. I was after +information. + +"You speak good English?" I said. "Why do you not sit down and eat with +us?" + +She laughed aloud. + +"My father would drop over dead if I did. It is not the custom in Korea +for the women of the family to dine with the men on an occasion like +this. We eat alone in the kitchen." + +"Have you a mother?" + +"Yes, but she is in the kitchen." + +"Will I not get to meet her before I go?" + +"Perhaps? Perhaps not. If you meet her at all it will be just at the +close, of the evening, providing my father thinks to call her. It is not +important; so our Korean men think." + +"But you; you know better? You have been in an American School?" I said, +as she came in for the fifteenth course and paused a moment to talk with +me. + +"Yes, I know better! I know the American way of treating women is the +Christian way," she said sadly. + +"And what do you think of that way? Do you not like that way better +than the Korean way?" I asked. + +"The American way is much better." Then she paused and much to my +delight used a typical American girl's phrase, with an appealing touch +of pathos in her voice and a blush of crimson in her brown cheeks, "Why, +I just love the American way!" she said and then fled, blushing with +shame, as if she had said something immodest. + +I did not see her again that evening. Nor did I see any of the other +women of that household. Nor did I see the mother of the home at all. + + * * * * * + +It was in a Shanghai hospital. I was sitting beside an American +newspaper friend who was at the head of the Chinese Information Bureau. +He was a world-vagabond. Beside his bed sat a beautiful Chinese girl, +who had been educated in England and whose mother was a Scotch woman. +Her father was a full-blooded Chinese. + +"I love her but she won't marry me!" said my friend suddenly looking up +toward the Chinese girl. + +[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING. + +Long before a single cathedral had been built in Europe this beautiful +structure was erected.] + +[Illustration: A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEEN STORY PAGODA NEAR PEKING.] + +[Illustration: MILLIONS OF WAYSIDE TEMPLES AND SHRINES ADORN THE FIELDS +AND HIGHWAYS EVERYWHERE IN JAPAN, KOREA, AND CHINA. THIS IS ONE OF THEM. +A SHRINE AND A TEMPLE.] + +[Illustration: A SUNRISE SILHOUETTE PHOTOGRAPH OF SOME OF THE HUNDREDS +OF BELLS OF BUDDHA ON BOROBOEDOER, JAVA.] + +She was a beautiful girl and could play a piano as few American women I +have met. She would have graced any social room in America with her dark +beauty, her brown eyes, and her Oriental fire. She was rich. Her father +was worth several millions; being one of many shrewd Chinese business +men. She was dressed like a Parisian model, in the latest European +styles. She was in China for the first time in her life. Her father had +brought her back to marry a Chinese boy. She did not love him. She did +love my American friend. + +"Why will you not marry James?" I asked her. + +"My father would kill me," she said quietly. + +"Does he say so?" + +"He does. He went to America a week ago; and the last thing he said was, +'If you marry anything but a Chinese I will kill you!'" + +"Did he really mean it?" I asked her, astonished. + +"He meant it more than anything he ever meant in his life. It would be +considered a disgrace to my entire family if I married anybody but a +Chinese boy." + +"Even though your father married a Scotch woman?" I said. + +"For that very reason it is imperative that I marry my own blood," she +said. + +"That is terrible!" I replied catching my first glimpse of the strange +and terrible social position in which a girl of mixed blood is placed in +China. + +"You see," she said in a quiet, refined voice, with a marked English +accent, "I have an English education but I have Chinese blood. I can +never be happy marrying a Chinese after I have been educated in +England. I can never be happy with Chinese clothes, Chinese customs, and +Chinese people. And yet if I marry the man I love, it will break my +father's heart. He would kill me to be sure; for if he says he will, +that means that he will keep his word. But that would not be the worst +of it. To die would be easy." + +"What would be the worst of it?" I asked, my heart stirred with a +strangely deep sympathy at this beautiful Chinese girl's dilemma. + +"The worst thing would be that it would break my father's heart!" + +Then she wept. + +That was my first glimpse of the life of tragedy through which a +half-breed woman of the Orient has to go. + +I met them in the Philippines, with Spanish and American blood running +in their veins; I met Malay girls whose fathers had been German or +English; I met Dyak girls whose fathers had been Dutch; and Javanese +girls whose fathers had been either American, English or Dutch. + +I stayed with such a woman in a home in Borneo. She had been a Dyak +girl. Yet she did not look it. She had a beautiful home with beautiful +English speaking children. I met her in the interior of Borneo a hundred +miles from a single white woman. And yet in this far interior; living +with her English husband who was the head of a mining project; she was +keeping intact the English education of her children. There was a piano +and the children played beautifully while the mother, in a rich +contralto voice sang. + +She was graceful, accomplished, beautiful, poised and sweet. + +One night as we walked alone under the moonlight the Englishman opened +his heart to me and said, "You are going to visit the Head-Hunting Dyaks +to-morrow. You will see their abject squalor and filth. You will be +surprised when I tell you that my wife was a Dyak girl and that I took +her out of a Kampong fifteen years ago and took her to England." + +"That's a lie!" I exclaimed. + +"It is the truth!" he added. + +Somehow his statement angered me. I don't know why. Perhaps it was the +unusual heat of the tropics. We were directly on the Equator. I would +have fought him for that statement. + +But it was true. + +"And the hell of it was that when I took her to England she was not +happy and my people would not receive her. So we have had to come back +to Borneo and live our lives in this fashion, far from civilization." + +He was silent for a few minutes. + +"That is the fate of mixing bloods in these tropical lands," he said +with a shudder. "And the woman always suffers more than the man!" + +I met another Malay-English girl on the ship going from Singapore to +Batavia, Java. + +She too was an educated, English-speaking girl of a strange beauty and +fascination. She started to talk with me as I sat alone on the Dutch +ship. We were the only English-speaking people on board and we felt a +certain comradeship. We sat an entire evening talking about the problem +of a girl of mixed blood in the Malay States. + +"White men always assume that we are bad girls. They come into the +offices where we work as stenographers and insult us. It is that taint +of mixed blood. We have the longings and the ideals of the best blood +that is in our veins; but the skin and the color and the passions of the +worst. We try to be good; some of us; but everything is against us. We +can never marry white men; though we frequently fall in love with them +for we work side by side with them in the offices. But when it comes to +marrying us they fear the social ban. It is a terrible thing. There is +no way out! It is a thing that has been imposed upon us from the +generations that have gone. We pay!" + +I shall never forget her brown eyes, her brown skin, her heaving breast, +as the great Dutch ship cut the waves of the South China Sea bound for +Java. + +"Why are you leaving a good position and going to Java?" I asked her. + +"They say things are better for us girls in Java; that the Dutch are not +so particular. I shall no doubt be homesick for Singapore but I am going +to try Java for a while. My sister is there!" + + * * * * * + +A Feminine-Flash light that has its humorous side was one that I +experienced in Borneo. + +We had gone out to a Dyak village to take pictures. + +It was a miserably hot morning. That night I stayed in Pontianak which +is bisected by the Equator. It was so cold in the middle of the night +that I had to get up and put on a night shirt! + +The next day we tramped ten miles through the Jungle to a Head-hunting +Dyak village. + +I had been taking pictures for an hour in this Kampong when six of the +most beautiful Dyak girls came in, with great Bamboo water tubes flung +over their gracefully strong shoulders. Their skin looked like that of a +red banana from toe to chin. They were stark naked save for a girdle +about their loins. They had been five miles away for water. + +Their skin was flushed with exercise. There they stood, mystified at +seeing white men in the village Kampong. + +In fact they were terrified. + +Their big brown eyes bulged out. + +Their breasts heaved with fear. + +I said to the missionary, "Dyak Madonnas! What a painting they would +make?" + +"Yes, there are no more beautiful women anywhere. They look like bronze +statues. A Rodin, or a St. Gaudens would go wild over their limbs and +bodies." + +I asked the missionary to tell them that I wanted to take a picture of +them just as they were, standing with their water vessels poised on +their shoulders; in their naked splendor and beauty. + +He told them. + +They squealed for all the world like American girls and ran for dear +life, disappearing in the flash of an eye. + +He tried to coax them to come out to get a picture taken. The Missionary +could speak their language but they would only peek through the doors +with grinning faces. + +Finally they agreed that we could take their pictures if I would let +them put dresses on. + +I didn't want to do this; for I wanted them just as they were; but saw +that they were adamant in their souls even if their brown bodies did +look as soft as ripening mangos; and as beautiful and brown. + +I pictured all sorts of ugly dresses; discarded by the white folks and +given to them. But much to my surprise, when they appeared all dressed +up for the picture, every last one of them had on a white woman's +discarded night gown. + +I wanted to laugh. It destroyed their picturesqueness but those gowns +could not destroy their symmetrical beauty of limb and body. + +"That's a quick way to dress up!" I said to my missionary friend. + +We smiled but I got the picture. + +And back of these Flash-lights Feminine; is the black page of the +history of womankind in all the Far East; with footbinding still rampant +over nine-tenths of China; baby-killing, baby-selling, and baby-slavery +which I saw with my own eyes time and time again; with slavery of +womankind, from Japan down to Ceylon the regular thing. But there is +still hope in the woman-heart of the Far East; and the hope is the +American woman and her religion. That and that alone will break down +prejudices, break off shackles, and tear to bits the traditions of the +past. + + * * * * * + +"The women suffer! Yes, the women always suffer!" said a big fellow to +me up in the northern part of Luzon in the Philippines one evening. + +"What do you mean?" I asked him, scenting a story. + +Then the man told me of a cholera epidemic that he had passed through; +of how he had tried to care for the sick, even though he was not a +physician; told me of their poor superstitious methods of driving away +the "evil spirits." + +He told of how he had gone into homes where he found seven inmates dead +and four dying; of how he tried to care for them with nothing medicinal +at hand. + +Then he told me of how the poor people went down to a dirty inland river +and had killed a hog, taken its heart; killed a dog, taken its heart; +and then after putting them on a little raft, floated them off down the +river to drive the cholera away. Then he told me of how the natives had, +in their desperation, tied tight bands about their ankles to keep the +evil spirits from coming up out of the earth into their bodies. + +"But what do you yourself do about a doctor. You say that you are 400 +miles from a doctor, even here. What about your children, when they take +sick?" I asked him, and then was sorry that I had asked the question +because of a terribly hurt and unutterably sorrowful look in his eyes. + +"Mother and I don't like to talk about that or to think about it!" he +said simply, and I knew that I had torn open an old wound which was just +over his heart. + +His voice broke as he spoke, and he looked at the woman who was his +brave helpmate and said again: "Mother and I don't like to think about +that!" The tears ran down over his cheeks and "Mother's" too, and mine +also. + +"I am sorry! I am sorry if I have opened an old wound!" I said, quite +helpless to remedy the damage I had done. I felt as one who had +unwittingly trodden on a flower bed and crushed some violets. They +bleed, even though you see no blood. I saw that their hearts were +bleeding. But he spoke. + +"We were 400 miles from a doctor. Baby took sick. If we could have had a +doctor she would have been saved." + +"Now Daddy, we do not know for certain about that," said the +ever-conservative woman in her. + +"There was not a Filipino doctor. She died in mother's arms!" + +It was oppressively silent in that far-off mission home for a few +minutes. I thought some one would sob aloud. It might have been any one +of us, the way we all felt. I took hold of my cane chair with a grip +that numbed my hands for a half hour afterwards. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FUN + + +All the "Peck's Bad Boys" of the world are not confined to American +soil. + +I found them all over the Far East; especially in China. + +I was annexed by one of them who became a sort of a guide de luxe when +we were going through the ruined Palaces of the romantic regions of +Peking. + +He annexed himself to us in somewhat the same fashion as a thistle or a +burr annexes itself to you as you walk through the field where thistles +are thick. + +He was an acquired asset of questionable value. With him were a lot of +followers but it was plain to be seen that he was the leader of the +gang; which was, for all the world, like a typical street gang in an +American city. + +Who could pass up that group of a dozen little rascals who followed us +through the ruins of the old Summer Palace? Who could resist their +imitations of everything one did? I sneezed and the little rascals +sneezed also. I counted one, two, three, four, as I adjusted my Graflex +for a picture and I heard a chorus of laughing "One, two, three, fours." +I yelled ahead to an American member of the party and said "Wait!" and a +dozen boys yelled "Wait!" + +We fell in love with the dirty-faced rascals. They looked to be a +nuisance when we started and I wanted them driven back, but before we +were through they had become the most interesting part of the whole +trip. Sure enough we emptied our purses of pennies and some white money. +The little fellow who was in his bare feet and who said, with a real +touch of seven year old Chinese humor, "These are leather shoes that I +have on and they will last all my life," won our hearts. That was humor +with a vengeance. + +This lad was happy. No wonder then that when one of the party passed him +an extra penny early in the morning he winked knowingly as one who had +been taken into the inner councils of affection. + +And no wonder that he followed the man who gave him that penny to the +end of the morning, and no wonder when we told him through the +interpreter that we liked the boys because they were good boys; he said +in return, "Some boys would have followed you around, pulling your coats +and being rude and yelling at you." + +The nonchalant way in which they admitted that they were good boys won +our hearts and we came back penniless. + +Then who can forget the little rascals who smiled and winked back in the +midst of the dignified Lama ceremonies over at the Lama Temple, proving +that they were, after all, real human boys with a laugh and the spirit +of fun in their little souls in spite of their having to take part in +this dignified chanting service. + +It was fun when the service was over to see them tumble out of the +Temple so fast that one boy fell and about six fell on top of him just +as American boys do pouring out of school. I even saw one lad whack +another one on the back of his little bald head and a scuffle ensued. +They laughed, fought, tumbled pell-mell, got up again grinning, winked +and laughed back at the good natured Americans for all the world like +American boys. + +The Chinese have a distinct sense of humor and it is very much like that +which is found in our own America. Indeed the Chinese are like us in +many respects. + +The Filipino enjoys a good joke but his humor is more cruel than is +American humor. + +The Dyak of Borneo has a sense of play and fun that would not exactly +appeal to an American mind; although there are those who claim that +American football is a near kin to the delightful game of Head-hunting +indulged in by the Dyaks of Borneo. + +The Dyaks have for centuries been known as the head-hunters of the Far +East. They, in common with the Igorotes of the Philippines, have had the +playful custom of going out when the mood took them and bringing in a +few heads just as our Indians used to get scalps. When a Dyak youth +wanted to marry a nice young Dyak girl to whom he had taken a fancy (and +I can assure the reader that some of them are as beautiful as Rodin's +bronze statues), he didn't even dare mention his desire for that young +bronze beauty until he had brought in five or six heads. After that he +had some standing in the lady's sight. Without the heads he had no more +chance of winning either the girl herself or her pa or ma or any of the +Dyak family than the proverbial snowball has of getting through Borneo +without melting. It just simply couldn't be done according to Dyak +etiquette. + +Head-hunting was a game between tribes also. When two tribes of Dyaks +felt a playful mood coming on, they would challenge each other to a +head-hunting game. The game would last for a week or so and the tribe +that took the most heads won. It was nothing like "Tag you're it." If +so, some of the skulls that I have seen at Dyak Compounds would not be +grinning so hideously these days as they ornament the poles of certain +vain and proud Dyak hunters. + +The Battaks of Sumatra also have a playful custom of getting rid of +their old men. When a man gets so old that they think it is about time +for him to tell his last tale, they put him up a Cocoanut tree. Then all +of the young bucks of the village get together and try to shake him +down. If he is too feeble to hold on, and comes down, that is a sign of +heaven that his days are through and they cook him and eat him. + + * * * * * + +The Japanese claim to have a great sense of humor. Japanese students +speaking in America, insist that this is true. But travelers in Japan do +not find it so. Indeed if Japan had a sense of humor, it would keep her +out of many an international tangle. She does not know how to laugh. Her +sense of dignity is so exaggerated that she does not know the fine art +of smiling and laughing at herself. + +"What does Japan most need to learn?" a student asked me. + +"To laugh," I replied. + +"I think that you are right! Your Lincoln knew how to laugh!" was his +response as he went off thoughtfully. + +I was advertised to speak in a northern college in Japan. The Dean of +the school wanted to advertise me so that the students would all come +out to hear me. This is the way he did it: + + "Dr. Stidger is a college student who played with the foot-ball + in America. He is a man with the bigness of the head! He + reaches the six feet tall; the four feet around; has an arm + like an ox and a head like a board!" + +I was not certain as to just what he meant by many of those references, +but I was assured that they were intended to be highly complimentary to +me. I am not yet sure of that but I had a good laugh just the same. + +The story is told of a ruthless American humorist Hotel-keeper in +Singapore who was entertaining a group of Japanese Officers from the +Japanese Navy. This American had no love for Japan. He also knew of +their lack of humor; so when the Japanese Captain arrived at the hotel +the American Manager made quite an extended speech of welcome, as his +American friends listened, greatly amused. + +He said in part: "The hotel is yours! During your stay the entire force +of servants is at your disposal. If there is anything that you want that +you do not see, please ask for it." + +[Illustration: OLD BROMO VOLCANO, JAVA. + +"The way it effervesces Bromo is a fitting name," said the author when +he saw it in action.] + +[Illustration: A SIDE VIEW OF BEAUTIFUL BOROBOEDOER IN JAVA. + +Said by travelers to make the Pyramids look like child's play as a +tremendous piece of construction; and as a work of art to have no rival +in the whole world.] + +[Illustration: NAKED AND OTHERWISE. + +This curious conglomeration of Mongrel children watching the +photographer in Borneo where Dyaks, Chinese, Malay and others mix +indiscriminately.] + +[Illustration: A DOG MARKET AMONG THE IGGOROTEES OF THE PHILIPPINES.] + +The Japanese Captain bowed continuously and smiled; sucking in his +breath with a characteristic national custom; the same sound they made +as they eat fried eggs in a Japanese dining car; a sound similar to the +old-fashioned but now obsolete method of drinking coffee from a saucer. + +"There is just one request however that we will have to make of you, +while you are here with us in the hotel," continued the American hotel +manager. + +"And what is that may I ask?" inquired the Japanese Captain, still +bowing and sucking in air through his teeth. + +"That you do not climb around in the trees!" + +The Japanese officers did not see the joke and did not even smile but +the Americans in the Far East have laughed over it for years. + +Which reminds one of the night on the Sambas River when a hundred little +monkeys were silhouetted against a crimson sunset. + +Red, brown, yellow, golden, blue orchids flashed in the sunlight; and +flowers of every hue under God's blue skies made brilliant the river +banks. At times the ship went so close that I could reach out and grab a +limb of a tree, much to the indignation of the monkeys who chattered at +me as if I had stolen something. Now and then a big lazy alligator slid +into the water from the muddy banks as the wave-wash from our propeller +frightened him. + +Coming back down the Sambas River, along its winding, beautiful way we +sat one evening and watched a crimson sunset from the deck of the ship. +At one point in the river there was a row of dead, bare trees. There +were no leaves on the branches--only monkeys: big red monkeys, which +they call "Beroks," and little gray fellows, which they call "Wahwahs." +These monkeys were strikingly silhouetted against the crimson sunset in +strange tropical fashion. From the tips of those dead trees down to the +lowest branches dozens of monkeys stood like sentinels, or romped like +children, or chattered like magpies. Their long curling tails +silhouetted below the branches against the light of evening. + + * * * * * + +Most Americans who go in and out of Japan get disgusted with the +regulations that policemen impose upon them. + +This is especially true of those Americans living in China who are +compelled, for business reasons, to go in and out of Japan, for at every +trip they are required to answer the same list of questions. I traveled +from Korea into Japan with the Military Attaché of the Spanish Legation. +When we landed a Japanese officer who had known him for many years +insisted upon his answering the usual questions. + +"I've been in this country for ten years and yet I never go out or in +that they do not compel me to go through the same foolish police +regulations which they have copied from Germany and haven't sense +enough to give up!" he said indignantly. + +I also traveled with a party in which there was a Methodist Bishop's +wife. This Bishop's wife absolutely refused to give the Japanese +policeman her age. Not that she had any reason to be ashamed of her age. +In fact she could easily have passed for twenty years younger than she +probably was, but she just had the average American woman's spunk and +refused to give it. + +For a few minutes it looked as if diplomatic relations between Japan and +America might be seriously cracked, if not broken; for the Japanese +officer had no sense of humor. That is one of the chief defects of the +Japanese police and military system. It has no sense of humor. It takes +itself too seriously. It does not know how to laugh. + +To the eight or ten Americans in the party the whole matter was a huge +joke and we admired the spunk of the Bishop's wife, but the poor +Japanese police officer was facing what he thought was an international +problem. + +Need it be said that the whole matter was finally settled to the entire +satisfaction; not of the Japanese officer, but to the entire +satisfaction of the Bishop's wife. + + * * * * * + +A friend of mine who happens to be in business in the Orient got so +tried of being interviewed, trailed, and made to answer innumerable +questions about his mother, grandmother, etc., that one day on landing +in Yokohama, in a spirit of fun, he answered the officer's questions in +this manner: + +"How old are you?" + +"Thirty-six." + +"Have you a family?" + +"Yes." + +"How many children?" + +"Three." + +"How old are they?" + +"One is thirty-eight, one forty, and one forty-five." + +"What is your occupation?" + +"Commander-in-Chief of the Greenland Navy." + +"What are you doing in Japan?" + +"Getting a cargo of ice to take back to Greenland." + +After satisfying his appetite for information, the Japanese police +officer departed to make his reports, while the young American went to +his hotel with a grin all over his face. + +While he was eating his dinner that evening suddenly the Japanese +officer appeared in the dining room with a big smile on his face and +walked over to where the American sat with a group of friends. + +As he approached the American's table he said with a grin, "You +American! I know! You American!" + +"How did you guess it, my friend?" + +"You make me one tam fool!" he said holding out the report. + + * * * * * + +Some of the most laughable things that one sees in the Orient are the +Japanese signs translated into English by some Japanese merchant who has +picked up a dash of English here and there. + +One such sign which caused a lot of amusement was that of a tailor who +was trying to cater to American Tourist trade. He had, evidently, also +had some contact with the spiritual phraseology of the missionaries. He +had painted on a big sign: + + "BUY OUR PANCE! + THEY FIT YOU BETTER AND + THEY WARM YOUR LEGS LIKE THE + LOVE OF GOD!" + +Perhaps the most exhilaratingly humorous thing that the Japanese have +perpetrated on the Koreans was a list of advices printed and posted all +over Korea by the Police Department as to the regulation of Fords: + + RULES! + + 1. At the rise of hand of policeman, stop rapidly. Do not pass + him by or otherwise disrespect him. + + 2. When a passenger of the foot hove in sight, tootle the horn + trumpet to him melodiously at first. If he still obstacles your + passage, tootle him with vigor and express by word of the mouth + the warning, "hi, hi." + + 3. Beware of the wandering horse that he shall not take fright + as you pass him. Do not explode the exhaust box at him. Go + soothingly by, or stop by the roadside till he gently pass + away. + + 4. Give big space to the festive dog that make sport in the + roadway. Avoid entanglement of dog with your wheel spokes. + + 5. Go soothingly on the grease-mud, as there lurk the + skid-demon. Press the brake of the foot as you roll around the + corners to save the collapse and tie-up. + + 6. Number of people you put in the Ford: You put two in the + front house and three in the back house. + +There were other rules but this list will be sufficient as a Flash-light +of Fun to give some idea of the ridiculous way in which the average +Japanese twists the ideas and phraseology of English in the +translations. + +I saw one great sign which brought a smile. It was up on the island of +Hokkaido. It had printed in large English letters: + + "GET YOUR MOTHER'S MILK HERE!" + +Below that sentence there was a picture of a cow which looked as much +like a combination of an Elephant and a Camel as anything I know. The +artist must have been a wonder. Attached to each of the cow's udders +were long lines of hose that ran for about ten feet across a big +bill-board. At the end of each line of hose was a nipple, like our +American baby-nipples. At the end of each nipple there was a man-sized +baby pulling away at the nipple. It was one of the funniest advertising +signs I ever saw. I watched several Americans look up at it and every +one of them laughed aloud. And the funny thing about it was that it was +intended to be a serious advertising sign. + + * * * * * + +At a banquet given in the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo one of the most +side-splitting incidents happened unintentionally that ever happened at +any banquet anywhere. + +One of the sons of a great Japanese business man was speaking. The +banquet was in honor of a well-known College President from America who +had come to take up work in the Orient. This banquet was to welcome him +officially to Japan. + +One of the speakers, sitting beside Mr. Uchida, the Foreign Minister, +had been a student in America where this man was formerly the college +president and he was trying to make the crowd see how happy he was to +welcome the president to Japan. He did it in the following language as +nearly as I can remember it: + +"I feel like a cartoon I see in your peculiar paper--what you call +him--_Puck_? _Judge_? No--he bin in that peculiar paper, _Life_? That +was he. + +"This picture; he shows two dogs talking to each other. + +"One dog he a great, what you call him--Coolie? Pug? Yes, he was a +Scottish Coolie. The other was a little wee dog; a Pugnacious Dog, I +think you call him. + +"The little dog he have his tail all done up in the bandages. + +"The big dog say, 'Little dog, for why you have your tail all bandaged +up like that? You have an accident?' + +"'No,' say the little dog, 'but my master, he just come home from +France, and I am so glad to see him I bin wagging my tail all day long +until it get broke and I have to have him wrapped up like this.'" + +Then the speaker turned dramatically--with the deepest sense of +seriousness; without a trace of a smile on his face, without a glimmer +of consciousness of the fact that the Americans at that banquet were +biting their teeth to keep from bursting into laughter; and with a grand +flourish, pointed to the American dignitary and said, "I feel just like +that little dog. I so glad to see Dr. ---- come to Japan that I have +been wagging my tail all day long." + +But he got no further. The American crowd; full-dressed, and full of +dignity as it was; exploded. That speech was too much, even for the sake +of international courtesy, to expect such a crowd to hold in. +Fortunately most of the educated Japanese there saw the joke and joined +in the laugh. + + * * * * * + +We had a funny experience in a dining car on a Japanese train coming +from northern Japan down to Tokyo one evening. + +A well-dressed Japanese in a rich Kimono sat drinking heavily at a table +a few feet from us. + +Suddenly he looked up and yelled "Silence!" looking directly at us. + +It was so sudden and so funny that I laughed. This made the Japanese +gentleman angry. + +Then he let forth a more extended English sentence. Later we figured +that it was the only sentence in English that he knew, and that he had +learned that sentence by sitting at the feet of some stern, English +teacher who had occasion to reiterate that sentence frequently. + +This drunken Japanese looked at me sternly for laughing and said, +"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!" + +This was too much for my sense of humor and I laughed again. + +"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!" he yelled a third time. + +"We must get away from him; or we'll get into trouble. I can't keep from +laughing when he repeats that," I said to Dr. Goucher. + +We all moved back to another table, but Dr. Goucher sat by himself at a +little table. This moving, insulted the drunken Japanese and he came +back to where Dr. Goucher sat and leered into his face yelling once +again, "All gentlemen must be silent!" + +At this one of the party jumped to the side of Dr. Goucher and took the +Japanese by the shoulder and turned him around and said, "Go! Sit down, +fool!" + +The train was whirling through the night. There were mutterings and +imprecations among the Japanese and we thought that they were directed +toward us; but a missionary who could understand the language, said that +the whole crowd of Japanese was severely reprimanding the drunken +Japanese for insulting foreigners. They told him in Japanese phrases +that he ought to be ashamed of insulting foreigners in his own country. + +About five minutes after this he suddenly left his seat, came staggering +down the aisle of the car with a plate full of big red apples and +offered an apple to each one of us as a peace offering. + +We got to calling him, in our party "Old Mr. 'All gentlemen must be +silent!'" and he came to be a real character in our fun. + +But one morning a month later as we were all boarding a train in Fusan, +Korea, bound for Seoul, who should be sitting in the car but "Old Mr. +'All gentlemen must be silent.'" + +This time he was in American clothes. We had a Japanese friend with us. +We told this friend about the incident on the train in northern Japan +and asked him who the man was. + +"Why that is a member of the House of Lords and he is going up to Korea +representing the Diet to make a report on the Korean outrages," we were +told. + +Another month passed and I was coming back from Seoul, Korea, to Tokio, +Japan, when I suddenly ran into our old friend "All gentlemen must be +silent!" This time he was drunk again, and sitting in a Japanese dining +car with the same Kimono on that he had worn the first time we saw him. +He saw me enter the car. + +I tried to avoid him, but he was not to let this opportunity for +international courtesy go by unnoticed and unimproved. So, much to my +delight and surprise, he arose, and made a low bow. + +I bowed back. He made another bow until his nose almost touched the car. +I made a return bow. He made a third one. I followed suit. He made a +fourth. I made a fourth, although I was beginning to feel dizzy and my +insides were beginning to complain. + +I wondered when the thing would stop. I thought of a hundred fat men I +had seen on a Gymnasium floor trying to do the same thing and touch the +floor with their hands. I knew that there was a limit to my endurance in +a test of this kind. He bowed five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten times, +and I bowed back. I could see things whirling around me. + +"Blame it, why doesn't he stop some time!" I said to myself. + +I was desperate. Then suddenly I looked at him and he looked at me and +he said, with great dignity, "All gentlemen must be silent!" and sat +down, with his friends and his wines. + +I don't know whether he realized how funny it was or not. I don't know +whether he even knew what he was saying in his drunken condition, but I +do know that when I got out of that car into the vestibule I had the +laugh of my life. A Japanese woman came by, smiled at me and I am sure +said to herself: + +"Ah, these Americans they are all crazy!" + + * * * * * + +The last Flash-light of Fun is a picture from the Philippines. + +I have spoken in the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" of the trip to +the Negrito tribe, but in that chapter I did not speak of the desperate +adventure of the trip back down the jungle trail to civilization after +the experience with the old man. + +For the second time on that memorable day I dropped in my tracks with a +sunstroke. My legs refused to move. My muscles were congested with waste +matter and evidently my brain was also. When I returned to consciousness +I saw lying beside me Mr. Huddleston, an old missionary who had been in +the Philippines for many years. Across from, him was a naked Negrito who +was acting as our guide. + +I looked up in a tree above us and saw what I thought was a group of +monkeys. + +"Look at the monkeys!" I said to the missionary. + +"There are no monkeys in that tree!" he said. + +That made me angry. My mind was affected by the sun to such an extent +that I had an insane desire to grab the Bolo of the Negrito guide out of +his belt and run it through the missionary. I made a determined mental +effort to do so, but my arm would not work. I strove as one strives in a +dream when he is trying to run away from some imagined danger and his +feet are tied down. If I could have gotten my hands on that bolo I +would have run it through the missionary without a minute's hesitation. + +But my mind was detracted from this thought by two large elephants which +I suddenly saw running down the path on which we were lying. I yelled +aloud! + +"The elephants! They will trample us man! Look! There they come!" I +cried pointing up the trail on which we were lying. + +"Why you're plumb crazy man! You've missed too many boats! That sun's +got you! There are no elephants on this trail!" + +"But I know elephants when I see them!" I cried and tried to roll out of +the trail but again found it impossible to make my brain and my muscles +coordinate. It was a terrible moment to me. + +"My God man! Are you crazy! I know elephants when I see them. They're +right on us now! Help me out of here! I can't move!" + +"I tell you there are no elephants and there are no monkeys in these +islands. I've been here twenty years or more!" + +"But I know elephants when I see them!" + +But just at that moment a much greater danger confronted us, for I saw +three tigers leap out of the jungle and start after the two elephants; +right down the trail toward us. Then I knew that we were as good as +dead. + +I yelled: "Tigers! Tigers! They are running after the elephants! They +are on top of us!" + +The fool of a missionary laughed aloud, as he lay on the trail and said, +"Plumb crazy! Plumb crazy! Sun's got him! Sun's got him!" + +"Sun's got who, fool? The elephants and tigers will kill us in about a +minute!" + +But just then something happened which upset my calculations and made me +have a feeling that--after all--perhaps the old missionary was +right--for suddenly those two elephants; being too closely pursued by +the tigers; nonchalantly flew into the air like two great birds, and +lighted in the tree over our heads where I thought the monkeys were. If +those elephants hadn't started to fly; I should still be arguing with +the missionary; but as it turned out; I shut my fool mouth and decided +that the missionary was right and that I had "Missed too many boats." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FREEDOM + + +"SELF-DETERMINATION!" That phrase has set the whole world on fire! + +"Independence!" That word somehow has awakened the Oriental world; +awakened that mass of humanity as it has never been awakened before. + +Korea perhaps has thrilled to this awakening as no other section of the +Orient or the Near and Far East. India's millions are restless; the +Filipino is hungry for Independence although he is loyal to the United +States; but Korea has the matter set in its heart like adamant. This +determination will never be broken; Korea will never be conquered by +Japan! + +This dream of complete and full independence is buried in the souls of +the children, as well as in the souls of the brave women, and of the old +men of Korea. + +"It is one of the most thrilling things I have ever seen in the Orient!" +said a man on the Editorial staff of _Millard's Weekly_. "It is the most +significant outcome of the war; Korea's passion for independence, and +the Student Movement in China!" + +I said to a business man of California who had traveled all over the +Orient and who had been sent as part of the Commission that prepared the +way for the abandonment of the Picture Bride custom, "What is the most +significant thing you have seen in the Orient?" + +"The determination of the Koreans for Self-determination!" was his quick +reply. + +"Will they get it?" + +"It is inevitable in time!" he responded, and then he added: "Why the +little rascals; the children, I mean; paint the Korean flags on their +brown bellies, because the Japanese gendarmes will not allow them to +display the Korean flag in public!" and he laughed aloud at the memory. + +"Have you seen Korean kiddies with flags painted on their stomachs?" + +"Dozens of them. They like to show them to Americans," he said. + +A week later I was walking with a Korean missionary and asked him if +what the business man from California had told me about the children was +true and he said, "Wait until we find a group of them." + +We waited for only a few minutes when we ran into a crowd coming home +from school. A friendly smile and a low-voiced "Mansei" got attention. + +Then we pointed to our own stomachs. + +In a flash they caught on to what we wanted and, looking around +cautiously, each little rascal untied his robe and there, sure enough +was the flag of his country painted on his stomach. + +"That is one of the most thrilling sights I have seen in the Orient!" I +said with tears in my eyes. "If the children of the land feel that way, +Korea will never be conquered!" + +"The American understands! The American understands!" one of the little +bright-eyed boys said to the missionary in Korean. + + * * * * * + +A missionary was teaching a class of Koreans about Heaven. + +A little hand shot up. + +The missionary nodded that the child could speak. + +"Will there be any Japs in Heaven?" + +This was a baffling question; for diplomatic destinies were at stake. +But missionaries are usually honest, so she said, "Yes, if they are good +Japs!" + +"Then I don't want to go!" said the little eight-year-old Korean with +emphasis. + +Another teacher was telling a class in Geography to draw a map of the +Orient. + +One Korean child said, "Do we have to put in that little group of +islands east of the coast of China?" + +I met one Korean whom I had known in America. He was educated in the +American universities. He was in every sense of the word a gentleman and +an intellectual. + +He told me that the older children of his family had taught the +nine-months-old baby to raise its hands in the air above its head +whenever the word "Mansei" was spoken. + +I got an electrical shock of patriotism the day I saw that tiny child +lift its little arms above its head when that sacred word was spoken. It +was like a benediction of freedom! + +"This posture of the child is more significant," said Mr. ----, "when +you know that the most cruel method of torture that the Japanese use is +that of stretching a man, woman or child up by the thumbs to the ceiling +with his toes just touching the floor." + +In that same posture of torture Koreans rise to their toes when they +give their national cry of "Mansei" for all the world like an American +student giving his college yell. + +"It means life and death to give that cry as you know," said this +intelligent Korean. + +"Then what will your children do when they grow a bit older and go out +on the streets and yell this cry?" I asked this intelligent father. + +"Be killed, no doubt, by some ignorant, ruthless Japanese gendarme!" he +said with finality. + +"Then you should not allow them to teach its tiny lips that word!" I +said. + +"I would rather my child were dead than to have it forget that cry!" + +In this same family one Sunday afternoon a two-year-old child was +sleeping on a mat. The father and mother were reading some American +papers sent them by their old college friends in the United States. + +Suddenly that little two-year-old sat straight up in its mat bed, lifted +its arms in the air and shouted "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!" three times +and then dropped back to sleep as if nothing had happened. + +"How did you feel?" I asked my Korean friend. + +"It made me cry. I said to my wife 'As long as Korea has babies with +that in their little souls before they are two years of age, Korea will +never be assimilated by Japan!'" + +The children of Korea look up at the ceiling when a Japanese teacher +enters a room. They are compelled to have Japanese teachers; even in the +mission schools. The children refuse to do anything for a Japanese +teacher. + +One day a Japanese teacher thought that he would break that mood by +telling a funny story. He told it with skill. + +But not a child laughed, although one of them said to her father that +night, "It was hard not to laugh for it was a very funny story!" + +"Who tells you to do these things; you students? Who teaches you to +treat your Japanese teachers in that manner?" my Korean friend asked his +six-year-old child. + +"Nobody tells us; we just do it ourselves! All the children hate the +Japanese!" he replied with the wisdom of a grown man. + +All over Korea we saw Korean flags cut in walls, carved on stones, and +against excavations where the sand was impressionable to little fingers +and sticks. I took many photographs of these unconventional flags. + +There is one instance where Korean children went on a strike just at +Commencement time. It meant that they would not get their diplomas but +that was just the reason they did it: to show their contempt for +Japanese diplomas. + +Japanese authorities begged them to return to school. + +Finally on Commencement Day they decided to return. + +Something had happened. + +It was a day of rejoicing among the Japanese so they invited a lot of +Japanese officers to the Commencement exercises. + +The diplomas were given, to each boy; the Japanese teachers bowing, and +smiling in their peculiar way. + +Then a thirteen-year-old Korean boy stepped to the front to make the +address of thanks. He made a beautiful speech of thanks. The Japanese +teachers were bowing with delight. + +But the boy's speech was not finished. He paused toward the end, threw +back his blouse, lifted his proud head and said, "I have only this one +thing further to add." + +He knew the seriousness of what he was about to do. He knew that it +would possibly mean death to him and his relatives. + +"We want but one thing of you Japanese. You have given us education, and +you have given us these diplomas. The teachers have been good to us." + +Then he reached in his blouse and pulled out a Korean flag. To have one +in one's possession is a crime in Korea in the judgment of the Japanese. + +Waving it above his little head he cried, "Give us back our country! May +Korea live a thousand years! Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!" + +At that signal every boy in that school jumped to his feet, whipped out +a Korean flag and frantically waved it in the air, weeping and yelling +in wild abandonment to the faith and courage of freedom in their +hearts! + +Then they tore their diplomas up before the horrified and angered +Japanese teachers. + +The result was a great student demonstration for freedom; which was +broken up by a force of Japanese gendarmes with drawn swords; but not +before the shooting of many boys and girls; and not before over four +hundred girls and boys were thrown into prison; some of them never to +emerge. + +In the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" I told the story of the +seventy-five-year-old Korean who unflinchingly faced the Japanese +gendarmes and admitted that he knew the source from which the +Independence Movement had come; and knew the signers of the Declaration +personally; every one of them. This spirit burns in the heart of, not +only the babies of Korea but also in the souls of the white haired +stately patriarchs. + +One old man who was dumb had his own way of expressing his patriotism +when "Mansei" was yelled. He always lifted his arms above his head. He +could not speak but he could yell with his arms! + +This placed the Japanese authorities in the ridiculous position of +arresting a dumb man for yelling "Mansei!" + +They tortured him for months. He was told that he would be released if +he would promise never to lift his hands above his head again. + +He could not speak in answer to their demands. They waited. + +Suddenly he caught their meaning. They were trying to frighten him from +giving vent to his only method of showing his patriotism. + +His eyes flashed fire. He leapt to his feet with a contemptuous look at +his Japanese captors. + +Then like flashing piston rods of steel his arms shot into the air above +his head three times, shouting in their mute patriotism, "Mansei! +Mansei! Mansei!" + +Nor are the women void of this determination for freedom. It beats in +their brave hearts. It is a great flame in their souls as well as in the +hearts of the children and men of the peninsula. + +"The soul's armor is never set well to heart unless a woman's hand has +braced it, and it is only when she braces it loosely that the honor of +manhood fails!" says Robert McKenna in "The Adventure of Life." + +If that is a true definition of the strength of honor and the desire for +freedom then the armor of the Korean men is well set. + +Sauci, a young Korean girl was under arrest. She was just a school girl +and very beautiful; with dark brown eyes; skin the color of a walnut; +and a form, bred of the grace of her much walking race. She had walked +the innumerable trails of her native land from babyhood and the rhythmic +swing of her supple body would have made any race, save that of her +conquerors, reverent with admiration. + +Sauci was too much for her Japanese captors. + +The Japanese guard struck her across the mouth with a whip. + +"That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I don't hate you for +that blow!" said Sauci. + +This angered the Jap and he struck her again. This stroke left a streak +of blood across her face. + +Sauci said again, "That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I do +not hate you for striking me!" + +The gendarme was furious. His anger was like that of a beast. He flew at +her blindly, and struck, struck, struck her woman's body until he was +exhausted. + +A few days later when she was recovering from that brutal beating, a +high official of the Japanese gendarme force came to see her. + +"Sauci," said he to her, recognizing her for an intelligent Korean girl, +"why do not the Koreans like us?" + +She replied, "I had a dream last night here in the cell. That will tell +you why. In my dream a visitor came to our home and stayed for dinner. +Then instead of going home, the visitor stayed all night. Then the +visitor stayed two or three days. Then two or three months. Then two or +three years. We were surprised but were too polite to say anything. + +"But finally the visitor got to telling us how to run our house." + +"How?" asked the Japanese official, "Did the visitor tell you how to run +your house?" + +"The visitor," replied Sauci, "told us that he didn't like our wall +paper. 'I think you had better get new paper!' he said. 'I do not like +your clothes and your schools. Wear clothes like mine, and have schools +like mine. I do not like your way of talking. Learn my language!' + +"So finally we got tired of our visitor and said, 'Please go home! WE do +not like you! We do not want you! Please go home!'" + +"But what has that to do with us?" said the Japanese official. + +"Why in a few days the visitor in my dream went home!" said Sauci +simply. "And in a few years the Japanese will go back home also!" Such +is the courageous spirit of the Korean women. + + * * * * * + +One day an American friend of mine had gone to the Police Station with a +young Korean girl who had been summoned to appear on what was called a +"rearrest charge." + +For the Japanese feel perfectly free to rearrest a person even after +that person has been proven innocent of a charge. A Korean may be +rearrested any time. He can never feel free. + +This young, educated girl had been subjected to such indignities on her +previous arrest as I would not be able to describe in this book; so she +begged the woman friend to go with her. + +As she entered the station a rough, ignorant Japanese officer snarled at +her as she passed, "Hello! Are you here again? I thought you were still +in prison!" + +When he had gone from the room the Korean girl said to the American +woman, "That man beat me for ten hours one day the last time I was in +prison!" + +"Why did he beat you?" asked the missionary. + +"He was trying to compel me to give him the names of those girls who +belonged to the 'Woman's League'." + +"And you would not tell him their names?" + +"I would rather have been beaten to death than give him their names!" + +"Thank God for your courage!" said the missionary, for she had seen the +girl's body when she had gotten out of prison; the burns of cigarette +stumps all over her beautiful skin; the scars, the whip marks; the +desecrations. + +When I was told this story, amid the tears of the narrator, an American +college woman, she concluded with fire in her soul: "I have never seen +such courage on the part of women in all my life! Even mere girls and +children have it. Most of those who are arrested come out of our +American Missionary schools. There isn't a one of them who doesn't have +in her soul the spirit of Joan of Arc. If France had one Joan of Arc, +Korea has ten thousand!" + +One young girl of whom I heard was kept in prison under constant torture +for six months. And a cruel imprisonment it is. I visited this prison +myself one winter day when I was in Korea. The thermometer was at zero; +the snow covered the ground, and there wasn't a fire in a single room in +that prison save where the Japanese guards were staying, and they were +huddled around a roaring coal stove. + +And this is the show prison of the whole Peninsula. The Japanese take +visitors through it. But to an American even it is fit only for the +darkness of the Middle Ages. + +In its limited quarters I saw ten and fifteen young girls, sweet faced, +cultured, educated school girls, huddled together in narrow rooms, +without a single chair, so closely packed that they were seated on the +floor like bees in a hive. + +After six months of this awful life the girl of whom I speak was about +to be released. + +The guard questioned her. "Now what are you going to do?" + +Her answer came, quick as a shot, although she knew that it would send +her back to the hell from which she was about to be released. + +"It is either liberty for Korea or we die!" she said. + +And in three minutes, beaten, and dragged on the ground by the hair she +was thrown into the cell from which she had been taken; to rot and die +as far as the Japanese were concerned. + +Another girl who had been kept in jail 135 days without even a charge +having been preferred against her was released. Her old mother came to +meet her and while in Seoul the mother attended an Independence Meeting +for women. The whole crowd of women then went to the Police Station and +shouted "Mansei"! + +The mother was arrested and cruelly beaten in spite of her seventy-five +years of age. + +When they were through beating her they said, "Now will you refrain from +yelling, 'Mansei!'" + +"Never!" said this old woman. + +Then they took a bar of iron and beat her over the legs until she +dropped. + +"Now will you refrain from yelling 'Mansei?'" + +The old woman was weak, but in a low, painful whisper said, "The next +time the women come to yell, if I am able to walk I will be with them!" + +Another old woman was brought to prison for yelling "Mansei!" When they +asked her why she yelled "Mansei" she answered in a sentence that sums +up the entire spirit that is in the woman-heart of Korea. + +"I have only one word in my head and that is 'Mansei!'" + +I personally, one day in Korea, saw the Japanese gendarmes come for a +Korean girl. She was one of the most popular girls in the American +Methodist Missionary School. + +It was the common custom for Japanese officials to come and take Korean +girls out of these schools, without warning, without warrants, without +words, and carry them off to prison. + +Often the girl was not even permitted to say good-by to her American +teachers or to write a word to her parents. + +"They are not even permitted to supply themselves with toilet articles," +said the matron to me that day. + +On this day, six big, brutal, ugly faced, animal-like Japanese officers +came for this beautiful girl. + +The missionary women wept as the girl was dragged away. The girl waved +good-by. + +It was a sight never to be forgotten; one of those Flash-lights of +Freedom, which burned its way into my soul with the hot acid of +indignation. This injustice and indecency in the treatment of a pure +girl made my blood run hot in my veins. + +The look on her face I shall never forget. It was such a look as the +martyrs of old must have had when they died for their faith. + +"Good-by! Good-by! Give my love to Mary and Elizabeth!" she cried to the +missionary woman standing by, helpless to assist her. These two names +were children of the missionary home; children whom this Korean girl had +learned to love as she lived in this American home. + +"And the awful thing about it all, is," said the missionary to me as +they took the girl away, "that, as pure as that girl is, as pure as a +flower, she will be taken to a prison fifty miles from Seoul, kept there +under torture for six months, and she will not be allowed to see her +friends. They will not even allow us to visit her. She may be undressed +and spat upon by men who are lower than animals. She may suffer even +worse than that----" + +Then the American missionary woman fainted. + +That flash-light may be duplicated a hundred times in Korea. + +"The woman of Korea suffers as much as the man. But thank God they do +not flinch!" said an American missionary. + +The Japanese Gendarmes have forbidden the singing of several of the +great church hymns in mission churches because they insist that these +are hymns of Freedom; that they foment what the Japanese call "Dangerous +Ideas." Japanese spies have reported certain Seoul Methodist churches +for singing hymns that, to their way of thinking, were directed against +the Japanese Government. This particular illustration of the peculiar +workings of the Japanese mind might have been included in the chapter on +Flash-lights of Fun; were it not for the fact that the Japanese officers +themselves call these old church hymns "Hymns of Freedom." + +The Japanese are just as much afraid of these "Dangerous Thoughts" in +Japan as they are in Korea. A good illustration of this fear is the fact +that a certain picture corporation of America called "The Liberty Film +Company" sent several films to Japan. The Government would not allow +these pictures to be shown until that word "Liberty" was cut from the +film. + +Certain Japanese spies reported a Mission church in Seoul for singing +"Rock of Ages." + +"But why may we not sing 'Rock of Ages'?" asked the American preacher in +charge. + +"Because it starts off with 'Mansei!'" replied the officer. + +He interpreted the thought of "Rock of Ages" to be a direct imputation +that the Japanese Government was not able to take care of the Koreans +and that they were flying to some other protecting power. + +"It would be funny if it were not so serious!" said a missionary to me +one day in Seoul. + +Later they stopped the churches from singing "Nearer My God to Thee," +because there seemed to be an implication in that, that those who sang +that hymn, were swearing allegiance to a higher power than that of +Japan. + +"Ridiculous! Absolutely ridiculous!" I said in disgust. + +"Yes, ridiculous, but serious," replied the missionary, "when you have +to live with it year in and year out." + +"Crown Him Lord of All," insisted the Japanese spies, when they +seriously reported a certain church for singing that old hymn was +"Dangerous Thought." It seemed to this ignorant spy that "Crowning Him" +was putting some other power before that of the Japanese Government. + +"All Hail the Power of Jesus' Name" has been put under the ban and when +a certain missionary woman was asked to sing at the Korean Y.M.C.A. and +announced that she was going to sing "Oh, Rest in the Lord" she was +advised not to sing it because it was considered by the gendarmes to be +"Dangerous Thought" and to suggest "Liberty," "Freedom" and such +dangerous words and ideas. + +When one Protestant preacher prayed about "Casting Out Devils" he was +reported by Japanese spies, who insisted that he was talking about +Japanese in Korea and meant that these should be cast out of the land. + +"'It is to laugh!' as the French say!" I responded to this story. + +"No! It is to weep!" said the American missionary. + +When Dr. Frank W. Schoefield spoke against Prostitution the Japanese +papers declared that he had made a virulent attack on the Government. + +One Korean preacher who preached on a theme from Luke 4:18, which reads +"Setting the captives free," was arrested and kept in jail for four +days. + +"It is very foolish to yell 'Mansei' when you know you will be killed," +I said to a Korean preacher. I wanted to see how he would take that +suggestion. + +"We Koreans would rather be under the ground than on top of it if we do +not get our liberty!" he said with a thrill in his quiet voice. + +One day a Korean preacher was arrested for preaching on the theme, "Seek +ye first the Kingdom of God and all these things shall be added unto +you," because that was, without doubt, disloyal to Japan and meant +rebellion. + +Another day a speaker in the Y.M.C.A. said, "Arise and let us build for +the new age!" He was asked to report to Police Headquarters just what he +meant by that kind of "Dangerous" talk about Freedom. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAILURE + + +Three great Flash-lights of Failure stand out in the Far East and the +Oriental world to-day; one being the failure of a race to survive, +another being the failure of the world to understand that Shantung is +the Holy Land and not the appendix of China; this sacred shrine of the +Chinese which has so carelessly and listlessly been given over to Japan; +and the third being Japan's failure to understand that methods of +barbarism from the Dark Ages will not work in a modern civilization. + +"Why are they making all this fuss over Shantung?" an acquaintance of +mine said to me just before I left America. "Isn't it just a sort of an +appendix of China, after all? If I were the Chinese, I'd forget Shantung +and go on to centralize and develop what I had." + +That was glibly said, but the fact which the statement leaves out of +reckoning is that Shantung is the very heart and soul of China instead +of being the appendix. + +The average American has so often thought of China just as China; a +great, big, indefinite, far-off nation of four hundred million people, +always stated in round numbers, that Shantung doesn't mean much to us. +Yes, but it means much to China. + +It means about the same as if some nation should come along and take New +England from us; New England, the seat of all our most sacred history, +the beginning of our national life, the oldest of our traditions, the +burial-place of our early founders, the seat of our religious genesis. I +don't believe that many folks in New England would desire to be called +an appendix of the United States. + +So one of the things that I was determined to do when I went to China +was to go from one end of Shantung to the other, talking with coolies, +officials, old men and young men, students, and those who can neither +read nor write; missionaries and soldiers; natives and foreigners; to +see just what importance Shantung is to China as a whole. + +The first thing I discovered was that it has about forty million people +living within the limits of the peninsula, close to half the population +of the United States. Does that sound as if it might be China's +appendix? You wouldn't think so if you saw the cities, roads and fields +of this great stretch of land literally swarming with human beings, and +every last one of them, as busy as ants. + +I rode one whole day across the peninsula. I happened to be traveling +with a man from Kansas. He was a man interested in farming and +wheat-growing. For hundreds of miles we had been passing through land +that was absolutely level and every inch of it cultivated. I had been +saying to myself over and over again, "Why, it's exactly like our Middle +West Country." + +Then much to my astonishment this Kansas man turned to me, and said, +"Did it ever occur to you that these fields of Shantung look just like +Kansas?" + +"Yes, it has just occurred to me this minute," I responded. + +Then the wife of the Kansas man said, "I have been shutting my eyes and +trying to imagine that I was in Kansas, it's so much like home." + +"And say, man, but a tractor on those fields would work wonders," added +a portion of William Allen White's reading constituency. + +And that is exactly how Shantung strikes an American when he has ridden +all day through its great stretches of level fields. He can easily +imagine himself riding through Kansas for a day. + +My first visit to Shantung was at Tsingtao, the headquarters of the +German concession and now of the Japanese concession. I spent a day +there, and took photographs of the wharves and town. On the wharves +were still standing hundreds of boxes marked with German names and the +inevitable phrase "Made in Germany." Those boxes were mute reminders of +the evacuation of one nation from a foreign soil. But standing side by +side with these boxes were also other hundreds, already being shot into +Shantung in a steady stream; and these boxes have a new trademark +printed in every case in English and Japanese, "Made in Japan." + +I spent several days in Tsinanfu and Tientsin, two great inland cities, +and more than a week in cruising about through Shantung's little towns, +its villages and its sacred spots. + +I heard of its mines and of its physical wealth. But the world already +knows of that. The world already knows that this physical wealth of +mines and raw material was what made it look good to Germany and Japan. +But the thing that impressed me was its spiritual wealth. + +The thing that makes Shantung attractive to the Japanese, of course, is +not the spiritual wealth, as the world well knows. Perhaps the Japanese +have never considered the latter any more than the Germans did; but the +one thing that makes it most sacred to the Chinese, who are, after all, +a race of idealists, is its treasuries of spiritual memories and +shrines. + +In the first place, many Chinese will tell you that it is the "cradle of +the Chinese race." I am not sure that histories will confirm this +statement. And I am also not sure that that makes any difference as long +as the idea is buried in the heart of the Chinese people. A tradition +often means as much to a race as a fact. And the tradition certainly is +well established that Shantung is the birthplace of all Chinese history. +So that is one of the deeply rooted spiritual facts that makes Shantung +sacred to the Chinese. + +The second spiritual gold mine is that one of its cities, Chufu, is the +birthplace and the last resting-place of the sage Confucius. And China +is literally impregnated with Confusian philosophy and Confucian +sayings. + +I took a trip to this shrine in order to catch some of the spiritual +atmosphere of the Shantung loss. The trip made it necessary to tramp +about fifteen miles coming and going through as dusty a desert as I ever +saw, but that was a trifle compared with the thrill that I had as I +stood at last before the little mound about as high as a California +bungalow; the mound that held the dust of this great Chinese sage. +During the war I stood before the grave of Napoleon in France. Before I +went to France I visited Grant's tomb. I have also stood many times +beside a little mound in West Virginia, the resting-place of my mother, +and I think that I know something of the sacredness of such experiences +to a human heart, but somehow the thrill that came to me on that January +morning, warm with sunlight, spicy with winter cold, produced a feeling +too deep for mere printed words to convey. + +"If we feel as we do standing here on this sacred spot, think of how the +Chinese feel toward their own sage!" said an old missionary of the +party. + +"Yes," added another, "and remember that the Chinese revere their +ancestors and their sages and their shrines more than we ever dream of +doing. Any grave is a sacred spot to them, so much so that railroads +have to run their trunk lines for miles in a detour to avoid graves. +These Chinese are idealists of the first water. They live in the past, +and they dream of the future." + +"When you get these facts into your American heads," added a third +member of the party, not without some bitterness, "then you will begin +to know that the Chinese do not estimate the loss of Shantung in terms +of mineral wealth." + +At Chufu, the resting-place of Confucius, there is also the spot of his +birth, and this too is most sacred to the Chinese nation. We visited +both places. I think that I never before quite realized just what the +loss of Shantung meant to these Chinese until that day, unless it was +the next day, when we climbed the sacred mountain Taishan, which is +also in Shantung. + +"It is the oldest worshiping-place in the world," said the historian of +the party. "There is no other spot on earth where continuous worship has +gone on so long. Here for more than twenty centuries before Christ was +born men and women were worshiping. Emperors from the oldest history of +China down to the present time have all visited this mountain to +worship. Confucius himself climbed the more than six thousand steps to +worship here." + +"Yes," said another missionary historian, "and this mountain is referred +to twelve separate times in the Chinese classics, and great pilgrimages +were made here as long ago as two centuries before Christ." + +That day we climbed the mountain up more than six thousand stone steps, +which are in perfect condition and which were engineered thousands of +years ago by early worshipers. + +The only climb with which I can compare that of Mt. Taishan is that of +Mt. Tamalpais overlooking San Francisco. The climb is about equal to +that. The mountain itself is about a mile in height, and the climb is a +hard one to those who are unaccustomed to mountain-climbing, and yet +thousands upon thousands climb it every year after pilgrimages from all +over China. + +We climbed to the top of Taishan, and saw the "No-Character Stone" +erected by Emperor Chin, he who tried to drive learning out of China +hundreds of years ago. We saw the spot on which Confucius stood, and +glimpsed the Pacific Ocean, ninety miles away, on a clear day. It was a +hard climb; but, when one stood on the top of this, the most sacred +mountain of all China, he began to understand the spiritual loss that is +China's when her worshiping-place is in the hands of aliens. + +"And don't forget that Mencius, the first disciple of Confucius, was +born and died in Shantung, too, when you are taking census of the +spiritual values of Shantung to the Chinese," was a word of caution from +the old missionary who was checking up on my facts for me. He had been +laboring in China for a quarter of a century. + +"And don't forget that the Boxer uprising originated in Shantung, and +don't forget that it is called, and has been for centuries, 'the Sacred +Province' by the Chinese. It is their 'Holy Land.' And don't forget +that, from Shantung, coolies went to South Africa in the early part of +this century and that the Chinese from Shantung were the first to get in +touch with the western world. And don't forget that nine-tenths of the +coolies who went to help in the war in France were from Shantung!" he +added with emphasis. This was a thing that I well knew, for I had, only +a few weeks before this, seen two thousand coolies unloaded from the +_Empress of Asia_ at Tsingtao. + +No, Shantung is not an appendix of China, as many Americans suppose; but +it is the very heart and soul of China. It is China's "Holy Land." It is +the "Cradle of China." It is the "Sacred Province of China." It is the +shrine of her greatest sage. It is the home of "the oldest +worshiping-place on earth." It is because of its spiritual values that +China is unhappy about the loss of Shantung, and not because of its +wealth of material things. + +The failure of the world to understand what Shantung means to China and +the failure of Japan to understand that they cannot for many years stand +out against the indignation of the entire world in continuing to keep +Shantung is one of the great spiritual failures of the Far East in our +century. + +The second great failure is the tragic failure of an entire race of +people; that of the Ainu Indians of Japan. + +It is a pathetic thing to see a human race dying out; coming to "The End +of the Trail." But I was determined to see them, in spite of the fact +that people told me I would have to travel from one end of Japan to the +other; and then cross four hours of sea before I got to Hokkaido, the +most northern island of Japan, where lived the tattered remnants of +this once noble race. + +The name of this dying race is pronounced as if it were spelled I-new +with a long I. + +These are the people who inhabited Japan before the present Japanese +entered the land from Korea and drove them, inch by inch, back and north +and west across Japan. It was a stubborn fight, and it has lasted many +centuries; but to-day they have been driven up on the island of +Hokkaido, that northern frontier of Japan where the overflow of Japan is +pouring at the rate of four thousand a year, making two million to date +and only about fifty thousand of them Ainus. + +"Are they like our American Indians in looks, since their history is so +much like them?" I asked my missionary friend. + +"Wait until you see them, and decide for yourself. I know very little +about American Indians." + +So one morning at three o'clock, after traveling for two days and nights +from one end of Japan to the other, and then crossing a strait between +the Japan Sea and the Pacific Ocean to the island, we climbed from our +train, and landed in a little country railroad station. + +It was blowing a blizzard, and the snow crashed into our faces with +stinging, whip-like snaps. + +I was appointed stoker for the small stove in the station while the +rest of the party tried to sleep on the benches arranged in a circle, +huddled as close as they could get to the stove. + +We were the first party of foreigners of this size that had ever honored +the village with a visit. And in addition to that we had come at an +unearthly hour. + +Who but a group of insane foreigners would drop into a town at three +o'clock in the morning with a blizzard blowing? Either we were insane, +or we had some sinister motives. Perhaps we were making maps of the +seacoast. + +And before daylight half of the town was peeking in through the windows +at us. Then the policemen came. They were Japanese policemen, and did +not take any chances on us. Even after our interpreter had told them +that we were a group of scientists who had come to visit the Ainus they +still followed us around most of the morning, keeping polite track of +our movements. + +About five o'clock that morning, as I was trying to catch a cat-nap, the +newsboys of the village came to get the morning papers which had come in +on the train on which we had arrived. They unbundled the papers in the +cold station; their breath forming clouds of vapor; laughing and joking +as they unrolled, folded and counted the papers; and arranged their +routes for morning delivery. + +It took me back to boyhood days down in West Virginia. I did the same +thing as these Japanese boys were doing. I, too, arose before daylight, +climbed out of bed, and went whistling through the dark streets to the +station where the early morning trains dumped off the papers from the +city. I, too, along with several other American boys of a winter +morning, breathed clouds of vapor into the air, stamped my feet to keep +them warm, and whipped my hands against my sides. I, too, unwrapped the +big bundles of papers, and did it in the same way in which these +Japanese boys did, by smashing the tightly bound wrappers on the floor +until they burst. I, too, counted, folded, put in inserts, arranged my +paper-route and darted out into the frosty air with the snow crunching +under my feet. How universal some things are. The only difference was +that these boys were dressed in a sort of buccaneer uniform. They had on +high leather boots, and belts around their coats that made them look as +if they had stepped out of a Richard Harding Davis novel. But otherwise +they went through the same processes as an American boy in a small town. + +When the vanguard of villagers had come to inspect us, they at first +tried to talk Russian to us. They had never seen any other kind of +foreigners. They had never seen Americans in this far-off island. + +When daylight came, we started out on a long tramp to the Ainu villages. +They were a mile or two away on the ocean. These people always build +near the sea if they can. Fishing is one of their main sources of food. + +We spent the day in their huts. They live like animals. A big, square +hut covered with rice straw and thatch, with a fence of the same kind of +straw running around the house, forms the residence. The only fire is in +the middle of the only room, and this consists of a pile of wood burning +on a flat stone or piece of metal in the center. There is no chimney in +the roof, and not even an opening such as the American Indians had in +the tops of their tepees. I do not know how they live. The smoke finds +its way gradually through cracks in the walls and roofs. One can hardly +find a single Ainu whose eyes are not ruined. The smoke has done this +damage. + +The only opening in their houses besides the door is one north window, +and it is never closed. In fact, there is no window. It is only an +opening. + +"Why is that? I'd think they would freeze on a day like this," I said to +the guide. + +"They keep it that way all winter, and it gets a good deal below zero +here," he said. + +"But why do they do it?" old Shylock demanded. + +"It is part of their religion. They believe that the god comes in that +window. They want it open, so that he can come in whenever he wishes. It +offends them greatly when you stick your head through that window." + +Pat tried it just to see what would happen, just like a man who looks +into the barrel of a gun, or a man who takes a watch apart, or wants to +hit a "dud" with a hammer just to see whether it is a dud. The result +was bad. There was a sudden series of outlandish yells from the +household. I think that every man, woman and child, including the dogs, +of which there were many, started at once. I wonder now how Pat escaped +alive, and only under the assumption that "the good die young" can I +explain his escape. + +I wanted some arrows to take to America as souvenirs; and, when an old +Indian pulled out a lot of metal arrows on long bows with which he had +killed more than a hundred bears, I was not