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diff --git a/26844.txt b/26844.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f2fed32 --- /dev/null +++ b/26844.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7387 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Borneo and the Indian Archipelago, by Frank S. Marryat + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Borneo and the Indian Archipelago + with drawings of costume and scenery + +Author: Frank S. Marryat + +Release Date: October 8, 2008 [EBook #26844] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BORNEO AND THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO *** + + + + +Produced by Ronald Lee + + + + + + + + +BORNEO + +AND + +THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. + +London: +SPOTTISWOODE AND SHAW, +New-street Square. + + +[Illustration: CHINESE JOSS HOUSE. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + + +[Illustration: (Transcriber's Note: No caption in original +text--Picture shows a Bornean ship with the book title, author's +name and publisher printed on the sails and hull.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS] + + + + +BORNEO + +AND + +THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. + +WITH + +DRAWINGS OF COSTUME AND SCENERY. + + +BY + + +FRANK S. MARRYAT, + +LATE MIDSHIPMAN OF H. M. S. SAMARANG, +SURVEYING VESSEL. + + + + +LONDON: +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS, +PATERNOSTER-ROW. +1848. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +I wish the readers of these pages to understand that it has been with +no desire to appear before the public as an author that I have +published this Narrative of the Proceedings of Her Majesty's ship +Samarang during her last Surveying Cruise. + +During the time that I was in the ship, I made a large collection of +drawings, representing, I hope faithfully, the costumes of the natives +and the scenery of a country so new to Europeans. They were considered, +on my return, as worthy to be presented to the public, as being more +voluminous and more characteristic than drawings made in haste usually +are. + +I may here observe, that it has been a great error on the part of the +Admiralty, considering the great expense incurred in fitting out +vessels for survey, that a little additional outlay is not made in +supplying every vessel with a professional draughtsman, as was +invariably the case in the first vessels sent out on discovery. The +duties of officers in surveying vessels are much too fatiguing and +severe to allow them the time to make anything but hasty sketches, and +they require that practice with the pencil without which natural talent +is of little avail; the consequence is, that the engravings, which have +appeared in too many of the Narratives of Journeys and Expeditions, +give not only an imperfect, but even an erroneous, idea of what they +would describe. + +A hasty pencil sketch, from an unpractised hand, is made over to an +artist to reduce to proportion; from him it passes over to the hand of +an engraver, and an interesting plate is produced by their joint +labours. But, in this making up, the character and features of the +individual are lost, or the scenery is composed of foliage not +indigenous to the country, but introduced by the artist to make a good +picture. + +In describing people and countries hitherto unknown, no description +given by the pen will equal one correct drawing. How far I may have +succeeded must be decided by those who have, with me, visited the same +places and mixed with the people delineated. How I found time to +complete the drawings is explained by my not doing any duty on board at +one time, and at another by my having been discharged into the +hospital-ship at Hong Kong. + +It was my intention to have published these drawings without +letter-press, but in this I have been overruled. I have therefore been +compelled to have recourse to my own private journal, which certainly +was never intended for publication. As I proceeded, I found that, as I +was not on board during the whole of the time, it would be better, and +make the work more perfect, if I published the whole of the cruise, +which I could easily do by referring to the journals of my messmates. + +I would gladly mention their names, and publicly acknowledge their +assistance; but, all things considered, I think it as well to withhold +them, and I take this opportunity of thanking them for their kindness. + +FRANK S. MARRYAT. + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + +LITHOGRAPHIC PLATES. + +Chinese Joss House _Frontispiece_ + +Bornese Vessel _Title-page_ + +Loondoo Dyak _To face page_ 5 + +River Sarawak and Town +of Kuchin 6 + +Keeney-Ballo 59 + +Serebis Dyak 79 + +Saghai Dyak 80 + +War Dance of the Dyaks 85 + +Malay Chief (Sooloo) 101 + +Bruni 106 + +Court of the Sultan of Borneo 109 + +West Point, Hong Kong 142 + +View on the Island of Poo-too 151 + +Chinese Joss House at Ningpo 156 + +Quelpartians 182 + +Mandarin of Quelpart (Corea) 183 + +Japanese 185 + +Natives of Luzon (Philippines) 199 + +View in Samboangan 201 + +Illanoan Pirate 207 + +Dusum 210 + +Port Louis 220 + + +WOODCUTS. + +Mr. Brooke's House 7 + +Dyak Head 13 + +Malays of Kuchin 23 + +Native of Batan 27 + +Native of Pa-tchu-san 31 + +Sooloo Village 42 + +Native Boat--Borneo 63 + +Dyak War Prahu 64 + +Dyak Women in Canoe 74 + +Teeth of Dyaks 79 + +Costumes of Dyak Women 80 + +Sum-pi-tan--Blow-pipe, +with poisoned Arrows 80 + +Dyak Village 82 + +Obtaining Fire 89 + +View of Sincapore 93 + +Malay Woman 100 + +Proboscis Monkey 103 + +Natives of Bruni 108 + +City of Manilla 121 + +Procession of the Sultan of +Gonong Tabor 133 + +Ears of Dyaks at Gonong Tabor 135 + +Portrait of Mahomed Pullulu, +Sultan of Sooloo 139 + +Tanka Boats--Hong Kong 141 + +Chinese Fishermen 145 + +Cook's Shop 146 + +Pagoda--Ningpo 154 + +Tanka Boat Women 165 + +Man-of-War Junk 168 + +Trading Junks 169 + +Japanese Boat 184 + +Salt Smugglers 193 + +Spanish Galleon 196 + +Water Carriers--Manilla 199 + +Illanoan Pirates 208 + +Natives of N. E. Coast of Borneo 210 + +Convict 215 + +Kling Woman 216 + + + + +BORNEO + +AND + +THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. + + +On the 25th of January, 1843, H. M. S. Samarang, being completely +equipped, went out of Portsmouth harbour and anchored at Spithead. The +crew were paid advanced wages; and, five minutes after the money had +been put into their hats at the pay-table, it was all most dexterously +transferred to the pockets of their wives, whose regard and affection +for their husbands at this peculiar time was most exemplary. On the +following day, the crew of the Samarang made sail with full hearts and +empty pockets. + +On the 25th February, sighted Fuerto Ventura: when off this island, the +man at the mast-head reported a wreck in sight, which, as we neared it, +appeared to be the wreck of a brig. Strange to say, the captain +recognised it as an old acquaintance, which he had seen off Cape +Finisterre on his return from China in the Sulphur. If this was not a +mistake, it would be evidence of a southerly current in this quarter of +the Atlantic. This may be, but I do not consider the proof to be +sufficient to warrant the fact; although it may lead to the +supposition. If this was the wreck seen at such a long interval by the +captain, a succession of northerly winds and gales might have driven it +down so far to the southward without the assistance of any current. It +is well known that the great current of the Atlantic, the gulf stream +(which is occasioned by the waters, being forced by the continuous trade +winds into the Gulf of Mexico, finding a vent to the northward by the +coast of America, from thence towards Newfoundland, and then in a more +easterly direction), loses its force, and is expended to the northward +of the Western Islands; and this is the cause why so many rocks have +been yearly reported to have been fallen in with in this latitude. +Wrecks, all over the Atlantic, which have been water-logged but do not +sink, are borne by the various winds and currents until they get into +the gulf stream, which sweeps them along in its course until they arrive +to where its force is expended, and there they remain comparatively +stationary. By this time, probably, years have passed, and they are +covered with sea-weeds and barnacles, and, floating three or four feet +out of the water, have every appearance of rocks; and, indeed, if run +upon on a dark night, prove nearly as fatal. + +March 3rd.--Anchored off the town of Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago, in +nine fathoms. Porto Praya is a miserable town, built on a most unhealthy +spot, there being an extensive marsh behind it, which, from its miasma, +creates a great mortality among the inhabitants. The consul is a native +of Bona Vista: two English consuls having fallen victims to the climate +in quick succession, no one was found very willing to succeed to such a +certain provision from the Foreign Office. The interior of the island +is, however, very different from what would be expected from the sight +of Porto Praya. Some of the officers paid a visit to the valley of St. +Domingo, which they described as a perfect paradise, luxuriant with +every tropical fruit. Porto Praya is renowned for very large sharks. I +was informed by a captain in Her Majesty's service, that once, when he +anchored at Porto Praya, he had left the ship to go on shore in one of +the twenty-two-foot gigs, not unaptly nick-named coffins in the service. +He had not pulled more than a cable's length from the ship, when a +shark, nearly as long as the gig, came up swimming with great velocity +after them; and as he passed, the animal shouldered the boat, so as +nearly to upset it: as it was, the boat took in the water over the +gunwale. As the animal appeared preparing for another attack, the +captain thought it advisable to pull alongside, and go on shore in the +cutter instead of his own boat; and on this large boat the shark did not +make a second attempt. + +April 25th.--Anchored in Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope. Sailed again on +the 7th of May, and fell in with a favourable wind; and too much of it. +For six days we were scudding before it under a close-reefed +main-topsail and fore-staysail. On the 10th we lost one of the best men +in the ship, the sailmaker, Charles Downing, who fell overboard; the +ship was rounded to, the life-buoy let go, but we saw nothing of him. +June 7th saw Christmas Islands, and on the same afternoon the land of +Java. On the 11th we arrived off the town of Anger, in company with a +fleet of merchant vessels of all nations and of all rigs. Having been so +long without a fresh meal, we were not sorry to find ourselves +surrounded by boats loaded with fish, fruit, and vegetables; we ate +enormously, and they made us pay in proportion. + +On the 19th we arrived at Sincapore, and found the roads very gay with +vessels of all descriptions, from the gallant free trader of 1000 tons +to the Chinese junk. As Sincapore, as well as many other places, was +more than once visited, I shall defer my description for the present. On +June the 27th we weighed and made sail for the river of Sarawak +(Borneo), to pay a visit to Mr. Brooke, who resides at Kuchin, a town +situated on that river. + +The public have already been introduced to Mr. Brooke in the volumes +published by Captain Henry Keppel. Mr. Brooke is a gentleman of +independent fortune, who was formerly in the service of the Company. The +usefulness and philanthropy of his public career are well known: if the +private history which induced him to quit the service, and afterwards +expatriate himself, could with propriety, and also regard to Mr. +Brooke's feelings, be made known, it would redound still more to his +honour and his high principle; but these I have no right to make public. +Mr. Brooke, having made up his mind to the high task of civilising a +barbarous people, and by every means in his power of putting an end to +the wholesale annual murders committed by a nation of pirates, whose +hands were, like Ishmael's, against every man, sailed from England in +his yacht, the Royalist schooner, with a crew of picked and tried men, +and proceeded to Sarawak, where he found the rajah, Muda Hassein, the +uncle to the reigning sultan of Borneo, engaged in putting down the +insurrection of various chiefs of the neighbouring territory. Mr. +Brooke, with his small force, gave his assistance to the rajah; and +through his efforts, and those of his well-armed band, the refractory +chiefs were reduced to obedience. Willing to retain such a powerful +ally, and partial to the English, the rajah made Mr. Brooke most +splendid promises to induce him to remain; but the rajah, like all +Asiatics, did not fulfil the performance of these promises until after +much delay and vexation to Mr. Brooke, who required all the courage and +patience with which he is so eminently gifted, before he could obtain +his ends. At last he was successful: Muda Hassein made over to him a +large tract of land, over which he was constituted rajah, and Mr. Brooke +took up his residence at Kuchin; and this grant was ultimately confirmed +by the seal of the sultan of Borneo. Such, in few words, is the history +of Mr. Brooke: if the reader should wish for a more detailed account, I +must refer him to Capt. Henry Keppel's work, in which is published a +great portion of Mr. Brooke's own private memoranda. + +[Illustration: LOONDOO DYAK. + +(N. W. COAST OF BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +On the morning of the 29th June we saw the high land of Borneo, but for +several days were unsuccessful in discovering the mouth of the river. On +the night of July the 4th we anchored off the entrance of a river, which +the captain supposed to be the Sarawak. The next morning the two barges, +well armed, were sent up the river to obtain information. After pulling +with the stream six or eight miles, they discovered a small canoe, +which, on their approach, retreated up the river with great speed. Mr. +Heard, the officer in charge of the boats, had taken the precaution, as +he ascended the river, of cutting a palm branch for each boat, and these +were now displayed at the bows as a sign of peaceable intentions. + +These universal tokens of amity reassured the natives, who, seeing them, +now turned the bows of their canoes, and paddled towards the boats. The +canoe contained four men, almost in a state of nudity, their only +covering consisting of a narrow slip of cotton fastened round the +middle. They were copper-coloured, and extremely ugly: their hair jet +black, very long, and falling down the back; eyes were also black, and +deeply sunk in the head, giving a vindictive appearance to the +countenance; nose flattened; mouth very large; the lips of a bright +vermilion, from the chewing of the betel-nut; and, to add to their +ugliness, their teeth black, and filed to sharp points. Such is the +personal appearance of a Loondoo Dyak. + +They informed us that the river we were then in was the Loondoo, and +that the Sarawak was some distance to the eastward. They also gave us +the information that the boats of the Dido had been engaged with +pirates, and had been successful, having captured one prahu and sunk +another. After great persuasion, we induced one of them to accompany us +to the ship, and pilot her to the Sarawak. + +The same evening we weighed anchor, and stood towards a remarkable +promontory (Tangong Sipang), to the eastward of which is the principal +entrance of the Sarawak river; a second, but less safe, entrance being +within a mile of the promontory. Light and variable winds prevented our +arrival at the mouth of the river until the evening of the following +day. From thence, after two days' incessant kedging and towing, we +anchored off the town of Kuchin, on the morning of the 8th instant. The +town of Kuchin is built on the left-hand side of the river Sarawak going +up; and, from the windings of the river, you have to pull twenty-five +miles up the river to arrive at it, whereas it is only five miles from +the coast as the crow flies. It consists of about 800 houses, built on +piles driven into the ground, the sides and roofs being enclosed with +dried palm leaves. Strips of bamboo are laid across, which serve as a +floor. In fact, there is little difference between these houses and +those built by the Burmahs and other tribes in whose countries bamboo +and ratan are plentiful. The houses of Mr. Brooke and the rajah are much +superior to any others, having the advantage and comfort of wooden sides +and floorings. We visited the rajah several times, who invariably +received us with urbanity, and entertained us in a very hospitable +manner. Muda Hassein is a man about fifty years of age,--some think +more,--of low stature, as are most of the Malays, well made, and with a +very prepossessing countenance for a Malay. His brother, Budruden, is a +much finer man, very agreeable, and very partial to the English. The +Malays profess Mahomedanism; but Budruden in many points followed +European customs, both in dress and drinking wine. + +[Illustration: RIVER SARAWACK AND TOWN OF KUCHIN. + +(BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The residence of Mr. Brooke is on the side of the river opposite to the +town, as, for the most part, are all the houses of the Europeans. In +structure it somewhat resembles a Swiss cottage, and is erected upon a +green mound, which slopes down to the river's bank, where there is a +landing-place for boats. At the back of the house is a garden, +containing almost every tree peculiar to the climate; and it was a +novelty to us to see collected together the cotton-tree, the areca, +sago, palm, &c., with every variety of the Camellia japonica in a state +of most luxurious wildness. + +[Illustration: MR. BROOKE'S HOUSE.] + +The establishment consists of six Europeans, and the house contains one +large receiving-room, and several smaller ones, appropriated to the +residents as sleeping apartments, besides Mr. Brooke's own private +rooms. The large room is decorated with rifles, swords, and other +instruments of warfare, European and native; and it is in this room that +the European rajah gives his audiences: and it is also in this room that +every day, at five o'clock, a capital dinner is served up, to which we +were made heartily welcome. During our stay, Mr. Brooke, accompanied by +several of our officers and some of the residents, made an excursion up +the river. We started early in the morning, with a flowing tide; and, +rapidly sweeping past the suburbs of the town, which extend some +distance up the river, we found ourselves gliding through most +interesting scenery. On either side, the river was bounded by gloomy +forests, whose trees feathered down to the river's bank, the water +reflecting their shadows with peculiar distinctness. Occasionally the +scene was diversified by a cleared spot amidst this wilderness, where, +perchance, a half-ruined hut, apparently not inhabited for years, the +remains of a canoe, together with fragments of household utensils, were +to be seen, proving that once it had been the abode of those who had +been cut off by some native attack, and probably the heads of its former +occupants were now hanging up in some skull-house belonging to another +tribe. The trees were literally alive with monkeys and squirrels, which +quickly decamped as we approached them. Several times we were startled +by the sudden plunge of the alligators into the water, close to the +boats, and of whose propinquity we were not aware until they made the +plunge. All these rivers are infested with alligators, and I believe +they are very often mischievous; at all events, one of our youngsters +was continually in a small canoe, paddling about, and the natives +cautioned us that if he was not careful he certainly would be taken by +one of these animals. + +Early in the afternoon we disembarked at a Chinese village twenty-five +miles from Kuchin. The inhabitants of this village work the gold and +antimony mines belonging to Mr. Brooke. We remained there for the +night, and the next morning proceeded further up the river, and landed +at another village, where we breakfasted, and then proceeded on foot to +visit the mines. Our path lay through dense forests of gigantic trees, +whose branches met and interlaced overhead, shading us from the burning +rays of the sun. At times we would emerge from the wood, and find +ourselves passing through cultivated patches of ravines, enclosed on all +sides by lofty mountains, covered with foliage. In these spots we found +a few natives with their families, who seemed to be contented in their +perfect isolation; for in these secluded spots generations may pass +away, and know no world beyond their own confines of forest jungle. At +times our route was over mountains, whose appearance was so formidable +that our hearts almost failed us at the prospect of having to scale +them; but we succeeded beyond our expectations, and at length arrived at +the antimony village, not a little pleased at our labours being ended. +Our spirits, which had been flagging, were revived by a pull at the +bottle. From our resting-place we had a good view of the mine, which is +a source of great profit to Mr. Brooke. The antimony is obtained from +the side of a hill, the whole of which is supposed to be formed of this +valuable mineral. The side at which the men are at work shines like +silver during the day, and may be seen several miles distant, strangely +contrasting with the dark foliage of the adjoining jungles. The ore is +conveyed to Kuchin, and is there shipped on board of the Royalist, (Mr. +Brooke's schooner yacht,) and taken to Sincapore, where it is eagerly +purchased by the merchants, and shipped for England. + +After partaking of a little refreshment we set off, through woods and +over mountains, as before, to visit the gold mine. On our arrival at +every village on the road, a certain number of guns were fired by the +natives, in honour of the European rajah; and the same ceremony was +repeated when we left it. It was late in the afternoon before we +arrived at the village attached to the gold mine. It is prettily +situated in the depth of a valley, through which runs a small rivulet. + +On every side mountains soar into the clouds, which must be passed +before you can reach the village. Dinner had been prepared for us by the +inhabitants of the village, who were a colony of Chinese; and it was +served up in a large building dedicated to Joss, whose shrine was +brilliantly illuminated with candles and joss-sticks. Some of the +officers unthinkingly lighted their cigars at the altar. The Chinese, +observing it, requested very civilly that they would do so no more; a +request which was, of course, complied with. After dinner we all +proceeded to the rivulet, in search of gold; the natives had cleared out +the bed of the river; the sand and stones were thrown into an artificial +sluice for washing it; and a little gold was found by some of the party. +This gold mine, if it may be so called, is worth to Mr. Brooke about +1000l. per annum, after all the expenses are paid. Its real value is +much greater; but the Chinese conceal a great quantity, and appropriate +it to themselves. But if the particles of gold which are brought down by +a small rivulet are of such value, what may be the value of the mines +above, in the mountains as yet untrodden by human feet? This, it is to +be hoped, enterprise will some day reveal. + +We remained at the village that night, and at daylight commenced our +journey back to the village from which we had started the day before. +There we embarked, and proceeded down the river to the first Chinese +village, at which we arrived in the course of the afternoon. A short +distance inland is a mountain, called Sarambo, which it was proposed to +ascend, as, by our telescopes, we could perceive houses near to its +summit, and were told it was the residence of some of the mountain Dyaks +under Mr. Brooke's sway. From the village this mountain wore the +appearance of a huge sugar-loaf, and its sides appeared inaccessible. +Mr. Brooke, with his usual kindness, gave his consent, and despatched a +messenger to the Dyak village, requesting the chief to send a party down +by daylight the next morning, to convey our luggage up the mountain. At +day-dawn we were awakened by a confused noise outside of the house, and, +looking out, we perceived that more than a score of these mountain Dyaks +had arrived. Most of them had nothing on but the usual strip of cotton; +some few had on red baize jackets. They all wore a peculiar kind of +_kris_, and many had spears, sampitans, and shields. They were +fine-limbed men, with muscles strongly developed. Their hair fell down +their backs, and nearly reached their middle: it was prevented from +falling over the face by a fillet of grass, which was ornamented with +mountain flowers. + +After a hurried breakfast we set off for the foot of the mountain, our +party amounting to about eighty people. The guides led the way, followed +by the Europeans; and the Dyaks, with the luggage, brought up the rear. +In this order we commenced the ascent. Each person was provided with a +bamboo, which was found indispensable; and thus, like a party of +pilgrims, we proceeded on our way; and before we had gone very far, we +discovered that we were subjected to severe penance. The mountain was +nearly perpendicular. In some places we had to ascend by a single piece +of wood, with rough notches for the feet, resting against a rock twenty +or thirty feet above our heads; and on either side was a precipice, so +that a false step must have been certain death. In other places a single +piece of bamboo was thrown over a frightful chasm, by way of bridge. +This, with a slight bamboo rail for the hand, was all that we had to +trust to. The careful manner in which we passed these dangers was a +source of great laughter and amusement to the Dyaks who followed us. +Accustomed from infancy to tread these dangerous paths, although heavily +laden, they scorned to support themselves. Some of our party were nearly +exhausted, and a long way in the rear before we came to the village. We +had to wait for their coming up, and threw ourselves under the shade of +some huge trees, that we might contemplate the bird's-eye view beneath. +It was a sight which must be seen to be appreciated. Almost as far as +the eye could reach was one immense wooded plain, bounded by lofty +mountains in the far distance, whose tops pierced the clouds. The rivers +appeared like silver threads, running through the jungles; now breaking +off, and then regained. At our feet lay the village we had started from, +the houses of which appeared like mere points. Shakspeare Cliff was as +nothing to it, and his beautiful lines would have fallen very short of +the mark; and while we gazed, suddenly a cloud below us would pass +between us and the view, and all would be hidden from the sight. Thus we +were far above the clouds, and then the clouds would break, and open, +and pass and repass over each other, until, like the dissolving views, +all was clear again, although the landscape was not changed. It was +towards noon before we saw the first mountain village, which we did not +immediately enter, as we waited the arrival of the laggards: we stopped, +therefore, at a spring of cold water, and enjoyed a refreshing wash. +Here we fell in with some pretty Dyak girls, very scantily clothed, who +were throwing water at each other in sport. We soon came in for a +plentiful share, which we returned with interest; and in this amusing +combat we passed half an hour, until all had joined the party. We then +entered the village, which was situated in a grove of trees. The houses +were built upon posts, as those down by the river side. They were +immensely large, with a bamboo platform running the whole length of the +building, and divided into many compartments, in each of which a Dyak +family resides. We were escorted, through a crowd of wondering Dyaks, to +a house in the centre of the village, which was very different in +construction from the others. It was perfectly round, and well +ventilated by numerous port-holes in the roof, which was pointed. We +ascended to the room above by means of a rough ladder, and when we +entered we were rather taken aback at finding that we were in the Head +House, as it is termed, and that the beams were lined with human heads, +all hanging by a small line passed through the top of the skull. They +were painted in the most fantastic and hideous manner; pieces of wood, +painted to imitate the eyes, were inserted into the sockets, and added +not a little to their ghastly grinning appearance. The strangest part of +the story, and which added very much to the effect of the scene, was, +that these skulls were perpetually moving to and fro, and knocking +against, each other. This, I presume, was occasioned by the different +currents of air blowing in at the port-holes cut in the roof; but what +with their continual motion, their nodding their chins when they hit +each other, and their grinning teeth, they really appeared to be endowed +with new life, and were a very merry set of fellows. However, whatever +might be the first impression occasioned by this very unusual sight, it +very soon wore off, and we amused ourselves with those motions which +were "not life," as Byron says; and, in the course of the day, succeeded +in making a very excellent dinner in company with these gentlemen, +although we were none of us sufficiently Don Giovannis to invite our +friends above to supper. We visited three villages on the Sarambo +mountain. Each of these villages was governed by a chief of its own, but +they were subordinate to the great chief, residing in the first village. + +[Illustration: DYAK HEAD.] + +In the evening the major portion of the population came to the Head +House, to exhibit to us their national dances. The music was composed of +two gongs and two large bamboo drums. The men stood up first, in war +costume, brandishing their spears and shields, and throwing themselves +into the most extraordinary attitudes, as they cut with their knives at +some imaginary enemy; at the same time uttering the most unearthly +yells, in which the Dyak spectators joined, apparently highly delighted +with the exhibition. The women then came forward, and went through a +very unmeaning kind of dance, keeping time with their hands and feet; +but still it was rather a relief after the noise and yelling from which +we had just suffered. The chief, Macuta, expressing a wish to see a +specimen of our dancing, not to let them suppose we were not as warlike +as themselves, two of the gig's boat's crew stood up, and went through +the evolutions of the broad-sword exercise in a very creditable manner. +After this performance one of the seamen danced the sailor's hornpipe, +which brought forth a torrent of yells instead of bravos, but they +certainly meant the same thing. By this time, the heat from a large +fire, with the smell of humanity in so crowded a room, became so +overpowering, that I was glad to leave the Head House to get a little +fresh air, and my ears relieved from the dinning of the drums and gongs. +It was a beautiful starry night, and, strolling through the village, I +soon made acquaintance with a native Dyak, who requested me to enter his +house. He introduced me to his family, consisting of several fine girls +and a young lad. The former were naked from the shoulders to below the +breasts, where a pair of stays, composed of several circles of +whalebone, with brass fastenings, were secured round their waists; and +to the stays was attached a cotton petticoat, reaching to below their +knees. This was the whole of their attire. They were much shorter than +European women, but well made; very interesting in their appearance, and +affable and friendly in their manners. Their eyes were dark and +piercing, and I may say there was something wicked in their furtive +glances; their noses were but slightly flattened; the mouth rather +large; but when I beheld the magnificent teeth which required all its +size to display, I thought this rather an advantage. Their hair was +superlatively beautiful, and would have been envied by many a courtly +dame. It was jet black, and of the finest texture, and hung in graceful +masses down the back, nearly reaching to the ground. A mountain Dyak +girl, if not a beauty, has many most beautiful points; and, at all +events, is very interesting and, I may say, pretty. They have good eyes, +good teeth, and good hair;--more than good: I may say splendid;--and +they have good manners, and know how to make use of their eyes. I shall, +therefore, leave my readers to form their own estimates by my +description. Expecting to meet some natives in my ramble, I had filled +my pockets with ship's biscuit, and which I now distributed among the +ladies, who appeared very grateful, as they rewarded me, while they +munched it, by darting wicked glances from their laughing eyes. + +Observing that the lad wore a necklace of human teeth round his neck, +his father explained to me, in pantomime, that they were the teeth of an +enemy whom he slew in battle, and whose head was now in the Head House. + +As it was getting late I bade my new friends farewell, by shaking hands +all round. The girls laughed immoderately at this way of bidding +good-bye, which, of course, was to them quite novel. I regretted +afterwards that I had not attempted the more agreeable way of bidding +ladies farewell, which, I presume, they would have understood better; as +I believe kissing is an universal language, perfectly understood from +the equator to the pole. + +At daylight the next morning we descended the mountain, and, embarking +in the boats, arrived at the ship late in the afternoon. + +While at Sarawak we witnessed a very strange ceremony. Hearing a great +noise in a house, we entered, and found ourselves in a large room +crowded to excess by a numerous assemblage, singing in any thing but +harmony. They proved to be natives of Java, assembled for the purpose of +celebrating one of their festivals. On our entrance into the house, we +were literally covered by the inmates with perfumes of the most +delightful fragrance. Some of these odours were in a liquid state, and +were poured down our backs, or upon our heads; others were in a state of +powder, with which we were plentifully besprinkled. We were then +escorted into the centre of the room, where we found a circle of elderly +men, who were reading portions of their sacred books, and their voices +were accompanied by music from instruments of native manufacture. We +were treated with great attention, being permitted to enter the circle +of the elders, who ordered the attendants to hand us refreshments, which +consisted of cakes made of rice and cocoa-nut oil, and Sam-schoo. Some +of our party, having become slightly elevated, volunteered a song, which +proposition was opposed by the more reasonable. The Javanese were +appealed to by the former, and they gave their votes in favour of the +song. It was accordingly sung by our whole party, much to the delight of +our kind entertainers, who, no doubt, considered that we felt and +appreciated their rites. At length we took our leave, well pleased with +our novel entertainment. So well did we succeed in making ourselves +agreeable, that we received an invitation for the following night. + +July 10th.--In the evening a display of fireworks took place, notice of +which had been given to the rajah, and, indeed, to the whole population +of Kuchin, who had all assembled near to the ship, to witness what they +considered a most wonderful sight. Seamen were stationed at all the +yard-arms, flying jib, and driver booms, with blue-lights, which were +fired simultaneously with the discharge of a dozen rockets, and the +great gun of a royal salute. The echoes reverberated for at least a +minute after the last gun of the salute had been fired; and, judging by +the yells of the natives, the display must have created a strong +sensation. Immediately after the salute, the anchor was weighed, and we +commenced dropping down the river with the ebb tide; but we soon +grounded on the mud, and we remained all night with the bowsprit in the +bushes which grow on the banks of the river. + +The ship floated the next morning; the anchor was weighed, and with the +assistance of the ebb tide, we dropped down the river at the rate of +five miles per hour. As we were nearing a cluster of dangerous rocks, +about a mile below Kuchin, we found that the ship was at the mercy of +the rapid tide; and, notwithstanding all our endeavours, the ship struck +on the rocks. Anchors were immediately laid out, but to no effect: the +water rapidly shallowed, and we gave up all thoughts of getting off +until the next flood tide. As the water left the ship, she fell over to +starboard, and, an hour after she had grounded, she listed to starboard +25 degrees. Our position was now becoming critical: the main deck ports +had been shipped some time previous, but this precaution did not prevent +the water from gaining entrance on the main and lower decks. As she +still continued to heel over to starboard, a hawser was taken on shore, +and, by purchases, set taut to the mast head; but before this could be +accomplished she had filled so much that it proved useless. + +A boat was now despatched to Kuchin, to acquaint Mr. Brooke with our +disaster, and to request the assistance of the native boats. During the +absence of the boats, the top-gallant-masts had been sent down, and +topmasts lowered; but the ship was now careening over 46 degrees, and +full of water. All hopes of getting her off were therefore, for the +present, abandoned; and we commenced removing every thing that could be +taken out of her in the boats. The surveying instruments and other +valuables, were sent up to Kuchin in the gig; and afterwards every thing +that could be obtained from the ship was brought up in the native boats, +as well as the whole crew of the Samarang. Mr. Brooke insisted upon all +the officers making a temporary abode at his house, and prepared a shed +for the crew. An excellent dinner was laid before the officers, while a +substantial mess of fowls and rice was served out to the crew. In fact, +the kindness of Mr. Brooke was beyond all bounds. The gentlemen who +resided with him, as well as himself, provided us with clothes from +their own wardrobes, and during our protracted stay did all in their +power to make us comfortable; indeed, I may safely say, that we were so +happy and comfortable, that there were but very few of the officers and +crew of the Samarang that ever wished to see her afloat again. But I +must return to my narrative. + +The morning after our disaster we went down to the ship, and commenced +recovering provisions and stores, sending down masts and yards, and +every other article deemed necessary; and this was continued for several +days: during which the midshipmen, petty officers, and seamen were +removed to the opposite shore, where two houses had been, by Mr. Brooke, +prepared for their reception. Our house, (the midshipmen's) we +christened Cockpit Hall; it was very romantically situate in the middle +of a plantation of cocoa nut, palm, banana, and plantain trees. It was +separated from the house in which the seamen were barracked by a small +kind of jungle, not more than 300 yards in extent, but so intricate that +we constantly lost our way in it, and had to shout and receive an +answer, or go back and take a fresh departure. Our garden, in which +there was a delightful spring of cold water, extended on a gentle slope +about a hundred yards in front of the house, where its base was watered +by a branch of the Sarawak; in which we refreshed ourselves by bathing +morning and evening, in spite of the numerous alligators and water +snakes with which the river abounds. But our incautious gambols received +a check. Two of our party agreed to proceed to the mouth of the branch I +have mentioned, to determine which could return with the greatest +speed. They had commenced their swimming race, when we, who stood ashore +as umpires, observed an enormous water snake, with head erect, making +for the two swimmers. We cried out to them to hasten on shore, which +they did; while we kept up a rapid discharge of stones at the head of +the brute, who was at last driven off in another direction. This +incident induced us to be more cautious, and to keep within safe +boundary for the future. + +Our repose at Cockpit Hall was, however, much disturbed by the nightly +visits of wild hogs, porcupines, wild cats, guanos, and various other +animals, some of which made dreadful noises. When they paid us their +visits, we all turned out, and, armed with muskets, commenced an assault +upon them, which soon caused them to evacuate our domain; but similar +success did not attend our endeavours to dislodge the swarms of +musquitos, scorpions, lizards, and centipedes from our habitations. They +secreted themselves in the thatch, and the sides of the house during the +day, and failed not to disturb with their onslaughts during the whole of +the night. + +July 22d.