satisfied. They were not the +kind of arrows I wanted. + +"What kind are you looking for?" I was asked. + +"Flint arrow-heads," I responded. + +"Why, man, these Indians have known the use of metals for five hundred +years. The stone age with them is half a thousand years in the past." + +"Have they a history?" I wanted to know. + +My interpreter, who has much knowledge of these things, having worked +among them for years, said, "All of the Japanese mythology is centered +about the battles that took place when these Indians were driven out of +Japan proper step by step." + +I was surprised to find that they were white people compared with the +Japanese who were their conquerors. There are other marked differences. +The Ainus are broad between the eyes instead of narrow as are the +Japanese. They are rather square-headed like Americans as compared with +the oval of the Japanese face. They do not have markedly slant eyes, and +they are white-skinned. They might feel at home in any place in America. +I have seen many old men at home who look like them, old men with +beards. This came as a distinct surprise to me. + +At each house, just in front of the ever-open window of which I have +spoken, there is a little crude shrine. It is more like a small fence +than anything that I know, a most crude affair made of broken bamboo +poles. Flowers and vines are planted here to beautify this shrine, and +every pole has a bear-skull on it. The more bear-skulls you have, the +safer you are and the more religious you have become. + +Pat was sacrilegious enough to steal a skull in order to get the teeth, +which he wanted as souvenirs. I was chagrined and shocked at Pat's lack +of religious propriety. However, I was enticed into accepting one of the +teeth after Pat had knocked them out and stolen them. + +"How do they worship bears and kill them at the same time?" I queried +the guide. + +"That's a part of the worship. They kill the bear, slowly singing and +chanting as they kill him. They think that the spirit of every bear that +they kill comes into their own souls. That's why they kill so many. That +seventy-year-old rascal over there has killed a hundred. He is a great +man in his tribe." + +"If I was a bear," commented Pat, "I'd rather they wouldn't worship me. +That's a funny way to show reverence to a god. I'd rather be their devil +and live than be their god and die." Pat is sometimes loquacious. "They +dance about the poor old bear as they kill him. One fellow will hurl an +arrow into his side, and then cry out, 'O spirit of the great bear-god, +come enter into me, and make me strong and brave like you! Come, take up +thine abode in my house! Come, be a part of me! Let thy strength and thy +courage be my strength and my courage!'" + +"Then," said the interpreter, "he hurls another arrow into him." + +"And what is Mr. Bear doing all that time?" + +"Mr. Bear is helpless. He is captured first in a trap, and then kept and +fattened for the killing. He is tied to a tree during the killing +ceremony." + +"All I gotta say is that they're darned poor sports," said Flintlock +with indignation. "They're poor sports not to give Mr. Bear a fighting +chance." + +And old Flintlock has voiced the sentiments of the entire party. + +Everybody that was at the Panama Pacific International Exposition will +remember the magnificent statue of an Indian there. This Indian was +riding a horse, and both were worn out and drooping. A spear which +dragged on the ground in front of the pony was further evidence of the +weariness of the horse and rider. The title of this Fraser bronze was +"The End of the Trail," and it was intended to tell the story of a +vanishing race, the American Indians. But even more could that picture +tell the story of the Ainus of Japan. + +"They will be entirely extinct in a quarter of a century," our guide +said. "They are going fast. They used to be vigorous and militant, as +Japanese mythology shows. They were a fighting race. They built their +houses by the sea. They used to go out for miles to fish, but now they +are so petered out that they go only to the mouths of the rivers to +fish. They used to hunt in the mountains, but they do not take +hunting-trips any more. Venereal diseases and rum (saki) have depleted +them year by year, just as in the case of our American Indians. They are +largely sterile now. They used to build their own boats, but they build +no more. It is a biological old age. Their day is through." + +"It is a sad thing to see a race dying out," said Pat. + +"Especially a white race, as these Ainus seem to be," said another +member of the party. + +And back to the village we went silently, plodding through a driving +blizzard that bore in upon us with terrific force. As we fought our way +through this blizzard, I could not help feeling a great sense of +depression. It is a fearful thing to see anything die, especially a race +of human beings. That is a great epic tragedy worthy of a Shakespeare. +That is enough to wring the soul of the gods. That a race has played the +game, has been powerful and conquering and triumphant, and then step by +step has petered out and become weak and senile until biological decay +has set in--that is fearful. + +Another illustration of the ignominious failure of a lower type of mind +to understand a higher type of mind is set forth in the following +letter which was written at my request by a missionary whom I met in San +Francisco just as the final chapters of this book were being written. + +The first time I met this missionary was in Seoul, Korea. + +I have been told so many times that the cruelties in Korea have been +stopped. Certain men said that they had been stopped immediately after +the Independence Movement, but they were not stopped. At frequent +intervals the American press is flooded with statements which come from +Japanese press sources that the outrages in Korea have ceased. + +I said to this missionary, who had just arrived from Korea, "Is it true +that the cruelties have stopped in Korea?" + +"No! They have not stopped! They have not even diminished! They are +getting worse, rather than better!" + +"Would you be willing to write out, in your own handwriting, a few +things that you know yourself which have occurred since I was in Korea +so that the book which I am writing may be accurate and up to date in +its facts?" + +"I will be glad to do that for you! We who are missionaries dare not +speak the truth!" + +"Why?" + +"If we did the Japanese Government would never let us get back to our +people!" + +"Then you may talk through me, if you are willing to do it. I want the +truth to get to the American people!" + +"I am not only willing but I am eager to talk!" said this missionary and +wrote out the following story of cruelty against an educated and +cultured Korean, who was the Religious and Educational Director in the +Seoul Y.M.C.A. This story of the latest Japanese barbarisms I pass on to +the reader in this chapter to illustrate another ignominious Hun failure +to understand that the practices of the Dark Ages will not work in this +century: + + "On May 26th, 1920, just as Mr. Choi was coming out of his + class room he was met by two detectives, one Korean and one + Japanese, who informed him that he was wanted at the Central + Police Station. Here he was turned over to the Chief of Police + and thrown into a room and kept all day. Mr. Brockman and Cynn + both made several attempts to find out why he was arrested. + Each time they were given an evasive answer. Finally Mr. Cynn + insisted that they tell him the cause of the arrest. It was + finally discovered that he was wanted in Pyengyang on certain + charges. He was to leave Seoul that evening on the 11 p.m. + train. Anxious to see how Mr. Choi was being treated, Mr. Cynn + and several of the Y.M.C.A. men went down to the station. Mr. + Choi with the other six students were standing on the platform. + Apparently Mr. Choi was not bound as is the usual custom. + Closer observation, however, revealed the fact that his hands + were bound with cords, but in his case the ropes were placed on + the inside instead of the outside, of the clothes. He arrived + in Pyengyang the next day, May 27, at 5 p.m. Instead of taking + Mr. Choi first they called in one of the students whose name is + Chai Pony Am. After the usual preliminary questions these + inquisitors of the Dark Ages said, 'We know all about you + everything you have done. There is no use for you to deny + anything. You make a clean confession of everything.' Mr. Choi + replied, 'I have done nothing. If I knew what you wanted, I + would tell you.' More pressure was urged in the way of + bombastic speech. Finally the police said, 'If you won't tell + of your own free will we will make you tell!' Then the + tortures, which the Government published broadcast had been + done away with, began. They brought out a round stool with four + legs and laid it down on its side with the sharp legs up and + made him strip naked. Then they took the silken bands (about 2 + in. wide) and placing his hands behind his back until the + shoulder blades touched begun bending the arm from the wrist + very tight. This completed, they made him kneel upon the sharp + edge of the legs of the stool with his shins. Then they took + the bamboo paddle (this is made of two strips of bamboo about 2 + in. wide and 2 ft. long wound with cord) and begun beating him + on the head, face, back, feet and thighs. Every time they + struck him his body would move and the movement cause the shins + to rub on the sharp edges of the stool. To further increase the + pain they took lighted cigarettes and burnt his flesh. This was + continued until the student fainted and fell off. They then + would restore the patient by artificial respiration and when he + refused to confess, continued the torture. This process was + continued for 45 minutes and then the student was put into a + dark cell and kept for three days. Upon the third day he was + again brought before these _just_ policemen and asked if he + were ready to confess. Said they, 'If you do not tell us this + time we will kill you. You see how the waters of the Tai Pong + (the river at Pyengyang) wear smooth these stones. That is what + we do with those who come in here. Many have been killed in + here. Your life is not worth as much as a fly.' He was + tortured in the same manner as before and then put back into + the cell for another three days. This process was continued + every three days for two weeks. + + "When Mr. Choi, the educational director of the Y.M.C.A. was + called in the police said, 'You are an educated gentleman and + we propose to give you the gentleman's treatment. We do not + want to treat you like ordinary men. Now we want you to tell us + what your thoughts have been and are. Make a confession of + anything you have done since March 1st, 1919.' Mr. Choi said, + 'What do you want me to confess? If you will give me a little + time I will write you out something.' This they refused to do + and said, 'Since you refuse to tell us we will make you tell. + We will treat you like all other dogs.' Then they forcibly took + off his clothes, and proceeded to bind him in the same manner + as the previous student. After being bound he was placed on the + stool and beaten. He did not lose his consciousness but fell + off the stool, and then was placed back and the same process + continued. When Mr. Choi fell off the stool the bands on his + arms were loosened and they proceeded to unloosen and rewind + his arms. This time they wound them tighter than before. At the + ends of these bands are brass rings which are placed next to + the flesh and made to press upon the nerves. This time Mr. Choi + said as they wound his right arm he felt a sharp pain and at + once noticed that he had lost the use of his arm. It was + paralyzed. Mr. Choi was tortured five times in all--one every + three days. The first torture lasted one hour and the + succeeding ones were less severe than the first. At the end of + two weeks, June 10th, Mr. Choi and the six students with him + were called before a police captain who said to the students, + 'There is nothing against you. Some bad Korean has testified + falsely against you. We are sorry you have suffered but you can + now go free.' However to Mr. Choi he said, 'You must remain + here a week yet. You are still under police supervision. Go to + ---- hotel and stay.' On June 16th the police came to the hotel + where he was staying and said, 'You may go down to Seoul + tonight.' Mr. Choi arrived in Seoul on the 17th and gave this + testimony. His arm is still paralyzed." + +And so it is that these great failures stand out: the failure of a race +of people to survive; the failure of the American people to estimate the +loss of Shantung at its proper valuation spiritually, and the failure of +Japan to understand that Korea is still and ever shall be _Korea the +Unconquered_; this Korea which I call "The Wild Boar at Bay." + + + + +CHAPTER X + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIENDSHIP + + +We were running down the Samabs River in a small Dutch ship, the +_Merkeus_. This river, running almost parallel to the Equator, and not +more than fifty miles away from that well-known institution, cuts the +western end of Borneo in two, and lends phenomenal fertility to its +soil. + +Shooting around a bend in the river, suddenly there loomed on the +western shores, so close that we could throw a stone and hit it, a tree +that was leafless, dead as a volcanic dump; but its dead branches +literally swarmed with monkeys. The light in the west had so far gone +that they appeared as silent silhouettes against the sunset Their tails, +which seemed to be about three feet long, and were curled at the ends, +hung below the dead branches. One big fellow had perched himself on the +tiptop of the tree, and in the dim light he looked like a human sentinel +as his black outline appeared against the evening light. + +Then came Missionary Worthington's story about Kin Thung, the boy who, +with characteristic Oriental spirit, had quick murder in his heart: + +"It was while I was the head of the Boys' School down in Batavia, Java, +that it happened. One has experiences out here in dealing with youth +that he does not get at home, for it is inflammable material, explosive +to the highest degree." + +I waited for his story to continue as the Dutch ship glided swiftly down +the river toward the South China Sea, and night settled over us as we +sat there on the upper deck, watching the crimson glory change into +sudden purple. + +"I heard a noise and I knew there was a fight on in the dormitory. I had +seen the aftermath of such Malay and Chinese feuds in our schools +before, and I knew that it was no trivial matter, as it often is with +boy fights at home, so I hurried up. + +"When I got there I saw Kin Thung wiping his knife, and the boy he had +been fighting lying on the floor, bleeding from a long wound." + +"What had happened?" + +"Kin Thung was a quick-tempered boy. In addition to that, he was of a +sullen make-up, with, what I call, a criminal tendency in him. That, +added to his already volatile spirit, made him a real problem in the +school. For instance, he was the kind of a boy who, if a teacher called +on him without warning to recite, he would get uncontrollably angry, +turn sullen and refuse to answer." + +"Why didn't you fire him?" I said. + +"That would have been the easy thing to do. I preferred to win him +rather than to fire him!" + +I felt ashamed of myself for my suggestion, and looked out into the +night skies where the beautiful form of the southern cross loomed in the +zenith. + +"No, I didn't fire him." + +"What did you do?" + +"As I was dressing the boy's wound Kin Thung stood looking on, utterly +expressionless and unrepentant, even sullen. + +"I didn't say anything to Kin that night, save to ask him to come to the +office the next day. + +"The other boys were calling out to him as he entered, and I could hear +them through the window, 'I wonder how many strokes of the rattan he +will get?' for that is one of our forms of punishment. + +"He was no doubt wondering himself when he entered, still sullen. + +"I said to him, 'Kin, I could give you as punishment a hundred strokes +of the rattan. I could put you on rice and water for a month, or I could +put you to a room for a week in solitary confinement. But I am not +going to do either or any of them. I am going to pray for you!" + +"'I don't want you to, sir!' he cried in alarm. + +"'Kneel down!' I said to him. + +"'I don't want to.' + +"'Kneel down, I say!' + +"'I won't!' + +"'But this is your punishment. You would submit to the rattan if I +imposed that. You must submit to this!' I said. + +"'I hate prayer!' + +"'Kneel down, boy!' + +"He knelt. I prayed. He wept." + +This was the cryptic way the missionary came to the climax of his story. +Again the Southern Cross shot into view as we turned a curve in the +river. + +"The fountain broke. A boy's heart was won! I didn't have to fire him. I +won him!" + +"That lad came to me two years later as he started out from our school +in Batavia, and said, 'Mr. Worthington, that moment when you called me +into your office was the crucial moment of my life. If you had been +unkind to me then; if you had punished me, even as much as I deserved +it; if you had not been Christ-like, I should have killed you. I had my +knife ready. There was a demon in me! Your kindness, your praying for +me, broke something inside of me. I guess it was my heart. I cried. I +prayed. That morning saved my soul!'" + +"That was a marvelous experience, Mr. Missionary! It was a marvelous way +to meet the situation," I said in a low tone, looking up at the white +outline of the Southern Cross, and remembering two thieves. + +"It was Christ's way!" said the missionary. + +But perhaps the outstanding Flash-light of national Friendship is that +of America for the Philippines. I shall never forget the day we started +southward from winter-bound China for sun-warmed Manila. + +As the great ship swung about in the muddy waters of the Yangsti and +turned southward, the bitter winds of winter were blowing across her +deserted decks. But in two days one felt not only a breath of warm +tropical winds on his face but he also felt a breath of warmer +friendship blowing into his soul as he thought of the Philippines and +America. + +The first breath of warm winds from southern tropical seas gently kissed +one's cheeks that afternoon. It was a soothing breath of romance, +freighted with the scent of tropical trees. It was much of a contrast +with the bitter winter winds that had blown the day before at Shanghai. +There the snow was flying, and woolen suits were greatly needed. + +But to-night men and women alike walk the decks of this Manila-bound +ship. They are all in white. One stands at the bow of the ship, glad to +catch the salt spray on tanned cheeks, glad to feel the sea-touched +winds playing with his hair, glad to see fair women of the Orient tanned +with summer suns; for it is summer in the Philippines, while winter +reigns in China and the rest of the Oriental lands further north. + +Last night we passed the narrow straits leading out of Shanghai harbor +directly south. Two lighthouses blinked through the dusk of evening, the +one to the north in short sharp notes, like a musician of the sea +singing coasts, rapidly beating time. The light to the south seemed to +count four in blinks and then hold its last count like a note of music. +In between the two lighthouses vague, dim, mist-belted mountains of the +China coast loomed through the dusk. + +This morning and all day long we have been sailing past the huge +outlines of mountainous Formosa, that rich island off the coast of +China, between Shanghai and Manila. It looks like some fairly island +with its coves and caves, into which pours the purple sea, visible +through the faint mists of morning and noontime. Its precipitous sides +shoot down to the sea in great bare cliffs, save where, here and there, +a beautiful bay runs in from the southern sea to kiss the green lips of +the land. + +But now the sun is setting. I am watching it from my stateroom window. + + * * * * * + +And now it is the rainy season in the Philippines. + +It doesn't rain in Luzon; it opens up clouds, and oceans suddenly drop +to the land. Lakes and rivers form overnight. Bridges wash out, fields +are inundated, houses by thousands are swept away, and railroad tracks +twisted and played with, as if they were grappled by gigantic fists. + +Men will tell you of the great Typhoon that suddenly dropped out of the +mountains at Baguio, sliced off a few sections of the mountains, rushed +down through the great gorge, and left in its trail the iron ruins of +eight or ten bridges, put in by American engineers, founded on solid +granite; but swept away like playthings of wood, in an hour. + +One night we were driving from Baguio to Manila. + +A storm dropped suddenly out of the nowhere. We had no side curtains on, +and in just three minutes we were soaked to the skin, and dripping +streams of water. The artesian wells along the way were but dribbling +springs compared with us. + +The storm came out of a clear, star-lit sky. Storms come that way in the +Philippines. Only a few minutes before I had been looking up at the +Southern Cross admiring its beauty. I looked again and there was no +Southern Cross. A few great drops of rain fell and then came the deluge. + +Candle lights flickered in innumerable thatched houses where brown and +naked women fluttered about dodging the rain, looking strangely like +great paintings in the night. At the edge of each side porch a Bamboo +ladder reached up from the ground. A fire burned against the rain. This +fire leapt up for two feet. + +One could easily imagine on this stormy night, with every road a river, +every field a flood, and every vacant space a sea, that the thatched +houses raised on Bamboo poles were boats, afloat in a great ocean. The +fires on the back porches looked for all the world like the fires that I +have seen flaring against the night from Japanese fishing boats. + +We had been warm, personal friends since college days, this driver and +I. He had chosen the harder way of the mission fields to spend his life. + +"After all," said he, "that was a dream worth dreaming!" + +"What do you mean?" I asked him, a bit startled. + +"Why the American occupation of these islands; the dream that McKinley +had, of teaching them to govern themselves; and then giving them their +independence; an Imperial Dream such as the world never heard of before; +a dream that, if it has done nothing else, has won for America the +undying friendship of the intelligent Filipino." + +"Right you are, man! But why such a thought at this ungodly hour? I +should think rather that you would be sending out an S. O. S." + +"Dunno! Just flashed over me that that was a dream worth dreaming; and, +by gad, boy, we're seeing it come to pass. Look at those contented +people living in peace and security; their home fires lighted; their +children in school; plenty to eat; not afraid that to-morrow morning +some Friar will sell their home from under them. No wonder they have +given their undying friendship to America!" + +He continued as we sped through the rain. + +"England and Germany sneered at America's dream. Such a dream of +friendship through serving its colony had never been born in any other +national soul from the Genesis of colonization up to this day, save in +the soul of America in the Philippines. We have set the ideals of the +world in many ways but never in a more marked way than this. + +"The Phoenicians were the first colonizers and they swept the +Mediterranean with a policy of exploitation and slavery which was +selfish and sordid. Then came Greece which had some such ideal of +colonization as America. Her ideal was, that colonies, like fruit from a +tree, when ripe, should fall off of the mother tree. Or the ideal of +Greece was that colonizing should come about like the swarming of bees." + +I nodded my head. He went on as we slashed through the muddy ways, "Rome +with her Imperial dream, her army to back it up, failed as have failed +both Germany and Japan; three nations with kindred ideals as to +colonization. + +"Venice was cruel, adventurous and rapacious in her colonizing policy on +the Black Sea and she left a record of exploitations which makes a black +blotch on the world's pages. + +"Modern colonization began with Spain in South America, Mexico and the +Philippines. Spain has nothing over which to boast in that record. The +Dutch in Java, the record of Belgium in the Congo; that of the +Portuguese in the Far East; the French in Africa; the English in India; +Germany in China and Africa, and Japan in Korea, have not been entirely +for the service of the subjected people, for all of these Governments +have gone on the fundamental theory that the colony exists for the +Mother States." + +He paused a moment as we made a cautious way around a big caribou. "Then +came the great dream of America that the Mother State exists for the +benefit of the colony. + +"Elihu Root said, 'We have declared a trust for the benefit of the +people of the Philippine Islands!' + +"President William McKinley said: The government is designed not for +exploitation nor for our own satisfaction, or for the expression of our +theoretical views, but for the happiness, peace and prosperity of the +people of the Philippine Islands.' + +"Ex-President Taft said when he was Governor-General of the Islands: The +chief difference between the English policy and treatment of tropical +peoples and ours, arises from the fact that we are seeking to prepare +them under our guidance for popular self-government. We are attempting +to do this, first by primary and secondary education offered freely to +the Filipino people.' + +"This spirit has won the undying friendship of the Filipino people. True +enough, they will finally want their independence. That is natural, but +there is a deep love for America buried in their hearts because America +has been square with them; has fulfilled her promises; has not +exploited them, but has served them. That is why I call the colonization +policy of America here in the Philippines a dream worth dreaming." My +friend was right. + +"We love America, because America is our friend!" said a humble +fisherman to me one day on the banks of the Pasig. + +"Yes, the United States; it is our own! You are our brothers!" said a +Filipino boy who had been educated in a Mission school. + +"We are no longer our own. We belong to America. You have bought us with +a price! It cost the blood of American soldiers to buy us!" said an old +Filipino, gray with years, but high in the councils of the Government. + + * * * * * + +One night on the Lunetta the Filipino Band was playing. It was a +beautiful evening with a sunset that lifted one into the very skies with +its bewildering glory and ecstasy. I had been sitting there, drinking in +the beautiful music made by the world-famous Constabulary Band, and +watching the quicksilver-like changing colors of the sunset. Then the +band started to play "The Star Spangled Banner." I was so lost in the +sunset and the music that I did not notice. + +I heard a sudden stirring. Brown bodies, half-naked Filipinos all about +me, had leapt to their feet at the playing of our national hymn. +Beautiful Filipino women in their dainty and delicately winged gowns, +bare brown shoulders heaving with pride and friendship, stood +reverently. Filipino soldiers all over the Lunetta stood at attention +facing the flag, the Stars and Stripes waving in the winds from the old +walled city. Side by side with American soldiers who had just returned +from Siberia stood Filipino Constabulary soldiers. Side by side with +well-dressed American children stood half-naked Filipino children at +reverent attention, paying a wholesome respect to the Stars and Stripes +as the old hymn swept across the Lunetta. + +"That is a thrilling thing to see!" I said to a friend. + +"It could not have happened ten years ago! M he replied. + +"Why?" + +"They did not trust us, and they did not love us. They had seen too much +of the selfish colonization policies of Spain. They expected the same +things from America. It did not come. They have been won to us!" + +This warm-hearted friendship is not true either of England's colonies +anywhere in the Orient or of Japan's in Formosa or Korea. It is true +alone in the Philippines. + + * * * * * + +While I was in the Philippines, down in San Fernando, a statue was +erected to a well-known rebel. He was a man who had refused to take the +oath of allegiance to America when we captured the islands. He escaped +and carried on a propaganda against us. But when he died and a request +was made that a statue be erected to his memory, the United States +granted this permission. + +At the dedication of this statue the Governor of this Province said that +he doubted if any nation on the face of the earth, save the United +States, would have permitted the erection of such a statue to a rebel +against that government. "That act will bind our hearts closer to the +heart of the United States!" he said in closing his address. The +thrilling thing about it all was, that his address was met with +prolonged cheering on the part of the thousands of Filipinos who had +gathered for the dedication. + +Another evidence of this beautiful friendship for America is the +painting which adorns the walls of one of the Government buildings in +Manila. It is called "The Welcome to America." It was purchased, paid +for and erected by Filipinos; erected in good will, with laughter in +their souls, and joy in their hearts. + +It was painted by Hidalgo in Paris in 1904. + +High colors; reds, browns, yellows, golds, blues, purples; tell its +story. It adorns the panel at the end of the Senate Chamber of the +Filipino Government. + +It has spirit in it and a great, deep sincerity. + +The central figure is a beautiful woman, symbolic of America. She comes +across the Pacific carrying the gifts of peace, prosperity, security and +love to her colony, the Philippines. + +She carries in one hand the American flag. At her side is Youth bearing +a Harp, symbol of the music that America brings into the souls of the +people whom she comes to serve. Singing angels hover about the scene. + +Above the central figure of America, on angel wings, is a Youth carrying +a lighted torch. To the left is a beautiful brown-skinned Filipino woman +with eyes uplifted to this torch. She bears within her ample bosom the +children of the islands. The torch is symbol of the fact that we are +handing on the light of our Christian civilization to the children of +our colonies. + +I visited this painting many times, but I never visited it that I did +not see many Filipinos, both young and old, standing before it, with +reverent eyes. + +I said to a high official of the Government, "Does that painting +represent the way you Filipinos feel to-day?" + +"Hidalgo has spoken for us. He has voiced our feelings well!" was the +reply. + + * * * * * + +This friendship for the United States is a thrilling thing found all +over the Far East. One finds it in Korea, as well as in the Philippines, +like a burning light of glory. Korea says, "America is our only hope! We +have always trusted and loved America!" + +One finds it like a silver stream running through the life of China. Dr. +Sun Yat Sen said to me in Shanghai: "America has always been China's +staunch friend! America we trust! America we love! America is our hope! +America is our model!" + +Mr. Tang Shao-yi said, "America's hands and those of America alone are +clean in her relations with China. This cannot be said of the other +nations." + +Then he told me a thrilling story of the Boxer Rebellion. He, with two +thousand Chinese, who were Government officials, were barricaded in a +compound behind the usual Chinese walls. The Boxers were firing on them +every day. They had run out of food. In fact, they were starving. + +But one morning a bright-faced American boy appeared at the gates of the +wall. He was admitted because he was an American. He asked to be taken +to Mr. Tang Shao-yi. + +"What do you most need?" this young American asked the rich Chinese +merchant. + +"We most need food," was the reply. + +"All right, I'll get enough for you to-day!" said the young American. + +"That night," said Mr. Tang Shao-yi, "that American boy returned with +five hundred hams which the Boxers had thrown away, in addition to a +thousand sacks of flour which he had gotten from the English legation." + +"Wonderful!" I exclaimed. + +"And that boyish American was----" + +"Who?" I asked with tense interest, for the old man was smiling with a +suggestive Oriental smile, as if he had a climax up his commodious +sleeves. + +"That man was Herbert Hoover!" + +And from that interview henceforth and forever no human being need tell +me that the Chinese have no sense of the dramatic. + +"That's why we love and trust America," said this great Chinese +statesman. "It is because America has always been our friend in time of +need!" + +I found this friendship for the United States true all over the Oriental +world. It was to me a great miracle of national friendship. The peoples +of the Orient trust us. They are not suspicious of our intentions in +spite of what jingo papers say. We have won their hearts. We have +claimed their friendship. + +The name "America," which stands in the Oriental mind for the United +States, is a sacred passport and password. It is a magical word. It +opens doors that are locked to all the rest of the world; it tears down +barriers, century-old, that have been barricading certain places for +ages past. That simple word opens hearts that would open with none +other. + +The eyes of the brown men of the Far East open wide at that word, and a +new light appears in them. This is particularly true in Korea, in China, +in the Malacca Straits, and in the Philippines. + +It is enough to bring a flood of tears to the heart of an American, +lonely for a sight of his own flag, homesick for his native shores, to +see and feel and hear and know the pulse of this friendship for our +country among millions of brown men. + +"It is because we are like you, we Chinese," said Tang Shao-yi. "It is +because we are both Democrats at heart!" + +"It is because you have been our true friends!" said Dr. Sun Yat Sen. + +"It is because your ideals are our ideals; your dreams our dreams and +your friends our friends," said Wu Ting-fang, one of China's greatest +leaders, to me. + +"It is because so many of our young men have been trained in your +American schools, and because so many of us feel that the United States +is our second home. It is because you have sent so many good men and +women to China to help us; to teach us; to live with us; to love us; to +serve us! It is because your missionaries from America have shown the +real heart of the United States to us!" said Mr. Walter Busch, a Chinese +American student who is now editor of the Peking _Leader_. + +But whatever the cause, the glorious fact is enough to: + + "Send a thrill of rapture through the framework of the heart + And warm the inner bein' till the tear drops want to start!" + +But perhaps the highest and holiest Flash-lights of Friendship that one +finds in the Far East is that of the friendship formed by the American +missionaries for the people among whom they are working, and the +friendship that these people give in return. These are holy things. + +The average missionary comes home on his furlough, but before he is home +three months he is homesick to go back to his people. So they come and +go across the seas of the world through the years, weaving like a great +Shuttle of Service the fabric of friendship for themselves and for the +United States. + +This shuttle of service is being woven night and day across the Atlantic +and across the Pacific by great ships bearing missionaries going and +coming; furlough following furlough, after six years of service; term +after term; leaving native land, children, memories; time after time +until death ends that particular thread, crimson, gold, brown or white. +The great Shuttle of Love weaves the fabric of friendship across the +seas as the ships come and go, bearing outbound and homebound +missionaries to foreign fields. + +I am thinking particularly of the Pacific as I write this sketch sitting +in a room overlooking the great harbor of Yokohama where three Japanese +warship lie anchored and two great Pacific liners, one on its way to San +Francisco and another bound for Vancouver. They come and go, these great +ships. A few days ago the _Empress of Asia_ made its twenty-eighth trip +across and it soon will start on its twenty-eighth trip back to +Vancouver again. Some of the ships out of San Francisco have made more +than a hundred trips. So they weave the shuttle back and forward across +this great sea. And never a ship sails this sea that it does not carry +its passenger list of missionaries. Our list was more than half a +hundred. + +As Mr. Forman, in a sympathetic and appreciative article that he has +written for the _Ladies' Home Journal_, says, the common phrase on a +Pacific liner is, "There are two hundred and fifty passengers and +forty-five missionaries on board." Every Pacific passenger list +immediately divides itself into two groups, the missionaries and the +other passengers. + +Then Mr. Forman proceeds to slay those shallow, narrow-minded, often +ignorant and uneducated tourists and business men who dare to speak of +this traveling missionary with derision. Mr. Forman has no particular +interest in missions and he has no particular interest in the Church, +but he started out to investigate this derogatory phrase, "and +forty-five missionaries." + +Mr. Forman starts his article with these striking paragraphs + + "If ever you cross the Pacific you will find the passengers on + the steamer quietly and automatically dividing themselves into + two groups. + + "'How many passengers have we on board?' you may lightly ask + your neighbor. + + "And your neighbor, traveled man no doubt (his twelfth + crossing, he will mention), will smartly reply, with a suave, + man-of-the-world smile: 'A hundred and two passengers and + forty-five missionaries.' + + "After that you will be initiated and you will be mentioning + with an easy grace to some one else that there are on board so + many passengers and so many missionaries. It becomes a part of + the jargon of Pacific crossing." + +But Mr. Forman sees working that Shuttle of Service of which I am +speaking. He sees, as any thinking man sees, as Roosevelt saw, as +Bryan saw, and as Taft saw, that the greatest single influence for +good in the Orient is the missionary. Mr. Forman was incensed at +this careless phrase on the Pacific liners, and he investigated the +work of our missionaries when he was in the Orient, and he came to +the decision that they are worth more to America, even from that +selfish standpoint, than all the ambassadors that we have sent +over, because they are, in their crossing and recrossing, weaving a +Fabric of Friendship between the Orient and the Occident; between +the nations of the East and those of the West; between the white +peoples and the brown peoples; in spite of the diplomatic +differences and yellow newspapers in the United States and Japan. + +Mr. Forman says about his conclusions: + + "I concluded that any one of the large missions in those + Oriental countries accomplished, so far as concerns American + standing and prestige, more than all our diplomatic + representation there put together. I do not believe it to be an + exaggeration to say that for the Orient the missionaries are + perhaps the only useful form of what is called diplomatic + representation." + +And again in the same article he says: + + "One good missionary in the right place, it seemed to me, can + accomplish more than quite a number of ambassadors." + +And again he wonderfully sums up that mission of love in a paragraph +which I think ought to be passed on: + + "But when a missionary establishes a clinic or a hospital, + healing sores and diseases that their own medicine men have + abandoned as hopeless; when he educates boys and girls that + otherwise would have remained in darkness; when, with a + whole-souled enthusiasm, he gives them counsel, aid and service + and he asks nothing in return then the stolid and passive + Chinese or Korean is genuinely impressed. Then America really + becomes in his mind the synonym for kindness and service, and + from mouth to mouth goes abroad the fame of the land that is + aiming to do him good, without any menacing background of + exploitation." + +I talked with one bright-faced, twinkling-eyed, red-blooded, big-framed +missionary who was crossing with his family of a wife and four children. +He had spent fifteen years in the Orient as a missionary, and then +because of illness he had been compelled to go to America. There he had +taken a church and had preached for five years. His health came back, +and as he told me, "The lure of the East got me and I had to come back. +I never was so happy in my life as I am on this trip and the whole +family feels the same way. We are going back to _our people_!" And the +way he pronounced those _italicised_ words made me know that he, too, +was weaving a thread in the Fabric of Friendship. + +We met a woman who was traveling back to China with her three darling +little tots. I made love to all three of them, and it wasn't long before +I asked one where her Daddy was. I assumed, of course, that they had +been home on a furlough and that Daddy was back there in China waiting +anxiously for them to return to him. I pictured that meeting, for I have +seen many such during war days, both on this side and in France. + +"My Daddy is dead," the child said simply with a quiver of her little +lips. + +"All right, dear baby, we won't talk about it then," for I was afraid +that those little trembling lips couldn't hold in much longer. But she +wanted to tell me about it. I soon saw that. She liked to talk about her +"dear dead Daddy." + +"He went to France," she said simply. + +"Ah, he was a soldier?" I questioned. + +"No, he was better than a soldier, my Mamma says. He did not go to kill; +he went to help." And back of that sentiment and that statement I saw a +world of struggle and ideals in a missionary home where the man felt +called across the seas to be "in it" with his country and at last the +refuge of the man who could go "not to kill but to help." + +"He went to work with the coolies and he got the influenza and died last +winter. We won't have any Daddy any more," and her little blue eyes were +misty with tears. And so were mine, more misty than I dared let her see. +And they are misty now as I write about it. And yours will be misty if +you read about it, as they should be. That is something fine in you +being called out. + +Later I met the mother. She told me over again the story that little +Doris had told me of the big Daddy who had felt the call to go to France +in the Y.M.C.A. to help the poor "coolies," several hundred of whom +were, by strange coincidence, going back to China on the same boat with +us, and with that brave mother and those dear children. These "coolies" +were going back alive, but he who went to serve them died. "Others he +saved; Himself he could not save," echoed in my soul as that mother and +I talked. + +"I am going back to the Chinese to spend the rest of my life finishing +Will's work. It is better so. I shall be happier." + +"But the association there--everything--every turn you make--every place +you go--will remind you of him," I protested. + +"It would be what Will would want most of all, that I go on with his +work. I go gladly. It will be the best balm for my sorrow." + +And far above national friendships there loom these snow-white peaks of +the sacrificial friendship the missionaries bear in their hearts for the +people with whom they live, and serve, and die. + + + + +THE END + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + + +Inconsistencies in hyphenation of words preserved. (flash-lights, +flashlights; foot-ball, football; star-lit, starlit; to-day, today; +to-night, tonight) + +Inconsistencies in the spelling and transliteration of non-English words +preserved. (Pyeng Yang, Pyengyang) + +Pg. 25, "bacon" changed to "beacon". (like beacon lights of hope) + +Pg. 26, inserted missing comma. (there to the north," I said) + +Pgs. 79, 101, 145, inserted opening double quote mark to start of direct +speech at top of chapter. + +Pg. 153, "flashng" changed to "flashing" (like flashing piston rods of +steel) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Flash-lights from the Seven Seas, by +William L. 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Stidger + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Flash-lights from the Seven Seas + +Author: William L. Stidger + +Commentator: Bishop Francis J. McConnell + +Release Date: October 14, 2008 [EBook #26924] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLASH-LIGHTS FROM THE SEVEN SEAS *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Lee + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="cover" id="cover"></a> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="381" height="600" alt="Cover" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">FLASH-LIGHTS<br /> +FROM THE SEVEN SEAS</p> +<hr class="hr1" /> +<p class="center">WILLIAM L. STIDGER</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a> +<img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="441" height="600" alt="Temple at Taishan" /> +<div class="cap-vert"> +<p class="caption">MT. TAISHAN, CHINA, SAID TO BE THE OLDEST WORSHIPPING PLACE ON EARTH.</p> +</div></div> + +<hr /> + +<h1>FLASH-LIGHTS<br /> +<small>FROM THE SEVEN SEAS</small></h1> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="title"><b>BY<br /> +<big>WILLIAM L. STIDGER</big><br /> +<small>AUTHOR OF "STANDING ROOM ONLY," "STAR<br /> +DUST FROM THE DUGOUTS," "OUTDOOR<br /> +MEN AND MINDS," ETC.</small></b></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="title"><b>WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY<br /> +<big><span class="smcap">BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL</span></big></b></p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="title"><b>ILLUSTRATED<br /> +FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY<br /> +THE AUTHOR</b></p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + + +<p class="center">NEW <img src="images/logo.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="logo of publisher" /> YORK<br /> +GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY</p> + + +<hr /> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="center"><small>COPYRIGHT, 1921,<br /> +BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY</small></p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p class="center"><small>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</small></p> + +<hr /> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<p class="title">DEDICATED TO<br /> +<big>MARY I. SCOTT</big><br /> +A WOMAN FRIEND<br /> +<small>WHO PUSHED BACK THE HORIZONS OF<br /> +THE WORLD AND LED ME TO THE<br /> +BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL THAT<br /> +HAS NO END: THE TRAIL OF<br /> +DREAMS AND TRAVEL</small> +</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + +<h2>INTRODUCTION<br /> +<span class="smcap"><small>By BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL</small></span></h2> + + +<p>The Rev. William L. Stidger is one of the most thoroughly alive men in +the ministry today. He sees quickly, reacts instantaneously, and knows +how to bring others to a like alertness of mental and spiritual seizure. +If it be said of him that he is impressionistic it must be remembered +that the impressions are made on a mind of sound purpose and +communicated to others for the sake of the truth behind the impression. +His narratives of travel do not belong in the guide-book category or in +that of the scientific geography. But if you wish to know what it would +be like to visit yourself the countries described, the reading of Mr. +Stidger's sketches will help you. If it be said that what one after all +is getting is the Stidger view, it must not be forgotten that the +Stidger view is marvellously vital and enkindling. The Stidger vitality +is bracing and health-giving. It is a tonic for all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span> of us who are +getting a little old and sluggish. The contagion of youth and energy are +in this book: it will reach and stir all who read.</p> + +<p class="sigblock"><span class="smcap">Francis J. McConnell</span></p> + +<p><i>Pittsburgh, Pa.</i></p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> +<h2>FOREWORD</h2> + + +<p>That vast stretch of opal islands; jade continents; sapphire seas of +strange sunsets; mysterious masses of brown-skinned humanity; +brown-eyed, full-breasted, full-lipped and full-hipped women; which we +call the Orient, can only be caught by the photographer's art in +flash-light pictures.</p> + +<p>It is like a photograph taken in the night. It cannot be clear cut. It +cannot have clean outlines. It can only be a blurred mass of humanity +with burdens on their shoulders; humanity bent to the ground; creaking +carts; weary-eyed children and women; moving, moving, moving; like +phantom shadow-shapes; in and out; one great maze through the majestic +ages; one confused history of the ancient past; emerging; but not yet +out into the sunlight!</p> + +<p>Such masses of humanity; such dim, uncertain origins of unfathered +races; these can only be caught and seen as through a glass darkly.</p> + +<p>Paul Hutchinson, my friend, in "The Atlantic Monthly" says of China what +is true of the whole Orient:</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"In this vast stretch of country, with its poor communications, we +can only know in part. When one sets out to generalize he does so +at his own peril. The only consolation is that it is almost +impossible to disprove any statement; for, however fantastical, it +is probably in accord with the facts in some part of the land."</p> +</div> + +<p>The facts, fancies, and fallacies of this book are gleaned from the +rovings and ramblings of a solid year of over fifty-five thousand miles +of travel; through ten separate countries: Japan, Korea, China, the +Philippine Islands, French Indo-China, the Malay States, Borneo, Java, +Sumatra and the Hawaiian Islands; across seven seas: the Pacific Ocean, +the Sea of Japan, the North China Sea, the Yellow Sea, the South China +Sea, the Malacca Straits, and the Sea of Java; after visiting five wild +and primitive tribes: the Ainu Indians of Japan, the Igorrotes of the +Philippines, the Negritos of the same islands; the Dyaks of Borneo, and +the Battaks of Sumatra; face to face by night and day with new races, +new faces, new problems, new aspirations, new ways of doing things, new +ways of living, new evils, new sins, new cruelties, new fears, new +degradations; new hopes, new days, new ways, new nations arising; new +gods, and a new God!</p> + +<p>When one comes back from such a trip, having fortified himself with the +reading of many books written about these far lands, in addition to his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span> +travel, one still has the profound conviction that, after all is said, +done, and thought out, the only honest way to picture these vast +stretches of land and humanity is to confess that all is in motion; like +a great mass of bees in a hive, one on top of the other, busy at +buzzing, buying, selling, living, dying, climbing, achieving; groping in +the dark; moving upward by an unerring instinct toward the light.</p> + +<p>At nights I cannot sleep for thinking about that weird, dim, misty +panorama of fleeting, flashing pictures; those thousands of Javanese +that I saw down in Sourabaya, who have never known what it means to have +a home; who sleep in doorways by night, and along the river banks; where +mothers give birth to children, who in turn live and die out under the +open sky. Nor can I forget that animal-like beggar in Canton who dug +into a gutter for his food; or those hideous beggars, by winter along +the railway in Shantung; or the naked one-year-old child covered with +sores which a beggar woman in the Chinese section of Shanghai held to +her own naked breast. Those pictures and a thousand others abide.</p> + +<p>One has the feeling that if he could go back, again, and again, and +again to these far shores, and live with these peoples and die with +them, then he would begin faintly to understand what it all means and +where it is all headed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span>And this author, for one, is honest in saying that, in spite of careful +investigation, in spite of extensive travel and a sympathetic heart, he +sees but dimly. The very glory of it all, the age of it all, the wonder +of it all, the mysterious beauty and thrill of it all; the thrill of +these masses of humanity, their infinite possibilities for future +greatness; like a great blinding flash of glory, dims one's eyes for a +time.</p> + +<p>But, now, that he has, through quiet meditation and perspective, had a +chance to develop the films of thought, he finds that he has brought +back home pictures that one ought not to keep to one's self; especially +in this day, when, what happens to Asia is so largely to determine what +happens to America.</p> + +<p>So, out of the dark room, where they have been developing for a year, +and out of the dim shadows of that mysterious land whence they came, +they are printed and at the bottom of each picture shall be written the +humble words:</p> + +<p class="center">"Flash-Lights from the Seven Seas"</p> + +<p class="sigblock"><span class="smcap">William L. Stidger.</span></p> + +<p><i>Detroit, Michigan.</i></p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="65%" summary="Table of contents"> + +<tr><td></td><td></td><td class="tocpg"><span class="tiny">PAGE</span></td></tr> + +<tr><td></td><td class="toc">Introduction by Bishop Francis J. McConnell</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_vii">vii</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td></td><td class="toc">Foreword</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_ix">ix</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt" style="padding-top: 0em; padding-bottom: 0em;"><span class="tiny">CHAPTER</span></td><td></td><td></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr" style="padding-top: 0em;">I</td><td class="toc" style="padding-top: 0em;">Flash-Lights of Flame</td><td class="tocpg" style="padding-top: 0em;"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">II</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights Physical</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">III</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Faith</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">IV</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Fear</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">V</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Frightfulness</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">VI</td><td class="toc">Feminine Flash-lights</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">VII</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Fun</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">VIII</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Freedom</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_145">145</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">IX</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Failure</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_165">165</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="tdrt padr">X</td><td class="toc">Flash-Lights of Friendship</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_189">189</a></td></tr> + +</table> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="page_xv" id="page_xv">[xv]</a></span></p> +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="65%" summary="List of Illustrations"> + +<tr><td class="toc">Mt. Taishan, the Oldest Worshipping Place on Earth</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#frontis"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> + +<tr><td></td><td class="tocpg" style="padding-top: 0em; padding-bottom: 0em;"><span class="tiny">PAGE</span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc" style="padding-top: 0em;">The Walled City of Manila</td><td class="tocpg" style="padding-top: 0em;"><a href="#walledcity">48</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Beautiful Filipino Girls</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#filipina">48</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Korean Girls with American Ideals and Training</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#koreangirls">49</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Stepping Aside in Korea</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#stepping">49</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Confucius Tomb at Chufu, China</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#confucius">64</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Ruin of the Ming Tombs</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#ming">64</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Grinding Rice in China</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#rice">65</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Camel Train Entering Peking</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#camel">65</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">The Temple of Heaven, Peking</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#heaven">112</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Beautiful Thirteen-Story Pagoda Near Peking</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#pagoda">112</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Wayside Temple and Shrine</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#shrine">113</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Sunrise Silhouette, Java</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#silhouette">113</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Old Bromo Volcano, Java</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#bromo">128</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Side View of Beautiful Boroboedoer, Java </td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#sideview">128</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">Naked and Otherwise</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#children">129</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="toc">A Dog Market</td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#dog">129</a></td></tr> + +</table> + + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p> +<h1 style="line-height: 1.2; font-size: 140%;">FLASH-LIGHTS<br /> +FROM THE SEVEN SEAS</h1> + +<h2>CHAPTER I<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FLAME</small></h2> + +<p>Fire! Fire! Fire everywhere!</p> + +<p>Fire in the sky, fire on the sea, fire on the ships, fire in the +flowers, fire in the trees of the forest; fire in the Poinsetta bushes +which flash their red flames from every yard and jungle.</p> + +<p>In the tropical lands flowers do not burst into blossom; they burst into +flame. Great bushes of flaming Poinsetta, as large as American lilac +bushes, burst into flame over night in Manila.</p> + +<p>That great tree, as large as an Oak, which they call "The Flame of the +Forest," looks like a tree on fire with flowers. One will roam the world +over and see nothing more beautiful than this great tree which looks +like a massive umbrella of solid flame.</p> + +<p>Every flower in the Orient seems to be a crimson flower. The tropical +heat of the Philippines, Java, Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay States and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +India's far reaches; with beautiful Ceylon, and Burma; seems to give +birth to crimson child-flowers.</p> + +<p>The sunsets burst into bloom, as well as the flowers. There is no region +on earth where sunsets flare into birth and die in a flash-light of +glory and beauty like they do in the regions of the South China Sea. For +months at a stretch, every night, without a break, the most wildly +gorgeous, flaming, flaring, flashing crimson sunsets crown the glory of +the days.</p> + +<p>I have been interested in catching pictures of sunsets all over the +world. I have caught hundreds of sunsets with the Graflex; and other +hundreds have I captured with a Corona, just as they occurred; and I +have never seen a spot on earth where the sunsets were such glorious +outbursts of crimson and golden beauty as across the circling shores of +Manila Bay.</p> + +<p>Night after night I have sat in that ancient city and watched these +tumultuous, tumbling, Turner-like flashes of color.</p> + +<p>One night the sky was flame from sea to zenith across Manila Bay. It was +like a great Flame of the Forest tree in full bloom. Against this sky of +flaming sunset-clouds, hundreds of ships, anchored in the bay, lit their +lesser crimson lights; while, now and then, a battleship which was +signaling to another ship, flashed its message<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> of light against the +fading glow of glory in the crimson sunset.</p> + +<p>"It is light talking unto light; flash unto flash; crimson unto +crimson!" said a friend who sat with me looking out across that +beautiful bay.</p> + +<p>The picture of that flaming sunset, with the great vessels silhouetted +against it; with the little lights on the ships, running in parallel +rows; and the flashing lights of signals from the masts of the +battleship will never die in one's memory.</p> + +<p>It was a quiet, peaceful scene.</p> + +<p>But suddenly, like a mighty volcano a burst of flame swept into the air +at the mouth of the Pasig River. It leapt into the sky and lighted up +the entire harbor in a great conflagration. The little ships stood out, +silhouetted against that great flaming oil tanker.</p> + +<p>"It's a ship on fire!" Otto exclaimed.</p> + +<p>"Let's go and see it!" I added.</p> + +<p>Then we were off for the mouth of the Pasig which was not far away.</p> + +<p>There we saw the most spectacular fire I have ever seen. A great oil +tanker full of Cocoanut-oil had burst into flame, trapping thirty men in +its awful furnace. Its gaunt masts stood out like toppling tree +skeletons from a forest fire against the now deepening might; made vivid +and livid by the bursting flames that leapt higher and higher<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> with each +successive explosion from a tank of gasoline or oil.</p> + +<p>I got out my Graflex and caught several pictures of this flash-light of +flame, but none that will be as vivid, as lurid, or as lasting as the +flash-light that was etched into the film of my memory.</p> + +<p>The next flash-light of flame came bursting out of midnight darkness on +the island of Java.</p> + +<p>We were bound for old Bromo, that giant volcano of Java. We had started +at midnight and it would take us until daylight to reach the +crater-brink of this majestic mountain of fire.</p> + +<p>White flashes of light, leapt from Bromo at frequent intervals all night +long as we traveled on ponies through the tropical jungle trail, upward, +and onward to the brink of that pit of hell.</p> + +<p>White flashes of light leapt from Bromo at the narrow rail. They called +them "Night-Blooming Lilies," and sure enough they blanketed the rugged +pathway that night like so many tiny white Fairies. Indeed there was +something beautifully weird in their white wonder against the night. +They looked like frail, earth-angels playing in the star-light, sending +out a sweet odor which mingled strangely with the odor of sulphur from +the volcano.</p> + +<p>And back of all this was the background of that awful, thundering, +rumbling and grumbling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> volcano as somber as suicide. Strangely weird +flashes lighted the mountains for miles around.</p> + +<p>"It looks like heat lightning back at home," said an American.</p> + +<p>"Only the flashes are more vivid!" said another member of the party.</p> + +<p>Those flashes of light from the inner fires of the earth, bursting from +the fissures of restless volcano Bromo shall ever remain, like some +strange glimpse of a new Inferno.</p> + +<p>Volcanic Merapi, another belching furnace of Java, gave me a picture of +a flash-light of flame.</p> + +<p>The night that we stayed up on the old temple of Boroboedoer, Merapi was +unusually active; and now and then its flashes of flame lighted up the +whole beautiful valley between the temple and the mountain.</p> + +<p>At each flash of fire, the tall Bamboo and Cocoanut trees loomed like +graceful Javanese women in the midst of far-reaching, green, rice +paddies; while two rivers that met below us, wound under that light like +two silver threads in the night.</p> + +<p>Once, when an unusually heavy flash came from Merapi, we saw below us a +beautiful Javanese girl clasped in the arms of her brown lover. Each +seemed to be stark naked as they stood under a Cocoanut tree like Rodin +bronzes.</p> + +<p>It was this beautiful girl's voice that we later<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> heard singing to her +lover a Javanese love song in the tropical night.</p> + +<p>This, I take it, was the Flame of Love; a flame which lights up the +world forever; everywhere her devotees, clothed or naked, are the same; +forever and a day; be it on the streets of Broadway; along the lanes of +the Berkshire Hills of New England; up the rugged trails of the Sierras; +or along the quiet, tree-lined streets of an American village. It is a +flame; this business of love; a flame which, flashing by day and night, +lights the world to a new glory.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>One night the missionaries in Korea saw flames bursting out against the +hills.</p> + +<p>"What is it?" they cried, filled with fear.</p> + +<p>"The Japanese are burning the Korean villages!" said one who knew.</p> + +<p>All night long the villages burned and all night long the people were +murdered. Runners brought news to the hillsides of Seoul where anxious, +broken-hearted American missionaries waited.</p> + +<p>"One, two, three, four, five; ten, fifteen, twenty; thirty, forty, +fifty; a hundred, two hundred, three hundred; villages are burning," so +came the messages.</p> + +<p>The entire peninsula was lighted as with a great holocaust.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>It is said that the light could be seen from Fusan itself, a hundred +miles away.</p> + +<p>"From our village it looked like a light over a great American +steel-mill city," said a missionary to me.</p> + +<p>And when the morning came, the flames were still leaping high against +the crimson sky of dawn.</p> + +<p>For days this burning of villages continued. Belgium never saw more +ruthless flame and fire; set by sterner souls; or harder hearts!</p> + +<p>That was two years ago.</p> + +<p>The villages are charred ruins now. Some of them have never been +rebuilt. The murdered people of these villages have gone back to dust.</p> + +<p>The Japanese think that the fires are out. They thought, when the flames +of those burning villages ceased leaping into the skies; and at last +were but smouldering embers; that the flames had died. But the Japanese +were wrong, for on that very day, the Flames of Freedom began to burn in +Korean hearts and souls! And from that day to this; those flames have +been rising higher and higher. These are Flash-Lights of Flame that, as +the years go by; mount, like beacon lights of hope on Korean hills, to +light the marching dawn of Korean Independence.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>A beautiful Korean custom that used to be; flashes a flame of fire +across the screen of history.</p> + +<p>In the old days the Korean Emperor used to have signals of fire flashed +from hill to hill running clear from the Chinese border to Seoul, the +Korean capital. This signal indicated that all was well along the +borders and that there was no danger of a Chinese invasion from the +north.</p> + +<p>Korea has always been a bone of contention between China, Russia and +Japan. Consequently this little peninsula has always walked on uneasy +paths, which is ever the fate of a buffer state.</p> + +<p>Never did a Korean Emperor go to sleep in peace until he looked out and +saw that the signal fires burned on the beautiful mountain peaks +surrounding the city of Seoul; fires indicating that the borders were +safe that night and that inmates of the palace might rest in peace and +security.</p> + +<p>"It must have been a beautiful sight to have seen the light flashing on +the mountain peak there to the north," I said to an eighty-year old +Korean patriarch.</p> + +<p>"It meant peace for the night," he answered. "It was beautiful. I often +long to see those fires of old burning again on yonder mountain."</p> + +<p>He said this with a dramatic wave of his stately white robed arm.</p> + +<p>"The sunsets still flame from that western<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> mountain peak, overlooking +your city beautiful!" I said with a smile.</p> + +<p>"Yes, the sunsets still flame behind that peak," he responded with a +far-away look in his aged eyes.</p> + +<p>"Perhaps the good Christian God is lighting the fires for you?" I +suggested.</p> + +<p>"Yes, He, the good Christian God; is still lighting the fires for us; +but they are fires of freedom, fires of hope, and fires of Democracy!" +the old man said with a new light in his own flashing eyes.</p> + +<p>"And fires of peace," I added.</p> + +<p>"Yes, fires of Peace when freedom comes!" he responded.</p> + +<p>But whatever the political implications are; it is historically true +that this old custom had existed for years until the Japanese took +possession of Korea and stopped this beautiful tradition.</p> + +<p>But behind that same mountain from which the bonfires used to flash in +the olden days; indicating that the frontiers were safe for the night; +that no enemy hosts were invading the peninsula; behind that mountain +the fires of sunset still flame, flash, flare, and die away in the +somber purple shadows of night.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>Nor shall one forget an evening at Wanju; a hundred miles from Seoul; +sitting in the Mission House looking down into that village of a hundred +thousand souls; watching the fires of evening lighted; watching a +blanket of gray-blue smoke slowly lift over that little village; +watching the great round moon slowly rise above a jutting peak beyond +the village to smile down on that quiet, peaceful scene in mid-December.</p> + +<p>Koreans never light their fires until evening comes and then they light +a fire at one end of the house, under the floor and the smoke and heat +travel the entire length of the house warming the rooms. It is a poor +heat maker but it is a picturesque custom.</p> + +<p>Thousands of flames lighted up the sky that night. The little thatch +houses, and the children in their quaint garbs moving against the flames +composed a strange Oriental Rembrandt picture.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Streets! Streets! Streets!</p> + +<p>Lights! Lights! Lights!</p> + +<p>Somehow streets and lights go together.</p> + +<p>We think of our great Broadway. We smile at our superior ingenuity when +we think of the "Great White Way."</p> + +<p>But for sheer beauty; fascinating, captivating, alluring, beauty; give +me the Ginza in Tokyo on a summer evening; with its millions of +twinkling<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> little lights above the thousands of Oriental shops; with the +sound of bells, the whistle of salesmen, the laughter of beautiful +Japanese girls; the clacking of dainty feet in wooden shoes; and the +indefinable essence of romance that hovers over a street of this +Oriental type at night. I'll stake the romance, and beauty of the Ginza +in Tokyo, against any street in the world. He who has looked upon the +Ginza by night, has a Flash-Light of Flame; of tiny, myriad little +flaming lights; burned into his memory; to live until he sees at last +the lighted streets of Paradise itself.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Nor are the clothes of the Orient without their flaming colors.</p> + +<p>The beautiful kimonos of the Geisha girls of Japan; the crimson, gold, +and rose glory of the Sing Song Girls of China; the flashing reds of the +brown-skinned Spanish belles of the Philippines, as they glide, like +wind-blown Bamboo trees through the streets; and the lurid, livid, robes +which men and women alike wear in Borneo and Java. In fact all of the +clothes of the Orient, are flame-clothes. There are no quiet colors +woven into the gown of the Oriental. The Oriental does not know what +soft browns are. Crimson is the favorite color for man or woman. They +even make their sails red, blue, green and yellow. The beautiful colors +of the sailboats in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> harbor of Yokohama is one of the first flashing +touches of the Orient that a traveler gets. From Japanese Obies, which +clasp the waists of Japanese girls, to Javanese Sarongs, the flame and +flash of crimson predominates in the gowns of both men and women. Where +an American man would blush to be caught in any sort of a gown with +crimson predominating save a necktie, the Japanese gentlemen, the +Filipino, the Malay, and the Javanese all wear high colors most of the +time. And the women are like splendid flaming bushes of fire all the +time.</p> + +<p>A Javanese bride is all flame as far as her dress is concerned. Her face +is powdered; her eyebrows are pencilled a coal black; her arms and +shoulders daubed with a yellow grease. As to her dress, the sarong is a +flaming robe that covers her body to the breasts; red being the dominant +color; with a crown of metal which looks like a beehive on her head. +Brass bracelets and ornaments on her graceful arms complete her costume.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Even the Pagodas and Temples of the Oriental lands are flame.</p> + +<p>The most beautiful Temples of Japan are the Nikko Temples.</p> + +<p>"See Nikko and you have seen Japan" is the saying that is well said.</p> + +<p>But when one has spent weeks or a week, days<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> or a day at Nikko; he +comes away with an impression of beautiful, tall, terraced, +red-lacquered Pagodas; beautiful, graceful red-gowned women; beautiful, +architectural masterpieces of Oriental Temples; all finished in +wonderful red lacquer; beautiful red-cheeked women in the village +stores; beautiful red Kimonos for sale in the Curio shops; red berries +burning against the wonderful green grass; and all set off, against and +under, and crowned by wonderful green rows of great Cryptomaria trees. +These red Temples and these Red Pagodas—red with a red that is flaming +splendor of the last word in the lacquer artist's skill; are like +beautiful crimson jewels set in a setting of emerald.</p> + +<p>And back of all these Flash-Lights of Flame one remembers the path of a +single star on the smooth surface of Manila Bay at night; and the +phosphorescent beauty of Manila Bay where great ships cleave this lake +of fire when the phosphorus is heavy of a Summer night; and every ripple +is a ripple of flame. One remembers the continuous flash of heat +lightning down in Borneo and on Equatorial Seas; and one remembers the +Southern Cross; and the flash-lights of fire in a half-breed woman's +eyes.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS PHYSICAL</small></h2> + + +<p>The red dawn of tropical Java was near. The shadows of night were still +playing from millions of graceful Palm trees which swung gently in the +winds before the dawn.</p> + +<p>Three ancient volcanos, still rumbling in blatant activity, loomed like +gigantic monsters of the underworld, bulging their black shoulders above +the earth. Before us lay a valley of green rice paddies.</p> + +<p>We had roved over ancient Boroboedoer all night, exploring its haunted +crannies and corners, listening to its weird noises; dreaming through +its centuries of age; climbing its seven terraces. But in the +approaching dawn, the one outstanding thrill of the night was that of a +half-naked Javanese girl, who stood for an hour, poised in her brown +beauty on the top of one of the Bells of Buddha, with some weird +Javanese musical instrument, singing to the dawn.</p> + +<p>Then it came.</p> + +<p>"What? Her lover?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>No! The dawn! The dawn was her lover! Or, perhaps her lover was old +Merapi.</p> + +<p>For, there, as we too, climbed to her strategic pinnacle of glory on top +of the Buddha Bell to watch the dawn that she had called up with her +weird music and her subtle brown beauty; before us, stretched thousands +of acres of green rice paddies, spread out like the Emerald lawn of an +Emerald Springtime in Heaven. Below us two silver streams of water met +and wedded, to go on as one.</p> + +<p>As we stood there that morning on the top of Boroboedoer's highest bell, +lines of Edna St. Vincent Millay swung into my soul:</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"All I could see from where I stood<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Was three tall mountains and a wood."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Only in this instance all I could see were three volcanos. And the one +in the center, old Merapi was belching out a trail of black smoke. These +three volcanos, take turns through the centuries. When one is working +the other two rest. When one ceases its activity, one of the others +takes up the thundering anthem and carries it on for a few years or +centuries and then lapses into silence, having done its part. While we +were there it was Merapi's turn to thunder and on this particular +morning Merapi was busy before day-light.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>For fifty miles along the horizon, a trail of black smoke swept like the +trail of black smoke which a train leaves in its wake on a still day. +There was not another cloud in the eastern skies. Nothing but that trail +of black smoke as we stood on the top of Boroboedoer at dawn and +watched.</p> + +<p>Then something happened. It was, as if some magician had waved a magic +wand back of the mountain. The rising sun was the magician. We saw its +heralds spreading out, like great golden fan-ribs with the cone of the +volcano, its direct center of convergence. Then before our astonished, +our utterly bewildered, and our fascinated eyes, that old volcanic cone +was changed to a cone of gold. Then the golden cone commenced to belch +forth golden smoke. And finally the trail of smoke for fifty miles along +the horizon became a trail of golden smoke.</p> + +<p>This was a Flash-Light that literally burned its way into our memories +to remain forever.</p> + +<p>There is another Flash-Light Physical which has to do with another +volcano which I mentioned in the preceding chapter. Bromo is its name. +It is still there, down on the extreme eastern end of Java, unless in +the meantime the old rascal has taken it into his demoniacal head to +blow himself to pieces as he threatened to do the day we lay on our +stomachs, holding on to the earth, with the sides trembling beneath us.