--Mr. Hooper, the purser, was despatched in the Royalist to +Sincapore, to purchase provisions and obtain assistance from any of the +men-of-war who might be lying in the roads. + +It is not necessary to enter into a minute detail of the service which +we were now employed upon. It certainly was not a service of love, as we +had to raise a ship which we hoped would remain where she was. To enter +into particulars, technical terms must be resorted to, which would only +puzzle the reader. The position of the Samarang was simply this: she lay +on a rock, and had filled by careening over; as long as she was on her +side, the water rose and fell in her with the flood and ebb of the tide; +but if once we could get her on an even keel, as soon as the water left +her with the ebb of the tide, all we had to do was to pump her out, and +then she would float again. To effect this, we had to lighten her as +much as possible, by taking out of her her guns and stores of every +description; then to get purchases on her from the shore, and assist the +purchases with rafts under her bilge, so as to raise her again upon an +even keel. On the second day after she filled, when the tide had run +out, we removed all our chests from the lower deck; most of them were +broken, and a large proportion of the contents missing. On the 27th May +every thing had been prepared, and the attempt to get the vessel on an +even keel was made, and it proved successful, as it well might with the +variety of purchases, and the force of men we had at our disposition. +When we repaired to the ship with 100 Malays to man the purchase-falls, +the tide was ebbing fast, and the pumps were immediately set to work; so +that at midnight, when the tide commenced flowing, the ship was nearly +free of water. The purchases were then manned, and with the assistance +of the rafts the ship gradually righted. The following day, about +half-past two in the morning, the ship was free of water, and had risen +to a careen of 30 deg.; at 3 o'clock she floated into deep water, and was +then anchored. During the forenoon of the same day the ship was towed to +her former anchoring ground off Kuchin. The same night the Harlequin and +Royalist arrived in the river, and a day or two afterwards a brig and +schooner came over with the intention of bidding for the remains of the +ship, and of stocking the officers with clothes and necessaries. This +was a losing speculation, as may be imagined, arising from a report +having been circulated that it was impossible to raise the ship, +whereas, as the reader will perceive, there was very little difficulty +in so doing, nothing but sufficient strength being required. + +Our ship, as may be supposed, was in a most filthy state after the late +immersion. Plunging into a river does not clean a vessel, although it +does a man. The decks were literally coated with mud and slime, which +emitted the most foetid odour. Silver spoons, watches, and valuables of +every description, were everywhere strewed about, few of which ever +reached their rightful owners; for the Malays who were employed to clean +the ship had an eye to business, and secreted every thing which was +portable. By dint of great exertion, the ship was in a few days ready to +receive her tanks, guns, and stores, which were embarked by the +Harlequin's boats and boats' crews. She was soon in a forward state, and +an expedition was formed to survey a part of the coast during the +completion of her refitting. The gig and one of the barges were fitted +out for this service, and on August the 13th, at daylight, we left +Kuchin, well armed, and provisioned for ten days. At 10 A. M. we dropped +anchor under the Peak of Santabong, from which the branch of the Sarawak +we were then in derives its name. Here we remained a short time to +refresh the men, who had not ceased tugging at the oar from the time +that we started. The foot of the Santabong mountain is about a quarter +of a mile from the river. It then ascends almost perpendicularly to a +great height, towering far above the neighbouring mountains. Afterwards +it runs seaward for a mile or two, and terminates in a remarkable peak, +which forms the eastern horn of the extensive bay between it and Tanjon +Datu. Here we were about a week, during which time we had extended our +survey to the last-mentioned cape, which is about forty miles to the +westward of Santabong. While in the vicinity of Datu, a strict watch was +kept, that we might have timely notice of the approach of any prahus. A +short distance from the cape is a delightful bay studded with small +islets, which is known by the appellation of Pirate's Bay, so called +from its being a favourite resort of the Illanoan pirates. It was in +this bay that the Dido's boats were anchored when they were surprised by +several piratical prahus, the look-out men in the European boats, +exhausted by the heat and long pulling at the oar, having fallen asleep. +They had scarcely time to cut the cables and grasp their weapons ere +they were assailed on all sides by the pirates, who felt confident of +success, from having found them napping. But they little knew what +people they had to deal with, and if Jack was asleep when they made the +attack, they found him wide awake when they came to close quarters. All +their endeavours to board in the face of the rapid fire of the boats' +guns and small arms proved abortive, and they soon discovered that it +would be quite sufficient for their purpose if, instead of capturing the +boats, they could make their own escape. One of the prahus, pierced by +the well-directed shot, foundered, another was abandoned, and the rest, +favoured by darkness, made their escape. For a more detailed account, I +must refer the reader to Captain Keppel's work on Borneo. + +During the survey, we visited the islands of Talen Talen--the Malay word +for turtle. These islands are the property of Mr. Brooke. A few Malays +lived on the largest of them for the purpose of getting turtle eggs, +with which they supply the trading prahus, who continually call here to +lay in a stock of these eggs, which are considered a great luxury by the +Malays. We landed with Mr. Williamson, the Malay interpreter at Sarawak, +belonging to Mr. Brooke's establishment. We were well received by the +Malays, who knew Mr. Williamson well, and he informed them that our +object was to procure a live turtle. They requested us to take our +choice of the numerous turtle then lying on the beach. We selected one +of about three cwt.; but although the turtles are never turned on this +island, she appeared to be aware that such was our intention, and +scuttled off as fast as she could for the water; however, we intercepted +her, and with some difficulty secured our prize. From one of the +numerous nests on the beach we took 600 turtle eggs. As many thousands +could have been as easily procured, but we had sufficient for our wants. +The Malays watch during the night, to ascertain where the turtle +deposits her eggs, for as soon as she has finished her task, she covers +them with her nippers with sand, and immediately retires into the sea. A +piece of wood is then set up as a mark for the nest, which is rifled as +occasion requires. It is a curious fact that the male turtle never +lands. + +[Illustration: MALAYS OF KUCHIN.] + +After visiting several villages on the coast, we returned to Kuchin on +Saturday the 19th, when we found that death had deprived us of our only +musician on board the ship, a loss which was much felt by the crew, as +he contributed much to their amusement. One of the supernumerary boys +had also fallen a victim to the dysentery; but, although we deplored our +loss, we had great reason to be thankful that it had been no greater, as +on the day we left Kuchin, we had upwards of seventy men on the sick +report. The same day, at noon, the anchor was weighed, and we dropped +down the river with the ebb tide. Strange to say, in spite of all our +precautions, we struck on the same reef of rocks again; fortunately, +however, the ship turned with the tide and grounded in the mud close to +the bushes, from whence there was no extricating her till the flood tide +had made. In the afternoon, when it was low water, a very large +alligator was discovered asleep upon the rocks, which had been properly +christened the Samarang Rocks, and which were now, at low ebb, several +feet above water. A party of officers and marines pulled towards him, +and fired a volley at him. The brute was evidently wounded, as he sprang +up several feet in the air, and then disappeared under the water. +Shortly after he again made his appearance, having landed on the +opposite side of the river; his assailants again gave chase, and again +wounded him, but he shuffled into the river and escaped. + +At three in the afternoon, we were much pleased at the arrival of the +Diana, one of the Company's steamers, sent from Sincapore to our +assistance. She proved extremely useful, for that night we gained +fifteen miles, when we again grounded and remained all night. On the +following day, at eleven A. M., a cloud of thick smoke was observed +rising above the jungle, which we immediately decided to proceed from a +steamer. Shortly afterwards two masts appeared above the trees, and at +one of them the Vixen's number was flying: she soon hove in sight. We +weighed, and with the Harlequin, were towed down the river at a rapid +pace. When we arrived at the entrance we anchored, finding there the +Wanderer, and being joined soon afterwards by the Ariel, Royalist, and +Diana, we formed a squadron of six vessels. + +On the 23d August, the Samarang, Harlequin, Ariel, and Royalist, weighed +anchor and steered along the coast for Borneo Proper, where we arrived +on Tuesday the 29th. On the Thursday following, Mr. Brooke, accompanied +by the captains of the three men-of-war and some officers, started in +one of the barges for the city of Bruni, which was about eighteen miles +from our anchorage. They had an audience with the sultan, but upon what +cause I do not exactly know. They were treated with great civility, and +returned to the ship about one o'clock on the following morning. My +description of Bruni I shall reserve for a future visit. On the 5th of +September we made sail for Hong Kong, with the Vixen in company, leaving +the Ariel and Royalist to carry Mr. Brooke and the rajah's brother down +to Sarawak. The Harlequin sailed for Sincapore. The Vixen having parted +company to obtain fuel at Manilla, we continued our course to Hong Kong, +where we arrived on the 14th inst., and found there Admirals Parker and +Cochrane, in their respective ships the Cornwallis and Agincourt, with +others of the squadron. We sailed again on the 2d of November, and after +working up the coast of China for a week, we steered to the eastward, +and on the 12th sighted the Bashee group. Here our surveying duties +commenced in earnest, as we left the ship at four A. M. and did not +return till darkness put an end to our labours. The governor of this +group of islands sent a letter to our captain requesting the pleasure of +seeing the ship in San Domingo Bay, where wood, water, and live stock +could be obtained on reasonable terms. This letter was accompanied with +a present of fruit and vegetables. A few days afterwards, we worked up +to San Domingo Bay (Batan Island), and we were much surprised on our +arrival to perceive that the town had a cathedral, of apparently ancient +architecture, besides several houses built on the European style. The +remainder of the town, which is of some extent, was composed of houses +built of bamboo, and thatched with palm leaves. + +We anchored late in the afternoon, and were boarded by a Spanish +military officer, who, to judge by certain signs and peculiarities, had +been imbibing something stronger than water. The captain and some of +the officers went on shore, to call upon the governor. The governor's +house was distinguished by a flag-staff, with the Spanish colours, or, +rather, a remnant of the Spanish colours; and around the door stood a +group of most indifferently clad Luzonian soldiers, turned out, we +presumed, as a guard of honour. The governor was as much in dishabille +as his troops, and shortly afterwards the party was joined by two +priests and the governor's wife, a very pretty Creole, about twenty +years of age. We were regaled with wine and chocolate, and parted late +in the evening, on very friendly terms. The governor's house is a +miserable abode: it has but one story, and the basement is a barrack for +the soldiers. The upper part, inhabited by the governor, was very +scantily furnished: a few old chairs, a couple of tables, and the walls +whitewashed and decorated with prints of the Virgin Mary and his +excellency's patron saint. The house of the priests, which adjoined the +cathedral, was in much better repair, and more gaudy in the inside. + +There are three missions in Batan, each settlement having its cathedral +and officiating priests. The natives, who are a distinct race, are +well-proportioned, of a copper colour, and medium stature. They are very +ugly: their hair is black, and cut short. Their usual dress consists of +a piece of cotton, passed round the loins, and a peculiar-looking +conical hat, surmounted with a tuft of goat's hair. In rainy weather +they wear a cloak of rushes, through which the water cannot penetrate. +The sole covering of the women is a piece of cotton, fastened below the +bosom, and reaching down to the knee. Almost the whole of the Bashee +group of islands are very mountainous. At the back of San Domingo the +land rises to a great height, forming a remarkable peak, which can be +seen many leagues distant. Bullocks, goats, pigs, and vegetables, can be +obtained at a very moderate price; but very little fruit is grown, the +natives usually preferring to cultivate yams, cocoas, and sweet +potatoes. The sugar-cane is cultivated, and the tobacco grown here is +considered, with great justice, far superior to any grown at Luzon. +After a week's stay at San Domingo we ran down to Ivana, one of the +missions, and made a rough survey of the bay. The mission house at this +place was fitted up with every comfort, and we even found luxuries which +we looked in vain for at San Domingo. + +[Illustration: NATIVE OF BATAN.] + +After completing the survey of this portion of the island, the governor +(who had accompanied us from San Domingo) and a party of us set off to +return to San Domingo by land. Our path lay over mountains nearly 2000 +feet in height, from the summit of which every point and inlet could be +discerned, over the whole of the group which lay below, exactly as if +they were laid down on a chart. Our walk was very fatiguing, and we were +all rejoiced when, from an eminence, we descried the village of San +Carlos, the residence of the warm-hearted and hospitable Father +Nicholas. We descended into the vale, and were heartily welcomed by the +jolly old priest, who regaled us with all that his larder could supply +us. It had been arranged that the ship should leave Ivana for San +Domingo on the following morning. At the entreaty of the good padre we +remained at San Carlos all night, and the following morning returned to +San Domingo, the ship anchoring in the bay on the same afternoon. We had +now become quite domesticated with the friendly Spaniards. In the +evenings we were received by an assemblage of the natives at the +governor's house. They were dressed in their best, and went through an +unmeaning dance, which was kept up till a late hour. + +On the 27th November we left Batan, and its kind inhabitants, who +exacted a promise that we would return at some future period, and shaped +a course for the Madjicosima islands, which are subject to the kingdom +of Loo Choo. On the afternoon of the 1st of December land was discovered +ahead, and a few hours afterwards we anchored in a narrow passage, +surrounded by reefs on every side. We were anchored off the island of +Pa-tchu-san, one of the group: it was very mountainous. On the following +morning the captain and some of the officers went on shore. They were +received by several hundred natives, who saluted them as they passed on +their way to a temporary shed, where a levee was held by all the +principal mandarins. Our Chinese interpreter, who was a native of +Canton, explained the captain's wishes, and the nature of the service +that we were employed on. They appeared uneasy at the proposal of our +surveying the whole group, and informed the captain that they would +refer the question to the viceroy, and give him a final answer on the +morrow. This answer was in the affirmative, and a few days afterwards we +commenced our survey of the islands. We were attended by the natives, +who furnished us with horses, and anticipated our wishes in every thing +that could make us comfortable. On the first day, at sunset, we arrived +at a temple dedicated to Fo, romantically situated in a grove of trees, +which concealed the elevation until you were within a few yards of it. +Here it was proposed to take up our quarters for the night, and a more +delightful spot could not well be imagined than our resting-place. + +The temple was built at the foot of a hill, within a few hundred yards +of the sea. Lights were displayed as a signal to the stragglers, groups +of whom might be seen by the light of the moon, reposing themselves on +the ridge behind us. The glare of the torches brought them all down to +us, both men and horses anxious for rest after the arduous toil of the +day. Just as I was dropping off to sleep, one of my messmates said to +another, "I say, Jemmy, I wonder whether your mother has any idea that +you are sleeping in the temple of Fo, on the island of Pa-tchu-san?" A +loud snore was the only reply, proving that the party addressed was +unconscious of the island Pa-tchu-san, the temple of Fo, or of his +mother, and the bells ringing for church. + +Pa-tchu-san, as I have before observed, is very mountainous and +exceedingly picturesque. A high ridge covered with trees extends the +whole length of the island, north and south. On either side of this +ridge are innumerable grassy knolls and mounds from which we looked down +upon the extensive plain on either side, which was studded with knolls +similar to those that we were standing on. During our survey we passed +through all the villages bordering the sea, at the entrance of which we +were invariably received by all the principal inhabitants. All their +villages or towns are surrounded by the most luxurious groves, which +have been apparently planted, for in many parts not a shrub could be +seen beyond the confines of the town. The roads through the towns or +streets generally meet at right angles, lined on each side with gigantic +trees. The houses are built within enclosures raised with huge stones. +These houses are strongly built, the frame being composed of four +uprights of large timber, to which are attached cross pieces on the top +of them, of the same dimensions as their supporters. Openings are left +on each side of the house, which, when the owner pleases, can be closed +by well-fitted shutters on the sliding principle. The roofs are thatched +with paddy stalks. The floor frame is raised about two feet from the +ground, and on it are fixed strong slips of bamboo, which are covered +over with mats. These afford very comfortable sitting and sleeping +apartments. The only inconvenience was, that the fire was made in the +corner of the sitting-room, and as there was no vent for the smoke, we +were nearly stifled. This nuisance was, however, soon removed by a word +to the natives through the medium of the interpreter, and afterwards the +fire was lighted, and the victuals cooked, at an adjoining shed. + +The natives of the Madjicosima islands are rather below the middle +stature, but very strong and muscular. Their hair is worn in a very +peculiar manner; the crown of the head is shaved, leaving a circle of +long hair, which is turned up on the top of the head and tied into a +knot of a peculiar shape. Through this knot of hair are passed two brass +ornaments by the common people, but the chiefs are distinguished by +silver ones. These are evidently intended to keep the knot in its right +position. They cultivate the moustache and the beard, the latter being +worn pointed. Their dress consists of a long loose robe of blue or +cross-barred cotton stuffs, which reaches down nearly to the ancles. +This robe is fastened to the waist by a girdle of the same material, and +in which they keep their fans, pipes, &c. The sleeves of the robe are +very large, widening as they approach the wrists, which are consequently +bare. Their shoes or sandals are very ingeniously made of wicker work, +and confined to the foot by means of a strap between the larger toes of +each foot. + +[Illustration: NATIVE OF PA-TCHU-SAN.] + +The inhabitants of these islands certainly deserve to be ranked among +the most gentle and amiable of nations: no boisterousness attends their +conversation, no violent gestures to give effect to the words; on the +contrary, their voices are modulated when they are speaking, and their +actions, although decided, are gentle. Their mode of salutation is +graceful in the extreme. It consists in a low bending of the head, +accompanied with a slight inclination of the body, and the hands closed, +being raised at the same time to the forehead. What a change in a few +degrees of latitude, in manners, customs, and dispositions, between the +savage pirates of Borneo and these amiable islanders! + +The plains between the mountains are cultivated as paddy fields: the +soil appears very good, and there is little doubt but that every kind of +fruit would grow if introduced into these islands; and what a fitting +present it would be to them, if they were to be sent. They grow +radishes, onions, and sweet potatoes, but not more than are sufficient +for their own use. They supplied us with bullocks, pigs, goats, and +fowls, but they seldom kill them for their own use; their principal diet +being composed of shell fish and vegetables made into a sort of stew, +which is eaten with rice, worked by the hand into balls. Every man of +consequence carries with him a kind of portable larder, which is a box +with a shelf in the middle, and a sliding door. In this are put cups of +Japan, containing the eatables. This Chow Chow box is carried by a +servant, who also takes with him a wicker basket, containing rice and +potatoes for his own consumption. + +These islands have no intercourse with any part of the world except Loo +Choo, to which they pay tribute as dependencies, and from whence they +annually receive the necessaries they may require, by a junk. They had +no idea that the continents of Europe or America existed. They had only +heard of China, Loo Choo, and Japan, and they could hardly credit our +assertions when we stated that we had lately gained a great victory over +China. When we gave them a description of steam vessels, and first-rate +men-of-war carrying 120 guns, they evidently disbelieved us. We were the +first white men they had ever seen; and ludicrous was the repeated +examination of our arms, which they bared and contrasted with their own. +After great persuasion a few of the chief mandarins and their suites +visited the ship, which was put in holiday attire upon the occasion. It +would be impossible to attempt to describe their rapture at the +neatness, order, and regularity which reigned on board. The guns were +shotted and fired for their amusement: they threw up their hands in +astonishment, and gazed on us and on each other with looks of blank +amazement. During the whole of our peregrinations over these islands we +never saw a female, for on our approach to any village a courier was +sent ahead to warn the inhabitants of our arrival, when the women either +shut themselves up or retired to an adjacent village until we had passed +through. The men assisted us in our labours and attended to our comforts +by all the means in their power. Horses were provided every day, houses +for us at night, and good substantial repasts. Wherever they enter, the +natives invariably eat and drink, more, I believe, from custom than from +hunger. On these occasions tea is the general beverage, the kettle being +a large shell, which admirably answers the purpose. It may be worthy of +remark, that on entering a house, the shoes or sandals are invariably +left at the door. Two of the chiefs were deservedly great favourites +with our party; they were given the famous names of Chesterfield and +Beaufort, the former from his gentlemanly manners, the latter from the +profound knowledge he displayed of all rocks, shoals, &c. On the 17th of +December, having completed our survey of Pa-tchu-san, we returned to the +ship: on the 22d we left our anchorage, which was christened Port +Providence, and ran round to Kuchee Bay on the opposite side of the +island. This noble bay was called Port Haddington, in honour of the late +first lord of the Admiralty. On the 27th the first barge, cutter, and +gig left the ship to survey the island Ku-king-san, the nearest port of +which was about twenty miles from Kuchee Bay, alias Port Haddington, +where we lay at anchor. The boats carried with them provisions for three +weeks, by which time it was supposed that the survey would be completed. +As the formation of this island is similar to Pa-tchu-san, it would be +but repetition to describe it minutely, but it is worthy of remark that +it is indented with numerous deep bays, in each of which there is +sufficient water for a ship of the line. Many of these bays have natural +breakwaters, created by shoals, with a deep water passage on either side +of them, and which may be easily distinguished from the shoals by the +deep blue colour of the water. + +On the 15th of January, 1844, the surveying party returned, having been +absent twenty days. We were again visited by the mandarins, who came to +bid us farewell: they quitted us with many expressions of good will, and +expressed a wish that we would return again, and as _individuals_, I had +no doubt of their sincerity. + +On the 18th of January we sailed for Ty-ping-san, which is situated +about seventy miles north of Pa-tchu-san. On the following day we +sighted the land, and late in the evening anchored off the coast. This +island is low, compared with the other islands of the group. The +following morning the captain landed and presented a letter of +introduction given him by the mandarins of Pa-tchu-san. The letter of +introduction had the best effects, for we were immediately visited by +the principal mandarins, who informed us that we should be furnished +with horses and every thing else that we might require. + +It was on a reef to the northward of this island that the Providence, of +twenty guns, was wrecked about fifty years back. Captain Broughton and +the crew arrived safely at Ty-ping-san, but the present inhabitants, +when it was mentioned, either did not or would not recollect any thing +of the circumstances. As a proof of the morality of these people, and +how much crime is held in abhorrence, I have the following little +history to narrate. + +During our survey, we fixed a station upon the extremity of a bleak and +desolate point of land running more than a mile into the sea. There, in +a cave formed by a reef on a mass of rock, we discovered two skeletons. +This would not have so much excited our suspicion, had it not been from +the remarkable locality, as in all the graves we fell in with the +corpses were invariably uncoffined. We expressed a wish to know why such +a spot should have been fixed upon as a last resting-place, as it was +many miles from the nearest habitation. It was not until after much +entreaty that they at length, very reluctantly, consented to give us the +desired explanation, which, as nearly as I can recollect, was as +follows:-- + +A young girl, who was considered as the belle and pride of the nearest +town, had formed an attachment to a youth who had been brought up with +her, as a playmate, from their earliest years; and it was acknowledged +by the inhabitants of the town that a more fitting match could not be +made, as the young man was of most graceful mien, and equally well +favoured as his mistress; but the father of the girl, who had been all +along blind to the natural consequences of their long intimacy, had +other views for his daughter, and had selected a husband for her whose +chief recommendation was his wealth. So far it is the old story. + +To oppose her father's commands was not to be thought of, for filial +obedience is, with this people, one of the most sacred of duties. +The bridal day approached; presents had been exchanged between the +parents of the parties; and every thing was in a forward state for the +celebration of the nuptials, with all the magnificence befitting the +wealthy condition of the bridegroom. The lovers were in a state of +phrensy, but solaced themselves with stolen interviews. At length the +poor girl, urged by her lover, confessed every thing to her father, and +implored his mercy. He was thunderstruck at this intelligence, for till +that moment he had imagined that his daughter had not a thought to which +he was not privy. The most rigorous discipline was resorted to--the girl +was confined to her chamber, and spies placed to watch every motion. +Those to whom she thought she could trust were suborned by her father, +and to him were conveyed all the letters which she believed to have been +safely conveyed to her lover. His notes being also intercepted, at last +each considered the other as faithless. The poor girl, imagining that +her lover had forsaken her, at last sent to her father, to acquaint him +that she had returned to her duty, and was ready to receive the man whom +he had selected for her husband. They were married: but she deceived +herself; as soon as the ceremony was over, the courage which had +supported her gave way, her former feelings returned stronger than ever, +and she hated herself for her fickleness. Her heart whispered that it +was impossible that one possessing every great and every amiable +quality, as did her lover, could ever have proved faithless, or would +have abandoned one who loved him so dearly. As she sat in the garden and +wept, a slight noise attracted her attention, and she found in her +presence her lover, disguised, who had come to take a last farewell. +Explanations immediately ensued--they found that they had been +tricked--their love and their despair overcame their reason, and they +fled. The father and bridegroom pursued the guilty pair, and after a +most rigorous search, they were discovered. They knew that their fate +was sealed, and they bore up bravely to the last. They were arraigned, +found guilty, and condemned to death; after which their bodies were to +be removed far from any dwelling-place. The sentence was carried into +effect, and their remains were deposited in the cave in which we +discovered them. Many parents might draw a lesson from this tragedy, and +anybody who feels inclined may write a novel upon it; it must not, +however, bear the same title as the Chinese one translated by Governor +Davis, which is styled the "Fortunate Union." + +In ten days we completed the survey of the island, and sailed for Batan, +where we arrived on the 7th of February. There we remained a few days, +and then sailed for Hong Kong, having but three days' provisions on +board. We encountered a heavy gale; but, fortunately, it was in our +favour. On the 9th a junk was reported in sight; and in the course of an +hour we were sufficiently near to perceive that the people on board of +her were making signals of distress, and cutting away her masts. We hove +to as near to her as we could venture, for the sea ran high, and lowered +a boat, which reached the junk in safety. They found her to be in a +sinking state: a hawser was made fast to her, with the intention of +towing her into Hong Kong, then not fifty miles distant. We again made +sail, towing the junk at a rapid rate; but the strain caused her planks +to sever, and consequently increased the rush of water in her hold. The +Chinese hailed the ship, and entreated to be rescued from their perilous +condition. She was immediately hauled alongside, and twelve of her crew +succeeded in getting on board of us; but the hawser gave way, and the +junk drifted astern, with five men still remaining on board. Sail was +immediately made, and in a short time we ran alongside of her, staving +in her bulwarks, for both vessels were rolling heavily. Fortunately her +mainmast had gone by the board; had it been still standing, and had +become locked in our rigging, we should have been in great peril +ourselves. The remaining five men and a dog gained the ship, and the +junk again went astern, and in three minutes afterwards went to the +bottom. When they saw her sink, the Chinese raised up a cry at their +miraculous escape. One poor fellow had his hand shockingly mutilated, it +having been crushed between the sides of the two vessels. + +The wind had now much subsided, and we made sail for Hong Kong, where we +arrived on the following day. There we found the Agincourt, Sir Thomas +Cochrane, who was now commander-in-chief, Sir William Parker having +sailed for England. The cutter and two of the Company's steamers were +also here; and the Minden hospital ship, as usual, crowded with the +sick and dying. Our first lieutenant, Mr. Wade, took this opportunity of +leaving the ship, and Mr. Heard succeeded him. + +On the 6th we sailed for Macao, which is too well known to require any +description here. On the 10th we sailed for Manilla, an account of which +I shall reserve for our future visit. On the 1st of April we again +sailed, on a surveying cruise, to the southward. After fixing the +positions of several small islands in the Mendoro Sea, we steered for +Samboangan, a Spanish penal colony, situated at the southern extremity +of Mindanao. On the 8th we arrived there, and took up our anchorage +close to the town. + +Samboangan is built on an extensive plain; most of the houses are +supported on poles ten or twelve feet from the ground. The roofs are +thatched, and the sides covered with palm leaves, ingeniously secured by +strips of bamboo. The fort is well built; and although a century old, is +in very good preservation. It has a numerous garrison, and is defended +by guns of large calibre. There is also an establishment of gun-boats, +which scour the coast in search of pirates. On each side, and at the +back of the town, are groves of cocoa-nuts, bamboos, plantains, and +other fruit trees, through which narrow paths are cut, forming +delightful shady walks to a stranger, who gazes with astonishment and +pleasure upon the variety of delicious fruits, of whose existence he had +no idea. The plain on which the town is built extends about eight miles +inland, when it is bounded by a chain of mountains, which divides the +Spanish territory from that of the warlike tribes who inhabit the +interior. + +The plain I have spoken of is covered with small villages, pleasantly +situated among thick groves of trees; and it is watered by numerous +streams. The whole country around Samboangan abounds in scenery of the +most picturesque description; and the groups of gaily-dressed and +joyous natives in no small degree add to the beauty of the landscape. +Horses can be obtained at very moderate charges; but unfortunately no +one has ever thought of establishing an hotel, and the want of one was +much felt. We were, therefore, thrown upon the hospitality and kindness +of the natives, who made us welcome by every demonstration in their +power. Fruit, chocolate, and sweet biscuits, were the ordinary +refreshments, for which the charges made scarcely repaid the trouble of +preparing them. + +The church, priests' and governor's houses, are the only respectable +buildings in the colony; the other houses in the town are very inferior, +being inhabited by liberated exiles from Manilla. We remained here five +days, and early on the morning of the 13th ran down to a watering-place +about fifteen miles from the town, and completed our water. + +The same night we sailed for Sooloo; and the next day, when performing +divine service, it being Sunday, the officer of the watch reported five +prahus in sight, full of men, and each armed with a long gun, pulling +towards the ship. It was quite calm at the time, and our main deck ports +were open. No doubt they perceived the daylight through the ports, and +satisfied themselves that we were a man-of-war, for they soon afterwards +altered their course, and made for the shore. We presumed that they were +pirates from the island of Baselan, who, fancying we were a merchant +vessel, had come out with the intention of attacking us. + +At noon on the 16th of April we made the town of Sooloo, the capital of +the island of the same name. It being calm, and the ship at some +distance from the anchorage, the gig was sent ahead to board one of the +three schooners lying in the bay, and hoist a light, as a guide to the +ship; and a rocket was put into the boat to fire in case of being +attacked by superior numbers. There were but five men in the gig! + +After two hours' hard pulling, they arrived alongside the largest of the +three vessels. She proved to be the Velocipede, an English vessel, +trading to Sooloo for pearl oysters. The owner of the schooner soon came +from the shore, having been sent off by the sultan of Sooloo to know the +object of our visit. He was accompanied by several Datus or chiefs, who +went back to the town perfectly satisfied with the explanation given. +But the arrival of a man-of-war appeared to excite the fears of the +natives, for gongs were sounding throughout the night, and lights were +flitting to and fro, by the aid of which it was perceived that there was +a strong assemblage of the natives. + +The ship anchored on the afternoon of the following day, and the +captain, attended by several of his officers, visited the sultan. We +were received by the prime minister, who informed us that the sultan was +somewhat indisposed, and begged to postpone the interview until the +following day. Leaving the palace, we strolled through the town, which +is partly built in the water; bridges, formed of interlaced bamboo, were +the means of communication between the houses. As these bridges were +some hundred yards in length, the walking was somewhat dangerous; a slip +would have been the cause of a good ducking and a swim to any unlucky +wight, which, I have no doubt, would have given great satisfaction to +the townspeople, who, armed with spears, krisses, and shields, were +watching our motions; but no such mishap occurred, and we returned on +board before sunset. Next day the captain and the same party went again +on shore, and were received by the sultan in person. He was dressed in +the extreme of Malay fashion. He was an excessively plain young man, and +seemed to be ill at ease during the whole of the conference. He appeared +to be a mere puppet in the hands of his ferocious chiefs, who had all +the conversation, without referring to their royal master at any time. + +The sultan's dress consisted of a purple satin jacket and green velvet +trousers, both trimmed with gold and silver lace; a red sash confined +his trousers at the waist; and in the sash he wore a kris of the most +costly description. He wore diamond buttons on his jacket, which, being +open, exposed his naked chest. But the party who mostly excited our +interest was the heir apparent, a child of four years old, who was +dressed as an adult, even to his miniature kris. He bids fair to be a +handsome man. His laughing face and engaging manner caused him to be +caressed by the whole party, a circumstance which evidently gave much +pleasure to the sultan. We were regaled with chocolate, sweet cakes, and +fruit; and every attention paid to us by the chiefs. At our departure +the sultan and ministers shook hands warmly with every one of our party, +and we returned on board, accompanied by Mr. Wyndham, of the Velocipede +schooner, who, being a perfect master of the tongue, had acted as an +interpreter on this occasion. + +The Samarang was the first English man-of-war that had called at Sooloo +since the visit of Dalrymple in 1761, when he reinstated on the throne +the sultan (grandfather to the present one), who had been deposed by his +rebellious subjects. + +Great Sooloo is about fifty miles in length, and twenty-five in breadth, +being the largest of a group of islands known as the Sooloo Archipelago. +This group of islands is inhabited by a fierce and warlike race, bearing +in their personal appearance a strong resemblance to the Malays, +although the two languages differ materially from each other. Great +Sooloo, the residence of the sultan, is very mountainous. Many of the +mountains are wooded to the summit, while others are covered with +patches of cultivation. These islands are thickly populated; and if the +islanders do not practise piracy as a profession, they are always ready +to aid, assist, and protect those who do. The town of Sooloo is well +known to be the principal rendezvous of pirates, who, whenever they +have made a capture, resort there to dispose of their lawless booty. The +ministers, and even the sultan himself, are not able to resist the +temptation of being able to purchase European goods, and articles of +value, for less than half their real value. If not the stealers, they +are the receivers, and thus they patronise piracy of every description. +Governed by their own prince, and independent of any other power, the +people of Sooloo have most extravagant notions of their own prowess, and +of the strength of their fortifications; and they ridicule the idea of +any one venturing to interfere with or attack them. + +[Illustration: SOOLOO VILLAGE.] + +On the 18th of April we sailed from Sooloo, and visited several islands +in the Archipelago, on one of which we grounded, but escaped without +sustaining any damage. On the 23rd we anchored off Unsang, the eastern +province of Borneo, where we remained four days surveying the coast. A +shooting and fishing party visited the shore daily: the former killed +several wild hogs, and the latter brought every evening