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>Old Bromo was well named. It reminds one of Bromo-Seltzer. I had heard +of him long before I reached Java. I had heard of the Sand Plains down +into the midst of whose silver whiteness he was set, like a great +conical gem of dark purple by day and fire by night.</p> + +<p>Travelers said "You must see Bromo! You must see Bromo! If you miss +everything else see Bromo! It's the most completely satisfactory volcano +in the world."</p> + +<p>It was two o'clock in the morning when we started on little rugged +Javanese ponies up Bromo's steep slopes.</p> + +<p>At daybreak we reached the mile high cliff which looks down into the +world-famous Sand Sea. It was a sea of white fog. I have seen the same +thing at the Grand Canyon and in Yosemite looking down from the rims. I +thought of these great American canyons as I looked down into the Bromo +Sand Sea. By noon this was a great ten-mile long valley of silver sand +which glittered in the sunlight like a great silver carpeted ballroom +floor. Tourists from all over the world have thrilled to its strange +beauty. Like the gown of some great and ancient queen this silver cloth +lies there; or like some great silver rug of Oriental weaving it +carpeted that valley floor at noon.</p> + +<p>But at daybreak it was a sea of mist into which it looked as if one +might plunge, naked to the skin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> and wash his soul clean of its tropical +sweat and dirt; a fit swimming pool for the gods of Java, of whom there +are so many.</p> + +<p>Then something happened as we stood looking down into that smooth sea of +white fog, rolling in great billows below us. There was a sudden roar as +if an entire Hindenburg line had let loose with its "Heavies." There was +a sudden and terrific trembling of the earth under our feet which made +us jump back from that precipice in terror.</p> + +<p>Then slowly, as if it were on a great mechanical stage, the perfect cone +of old rumbling Bromo, from which curled a thin wisp of black smoke, +bulged its way out of the center of that sea of white fog, rising +gradually higher and higher as though the stage of the morning had been +set, the play had begun, and unseen stage hands behind the curtain of +fog, with some mighty derrick and tremendous power were lifting a huge +volcano as a stage piece.</p> + +<p>Then came the quick, burning tropical sun, shooting above the eastern +horizon as suddenly as the volcanic cone had been lifted above the fog. +This hot sun burned away the mists in a few minutes and there, +stretching below us, in all its oriental beauty was the sinewy, +voluptuous form of the silver sand sea—Bromo's subtle mistress.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>There is another Physical Flash-light that will never die.</p> + +<p>Coming out of the Singapore Straits one evening at sunset, bound for the +island of Borneo across the South China Sea, I was sitting on the upper +deck of a small Dutch ship. The canvas flapped in the winds. A cool, +tropical breeze fanned our faces. Back of us in our direct wake a +splashing, tumbling, tumultuous tropical sunset flared across the sky. +It was crimson glory. In the direct path of the crimson sun a lighthouse +flashed its blinking eyes like a musical director with his baton beating +time.</p> + +<p>I watched this flashing, lesser, light against the crimson sunset and +was becoming fascinated by it.</p> + +<p>Then great black clouds began to roll down over that crimson background +as if they were huge curtains, rolled down from above, to change the +setting of the western stage for another act.</p> + +<p>But as they rolled they formed strange and beautiful Doric columns +against the crimson skies and before I knew it, I was looking at the +ruins of an old Greek temple in the sky. Then the black clouds formed a +perfect hour-glass reaching from the sea to the sky, with its background +of crimson glory, and the little lighthouse seemed to be flashing off +the minutes in the arteries of that hour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>-glass.</p> + +<p>And then it was night a deep, dense, tropical night; heavy with +darkness; rich with perfume; weird with mystery. But the sunset of +crimson; the Doric temple in ruins; the hour-glass; and the flashing +lighthouse still remained.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>And who shall ever forget the sunsets of gold across Manila Bay night +after night; with great warships and majestic steamers, sleek and +slender cutters, white sails, long reaching docks, and graceful Filipino +women, silhouetted against the gold? And who shall forget the domes, +towers, and pinnacles of the Cathedrals; and the old fort within the +city walls as they too were silhouetted against the gold of the evening?</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Mt. Taishan, the oldest worshiping place on earth, not far from the +birthplace of Confucius; in Shantung; is one of the most sacred shrines +of the Orient. There, countless millions, for hundreds of centuries, +have climbed over six thousand granite steps, up its mile high slope to +pay their vows; to catch a view of the blue sea from its imminence; to +feel the sweep, wonder and glory of its sublime height, knowing that +Confucius himself gloried in this climb. The exaltation of that glorious +view; shall live, side by side, with the view from the top of the Black +Diamond range in Korea one winter's night as we caught<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> the full sweep +of the Japan Sea by sunset. In fact these all shall live as great +mountain top Physical Flash-Lights etched with the acid of a burning +wonder into one's soul!</p> + +<p>Nor shall one ever forget a month's communion with Fujiyama, that +solitary, great and worshiped mountain of Japan; sacred as a shrine; +beautiful with snow; graceful as a Japanese woman's curving cheek; +bronzed by summer; belted with crimson clouds by sunset like a Japanese +woman's Obie. It, too, presented its unforgettable Physical +Flash-Lights.</p> + +<p>The first glimpse was one of untold spun-gold glory. There it stood.</p> + +<p>"There it is! There it is! Look!" a fellow traveler cried.</p> + +<p>"There is what?" I called. We were on top of a great American College +building in Tokyo.</p> + +<p>"It's Fuji!"</p> + +<p>I had given up hope. We had been there two weeks and Fujiyama was not to +be seen. The mists, fogs, and clouds of winter had kept it hidden from +our wistful, wondering, waiting eyes.</p> + +<p>But there it stood, like a naked man, unashamed; proud of its white +form; without a single cloud; burning in the white sunlight. Its huge +shoulders were thrown back as with suppressed strength. Its white chest, +a Walt Whitman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> hairy with age; gray-breasted with snow; bulged out like +some mighty wrestler, challenging the world. No wonder they worship it!</p> + +<p>I had gloried in Fujiyama from many a varied viewpoint. I had caught +this great shrine of Japanese devotion in many of its numberless moods. +I had seen it outlined against a clear-cut morning sunlight, bathed in +the glory of a broadside of light fired from the open muzzle of the sun. +I had seen it shrouded in white clouds; and also with black clouds +breeding a storm, at even-time. I had seen it with a crown of white upon +its brow, and I had seen it with a necklace of white cloud pearls about +its neck.</p> + +<p>Once I saw this great mountain looking like some ominous volcano through +a misty gray winter evening. And one mid-afternoon I saw it almost +circled by a misty rainbow, a sight never to be forgotten on earth or in +heaven by one whose soul considers a banquet of beauty more worth +shouting over than an invitation to feast with a King.</p> + +<p>But the last sight I caught of Fuji was the last night that I was in +Tokyo, as I rode up from the Ginza on New Year's eve out toward Aoyama +Gakuin, straight into a sunset, unsung, unseen by mortal eye.</p> + +<p>Before me loomed the great mountain like a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> monstrous mass of mighty +ebony carved by some delicate and yet gigantic artist's hand.</p> + +<p>I soon discovered where the artist got the ebony from which to carve +this pointed mountain of ebony with its flat top; for far above this +black silhouetted mountain was a mass of ebony clouds that seemed to +spread from the western horizon clear to the rim of the eastern horizon +and beyond into the unseen Sea of Japan in the back yard of the island. +It was from this mass of coal-black midnight-black clouds that the giant +artist carved his ebony Fuji that night.</p> + +<p>But not all was black. Perhaps the giant forged that mountain rather +than carved it, for there was a blazing furnace behind Fuji. And this +furnace was belching fire. It was not crimson. It was not gold. It was +not red. It was fire.</p> + +<p>It was furnace fire. It was a Pittsburgh blast-furnace ten thousand +times as big as all of Pittsburgh itself, belching fire and flames of +sparks. These sparks were flung against the evening skies. Some folks, I +fancy, on that memorable night called them stars; but I know better. +They were giant sparks flung from that blast-furnace which was booming +and roaring behind Fuji. I could not hear it roar; that is true; but I +could feel it roar. I could not hear it because even so great a sound as +that furnace must have been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> making will not travel sixty miles, even +though it was as still up there in the old theological tower as a +country cemetery by winter down in Rhode Island when the snow covers the +graves.</p> + +<p>Then suddenly a flare of fire shot up directly behind the cone of Fuji, +flaming into the coal-bank of clouds above the mountain, as if the old +shaggy seer had forgotten his age and was dreaming of youth again when +the earth was young and he was a volcano.</p> + +<p>Above that streak of fire and mingled with it, black smoke seemed to +pour until it formed a flat cloud of black smoke directly above the +cone, and spread out like a fan across the sky to give the giant artist +further ebony to shape his mountain monument.</p> + +<p>Then Fuji suddenly belched its volcano of color and lava; of rose and +gold, amber, salmon, primrose, sapphire, marigold; and in a stream these +poured over Fuji's sides and down along the ridge-line of the lesser +hills until they too were covered with a layer of molten glory a mile +thick.</p> + +<p>The clouds above Fuji forgot to be black. In fact, their mood of +sullenness departed as by magic, and a smile swept over their massive +mood of moroseness, and glory swept the skies. It was as if that furnace +behind Fuji had suddenly burst, throwing its molten fire over the hills, +the mountains, the sky, the world.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>And "mine eyes" had "seen the glory of the coming of the Lord." And that +was enough for any man for one lifetime.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Then there is beautiful Boroboedoer down in Java. It is a Physical +Flash-Light that looms with its huge and mysterious historical +architectural beauty like some remnant of the age when the gods of +Greece roamed the earth. A sunrise from its pinnacled height I have +already described, but the temple itself is unforgettable. There is +nothing like it on the earth.</p> + +<p>Boroboedoer is one of the wonders of the world, although little known. +It is in the general shape of the pyramid of Egypt, but more beautiful. +One writer says, "Boroboedoer represents more human labor and artistic +skill than the great pyramids." Mr. Alfred Russel Wallace says: "The +human labor and skill expended on Boroboedoer is so great that the labor +expended on the great pyramid sinks into significance beside it."</p> + +<p>Boroboedoer was built in the seventh century A.D., by the Javanese under +Hindu culture. Then came the Mohammedan invasion, destroying all such +works of art in its pathway.</p> + +<p>It is said that the priests so loved this beautiful Buddha temple that +they covered it over with earth and then planted trees and tropical +vegetation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> on it. In six months it was so overgrown that it looked like +a hill. This is one explanation of why it lay for a thousand years +unknown.</p> + +<p>The volcanic ashes undoubtedly helped in this secretion, for old Merapi +even now belches its ashes, rocks and dust out over the beautiful valley +down upon which Merapi looks.</p> + +<p>From Djodjakarta you go to the temples.</p> + +<p>This great temple has, instead of the plain surfaces of the great +pyramid, one mile of beautifully carved decorations, with 2141 separate +panels depicting the life of Buddha from the time he descended from the +skies until he arrived at Nirvana, or perfect isolation from the world. +A history of more than a thousand years is told in its stone tablets by +the sculptor's chisel, told beautifully, told enduringly, told +magnificently.</p> + +<p>One writer says: "This temple is the work of a master-builder whose +illuminated brain conceived the idea of this temple wherein he writes in +sculpture the history of a religion."</p> + +<p>And again one says architecturally speaking of it:</p> + +<p>"It is a polygonous pyramid of dark trachyte, with gray cupulas on +jutting walls and projecting cornices, a forest of pinnacles."</p> + +<p>There are four ledges to this hill temple and above each ledge or stone +path are rows of Buddhas hidden in great 5-foot stone bells, and at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +top crowning the temple a great 50-foot bell in which Buddha is +completely hidden from the world, symbol of the desired Nirvana that all +Buddhists seek.</p> + +<p>Mysterious with weird echoes of a past age it stands, silhouetted +against a flaming sky to-night as I see it for the first time. It is +late evening and all day long we have been climbing the ancient ruins of +that magnificent age of Hindu culture on the island of Java. This temple +of Boroboedoer was to be the climax of the day, and surely it is all of +that.</p> + +<p>The fire dies out of the sky. The seven terraces of the stone temple +begin to blur into one great and beautiful pyramid. Only the innumerable +stone bells stand out against the starlit night; stone bells with the +little peepholes in them, through which the stolid countenances and the +stone eyes of many Buddhas, in calm repose, look out upon the four +points of the compass.</p> + +<p>Night has fallen. We have seen the great Temple by crimson sunset and +now we shall see it by night.</p> + +<p>The shadows seem to wrap its two thousand exquisite carvings, and its +Bells of Buddha in loving and warm tropical embrace. But no warmer, is +the embrace of the shadows about the Temple than the naked embrace of a +score of Javanese boys who hold to their hearts naked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> Javanese beauties +who sit along the terraces looking into the skies of night utterly +oblivious to the passing of time or of the presence of curious American +strangers.</p> + +<p>Love is such a natural thing to these Javanese equatorial brown brawn +and beauties that unabashed they lie, on Buddha's silent bells, breast +to breast, cheek to cheek, and limb to limb; as if they have swooned +away in the warmth of the tropical night.</p> + +<p>The Southern Cross looks down upon lover and tourist as we all +foregather on the topmost terrace of that gigantic shadow-pyramid of +granite.</p> + +<p>The sound of the innumerable naked footsteps of all past ages seems to +patter along the stone terraces. Now and then the twang of the Javanese +angklong and the beautiful notes of a flute sweep sweetly into the +shadowed air.</p> + +<p>Then comes the dancing of a half dozen Javanese dancing girls, naked to +the waist, their crimson and yellow sarongs flying in the winds of +night, as, in slow, graceful movements, facing one of the Bells of +Buddha they pay their vows and offer their bodies and their souls to +Buddha; and evidently, also to the Javanese youths who accompany them in +their dances.</p> + +<p>The sound of the voices of these Javanese girls—who in the shadows look +for all the world like figures that Rodin might have dreamed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>—mingling +their laughter with the weird music; shall linger long in one's memory +of beautiful things.</p> + +<p>Their very nakedness seemed to fit in with the spirit of the night; a +spirit of complete abandonment to beauty and worship. In their attitudes +there seemed to be a mingling of religion and earthly passion; but it +was so touched with reverence that we felt no shock to our American +sensibilities.</p> + +<p>All night long we wandered about the terraces of the old Temple.</p> + +<p>We wondered how long the Javanese girls would remain.</p> + +<p>At dawn when we arose to see Boroboedoer by daylight they were still +there as fresh as the dawn itself in their brown beauty, the dew of +night glistening in their black hair and wetting their full breasts.</p> + +<p>And across, from Boroboedoer the sun, in its dawning splendor, was +transforming belching and rumbling old volcanic Merapi into a cone of +gold.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="walledcity" id="walledcity"></a> +<img src="images/048a.jpg" width="600" height="413" alt="Manila city walls" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">LOOKING OVER THE WALLED CITY OF MANILA, AMERICAN SOLDIERS +SCALED THIS WALL A FEW YEARS AGO TO STAY.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="filipina" id="filipina"></a> +<img src="images/048b.jpg" width="600" height="451" alt="Filipino Girls" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">BEAUTIFUL FILIPINO GIRLS ALL OF WHOM SPEAK ENGLISH.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="koreangirls" id="koreangirls"></a> +<img src="images/049a.jpg" width="600" height="407" alt="Korean Girls" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">KOREAN GIRLS WITH AMERICAN IDEALS AND TRAINING.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="stepping" id="stepping"></a> +<img src="images/049b.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="Korean peasant and ox" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">STEPPING ASIDE IN KOREA TO LET THE AMERICAN DEVIL WAGON +GO BY.</p> +</div></div> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAITH</small></h2> + +<p>He was an old man; gray-haired, gray-bearded; gray-gowned; and he knew +that the Japanese Gendarmes would just as soon take his life as light a +cigarette. They do each with inhumane impunity. One means as much to +them as the other.</p> + +<p>He was under arrest for conspiracy in the Independence Movement.</p> + +<p>"Do you know about the Independence Movement?" he was asked.</p> + +<p>"Yes, I know all about it," was his fearless reply; though he knew that +that reply in itself might mean his death; even without trial or further +evidence. Just the fact that he had admitted that he knew anything at +all about the movement was enough to throw him into prison. He was like +an old Prophet in his demeanor. Something about the very dignity and +sublime Faith of the man awed the souls of these crude barbarians from +the Island Empire.</p> + +<p>"Since when was it begun?" asked the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>Gendarmes.</p> + +<p>"Since ten years ago when you Japanese first came to Korea," was the +dignified reply.</p> + +<p>"From whence did it spring?" he was asked next.</p> + +<p>"From the hearts of twenty million people!"</p> + +<p>"Did twenty millions of people all get together then, and plan?"</p> + +<p>"Not together in body but in spirit!"</p> + +<p>"But there must have been some men to start it?" the Japanese Gendarme +said.</p> + +<p>"They all started it!" was the old man's reply.</p> + +<p>"Is there no one who had charge of this movement from the beginning?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, there is one!"</p> + +<p>"Do you know him?"</p> + +<p>"I know him well!"</p> + +<p>"What is his name?"</p> + +<p>"His name is God!" said this seventy-year old, fearless Christian Korean +Patriot.</p> + +<p>Such faith as I have indicated in the paragraphs above is a common thing +in Korea. Never in the history of the world have Christian people been +subjected to the same tortures, the same cruelties, the same terrors, +for their Faith as the early Christian martyrs; save these; the Koreans.</p> + +<p>We had thought that the world had gotten past that day when men would be +tortured, crushed, persecuted, and killed because they were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> Christians +but that day is not yet past as almost any American Missionary in Korea +will testify.</p> + +<p>The Japanese officials will say that there is no persecution because of +Christianity; but missionaries in Korea know better. They will point to +countless incidents when men, women and children have been hounded, and +persecuted for no other reason than that they were Christians.</p> + +<p>"And when Jesus heard it, He marveled greatly and said to them that +followed, Verily I say unto you I have not found so great faith, no, not +in Israel!" might well be said of the Korean Christians every hour, +every minute, every second. They know what it means to die for their +Faith.</p> + +<p>The story of Pak Suk Han is one of the most thrilling illustrations of +Faith that I have ever heard in Oriental lands. He had been a Christian +since he was seven years of age. He was a brilliant speaker and the +Assistant Pastor of the First Methodist Church at Pyeng Yang, where, +even the non-Christians loved him. He was arrested on Independence Day +and sent to prison where a barbarous Japanese officer, whom the natives +called "The Brute" kicked him in the side because he would not give up +his Christ. From that kick and further inhuman treatment running over a +period of six months; a disease developed which a most reliable +missionary doctor told me ended Pak Suk Han's life.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>When he knew that he was about to die he said, "I have been a Christian +and have served the church since I was seven years old. I have given my +life to Christ, all but the last six months in prison which I have given +to my country. I have no regrets. I might have lived had I been willing +to deny my nation's rights and give up my Christ. I am going home to my +Father's house. Good-by!" No Christian martyrs in the early centuries of +the persecutions by Rome ever died with greater glory in their souls; or +with deeper Faith!</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>The temperature was zero.</p> + +<p>The cold had swept down over night from the Siberian and Manchurian +plains across the city of Seoul. The capital city of Korea was shivering +with cold. But it was vibrant with something else. It was vibrant with a +great sense of something impending.</p> + +<p>There were those who said that the restlessness in the souls of the +Koreans had died down with the terrible days of the March Independence +Movement; but I knew that the faith of the people was deeper than that. +I knew that the flame of faith was just smouldering.</p> + +<p>I sensed this from the conversation of old-time missionaries who had +been in Korea from the very beginning. I sensed it in the conversation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +of young Koreans who had graduated from American schools. It was there; +a vibrant, living, pulsing, faith in God and in the justice of their +hopes: the Independence of Korea.</p> + +<p>The whole thing was summed up for me in a flash. It was a flash of the +light of a tremendous faith that blinded mine eyes for a day; but my +soul it lighted as with a great eternal light.</p> + +<p>A Korean boy stepped into the home of a missionary friend of mine, whose +name I dare not use. If I did he would likely be sent home by the +Japanese. Men have been sent home for less.</p> + +<p>The snow crunched under his feet as he walked up across the yard and the +porch. He knocked at the door.</p> + +<p>"Come in," said the missionary, kindly.</p> + +<p>The boy stepped in. The missionary had never seen him before. The boy +was moved deeply as with a great emotion. He seemed to have carried into +that quiet missionary home with him some of the tenseness of the outside +air and some of the tenseness of the political situation.</p> + +<p>"What do you want?" asked the missionary.</p> + +<p>"I want to talk with you about something very important," he replied in +Korean.</p> + +<p>"All right! Go ahead! Do not be afraid. I am your friend!"</p> + +<p>"So I know. All missionaries are our friends."</p> + +<p>"Then you need not be afraid to talk."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>"No!" said the boy. But he did not talk. His agitation was growing more +marked.</p> + +<p>"Go on, my boy! Tell me what you came for."</p> + +<p>The Korean boy looked at the half open door which led into the kitchen. +The missionary, without a word, stepped over and closed that door, +because he understood.</p> + +<p>The boy himself closed a door which led into the missionary's study. For +in Korea in these days no home; not even a missionary's home, is free +from spies.</p> + +<p>The boy started to talk hurriedly. The missionary soon saw that he was +not talking about the thing that he had come for.</p> + +<p>"Come to the point! Come to the point! You did not come to me, in such +secrecy, to talk commonplace things like that!" said the missionary a +bit sharply.</p> + +<p>Then the boy suddenly dropped to his knees behind the missionary's desk +and whipped out a big knife. Then he took from his white gown a long +piece of white cloth. This he laid out on the floor. Then he opened his +sharp knife with a quick motion and before the missionary knew it, he +had ripped the index finger of his right hand, from, the tip to the +palm, clear to the bone, until the blood spurted all over the floor.</p> + +<p>"What are you doing, my boy?" cried the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>missionary.</p> + +<p>The boy smiled a sublime smile and then knelt on his knees over the +white cloth and before the missionary's tear-misty eyes wrote across the +immaculate cloth in his own blood the words: "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei! +Korean Independence Forever! Self-determination!"</p> + +<p>Then underneath these words in a few swift strokes in his own blood he +drew a picture of the Korean flag. And as he drew, now and then the +blood would not flow fast enough; and he took his knife, as one primes a +fountain pen; and cut a bit deeper to open new veins in order that the +flag of his country and the declaration of his faith might be written in +the deepest colors that his own veins could furnish.</p> + +<p>Finally, after what seemed hours he jumped to his feet and handed the +missionary that flag; crying as he did so: "That is our faith! That is +the way we Koreans feel! You are going back to America! We want America +to know that our faith in the Independence of Korea has not died! The +fire burns higher to-day than ever. The Japanese cruelties are worse! +The need is greater! The oppression is more terrible! Our determination +is deeper than ever before! I have come here this day, knowing that you +are going back to America; I came to write these words in my own blood +that you may know; and that America may know; that our faith is a flame +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>which burns out like the beacon lights on the Korean hills, never to +die!"</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>The most scintillating Flash-light of Faith that I saw in the Orient was +in the Philippine Islands. We were traveling the jungle trail to visit a +tribe of naked Negritos. These are diminutive people who look like +American negroes only they are much smaller; much more underfed, and who +live in trees very much like the Orangutans of Borneo. They eat roots +and nuts. They hunt with bows and arrows.</p> + +<p>They are the lowest tribe in mentality on the Islands.</p> + +<p>It was a terribly hot, tropical day and I had a sunstroke on the way up +the mountainside to this Negrito village.</p> + +<p>I did not expect to get back alive.</p> + +<p>For three solid hours under a killing tropical sun, without the proper +cork helmet and protection, a pile driver kept hammering down on my +head. I felt it at every step I took. Finally I dropped unconscious on +the trail. After several hours I was able to proceed to the top of the +mountain, where the Negritos were camped.</p> + +<p>We got there about two o'clock and had lunch. As we ate about fifty +Negritos swarmed about us.</p> + +<p>They were a horrible looking crowd; stark<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> naked, filthy with dirt; +starved to skin and bones; and animal-like in every look and move.</p> + +<p>I was so sick that I was not able to eat the lunch which had been +provided in baskets. I lay on my back trying to get back my strength.</p> + +<p>As the rest of the expedition ate, the Negritos with hungry eyes, +crowded closer.</p> + +<p>One hideous old man was in the forefront of the natives. He was so +hideous looking that he was sickeningly repulsive to me as I looked at +him crouched as he was like an animal with a streak of sunlight playing +on his face.</p> + +<p>This streak of sunlight, with ruthless severity, made the ugly scabs of +dirt stand out on his old wrinkled face. That face had not felt the +touch of water in years. His whole body was covered with dirt and sores. +Wherever the sunlight struck on that black body it revealed scales like +those on a mangy dog. His body was also covered with gray hairs matted +into the dirt.</p> + +<p>"That old codger represents the nearest thing to an animal that the +human being can reach," said McLaughlin, one of the oldest missionaries +on the island.</p> + +<p>"You're right!" I said. "He looks as much like a Borneo Orangutan as any +human being I ever saw."</p> + +<p>"And he lives like one, too; up in a tree in a nest of matted limbs and +grass," said another.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>"I've traveled among the wild tribes of the world all my life and I have +seen the lowest human beings on earth; in Africa, South America, +Malaysia, Borneo, Java—Australia—everywhere," said a widely traveled +man in the crowd, "and I never saw a type as low in the scale as that +old fellow!"</p> + +<p>So we discussed him as the lunch proceeded. He did not know, of course, +that we had consigned him to the lowest rung on the ladder of humanity, +so he just sat looking at us with his animal-like eyes as we ate; and at +me as I lay under a tree trying to recover my strength for the trip +back.</p> + +<p>"He is not a human being!" added a philosopher in the crowd. "He is +lower than that stage. He doesn't seem to have a single spark of +humanity left in him!"</p> + +<p>Then the meal over; the missionaries started to hand out what was left +of the food to these starving Negritos. The old man whom we had decided +was the lowest type of a human being on earth seemed, after all, to be +the leader of the tribe; no doubt because of his age; perhaps because of +something else which we were later to discover.</p> + +<p>McLaughlin handed out a sandwich to the old man.</p> + +<p>"Did he eat it himself?"</p> + +<p>"He did not! He handed it to a child near by."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>McLaughlin handed out another sandwich which was left.</p> + +<p>"Did the old man, whom we had decided was more of an animal than a human +being, eat that one?"</p> + +<p>"He did not. He took it over behind a tree where another old man was +timidly hiding and gave it to him."</p> + +<p>McLaughlin handed out another sandwich.</p> + +<p>"Did the old man eat that one?"</p> + +<p>"He did not. He took it over and gave it to an old woman near by."</p> + +<p>And so it continued, until every last piece of food was disposed of. +That old man; whom we had decided was an animal; saw to it, that every +man, woman, and child in that crowd was fed before he took a single bite +himself.</p> + +<p>Then he suddenly disappeared. In half an hour he came back with an +armful of great, broad, palm leaves. He spread these out on the ground +in the shade of a tree; did this old man; this hideous looking monster; +and then motioned for me to lie down on the bed he had made for me. He +saw that I was sick.</p> + +<p>Then he disappeared once again, and when he returned he was carrying a +long Bamboo-tube full of clear, cool water which he had gotten from a +mountain spring. He brought it to where I was lying on the bed he had +made for me and with this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> water he cooled my fevered, burning head; and +from this water he gave me to drink; he whom we had decided was the +lowest type of a human being on earth.</p> + +<p>And I am writing here to say; that I have never seen a "cup of cold +water given in His name" that was given with a higher, or a deeper sense +of the Divine spark of God in humanity than I saw that tropical summer +afternoon, and this water was given by the naked Negrito whom we had +decided was the lowest human being on the earth. Yet even in this +animal-man; even in this naked savage; there was a spark of the Divine +that made us forever have a deeper and a more abiding faith that God +never did and never shall make a man to live on this old earth that He +did not have some purpose in making him.</p> + +<p>A few days before I took this trip up into the jungles of Luzon to visit +this Negrito tribe I had received a copy of a slender volume of poems by +Edna St. Vincent Millay. In the cool beauty of the tropical evening +preceding this trip I had read the last lines of its introductory poem +called "Interim"; and these lines came flashing into my mind, even as I +lay on the hot earth on that Luzon hillside. I can still remember the +honey dripping like rain from the Cocoanut trees, and I can still hear +the ceaseless and maddening cry of millions of Locusts that hot day; but +suddenly came this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> beautiful outpouring of faith from, the cool depths +of a woman's woodland soul:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Not Truth but Faith, it is<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That keeps the world alive! If, all at once<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Faith were to slacken,—that unconscious faith<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which must, I know, yet be the corner-stone<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of all believing—birds now flying fearless<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Across would drop in terror to the earth;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fishes would drown; and the all-governing reins<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Would tangle in the frantic hands of God<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the worlds gallop headlong to destruction!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>That day bred new faith into my soul!</p> + +<p>I have told this story of the naked Negrito a hundred times since that +eventful day and it kindles new flames of faith in human hearts every +time it is repeated! Mr. Edmund Vance Cooke, the poet, heard it in +Cleveland where I spoke in a Chautauqua programme and he said to me +several months later in my home at Detroit, Michigan, "That was the most +thrilling story of the Divine spark in a savage soul that I have ever +heard! It gave me new faith in God and in humanity!"</p> + +<p>These, and a thousand other Flashlights of Faith come flashing out of +that Far Eastern background; the sublime faith of thousands of college +men and women who are giving their lives because they believe that +savages and barbarians, such as I have described in this Negrito; Do +have that spark of the Divine in their souls; faith that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> Christian +civilization, and Christian education; and a Christian God, may awaken +that spark.</p> + +<p>And, indeed many a proof do they have of this miracle! Only the other +day from an American School, a girl from darkest Africa graduated as a +Phi Beta Kappa honor scholar. Bishop William A. Taylor picked up this +girl as a naked child in the jungles of Africa less than a quarter of a +century ago!</p> + + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FEAR</small></h2> + + +<p>Quick, short, sharp signals shot down the speaking tube from the bridge.</p> + +<p>The Chief Engineer of the <i>Santa Cruz</i> yelled across the boiler room.</p> + +<p>The bell rang for reverse and the entire ship shivered.</p> + +<p>A woman on deck screamed, and there was a rush to the railings, for the +old boat had been slowly making its way up the winding, treacherous +Saigon River out of the China Sea into French Indo-China.</p> + +<p>"Those damned Chinks again, trying to escape the Devil!"</p> + +<p>"What's the matter, Pop?" some one asked the captain.</p> + +<p>"That sampan full of Chinks was trying to get away from the River Devil, +so they shot across our bow to fool him and we nearly ran them down."</p> + +<p>"Do they often indulge in that little friendly game with the Devil?" I +asked him, smiling at his seriousness.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>"Every time we enter one of these rivers they do it. I killed six of +them going up the river at Shanghai a year ago. It gives me the creeps +every time I see them shoot across our bow. A ship like this will cut +'em in two like a knife!"</p> + +<p>We looked over the green railing of the <i>Santa Cruz</i>. The big ship had +almost come to a stop for the engines were still in reverse and the +shallow river mud was churned up until the otherwise clear water looked +like a muddy pond. The little sampan, full of grinning, naked Chinese +coolies was fifty feet away from us, and our American sailors were +swearing at them in every language they knew and shaking big, brawny, +brown fists in their grinning direction.</p> + +<p>It was considered a joke by the passengers but it was a very real thing +to these poor ignorant Chinese. One sees this happen everywhere in the +Orient. For the Chinaman starts out every morning in his sampan with the +worst kind of a River Devil after him. He must rid himself of that +Devil. So, when a big ship comes into sight, he waits until its bow is +very close and then darts in front of its pathway. The idea is, that +when a sampan full of Chinamen shoots in front of a big ship the Devil +is supposed to follow the ship all that day, and let the Chinese junk or +sampan alone.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="confucius" id="confucius"></a> +<img src="images/064a.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Tomb of Confucius" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">CONFUCIUS' TOMB AT CHUFU, CHINA.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="ming" id="ming"></a> +<img src="images/064b.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="Ming Tombs" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">RUIN OF THE MING TOMBS.</p> +<p class="captionblockquot">The turtle, the symbol of long life, is almost as common in China as the +dragon.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="rice" id="rice"></a> +<img src="images/065a.jpg" width="600" height="416" alt="Peasant grinding rice" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">GRINDING RICE IN CHINA.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="camel" id="camel"></a> +<img src="images/065b.jpg" width="600" height="410" alt="A camel caravan" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">A CAMEL TRAIN FROM THE PLAINS OF MONGOLIA ENTERS PEKING +ON A WINTER'S DAY. +</p> +</div></div> + +<p>It is the pest of an American seaman's life, for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>even a seaman hates to +see a human being drowned.</p> + +<p>To an American mind this seems ridiculous. It even seems humorous. I +shall never forget how the passengers laughed when the captain told them +why he had had to reverse his engines to keep from crushing the frail +Chinese sampan. But suddenly the thought came to one of the passengers; +that to the poor Chinaman the fear which made him do that foolish thing +and the fear which made him take that awful risk was very real.</p> + +<p>"Under God, the poor Devils must have an awful life if they have such a +fear as that in their souls day and night!" said an Englishman.</p> + +<p>"They never start out for a day's work that they are not haunted every +minute of that day by a thousand devils, ill-omens, and bad spirits +which are constantly hovering about to leap on them and kill them!" said +a missionary. "The whole Orient is full of the thought of fear!"</p> + +<p>This missionary was right. Paul Hutchinson, Editor of the <i>Chinese +Christian Advocate</i> and one of the real literary men of the Americans +who are permanent residents of Shanghai, told me of a Chinese boy who +was graduating from a Christian College in Nanking. The boy had been for +four years under the influence of Americans. He could speak good +English. He was about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> ready to go to America to school when he had +completed his work at Nanking.</p> + +<p>He, with a younger brother, was at home for the Christmas vacation. On +the way back to college the younger brother fell overboard into the +river. The older brother was not a coward. Everybody will testify to +that. In fact he was unusually courageous. But in spite of the fact that +his puny brother was able to swim to the side of the small boat, and in +spite of the fact that he begged his older and stronger brother to pull +him back into the boat, that older brother refused to do so.</p> + +<p>"Why?"</p> + +<p>Mr. Hutchinson says that the English teacher heard the tale in terror, +but that the brother took it as a matter of course, explaining that the +River Devil would most certainly have caught and dragged into the water, +any person who should have dared to attempt a rescue of his brother.</p> + +<p>It is an established thing in China; that if a native falls into the +river, he never gets out unless he pulls himself out. Nobody will help +him, for if they do, that will incur the wrath of the River God and the +rescuer also will be dragged down to his death.</p> + +<p>It is assumed that if a person falls into the river that is the River +God pulling him in.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>The constant fear of this River God is so deeply intrenched in these +poor souls that they take no pleasure on the water and they carry their +sense of fear to such an extent that they will not even attempt a rescue +of their own babies or loved ones if these happen to fall into the +water.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hutchinson calls attention to Dr. E. D. Soper's book "The Faiths of +Mankind" in which there is an entire chapter called "Where Fear Holds +Sway."</p> + +<p>"Where is it that fear holds sway?" the reader asks.</p> + +<p>The answer is, "In the Orient"!</p> + +<p>Yes, the whole Orient is one great gallery of dim, uncertain, weird, +mysterious Flash-lights of Fear.</p> + +<p>Paul Hutchinson says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It is impossible for the Westerner to conceive such an atmosphere +until he has lived in it. In fact he may live in it for years and +never realize the hold which it has upon his native neighbors. But +it is no exaggeration to say that, to the average Chinese, the air +is peopled with countless spirits, most of them malignant, all +attempting to do him harm. Even a catalogue of the devils, such as +have been named by the scholarly Jesuit, Father Dore, is too long +for the limits of this article. But there they are, millions of +them. They hover around every motion of every waking hour, and they +enter the sanctity of sleep. An intricate system of +circumnavigating them, that makes the streets twist in a fashion to +daze Boston's legendary cow and puts walls in front of doors to +belie the hospitality within, runs through the social order."</p></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>This fear is even expressed in Chinese architecture.</p> + +<p>"Why is that strange wall built in front of every household door and +even before the Temples?" I asked a friend in China.</p> + +<p>"It is put there to fool the devils. They will see that wall and think +that there is no door and then will go away and not bother that house +any more," I was told.</p> + +<p>The very architecture of the Chinese home is to keep the devils out. The +strange curves with the graceful upward sweep that makes the roofs so +beautiful to American eyes is for the purpose of throwing devils of the +air off the track. They will come down from the skies and start down the +curve of the roofs but will be turned back into the skies again by the +upward slant of the twisted roofs.</p> + +<p>It was this same terrible sense of fear which developed the old surgical +system that the Koreans and Chinese used before the arrival of the +missionaries.</p> + +<p>"Do you see these needles?" an American surgeon in Korea asked me one +day, as he pointed to about a hundred of the most horrible looking +copper and brass needles lying on a stand.</p> + +<p>"Yes," I admitted, mystified.</p> + +<p>"I have taken every one of them out of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> bodies of human beings on +whom I have operated here in the hospital."</p> + +<p>"Where did you find them?"</p> + +<p>"In between the bowels, in the muscles, in the organs of the body, and +one in the heart of a man who came to me because he couldn't breathe +very well."</p> + +<p>"No wonder the fellow couldn't breathe. I don't think I could myself if +I had a needle in my blood-pump!" I said with a smile.</p> + +<p>"These fancy needles that the old Korean doctors thought a good deal of +they put a handle on," he continued.</p> + +<p>"What was that for?"</p> + +<p>"So they wouldn't lose their needles in a body. The other, or common +needles, they just stuck into the body wherever the wound or sore place +was and left them there."</p> + +<p>"And what, may I ask, was the idea of this playful Korean surgery! Was +it something like our 'button, button, whose got the button?'"</p> + +<p>"No, the idea was that there were devils in the wound. If it was a +swelling there was a devil in that swelling. If it was typhoid fever, +and there was pain in the bowels, there was a devil in the inward parts +affected, and so, after carefully sterilizing the needle by running it +through his long, black, greasy hair, the native doctor would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> run it +into the affected part of the body to kill the devil or let it escape +from the body."</p> + +<p>"The old idea of a fear religion, a fear social life, a fear family life +and a fear surgery prevails in Korea as it does in China?" I said by way +of a question.</p> + +<p>"It prevails everywhere in the Orient. To me it is the most awful thing +about working out here. The awful sense of constant fear that is on the +people always and everywhere."</p> + +<p>Pounded-up claws of a tiger; the red horn of a deer; pulverized fish +bones; roots of trees, pigs' eyes; and a thousand poisons and +fear-remedies make up the medical history of the Oriental doctor.</p> + +<p>"Why do they kill girl babies?"</p> + +<p>"Fear!"</p> + +<p>"Fear of what?"</p> + +<p>"Fear of devils! The devils will be displeased if a girl baby is born. +Therefore kill the baby.</p> + +<p>"Throw the babies out on the ground in the graveyards. Let the dogs eat +the babies."</p> + +<p>I heard the dogs howling in a cemetery one night about two o'clock in +the morning as I was coming through the thousands of little conical +mounds, with here and there an unburied coffin.</p> + +<p>"The dogs are having a baby feast to-night," said an old missionary.</p> + +<p>"Why?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>"To appease the devils."</p> + +<p>"My God man; you don't mean that they let the dogs eat their babies +because they are afraid of the devil?" I cried.</p> + +<p>"I mean just that," replied the missionary.</p> + +<p>"Fear! Fear! Fear! Everywhere. Fear by night and fear by day. They never +escape it. It is fear that makes them worship their ancestors. It is +fear that makes them worship idols. It is fear that makes them kill +their girl babies. It is fear that makes them build their little narrow +winding streets, which after a while must become so filthy; fear that if +they do not, the devils will find them; and if they do build their +streets narrow and winding the devils will get lost searching for them. +Oh, God, fear, fear, everywhere! The Orient is full of a terrible and a +constant fear!"</p> + +<p>I looked at my friend astonished. He seldom went into such emotional +outbursts. He was judicial, calm, poised; some said, cold. But this +constant sense of fear that was upon the people had finally broken down +his reserve of poise.</p> + +<p>"The chimneys are beautiful. See that beautiful upward dip in the +architecture. They are like the roofs," I said.</p> + +<p>"But that beautiful, symmetrical development did not come out of a sense +of beauty. It came to fool the devils just as we have said of the roofs. +The devils will glide off into space and will never<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> be able to get down +the chimneys." It is so in other Oriental countries.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>The same is true in the Philippine Islands. The whole fabric of human +life is permeated with the black thread of fear.</p> + +<p>It is true of China and Korea; it is true of Borneo to a marked degree; +and it is true of that great mass of conglomerate humanity that we think +of as India.</p> + +<p>These and other flash-lights of fear remain, and shall remain forever in +my mind. But of a fifty thousand mile trip among hundreds of millions of +human beings; pictures of fear stand out, blurred here and there; but +clear enough in outline so that I can still see the human faces against +a background of midnight darkness.</p> + +<p>Three pictures are clearer than the others. Perhaps it was because the +flash that focused them on the plate of my mind was stronger. Perhaps it +was, that the plate of my soul was more sensitive the days these +impressions were focused. But they stand out; three flash-lights of fear +above all:</p> + +<p>One was told me by Zela Wiltsie Worley, a college girl, now a +missionary's wife, who has known what it means to lie on the floor of +her home an entire morning with machine gun bullets<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> crashing through +her home, between the fire of two revolutionary armies.</p> + +<p>"I was talking with my Amah—she is the girl who cares for our +children," said Mrs. Worley.</p> + +<p>I nodded that I understood that.</p> + +<p>"We were bathing the baby—our first wee kiddie—and the Amah seemed to +have an unusual inclination to talk. I had been joking with her and +asked her if she did not want to buy Clara Gene. In fun we started the +characteristic Chinese haggling over price, she trying to 'jew' me up +and I trying to 'jew' her down.</p> + +<p>"'Oh!' she said, 'girl babies are very expensive the last two or three +years. Now you have to pay over ten dollars to get a nice fat one! +Before that, if you did not drown them, you had an awfully hard time to +get rid of them. There was a man in our town to whom we took the +babies—the girl babies I mean. He would go up and down the streets with +them and sell them to any one who would give him a chicken and a bowl of +rice in return.'</p> + +<p>"'But do they drown the girl babies now?' I asked the Amah.</p> + +<p>"'Oh, yes, of course, if you already have one or two boys. You know, in +my village I am the only Christian. My own family and the rest of the +village worship idols. They are afraid of their gods. They do not know +any better. Why<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> my sister almost drowned my second little boy by +mistake. He had just arrived and she thought that he was a girl, and had +already stuck his head down in a pail of water when I rescued him.'</p> + +<p>"'But who usually kills the girl babies?' I asked. 'Surely not the +mother?'</p> + +<p>"'Yes, she does. She is so afraid when she finds it is only a girl, +afraid that the gods will be angry because she has brought another girl +into the world, that she kills it!'</p> + +<p>"'Do they bury it then?'</p> + +<p>"'Sometimes they wrap it up, and throw it under a pile of rubbish. You +know, we do not have coffins made for any of our babies who die before +they have had their first teeth! I have seen so many babies drowned, +Mrs. Worley. I never did like it. They cry so!'</p> + +<p>"Then I inquired of our Chinese teacher's wife if she knew of girl baby +killing still going on in China.</p> + +<p>"'Just last week,' this teacher's wife said in answer to my inquiry, +'the woman next door went back to her village two miles from here and +she saw her own sister drown a baby while she was there.'</p> + +<p>"I asked an English missionary if she knew that this fearful custom was +still prevalent over most of China with its more than four hundred +million souls.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>"She told me that it was the custom in Ning-daik for the women just to +throw the girl babies under their beds, and they would 'be gone in a day +or two.'</p> + +<p>"And it is all because of their awful fear that the gods will be +displeased if they give birth to a girl baby!"</p> + +<p>The second outstanding flash-light of fear comes from Java.</p> + +<p>In the chapter on Physical Flash-lights I have described the old volcano +of Bromo. It is a terrible thing to look into. Great fissures in the +earth, belch thunder, sulphur, fire, and lava. Great rocks as large as +wagons shoot into the air to the rim of the two hundred-foot crater, and +then drop back with a crash.</p> + +<p>For centuries, and even in these days, clandestinely; I am told by men +whom I trust; the most beautiful maiden of a certain tribe among the +Javanese; and some of the most beautiful women I saw in the Orient were +those soft-skinned, soft-voiced, easy-moving, graceful-limbed, +swaying-bodied; brown skinned women of Java; she, the fairest of the +tribe is taken; and with her the strongest limbed youth; he of the +fibered muscles; he of the iron biceps; he of the clean skin; and the +two of them are tossed into the belching fiery crater of old Bromo.</p> + +<p>"Why?" I asked.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>"They think that in that way, they may propitiate the gods of the +volcano. Their hearts are constantly filled with fear lest the gods of +the volcano become angry and destroy them," said the missionary.</p> + +<p>Then he told me of a trip that they made a year before to the top of one +of the most inaccessible volcanoes which was then in constant eruption.</p> + +<p>"We had a hard time getting native guides. Finally we succeeded. We had +to travel fifty miles before we reached the mountain. Then we climbed +five miles up its steep side, cutting our own trail as we made our way +through the tropical jungle. At last we reached the timber. But before +we entered the forest one of the guides came to me and, with the most +pitiable and trembling fear in his voice and face, begged us white +people not to say anything disrespectful of the mountain; not to joke +and laugh, and not to sing; for that would make the mountain angry, and +we would all be killed.</p> + +<p>"I saw that he was in deadly earnest, and, while I wanted to laugh I +looked as solemn as I could, for there was such terror in his face, I +knew that if I laughed he would turn and run back to civilization.</p> + +<p>"An hour later we reached the timber line. Before we entered it the +first boy fell flat on his face and prayed to the god of the mountain +asking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> that god not to hurt them. Then the next boy did likewise; then +the third and the fourth and the fifth!</p> + +<p>"Their faces were almost white with fear when we missionaries did not +pray. It filled them with terror!"</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>And the last Flash-light of Fear is that of the baby in Medan. The +Priest lived across the way in a temple.</p> + +<p>The baby was sick with whooping-cough. It was the usual, simple case of +baby sickness that American babies all have, and which is not taken +seriously here by either doctor or mother.</p> + +<p>The mother took the baby to the priest.</p> + +<p>The priest took a red hot iron; laid the baby on the church altar and +ran the iron across its neck, and then across its breast and then across +its little stomach. Then he laid it on the front steps of the temple.</p> + +<p>The baby died after a few hours spent in terrible pain.</p> + +<p>Hate the Priest?</p> + +<p>No!</p> + +<p>Despise the mother?</p> + +<p>No!</p> + +<p>Pity them!</p> + +<p>The priest was honest and the mother was honest. They were doing the +best thing for the baby<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> that either of them knew. They knew that the +baby had a devil in its little body and they were merely trying to drive +that devil out of its body.</p> + +<p>Fear! Fear! Fear! Fear of devils in the home, lurking in the shadows of +night and in the light of day; lurking in the bodies of babies; devils +everywhere—always.</p> + +<p>These are the Flash-lights of Fear!</p> + +<p>And like unto them are the pictures of Frightfulness which I have set +down in the next chapter.</p> + + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER V<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIGHTFULNESS</small></h2> + + +<p>"The Jap is the slant-eyed Hun of the Orient. He has a slant-eyed +ethics, a slant-eyed morality, a slant-eyed honesty, a slant-eyed social +consciousness; a slant-eyed ambition, a slant-eyed military system; and +a slant-eyed mind!" said Peter Clarke Macfarlane, the well-known author +and lecturer, one day when I was interviewing him on the Japanese +question.</p> + +<p>"That's pretty strong, Mr. Macfarlane, in the light of your usual +conservatism," I commented.</p> + +<p>"I say it carefully and after much thought. It is said to stay said so +far, as I am concerned," he added with finality.</p> + +<p>This was also my own opinion, after spending three months in Japan and +Korea, another month in China; and another month or two in Manila; +catching the angle of Japanese leadership from every slant.</p> + +<p>And after due consideration, and after a year to think it over +carefully, I am here to say, that I never saw, or heard of anything +worse happening in Belgium under German rule than that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> which I saw and +heard of happening under Japanese rule in Korea, Siberia and Formosa, +while I was in the Orient.</p> + +<p>Suffice it is to say, at this point, that the Japanese is hated by the +whole Orient. I do not believe that the German Hun in his worst day was +ever hated more unanimously for his inhuman practices than is the Jap +Hun hated by the whole Orient to-day.</p> + +<p>"Is it getting better or worse?" I am asked constantly.</p> + +<p>"Worse!" I reply, and this reply is backed up by interviews I have had +with returned Korean missionaries.</p> + +<p>I found the Japanese scorned and hated from one end of the Orient to the +other. As far south as Java, as far east as the Suez; as far north as +the uttermost reaches of Manchuria and Siberia; as far this direction as +Hawaii.</p> + +<p>For instance, after I had been away from Korea for six months and had +come back to America I met a most conservative missionary in the Romona +Hotel in San Francisco. The last time previous to that meeting that I +had seen him was in Korea itself.</p> + +<p>I said to him "Are things better or worse in Korea?"</p> + +<p>His reply was, "Worse than they have ever been; generally speaking!" I +have no intention<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> and no desire to further augment ill feeling between +America and Japan. In fact I do not fear anything like war in that +direction; but I do have an intense feeling of responsibility about +telling my readers the plain and simple truth that the whole Far Eastern +world hates Japan.</p> + +<p>If that thought itself can get into the mind of America, this country +will understand, at least, that there is some fault that lies back in +the Japanese military policy and character itself. It hardly seems +possible, with ten races and five different countries hating Japan; that +Japan herself is not mostly to blame. When a matter of hatred is so +unanimous among all races in that part of the world, it is likely that +the fault lies with the race and nation which has the hatred of so many +types of people focused on its actions.</p> + +<p>While I was in Java some high dignitaries in the Japanese Navy arrived +in Batavia. The Chinese Coolies who live in Batavia absolutely refused +to carry any Japanese officers or sailors in their Rickshas. It was a +striking indictment of the Japanese nation.</p> + +<p>In Singapore the distrust and hatred of the Japanese is unanimous. In +the Philippines it is the same. In Hongkong you see few Japanese. They +are not wanted and they are not trusted. In Shanghai, and Peking it is +the same. The Student Movement, one of the most powerful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> weapons that +has ever arisen in any nation in the world, has focused the Chinese +sentiment against selfish Japanese aggression in China.</p> + +<p>The Japanese officials laughed at the Student Boycott of Japanese goods +when it first started. But in a year they were trembling in the face of +that boycott. I was in Tientsin, and Peking during the days of the +Student Street Demonstrations. They were like American demonstrations.</p> + +<p>Keen, alert, intelligent Chinese boys addressed the crowds admonishing +them not to buy Japanese goods in Chinese shops. The pressure became so +strong that all Chinese merchants from the lowest shopkeeper up to the +owner of the great chain stores, like our Woolworth institutions, put +away Japanese-made goods and refused to sell them.</p> + +<p>I took dinner in Shanghai with one of the foremost merchant princes of +China and said, "Are you selling any Japanese-made goods?"</p> + +<p>"I certainly am not. I am not powerful enough with all my millions of +money and all of my chain of stores to take such a chance as that. I +have put all of my Japanese goods in the cellar."</p> + +<p>The Boycott against Japanese goods in China became so powerful that in +Tientsin, while I was there, the Japanese Consul complained bitterly to +the Governor of the Province and the Governor who was said to be under +the influence of Japanese money, arrested a lot of students. There was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +one of the most determined and terrible riots that I have ever seen. It +was war. It was not like any mild American riot. It was war to the +death. Several students were killed and finally the pressure was so +strong that even this Japanese Agent was compelled to release the +imprisoned students. I shall quote from an editorial that I was asked to +write for the Peking <i>Leader</i> during my stay in China:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>The weapon which most worries the Japanese I should say, is the +boycott that the Students Movement has inaugurated. The Japanese +Government never had anything that quite worried it so much. It is +a weapon that is worth a thousand battleships, or fifty divisions +of soldiers. It is a weapon that will, if continuously, and +consistently and faithfully used, bring a money-loving nation, like +Japan to her knees, and send her finally, scurrying like a whipped +cur, with her tail between her legs back home where she belongs.</p></div> + +<p>I talked with a ragged Chinese boy through an interpreter just to find +what his reactions to the Japanese were. He was a beggar. He said, "The +Japanese has a heart like a dog and a liver like a wolf."</p> + +<p>I quote again from the editorial in the Peking <i>Leader</i>:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>All day I have been on the streets of Peking listening to groups of +students discussing the all <span class='pagenumbq'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>absorbing-question of the Boycott. I +have not understood the characters printed on their banners, but I +have understood the light in Young China's eyes. I can understand +that language and that light, for it is the language and the light +of freedom, justice, liberty! I am an American. I understand that +light when I see it; and I know also; that it is a light that can +never be snuffed out. It is a light that prison walls cannot hide +and that the brute hand of the invader cannot dim.</p></div> + +<p>"And what are they protesting against?" is the question asked.</p> + +<p>Primarily against the Japanese control of Shantung. Secondarily, +against a type of civilization which Japan represents; a civilization +that uses the weapons of frightfulness to accomplish its ends; a +civilization that steals a nation like Korea, compelling the abdication +of a weak Emperor at the point of the bayonet; and then using the avowed +method of extermination to deplete a subjected nation. The whole Orient +knows Japan and knows the methods that Japan has used and is using in +conquered territory. It is a continuous and continual policy of +extermination, frightfulness, and assimilation. This is the underlying +cause of the hatred of the whole Orient and the Far and Near East +against Japan; and this is the fundamental reason for the Students' +Boycott of Japanese goods in China.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>One might devote an entire book to narrations of frightful cruelties +perpetrated by Japanese on Koreans, Siberians and Formosans; but that +would not be so strong as the setting forth of the underlying ethical +reasons for this universal hatred in which Japan is held.</p> + +<p>However it might be quite honest and fair for this writer to set down +here several acts of frightfulness that came under his own personal +observation merely as casual illustrations of that which is going on all +the time.</p> + +<p>One day I was walking with a missionary's wife through the streets of +Seoul. There was an excavation being made and a little railroad track +was being run along this excavation. A Korean boy had been set to guard +this track to keep folks from getting hurt when the dump car came down +its steep grade. He had been ordered by his Japanese employers to stop +all passage when the signal was given.</p> + +<p>We were walking along when this Korean stopped an ordinary Japanese +civilian. He was of the low-browed type; mentally deficient I should +say; but quite the average type that is used by Japan to settle these +conquered countries.</p> + +<p>The Korean held up his hands in warning.</p> + +<p>The Japanese stooped over, picked up a stone as large as a cabbage head +and, with only a space<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> of two feet between himself and the Korean, +threw it with all his force against the cheek of the Korean and smashed +his jaw in, tearing his ear off, breaking his jaw bone, and lacerating +his face fearfully. It was one of the most inhuman things that I have +ever seen done.</p> + +<p>The missionary woman said to the Korean when the Jap ran; "Why do you +not report this to the Japanese police?"</p> + +<p>"It would do no good. They would give no justice to me, and I would be +hounded to my death for reporting it."</p> + +<p>One evening with a friend I had been speaking in Pyeng Yang. It was +midnight one Sunday and we were waiting for a train down to Seoul. As we +stood on the platform waiting; a north-bound train came in. It stopped. +As it stopped several Japanese train boys got off of the train. An old +white-haired Korean gentleman, about seventy-five years of age, stood on +the platform waiting for the train. He was intelligent looking; poised; +and well-dressed in the usual immaculately white robes.</p> + +<p>A fifteen-year old Japanese train boy, seeing him standing there, +deliberately ran out of his way, lowered his shoulders like a football +charger and ran squarely into the old man, knocking him down to the +platform and ran on with a laugh and some muttered Japanese words.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>The dignified Korean gentleman got up, brushed the dirt from his +clothes; did not even deign to glance at the offending boy; and walked +on as if nothing had happened.</p> + +<p>This scene illustrates two things: First, the superiority of the Korean +mind and character to that of the Japanese. This is one of the causes of +the extreme frightfulness pursued by the Japanese. They instinctively +feel the superiority of their captives. It is not the first time in +history that a lesser nation has conquered a superior people.</p> + +<p>This superiority in soul-stuff that the Korean has over that of the +Japanese is recognized immediately by all Europeans and Americans who +become, even in the least bit, familiar with the two peoples. The +sympathy of Christian civilizations is with the Koreans immediately.</p> + +<p>The other thing that this simple scene illustrates, is the spirit of +ruthless cruelty and frightfulness that is bred in the very soul of the +youth of Japan toward the Koreans. Even the train boys can do a thing +like that without fear of punishment.</p> + +<p>The first day that we were in Seoul, the capital city of Korea, Pat +McConnell and myself were walking down the main street of this +interesting city toward the depot. Parallel with us marched a squad of +Japanese soldiers. In front<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> of them, going the same direction, was a +poor Korean workman pushing a small cart that looked like our American +wheelbarrow.</p> + +<p>The Japanese soldiers were in formation and marching in the middle of a +wide street. But deliberately; evidently with orders from their officer +in charge; they edged over to that side of the street where the Korean +was walking and pushed him into the curb stone, kicking his barrow as +they passed, although this meant a useless swerving of, at least, +fifteen feet out of their course to do so. It was a case of deliberate +brutality.</p> + +<p>"Korea is a land of trails and terraces," said a prominent missionary in +that fair spot to me one day as we were riding from Fusan to Seoul.</p> + +<p>"And terror," added another traveler from America. "It is a land of +trails, terraces, and terror!"</p> + +<p>One day a friend of mine was begging Baron Saito, the present +Governor-General of Korea, to stop the cruelties of the Japanese +gendarmes in villages in northern Korea. The Baron asked for the names +of those who had given the missionary his information about the +cruelties and he refused to give them.</p> + +<p>"Why should you not give them?" asked Baron Saito.</p> + +<p>"Because they would be killed for complaining," said the missionary.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>Then he told Governor-General Saito how he had once complained to the +police department when a father and son were cruelly beaten in prison.</p> + +<p>"Give me their names," said the gendarme.</p> + +<p>"I will if you will give me a promise that they will be protected."</p> + +<p>"No! I cannot do that! The gendarmes are very revengeful!"</p> + +<p>I know personally of a Korean preacher who has done no greater crime +than to attend a meeting at a dinner given for released Korean +prisoners. He was arrested and kept in jail for three days, just for +attending that dinner.</p> + +<p>Another preacher with whom I talked was suspected of collecting money +eight months after the March Independence Movement. When he heard that +the Japanese police were coming for him he fled. This angered the +police. They appeared the next morning at three o'clock at his home. +There were only the mother and a twelve-year-old daughter left. First +the gendarmes burst in the frail doors with the butts of their rifles, +and then from three o'clock in the morning until daylight, they beat and +tortured those two helpless Christian Korean women; kicking them all +over the house until they were unconscious. These two Korean women were +in bed for two weeks because of that night's experience and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> were not +able to walk for a much longer period than that.</p> + +<p>And these women were educated, cultured women. They had committed no +crime. It was simply because they did not know where the father was.</p> + +<p>Later the father and son were arrested. They were beaten cruelly in the +process of arrest although they offered no resistance. The son later +said to me, "I could stand it to be beaten myself and even to see my +father beaten but the unbearably cruel thing was to know that they had +beaten my innocent mother and sister when no man was there to protect +them."</p> + +<p>I cite this instance because it happened eight months after the +Independence Movement, and three months after the so-called reform +Government of Baron Saito had been in effect and after the Japanese +Press had said to the world that all cruelties had ceased.</p> + +<p>A case of frightfulness that was called to my attention; which seemed to +me to be the very essence of cruelty was that of the moral terrorizing +of an educated Korean Pastor, whom the police merely suspected of having +had something to do with the Independence Movement. They had no direct +evidence but submitted him to months of moral terrorizing which was the +worst I have ever heard of.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>For months at a stretch they would suddenly appear outside of his home +and thrust their bayonets through his doors. Then they would go away +without saying a word. He had absolutely no redress. If he had +complained, he would have been thrown into prison.</p> + +<p>One of the most reliable missionaries that I met in Korea told me of how +one morning the policemen came to a church in northern Korea during the +hour of service. They broke eighty windows, arrested fourteen men, +smashed the little organ with their gun butts, smashed a beautiful lamp, +tore up the mat seats from the floors, and burned them in front of the +church.</p> + +<p>At the funeral service of another young Korean preacher, Pak Suk Han in +Pyeng Yang, hundreds of Japanese soldiers appeared with drawn bayonets +just to terrorize the people. The church was full of Japanese officers +with drawn swords.</p> + +<p>"What would have happened if somebody in a fit of patriotism had shouted +'Mansei'?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"We would have been killed instantly!" said the missionary soberly. "I +was afraid of that!"</p> + +<p>A prominent, educated and English-speaking Korean official, told me that +in a conversation with a high Japanese official that that particular +Japanese had said "Our plan will be to assimilate the Korean people!"</p> + +<p>"But that will be impossible. There are twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> million of us. You will +find that a hard thing to do!" said this Korean.</p> + +<p>The Japanese official smiled and said significantly, "We know the way!"</p> + +<p>The Korean knew what that meant. It meant extermination; extermination +in every way possible. It meant extermination by introducing +prostitution in Korea. This has been done. Korea never had any legalized +prostitution. Korea never knew what the Red Light Section meant. Japan's +first move was to introduce that. She sent her diseased women to Korea. +She made prostitution ridiculously cheap; fifty sen; which is +twenty-five cents in American money.</p> + +<p>"Why?"</p> + +<p>It is one of her ways of assimilation which means extermination and she +has already shot venereal disease rates up to an alarming state in +Korea.</p> + +<p>Her next step in frightfulness was to introduce opium. Japanese Agents +raise thousands of acres of Opium in Korea and sell it. This is another +one of her steps in the process of assimilation or extermination.</p> + +<p>Japan has stolen from poor Koreans their rice lands and their coal beds. +The process is for a Japanese company to buy the water sources of the +rice paddies below and then refuse to let the Koreans have water for his +rice fields. This is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> another step in frightfulness that will finally +exterminate the Korean if it keeps up long enough.</p> + +<p>The recent massacre of Koreans in Manchuria by Japanese soldiers +illustrate the Japanese spirit.</p> + +<p>This same policy of frightfulness is carried on in Formosa and in +Siberia and wherever the Japanese army and gendarme system has +authority. It is worse than anything that the Germans ever did in France +or Belgium. It has its only parallel in the dark ages.</p> + +<p>I told Baron Saito, Governor-General of Korea this in an interview. He +wanted to know what America thought of Japan's rule in Korea. I said: +"America and the whole civilized world is stirred with indignation at +the Japanese rule in Korea. There has been nothing like it since the +dark ages." Then I read him a quotation from an editorial in <i>Zion's +Herald</i>, a church paper published in Boston with virtually those words +in it.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>My friend, whom I met first in France, when he came back from. France +was sent to Siberia as a Captain in the American Army.</p> + +<p>I met him in Manila just after he had returned from Siberia. He, in +common with all Americans who had seen the Japanese methods of +frightfulness in Siberia, was filled with hatred.</p> + +<p>"One night," he said, "a company of Japanese<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> soldiers entered the +little village six hundred miles north of Vladivostok where we were +located. They announced that they were hunting for Bolsheviks.</p> + +<p>"They did not find any in the little village, although they ruthlessly +broke down every door of every home in that village. Then they went out +to a sawmill about three miles from town and brought in five boys +between the ages of twelve and eighteen.</p> + +<p>"After torturing these boys in an old box car for two days, hanging them +up by the thumbs with their arms behind their backs until they were +unconscious; and then forcing salt water, hot water, cold water, and +water with pepper in it down their nostrils, alternately; and other +added cruelties; they announced to the village that they would release +them that night on the public square."</p> + +<p>"Did they do it?" I asked anxiously, for I was stirred to my soul's +depths with his narration of cruelties in Siberia.