a plentiful +supply of fish. + +On the 27th of April sailed from Unsang. This day we first served out +our ship-brewed porter, in addition to the usual allowance of spirits. +It continued to be served out nightly, but opinions were very different +about its merits. + +For several days after leaving Unsang, we had but little or no wind, and +we were borne away by a strong easterly current, till we were carried in +sight of Celebes, which is high and mountainous, and covered with dense +forests of gigantic trees. On Sunday, the 4th of May, we arrived off +Cape Rivers (Celebes), the position of which was determined by +astronomical observations. It was the intention of the captain to have +passed through the Straits of Macassar, but light wind, and a strong +current from the southward, would not permit us to gain a mile per day. +After experiencing very disagreeable weather while off the coast, we +bore up and made sail for Monado, a Dutch settlement on one of the +north-western promontories of this remarkably shaped island. Our passage +was any thing but agreeable; scarcely a night passed that we were not +visited by strong squalls, accompanied by thunder, lightning, and heavy +rain. On Sunday, the 18th, we anchored in forty-eight fathoms off the +town of Monado, within two cables' length of the shore, which shelves +very suddenly into deep water. A kedge was laid out in-shore of the +ship, and kept well taut; a requisite precaution, as otherwise, if the +land breeze blew off strong, the ship would have dragged her anchor down +the steep beach, and drifted out. + +The town of Monado is built on a plain surrounded by mountains, the +highest of which, Klabat, is 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The +houses are well built, and neatly thatched; they are all detached, and +enclosed in a yard or garden. The roads are excellent, and reflect great +credit upon a Prussian engineer, who undertook the task. The fort, which +is at the water's edge, is small, but strongly built, and well adapted +to resist the attack of any native force, although I should imagine it +could not hold out any time against the well-directed fire of a +frigate's broadside. A party of us enjoyed a pleasant ramble through the +town and suburbs, which are dotted with neat cottages, where their +owners invited us to enter and partake of refreshments. We went into +several, and found them scrupulously neat and clean, as Dutch houses +usually are. The people who entertained us refused all compensation, and +it was with difficulty that we prevailed upon the black-eyed damsels to +accept our silk handkerchiefs by way of reminiscences. Very few +Europeans reside here, although their half-bred offspring may be seen in +every tenth person, and they boast of the European blood which flows in +their veins. Monado abounds with poultry, fruit, vegetables, and all the +necessaries of life. Cocoa and sugar are cultivated. Stock is easily +obtained, and very moderate; and water is procured from a small river +which divides the town. Boats should enter the river at last quarter +flood, and return first quarter ebb, as the tide falls rapidly; and at +low water the bar at the entrance is dry. During our stay we surveyed +the major portion of the bay, finding nothing under 150 fathoms of water +at one-third of a mile from the shore. + +We found here a Mr. Hart, who had been left at this place in consequence +of his precarious state, from a gun-shot wound he had received on the +Coti River (Borneo). Mr. Hart was a volunteer in the ill-fated +expedition undertaken by Mr. Murray, who attempted to establish a +colony in the Coti River, and who lost his life in an encounter with the +natives. The vessels employed--a brig and a schooner--were fitting out +at Hong Kong while we were there. We fell in with the schooner (the +Young Queen) the day after we left Manilla. The captain of her came on +board to give us the intelligence of the failure of the expedition, with +the death of its leader. Misfortune appeared to cling to them, for, soon +after the schooner left Coti, the crew of her mutinied, and the mutiny +was not put down but by the death of the ringleader, who was shot by the +commander. He was bound to Hong Kong to deliver himself up for trial for +taking the life of the man, and I hardly need observe that he was fully +acquitted. This gentleman was a brother of Mr. Hart. + +On the 26th of May, our observations being completed, we sailed from +Monado; Mr. Hart, with the captain's permission, taking advantage of +this opportunity of reaching Sincapore. The following day we ran through +the Straits of Banca, and steered for Ternate, off which island we +arrived on the following Saturday. On Sunday morning, before daylight, +we struck heavily on a coral reef, but by dint of great exertion we got +off, and floated at six. A boat was despatched to the Dutch governor of +the town to state that it was not our intention to anchor. The island of +Ternate is, I believe, governed by a sultan, who has sway over several +other islands. The Dutch have a settlement here, and have long been on +good terms with the ruling powers. It is the most important of the +Molucca group, as it produces a vast quantity of cloves, beside every +variety of tropical fruits. It was taken by us in 1810, and restored in +1815. This island, as far as I could judge, is perfectly round, and +about twenty-five miles in circuit, the land gradually rising to a huge +peak in the centre. It is of volcanic formation. It is well wooded, and +abounds with game; and on this island the boa constrictor grows to the +largest size, being often found upwards of thirty feet in length. The +Dutch town is built on the south-east side of the island. The houses +appear to be better constructed than those of Monado, and the whole town +better arranged. There are several forts, two churches, and apparently +about 400 houses. The one occupied by the governor is distinguished from +the others by its size, and superiority of architecture and decorations. +We obtained quantities of every description of fruit from the boats +which crowded round the ship: in addition to shaddocks, pineapples, +oranges, bananas, and many other common varieties, we had the delightful +treat of the mangosteins, which grow only in these latitudes. It is +impossible to describe the peculiarly grateful taste of this cool and +refreshing fruit. It is a mixture of the sweet and acid, blended in the +most luscious manner. It is in size somewhat smaller than an apple, and +the skin, which is very thick and bitter, of a dark plum colour. This +when dried is used as a remedy for the dysentery. The inside, which is +nearly white, is divided into four parts, resembling in substance a firm +jelly; and, in my opinion, gives one more the idea of what nectar was, +or ought to be, than any thing else which enters into the mouth of man. +We decided that the Peak of Ternate was the true Mount Olympus, and that +it was there that the gods were assembled and, in ancient days, ate +mangosteins, called nectar by the Greeks. + +The boat which had been sent on shore to the governor at length +returned, and we made sail to the southward, to survey a portion of the +coast of Gilolo (another of the Spice Islands), which was supposed to be +laid down incorrectly in the charts. + +On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of June, the ship being off the coast +of Gilolo, the gig with the captain, and the barge with several +officers, left the ship with four days' provisions to survey a portion +of the coast. At 11 A. M. they landed on a reef, running out about a +cable's length from a small island. About two in the afternoon a body of +natives, armed with spears and krisses, issued with loud yells from the +jungle, and advanced towards them. At the same time a prahu pulled round +a point, and made towards the barge, which was at anchor about fifty +yards from the shore. The captain was at the time on shore taking +observations, but as the natives approached he retired to the gig and +got the arms in readiness. The natives came within 100 yards of us, and +then halted. The captain signed them to go away: they approached nearer; +we gave them a volley, and they hastily retreated into the jungle. + +The barge was now prepared for the expected attack of the prahu, which +by this time had approached within point blank range of the barge's gun, +which was a brass six-pounder. Observing, it is to be presumed, that the +boat was so well-armed, and the men were loading the gun, the prahu +ceased pulling, and hoisted Dutch colours. They were ordered to pull for +the Gilolo shore, which they did; a rocket fired at them quickening +their speed considerably. At 3 P. M. the observations being completed, +the astronomical instruments were re-embarked on the barge, and the +captain quitted the gig and went into the barge. Both boats were pulled +towards the main land. On the in-shore side of the small island I have +mentioned, we discovered a village consisting of fifteen or twenty +houses. The gig was despatched with two officers to burn the village, +which was done; the natives who were in the huts escaping into the +jungle. In the mean time, the barge proceeded towards a large village in +search of the prahu. On their way they fell in with a large canoe, at +anchor in one of the creeks. + +Taking the canoe in tow, we again took to the oars, and in a short time +perceived the natives hauling the prahu into a creek. A round of grape +quickly decided the matter; the natives fled, and the prahu was quietly +taken possession of by our crew. Having effected our object, we +proceeded along the coast with our two prizes in tow. At sunset, after +rifling the boats of arms, flags, and gongs, we set them on fire, and +made sail to the southward; the gig, which had rejoined us, being in +company. About midnight we anchored in a small and lonely bay,--I should +say, twenty miles from where the above occurrences took place. We took +our meals, but did not attempt to repose till after two in the morning, +although we were quite tired after the events of the day before. We then +lay down, and composed ourselves to sleep. + +We had not, however, been recumbent long, ere the sounds of gongs were +heard at a distance; and shortly afterwards the man on the look-out +reported that three prahus were coming into the bay. A short time +sufficed to have every thing in readiness for the expected conflict. + +The foremost of the prahus approached within ten yards of the barge, +lowered her sail, and rounded to. A native, one of the chiefs we +presumed, inquired in broken English if we belonged to a ship. The +captain would not satisfy him on that point, but desired him to go away. + +The other two prahus, having been joined by a third (making four in +all), had now closed within half pistol shot, and lowered their sails. + +Seeing that we were completely enclosed, a musket-ball was fired over +the largest prahu. The men in the prahus gave their accustomed yell, and +the whole force advanced towards us. + +The six-pounder, loaded with round and grape, was now fired into the +largest prahu; the cries and confusion were great; the crew of the prahu +leapt into the water, but few arrived on shore,--they sunk under the +fire of our muskets. The three other prahus then commenced a spirited +fire from their guns and small arms, assisted by a flight of arrows and +spears. + +Pulling within twenty yards of them, we plied them alternately with +grape and canister from our six-pounder. The engagement continued with +great vigour for some time, when their fire slackened; and shortly +afterwards two more of the prahus were deserted by their crews, who made +for the shore; the fourth made off. The three prahus were taken +possession of, towed into deep water, and anchored. Leaving the gig in +charge of them, we went in pursuit of the fourth prahu, and soon came up +with her; but her crew escaped by running the boat on shore. + +Another prahu now hove in sight, pulling, or rather paddling, towards +us. Leaving our prize, we faced our new antagonist, saluting her with +grape and musquetry, and causing so much havoc, that, shrieking and +yelling, they made for the nearest shore without returning a single +shot. We followed her, firing into her as fast as possible. On coming up +with her we found her aground, with six dead and one mortally wounded; +the remainder of the crew had saved themselves by wading to the shore. +After getting this prahu afloat, we brought the other prahu, which we +had just before captured (No. 4.), alongside. This boat was crowded with +dead and dying. Among the latter was a female child, apparently about +eight months old, in a state of nudity. The poor little creature's left +arm was nearly severed from its body by a grape shot. She was removed +into the boat, where the rest of the wounded were placed, with as much +care as possible. A low moaning sound escaped from her lips, her eyes +were glazed, and she evidently was fast dying: it would have been a +mercy to have put an end to her sufferings. The dead were then thrown +overboard, and the prahu set on fire; the last prahu, containing the +wounded, was left to her fate. + +It was now daylight, and on looking around we perceived five more prahus +off a point between the gig and ourselves in the barge and several +others pulling in from seaward. We gave way for the five prahus, which +were drawn up in a line ready to receive us. Notwithstanding their fire, +assisted by their spears and other missiles, we pulled within fifteen +yards of the outermost prahu of the five, and discharged our gun, +accompanied by a volley of musquetry. The other prahus now closed and +poured in a heavy fire; but, although the barge was struck, not one of +our men was injured. The repeated fire from the boats soon caused the +people in the prahus to make for the shore through the water, when many +of them fell from our musquetry. It was now about six o'clock in the +morning, our last charge of canister shot was in the gun, the last +rocket in the tube, and nearly all the percussion caps expended. The +barge was pulled closer to the nearest prahu to give more effect to the +discharge, and the captain was in the stern of the barge with the rocket +tube in hand, when one of the prahus on shore fired her swivel; the ball +struck the captain, and knocked him overboard. He was hauled in, and we +found that he had received a severe wound in the groin, which was +dressed by the surgeon. + +_Lieutenant Baugh_ now took the command, and the gun was discharged with +good effect, and all the people on board of the prahus, who were able to +escape, made for the shore. One of our marines was wounded in the neck +with an arrow, and, with the exception of the captain, no other casualty +took place. + +The fight would have been continued with the round shot still left in +the barge, but the assistant surgeon was anxious that the captain should +return to the ship and have the ball extracted. The barge therefore +pulled for the ship, whose royals were just visible above the horizon. +The pirates, finding that we were retreating, returned to their prahus +and fired their guns at us, but without effect. + +We arrived on board about 9 A. M., and the ship's head was put towards +the scene of action, while the barge and two cutters were despatched in +search of the gig, of whose safety we had great doubts. About 11.30, A.M., +the second cutter, being in advance, discovered a sail in shore, and +which, by the aid of our telescopes, we made out to be the gig. When we +closed with her, and found that all was right we were greatly relieved. +We heard from Mr. Hooper, the purser, who was in her, that after waiting +in vain for the barge's return, he set fire to the prahus. In one of +them he found a woman and child alive, whom he landed at the nearest +point. He then pulled in the direction we had gone, being guided by the +sound of our guns. On his arrival in the bay we were not in sight, and +perceiving several prahus with flags flying and gongs beating, he +naturally concluded that we had been overpowered, and he was making the +best of his way towards the ship. The boats continued pulling towards +the shore, leaving the gig to return to the ship and ease the minds of +the ship's company respecting her safety. + +On our arrival in the bay with the barge and cutters, we found that the +prahus had hauled into a creek, on the banks of which was a masked +battery, which opened a spirited fire upon us as soon as we came within +range. After an hour's cannonading on both sides we were joined by the +gig, with orders for us not to land, but to return to the ship at +sunset. This order was not received with pleasure, as we hoped to have a +chance of punishing the fellows a little more. We pulled a short +distance along the coast, and entered another bay, in which we destroyed +two prahus; after which we returned to the ship. Calms, and a strong +current setting to the northward, detained the ship near the scene of +action for several days. We at length passed through the straits of +Patientia, but did not get the breeze until we sighted the Isle of +Bouro. Passing through the Bonta passage, straits of Salayer, and Java +sea, we arrived at Sincapore on the 28th of June. + +Here we found the Harlequin, which had had a brush with the pirates on +the coast of Sumatra. The Harlequin, Wanderer, and Diana were sent to +the villages of Micedo and Batta, to demand the murderers of an English +captain. On the rajah refusing to deliver them up, the vessels opened +their fire and burnt the villages. The Harlequin lost two men killed and +five wounded; among the latter was Lieutenant Chads, whose arm was +nearly severed by a Malay kris. While here the Superb arrived from Hong +Kong on her way to England; the Driver, with Sir Henry Pottinger on +board; and the Cambrian, Commodore Chads. Also the Iris from England, +and the Dido from Hong Kong, which latter vessel sailed for Sarawak. + +I may as well here remark, that the Dutch made a formal complaint +against our captain for having attacked their prahus, which they +asserted were not pirates, but employed by them against the pirates. It +is but fair to give the arguments that were used against us, +particularly as the authorities at Sincapore appeared to think that we +were to blame. They said, you were in boats, and you touched at Gillolo; +the natives, accustomed to be taken off by the Illanoan pirates, were +naturally jealous and suspicious, seeing no vessel. They came alone, +armed, to ascertain who you were. At 100 yards they stopped; you +signalled them to go away, and they advanced nearer to you, but they +committed no act of hostility. You fired a volley at them, and they +retreated. Here the aggression was on your side. + +At the same time, you say, a war prahu pulled round the point, and +approached to within range; when the prahu was close to you she ceased +paddling, and hoisted Dutch colours. You desired it to pull for the +Gillolo shore, which it did. There was no aggression in this instance, +and nothing piratical in the conduct of the prahu. After she had obeyed +your order to pull to the Gillolo shore, you wantonly fired a Congreve +rocket at her; your conduct in this instance being much more like that +of a pirate than hers. In the afternoon you pull along the Gillolo +shore, and you discover a village; you send your boat ashore and set +fire to it. Why so? You state that you were attacked by Illanoan +pirates, who reside at Tampassook, some hundred miles from Gillolo, and +you then burn the village of the people of Gillolo, and that without the +least aggression on their part. Is it surprising that you should be +supposed to be pirates after such wanton outrage? To proceed: you state +that you then go in search of the prahu which you ordered away, and that +on your way you captured a large canoe, which you take in tow, and +afterwards perceive the pirates hauling their vessel into a creek. You +attack them, and they run away, leaving the prahu in your possession, +and, as usual, after rifling the prahu and canoe, you set them on fire. +Up to this point there has been nothing but aggression on your part; and +it is not, therefore, surprising that you were supposed to be pirates, +and that the communication was made along the coast, and the vessels +employed against the pirates were summoned for its protection. Again, +the prahus came out and surrounded you; they did not fire at you, but +hailed you in English, requesting to know if you belonged to a ship. +Now, if any thing could prove that they were not pirate vessels, it was +their doing this; and had you replied, they would have explained to you +what their employment was: but you think proper to give no answer to +this simple question, order them to go away, and then fire a loaded +musket into them, which brings on the conflict which you so much +desired. That these observations were true, it must be admitted, and the +complaint of the Dutch, with the hoisting of the Dutch flag, gave great +weight to them: however, pirates or no pirates, the Admiralty Court, on +our arrival in England, considered them to have been such; and, as will +be seen by the extract from the "Times" below, awarded head money to the +amount of about 10,000l. to the captain and crew of the Samarang, and +for his wound received, our captain obtained a pension of (I believe) +L250 a year.[1] + + "ADMIRALTY COURT. + + (_Before Dr. Lushington._) + + "ILLANOAN PIRATES.--BOUNTY. + + "In this case a petition was presented by Sir Edward Belcher, + the captain, and the rest of the officers and crew of Her + Majesty's ship-of-war Samarang, setting forth that on the 3d of + June, 1844, the Samarang being then engaged in surveying duties, + and near the island of Gillolo, on her passage towards the + Straits of Patientia, Sir E. Belcher, with two officers and four + men, quitted her in the gig, accompanied by the second barge, + armed with a brass six-pounder gun and small arms, and manned + with twenty officers and men. While engaged on the extreme side + of a reef, extending from a small islet, in taking astronomical + observations, they were disturbed by an extraordinary yell + proceeding from about forty men of colour, who were advancing + from the islet along both sides of the reef, with the evident + intention of surrounding Sir E. Belcher and his party, on + nearing whom they commenced hurling spears and arrows, though + without effect. They were soon repulsed and put to flight by + musketry. In the course of the day several large prahus made + their appearance, manned by large crews of Malay pirates, and + severe conflicts took place between the respective parties, in + one of which a ball from the leading prahu struck Sir E. Belcher + on the thigh, and knocked him overboard, severely and + dangerously wounding him; but, having been lifted out of the + water, and dragged into the barge, _he shortly after resumed the + command_, and ultimately succeeded in destroying all the prahus. + + "Dr. Addams applied to the Court to award the bounties specified + in the 6th of George IV. c. 49. for the capture and destruction + of piratical ships and vessels. He submitted that the affidavits + produced clearly showed the character of the persons on board + the prahus, and that not less than 1,330 persons were alive on + board the several prahus at the beginning of the attack, 350 of + whom were killed. + + "The Queen's Advocate, on behalf of the Crown, admitted that a + very meritorious service had been performed, and made no + opposition to the application. + + "The Court pronounced for the usual bounties on the number of + pirates stated." + + [Footnote 1: The account of this transaction is taken from the + private log of one of the officers who was present in the barge + during the whole time. I was not there myself. In his narrative + it will be observed that he makes no mention of the natives who + came down upon them having _thrown spears_ at them, although in + the extract from the "Times" it is so stated. It would appear + also that there was some mistake as to the number of men on + board of the prahus and the number killed. A war prahu generally + contains from fifty to eighty men. Some are smaller, and + occasionally they are larger, but not often. Capt. Keppell + states fifty men to be the usual number in his work; and, in his + conflict with the pirates, estimates the force accordingly. Now + the first day there was one war prahu, which ran up a creek; + and, on being fired at, the crew deserted her. On the second day + there were five prahus, all captured. On the third day the five + prahus engaged were not captured, the boat returning to the ship + after the captain was wounded; so that in all it appears that + there were nine prahus; and, allowing eighty men to each, the + force would only amount to 720 men, or about one half of the + number stated, viz. 1330. How the killed, amounting to 350, or + about half the number, were arrived at and estimated, it is + impossible to say; but in the narrative of the officer, which I + have given, the major portion of the crews deserted the prahus + and got on shore.] + +Our captain having now nearly recovered from the wound which he had +received, we found that our destination was Borneo; but previous to the +ship getting under weigh, the boats were ordered to be manned and armed, +to proceed on an excursion to Romania Point, distant about thirty miles +from Sincapore. It was expected that we might there fall in with some of +the piratical vessels which so completely infest the Indian Archipelago; +and if so, we trusted to give them a lesson which might for a time put a +check to their nefarious and cruel system of plunder and rapine. I found +that my name was down in the list of the party selected for the +expedition. Bidding, therefore, a temporary adieu to Sincapore, on the +2d of August we set off on the expedition, with a force consisting of +two barges, one cutter, and a gun-boat belonging to the merchants of +Sincapore, which had been expressly built to resist any attacks of these +bold assailants. + +Although the real object of the expedition was, as I have above stated, +to fall in with the pirates, our ostensible one was to survey the +islands off the Point Romania, which is the most unfrequented part of +the Malay peninsula. We arrived there late at night, as ignorant whether +the pirates were there, as the pirates would have been of our arrival. +We had, therefore, nothing to do but to anchor close under the land, and +keep a sharp look-out, in case of being the attacked instead of the +attacking party. As we were not indifferently provided with the creature +comforts which Sincapore afforded, we amused ourselves pretty well; but +if we occasionally opened our mouths, we took good care not to shut our +eyes, and were constantly on the alert. There is a far from pleasant +feeling attached to lying in an open boat, in a night as dark as pitch, +expecting a momentary attack from an insidious enemy, and wholly in a +state of uncertainty as to from what quarter it may be made, or as to +what odds you may be exposed. Under these circumstances, we remained in +watching and silence during a night which appeared interminably long; +and daylight was gladly welcomed by the whole party; and when it arrived +we found ourselves anchored among a crowd of small islands, which were +covered from the beach to their summits with the most luxuriant foliage. +Within shore of us was a beautiful little sandy bay; while the whole +coast, as far as the eye could reach, was one extended jungle, by all +accounts extending many hundred miles inland, and infested with tigers +and other beasts of prey. As for pirates, we saw nothing of them, or any +signs of their having been in that quarter; either they were away on +some distant marauding party, or, having received intelligence of our +approach and force, had considered us too strong to be opposed, and had +kept out of the way. Our warlike expedition, therefore, was soon changed +into a sort of pic-nic party--we amused ourselves with bathing, turning +of turtle, shooting, and eating the wild pine-apples which grew on all +the islands. We remained there for three days, during which nothing +occurred worth narrating, unless it is an instance of the thoughtless +and reckless conduct of midshipmen. We were pulling leisurely along the +coast in one of the boats, when we perceived a very large Bengal tiger +taking an evening stroll, and who, by the motion of his tail, was +evidently in a state of much self-satisfaction. We winded the boat's +head towards him, and were preparing to give him a round of grape from +the gun, but before we could get the gun well pointed, he retreated +majestically into the jungle, which was in the bight of a small bay, and +cut off from the main jungle by some large rocks. Three of our party +immediately declared that they would have a tiger-hunt, and bring back +his skin as a trophy. They landed, two of them having each a ship's +musket, a very uncertain weapon, as they are at present provided, for, +whether from damp or careless manufacture, the percussion caps will not +often go off; and the third armed with nothing but a knife. On their +landing, they took their position on the rocks, and were delighted to +find that the tiger could not retreat to the main jungle without passing +them. They had not long taken up their position before they heard the +crackling of the wood in the jungle, announcing the tiger's approach +towards them. They fixed their bayonets and cocked their locks; the +young gentleman with the knife was also prepared; but the noise in the +jungle ceased. Whether it was that the tiger was afraid to attack three +at the same time, or was making a circuit for a more convenient spring +upon them, certain it is that our three young gentlemen either became +tired of waiting for him, or had thought better of their mad attempt. +One proposed returning to the boat, the others assented; and after +denouncing the tiger as a coward, and wholly unworthy of the name of a +royal tiger, they commenced their retreat as the dark set in; gradually +their pace quickened, in two minutes they were in a hard trot; at last +the panic took them all, and by the time they arrived at the boats they +could not speak from want of breath, so hurried had been their retreat. +We sincerely congratulated them upon their arrival safe and sound, and +having escaped without loss of life and limb from a very mad adventure. +I subsequently related this incident to an old Indian sportsman, who +told me that my messmates had had a most fortunate escape, as they would +have had little or no chance had the tiger made his spring, which he +certainly would have done had they remained much longer, and that one of +them at least must have been sacrificed. On the morning of the fourth +day, the ship, having made sail from Sincapore, hove in sight, and +picked us up. The boats were hoisted in, and we steered for Borneo, to +complete some surveys on the north-east coast. + +The island of Borneo, throughout the whole of the N. E. coast, is, with +few exceptions, a low land, covered with jungle; but so beautifully +verdant does it appear when viewed from some distance, that you would be +led to suppose that it was widely cultivated. This idea is, however, +soon dispelled on a near approach, when you discover the rich groups of +acacias, palms, pandani, and numerous trees as yet unknown, so luxuriant +in themselves, but forming one entangled mass, alike impenetrable to +European or native. What, in the distant view, we fancied a verdant +meadow, where we might relax from our long confinement, and amuse +ourselves with recreation, now proved to be ranges of long damp grass, +interspersed with swamps, and infested with venomous snakes. In short, I +never yet was on a coast which, on arriving on it, promised so much, +and, on landing, caused such a series of disappointments to those who +love to ramble about, than the coast of Borneo. To the naturalist, +however, confined as he is to the shelving beach, there is ample food +for employment and research: the island abounds in novel objects of +natural history, both in the animal and vegetable kingdom. + +Nothing certain is as yet ascertained relative to the interior of this +immense island, if island it can with propriety be called. From the +accounts of the natives (which, however, must be received with due +caution), it consists of a large plain, devoid of jungle, and inhabited +by cannibals. Two adventurous Dutchmen have latterly set off from +Pontiana, the Dutch settlement, on an excursion into the interior; but +it is doubtful if they succeed, where so many others have already +failed. + +[Illustration: KEENEY-BALLO. + +(OOSOKAN BAY, BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +Borneo has but small elevation for so large an island; in the immediate +vicinity of Keeney Ballu the country is hilly, but by far the greatest +portion of Borneo is but a few feet above the level of the sea. Keeney +Ballu is the highest mountain in the island,--its height is estimated at +14,000 feet or more,--and it can be seen at 150 miles distant on a very +clear day. It is very singular that there should be a mountain of so +great a height rising from an island of otherwise low land. Near Sarawak +there is mountainous country, where live the Dyaks, previously +described, and a mountain of the name of Santabong, which has already +been made mention of. On the S. E. coast of the island we saw no +elevation of land of any consequence. I have given a drawing of the +mountain of Keeney Ballu, distant forty miles. At this distance, with +the aid of the glass, you may perceive the numerous cascades which fall +from its summit in every direction. The Dyaks of Borneo imagine that a +lake exists at the top of this mountain, and that it is to be their +receptacle after death. + +As the island is in most parts a flat and marshy jungle, extending about +200 miles inland, and the rivers are not rapid, although numerous, it +would be presumed, especially as the dews of the night are very heavy, +that the island would be fatal to Europeans. Such, however, proved not +to be the case. During our repeated visits to the island (a period of +nearly two years), we only lost one man, by a most imprudent exposure +to the night air, sleeping in an open boat, without the awning being +spread, and exposed to a very heavy dew. + +Borneo abounds with rivers, some of them very fine, running inland for +one or two hundred miles. Most of these rivers have been taken +possession of and colonised by the various tribes indigenous to the +neighbouring isles and continent, to wit, Arabs, Malays, Illanoans, +Bughis, the natives of Celebes, Chinese, &c. The reason for this +emigration to Borneo is the protection afforded by these rivers; for as +all these tribes live entirely by piracy, they here find a safe retreat +for themselves and their vessels. How long ago their settlements may +have been first made, or what opposition they may have received from the +Dyak aborigines, it is impossible to say; but as most of the head men in +Borneo claim to be of Arab descent, it may be presumed that many years +must have elapsed since the aboriginal tribes of Dyaks and Dusums were +dispossessed of the rivers, and driven into the interior. Of these +people I shall speak hereafter; there is no doubt but that they were the +original inhabitants of the whole island, and that the various tribes I +have mentioned are but colonists for piratical purposes. + +These piratical hordes generally infest the high lands upon the shores +of these rivers, which are difficult of navigation; and, moreover, from +their numerous branches, their resorts are not very easily discovered. +These towns are fortified with stockades, guns of various calibre, and +the passage up the river defended by booms or piles of timber, which +admit of but one narrow passage for their prahus. + +It must be understood that these piratical hordes are not only +independent of each other, but often at war, in consequence of their +spoliations. Some of their chiefs have taken upon them the titles of +princes; and one has assumed, as is well known, that of Sultan of +Borneo, another of Sooloo,--how far entitled to such a rank it would be +difficult to say; but this is certain, that there must be a beginning +to every dynasty; and if we trace back far into history, we shall find, +both at home and abroad, that most dynasties have had their origin in +freebooting on a grand scale,--even the House of Hapsburg itself is +derived from no better an origin; and the Sultan of Borneo, whoever he +may be, and if a Sultan does exist, some 800 years hence will, by the +antiquity of his title, prove his high descent, as the German emperor +now does his own. + +On the 20th of August we came to an anchor at the mouth of the Sarawak +river, where we remained three weeks completing some very important +surveys. When our work was done, the captain, accompanied by several +officers, went up the river. + +On our arrival at Kuchin, we found the Dido corvette, commanded by +Captain Keppell, lying abreast of the town. We also found that Kuchin +was at present nearly deserted, as the Dido's boats, with the Phlegethon +steamer, and all the native war prahus which could be mustered, had +proceeded with Mr. Brooke to the Sakarron, a neighbouring river, to +punish some of the mixed tribes who had lately been detected in an act +of flagrant piracy. On the change of the tide we started for the +Sakarron, with the hope of gaining the Dido's boats, and rendering them +some assistance. Our men exerted themselves to the utmost; but it +requires time to pull eighty miles; and I will therefore, _en voyage_, +explain more fully the cause and the object of the expedition. + +The river Sakarron, with its tributaries, the Linga and Serebis, have +been for a long while in the possession of a proverbial piratical tribe +of Malays, governed by chiefs, who are of Arab descent, and much better +acquainted with the art of war than those lawless communions are in +general. Their towers and fastnesses on the banks of their rivers they +have contrived to fortify in a very superior manner. Living wholly by +the proceeds of their piratical excursions, and, aware of the efforts +made by the European rajah, Mr. Brooke, to put it down, they resolved to +take the first opportunity which might offer to show their hostility and +contempt to their new-raised enemy. The occasion soon presented itself. +Seven of the Kuchin Malays, having ventured in a canoe up the Sakarron +river, were all murdered, and their heads cut off, and kept, as usual, +as trophies; and the intelligence of this outrage communicated by them +to Mr. Brooke, with defiance. + +Captain Keppell, of the Dido, had just arrived at Sarawak when this news +was brought to Mr. Brooke. Captain Keppell had been sent by Admiral Sir +Thomas Cochrane to the island on purpose to look out for pirates, and to +destroy them and their nests wherever he could find them. He therefore +gladly offered his assistance to Mr. Brooke to punish these murderous +wretches; and the Phlegethon steamer coming in while they were preparing +for the expedition, was, of course, added to the force employed. This +fortunate accession of strength, assisted by all the Malay war boats +which Mr. Brooke could muster, enabled them to give an effectual check +to a band of pirates, so numerous and so warlike as to have become most +formidable. To proceed:-- + +That night we anchored with the last of the flood at the entrance of the +Sakarron. We had great fear, from the intelligence we had received from +time to time, from boats we fell in with on our passage, that we should +arrive too late to be partakers of the affray; and so it proved, for the +next morning, while proceeding higher up the river, we perceived a large +force of native boats coming down with the ebb, and all of them filled +to the gunwale with plunder. + +The Malay and Dyak canoes are made out of a hollowed tree, or, as they +are termed in many ports of India, "dug-outs." They are long and narrow, +and are capable of being propelled with great swiftness. Although very +easy to capsize, they are constantly loaded till so deep that at the +least inclination the water pours over the gunwale, and one man is +usually employed baling with a scoop made out of a banana leaf. Custom, +however, makes them so used to keep the equilibrium, that you often see +the Dyaks, whose canoes are similar to the Malays', standing upright and +propelling them with their spears. + +[Illustration: NATIVE BOAT--BORNEO.] + +The Malay war-boat, or _prahu_, is built of timber at the lower part, +the upper is of bamboo, rattan, and kedgang (the dried leaf of the Nepa +palm). Outside the bends, about a foot from the water line, runs a +strong gallery, in which the rowers sit cross-legged. At the after-part +of the boat is a cabin for the chief who commands, and the whole of the +vessel is surmounted by a strong flat roof, upon which they fight, their +principal weapons being the kris and spear, both of which, to be used +with effect, require elbow-room. + +The Dyak war-boat is a long built canoe, more substantially constructed +than the prahu of the Malays, and sufficiently capacious to hold from +seventy to eighty men. This also has a roof to fight from. They are +generally painted, and the stern ornamented with feathers. + +Both descriptions of war-boats are remarkably swift, notwithstanding +such apparent top-weight. To proceed:-- + +[Illustration: DYAK WAR PRAHU.] + +We hove to, to speak to those on board of the canoes, and were informed +by them that the pirates had sustained a severe defeat, and that the +European force was about to descend the river on their return to Kuchin. +As a proof of the victory having been gained, they produced several +heads which had been taken in the fight. + +We proceeded about six miles further up the river, when we discovered +the European boats and crews lying at anchor abreast of the smoking +ruins of what had been a Malay town. Here we learnt that the pirates had +been completely routed, after a desperate resistance, that four large +towns had been burnt, and seventy-five brass guns of the country, called +leilas, had been captured. The victory, however, had not been gained +without loss on our side, and had the pirates been better prepared, we +must have suffered much more. Several of the people of Kuchin had been +killed, and of Europeans we had to lament the loss of Mr. Wade, first +lieutenant of the Dido, and formerly of the Samarang, and Mr. Stewart, +one of the residents at Kuchin; the latter gentleman lost his life by an +excess of zeal which quite overcame all prudence. Mr. Wade had landed +with his men after an attack and capture of a fort, and when in advance +received a bullet in the heart. He fell instantly dead; his body was +recovered by his shipmates, and borne to the boat, and during a +temporary cessation of hostilities was conveyed to the river. His loss +was much deplored by his shipmates in both vessels, by whom he was +respected as an officer, and beloved as a friend. + +Mr. Stewart, pulling in advance in a small canoe, with some of the +natives belonging to Kuchin, was suddenly pounced upon by three or four +of the enemy's prahus full of men. They ran down the canoe, and thus +were Mr. Stewart and his companions at their mercy. Mercy!