</p> + +<p>"Yes, they released them; in this way:</p> + +<p>"They called all the friends and families of the prisoners together on +the public square. Then they dug five graves. Then five Japanese +officers came stalking across the public square, whisking at the +thistle-tops with swords as they came; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> then walked up to these +innocent Russian boys, and whacked off their heads.</p> + +<p>"Had they been tried?" I asked indignantly.</p> + +<p>"They had been given no trial. They were mere boys, who, probably, +didn't even know what the word Bolshevik meant. It was the worst +illustration of frightfulness that I ever saw, although it was a common +thing for the Japanese troops to go through the country upsetting the +barrels of honey that the poor peasants were saving up for the long +winters; rooting up their young potatoes; cutting the throats of their +colts and cattle, and ravishing the land."</p> + +<p>"How could you stand it?"</p> + +<p>"We couldn't stand it. I had to fight to keep my company of Americans +from sailing into them with fists and bayonets. It would have meant war. +So I sent word back to headquarters that we were out of provisions and +we were called back to Vladivostok."</p> + +<p>Can this scene be duplicated in Formosa and Korea, where the Japanese +hold sway?</p> + +<p>It can.</p> + +<p>During the Independence Movement in Korea this thing happened: All of +the Korean Christians had been asked to assemble in a church for a +meeting. When they were all in the church, the Japanese gendarme set +fire to the church and then fired into it, killing every man.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>A woman, big with child, came running toward the church having heard the +shooting and knowing that her husband was within.</p> + +<p>A big, burly Japanese pushed her back.</p> + +<p>"What do you want?" he cried in Korean.</p> + +<p>"I want to go in there. My husband is there," she cried in terror.</p> + +<p>"But you will be killed if you go in there!"</p> + +<p>"I don't care! I want to die if he is to die!"</p> + +<p>"All right! You shall have your wish!" said the Japanese, and pulling +out his sword, cut off her head, killing her instantly. She fell at his +feet with her unborn child; and he laughed aloud at the spectacle.</p> + +<p>This is Japanese frightfulness and it can be duplicated by many +missionaries in Korea if they dared to speak.</p> + +<p>But the minute they speak and tell the truth that minute they are sent +home from their life work. They realize that this leaves the Koreans to +the utter and awful cruelties of the barbarous Japanese, and because of +this, in spite of their indignation they hold their tongues for the +larger good. But they eagerly give the facts to those of us who are +coming back to America so that America in turn may know what is going on +in Korea. That is the only hope; that the indignation of a righteous +world, without war, may bring pressure to bear on Japan to stop these +terrible<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> cruelties and tortures; this unutterable frightfulness. This +is the hope of the missionaries; this is the only hope of the Koreans!</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>I don't know whether or not it was because I had been listening for so +long to the most brutal stories of Japanese treatment of Korean men, +women and children; with murder, rapine, burning of homes, especially +Christian homes; beating of a mother and her twelve-year-old girl from +three in the morning until eight to make them reveal the hiding-place of +their preacher daddy, that the crimson, blood-red sunset I witnessed on +my last night in Korea seemed to me like a "sunset of crimson wounds." +All I know is that it happened in Korea while I was there, and that my +soul had been, for a solid month, stirred to the depths of its righteous +wrath over the things that I had heard first-hand from human lips.</p> + +<p>But there it was. The sky was blood-red. At first it was black, a somber +black. Not a coal-black but a slate black. Then suddenly just at the +edge of the horizon a crack began to appear. It was a slit of blood. It +looked more like a wound than anything else I ever saw. The slit of +blood grew larger and larger in the slate-black clouds.</p> + +<p>Then suddenly all over the horizon these wounds began to break through +the mass of black<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> clouds. Some of these slits were horizontal slits, +and some of them ran in graceful curves. Some of them looked as if a +bayonet had been lunged into the body of that somber cloud and a great +crimson gash was made with ragged edges as big as a house. Then it +looked as if some ruthless Japanese gendarme had taken his sword and +slashed a rip in the abdomen of that sky; and from side to side like a +crescent moon appeared this great crimson wound.</p> + +<p>I had never seen a sunset just like it. But there it was. It seemed that +there was back of that great black cloud a blood-red planet, pouring its +crimson tides like a great waterfall down back of that slate-black mass +until finally the curtain of black began to tear, and the blood poured +through to run along the horizon, and splash against the clouds, and +slit its way like wounds through the clouds of night.</p> + +<p>And I thought of something else. I thought how a Man once was crucified. +I thought how dark the skies were on that afternoon. I thought how +slate-colored and somber all life seemed, especially to that little +group of disciples. I thought of the wounds in His hands and feet and +side. I thought of the wounds the thorns in His crown made, and of the +blood that ran over His face. I could see Him there back of that cloud +in Korea. I could see His Christian people being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> crucified again +because of their religion. I could see Japanese bayonets thrust into His +side and Japanese nails through His feet and His hands. I could see a +Japanese crown of thorns on His head because He said, "Inasmuch as ye +have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren ye have done it +unto me." And I could see the blood of his wounds breaking through that +nation's clouds on that wonder evening of the "sunset of wounds" back of +the Korean mountains in December.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VI<br /> +<small>FEMININE FLASH-LIGHTS</small></h2> + + +<p>"Oriental women are fascinating to Occidental men," said a newspaper +reporter in a Shanghai hotel lobby, a year ago.</p> + +<p>"All women are fascinating to Occidental men. Take the French girls and +the way they captured our American soldiers; of course, these +brown-eyed, brown-skinned, graceful, mysterious——"</p> + +<p>"It's just as I said," replied the first speaker interrupting the second +speaker, "Oriental girls are more fascinating to Occidental men than +white girls."</p> + +<p>"Yes—I guess you are right, when we get down to the honest to goodness +truth of the thing," said an American oil man. "Take that Javanese girl +who knocked at the door of my room; or take that half-breed Malay girl +we met on the ship between Singapore and Batavia; or that little +red-cheeked Japanese girl in Tokyo; or that Spanish brunette in Manila; +or—Oh, Boy! Do you remember that Chinese half-breed, with English blood +in her veins and an English education in her brain and Paris clothes on +her back,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> and American pep in her eyes, and Japanese silk stockings on +her——"</p> + +<p>"Come on! Come on! We didn't call on you for a lecture on Oriental girls +whom you have met," said the first speaker.</p> + +<p>Then a bell boy paged me and I lost the rest of the conversation.</p> + +<p>But this dialogue set me to thinking on the various types of fascinating +Oriental women; the standing they have in the world; and the status of +their living.</p> + +<p>There were the Japanese women; beautiful, graceful, red-cheeked, small +of stature, wistful-eyed, colorfully dressed; always smiling slaves to +their men.</p> + +<p>The well-trained Geisha girl has, for centuries, because of her superior +education, received the confidences of Japanese men; while a Japanese +man would scorn to talk things over with his wife.</p> + +<p>There was the banquet we attended at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Mr. +Uchida, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and many of the high officials +of Japan were present with their wives. Several members of the House of +Parliament were present as well as the Secretary to Mr. Hara, the Prime +Minister. Each of these great leaders of Japan had his wife by his side +at the banquet table.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>It was a small group.</p> + +<p>One of the speakers of the evening said: "Perhaps you Americans do not +realize that this banquet is an unusual occasion in Japan. I think that +it is the first time that I have ever attended a banquet in all my life, +when so many Japanese gentlemen had their own wives with them at that +banquet. It is a very unusual thing to do, but I hope that, in time, it +will become more common in Japan, as it is in America."</p> + +<p>This speech was met with amused laughter on the part of the Japanese +gentlemen present; but laughter that was kindly; and it was met with +applause on the part of the Americans present.</p> + +<p>It was typical of the attitude of even the educated Japanese man toward +the matter of appearing in public with his wife at his side.</p> + +<p>Up in Sapporo, on the island of Hokkaido, we were entertained by a +beautiful Japanese woman. We had been away from America for several +months and were tired of eating Japanese food, so when we were invited +to this Japanese home for a dinner we groaned.</p> + +<p>But much to our delight, when we sat down we had as fine an American +dinner as any of us had ever eaten.</p> + +<p>I turned to our hostess, a most beautiful Japanese woman; the wife of +the Dean of the College<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> at Sapporo; and said: "Do you have servants who +know how to cook American food?"</p> + +<p>"No, I cooked it all myself!" she said much to my surprise with a bow +and a smile.</p> + +<p>And there she sat, cool and poised after having cooked food enough for +fifteen people that morning; and arranging for it to be served in the +finest style; with place cards, salted almonds, Turkey, pudding, +vegetables and everything that makes an American dinner good; including +a fine salad. There she sat; as cool, calm and collected as if servants +had done all of the work that morning instead of she herself.</p> + +<p>And never in all of my life have I seen a more gracious hostess. She +watched the wants of every guest. She noted which guests liked a special +food, and saw to it that they had plenty of that particular food; and, +in addition to this she kept a fascinating line of conversation going +constantly during the meal.</p> + +<p>"Do you live in American fashion or Japanese fashion?" I asked her, +knowing that she had been educated in America.</p> + +<p>"Both!" was her reply. "We have Japanese rooms for our Japanese guests +and American rooms for our European and American guests."</p> + +<p>"But how do you live yourselves; how are you training your children?" I +asked her.</p> + +<p>"We are training our daughters to live in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> American style; on a common +ground with the men. That is the better way. That is the fairer way! +That is the way out of our feminine darkness!"</p> + +<p>She said it quietly, with poise, and with a fine assurance which was +thrilling. It sounded like a call to battle, like a trumpet note in the +new freedom for women.</p> + +<p>A missionary friend told me at the conclusion of that meal that this +beautiful young Japanese hostess whispered to her Mother-in-law during +the dinner a phrase that sounded strangely like American slang, when she +noted that her mother-in-law was not carrying on much of a conversation +with the man beside her, "Start something! He can speak Japanese as well +as English!"</p> + +<p>At that, dear Mrs. Mother-in-law started an animated conversation in +Japanese with her silent guest on her left. This was illustrative of the +care with which our hostess was watching that we be kept happy at her +table. It was a Feminine Flash-light that I do not care to forget; an +illustration of the possible efficiency, poise, grace, beauty and +sweetness of the Japanese woman of the future when she shall have won +her rights of freedom from the slavery of an inferior position to man in +the social scale.</p> + +<p>To an American, the position of woman in regard to prostitution in Japan +is a terrible thing,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> but when we consider the light in which the +Ethical thought of Japan sees it, we do not blame the women any more +than Jesus blamed the woman taken in adultery in his day.</p> + +<p>The system of prostitution is run by the Government and the largest +income that the Government has, comes from the sale of Sake, the +national drink, and its houses of prostitution.</p> + +<p>A woman who becomes a Prostitute is looked upon as a heroine. This is +for the simple reason that she is given a matter of several hundred yen, +it depending upon her form, beauty and qualifications for her position; +and that money goes to her poor parents. When she leaves her little +village to give a certain number of the years of her life to the +Yoshiwara in order to free her parents from debt she is lauded and fêted +by the people of her village and sent off as one who goes on a crusade +of service.</p> + +<p>Prostitution is so much a part of the acknowledged life of Japan that +Temples for prostitutes exist where they may go and pray. In one Temple +we saw large numbers of photographs put up by certain girls of the +Yoshiwara to advertise their wares.</p> + +<p>Consequently there is no fine tradition of ethical values established in +Japan and the poor girl herself is not to blame. Nor is she blamed; for +it is not at all an uncommon thing for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> Japanese girl to marry out of +a house of prostitution into a fine family.</p> + +<p>One of the terrible Feminine Flash-lights that every careful traveler +discovers in the Orient is the presence of Japanese girls in the +segregated sections of Shanghai, Seoul, Peking, Nanking; and even so far +away as Singapore. I understand however that a recent order from the +Emperor has called all these girls back to Japan, which is an upward +step not only for Japan as a nation; but for the womankind of Japan.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>It was in a Japanese Hotel in northern China that Pat McConnell and I +had our experience with the strange ways and customs of Japan. Pat was +taking the pictures and I was writing the stories.</p> + +<p>We thought it would be an unusual experience to stay all night at a +regular Japanese Inn. We stayed.</p> + +<p>That night, much to the amusement, of the missionaries who stayed with +us, three beautiful Japanese girls came gracefully into the cold room +where we had started to take our clothes off.</p> + +<p>They bowed several times as they came with cups of hot tea.</p> + +<p>They seemed to pay particular attention to me.</p> + +<p>All three of them bowed to me first and then each proceeded to select an +individual man to whom they served tea.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>I took it for granted that they had paid this particular attention to me +because of some special characteristic of masculine beauty or +intellectual appearance; or atmosphere of greatness that must have +hovered about me in some unknown fashion.</p> + +<p>I made the mistake of swelling up with pride and bragging about this +attention that I had received.</p> + +<p>"Ah, that's because of your bald head. They think that you are the old +man of the party. They have great respect for old age!" the missionary +said with a roar of laughter.</p> + +<p>The truth of the matter was that I was the youngest of the party, but +those girls had selected me as the venerable member of the group of +Americans.</p> + +<p>But the climax came when these young ladies decided to stay with us "To +the bitter end" as Pat called it.</p> + +<p>After filling us with tea they still remained; bowing and smiling; even +though they could not understand a word we were saying nor we a word +that they were saying.</p> + +<p>"It's one o'clock now! I'd like to get to bed," said Pat.</p> + +<p>"How long will they stay with us?" I asked.</p> + +<p>The missionaries only grinned in reply.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>"By George, I'm going to take my shirt off and see if they won't go!" +said Pat.</p> + +<p>He took it off. The young girl who was serving him took his shirt and +after neatly folding it, laid it carefully away.</p> + +<p>"So that's what they're waiting for; to undress us?" queried Pat and the +missionaries laughed again, waiting to see what would happen.</p> + +<p>"They can go as far as they like. If they can stand it, I can!" said +Pat.</p> + +<p>Then he took off his shoes.</p> + +<p>A young lady took the shoes, carefully brushed them off, and put them +away. Then he took off socks, followed by his trousers.</p> + +<p>It looked as they would stay until Pat got into his Pajamas. He was in a +corner.</p> + +<p>"It seems as if this young lady wants to put me to bed right!" said Pat, +with a grin.</p> + +<p>"That's exactly what she is here for. It's a hotel custom in Japanese +hotels and we get so that we don't think anything of it. They bathe in +the same pool; men and women alike; and think nothing of it. After all, +modesty is not entirely a matter of clothes, as the Japanese prove."</p> + +<p>"Anyhow, that's what I call service!" said Pat with a grin.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>It was a cold winter night in Seoul, Korea. I had been invited to dinner +at a Korean home;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> the home of a former Governor under the Korean +regime; and now, a respected official under the Japanese rule.</p> + +<p>I had looked forward to this dinner with unusual interest.</p> + +<p>We took Rickshas to get there and nearly froze on the way.</p> + +<p>We took both our shoes and our coats off on the back porch and left them +to the tender mercies of the zero weather which prevailed on that night.</p> + +<p>We were ushered into this beautiful home.</p> + +<p>A room was full of men; stately sons of the family; the gray-bearded, +dignified father; but no women, not a single woman. I wondered about +this, for I knew that this household was noted for its beautiful +daughters and a wonderful mother. The missionaries had told me that.</p> + +<p>I wondered why no women came to welcome me.</p> + +<p>Finally we sat down to one of those interminable Oriental dinners, with +thirty or forty courses; squatted on our haunches, on the cold floor; +half-frozen, cramped and uncomfortable.</p> + +<p>Then in came a beautiful girl. She was beautiful in every sense of the +word; physically and spiritually. There was a touch of refinement about +her which made me know that she had received an English education.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>But she was not there for any part of the dinner. Not at all. She was +there merely to serve.</p> + +<p>I found that she could speak English and every time she came to serve +me, I took the opportunity of talking with her; taking a chance on +whether it was diplomatic for me to do so or not. I was after +information.</p> + +<p>"You speak good English?" I said. "Why do you not sit down and eat with +us?"</p> + +<p>She laughed aloud.</p> + +<p>"My father would drop over dead if I did. It is not the custom in Korea +for the women of the family to dine with the men on an occasion like +this. We eat alone in the kitchen."</p> + +<p>"Have you a mother?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, but she is in the kitchen."</p> + +<p>"Will I not get to meet her before I go?"</p> + +<p>"Perhaps? Perhaps not. If you meet her at all it will be just at the +close, of the evening, providing my father thinks to call her. It is not +important; so our Korean men think."</p> + +<p>"But you; you know better? You have been in an American School?" I said, +as she came in for the fifteenth course and paused a moment to talk with +me.</p> + +<p>"Yes, I know better! I know the American way of treating women is the +Christian way," she said sadly.</p> + +<p>"And what do you think of that way? Do<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> you not like that way better +than the Korean way?" I asked.</p> + +<p>"The American way is much better." Then she paused and much to my +delight used a typical American girl's phrase, with an appealing touch +of pathos in her voice and a blush of crimson in her brown cheeks, "Why, +I just love the American way!" she said and then fled, blushing with +shame, as if she had said something immodest.</p> + +<p>I did not see her again that evening. Nor did I see any of the other +women of that household. Nor did I see the mother of the home at all.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>It was in a Shanghai hospital. I was sitting beside an American +newspaper friend who was at the head of the Chinese Information Bureau. +He was a world-vagabond. Beside his bed sat a beautiful Chinese girl, +who had been educated in England and whose mother was a Scotch woman. +Her father was a full-blooded Chinese.</p> + +<p>"I love her but she won't marry me!" said my friend suddenly looking up +toward the Chinese girl.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="heaven" id="heaven"></a> +<img src="images/112a.jpg" width="600" height="409" alt="Temple of Heaven" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING.</p> +<p class="captionblockquot">Long before a single cathedral had been built in Europe this beautiful +structure was erected.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="pagoda" id="pagoda"></a> +<img src="images/112b.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="A Pagoda" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEEN STORY PAGODA NEAR PEKING.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="shrine" id="shrine"></a> +<img src="images/113a.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="A wayside shrine" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">MILLIONS OF WAYSIDE TEMPLES AND SHRINES ADORN THE FIELDS +AND HIGHWAYS EVERYWHERE IN JAPAN, KOREA, AND CHINA. THIS IS ONE OF THEM. +A SHRINE AND A TEMPLE.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="silhouette" id="silhouette"></a> +<img src="images/113b.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="Silhouette of Boroboedoer" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">A SUNRISE SILHOUETTE PHOTOGRAPH OF SOME OF THE HUNDREDS +OF BELLS OF BUDDHA ON BOROBOEDOER, JAVA.</p> +</div></div> + +<p>She was a beautiful girl and could play a piano as few American women I +have met. She would have graced any social room in America with her dark +beauty, her brown eyes, and her Oriental fire. She was rich. Her father +was worth several millions; being one of many shrewd <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>Chinese business +men. She was dressed like a Parisian model, in the latest European +styles. She was in China for the first time in her life. Her father had +brought her back to marry a Chinese boy. She did not love him. She did +love my American friend.</p> + +<p>"Why will you not marry James?" I asked her.</p> + +<p>"My father would kill me," she said quietly.</p> + +<p>"Does he say so?"</p> + +<p>"He does. He went to America a week ago; and the last thing he said was, +'If you marry anything but a Chinese I will kill you!'"</p> + +<p>"Did he really mean it?" I asked her, astonished.</p> + +<p>"He meant it more than anything he ever meant in his life. It would be +considered a disgrace to my entire family if I married anybody but a +Chinese boy."</p> + +<p>"Even though your father married a Scotch woman?" I said.</p> + +<p>"For that very reason it is imperative that I marry my own blood," she +said.</p> + +<p>"That is terrible!" I replied catching my first glimpse of the strange +and terrible social position in which a girl of mixed blood is placed in +China.</p> + +<p>"You see," she said in a quiet, refined voice, with a marked English +accent, "I have an English education but I have Chinese blood. I can +never<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> be happy marrying a Chinese after I have been educated in +England. I can never be happy with Chinese clothes, Chinese customs, and +Chinese people. And yet if I marry the man I love, it will break my +father's heart. He would kill me to be sure; for if he says he will, +that means that he will keep his word. But that would not be the worst +of it. To die would be easy."</p> + +<p>"What would be the worst of it?" I asked, my heart stirred with a +strangely deep sympathy at this beautiful Chinese girl's dilemma.</p> + +<p>"The worst thing would be that it would break my father's heart!"</p> + +<p>Then she wept.</p> + +<p>That was my first glimpse of the life of tragedy through which a +half-breed woman of the Orient has to go.</p> + +<p>I met them in the Philippines, with Spanish and American blood running +in their veins; I met Malay girls whose fathers had been German or +English; I met Dyak girls whose fathers had been Dutch; and Javanese +girls whose fathers had been either American, English or Dutch.</p> + +<p>I stayed with such a woman in a home in Borneo. She had been a Dyak +girl. Yet she did not look it. She had a beautiful home with beautiful +English speaking children. I met her in the interior of Borneo a hundred +miles from a single white woman. And yet in this far interior; living<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +with her English husband who was the head of a mining project; she was +keeping intact the English education of her children. There was a piano +and the children played beautifully while the mother, in a rich +contralto voice sang.</p> + +<p>She was graceful, accomplished, beautiful, poised and sweet.</p> + +<p>One night as we walked alone under the moonlight the Englishman opened +his heart to me and said, "You are going to visit the Head-Hunting Dyaks +to-morrow. You will see their abject squalor and filth. You will be +surprised when I tell you that my wife was a Dyak girl and that I took +her out of a Kampong fifteen years ago and took her to England."</p> + +<p>"That's a lie!" I exclaimed.</p> + +<p>"It is the truth!" he added.</p> + +<p>Somehow his statement angered me. I don't know why. Perhaps it was the +unusual heat of the tropics. We were directly on the Equator. I would +have fought him for that statement.</p> + +<p>But it was true.</p> + +<p>"And the hell of it was that when I took her to England she was not +happy and my people would not receive her. So we have had to come back +to Borneo and live our lives in this fashion, far from civilization."</p> + +<p>He was silent for a few minutes.</p> + +<p>"That is the fate of mixing bloods in these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> tropical lands," he said +with a shudder. "And the woman always suffers more than the man!"</p> + +<p>I met another Malay-English girl on the ship going from Singapore to +Batavia, Java.</p> + +<p>She too was an educated, English-speaking girl of a strange beauty and +fascination. She started to talk with me as I sat alone on the Dutch +ship. We were the only English-speaking people on board and we felt a +certain comradeship. We sat an entire evening talking about the problem +of a girl of mixed blood in the Malay States.</p> + +<p>"White men always assume that we are bad girls. They come into the +offices where we work as stenographers and insult us. It is that taint +of mixed blood. We have the longings and the ideals of the best blood +that is in our veins; but the skin and the color and the passions of the +worst. We try to be good; some of us; but everything is against us. We +can never marry white men; though we frequently fall in love with them +for we work side by side with them in the offices. But when it comes to +marrying us they fear the social ban. It is a terrible thing. There is +no way out! It is a thing that has been imposed upon us from the +generations that have gone. We pay!"</p> + +<p>I shall never forget her brown eyes, her brown skin, her heaving breast, +as the great Dutch ship<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> cut the waves of the South China Sea bound for +Java.</p> + +<p>"Why are you leaving a good position and going to Java?" I asked her.</p> + +<p>"They say things are better for us girls in Java; that the Dutch are not +so particular. I shall no doubt be homesick for Singapore but I am going +to try Java for a while. My sister is there!"</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>A Feminine-Flash light that has its humorous side was one that I +experienced in Borneo.</p> + +<p>We had gone out to a Dyak village to take pictures.</p> + +<p>It was a miserably hot morning. That night I stayed in Pontianak which +is bisected by the Equator. It was so cold in the middle of the night +that I had to get up and put on a night shirt!</p> + +<p>The next day we tramped ten miles through the Jungle to a Head-hunting +Dyak village.</p> + +<p>I had been taking pictures for an hour in this Kampong when six of the +most beautiful Dyak girls came in, with great Bamboo water tubes flung +over their gracefully strong shoulders. Their skin looked like that of a +red banana from toe to chin. They were stark naked save for a girdle +about their loins. They had been five miles away for water.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>Their skin was flushed with exercise. There they stood, mystified at +seeing white men in the village Kampong.</p> + +<p>In fact they were terrified.</p> + +<p>Their big brown eyes bulged out.</p> + +<p>Their breasts heaved with fear.</p> + +<p>I said to the missionary, "Dyak Madonnas! What a painting they would +make?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, there are no more beautiful women anywhere. They look like bronze +statues. A Rodin, or a St. Gaudens would go wild over their limbs and +bodies."</p> + +<p>I asked the missionary to tell them that I wanted to take a picture of +them just as they were, standing with their water vessels poised on +their shoulders; in their naked splendor and beauty.</p> + +<p>He told them.</p> + +<p>They squealed for all the world like American girls and ran for dear +life, disappearing in the flash of an eye.</p> + +<p>He tried to coax them to come out to get a picture taken. The Missionary +could speak their language but they would only peek through the doors +with grinning faces.</p> + +<p>Finally they agreed that we could take their pictures if I would let +them put dresses on.</p> + +<p>I didn't want to do this; for I wanted them just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> as they were; but saw +that they were adamant in their souls even if their brown bodies did +look as soft as ripening mangos; and as beautiful and brown.</p> + +<p>I pictured all sorts of ugly dresses; discarded by the white folks and +given to them. But much to my surprise, when they appeared all dressed +up for the picture, every last one of them had on a white woman's +discarded night gown.</p> + +<p>I wanted to laugh. It destroyed their picturesqueness but those gowns +could not destroy their symmetrical beauty of limb and body.</p> + +<p>"That's a quick way to dress up!" I said to my missionary friend.</p> + +<p>We smiled but I got the picture.</p> + +<p>And back of these Flash-lights Feminine; is the black page of the +history of womankind in all the Far East; with footbinding still rampant +over nine-tenths of China; baby-killing, baby-selling, and baby-slavery +which I saw with my own eyes time and time again; with slavery of +womankind, from Japan down to Ceylon the regular thing. But there is +still hope in the woman-heart of the Far East; and the hope is the +American woman and her religion. That and that alone will break down +prejudices, break off shackles, and tear to bits the traditions of the +past.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>"The women suffer! Yes, the women always suffer!" said a big fellow to +me up in the northern part of Luzon in the Philippines one evening.</p> + +<p>"What do you mean?" I asked him, scenting a story.</p> + +<p>Then the man told me of a cholera epidemic that he had passed through; +of how he had tried to care for the sick, even though he was not a +physician; told me of their poor superstitious methods of driving away +the "evil spirits."</p> + +<p>He told of how he had gone into homes where he found seven inmates dead +and four dying; of how he tried to care for them with nothing medicinal +at hand.</p> + +<p>Then he told me of how the poor people went down to a dirty inland river +and had killed a hog, taken its heart; killed a dog, taken its heart; +and then after putting them on a little raft, floated them off down the +river to drive the cholera away. Then he told me of how the natives had, +in their desperation, tied tight bands about their ankles to keep the +evil spirits from coming up out of the earth into their bodies.</p> + +<p>"But what do you yourself do about a doctor. You say that you are 400 +miles from a doctor, even here. What about your children, when they take +sick?" I asked him, and then was sorry that I had asked the question +because of a terribly hurt and unutterably sorrowful look in his eyes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>"Mother and I don't like to talk about that or to think about it!" he +said simply, and I knew that I had torn open an old wound which was just +over his heart.</p> + +<p>His voice broke as he spoke, and he looked at the woman who was his +brave helpmate and said again: "Mother and I don't like to think about +that!" The tears ran down over his cheeks and "Mother's" too, and mine +also.</p> + +<p>"I am sorry! I am sorry if I have opened an old wound!" I said, quite +helpless to remedy the damage I had done. I felt as one who had +unwittingly trodden on a flower bed and crushed some violets. They +bleed, even though you see no blood. I saw that their hearts were +bleeding. But he spoke.</p> + +<p>"We were 400 miles from a doctor. Baby took sick. If we could have had a +doctor she would have been saved."</p> + +<p>"Now Daddy, we do not know for certain about that," said the +ever-conservative woman in her.</p> + +<p>"There was not a Filipino doctor. She died in mother's arms!"</p> + +<p>It was oppressively silent in that far-off mission home for a few +minutes. I thought some one would sob aloud. It might have been any one +of us, the way we all felt. I took hold of my cane chair with a grip +that numbed my hands for a half hour afterwards.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VII<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FUN</small></h2> + + +<p>All the "Peck's Bad Boys" of the world are not confined to American +soil.</p> + +<p>I found them all over the Far East; especially in China.</p> + +<p>I was annexed by one of them who became a sort of a guide de luxe when +we were going through the ruined Palaces of the romantic regions of +Peking.</p> + +<p>He annexed himself to us in somewhat the same fashion as a thistle or a +burr annexes itself to you as you walk through the field where thistles +are thick.</p> + +<p>He was an acquired asset of questionable value. With him were a lot of +followers but it was plain to be seen that he was the leader of the +gang; which was, for all the world, like a typical street gang in an +American city.</p> + +<p>Who could pass up that group of a dozen little rascals who followed us +through the ruins of the old Summer Palace? Who could resist their +imitations of everything one did? I sneezed and the little rascals +sneezed also. I counted one,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> two, three, four, as I adjusted my Graflex +for a picture and I heard a chorus of laughing "One, two, three, fours." +I yelled ahead to an American member of the party and said "Wait!" and a +dozen boys yelled "Wait!"</p> + +<p>We fell in love with the dirty-faced rascals. They looked to be a +nuisance when we started and I wanted them driven back, but before we +were through they had become the most interesting part of the whole +trip. Sure enough we emptied our purses of pennies and some white money. +The little fellow who was in his bare feet and who said, with a real +touch of seven year old Chinese humor, "These are leather shoes that I +have on and they will last all my life," won our hearts. That was humor +with a vengeance.</p> + +<p>This lad was happy. No wonder then that when one of the party passed him +an extra penny early in the morning he winked knowingly as one who had +been taken into the inner councils of affection.</p> + +<p>And no wonder that he followed the man who gave him that penny to the +end of the morning, and no wonder when we told him through the +interpreter that we liked the boys because they were good boys; he said +in return, "Some boys would have followed you around, pulling your coats +and being rude and yelling at you."</p> + +<p>The nonchalant way in which they admitted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> that they were good boys won +our hearts and we came back penniless.</p> + +<p>Then who can forget the little rascals who smiled and winked back in the +midst of the dignified Lama ceremonies over at the Lama Temple, proving +that they were, after all, real human boys with a laugh and the spirit +of fun in their little souls in spite of their having to take part in +this dignified chanting service.</p> + +<p>It was fun when the service was over to see them tumble out of the +Temple so fast that one boy fell and about six fell on top of him just +as American boys do pouring out of school. I even saw one lad whack +another one on the back of his little bald head and a scuffle ensued. +They laughed, fought, tumbled pell-mell, got up again grinning, winked +and laughed back at the good natured Americans for all the world like +American boys.</p> + +<p>The Chinese have a distinct sense of humor and it is very much like that +which is found in our own America. Indeed the Chinese are like us in +many respects.</p> + +<p>The Filipino enjoys a good joke but his humor is more cruel than is +American humor.</p> + +<p>The Dyak of Borneo has a sense of play and fun that would not exactly +appeal to an American mind; although there are those who claim that +American football is a near kin to the delightful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> game of Head-hunting +indulged in by the Dyaks of Borneo.</p> + +<p>The Dyaks have for centuries been known as the head-hunters of the Far +East. They, in common with the Igorotes of the Philippines, have had the +playful custom of going out when the mood took them and bringing in a +few heads just as our Indians used to get scalps. When a Dyak youth +wanted to marry a nice young Dyak girl to whom he had taken a fancy (and +I can assure the reader that some of them are as beautiful as Rodin's +bronze statues), he didn't even dare mention his desire for that young +bronze beauty until he had brought in five or six heads. After that he +had some standing in the lady's sight. Without the heads he had no more +chance of winning either the girl herself or her pa or ma or any of the +Dyak family than the proverbial snowball has of getting through Borneo +without melting. It just simply couldn't be done according to Dyak +etiquette.</p> + +<p>Head-hunting was a game between tribes also. When two tribes of Dyaks +felt a playful mood coming on, they would challenge each other to a +head-hunting game. The game would last for a week or so and the tribe +that took the most heads won. It was nothing like "Tag you're it." If +so, some of the skulls that I have seen at Dyak Compounds would not be +grinning so hideously these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> days as they ornament the poles of certain +vain and proud Dyak hunters.</p> + +<p>The Battaks of Sumatra also have a playful custom of getting rid of +their old men. When a man gets so old that they think it is about time +for him to tell his last tale, they put him up a Cocoanut tree. Then all +of the young bucks of the village get together and try to shake him +down. If he is too feeble to hold on, and comes down, that is a sign of +heaven that his days are through and they cook him and eat him.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>The Japanese claim to have a great sense of humor. Japanese students +speaking in America, insist that this is true. But travelers in Japan do +not find it so. Indeed if Japan had a sense of humor, it would keep her +out of many an international tangle. She does not know how to laugh. Her +sense of dignity is so exaggerated that she does not know the fine art +of smiling and laughing at herself.</p> + +<p>"What does Japan most need to learn?" a student asked me.</p> + +<p>"To laugh," I replied.</p> + +<p>"I think that you are right! Your Lincoln knew how to laugh!" was his +response as he went off thoughtfully.</p> + +<p>I was advertised to speak in a northern college in Japan. The Dean of +the school wanted to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>advertise me so that the students would all come +out to hear me. This is the way he did it:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Dr. Stidger is a college student who played with the foot-ball in +America. He is a man with the bigness of the head! He reaches the +six feet tall; the four feet around; has an arm like an ox and a +head like a board!"</p></div> + +<p>I was not certain as to just what he meant by many of those references, +but I was assured that they were intended to be highly complimentary to +me. I am not yet sure of that but I had a good laugh just the same.</p> + +<p>The story is told of a ruthless American humorist Hotel-keeper in +Singapore who was entertaining a group of Japanese Officers from the +Japanese Navy. This American had no love for Japan. He also knew of +their lack of humor; so when the Japanese Captain arrived at the hotel +the American Manager made quite an extended speech of welcome, as his +American friends listened, greatly amused.</p> + +<p>He said in part: "The hotel is yours! During your stay the entire force +of servants is at your disposal. If there is anything that you want that +you do not see, please ask for it."</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="bromo" id="bromo"></a> +<img src="images/128a.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="Bromo volcano" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">OLD BROMO VOLCANO, JAVA.</p> +<p class="captionblockquot">"The way it effervesces Bromo is a fitting name," said the author when +he saw it in action.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="sideview" id="sideview"></a> +<img src="images/128b.jpg" width="600" height="412" alt="View of Boroboedoer" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">A SIDE VIEW OF BEAUTIFUL BOROBOEDOER IN JAVA.</p> +<p class="captionblockquot">Said by travelers to make the Pyramids look like child's play as a +tremendous piece of construction; and as a work of art to have no rival +in the whole world.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="children" id="children"></a> +<img src="images/129a.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="A group of children" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">NAKED AND OTHERWISE.</p> +<p class="captionblockquot">This curious conglomeration of Mongrel children watching the +photographer in Borneo where Dyaks, Chinese, Malay and others mix +indiscriminately.</p> +</div></div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a name="dog" id="dog"></a> +<img src="images/129b.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="A group of dogs" /> +<div class="cap-horiz"> +<p class="caption">A DOG MARKET AMONG THE IGGOROTEES OF THE PHILIPPINES.</p> +</div></div> + +<p>The Japanese Captain bowed continuously and smiled; sucking in his +breath with a characteristic national custom; the same sound they made +as they eat fried eggs in a Japanese dining car; a sound similar to the +old-fashioned but now <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>obsolete method of drinking coffee from a saucer.</p> + +<p>"There is just one request however that we will have to make of you, +while you are here with us in the hotel," continued the American hotel +manager.</p> + +<p>"And what is that may I ask?" inquired the Japanese Captain, still +bowing and sucking in air through his teeth.</p> + +<p>"That you do not climb around in the trees!"</p> + +<p>The Japanese officers did not see the joke and did not even smile but +the Americans in the Far East have laughed over it for years.</p> + +<p>Which reminds one of the night on the Sambas River when a hundred little +monkeys were silhouetted against a crimson sunset.</p> + +<p>Red, brown, yellow, golden, blue orchids flashed in the sunlight; and +flowers of every hue under God's blue skies made brilliant the river +banks. At times the ship went so close that I could reach out and grab a +limb of a tree, much to the indignation of the monkeys who chattered at +me as if I had stolen something. Now and then a big lazy alligator slid +into the water from the muddy banks as the wave-wash from our propeller +frightened him.</p> + +<p>Coming back down the Sambas River, along its winding, beautiful way we +sat one evening and watched a crimson sunset from the deck of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> ship. +At one point in the river there was a row of dead, bare trees. There +were no leaves on the branches—only monkeys: big red monkeys, which +they call "Beroks," and little gray fellows, which they call "Wahwahs." +These monkeys were strikingly silhouetted against the crimson sunset in +strange tropical fashion. From the tips of those dead trees down to the +lowest branches dozens of monkeys stood like sentinels, or romped like +children, or chattered like magpies. Their long curling tails +silhouetted below the branches against the light of evening.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Most Americans who go in and out of Japan get disgusted with the +regulations that policemen impose upon them.</p> + +<p>This is especially true of those Americans living in China who are +compelled, for business reasons, to go in and out of Japan, for at every +trip they are required to answer the same list of questions. I traveled +from Korea into Japan with the Military Attaché of the Spanish Legation. +When we landed a Japanese officer who had known him for many years +insisted upon his answering the usual questions.</p> + +<p>"I've been in this country for ten years and yet I never go out or in +that they do not compel me to go through the same foolish police +regulations<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> which they have copied from Germany and haven't sense +enough to give up!" he said indignantly.</p> + +<p>I also traveled with a party in which there was a Methodist Bishop's +wife. This Bishop's wife absolutely refused to give the Japanese +policeman her age. Not that she had any reason to be ashamed of her age. +In fact she could easily have passed for twenty years younger than she +probably was, but she just had the average American woman's spunk and +refused to give it.</p> + +<p>For a few minutes it looked as if diplomatic relations between Japan and +America might be seriously cracked, if not broken; for the Japanese +officer had no sense of humor. That is one of the chief defects of the +Japanese police and military system. It has no sense of humor. It takes +itself too seriously. It does not know how to laugh.</p> + +<p>To the eight or ten Americans in the party the whole matter was a huge +joke and we admired the spunk of the Bishop's wife, but the poor +Japanese police officer was facing what he thought was an international +problem.</p> + +<p>Need it be said that the whole matter was finally settled to the entire +satisfaction; not of the Japanese officer, but to the entire +satisfaction of the Bishop's wife.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>A friend of mine who happens to be in business in the Orient got so +tried of being interviewed, trailed, and made to answer innumerable +questions about his mother, grandmother, etc., that one day on landing +in Yokohama, in a spirit of fun, he answered the officer's questions in +this manner:</p> + +<p>"How old are you?"</p> + +<p>"Thirty-six."</p> + +<p>"Have you a family?"</p> + +<p>"Yes."</p> + +<p>"How many children?"</p> + +<p>"Three."</p> + +<p>"How old are they?"</p> + +<p>"One is thirty-eight, one forty, and one forty-five."</p> + +<p>"What is your occupation?"</p> + +<p>"Commander-in-Chief of the Greenland Navy."</p> + +<p>"What are you doing in Japan?"</p> + +<p>"Getting a cargo of ice to take back to Greenland."</p> + +<p>After satisfying his appetite for information, the Japanese police +officer departed to make his reports, while the young American went to +his hotel with a grin all over his face.</p> + +<p>While he was eating his dinner that evening suddenly the Japanese +officer appeared in the dining room with a big smile on his face and +walked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> over to where the American sat with a group of friends.</p> + +<p>As he approached the American's table he said with a grin, "You +American! I know! You American!"</p> + +<p>"How did you guess it, my friend?"</p> + +<p>"You make me one tam fool!" he said holding out the report.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>Some of the most laughable things that one sees in the Orient are the +Japanese signs translated into English by some Japanese merchant who has +picked up a dash of English here and there.</p> + +<p>One such sign which caused a lot of amusement was that of a tailor who +was trying to cater to American Tourist trade. He had, evidently, also +had some contact with the spiritual phraseology of the missionaries. He +had painted on a big sign:</p> + +<p class="center"> +"BUY OUR PANCE!<br /> +THEY FIT YOU BETTER AND<br /> +THEY WARM YOUR LEGS LIKE THE<br /> +LOVE OF GOD!"</p> + +<p>Perhaps the most exhilaratingly humorous thing that the Japanese have +perpetrated on the Koreans was a list of advices printed and posted all +over Korea by the Police Department as to the regulation of Fords:</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p class="center">RULES!</p> + +<p>1. At the rise of hand of policeman, stop rapidly. Do not pass him by or +otherwise disrespect him.</p> + +<p>2. When a passenger of the foot hove in sight, tootle the horn trumpet +to him melodiously at first. If he still obstacles your passage, tootle +him with vigor and express by word of the mouth the warning, "hi, hi."</p> + +<p>3. Beware of the wandering horse that he shall not take fright as you +pass him. Do not explode the exhaust box at him. Go soothingly by, or +stop by the roadside till he gently pass away.</p> + +<p>4. Give big space to the festive dog that make sport in the roadway. +Avoid entanglement of dog with your wheel spokes.</p> + +<p>5. Go soothingly on the grease-mud, as there lurk the skid-demon. Press +the brake of the foot as you roll around the corners to save the +collapse and tie-up.</p> + +<p>6. Number of people you put in the Ford: You put two in the front house +and three in the back house.</p> +</div> + +<p>There were other rules but this list will be sufficient as a Flash-light +of Fun to give some idea of the ridiculous way in which the average +Japanese twists the ideas and phraseology of English in the +translations.</p> + +<p>I saw one great sign which brought a smile. It was up on the island of +Hokkaido. It had printed in large English letters:</p> + +<p class="center">"GET YOUR MOTHER'S MILK HERE!"</p> + +<p>Below that sentence there was a picture of a cow which looked as much +like a combination of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> an Elephant and a Camel as anything I know. The +artist must have been a wonder. Attached to each of the cow's udders +were long lines of hose that ran for about ten feet across a big +bill-board. At the end of each line of hose was a nipple, like our +American baby-nipples. At the end of each nipple there was a man-sized +baby pulling away at the nipple. It was one of the funniest advertising +signs I ever saw. I watched several Americans look up at it and every +one of them laughed aloud. And the funny thing about it was that it was +intended to be a serious advertising sign.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>At a banquet given in the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo one of the most +side-splitting incidents happened unintentionally that ever happened at +any banquet anywhere.</p> + +<p>One of the sons of a great Japanese business man was speaking. The +banquet was in honor of a well-known College President from America who +had come to take up work in the Orient. This banquet was to welcome him +officially to Japan.</p> + +<p>One of the speakers, sitting beside Mr. Uchida, the Foreign Minister, +had been a student in America where this man was formerly the college +president and he was trying to make the crowd see how happy he was to +welcome the president<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> to Japan. He did it in the following language as +nearly as I can remember it:</p> + +<p>"I feel like a cartoon I see in your peculiar paper—what you call +him—<i>Puck</i>? <i>Judge</i>? No—he bin in that peculiar paper, <i>Life</i>? That +was he.</p> + +<p>"This picture; he shows two dogs talking to each other.</p> + +<p>"One dog he a great, what you call him—Coolie? Pug? Yes, he was a +Scottish Coolie. The other was a little wee dog; a Pugnacious Dog, I +think you call him.</p> + +<p>"The little dog he have his tail all done up in the bandages.</p> + +<p>"The big dog say, 'Little dog, for why you have your tail all bandaged +up like that? You have an accident?'</p> + +<p>"'No,' say the little dog, 'but my master, he just come home from +France, and I am so glad to see him I bin wagging my tail all day long +until it get broke and I have to have him wrapped up like this.'"</p> + +<p>Then the speaker turned dramatically—with the deepest sense of +seriousness; without a trace of a smile on his face, without a glimmer +of consciousness of the fact that the Americans at that banquet were +biting their teeth to keep from bursting into laughter; and with a grand +flourish, pointed to the American dignitary and said, "I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> feel just like +that little dog. I so glad to see Dr. —— come to Japan that I have +been wagging my tail all day long."</p> + +<p>But he got no further. The American crowd; full-dressed, and full of +dignity as it was; exploded. That speech was too much, even for the sake +of international courtesy, to expect such a crowd to hold in. +Fortunately most of the educated Japanese there saw the joke and joined +in the laugh.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>We had a funny experience in a dining car on a Japanese train coming +from northern Japan down to Tokyo one evening.</p> + +<p>A well-dressed Japanese in a rich Kimono sat drinking heavily at a table +a few feet from us.</p> + +<p>Suddenly he looked up and yelled "Silence!" looking directly at us.</p> + +<p>It was so sudden and so funny that I laughed. This made the Japanese +gentleman angry.</p> + +<p>Then he let forth a more extended English sentence. Later we figured +that it was the only sentence in English that he knew, and that he had +learned that sentence by sitting at the feet of some stern, English +teacher who had occasion to reiterate that sentence frequently.</p> + +<p>This drunken Japanese looked at me sternly for laughing and said, +"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>This was too much for my sense of humor and I laughed again.</p> + +<p>"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!" he yelled a third time.</p> + +<p>"We must get away from him; or we'll get into trouble. I can't keep from +laughing when he repeats that," I said to Dr. Goucher.</p> + +<p>We all moved back to another table, but Dr. Goucher sat by himself at a +little table. This moving, insulted the drunken Japanese and he came +back to where Dr. Goucher sat and leered into his face yelling once +again, "All gentlemen must be silent!"</p> + +<p>At this one of the party jumped to the side of Dr. Goucher and took the +Japanese by the shoulder and turned him around and said, "Go! Sit down, +fool!"</p> + +<p>The train was whirling through the night. There were mutterings and +imprecations among the Japanese and we thought that they were directed +toward us; but a missionary who could understand the language, said that +the whole crowd of Japanese was severely reprimanding the drunken +Japanese for insulting foreigners. They told him in Japanese phrases +that he ought to be ashamed of insulting foreigners in his own country.</p> + +<p>About five minutes after this he suddenly left his seat, came staggering +down the aisle of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> the car with a plate full of big red apples and +offered an apple to each one of us as a peace offering.</p> + +<p>We got to calling him, in our party "Old Mr. 'All gentlemen must be +silent!'" and he came to be a real character in our fun.</p> + +<p>But one morning a month later as we were all boarding a train in Fusan, +Korea, bound for Seoul, who should be sitting in the car but "Old Mr. +'All gentlemen must be silent.'"</p> + +<p>This time he was in American clothes. We had a Japanese friend with us. +We told this friend about the incident on the train in northern Japan +and asked him who the man was.</p> + +<p>"Why that is a member of the House of Lords and he is going up to Korea +representing the Diet to make a report on the Korean outrages," we were +told.</p> + +<p>Another month passed and I was coming back from Seoul, Korea, to Tokio, +Japan, when I suddenly ran into our old friend "All gentlemen must be +silent!" This time he was drunk again, and sitting in a Japanese dining +car with the same Kimono on that he had worn the first time we saw him. +He saw me enter the car.</p> + +<p>I tried to avoid him, but he was not to let this opportunity for +international courtesy go by unnoticed and unimproved. So, much to my +delight and surprise, he arose, and made a low bow.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>I bowed back. He made another bow until his nose almost touched the car. +I made a return bow. He made a third one. I followed suit. He made a +fourth. I made a fourth, although I was beginning to feel dizzy and my +insides were beginning to complain.</p> + +<p>I wondered when the thing would stop. I thought of a hundred fat men I +had seen on a Gymnasium floor trying to do the same thing and touch the +floor with their hands. I knew that there was a limit to my endurance in +a test of this kind. He bowed five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten times, +and I bowed back. I could see things whirling around me.</p> + +<p>"Blame it, why doesn't he stop some time!" I said to myself.</p> + +<p>I was desperate. Then suddenly I looked at him and he looked at me and +he said, with great dignity, "All gentlemen must be silent!" and sat +down, with his friends and his wines.</p> + +<p>I don't know whether he realized how funny it was or not. I don't know +whether he even knew what he was saying in his drunken condition, but I +do know that when I got out of that car into the vestibule I had the +laugh of my life. A Japanese woman came by, smiled at me and I am sure +said to herself:</p> + +<p>"Ah, these Americans they are all crazy!"</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>The last Flash-light of Fun is a picture from the Philippines.</p> + +<p>I have spoken in the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" of the trip to +the Negrito tribe, but in that chapter I did not speak of the desperate +adventure of the trip back down the jungle trail to civilization after +the experience with the old man.</p> + +<p>For the second time on that memorable day I dropped in my tracks with a +sunstroke. My legs refused to move. My muscles were congested with waste +matter and evidently my brain was also. When I returned to consciousness +I saw lying beside me Mr. Huddleston, an old missionary who had been in +the Philippines for many years. Across from, him was a naked Negrito who +was acting as our guide.</p> + +<p>I looked up in a tree above us and saw what I thought was a group of +monkeys.</p> + +<p>"Look at the monkeys!" I said to the missionary.</p> + +<p>"There are no monkeys in that tree!" he said.</p> + +<p>That made me angry. My mind was affected by the sun to such an extent +that I had an insane desire to grab the Bolo of the Negrito guide out of +his belt and run it through the missionary. I made a determined mental +effort to do so, but my arm would not work. I strove as one strives in a +dream when he is trying to run away from some imagined danger and his +feet are tied down.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> If I could have gotten my hands on that bolo I +would have run it through the missionary without a minute's hesitation.</p> + +<p>But my mind was detracted from this thought by two large elephants which +I suddenly saw running down the path on which we were lying. I yelled +aloud!</p> + +<p>"The elephants! They will trample us man! Look! There they come!" I +cried pointing up the trail on which we were lying.</p> + +<p>"Why you're plumb crazy man! You've missed too many boats! That sun's +got you! There are no elephants on this trail!"</p> + +<p>"But I know elephants when I see them!" I cried and tried to roll out of +the trail but again found it impossible to make my brain and my muscles +coordinate. It was a terrible moment to me.</p> + +<p>"My God man! Are you crazy! I know elephants when I see them. They're +right on us now! Help me out of here! I can't move!"</p> + +<p>"I tell you there are no elephants and there are no monkeys in these +islands. I've been here twenty years or more!"</p> + +<p>"But I know elephants when I see them!"</p> + +<p>But just at that moment a much greater danger confronted us, for I saw +three tigers leap out of the jungle and start after the two <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>elephants; +right down the trail toward us. Then I knew that we were as good as +dead.</p> + +<p>I yelled: "Tigers! Tigers! They are running after the elephants! They +are on top of us!"</p> + +<p>The fool of a missionary laughed aloud, as he lay on the trail and said, +"Plumb crazy! Plumb crazy! Sun's got him! Sun's got him!"</p> + +<p>"Sun's got who, fool? The elephants and tigers will kill us in about a +minute!"</p> + +<p>But just then something happened which upset my calculations and made me +have a feeling that—after all—perhaps the old missionary was +right—for suddenly those two elephants; being too closely pursued by +the tigers; nonchalantly flew into the air like two great birds, and +lighted in the tree over our heads where I thought the monkeys were. If +those elephants hadn't started to fly; I should still be arguing with +the missionary; but as it turned out; I shut my fool mouth and decided +that the missionary was right and that I had "Missed too many boats."</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FREEDOM</small></h2> + +<p>"Self-determination!" That phrase has set the whole world on fire!</p> + +<p>"Independence!" That word somehow has awakened the Oriental world; +awakened that mass of humanity as it has never been awakened before.</p> + +<p>Korea perhaps has thrilled to this awakening as no other section of the +Orient or the Near and Far East. India's millions are restless; the +Filipino is hungry for Independence although he is loyal to the United +States; but Korea has the matter set in its heart like adamant. This +determination will never be broken; Korea will never be conquered by +Japan!</p> + +<p>This dream of complete and full independence is buried in the souls of +the children, as well as in the souls of the brave women, and of the old +men of Korea.</p> + +<p>"It is one of the most thrilling things I have ever seen in the Orient!" +said a man on the Editorial staff of <i>Millard's Weekly</i>. "It is the most +significant outcome of the war; Korea's passion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> for independence, and +the Student Movement in China!"</p> + +<p>I said to a business man of California who had traveled all over the +Orient and who had been sent as part of the Commission that prepared the +way for the abandonment of the Picture Bride custom, "What is the most +significant thing you have seen in the Orient?"</p> + +<p>"The determination of the Koreans for Self-determination!" was his quick +reply.</p> + +<p>"Will they get it?"</p> + +<p>"It is inevitable in time!" he responded, and then he added: "Why the +little rascals; the children, I mean; paint the Korean flags on their +brown bellies, because the Japanese gendarmes will not allow them to +display the Korean flag in public!" and he laughed aloud at the memory.</p> + +<p>"Have you seen Korean kiddies with flags painted on their stomachs?"</p> + +<p>"Dozens of them. They like to show them to Americans," he said.</p> + +<p>A week later I was walking with a Korean missionary and asked him if +what the business man from California had told me about the children was +true and he said, "Wait until we find a group of them."</p> + +<p>We waited for only a few minutes when we ran into a crowd coming home +from school. A<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> friendly smile and a low-voiced "Mansei" got attention.</p> + +<p>Then we pointed to our own stomachs.</p> + +<p>In a flash they caught on to what we wanted and, looking around +cautiously, each little rascal untied his robe and there, sure enough +was the flag of his country painted on his stomach.</p> + +<p>"That is one of the most thrilling sights I have seen in the Orient!" I +said with tears in my eyes. "If the children of the land feel that way, +Korea will never be conquered!"</p> + +<p>"The American understands! The American understands!" one of the little +bright-eyed boys said to the missionary in Korean.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>A missionary was teaching a class of Koreans about Heaven.</p> + +<p>A little hand shot up.</p> + +<p>The missionary nodded that the child could speak.</p> + +<p>"Will there be any Japs in Heaven?"</p> + +<p>This was a baffling question; for diplomatic destinies were at stake. +But missionaries are usually honest, so she said, "Yes, if they are good +Japs!"</p> + +<p>"Then I don't want to go!" said the little eight-year-old Korean with +emphasis.</p> + +<p>Another teacher was telling a class in Geography to draw a map of the +Orient.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>One Korean child said, "Do we have to put in that little group of +islands east of the coast of China?"</p> + +<p>I met one Korean whom I had known in America. He was educated in the +American universities. He was in every sense of the word a gentleman and +an intellectual.</p> + +<p>He told me that the older children of his family had taught the +nine-months-old baby to raise its hands in the air above its head +whenever the word "Mansei" was spoken.</p> + +<p>I got an electrical shock of patriotism the day I saw that tiny child +lift its little arms above its head when that sacred word was spoken. It +was like a benediction of freedom!</p> + +<p>"This posture of the child is more significant," said Mr. ——, "when +you know that the most cruel method of torture that the Japanese use is +that of stretching a man, woman or child up by the thumbs to the ceiling +with his toes just touching the floor."</p> + +<p>In that same posture of torture Koreans rise to their toes when they +give their national cry of "Mansei" for all the world like an American +student giving his college yell.</p> + +<p>"It means life and death to give that cry as you know," said this +intelligent Korean.</p> + +<p>"Then what will your children do when they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> grow a bit older and go out +on the streets and yell this cry?" I asked this intelligent father.</p> + +<p>"Be killed, no doubt, by some ignorant, ruthless Japanese gendarme!" he +said with finality.</p> + +<p>"Then you should not allow them to teach its tiny lips that word!" I +said.</p> + +<p>"I would rather my child were dead than to have it forget that cry!"</p> + +<p>In this same family one Sunday afternoon a two-year-old child was +sleeping on a mat. The father and mother were reading some American +papers sent them by their old college friends in the United States.</p> + +<p>Suddenly that little two-year-old sat straight up in its mat bed, lifted +its arms in the air and shouted "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!" three times +and then dropped back to sleep as if nothing had happened.</p> + +<p>"How did you feel?" I asked my Korean friend.</p> + +<p>"It made me cry. I said to my wife 'As long as Korea has babies with +that in their little souls before they are two years of age, Korea will +never be assimilated by Japan!'"</p> + +<p>The children of Korea look up at the ceiling when a Japanese teacher +enters a room. They are compelled to have Japanese teachers; even in the +mission schools. The children refuse to do anything for a Japanese +teacher.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>One day a Japanese teacher thought that he would break that mood by +telling a funny story. He told it with skill.</p> + +<p>But not a child laughed, although one of them said to her father that +night, "It was hard not to laugh for it was a very funny story!"</p> + +<p>"Who tells you to do these things; you students? Who teaches you to +treat your Japanese teachers in that manner?" my Korean friend asked his +six-year-old child.</p> + +<p>"Nobody tells us; we just do it ourselves! All the children hate the +Japanese!" he replied with the wisdom of a grown man.</p> + +<p>All over Korea we saw Korean flags cut in walls, carved on stones, and +against excavations where the sand was impressionable to little fingers +and sticks. I took many photographs of these unconventional flags.</p> + +<p>There is one instance where Korean children went on a strike just at +Commencement time. It meant that they would not get their diplomas but +that was just the reason they did it: to show their contempt for +Japanese diplomas.</p> + +<p>Japanese authorities begged them to return to school.</p> + +<p>Finally on Commencement Day they decided to return.</p> + +<p>Something had happened.</p> + +<p>It was a day of rejoicing among the Japanese<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> so they invited a lot of +Japanese officers to the Commencement exercises.</p> + +<p>The diplomas were given, to each boy; the Japanese teachers bowing, and +smiling in their peculiar way.</p> + +<p>Then a thirteen-year-old Korean boy stepped to the front to make the +address of thanks. He made a beautiful speech of thanks. The Japanese +teachers were bowing with delight.</p> + +<p>But the boy's speech was not finished. He paused toward the end, threw +back his blouse, lifted his proud head and said, "I have only this one +thing further to add."</p> + +<p>He knew the seriousness of what he was about to do. He knew that it +would possibly mean death to him and his relatives.</p> + +<p>"We want but one thing of you Japanese. You have given us education, and +you have given us these diplomas. The teachers have been good to us."</p> + +<p>Then he reached in his blouse and pulled out a Korean flag. To have one +in one's possession is a crime in Korea in the judgment of the Japanese.</p> + +<p>Waving it above his little head he cried, "Give us back our country! May +Korea live a thousand years! Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!"</p> + +<p>At that signal every boy in that school jumped to his feet, whipped out +a Korean flag and frantically waved it in the air, weeping and yelling +in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> wild abandonment to the faith and courage of freedom in their +hearts!</p> + +<p>Then they tore their diplomas up before the horrified and angered +Japanese teachers.</p> + +<p>The result was a great student demonstration for freedom; which was +broken up by a force of Japanese gendarmes with drawn swords; but not +before the shooting of many boys and girls; and not before over four +hundred girls and boys were thrown into prison; some of them never to +emerge.</p> + +<p>In the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" I told the story of the +seventy-five-year-old Korean who unflinchingly faced the Japanese +gendarmes and admitted that he knew the source from which the +Independence Movement had come; and knew the signers of the Declaration +personally; every one of them. This spirit burns in the heart of, not +only the babies of Korea but also in the souls of the white haired +stately patriarchs.</p> + +<p>One old man who was dumb had his own way of expressing his patriotism +when "Mansei" was yelled. He always lifted his arms above his head. He +could not speak but he could yell with his arms!</p> + +<p>This placed the Japanese authorities in the ridiculous position of +arresting a dumb man for yelling "Mansei!"</p> + +<p>They tortured him for months. He was told<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> that he would be released if +he would promise never to lift his hands above his head again.</p> + +<p>He could not speak in answer to their demands. They waited.</p> + +<p>Suddenly he caught their meaning. They were trying to frighten him from +giving vent to his only method of showing his patriotism.</p> + +<p>His eyes flashed fire. He leapt to his feet with a contemptuous look at +his Japanese captors.</p> + +<p>Then like flashing piston rods of steel his arms shot into the air above +his head three times, shouting in their mute patriotism, "Mansei! +Mansei! Mansei!"</p> + +<p>Nor are the women void of this determination for freedom. It beats in +their brave hearts. It is a great flame in their souls as well as in the +hearts of the children and men of the peninsula.</p> + +<p>"The soul's armor is never set well to heart unless a woman's hand has +braced it, and it is only when she braces it loosely that the honor of +manhood fails!" says Robert McKenna in "The Adventure of Life."</p> + +<p>If that is a true definition of the strength of honor and the desire for +freedom then the armor of the Korean men is well set.</p> + +<p>Sauci, a young Korean girl was under arrest. She was just a school girl +and very beautiful; with dark brown eyes; skin the color of a walnut; +and a form, bred of the grace of her much walking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> race. She had walked +the innumerable trails of her native land from babyhood and the rhythmic +swing of her supple body would have made any race, save that of her +conquerors, reverent with admiration.</p> + +<p>Sauci was too much for her Japanese captors.</p> + +<p>The Japanese guard struck her across the mouth with a whip.</p> + +<p>"That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I don't hate you for +that blow!" said Sauci.</p> + +<p>This angered the Jap and he struck her again. This stroke left a streak +of blood across her face.</p> + +<p>Sauci said again, "That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I do +not hate you for striking me!"</p> + +<p>The gendarme was furious. His anger was like that of a beast. He flew at +her blindly, and struck, struck, struck her woman's body until he was +exhausted.</p> + +<p>A few days later when she was recovering from that brutal beating, a +high official of the Japanese gendarme force came to see her.</p> + +<p>"Sauci," said he to her, recognizing her for an intelligent Korean girl, +"why do not the Koreans like us?"</p> + +<p>She replied, "I had a dream last night here in the cell. That will tell +you why. In my dream a visitor came to our home and stayed for dinner.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +Then instead of going home, the visitor stayed all night. Then the +visitor stayed two or three days. Then two or three months. Then two or +three years. We were surprised but were too polite to say anything.</p> + +<p>"But finally the visitor got to telling us how to run our house."</p> + +<p>"How?" asked the Japanese official, "Did the visitor tell you how to run +your house?"</p> + +<p>"The visitor," replied Sauci, "told us that he didn't like our wall +paper. 'I think you had better get new paper!' he said. 'I do not like +your clothes and your schools. Wear clothes like mine, and have schools +like mine. I do not like your way of talking. Learn my language!'</p> + +<p>"So finally we got tired of our visitor and said, 'Please go home! WE do +not like you! We do not want you! Please go home!'"</p> + +<p>"But what has that to do with us?" said the Japanese official.</p> + +<p>"Why in a few days the visitor in my dream went home!" said Sauci +simply. "And in a few years the Japanese will go back home also!" Such +is the courageous spirit of the Korean women.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>One day an American friend of mine had gone to the Police Station with a +young Korean girl who had been summoned to appear on what was called a +"rearrest charge."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span>For the Japanese feel perfectly free to rearrest a person even after +that person has been proven innocent of a charge. A Korean may be +rearrested any time. He can never feel free.</p> + +<p>This young, educated girl had been subjected to such indignities on her +previous arrest as I would not be able to describe in this book; so she +begged the woman friend to go with her.</p> + +<p>As she entered the station a rough, ignorant Japanese officer snarled at +her as she passed, "Hello! Are you here again? I thought you were still +in prison!"</p> + +<p>When he had gone from the room the Korean girl said to the American +woman, "That man beat me for ten hours one day the last time I was in +prison!"</p> + +<p>"Why did he beat you?" asked the missionary.</p> + +<p>"He was trying to compel me to give him the names of those girls who +belonged to the 'Woman's League'."</p> + +<p>"And you would not tell him their names?"</p> + +<p>"I would rather have been beaten to death than give him their names!"</p> + +<p>"Thank God for your courage!" said the missionary, for she had seen the +girl's body when she had gotten out of prison; the burns of cigarette +stumps all over her beautiful skin; the scars, the whip marks; the +desecrations.</p> + +<p>When I was told this story, amid the tears of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> the narrator, an American +college woman, she concluded with fire in her soul: "I have never seen +such courage on the part of women in all my life! Even mere girls and +children have it. Most of those who are arrested come out of our +American Missionary schools. There isn't a one of them who doesn't have +in her soul the spirit of Joan of Arc. If France had one Joan of Arc, +Korea has ten thousand!"