--a wrong term +to use when speaking of those who never show any. They were all krissed, +to the number of seventeen, in sight of their companions in the other +boats, who were too far behind to arrive in time to render them any +assistance, although it hardly need be said that every effort was made. +The last that was seen of poor Stewart was his body being carried by one +of the Dyaks into the jungle by the side of the river, and the fellow +was so anxious to obtain the much-valued trophy of a white man's head, +that, as he bore it along, he kept his knife sawing at the head to sever +it from the body. Indeed, so much do these people value a white man's +head, that they will build a separate room on purpose to contain it. + +Whilst lying at this place, riding to a strong flood tide, a canoe +floated past us, in which we could discern two dead bodies; they were +both dressed as Malays, and the garments were good. Over the bows of the +canoe there hung a handsomely ornamented kris. We tried to hook the +canoe with the boat-hook, but the strength of the tide was so great that +we could not succeed in securing it, and it floated away with the +stream. We presumed that they were the bodies of some of the Malays +killed in the recent conflict, who probably inhabited a higher portion +of the river, and that they had been put into the canoe by their friends +to be carried home, and had been swept away by the tide from not having +been securely fastened, for nothing would have induced the enemy thus to +make us a present of _two heads_. + +"We weighed, in company with the steamer and boats, on the same evening, +and returned to Kuchin, where we arrived on the following day. The +men-of-war boats having been towed by the steamer, we arrived some time +before the native prahus belonging to the river, which had accompanied +us. On the following day they arrived, and the scene was novel and +interesting. They all rounded the point together, dressed out with flags +of all descriptions, beating their gongs and tom-toms, and firing blank +cartridges from their "Leilas." Highly elated with their victory, and +with the plunder which had accompanied it, they celebrated it by all +getting excessively drunk that night upon shamsoo. + +We remained at Kuchin for three days, enjoying Mr. Brooke's hospitality; +and during that time it was proposed and arranged that we should pay a +visit to the river Loondoo, the residence of a very remarkable tribe of +Dyaks under Mr. Brooke's authority; but not being able to fix the exact +period for the visit, on that night we returned to the ship. + +We had not been much more than twenty-four hours on board, when the +captain, who had been away, returned at midnight; and, at this unusual +hour, ordered all the boats, manned and armed, to be piped away +immediately. We were informed that the river Sakarron was again our +destination; and at four o'clock in the morning we started, with +fourteen days' provisions, and armed to the teeth, to join the Dido's +boats at the mouth of the river Morotabis, from thence to be towed with +them by the steamer to our destination. The cause of this new expedition +was the intelligence that the Arab chief, Serib Saib, who had escaped +during the late conflict, had returned to the Sakarron to collect +together and re-organize his piratical subjects. We soon arrived at the +same spot which we had before visited when the town had been burnt down; +but the expedition proved to be one of little interest. Notwithstanding +his threats, Serib Saib's confidence gave way at the approach of our +force, and he made a precipitate retreat up the river, accompanied by +four or five hundred of his warriors. Nevertheless, we continued to +force our way up the river, with the expectation that, when fairly at +bay, he would make a stand. Our advance was made known to the enemy by +fires lighted on the different hills abreast of the boats. This speedy +mode of communication is adopted by all the natives in this part of the +world. Determined not to abandon the pursuit while a chance remained, we +followed the redoubtable Serib Saib for eighty miles up the river, which +in some parts was too narrow for our boats' crews to make use of their +oars; but all obstacles were overcome in the ardour of the chase. + +To impede our progress, large trees had been felled so as to fall across +the river where it was narrow; but these were removed, and we forced our +way on. At last the river, as we approached the source, became little +wider than a ditch, the barges grounded, and could proceed no farther; +the gigs only could float, and we continued, till, after forty-eight +hours of severe labour, we found ourselves at the head of the river; and +we also discovered that Serib Saib had escaped, having with his whole +force landed, and made his way through the jungle into the interior, +leaving at our disposal the forty war canoes which had carried him and +his men. To follow him was impossible; so we were obliged to content +ourselves with the capture of the war canoes, which were all that we had +to show for our exertions. Disappointed, and hungry withal, we were not +sorry to find ourselves once more with our heads down the river. + +I must not omit, however, to narrate a little trick played upon our +gallant captain. I have stated that the river was so narrow near its +source that we could not use the oars, and the gigs, which continued the +pursuit, had to be hauled through the bushes by the boat-hooks. +Returning to where the larger boats had been left aground, our bow-man, +who was employed shooting the gig along by such aid as the branches of +the trees, or the tendrils which hung to them, afforded him, stuck his +boat-hook into what appeared to be a suspended ball of moss; but he soon +discovered that it was something more, as it was a nest of hornets, +which sallied out in great numbers, and resented the insult to their +domicile by attacking the bowman first, as the principal aggressor, and +us afterwards, as parties concerned. Now the sting of a hornet is no +joke; we covered our faces with our handkerchiefs, or any thing we could +find, and made a hasty retreat from the spot, pushing the gig down the +stream, till we were clear of their attacks. In the hurry of our escape +we left the boat-hook hanging in the hornet's nest, and not feeling at +all inclined to go back for it, we hailed the captain's gig, which was +following us, and requested very humbly that they would be pleased to +recover our boat-hook for us, as we could not well re-ascend the stream +from the want of it. As we did not mention that it was so peculiarly +situated, the captain saw no objection, and as they came to where it +hung, his bow-man caught hold of the staff, and wrested it from its +position; but this time such force was used that the tendril gave way, +and the nest itself fell down into the boat, and the irritated insects +poured out their whole force to revenge this second aggression. The +insects after all appeared to have a knowledge of the service, for they +served out their stings in the same proportion as the prize-money is +divided: the captain came in for his full share. + +Returning rather in a bad humour at having had so long a pull for +nothing, we anchored off a fortified Malay town, which went by the name +of Bintang, and which had been brought to terms by Captain Keppell on a +previous expedition up the river. The people had consequently remained +neutral, although it was well known that they were not to be trusted, +and that, had we been defeated above and beaten back, they would, in all +probability, have attacked us in the rear. As the evening closed in, by +way of astonishing the natives, and giving them some idea of our perfect +equipment, the boats were directed to give a _feu-de-joie_. Some fifteen +guns, with rockets, port-fires, blue lights, supported by a +well-sustained roulade of musketry, had a very warlike effect; and, no +doubt, gave the natives an impression of our superiority in the use of +fire-arms. At the conclusion, Captain Keppell, who was always ready for +fun, gave out the order that all hands were to join in "God save the +Queen," taking the time from him. A dead silence was immediately +produced, waiting for him to lead off, which he did; but, to our great +amusement, he, by mistake, commenced with "Rule Britannia;" and this, +being more to the seamen's taste, certainly, as far as lungs were +concerned, was done most ample justice to. + +The saying is, "No song no supper;" of course it must be presumed that a +song deserves a supper. It proved so in this instance; for just as the +chorus was hushed, the Sultan of Bintang, as he styles himself, sent off +to the head boat (the one I happened to be in) a superb supper for seven +people, consisting of seven bronze trays, each tray containing about a +dozen small plates, in which were many varieties of flesh and fowl +cooked in a very superior manner. To each tray was a spoon, made of the +yellow leaf of some tree unknown; but, as specimens of primitive +elegance and utility combined, they were matchless. We had some doubts, +from our knowledge of the treachery of the Malays, whether we should +fall to upon these appetising viands, as there was no saying but that +they might be poisoned. Mr. Brooke, however, who, although not the +commandant, was the mentor of the party, explained that he invariably +observed one rule when treating and dealing with these people,--which +was, never to exhibit any unworthy suspicion of them, as, by so doing, +they became convinced of our own integrity and honour. That this +confidence might have, in many instances, proved dangerous, unless +adopted with great caution, must be admitted; but in our relations with +the people on the rivers of Borneo it was of great service. The Malays +are so very suspicious themselves, that nothing but confidence on your +part will remove the feeling; and, in treating with Malays, this is the +first object to be obtained. The remarks of Mr. Brooke, which were not a +little assisted by the tempting nature of the viands, and no small +degree of hunger, had the effect, and the trays were all cleared out in +consequence. + +While I was in this river I was capsized by a _bore_. This, I must +explain to my non-nautical readers, is a huge rolling wave, which is as +upright as a wall, and travels almost as fast as a locomotive. It is +occasioned by the flood tide pouring in and overcoming the feeders to +the river, forcing them back to their source. On this occasion I was +pulling down the river in a small gig, following the other boats, which +had turned up another branch of it, when I perceived it rapidly +advancing, and making a noise not unlike the animal of the same name, +only a great deal louder. Had I been steering a straight course down the +river I should have faced it, and probably have got off with the boat +half full of water; but I calculated upon reaching the point and +entering the branch of the river before its arrival. But I had not +calculated upon its speed, and a strong eddy current at the point was +wicked enough to draw our boat broadside to the middle of the stream. + +The wall of water rushed on us, turned us over and over; but fortunately +by its force it also threw us all, with the gig, upon the point. It did +not, however, throw us our oars, which were performing a _pas de quatre_ +in a whirlpool close to us. This was a narrow escape, as, had we +remained in the agitated waters, the alligators would soon have dragged +us under. For two minutes the river was in a state of ebullition, but +gradually subsided. We then launched the boat, regained our oars, and +proceeded to join our comrades. Thankful as we were for our lives having +been preserved, still as we were wet through and had lost all our +provisions and necessaries, we were compelled to admit that it was a +very great bore. + +Shortly after our leaving this river a fatal accident happened to one of +our best men. The wind was blowing a heavy gale from the westward, +accompanied by thunder and lightning, such as is only to be seen and +heard on the coast of Borneo. The carpenters were on shore felling trees +for masts and yards, and as we were anchored some distance from the +shore a tent was pitched for their accommodation. They had not been in +the tent long when a large iron-wood tree was struck by lightning, and +fell, burying one of the carpenters, Miller by name, in the sand +underneath it. He was extricated with great difficulty; but before any +surgical assistance could be rendered him he was a corpse. On +examination most of his bones were found to be crushed. + +Soon after our return from the Sakarron the expedition to Loondoo was +arranged, and we started in the barge and gig, accompanied by Captain +Keppell in his own boat, and Mr. Brooke and Hentig in one of the native +boats, called a Tam-bang. The distance was about forty miles, and we +should have arrived at four o'clock in the afternoon, but, owing to the +narrowness of the channel, and a want of knowledge of the river, we +grounded on the flats, where we lay high and dry for the space of four +hours. Floating with the following tide, we discovered the proper +channel, and found our way up the river, although the night was dark as +pitch: when near the town, we anchored for daylight. + +I may as well here give a slight description of the scenery on the +Borneo rivers, all of which, that we have visited, with the exception of +the Bruni, bear a close resemblance to each other. They are far from +picturesque or beautiful, for the banks are generally low, and the +jungle invariably extends to the water's edge. For the first fifteen or +twenty miles the banks are lined with the nepa-palms, which then +gradually disappear, leaving the mangrove alone to clothe the sides of +the stream. When you enter these rivers, it is rare to see any thing +like a human habitation for many miles; reach after reach, the same +double line of rich foliage is presented, varying only in the +description of trees and bushes as the water becomes more fresh; now and +then a small canoe may be seen rounding a point, or you may pass the +stakes which denote that formerly there had been a fishing station. At +last a hut appears on the bank, probably flanked with one or two Banana +trees. You turn into the next reach and suddenly find yourself close to +one or more populous and fortified towns. As you ascend higher the +scenery becomes much more interesting and varied from the mangroves +disappearing. Few of the rivers of Borneo are more than eighty miles in +extent. The two rivers of Bruni and Coran are supposed to meet in the +centre of the island, although for many miles near their source they are +not much wider than a common ditch. + +Before day-light of the following morning our slumbers were disturbed +by the crowing of a whole army of cocks, which assured us of the +proximity of the town we were in search of. We got under weigh, and, +rounding the point, Loondoo hove in sight, a fine town, built in a grove +of cocoa-nut trees, and by no means despicably fortified. We found our +progress arrested by a boom composed of huge trees fastened together by +coir cables, and extending the whole width of the river. Had our +intentions been hostile, it would have taken some time to have cut the +fastenings of this boom, and we should, during the operation, have been +exposed to a double line of fire from two forts raised on each side of +the river. The Chief of Loondoo had, however, been duly advised of our +intended visit, and as soon as our boats were seen from the town, a +head-man was sent out in a canoe to usher us in. After a little delay we +got the barge within the boom. When within, we found that we had further +reason to congratulate ourselves that we came as friends, as the raking +fire from the forts would have been most effectual, for we discovered +that we had to pass an inner boom equally well secured as the first. The +town was surrounded by a strong stockade made of the trunks of the +knee-bone palm, a wood superior in durability to any known. This +stockade had but one opening of any dimensions. A few strokes of the +oars brought us abreast of it, and we let go our anchors. The eldest son +of the Chief came to us immediately in a canoe. He was a splendidly +formed young man, about twenty-five years old. He wore his hair long and +flowing, his countenance was open and ingenuous, his eyes black and +knowing. His dress was a light blue velvet jacket without sleeves, and a +many-coloured sash wound round his waist. His arms and legs, which were +symmetrical to admiration, were naked, but encircled with a profusion of +heavy brass rings. He brought a present of fowls, cocoa-nuts, and +bananas to Mr. Brooke from his father, and an invitation for us to pay +him a visit at his house whenever we should feel inclined. + +[Illustration: DYAK WOMEN IN CANOE.] + +Preparatory to landing, we began performing our ablutions in the boat, +much to the amusement and delight of the naked groups of Dyaks who were +assembled at the landing place, and who eyed us in mute astonishment. +The application of a hair brush was the signal for a general burst of +laughter, but cleaning the teeth with a tooth brush caused a scream of +wonder, a perfect yell, I presume at our barbarous customs. There were +many women among the groups; they appeared to be well made, and more +than tolerably good looking. I need not enter into a very minute +description of their attire, for, truth to say, they had advanced very +little beyond the costume of our common mother Eve. We were soon in +closer contact with them, for one of our party throwing out of the boat +a common black bottle, half a dozen of the women plunged into the stream +to gain possession of it. They swam to the side of our boat without any +reserve, and then a struggle ensued as to who should be the fortunate +owner of the prize. It was gained by a fine young girl of about +seventeen years of age, and who had a splendid pair of black eyes. She +swam like a frog, and with her long hair streaming in the water behind +her, came pretty well up to our ideas of a mermaid. + +As we had contrived to empty a considerable number of these bottles +during our expedition, they were now thrown overboard in every +direction. This occasioned a great increase of the floating party, it +being joined by all the other women on the beach, and for more than half +an hour we amused ourselves with the exertions and contentions of our +charming naiads, to obtain what they appeared to prize so much; at last +all our empty bottles were gone, and the women swam on shore with them, +as much delighted with their spoil as we had been amused with their +eagerness and activity. + +About 10 o'clock we landed, and proceeded to pay our visit to the Chief. +We were ushered into a spacious house, built of wood and thatched with +leaves, capable of containing at least 400 people. The Chief was sitting +on a mat with his three sons by his side, and attended by all his +warriors. The remainder of the space within was occupied by as many of +the natives as could find room; those who could not, remained in the +court-yard outside. The Chief, who was a fine looking grey-bearded man +of about sixty years of age, was dressed in velvet, and wore on his head +a turban of embroidered silk. The three sons were dressed in the way I +have already described the one to have been who came to us in the canoe. +Without exception, those three young men were the most symmetrical in +form I have ever seen. The unrestrained state of nature in which these +Dyaks live, gives to them a natural grace and an easiness of posture, +which is their chief characteristic. After the usual greetings and +salutations had been passed through, we all sat down on mats and +cushions which had been arranged for us; a short conversation with Mr. +Brooke, who speaks the language fluently, then took place between him +and the Chief, after which refreshments were set before us. These +consisted of various eatables and sweetmeats made of rice, honey, sugar, +flour, and oil; and although very simple as a confectionery, they were +very palatable. We remained with the Chief about an hour, and before we +went away he requested our company in the evening, promising to treat us +with a Dyak war dance. We took our leave for the present, and amused +ourselves with strolling about the town. I will take this opportunity of +making known some information I have at this and at different times +obtained relative to this people. + +The villages of the Dyaks are always built high up, near the source of +the rivers, or, should the river below be occupied by the piratical +tribes, on the hills adjoining to the source. Their houses are very +large, capable of containing two hundred people, and are built of palm +leaves. A village or town may consist of fifteen or twenty houses. +Several families reside in one house, divided from each other by only a +slight partition of mats. Here they take their meals, and employ +themselves, without interfering with each other. Their furniture and +property are very simple, consisting of a few cooking utensils, the +paddles of their canoes, their arms, and a few mats. + +In all the Dyak villages every precaution is taken to guard against +surprise. I have already described the strength and fortifications of +Loondoo, and a similar principle is every where adopted. The town being +built on the banks of the river, the boom I have described is invariably +laid across the stream to prevent the ascent of boats. Commanding the +barriers, one or more forts are built on an eminence, mounting within +them five or six of the native guns, called leilas. The forts are +surrounded by a strong stockade, which is surmounted by a +cheveaux-de-frise of split bamboos. These stockaded forts are, with the +houses and cocoa nuts adjoining, again surrounded by a strong stockade, +which effectually secures them from any night attack. + +Great respect is paid to the laws and to the mandates of their Chiefs, +although it but too often happens that, stimulated by revenge, or other +passions, they take the law into their own hands; but if crimes are +committed, they are not committed without punishment following them, and +some of their punishments are very barbarous and cruel: I have seen a +woman with both her hands half-severed at the wrists, and a man with +both his ears cut off. + +The religious ideas of the Dyaks resemble those of the North American +Indians: they acknowledge a Supreme Being, or "Great Spirit;" they have +also some conception of an hereafter. Many of the tribes imagine that +the great mountain Keney Balloo is a place of punishment for guilty +departed souls. They are very scrupulous regarding their cemeteries, +paying the greatest respect to the graves of their ancestors. When a +tribe quits one place to reside at another, they exhume the bones of +their relations, and take them with them. + +I could not discover if they had any marriage ceremony, but they are +very jealous of their wives, and visit with great severity any +indiscretion on their parts. + +The Dyaks live principally upon rice, fish, and fruit, and they are very +moderate in their living. They extract shamshoo from the palm, but +seldom drink it Their principal luxury consists in the chewing the +betel-nut and chunam; a habit in which, like all the other inhabitants +of these regions, from Arracan down to the island of New Guinea, they +indulge to excess. This habit is any thing but becoming, as it renders +the teeth quite black, and the lips of a high vermilion, neither of +which alterations is any improvement to a copper-coloured face. + +They both chew and smoke tobacco, but they do not use pipes for smoking; +they roll up the tobacco in a strip of dried leaf, take three or four +whiffs, emitting the smoke through their nostrils, and then they +extinguish it. They are fond of placing a small roll of tobacco between +the upper lip and gums, and allow it to remain there for hours. Opium is +never used by them, and I doubt if they are acquainted with its +properties. + +They seldom cultivate more land than is requisite for the rice, yams, +and sago for their own consumption, their time being chiefly employed in +hunting and fishing. They appear to me to be far from an industrious +race of people, and I have often observed hundreds of fine-looking +fellows lolling and sauntering about, seeming to have no cares beyond +the present. Some tribes that I visited preferred obtaining their rice +in exchange from others, to the labour of planting it themselves. They +are, in fact, not agriculturally inclined, but always ready for barter. + +They are middle-sized, averaging five feet five inches, but very +strong-built and well-conditioned, and with limbs beautifully +proportioned. In features they differ very much from the piratical +inhabitants of these rivers. The head is finely formed, the hair, +slightly shaven in front, is all thrown to the back of the head; their +cheek-bones are high, eyes small, black and piercing, nose not exactly +flat--indeed in some cases I have seen it rather aquiline; the mouth is +large, and lips rather thick, and there is a total absence of hair on +the face and eyebrows. Now the above description is not very much unlike +that of an African; and yet they are very unlike, arising, I believe, +from the very pleasing and frank expression of their countenances, which +is their only beauty. This description, however, must not be considered +as applicable to the whole of these tribes,--those on the S. E. coast of +the island being by no means so well-favoured. + +[Illustration: SEREBIS DYAK. + +(N. W. COAST OF BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The different tribes are more distinguishable by their costumes than by +their manners. The Dyaks of Loondoo are quite naked, and cover the arms +and legs with brass rings. Those of Serebis and Linga are remarkable for +wearing as many as ten to fifteen large rings in their ears. The Dusums, +a tribe of Dyaks on the north coast, wear immense rings of solid tin or +copper round their hips and shoulders, while the Saghai Dyaks of the S. +E. are dressed in tigers' skins and rich cloth, with splendid +head-dresses, made out of monkeys' skins and the feathers of the Argus +pheasant. + +[Illustration: TEETH OF DYAKS.] + +The invariable custom of filing the teeth sharp, combined with the use +of the betel-nut turning them quite black, gives their profile a very +strange appearance. Sometimes they render their teeth concave by +filing. + +[Illustration: COSTUMES OF DYAK WOMEN.] + +[Illustration: SUM-PI-TAN--BLOW-PIPE WITH POISONED ARROWS.] + +Their arms consist of the blow-pipe (sum-pi-tan), from which they eject +small arrows, poisoned with the juice of the upas; a long sharp knife, +termed pa-rang; a spear, and a shield. They are seldom without their +arms, for the spear is used in hunting, the knife for cutting leaves, +and the sum-pi-tan for shooting small birds. Their warfare is carried on +more by treachery and stratagem than open fighting--they are all +warriors, and seldom at peace. The powerful tribes which reside on the +banks of the river generally possess several war prahus, capable of +holding from twenty to thirty men, and mounting a brass gun (leila) on +her bows, carrying a ball of one to two pounds weight. These prahus, +when an expedition is to be made against a neighbouring tribe, are +manned by the warriors, one or two of the most consequential men being +stationed in each prahu. Before they start upon an expedition, like the +North American Indians, they perform their war dance. + +[Illustration: SAGHAI DYAK. + +(S. E. COAST OF BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +Should their enemies have gained intelligence of the meditated attack, +they take the precaution of sending away their women, children, and +furniture, into the jungle, and place men in ambush on the banks of the +river, who attack the assailants as they advance. The Dyaks are all very +brave, and fight desperately, yelling during the combat like the +American Indians. The great object in their combats is to obtain as many +of the heads of the party opposed as possible; and if they succeed in +their surprise of the town or village, the heads of the women and +children are equally carried off as trophies. But there is great +difficulty in obtaining a head, for the moment that a man falls every +effort is made by his own party to carry off the body, and prevent the +enemy from obtaining such a trophy. If the attacking party are +completely victorious, they finish their work of destruction by setting +fire to all the houses, and cutting down all the cocoa-nut trees; after +which they return home in triumph with their spoil. As soon as they +arrive another war dance is performed; and after making very merry, they +deposit the heads which they have obtained in the head-house. Now, +putting scalps for heads, the reader will perceive that their customs +are nearly those of the American Indians. + +Every Dyak village has its head-house: it is generally the hall of +audience as well. The interior is decorated with heads piled up in +pyramids to the roof: of course the greater the number of heads the more +celebrated they are as warriors. + +[Illustration: DYAK VILLAGE.] + +The women of the north-east coast are by no means bad-looking, but very +inferior to the mountain Dyaks before described. I have seen one or two +faces which might be considered as pretty. With the exception of a +cloth, which is secured above the hips with a hoop of rattan, and +descends down to the knees, they expose every other portion of their +bodies. Their hair, which is fine and black, generally falls down +behind. Their feet are bare. Like the American squaws, they do all the +drudgery, carry the water, and paddle the canoes. They generally fled at +our approach, if we came unexpectedly. The best looking I ever saw was +one we captured on the river Sakarron. She was in a dreadful fright, +expecting every moment to be killed, probably taking it for granted that +we had our head-houses to decorate as well as their husbands. While +lying off the town of Baloongan, expecting hostilities to ensue, we +observed that the women who came down to fill their bamboos with water +were all armed. + +And now to resume the narrative of our proceedings:-- + +I stated that after our interview with the old chief, and promising to +return in the evening to witness a war dance, we proceeded on a stroll, +accompanied by the chiefs eldest son, who acted as our guide, and +followed by a large party of the natives. We first examined the forts: +these were in a tolerable state of efficiency, but their gunpowder was +coarse and bad. We next went over the naval arsenal, for being then at +peace with every body, their prahus were hauled up under cover of sheds. +One of them was a fine boat, about forty feet long, mounting a gun, and +capable of containing forty or fifty men. She was very gaily decorated +with paint and feathers, and had done good service on the Sakarron river +in a late war. These war prahus have a flat strong roof, from which they +fight, although they are wholly exposed to the spears and arrows of the +enemy. + +We then invaded their domestic privacy, by entering the houses, and +proceeded to an inspection of the blacksmith's shop, where we found the +chiefs youngest son, with his velvet jacket thrown aside, working away +at a piece of iron, which he was fashioning into a pa-rang, or Dyak +knife. The Dyak pa-rang has been confounded with the Malay kris, but +they differ materially. The Dyaks, I believe, seldom use the kris, and +the Malays never use the knife; and I observed, when we visited the +south coast of Borneo, that the knife and other arms of the tribes +inhabiting this portion, were precisely similar to those of the Dyaks on +the northern coast. Customs so universal and so strictly adhered to +proves not only individuality, but antiquity. Having examined every +thing and every body, we were pretty well tired, and were not sorry that +the hour had now arrived at which we were again to repair to the house +of the rajah. + +On our arrival we found the rajah where we left him, and all the chief +men and warriors assembled. Refreshments had been prepared for us, and +we again swallowed various mysterious confections, which, as I before +observed, would have been very good if we had been hungry. As soon as +the eatables had been despatched, we lighted our cheroots, and having, +by a dexterous and unperceived application out of a brandy bottle, +succeeded in changing the rajah's lemonade into excellent punch, we +smoked and drank until the rajah requested to know if we were ready to +witness the promised war dance. Having expressed our wishes in the +affirmative, the music struck up; it consisted of gongs and tom-toms. +The Malay gong, which the Dyaks also make use of, is like the Javanese, +thick with a broad rim, and very different from the gong of the Chinese. +Instead of the clanging noise of the latter, it gives out a muffled +sound of a deep tone. The gong and tom-tom are used by the Dyaks and +Malays in war, and for signals at night, and the Dyaks procure them from +the Malays. I said that the music struck up, for, rude as the +instruments were, they modulate the sound, and keep time so admirably, +that it was any thing but inharmonious. + +A space was now cleared in the centre of the house, and two of the +oldest warriors stepped into it. They were dressed in turbans, long +loose jackets, sashes round their waists descending to their feet, and +small bells were attached to their ankles. They commenced by first +shaking hands with the rajah, and then with all the Europeans present, +thereby giving us to understand, as was explained to us, that the dance +was to be considered only as a spectacle, and not to be taken in its +literal sense, as preparatory to an attack upon us, a view of the case +in which we fully coincided with them. + +[Illustration: WAR DANCE OF THE DYAKS. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS] + +This ceremony being over, they rushed into the centre and gave a most +unearthly scream, then poising themselves on one foot they described a +circle with the other, at the same time extending their arms like the +wings of a bird, and then meeting their hands, clapping them and keeping +time with the music. After a little while the music became louder, and +suddenly our ears were pierced with the whole of the natives present +joining in the hideous war cry. Then the motions and the screams of the +dancers became more violent, and every thing was working up to a state +of excitement by which even we were influenced. Suddenly a very +unpleasant odour pervaded the room, already too warm from the numbers it +contained. Involuntarily we held our noses, wondering what might be the +cause, when we perceived that one of the warriors had stepped into the +centre and suspended round the shoulders of each dancer a human head in +a wide meshed basket of rattan. These heads had been taken in the late +Sakarron business, and were therefore but a fortnight old. They were +encased in a wide net work of rattan, and were ornamented with beads. +Their stench was intolerable, although, as we discovered upon after +examination, when they were suspended against the wall, they had been +partially baked and were quite black. The teeth and hair were quite +perfect, the features somewhat shrunk, and they were altogether very +fair specimens of pickled heads; but our worthy friends required a +lesson from the New Zealanders in the art of preserving. The appearance +of the heads was the signal for the music to play louder, for the war +cry of the natives to be more energetic, and for the screams of the +dancers to be more piercing. Their motions now became more rapid, and +the excitement in proportion. Their eyes glistened with unwonted +brightness. The perspiration dropped down their faces, and thus did +yelling, dancing, gongs, and tom-toms become more rapid and more violent +every minute, till the dancing warriors were ready to drop. A farewell +yell, with emphasis, was given by the surrounding warriors; immediately +the music ceased, the dancers disappeared, and the tumultuous excitement +and noise was succeeded by a dead silence. Such was the excitement +communicated, that when it was all over we ourselves remained for some +time panting to recover our breath. Again we lighted our cheroots and +smoked for a while the pipe of peace. + +A quarter of an hour elapsed and the preparations were made for another +martial dance. This was performed by two of the rajah's sons, the same +young men I have previously made mention of. They came forward each +having on his arm one of the large Dyak shields, and in the centre of +the cleared space were two long swords lying on the floor. The ceremony +of shaking hands, as described preparatory to the former dance, was +first gone through; the music then struck up and they entered the arena. +At first they confined themselves to evolutions of defence, springing +from one side to the other with wonderful quickness, keeping their +shields in front of them, falling on one knee and performing various +feats of agility. After a short time, they each seized a sword, and then +the display was very remarkable, and proved what ugly customers they +must be in single conflict. Blows in every direction, feints of every +description, were made by both, but invariably received upon the +shields. Cumbrous as these shields were, no opening was ever left, +retreating, pursuing, dodging, and striking, the body was never exposed. +Occasionally, during this performance, the war cry was given by the +surrounding warriors, but the combatants held their peace; in fact they +could not afford to open their mouths, lest an opening should be made. +It was a most masterly performance, and we were delighted with it. + +As the evening advanced into night, we had a sort of extemporary drama, +reminding us of one of the dances, as they are called, of the American +Indians, in which the warriors tell their deeds of prowess. This was +performed by two of the principal and oldest warriors, who appeared in +long white robes, with long staves in their hands. They paraded up and +down the centre, alternately haranguing each other; the subject was the +praise of their own rulers, a relation of their own exploits, and an +exhortation to the young warriors to emulate their deeds. This +performance was most tedious; it lasted for about three hours, and, as +we could not understand a word that was said, it was not peculiarly +interesting. It, however, had one good effect: it sent us all asleep. I +fell asleep before the others, I am told; very possible. I certainly +woke up the first, and on waking, found that all the lights were out, +and that the rajah and the whole company had disappeared, with the +exception of my European friends, who were all lying around me. My +cheroot was still in my mouth, so I re-lighted it and smoked it, and +then again lay down by the side of my companions. Such was the wind-up +of our visit to the rajah, who first excited us by his melodramas, and +then sent us to sleep with his recitations. + +The next morning, at daylight, we repaired to our boats, and when all +was ready took leave of the old rajah. The rajah's eldest son had +promised to accompany us to the mouth of the river, and show us how the +natives hunted the wild pigs, which are very numerous in all the jungles +of Borneo. + +We got under weigh and proceeded down the river accompanied by a large +canoe, which was occupied by the rajah's son, six or seven hunters, and +a pack of the dogs used in hunting the wild boar on this island. These +dogs were small, but very wiry, with muzzles like foxes, and curling +tails. Their hair was short, and of a tan colour. Small as they are, +they are very bold, and one of them will keep a wild pig at bay till the +hunters come up to him. + +[Illustration: OBTAINING FIRE.] + +We arrived at the hunting ground at the mouth of the river in good time, +before the scent was off, and landed in the _Tam-bang_. Our captain +having a survey to make of an island at the mouth of the river, to our +great delight took away the barge and gig, leaving Mr. Brooke, Hentig, +Captain Keppell, Adams, and myself, to accompany the rajah's son. Having +arranged that the native boat should pull along the coast in the +direction that we were to walk, and having put on board the little that +we had collected for our dinners, we shouldered our guns and followed +the hunters and dogs. The natives who accompanied us were naked, and +armed only with a spear. They entered the jungle with the dogs, rather +too fatiguing an exercise for us, and we contented ourselves with +walking along the beach abreast of them, waiting very patiently for the +game to be started. In a very few minutes the dogs gave tongue, and as +the noise continued we presumed that a boar was on foot; nor were we +wrong in our conjecture; the barking of the dogs ceased, and one of the +hunters came out of the jungle to us with a fine pig on his back, which +he had transfixed with his spear. Nor were we long without our share of +the sport, for we suddenly came upon a whole herd which had been driven +out of the jungle, and our bullets did execution. We afterwards had more +shots, and with what we killed on the beach, and the natives secured in +the jungle, as the evening advanced we found ourselves in possession of +eight fine grown animals. These the rajah's son and his hunters very +politely requested our acceptance of. We now had quite sufficient +materials for our dinner, and as we were literally as hungry as +hunters, we were most anxious to fall to, and looked upon our pigs with +very cannibal eyes. The first thing necessary was to light a fire, and +for the first time I had an opportunity of seeing the Dyak way of +obtaining it. It differs slightly from the usual manner, and is best +explained by a sketch. Captain Keppell, who was always the life and soul +of every thing, whether it was a fight or a pic nic, was unanimously +elected caterer, and in that capacity he was most brilliant. I must +digress a little to bestow upon that officer the meed of universal +opinion; for his kindness, mirth, and goodness of heart, have rendered +him a favourite wherever he has been known, not only a favourite with +the officers, but even more so, if possible, with the men. In the +expeditions in which Keppell has been commanding officer, where the men +were worn out with continued exertion at the oar, and with the many +obstacles to be overcome, Keppell's voice would be heard, and when +heard, the men were encouraged and renewed their endeavours. Keppell's +stock, when provisions were running short, and with small hopes of a +fresh supply, was freely shared among those about him, while our gallant +captain, with a boat half filled with his own hampers, would see, and +appeared pleased to see, those in his company longing for a mouthful +which never would be offered. If any of the youngsters belonging to +other ships were, from carelessness or ignorance, in trouble with the +commanding officers, it was to Keppell that they applied, and it was +Keppell who was the intercessor. In fact, every occasion in which +kindness, generosity, or consideration for others could be shown, such +an opportunity was never lost by Keppell, who, to sum up, was a beloved +friend, a delightful companion, and a respected commander. As soon as +our fire was lighted, we set to, under Keppell's directions, and, as may +be supposed, as we had little or nothing else, pork was our principal +dish. In fact, we had pig at the top, pig at the bottom, pig in the +centre, and pig at the sides. A Jew would have made but a sorry repast, +but we, emancipated Christians, made a most ravenous one, defying Moses +and all his Deuteronomy. We had plenty of wine and segars, and soon +found ourselves very comfortably seated on the sand, still warm from the +rays of the burning mid-day sun. Towards the end of a long repast we +felt a little chilly, and we therefore rose and indulged in the games of +leap-frog, fly-the-garter, and other venturous amusements. We certainly +had in our party one or two who were as well fitted to grace the senate +as to play at leap-frog, but I have always observed that the cleverest +men are the most like children when an opportunity is offered for +relaxation. I don't know what the natives thought of the European Rajah +Brooke playing at leap-frog, but it is certain that the rajah did not +care what they thought. I have said little of Mr. Brooke, but I will now +say that a more mild, amiable, and celebrated person I never knew. Every +one loved him, and he deserved it. + +After we had warmed ourselves with play, we lighted an enormous fire to +keep off the mosquitoes, and made a bowl of grog to keep off the effects +of the night air, which is occasionally very pernicious. We smoked and +quaffed, and had many a merry song and many a witty remark, and many a +laugh about nothing on that night. As it is highly imprudent to sleep in +the open air in Borneo, at ten o'clock we broke up and went to repose in +the boats under the spread awnings. Just as we were selecting the +softest plank we could find for a bed, we had an alarm which might have +been attended with fatal consequences. I omitted to mention that when we +rose to part and go into the boats, one of the party threw a lighted +brand out of the fire at the legs of another; this compliment was +returned, and as it was thought very amusing, the object being to leap +up and let the brand pass between your legs, by degrees all the party +were engaged in it, even the rajah and the natives joined in the sport, +and were highly amused with it, although with bare legs they stood a +worse chance of being hit than we did. At last the brands were all +expended and the fire extinct, and then, as I said, we went away to +sleep under the boats' awnings. We were in the act of depositing our +loaded rifles by our sides in a place of security, when the unearthly +war cry rose in the jungle, and in the stillness of the night these +discordant screams sounded like the yelling of a legion of devils. +Immediately afterwards a body of natives rushed from the jungle in the +direction of the boats, in which we supposed that our European party +were all assembled. Always on our guard against treachery, and not +knowing but that these people might belong to a hostile band, in an +instant our rifles were in our hands and pointed at the naked body of +natives, who were now within twenty yards of us. Mr. Hentig was on the +point of firing, when loud shouts of laughter from the Dyaks arrested +his hand, and we then perceived that Mr. Brooke and others were with the +natives, who enjoyed the attempt to intimidate us. It was fortunate +that it ended as it did; for had Mr. Hentig been more hasty, blood must +have been shed in consequence of this native practical joke. We joined +the laugh, however, laid down our rifles, then laid ourselves down, and +went fast asleep, having no further disturbance than the still small +voice of the mosquito, which, like that of conscience, is one that +"murders sleep." + +The following morning we bade adieu to our friendly hunting party, and I +must not here omit to mention a trait of honesty on the part of the +Dyaks. I had dropped my pocket handkerchief in the walk of the day +before, and in the evening it was brought to me by one of the natives, +who had followed a considerable distance to bring it to me. It must be +known, that a coloured silk handkerchief is to one of these poor Dyaks, +who are very fond of finery, an article of considerable value. He might +have retained it without any fear; and his bringing it to me was not +certainly with any hope of reward, as I could have given him nothing +which he would have prized so much as the handkerchief itself. He was +made a present of it for his honesty. + +We bade farewell to our friends at Kuchin, and continued our survey on +the coast. The boats were now continually employed away from the ship, +which moved slowly to the westward. At this time exposure and hard work +brought the fever into the ship. The barge returned in consequence of +four of her men being taken with it, and our sick list increased daily. +A few days afterwards the coxswain of the barge died, and was buried +along side the same morning. This death, after so short an illness, +damped the spirits of the officers and men, particularly of those who +were ill. After this burial we sailed for Sincapore. At this time our +sick report contained the names of more than thirty men, with every +probability of the number being increased; but, thanks to God, from +change of air, fresh provisions, and a little relaxation from the +constant fatigue, the majority were in a short time convalescent. On the +25th of September we arrived at Sincapore. + +[Illustration: VIEW OF SINCAPORE.] + +From the anchorage the town of Sincapore has a very pleasing appearance. +Most of the public buildings, as well as some of the principal +merchants' houses, face the sea. The church is also close to the beach, +I presume to allow the congregation the benefit of the sea breezes. It +has no architectural beauty to recommend it, being a plain building with +a spiral steeple, surmounted by a cross. The interior is fitted up with +more regard to neatness than elegance. It has an organ, and is supplied +with a host of young choristers from the academy. + +Between the beach and Government Hill is a delightful upland, which is +generally attended by all the beauty and fashion of Sincapore in the +cool of the evening. A canal or small river divides the town into two +parts. On the western side of it, stand all the stone houses of the +merchants, and it is here that all commercial business is transacted. It +is densely populated with Armenian Jews, Chinese, and people from every +part of India, each nation residing in its own quarter, in the houses +peculiar to and characteristic of their country. Indeed, one of the +first things that strikes the stranger in Sincapore is the variety of +costume; Chinamen, Malays and Indians, Armenians and Jews, all mingle +together in every variety of picturesque costume, giving you an idea of +a carnival. The palanquins resemble an omnibus on a small scale, they +are drawn on four wheels, have a door on either side, and seats for four +people. They are very high, and drawn by one horse. The conductors, +however, are not perched up on high, but run by the side of the horse, +as do all the syces in India. + +There are two hotels, the proprietors of which are of course rivals. One +is kept by an Englishman, the other by a Frenchman; both are equally +attentive, but the Frenchman's house has the preference, in consequence +of its superior locality, facing the esplanade, and looking upon the +sea. The governor's house is situated on the summit of a hill, about a +quarter of a mile from the beach. From it you have a bird's eye view of +the whole town, and also of the country in the interior for some +distance. From this eminence the town has a very picturesque +appearance; the houses on the east side of the river (the May fair of +Sincapore), are built apart and surrounded by pretty gardens and lawns; +beyond this you have the roads and the sea studded with every variety of +vessels; and the island of Binting rises from sea in the distance. The +interior is not without beauty: the eye ranges over a vast expanse of +grove and forest, interspersed with plantations of nutmegs, cinnamon, +cloves, and sugar canes, and from which a most delightful perfume is +brought by the breeze, while here and there white houses may be +perceived, looking like mere specks in the dark foliage by which they +are surrounded. It is surprising, when we reflect how short a space of +time has passed since this settlement was first made, how such a mass of +building and such a concourse of people can have been collected. + +It certainly does appear strange, but it is no less true, that no nation +can colonise like the English, and I have often made that remark in my +wanderings and visitings of the various parts of the globe. England +fills the world and civilises the world with her redundant population, +and all her colonies flourish, and remind you of a swarm of bees which +have just left the old hive and are busy in providing for themselves. +The Dutch colonies are not what you can call thriving; they have not the +bustle, the enterprise, and activity which our colonies possess. The +Dutch have never conciliated the natives, and obtained their goodwill; +they have invariably resorted to violence, and to a disregard of +justice. One would have thought that the French, from their _bonhomie_, +would have been one of the very best nations to civilise, and certain to +have succeeded; but such is not the case. What can be the cause of this, +if it be not that, instead of raising the character of the native +population by good example and strict justice, they demoralise by +introducing vices hitherto unknown to them, and alienate them by +injustice? There was an outcry raised at the French taking possession +of Taheite, as if any attempt on their part to colonise was an +infringement on our right as Englishmen of universal colonisation. I +think if we were wise, we should raise no objection to their colonising +as much as they please. The whole expence of founding the colony, +raising the fortifications, and building the towns, and, if I may use +the phrase, of settling every thing, may safely be left to them. If a +war breaks out, they will have done a great deal of expensive work for +our benefit, as we are certain then to take possession. Algiers has cost +an enormous sum to France, and will cost still more, and yet it can +hardly be considered as a colony. It is a military possession, an +African barrack, no more; and what will be the result in case of the +breaking out of hostilities? Their possession of Algiers will be most +advantageous to England, for defend it they will with all their power. +We, with Gibraltar as a rendezvous, shall of course have a most +favourable position for assailing it, and the consequence will be, that +the whole focus of the war will be drawn away from our own coasts, and +the Mediterranean will be the arena of all the fighting. The struggle +must be before the Pillars of Hercules. The more we increase our fleets, +the larger must her force be, and she will have no squadron to spare to +send out to annoy our trade and colonial possessions. But as this is a +digression, and has nothing to do with my narrative, I beg pardon and go +on. + +We found that the Dido had anchored there before us, and had received +her orders to proceed to England. Oh! how we envied her good fortune; +and surely if envy is a base passion, in this instance it becomes +ennobled by the feelings of home and country which excite it. The Dido +left on the 10th, and we regretted the loss of Captain Keppell most +deeply. Many merchant vessels had been lately wrecked on the north coast +of Borneo, and their crews made prisoners by the pirate hordes. Some of +the vessels had had females on board, who had not been heard of since. A +letter from a master of a merchant vessel was received by the +authorities at Sincapore, wherein it was stated on oath, that, having +lately put into the port of Ambong, in Borneo, an European woman had +been seen near one of the huts of the village; but that on their +approach, she disappeared. This account was corroborated by the evidence +of some Lascar seamen, who formed a portion of the crew of the vessel. +The contents of this letter being forwarded by the authorities to our +gallant captain, he determined upon proceeding to Ambong, accompanied by +our old ally, the Phlegethon steamer. Fortunately the town lay in our +track, as we were about to proceed to Labuan, and from thence to +Manilla. We again weighed anchor for Sarawak, whither the steamer had +already proceeded. On our arrival at the mouth of the river we anchored, +and the captain went up in his gig. The following day, to our great +surprise, we received an intimation that we might make a party of +pleasure (a party quite unknown in the Samarang), and go up to Kuchin. +We hurried away before the captain had time to repent his indulgence, +and set off, some seven or eight of us, in the cutter, and pulled away +as fast as we could, till we were first out of hail, and then out of +sight, when we considered that we were safe. + +I have already stated that the native houses are built on the left side +of the Sarawak river, and those of the Europeans on the right. These +latter are pretty commodious little bungalows, built of cedar and pine +wood. At present there are but three, belonging to Mr. Brooke, Mr. +Williamson the interpreter, and Hentig, a merchant who has lately +settled there. Ruppell, Mr. Brooke's superintendent, and Treecher, the +surgeon, live in a large house on the native side of the river. Each of +these European houses has its chatty bath adjoining to it, and this +luxury is indulged in at all hours of the day. At nine o'clock a gong +summons all the Europeans to the breakfast table of Mr. Brooke. When +breakfast is over, they all separate, either to follow business or +pleasure, and seldom meet again till six in the evening, when dinner is +served, and the time is passed away till all retire to bed. + +Let me describe the view from the front of Mr. Brooke's house:--The +schooner lying half way across the river is the Julia, belonging to Mr. +Brooke: she sails every month for Sincapore, laden with antimony ore; +and thus, at the same time, she forms a mail-packet between Sincapore +and Kuchin. The large open building, with a wharf, leading down to the +river, is the store in which the antimony is sifted, smelted, and +weighed. On the point near the bend of the river is the fort. It is a +strong building of large timbers, and mounts eight 24-lb. iron guns, in +very excellent condition. This is a very necessary defence, as the +European rajah has many enemies. The building whose top just appears +above the trees is the Chinese joss-house, or temple; for there are many +Chinese settlers at Kuchin, who are very useful in their capacities of +carpenters, blacksmiths, and agriculturists. Sweeping with the eye a +range of dwelling houses built on stakes, you stop at one of tolerable +proportions, which has a platform in front of it, on which are mounted +about twenty small guns, and there is a flag-staff, on which is hoisted +a red and yellow flag: that is the palace of Rajah Muda Hassan. Take a +canoe, and cross over to it. You will find Muda sitting cross-legged in +the centre of it: he shakes hands with you, and offers you cigars and +tea. You will also meet his brother, Bud-ruddeen. You take your leave of +the rajah, and amuse yourself with a walk round the town, during which +you examine the natives and their wives, their customs, their houses, +and their gardens. + +With the exception of the more civilised tribes in the vicinity of the +Sarawak, the Malays who inhabit the coast of Borneo are a cruel, +treacherous, and disgusting race of men, with scarcely one good quality +to recommend them. The numerous tribes of these people are separately +governed, either by a rajah or petty sultan. Their laws are much more +respected than would be supposed in a country where every man is armed, +and is a robber by profession. The dress of the Malay is very uniform, +consisting of a loose jacket, a sash, and trousers: in some parts a +cloth is worn round the head; in others, a hat, made of leaves or +rattan. Their arms are the kris and spear; occasionally they carry the +sum-pi-tan, and poisoned arrows. Their houses are built upon stakes, +probably for the sake of cleanliness; as the flooring consists of a kind +of grating made of rattan, all dirt falls through. The houses are small, +and contain but one family, and, like those of the Dyaks, are built of +the lightest materials. The Malays pretend to Mahomedanism, and there is +generally a large empty building in every town which is dignified with +the name of a mosque: on the outside are hung drums or tom-toms, of huge +dimensions, which are used as gentle reminders of the hours of prayer. + +I have already stated that these Malay tribes live almost wholly by +piracy, to carry on which each town possesses several large prahus, +which they man, and send out to intercept any unfortunate junk or other +vessel incapable of much resistance, which fate or the currents may have +driven too near their coast. When the vessels are captured the cargoes +are deposited in their warehouses, the vessels are broken up, and the +crews are retained as slaves, to dig yams or pound paddy. Unless they +are irritated by a desperate resistance, or they attack an inimical +tribe, they do not shed blood, as has generally been supposed; +restrained, however, by no other feeling than that of avarice, for the +slaves are too valuable to be destroyed. In their physiognomy these +Malays are inferior to the Dyaks: they have a strong resemblance to the +monkey in face, with an air of low cunning and rascality most +unprepossessing. In stature they are very low, and generally +bandy-legged. Their hair and eyes are invariably black, but the face is, +in most cases, devoid of hair; when it does grow, it is only at the +extreme point of the chin. The Borneo Malay women are as plain as the +men, although at Sincapore, Mauritius, and the Sooloos, they are well +favoured; and they wind their serang, or robe, so tight round their +bodies, that they walk in a very constrained and ungainly fashion. Many +of these tribes are intermixed with the natives of the Celebes, such as +the inhabitants of Sooloo. + +[Illustration: MALAY WOMAN.] + +The Malays deal with criminals in a very summary manner, the knowledge +of which prevents many crimes among this semi-barbarous people. Robbers, +for the first offence, lose their right hand; for the second they +undergo the penalty of death. When we were at Kuchin a Chinaman was +convicted of selling sam-schoo without permission: his goods were +confiscated for a time, to be redeemed only by his good behaviour. I am +not acquainted with their punishments for minor offences, except in the +above instance; but I believe it is generally by fine. Every rajah holds +despotic sway over the inhabitants of his province, and punishes as he +thinks proper, without reference to any tribunal, even in cases where +the sentence is death. The method of executing criminals with the kris +is as follows:--He is made to sit down in a chair, with his arms +extended horizontally, and held in that position by two men. The +executioner, who stands behind him, inserts his kris above the +collar-bone, in a perpendicular manner, which causes instant death, as +the weapon enters the heart. + +[Illustration: MALAY CHIEF. + +(SOOLOO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The following anecdote, related to me by some of the Roche people, may +amuse the reader:--A celebrated Malay pirate, whose sanguinary deeds had +filled the Archipelago with terror, became violently enamoured with one +of the slaves of a rajah living on the river Sarawak. After vainly +endeavouring to obtain her from her master by offers of money and +entreaties, he lay in wait for her, and ran away with her into the +jungle. + +He had hardly passed his honeymoon before the rajah discovered his +retreat, and he sent to the Malay to inform him, that, if he would make +his appearance at the audience upon a certain day, he should have +justice done him. + +The Malay chief, who was a man of undaunted courage, and who felt +confident that the reputation he had acquired by his piratical exploits +was alone sufficient to awe his enemies, consented to appear, hoping +that arrangements might be made which would permit him to leave the +jungle, and allow him to enjoy his new bride in quiet. + +On the day appointed he appeared before the council, armed, and +accompanied by his brother, both resting their hands upon the handles +of their krisses, a movement which among the Malays proclaims no +feelings of amity. In this attitude of preparation they walked into the +audience room, which was crowded with a host of enemies. The council +decided, that if on a certain day he would produce a specified sum of +money the girl should be his, and he should return unmolested. The sum +named was exorbitant, but the Malay chief agreed to the payment, and was +permitted to depart. + +When the day of payment arrived, the council sat as before, and the +Malay chief again made his appearance; but this time he came alone, his +brother being absent on a piratical expedition. He had, in consequence +of his violent affection for the girl, made every attempt to raise the +stipulated sum, but could not succeed. He brought all that he could +collect, but it fell far short of the sum which had been agreed upon, +and he requested time to procure the remainder. The council consulted a +while, and then stipulated, that the chief, not having brought the sum +agreed upon, should leave his kris as a pledge till the rest should be +forthcoming. The kris that the chief wore was itself of great value, +very handsomely ornamented with precious stones. It had belonged to his +ancestors, and was, as they always are, highly prized, and they knew +that it would, if possible, be reclaimed. The chief was most reluctant +to part with it, but his love for his mistress overcame his scruples, +and also his prudence, for it left him unarmed amidst his implacable +enemies. He pulled out his kris, and laid it on the table upon the +money, and was busy disengaging the sheath to add to it, when, by a +signal from the rajah, he was seized from behind. He started up, but it +was too late; his trusty weapon, which had so often stood by him in his +need, was no longer within his reach, and he was in a moment transfixed +with a dozen blades, falling a victim to his love of the girl and the +treachery of his foes. + +After passing two very pleasant days at Kuchin, we prepared to descend +the river. I have omitted to say that Mr. Treecher, the surgeon, was +fond of natural history, and possessed a very tolerable collection of +birds, and other animals indigenous to the country. I was shown several +skeletons of the orang outang, some of which were of great size. There +is no want of these animals in the jungle, but a living specimen is not +easy to procure; I saw but one, an adult female, belonging to Mr. +Brooke. It was very gentle in its manners, and, when standing upright, +might have measured three feet six inches. + +[Illustration: PROBOSCIS MONKEY.] + +On board of the Phlegethon there were two specimens of the wa-wa, or +long-armed ape, which had been presented to Mr. Brooke by one of the +neighbouring rajahs, and they are by the natives considered very +valuable. Their affection when domesticated is remarkable; their first +act when they meet one they know is to leap upon your breast and embrace +you with their arms, just like a child will its mother, and they will +remain, if permitted, in this position for hours, and complain if +removed. Their cry is very plaintive, and, heard at night in the jungle, +sounds like that of a female in distress. I was given to understand that +in the presents made by chiefs, a scarce variety of monkey is often the +principal gift, and most esteemed. + +The scarcest monkey in Borneo is the proboscis, or long-nosed. I saw but +two specimens of this animal, one a female, with the nose very long, and +pendulous at the extremity; the other a male, very young, and with the +nose more or less prominent, and giving its face a more actual +resemblance to that of a man's than I had ever before seen. This monkey +has never, I believe, been brought to England alive. The British Museum +has a stuffed specimen. It is not so mischievous in its habits as the +tribe in general. + +As Rajah Muda Hassan has been so frequently mentioned, it may be as well +to give a succinct outline of his history. At the death of the late +sultan, Muda Hassan was the heir-apparent to the throne, but he resigned +in favour of his nephew, retaining the office of prime minister, which +office he had held during the former reign, not only to the satisfaction +of the sultan, but also of the people, with whom he was deservedly a +great favourite. His influence, being even greater than that of the +sultan, occasioned a jealous feeling, and a contention of party, which +induced Muda Hassan to retire to Sarawak with his wives and personal +attendants. He was succeeded in his office of prime minister by an Arab, +Pangeran Usop, a man of unbounded ambition, who by his harsh and +tyrannical conduct soon became hated by the Brunese, who longed for the +return of Muda Hassan, under whose sway they had been quiet and happy. +Pangeran Usop, aware of the popular feeling, now considered Muda Hassan +as his enemy, and took every opportunity of vilifying and creating +suspicion of Muda Hassan on the mind of the sultan, who was little +better than an idiot. He asserted that Muda Hassan and his brother +Bud-ruddeen were leagued with the English, and were their only +supporters in their pretensions to the isle of Labuan, and that they +would assist the English in taking possession of Borneo. + +These reports, although at first treated with disdain, continually +repeated had their effect, not only upon the sultan, but upon the +people; and Muda Hassan, who was informed of what had been going on, and +had not deigned to notice it, now considered that it was advisable to +repair to Borneo, and refute the charges brought against him. + +When Mr. Brooke purchased the rajahship and mines of Sarawak, he agreed +to compensate Muda with a life annuity of two or three hundred per +annum, and give him a passage to his native city, Bruni, whenever he +should feel disposed to leave Kuchin. Some time had now elapsed since +the signing of the contract, during which Muda had remained at his +palace at Kuchin, enjoying his income, and living on the very best terms +with the Europeans. He now, however, expressed a wish to return to +Bruni, and as it was Mr. Brooke's intention to proceed to that port in +the Samarang, it was proposed that the Phlegethon steamer should embark +Muda and his suite, and that on our arrival at Bruni we should see this +rajah and his brother Bud-ruddeen installed in their positions which by +their birth they were entitled to. Another object was in view, and +expected to be gained by this step. Up to the present, no efforts had +been made by the Bornean government to discountenance piracy; on the +contrary, the plunder of the pirates was brought in and openly disposed +of at Bruni, which is the royal residence. Muda and his brother +Bud-ruddeen were stanch friends to the English, and it was anticipated +that by their being appointed to offices of power, and forcing the +sultan to a treaty to put down piracy, and pay respect to the English +flag, a very important advance would be made towards the extermination +of these marauders, and commerce, once rendered secure, and property +respected, Borneo would soon be brought to a state of comparative +civilisation. + +As soon as the two rajahs, with all their wives and suite, &c., could be +got on board of the Phlegethon, Mr. Brooke, and Mr. Williamson the +interpreter, came on board the Samarang, and we sailed. On our arrival +at the island of Labuan, we anchored the ship, and despatched the +steamer, with her cargo, up to Bruni. The captain of the Samarang and +one or two officers proceeded up to Bruni in the barge on the following +day; and I was the midshipman in charge of the boat. We did not arrive +at the city till 8 o'clock in the evening; and it was too dark to +distinguish the houses. With some difficulty, we discovered the steamer, +which was anchored on the main street. We pulled alongside, and landing +the captain and Kuchinians, Adams, the surgeon of the party, and I, +found ourselves in undisturbed possession of the barge. + +[Illustration: BRUNI. + +(BORNEO PROPER.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +Bruni is called by Crawfurd the Venice of the East; and he is so far +correct, that it is built in the same peculiar way, and is a most +extraordinary town. It is built almost entirely on the water. It is of +great size, containing from thirty to forty thousand inhabitants, most +of whom are Malays, but who, from having so long intermixed with the +tribes on the coast, now style themselves Brunese, after the town. This +town, which is situated where the river forms a wide and shallow +estuary, is built with little regard to regularity. There are, however, +two large main streets, intersecting each other in the form of an +irregular cross. These divide the town into four parts, one of which is +partly built upon terra firma, while the other three portions are +composed of massive wooden houses, built on piles, and just sufficiently +separated here and there to admit of the passage of a canoe. On the +portion which is on dry land is built the sultan's palace, a church or +mosque, and most of the more prominent buildings. It was in the main +street (if such a term may be used), and as near as possible in the +centre of the town, that the steamer was anchored. + +When we awoke and roused up it was broad daylight, and the scene was +most novel: surrounding the steamer and the barge, and extending many +yards from them, lay hundreds of canoes, filled with natives of every +tribe to be found on the coast, and dressed in every variety of costume. +From the wild Dusum to the civilised Arab and Malay rajah, natives in +every posture, and decked in every colour, impelled by curiosity, were +crowded around us. Here was a chief, dressed in an embroidered jacket, +sitting cross-legged, and shading himself with a yellow silk umbrella. +There were some wild-looking Dyaks, with scarcely as much covering as +decency demanded, standing up on their narrow canoes, one hand resting +on the handle of their knives, the other on their hips, eying us from +under their long matted hair with glances that told of no good feeling +towards us. In another quarter were women, in a covered boat, whose +jealous lattices only permitted us a glimpse of sparkling eyes, and of +the yellow array which proclaimed them as some of the royal favourites. +As far as you could see on all sides there was a confused mass, composed +of embroidered chiefs, black-eyed women, grey-bearded Arabs, spears, +shields, paddles and umbrellas. Taking out my sketch-book, I amused +myself with drawing the various costumes--no very easy task, as the +canoes were continually on the move; and before I could well catch the +head and shoulders of a native, when I raised my eyes from the paper he +had often disappeared in the crowd, and I found another party and +another costume in his place. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF BRUNI.] + +Rajah Muda Hassan had already landed, and 10 o'clock had been fixed upon +as the hour for a full-dress visit to the sultan. As the time +approached, Mr. Brooke, with our captain and the officers composing the +party, came into the barge, and were pulled up to the sultan's audience +chamber. This was a large three-sided building, facing the water, with a +platform in front, on which were mounted five or six leilas, or native +guns. The roof was slightly carved, and the gables ornamented with large +wooden rams' horns. The red and yellow flag of Borneo waved above it. + +We were received at the platform by a numerous party of chiefs, +handsomely dressed in silks, satins, and gold embroidery. They ushered +us into the audience chamber, the walls of which were lined with a sort +of cloth, and ornamented with shields. The floor was matted. The chamber +was filled with natives, all well dressed and armed. They sat +cross-legged, preserving a respectful silence. A vacant aisle was +preserved between them leading to the throne, which was at the upper +end of the chamber. The throne was a frame of painted wood, gilt and +carved, and bearing a very suspicious resemblance to a Chinese bedstead. +On this, sitting cross-legged, was the sultan of Borneo, to whom we were +all separately presented as English warriors, &c. &c. Chairs were then +placed in a half circle in front of the sultan, and we seated ourselves. +The sultan, a man of about sixty years of age, is said to be very +imbecile, and under the control of his ministers, who do with him as +they please. He was dressed in a loose jacket and trousers of purple +satin, richly embroidered with gold, a close-fitting vest of gold cloth, +and a light cloth turban on his head. In his sash he wore a gold-headed +kris of exquisite workmanship. His head was bald, and his features wore +a continual air of suspicion, mixed with simplicity. The first is not to +be wondered at, as he lives in the happy expectation of being poisoned +every day. He has two thumbs on the right hand, and makes the +supernumerary one useful by employing it in charging his mouth with the +beetle-nut and chunan, in which luxury he indulges to excess. +Immediately below him were his two body attendants, who have charge of +his beetle-nut box and his weapons. In front of the throne, and inside +the half aisle formed by the Europeans, Seraib Yussef, the prime +minister, Muda Hassan, and Bud-ruddeen, were seated on their hams. On +each side and below the throne were hundreds of attendants or guards; +those in the front row sitting cross-legged, with drawn krisses; those +behind them standing with long spears, tipped with bunches of red +horsehair, in their hands. The remainder of the chamber was occupied by +chiefs, all of them armed. + +[Illustration: COURT OF THE SULTAN OF BORNEO. + +(SIGNING THE TREATY WITH ENGLAND.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The communications and demands we had to make were carried on through +Mr. Williamson, the interpreter. The speakers were Mr. Brooke, our +captain, the sultan's prime minister, Muda and Bud-ruddeen, the sultan +occasionally nodding his head in approval of replies made by his prime +minister. The whole of the conversation was carried on in so low a tone +as not to be heard except by those sitting nearest to the throne. The +subject of it was, however, no secret; and it was as follows:-- + +Near to the mouth of the river, is an island called Pulo Cheremon, on +which the sultan has built some forts. On our entering the river, one of +our boats had been fired at from one of these forts, although the +English flag was hoisted at the time. The demands made in this +conference were, that the proper respect should be paid to the English +flag, that the forts upon Pulo Cheremon should be dismantled, and that +the sultan should reinstate Muda and Bud-ruddeen in offices becoming +their rank. Now, that the first demand was reasonable must be admitted; +but what right we had to insist upon the forts being destroyed, and the +sultan's uncles put into office, I really cannot pretend to say. + +Seraib Yussef, who was inimical to the English, expressed his +disapprobation of their demands in very strong terms: as for the sultan, +he had very little to say. As it appeared that there was no chance of +our demands being complied with without coercion, the conference was +broken up by our principals pointing to the steamer, which lay within +pistol-shot of the palace, and reminding the sultan and the ministers +that a few broadsides would destroy the town. Having made this +observation, we all rose to take our departure, stating that we would +wait for an answer to our demands upon the following day. Our situation +was rather critical, only eight Europeans among hundreds of armed +natives taking their sultan in this manner by the beard, when, at a +signal from him, we might have all been despatched in a moment. More +than one chief had his hand upon his kris as we stalked through a +passage left for us out of the audience chamber; but whatever may have +been their wishes, they did not venture further without authority. On +reaching the platform outside, a very strange sight presented itself. +With the exception of a lane left for our passage to the boat, the whole +space was covered with naked savages. These were the Maruts, a tribe of +Dyaks who live in the mountains. The word marut signifies brave. These +naked gentlemen, who are very partial to the sultan, had come down from +the mountains to render assistance in case of hostility on our part. +They were splendidly framed men, but very plain in person, with the long +matted hair falling over their shoulders. They were armed with long +knives and shields, which they brandished in a very warlike manner, +occasionally giving a loud yell. They certainly appeared very anxious to +begin work; and I fully expected we should have had to draw and defend +ourselves. I was not sorry, therefore, when I found myself once more in +the stern sheets of the barge, with our brass six-pounder loaded with +grape, pointed towards them. The poor fellows little knew the effect of +a shower of grape-shot, or they would not have been so anxious for a +"turn-up." + +The sultan had offered a house for the accommodation of the Europeans +during our stay at Bruni. It was a small wooden building over the water +and resting upon piles. It communicated by a platform with the Mahomedan +mosque, which was built of brick and of tolerable dimensions. The +interior of this mosque had no other furniture in it except a sort of +pulpit painted, which stood in the centre. Outside on a raised platform +was a very large tom-tom or drum, upon which a native played from +morning to night, much to our annoyance, as it was so close to us. +Religious worship appears at a very low ebb at Bruni, for during the +whole time that we remained there I did not see one person enter the +mosque. + +At the back of the mosque there was a piece of green sward, which +separated us from the royal buildings. Passing through the mosque we +strolled over this piece of pasture, when, close to the water's edge, we +discovered several fine old brass 32-pounders, dismounted and +half-buried in the swamp. On inspection we found them to be Spanish, +bearing the inscription of Carolus Tertius, Rex Hispaniorum, with the +arms of Castile above. How they came into the sultan's possession we +could not find out. He was said to value them exceedingly; if so, he did +not show it by the neglect paid to them. + +Bruni on a calm day presents a novel and pretty appearance. The masses +of houses appear to float on the water, and the uniformity is broken by +gay flags and banners, which indicate the rank and the office of them +who hoist them. The large square sails of the prahus, the variety of +boats and canoes, the floating bazaar, and the numerous costumes +continually in moving panorama before you, all combine to form a very +admirable picture. Add to this the chiming and beating of gongs and +tom-toms in every cadence, and from every quarter, and you are somewhat +reminded of an Asiatic Bartholomew fair. + +The right-hand side of the river, which is opposite to the town, +consists of a series of small hills, which are partially cleared, but +present little appearance of cultivation. Here we were shown a specimen +of the upas tree: it was growing close to a small stone fountain in the +vicinity of some straggling huts. It was a solitary tree, tall and +red-stemmed, with the foliage branching out in a canopy at the top. + +So much has been said for and against this tree, usually supposed to be +fabulous, that we looked upon it with great curiosity; and although +aware that its noxious qualities have been much exaggerated, we were +anxious to test its powers, if we could. We procured a ladder, which we +raised against the tree, and one of our party ascended to the uppermost +branches without experiencing the fainting sensation ascribed to be +produced by close contact with its foliage. We then tapped the tree at +the bottom, and there issued from it a white viscous fluid, which the +natives asserted to be a virulent poison, and used by them for dipping +the points of their arrows. We carried off a bottle of this poison, and +having drunk from the fountain beneath the tree, without fear and +without injury, we went away. This was the only specimen of the upas +tree that I saw in Borneo. The lower orders at Bruni, in addition to a +jacket and trousers, wear an immense straw hat of a conical shape, with +a brim as wide as an umbrella. This hat, unless thrown back on the +shoulders, entirely conceals the face. At times, when the river is +crowded with canoes, nothing is to be seen but a mass of these straw +hats, which present a very strange appearance. But the greatest novelty +at Bruni is the floating bazaar. There are no shops in the city, and the +market is held every day in canoes. These come in at sunrise every +morning from every part of the river, laden with fresh fruit, tobacco, +pepper, and every other article which is produced in the vicinity; a few +European productions, such as handkerchiefs, check-cotton prints, &c., +also make their appearance. Congregated in the main street the canoes +are tacked together, forming lanes through which the purchasers, in +their own canoes, paddle, selecting and bargaining for their goods with +as much convenience as if the whole was transacted on terra firma. Iron +is here so valuable that it is used as money. One hundred flat pieces an +inch square are valued at a dollar, and among the lower classes these +iron pieces form the sole coin. They are unstamped, so that every person +appears to be at liberty to cut his own iron into money; but whether +such is really the case I cannot vouch. + +We remained at Bruni for a week, during which time a great deal of +diplomatic duty was got through by the seniors of the party, leaving the +juniors to amuse themselves with discovering fresh objects of interest, +and illustrating every thing worthy of notice. + +Our whole party met every evening at the small house which had been +appropriated for our use by the sultan. It staggered fearfully upon its +wooden legs under our accumulated weight, and we constantly expected +that we should be let down into the water. Here we dined and passed the +evening in conversation, with our arms all ready at hand, guns and +pistols loaded, and the boats anchored close along side of us, in case +of any treachery. Every day an interview was had with the sultan, but no +definite answer had been obtained to our demands. On the 6th, however, +it was resolved by our diplomatists that no more time should be wasted +in useless discussion, but that the sultan must be at once brought to +terms; indeed, our own safety demanded it, for the popular feeling was +so much excited, and the people were so indignant at our attempt to +coerce their sultan, that we were in hourly expectation of an attack. + +At seven in the evening the party repaired to the audience chamber, +leaving their arms behind them, for they felt that any effort from five +Europeans to defend themselves against so many hundreds, would be +unavailing, and that more would be gained by a show of indifference. +They landed at the platform, and the barge, in which were Lieutenant +Baugh (since dead) and myself, was ordered to lie on her oars abreast of +the audience chamber, and to keep her 6-pounder, in which there was a +fearful dose of grape and canister, pointed at the sultan himself during +the whole of the interview. + +It was an anxious time: the audience chamber was filled with hundreds of +armed men, in the midst of whom were five Europeans dictating to their +sultan. The platform outside was crowded with the wild and fearless +Maruts: not a native in the city but was armed to the teeth, and anxious +for the fray. + +We, on our parts, were well prepared for fearful vengeance; the barge +was so placed that the assassination of Mr. Brooke and the Europeans +would have been revenged on the first discharge of our gun by the +slaughter of hundreds; and in the main street lay the steamer, with a +spring on her cable, her half ports up, and guns loaded to the muzzle, +awaiting, as by instruction, for the discharge of the gun from the +barge, to follow up the work of death. The platform admitted one of the +steamer's guns to look into the audience chamber, the muzzle was pointed +direct at the sultan, a man held the lighted tow in his hand. Every +European on board had his musket ready loaded, and matters assumed a +serious appearance. + +From where I was on the barge, all appeared hushed in the audience room. +I could see the prime minister, Muda, and Bud-ruddeen, as they rose in +turns to speak. I could perceive by the motion of their lips that they +were talking, but not a sound came to our ears. This state of things +lasted about half an hour, and then there was a slight stir, and Mr. +Brooke and his party marched towards us through the crowd of warriors. + +By dint of threats he had gained his point. The sultan had signed a +treaty by which he bound himself to respect the British flag, to make +over to us the island of Labuan, to destroy the forts on Pulo-Cheremon, +to discountenance piracy, and to instal Muda and Bud-ruddeen into +offices becoming their birth and high rank. + +I have since heard Mr. Brooke remark, that considering the natives were +well aware that our guns were directed against them, the self-possession +and coolness shared by every one of them were worthy of admiration. They +never showed the slightest emotion, their speeches were free from +gesticulation, and even their threats were conveyed in a quiet subdued +tone; and every thing was carried on with all the calmness and +deliberation that might be expected at a cabinet council at St. James's. + +Whilst at Bruni, we picked up several specimens of coal, and asking one +of the chiefs if much could be procured, he showed us a few sacks. +Ignorant of its value, he was still cunning enough to perceive how much +interest Ave felt in the discovery, and immediately asked a most +tremendous price for his stock. One would really have thought that we +were bargaining for precious stones; at all events he must have had an +intuitive idea that we considered them as "black diamonds." On the other +hand, an old Arab at Bruni, who had supplied us with one or two live +bullocks, when he saw the Samarang at anchor at the mouth of the river, +had the modesty to offer our captain 400 dollars for her, less than +100l. sterling. Sell dear and buy cheap is the way to get rich, and +proves how fit for commerce are all the people of the archipelago. + +While we were lying at Bruni in the barge, one day, when Adams the +assistant-surgeon and myself were sole occupants, we were surprised at +the appearance of a handsomely dressed Malay youth, who stepped into the +boat, greeting us, although strangers, _sans ceremonie_. Always wishing +to study native character, we amused him as well as we could, and on his +departure gave him to understand that he might come whenever he pleased. +About dark we were surprised by a canoe coming under our stern, and the +occupant throwing into the barge several fine fowls and a large basket +of fruit. We could not imagine to whom we were indebted for this +civility, but suspected our Malay friend, and when he came again we +taxed him with it, and he acknowledged it. On this visit he sat in the +boat for some time, appearing to take a great interest in every thing +connected with us, and observed that we were bargaining with the natives +in the canoes alongside of us for the various arms of the country, which +they are content to sell provided they obtain a most exorbitant price. +Our Malay friend went off in his canoe, and in the course of an hour +returned with a large collection of shields, spears, krisses, and mats, +which he begged our acceptance of. Every day did he bring us presents +of some description or another, refusing to take any thing in return, +except perhaps an English pocket handkerchief or something of very +trifling value. Suddenly his visits were discontinued, and we saw no +more of him. One day, dining at the house lent us by the sultan, Mr. +Brooke was talking with some of our party of a young Malay chief, who, +being mad, had attempted to kill his wife, and had in consequence been +placed in durance, but had since been liberated. Mr. Brooke wishing to +speak to him, sent for him, and on his appearance this madman proved to +be our generous unknown. + +The day after the signing of the treaty we left Bruni, the steamer +taking the barge in tow, and the same afternoon we joined the Samarang +at our newly-acquired possession, the isle of Labuan. This island is +about thirty miles in circumference, flat, and covered with thick +jungle. It has no inhabitants. Its anchorage is good, being protected by +the main and two smaller islands. The embouchure of a rivulet forms a +small bay, which we dignified with the title of Victoria. We found water +plentiful, and several specimens of coal. + +From Labuan we proceeded to Ambong, a place where it was supposed that +an European female had been detained as a slave. Ambong is a pretty +little bay, with a Malay village built in the bight of it, and there is +a fine view of Keeney Balloo, the great mountain of Borneo, in the +back-ground. This mountain, estimated to be 14,000 feet high, is about +forty miles from Ambong, and with the aid of a glass we could discern +cataracts and ravines innumerable. It is certainly a most splendid +affair, on one side rising almost perpendicularly, and in appearance +nearly flat at the top. At sunset, from the bay, its appearance was +splendid. We found nothing at Ambong to lead us to suppose that European +females had at any time been made prisoners by the inhabitants: they +were apparently a quiet, peaceable people, living entirely by +agriculture. Their close neighbours, however, the Moros of Tampassook, +are a notorious tribe of the Illanoan pirates, who are the terror of the +Asiatic seas. It was not improbable that these people might have many +European prisoners as their slaves, but from what we knew of their +character, we felt assured that if they possessed white female +prisoners, they would never consent to their being ransomed. + +After making a survey of Ambong, we only waited to take in a supply of +fresh beef, and then started the Phlegethon on her return to Sarawak +with Mr. Brooke and Mr. Williamson, while we shaped our course in an +opposite direction on our way to Manilla. + +I may here remark that the bullocks at Ambong were remarkably fine and +the price of them ridiculously cheap. Two of the largest were to be +purchased for about twenty-five shillings worth of calico or any other +European manufacture. Wherever we went on this island, and I may say +over the Indian archipelago generally, the spirit of trade and barter +appeared to be universal; and if the inhabitants of Borneo were inclined +to look into the riches of their island, and with them procure English +manufactures, which when piracy is abolished they will do, the +commercial opening to this country will be great indeed. The scenery in +the bay of Ambong varies from that of the Borneo coast in general. The +bay is backed by a series of small hills, cleared away and partially +cultivated, instead of the low jungle which is elsewhere so universal. + +On our way to Manilla we touched at the entrance of a river up which is +situated the town of Tampassook. Bodies of armed men came down in haste +to oppose our landing, which we did with a view of taking sights to +verify the chronometers. We came to a parley before we came to blows, +and the captain drew a line close to the beach, telling the Illanoans +that his men would remain inside of it, on condition that they would +remain outside. This arrangement was agreed to, and the observations +were taken between four or five hundred armed warriors on one side, and +four boats with the guns ready to fire on the other. + +The pirates were all very well dressed in stuffs and cloths: they +carried shields so large as to cover the whole body, and long heavy +swords with the handles ornamented with balls and human hair. Many were +on horseback, and formed a very respectable irregular cavalry, wearing a +light loose dress, and armed with long spears and short round shields. +One costume was quite novel, being a coat of armour made of buffalo +leather scaled with oyster shells. Both parties adhered to the +agreement, and all therefore passed off quietly; the observations were +completed, and we returned to the ship. + +Tampassook, it is asserted, would be a grand place for booty if it was +stormed, as the inhabitants possess a great deal of money and diamonds. +They are, however, a very brave people, and would not part with their +riches without a terrible resistance. + +While off this river we had notice given us that there was a fleet of +100 piratical prahus lying off the island of Balabac. We shaped our +course thither, hoping to surprise them, but we were disappointed: the +birds had flown, and the bay of Balabac was untenanted. We cruised for a +week among the islands in search of them, but could not discover their +retreat; so we shaped our course for Manilla, taking the passage to the +eastward of Palawan, which was considered the best at this season of the +year. + +While off the north-east coast of Palawan, our boats left to survey +discovered an Illanoan prahu at anchor off one of the small islands that +surround the coast. The boats gave chase, and the pirates used every +exertion to get away. The gig soon headed the other boats, but gained +very slowly on the pirate, and her muskets caused no apparent execution, +but one of the cutters with the grape from her gun killed several of +their fighting men, who stood on the roof brandishing their krisses, and +fearlessly exposing themselves to the fire. On turning a point the prahu +kept before the wind, and walked away from us so fast that we gave up +the chase. + +In about a fortnight afterwards, the Corregidor, a small island at the +mouth of Manilla Bay, hove in sight. On our arriving abreast of it, a +gun-boat came out to board us, and inquire after our bill of health; but +as we had a spanking breeze, and men-of-war do not heave-to to be +boarded, the gun-boat returned to the island as wise as she came out. +Manilla Bay is of immense size, being thirty miles deep, and twenty +wide. Near the mouth of the Bay the land is high, but at the head, where +the city of Manilla is built, it is remarkably low and flat. As we had +the wind in our teeth, and Manilla was twenty-five miles distant, we did +not arrive there till sunset. After shaving the sterns of several +merchant ships, who would have been better pleased if we had given them +a wider berth, we at last dropped anchor about two miles from the town. + +Manilla, from the anchorage, has not an inviting appearance. I have said +that the land upon which it is built is very low, and as the town is +strongly fortified, nothing is to be seen from the shipping but a long +line of sea wall, with the roofs of the largest buildings, and a mass of +brick, which we were told was the cathedral, overtopping it. At one end +of this sea wall is the canal, or river, flanked on one side by a mole, +and on the other by a light-house. + +Manilla is, however, a very delightful place; and to us, who had been so +many months among savages, it appeared a Paradise. The canal I have +alluded to divides the fortified city from the suburban towns of San +Fernando, San Gabriel, and others, in which are situated all the +commercial houses, stores, godowns, dock-yards, and saw mills. All the +Chinese and lower orders also reside in these suburbs, and I may add +that all the amusements, feasts, &c., are carried on in this quarter. +The city of Manilla within the fortifications is a very quiet, clean, +and well-regulated town, inhabited entirely by the higher orders: the +streets are well laid out, the houses regular, and built of white +freestone. In the centre of the city is the Plaza, on one side of which +is the cathedral, and opposite it the governor's palace; both very +insignificant buildings. The cathedral, which is very ancient, is devoid +of all attempt at architecture, and resembles a huge barn; while the +governor's palace, in appearance, reminds you of a stable. + +[Illustration: CITY OF MANILLA.] + +During the day the streets of Manilla are perfectly quiet and deserted. +At dusk the people begin to move, and show signs of life. The sallyport +gates are closed at eleven o'clock at night, after which hour there is +neither ingress or egress, and on this point they are most absurdly +particular. + +The natives of Luzon are much below the middle size. The men are +slightly made, weak, and inoffensive; the women, on the contrary, are +remarkable for their pretty faces, feet, and figures, set off by a dress +of the most picturesque description: a short petticoat, of +gaily-coloured silk or cotton, and a boddice of similar material, of +sufficient height to cover the bosom, is their usual costume. Their long +jet black hair is allowed to fall in tresses down their backs. Many have +a kerchief tastefully thrown over their heads; and they wear little +velvet slippers, embroidered with gold and silver thread. Their +appearance is extremely captivating to foreigners, who do not in a hurry +forget their graceful mien and the arch glances from their brilliant +eyes. Manilla supports a considerable body of infantry and cavalry, the +whole composed of natives of the island. Their horses are small, as well +as the men, and are not well trained; but the object of the Spaniards is +to make a show to intimidate the Indians, who, having no discipline +whatever, are, of course, inferior even to these very moderate troops. +Not long ago, one of the strongest forts was taken possession of by a +party of rebels, assisted by some soldiers who had revolted: the fort +was recaptured, and, as an example, a dreadful slaughter ensued. The +parade ground, outside the citadel, was the scene of carnage. A large +pit was dug, at the brink of which the victims were placed; they were +then shot, and thrown into this grave. Eighty-two were thus butchered, +and buried in the pit, over which a mound has been raised, to +commemorate their execution. + +Outside the town, and half encircling it, there is a splendid +esplanade, between an avenue of trees. This leads to the water, when +the road runs parallel with it for nearly a mile, terminating at one of +the piers of the canal. This is known by the, I presume, correct name of +Scandal Point. A number of carriages, filled with all the _elite_ of +Manilla, turn out on this drive a little before sunset, and the scene is +very gay and exciting. I leave the reader to conceive upwards of 200 +carriages passing and repassing, besides equestrians and pedestrians. +The reader may say that it must be like the ring at Hyde Park; but it is +more brilliant, although not in such good taste; and then it is the +beauty of the climate--the contrast between the foliage and the blue +ocean--which gives the effect. No buttoning up to an east wind, nor +running away from a shower; but ever gay, and fresh, and exhilarating. +Here you meet the old Don, enjoying his quiet stroll and cigar, all +alone. Soldier officers, in plain dress and long mustachoes, doffing +their hats to every senora. The English merchant, in his unassuming +undress of a white jacket; the British naval officers, with their gay +uniforms and careless manners, prying, with a sailor's curiosity, into +every pretty face; and now and then a saucy mid, mounted on a hack, +dashing between the line of carriages at a full gallop, disturbing their +propriety, and checking the cavalcade, to the great consternation, real +or assumed, of the ladies. All was gaiety and gladness; on every side +was to be heard the merry laugh and hail of recognition. To add to the +excitement, the bands of the several regiments played the most popular +airs on a parade adjoining to the esplanade. + +While the carriages were driving up and down, the vesper bell tolled +from the cathedral. In an instant every carriage stopped--every head was +uncovered, and bent in an attitude of devotion. Horses, women, men--all +as if transfixed: every tongue silent--nothing heard but the bell of the +cathedral, and the light breeze which bore away its vibrations. The +bell at last ceased, and in a moment every thing was in full activity as +before. + +Twice a week a military band plays at the public almeda from nine till +ten in the evening; and on one of these nights we started in a carriage +to the spot. The almeda is situated close to the gates of the city, and +joins to the esplanade. It is an open square, bordered with a row of +trees, to which are suspended lamps; while in the spaces between the +trees there are seats for the accommodation of the public. In the middle +of the almeda is a stand erected for the musicians. On our arrival there +we found it well lighted up; the place was surrounded by carriages, +which were empty, their occupants having joined the parade. Following +the example, we mixed with the throng, which was numerous. The women +were mostly collected in groups, and the men were smoking their cheroots +and beating time to the music, which was excellent. Lighting our cigars, +we strolled lazily along, and, by dint of lamp-light and impudence, +managed to form a very tolerable idea of the beauty of the senoras. At +ten o'clock, the band struck up a lively polka, which was the signal for +a general dispersion. This is considered one of the principal and most +favourite recreations at Manilla. + +The inhabitants of Manilla are composed of the pure Spaniard, and the +Mustichas, or mixed breed. The former are very proud and inhospitable; +the latter are, on the contrary, very friendly, and, for any little +civility, request that you will make their house your home. The women of +the latter are by far the most preferable: the former are said to be +very deficient in good-breeding and education; like the Indians, they +sleep half the day, and are scarcely alive till sun-down, when they +dress for the almeda or esplanade. + +There are very good subscription rooms in the city. Every month they +give a ball, concert, or amateur performance. Strangers are presented +with tickets for these amusements--no thanks to the Spaniards--but from +the kindness of the English merchants, who are nearly all members. I +went to one of these balls: there were plenty of women--more than could +get partners; the music was good, the women well dressed, and they +waltzed exquisitely. Adjoining the ball-room was a billiard-room, in +which those who preferred smoking cigars in a cool room to dancing, with +the thermometer at 90 deg., had retreated. Nothing can be done at Manilla +without the cigar: they smoke for an appetite, they smoke for digestion, +they smoke when they are too hot, they smoke when it is chilly. As the +hands of the time-piece approached the hour of eleven, every one who +lived outside the city was obliged to be off. We, among others, took our +departure; but when we sought for our carriage, it had disappeared. We +set off at a hard trot, to reach the gates before eleven, but in our +haste we missed the road, and came to a cul-de-sac. We retraced our +steps, but when we reached the gates they were closed. A request to the +officer of the guard we knew to be useless, so we turned back, and +prepared to pass the night in the streets, in our uniforms and swords. +After wandering half an hour up and down without seeing a light or +meeting a soul, I heard a violent hammering at a door at a little +distance. I found it was one of our party, who hammered away, and called +out for "Soda water" between each hammering. "All's right!" said he; +"look here!" And sure enough there was a board outside, with "Soda +Water" painted in large letters in English. This repeated hammering and +demand for soda water at last produced the desired effect. A person in a +dressing-gown and slippers came out into the balcony, and demanded our +business. We explained our extreme thirst and benighted condition; and +as the gentleman hesitated, we again applied to the door, intimating +that if we had no admission, at all events he should have no repose. At +last he sent down to have the door opened. We found that he was a +German chemist, who fabricated soda water, among other articles, and, +knowing the partiality of the English for the beverage, had advertised +it in our language over the door. We passed the night with him very +comfortably at his house, breakfasted with him the next morning, and, +promising to bring the whole of our shipmates to drink soda water for +his benefit till we were blown out like balloons, we wished him +good-bye, and returned to the ship. + +Gambling is carried to a great extent in Manilla: the game played is +Monte. We visited one of their gambling houses. Winding our way down a +dark and narrow street, we arrived at a porte-cochere. The requisite +signal was given, the door opened cautiously, and after some scrutiny we +were ushered up a flight of stairs, and entered a room, in the centre of +which was a table, round which were a group, composed of every class. An +Indian squaw was sitting by the side of a military officer, the one +staking her annas, the other his doubloons. I stood by the side of an +old Chinaman, who staked his doubloon and lost every time. The strictest +silence was observed, and nothing was heard but the chinking of the +dollars, and the occasional _a quien_ of the banker, who inquired the +owner of the stakes. Every thing was conducted with the greatest order; +when one man had lost all his money he would retire, and make room for +another. The authorities of Manilla have made every effort to put a +check to this demoralising practice, but without much success. It is +universal, from the highest to the lowest, from the civilised to the +most barbarous, over the whole of the Indian Archipelago. + +The Indians of the Phillippines are among the best favoured of the +Asiatic islanders, but they are not reckoned so brave as the Malays. +They are a quiet inoffensive race, clean and well shaped, and are all +converted to the Catholic faith. Their principal amusement is +cock-fighting, which, indeed, is carried to a great extent in all the +islands. Every man in the streets has his fighting cock under his arm, +and groups may be seen at all hours of the day, pitting their cocks and +betting on the issue. The country about Manilla is very pretty, well +cultivated, and studded with thriving villages. The Spanish possessions +in this part of Luzon are confined to about twenty miles in every +direction; the interior of the island being peopled with a race of +savages who occasionally make incursions into the country, carrying away +cattle or any thing else that they can lay their hands upon. I could +obtain no particulars of these aborigines, except that they go nearly if +not altogether naked. + +On the 1st of December, our old acquaintance, the Velocipede schooner, +arrived from Sooloo, having on board six Lascars, who had been ransomed +from the sultan of Sooloo by Mr. Wyndham. They had formed a portion of +the crew of the Premier, an English merchant vessel, which had been +wrecked on a reef off the eastern coast of Borneo. The crew, consisting +of Europeans and Lascars, had been divided between the sultans of +Sooloo, Gonong Tabor, and Balungan. One of the Lascars was the bearer of +a letter from the captain of the Premier, stating that he and his crew +were still captives, and trusting that a vessel would be sent to rescue +them, as they were strictly guarded by the natives, and had no hopes of +escape. The Samarang being the only man-of-war at Manilla, the English +consul requested our captain to proceed again to Borneo to obtain these +people, calling at Sooloo in order to obtain information and a pilot. + +On the 10th of December we sailed for Sooloo, where we arrived on the +15th. We found the natives preparing for an attack, which they +anticipated from the French, and suspicious that our intentions were +also hostile. Having already described Sooloo, I shall confine myself to +events. The captain, with his officers, went on shore, and had an +audience with the sultan; and having brought an interpreter with us from +Manilla, the conversation was carried on without difficulty. +Refreshments, as lemonade, &c. were handed round as before, and, as +before, the room of audience was crowded to suffocation. + +The prime minister, who was a little corpulent man with an aquiline +nose, wore such an expression of low cunning, and eyed us with such +ill-concealed hatred, that we christened him Daniel Quilp, and he was +ever afterwards spoken of by that soubriquet. Our object being made +known, and the sultan's assistance demanded to obtain the remainder of +the prisoners, every obstacle that Quilp could throw in our way was +resorted to; and thus the audience became very tiresome, and I paid +little or no attention to what was said, amusing myself by using my +eyes, instead of tormenting my ears. A heavy red curtain was hung up, +dividing the room into two compartments. Observing that this moved once +or twice, I endeavoured to find out the cause, when several pairs of +black eyes, half hidden in the folds and rents, explained the mystery; +and whilst they were loudly disputing, I was winking and making faces at +the sultan's wives, who, stimulated by curiosity to behold the white +men, were thus transgressing the rules of the harem. But old Quilp +looked very hard at me, and for the ladies' sakes I was obliged to +desist. + +Behind the sultan stood a young man very handsomely dressed in crimson +silk, who held in his hands an English finger-glass. We were very much +at a loss to know what his office might be, and also what might be the +office of the finger-glass; but our curiosity was soon gratified; the +sultan beckoned the youth to approach, and as the latter presented the +finger-glass, his highness blew his nose in it. + +Indeed, the misappropriation of English utensils in this part of the +world is very absurd, although it is not surprising that an article +coming into their hands, the use of which they have no idea of, should +be appropriated to that use which they consider it best adapted to. On +the occasion of a dinner given to us by the sultan of Bruni, the whole +party were seized with a fit of very indecorous and immoderate laughter, +by finding the centre dish, which was a curry, served up in a capacious +vessel, which in Europe is only to be found under a bed. The curry, +nevertheless, was excellent; and what matter did it make? "What's in a +name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet."--But to return. + +We remained eight days at Sooloo, during which time there was much +altercation and excitement. At last the sultan of Sooloo agreed to send +a prahu with us to pilot us up the river, to the town where the crew of +the Premier were in durance. + +During the time that we were at Sooloo, we had evidence sufficient of +the vindictive feeling held by the rabble against Europeans, and at the +same time the various ways they resorted to, to give us an idea of their +superiority. They drew our attention to some old cannon mounted on +rotten gun-carriages; they pointed out the strength of their fort, the +sharpness of their krisses and spears; and we could not but smile at the +false estimate of their and our capabilities. They expressed curiosity +to see our swords, which are always made of finely tempered steel, +although not sharp edged, as they are required more for thrusting and +parrying. Of our mode of self-defence they are ignorant, as they +invariably cut with their krisses; their first attention was, therefore, +drawn to the edge of the sword; passing the thumb along it, and finding +it blunt, they expressed the greatest contempt for the weapon. It was +useless to show them the thrust and parry movements, or to prove the +well-tempered steel by bending the blade till the hilt and point were +almost meeting. A sharp iron hoop in their ideas was preferable to all +the best English workmanship. The Sooloo knives are larger than they +usually are in the Archipelago, and of superior manufacture. By rubbing +them with limes and exposing them to the sun, they stain them in a +manner quite peculiar to the place. + +Partly to the machinations of our friend Quilp and the irritable and +proud disposition of the people, who considered that the sultan was +humiliated by listening to reason and remonstrance, we were more than +once very near coming to blows. At last every thing was arranged +amicably; and just before starting, the prime minister, Quilp, and a +large party of chiefs, condescended to pay a visit to the ship. + +To guard against treachery, for Quilp was equal to any thing, the +marines were kept under arms, and supplied with ball cartridges. The +ship was soon crowded with chiefs, armed to the teeth, and accompanied +by men with muskets, spears, and shields. It certainly did not look like +a very amicable visit on their part, or a very friendly reception on +ours; but the ship wore a very gay appearance. The guns, nettings, and +booms were covered with the chiefs and attendants dressed in very gay +colours. Groups of them sat down on the decks, and made their remarks +upon what they beheld; while numbers prowled about up and down, +examining, peeping, and wondering. We amused them with firing congreve +rockets, guns, &c., which gave them some idea of our value, and we +therefore combined instruction with amusement. They departed highly +pleased and astonished, and it was evident that we were some degrees +higher in the estimation of Quilp himself. + +The prahu ordered to pilot us having come alongside, we hoisted her up +abaft, and took the people on board, and then made sail for the hitherto +unknown territory of Panti river. We anchored off the main land on the +25th December, that we might discover the mouth of the river, which was +unknown to us. Our Christmas-day was not a very happy one; we did +nothing but drink to the hopes of a better one the ensuing year. On the +following day we weighed, and moved some distance up the river, and then +anchored, waiting the return of the prahu, which had been despatched up +to the town the night before. We had, by the means of warping and +towing, gained about fifteen miles up the river, when we found that it +divided into two branches, and, not knowing which branch to take, we had +anchored, waiting the return of the prahu. As she, however, did not make +her appearance, although she had had quite sufficient time allowed her, +the boats were therefore manned and armed, and we started in search of +the town Gonong Tabor. As bad luck would have it, we chose the left +branch of the river, and, after two days' unsuccessful search, came back +just as we went, but not quite so fresh as when we started. The prahu +had not yet returned, so, taking a new departure, we proceeded up the +right branch. This proved a fine broad river; one portion of it, studded +with small islands, was very picturesque. We soon hove in sight of what +appeared to be a town, although there were no signs of life visible. It +was built on the left side of the river on two small hills, but we heard +no gongs or tomtoms sounding, the usual alarm of all the Malay +settlements on the approach of strangers. When we arrived off it, we +found that the town was deserted. It had evidently but a short time back +been a populous and flourishing place, but it had been destroyed by the +enemy, as, although the houses were standing, the cocoa-nut and other +trees had been all cut down. On the brow of the hill were many graves; +one, which was stockaded and thatched, and the remnants of several flags +fluttering in the wind, denoted the resting-place of a rajah. He little +thought when he was alive that his head would be transported to a head +house some 20,000 miles distant, but such was his fate: science required +it, and he was packed up to add to the craniological specimens in the +College of Surgeons, the gentlemen presiding over which are as fond of +heads as the Dyaks themselves. + +We moved up the river till nightfall, and then anchored. We were +satisfied from appearances that we were not far from a town, and, +loading our arms, we kept a very strict look-out. + +At daylight the next morning we weighed anchor, and, having passed two +reaches of the river, we came in sight of the towns of Gonong Tabor and +Gonong Satang. We pulled towards them, with a flag of truce, and were +immediately boarded by a canoe, which contained the prime minister, who +made every profession of good-will on the part of his master, the sultan +of Gonong Tabor. We observed with surprise that he hoisted a Dutch flag, +which he requested that we would salute. The captain replied, that they +must first salute the English flag, and, if they did so, he promised to +return the salute. This was complied with; the English flag was saluted +with twenty-one guns, and an equal number returned. The boats were then +anchored off the town. + +Immediately after we had returned the salute, we heard an attempt at +music, and this was soon explained by the appearance of a procession +filing through the gates of the town towards the boats. It was headed by +a Malay, bearing the standard of Gonong Tabor,--red, with a white +border; he was followed by another carrying a large canopy of silk, +highly ornamented, and fringed with lace. After this personage came the +prime minister; then two musicians, one playing the drum, and the other +a flageolet of rude construction. These musicians were dressed in red +bordered with yellow, with cowls over their heads. The rear was composed +of a body-guard of Malays, well armed. The whole advanced towards the +landing-place, having been sent by the sultan to escort the captain to +the palace. The captain and officers landed, and, escorted by the +natives, proceeded to the palace, the red silk canopy being carried +over the head of the captain as a mark of honour. The sultan, a +corpulent but fine-looking man, received us very courteously. He +informed the captain that all the white people belonging to the Premier +had been ransomed by the Dutch, whose trading vessels were in the habit +of visiting Gonong Tabor. The captain of the Premier had refused to +acknowledge the Lascars as British subjects, and, in consequence, the +poor fellows had been retained as slaves. They were not, however, at +Gonong Tabor, but at Baloongan, a town of some importance up a +neighbouring river. He added, that four of the Lascars had fallen +victims to the climate, and that there were twelve still remaining at +the above-mentioned town. It appeared that, from some misunderstanding +between the sultans of Gonong Tabor and Gonong Satang relative to the +disposal of the English prisoners, they had come to blows, and were at +this time at open warfare, the two towns being within gunshot of each +other. Gonong Satang was built on a hill on the opposite side of the +river, and was strongly stockaded as well as Gonong Tabor. + +[Illustration: PROCESSION OF THE SULTAN OF GONONG TABOR.] + +The sultan expressed his desire to enter into an amicable treaty with +the English, and offered our captain his assistance in procuring the +release of the Lascars at Baloongan. This offer was accepted, and, when +we left, a prahu accompanied us to that town. + +In the course of the evening the sultan's prime minister and suite +visited the barge, which was moored within a few yards of the +landing-place. We surprised them very much with our quick firing, but +their astonishment was unbounded at the firing of a congreve rocket, +which they perceived carried destruction to every thing in its flight. +The grand vizier was in ecstasies, and begged very hard that the captain +would go up to Gonong Satang, and just fire one or two at their +adversaries in that town. This, of course, was refused. + +[Illustration: EARS OF DYAKS AT GONONG TABOR.] + +We here fell in with a most remarkable tribe of Dyaks: they wore immense +rings in their ears, made of tin or copper, the weight of which +elongated the ear to a most extraordinary extent. On their heads they +wore a mass of feathers of the Argus pheasant. They wore on their +shoulders skins of the leopard and wild cat, and neck-laces of beads and +teeth. They were armed with the usual parang, blowpipe, and shield. They +were a much larger race of men than the Dyaks of the north coast, but +not so well favoured. We remained here five days, and on the 1st of +January, 1845, went down the river to the ship, accompanied by the prahu +which was to be our guide to Baloongan. The following day we sailed for +Baloongan, and on the 3rd we anchored off the bank where the Premier was +cast away. Her ribs and timbers were left, but the natives had carried +away every thing of value, except a small anchor, which they had not +ingenuity enough to recover. Leaving the ship at anchor here, we again +manned the boats, and, accompanied by the pilot prahu, proceeded up the +Saghai river: the next day we arrived in sight of Baloongan. Heaving to, +to load our guns, and get our fire-arms in readiness (for we expected a +hostile reception), we then hoisted a flag of truce and pulled up to the +town. What first occupied our attention was a green plot in front of the +town, on which were mounted from fifteen to twenty guns, which were +continually pointed so as to bear upon us as we pulled up, and which +were backed by some thousands, I should think, of Malays and savages, +all well armed with spears and knives. This looked like business, but we +pulled on, with the white flag still flying. A canoe came off, +containing, as at Gonong Tabor, the prime minister. He waved with his +hand, ordering us to anchor, and pointing to the guns, which the natives +still continued to train after us. The captain refused to anchor, and +pulled on; we were then almost abreast and within thirty yards of the +battery. As we passed it within ten yards, the natives kept the muzzles +pointed at our boats, and we expected them every moment to fire. Had +they done so, we might have received considerable damage; but what would +their loss have been when we had opened with round, grape, and canister, +and congreve rockets, upon such an exposed and densely crowded +multitude? They contented themselves, however, with yelling, which does +not kill, and, passing the battery, we dropped our anchor close to the +gate of the stockade by which the town was surrounded. + +In passing the battery, and refusing to anchor, the captain adopted the +most prudent and safe course; for we had long before discovered that +decision is absolutely necessary with these people. The least hesitation +on our part would have fortified their courage to attack; but they are +so much awed by our superior arms, and I may safely add the superior +courage of our men, that they never will, however much they may +threaten, be the first to come to blows, provided there is no +vacillation or unsteadiness on our parts. This the captain knew, and +acted accordingly. + +After returning their salute of twenty-one guns, the captain, with some +of the officers and a party of small-armed men passed through a line of +Dyaks to the hall of audience, which, as usual, was crowded to excess +with armed Malays. The sultan, who was a stout athletic man, received us +very cordially, but his confused manners and restless eyes showed that +he was not at his ease. His dress consisted of a yellow satin jacket, +over which he wore another of purple silk, worked and hemmed with lace. +His trousers and turban were made of similar materials. Shoes and +stockings he had none, and wearing both jackets open, his chest was +exposed. The sultan acknowledged that the Lascars were still in his +territory, but, as two of them were at some distance in the interior, it +would require a few days to bring them in. He appeared very glad that +the business was settling so easily, for he no doubt expected an inquiry +and a demand for all the ship's stores, the major portion of which had +found their way to Baloongan. The chain cables must have been invaluable +to the natives, and I detected several links which had been partly +converted into spear-heads. + +There was nothing worthy of remark in the town of Baloongan. We were +very much interested in the Dyak tribes, who were the same as those +described at Gonong Tabor, and in greater numbers. They were equally +tall, and appeared to be the very perfection of savage warriors. They +invited us several times to pay them a visit on the hills, where they +resided. These Dyaks appeared very friendly to us, and one of them, an +intelligent fellow, of the name of Meta, volunteered to take a letter +overland to Mr. Brooke: his mode of travelling was by pulling up the +Saghai river to its source in his canoe, till he came close to the +source of the Coran, and by his account the two rivers nearly meet. He +took the letter, binding it round his head with a piece of linen; but I +do not know if ever it was delivered. One observation I made relative to +these Saghai Dyaks, which was, that much as they must have been +astonished at our arms and equipments, like the North American Indians, +they never allowed the least sign of it to be perceived. + +At the end of a week the prisoners returned in a very miserable +condition. They had been at work, pounding paddy and digging yams; and +they stated that they had not sufficient allowed to eat to support +existence, besides being beat about the legs with bamboos. Two of the +twelve died evidently from ill treatment and exhaustion. Their gratitude +at being delivered from their slavery was beyond bounds; and it +certainly is not very creditable to the master of the Premier to have +abandoned them in the way he did, when a word from him would have +procured their liberty. + +We returned to the ship, and the next day ran down to the Premier Reef; +the captain then went again to the Panti river, in the boats, to +conclude the treaty with the sultan of Gonong Tabor. This was soon +accomplished; and giving him an union jack to hoist, at which he was +much pleased, we bade him farewell. + +We finished the survey of the Premier Shoal, as it is now named, and +then steered for the island of Maratua, which the sultan of Gonong Tabor +had by his treaty made over to the English, representing it as having an +excellent harbour and good water; but on our arrival we were much +disappointed to find an island surrounded by reefs, with only one +intricate passage through them and sufficiently wide only for boats. +Probably the sultan knew no better. As we were very short of water, we +now made sail for Sooloo, and fell in with the Sooloo prahu, which had +been sent to us as a pilot, and which we had never seen since she went +up the river Panti before us. She had been waiting for us outside, and +the people were very much pleased at finding us, as they feared being +taken by the pirates of Tawee-Tawee. After having been nearly wrecked on +a reef, and having grounded on another, we anchored off the Lugutan +islands, and despatched the two cutters in search of water. One of them +attacked and burnt a prahu, because she looked suspicious; the other did +better, she discovered a stream of water, off which we anchored the same +evening. Having completed wood and water, we sailed for Sooloo, where +we arrived on the Sunday. We were surprised to find a French squadron +anchored in the bay. It consisted of the Cleopatra, 50-gun frigate, Rear +Admiral Cecile, with an ambassador on board, the Victorieuse, 22, and +the Alchimede war steamer. They were treating with the sultan of Sooloo +for the island of Basilan, the natives of which had beat off their +boats, with the loss of a lieutenant and four men killed and many +wounded. The island of Basilan is subject to Sooloo, although the +natives have refused to pay tribute for many years. The French, aware of +this, and wishing to establish a colony in the East, offered the sultan +20,000 dollars if he would make over the island to them; but this was +not acceded to, the chiefs being divided on the question. The people of +Sooloo have a great dislike to all Europeans, but particularly to the +French. Treacherous as we and the French knew them to be, we little +thought to have it proved in so fearful a manner. About a mile to the +right of the town is a spring, where all the ships watered. One day some +peculiar looking berries were found in the pool, which, on examination, +proved to be deadly poison, the natives having thrown them in with the +intention of poisoning us _en masse_. The water was of course started +overboard, and intelligence sent to Admiral Cecile, who was highly +incensed. + +[Illustration: PORTRAIT OF MAHOMED PULLULU, SULTAN OF SOOLOO.] + +It was singular by what means this discovery was made. One of the seamen +of the Samarang complained of a stinging sensation in his feet from +having wetted them in the pool. Our assistant surgeon happening to be on +shore at the time, caused the watering to be stopped, and the pool to be +examined. Buried in the sand, at the bottom of the pool, and secured in +wicker baskets, were found those poisonous berries, which the natives +had concealed there. As soon as Admiral Cecile received the information, +all the water was thrown overboard, and the boats of the whole squadron, +manned and armed, landed the French admiral, the ambassador, and our +captain. They repaired to the palace of the sultan, who not only +expressed his abhorrence of the attempt, but promised to put to death +the parties if they could be discovered. The attempt did not, however, +stop here. In addition to fruit, the boats at Sooloo brought off rice +cakes, which were eagerly bought by the seamen. Some of the chiefs +issued an order for a large number of poisoned cakes, which they +intended for our consumption; but fortunately the order was so extensive +that it got wind, and we were warned of what was intended by a native of +Manilla, who had been captured by pirates and sold at Sooloo. In reward +for this intelligence, we gave him, and others of the same place, a +passage to Manilla, taking care, however, that they should be smuggled +on board. Sailed for Manilla, staid there a few days, and then went to +Batan, from thence to Hong Kong, where we arrived on the 1st of April, +and found the Iris and Castor in the harbour. + +[Illustration: TANKA BOATS--HONG KONG,] + +There never was, perhaps, so rapid a rise in any settlement made by the +English as that of Hong Kong, considering the very short time that it +has been in our possession. Where, two years back, there existed but a +few huts, you now behold a well-built and improving town, with +churches, hotels, stores, wharves, and godowns. The capacious harbour +which, but a short time ago, was only visited by some Chinese junks or +English opium clippers, is now swarming with men-of-war and merchant +ships. The town extends along the base of the mountain. Every day some +improvement takes place in this fast-growing colony, but, from the +scarcity of building ground, house rent is very dear, and every thing +has risen in proportion. The town which, from the irregularity of the +ground, has but one street of importance, lies under the highest part of +a rock, which is called Possession Peak. It is built on a kind of ledge, +but this is so steep that the basements of the back houses can be seen +over the roofs of those in the front, although the houses are no further +apart than is necessary for the streets. Above the town the rock rises +almost perpendicularly; but every spot which can be built upon is +appropriated, and scattered buildings may be seen half way up the rock, +only accessible by tortuous and narrow paths. The houses are built of +white freestone; many of them are handsome erections, and on a fine day +the town of Victoria has an imposing appearance. + +The island is now intersected by roads, in some parts necessarily +precipitous, but equestrians can make the circuit of Hong Kong without +any other risk but from the marauding Chinese, who, in spite of the +police, still find means of exercising their vocation. To the left of +the town of Victoria is a very pretty valley, but in the middle of it is +a swamp, which renders the place so unhealthy that no one can reside +there: some who did, died there; and there are one or two neat little +villas on it, now untenanted and falling into ruins. Strange to say, it +still bears the name of Happy Valley. + +The harbour is completely land locked, and has two entrances. One side +of it is formed by Hong Kong, the other by Kow-loon, which is part of +the mainland. + +[Illustration: WEST POINT. + +HONG KONG. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +But all this has its reverse. The unhealthiness of the climate is very +great, and this is impressed upon the stranger while at anchor in the +roads; for the first object that meets his eye is the Minden hospital +ship, with her flag continually half mast high, announcing that another +poor sailor had gone to his long home. When you land you will certainly +meet a funeral; and watching the countenances of the passers by, their +sallow complexions, and their debilitated frames, with the total +unconcern with which they view the mournful processions, you may assure +yourself that they must be of daily and hourly occurrence. And such is +the fact. + +I was sorry to find that murders and robberies were most frequent at +Hong Kong, although the police force has been augmented from London, and +is under the charge of an experienced officer. While on shore, I +observed the body of a Chinaman rise to the surface, disfigured in a +horrible manner, and although notice was sent immediately to the +authorities, it was allowed to remain beating against the wharf till +late in the afternoon, when it was towed out and sunk in the middle of +the harbour. + +I once witnessed the punishment of a Chinese robber at the market gate; +he had been apprehended on the preceding night. His tail, which was +false, and filled with blades of knives, needles, &c., came off in the +officer's hands. However, he was secured, and received a daily allowance +of fifty lashes, which was continued as long as he was capable of +bearing the punishment, and then he was sent to work on the roads. + +I left H. M. S. Samarang at this port, and joined the Iris, commanded by +Captain Mundy, whose high character as an officer and a gentleman I well +knew; unfortunately I was only lent to the Iris, and the consequence +was, as will be seen, I had ultimately to return to the Samarang. I +found that the Iris was to sail for the north coast of China, and I was +delighted at the idea of visiting those parts, which there was little +chance of if I had remained in the Samarang. + +[Illustration: CHINESE FISHERMEN.] + +One object of the Iris proceeding to the coast of China was to carry +General D'Aguilar and suite on a visit to the most interesting of the +hostage ports. We sailed on the 6th of April, and after a week's beating +arrived at Chapel Island, at the mouth of Amoy bay. This bay is very +spacious, being nearly thirty miles deep. To the left of the entrance is +a high peak, on the summit of which is built a splendid pagoda, serving +as a landmark to vessels coming from seaward. The town of Amoy is built +at the bottom of the bay. Close to it, and forming an inner harbour, is +the island of Ku-lang-so, near to which we dropped our anchor. +Ku-lang-so is a pretty island, about a mile in diameter. Up to the +evacuation of Amoy it had been occupied by our troops; and the remains +of a race course and a theatre prove that the gallant 18th had contrived +to amuse themselves. At the present time it is all but deserted, the +only European residents being Mr. Sullivan, the Vice Consul; the +Chinese, who had been driven from it at the capture of the city, not +having as yet returned. The houses on it are prettily disposed, and some +rich foliage and green pasture give an English character to the scenery, +and are very refreshing, after continually looking at the everlasting +paddy fields, which constitute the principal features of the sea coast +of China. It is to this circumstance that I ascribe the exaggerated +accounts we have of the beauty of the island of Ku-lang-so. It forms, +however, a very pleasant promenade, and may be enjoyed without +interruption from the inhabitants. The city of Amoy is built on a low +neck of land. The houses are of a dusky tint, and from the anchorage are +indistinguishable through forests of junks' masts, which surround the +town. To the right of the town, and extending to some distance, is a +fortified wall, which gave some trouble at the capture. I landed with a +party to walk through the city. The streets are narrow and dirty, the +open shops on either side reminding you very much of Constantinople. The +population is immense, the streets are always crowded. We soon found +that we were objects of attention, and were followed by a mob. It was +with difficulty that we could force our way; and, moreover, the town +having been lately evacuated by our troops, the Chinese thought +themselves secure in venting their animosity, by pushing, jostling, and +throwing stones at us. In this, however, they were mistaken, for being a +tolerably strong party, and knowing that they had a very wholesome fear +of us, we were not slow in resorting to blows when intreaties proved in +vain; and, before we were in the middle of the town, more than one +celestial head had come in contact with the pavement. One had the +impudence to bellow in my face; for which impertinence he received a +facer, which gave him something to bellow for. Those, however, who +"were at a distance had the means of annoying with impunity, and we were +glad to take refuge in a pastry cook's shop, which happened most +opportunely to present itself. + +[Illustration: COOK'S SHOP.] + +On our entering, we were each presented with a pair of chop sticks, and +a large tray was placed before us, filled with sweetmeats of every +description. There were nutmegs and other spices, ginger, sugar cane, +bamboo, and the knee-bone palm, preserved in the most exquisite manner. +Every thing was so novel, chop sticks not excepted, that it was quite +fearful the extent to which we indulged in the sweetmeats; however, as +we had no maiden aunts ready with their doses, as in our infancy, we ate +and spared not. Cakes of the most recherche description, and pastry, the +lightness of which would have shamed Gunter, were each and all in their +turn discussed; and what was our astonishment to find that, on calling +for the bill, the charge amounted to about sixpence. + +We visited as much of the town as the mob would permit, but I shall +reserve my description of a genuine Chinese town until our arrival to +the northward. The joss-houses at Amoy are not remarkable, and one +description of these buildings will suffice for all. + +We lay at Amoy for about a week, during which the Mandarins paid us a +full dress visit. They were extremely cautious, and remained on board +for a couple of hours. At their departure we gave them the economical +Chinese salute of three guns. During our stay here I amused myself +principally on the island of Ku-lang-so, and I was not sorry when we +weighed anchor, and, with a fair wind, made sail for Chusan. + +Chusan is the largest of a closely packed group of islands, near to the +main land of China, and about 500 miles to the northward of Amoy. These +islands, many of them very diminutive, are so close to each other, that +on threading them to approach the town of Chusan, the channel wears the +appearance of a small river branching out into every direction. If the +leading marks were removed it would be a complete marine labyrinth, and +a boat might pull and pull in and out for the whole day, without +arriving at its destination. Narrow, however, as is the passage, with a +due precaution, and the necessary amount of backing and filling, there +is sufficient water for ships of the largest size. At sunset we anchored +off the town of Chusan. Here the islands form a beautiful little +harbour, sufficiently capacious. The island being covered with tea +plants, the panorama is pretty and refreshing. From the anchorage little +can be seen of the town, as it is built on a flat, and hidden by a +parapet and bank of mud, which runs along the bottom of the harbour. +This temporary fortification is called a bund, and was erected by the +Chinese previous to the capture of the place. Behind this bund is an +esplanade, parallel with which are houses, which serve as barracks for +the troops, and the residences of the civil and military functionaries. +The country is hilly, and several commanding forts are visible from the +anchorage. + +On landing, we directed our steps to the town by a causeway which leads +from the landing-place to the gates between the fields of paddy, which +are, as usual, swamped with water. The sides of this causeway are lined +with shops; and the island being occupied by the English, soon stared +you in the face, in the shape of boards in front of each shop, bearing +such inscriptions as "Snip, from Pekin," "Stultz, from Ningpo," and +others equally ludicrous, in good English letters. There were +"Buckmasters" and "Hobys" innumerable; Licensed Victuallers and "Dealers +in Grocery." Passing a tolerably well constructed gate, guarded by an +English sentry, we entered the town. The streets are cleaner than those +of Amoy, and not so narrow; but what gave us most satisfaction was, that +our appearance excited no attention; and we enjoyed our walk, and made +our observations uninterruptedly. + +Our first visit was to a toy-shop: a great many articles were exposed +for sale, and many very beautiful carvings; they were, however, far too +delicate for a midshipman's chest, and the price did not exactly suit a +midshipman's pocket. A silk warehouse next occupied our attention: here +we were shown some beautiful embroidery, some of which was purchased. +After walking over the whole town, we proceeded to the principal +joss-house: this was very handsome; but I was sorry that it had been +selected as a barrack, and was occupied by a company of sepoys. The +altar was converted into a stand for arms, and the god Fo was accoutred +with a sheath and cross belt. To complete the absurdity, a green demon +before the altar was grinning maliciously from under the weight of a +frieze coat. At the entrance of the joss-house is a covered porch, under +which are two figures sitting, and in this posture nearly twenty feet +high. The interior of the house is handsomely ornamented and gilt; and +behind the altar there is a row of some fifteen figures, in a sitting +posture, all gilt from head to foot, and forming a very goodly assembly: +they represented old men wrapped in togas, with faces expressive of +instruction, revelation, and wisdom. There was nothing Chinese in their +features; the heads were shaved, and it is to be presumed that they +represented the prophets and holy writers who flourished antecedent to +the great Fo. The expression on their countenances was admirable; and +surprised us the more, from a knowledge how fond the Chinese are of +filling their temples with unnatural and unmeaning devils. + +We then visited a smaller god-house: this the 8th regiment had converted +into a theatre. Very little traces of a holy temple were discernible; +and the great Fo occupied a corner of the green-room. The scenes were +painted in fresco, and the whole affair was very tolerably arranged. +Most part of the scenery had been painted by my brother during his stay +at this port in the Cambrian. The Chinamen consider this no sacrilege, +as they always use the temples as theatres themselves. + +During the winter months Chusan is very cold, and the snow lies on the +ground. The country there abounds with game--deer, swans, partridges, +pheasants, and wild fowl of every description: the prices are very +moderate; a fine buck may be purchased for a dollar, and a brace of +pheasants for a rupee. It was now the month of May, and the swans and +geese had departed, and game was becoming scarce as the weather became +fine; still, however, there was a duck or so to be picked up, so I +joined a party bent on trying their luck, and we prepared for a hard +day's work. + +No one who has not tried it can have an idea of the fatigue of a day's +shooting at Chusan. Having a Chinese covered boat, we loaded her with +quite sufficient to support nature for twenty-four hours; and pulling +about four miles through the channels intersecting the islands, we +landed about daylight. Before us was a vast paddy field, into which we +plunged up to our knees in mud and water. As we approached one of the +dykes which convey the water for the irrigation, caution was observed, +not a word was uttered by one of the party, and our good behaviour was +rewarded by a brace of fine birds, which were deposited in the bag, +carried by a celestial under-keeper. Crossing the dyke, we continued to +wade through the paddy fields, shooting some plover and a red-legged +partridge, until we arrived at a Chinese village. We passed through it, +and fell in with a herd of water buffaloes, as they term them. One of +them charged furiously, but the contents of one of our barrels in his +eyes made him start in mid career; and having had quite enough into his +head, he turned to us his tail. These animals show a great antipathy to +Europeans, probably from not having been accustomed to their dress. Red, +of course, makes them furious, and, thanks to his jacket, a drummer of +one of the regiments was killed by these animals. Towards evening we +felt it quite impossible to wade any further; and although nightfall is +considered the best time for shooting ducks, we thought it was the best +time to return to the boat, which we did not regain, fatigued, hungry, +and covered with mud, till ten o'clock at night. + +[Illustration: VIEW ON THE ISLAND OF POO-TOO. + +(NEAR CHUSAN.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +One day, strolling in the country about four miles from Chusan, we fell +in with a very pretty little house surrounded with trees. The courtesy +usually shown to the English at Chusan induced us to enter it, that we +might inspect the premises. Its owner, a mandarin, was absent, but his +major-domo took us over the whole house. The round doors and +oyster-shell windows amused us greatly. The garden was ornamented with +artificial rocks, studded with flowering shrubs, with great taste. There +were two or three grottoes, in one of which was a joss; and an arbour of +lilacs and laburnums, in full bloom, gave a charming appearance to the +whole. Thanking the Chinaman for his civility, we went away, much +pleased with the mandarin's country retreat. + +During our stay at Chusan we had made a party to go to the island of +Poo-too, but we were hurried away sooner than we expected, and our +design was frustrated. I will, however, give a description of the island +of Poo-too, as described to me. This island is about forty miles from +Chusan, and is inhabited solely by priests. These being condemned to a +life of celibacy, no woman resides on the island, which is covered with +temples of all descriptions, many of them very handsome, but one in +particular, which was built by the emperor. The island is not large, and +is laid out like a vast garden, with squares and walks, bridges, &c. + +We left Chusan, and soon afterwards anchored off the mouth of the Ningpo +River, which is only thirty miles to northward and westward of the +Chusan isles. The first object of interest before us was the famous +joss-house fort, which gave us so much trouble at the capture. General +D'Aguilar and Captain Mundy being about to visit the city of Ningpo, a +party of us obtained a week's leave of absence for the same purpose. We +landed in a ship's boat at Chinghae, a small but tolerably fortified +town, which, however, needs no description. There we obtained a covered +Chinese boat, in which we put our beds and blankets, intending to live +on board her during our stay at Ningpo. Starting with a fair wind and +tide, by noon we were within five miles of the city, which is built +about forty miles up the river. The banks of the river appeared to be +highly cultivated, and the river was crowded with boats of all +descriptions, some going up with the tide, others at anchor, waiting for +the tide to change, to go in an opposite direction. The first that we +saw of Ningpo was a low wall, from the middle of which rose a tall +pagoda. This, with innumerable masts of the vessels lying off the town, +was all that was visible: nor could we discern much more on a nearer +approach. Threading the crowd of vessels which filled the river, on our +left we could only see the wall and battlements of the town, the +before-mentioned pagoda soaring above every thing. To the right, on the +side of the river opposite to the town, were several detached houses, +surrounded with low shrubberies; behind these was the Chinese country, +and then the eye wandered over countless paddy fields, until it at last +rested upon some faint blue mountains in the distance. + +Among the houses on the right was that of the vice-consul, Mr. Thorn. +Anchoring our boat as near to his landing-place as possible, we made +arrangements for the night, it being then too late to pay him the +accustomed visit. We had, however, scarcely spread our mattresses, and +put some supper on the fire, when we were hailed by a Chinese boy, and +requested to come on shore. Ignorant from whence the invitation might +come, but nothing loath, we hauled our boat to the jetty, and, landing, +followed young pigtail, who ushered us through a court-yard into a house +of tolerable dimensions, agreeably arranged according to English ideas +of comfort. In five minutes more we were introduced to Mr. Mackenzie, an +English merchant, who, having been informed of our arrival, had sent for +us to request that, during our stay at Ningpo, we would make his house +our home. We would not tax his hospitality so far as to sleep at his +house, having already made our own arrangements; but we willingly +accepted his kind offer of being his guests during the day, and proved +our sincerity by immediately sitting down to an excellent dinner, and in +the evening we retreated to our boat. The next morning we breakfasted +with our host, and then crossed the river, to inspect the city. Having +landed at one of the gates, we hired a sort of sedan chairs, which were +carried by two athletic Tartars, and proceeded to examine a very +remarkable building called the Ruined Pagoda. I shall give Dr. Milne's +description of it, taken out of the Chinese repository, as I think it +will be better than my own:-- + +"We bent our steps to the Tien-fung, called by foreigners the Ruined +Pagoda. Foreigners make for it as soon as they enter the east gate. +After shaping their course in a south-east direction through numberless +streets, it abruptly bursts upon the view, rising 160 feet above their +heads, and towering high above the surrounding houses. The pagoda is +hexagonal, and counts seven stories and twenty-eight windows. Above +every window is a lantern, and when the pagoda is illuminated, the +effect is very brilliant. This building is in much need of repair, and +is daily becoming more dilapidated. It has already deviated many feet +from the perpendicular, and might not unaptly be described as the +Leaning Tower of Ningpo." + +Dr. Milne thus describes the view from the summit:-- + +"The entire city and suburbs lay beneath us; the valley of Ningpo, with +its hamlets and villages, hills and rivers, on every side; and away in +the distance, on the one hand chains of lofty mountains, the sea, with +all its islands, on the other." Dr. Milne asserts that Ningpo is 10,000 +years old, and that the pagoda was raised antecedent to the city being +built. He concludes by explaining the object of the Chinese in raising +these monuments. + +[Illustration: PAGODA--NINGPO.] + +The view from the summit is remarkably fine, and the ruinous condition +of the pagoda almost warrants the supposition of its being nearly as +ancient as Dr. Milne asserts. I made a drawing of it, and we then +proceeded to the joss-house, which is considered as the handsomest in +the Celestial empire. No part of the building was visible from the +street, and we stopped at an unpretending door where we dismounted from +our vehicles. A Bhuddist priest, clothed in grey and his head shaved, +ushered us through a long gallery into the court-yard of the temple. To +describe this building accurately would be impossible. It was gilt and +carved from floor to ceiling. The porch was supported by pillars of +stone beautifully carved with figures of griffins and snakes. In the +court-yard were two lions carved out of a purple marble, and in the +middle of the yard was an immense brazen ram highly ornamented with +hieroglyphics and allegorical designs. As for the temple itself, it was +so vast, so intricate, and so various in its designs and gildings, that +I can only say picture to yourself a building composed entirely of +carving, coloured porcelain, and gilding, and then you may have a faint +idea of it. I attempted to make a drawing of it, but before I had +obtained much more than the outline, it was time to recross the river. +We dined and passed the evening with Mr. Mackenzie as before. The next +morning I walked to the Chinese cemetery with my gun in my hand, and +shot a few snipe and wood pigeons, and after breakfast we crossed the +river to pay a visit to the shops of Ningpo. The streets of the city are +narrow, but superior to any that we had yet seen. The principal streets +are ornamented with stone arches, and the huge painted boards used by +the Chinese for advertisements give them a very gay appearance. We first +entered into a furniture warehouse, some 300 yards in length, and filled +with Chinese bedsteads carved and gilt in a very splendid manner. These +bedsteads consist of moveable frames about twelve feet square, and +within them are disposed couches, chairs, tables, and the requisites for +the toilet, besides a writing desk, so that a bedstead in China contains +all the furniture of the room. Some of these were valued at five and six +hundred dollars, but were very highly ornamented and of exquisite +workmanship. + +A hat shop was the next visited. Its interior would have been considered +splendid even in Regent Street. A long highly polished counter with a +top of cane-work, was loaded with the hats and caps of Mandarins of +every class, and the display was very tempting to those who wanted them. +We then passed five minutes in a porcelain warehouse; from the warehouse +we went to a toy-shop, and being by this time pretty well encumbered +with mandarins' hats and caps, gongs, and a variety of other articles +which we did not want, at the same time making the discovery that our +purses were not encumbered with dollars as they were when we set forth, +we thought it advisable to leave off shopping for the day. + +The next day we visited the Hall of Confucius, which was not worth +seeing, nor could we discover to what use it was dedicated, so we turned +from it and went off to see a Chinese play. As we proceeded to the +theatre we were surprised to hear a lad singing "Jim along Josey," we +turned round and found it was a real pig tail who was singing, and we +inquired where he learnt the air. We found that he had served on board +one of our vessels during the Chinese war, so we hired the young traitor +as a cicerone during our stay at Ningpo, and ordered him to follow us to +the theatre, which as usual was a temple or joss-house. + +[Illustration: CHINESE JOSS HOUSE AT NINGPO. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +We found it crowded with Chinese, and the actors were performing on a +raised platform. Our entrance caused a great sensation, and for a short +time the performance was unnoticed by the audience. Our beaver hats +quite puzzled them, for we were in plain clothes; even the actors +indulged in a stare, and for a short time we were "better than a play." +The Chinese acting has been often described: all I can say is, that so +far it was like real life that all the actors were speaking at one time, +and it was impossible to hear what they said, even if the gongs had not +kept up a continual hammering, which effectually drowned the voices. At +all events they were well off in the property line, being all very +showily dressed. Fireworks were at intervals exploded, and occasionally +a tumbler would perform some feat, but I felt little interest in the +performance, and kept my eyes on the gallery containing the ladies, +among whom I saw one or two very pretty faces. + +The wall round Ningpo is built wide enough for a carriage drive. It has +embrasures, but no guns were mounted. By ascending some steps near to +the town gate we found ourselves on the top of the wall, and walked half +round the town on the parapet. It was very extensive, and, as far as the +eye could reach, the plain was studded with country houses of a slate +colour. + +I forgot to mention that while here we visited a sect of Chinese nuns or +female devotees. They were assembled in a large room, at one end of +which was an image of the god Fo. Each nun was seated at a small table +on which was a reading stand and a book of prayers. They were all +reading, and at the same time beating a hollow painted piece of wood: +the latter duty was, we were informed, to keep up the attention of the +god. What with them all gabbling at once, and the tapping noise made +with the wood, god Fo appeared more likely to have his attention +distracted than otherwise. However, it was of no consequence, as Fo was +one of that description of gods mentioned in the Bible, among whose +attributes we find, "Ears have they, but they hear not." + +We remained here a week, and I was much interested with what I saw; but +so much has already been written about the Chinese, that I wish to +confine myself to what may be considered unbroken ground. As the time +fixed for our departure approached, we determined to go to Chinghae +overland, in chairs. Taking a farewell of our kind and hospitable host, +Mr. Mackenzie, we each took a chair, and took our departure. The road +was interesting, being at one time through tea plantations, and at +another through paddy fields. Our bearers were strong muscular fellows, +and thought little of carrying us twenty-five miles. We passed crowds of +Chinamen irrigating the land, and working in the paddy fields. In some +instances they favoured us with a salute of yells and stones; and as we +approached Chinghae, the unwashed vented their feelings in some very +unpleasant ways. In the town we were followed by a mob; and by the time +we had reached the quay, and procured a boat to take us off to the ship, +the whole town had turned out. Tapping one or two of the most officious +with the bamboo oars, we managed to shove the boat off, and pulled on +board. + +We sailed for Chusan the same evening, but this time I unfortunately was +attacked by one of the prevailing diseases of the country, and was +confined to my hammock. We revisited Amoy, and then shaped our course +for Hong Kong. On our arrival, we found no ship there but the Castor, +the admiral and fleet being employed on the coast of Borneo, subduing +the pirates in Maludu Bay. The ship being again about to start for the +northward, I was considered too unwell to remain in her, and was sent on +board the Minden hospital ship, to live or to die, as it might please +God. + +The Minden hospital ship is a fine 74; and as all the guns, masts, and +stores, had been landed at the time that she was selected for the duty, +there was great accommodation on board of her; but great as it was, +unfortunately there was not sufficient to meet the demands upon it in +this unhealthy climate. A description of her internal arrangement may +not be uninteresting. The quarter-deck and poop was set apart for the +convalescents; but the heat of the sun was so overpowering, that it was +not until late in the afternoon that they could breathe the purer +atmosphere. Long confinement below had left them pale and wan, and their +unsteady gait proved how much they had suffered in their constitution, +and how narrowly they had escaped the grave. To some this escape had +been beneficial, as their constant perusal of the Bible established; +others, if they even had during their illness alarms about their future +state, had already dismissed them from their thoughts, and were +impatiently awaiting their return to health to return to past folly and +vice. The main deck was allotted to the medical and other officers +belonging to the ship, the seamen who composed the ship's company, and +also on this deck were located the seamen who had been discharged cured, +and who then waited for the arrival of their ships, which were absent +from Hong Kong. On this deck, abaft all, was the inspector's cabin, and +adjoining it the mess-room of the assistant-surgeons, who, like all +their class, rendered callous by time and habit to their dangerous and +painful duty, thought only of driving away the memory of the daily +mortality to which they were witnesses by jovial living and mirth. +Indeed nothing could be a more harassing scene than that of the lower +deck, where the patients were located. Under any circumstances an +hospital is a depressing and afflicting sight, even with all the +advantages of clean well-regulated wards, attentive nurses, and pure +ventilation. Imagine then the feelings of a sick wretch, stretched on a +canvass cot, who is first hoisted up the ship's side, and then lowered +down a dark hatchway (filled with anxiety and forebodings as to his ever +leaving the vessel alive) to the scene of misery which I am about to +describe--the lower deck of the Minden hospital ship. + +This lower deck has on each side of it three rows of iron bedsteads, for +the most part filled with the dead and dying; an intolerable stench, +arising from putrefaction, which it is impossible by any means to get +rid of, salutes his descent; and to this is added the groans of +lingering sufferers. He may chance, God help him, to be lowered down at +the very hour of the inspecting surgeon's visits. The latter is seated +by a bed, having probably just performed, or in the act of performing, +an operation. The goodly array of instruments meets his eye, and he +wonders, as they are displayed, what these several instruments of +torture can be applied to; the groans of the patient fall upon his ear, +and his nerves are so shattered and debilitated by disease, that the +blood curdles to his heart. The inspector writes the particulars of the +case on a printed form, while the dressers are passing bandages round +the fainting patient. As soon as he is out of the cot which lowered him +down, the new arrival is washed, and clothed in hospital linen, ready to +be put into a bed. Not unfrequently he has to wait till room can be made +for him, by removing the corpse of the last occupant, just deceased. He +is then placed on it, a coarse sheet is thrown over him, and he is left +to await the inspector's visit, which, as that officer has all his +former patients first to prescribe for, may perhaps be not for an hour +or two, or more. At last he is visited, prescribed for, a can of +rice-water is placed at the head of his bed, and he is left to his own +thoughts, if the groans of those around him, and the horror that he +feels at his situation, will permit him to reach them. If he can do so, +they must be any thing but agreeable; and a clever medical man told me +that this admission into the hospital, and the scene which the patient +was introduced to, was quite sufficient, acting upon a mind unnerved by +disease, to produce fever. Excepting that the hospital was too crowded, +which indeed could not be prevented, there was, however, every +arrangement for the comfort of the patients which could be made under +such a climate. No one was to blame--the hospital for the military was +building, and until it was ready for the reception of the patients, the +men of both services were received on board of the Minden. But if the +day is so trying, who can describe the horrors of the night? The +atmosphere becomes still more foul and pestilential, from the partially +closed port-holes, and from the indifference of the nurses to the +necessary cleanliness required. The whole becomes alive with cockroaches +and other vermin, creeping over the patients; and the mosquitoes prey +upon the unfortunate sufferer, or drive him mad with their unceasing +humming preparatory to their attacks. Add these new trials to the groans +of the dying, which, during my residence on board, never ceased, and at +night were more awful and painfully distinct. The nurses were all men, +obtained from the scum of the sea-ports, for no others would volunteer +for the duty--a set of brutes indifferent to the sufferings of others. +As long as they were, during the day, superintended and watched by the +officers, they did their duty, but at night the neglect was most +shameful. In fact, these wretches composed themselves to sleep instead +of watching. Patients may in vain call, in a feeble voice, for +water--the only answer is a snore. On one occasion, having listened to +the call of a poor fellow for more than an hour, and each time in a +weaker voice, for drink, I was obliged to get up myself to wake the +nurse, that the man might not die of thirst.