</p> + +<p>One young girl of whom I heard was kept in prison under constant torture +for six months. And a cruel imprisonment it is. I visited this prison +myself one winter day when I was in Korea. The thermometer was at zero; +the snow covered the ground, and there wasn't a fire in a single room in +that prison save where the Japanese guards were staying, and they were +huddled around a roaring coal stove.</p> + +<p>And this is the show prison of the whole Peninsula. The Japanese take +visitors through it. But to an American even it is fit only for the +darkness of the Middle Ages.</p> + +<p>In its limited quarters I saw ten and fifteen young girls, sweet faced, +cultured, educated school girls, huddled together in narrow rooms, +without a single chair, so closely packed that they were seated on the +floor like bees in a hive.</p> + +<p>After six months of this awful life the girl of whom I speak was about +to be released.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>The guard questioned her. "Now what are you going to do?"</p> + +<p>Her answer came, quick as a shot, although she knew that it would send +her back to the hell from which she was about to be released.</p> + +<p>"It is either liberty for Korea or we die!" she said.</p> + +<p>And in three minutes, beaten, and dragged on the ground by the hair she +was thrown into the cell from which she had been taken; to rot and die +as far as the Japanese were concerned.</p> + +<p>Another girl who had been kept in jail 135 days without even a charge +having been preferred against her was released. Her old mother came to +meet her and while in Seoul the mother attended an Independence Meeting +for women. The whole crowd of women then went to the Police Station and +shouted "Mansei"!</p> + +<p>The mother was arrested and cruelly beaten in spite of her seventy-five +years of age.</p> + +<p>When they were through beating her they said, "Now will you refrain from +yelling, 'Mansei!'"</p> + +<p>"Never!" said this old woman.</p> + +<p>Then they took a bar of iron and beat her over the legs until she +dropped.</p> + +<p>"Now will you refrain from yelling 'Mansei?'"</p> + +<p>The old woman was weak, but in a low, painful whisper said, "The next +time the women come to yell, if I am able to walk I will be with them!"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span>Another old woman was brought to prison for yelling "Mansei!" When they +asked her why she yelled "Mansei" she answered in a sentence that sums +up the entire spirit that is in the woman-heart of Korea.</p> + +<p>"I have only one word in my head and that is 'Mansei!'"</p> + +<p>I personally, one day in Korea, saw the Japanese gendarmes come for a +Korean girl. She was one of the most popular girls in the American +Methodist Missionary School.</p> + +<p>It was the common custom for Japanese officials to come and take Korean +girls out of these schools, without warning, without warrants, without +words, and carry them off to prison.</p> + +<p>Often the girl was not even permitted to say good-by to her American +teachers or to write a word to her parents.</p> + +<p>"They are not even permitted to supply themselves with toilet articles," +said the matron to me that day.</p> + +<p>On this day, six big, brutal, ugly faced, animal-like Japanese officers +came for this beautiful girl.</p> + +<p>The missionary women wept as the girl was dragged away. The girl waved +good-by.</p> + +<p>It was a sight never to be forgotten; one of those Flash-lights of +Freedom, which burned its way into my soul with the hot acid of +indignation. This injustice and indecency in the treatment<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> of a pure +girl made my blood run hot in my veins.</p> + +<p>The look on her face I shall never forget. It was such a look as the +martyrs of old must have had when they died for their faith.</p> + +<p>"Good-by! Good-by! Give my love to Mary and Elizabeth!" she cried to the +missionary woman standing by, helpless to assist her. These two names +were children of the missionary home; children whom this Korean girl had +learned to love as she lived in this American home.</p> + +<p>"And the awful thing about it all, is," said the missionary to me as +they took the girl away, "that, as pure as that girl is, as pure as a +flower, she will be taken to a prison fifty miles from Seoul, kept there +under torture for six months, and she will not be allowed to see her +friends. They will not even allow us to visit her. She may be undressed +and spat upon by men who are lower than animals. She may suffer even +worse than that——"</p> + +<p>Then the American missionary woman fainted.</p> + +<p>That flash-light may be duplicated a hundred times in Korea.</p> + +<p>"The woman of Korea suffers as much as the man. But thank God they do +not flinch!" said an American missionary.</p> + +<p>The Japanese Gendarmes have forbidden the singing of several of the +great church hymns in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> mission churches because they insist that these +are hymns of Freedom; that they foment what the Japanese call "Dangerous +Ideas." Japanese spies have reported certain Seoul Methodist churches +for singing hymns that, to their way of thinking, were directed against +the Japanese Government. This particular illustration of the peculiar +workings of the Japanese mind might have been included in the chapter on +Flash-lights of Fun; were it not for the fact that the Japanese officers +themselves call these old church hymns "Hymns of Freedom."</p> + +<p>The Japanese are just as much afraid of these "Dangerous Thoughts" in +Japan as they are in Korea. A good illustration of this fear is the fact +that a certain picture corporation of America called "The Liberty Film +Company" sent several films to Japan. The Government would not allow +these pictures to be shown until that word "Liberty" was cut from the +film.</p> + +<p>Certain Japanese spies reported a Mission church in Seoul for singing +"Rock of Ages."</p> + +<p>"But why may we not sing 'Rock of Ages'?" asked the American preacher in +charge.</p> + +<p>"Because it starts off with 'Mansei!'" replied the officer.</p> + +<p>He interpreted the thought of "Rock of Ages" to be a direct imputation +that the Japanese Government was not able to take care of the Koreans<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +and that they were flying to some other protecting power.</p> + +<p>"It would be funny if it were not so serious!" said a missionary to me +one day in Seoul.</p> + +<p>Later they stopped the churches from singing "Nearer My God to Thee," +because there seemed to be an implication in that, that those who sang +that hymn, were swearing allegiance to a higher power than that of +Japan.</p> + +<p>"Ridiculous! Absolutely ridiculous!" I said in disgust.</p> + +<p>"Yes, ridiculous, but serious," replied the missionary, "when you have +to live with it year in and year out."</p> + +<p>"Crown Him Lord of All," insisted the Japanese spies, when they +seriously reported a certain church for singing that old hymn was +"Dangerous Thought." It seemed to this ignorant spy that "Crowning Him" +was putting some other power before that of the Japanese Government.</p> + +<p>"All Hail the Power of Jesus' Name" has been put under the ban and when +a certain missionary woman was asked to sing at the Korean Y.M.C.A. and +announced that she was going to sing "Oh, Rest in the Lord" she was +advised not to sing it because it was considered by the gendarmes to be +"Dangerous Thought" and to suggest "Liberty," "Freedom" and such +dangerous words and ideas.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span>When one Protestant preacher prayed about "Casting Out Devils" he was +reported by Japanese spies, who insisted that he was talking about +Japanese in Korea and meant that these should be cast out of the land.</p> + +<p>"'It is to laugh!' as the French say!" I responded to this story.</p> + +<p>"No! It is to weep!" said the American missionary.</p> + +<p>When Dr. Frank W. Schoefield spoke against Prostitution the Japanese +papers declared that he had made a virulent attack on the Government.</p> + +<p>One Korean preacher who preached on a theme from Luke 4:18, which reads +"Setting the captives free," was arrested and kept in jail for four +days.</p> + +<p>"It is very foolish to yell 'Mansei' when you know you will be killed," +I said to a Korean preacher. I wanted to see how he would take that +suggestion.</p> + +<p>"We Koreans would rather be under the ground than on top of it if we do +not get our liberty!" he said with a thrill in his quiet voice.</p> + +<p>One day a Korean preacher was arrested for preaching on the theme, "Seek +ye first the Kingdom of God and all these things shall be added unto +you," because that was, without doubt, disloyal to Japan and meant +rebellion.</p> + +<p>Another day a speaker in the Y.M.C.A. said,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> "Arise and let us build for +the new age!" He was asked to report to Police Headquarters just what he +meant by that kind of "Dangerous" talk about Freedom.</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAILURE</small></h2> + + +<p>Three great Flash-lights of Failure stand out in the Far East and the +Oriental world to-day; one being the failure of a race to survive, +another being the failure of the world to understand that Shantung is +the Holy Land and not the appendix of China; this sacred shrine of the +Chinese which has so carelessly and listlessly been given over to Japan; +and the third being Japan's failure to understand that methods of +barbarism from the Dark Ages will not work in a modern civilization.</p> + +<p>"Why are they making all this fuss over Shantung?" an acquaintance of +mine said to me just before I left America. "Isn't it just a sort of an +appendix of China, after all? If I were the Chinese, I'd forget Shantung +and go on to centralize and develop what I had."</p> + +<p>That was glibly said, but the fact which the statement leaves out of +reckoning is that Shantung is the very heart and soul of China instead +of being the appendix.</p> + +<p>The average American has so often thought of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> China just as China; a +great, big, indefinite, far-off nation of four hundred million people, +always stated in round numbers, that Shantung doesn't mean much to us. +Yes, but it means much to China.</p> + +<p>It means about the same as if some nation should come along and take New +England from us; New England, the seat of all our most sacred history, +the beginning of our national life, the oldest of our traditions, the +burial-place of our early founders, the seat of our religious genesis. I +don't believe that many folks in New England would desire to be called +an appendix of the United States.</p> + +<p>So one of the things that I was determined to do when I went to China +was to go from one end of Shantung to the other, talking with coolies, +officials, old men and young men, students, and those who can neither +read nor write; missionaries and soldiers; natives and foreigners; to +see just what importance Shantung is to China as a whole.</p> + +<p>The first thing I discovered was that it has about forty million people +living within the limits of the peninsula, close to half the population +of the United States. Does that sound as if it might be China's +appendix? You wouldn't think so if you saw the cities, roads and fields +of this great stretch of land literally swarming with human<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> beings, and +every last one of them, as busy as ants.</p> + +<p>I rode one whole day across the peninsula. I happened to be traveling +with a man from Kansas. He was a man interested in farming and +wheat-growing. For hundreds of miles we had been passing through land +that was absolutely level and every inch of it cultivated. I had been +saying to myself over and over again, "Why, it's exactly like our Middle +West Country."</p> + +<p>Then much to my astonishment this Kansas man turned to me, and said, +"Did it ever occur to you that these fields of Shantung look just like +Kansas?"</p> + +<p>"Yes, it has just occurred to me this minute," I responded.</p> + +<p>Then the wife of the Kansas man said, "I have been shutting my eyes and +trying to imagine that I was in Kansas, it's so much like home."</p> + +<p>"And say, man, but a tractor on those fields would work wonders," added +a portion of William Allen White's reading constituency.</p> + +<p>And that is exactly how Shantung strikes an American when he has ridden +all day through its great stretches of level fields. He can easily +imagine himself riding through Kansas for a day.</p> + +<p>My first visit to Shantung was at Tsingtao, the headquarters of the +German concession and now of the Japanese concession. I spent a day +there,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> and took photographs of the wharves and town. On the wharves +were still standing hundreds of boxes marked with German names and the +inevitable phrase "Made in Germany." Those boxes were mute reminders of +the evacuation of one nation from a foreign soil. But standing side by +side with these boxes were also other hundreds, already being shot into +Shantung in a steady stream; and these boxes have a new trademark +printed in every case in English and Japanese, "Made in Japan."</p> + +<p>I spent several days in Tsinanfu and Tientsin, two great inland cities, +and more than a week in cruising about through Shantung's little towns, +its villages and its sacred spots.</p> + +<p>I heard of its mines and of its physical wealth. But the world already +knows of that. The world already knows that this physical wealth of +mines and raw material was what made it look good to Germany and Japan. +But the thing that impressed me was its spiritual wealth.</p> + +<p>The thing that makes Shantung attractive to the Japanese, of course, is +not the spiritual wealth, as the world well knows. Perhaps the Japanese +have never considered the latter any more than the Germans did; but the +one thing that makes it most sacred to the Chinese, who are, after all, +a race of idealists, is its treasuries of spiritual memories and +shrines.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>In the first place, many Chinese will tell you that it is the "cradle of +the Chinese race." I am not sure that histories will confirm this +statement. And I am also not sure that that makes any difference as long +as the idea is buried in the heart of the Chinese people. A tradition +often means as much to a race as a fact. And the tradition certainly is +well established that Shantung is the birthplace of all Chinese history. +So that is one of the deeply rooted spiritual facts that makes Shantung +sacred to the Chinese.</p> + +<p>The second spiritual gold mine is that one of its cities, Chufu, is the +birthplace and the last resting-place of the sage Confucius. And China +is literally impregnated with Confusian philosophy and Confucian +sayings.</p> + +<p>I took a trip to this shrine in order to catch some of the spiritual +atmosphere of the Shantung loss. The trip made it necessary to tramp +about fifteen miles coming and going through as dusty a desert as I ever +saw, but that was a trifle compared with the thrill that I had as I +stood at last before the little mound about as high as a California +bungalow; the mound that held the dust of this great Chinese sage. +During the war I stood before the grave of Napoleon in France. Before I +went to France I visited Grant's tomb. I have also stood many times +beside a little mound in West Virginia, the resting-place of my mother,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> +and I think that I know something of the sacredness of such experiences +to a human heart, but somehow the thrill that came to me on that January +morning, warm with sunlight, spicy with winter cold, produced a feeling +too deep for mere printed words to convey.</p> + +<p>"If we feel as we do standing here on this sacred spot, think of how the +Chinese feel toward their own sage!" said an old missionary of the +party.</p> + +<p>"Yes," added another, "and remember that the Chinese revere their +ancestors and their sages and their shrines more than we ever dream of +doing. Any grave is a sacred spot to them, so much so that railroads +have to run their trunk lines for miles in a detour to avoid graves. +These Chinese are idealists of the first water. They live in the past, +and they dream of the future."</p> + +<p>"When you get these facts into your American heads," added a third +member of the party, not without some bitterness, "then you will begin +to know that the Chinese do not estimate the loss of Shantung in terms +of mineral wealth."</p> + +<p>At Chufu, the resting-place of Confucius, there is also the spot of his +birth, and this too is most sacred to the Chinese nation. We visited +both places. I think that I never before quite realized just what the +loss of Shantung meant to these Chinese until that day, unless it was +the next day,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> when we climbed the sacred mountain Taishan, which is +also in Shantung.</p> + +<p>"It is the oldest worshiping-place in the world," said the historian of +the party. "There is no other spot on earth where continuous worship has +gone on so long. Here for more than twenty centuries before Christ was +born men and women were worshiping. Emperors from the oldest history of +China down to the present time have all visited this mountain to +worship. Confucius himself climbed the more than six thousand steps to +worship here."</p> + +<p>"Yes," said another missionary historian, "and this mountain is referred +to twelve separate times in the Chinese classics, and great pilgrimages +were made here as long ago as two centuries before Christ."</p> + +<p>That day we climbed the mountain up more than six thousand stone steps, +which are in perfect condition and which were engineered thousands of +years ago by early worshipers.</p> + +<p>The only climb with which I can compare that of Mt. Taishan is that of +Mt. Tamalpais overlooking San Francisco. The climb is about equal to +that. The mountain itself is about a mile in height, and the climb is a +hard one to those who are unaccustomed to mountain-climbing, and yet +thousands upon thousands climb it every year after pilgrimages from all +over China.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>We climbed to the top of Taishan, and saw the "No-Character Stone" +erected by Emperor Chin, he who tried to drive learning out of China +hundreds of years ago. We saw the spot on which Confucius stood, and +glimpsed the Pacific Ocean, ninety miles away, on a clear day. It was a +hard climb; but, when one stood on the top of this, the most sacred +mountain of all China, he began to understand the spiritual loss that is +China's when her worshiping-place is in the hands of aliens.</p> + +<p>"And don't forget that Mencius, the first disciple of Confucius, was +born and died in Shantung, too, when you are taking census of the +spiritual values of Shantung to the Chinese," was a word of caution from +the old missionary who was checking up on my facts for me. He had been +laboring in China for a quarter of a century.</p> + +<p>"And don't forget that the Boxer uprising originated in Shantung, and +don't forget that it is called, and has been for centuries, 'the Sacred +Province' by the Chinese. It is their 'Holy Land.' And don't forget +that, from Shantung, coolies went to South Africa in the early part of +this century and that the Chinese from Shantung were the first to get in +touch with the western world. And don't forget that nine-tenths of the +coolies who went to help in the war in France were from Shantung!" he +added with emphasis. This was a thing that I well knew, for I had, only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> +a few weeks before this, seen two thousand coolies unloaded from the +<i>Empress of Asia</i> at Tsingtao.</p> + +<p>No, Shantung is not an appendix of China, as many Americans suppose; but +it is the very heart and soul of China. It is China's "Holy Land." It is +the "Cradle of China." It is the "Sacred Province of China." It is the +shrine of her greatest sage. It is the home of "the oldest +worshiping-place on earth." It is because of its spiritual values that +China is unhappy about the loss of Shantung, and not because of its +wealth of material things.</p> + +<p>The failure of the world to understand what Shantung means to China and +the failure of Japan to understand that they cannot for many years stand +out against the indignation of the entire world in continuing to keep +Shantung is one of the great spiritual failures of the Far East in our +century.</p> + +<p>The second great failure is the tragic failure of an entire race of +people; that of the Ainu Indians of Japan.</p> + +<p>It is a pathetic thing to see a human race dying out; coming to "The End +of the Trail." But I was determined to see them, in spite of the fact +that people told me I would have to travel from one end of Japan to the +other; and then cross four hours of sea before I got to Hokkaido, the +most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> northern island of Japan, where lived the tattered remnants of +this once noble race.</p> + +<p>The name of this dying race is pronounced as if it were spelled I-new +with a long I.</p> + +<p>These are the people who inhabited Japan before the present Japanese +entered the land from Korea and drove them, inch by inch, back and north +and west across Japan. It was a stubborn fight, and it has lasted many +centuries; but to-day they have been driven up on the island of +Hokkaido, that northern frontier of Japan where the overflow of Japan is +pouring at the rate of four thousand a year, making two million to date +and only about fifty thousand of them Ainus.</p> + +<p>"Are they like our American Indians in looks, since their history is so +much like them?" I asked my missionary friend.</p> + +<p>"Wait until you see them, and decide for yourself. I know very little +about American Indians."</p> + +<p>So one morning at three o'clock, after traveling for two days and nights +from one end of Japan to the other, and then crossing a strait between +the Japan Sea and the Pacific Ocean to the island, we climbed from our +train, and landed in a little country railroad station.</p> + +<p>It was blowing a blizzard, and the snow crashed into our faces with +stinging, whip-like snaps.</p> + +<p>I was appointed stoker for the small stove in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> the station while the +rest of the party tried to sleep on the benches arranged in a circle, +huddled as close as they could get to the stove.</p> + +<p>We were the first party of foreigners of this size that had ever honored +the village with a visit. And in addition to that we had come at an +unearthly hour.</p> + +<p>Who but a group of insane foreigners would drop into a town at three +o'clock in the morning with a blizzard blowing? Either we were insane, +or we had some sinister motives. Perhaps we were making maps of the +seacoast.</p> + +<p>And before daylight half of the town was peeking in through the windows +at us. Then the policemen came. They were Japanese policemen, and did +not take any chances on us. Even after our interpreter had told them +that we were a group of scientists who had come to visit the Ainus they +still followed us around most of the morning, keeping polite track of +our movements.</p> + +<p>About five o'clock that morning, as I was trying to catch a cat-nap, the +newsboys of the village came to get the morning papers which had come in +on the train on which we had arrived. They unbundled the papers in the +cold station; their breath forming clouds of vapor; laughing and joking +as they unrolled, folded and counted the papers; and arranged their +routes for morning delivery.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>It took me back to boyhood days down in West Virginia. I did the same +thing as these Japanese boys were doing. I, too, arose before daylight, +climbed out of bed, and went whistling through the dark streets to the +station where the early morning trains dumped off the papers from the +city. I, too, along with several other American boys of a winter +morning, breathed clouds of vapor into the air, stamped my feet to keep +them warm, and whipped my hands against my sides. I, too, unwrapped the +big bundles of papers, and did it in the same way in which these +Japanese boys did, by smashing the tightly bound wrappers on the floor +until they burst. I, too, counted, folded, put in inserts, arranged my +paper-route and darted out into the frosty air with the snow crunching +under my feet. How universal some things are. The only difference was +that these boys were dressed in a sort of buccaneer uniform. They had on +high leather boots, and belts around their coats that made them look as +if they had stepped out of a Richard Harding Davis novel. But otherwise +they went through the same processes as an American boy in a small town.</p> + +<p>When the vanguard of villagers had come to inspect us, they at first +tried to talk Russian to us. They had never seen any other kind of +foreigners.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> They had never seen Americans in this far-off island.</p> + +<p>When daylight came, we started out on a long tramp to the Ainu villages. +They were a mile or two away on the ocean. These people always build +near the sea if they can. Fishing is one of their main sources of food.</p> + +<p>We spent the day in their huts. They live like animals. A big, square +hut covered with rice straw and thatch, with a fence of the same kind of +straw running around the house, forms the residence. The only fire is in +the middle of the only room, and this consists of a pile of wood burning +on a flat stone or piece of metal in the center. There is no chimney in +the roof, and not even an opening such as the American Indians had in +the tops of their tepees. I do not know how they live. The smoke finds +its way gradually through cracks in the walls and roofs. One can hardly +find a single Ainu whose eyes are not ruined. The smoke has done this +damage.</p> + +<p>The only opening in their houses besides the door is one north window, +and it is never closed. In fact, there is no window. It is only an +opening.</p> + +<p>"Why is that? I'd think they would freeze on a day like this," I said to +the guide.</p> + +<p>"They keep it that way all winter, and it gets a good deal below zero +here," he said.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>"But why do they do it?" old Shylock demanded.</p> + +<p>"It is part of their religion. They believe that the god comes in that +window. They want it open, so that he can come in whenever he wishes. It +offends them greatly when you stick your head through that window."</p> + +<p>Pat tried it just to see what would happen, just like a man who looks +into the barrel of a gun, or a man who takes a watch apart, or wants to +hit a "dud" with a hammer just to see whether it is a dud. The result +was bad. There was a sudden series of outlandish yells from the +household. I think that every man, woman and child, including the dogs, +of which there were many, started at once. I wonder now how Pat escaped +alive, and only under the assumption that "the good die young" can I +explain his escape.</p> + +<p>I wanted some arrows to take to America as souvenirs; and, when an old +Indian pulled out a lot of metal arrows on long bows with which he had +killed more than a hundred bears, I was not satisfied. They were not the +kind of arrows I wanted.</p> + +<p>"What kind are you looking for?" I was asked.</p> + +<p>"Flint arrow-heads," I responded.</p> + +<p>"Why, man, these Indians have known the use of metals for five hundred +years. The stone<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> age with them is half a thousand years in the past."</p> + +<p>"Have they a history?" I wanted to know.</p> + +<p>My interpreter, who has much knowledge of these things, having worked +among them for years, said, "All of the Japanese mythology is centered +about the battles that took place when these Indians were driven out of +Japan proper step by step."</p> + +<p>I was surprised to find that they were white people compared with the +Japanese who were their conquerors. There are other marked differences. +The Ainus are broad between the eyes instead of narrow as are the +Japanese. They are rather square-headed like Americans as compared with +the oval of the Japanese face. They do not have markedly slant eyes, and +they are white-skinned. They might feel at home in any place in America. +I have seen many old men at home who look like them, old men with +beards. This came as a distinct surprise to me.</p> + +<p>At each house, just in front of the ever-open window of which I have +spoken, there is a little crude shrine. It is more like a small fence +than anything that I know, a most crude affair made of broken bamboo +poles. Flowers and vines are planted here to beautify this shrine, and +every pole has a bear-skull on it. The more bear-skulls<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> you have, the +safer you are and the more religious you have become.</p> + +<p>Pat was sacrilegious enough to steal a skull in order to get the teeth, +which he wanted as souvenirs. I was chagrined and shocked at Pat's lack +of religious propriety. However, I was enticed into accepting one of the +teeth after Pat had knocked them out and stolen them.</p> + +<p>"How do they worship bears and kill them at the same time?" I queried +the guide.</p> + +<p>"That's a part of the worship. They kill the bear, slowly singing and +chanting as they kill him. They think that the spirit of every bear that +they kill comes into their own souls. That's why they kill so many. That +seventy-year-old rascal over there has killed a hundred. He is a great +man in his tribe."</p> + +<p>"If I was a bear," commented Pat, "I'd rather they wouldn't worship me. +That's a funny way to show reverence to a god. I'd rather be their devil +and live than be their god and die." Pat is sometimes loquacious. "They +dance about the poor old bear as they kill him. One fellow will hurl an +arrow into his side, and then cry out, 'O spirit of the great bear-god, +come enter into me, and make me strong and brave like you! Come, take up +thine abode in my house! Come, be a part of me! Let thy strength and thy +courage be my strength and my courage!'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>"</p> + +<p>"Then," said the interpreter, "he hurls another arrow into him."</p> + +<p>"And what is Mr. Bear doing all that time?"</p> + +<p>"Mr. Bear is helpless. He is captured first in a trap, and then kept and +fattened for the killing. He is tied to a tree during the killing +ceremony."</p> + +<p>"All I gotta say is that they're darned poor sports," said Flintlock +with indignation. "They're poor sports not to give Mr. Bear a fighting +chance."</p> + +<p>And old Flintlock has voiced the sentiments of the entire party.</p> + +<p>Everybody that was at the Panama Pacific International Exposition will +remember the magnificent statue of an Indian there. This Indian was +riding a horse, and both were worn out and drooping. A spear which +dragged on the ground in front of the pony was further evidence of the +weariness of the horse and rider. The title of this Fraser bronze was +"The End of the Trail," and it was intended to tell the story of a +vanishing race, the American Indians. But even more could that picture +tell the story of the Ainus of Japan.</p> + +<p>"They will be entirely extinct in a quarter of a century," our guide +said. "They are going fast. They used to be vigorous and militant, as +Japanese mythology shows. They were a fighting race. They built their +houses by the sea. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> used to go out for miles to fish, but now they +are so petered out that they go only to the mouths of the rivers to +fish. They used to hunt in the mountains, but they do not take +hunting-trips any more. Venereal diseases and rum (saki) have depleted +them year by year, just as in the case of our American Indians. They are +largely sterile now. They used to build their own boats, but they build +no more. It is a biological old age. Their day is through."</p> + +<p>"It is a sad thing to see a race dying out," said Pat.</p> + +<p>"Especially a white race, as these Ainus seem to be," said another +member of the party.</p> + +<p>And back to the village we went silently, plodding through a driving +blizzard that bore in upon us with terrific force. As we fought our way +through this blizzard, I could not help feeling a great sense of +depression. It is a fearful thing to see anything die, especially a race +of human beings. That is a great epic tragedy worthy of a Shakespeare. +That is enough to wring the soul of the gods. That a race has played the +game, has been powerful and conquering and triumphant, and then step by +step has petered out and become weak and senile until biological decay +has set in—that is fearful.</p> + +<p>Another illustration of the ignominious failure of a lower type of mind +to understand a higher<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> type of mind is set forth in the following +letter which was written at my request by a missionary whom I met in San +Francisco just as the final chapters of this book were being written.</p> + +<p>The first time I met this missionary was in Seoul, Korea.</p> + +<p>I have been told so many times that the cruelties in Korea have been +stopped. Certain men said that they had been stopped immediately after +the Independence Movement, but they were not stopped. At frequent +intervals the American press is flooded with statements which come from +Japanese press sources that the outrages in Korea have ceased.</p> + +<p>I said to this missionary, who had just arrived from Korea, "Is it true +that the cruelties have stopped in Korea?"</p> + +<p>"No! They have not stopped! They have not even diminished! They are +getting worse, rather than better!"</p> + +<p>"Would you be willing to write out, in your own handwriting, a few +things that you know yourself which have occurred since I was in Korea +so that the book which I am writing may be accurate and up to date in +its facts?"</p> + +<p>"I will be glad to do that for you! We who are missionaries dare not +speak the truth!"</p> + +<p>"Why?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span>"If we did the Japanese Government would never let us get back to our +people!"</p> + +<p>"Then you may talk through me, if you are willing to do it. I want the +truth to get to the American people!"</p> + +<p>"I am not only willing but I am eager to talk!" said this missionary and +wrote out the following story of cruelty against an educated and +cultured Korean, who was the Religious and Educational Director in the +Seoul Y.M.C.A. This story of the latest Japanese barbarisms I pass on to +the reader in this chapter to illustrate another ignominious Hun failure +to understand that the practices of the Dark Ages will not work in this +century:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"On May 26th, 1920, just as Mr. Choi was coming out of his class +room he was met by two detectives, one Korean and one Japanese, who +informed him that he was wanted at the Central Police Station. Here +he was turned over to the Chief of Police and thrown into a room +and kept all day. Mr. Brockman and Cynn both made several attempts +to find out why he was arrested. Each time they were given an +evasive answer. Finally Mr. Cynn insisted that they tell him the +cause of the arrest. It was finally discovered that he was wanted +in Pyengyang on certain charges. He was to leave Seoul that evening +on the 11 p.m. train. Anxious to see how Mr. Choi was being +treated, Mr. Cynn and several of the Y.M.C.A. men went down to the +station. Mr. Choi with the other six students were standing on the +platform. Apparently Mr. Choi was not bound as is the usual custom. +Closer observation, however, revealed the fact that his hands<span class='pagenumbq'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> were +bound with cords, but in his case the ropes were placed on the +inside instead of the outside, of the clothes. He arrived in +Pyengyang the next day, May 27, at 5 p.m. Instead of taking Mr. +Choi first they called in one of the students whose name is Chai +Pony Am. After the usual preliminary questions these inquisitors of +the Dark Ages said, 'We know all about you everything you have +done. There is no use for you to deny anything. You make a clean +confession of everything.' Mr. Choi replied, 'I have done nothing. +If I knew what you wanted, I would tell you.' More pressure was +urged in the way of bombastic speech. Finally the police said, 'If +you won't tell of your own free will we will make you tell!' Then +the tortures, which the Government published broadcast had been +done away with, began. They brought out a round stool with four +legs and laid it down on its side with the sharp legs up and made +him strip naked. Then they took the silken bands (about 2 in. wide) +and placing his hands behind his back until the shoulder blades +touched begun bending the arm from the wrist very tight. This +completed, they made him kneel upon the sharp edge of the legs of +the stool with his shins. Then they took the bamboo paddle (this is +made of two strips of bamboo about 2 in. wide and 2 ft. long wound +with cord) and begun beating him on the head, face, back, feet and +thighs. Every time they struck him his body would move and the +movement cause the shins to rub on the sharp edges of the stool. To +further increase the pain they took lighted cigarettes and burnt +his flesh. This was continued until the student fainted and fell +off. They then would restore the patient by artificial respiration +and when he refused to confess, continued the torture. This process +was continued for 45 minutes and then the student was put into a +dark cell and kept for three days. Upon the third day he was again +brought before these <i>just</i> policemen and asked if he were ready to +confess. Said they, 'If you do not tell us this time we will kill +you. You see how the waters of the Tai Pong (the river at +Pyengyang) wear smooth these stones. That is what we do with those +who come in here. Many have been killed in here. Your life<span class='pagenumbq'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> is not +worth as much as a fly.' He was tortured in the same manner as +before and then put back into the cell for another three days. This +process was continued every three days for two weeks.</p> + +<p>"When Mr. Choi, the educational director of the Y.M.C.A. was called +in the police said, 'You are an educated gentleman and we propose +to give you the gentleman's treatment. We do not want to treat you +like ordinary men. Now we want you to tell us what your thoughts +have been and are. Make a confession of anything you have done +since March 1st, 1919.' Mr. Choi said, 'What do you want me to +confess? If you will give me a little time I will write you out +something.' This they refused to do and said, 'Since you refuse to +tell us we will make you tell. We will treat you like all other +dogs.' Then they forcibly took off his clothes, and proceeded to +bind him in the same manner as the previous student. After being +bound he was placed on the stool and beaten. He did not lose his +consciousness but fell off the stool, and then was placed back and +the same process continued. When Mr. Choi fell off the stool the +bands on his arms were loosened and they proceeded to unloosen and +rewind his arms. This time they wound them tighter than before. At +the ends of these bands are brass rings which are placed next to +the flesh and made to press upon the nerves. This time Mr. Choi +said as they wound his right arm he felt a sharp pain and at once +noticed that he had lost the use of his arm. It was paralyzed. Mr. +Choi was tortured five times in all—one every three days. The +first torture lasted one hour and the succeeding ones were less +severe than the first. At the end of two weeks, June 10th, Mr. Choi +and the six students with him were called before a police captain +who said to the students, 'There is nothing against you. Some bad +Korean has testified falsely against you. We are sorry you have +suffered but you can now go free.' However to Mr. Choi he said, +'You must remain here a week yet. You are still under police +supervision. Go to —— hotel and stay.' On June 16th the police +came to the hotel where he was staying and said, 'You may go down +to Seoul tonight.' Mr. Choi arrived<span class='pagenumbq'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> in Seoul on the 17th and gave +this testimony. His arm is still paralyzed."</p></div> + +<p>And so it is that these great failures stand out: the failure of a race +of people to survive; the failure of the American people to estimate the +loss of Shantung at its proper valuation spiritually, and the failure of +Japan to understand that Korea is still and ever shall be <i>Korea the +Unconquered</i>; this Korea which I call "The Wild Boar at Bay."</p> + + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER X<br /> +<small>FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIENDSHIP</small></h2> + + +<p>We were running down the Samabs River in a small Dutch ship, the +<i>Merkeus</i>. This river, running almost parallel to the Equator, and not +more than fifty miles away from that well-known institution, cuts the +western end of Borneo in two, and lends phenomenal fertility to its +soil.</p> + +<p>Shooting around a bend in the river, suddenly there loomed on the +western shores, so close that we could throw a stone and hit it, a tree +that was leafless, dead as a volcanic dump; but its dead branches +literally swarmed with monkeys. The light in the west had so far gone +that they appeared as silent silhouettes against the sunset Their tails, +which seemed to be about three feet long, and were curled at the ends, +hung below the dead branches. One big fellow had perched himself on the +tiptop of the tree, and in the dim light he looked like a human sentinel +as his black outline appeared against the evening light.</p> + +<p>Then came Missionary Worthington's story about Kin Thung, the boy who, +with characteristic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> Oriental spirit, had quick murder in his heart:</p> + +<p>"It was while I was the head of the Boys' School down in Batavia, Java, +that it happened. One has experiences out here in dealing with youth +that he does not get at home, for it is inflammable material, explosive +to the highest degree."</p> + +<p>I waited for his story to continue as the Dutch ship glided swiftly down +the river toward the South China Sea, and night settled over us as we +sat there on the upper deck, watching the crimson glory change into +sudden purple.</p> + +<p>"I heard a noise and I knew there was a fight on in the dormitory. I had +seen the aftermath of such Malay and Chinese feuds in our schools +before, and I knew that it was no trivial matter, as it often is with +boy fights at home, so I hurried up.</p> + +<p>"When I got there I saw Kin Thung wiping his knife, and the boy he had +been fighting lying on the floor, bleeding from a long wound."</p> + +<p>"What had happened?"</p> + +<p>"Kin Thung was a quick-tempered boy. In addition to that, he was of a +sullen make-up, with, what I call, a criminal tendency in him. That, +added to his already volatile spirit, made him a real problem in the +school. For instance, he was the kind of a boy who, if a teacher called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> +on him without warning to recite, he would get uncontrollably angry, +turn sullen and refuse to answer."</p> + +<p>"Why didn't you fire him?" I said.</p> + +<p>"That would have been the easy thing to do. I preferred to win him +rather than to fire him!"</p> + +<p>I felt ashamed of myself for my suggestion, and looked out into the +night skies where the beautiful form of the southern cross loomed in the +zenith.</p> + +<p>"No, I didn't fire him."</p> + +<p>"What did you do?"</p> + +<p>"As I was dressing the boy's wound Kin Thung stood looking on, utterly +expressionless and unrepentant, even sullen.</p> + +<p>"I didn't say anything to Kin that night, save to ask him to come to the +office the next day.</p> + +<p>"The other boys were calling out to him as he entered, and I could hear +them through the window, 'I wonder how many strokes of the rattan he +will get?' for that is one of our forms of punishment.</p> + +<p>"He was no doubt wondering himself when he entered, still sullen.</p> + +<p>"I said to him, 'Kin, I could give you as punishment a hundred strokes +of the rattan. I could put you on rice and water for a month, or I could +put you to a room for a week in solitary <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span>confinement. But I am not +going to do either or any of them. I am going to pray for you!"</p> + +<p>"'I don't want you to, sir!' he cried in alarm.</p> + +<p>"'Kneel down!' I said to him.</p> + +<p>"'I don't want to.'</p> + +<p>"'Kneel down, I say!'</p> + +<p>"'I won't!'</p> + +<p>"'But this is your punishment. You would submit to the rattan if I +imposed that. You must submit to this!' I said.</p> + +<p>"'I hate prayer!'</p> + +<p>"'Kneel down, boy!'</p> + +<p>"He knelt. I prayed. He wept."</p> + +<p>This was the cryptic way the missionary came to the climax of his story. +Again the Southern Cross shot into view as we turned a curve in the +river.</p> + +<p>"The fountain broke. A boy's heart was won! I didn't have to fire him. I +won him!"</p> + +<p>"That lad came to me two years later as he started out from our school +in Batavia, and said, 'Mr. Worthington, that moment when you called me +into your office was the crucial moment of my life. If you had been +unkind to me then; if you had punished me, even as much as I deserved +it; if you had not been Christ-like, I should have killed you. I had my +knife ready. There was a demon in me! Your kindness, your praying for +me, broke something inside of me. I guess it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span> my heart. I cried. I +prayed. That morning saved my soul!'"</p> + +<p>"That was a marvelous experience, Mr. Missionary! It was a marvelous way +to meet the situation," I said in a low tone, looking up at the white +outline of the Southern Cross, and remembering two thieves.</p> + +<p>"It was Christ's way!" said the missionary.</p> + +<p>But perhaps the outstanding Flash-light of national Friendship is that +of America for the Philippines. I shall never forget the day we started +southward from winter-bound China for sun-warmed Manila.</p> + +<p>As the great ship swung about in the muddy waters of the Yangsti and +turned southward, the bitter winds of winter were blowing across her +deserted decks. But in two days one felt not only a breath of warm +tropical winds on his face but he also felt a breath of warmer +friendship blowing into his soul as he thought of the Philippines and +America.</p> + +<p>The first breath of warm winds from southern tropical seas gently kissed +one's cheeks that afternoon. It was a soothing breath of romance, +freighted with the scent of tropical trees. It was much of a contrast +with the bitter winter winds that had blown the day before at Shanghai. +There the snow was flying, and woolen suits were greatly needed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>But to-night men and women alike walk the decks of this Manila-bound +ship. They are all in white. One stands at the bow of the ship, glad to +catch the salt spray on tanned cheeks, glad to feel the sea-touched +winds playing with his hair, glad to see fair women of the Orient tanned +with summer suns; for it is summer in the Philippines, while winter +reigns in China and the rest of the Oriental lands further north.</p> + +<p>Last night we passed the narrow straits leading out of Shanghai harbor +directly south. Two lighthouses blinked through the dusk of evening, the +one to the north in short sharp notes, like a musician of the sea +singing coasts, rapidly beating time. The light to the south seemed to +count four in blinks and then hold its last count like a note of music. +In between the two lighthouses vague, dim, mist-belted mountains of the +China coast loomed through the dusk.</p> + +<p>This morning and all day long we have been sailing past the huge +outlines of mountainous Formosa, that rich island off the coast of +China, between Shanghai and Manila. It looks like some fairly island +with its coves and caves, into which pours the purple sea, visible +through the faint mists of morning and noontime. Its precipitous sides +shoot down to the sea in great bare cliffs, save where, here and there, +a beautiful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> bay runs in from the southern sea to kiss the green lips of +the land.</p> + +<p>But now the sun is setting. I am watching it from my stateroom window.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>And now it is the rainy season in the Philippines.</p> + +<p>It doesn't rain in Luzon; it opens up clouds, and oceans suddenly drop +to the land. Lakes and rivers form overnight. Bridges wash out, fields +are inundated, houses by thousands are swept away, and railroad tracks +twisted and played with, as if they were grappled by gigantic fists.</p> + +<p>Men will tell you of the great Typhoon that suddenly dropped out of the +mountains at Baguio, sliced off a few sections of the mountains, rushed +down through the great gorge, and left in its trail the iron ruins of +eight or ten bridges, put in by American engineers, founded on solid +granite; but swept away like playthings of wood, in an hour.</p> + +<p>One night we were driving from Baguio to Manila.</p> + +<p>A storm dropped suddenly out of the nowhere. We had no side curtains on, +and in just three minutes we were soaked to the skin, and dripping +streams of water. The artesian wells along the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> way were but dribbling +springs compared with us.</p> + +<p>The storm came out of a clear, star-lit sky. Storms come that way in the +Philippines. Only a few minutes before I had been looking up at the +Southern Cross admiring its beauty. I looked again and there was no +Southern Cross. A few great drops of rain fell and then came the deluge.</p> + +<p>Candle lights flickered in innumerable thatched houses where brown and +naked women fluttered about dodging the rain, looking strangely like +great paintings in the night. At the edge of each side porch a Bamboo +ladder reached up from the ground. A fire burned against the rain. This +fire leapt up for two feet.</p> + +<p>One could easily imagine on this stormy night, with every road a river, +every field a flood, and every vacant space a sea, that the thatched +houses raised on Bamboo poles were boats, afloat in a great ocean. The +fires on the back porches looked for all the world like the fires that I +have seen flaring against the night from Japanese fishing boats.</p> + +<p>We had been warm, personal friends since college days, this driver and +I. He had chosen the harder way of the mission fields to spend his life.</p> + +<p>"After all," said he, "that was a dream worth dreaming!"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>"What do you mean?" I asked him, a bit startled.</p> + +<p>"Why the American occupation of these islands; the dream that McKinley +had, of teaching them to govern themselves; and then giving them their +independence; an Imperial Dream such as the world never heard of before; +a dream that, if it has done nothing else, has won for America the +undying friendship of the intelligent Filipino."</p> + +<p>"Right you are, man! But why such a thought at this ungodly hour? I +should think rather that you would be sending out an S. O. S."</p> + +<p>"Dunno! Just flashed over me that that was a dream worth dreaming; and, +by gad, boy, we're seeing it come to pass. Look at those contented +people living in peace and security; their home fires lighted; their +children in school; plenty to eat; not afraid that to-morrow morning +some Friar will sell their home from under them. No wonder they have +given their undying friendship to America!"</p> + +<p>He continued as we sped through the rain.</p> + +<p>"England and Germany sneered at America's dream. Such a dream of +friendship through serving its colony had never been born in any other +national soul from the Genesis of colonization up to this day, save in +the soul of America in the Philippines. We have set the ideals of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> +world in many ways but never in a more marked way than this.</p> + +<p>"The Phoenicians were the first colonizers and they swept the +Mediterranean with a policy of exploitation and slavery which was +selfish and sordid. Then came Greece which had some such ideal of +colonization as America. Her ideal was, that colonies, like fruit from a +tree, when ripe, should fall off of the mother tree. Or the ideal of +Greece was that colonizing should come about like the swarming of bees."</p> + +<p>I nodded my head. He went on as we slashed through the muddy ways, "Rome +with her Imperial dream, her army to back it up, failed as have failed +both Germany and Japan; three nations with kindred ideals as to +colonization.</p> + +<p>"Venice was cruel, adventurous and rapacious in her colonizing policy on +the Black Sea and she left a record of exploitations which makes a black +blotch on the world's pages.</p> + +<p>"Modern colonization began with Spain in South America, Mexico and the +Philippines. Spain has nothing over which to boast in that record. The +Dutch in Java, the record of Belgium in the Congo; that of the +Portuguese in the Far East; the French in Africa; the English in India; +Germany in China and Africa, and Japan in Korea, have not been entirely +for the service of the subjected people, for all of these Governments<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> +have gone on the fundamental theory that the colony exists for the +Mother States."</p> + +<p>He paused a moment as we made a cautious way around a big caribou. "Then +came the great dream of America that the Mother State exists for the +benefit of the colony.</p> + +<p>"Elihu Root said, 'We have declared a trust for the benefit of the +people of the Philippine Islands!'</p> + +<p>"President William McKinley said: The government is designed not for +exploitation nor for our own satisfaction, or for the expression of our +theoretical views, but for the happiness, peace and prosperity of the +people of the Philippine Islands.'</p> + +<p>"Ex-President Taft said when he was Governor-General of the Islands: The +chief difference between the English policy and treatment of tropical +peoples and ours, arises from the fact that we are seeking to prepare +them under our guidance for popular self-government. We are attempting +to do this, first by primary and secondary education offered freely to +the Filipino people.'</p> + +<p>"This spirit has won the undying friendship of the Filipino people. True +enough, they will finally want their independence. That is natural, but +there is a deep love for America buried in their hearts because America +has been square with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> them; has fulfilled her promises; has not +exploited them, but has served them. That is why I call the colonization +policy of America here in the Philippines a dream worth dreaming." My +friend was right.</p> + +<p>"We love America, because America is our friend!" said a humble +fisherman to me one day on the banks of the Pasig.</p> + +<p>"Yes, the United States; it is our own! You are our brothers!" said a +Filipino boy who had been educated in a Mission school.</p> + +<p>"We are no longer our own. We belong to America. You have bought us with +a price! It cost the blood of American soldiers to buy us!" said an old +Filipino, gray with years, but high in the councils of the Government.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>One night on the Lunetta the Filipino Band was playing. It was a +beautiful evening with a sunset that lifted one into the very skies with +its bewildering glory and ecstasy. I had been sitting there, drinking in +the beautiful music made by the world-famous Constabulary Band, and +watching the quicksilver-like changing colors of the sunset. Then the +band started to play "The Star Spangled Banner." I was so lost in the +sunset and the music that I did not notice.</p> + +<p>I heard a sudden stirring. Brown bodies, half-naked Filipinos all about +me, had leapt to their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> feet at the playing of our national hymn. +Beautiful Filipino women in their dainty and delicately winged gowns, +bare brown shoulders heaving with pride and friendship, stood +reverently. Filipino soldiers all over the Lunetta stood at attention +facing the flag, the Stars and Stripes waving in the winds from the old +walled city. Side by side with American soldiers who had just returned +from Siberia stood Filipino Constabulary soldiers. Side by side with +well-dressed American children stood half-naked Filipino children at +reverent attention, paying a wholesome respect to the Stars and Stripes +as the old hymn swept across the Lunetta.</p> + +<p>"That is a thrilling thing to see!" I said to a friend.</p> + +<p>"It could not have happened ten years ago! M he replied.</p> + +<p>"Why?"</p> + +<p>"They did not trust us, and they did not love us. They had seen too much +of the selfish colonization policies of Spain. They expected the same +things from America. It did not come. They have been won to us!"</p> + +<p>This warm-hearted friendship is not true either of England's colonies +anywhere in the Orient or of Japan's in Formosa or Korea. It is true +alone in the Philippines.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span>While I was in the Philippines, down in San Fernando, a statue was +erected to a well-known rebel. He was a man who had refused to take the +oath of allegiance to America when we captured the islands. He escaped +and carried on a propaganda against us. But when he died and a request +was made that a statue be erected to his memory, the United States +granted this permission.</p> + +<p>At the dedication of this statue the Governor of this Province said that +he doubted if any nation on the face of the earth, save the United +States, would have permitted the erection of such a statue to a rebel +against that government. "That act will bind our hearts closer to the +heart of the United States!" he said in closing his address. The +thrilling thing about it all was, that his address was met with +prolonged cheering on the part of the thousands of Filipinos who had +gathered for the dedication.</p> + +<p>Another evidence of this beautiful friendship for America is the +painting which adorns the walls of one of the Government buildings in +Manila. It is called "The Welcome to America." It was purchased, paid +for and erected by Filipinos; erected in good will, with laughter in +their souls, and joy in their hearts.</p> + +<p>It was painted by Hidalgo in Paris in 1904.</p> + +<p>High colors; reds, browns, yellows, golds,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> blues, purples; tell its +story. It adorns the panel at the end of the Senate Chamber of the +Filipino Government.</p> + +<p>It has spirit in it and a great, deep sincerity.</p> + +<p>The central figure is a beautiful woman, symbolic of America. She comes +across the Pacific carrying the gifts of peace, prosperity, security and +love to her colony, the Philippines.</p> + +<p>She carries in one hand the American flag. At her side is Youth bearing +a Harp, symbol of the music that America brings into the souls of the +people whom she comes to serve. Singing angels hover about the scene.</p> + +<p>Above the central figure of America, on angel wings, is a Youth carrying +a lighted torch. To the left is a beautiful brown-skinned Filipino woman +with eyes uplifted to this torch. She bears within her ample bosom the +children of the islands. The torch is symbol of the fact that we are +handing on the light of our Christian civilization to the children of +our colonies.</p> + +<p>I visited this painting many times, but I never visited it that I did +not see many Filipinos, both young and old, standing before it, with +reverent eyes.</p> + +<p>I said to a high official of the Government, "Does that painting +represent the way you Filipinos feel to-day?"</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span>"Hidalgo has spoken for us. He has voiced our feelings well!" was the +reply.</p> + +<p class="tb">* * * * * *</p> + +<p>This friendship for the United States is a thrilling thing found all +over the Far East. One finds it in Korea, as well as in the Philippines, +like a burning light of glory. Korea says, "America is our only hope! We +have always trusted and loved America!"</p> + +<p>One finds it like a silver stream running through the life of China. Dr. +Sun Yat Sen said to me in Shanghai: "America has always been China's +staunch friend! America we trust! America we love! America is our hope! +America is our model!"</p> + +<p>Mr. Tang Shao-yi said, "America's hands and those of America alone are +clean in her relations with China. This cannot be said of the other +nations."</p> + +<p>Then he told me a thrilling story of the Boxer Rebellion. He, with two +thousand Chinese, who were Government officials, were barricaded in a +compound behind the usual Chinese walls. The Boxers were firing on them +every day. They had run out of food. In fact, they were starving.</p> + +<p>But one morning a bright-faced American boy appeared at the gates of the +wall. He was admitted because he was an American. He asked to be taken +to Mr. Tang Shao-yi.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>"What do you most need?" this young American asked the rich Chinese +merchant.</p> + +<p>"We most need food," was the reply.</p> + +<p>"All right, I'll get enough for you to-day!" said the young American.</p> + +<p>"That night," said Mr. Tang Shao-yi, "that American boy returned with +five hundred hams which the Boxers had thrown away, in addition to a +thousand sacks of flour which he had gotten from the English legation."</p> + +<p>"Wonderful!" I exclaimed.</p> + +<p>"And that boyish American was——"</p> + +<p>"Who?" I asked with tense interest, for the old man was smiling with a +suggestive Oriental smile, as if he had a climax up his commodious +sleeves.</p> + +<p>"That man was Herbert Hoover!"</p> + +<p>And from that interview henceforth and forever no human being need tell +me that the Chinese have no sense of the dramatic.</p> + +<p>"That's why we love and trust America," said this great Chinese +statesman. "It is because America has always been our friend in time of +need!"</p> + +<p>I found this friendship for the United States true all over the Oriental +world. It was to me a great miracle of national friendship. The peoples +of the Orient trust us. They are not suspicious of our intentions in +spite of what jingo papers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> say. We have won their hearts. We have +claimed their friendship.</p> + +<p>The name "America," which stands in the Oriental mind for the United +States, is a sacred passport and password. It is a magical word. It +opens doors that are locked to all the rest of the world; it tears down +barriers, century-old, that have been barricading certain places for +ages past. That simple word opens hearts that would open with none +other.</p> + +<p>The eyes of the brown men of the Far East open wide at that word, and a +new light appears in them. This is particularly true in Korea, in China, +in the Malacca Straits, and in the Philippines.</p> + +<p>It is enough to bring a flood of tears to the heart of an American, +lonely for a sight of his own flag, homesick for his native shores, to +see and feel and hear and know the pulse of this friendship for our +country among millions of brown men.</p> + +<p>"It is because we are like you, we Chinese," said Tang Shao-yi. "It is +because we are both Democrats at heart!"</p> + +<p>"It is because you have been our true friends!" said Dr. Sun Yat Sen.</p> + +<p>"It is because your ideals are our ideals; your dreams our dreams and +your friends our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span> friends," said Wu Ting-fang, one of China's greatest +leaders, to me.</p> + +<p>"It is because so many of our young men have been trained in your +American schools, and because so many of us feel that the United States +is our second home. It is because you have sent so many good men and +women to China to help us; to teach us; to live with us; to love us; to +serve us! It is because your missionaries from America have shown the +real heart of the United States to us!" said Mr. Walter Busch, a Chinese +American student who is now editor of the Peking <i>Leader</i>.</p> + +<p>But whatever the cause, the glorious fact is enough to:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Send a thrill of rapture through the framework of the heart<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And warm the inner bein' till the tear drops want to start!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But perhaps the highest and holiest Flash-lights of Friendship that one +finds in the Far East is that of the friendship formed by the American +missionaries for the people among whom they are working, and the +friendship that these people give in return. These are holy things.</p> + +<p>The average missionary comes home on his furlough, but before he is home +three months he is homesick to go back to his people. So they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> come and +go across the seas of the world through the years, weaving like a great +Shuttle of Service the fabric of friendship for themselves and for the +United States.</p> + +<p>This shuttle of service is being woven night and day across the Atlantic +and across the Pacific by great ships bearing missionaries going and +coming; furlough following furlough, after six years of service; term +after term; leaving native land, children, memories; time after time +until death ends that particular thread, crimson, gold, brown or white. +The great Shuttle of Love weaves the fabric of friendship across the +seas as the ships come and go, bearing outbound and homebound +missionaries to foreign fields.</p> + +<p>I am thinking particularly of the Pacific as I write this sketch sitting +in a room overlooking the great harbor of Yokohama where three Japanese +warship lie anchored and two great Pacific liners, one on its way to San +Francisco and another bound for Vancouver. They come and go, these great +ships. A few days ago the <i>Empress of Asia</i> made its twenty-eighth trip +across and it soon will start on its twenty-eighth trip back to +Vancouver again. Some of the ships out of San Francisco have made more +than a hundred trips. So they weave the shuttle back and forward across +this great sea. And never a ship sails this sea that it does not carry +its passenger<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> list of missionaries. Our list was more than half a +hundred.</p> + +<p>As Mr. Forman, in a sympathetic and appreciative article that he has +written for the <i>Ladies' Home Journal</i>, says, the common phrase on a +Pacific liner is, "There are two hundred and fifty passengers and +forty-five missionaries on board." Every Pacific passenger list +immediately divides itself into two groups, the missionaries and the +other passengers.</p> + +<p>Then Mr. Forman proceeds to slay those shallow, narrow-minded, often +ignorant and uneducated tourists and business men who dare to speak of +this traveling missionary with derision. Mr. Forman has no particular +interest in missions and he has no particular interest in the Church, +but he started out to investigate this derogatory phrase, "and +forty-five missionaries."</p> + +<p>Mr. Forman starts his article with these striking paragraphs</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"If ever you cross the Pacific you will find the passengers on the +steamer quietly and automatically dividing themselves into two +groups.</p> + +<p>"'How many passengers have we on board?' you may lightly ask your +neighbor.</p> + +<p>"And your neighbor, traveled man no doubt (his twelfth crossing, he +will mention), will smartly reply, with a suave, man-of-the-world +smile: 'A hundred and two passengers and forty-five missionaries.'</p> + +<p>"After that you will be initiated and you will be mentioning with +an easy grace to some one else that there are<span class='pagenumbq'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> on board so many +passengers and so many missionaries. It becomes a part of the +jargon of Pacific crossing."</p> +</div> + +<p>But Mr. Forman sees working that Shuttle of Service of which I am +speaking. He sees, as any thinking man sees, as Roosevelt saw, as +Bryan saw, and as Taft saw, that the greatest single influence for +good in the Orient is the missionary. Mr. Forman was incensed at +this careless phrase on the Pacific liners, and he investigated the +work of our missionaries when he was in the Orient, and he came to +the decision that they are worth more to America, even from that +selfish standpoint, than all the ambassadors that we have sent +over, because they are, in their crossing and recrossing, weaving a +Fabric of Friendship between the Orient and the Occident; between +the nations of the East and those of the West; between the white +peoples and the brown peoples; in spite of the diplomatic +differences and yellow newspapers in the United States and Japan.</p> + +<p>Mr. Forman says about his conclusions:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"I concluded that any one of the large missions in those Oriental +countries accomplished, so far as concerns American standing and +prestige, more than all our diplomatic representation there put +together. I do not believe it to be an exaggeration to say that for +the Orient the missionaries are perhaps the only useful form of +what is called diplomatic representation."</p></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>And again in the same article he says:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"One good missionary in the right place, it seemed to me, can +accomplish more than quite a number of ambassadors."</p></div> + +<p>And again he wonderfully sums up that mission of love in a paragraph +which I think ought to be passed on:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"But when a missionary establishes a clinic or a hospital, healing +sores and diseases that their own medicine men have abandoned as +hopeless; when he educates boys and girls that otherwise would have +remained in darkness; when, with a whole-souled enthusiasm, he +gives them counsel, aid and service and he asks nothing in return +then the stolid and passive Chinese or Korean is genuinely +impressed. Then America really becomes in his mind the synonym for +kindness and service, and from mouth to mouth goes abroad the fame +of the land that is aiming to do him good, without any menacing +background of exploitation."</p></div> + +<p>I talked with one bright-faced, twinkling-eyed, red-blooded, big-framed +missionary who was crossing with his family of a wife and four children. +He had spent fifteen years in the Orient as a missionary, and then +because of illness he had been compelled to go to America. There he had +taken a church and had preached for five years. His health came back, +and as he told me, "The lure of the East got me and I had to come back. +I never was so happy in my life as I am on this trip and the whole +family feels the same way.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> We are going back to <i>our people</i>!" And the +way he pronounced those <i>italicised</i> words made me know that he, too, +was weaving a thread in the Fabric of Friendship.</p> + +<p>We met a woman who was traveling back to China with her three darling +little tots. I made love to all three of them, and it wasn't long before +I asked one where her Daddy was. I assumed, of course, that they had +been home on a furlough and that Daddy was back there in China waiting +anxiously for them to return to him. I pictured that meeting, for I have +seen many such during war days, both on this side and in France.</p> + +<p>"My Daddy is dead," the child said simply with a quiver of her little +lips.</p> + +<p>"All right, dear baby, we won't talk about it then," for I was afraid +that those little trembling lips couldn't hold in much longer. But she +wanted to tell me about it. I soon saw that. She liked to talk about her +"dear dead Daddy."</p> + +<p>"He went to France," she said simply.</p> + +<p>"Ah, he was a soldier?" I questioned.</p> + +<p>"No, he was better than a soldier, my Mamma says. He did not go to kill; +he went to help." And back of that sentiment and that statement I saw a +world of struggle and ideals in a missionary home where the man felt +called across the seas to be "in it" with his country and at last the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> +refuge of the man who could go "not to kill but to help."</p> + +<p>"He went to work with the coolies and he got the influenza and died last +winter. We won't have any Daddy any more," and her little blue eyes were +misty with tears. And so were mine, more misty than I dared let her see. +And they are misty now as I write about it. And yours will be misty if +you read about it, as they should be. That is something fine in you +being called out.</p> + +<p>Later I met the mother. She told me over again the story that little +Doris had told me of the big Daddy who had felt the call to go to France +in the Y.M.C.A. to help the poor "coolies," several hundred of whom +were, by strange coincidence, going back to China on the same boat with +us, and with that brave mother and those dear children. These "coolies" +were going back alive, but he who went to serve them died. "Others he +saved; Himself he could not save," echoed in my soul as that mother and +I talked.</p> + +<p>"I am going back to the Chinese to spend the rest of my life finishing +Will's work. It is better so. I shall be happier."</p> + +<p>"But the association there—everything—every turn you make—every place +you go—will remind you of him," I protested.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>"It would be what Will would want most of all, that I go on with his +work. I go gladly. It will be the best balm for my sorrow."</p> + +<p>And far above national friendships there loom these snow-white peaks of +the sacrificial friendship the missionaries bear in their hearts for the +people with whom they live, and serve, and die.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p class="center">THE END</p> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="tnote"> + +<p class="center"><b>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:</b></p> + +<p>Inconsistencies in hyphenation of words preserved. (flash-lights, +flashlights; foot-ball, football; star-lit, starlit; to-day, today; +to-night, tonight)</p> + +<p>Inconsistencies in the spelling and transliteration of non-English words +preserved. (Pyeng Yang, Pyengyang)</p> + +<p>Pages 32, 100, 122, 144, 188 were blank pages in the original text and therefore their page number anchors have +not been inserted into the html.</p> + +<p>Pg. 25, "bacon" changed to "beacon". (like beacon lights of hope)</p> + +<p>Pg. 26, inserted missing comma. (there to the north," I said)</p> + +<p>Pgs. 79, 101, 145, inserted opening double quote mark to start of direct +speech at top of chapter.</p> + +<p>Pg. 153, "flashng" changed to "flashing" (like flashing piston rods of +steel)</p> + +</div> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Flash-lights from the Seven Seas, by +William L. 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Stidger + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Flash-lights from the Seven Seas + +Author: William L. Stidger + +Commentator: Bishop Francis J. McConnell + +Release Date: October 14, 2008 [EBook #26924] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FLASH-LIGHTS FROM THE SEVEN SEAS *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Lee + + + + + + + + +FLASH-LIGHTS +FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + +WILLIAM L. STIDGER + + + + +[Illustration: MT. TAISHAN, CHINA, SAID TO BE THE OLDEST WORSHIPPING +PLACE ON EARTH.] + + + + + FLASH-LIGHTS + FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + + + BY + WILLIAM L. STIDGER + + AUTHOR OF "STANDING ROOM ONLY," "STAR + DUST FROM THE DUGOUTS," "OUTDOOR + MEN AND MINDS," ETC. + + + WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY + + BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL + + + ILLUSTRATED + FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY + THE AUTHOR + + + NEW YORK + GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1921, + BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY + + + PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA + + + + + DEDICATED TO + + MARY I. SCOTT + + A WOMAN FRIEND + WHO PUSHED BACK THE HORIZONS OF + THE WORLD AND LED ME TO THE + BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL THAT + HAS NO END: THE TRAIL OF + DREAMS AND TRAVEL + + + + +INTRODUCTION + +BY BISHOP FRANCIS J. McCONNELL + + +The Rev. William L. Stidger is one of the most thoroughly alive men in +the ministry today. He sees quickly, reacts instantaneously, and knows +how to bring others to a like alertness of mental and spiritual seizure. +If it be said of him that he is impressionistic it must be remembered +that the impressions are made on a mind of sound purpose and +communicated to others for the sake of the truth behind the impression. +His narratives of travel do not belong in the guide-book category or in +that of the scientific geography. But if you wish to know what it would +be like to visit yourself the countries described, the reading of Mr. +Stidger's sketches will help you. If it be said that what one after all +is getting is the Stidger view, it must not be forgotten that the +Stidger view is marvellously vital and enkindling. The Stidger vitality +is bracing and health-giving. It is a tonic for all of us who are +getting a little old and sluggish. The contagion of youth and energy are +in this book: it will reach and stir all who read. + + +FRANCIS J. MCCONNELL + +_Pittsburgh, Pa._ + + + + +FOREWORD + + +That vast stretch of opal islands; jade continents; sapphire seas of +strange sunsets; mysterious masses of brown-skinned humanity; +brown-eyed, full-breasted, full-lipped and full-hipped women; which we +call the Orient, can only be caught by the photographer's art in +flash-light pictures. + +It is like a photograph taken in the night. It cannot be clear cut. It +cannot have clean outlines. It can only be a blurred mass of humanity +with burdens on their shoulders; humanity bent to the ground; creaking +carts; weary-eyed children and women; moving, moving, moving; like +phantom shadow-shapes; in and out; one great maze through the majestic +ages; one confused history of the ancient past; emerging; but not yet +out into the sunlight! + +Such masses of humanity; such dim, uncertain origins of unfathered +races; these can only be caught and seen as through a glass darkly. + +Paul Hutchinson, my friend, in "The Atlantic Monthly" says of China what +is true of the whole Orient: + + "In this vast stretch of country, with its poor communications, + we can only know in part. When one sets out to generalize he + does so at his own peril. The only consolation is that it is + almost impossible to disprove any statement; for, however + fantastical, it is probably in accord with the facts in some + part of the land." + +The facts, fancies, and fallacies of this book are gleaned from the +rovings and ramblings of a solid year of over fifty-five thousand miles +of travel; through ten separate countries: Japan, Korea, China, the +Philippine Islands, French Indo-China, the Malay States, Borneo, Java, +Sumatra and the Hawaiian Islands; across seven seas: the Pacific Ocean, +the Sea of Japan, the North China Sea, the Yellow Sea, the South China +Sea, the Malacca Straits, and the Sea of Java; after visiting five wild +and primitive tribes: the Ainu Indians of Japan, the Igorrotes of the +Philippines, the Negritos of the same islands; the Dyaks of Borneo, and +the Battaks of Sumatra; face to face by night and day with new races, +new faces, new problems, new aspirations, new ways of doing things, new +ways of living, new evils, new sins, new cruelties, new fears, new +degradations; new hopes, new days, new ways, new nations arising; new +gods, and a new God! + +When one comes back from such a trip, having fortified himself with the +reading of many books written about these far lands, in addition to his +travel, one still has the profound conviction that, after all is said, +done, and thought out, the only honest way to picture these vast +stretches of land and humanity is to confess that all is in motion; like +a great mass of bees in a hive, one on top of the other, busy at +buzzing, buying, selling, living, dying, climbing, achieving; groping in +the dark; moving upward by an unerring instinct toward the light. + +At nights I cannot sleep for thinking about that weird, dim, misty +panorama of fleeting, flashing pictures; those thousands of Javanese +that I saw down in Sourabaya, who have never known what it means to have +a home; who sleep in doorways by night, and along the river banks; where +mothers give birth to children, who in turn live and die out under the +open sky. Nor can I forget that animal-like beggar in Canton who dug +into a gutter for his food; or those hideous beggars, by winter along +the railway in Shantung; or the naked one-year-old child covered with +sores which a beggar woman in the Chinese section of Shanghai held to +her own naked breast. Those pictures and a thousand others abide. + +One has the feeling that if he could go back, again, and again, and +again to these far shores, and live with these peoples and die with +them, then he would begin faintly to understand what it all means and +where it is all headed. + +And this author, for one, is honest in saying that, in spite of careful +investigation, in spite of extensive travel and a sympathetic heart, he +sees but dimly. The very glory of it all, the age of it all, the wonder +of it all, the mysterious beauty and thrill of it all; the thrill of +these masses of humanity, their infinite possibilities for future +greatness; like a great blinding flash of glory, dims one's eyes for a +time. + +But, now, that he has, through quiet meditation and perspective, had a +chance to develop the films of thought, he finds that he has brought +back home pictures that one ought not to keep to one's self; especially +in this day, when, what happens to Asia is so largely to determine what +happens to America. + +So, out of the dark room, where they have been developing for a year, +and out of the dim shadows of that mysterious land whence they came, +they are printed and at the bottom of each picture shall be written the +humble words: + + "Flash-Lights from the Seven Seas" + + +WILLIAM L. STIDGER. + +_Detroit, Michigan._ + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + INTRODUCTION BY BISHOP FRANCIS J. MCCONNELL vii + + FOREWORD ix + +CHAPTER + + I FLASH-LIGHTS OF FLAME 19 + + II FLASH-LIGHTS PHYSICAL 33 + + III FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAITH 49 + + IV FLASH-LIGHTS OF FEAR 63 + + V FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIGHTFULNESS 79 + + VI FEMININE FLASH-LIGHTS 101 + + VII FLASH-LIGHTS OF FUN 123 + + VIII FLASH-LIGHTS OF FREEDOM 145 + + IX FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAILURE 165 + + X FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIENDSHIP 189 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + MT. TAISHAN, THE OLDEST WORSHIPPING PLACE + ON EARTH _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE + + THE WALLED CITY OF MANILA 48 + + BEAUTIFUL FILIPINO GIRLS 48 + + KOREAN GIRLS WITH AMERICAN IDEALS AND TRAINING 49 + + STEPPING ASIDE IN KOREA 49 + + CONFUCIUS TOMB AT CHUFU, CHINA 64 + + RUIN OF THE MING TOMBS 64 + + GRINDING RICE IN CHINA 65 + + A CAMEL TRAIN ENTERING PEKING 65 + + THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING 112 + + A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEEN-STORY PAGODA NEAR PEKING 112 + + A WAYSIDE TEMPLE AND SHRINE 113 + + A SUNRISE SILHOUETTE, JAVA 113 + + OLD BROMO VOLCANO, JAVA 128 + + A SIDE VIEW OF BEAUTIFUL BOROBOEDOER, JAVA 128 + + NAKED AND OTHERWISE 129 + + A DOG MARKET 129 + + + + +FLASH-LIGHTS FROM THE SEVEN SEAS + + + + +CHAPTER I + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FLAME + + +Fire! Fire! Fire everywhere! + +Fire in the sky, fire on the sea, fire on the ships, fire in the +flowers, fire in the trees of the forest; fire in the Poinsetta bushes +which flash their red flames from every yard and jungle. + +In the tropical lands flowers do not burst into blossom; they burst into +flame. Great bushes of flaming Poinsetta, as large as American lilac +bushes, burst into flame over night in Manila. + +That great tree, as large as an Oak, which they call "The Flame of the +Forest," looks like a tree on fire with flowers. One will roam the world +over and see nothing more beautiful than this great tree which looks +like a massive umbrella of solid flame. + +Every flower in the Orient seems to be a crimson flower. The tropical +heat of the Philippines, Java, Borneo, Sumatra, the Malay States and +India's far reaches; with beautiful Ceylon, and Burma; seems to give +birth to crimson child-flowers. + +The sunsets burst into bloom, as well as the flowers. There is no region +on earth where sunsets flare into birth and die in a flash-light of +glory and beauty like they do in the regions of the South China Sea. For +months at a stretch, every night, without a break, the most wildly +gorgeous, flaming, flaring, flashing crimson sunsets crown the glory of +the days. + +I have been interested in catching pictures of sunsets all over the +world. I have caught hundreds of sunsets with the Graflex; and other +hundreds have I captured with a Corona, just as they occurred; and I +have never seen a spot on earth where the sunsets were such glorious +outbursts of crimson and golden beauty as across the circling shores of +Manila Bay. + +Night after night I have sat in that ancient city and watched these +tumultuous, tumbling, Turner-like flashes of color. + +One night the sky was flame from sea to zenith across Manila Bay. It was +like a great Flame of the Forest tree in full bloom. Against this sky of +flaming sunset-clouds, hundreds of ships, anchored in the bay, lit their +lesser crimson lights; while, now and then, a battleship which was +signaling to another ship, flashed its message of light against the +fading glow of glory in the crimson sunset. + +"It is light talking unto light; flash unto flash; crimson unto +crimson!" said a friend who sat with me looking out across that +beautiful bay. + +The picture of that flaming sunset, with the great vessels silhouetted +against it; with the little lights on the ships, running in parallel +rows; and the flashing lights of signals from the masts of the +battleship will never die in one's memory. + +It was a quiet, peaceful scene. + +But suddenly, like a mighty volcano a burst of flame swept into the air +at the mouth of the Pasig River. It leapt into the sky and lighted up +the entire harbor in a great conflagration. The little ships stood out, +silhouetted against that great flaming oil tanker. + +"It's a ship on fire!" Otto exclaimed. + +"Let's go and see it!" I added. + +Then we were off for the mouth of the Pasig which was not far away. + +There we saw the most spectacular fire I have ever seen. A great oil +tanker full of Cocoanut-oil had burst into flame, trapping thirty men in +its awful furnace. Its gaunt masts stood out like toppling tree +skeletons from a forest fire against the now deepening might; made vivid +and livid by the bursting flames that leapt higher and higher with each +successive explosion from a tank of gasoline or oil. + +I got out my Graflex and caught several pictures of this flash-light of +flame, but none that will be as vivid, as lurid, or as lasting as the +flash-light that was etched into the film of my memory. + +The next flash-light of flame came bursting out of midnight darkness on +the island of Java. + +We were bound for old Bromo, that giant volcano of Java. We had started +at midnight and it would take us until daylight to reach the +crater-brink of this majestic mountain of fire. + +White flashes of light, leapt from Bromo at frequent intervals all night +long as we traveled on ponies through the tropical jungle trail, upward, +and onward to the brink of that pit of hell. + +White flashes of light leapt from Bromo at the narrow rail. They called +them "Night-Blooming Lilies," and sure enough they blanketed the rugged +pathway that night like so many tiny white Fairies. Indeed there was +something beautifully weird in their white wonder against the night. +They looked like frail, earth-angels playing in the star-light, sending +out a sweet odor which mingled strangely with the odor of sulphur from +the volcano. + +And back of all this was the background of that awful, thundering, +rumbling and grumbling volcano as somber as suicide. Strangely weird +flashes lighted the mountains for miles around. + +"It looks like heat lightning back at home," said an American. + +"Only the flashes are more vivid!" said another member of the party. + +Those flashes of light from the inner fires of the earth, bursting from +the fissures of restless volcano Bromo shall ever remain, like some +strange glimpse of a new Inferno. + +Volcanic Merapi, another belching furnace of Java, gave me a picture of +a flash-light of flame. + +The night that we stayed up on the old temple of Boroboedoer, Merapi was +unusually active; and now and then its flashes of flame lighted up the +whole beautiful valley between the temple and the mountain. + +At each flash of fire, the tall Bamboo and Cocoanut trees loomed like +graceful Javanese women in the midst of far-reaching, green, rice +paddies; while two rivers that met below us, wound under that light like +two silver threads in the night. + +Once, when an unusually heavy flash came from Merapi, we saw below us a +beautiful Javanese girl clasped in the arms of her brown lover. Each +seemed to be stark naked as they stood under a Cocoanut tree like Rodin +bronzes. + +It was this beautiful girl's voice that we later heard singing to her +lover a Javanese love song in the tropical night. + +This, I take it, was the Flame of Love; a flame which lights up the +world forever; everywhere her devotees, clothed or naked, are the same; +forever and a day; be it on the streets of Broadway; along the lanes of +the Berkshire Hills of New England; up the rugged trails of the Sierras; +or along the quiet, tree-lined streets of an American village. It is a +flame; this business of love; a flame which, flashing by day and night, +lights the world to a new glory. + + * * * * * + +One night the missionaries in Korea saw flames bursting out against the +hills. + +"What is it?" they cried, filled with fear. + +"The Japanese are burning the Korean villages!" said one who knew. + +All night long the villages burned and all night long the people were +murdered. Runners brought news to the hillsides of Seoul where anxious, +broken-hearted American missionaries waited. + +"One, two, three, four, five; ten, fifteen, twenty; thirty, forty, +fifty; a hundred, two hundred, three hundred; villages are burning," so +came the messages. + +The entire peninsula was lighted as with a great holocaust. + +It is said that the light could be seen from Fusan itself, a hundred +miles away. + +"From our village it looked like a light over a great American +steel-mill city," said a missionary to me. + +And when the morning came, the flames were still leaping high against +the crimson sky of dawn. + +For days this burning of villages continued. Belgium never saw more +ruthless flame and fire; set by sterner souls; or harder hearts! + +That was two years ago. + +The villages are charred ruins now. Some of them have never been +rebuilt. The murdered people of these villages have gone back to dust. + +The Japanese think that the fires are out. They thought, when the flames +of those burning villages ceased leaping into the skies; and at last +were but smouldering embers; that the flames had died. But the Japanese +were wrong, for on that very day, the Flames of Freedom began to burn in +Korean hearts and souls! And from that day to this; those flames have +been rising higher and higher. These are Flash-Lights of Flame that, as +the years go by; mount, like beacon lights of hope on Korean hills, to +light the marching dawn of Korean Independence. + + * * * * * + +A beautiful Korean custom that used to be; flashes a flame of fire +across the screen of history. + +In the old days the Korean Emperor used to have signals of fire flashed +from hill to hill running clear from the Chinese border to Seoul, the +Korean capital. This signal indicated that all was well along the +borders and that there was no danger of a Chinese invasion from the +north. + +Korea has always been a bone of contention between China, Russia and +Japan. Consequently this little peninsula has always walked on uneasy +paths, which is ever the fate of a buffer state. + +Never did a Korean Emperor go to sleep in peace until he looked out and +saw that the signal fires burned on the beautiful mountain peaks +surrounding the city of Seoul; fires indicating that the borders were +safe that night and that inmates of the palace might rest in peace and +security. + +"It must have been a beautiful sight to have seen the light flashing on +the mountain peak there to the north," I said to an eighty-year old +Korean patriarch. + +"It meant peace for the night," he answered. "It was beautiful. I often +long to see those fires of old burning again on yonder mountain." + +He said this with a dramatic wave of his stately white robed arm. + +"The sunsets still flame from that western mountain peak, overlooking +your city beautiful!" I said with a smile. + +"Yes, the sunsets still flame behind that peak," he responded with a +far-away look in his aged eyes. + +"Perhaps the good Christian God is lighting the fires for you?" I +suggested. + +"Yes, He, the good Christian God; is still lighting the fires for us; +but they are fires of freedom, fires of hope, and fires of Democracy!" +the old man said with a new light in his own flashing eyes. + +"And fires of peace," I added. + +"Yes, fires of Peace when freedom comes!" he responded. + +But whatever the political implications are; it is historically true +that this old custom had existed for years until the Japanese took +possession of Korea and stopped this beautiful tradition. + +But behind that same mountain from which the bonfires used to flash in +the olden days; indicating that the frontiers were safe for the night; +that no enemy hosts were invading the peninsula; behind that mountain +the fires of sunset still flame, flash, flare, and die away in the +somber purple shadows of night. + + * * * * * + +Nor shall one forget an evening at Wanju; a hundred miles from Seoul; +sitting in the Mission House looking down into that village of a hundred +thousand souls; watching the fires of evening lighted; watching a +blanket of gray-blue smoke slowly lift over that little village; +watching the great round moon slowly rise above a jutting peak beyond +the village to smile down on that quiet, peaceful scene in mid-December. + +Koreans never light their fires until evening comes and then they light +a fire at one end of the house, under the floor and the smoke and heat +travel the entire length of the house warming the rooms. It is a poor +heat maker but it is a picturesque custom. + +Thousands of flames lighted up the sky that night. The little thatch +houses, and the children in their quaint garbs moving against the flames +composed a strange Oriental Rembrandt picture. + + * * * * * + +Streets! Streets! Streets! + +Lights! Lights! Lights! + +Somehow streets and lights go together. + +We think of our great Broadway. We smile at our superior ingenuity when +we think of the "Great White Way." + +But for sheer beauty; fascinating, captivating, alluring, beauty; give +me the Ginza in Tokyo on a summer evening; with its millions of +twinkling little lights above the thousands of Oriental shops; with the +sound of bells, the whistle of salesmen, the laughter of beautiful +Japanese girls; the clacking of dainty feet in wooden shoes; and the +indefinable essence of romance that hovers over a street of this +Oriental type at night. I'll stake the romance, and beauty of the Ginza +in Tokyo, against any street in the world. He who has looked upon the +Ginza by night, has a Flash-Light of Flame; of tiny, myriad little +flaming lights; burned into his memory; to live until he sees at last +the lighted streets of Paradise itself. + + * * * * * + +Nor are the clothes of the Orient without their flaming colors. + +The beautiful kimonos of the Geisha girls of Japan; the crimson, gold, +and rose glory of the Sing Song Girls of China; the flashing reds of the +brown-skinned Spanish belles of the Philippines, as they glide, like +wind-blown Bamboo trees through the streets; and the lurid, livid, robes +which men and women alike wear in Borneo and Java. In fact all of the +clothes of the Orient, are flame-clothes. There are no quiet colors +woven into the gown of the Oriental. The Oriental does not know what +soft browns are. Crimson is the favorite color for man or woman. They +even make their sails red, blue, green and yellow. The beautiful colors +of the sailboats in the harbor of Yokohama is one of the first flashing +touches of the Orient that a traveler gets. From Japanese Obies, which +clasp the waists of Japanese girls, to Javanese Sarongs, the flame and +flash of crimson predominates in the gowns of both men and women. Where +an American man would blush to be caught in any sort of a gown with +crimson predominating save a necktie, the Japanese gentlemen, the +Filipino, the Malay, and the Javanese all wear high colors most of the +time. And the women are like splendid flaming bushes of fire all the +time. + +A Javanese bride is all flame as far as her dress is concerned. Her face +is powdered; her eyebrows are pencilled a coal black; her arms and +shoulders daubed with a yellow grease. As to her dress, the sarong is a +flaming robe that covers her body to the breasts; red being the dominant +color; with a crown of metal which looks like a beehive on her head. +Brass bracelets and ornaments on her graceful arms complete her costume. + + * * * * * + +Even the Pagodas and Temples of the Oriental lands are flame. + +The most beautiful Temples of Japan are the Nikko Temples. + +"See Nikko and you have seen Japan" is the saying that is well said. + +But when one has spent weeks or a week, days or a day at Nikko; he +comes away with an impression of beautiful, tall, terraced, +red-lacquered Pagodas; beautiful, graceful red-gowned women; beautiful, +architectural masterpieces of Oriental Temples; all finished in +wonderful red lacquer; beautiful red-cheeked women in the village +stores; beautiful red Kimonos for sale in the Curio shops; red berries +burning against the wonderful green grass; and all set off, against and +under, and crowned by wonderful green rows of great Cryptomaria trees. +These red Temples and these Red Pagodas--red with a red that is flaming +splendor of the last word in the lacquer artist's skill; are like +beautiful crimson jewels set in a setting of emerald. + +And back of all these Flash-Lights of Flame one remembers the path of a +single star on the smooth surface of Manila Bay at night; and the +phosphorescent beauty of Manila Bay where great ships cleave this lake +of fire when the phosphorus is heavy of a Summer night; and every ripple +is a ripple of flame. One remembers the continuous flash of heat +lightning down in Borneo and on Equatorial Seas; and one remembers the +Southern Cross; and the flash-lights of fire in a half-breed woman's +eyes. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +FLASH-LIGHTS PHYSICAL + + +The red dawn of tropical Java was near. The shadows of night were still +playing from millions of graceful Palm trees which swung gently in the +winds before the dawn. + +Three ancient volcanos, still rumbling in blatant activity, loomed like +gigantic monsters of the underworld, bulging their black shoulders above +the earth. Before us lay a valley of green rice paddies. + +We had roved over ancient Boroboedoer all night, exploring its haunted +crannies and corners, listening to its weird noises; dreaming through +its centuries of age; climbing its seven terraces. But in the +approaching dawn, the one outstanding thrill of the night was that of a +half-naked Javanese girl, who stood for an hour, poised in her brown +beauty on the top of one of the Bells of Buddha, with some weird +Javanese musical instrument, singing to the dawn. + +Then it came. + +"What? Her lover?" + +No! The dawn! The dawn was her lover! Or, perhaps her lover was old +Merapi. + +For, there, as we too, climbed to her strategic pinnacle of glory on top +of the Buddha Bell to watch the dawn that she had called up with her +weird music and her subtle brown beauty; before us, stretched thousands +of acres of green rice paddies, spread out like the Emerald lawn of an +Emerald Springtime in Heaven. Below us two silver streams of water met +and wedded, to go on as one. + +As we stood there that morning on the top of Boroboedoer's highest bell, +lines of Edna St. Vincent Millay swung into my soul: + + "All I could see from where I stood + Was three tall mountains and a wood." + +Only in this instance all I could see were three volcanos. And the one +in the center, old Merapi was belching out a trail of black smoke. These +three volcanos, take turns through the centuries. When one is working +the other two rest. When one ceases its activity, one of the others +takes up the thundering anthem and carries it on for a few years or +centuries and then lapses into silence, having done its part. While we +were there it was Merapi's turn to thunder and on this particular +morning Merapi was busy before daylight. + +For fifty miles along the horizon, a trail of black smoke swept like the +trail of black smoke which a train leaves in its wake on a still day. +There was not another cloud in the eastern skies. Nothing but that trail +of black smoke as we stood on the top of Boroboedoer at dawn and +watched. + +Then something happened. It was, as if some magician had waved a magic +wand back of the mountain. The rising sun was the magician. We saw its +heralds spreading out, like great golden fan-ribs with the cone of the +volcano, its direct center of convergence. Then before our astonished, +our utterly bewildered, and our fascinated eyes, that old volcanic cone +was changed to a cone of gold. Then the golden cone commenced to belch +forth golden smoke. And finally the trail of smoke for fifty miles along +the horizon became a trail of golden smoke. + +This was a Flash-Light that literally burned its way into our memories +to remain forever. + +There is another Flash-Light Physical which has to do with another +volcano which I mentioned in the preceding chapter. Bromo is its name. +It is still there, down on the extreme eastern end of Java, unless in +the meantime the old rascal has taken it into his demoniacal head to +blow himself to pieces as he threatened to do the day we lay on our +stomachs, holding on to the earth, with the sides trembling beneath us. + +Old Bromo was well named. It reminds one of Bromo-Seltzer. I had heard +of him long before I reached Java. I had heard of the Sand Plains down +into the midst of whose silver whiteness he was set, like a great +conical gem of dark purple by day and fire by night. + +Travelers said "You must see Bromo! You must see Bromo! If you miss +everything else see Bromo! It's the most completely satisfactory volcano +in the world." + +It was two o'clock in the morning when we started on little rugged +Javanese ponies up Bromo's steep slopes. + +At daybreak we reached the mile high cliff which looks down into the +world-famous Sand Sea. It was a sea of white fog. I have seen the same +thing at the Grand Canyon and in Yosemite looking down from the rims. I +thought of these great American canyons as I looked down into the Bromo +Sand Sea. By noon this was a great ten-mile long valley of silver sand +which glittered in the sunlight like a great silver carpeted ballroom +floor. Tourists from all over the world have thrilled to its strange +beauty. Like the gown of some great and ancient queen this silver cloth +lies there; or like some great silver rug of Oriental weaving it +carpeted that valley floor at noon. + +But at daybreak it was a sea of mist into which it looked as if one +might plunge, naked to the skin and wash his soul clean of its tropical +sweat and dirt; a fit swimming pool for the gods of Java, of whom there +are so many. + +Then something happened as we stood looking down into that smooth sea of +white fog, rolling in great billows below us. There was a sudden roar as +if an entire Hindenburg line had let loose with its "Heavies." There was +a sudden and terrific trembling of the earth under our feet which made +us jump back from that precipice in terror. + +Then slowly, as if it were on a great mechanical stage, the perfect cone +of old rumbling Bromo, from which curled a thin wisp of black smoke, +bulged its way out of the center of that sea of white fog, rising +gradually higher and higher as though the stage of the morning had been +set, the play had begun, and unseen stage hands behind the curtain of +fog, with some mighty derrick and tremendous power were lifting a huge +volcano as a stage piece. + +Then came the quick, burning tropical sun, shooting above the eastern +horizon as suddenly as the volcanic cone had been lifted above the fog. +This hot sun burned away the mists in a few minutes and there, +stretching below us, in all its oriental beauty was the sinewy, +voluptuous form of the silver sand sea--Bromo's subtle mistress. + + * * * * * + +There is another Physical Flash-light that will never die. + +Coming out of the Singapore Straits one evening at sunset, bound for the +island of Borneo across the South China Sea, I was sitting on the upper +deck of a small Dutch ship. The canvas flapped in the winds. A cool, +tropical breeze fanned our faces. Back of us in our direct wake a +splashing, tumbling, tumultuous tropical sunset flared across the sky. +It was crimson glory. In the direct path of the crimson sun a lighthouse +flashed its blinking eyes like a musical director with his baton beating +time. + +I watched this flashing, lesser, light against the crimson sunset and +was becoming fascinated by it. + +Then great black clouds began to roll down over that crimson background +as if they were huge curtains, rolled down from above, to change the +setting of the western stage for another act. + +But as they rolled they formed strange and beautiful Doric columns +against the crimson skies and before I knew it, I was looking at the +ruins of an old Greek temple in the sky. Then the black clouds formed a +perfect hour-glass reaching from the sea to the sky, with its background +of crimson glory, and the little lighthouse seemed to be flashing off +the minutes in the arteries of that hour-glass. + +And then it was night a deep, dense, tropical night; heavy with +darkness; rich with perfume; weird with mystery. But the sunset of +crimson; the Doric temple in ruins; the hour-glass; and the flashing +lighthouse still remained. + + * * * * * + +And who shall ever forget the sunsets of gold across Manila Bay night +after night; with great warships and majestic steamers, sleek and +slender cutters, white sails, long reaching docks, and graceful Filipino +women, silhouetted against the gold? And who shall forget the domes, +towers, and pinnacles of the Cathedrals; and the old fort within the +city walls as they too were silhouetted against the gold of the evening? + + * * * * * + +Mt. Taishan, the oldest worshiping place on earth, not far from the +birthplace of Confucius; in Shantung; is one of the most sacred shrines +of the Orient. There, countless millions, for hundreds of centuries, +have climbed over six thousand granite steps, up its mile high slope to +pay their vows; to catch a view of the blue sea from its imminence; to +feel the sweep, wonder and glory of its sublime height, knowing that +Confucius himself gloried in this climb. The exaltation of that glorious +view; shall live, side by side, with the view from the top of the Black +Diamond range in Korea one winter's night as we caught the full sweep +of the Japan Sea by sunset. In fact these all shall live as great +mountain top Physical Flash-Lights etched with the acid of a burning +wonder into one's soul! + +Nor shall one ever forget a month's communion with Fujiyama, that +solitary, great and worshiped mountain of Japan; sacred as a shrine; +beautiful with snow; graceful as a Japanese woman's curving cheek; +bronzed by summer; belted with crimson clouds by sunset like a Japanese +woman's Obie. It, too, presented its unforgettable Physical +Flash-Lights. + +The first glimpse was one of untold spun-gold glory. There it stood. + +"There it is! There it is! Look!" a fellow traveler cried. + +"There is what?" I called. We were on top of a great American College +building in Tokyo. + +"It's Fuji!" + +I had given up hope. We had been there two weeks and Fujiyama was not to +be seen. The mists, fogs, and clouds of winter had kept it hidden from +our wistful, wondering, waiting eyes. + +But there it stood, like a naked man, unashamed; proud of its white +form; without a single cloud; burning in the white sunlight. Its huge +shoulders were thrown back as with suppressed strength. Its white chest, +a Walt Whitman hairy with age; gray-breasted with snow; bulged out like +some mighty wrestler, challenging the world. No wonder they worship it! + +I had gloried in Fujiyama from many a varied viewpoint. I had caught +this great shrine of Japanese devotion in many of its numberless moods. +I had seen it outlined against a clear-cut morning sunlight, bathed in +the glory of a broadside of light fired from the open muzzle of the sun. +I had seen it shrouded in white clouds; and also with black clouds +breeding a storm, at even-time. I had seen it with a crown of white upon +its brow, and I had seen it with a necklace of white cloud pearls about +its neck. + +Once I saw this great mountain looking like some ominous volcano through +a misty gray winter evening. And one mid-afternoon I saw it almost +circled by a misty rainbow, a sight never to be forgotten on earth or in +heaven by one whose soul considers a banquet of beauty more worth +shouting over than an invitation to feast with a King. + +But the last sight I caught of Fuji was the last night that I was in +Tokyo, as I rode up from the Ginza on New Year's eve out toward Aoyama +Gakuin, straight into a sunset, unsung, unseen by mortal eye. + +Before me loomed the great mountain like a monstrous mass of mighty +ebony carved by some delicate and yet gigantic artist's hand. + +I soon discovered where the artist got the ebony from which to carve +this pointed mountain of ebony with its flat top; for far above this +black silhouetted mountain was a mass of ebony clouds that seemed to +spread from the western horizon clear to the rim of the eastern horizon +and beyond into the unseen Sea of Japan in the back yard of the island. +It was from this mass of coal-black midnight-black clouds that the giant +artist carved his ebony Fuji that night. + +But not all was black. Perhaps the giant forged that mountain rather +than carved it, for there was a blazing furnace behind Fuji. And this +furnace was belching fire. It was not crimson. It was not gold. It was +not red. It was fire. + +It was furnace fire. It was a Pittsburgh blast-furnace ten thousand +times as big as all of Pittsburgh itself, belching fire and flames of +sparks. These sparks were flung against the evening skies. Some folks, I +fancy, on that memorable night called them stars; but I know better. +They were giant sparks flung from that blast-furnace which was booming +and roaring behind Fuji. I could not hear it roar; that is true; but I +could feel it roar. I could not hear it because even so great a sound as +that furnace must have been making will not travel sixty miles, even +though it was as still up there in the old theological tower as a +country cemetery by winter down in Rhode Island when the snow covers the +graves. + +Then suddenly a flare of fire shot up directly behind the cone of Fuji, +flaming into the coal-bank of clouds above the mountain, as if the old +shaggy seer had forgotten his age and was dreaming of youth again when +the earth was young and he was a volcano. + +Above that streak of fire and mingled with it, black smoke seemed to +pour until it formed a flat cloud of black smoke directly above the +cone, and spread out like a fan across the sky to give the giant artist +further ebony to shape his mountain monument. + +Then Fuji suddenly belched its volcano of color and lava; of rose and +gold, amber, salmon, primrose, sapphire, marigold; and in a stream these +poured over Fuji's sides and down along the ridge-line of the lesser +hills until they too were covered with a layer of molten glory a mile +thick. + +The clouds above Fuji forgot to be black. In fact, their mood of +sullenness departed as by magic, and a smile swept over their massive +mood of moroseness, and glory swept the skies. It was as if that furnace +behind Fuji had suddenly burst, throwing its molten fire over the hills, +the mountains, the sky, the world. + +And "mine eyes" had "seen the glory of the coming of the Lord." And that +was enough for any man for one lifetime. + + * * * * * + +Then there is beautiful Boroboedoer down in Java. It is a Physical +Flash-Light that looms with its huge and mysterious historical +architectural beauty like some remnant of the age when the gods of +Greece roamed the earth. A sunrise from its pinnacled height I have +already described, but the temple itself is unforgettable. There is +nothing like it on the earth. + +Boroboedoer is one of the wonders of the world, although little known. +It is in the general shape of the pyramid of Egypt, but more beautiful. +One writer says, "Boroboedoer represents more human labor and artistic +skill than the great pyramids." Mr. Alfred Russel Wallace says: "The +human labor and skill expended on Boroboedoer is so great that the labor +expended on the great pyramid sinks into significance beside it." + +Boroboedoer was built in the seventh century A.D., by the Javanese under +Hindu culture. Then came the Mohammedan invasion, destroying all such +works of art in its pathway. + +It is said that the priests so loved this beautiful Buddha temple that +they covered it over with earth and then planted trees and tropical +vegetation on it. In six months it was so overgrown that it looked like +a hill. This is one explanation of why it lay for a thousand years +unknown. + +The volcanic ashes undoubtedly helped in this secretion, for old Merapi +even now belches its ashes, rocks and dust out over the beautiful valley +down upon which Merapi looks. + +From Djodjakarta you go to the temples. + +This great temple has, instead of the plain surfaces of the great +pyramid, one mile of beautifully carved decorations, with 2141 separate +panels depicting the life of Buddha from the time he descended from the +skies until he arrived at Nirvana, or perfect isolation from the world. +A history of more than a thousand years is told in its stone tablets by +the sculptor's chisel, told beautifully, told enduringly, told +magnificently. + +One writer says: "This temple is the work of a master-builder whose +illuminated brain conceived the idea of this temple wherein he writes in +sculpture the history of a religion." + +And again one says architecturally speaking of it: + +"It is a polygonous pyramid of dark trachyte, with gray cupulas on +jutting walls and projecting cornices, a forest of pinnacles." + +There are four ledges to this hill temple and above each ledge or stone +path are rows of Buddhas hidden in great 5-foot stone bells, and at the +top crowning the temple a great 50-foot bell in which Buddha is +completely hidden from the world, symbol of the desired Nirvana that all +Buddhists seek. + +Mysterious with weird echoes of a past age it stands, silhouetted +against a flaming sky to-night as I see it for the first time. It is +late evening and all day long we have been climbing the ancient ruins of +that magnificent age of Hindu culture on the island of Java. This temple +of Boroboedoer was to be the climax of the day, and surely it is all of +that. + +The fire dies out of the sky. The seven terraces of the stone temple +begin to blur into one great and beautiful pyramid. Only the innumerable +stone bells stand out against the starlit night; stone bells with the +little peepholes in them, through which the stolid countenances and the +stone eyes of many Buddhas, in calm repose, look out upon the four +points of the compass. + +Night has fallen. We have seen the great Temple by crimson sunset and +now we shall see it by night. + +The shadows seem to wrap its two thousand exquisite carvings, and its +Bells of Buddha in loving and warm tropical embrace. But no warmer, is +the embrace of the shadows about the Temple than the naked embrace of a +score of Javanese boys who hold to their hearts naked Javanese beauties +who sit along the terraces looking into the skies of night utterly +oblivious to the passing of time or of the presence of curious American +strangers. + +Love is such a natural thing to these Javanese equatorial brown brawn +and beauties that unabashed they lie, on Buddha's silent bells, breast +to breast, cheek to cheek, and limb to limb; as if they have swooned +away in the warmth of the tropical night. + +The Southern Cross looks down upon lover and tourist as we all +foregather on the topmost terrace of that gigantic shadow-pyramid of +granite. + +The sound of the innumerable naked footsteps of all past ages seems to +patter along the stone terraces. Now and then the twang of the Javanese +angklong and the beautiful notes of a flute sweep sweetly into the +shadowed air. + +Then comes the dancing of a half dozen Javanese dancing girls, naked to +the waist, their crimson and yellow sarongs flying in the winds of +night, as, in slow, graceful movements, facing one of the Bells of +Buddha they pay their vows and offer their bodies and their souls to +Buddha; and evidently, also to the Javanese youths who accompany them in +their dances. + +The sound of the voices of these Javanese girls--who in the shadows look +for all the world like figures that Rodin might have dreamed--mingling +their laughter with the weird music; shall linger long in one's memory +of beautiful things. + +Their very nakedness seemed to fit in with the spirit of the night; a +spirit of complete abandonment to beauty and worship. In their attitudes +there seemed to be a mingling of religion and earthly passion; but it +was so touched with reverence that we felt no shock to our American +sensibilities. + +All night long we wandered about the terraces of the old Temple. + +We wondered how long the Javanese girls would remain. + +At dawn when we arose to see Boroboedoer by daylight they were still +there as fresh as the dawn itself in their brown beauty, the dew of +night glistening in their black hair and wetting their full breasts. + +And across, from Boroboedoer the sun, in its dawning splendor, was +transforming belching and rumbling old volcanic Merapi into a cone of +gold. + +[Illustration: LOOKING OVER THE WALLED CITY OF MANILA, AMERICAN SOLDIERS +SCALED THIS WALL A FEW YEARS AGO TO STAY.] + +[Illustration: BEAUTIFUL FILIPINO GIRLS ALL OF WHOM SPEAK ENGLISH.] + +[Illustration: KOREAN GIRLS WITH AMERICAN IDEALS AND TRAINING.] + +[Illustration: STEPPING ASIDE IN KOREA TO LET THE AMERICAN DEVIL WAGON +GO BY.] + + + + +CHAPTER III + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAITH + + +He was an old man; gray-haired, gray-bearded; gray-gowned; and he knew +that the Japanese Gendarmes would just as soon take his life as light a +cigarette. They do each with inhumane impunity. One means as much to +them as the other. + +He was under arrest for conspiracy in the Independence Movement. + +"Do you know about the Independence Movement?" he was asked. + +"Yes, I know all about it," was his fearless reply; though he knew that +that reply in itself might mean his death; even without trial or further +evidence. Just the fact that he had admitted that he knew anything at +all about the movement was enough to throw him into prison. He was like +an old Prophet in his demeanor. Something about the very dignity and +sublime Faith of the man awed the souls of these crude barbarians from +the Island Empire. + +"Since when was it begun?" asked the Gendarmes. + +"Since ten years ago when you Japanese first came to Korea," was the +dignified reply. + +"From whence did it spring?" he was asked next. + +"From the hearts of twenty million people!" + +"Did twenty millions of people all get together then, and plan?" + +"Not together in body but in spirit!" + +"But there must have been some men to start it?" the Japanese Gendarme +said. + +"They all started it!" was the old man's reply. + +"Is there no one who had charge of this movement from the beginning?" + +"Yes, there is one!" + +"Do you know him?" + +"I know him well!" + +"What is his name?" + +"His name is God!" said this seventy-year old, fearless Christian Korean +Patriot. + +Such faith as I have indicated in the paragraphs above is a common thing +in Korea. Never in the history of the world have Christian people been +subjected to the same tortures, the same cruelties, the same terrors, +for their Faith as the early Christian martyrs; save these; the Koreans. + +We had thought that the world had gotten past that day when men would be +tortured, crushed, persecuted, and killed because they were Christians +but that day is not yet past as almost any American Missionary in Korea +will testify. + +The Japanese officials will say that there is no persecution because of +Christianity; but missionaries in Korea know better. They will point to +countless incidents when men, women and children have been hounded, and +persecuted for no other reason than that they were Christians. + +"And when Jesus heard it, He marveled greatly and said to them that +followed, Verily I say unto you I have not found so great faith, no, not +in Israel!" might well be said of the Korean Christians every hour, +every minute, every second. They know what it means to die for their +Faith. + +The story of Pak Suk Han is one of the most thrilling illustrations of +Faith that I have ever heard in Oriental lands. He had been a Christian +since he was seven years of age. He was a brilliant speaker and the +Assistant Pastor of the First Methodist Church at Pyeng Yang, where, +even the non-Christians loved him. He was arrested on Independence Day +and sent to prison where a barbarous Japanese officer, whom the natives +called "The Brute" kicked him in the side because he would not give up +his Christ. From that kick and further inhuman treatment running over a +period of six months; a disease developed which a most reliable +missionary doctor told me ended Pak Suk Han's life. + +When he knew that he was about to die he said, "I have been a Christian +and have served the church since I was seven years old. I have given my +life to Christ, all but the last six months in prison which I have given +to my country. I have no regrets. I might have lived had I been willing +to deny my nation's rights and give up my Christ. I am going home to my +Father's house. Good-by!" No Christian martyrs in the early centuries of +the persecutions by Rome ever died with greater glory in their souls; or +with deeper Faith! + + * * * * * + +The temperature was zero. + +The cold had swept down over night from the Siberian and Manchurian +plains across the city of Seoul. The capital city of Korea was shivering +with cold. But it was vibrant with something else. It was vibrant with a +great sense of something impending. + +There were those who said that the restlessness in the souls of the +Koreans had died down with the terrible days of the March Independence +Movement; but I knew that the faith of the people was deeper than that. +I knew that the flame of faith was just smouldering. + +I sensed this from the conversation of old-time missionaries who had +been in Korea from the very beginning. I sensed it in the conversation +of young Koreans who had graduated from American schools. It was there; +a vibrant, living, pulsing, faith in God and in the justice of their +hopes: the Independence of Korea. + +The whole thing was summed up for me in a flash. It was a flash of the +light of a tremendous faith that blinded mine eyes for a day; but my +soul it lighted as with a great eternal light. + +A Korean boy stepped into the home of a missionary friend of mine, whose +name I dare not use. If I did he would likely be sent home by the +Japanese. Men have been sent home for less. + +The snow crunched under his feet as he walked up across the yard and the +porch. He knocked at the door. + +"Come in," said the missionary, kindly. + +The boy stepped in. The missionary had never seen him before. The boy +was moved deeply as with a great emotion. He seemed to have carried into +that quiet missionary home with him some of the tenseness of the outside +air and some of the tenseness of the political situation. + +"What do you want?" asked the missionary. + +"I want to talk with you about something very important," he replied in +Korean. + +"All right! Go ahead! Do not be afraid. I am your friend!" + +"So I know. All missionaries are our friends." + +"Then you need not be afraid to talk." + +"No!" said the boy. But he did not talk. His agitation was growing more +marked. + +"Go on, my boy! Tell me what you came for." + +The Korean boy looked at the half open door which led into the kitchen. +The missionary, without a word, stepped over and closed that door, +because he understood. + +The boy himself closed a door which led into the missionary's study. For +in Korea in these days no home; not even a missionary's home, is free +from spies. + +The boy started to talk hurriedly. The missionary soon saw that he was +not talking about the thing that he had come for. + +"Come to the point! Come to the point! You did not come to me, in such +secrecy, to talk commonplace things like that!" said the missionary a +bit sharply. + +Then the boy suddenly dropped to his knees behind the missionary's desk +and whipped out a big knife. Then he took from his white gown a long +piece of white cloth. This he laid out on the floor. Then he opened his +sharp knife with a quick motion and before the missionary knew it, he +had ripped the index finger of his right hand, from, the tip to the +palm, clear to the bone, until the blood spurted all over the floor. + +"What are you doing, my boy?" cried the missionary. + +The boy smiled a sublime smile and then knelt on his knees over the +white cloth and before the missionary's tear-misty eyes wrote across the +immaculate cloth in his own blood the words: "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei! +Korean Independence Forever! Self-determination!" + +Then underneath these words in a few swift strokes in his own blood he +drew a picture of the Korean flag. And as he drew, now and then the +blood would not flow fast enough; and he took his knife, as one primes a +fountain pen; and cut a bit deeper to open new veins in order that the +flag of his country and the declaration of his faith might be written in +the deepest colors that his own veins could furnish. + +Finally, after what seemed hours he jumped to his feet and handed the +missionary that flag; crying as he did so: "That is our faith! That is +the way we Koreans feel! You are going back to America! We want America +to know that our faith in the Independence of Korea has not died! The +fire burns higher to-day than ever. The Japanese cruelties are worse! +The need is greater! The oppression is more terrible! Our determination +is deeper than ever before! I have come here this day, knowing that you +are going back to America; I came to write these words in my own blood +that you may know; and that America may know; that our faith is a flame +which burns out like the beacon lights on the Korean hills, never to +die!" + + * * * * * + +The most scintillating Flash-light of Faith that I saw in the Orient was +in the Philippine Islands. We were traveling the jungle trail to visit a +tribe of naked Negritos. These are diminutive people who look like +American negroes only they are much smaller; much more underfed, and who +live in trees very much like the Orangutans of Borneo. They eat roots +and nuts. They hunt with bows and arrows. + +They are the lowest tribe in mentality on the Islands. + +It was a terribly hot, tropical day and I had a sunstroke on the way up +the mountainside to this Negrito village. + +I did not expect to get back alive. + +For three solid hours under a killing tropical sun, without the proper +cork helmet and protection, a pile driver kept hammering down on my +head. I felt it at every step I took. Finally I dropped unconscious on +the trail. After several hours I was able to proceed to the top of the +mountain, where the Negritos were camped. + +We got there about two o'clock and had lunch. As we ate about fifty +Negritos swarmed about us. + +They were a horrible looking crowd; stark naked, filthy with dirt; +starved to skin and bones; and animal-like in every look and move. + +I was so sick that I was not able to eat the lunch which had been +provided in baskets. I lay on my back trying to get back my strength. + +As the rest of the expedition ate, the Negritos with hungry eyes, +crowded closer. + +One hideous old man was in the forefront of the natives. He was so +hideous looking that he was sickeningly repulsive to me as I looked at +him crouched as he was like an animal with a streak of sunlight playing +on his face. + +This streak of sunlight, with ruthless severity, made the ugly scabs of +dirt stand out on his old wrinkled face. That face had not felt the +touch of water in years. His whole body was covered with dirt and sores. +Wherever the sunlight struck on that black body it revealed scales like +those on a mangy dog. His body was also covered with gray hairs matted +into the dirt. + +"That old codger represents the nearest thing to an animal that the +human being can reach," said McLaughlin, one of the oldest missionaries +on the island. + +"You're right!" I said. "He looks as much like a Borneo Orangutan as any +human being I ever saw." + +"And he lives like one, too; up in a tree in a nest of matted limbs and +grass," said another. + +"I've traveled among the wild tribes of the world all my life and I have +seen the lowest human beings on earth; in Africa, South America, +Malaysia, Borneo, Java--Australia--everywhere," said a widely traveled +man in the crowd, "and I never saw a type as low in the scale as that +old fellow!" + +So we discussed him as the lunch proceeded. He did not know, of course, +that we had consigned him to the lowest rung on the ladder of humanity, +so he just sat looking at us with his animal-like eyes as we ate; and at +me as I lay under a tree trying to recover my strength for the trip +back. + +"He is not a human being!" added a philosopher in the crowd. "He is +lower than that stage. He doesn't seem to have a single spark of +humanity left in him!" + +Then the meal over; the missionaries started to hand out what was left +of the food to these starving Negritos. The old man whom we had decided +was the lowest type of a human being on earth seemed, after all, to be +the leader of the tribe; no doubt because of his age; perhaps because of +something else which we were later to discover. + +McLaughlin handed out a sandwich to the old man. + +"Did he eat it himself?" + +"He did not! He handed it to a child near by." + +McLaughlin handed out another sandwich which was left. + +"Did the old man, whom we had decided was more of an animal than a human +being, eat that one?" + +"He did not. He took it over behind a tree where another old man was +timidly hiding and gave it to him." + +McLaughlin handed out another sandwich. + +"Did the old man eat that one?" + +"He did not. He took it over and gave it to an old woman near by." + +And so it continued, until every last piece of food was disposed of. +That old man; whom we had decided was an animal; saw to it, that every +man, woman, and child in that crowd was fed before he took a single bite +himself. + +Then he suddenly disappeared. In half an hour he came back with an +armful of great, broad, palm leaves. He spread these out on the ground +in the shade of a tree; did this old man; this hideous looking monster; +and then motioned for me to lie down on the bed he had made for me. He +saw that I was sick. + +Then he disappeared once again, and when he returned he was carrying a +long Bamboo-tube full of clear, cool water which he had gotten from a +mountain spring. He brought it to where I was lying on the bed he had +made for me and with this water he cooled my fevered, burning head; and +from this water he gave me to drink; he whom we had decided was the +lowest type of a human being on earth. + +And I am writing here to say; that I have never seen a "cup of cold +water given in His name" that was given with a higher, or a deeper sense +of the Divine spark of God in humanity than I saw that tropical summer +afternoon, and this water was given by the naked Negrito whom we had +decided was the lowest human being on the earth. Yet even in this +animal-man; even in this naked savage; there was a spark of the Divine +that made us forever have a deeper and a more abiding faith that God +never did and never shall make a man to live on this old earth that He +did not have some purpose in making him. + +A few days before I took this trip up into the jungles of Luzon to visit +this Negrito tribe I had received a copy of a slender volume of poems by +Edna St. Vincent Millay. In the cool beauty of the tropical evening +preceding this trip I had read the last lines of its introductory poem +called "Interim"; and these lines came flashing into my mind, even as I +lay on the hot earth on that Luzon hillside. I can still remember the +honey dripping like rain from the Cocoanut trees, and I can still hear +the ceaseless and maddening cry of millions of Locusts that hot day; but +suddenly came this beautiful outpouring of faith from, the cool depths +of a woman's woodland soul: + + "Not Truth but Faith, it is + That keeps the world alive! If, all at once + Faith were to slacken,--that unconscious faith + Which must, I know, yet be the corner-stone + Of all believing--birds now flying fearless + Across would drop in terror to the earth; + Fishes would drown; and the all-governing reins + Would tangle in the frantic hands of God + And the worlds gallop headlong to destruction!" + +That day bred new faith into my soul! + +I have told this story of the naked Negrito a hundred times since that +eventful day and it kindles new flames of faith in human hearts every +time it is repeated! Mr. Edmund Vance Cooke, the poet, heard it in +Cleveland where I spoke in a Chautauqua programme and he said to me +several months later in my home at Detroit, Michigan, "That was the most +thrilling story of the Divine spark in a savage soul that I have ever +heard! It gave me new faith in God and in humanity!" + +These, and a thousand other Flashlights of Faith come flashing out of +that Far Eastern background; the sublime faith of thousands of college +men and women who are giving their lives because they believe that +savages and barbarians, such as I have described in this Negrito; Do +have that spark of the Divine in their souls; faith that Christian +civilization, and Christian education; and a Christian God, may awaken +that spark. + +And, indeed many a proof do they have of this miracle! Only the other +day from an American School, a girl from darkest Africa graduated as a +Phi Beta Kappa honor scholar. Bishop William A. Taylor picked up this +girl as a naked child in the jungles of Africa less than a quarter of a +century ago! + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FEAR + + +Quick, short, sharp signals shot down the speaking tube from the bridge. + +The Chief Engineer of the _Santa Cruz_ yelled across the boiler room. + +The bell rang for reverse and the entire ship shivered. + +A woman on deck screamed, and there was a rush to the railings, for the +old boat had been slowly making its way up the winding, treacherous +Saigon River out of the China Sea into French Indo-China. + +"Those damned Chinks again, trying to escape the Devil!" + +"What's the matter, Pop?" some one asked the captain. + +"That sampan full of Chinks was trying to get away from the River Devil, +so they shot across our bow to fool him and we nearly ran them down." + +"Do they often indulge in that little friendly game with the Devil?" I +asked him, smiling at his seriousness. + +"Every time we enter one of these rivers they do it. I killed six of +them going up the river at Shanghai a year ago. It gives me the creeps +every time I see them shoot across our bow. A ship like this will cut +'em in two like a knife!" + +We looked over the green railing of the _Santa Cruz_. The big ship had +almost come to a stop for the engines were still in reverse and the +shallow river mud was churned up until the otherwise clear water looked +like a muddy pond. The little sampan, full of grinning, naked Chinese +coolies was fifty feet away from us, and our American sailors were +swearing at them in every language they knew and shaking big, brawny, +brown fists in their grinning direction. + +It was considered a joke by the passengers but it was a very real thing +to these poor ignorant Chinese. One sees this happen everywhere in the +Orient. For the Chinaman starts out every morning in his sampan with the +worst kind of a River Devil after him. He must rid himself of that +Devil. So, when a big ship comes into sight, he waits until its bow is +very close and then darts in front of its pathway. The idea is, that +when a sampan full of Chinamen shoots in front of a big ship the Devil +is supposed to follow the ship all that day, and let the Chinese junk or +sampan alone. + +[Illustration: CONFUCIUS' TOMB AT CHUFU, CHINA.] + +[Illustration: RUIN OF THE MING TOMBS. + +The turtle, the symbol of long life, is almost as common in China as the +dragon.] + +[Illustration: GRINDING RICE IN CHINA.] + +[Illustration: A CAMEL TRAIN FROM THE PLAINS OF MONGOLIA ENTERS PEKING +ON A WINTER'S DAY.] + +It is the pest of an American seaman's life, for even a seaman hates to +see a human being drowned. + +To an American mind this seems ridiculous. It even seems humorous. I +shall never forget how the passengers laughed when the captain told them +why he had had to reverse his engines to keep from crushing the frail +Chinese sampan. But suddenly the thought came to one of the passengers; +that to the poor Chinaman the fear which made him do that foolish thing +and the fear which made him take that awful risk was very real. + +"Under God, the poor Devils must have an awful life if they have such a +fear as that in their souls day and night!" said an Englishman. + +"They never start out for a day's work that they are not haunted every +minute of that day by a thousand devils, ill-omens, and bad spirits +which are constantly hovering about to leap on them and kill them!" said +a missionary. "The whole Orient is full of the thought of fear!" + +This missionary was right. Paul Hutchinson, Editor of the _Chinese +Christian Advocate_ and one of the real literary men of the Americans +who are permanent residents of Shanghai, told me of a Chinese boy who +was graduating from a Christian College in Nanking. The boy had been for +four years under the influence of Americans. He could speak good +English. He was about ready to go to America to school when he had +completed his work at Nanking. + +He, with a younger brother, was at home for the Christmas vacation. On +the way back to college the younger brother fell overboard into the +river. The older brother was not a coward. Everybody will testify to +that. In fact he was unusually courageous. But in spite of the fact that +his puny brother was able to swim to the side of the small boat, and in +spite of the fact that he begged his older and stronger brother to pull +him back into the boat, that older brother refused to do so. + +"Why?" + +Mr. Hutchinson says that the English teacher heard the tale in terror, +but that the brother took it as a matter of course, explaining that the +River Devil would most certainly have caught and dragged into the water, +any person who should have dared to attempt a rescue of his brother. + +It is an established thing in China; that if a native falls into the +river, he never gets out unless he pulls himself out. Nobody will help +him, for if they do, that will incur the wrath of the River God and the +rescuer also will be dragged down to his death. + +It is assumed that if a person falls into the river that is the River +God pulling him in. + +The constant fear of this River God is so deeply intrenched in these +poor souls that they take no pleasure on the water and they carry their +sense of fear to such an extent that they will not even attempt a rescue +of their own babies or loved ones if these happen to fall into the +water. + +Mr. Hutchinson calls attention to Dr. E. D. Soper's book "The Faiths of +Mankind" in which there is an entire chapter called "Where Fear Holds +Sway." + +"Where is it that fear holds sway?" the reader asks. + +The answer is, "In the Orient"! + +Yes, the whole Orient is one great gallery of dim, uncertain, weird, +mysterious Flash-lights of Fear. + +Paul Hutchinson says: + + "It is impossible for the Westerner to conceive such an + atmosphere until he has lived in it. In fact he may live in it + for years and never realize the hold which it has upon his + native neighbors. But it is no exaggeration to say that, to the + average Chinese, the air is peopled with countless spirits, + most of them malignant, all attempting to do him harm. Even a + catalogue of the devils, such as have been named by the + scholarly Jesuit, Father Dore, is too long for the limits of + this article. But there they are, millions of them. They hover + around every motion of every waking hour, and they enter the + sanctity of sleep. An intricate system of circumnavigating + them, that makes the streets twist in a fashion to daze + Boston's legendary cow and puts walls in front of doors to + belie the hospitality within, runs through the social order." + +This fear is even expressed in Chinese architecture. + +"Why is that strange wall built in front of every household door and +even before the Temples?" I asked a friend in China. + +"It is put there to fool the devils. They will see that wall and think +that there is no door and then will go away and not bother that house +any more," I was told. + +The very architecture of the Chinese home is to keep the devils out. The +strange curves with the graceful upward sweep that makes the roofs so +beautiful to American eyes is for the purpose of throwing devils of the +air off the track. They will come down from the skies and start down the +curve of the roofs but will be turned back into the skies again by the +upward slant of the twisted roofs. + +It was this same terrible sense of fear which developed the old surgical +system that the Koreans and Chinese used before the arrival of the +missionaries. + +"Do you see these needles?" an American surgeon in Korea asked me one +day, as he pointed to about a hundred of the most horrible looking +copper and brass needles lying on a stand. + +"Yes," I admitted, mystified. + +"I have taken every one of them out of the bodies of human beings on +whom I have operated here in the hospital." + +"Where did you find them?" + +"In between the bowels, in the muscles, in the organs of the body, and +one in the heart of a man who came to me because he couldn't breathe +very well." + +"No wonder the fellow couldn't breathe. I don't think I could myself if +I had a needle in my blood-pump!" I said with a smile. + +"These fancy needles that the old Korean doctors thought a good deal of +they put a handle on," he continued. + +"What was that for?" + +"So they wouldn't lose their needles in a body. The other, or common +needles, they just stuck into the body wherever the wound or sore place +was and left them there." + +"And what, may I ask, was the idea of this playful Korean surgery! Was +it something like our 'button, button, whose got the button?'" + +"No, the idea was that there were devils in the wound. If it was a +swelling there was a devil in that swelling. If it was typhoid fever, +and there was pain in the bowels, there was a devil in the inward parts +affected, and so, after carefully sterilizing the needle by running it +through his long, black, greasy hair, the native doctor would run it +into the affected part of the body to kill the devil or let it escape +from the body." + +"The old idea of a fear religion, a fear social life, a fear family life +and a fear surgery prevails in Korea as it does in China?" I said by way +of a question. + +"It prevails everywhere in the Orient. To me it is the most awful thing +about working out here. The awful sense of constant fear that is on the +people always and everywhere." + +Pounded-up claws of a tiger; the red horn of a deer; pulverized fish +bones; roots of trees, pigs' eyes; and a thousand poisons and +fear-remedies make up the medical history of the Oriental doctor. + +"Why do they kill girl babies?" + +"Fear!" + +"Fear of what?" + +"Fear of devils! The devils will be displeased if a girl baby is born. +Therefore kill the baby. + +"Throw the babies out on the ground in the graveyards. Let the dogs eat +the babies." + +I heard the dogs howling in a cemetery one night about two o'clock in +the morning as I was coming through the thousands of little conical +mounds, with here and there an unburied coffin. + +"The dogs are having a baby feast to-night," said an old missionary. + +"Why?" + +"To appease the devils." + +"My God man; you don't mean that they let the dogs eat their babies +because they are afraid of the devil?" I cried. + +"I mean just that," replied the missionary. + +"Fear! Fear! Fear! Everywhere. Fear by night and fear by day. They never +escape it. It is fear that makes them worship their ancestors. It is +fear that makes them worship idols. It is fear that makes them kill +their girl babies. It is fear that makes them build their little narrow +winding streets, which after a while must become so filthy; fear that if +they do not, the devils will find them; and if they do build their +streets narrow and winding the devils will get lost searching for them. +Oh, God, fear, fear, everywhere! The Orient is full of a terrible and a +constant fear!" + +I looked at my friend astonished. He seldom went into such emotional +outbursts. He was judicial, calm, poised; some said, cold. But this +constant sense of fear that was upon the people had finally broken down +his reserve of poise. + +"The chimneys are beautiful. See that beautiful upward dip in the +architecture. They are like the roofs," I said. + +"But that beautiful, symmetrical development did not come out of a sense +of beauty. It came to fool the devils just as we have said of the roofs. +The devils will glide off into space and will never be able to get down +the chimneys." It is so in other Oriental countries. + + * * * * * + +The same is true in the Philippine Islands. The whole fabric of human +life is permeated with the black thread of fear. + +It is true of China and Korea; it is true of Borneo to a marked degree; +and it is true of that great mass of conglomerate humanity that we think +of as India. + +These and other flash-lights of fear remain, and shall remain forever in +my mind. But of a fifty thousand mile trip among hundreds of millions of +human beings; pictures of fear stand out, blurred here and there; but +clear enough in outline so that I can still see the human faces against +a background of midnight darkness. + +Three pictures are clearer than the others. Perhaps it was because the +flash that focused them on the plate of my mind was stronger. Perhaps it +was, that the plate of my soul was more sensitive the days these +impressions were focused. But they stand out; three flash-lights of fear +above all: + +One was told me by Zela Wiltsie Worley, a college girl, now a +missionary's wife, who has known what it means to lie on the floor of +her home an entire morning with machine gun bullets crashing through +her home, between the fire of two revolutionary armies. + +"I was talking with my Amah--she is the girl who cares for our +children," said Mrs. Worley. + +I nodded that I understood that. + +"We were bathing the baby--our first wee kiddie--and the Amah seemed to +have an unusual inclination to talk. I had been joking with her and +asked her if she did not want to buy Clara Gene. In fun we started the +characteristic Chinese haggling over price, she trying to 'jew' me up +and I trying to 'jew' her down. + +"'Oh!' she said, 'girl babies are very expensive the last two or three +years. Now you have to pay over ten dollars to get a nice fat one! +Before that, if you did not drown them, you had an awfully hard time to +get rid of them. There was a man in our town to whom we took the +babies--the girl babies I mean. He would go up and down the streets with +them and sell them to any one who would give him a chicken and a bowl of +rice in return.' + +"'But do they drown the girl babies now?' I asked the Amah. + +"'Oh, yes, of course, if you already have one or two boys. You know, in +my village I am the only Christian. My own family and the rest of the +village worship idols. They are afraid of their gods. They do not know +any better. Why my sister almost drowned my second little boy by +mistake. He had just arrived and she thought that he was a girl, and had +already stuck his head down in a pail of water when I rescued him.' + +"'But who usually kills the girl babies?' I asked. 'Surely not the +mother?' + +"'Yes, she does. She is so afraid when she finds it is only a girl, +afraid that the gods will be angry because she has brought another girl +into the world, that she kills it!' + +"'Do they bury it then?' + +"'Sometimes they wrap it up, and throw it under a pile of rubbish. You +know, we do not have coffins made for any of our babies who die before +they have had their first teeth! I have seen so many babies drowned, +Mrs. Worley. I never did like it. They cry so!' + +"Then I inquired of our Chinese teacher's wife if she knew of girl baby +killing still going on in China. + +"'Just last week,' this teacher's wife said in answer to my inquiry, +'the woman next door went back to her village two miles from here and +she saw her own sister drown a baby while she was there.' + +"I asked an English missionary if she knew that this fearful custom was +still prevalent over most of China with its more than four hundred +million souls. + +"She told me that it was the custom in Ning-daik for the women just to +throw the girl babies under their beds, and they would 'be gone in a day +or two.' + +"And it is all because of their awful fear that the gods will be +displeased if they give birth to a girl baby!" + +The second outstanding flash-light of fear comes from Java. + +In the chapter on Physical Flash-lights I have described the old volcano +of Bromo. It is a terrible thing to look into. Great fissures in the +earth, belch thunder, sulphur, fire, and lava. Great rocks as large as +wagons shoot into the air to the rim of the two hundred-foot crater, and +then drop back with a crash. + +For centuries, and even in these days, clandestinely; I am told by men +whom I trust; the most beautiful maiden of a certain tribe among the +Javanese; and some of the most beautiful women I saw in the Orient were +those soft-skinned, soft-voiced, easy-moving, graceful-limbed, +swaying-bodied; brown skinned women of Java; she, the fairest of the +tribe is taken; and with her the strongest limbed youth; he of the +fibered muscles; he of the iron biceps; he of the clean skin; and the +two of them are tossed into the belching fiery crater of old Bromo. + +"Why?" I asked. + +"They think that in that way, they may propitiate the gods of the +volcano. Their hearts are constantly filled with fear lest the gods of +the volcano become angry and destroy them," said the missionary. + +Then he told me of a trip that they made a year before to the top of one +of the most inaccessible volcanoes which was then in constant eruption. + +"We had a hard time getting native guides. Finally we succeeded. We had +to travel fifty miles before we reached the mountain. Then we climbed +five miles up its steep side, cutting our own trail as we made our way +through the tropical jungle. At last we reached the timber. But before +we entered the forest one of the guides came to me and, with the most +pitiable and trembling fear in his voice and face, begged us white +people not to say anything disrespectful of the mountain; not to joke +and laugh, and not to sing; for that would make the mountain angry, and +we would all be killed. + +"I saw that he was in deadly earnest, and, while I wanted to laugh I +looked as solemn as I could, for there was such terror in his face, I +knew that if I laughed he would turn and run back to civilization. + +"An hour later we reached the timber line. Before we entered it the +first boy fell flat on his face and prayed to the god of the mountain +asking that god not to hurt them. Then the next boy did likewise; then +the third and the fourth and the fifth! + +"Their faces were almost white with fear when we missionaries did not +pray. It filled them with terror!" + + * * * * * + +And the last Flash-light of Fear is that of the baby in Medan. The +Priest lived across the way in a temple. + +The baby was sick with whooping-cough. It was the usual, simple case of +baby sickness that American babies all have, and which is not taken +seriously here by either doctor or mother. + +The mother took the baby to the priest. + +The priest took a red hot iron; laid the baby on the church altar and +ran the iron across its neck, and then across its breast and then across +its little stomach. Then he laid it on the front steps of the temple. + +The baby died after a few hours spent in terrible pain. + +Hate the Priest? + +No! + +Despise the mother? + +No! + +Pity them! + +The priest was honest and the mother was honest. They were doing the +best thing for the baby that either of them knew. They knew that the +baby had a devil in its little body and they were merely trying to drive +that devil out of its body. + +Fear! Fear! Fear! Fear of devils in the home, lurking in the shadows of +night and in the light of day; lurking in the bodies of babies; devils +everywhere--always. + +These are the Flash-lights of Fear! + +And like unto them are the pictures of Frightfulness which I have set +down in the next chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIGHTFULNESS + + +"The Jap is the slant-eyed Hun of the Orient. He has a slant-eyed +ethics, a slant-eyed morality, a slant-eyed honesty, a slant-eyed social +consciousness; a slant-eyed ambition, a slant-eyed military system; and +a slant-eyed mind!" said Peter Clarke Macfarlane, the well-known author +and lecturer, one day when I was interviewing him on the Japanese +question. + +"That's pretty strong, Mr. Macfarlane, in the light of your usual +conservatism," I commented. + +"I say it carefully and after much thought. It is said to stay said so +far, as I am concerned," he added with finality. + +This was also my own opinion, after spending three months in Japan and +Korea, another month in China; and another month or two in Manila; +catching the angle of Japanese leadership from every slant. + +And after due consideration, and after a year to think it over +carefully, I am here to say, that I never saw, or heard of anything +worse happening in Belgium under German rule than that which I saw and +heard of happening under Japanese rule in Korea, Siberia and Formosa, +while I was in the Orient. + +Suffice it is to say, at this point, that the Japanese is hated by the +whole Orient. I do not believe that the German Hun in his worst day was +ever hated more unanimously for his inhuman practices than is the Jap +Hun hated by the whole Orient to-day. + +"Is it getting better or worse?" I am asked constantly. + +"Worse!" I reply, and this reply is backed up by interviews I have had +with returned Korean missionaries. + +I found the Japanese scorned and hated from one end of the Orient to the +other. As far south as Java, as far east as the Suez; as far north as +the uttermost reaches of Manchuria and Siberia; as far this direction as +Hawaii. + +For instance, after I had been away from Korea for six months and had +come back to America I met a most conservative missionary in the Romona +Hotel in San Francisco. The last time previous to that meeting that I +had seen him was in Korea itself. + +I said to him "Are things better or worse in Korea?" + +His reply was, "Worse than they have ever been; generally speaking!" I +have no intention and no desire to further augment ill feeling between +America and Japan. In fact I do not fear anything like war in that +direction; but I do have an intense feeling of responsibility about +telling my readers the plain and simple truth that the whole Far Eastern +world hates Japan. + +If that thought itself can get into the mind of America, this country +will understand, at least, that there is some fault that lies back in +the Japanese military policy and character itself. It hardly seems +possible, with ten races and five different countries hating Japan; that +Japan herself is not mostly to blame. When a matter of hatred is so +unanimous among all races in that part of the world, it is likely that +the fault lies with the race and nation which has the hatred of so many +types of people focused on its actions. + +While I was in Java some high dignitaries in the Japanese Navy arrived +in Batavia. The Chinese Coolies who live in Batavia absolutely refused +to carry any Japanese officers or sailors in their Rickshas. It was a +striking indictment of the Japanese nation. + +In Singapore the distrust and hatred of the Japanese is unanimous. In +the Philippines it is the same. In Hongkong you see few Japanese. They +are not wanted and they are not trusted. In Shanghai, and Peking it is +the same. The Student Movement, one of the most powerful weapons that +has ever arisen in any nation in the world, has focused the Chinese +sentiment against selfish Japanese aggression in China. + +The Japanese officials laughed at the Student Boycott of Japanese goods +when it first started. But in a year they were trembling in the face of +that boycott. I was in Tientsin, and Peking during the days of the +Student Street Demonstrations. They were like American demonstrations. + +Keen, alert, intelligent Chinese boys addressed the crowds admonishing +them not to buy Japanese goods in Chinese shops. The pressure became so +strong that all Chinese merchants from the lowest shopkeeper up to the +owner of the great chain stores, like our Woolworth institutions, put +away Japanese-made goods and refused to sell them. + +I took dinner in Shanghai with one of the foremost merchant princes of +China and said, "Are you selling any Japanese-made goods?" + +"I certainly am not. I am not powerful enough with all my millions of +money and all of my chain of stores to take such a chance as that. I +have put all of my Japanese goods in the cellar." + +The Boycott against Japanese goods in China became so powerful that in +Tientsin, while I was there, the Japanese Consul complained bitterly to +the Governor of the Province and the Governor who was said to be under +the influence of Japanese money, arrested a lot of students. There was +one of the most determined and terrible riots that I have ever seen. It +was war. It was not like any mild American riot. It was war to the +death. Several students were killed and finally the pressure was so +strong that even this Japanese Agent was compelled to release the +imprisoned students. I shall quote from an editorial that I was asked to +write for the Peking _Leader_ during my stay in China: + + The weapon which most worries the Japanese I should say, is the + boycott that the Students Movement has inaugurated. The + Japanese Government never had anything that quite worried it so + much. It is a weapon that is worth a thousand battleships, or + fifty divisions of soldiers. It is a weapon that will, if + continuously, and consistently and faithfully used, bring a + money-loving nation, like Japan to her knees, and send her + finally, scurrying like a whipped cur, with her tail between + her legs back home where she belongs. + +I talked with a ragged Chinese boy through an interpreter just to find +what his reactions to the Japanese were. He was a beggar. He said, "The +Japanese has a heart like a dog and a liver like a wolf." + +I quote again from the editorial in the Peking _Leader_: + + All day I have been on the streets of Peking listening to + groups of students discussing the all absorbing-question of + the Boycott. I have not understood the characters printed on + their banners, but I have understood the light in Young China's + eyes. I can understand that language and that light, for it is + the language and the light of freedom, justice, liberty! I am + an American. I understand that light when I see it; and I know + also; that it is a light that can never be snuffed out. It is a + light that prison walls cannot hide and that the brute hand of + the invader cannot dim. + +"And what are they protesting against?" is the question asked. + +Primarily against the Japanese control of Shantung. Secondarily, +against a type of civilization which Japan represents; a civilization +that uses the weapons of frightfulness to accomplish its ends; a +civilization that steals a nation like Korea, compelling the abdication +of a weak Emperor at the point of the bayonet; and then using the avowed +method of extermination to deplete a subjected nation. The whole Orient +knows Japan and knows the methods that Japan has used and is using in +conquered territory. It is a continuous and continual policy of +extermination, frightfulness, and assimilation. This is the underlying +cause of the hatred of the whole Orient and the Far and Near East +against Japan; and this is the fundamental reason for the Students' +Boycott of Japanese goods in China. + +One might devote an entire book to narrations of frightful cruelties +perpetrated by Japanese on Koreans, Siberians and Formosans; but that +would not be so strong as the setting forth of the underlying ethical +reasons for this universal hatred in which Japan is held. + +However it might be quite honest and fair for this writer to set down +here several acts of frightfulness that came under his own personal +observation merely as casual illustrations of that which is going on all +the time. + +One day I was walking with a missionary's wife through the streets of +Seoul. There was an excavation being made and a little railroad track +was being run along this excavation. A Korean boy had been set to guard +this track to keep folks from getting hurt when the dump car came down +its steep grade. He had been ordered by his Japanese employers to stop +all passage when the signal was given. + +We were walking along when this Korean stopped an ordinary Japanese +civilian. He was of the low-browed type; mentally deficient I should +say; but quite the average type that is used by Japan to settle these +conquered countries. + +The Korean held up his hands in warning. + +The Japanese stooped over, picked up a stone as large as a cabbage head +and, with only a space of two feet between himself and the Korean, +threw it with all his force against the cheek of the Korean and smashed +his jaw in, tearing his ear off, breaking his jaw bone, and lacerating +his face fearfully. It was one of the most inhuman things that I have +ever seen done. + +The missionary woman said to the Korean when the Jap ran; "Why do you +not report this to the Japanese police?" + +"It would do no good. They would give no justice to me, and I would be +hounded to my death for reporting it." + +One evening with a friend I had been speaking in Pyeng Yang. It was +midnight one Sunday and we were waiting for a train down to Seoul. As we +stood on the platform waiting; a north-bound train came in. It stopped. +As it stopped several Japanese train boys got off of the train. An old +white-haired Korean gentleman, about seventy-five years of age, stood on +the platform waiting for the train. He was intelligent looking; poised; +and well-dressed in the usual immaculately white robes. + +A fifteen-year old Japanese train boy, seeing him standing there, +deliberately ran out of his way, lowered his shoulders like a football +charger and ran squarely into the old man, knocking him down to the +platform and ran on with a laugh and some muttered Japanese words. + +The dignified Korean gentleman got up, brushed the dirt from his +clothes; did not even deign to glance at the offending boy; and walked +on as if nothing had happened. + +This scene illustrates two things: First, the superiority of the Korean +mind and character to that of the Japanese. This is one of the causes of +the extreme frightfulness pursued by the Japanese. They instinctively +feel the superiority of their captives. It is not the first time in +history that a lesser nation has conquered a superior people. + +This superiority in soul-stuff that the Korean has over that of the +Japanese is recognized immediately by all Europeans and Americans who +become, even in the least bit, familiar with the two peoples. The +sympathy of Christian civilizations is with the Koreans immediately. + +The other thing that this simple scene illustrates, is the spirit of +ruthless cruelty and frightfulness that is bred in the very soul of the +youth of Japan toward the Koreans. Even the train boys can do a thing +like that without fear of punishment. + +The first day that we were in Seoul, the capital city of Korea, Pat +McConnell and myself were walking down the main street of this +interesting city toward the depot. Parallel with us marched a squad of +Japanese soldiers. In front of them, going the same direction, was a +poor Korean workman pushing a small cart that looked like our American +wheelbarrow. + +The Japanese soldiers were in formation and marching in the middle of a +wide street. But deliberately; evidently with orders from their officer +in charge; they edged over to that side of the street where the Korean +was walking and pushed him into the curb stone, kicking his barrow as +they passed, although this meant a useless swerving of, at least, +fifteen feet out of their course to do so. It was a case of deliberate +brutality. + +"Korea is a land of trails and terraces," said a prominent missionary in +that fair spot to me one day as we were riding from Fusan to Seoul. + +"And terror," added another traveler from America. "It is a land of +trails, terraces, and terror!" + +One day a friend of mine was begging Baron Saito, the present +Governor-General of Korea, to stop the cruelties of the Japanese +gendarmes in villages in northern Korea. The Baron asked for the names +of those who had given the missionary his information about the +cruelties and he refused to give them. + +"Why should you not give them?" asked Baron Saito. + +"Because they would be killed for complaining," said the missionary. + +Then he told Governor-General Saito how he had once complained to the +police department when a father and son were cruelly beaten in prison. + +"Give me their names," said the gendarme. + +"I will if you will give me a promise that they will be protected." + +"No! I cannot do that! The gendarmes are very revengeful!" + +I know personally of a Korean preacher who has done no greater crime +than to attend a meeting at a dinner given for released Korean +prisoners. He was arrested and kept in jail for three days, just for +attending that dinner. + +Another preacher with whom I talked was suspected of collecting money +eight months after the March Independence Movement. When he heard that +the Japanese police were coming for him he fled. This angered the +police. They appeared the next morning at three o'clock at his home. +There were only the mother and a twelve-year-old daughter left. First +the gendarmes burst in the frail doors with the butts of their rifles, +and then from three o'clock in the morning until daylight, they beat and +tortured those two helpless Christian Korean women; kicking them all +over the house until they were unconscious. These two Korean women were +in bed for two weeks because of that night's experience and were not +able to walk for a much longer period than that. + +And these women were educated, cultured women. They had committed no +crime. It was simply because they did not know where the father was. + +Later the father and son were arrested. They were beaten cruelly in the +process of arrest although they offered no resistance. The son later +said to me, "I could stand it to be beaten myself and even to see my +father beaten but the unbearably cruel thing was to know that they had +beaten my innocent mother and sister when no man was there to protect +them." + +I cite this instance because it happened eight months after the +Independence Movement, and three months after the so-called reform +Government of Baron Saito had been in effect and after the Japanese +Press had said to the world that all cruelties had ceased. + +A case of frightfulness that was called to my attention; which seemed to +me to be the very essence of cruelty was that of the moral terrorizing +of an educated Korean Pastor, whom the police merely suspected of having +had something to do with the Independence Movement. They had no direct +evidence but submitted him to months of moral terrorizing which was the +worst I have ever heard of. + +For months at a stretch they would suddenly appear outside of his home +and thrust their bayonets through his doors. Then they would go away +without saying a word. He had absolutely no redress. If he had +complained, he would have been thrown into prison. + +One of the most reliable missionaries that I met in Korea told me of how +one morning the policemen came to a church in northern Korea during the +hour of service. They broke eighty windows, arrested fourteen men, +smashed the little organ with their gun butts, smashed a beautiful lamp, +tore up the mat seats from the floors, and burned them in front of the +church. + +At the funeral service of another young Korean preacher, Pak Suk Han in +Pyeng Yang, hundreds of Japanese soldiers appeared with drawn bayonets +just to terrorize the people. The church was full of Japanese officers +with drawn swords. + +"What would have happened if somebody in a fit of patriotism had shouted +'Mansei'?" I asked. + +"We would have been killed instantly!" said the missionary soberly. "I +was afraid of that!" + +A prominent, educated and English-speaking Korean official, told me that +in a conversation with a high Japanese official that that particular +Japanese had said "Our plan will be to assimilate the Korean people!" + +"But that will be impossible. There are twenty million of us. You will +find that a hard thing to do!" said this Korean. + +The Japanese official smiled and said significantly, "We know the way!" + +The Korean knew what that meant. It meant extermination; extermination +in every way possible. It meant extermination by introducing +prostitution in Korea. This has been done. Korea never had any legalized +prostitution. Korea never knew what the Red Light Section meant. Japan's +first move was to introduce that. She sent her diseased women to Korea. +She made prostitution ridiculously cheap; fifty sen; which is +twenty-five cents in American money. + +"Why?" + +It is one of her ways of assimilation which means extermination and she +has already shot venereal disease rates up to an alarming state in +Korea. + +Her next step in frightfulness was to introduce opium. Japanese Agents +raise thousands of acres of Opium in Korea and sell it. This is another +one of her steps in the process of assimilation or extermination. + +Japan has stolen from poor Koreans their rice lands and their coal beds. +The process is for a Japanese company to buy the water sources of the +rice paddies below and then refuse to let the Koreans have water for his +rice fields. This is another step in frightfulness that will finally +exterminate the Korean if it keeps up long enough. + +The recent massacre of Koreans in Manchuria by Japanese soldiers +illustrate the Japanese spirit. + +This same policy of frightfulness is carried on in Formosa and in +Siberia and wherever the Japanese army and gendarme system has +authority. It is worse than anything that the Germans ever did in France +or Belgium. It has its only parallel in the dark ages. + +I told Baron Saito, Governor-General of Korea this in an interview. He +wanted to know what America thought of Japan's rule in Korea. I said: +"America and the whole civilized world is stirred with indignation at +the Japanese rule in Korea. There has been nothing like it since the +dark ages." Then I read him a quotation from an editorial in _Zion's +Herald_, a church paper published in Boston with virtually those words +in it. + + * * * * * + +My friend, whom I met first in France, when he came back from. France +was sent to Siberia as a Captain in the American Army. + +I met him in Manila just after he had returned from Siberia. He, in +common with all Americans who had seen the Japanese methods of +frightfulness in Siberia, was filled with hatred. + +"One night," he said, "a company of Japanese soldiers entered the +little village six hundred miles north of Vladivostok where we were +located. They announced that they were hunting for Bolsheviks. + +"They did not find any in the little village, although they ruthlessly +broke down every door of every home in that village. Then they went out +to a sawmill about three miles from town and brought in five boys +between the ages of twelve and eighteen. + +"After torturing these boys in an old box car for two days, hanging them +up by the thumbs with their arms behind their backs until they were +unconscious; and then forcing salt water, hot water, cold water, and +water with pepper in it down their nostrils, alternately; and other +added cruelties; they announced to the village that they would release +them that night on the public square." + +"Did they do it?" I asked anxiously, for I was stirred to my soul's +depths with his narration of cruelties in Siberia. + +"Yes, they released them; in this way: + +"They called all the friends and families of the prisoners together on +the public square. Then they dug five graves. Then five Japanese +officers came stalking across the public square, whisking at the +thistle-tops with swords as they came; and then walked up to these +innocent Russian boys, and whacked off their heads. + +"Had they been tried?" I asked indignantly. + +"They had been given no trial. They were mere boys, who, probably, +didn't even know what the word Bolshevik meant. It was the worst +illustration of frightfulness that I ever saw, although it was a common +thing for the Japanese troops to go through the country upsetting the +barrels of honey that the poor peasants were saving up for the long +winters; rooting up their young potatoes; cutting the throats of their +colts and cattle, and ravishing the land." + +"How could you stand it?" + +"We couldn't stand it. I had to fight to keep my company of Americans +from sailing into them with fists and bayonets. It would have meant war. +So I sent word back to headquarters that we were out of provisions and +we were called back to Vladivostok." + +Can this scene be duplicated in Formosa and Korea, where the Japanese +hold sway? + +It can. + +During the Independence Movement in Korea this thing happened: All of +the Korean Christians had been asked to assemble in a church for a +meeting. When they were all in the church, the Japanese gendarme set +fire to the church and then fired into it, killing every man. + +A woman, big with child, came running toward the church having heard the +shooting and knowing that her husband was within. + +A big, burly Japanese pushed her back. + +"What do you want?" he cried in Korean. + +"I want to go in there. My husband is there," she cried in terror. + +"But you will be killed if you go in there!" + +"I don't care! I want to die if he is to die!" + +"All right! You shall have your wish!" said the Japanese, and pulling +out his sword, cut off her head, killing her instantly. She fell at his +feet with her unborn child; and he laughed aloud at the spectacle. + +This is Japanese frightfulness and it can be duplicated by many +missionaries in Korea if they dared to speak. + +But the minute they speak and tell the truth that minute they are sent +home from their life work. They realize that this leaves the Koreans to +the utter and awful cruelties of the barbarous Japanese, and because of +this, in spite of their indignation they hold their tongues for the +larger good. But they eagerly give the facts to those of us who are +coming back to America so that America in turn may know what is going on +in Korea. That is the only hope; that the indignation of a righteous +world, without war, may bring pressure to bear on Japan to stop these +terrible cruelties and tortures; this unutterable frightfulness. This +is the hope of the missionaries; this is the only hope of the Koreans! + + * * * * * + +I don't know whether or not it was because I had been listening for so +long to the most brutal stories of Japanese treatment of Korean men, +women and children; with murder, rapine, burning of homes, especially +Christian homes; beating of a mother and her twelve-year-old girl from +three in the morning until eight to make them reveal the hiding-place of +their preacher daddy, that the crimson, blood-red sunset I witnessed on +my last night in Korea seemed to me like a "sunset of crimson wounds." +All I know is that it happened in Korea while I was there, and that my +soul had been, for a solid month, stirred to the depths of its righteous +wrath over the things that I had heard first-hand from human lips. + +But there it was. The sky was blood-red. At first it was black, a somber +black. Not a coal-black but a slate black. Then suddenly just at the +edge of the horizon a crack began to appear. It was a slit of blood. It +looked more like a wound than anything else I ever saw. The slit of +blood grew larger and larger in the slate-black clouds. + +Then suddenly all over the horizon these wounds began to break through +the mass of black clouds. Some of these slits were horizontal slits, +and some of them ran in graceful curves. Some of them looked as if a +bayonet had been lunged into the body of that somber cloud and a great +crimson gash was made with ragged edges as big as a house. Then it +looked as if some ruthless Japanese gendarme had taken his sword and +slashed a rip in the abdomen of that sky; and from side to side like a +crescent moon appeared this great crimson wound. + +I had never seen a sunset just like it. But there it was. It seemed that +there was back of that great black cloud a blood-red planet, pouring its +crimson tides like a great waterfall down back of that slate-black mass +until finally the curtain of black began to tear, and the blood poured +through to run along the horizon, and splash against the clouds, and +slit its way like wounds through the clouds of night. + +And I thought of something else. I thought how a Man once was crucified. +I thought how dark the skies were on that afternoon. I thought how +slate-colored and somber all life seemed, especially to that little +group of disciples. I thought of the wounds in His hands and feet and +side. I thought of the wounds the thorns in His crown made, and of the +blood that ran over His face. I could see Him there back of that cloud +in Korea. I could see His Christian people being crucified again +because of their religion. I could see Japanese bayonets thrust into His +side and Japanese nails through His feet and His hands. I could see a +Japanese crown of thorns on His head because He said, "Inasmuch as ye +have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren ye have done it +unto me." And I could see the blood of his wounds breaking through that +nation's clouds on that wonder evening of the "sunset of wounds" back of +the Korean mountains in December. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +FEMININE FLASH-LIGHTS + + +"Oriental women are fascinating to Occidental men," said a newspaper +reporter in a Shanghai hotel lobby, a year ago. + +"All women are fascinating to Occidental men. Take the French girls and +the way they captured our American soldiers; of course, these +brown-eyed, brown-skinned, graceful, mysterious----" + +"It's just as I said," replied the first speaker interrupting the second +speaker, "Oriental girls are more fascinating to Occidental men than +white girls." + +"Yes--I guess you are right, when we get down to the honest to goodness +truth of the thing," said an American oil man. "Take that Javanese girl +who knocked at the door of my room; or take that half-breed Malay girl +we met on the ship between Singapore and Batavia; or that little +red-cheeked Japanese girl in Tokyo; or that Spanish brunette in Manila; +or--Oh, Boy! Do you remember that Chinese half-breed, with English blood +in her veins and an English education in her brain and Paris clothes on +her back, and American pep in her eyes, and Japanese silk stockings on +her----" + +"Come on! Come on! We didn't call on you for a lecture on Oriental girls +whom you have met," said the first speaker. + +Then a bell boy paged me and I lost the rest of the conversation. + +But this dialogue set me to thinking on the various types of fascinating +Oriental women; the standing they have in the world; and the status of +their living. + +There were the Japanese women; beautiful, graceful, red-cheeked, small +of stature, wistful-eyed, colorfully dressed; always smiling slaves to +their men. + +The well-trained Geisha girl has, for centuries, because of her superior +education, received the confidences of Japanese men; while a Japanese +man would scorn to talk things over with his wife. + +There was the banquet we attended at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Mr. +Uchida, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, and many of the high officials +of Japan were present with their wives. Several members of the House of +Parliament were present as well as the Secretary to Mr. Hara, the Prime +Minister. Each of these great leaders of Japan had his wife by his side +at the banquet table. + +It was a small group. + +One of the speakers of the evening said: "Perhaps you Americans do not +realize that this banquet is an unusual occasion in Japan. I think that +it is the first time that I have ever attended a banquet in all my life, +when so many Japanese gentlemen had their own wives with them at that +banquet. It is a very unusual thing to do, but I hope that, in time, it +will become more common in Japan, as it is in America." + +This speech was met with amused laughter on the part of the Japanese +gentlemen present; but laughter that was kindly; and it was met with +applause on the part of the Americans present. + +It was typical of the attitude of even the educated Japanese man toward +the matter of appearing in public with his wife at his side. + +Up in Sapporo, on the island of Hokkaido, we were entertained by a +beautiful Japanese woman. We had been away from America for several +months and were tired of eating Japanese food, so when we were invited +to this Japanese home for a dinner we groaned. + +But much to our delight, when we sat down we had as fine an American +dinner as any of us had ever eaten. + +I turned to our hostess, a most beautiful Japanese woman; the wife of +the Dean of the College at Sapporo; and said: "Do you have servants who +know how to cook American food?" + +"No, I cooked it all myself!" she said much to my surprise with a bow +and a smile. + +And there she sat, cool and poised after having cooked food enough for +fifteen people that morning; and arranging for it to be served in the +finest style; with place cards, salted almonds, Turkey, pudding, +vegetables and everything that makes an American dinner good; including +a fine salad. There she sat; as cool, calm and collected as if servants +had done all of the work that morning instead of she herself. + +And never in all of my life have I seen a more gracious hostess. She +watched the wants of every guest. She noted which guests liked a special +food, and saw to it that they had plenty of that particular food; and, +in addition to this she kept a fascinating line of conversation going +constantly during the meal. + +"Do you live in American fashion or Japanese fashion?" I asked her, +knowing that she had been educated in America. + +"Both!" was her reply. "We have Japanese rooms for our Japanese guests +and American rooms for our European and American guests." + +"But how do you live yourselves; how are you training your children?" I +asked her. + +"We are training our daughters to live in American style; on a common +ground with the men. That is the better way. That is the fairer way! +That is the way out of our feminine darkness!" + +She said it quietly, with poise, and with a fine assurance which was +thrilling. It sounded like a call to battle, like a trumpet note in the +new freedom for women. + +A missionary friend told me at the conclusion of that meal that this +beautiful young Japanese hostess whispered to her Mother-in-law during +the dinner a phrase that sounded strangely like American slang, when she +noted that her mother-in-law was not carrying on much of a conversation +with the man beside her, "Start something! He can speak Japanese as well +as English!" + +At that, dear Mrs. Mother-in-law started an animated conversation in +Japanese with her silent guest on her left. This was illustrative of the +care with which our hostess was watching that we be kept happy at her +table. It was a Feminine Flash-light that I do not care to forget; an +illustration of the possible efficiency, poise, grace, beauty and +sweetness of the Japanese woman of the future when she shall have won +her rights of freedom from the slavery of an inferior position to man in +the social scale. + +To an American, the position of woman in regard to prostitution in Japan +is a terrible thing, but when we consider the light in which the +Ethical thought of Japan sees it, we do not blame the women any more +than Jesus blamed the woman taken in adultery in his day. + +The system of prostitution is run by the Government and the largest +income that the Government has, comes from the sale of Sake, the +national drink, and its houses of prostitution. + +A woman who becomes a Prostitute is looked upon as a heroine. This is +for the simple reason that she is given a matter of several hundred yen, +it depending upon her form, beauty and qualifications for her position; +and that money goes to her poor parents. When she leaves her little +village to give a certain number of the years of her life to the +Yoshiwara in order to free her parents from debt she is lauded and feted +by the people of her village and sent off as one who goes on a crusade +of service. + +Prostitution is so much a part of the acknowledged life of Japan that +Temples for prostitutes exist where they may go and pray. In one Temple +we saw large numbers of photographs put up by certain girls of the +Yoshiwara to advertise their wares. + +Consequently there is no fine tradition of ethical values established in +Japan and the poor girl herself is not to blame. Nor is she blamed; for +it is not at all an uncommon thing for a Japanese girl to marry out of +a house of prostitution into a fine family. + +One of the terrible Feminine Flash-lights that every careful traveler +discovers in the Orient is the presence of Japanese girls in the +segregated sections of Shanghai, Seoul, Peking, Nanking; and even so far +away as Singapore. I understand however that a recent order from the +Emperor has called all these girls back to Japan, which is an upward +step not only for Japan as a nation; but for the womankind of Japan. + + * * * * * + +It was in a Japanese Hotel in northern China that Pat McConnell and I +had our experience with the strange ways and customs of Japan. Pat was +taking the pictures and I was writing the stories. + +We thought it would be an unusual experience to stay all night at a +regular Japanese Inn. We stayed. + +That night, much to the amusement, of the missionaries who stayed with +us, three beautiful Japanese girls came gracefully into the cold room +where we had started to take our clothes off. + +They bowed several times as they came with cups of hot tea. + +They seemed to pay particular attention to me. + +All three of them bowed to me first and then each proceeded to select an +individual man to whom they served tea. + +I took it for granted that they had paid this particular attention to me +because of some special characteristic of masculine beauty or +intellectual appearance; or atmosphere of greatness that must have +hovered about me in some unknown fashion. + +I made the mistake of swelling up with pride and bragging about this +attention that I had received. + +"Ah, that's because of your bald head. They think that you are the old +man of the party. They have great respect for old age!" the missionary +said with a roar of laughter. + +The truth of the matter was that I was the youngest of the party, but +those girls had selected me as the venerable member of the group of +Americans. + +But the climax came when these young ladies decided to stay with us "To +the bitter end" as Pat called it. + +After filling us with tea they still remained; bowing and smiling; even +though they could not understand a word we were saying nor we a word +that they were saying. + +"It's one o'clock now! I'd like to get to bed," said Pat. + +"How long will they stay with us?" I asked. + +The missionaries only grinned in reply. + +"By George, I'm going to take my shirt off and see if they won't go!" +said Pat. + +He took it off. The young girl who was serving him took his shirt and +after neatly folding it, laid it carefully away. + +"So that's what they're waiting for; to undress us?" queried Pat and the +missionaries laughed again, waiting to see what would happen. + +"They can go as far as they like. If they can stand it, I can!" said +Pat. + +Then he took off his shoes. + +A young lady took the shoes, carefully brushed them off, and put them +away. Then he took off socks, followed by his trousers. + +It looked as they would stay until Pat got into his Pajamas. He was in a +corner. + +"It seems as if this young lady wants to put me to bed right!" said Pat, +with a grin. + +"That's exactly what she is here for. It's a hotel custom in Japanese +hotels and we get so that we don't think anything of it. They bathe in +the same pool; men and women alike; and think nothing of it. After all, +modesty is not entirely a matter of clothes, as the Japanese prove." + +"Anyhow, that's what I call service!" said Pat with a grin. + + * * * * * + +It was a cold winter night in Seoul, Korea. I had been invited to dinner +at a Korean home; the home of a former Governor under the Korean +regime; and now, a respected official under the Japanese rule. + +I had looked forward to this dinner with unusual interest. + +We took Rickshas to get there and nearly froze on the way. + +We took both our shoes and our coats off on the back porch and left them +to the tender mercies of the zero weather which prevailed on that night. + +We were ushered into this beautiful home. + +A room was full of men; stately sons of the family; the gray-bearded, +dignified father; but no women, not a single woman. I wondered about +this, for I knew that this household was noted for its beautiful +daughters and a wonderful mother. The missionaries had told me that. + +I wondered why no women came to welcome me. + +Finally we sat down to one of those interminable Oriental dinners, with +thirty or forty courses; squatted on our haunches, on the cold floor; +half-frozen, cramped and uncomfortable. + +Then in came a beautiful girl. She was beautiful in every sense of the +word; physically and spiritually. There was a touch of refinement about +her which made me know that she had received an English education. + +But she was not there for any part of the dinner. Not at all. She was +there merely to serve. + +I found that she could speak English and every time she came to serve +me, I took the opportunity of talking with her; taking a chance on +whether it was diplomatic for me to do so or not. I was after +information. + +"You speak good English?" I said. "Why do you not sit down and eat with +us?" + +She laughed aloud. + +"My father would drop over dead if I did. It is not the custom in Korea +for the women of the family to dine with the men on an occasion like +this. We eat alone in the kitchen." + +"Have you a mother?" + +"Yes, but she is in the kitchen." + +"Will I not get to meet her before I go?" + +"Perhaps? Perhaps not. If you meet her at all it will be just at the +close, of the evening, providing my father thinks to call her. It is not +important; so our Korean men think." + +"But you; you know better? You have been in an American School?" I said, +as she came in for the fifteenth course and paused a moment to talk with +me. + +"Yes, I know better! I know the American way of treating women is the +Christian way," she said sadly. + +"And what do you think of that way? Do you not like that way better +than the Korean way?" I asked. + +"The American way is much better." Then she paused and much to my +delight used a typical American girl's phrase, with an appealing touch +of pathos in her voice and a blush of crimson in her brown cheeks, "Why, +I just love the American way!" she said and then fled, blushing with +shame, as if she had said something immodest. + +I did not see her again that evening. Nor did I see any of the other +women of that household. Nor did I see the mother of the home at all. + + * * * * * + +It was in a Shanghai hospital. I was sitting beside an American +newspaper friend who was at the head of the Chinese Information Bureau. +He was a world-vagabond. Beside his bed sat a beautiful Chinese girl, +who had been educated in England and whose mother was a Scotch woman. +Her father was a full-blooded Chinese. + +"I love her but she won't marry me!" said my friend suddenly looking up +toward the Chinese girl. + +[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING. + +Long before a single cathedral had been built in Europe this beautiful +structure was erected.] + +[Illustration: A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEEN STORY PAGODA NEAR PEKING.] + +[Illustration: MILLIONS OF WAYSIDE TEMPLES AND SHRINES ADORN THE FIELDS +AND HIGHWAYS EVERYWHERE IN JAPAN, KOREA, AND CHINA. THIS IS ONE OF THEM. +A SHRINE AND A TEMPLE.] + +[Illustration: A SUNRISE SILHOUETTE PHOTOGRAPH OF SOME OF THE HUNDREDS +OF BELLS OF BUDDHA ON BOROBOEDOER, JAVA.] + +She was a beautiful girl and could play a piano as few American women I +have met. She would have graced any social room in America with her dark +beauty, her brown eyes, and her Oriental fire. She was rich. Her father +was worth several millions; being one of many shrewd Chinese business +men. She was dressed like a Parisian model, in the latest European +styles. She was in China for the first time in her life. Her father had +brought her back to marry a Chinese boy. She did not love him. She did +love my American friend. + +"Why will you not marry James?" I asked her. + +"My father would kill me," she said quietly. + +"Does he say so?" + +"He does. He went to America a week ago; and the last thing he said was, +'If you marry anything but a Chinese I will kill you!'" + +"Did he really mean it?" I asked her, astonished. + +"He meant it more than anything he ever meant in his life. It would be +considered a disgrace to my entire family if I married anybody but a +Chinese boy." + +"Even though your father married a Scotch woman?" I said. + +"For that very reason it is imperative that I marry my own blood," she +said. + +"That is terrible!" I replied catching my first glimpse of the strange +and terrible social position in which a girl of mixed blood is placed in +China. + +"You see," she said in a quiet, refined voice, with a marked English +accent, "I have an English education but I have Chinese blood. I can +never be happy marrying a Chinese after I have been educated in +England. I can never be happy with Chinese clothes, Chinese customs, and +Chinese people. And yet if I marry the man I love, it will break my +father's heart. He would kill me to be sure; for if he says he will, +that means that he will keep his word. But that would not be the worst +of it. To die would be easy." + +"What would be the worst of it?" I asked, my heart stirred with a +strangely deep sympathy at this beautiful Chinese girl's dilemma. + +"The worst thing would be that it would break my father's heart!" + +Then she wept. + +That was my first glimpse of the life of tragedy through which a +half-breed woman of the Orient has to go. + +I met them in the Philippines, with Spanish and American blood running +in their veins; I met Malay girls whose fathers had been German or +English; I met Dyak girls whose fathers had been Dutch; and Javanese +girls whose fathers had been either American, English or Dutch. + +I stayed with such a woman in a home in Borneo. She had been a Dyak +girl. Yet she did not look it. She had a beautiful home with beautiful +English speaking children. I met her in the interior of Borneo a hundred +miles from a single white woman. And yet in this far interior; living +with her English husband who was the head of a mining project; she was +keeping intact the English education of her children. There was a piano +and the children played beautifully while the mother, in a rich +contralto voice sang. + +She was graceful, accomplished, beautiful, poised and sweet. + +One night as we walked alone under the moonlight the Englishman opened +his heart to me and said, "You are going to visit the Head-Hunting Dyaks +to-morrow. You will see their abject squalor and filth. You will be +surprised when I tell you that my wife was a Dyak girl and that I took +her out of a Kampong fifteen years ago and took her to England." + +"That's a lie!" I exclaimed. + +"It is the truth!" he added. + +Somehow his statement angered me. I don't know why. Perhaps it was the +unusual heat of the tropics. We were directly on the Equator. I would +have fought him for that statement. + +But it was true. + +"And the hell of it was that when I took her to England she was not +happy and my people would not receive her. So we have had to come back +to Borneo and live our lives in this fashion, far from civilization." + +He was silent for a few minutes. + +"That is the fate of mixing bloods in these tropical lands," he said +with a shudder. "And the woman always suffers more than the man!" + +I met another Malay-English girl on the ship going from Singapore to +Batavia, Java. + +She too was an educated, English-speaking girl of a strange beauty and +fascination. She started to talk with me as I sat alone on the Dutch +ship. We were the only English-speaking people on board and we felt a +certain comradeship. We sat an entire evening talking about the problem +of a girl of mixed blood in the Malay States. + +"White men always assume that we are bad girls. They come into the +offices where we work as stenographers and insult us. It is that taint +of mixed blood. We have the longings and the ideals of the best blood +that is in our veins; but the skin and the color and the passions of the +worst. We try to be good; some of us; but everything is against us. We +can never marry white men; though we frequently fall in love with them +for we work side by side with them in the offices. But when it comes to +marrying us they fear the social ban. It is a terrible thing. There is +no way out! It is a thing that has been imposed upon us from the +generations that have gone. We pay!" + +I shall never forget her brown eyes, her brown skin, her heaving breast, +as the great Dutch ship cut the waves of the South China Sea bound for +Java. + +"Why are you leaving a good position and going to Java?" I asked her. + +"They say things are better for us girls in Java; that the Dutch are not +so particular. I shall no doubt be homesick for Singapore but I am going +to try Java for a while. My sister is there!" + + * * * * * + +A Feminine-Flash light that has its humorous side was one that I +experienced in Borneo. + +We had gone out to a Dyak village to take pictures. + +It was a miserably hot morning. That night I stayed in Pontianak which +is bisected by the Equator. It was so cold in the middle of the night +that I had to get up and put on a night shirt! + +The next day we tramped ten miles through the Jungle to a Head-hunting +Dyak village. + +I had been taking pictures for an hour in this Kampong when six of the +most beautiful Dyak girls came in, with great Bamboo water tubes flung +over their gracefully strong shoulders. Their skin looked like that of a +red banana from toe to chin. They were stark naked save for a girdle +about their loins. They had been five miles away for water. + +Their skin was flushed with exercise. There they stood, mystified at +seeing white men in the village Kampong. + +In fact they were terrified. + +Their big brown eyes bulged out. + +Their breasts heaved with fear. + +I said to the missionary, "Dyak Madonnas! What a painting they would +make?" + +"Yes, there are no more beautiful women anywhere. They look like bronze +statues. A Rodin, or a St. Gaudens would go wild over their limbs and +bodies." + +I asked the missionary to tell them that I wanted to take a picture of +them just as they were, standing with their water vessels poised on +their shoulders; in their naked splendor and beauty. + +He told them. + +They squealed for all the world like American girls and ran for dear +life, disappearing in the flash of an eye. + +He tried to coax them to come out to get a picture taken. The Missionary +could speak their language but they would only peek through the doors +with grinning faces. + +Finally they agreed that we could take their pictures if I would let +them put dresses on. + +I didn't want to do this; for I wanted them just as they were; but saw +that they were adamant in their souls even if their brown bodies did +look as soft as ripening mangos; and as beautiful and brown. + +I pictured all sorts of ugly dresses; discarded by the white folks and +given to them. But much to my surprise, when they appeared all dressed +up for the picture, every last one of them had on a white woman's +discarded night gown. + +I wanted to laugh. It destroyed their picturesqueness but those gowns +could not destroy their symmetrical beauty of limb and body. + +"That's a quick way to dress up!" I said to my missionary friend. + +We smiled but I got the picture. + +And back of these Flash-lights Feminine; is the black page of the +history of womankind in all the Far East; with footbinding still rampant +over nine-tenths of China; baby-killing, baby-selling, and baby-slavery +which I saw with my own eyes time and time again; with slavery of +womankind, from Japan down to Ceylon the regular thing. But there is +still hope in the woman-heart of the Far East; and the hope is the +American woman and her religion. That and that alone will break down +prejudices, break off shackles, and tear to bits the traditions of the +past. + + * * * * * + +"The women suffer! Yes, the women always suffer!" said a big fellow to +me up in the northern part of Luzon in the Philippines one evening. + +"What do you mean?" I asked him, scenting a story. + +Then the man told me of a cholera epidemic that he had passed through; +of how he had tried to care for the sick, even though he was not a +physician; told me of their poor superstitious methods of driving away +the "evil spirits." + +He told of how he had gone into homes where he found seven inmates dead +and four dying; of how he tried to care for them with nothing medicinal +at hand. + +Then he told me of how the poor people went down to a dirty inland river +and had killed a hog, taken its heart; killed a dog, taken its heart; +and then after putting them on a little raft, floated them off down the +river to drive the cholera away. Then he told me of how the natives had, +in their desperation, tied tight bands about their ankles to keep the +evil spirits from coming up out of the earth into their bodies. + +"But what do you yourself do about a doctor. You say that you are 400 +miles from a doctor, even here. What about your children, when they take +sick?" I asked him, and then was sorry that I had asked the question +because of a terribly hurt and unutterably sorrowful look in his eyes. + +"Mother and I don't like to talk about that or to think about it!" he +said simply, and I knew that I had torn open an old wound which was just +over his heart. + +His voice broke as he spoke, and he looked at the woman who was his +brave helpmate and said again: "Mother and I don't like to think about +that!" The tears ran down over his cheeks and "Mother's" too, and mine +also. + +"I am sorry! I am sorry if I have opened an old wound!" I said, quite +helpless to remedy the damage I had done. I felt as one who had +unwittingly trodden on a flower bed and crushed some violets. They +bleed, even though you see no blood. I saw that their hearts were +bleeding. But he spoke. + +"We were 400 miles from a doctor. Baby took sick. If we could have had a +doctor she would have been saved." + +"Now Daddy, we do not know for certain about that," said the +ever-conservative woman in her. + +"There was not a Filipino doctor. She died in mother's arms!" + +It was oppressively silent in that far-off mission home for a few +minutes. I thought some one would sob aloud. It might have been any one +of us, the way we all felt. I took hold of my cane chair with a grip +that numbed my hands for a half hour afterwards. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FUN + + +All the "Peck's Bad Boys" of the world are not confined to American +soil. + +I found them all over the Far East; especially in China. + +I was annexed by one of them who became a sort of a guide de luxe when +we were going through the ruined Palaces of the romantic regions of +Peking. + +He annexed himself to us in somewhat the same fashion as a thistle or a +burr annexes itself to you as you walk through the field where thistles +are thick. + +He was an acquired asset of questionable value. With him were a lot of +followers but it was plain to be seen that he was the leader of the +gang; which was, for all the world, like a typical street gang in an +American city. + +Who could pass up that group of a dozen little rascals who followed us +through the ruins of the old Summer Palace? Who could resist their +imitations of everything one did? I sneezed and the little rascals +sneezed also. I counted one, two, three, four, as I adjusted my Graflex +for a picture and I heard a chorus of laughing "One, two, three, fours." +I yelled ahead to an American member of the party and said "Wait!" and a +dozen boys yelled "Wait!" + +We fell in love with the dirty-faced rascals. They looked to be a +nuisance when we started and I wanted them driven back, but before we +were through they had become the most interesting part of the whole +trip. Sure enough we emptied our purses of pennies and some white money. +The little fellow who was in his bare feet and who said, with a real +touch of seven year old Chinese humor, "These are leather shoes that I +have on and they will last all my life," won our hearts. That was humor +with a vengeance. + +This lad was happy. No wonder then that when one of the party passed him +an extra penny early in the morning he winked knowingly as one who had +been taken into the inner councils of affection. + +And no wonder that he followed the man who gave him that penny to the +end of the morning, and no wonder when we told him through the +interpreter that we liked the boys because they were good boys; he said +in return, "Some boys would have followed you around, pulling your coats +and being rude and yelling at you." + +The nonchalant way in which they admitted that they were good boys won +our hearts and we came back penniless. + +Then who can forget the little rascals who smiled and winked back in the +midst of the dignified Lama ceremonies over at the Lama Temple, proving +that they were, after all, real human boys with a laugh and the spirit +of fun in their little souls in spite of their having to take part in +this dignified chanting service. + +It was fun when the service was over to see them tumble out of the +Temple so fast that one boy fell and about six fell on top of him just +as American boys do pouring out of school. I even saw one lad whack +another one on the back of his little bald head and a scuffle ensued. +They laughed, fought, tumbled pell-mell, got up again grinning, winked +and laughed back at the good natured Americans for all the world like +American boys. + +The Chinese have a distinct sense of humor and it is very much like that +which is found in our own America. Indeed the Chinese are like us in +many respects. + +The Filipino enjoys a good joke but his humor is more cruel than is +American humor. + +The Dyak of Borneo has a sense of play and fun that would not exactly +appeal to an American mind; although there are those who claim that +American football is a near kin to the delightful game of Head-hunting +indulged in by the Dyaks of Borneo. + +The Dyaks have for centuries been known as the head-hunters of the Far +East. They, in common with the Igorotes of the Philippines, have had the +playful custom of going out when the mood took them and bringing in a +few heads just as our Indians used to get scalps. When a Dyak youth +wanted to marry a nice young Dyak girl to whom he had taken a fancy (and +I can assure the reader that some of them are as beautiful as Rodin's +bronze statues), he didn't even dare mention his desire for that young +bronze beauty until he had brought in five or six heads. After that he +had some standing in the lady's sight. Without the heads he had no more +chance of winning either the girl herself or her pa or ma or any of the +Dyak family than the proverbial snowball has of getting through Borneo +without melting. It just simply couldn't be done according to Dyak +etiquette. + +Head-hunting was a game between tribes also. When two tribes of Dyaks +felt a playful mood coming on, they would challenge each other to a +head-hunting game. The game would last for a week or so and the tribe +that took the most heads won. It was nothing like "Tag you're it." If +so, some of the skulls that I have seen at Dyak Compounds would not be +grinning so hideously these days as they ornament the poles of certain +vain and proud Dyak hunters. + +The Battaks of Sumatra also have a playful custom of getting rid of +their old men. When a man gets so old that they think it is about time +for him to tell his last tale, they put him up a Cocoanut tree. Then all +of the young bucks of the village get together and try to shake him +down. If he is too feeble to hold on, and comes down, that is a sign of +heaven that his days are through and they cook him and eat him. + + * * * * * + +The Japanese claim to have a great sense of humor. Japanese students +speaking in America, insist that this is true. But travelers in Japan do +not find it so. Indeed if Japan had a sense of humor, it would keep her +out of many an international tangle. She does not know how to laugh. Her +sense of dignity is so exaggerated that she does not know the fine art +of smiling and laughing at herself. + +"What does Japan most need to learn?" a student asked me. + +"To laugh," I replied. + +"I think that you are right! Your Lincoln knew how to laugh!" was his +response as he went off thoughtfully. + +I was advertised to speak in a northern college in Japan. The Dean of +the school wanted to advertise me so that the students would all come +out to hear me. This is the way he did it: + + "Dr. Stidger is a college student who played with the foot-ball + in America. He is a man with the bigness of the head! He + reaches the six feet tall; the four feet around; has an arm + like an ox and a head like a board!" + +I was not certain as to just what he meant by many of those references, +but I was assured that they were intended to be highly complimentary to +me. I am not yet sure of that but I had a good laugh just the same. + +The story is told of a ruthless American humorist Hotel-keeper in +Singapore who was entertaining a group of Japanese Officers from the +Japanese Navy. This American had no love for Japan. He also knew of +their lack of humor; so when the Japanese Captain arrived at the hotel +the American Manager made quite an extended speech of welcome, as his +American friends listened, greatly amused. + +He said in part: "The hotel is yours! During your stay the entire force +of servants is at your disposal. If there is anything that you want that +you do not see, please ask for it." + +[Illustration: OLD BROMO VOLCANO, JAVA. + +"The way it effervesces Bromo is a fitting name," said the author when +he saw it in action.] + +[Illustration: A SIDE VIEW OF BEAUTIFUL BOROBOEDOER IN JAVA. + +Said by travelers to make the Pyramids look like child's play as a +tremendous piece of construction; and as a work of art to have no rival +in the whole world.] + +[Illustration: NAKED AND OTHERWISE. + +This curious conglomeration of Mongrel children watching the +photographer in Borneo where Dyaks, Chinese, Malay and others mix +indiscriminately.] + +[Illustration: A DOG MARKET AMONG THE IGGOROTEES OF THE PHILIPPINES.] + +The Japanese Captain bowed continuously and smiled; sucking in his +breath with a characteristic national custom; the same sound they made +as they eat fried eggs in a Japanese dining car; a sound similar to the +old-fashioned but now obsolete method of drinking coffee from a saucer. + +"There is just one request however that we will have to make of you, +while you are here with us in the hotel," continued the American hotel +manager. + +"And what is that may I ask?" inquired the Japanese Captain, still +bowing and sucking in air through his teeth. + +"That you do not climb around in the trees!" + +The Japanese officers did not see the joke and did not even smile but +the Americans in the Far East have laughed over it for years. + +Which reminds one of the night on the Sambas River when a hundred little +monkeys were silhouetted against a crimson sunset. + +Red, brown, yellow, golden, blue orchids flashed in the sunlight; and +flowers of every hue under God's blue skies made brilliant the river +banks. At times the ship went so close that I could reach out and grab a +limb of a tree, much to the indignation of the monkeys who chattered at +me as if I had stolen something. Now and then a big lazy alligator slid +into the water from the muddy banks as the wave-wash from our propeller +frightened him. + +Coming back down the Sambas River, along its winding, beautiful way we +sat one evening and watched a crimson sunset from the deck of the ship. +At one point in the river there was a row of dead, bare trees. There +were no leaves on the branches--only monkeys: big red monkeys, which +they call "Beroks," and little gray fellows, which they call "Wahwahs." +These monkeys were strikingly silhouetted against the crimson sunset in +strange tropical fashion. From the tips of those dead trees down to the +lowest branches dozens of monkeys stood like sentinels, or romped like +children, or chattered like magpies. Their long curling tails +silhouetted below the branches against the light of evening. + + * * * * * + +Most Americans who go in and out of Japan get disgusted with the +regulations that policemen impose upon them. + +This is especially true of those Americans living in China who are +compelled, for business reasons, to go in and out of Japan, for at every +trip they are required to answer the same list of questions. I traveled +from Korea into Japan with the Military Attache of the Spanish Legation. +When we landed a Japanese officer who had known him for many years +insisted upon his answering the usual questions. + +"I've been in this country for ten years and yet I never go out or in +that they do not compel me to go through the same foolish police +regulations which they have copied from Germany and haven't sense +enough to give up!" he said indignantly. + +I also traveled with a party in which there was a Methodist Bishop's +wife. This Bishop's wife absolutely refused to give the Japanese +policeman her age. Not that she had any reason to be ashamed of her age. +In fact she could easily have passed for twenty years younger than she +probably was, but she just had the average American woman's spunk and +refused to give it. + +For a few minutes it looked as if diplomatic relations between Japan and +America might be seriously cracked, if not broken; for the Japanese +officer had no sense of humor. That is one of the chief defects of the +Japanese police and military system. It has no sense of humor. It takes +itself too seriously. It does not know how to laugh. + +To the eight or ten Americans in the party the whole matter was a huge +joke and we admired the spunk of the Bishop's wife, but the poor +Japanese police officer was facing what he thought was an international +problem. + +Need it be said that the whole matter was finally settled to the entire +satisfaction; not of the Japanese officer, but to the entire +satisfaction of the Bishop's wife. + + * * * * * + +A friend of mine who happens to be in business in the Orient got so +tried of being interviewed, trailed, and made to answer innumerable +questions about his mother, grandmother, etc., that one day on landing +in Yokohama, in a spirit of fun, he answered the officer's questions in +this manner: + +"How old are you?" + +"Thirty-six." + +"Have you a family?" + +"Yes." + +"How many children?" + +"Three." + +"How old are they?" + +"One is thirty-eight, one forty, and one forty-five." + +"What is your occupation?" + +"Commander-in-Chief of the Greenland Navy." + +"What are you doing in Japan?" + +"Getting a cargo of ice to take back to Greenland." + +After satisfying his appetite for information, the Japanese police +officer departed to make his reports, while the young American went to +his hotel with a grin all over his face. + +While he was eating his dinner that evening suddenly the Japanese +officer appeared in the dining room with a big smile on his face and +walked over to where the American sat with a group of friends. + +As he approached the American's table he said with a grin, "You +American! I know! You American!" + +"How did you guess it, my friend?" + +"You make me one tam fool!" he said holding out the report. + + * * * * * + +Some of the most laughable things that one sees in the Orient are the +Japanese signs translated into English by some Japanese merchant who has +picked up a dash of English here and there. + +One such sign which caused a lot of amusement was that of a tailor who +was trying to cater to American Tourist trade. He had, evidently, also +had some contact with the spiritual phraseology of the missionaries. He +had painted on a big sign: + + "BUY OUR PANCE! + THEY FIT YOU BETTER AND + THEY WARM YOUR LEGS LIKE THE + LOVE OF GOD!" + +Perhaps the most exhilaratingly humorous thing that the Japanese have +perpetrated on the Koreans was a list of advices printed and posted all +over Korea by the Police Department as to the regulation of Fords: + + RULES! + + 1. At the rise of hand of policeman, stop rapidly. Do not pass + him by or otherwise disrespect him. + + 2. When a passenger of the foot hove in sight, tootle the horn + trumpet to him melodiously at first. If he still obstacles your + passage, tootle him with vigor and express by word of the mouth + the warning, "hi, hi." + + 3. Beware of the wandering horse that he shall not take fright + as you pass him. Do not explode the exhaust box at him. Go + soothingly by, or stop by the roadside till he gently pass + away. + + 4. Give big space to the festive dog that make sport in the + roadway. Avoid entanglement of dog with your wheel spokes. + + 5. Go soothingly on the grease-mud, as there lurk the + skid-demon. Press the brake of the foot as you roll around the + corners to save the collapse and tie-up. + + 6. Number of people you put in the Ford: You put two in the + front house and three in the back house. + +There were other rules but this list will be sufficient as a Flash-light +of Fun to give some idea of the ridiculous way in which the average +Japanese twists the ideas and phraseology of English in the +translations. + +I saw one great sign which brought a smile. It was up on the island of +Hokkaido. It had printed in large English letters: + + "GET YOUR MOTHER'S MILK HERE!" + +Below that sentence there was a picture of a cow which looked as much +like a combination of an Elephant and a Camel as anything I know. The +artist must have been a wonder. Attached to each of the cow's udders +were long lines of hose that ran for about ten feet across a big +bill-board. At the end of each line of hose was a nipple, like our +American baby-nipples. At the end of each nipple there was a man-sized +baby pulling away at the nipple. It was one of the funniest advertising +signs I ever saw. I watched several Americans look up at it and every +one of them laughed aloud. And the funny thing about it was that it was +intended to be a serious advertising sign. + + * * * * * + +At a banquet given in the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo one of the most +side-splitting incidents happened unintentionally that ever happened at +any banquet anywhere. + +One of the sons of a great Japanese business man was speaking. The +banquet was in honor of a well-known College President from America who +had come to take up work in the Orient. This banquet was to welcome him +officially to Japan. + +One of the speakers, sitting beside Mr. Uchida, the Foreign Minister, +had been a student in America where this man was formerly the college +president and he was trying to make the crowd see how happy he was to +welcome the president to Japan. He did it in the following language as +nearly as I can remember it: + +"I feel like a cartoon I see in your peculiar paper--what you call +him--_Puck_? _Judge_? No--he bin in that peculiar paper, _Life_? That +was he. + +"This picture; he shows two dogs talking to each other. + +"One dog he a great, what you call him--Coolie? Pug? Yes, he was a +Scottish Coolie. The other was a little wee dog; a Pugnacious Dog, I +think you call him. + +"The little dog he have his tail all done up in the bandages. + +"The big dog say, 'Little dog, for why you have your tail all bandaged +up like that? You have an accident?' + +"'No,' say the little dog, 'but my master, he just come home from +France, and I am so glad to see him I bin wagging my tail all day long +until it get broke and I have to have him wrapped up like this.'" + +Then the speaker turned dramatically--with the deepest sense of +seriousness; without a trace of a smile on his face, without a glimmer +of consciousness of the fact that the Americans at that banquet were +biting their teeth to keep from bursting into laughter; and with a grand +flourish, pointed to the American dignitary and said, "I feel just like +that little dog. I so glad to see Dr. ---- come to Japan that I have +been wagging my tail all day long." + +But he got no further. The American crowd; full-dressed, and full of +dignity as it was; exploded. That speech was too much, even for the sake +of international courtesy, to expect such a crowd to hold in. +Fortunately most of the educated Japanese there saw the joke and joined +in the laugh. + + * * * * * + +We had a funny experience in a dining car on a Japanese train coming +from northern Japan down to Tokyo one evening. + +A well-dressed Japanese in a rich Kimono sat drinking heavily at a table +a few feet from us. + +Suddenly he looked up and yelled "Silence!" looking directly at us. + +It was so sudden and so funny that I laughed. This made the Japanese +gentleman angry. + +Then he let forth a more extended English sentence. Later we figured +that it was the only sentence in English that he knew, and that he had +learned that sentence by sitting at the feet of some stern, English +teacher who had occasion to reiterate that sentence frequently. + +This drunken Japanese looked at me sternly for laughing and said, +"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!" + +This was too much for my sense of humor and I laughed again. + +"Silence! All gentlemen must be silent!" he yelled a third time. + +"We must get away from him; or we'll get into trouble. I can't keep from +laughing when he repeats that," I said to Dr. Goucher. + +We all moved back to another table, but Dr. Goucher sat by himself at a +little table. This moving, insulted the drunken Japanese and he came +back to where Dr. Goucher sat and leered into his face yelling once +again, "All gentlemen must be silent!" + +At this one of the party jumped to the side of Dr. Goucher and took the +Japanese by the shoulder and turned him around and said, "Go! Sit down, +fool!" + +The train was whirling through the night. There were mutterings and +imprecations among the Japanese and we thought that they were directed +toward us; but a missionary who could understand the language, said that +the whole crowd of Japanese was severely reprimanding the drunken +Japanese for insulting foreigners. They told him in Japanese phrases +that he ought to be ashamed of insulting foreigners in his own country. + +About five minutes after this he suddenly left his seat, came staggering +down the aisle of the car with a plate full of big red apples and +offered an apple to each one of us as a peace offering. + +We got to calling him, in our party "Old Mr. 'All gentlemen must be +silent!'" and he came to be a real character in our fun. + +But one morning a month later as we were all boarding a train in Fusan, +Korea, bound for Seoul, who should be sitting in the car but "Old Mr. +'All gentlemen must be silent.'" + +This time he was in American clothes. We had a Japanese friend with us. +We told this friend about the incident on the train in northern Japan +and asked him who the man was. + +"Why that is a member of the House of Lords and he is going up to Korea +representing the Diet to make a report on the Korean outrages," we were +told. + +Another month passed and I was coming back from Seoul, Korea, to Tokio, +Japan, when I suddenly ran into our old friend "All gentlemen must be +silent!" This time he was drunk again, and sitting in a Japanese dining +car with the same Kimono on that he had worn the first time we saw him. +He saw me enter the car. + +I tried to avoid him, but he was not to let this opportunity for +international courtesy go by unnoticed and unimproved. So, much to my +delight and surprise, he arose, and made a low bow. + +I bowed back. He made another bow until his nose almost touched the car. +I made a return bow. He made a third one. I followed suit. He made a +fourth. I made a fourth, although I was beginning to feel dizzy and my +insides were beginning to complain. + +I wondered when the thing would stop. I thought of a hundred fat men I +had seen on a Gymnasium floor trying to do the same thing and touch the +floor with their hands. I knew that there was a limit to my endurance in +a test of this kind. He bowed five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten times, +and I bowed back. I could see things whirling around me. + +"Blame it, why doesn't he stop some time!" I said to myself. + +I was desperate. Then suddenly I looked at him and he looked at me and +he said, with great dignity, "All gentlemen must be silent!" and sat +down, with his friends and his wines. + +I don't know whether he realized how funny it was or not. I don't know +whether he even knew what he was saying in his drunken condition, but I +do know that when I got out of that car into the vestibule I had the +laugh of my life. A Japanese woman came by, smiled at me and I am sure +said to herself: + +"Ah, these Americans they are all crazy!" + + * * * * * + +The last Flash-light of Fun is a picture from the Philippines. + +I have spoken in the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" of the trip to +the Negrito tribe, but in that chapter I did not speak of the desperate +adventure of the trip back down the jungle trail to civilization after +the experience with the old man. + +For the second time on that memorable day I dropped in my tracks with a +sunstroke. My legs refused to move. My muscles were congested with waste +matter and evidently my brain was also. When I returned to consciousness +I saw lying beside me Mr. Huddleston, an old missionary who had been in +the Philippines for many years. Across from, him was a naked Negrito who +was acting as our guide. + +I looked up in a tree above us and saw what I thought was a group of +monkeys. + +"Look at the monkeys!" I said to the missionary. + +"There are no monkeys in that tree!" he said. + +That made me angry. My mind was affected by the sun to such an extent +that I had an insane desire to grab the Bolo of the Negrito guide out of +his belt and run it through the missionary. I made a determined mental +effort to do so, but my arm would not work. I strove as one strives in a +dream when he is trying to run away from some imagined danger and his +feet are tied down. If I could have gotten my hands on that bolo I +would have run it through the missionary without a minute's hesitation. + +But my mind was detracted from this thought by two large elephants which +I suddenly saw running down the path on which we were lying. I yelled +aloud! + +"The elephants! They will trample us man! Look! There they come!" I +cried pointing up the trail on which we were lying. + +"Why you're plumb crazy man! You've missed too many boats! That sun's +got you! There are no elephants on this trail!" + +"But I know elephants when I see them!" I cried and tried to roll out of +the trail but again found it impossible to make my brain and my muscles +coordinate. It was a terrible moment to me. + +"My God man! Are you crazy! I know elephants when I see them. They're +right on us now! Help me out of here! I can't move!" + +"I tell you there are no elephants and there are no monkeys in these +islands. I've been here twenty years or more!" + +"But I know elephants when I see them!" + +But just at that moment a much greater danger confronted us, for I saw +three tigers leap out of the jungle and start after the two elephants; +right down the trail toward us. Then I knew that we were as good as +dead. + +I yelled: "Tigers! Tigers! They are running after the elephants! They +are on top of us!" + +The fool of a missionary laughed aloud, as he lay on the trail and said, +"Plumb crazy! Plumb crazy! Sun's got him! Sun's got him!" + +"Sun's got who, fool? The elephants and tigers will kill us in about a +minute!" + +But just then something happened which upset my calculations and made me +have a feeling that--after all--perhaps the old missionary was +right--for suddenly those two elephants; being too closely pursued by +the tigers; nonchalantly flew into the air like two great birds, and +lighted in the tree over our heads where I thought the monkeys were. If +those elephants hadn't started to fly; I should still be arguing with +the missionary; but as it turned out; I shut my fool mouth and decided +that the missionary was right and that I had "Missed too many boats." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FREEDOM + + +"SELF-DETERMINATION!" That phrase has set the whole world on fire! + +"Independence!" That word somehow has awakened the Oriental world; +awakened that mass of humanity as it has never been awakened before. + +Korea perhaps has thrilled to this awakening as no other section of the +Orient or the Near and Far East. India's millions are restless; the +Filipino is hungry for Independence although he is loyal to the United +States; but Korea has the matter set in its heart like adamant. This +determination will never be broken; Korea will never be conquered by +Japan! + +This dream of complete and full independence is buried in the souls of +the children, as well as in the souls of the brave women, and of the old +men of Korea. + +"It is one of the most thrilling things I have ever seen in the Orient!" +said a man on the Editorial staff of _Millard's Weekly_. "It is the most +significant outcome of the war; Korea's passion for independence, and +the Student Movement in China!" + +I said to a business man of California who had traveled all over the +Orient and who had been sent as part of the Commission that prepared the +way for the abandonment of the Picture Bride custom, "What is the most +significant thing you have seen in the Orient?" + +"The determination of the Koreans for Self-determination!" was his quick +reply. + +"Will they get it?" + +"It is inevitable in time!" he responded, and then he added: "Why the +little rascals; the children, I mean; paint the Korean flags on their +brown bellies, because the Japanese gendarmes will not allow them to +display the Korean flag in public!" and he laughed aloud at the memory. + +"Have you seen Korean kiddies with flags painted on their stomachs?" + +"Dozens of them. They like to show them to Americans," he said. + +A week later I was walking with a Korean missionary and asked him if +what the business man from California had told me about the children was +true and he said, "Wait until we find a group of them." + +We waited for only a few minutes when we ran into a crowd coming home +from school. A friendly smile and a low-voiced "Mansei" got attention. + +Then we pointed to our own stomachs. + +In a flash they caught on to what we wanted and, looking around +cautiously, each little rascal untied his robe and there, sure enough +was the flag of his country painted on his stomach. + +"That is one of the most thrilling sights I have seen in the Orient!" I +said with tears in my eyes. "If the children of the land feel that way, +Korea will never be conquered!" + +"The American understands! The American understands!" one of the little +bright-eyed boys said to the missionary in Korean. + + * * * * * + +A missionary was teaching a class of Koreans about Heaven. + +A little hand shot up. + +The missionary nodded that the child could speak. + +"Will there be any Japs in Heaven?" + +This was a baffling question; for diplomatic destinies were at stake. +But missionaries are usually honest, so she said, "Yes, if they are good +Japs!" + +"Then I don't want to go!" said the little eight-year-old Korean with +emphasis. + +Another teacher was telling a class in Geography to draw a map of the +Orient. + +One Korean child said, "Do we have to put in that little group of +islands east of the coast of China?" + +I met one Korean whom I had known in America. He was educated in the +American universities. He was in every sense of the word a gentleman and +an intellectual. + +He told me that the older children of his family had taught the +nine-months-old baby to raise its hands in the air above its head +whenever the word "Mansei" was spoken. + +I got an electrical shock of patriotism the day I saw that tiny child +lift its little arms above its head when that sacred word was spoken. It +was like a benediction of freedom! + +"This posture of the child is more significant," said Mr. ----, "when +you know that the most cruel method of torture that the Japanese use is +that of stretching a man, woman or child up by the thumbs to the ceiling +with his toes just touching the floor." + +In that same posture of torture Koreans rise to their toes when they +give their national cry of "Mansei" for all the world like an American +student giving his college yell. + +"It means life and death to give that cry as you know," said this +intelligent Korean. + +"Then what will your children do when they grow a bit older and go out +on the streets and yell this cry?" I asked this intelligent father. + +"Be killed, no doubt, by some ignorant, ruthless Japanese gendarme!" he +said with finality. + +"Then you should not allow them to teach its tiny lips that word!" I +said. + +"I would rather my child were dead than to have it forget that cry!" + +In this same family one Sunday afternoon a two-year-old child was +sleeping on a mat. The father and mother were reading some American +papers sent them by their old college friends in the United States. + +Suddenly that little two-year-old sat straight up in its mat bed, lifted +its arms in the air and shouted "Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!" three times +and then dropped back to sleep as if nothing had happened. + +"How did you feel?" I asked my Korean friend. + +"It made me cry. I said to my wife 'As long as Korea has babies with +that in their little souls before they are two years of age, Korea will +never be assimilated by Japan!'" + +The children of Korea look up at the ceiling when a Japanese teacher +enters a room. They are compelled to have Japanese teachers; even in the +mission schools. The children refuse to do anything for a Japanese +teacher. + +One day a Japanese teacher thought that he would break that mood by +telling a funny story. He told it with skill. + +But not a child laughed, although one of them said to her father that +night, "It was hard not to laugh for it was a very funny story!" + +"Who tells you to do these things; you students? Who teaches you to +treat your Japanese teachers in that manner?" my Korean friend asked his +six-year-old child. + +"Nobody tells us; we just do it ourselves! All the children hate the +Japanese!" he replied with the wisdom of a grown man. + +All over Korea we saw Korean flags cut in walls, carved on stones, and +against excavations where the sand was impressionable to little fingers +and sticks. I took many photographs of these unconventional flags. + +There is one instance where Korean children went on a strike just at +Commencement time. It meant that they would not get their diplomas but +that was just the reason they did it: to show their contempt for +Japanese diplomas. + +Japanese authorities begged them to return to school. + +Finally on Commencement Day they decided to return. + +Something had happened. + +It was a day of rejoicing among the Japanese so they invited a lot of +Japanese officers to the Commencement exercises. + +The diplomas were given, to each boy; the Japanese teachers bowing, and +smiling in their peculiar way. + +Then a thirteen-year-old Korean boy stepped to the front to make the +address of thanks. He made a beautiful speech of thanks. The Japanese +teachers were bowing with delight. + +But the boy's speech was not finished. He paused toward the end, threw +back his blouse, lifted his proud head and said, "I have only this one +thing further to add." + +He knew the seriousness of what he was about to do. He knew that it +would possibly mean death to him and his relatives. + +"We want but one thing of you Japanese. You have given us education, and +you have given us these diplomas. The teachers have been good to us." + +Then he reached in his blouse and pulled out a Korean flag. To have one +in one's possession is a crime in Korea in the judgment of the Japanese. + +Waving it above his little head he cried, "Give us back our country! May +Korea live a thousand years! Mansei! Mansei! Mansei!" + +At that signal every boy in that school jumped to his feet, whipped out +a Korean flag and frantically waved it in the air, weeping and yelling +in wild abandonment to the faith and courage of freedom in their +hearts! + +Then they tore their diplomas up before the horrified and angered +Japanese teachers. + +The result was a great student demonstration for freedom; which was +broken up by a force of Japanese gendarmes with drawn swords; but not +before the shooting of many boys and girls; and not before over four +hundred girls and boys were thrown into prison; some of them never to +emerge. + +In the chapter on "Flash-lights of Faith" I told the story of the +seventy-five-year-old Korean who unflinchingly faced the Japanese +gendarmes and admitted that he knew the source from which the +Independence Movement had come; and knew the signers of the Declaration +personally; every one of them. This spirit burns in the heart of, not +only the babies of Korea but also in the souls of the white haired +stately patriarchs. + +One old man who was dumb had his own way of expressing his patriotism +when "Mansei" was yelled. He always lifted his arms above his head. He +could not speak but he could yell with his arms! + +This placed the Japanese authorities in the ridiculous position of +arresting a dumb man for yelling "Mansei!" + +They tortured him for months. He was told that he would be released if +he would promise never to lift his hands above his head again. + +He could not speak in answer to their demands. They waited. + +Suddenly he caught their meaning. They were trying to frighten him from +giving vent to his only method of showing his patriotism. + +His eyes flashed fire. He leapt to his feet with a contemptuous look at +his Japanese captors. + +Then like flashing piston rods of steel his arms shot into the air above +his head three times, shouting in their mute patriotism, "Mansei! +Mansei! Mansei!" + +Nor are the women void of this determination for freedom. It beats in +their brave hearts. It is a great flame in their souls as well as in the +hearts of the children and men of the peninsula. + +"The soul's armor is never set well to heart unless a woman's hand has +braced it, and it is only when she braces it loosely that the honor of +manhood fails!" says Robert McKenna in "The Adventure of Life." + +If that is a true definition of the strength of honor and the desire for +freedom then the armor of the Korean men is well set. + +Sauci, a young Korean girl was under arrest. She was just a school girl +and very beautiful; with dark brown eyes; skin the color of a walnut; +and a form, bred of the grace of her much walking race. She had walked +the innumerable trails of her native land from babyhood and the rhythmic +swing of her supple body would have made any race, save that of her +conquerors, reverent with admiration. + +Sauci was too much for her Japanese captors. + +The Japanese guard struck her across the mouth with a whip. + +"That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I don't hate you for +that blow!" said Sauci. + +This angered the Jap and he struck her again. This stroke left a streak +of blood across her face. + +Sauci said again, "That doesn't hurt me. That is the grace of God. I do +not hate you for striking me!" + +The gendarme was furious. His anger was like that of a beast. He flew at +her blindly, and struck, struck, struck her woman's body until he was +exhausted. + +A few days later when she was recovering from that brutal beating, a +high official of the Japanese gendarme force came to see her. + +"Sauci," said he to her, recognizing her for an intelligent Korean girl, +"why do not the Koreans like us?" + +She replied, "I had a dream last night here in the cell. That will tell +you why. In my dream a visitor came to our home and stayed for dinner. +Then instead of going home, the visitor stayed all night. Then the +visitor stayed two or three days. Then two or three months. Then two or +three years. We were surprised but were too polite to say anything. + +"But finally the visitor got to telling us how to run our house." + +"How?" asked the Japanese official, "Did the visitor tell you how to run +your house?" + +"The visitor," replied Sauci, "told us that he didn't like our wall +paper. 'I think you had better get new paper!' he said. 'I do not like +your clothes and your schools. Wear clothes like mine, and have schools +like mine. I do not like your way of talking. Learn my language!' + +"So finally we got tired of our visitor and said, 'Please go home! WE do +not like you! We do not want you! Please go home!'" + +"But what has that to do with us?" said the Japanese official. + +"Why in a few days the visitor in my dream went home!" said Sauci +simply. "And in a few years the Japanese will go back home also!" Such +is the courageous spirit of the Korean women. + + * * * * * + +One day an American friend of mine had gone to the Police Station with a +young Korean girl who had been summoned to appear on what was called a +"rearrest charge." + +For the Japanese feel perfectly free to rearrest a person even after +that person has been proven innocent of a charge. A Korean may be +rearrested any time. He can never feel free. + +This young, educated girl had been subjected to such indignities on her +previous arrest as I would not be able to describe in this book; so she +begged the woman friend to go with her. + +As she entered the station a rough, ignorant Japanese officer snarled at +her as she passed, "Hello! Are you here again? I thought you were still +in prison!" + +When he had gone from the room the Korean girl said to the American +woman, "That man beat me for ten hours one day the last time I was in +prison!" + +"Why did he beat you?" asked the missionary. + +"He was trying to compel me to give him the names of those girls who +belonged to the 'Woman's League'." + +"And you would not tell him their names?" + +"I would rather have been beaten to death than give him their names!" + +"Thank God for your courage!" said the missionary, for she had seen the +girl's body when she had gotten out of prison; the burns of cigarette +stumps all over her beautiful skin; the scars, the whip marks; the +desecrations. + +When I was told this story, amid the tears of the narrator, an American +college woman, she concluded with fire in her soul: "I have never seen +such courage on the part of women in all my life! Even mere girls and +children have it. Most of those who are arrested come out of our +American Missionary schools. There isn't a one of them who doesn't have +in her soul the spirit of Joan of Arc. If France had one Joan of Arc, +Korea has ten thousand!" + +One young girl of whom I heard was kept in prison under constant torture +for six months. And a cruel imprisonment it is. I visited this prison +myself one winter day when I was in Korea. The thermometer was at zero; +the snow covered the ground, and there wasn't a fire in a single room in +that prison save where the Japanese guards were staying, and they were +huddled around a roaring coal stove. + +And this is the show prison of the whole Peninsula. The Japanese take +visitors through it. But to an American even it is fit only for the +darkness of the Middle Ages. + +In its limited quarters I saw ten and fifteen young girls, sweet faced, +cultured, educated school girls, huddled together in narrow rooms, +without a single chair, so closely packed that they were seated on the +floor like bees in a hive. + +After six months of this awful life the girl of whom I speak was about +to be released. + +The guard questioned her. "Now what are you going to do?" + +Her answer came, quick as a shot, although she knew that it would send +her back to the hell from which she was about to be released. + +"It is either liberty for Korea or we die!" she said. + +And in three minutes, beaten, and dragged on the ground by the hair she +was thrown into the cell from which she had been taken; to rot and die +as far as the Japanese were concerned. + +Another girl who had been kept in jail 135 days without even a charge +having been preferred against her was released. Her old mother came to +meet her and while in Seoul the mother attended an Independence Meeting +for women. The whole crowd of women then went to the Police Station and +shouted "Mansei"! + +The mother was arrested and cruelly beaten in spite of her seventy-five +years of age. + +When they were through beating her they said, "Now will you refrain from +yelling, 'Mansei!'" + +"Never!" said this old woman. + +Then they took a bar of iron and beat her over the legs until she +dropped. + +"Now will you refrain from yelling 'Mansei?'" + +The old woman was weak, but in a low, painful whisper said, "The next +time the women come to yell, if I am able to walk I will be with them!" + +Another old woman was brought to prison for yelling "Mansei!" When they +asked her why she yelled "Mansei" she answered in a sentence that sums +up the entire spirit that is in the woman-heart of Korea. + +"I have only one word in my head and that is 'Mansei!'" + +I personally, one day in Korea, saw the Japanese gendarmes come for a +Korean girl. She was one of the most popular girls in the American +Methodist Missionary School. + +It was the common custom for Japanese officials to come and take Korean +girls out of these schools, without warning, without warrants, without +words, and carry them off to prison. + +Often the girl was not even permitted to say good-by to her American +teachers or to write a word to her parents. + +"They are not even permitted to supply themselves with toilet articles," +said the matron to me that day. + +On this day, six big, brutal, ugly faced, animal-like Japanese officers +came for this beautiful girl. + +The missionary women wept as the girl was dragged away. The girl waved +good-by. + +It was a sight never to be forgotten; one of those Flash-lights of +Freedom, which burned its way into my soul with the hot acid of +indignation. This injustice and indecency in the treatment of a pure +girl made my blood run hot in my veins. + +The look on her face I shall never forget. It was such a look as the +martyrs of old must have had when they died for their faith. + +"Good-by! Good-by! Give my love to Mary and Elizabeth!" she cried to the +missionary woman standing by, helpless to assist her. These two names +were children of the missionary home; children whom this Korean girl had +learned to love as she lived in this American home. + +"And the awful thing about it all, is," said the missionary to me as +they took the girl away, "that, as pure as that girl is, as pure as a +flower, she will be taken to a prison fifty miles from Seoul, kept there +under torture for six months, and she will not be allowed to see her +friends. They will not even allow us to visit her. She may be undressed +and spat upon by men who are lower than animals. She may suffer even +worse than that----" + +Then the American missionary woman fainted. + +That flash-light may be duplicated a hundred times in Korea. + +"The woman of Korea suffers as much as the man. But thank God they do +not flinch!" said an American missionary. + +The Japanese Gendarmes have forbidden the singing of several of the +great church hymns in mission churches because they insist that these +are hymns of Freedom; that they foment what the Japanese call "Dangerous +Ideas." Japanese spies have reported certain Seoul Methodist churches +for singing hymns that, to their way of thinking, were directed against +the Japanese Government. This particular illustration of the peculiar +workings of the Japanese mind might have been included in the chapter on +Flash-lights of Fun; were it not for the fact that the Japanese officers +themselves call these old church hymns "Hymns of Freedom." + +The Japanese are just as much afraid of these "Dangerous Thoughts" in +Japan as they are in Korea. A good illustration of this fear is the fact +that a certain picture corporation of America called "The Liberty Film +Company" sent several films to Japan. The Government would not allow +these pictures to be shown until that word "Liberty" was cut from the +film. + +Certain Japanese spies reported a Mission church in Seoul for singing +"Rock of Ages." + +"But why may we not sing 'Rock of Ages'?" asked the American preacher in +charge. + +"Because it starts off with 'Mansei!'" replied the officer. + +He interpreted the thought of "Rock of Ages" to be a direct imputation +that the Japanese Government was not able to take care of the Koreans +and that they were flying to some other protecting power. + +"It would be funny if it were not so serious!" said a missionary to me +one day in Seoul. + +Later they stopped the churches from singing "Nearer My God to Thee," +because there seemed to be an implication in that, that those who sang +that hymn, were swearing allegiance to a higher power than that of +Japan. + +"Ridiculous! Absolutely ridiculous!" I said in disgust. + +"Yes, ridiculous, but serious," replied the missionary, "when you have +to live with it year in and year out." + +"Crown Him Lord of All," insisted the Japanese spies, when they +seriously reported a certain church for singing that old hymn was +"Dangerous Thought." It seemed to this ignorant spy that "Crowning Him" +was putting some other power before that of the Japanese Government. + +"All Hail the Power of Jesus' Name" has been put under the ban and when +a certain missionary woman was asked to sing at the Korean Y.M.C.A. and +announced that she was going to sing "Oh, Rest in the Lord" she was +advised not to sing it because it was considered by the gendarmes to be +"Dangerous Thought" and to suggest "Liberty," "Freedom" and such +dangerous words and ideas. + +When one Protestant preacher prayed about "Casting Out Devils" he was +reported by Japanese spies, who insisted that he was talking about +Japanese in Korea and meant that these should be cast out of the land. + +"'It is to laugh!' as the French say!" I responded to this story. + +"No! It is to weep!" said the American missionary. + +When Dr. Frank W. Schoefield spoke against Prostitution the Japanese +papers declared that he had made a virulent attack on the Government. + +One Korean preacher who preached on a theme from Luke 4:18, which reads +"Setting the captives free," was arrested and kept in jail for four +days. + +"It is very foolish to yell 'Mansei' when you know you will be killed," +I said to a Korean preacher. I wanted to see how he would take that +suggestion. + +"We Koreans would rather be under the ground than on top of it if we do +not get our liberty!" he said with a thrill in his quiet voice. + +One day a Korean preacher was arrested for preaching on the theme, "Seek +ye first the Kingdom of God and all these things shall be added unto +you," because that was, without doubt, disloyal to Japan and meant +rebellion. + +Another day a speaker in the Y.M.C.A. said, "Arise and let us build for +the new age!" He was asked to report to Police Headquarters just what he +meant by that kind of "Dangerous" talk about Freedom. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FAILURE + + +Three great Flash-lights of Failure stand out in the Far East and the +Oriental world to-day; one being the failure of a race to survive, +another being the failure of the world to understand that Shantung is +the Holy Land and not the appendix of China; this sacred shrine of the +Chinese which has so carelessly and listlessly been given over to Japan; +and the third being Japan's failure to understand that methods of +barbarism from the Dark Ages will not work in a modern civilization. + +"Why are they making all this fuss over Shantung?" an acquaintance of +mine said to me just before I left America. "Isn't it just a sort of an +appendix of China, after all? If I were the Chinese, I'd forget Shantung +and go on to centralize and develop what I had." + +That was glibly said, but the fact which the statement leaves out of +reckoning is that Shantung is the very heart and soul of China instead +of being the appendix. + +The average American has so often thought of China just as China; a +great, big, indefinite, far-off nation of four hundred million people, +always stated in round numbers, that Shantung doesn't mean much to us. +Yes, but it means much to China. + +It means about the same as if some nation should come along and take New +England from us; New England, the seat of all our most sacred history, +the beginning of our national life, the oldest of our traditions, the +burial-place of our early founders, the seat of our religious genesis. I +don't believe that many folks in New England would desire to be called +an appendix of the United States. + +So one of the things that I was determined to do when I went to China +was to go from one end of Shantung to the other, talking with coolies, +officials, old men and young men, students, and those who can neither +read nor write; missionaries and soldiers; natives and foreigners; to +see just what importance Shantung is to China as a whole. + +The first thing I discovered was that it has about forty million people +living within the limits of the peninsula, close to half the population +of the United States. Does that sound as if it might be China's +appendix? You wouldn't think so if you saw the cities, roads and fields +of this great stretch of land literally swarming with human beings, and +every last one of them, as busy as ants. + +I rode one whole day across the peninsula. I happened to be traveling +with a man from Kansas. He was a man interested in farming and +wheat-growing. For hundreds of miles we had been passing through land +that was absolutely level and every inch of it cultivated. I had been +saying to myself over and over again, "Why, it's exactly like our Middle +West Country." + +Then much to my astonishment this Kansas man turned to me, and said, +"Did it ever occur to you that these fields of Shantung look just like +Kansas?" + +"Yes, it has just occurred to me this minute," I responded. + +Then the wife of the Kansas man said, "I have been shutting my eyes and +trying to imagine that I was in Kansas, it's so much like home." + +"And say, man, but a tractor on those fields would work wonders," added +a portion of William Allen White's reading constituency. + +And that is exactly how Shantung strikes an American when he has ridden +all day through its great stretches of level fields. He can easily +imagine himself riding through Kansas for a day. + +My first visit to Shantung was at Tsingtao, the headquarters of the +German concession and now of the Japanese concession. I spent a day +there, and took photographs of the wharves and town. On the wharves +were still standing hundreds of boxes marked with German names and the +inevitable phrase "Made in Germany." Those boxes were mute reminders of +the evacuation of one nation from a foreign soil. But standing side by +side with these boxes were also other hundreds, already being shot into +Shantung in a steady stream; and these boxes have a new trademark +printed in every case in English and Japanese, "Made in Japan." + +I spent several days in Tsinanfu and Tientsin, two great inland cities, +and more than a week in cruising about through Shantung's little towns, +its villages and its sacred spots. + +I heard of its mines and of its physical wealth. But the world already +knows of that. The world already knows that this physical wealth of +mines and raw material was what made it look good to Germany and Japan. +But the thing that impressed me was its spiritual wealth. + +The thing that makes Shantung attractive to the Japanese, of course, is +not the spiritual wealth, as the world well knows. Perhaps the Japanese +have never considered the latter any more than the Germans did; but the +one thing that makes it most sacred to the Chinese, who are, after all, +a race of idealists, is its treasuries of spiritual memories and +shrines. + +In the first place, many Chinese will tell you that it is the "cradle of +the Chinese race." I am not sure that histories will confirm this +statement. And I am also not sure that that makes any difference as long +as the idea is buried in the heart of the Chinese people. A tradition +often means as much to a race as a fact. And the tradition certainly is +well established that Shantung is the birthplace of all Chinese history. +So that is one of the deeply rooted spiritual facts that makes Shantung +sacred to the Chinese. + +The second spiritual gold mine is that one of its cities, Chufu, is the +birthplace and the last resting-place of the sage Confucius. And China +is literally impregnated with Confusian philosophy and Confucian +sayings. + +I took a trip to this shrine in order to catch some of the spiritual +atmosphere of the Shantung loss. The trip made it necessary to tramp +about fifteen miles coming and going through as dusty a desert as I ever +saw, but that was a trifle compared with the thrill that I had as I +stood at last before the little mound about as high as a California +bungalow; the mound that held the dust of this great Chinese sage. +During the war I stood before the grave of Napoleon in France. Before I +went to France I visited Grant's tomb. I have also stood many times +beside a little mound in West Virginia, the resting-place of my mother, +and I think that I know something of the sacredness of such experiences +to a human heart, but somehow the thrill that came to me on that January +morning, warm with sunlight, spicy with winter cold, produced a feeling +too deep for mere printed words to convey. + +"If we feel as we do standing here on this sacred spot, think of how the +Chinese feel toward their own sage!" said an old missionary of the +party. + +"Yes," added another, "and remember that the Chinese revere their +ancestors and their sages and their shrines more than we ever dream of +doing. Any grave is a sacred spot to them, so much so that railroads +have to run their trunk lines for miles in a detour to avoid graves. +These Chinese are idealists of the first water. They live in the past, +and they dream of the future." + +"When you get these facts into your American heads," added a third +member of the party, not without some bitterness, "then you will begin +to know that the Chinese do not estimate the loss of Shantung in terms +of mineral wealth." + +At Chufu, the resting-place of Confucius, there is also the spot of his +birth, and this too is most sacred to the Chinese nation. We visited +both places. I think that I never before quite realized just what the +loss of Shantung meant to these Chinese until that day, unless it was +the next day, when we climbed the sacred mountain Taishan, which is +also in Shantung. + +"It is the oldest worshiping-place in the world," said the historian of +the party. "There is no other spot on earth where continuous worship has +gone on so long. Here for more than twenty centuries before Christ was +born men and women were worshiping. Emperors from the oldest history of +China down to the present time have all visited this mountain to +worship. Confucius himself climbed the more than six thousand steps to +worship here." + +"Yes," said another missionary historian, "and this mountain is referred +to twelve separate times in the Chinese classics, and great pilgrimages +were made here as long ago as two centuries before Christ." + +That day we climbed the mountain up more than six thousand stone steps, +which are in perfect condition and which were engineered thousands of +years ago by early worshipers. + +The only climb with which I can compare that of Mt. Taishan is that of +Mt. Tamalpais overlooking San Francisco. The climb is about equal to +that. The mountain itself is about a mile in height, and the climb is a +hard one to those who are unaccustomed to mountain-climbing, and yet +thousands upon thousands climb it every year after pilgrimages from all +over China. + +We climbed to the top of Taishan, and saw the "No-Character Stone" +erected by Emperor Chin, he who tried to drive learning out of China +hundreds of years ago. We saw the spot on which Confucius stood, and +glimpsed the Pacific Ocean, ninety miles away, on a clear day. It was a +hard climb; but, when one stood on the top of this, the most sacred +mountain of all China, he began to understand the spiritual loss that is +China's when her worshiping-place is in the hands of aliens. + +"And don't forget that Mencius, the first disciple of Confucius, was +born and died in Shantung, too, when you are taking census of the +spiritual values of Shantung to the Chinese," was a word of caution from +the old missionary who was checking up on my facts for me. He had been +laboring in China for a quarter of a century. + +"And don't forget that the Boxer uprising originated in Shantung, and +don't forget that it is called, and has been for centuries, 'the Sacred +Province' by the Chinese. It is their 'Holy Land.' And don't forget +that, from Shantung, coolies went to South Africa in the early part of +this century and that the Chinese from Shantung were the first to get in +touch with the western world. And don't forget that nine-tenths of the +coolies who went to help in the war in France were from Shantung!" he +added with emphasis. This was a thing that I well knew, for I had, only +a few weeks before this, seen two thousand coolies unloaded from the +_Empress of Asia_ at Tsingtao. + +No, Shantung is not an appendix of China, as many Americans suppose; but +it is the very heart and soul of China. It is China's "Holy Land." It is +the "Cradle of China." It is the "Sacred Province of China." It is the +shrine of her greatest sage. It is the home of "the oldest +worshiping-place on earth." It is because of its spiritual values that +China is unhappy about the loss of Shantung, and not because of its +wealth of material things. + +The failure of the world to understand what Shantung means to China and +the failure of Japan to understand that they cannot for many years stand +out against the indignation of the entire world in continuing to keep +Shantung is one of the great spiritual failures of the Far East in our +century. + +The second great failure is the tragic failure of an entire race of +people; that of the Ainu Indians of Japan. + +It is a pathetic thing to see a human race dying out; coming to "The End +of the Trail." But I was determined to see them, in spite of the fact +that people told me I would have to travel from one end of Japan to the +other; and then cross four hours of sea before I got to Hokkaido, the +most northern island of Japan, where lived the tattered remnants of +this once noble race. + +The name of this dying race is pronounced as if it were spelled I-new +with a long I. + +These are the people who inhabited Japan before the present Japanese +entered the land from Korea and drove them, inch by inch, back and north +and west across Japan. It was a stubborn fight, and it has lasted many +centuries; but to-day they have been driven up on the island of +Hokkaido, that northern frontier of Japan where the overflow of Japan is +pouring at the rate of four thousand a year, making two million to date +and only about fifty thousand of them Ainus. + +"Are they like our American Indians in looks, since their history is so +much like them?" I asked my missionary friend. + +"Wait until you see them, and decide for yourself. I know very little +about American Indians." + +So one morning at three o'clock, after traveling for two days and nights +from one end of Japan to the other, and then crossing a strait between +the Japan Sea and the Pacific Ocean to the island, we climbed from our +train, and landed in a little country railroad station. + +It was blowing a blizzard, and the snow crashed into our faces with +stinging, whip-like snaps. + +I was appointed stoker for the small stove in the station while the +rest of the party tried to sleep on the benches arranged in a circle, +huddled as close as they could get to the stove. + +We were the first party of foreigners of this size that had ever honored +the village with a visit. And in addition to that we had come at an +unearthly hour. + +Who but a group of insane foreigners would drop into a town at three +o'clock in the morning with a blizzard blowing? Either we were insane, +or we had some sinister motives. Perhaps we were making maps of the +seacoast. + +And before daylight half of the town was peeking in through the windows +at us. Then the policemen came. They were Japanese policemen, and did +not take any chances on us. Even after our interpreter had told them +that we were a group of scientists who had come to visit the Ainus they +still followed us around most of the morning, keeping polite track of +our movements. + +About five o'clock that morning, as I was trying to catch a cat-nap, the +newsboys of the village came to get the morning papers which had come in +on the train on which we had arrived. They unbundled the papers in the +cold station; their breath forming clouds of vapor; laughing and joking +as they unrolled, folded and counted the papers; and arranged their +routes for morning delivery. + +It took me back to boyhood days down in West Virginia. I did the same +thing as these Japanese boys were doing. I, too, arose before daylight, +climbed out of bed, and went whistling through the dark streets to the +station where the early morning trains dumped off the papers from the +city. I, too, along with several other American boys of a winter +morning, breathed clouds of vapor into the air, stamped my feet to keep +them warm, and whipped my hands against my sides. I, too, unwrapped the +big bundles of papers, and did it in the same way in which these +Japanese boys did, by smashing the tightly bound wrappers on the floor +until they burst. I, too, counted, folded, put in inserts, arranged my +paper-route and darted out into the frosty air with the snow crunching +under my feet. How universal some things are. The only difference was +that these boys were dressed in a sort of buccaneer uniform. They had on +high leather boots, and belts around their coats that made them look as +if they had stepped out of a Richard Harding Davis novel. But otherwise +they went through the same processes as an American boy in a small town. + +When the vanguard of villagers had come to inspect us, they at first +tried to talk Russian to us. They had never seen any other kind of +foreigners. They had never seen Americans in this far-off island. + +When daylight came, we started out on a long tramp to the Ainu villages. +They were a mile or two away on the ocean. These people always build +near the sea if they can. Fishing is one of their main sources of food. + +We spent the day in their huts. They live like animals. A big, square +hut covered with rice straw and thatch, with a fence of the same kind of +straw running around the house, forms the residence. The only fire is in +the middle of the only room, and this consists of a pile of wood burning +on a flat stone or piece of metal in the center. There is no chimney in +the roof, and not even an opening such as the American Indians had in +the tops of their tepees. I do not know how they live. The smoke finds +its way gradually through cracks in the walls and roofs. One can hardly +find a single Ainu whose eyes are not ruined. The smoke has done this +damage. + +The only opening in their houses besides the door is one north window, +and it is never closed. In fact, there is no window. It is only an +opening. + +"Why is that? I'd think they would freeze on a day like this," I said to +the guide. + +"They keep it that way all winter, and it gets a good deal below zero +here," he said. + +"But why do they do it?" old Shylock demanded. + +"It is part of their religion. They believe that the god comes in that +window. They want it open, so that he can come in whenever he wishes. It +offends them greatly when you stick your head through that window." + +Pat tried it just to see what would happen, just like a man who looks +into the barrel of a gun, or a man who takes a watch apart, or wants to +hit a "dud" with a hammer just to see whether it is a dud. The result +was bad. There was a sudden series of outlandish yells from the +household. I think that every man, woman and child, including the dogs, +of which there were many, started at once. I wonder now how Pat escaped +alive, and only under the assumption that "the good die young" can I +explain his escape. + +I wanted some arrows to take to America as souvenirs; and, when an old +Indian pulled out a lot of metal arrows on long bows with which he had +killed more than a hundred bears, I was not satisfied. They were not the +kind of arrows I wanted. + +"What kind are you looking for?" I was asked. + +"Flint arrow-heads," I responded. + +"Why, man, these Indians have known the use of metals for five hundred +years. The stone age with them is half a thousand years in the past." + +"Have they a history?" I wanted to know. + +My interpreter, who has much knowledge of these things, having worked +among them for years, said, "All of the Japanese mythology is centered +about the battles that took place when these Indians were driven out of +Japan proper step by step." + +I was surprised to find that they were white people compared with the +Japanese who were their conquerors. There are other marked differences. +The Ainus are broad between the eyes instead of narrow as are the +Japanese. They are rather square-headed like Americans as compared with +the oval of the Japanese face. They do not have markedly slant eyes, and +they are white-skinned. They might feel at home in any place in America. +I have seen many old men at home who look like them, old men with +beards. This came as a distinct surprise to me. + +At each house, just in front of the ever-open window of which I have +spoken, there is a little crude shrine. It is more like a small fence +than anything that I know, a most crude affair made of broken bamboo +poles. Flowers and vines are planted here to beautify this shrine, and +every pole has a bear-skull on it. The more bear-skulls you have, the +safer you are and the more religious you have become. + +Pat was sacrilegious enough to steal a skull in order to get the teeth, +which he wanted as souvenirs. I was chagrined and shocked at Pat's lack +of religious propriety. However, I was enticed into accepting one of the +teeth after Pat had knocked them out and stolen them. + +"How do they worship bears and kill them at the same time?" I queried +the guide. + +"That's a part of the worship. They kill the bear, slowly singing and +chanting as they kill him. They think that the spirit of every bear that +they kill comes into their own souls. That's why they kill so many. That +seventy-year-old rascal over there has killed a hundred. He is a great +man in his tribe." + +"If I was a bear," commented Pat, "I'd rather they wouldn't worship me. +That's a funny way to show reverence to a god. I'd rather be their devil +and live than be their god and die." Pat is sometimes loquacious. "They +dance about the poor old bear as they kill him. One fellow will hurl an +arrow into his side, and then cry out, 'O spirit of the great bear-god, +come enter into me, and make me strong and brave like you! Come, take up +thine abode in my house! Come, be a part of me! Let thy strength and thy +courage be my strength and my courage!'" + +"Then," said the interpreter, "he hurls another arrow into him." + +"And what is Mr. Bear doing all that time?" + +"Mr. Bear is helpless. He is captured first in a trap, and then kept and +fattened for the killing. He is tied to a tree during the killing +ceremony." + +"All I gotta say is that they're darned poor sports," said Flintlock +with indignation. "They're poor sports not to give Mr. Bear a fighting +chance." + +And old Flintlock has voiced the sentiments of the entire party. + +Everybody that was at the Panama Pacific International Exposition will +remember the magnificent statue of an Indian there. This Indian was +riding a horse, and both were worn out and drooping. A spear which +dragged on the ground in front of the pony was further evidence of the +weariness of the horse and rider. The title of this Fraser bronze was +"The End of the Trail," and it was intended to tell the story of a +vanishing race, the American Indians. But even more could that picture +tell the story of the Ainus of Japan. + +"They will be entirely extinct in a quarter of a century," our guide +said. "They are going fast. They used to be vigorous and militant, as +Japanese mythology shows. They were a fighting race. They built their +houses by the sea. They used to go out for miles to fish, but now they +are so petered out that they go only to the mouths of the rivers to +fish. They used to hunt in the mountains, but they do not take +hunting-trips any more. Venereal diseases and rum (saki) have depleted +them year by year, just as in the case of our American Indians. They are +largely sterile now. They used to build their own boats, but they build +no more. It is a biological old age. Their day is through." + +"It is a sad thing to see a race dying out," said Pat. + +"Especially a white race, as these Ainus seem to be," said another +member of the party. + +And back to the village we went silently, plodding through a driving +blizzard that bore in upon us with terrific force. As we fought our way +through this blizzard, I could not help feeling a great sense of +depression. It is a fearful thing to see anything die, especially a race +of human beings. That is a great epic tragedy worthy of a Shakespeare. +That is enough to wring the soul of the gods. That a race has played the +game, has been powerful and conquering and triumphant, and then step by +step has petered out and become weak and senile until biological decay +has set in--that is fearful. + +Another illustration of the ignominious failure of a lower type of mind +to understand a higher type of mind is set forth in the following +letter which was written at my request by a missionary whom I met in San +Francisco just as the final chapters of this book were being written. + +The first time I met this missionary was in Seoul, Korea. + +I have been told so many times that the cruelties in Korea have been +stopped. Certain men said that they had been stopped immediately after +the Independence Movement, but they were not stopped. At frequent +intervals the American press is flooded with statements which come from +Japanese press sources that the outrages in Korea have ceased. + +I said to this missionary, who had just arrived from Korea, "Is it true +that the cruelties have stopped in Korea?" + +"No! They have not stopped! They have not even diminished! They are +getting worse, rather than better!" + +"Would you be willing to write out, in your own handwriting, a few +things that you know yourself which have occurred since I was in Korea +so that the book which I am writing may be accurate and up to date in +its facts?" + +"I will be glad to do that for you! We who are missionaries dare not +speak the truth!" + +"Why?" + +"If we did the Japanese Government would never let us get back to our +people!" + +"Then you may talk through me, if you are willing to do it. I want the +truth to get to the American people!" + +"I am not only willing but I am eager to talk!" said this missionary and +wrote out the following story of cruelty against an educated and +cultured Korean, who was the Religious and Educational Director in the +Seoul Y.M.C.A. This story of the latest Japanese barbarisms I pass on to +the reader in this chapter to illustrate another ignominious Hun failure +to understand that the practices of the Dark Ages will not work in this +century: + + "On May 26th, 1920, just as Mr. Choi was coming out of his + class room he was met by two detectives, one Korean and one + Japanese, who informed him that he was wanted at the Central + Police Station. Here he was turned over to the Chief of Police + and thrown into a room and kept all day. Mr. Brockman and Cynn + both made several attempts to find out why he was arrested. + Each time they were given an evasive answer. Finally Mr. Cynn + insisted that they tell him the cause of the arrest. It was + finally discovered that he was wanted in Pyengyang on certain + charges. He was to leave Seoul that evening on the 11 p.m. + train. Anxious to see how Mr. Choi was being treated, Mr. Cynn + and several of the Y.M.C.A. men went down to the station. Mr. + Choi with the other six students were standing on the platform. + Apparently Mr. Choi was not bound as is the usual custom. + Closer observation, however, revealed the fact that his hands + were bound with cords, but in his case the ropes were placed on + the inside instead of the outside, of the clothes. He arrived + in Pyengyang the next day, May 27, at 5 p.m. Instead of taking + Mr. Choi first they called in one of the students whose name is + Chai Pony Am. After the usual preliminary questions these + inquisitors of the Dark Ages said, 'We know all about you + everything you have done. There is no use for you to deny + anything. You make a clean confession of everything.' Mr. Choi + replied, 'I have done nothing. If I knew what you wanted, I + would tell you.' More pressure was urged in the way of + bombastic speech. Finally the police said, 'If you won't tell + of your own free will we will make you tell!' Then the + tortures, which the Government published broadcast had been + done away with, began. They brought out a round stool with four + legs and laid it down on its side with the sharp legs up and + made him strip naked. Then they took the silken bands (about 2 + in. wide) and placing his hands behind his back until the + shoulder blades touched begun bending the arm from the wrist + very tight. This completed, they made him kneel upon the sharp + edge of the legs of the stool with his shins. Then they took + the bamboo paddle (this is made of two strips of bamboo about 2 + in. wide and 2 ft. long wound with cord) and begun beating him + on the head, face, back, feet and thighs. Every time they + struck him his body would move and the movement cause the shins + to rub on the sharp edges of the stool. To further increase the + pain they took lighted cigarettes and burnt his flesh. This was + continued until the student fainted and fell off. They then + would restore the patient by artificial respiration and when he + refused to confess, continued the torture. This process was + continued for 45 minutes and then the student was put into a + dark cell and kept for three days. Upon the third day he was + again brought before these _just_ policemen and asked if he + were ready to confess. Said they, 'If you do not tell us this + time we will kill you. You see how the waters of the Tai Pong + (the river at Pyengyang) wear smooth these stones. That is what + we do with those who come in here. Many have been killed in + here. Your life is not worth as much as a fly.' He was + tortured in the same manner as before and then put back into + the cell for another three days. This process was continued + every three days for two weeks. + + "When Mr. Choi, the educational director of the Y.M.C.A. was + called in the police said, 'You are an educated gentleman and + we propose to give you the gentleman's treatment. We do not + want to treat you like ordinary men. Now we want you to tell us + what your thoughts have been and are. Make a confession of + anything you have done since March 1st, 1919.' Mr. Choi said, + 'What do you want me to confess? If you will give me a little + time I will write you out something.' This they refused to do + and said, 'Since you refuse to tell us we will make you tell. + We will treat you like all other dogs.' Then they forcibly took + off his clothes, and proceeded to bind him in the same manner + as the previous student. After being bound he was placed on the + stool and beaten. He did not lose his consciousness but fell + off the stool, and then was placed back and the same process + continued. When Mr. Choi fell off the stool the bands on his + arms were loosened and they proceeded to unloosen and rewind + his arms. This time they wound them tighter than before. At the + ends of these bands are brass rings which are placed next to + the flesh and made to press upon the nerves. This time Mr. Choi + said as they wound his right arm he felt a sharp pain and at + once noticed that he had lost the use of his arm. It was + paralyzed. Mr. Choi was tortured five times in all--one every + three days. The first torture lasted one hour and the + succeeding ones were less severe than the first. At the end of + two weeks, June 10th, Mr. Choi and the six students with him + were called before a police captain who said to the students, + 'There is nothing against you. Some bad Korean has testified + falsely against you. We are sorry you have suffered but you can + now go free.' However to Mr. Choi he said, 'You must remain + here a week yet. You are still under police supervision. Go to + ---- hotel and stay.' On June 16th the police came to the hotel + where he was staying and said, 'You may go down to Seoul + tonight.' Mr. Choi arrived in Seoul on the 17th and gave this + testimony. His arm is still paralyzed." + +And so it is that these great failures stand out: the failure of a race +of people to survive; the failure of the American people to estimate the +loss of Shantung at its proper valuation spiritually, and the failure of +Japan to understand that Korea is still and ever shall be _Korea the +Unconquered_; this Korea which I call "The Wild Boar at Bay." + + + + +CHAPTER X + +FLASH-LIGHTS OF FRIENDSHIP + + +We were running down the Samabs River in a small Dutch ship, the +_Merkeus_. This river, running almost parallel to the Equator, and not +more than fifty miles away from that well-known institution, cuts the +western end of Borneo in two, and lends phenomenal fertility to its +soil. + +Shooting around a bend in the river, suddenly there loomed on the +western shores, so close that we could throw a stone and hit it, a tree +that was leafless, dead as a volcanic dump; but its dead branches +literally swarmed with monkeys. The light in the west had so far gone +that they appeared as silent silhouettes against the sunset Their tails, +which seemed to be about three feet long, and were curled at the ends, +hung below the dead branches. One big fellow had perched himself on the +tiptop of the tree, and in the dim light he looked like a human sentinel +as his black outline appeared against the evening light. + +Then came Missionary Worthington's story about Kin Thung, the boy who, +with characteristic Oriental spirit, had quick murder in his heart: + +"It was while I was the head of the Boys' School down in Batavia, Java, +that it happened. One has experiences out here in dealing with youth +that he does not get at home, for it is inflammable material, explosive +to the highest degree." + +I waited for his story to continue as the Dutch ship glided swiftly down +the river toward the South China Sea, and night settled over us as we +sat there on the upper deck, watching the crimson glory change into +sudden purple. + +"I heard a noise and I knew there was a fight on in the dormitory. I had +seen the aftermath of such Malay and Chinese feuds in our schools +before, and I knew that it was no trivial matter, as it often is with +boy fights at home, so I hurried up. + +"When I got there I saw Kin Thung wiping his knife, and the boy he had +been fighting lying on the floor, bleeding from a long wound." + +"What had happened?" + +"Kin Thung was a quick-tempered boy. In addition to that, he was of a +sullen make-up, with, what I call, a criminal tendency in him. That, +added to his already volatile spirit, made him a real problem in the +school. For instance, he was the kind of a boy who, if a teacher called +on him without warning to recite, he would get uncontrollably angry, +turn sullen and refuse to answer." + +"Why didn't you fire him?" I said. + +"That would have been the easy thing to do. I preferred to win him +rather than to fire him!" + +I felt ashamed of myself for my suggestion, and looked out into the +night skies where the beautiful form of the southern cross loomed in the +zenith. + +"No, I didn't fire him." + +"What did you do?" + +"As I was dressing the boy's wound Kin Thung stood looking on, utterly +expressionless and unrepentant, even sullen. + +"I didn't say anything to Kin that night, save to ask him to come to the +office the next day. + +"The other boys were calling out to him as he entered, and I could hear +them through the window, 'I wonder how many strokes of the rattan he +will get?' for that is one of our forms of punishment. + +"He was no doubt wondering himself when he entered, still sullen. + +"I said to him, 'Kin, I could give you as punishment a hundred strokes +of the rattan. I could put you on rice and water for a month, or I could +put you to a room for a week in solitary confinement. But I am not +going to do either or any of them. I am going to pray for you!" + +"'I don't want you to, sir!' he cried in alarm. + +"'Kneel down!' I said to him. + +"'I don't want to.' + +"'Kneel down, I say!' + +"'I won't!' + +"'But this is your punishment. You would submit to the rattan if I +imposed that. You must submit to this!' I said. + +"'I hate prayer!' + +"'Kneel down, boy!' + +"He knelt. I prayed. He wept." + +This was the cryptic way the missionary came to the climax of his story. +Again the Southern Cross shot into view as we turned a curve in the +river. + +"The fountain broke. A boy's heart was won! I didn't have to fire him. I +won him!" + +"That lad came to me two years later as he started out from our school +in Batavia, and said, 'Mr. Worthington, that moment when you called me +into your office was the crucial moment of my life. If you had been +unkind to me then; if you had punished me, even as much as I deserved +it; if you had not been Christ-like, I should have killed you. I had my +knife ready. There was a demon in me! Your kindness, your praying for +me, broke something inside of me. I guess it was my heart. I cried. I +prayed. That morning saved my soul!'" + +"That was a marvelous experience, Mr. Missionary! It was a marvelous way +to meet the situation," I said in a low tone, looking up at the white +outline of the Southern Cross, and remembering two thieves. + +"It was Christ's way!" said the missionary. + +But perhaps the outstanding Flash-light of national Friendship is that +of America for the Philippines. I shall never forget the day we started +southward from winter-bound China for sun-warmed Manila. + +As the great ship swung about in the muddy waters of the Yangsti and +turned southward, the bitter winds of winter were blowing across her +deserted decks. But in two days one felt not only a breath of warm +tropical winds on his face but he also felt a breath of warmer +friendship blowing into his soul as he thought of the Philippines and +America. + +The first breath of warm winds from southern tropical seas gently kissed +one's cheeks that afternoon. It was a soothing breath of romance, +freighted with the scent of tropical trees. It was much of a contrast +with the bitter winter winds that had blown the day before at Shanghai. +There the snow was flying, and woolen suits were greatly needed. + +But to-night men and women alike walk the decks of this Manila-bound +ship. They are all in white. One stands at the bow of the ship, glad to +catch the salt spray on tanned cheeks, glad to feel the sea-touched +winds playing with his hair, glad to see fair women of the Orient tanned +with summer suns; for it is summer in the Philippines, while winter +reigns in China and the rest of the Oriental lands further north. + +Last night we passed the narrow straits leading out of Shanghai harbor +directly south. Two lighthouses blinked through the dusk of evening, the +one to the north in short sharp notes, like a musician of the sea +singing coasts, rapidly beating time. The light to the south seemed to +count four in blinks and then hold its last count like a note of music. +In between the two lighthouses vague, dim, mist-belted mountains of the +China coast loomed through the dusk. + +This morning and all day long we have been sailing past the huge +outlines of mountainous Formosa, that rich island off the coast of +China, between Shanghai and Manila. It looks like some fairly island +with its coves and caves, into which pours the purple sea, visible +through the faint mists of morning and noontime. Its precipitous sides +shoot down to the sea in great bare cliffs, save where, here and there, +a beautiful bay runs in from the southern sea to kiss the green lips of +the land. + +But now the sun is setting. I am watching it from my stateroom window. + + * * * * * + +And now it is the rainy season in the Philippines. + +It doesn't rain in Luzon; it opens up clouds, and oceans suddenly drop +to the land. Lakes and rivers form overnight. Bridges wash out, fields +are inundated, houses by thousands are swept away, and railroad tracks +twisted and played with, as if they were grappled by gigantic fists. + +Men will tell you of the great Typhoon that suddenly dropped out of the +mountains at Baguio, sliced off a few sections of the mountains, rushed +down through the great gorge, and left in its trail the iron ruins of +eight or ten bridges, put in by American engineers, founded on solid +granite; but swept away like playthings of wood, in an hour. + +One night we were driving from Baguio to Manila. + +A storm dropped suddenly out of the nowhere. We had no side curtains on, +and in just three minutes we were soaked to the skin, and dripping +streams of water. The artesian wells along the way were but dribbling +springs compared with us. + +The storm came out of a clear, star-lit sky. Storms come that way in the +Philippines. Only a few minutes before I had been looking up at the +Southern Cross admiring its beauty. I looked again and there was no +Southern Cross. A few great drops of rain fell and then came the deluge. + +Candle lights flickered in innumerable thatched houses where brown and +naked women fluttered about dodging the rain, looking strangely like +great paintings in the night. At the edge of each side porch a Bamboo +ladder reached up from the ground. A fire burned against the rain. This +fire leapt up for two feet. + +One could easily imagine on this stormy night, with every road a river, +every field a flood, and every vacant space a sea, that the thatched +houses raised on Bamboo poles were boats, afloat in a great ocean. The +fires on the back porches looked for all the world like the fires that I +have seen flaring against the night from Japanese fishing boats. + +We had been warm, personal friends since college days, this driver and +I. He had chosen the harder way of the mission fields to spend his life. + +"After all," said he, "that was a dream worth dreaming!" + +"What do you mean?" I asked him, a bit startled. + +"Why the American occupation of these islands; the dream that McKinley +had, of teaching them to govern themselves; and then giving them their +independence; an Imperial Dream such as the world never heard of before; +a dream that, if it has done nothing else, has won for America the +undying friendship of the intelligent Filipino." + +"Right you are, man! But why such a thought at this ungodly hour? I +should think rather that you would be sending out an S. O. S." + +"Dunno! Just flashed over me that that was a dream worth dreaming; and, +by gad, boy, we're seeing it come to pass. Look at those contented +people living in peace and security; their home fires lighted; their +children in school; plenty to eat; not afraid that to-morrow morning +some Friar will sell their home from under them. No wonder they have +given their undying friendship to America!" + +He continued as we sped through the rain. + +"England and Germany sneered at America's dream. Such a dream of +friendship through serving its colony had never been born in any other +national soul from the Genesis of colonization up to this day, save in +the soul of America in the Philippines. We have set the ideals of the +world in many ways but never in a more marked way than this. + +"The Phoenicians were the first colonizers and they swept the +Mediterranean with a policy of exploitation and slavery which was +selfish and sordid. Then came Greece which had some such ideal of +colonization as America. Her ideal was, that colonies, like fruit from a +tree, when ripe, should fall off of the mother tree. Or the ideal of +Greece was that colonizing should come about like the swarming of bees." + +I nodded my head. He went on as we slashed through the muddy ways, "Rome +with her Imperial dream, her army to back it up, failed as have failed +both Germany and Japan; three nations with kindred ideals as to +colonization. + +"Venice was cruel, adventurous and rapacious in her colonizing policy on +the Black Sea and she left a record of exploitations which makes a black +blotch on the world's pages. + +"Modern colonization began with Spain in South America, Mexico and the +Philippines. Spain has nothing over which to boast in that record. The +Dutch in Java, the record of Belgium in the Congo; that of the +Portuguese in the Far East; the French in Africa; the English in India; +Germany in China and Africa, and Japan in Korea, have not been entirely +for the service of the subjected people, for all of these Governments +have gone on the fundamental theory that the colony exists for the +Mother States." + +He paused a moment as we made a cautious way around a big caribou. "Then +came the great dream of America that the Mother State exists for the +benefit of the colony. + +"Elihu Root said, 'We have declared a trust for the benefit of the +people of the Philippine Islands!' + +"President William McKinley said: The government is designed not for +exploitation nor for our own satisfaction, or for the expression of our +theoretical views, but for the happiness, peace and prosperity of the +people of the Philippine Islands.' + +"Ex-President Taft said when he was Governor-General of the Islands: The +chief difference between the English policy and treatment of tropical +peoples and ours, arises from the fact that we are seeking to prepare +them under our guidance for popular self-government. We are attempting +to do this, first by primary and secondary education offered freely to +the Filipino people.' + +"This spirit has won the undying friendship of the Filipino people. True +enough, they will finally want their independence. That is natural, but +there is a deep love for America buried in their hearts because America +has been square with them; has fulfilled her promises; has not +exploited them, but has served them. That is why I call the colonization +policy of America here in the Philippines a dream worth dreaming." My +friend was right. + +"We love America, because America is our friend!" said a humble +fisherman to me one day on the banks of the Pasig. + +"Yes, the United States; it is our own! You are our brothers!" said a +Filipino boy who had been educated in a Mission school. + +"We are no longer our own. We belong to America. You have bought us with +a price! It cost the blood of American soldiers to buy us!" said an old +Filipino, gray with years, but high in the councils of the Government. + + * * * * * + +One night on the Lunetta the Filipino Band was playing. It was a +beautiful evening with a sunset that lifted one into the very skies with +its bewildering glory and ecstasy. I had been sitting there, drinking in +the beautiful music made by the world-famous Constabulary Band, and +watching the quicksilver-like changing colors of the sunset. Then the +band started to play "The Star Spangled Banner." I was so lost in the +sunset and the music that I did not notice. + +I heard a sudden stirring. Brown bodies, half-naked Filipinos all about +me, had leapt to their feet at the playing of our national hymn. +Beautiful Filipino women in their dainty and delicately winged gowns, +bare brown shoulders heaving with pride and friendship, stood +reverently. Filipino soldiers all over the Lunetta stood at attention +facing the flag, the Stars and Stripes waving in the winds from the old +walled city. Side by side with American soldiers who had just returned +from Siberia stood Filipino Constabulary soldiers. Side by side with +well-dressed American children stood half-naked Filipino children at +reverent attention, paying a wholesome respect to the Stars and Stripes +as the old hymn swept across the Lunetta. + +"That is a thrilling thing to see!" I said to a friend. + +"It could not have happened ten years ago! M he replied. + +"Why?" + +"They did not trust us, and they did not love us. They had seen too much +of the selfish colonization policies of Spain. They expected the same +things from America. It did not come. They have been won to us!" + +This warm-hearted friendship is not true either of England's colonies +anywhere in the Orient or of Japan's in Formosa or Korea. It is true +alone in the Philippines. + + * * * * * + +While I was in the Philippines, down in San Fernando, a statue was +erected to a well-known rebel. He was a man who had refused to take the +oath of allegiance to America when we captured the islands. He escaped +and carried on a propaganda against us. But when he died and a request +was made that a statue be erected to his memory, the United States +granted this permission. + +At the dedication of this statue the Governor of this Province said that +he doubted if any nation on the face of the earth, save the United +States, would have permitted the erection of such a statue to a rebel +against that government. "That act will bind our hearts closer to the +heart of the United States!" he said in closing his address. The +thrilling thing about it all was, that his address was met with +prolonged cheering on the part of the thousands of Filipinos who had +gathered for the dedication. + +Another evidence of this beautiful friendship for America is the +painting which adorns the walls of one of the Government buildings in +Manila. It is called "The Welcome to America." It was purchased, paid +for and erected by Filipinos; erected in good will, with laughter in +their souls, and joy in their hearts. + +It was painted by Hidalgo in Paris in 1904. + +High colors; reds, browns, yellows, golds, blues, purples; tell its +story. It adorns the panel at the end of the Senate Chamber of the +Filipino Government. + +It has spirit in it and a great, deep sincerity. + +The central figure is a beautiful woman, symbolic of America. She comes +across the Pacific carrying the gifts of peace, prosperity, security and +love to her colony, the Philippines. + +She carries in one hand the American flag. At her side is Youth bearing +a Harp, symbol of the music that America brings into the souls of the +people whom she comes to serve. Singing angels hover about the scene. + +Above the central figure of America, on angel wings, is a Youth carrying +a lighted torch. To the left is a beautiful brown-skinned Filipino woman +with eyes uplifted to this torch. She bears within her ample bosom the +children of the islands. The torch is symbol of the fact that we are +handing on the light of our Christian civilization to the children of +our colonies. + +I visited this painting many times, but I never visited it that I did +not see many Filipinos, both young and old, standing before it, with +reverent eyes. + +I said to a high official of the Government, "Does that painting +represent the way you Filipinos feel to-day?" + +"Hidalgo has spoken for us. He has voiced our feelings well!" was the +reply. + + * * * * * + +This friendship for the United States is a thrilling thing found all +over the Far East. One finds it in Korea, as well as in the Philippines, +like a burning light of glory. Korea says, "America is our only hope! We +have always trusted and loved America!" + +One finds it like a silver stream running through the life of China. Dr. +Sun Yat Sen said to me in Shanghai: "America has always been China's +staunch friend! America we trust! America we love! America is our hope! +America is our model!" + +Mr. Tang Shao-yi said, "America's hands and those of America alone are +clean in her relations with China. This cannot be said of the other +nations." + +Then he told me a thrilling story of the Boxer Rebellion. He, with two +thousand Chinese, who were Government officials, were barricaded in a +compound behind the usual Chinese walls. The Boxers were firing on them +every day. They had run out of food. In fact, they were starving. + +But one morning a bright-faced American boy appeared at the gates of the +wall. He was admitted because he was an American. He asked to be taken +to Mr. Tang Shao-yi. + +"What do you most need?" this young American asked the rich Chinese +merchant. + +"We most need food," was the reply. + +"All right, I'll get enough for you to-day!" said the young American. + +"That night," said Mr. Tang Shao-yi, "that American boy returned with +five hundred hams which the Boxers had thrown away, in addition to a +thousand sacks of flour which he had gotten from the English legation." + +"Wonderful!" I exclaimed. + +"And that boyish American was----" + +"Who?" I asked with tense interest, for the old man was smiling with a +suggestive Oriental smile, as if he had a climax up his commodious +sleeves. + +"That man was Herbert Hoover!" + +And from that interview henceforth and forever no human being need tell +me that the Chinese have no sense of the dramatic. + +"That's why we love and trust America," said this great Chinese +statesman. "It is because America has always been our friend in time of +need!" + +I found this friendship for the United States true all over the Oriental +world. It was to me a great miracle of national friendship. The peoples +of the Orient trust us. They are not suspicious of our intentions in +spite of what jingo papers say. We have won their hearts. We have +claimed their friendship. + +The name "America," which stands in the Oriental mind for the United +States, is a sacred passport and password. It is a magical word. It +opens doors that are locked to all the rest of the world; it tears down +barriers, century-old, that have been barricading certain places for +ages past. That simple word opens hearts that would open with none +other. + +The eyes of the brown men of the Far East open wide at that word, and a +new light appears in them. This is particularly true in Korea, in China, +in the Malacca Straits, and in the Philippines. + +It is enough to bring a flood of tears to the heart of an American, +lonely for a sight of his own flag, homesick for his native shores, to +see and feel and hear and know the pulse of this friendship for our +country among millions of brown men. + +"It is because we are like you, we Chinese," said Tang Shao-yi. "It is +because we are both Democrats at heart!" + +"It is because you have been our true friends!" said Dr. Sun Yat Sen. + +"It is because your ideals are our ideals; your dreams our dreams and +your friends our friends," said Wu Ting-fang, one of China's greatest +leaders, to me. + +"It is because so many of our young men have been trained in your +American schools, and because so many of us feel that the United States +is our second home. It is because you have sent so many good men and +women to China to help us; to teach us; to live with us; to love us; to +serve us! It is because your missionaries from America have shown the +real heart of the United States to us!" said Mr. Walter Busch, a Chinese +American student who is now editor of the Peking _Leader_. + +But whatever the cause, the glorious fact is enough to: + + "Send a thrill of rapture through the framework of the heart + And warm the inner bein' till the tear drops want to start!" + +But perhaps the highest and holiest Flash-lights of Friendship that one +finds in the Far East is that of the friendship formed by the American +missionaries for the people among whom they are working, and the +friendship that these people give in return. These are holy things. + +The average missionary comes home on his furlough, but before he is home +three months he is homesick to go back to his people. So they come and +go across the seas of the world through the years, weaving like a great +Shuttle of Service the fabric of friendship for themselves and for the +United States. + +This shuttle of service is being woven night and day across the Atlantic +and across the Pacific by great ships bearing missionaries going and +coming; furlough following furlough, after six years of service; term +after term; leaving native land, children, memories; time after time +until death ends that particular thread, crimson, gold, brown or white. +The great Shuttle of Love weaves the fabric of friendship across the +seas as the ships come and go, bearing outbound and homebound +missionaries to foreign fields. + +I am thinking particularly of the Pacific as I write this sketch sitting +in a room overlooking the great harbor of Yokohama where three Japanese +warship lie anchored and two great Pacific liners, one on its way to San +Francisco and another bound for Vancouver. They come and go, these great +ships. A few days ago the _Empress of Asia_ made its twenty-eighth trip +across and it soon will start on its twenty-eighth trip back to +Vancouver again. Some of the ships out of San Francisco have made more +than a hundred trips. So they weave the shuttle back and forward across +this great sea. And never a ship sails this sea that it does not carry +its passenger list of missionaries. Our list was more than half a +hundred. + +As Mr. Forman, in a sympathetic and appreciative article that he has +written for the _Ladies' Home Journal_, says, the common phrase on a +Pacific liner is, "There are two hundred and fifty passengers and +forty-five missionaries on board." Every Pacific passenger list +immediately divides itself into two groups, the missionaries and the +other passengers. + +Then Mr. Forman proceeds to slay those shallow, narrow-minded, often +ignorant and uneducated tourists and business men who dare to speak of +this traveling missionary with derision. Mr. Forman has no particular +interest in missions and he has no particular interest in the Church, +but he started out to investigate this derogatory phrase, "and +forty-five missionaries." + +Mr. Forman starts his article with these striking paragraphs + + "If ever you cross the Pacific you will find the passengers on + the steamer quietly and automatically dividing themselves into + two groups. + + "'How many passengers have we on board?' you may lightly ask + your neighbor. + + "And your neighbor, traveled man no doubt (his twelfth + crossing, he will mention), will smartly reply, with a suave, + man-of-the-world smile: 'A hundred and two passengers and + forty-five missionaries.' + + "After that you will be initiated and you will be mentioning + with an easy grace to some one else that there are on board so + many passengers and so many missionaries. It becomes a part of + the jargon of Pacific crossing." + +But Mr. Forman sees working that Shuttle of Service of which I am +speaking. He sees, as any thinking man sees, as Roosevelt saw, as +Bryan saw, and as Taft saw, that the greatest single influence for +good in the Orient is the missionary. Mr. Forman was incensed at +this careless phrase on the Pacific liners, and he investigated the +work of our missionaries when he was in the Orient, and he came to +the decision that they are worth more to America, even from that +selfish standpoint, than all the ambassadors that we have sent +over, because they are, in their crossing and recrossing, weaving a +Fabric of Friendship between the Orient and the Occident; between +the nations of the East and those of the West; between the white +peoples and the brown peoples; in spite of the diplomatic +differences and yellow newspapers in the United States and Japan. + +Mr. Forman says about his conclusions: + + "I concluded that any one of the large missions in those + Oriental countries accomplished, so far as concerns American + standing and prestige, more than all our diplomatic + representation there put together. I do not believe it to be an + exaggeration to say that for the Orient the missionaries are + perhaps the only useful form of what is called diplomatic + representation." + +And again in the same article he says: + + "One good missionary in the right place, it seemed to me, can + accomplish more than quite a number of ambassadors." + +And again he wonderfully sums up that mission of love in a paragraph +which I think ought to be passed on: + + "But when a missionary establishes a clinic or a hospital, + healing sores and diseases that their own medicine men have + abandoned as hopeless; when he educates boys and girls that + otherwise would have remained in darkness; when, with a + whole-souled enthusiasm, he gives them counsel, aid and service + and he asks nothing in return then the stolid and passive + Chinese or Korean is genuinely impressed. Then America really + becomes in his mind the synonym for kindness and service, and + from mouth to mouth goes abroad the fame of the land that is + aiming to do him good, without any menacing background of + exploitation." + +I talked with one bright-faced, twinkling-eyed, red-blooded, big-framed +missionary who was crossing with his family of a wife and four children. +He had spent fifteen years in the Orient as a missionary, and then +because of illness he had been compelled to go to America. There he had +taken a church and had preached for five years. His health came back, +and as he told me, "The lure of the East got me and I had to come back. +I never was so happy in my life as I am on this trip and the whole +family feels the same way. We are going back to _our people_!" And the +way he pronounced those _italicised_ words made me know that he, too, +was weaving a thread in the Fabric of Friendship. + +We met a woman who was traveling back to China with her three darling +little tots. I made love to all three of them, and it wasn't long before +I asked one where her Daddy was. I assumed, of course, that they had +been home on a furlough and that Daddy was back there in China waiting +anxiously for them to return to him. I pictured that meeting, for I have +seen many such during war days, both on this side and in France. + +"My Daddy is dead," the child said simply with a quiver of her little +lips. + +"All right, dear baby, we won't talk about it then," for I was afraid +that those little trembling lips couldn't hold in much longer. But she +wanted to tell me about it. I soon saw that. She liked to talk about her +"dear dead Daddy." + +"He went to France," she said simply. + +"Ah, he was a soldier?" I questioned. + +"No, he was better than a soldier, my Mamma says. He did not go to kill; +he went to help." And back of that sentiment and that statement I saw a +world of struggle and ideals in a missionary home where the man felt +called across the seas to be "in it" with his country and at last the +refuge of the man who could go "not to kill but to help." + +"He went to work with the coolies and he got the influenza and died last +winter. We won't have any Daddy any more," and her little blue eyes were +misty with tears. And so were mine, more misty than I dared let her see. +And they are misty now as I write about it. And yours will be misty if +you read about it, as they should be. That is something fine in you +being called out. + +Later I met the mother. She told me over again the story that little +Doris had told me of the big Daddy who had felt the call to go to France +in the Y.M.C.A. to help the poor "coolies," several hundred of whom +were, by strange coincidence, going back to China on the same boat with +us, and with that brave mother and those dear children. These "coolies" +were going back alive, but he who went to serve them died. "Others he +saved; Himself he could not save," echoed in my soul as that mother and +I talked. + +"I am going back to the Chinese to spend the rest of my life finishing +Will's work. It is better so. I shall be happier." + +"But the association there--everything--every turn you make--every place +you go--will remind you of him," I protested. + +"It would be what Will would want most of all, that I go on with his +work. I go gladly. It will be the best balm for my sorrow." + +And far above national friendships there loom these snow-white peaks of +the sacrificial friendship the missionaries bear in their hearts for the +people with whom they live, and serve, and die. + + + + +THE END + + + + +TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: + + +Inconsistencies in hyphenation of words preserved. (flash-lights, +flashlights; foot-ball, football; star-lit, starlit; to-day, today; +to-night, tonight) + +Inconsistencies in the spelling and transliteration of non-English words +preserved. (Pyeng Yang, Pyengyang) + +Pg. 25, "bacon" changed to "beacon". (like beacon lights of hope) + +Pg. 26, inserted missing comma. (there to the north," I said) + +Pgs. 79, 101, 145, inserted opening double quote mark to start of direct +speech at top of chapter. + +Pg. 153, "flashng" changed to "flashing" (like flashing piston rods of +steel) + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Flash-lights from the Seven Seas, by +William L. 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