[2] + + [Footnote 2: These rascally nurses have all been discharged. + When enlisted as nurses in England, they signed for three + years' service. When their time was expired, they applied to + Admiral Cochrane for their discharge. After some demur their + request was complied with; but their conduct had been so + disgraceful, that, as it was not in the agreement, they were + refused a passage home in a man-of-war. I met some of them + ashore at Hong Kong, looking in vain for employment, and at a + distance of 20,000 miles from their own country. The + retribution was just.] + +My cabin, for all the officers were separated from the men, commanded +the whole view of the lower deck, and I was compelled to be witness of +scenes of the most frightful description. An English sailor had been +hung for murder, in consequence of his accomplice, who was by far the +most criminal of the two, having turned queen's evidence. This latter +soon afterwards was brought on board the Minden, having been attacked +with the fever, and never was there such an evidence of the racking of a +bad conscience. In his ravings he shrieked for mercy, and then would +blaspheme in the most awful manner. At one moment the spectre of his +dead comrade would be invoked by him, requesting it to depart, or +desiring those around him to take it away. At others, the murdered man +was standing at his bed-side, and he would attempt to run, that he might +flee from the vision. Thus was he haunted, and thus did he disturb all +around him till his very last hour, when he died in an extreme of agony, +physical and mental. What a relief it was when this poor wretch was at +last silent! + +Almost every day there was to be seen a Roman Catholic priest +administering the last unction to some disciple of his faith, some Irish +soldier or sailor, whose hour was come. On these occasions the +amputation table was his altar, and a brass flat candlestick the only +ornament. He never failed to be at his post every day, and was a good +old man. At the same time that the old priest was officiating by the +side of one bed, the chaplain of the ship would be attending the last +moments of some other victim. On these occasions all would be silent on +the deck, even the groans were stifled and checked for the time, and +nothing would be heard but the muttered prayer of the Catholic priest, +or the last, and often futile, attempts of the clergyman of our own +creed to extract some sign of faith and hope from the fast-sinking and +almost senseless patient. + + "He dies, and makes no sign! O God, forgive him!" + +At times the uproar on the deck would be appalling. Some powerful man in +the strength of delirium would rise from his bed, and, bursting from +some half-dozen of the nurses, would rush through the tiers of beds +roaring like a bull, and dealing blows right and left upon the +unfortunate sick men who fell in his way. Then there would be general +chase after him, until, overpowered by additional help, he was brought +back to his bed and confined by force. An hour or two afterwards, the +nurses who watched him would quit the side of the pallet; a sheet would +be thrown over it; no other communication was necessary to tell me that +the storm had been succeeded by a calm, and that life's fitful fever was +over. + +At the forepart of the hospital deck is a bath room; adjoining to that +is a small dark cabin, with no other furniture than a long white-washed +board, laid upon two tressels, with hooks fixed to the carlines of the +deck. Above these the dead bodies are removed: immediately after their +decease a _post mortem_ examination is made by the assistant surgeon, a +report of which is sent into the inspector. A port-hole has a wooden +shoot or slide fixed to it, by which the bodies are ejected into the +boat waiting to convey them for interment. + +The church service is read every morning on the hospital deck, and +during the performance the strictest attention was paid by the patients. +When convalescent I enjoyed the privilege of walking on the poop with +the others who had been spared, and truly grateful was I for my +recovery. Such scenes as I have described could not but have the effect +upon me: I hope that I left the hospital a wiser and a better man. + +At last the time came when I was pronounced by the doctors to be quite +cured, and at liberty to leave the ship. I hardly need say that I did so +with alacrity. I had always before this considered Hong Kong as a most +disgusting place; but now that I had been so long cooped up with disease +and death, it appeared to me as a paradise. I had made one or two +acquaintances during my former visits, and now found their kind offers +too welcome to refuse them. Having nothing to do, and not being even +obliged to present myself on board of the Mind en, I enjoyed myself +excessively in journeys and excursions to the other side of the island. +My acquaintances were the officers of the 42d regiment, who were +remarkably kind and intelligent men, and during my stay I was a great +deal in their society. We one day made up a party to visit Pirate's Bay, +a spot on the Chinese main, about twelve miles from Hong Kong. Starting +early, we took our guns and the requisites for a pic-nic. When we +arrived at the spot, we hired the only respectable house in the place, +left a native to make the necessary arrangements for our dinner, and +then started on a cruise to view the country. We shot at any thing that +came in our way, and by noon our game-bag contained a curious medley of +ducks, paroquets, swallows, and water rats. By this time the sun became +so overpowering that we returned to the house which had been hired for +our accommodation. Here we dined, and returned to Hong Kong well pleased +with our trip. The roads at Hong Kong, though not particularly good, +have been made at great expence. Large rocks have been cut through to +afford communication, and the quantity of rivulets running down from the +mountains, have rendered it necessary to build innumerable bridges. +There were but few good horses on the island; but I managed to procure a +tolerable one, and in the evening would ride out by "Happy Valley," and +return by dark, the only exercise which the heat of the climate would +permit, and which was necessary to restore me to health. Society is in a +queer state here, as may be imagined when I state, that the shipowner +won't associate with the small merchant, and the latter will not deign +to acknowledge a man who keeps a store. Under these circumstances, the +army and navy keep aloof, and associate with no class. There were very +few ladies at Hong Kong at this time, and of what class they were +composed of may be imagined, when I state that a shopkeeper's sister was +the belle of the place, and received all the homage of the marriageable +men of Hong Kong. Hospitality to strangers is as yet unknown, and a +letter of introduction is only good for one tiffin, or more rarely one +dinner. I made several excursions in the country, but did not find any +thing worth narrating, or describing with the pencil. + +[Illustration: TANKA BOAT WOMEN.] + +It is here worthy of remark, that there is every prospect of all the +enormous expense which has been bestowed upon this island being totally +thrown away, and that those who have speculated will lose all their +money; in fact, that in a few years Hong Kong will be totally deserted, +and all the money expended upon it will be lost. To explain this I must +mention a few facts, not probably known to my readers. + +When, many years ago, the trade with foreigners was first permitted by +the Chinese government, Canton was selected as the port from which it +should be carried on. The Chinese government had two reasons for making +this selection: their first was, their dislike and jealousy of +foreigners induced them to select a port at the very confines of the +empire where the communication with them should take place, so that by +no chance the foreigners should obtain any thing like a footing in or +knowledge of their country; the second reason was, that by so doing they +obtained, at the expence of the foreigners, a very considerable inland +revenue from the tea trade. Canton is situated at least 500 miles from +those provinces in which the tea is grown, and the transit to Canton is +over a very mountainous range, at the passes of which tolls are levied +by the government, which are now said to amount annually to seven +millions. The assertion, therefore, of the Chinese government that they +do not care about the trade is very false, for they have derived a great +revenue from it. + +The opening of the more northern ports, which was obtained by the war +with China, has already made a great difference, and every year will +make a greater. Shang-hai, one of the ports opened, and the farthest to +the northward, is situated on the confines of the great tea country, and +vessels going there to take in their cargoes avoid all the duties of +transit, and procure the tea in a much better condition. The merchants +of Canton, moreover, who traffic in tea, are all of them for the most +part people of the province of Shang-hai, who resort to Canton to look +after their interests, but now that the port of Shang-hai is opened, +their merchants are returning to their own country, the English +merchants are settling at Shang-hai, and the vessels are going there to +load with tea direct. Already a large portion of the traffic has left +Canton and gone to Shang-hai, and it is but natural to suppose, that in +a few years the tea trade will be carried on altogether from that port, +as the expence of transit over the mountains and the duties levied will +be avoided, as well as the advantage gained of having the tea in a much +better condition when shipped on board. How the Chinese government will +act when it finds that it loses the great revenue arising from the trade +being carried on at Canton remains to be seen, but it will, probably, +succumb to another war, if such is considered necessary. It will be a +curious subject of interest to watch the fall of Hong Kong, of Macao, +and also of Canton itself, with its turbulent population, which must, +when the trade is withdrawn, fall into insignificance. + +The great error of the last war was, our selection of such an unhealthy +and barren island as Hong Kong as our _pied-a-terre_ in China, when we +might have had Chusan, or, indeed, any other place which we might have +insisted upon. We thought that Chusan was unhealthy because we barracked +our soldiers in the swamps, and consequently lost many of the men, when, +as it is a most healthy and delightful climate, had the barracks been +built on the hills, we probably should not have lost a man. Even now it +is not too late. The Chinese dislike our propinquity to their coast at +Hong Kong, and the last expedition will have the effect of increasing +this dislike. I think, with very little difficulty, the Chinese +government would now exchange Chusan for Hong Kong, if it were only to +keep such unpleasant barbarians, as the English have proved to be, at a +more respectable distance. If we had possession of Chusan, the trade +would come to our ports. The Chinese junks would come to us loaded with +tea, and take our goods in return. The trade would then be really thrown +open, which at present it is not. + +[Illustration: MAN-OF-WAR JUNK.] + +Murders and robberies were of daily, or, rather, nightly occurrence at +Hong Kong, the offenders being Chinese, who are the most daring robbers +perhaps in the world. + +[Illustration: TRADING JUNKS.] + +I must now detail the events of a cruise of the Samarang during the time +that I was in the Iris, and I avail myself of the private journal of one +of my friends. + +May 9th, sailed from Hong Kong to Batan, to complete the survey of the +Bashee group. On the 20th we left Batan to run to Ibyat, about twenty +miles from the former island, and although a high table land, it is low +when compared with Batan. I never saw an island less inviting in +appearance than Ibyat. We landed at the foot of a precipice, nearly +perpendicular, and ascended to the summit by means of rough ladders, +placed upright against large masses of rock; on either side of which +were gaping chasms, the very sight of which were sufficient to unnerve +us. This plan was not only the best for landing on this strange island, +but, as the natives informed us, was almost the only one where a landing +could be effected without great danger. It was near sunset when we +landed; the boats returned to the ship, leaving us to partake of the +hospitality of the padres from Batan, who had taken a passage in the +ship, as they had some spiritual business to transact on this island. +About 8 P. M., we arrived at the village of San Raphael, where we slept +in a house set apart for the use of the padres. This village is situated +in the centre of the island, built in a valley and on eminences which +surround it. The most commanding position is occupied by the church and +mission house, both of which are much larger, although built of the same +materials, and on the same plan, as the houses of the natives. There was +but one room in the mission house, which was scantily furnished with +some heavy wooden chairs, and some cane settees for bed places; however, +thanks to the kindness of the padres, we contrived to make ourselves +very comfortable. There are four villages in the island, San Raphael, +Santa Maria, Santa Lucia, and Santa Rosa; each consisting of about forty +houses, containing about 300 people; so that the population may be +taken, at a rough guess, at about 1200. The natives profess the Roman +Catholic religion, and appear to be very sincere in their devotion. +Divine service is performed morning and evening, at which time the boys +and girls of the village walk to the church in two lines, chanting a +hymn to the Virgin Mary. Each line is headed by the youngest of either +sex, bearing a cross. The boys wore nothing but the middle cloth, and +the girls were almost as scantily clothed; the only garment being a +skirt or petticoat, not larger than a moderate sized +pocket-handkerchief. During two days our friends, the padres, were fully +occupied with the important ceremonies of marriage and baptism. Many of +the parties joined in matrimony were mere children. They all had, on +this important occasion, some addition to their general costume. The +bridegroom, for instance, wore a shirt; some of them had actually a pair +of trousers. The bride had an additional and large petticoat, and an +embroidered handkerchief. They were not at all bashful--there was no +blushing--no tears, and, on the contrary, marriage appeared to be +considered as an excellent joke, and the laughing and flirtation were +carried on to the church door. The padres appeared to be almost +worshipped by the poor natives, who, on their arrival and departure, +respectfully saluted their hands. But their great affection was shown in +a more satisfactory and substantial manner, by the continual supply of +goats, pigs, fowls, vegetables, and fruit, which were liberally supplied +during our stay. I forgot to say that the marriage certificates were of +a very primitive kind; they consisted of a laurel leaf, in which were +rudely inscribed the names of the bride and bridegroom. At length, +having finished our survey, we bid farewell to our hospitable +entertainers, and on the 27th made sail for St. Domingo. + +We remained two days at St. Domingo, and then weighed and steered to the +northward. On the 3d of June we landed on the island of Samazana, near +the south point of Formosa. The inhabitants of Samazana are Chinese, +although they pay no tribute to the emperor. This island was first +inhabited, about twenty years since, by a party of Chinese sailors, who +were thrown on shore in a tempest. They afterwards returned to Amoy, +where, having persuaded several families to join them, they returned to +Samazana, and colonised it. The fertility of this island has richly +repaid them for their labour. The village contains about 100 people, who +are located in about ten or fifteen houses. Paddy, sugar-cane, and yams +are grown in abundance, and ground nuts cover nearly one third of the +island. These Chinese settlers keep up a trade with Amoy, from whence +they obtain what they require, in exchange for the productions of their +island. We found these people very civil and obliging, but excessively +dirty in their persons and apparel. + +About seven o'clock in the evening, while we were dining on the beach, +an earthquake shook the island, the glasses jingled together, and all +our party were in involuntary see-saw motion, like the Chinese figures. +This lasted about ten seconds. Several of us, who had never before +experienced the sensation, were much relieved when the shock was over, +as it created a suffocating sensation. During the evening there were +several other shocks, but none of them equal to the first in violence. +We remained all night on the island, to ascertain the latitude by the +stars. + +On the following morning we returned on board, when we were informed +that the ship had struck on a reef on the preceding evening, at 7 P. M. +The lead was thrown overboard, but no soundings were obtained, proving, +beyond doubt, that the concussion had been communicated to the vessel. +She was about four miles off the land at the time, and many would not +then be convinced that it was an earthquake; although I believe it has +been satisfactorily proved that the shock has been felt by a vessel +which has been out of sight of any land. + +On the 6th of June sighted one of the Madjicosima islands. The master in +the second cutter left the ship, with a week's provisions, to survey the +island, while we made sail for our former anchorage at Pa-tchu-san, to +obtain water. + +On the 8th of June we arrived at Pa-tchu-san, where we were received by +our friends, the chiefs, who appeared delighted to see us again. We +learnt through our interpreter that a French frigate had left Loo-choo +for Corea two months before--twenty-seven of their countrymen, chiefly +missionaries, having been murdered by the Coreans. It would appear that +the French missionaries, exceeding their vocation, had wished to make +some alterations in the Corean form of government, but their attempts +not meeting the approbation of those in power, they fell a sacrifice to +their good intentions. + +On the 9th we sailed for Sabangyat to pick up the two cutters. We +arrived there the next day, and were joined by the master. We received +every attention from the hospitable and inoffensive natives, who +supplied us with pigs, fowls, and vegetables, refusing to accept any +thing in return. We returned to Pa-tchu-san to rate our chronometers, +and sailed on the same day. The next morning we landed on Hoa-pen, an +island, but the cloudy weather prevented us from obtaining the latitude. +We landed during the day, and remained on shore the whole night to +obtain our objects, and, I may add, were most cruelly bitten by the +mosquitoes as a reward for our zeal. + +When we were returning to the ship on the following morning, a large +albatross alighted on the water close to the boat. As we passed it, it +made several futile attempts to rise again on the wing. It is well known +that this bird cannot fly while under the influence of fear, and so it +appeared in this instance, for, while we were passing it, a shark +thrust its head out of the water and took the unfortunate bird down with +him. + +On the 16th we landed at Tea-qua-san, where we captured great numbers of +albatrosses, ferns, and boobies. They actually refused to move at our +approach. This island is very small and uninhabited, but it was evident +that people had landed on it lately, for in a cave we discovered several +grass beds, remains of game, and remnants of cooking. The weather +prevented us from making any observations, but it did not prevent us +from collecting several hundreds of eggs, which we took on board with +us. The next day we saw a large rock, marked doubtful on the charts. A +heavy squall, which forced us to run before it for several hours, +prevented us from ascertaining its position. + +June 19. We found ourselves close to the southern extremity of Loo-choo, +the land of which is low. About noon we anchored in the harbour of +Napa-kiang, and were boarded by several mandarins, one of whom the +captain recognised as the interpreter of the Blossom, whose interesting +cruise has been published by Captain Beechey. The natives of Loo-choo +are so similar to those of the Madjicosima group that it would be +useless describing their manners and customs, the more so as we have +already the works of Captain Hall and Captain Beechey, in which they are +described most accurately. A great many junks were anchored in the inner +harbour, their enormous masts towering far above the highest buildings. + +The burial ground is a large tract of land to the left of the town; the +tombs are large, and in shape resemble the last letter in the Greek +alphabet ([Greek: Omega]). Strange that it should be the last letter. +Most of them are painted white, and they have from the anchorage a very +picturesque appearance. + +It was the captain's intention to have sailed on the day after our +arrival, but the weather proving unfavourable for astronomical +observations, our departure was postponed for another day, when, having +obtained sights, some live stock, and vegetables, we sailed for Guilpat, +a large island off the southern extremity of Corea. Previous to our +sailing, a French missionary called on the captain. He had been left at +Loo-choo by the Alcimene frigate, with a view of introducing +Christianity into the island, but the chiefs did not appear to relish +his sojourn there, and were anxious to get rid of him. He offered to +accompany us to Corea and Japan; at the latter place he would have been +of great service, as he was acquainted with the Japanese language. + +June 24. Sighted the Goth island, a portion of the Japanese empire. The +next morning the wind had increased to a heavy gale, and we were +compelled to reduce our canvass to a close-reefed main topsail, +staysail, and trysail. We rounded Cape Goth within a quarter of a mile, +and lay to under the lee of the island, where the sea was comparatively +smooth. Towards the evening the wind subsided, and we again made sail. +Saw the island of Guilpat, and the next morning anchored off the +north-east side of it, in a channel between Guilpat and a small island. +We landed on the small island, where we were received by about sixty +natives, who did not appear well pleased at our intrusion, but knew that +resistance to us would be useless. + +In the course of the day several thousand natives had assembled on the +opposite shore. By the aid of good telescopes we could discern forts and +flags. The natives informed us that Guilpat had a standing army, well +supplied with matchlocks, swords, and bows and arrows. They added that +guns are not wanted to defend the island in case of need. This assertion +we afterwards found, making allowance for a little exaggeration, to be +quite correct. + +The island of Guilpat is subject to the kingdom of Corea, and is the +largest in that archipelago, being about thirty miles in length and +fifteen in breadth. It is composed of innumerable hills in every variety +of form, such as cones, saddles, and tables. Most of these hills have +forts built on their summits. From these, lights were displayed every +evening, and it was astonishing the rapidity with which these signals +were answered. I have seen the whole coast illuminated in less than five +minutes, each hill appearing like a little volcano, suddenly bursting +out. As soon as the boats had surveyed this part of the island, we +shifted the ship to where the survey was being carried on; and this we +continued to do during the whole time that we were employed in the +survey, the boats returning on board every night. Good anchorage is to +be obtained all round the island. Innumerable forts and batteries are +built along the coast; every rising ground being surmounted with one, +although the major portion of them were not supplied with guns. We found +as we coasted along that all the forts were manned, the people being +armed with matchlocks, spears, and arrows. On several occasions they +fired their matchlocks, and the salute was returned by the 6-pounders in +the barges, which never failed of putting them to flight. In the centre +of the island the land runs to an enormous height, and terminates in a +sharp peak, which, in consequence of its always having been enveloped +with clouds, we did not see till several days after our arrival. + +At last we arrived at the principal town, which is situated on the +western side of the island. The town was inclosed with thick walls, +higher than we had observed before as we coasted along. These walls form +a square, each side of which is about half a mile in length, and has +batteries, parapets, and embrasures. In some of the latter there were +guns, which were occasionally fired. The whole ground before the town, +for the distance of a mile and a half, was crowded with people; but if +they waited for our landing they were disappointed, as the captain would +not land. They gave us two bullocks, which were put into the barge, as +the ship was then ten or twelve miles off. The mandarins used every +argument to persuade the captain to come on shore and visit the chiefs +of the island; but, as we had but twenty men in the boats, he refused to +trust himself among eight or ten thousand whose intentions were any +thing but satisfactory. However, he promised that he would come on shore +on the following day, but that at present he was obliged to visit a +point of the bay to obtain observations before sunset. We now prepared +to move in the barge, but found ourselves encompassed by twelve or +fourteen large boats, fastened to each other by strong ropes. We desired +them to make a passage, but they either did not, or would not, +understand us. This looked very much like treachery, and decided +measures were become requisite: the nearest boats were boarded, and the +crews made to cut their ropes. Some of them appeared inclined to resist, +but a smart stroke of the cutlass put their courage to flight. This +affair took place within twenty yards of the beach, and in sight of +10,000 people on the shore. We now being clear, pulled for the point and +secured our station. A great crowd collected around us while we were +observing; the chiefs expressed a wish, in a peremptory sort of way, +that the officers should partake of some refreshment at a short distance +from the beach. This the captain, who suspected treachery, refused, and +as we were going near to our boats, some of the natives laid violent +hands upon our men, but having received from them a few specimens of our +method of boxing, they soon quitted their hold. The Chinese interpreter +was now missing; our men in consequence procured their arms, and +landing, a strict search was made for him. He was found some little +distance on land, having been enticed away by one of the chiefs, who +was plying him with sam-schoo. On his way to return they forcibly +detained him, and were in the act of conveying him away, when the +appearance of the armed party from the boat surprised them, and they +hastened to convey their own persons out of reach of our bayonets. It +was not, however, our intention, or our policy, to commence hostilities, +only to show them that we would not be trifled with. + +We returned from the point to the beach before the town, when the boat's +guns were loaded with round and grape, and pointed at the crowd +assembled, in case of any further treachery. The captain then landed +with the small armed party, all ready for resistance. + +Music was now heard in the distance, and soon afterwards one of the +principal chiefs arrived, walking beneath a silken canopy. He was +attended by two young lads and a band of spearmen, who prevented the mob +from approaching too close to his highness's person. The multitude +shouted, and bowed their heads to the ground as the chief passed them; +the latter took no notice of their acclamations, but advanced in a very +stately dignified manner towards the captain, apparently keeping time to +the music, which was played by a band of men, dressed in a very +fantastic manner, on cymbals and instruments resembling our clarionets. + +The negotiations were now opened: the captain expressed his surprise and +disgust at the treatment he had experienced at the point, where he had +been taking observations. The chief inquired of the captain, in reply, +why he did not shoot the offenders? and assured him that, if the next +time he was annoyed by the rabble he would shoot a few of them, it would +have a very salutary effect upon the remainder. In the course of +conversation, the captain informed the mandarin that England possessed +ships carrying 120 guns of larger caliber than those on board of the +vessel he commanded; and that altogether, including large and small, +the Queen of England had 800 vessels. This account was evidently +discredited, as it always was when such an assertion was made in those +seas, for looking round him and explaining the nature of the +communication to his followers, they all laughed. Asang, the +interpreter, then gave them a history of the Chinese war, on which he +dwelt upon our immense resources, the size and number of our vessels, +and the fire ships (steamers) which we had employed; but it was evident +that the Quelpartians did not believe one word of his assertions. Before +the conference was over, rice, cakes, and sam-schoo were handed round, +and the captain promised that he would visit the chief mandarin on the +following day. By this time, the ship had come to an anchor in the bay, +and we returned on board. + +The next morning we got the ship under weigh, and brought her nearer to +the town, so that her guns could be brought to bear in case of need; but +when within 100 yards of the shore, and in the act of going about, the +ship struck with great violence against a rock. Hawsers were laid out, +and with our usual good fortune, we again got into deep water, and in +half an hour anchored off the town in a favourable position for +cannonading it. We then landed our force, consisting of all the marines, +with the drummer and fiddler, besides a party of small-arm men from the +blue jackets, all armed with muskets, bayonets, and cutlasses. The +officers, in addition to their swords, carried pistols in their belts. A +feu-de-joie was now fired, for the double purpose of creating an awe +among the crowd, and ascertaining that all the muskets were in good +order; for the mandarin resided some miles from the beach, and in case +of attack we must have fought hard to regain our boats and the +protection of the ship's guns. All being ready, the drummer and fiddler +struck up a lively air, and we commenced our march towards the +mandarin's house, the officers being accommodated with horses. After +passing over a morass, the waters of which ran sluggishly through the +arches of a bridge, connecting the suburbs with the city, we ascended a +rocky eminence, from the summit of which we had a bird's eye view of the +city, and some portion of the interior. We observed that the ramparts of +the city were lined with people. Our train was nearly a mile in length, +although the natives were walking ten or twelve abreast. Immediately +after our party came the band of the natives, dressed in russet-coloured +cloth, with shawls of the same material; after them the mandarin, +followed by above 200 soldiers, a dense mob bringing up the rear, with +flags and banners displayed. + +On the inland side of us was an immense plain, bounded in the distance +by high mountains, whose tops were enveloped in clouds. This plain was +mostly cultivated; that portion of it which was barren had been +appropriated to burial grounds, several of which we passed through. At +the head of the graves were stone figures intending to represent human +beings, but Chantry had not been employed. At length, having walked +round two-thirds of the walls, we entered a defile, leading to one of +the gates of the city, but to our surprise, when we arrived at the gate, +we found that it was locked, and when the cause was demanded, we were +informed that the mandarin refused to allow the soldiers to enter, but +that the officers would be admitted alone. This communication greatly +irritated the captain, and our position caused us some uneasiness. We +were inclosed within two high walls in a narrow lane, our advance +prevented by the locked up gate, and our retreat must be through +thousands who had formed the cavalcade, and were now in our rear. Our +only passage was through this multitude, and I hardly need say that we +were convinced of the treachery of the people. However, there was no +time to be lost: the word was given, the marines formed a front line, +cocked their muskets, and then brought them to the charge bayonets; and +in this way, the crowd retreating before us, we forced our way back, +until we were again clear of the high walls which had flanked us; but +our position even then was not pleasant. We had to pass the fort and +several encampments before we could arrive at the beach, which was at +least four miles distant. However, we put a good face on the matter, and +forcibly detaining one of the mandarins upon the pretence that he must +show us the way back, with the threat, that upon the slightest +molestation on the part of his countrymen, we would blow his brains out, +we commenced our march back to the beach, our two musicians playing with +great energy, "Go to the devil and shake yourselves," which tune, struck +up upon their own suggestion, was the occasion of great laughter among +our party. At last we reached the beach without opposition, and the +mandarin, who was terribly alarmed, was released. + +When we arrived, the chiefs attempted to throw all the blame upon the +head mandarin, but the captain would no longer stand their humbug. He +replied to them, that if any of their principal men had visited the ship +they would have been treated with respect and kindness, and that the +number of their armed retainers would have made no difference in their +reception; that he considered them as faithless in all their +protestations of good-will, and from thenceforth he should place no +reliance on any thing that they said; that for the future he would act +as he thought proper without consulting them, and that he would shoot +any one who attempted to interfere with him. We then got into the boats +and returned on board, where we heard that the cutter's crew had been +compelled to kill or wound some of the natives, who had come down in a +body and attacked one of the men with fire-brands. The cutter was at +anchor a short distance from the shore; on the natives approaching they +seized their muskets, but did not fire until their shipmate was in +danger of his life. Two of the natives had fallen and had been carried +off by their comrades. + +[Illustration: QUELPARTIANS. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The Quelpartians cultivate paddy (from which they distil their +sam-schoo), sweet potatoes, and radishes, which, with shell-fish, form +the principal articles of food with the lower classes. Pigs, bullocks, +and fowls appeared to be plentiful, although we obtained but few. All +their towns are enclosed with a stone wall; the houses are also built of +stone, and mostly tiled with a species of red slate; but we had few +opportunities of inspecting them, as the natives kept so strict a watch +upon us, and so outnumbered us. These Coreans presented a strong +contrast to the Loo Chooans, who are so polite in their manner and kind +in their demeanour. These Quelpartians, on the contrary, are very +unprepossessing in their appearance, rude and boisterous in their +manner, and of very gross habits. They insisted upon feeling and +inspecting every article of our clothing, even baring our breasts to +ascertain their colour, and in many other respects proving themselves +very annoying. This was submitted to at first, with the hope of securing +their good-will, but afterwards very decided measures were taken to +repulse these dirty wretches, whose clothes smelt most offensively. They +have the high cheek bone and elongated eye of the Tartar, or northern +Chinese, from whom I am inclined to think they are descended. The crown +of the head is closely shaved, leaving a circle of long hair, which is +tied in a knot on the top of the skull (similar to the people of Loo +Choo), but without any ornament. Round the forehead is fastened a +bandanna, about four inches in width, resembling fine net-work in +texture, but it is made with horsehair. This is used to keep the hair in +its proper position. But the most singular part of their costume is the +hat, which is made of the same materials as the fillets: the brim is +about four feet in width, and this gives to the wearer a very grotesque +appearance. The crown in shape resembles a sugar-loaf with the top cut +off, and is very small in diameter. It admits the top-knot of hair, and +nothing more. + +[Illustration: MANDARIN OF QUELPART. + +(COREA.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +The lower orders generally wear a felt hat, but of the same dimensions +and shape. The hats of the mandarins are secured on their heads by +strings of amber beads and large ivory balls, and then passed under the +chin. Rank is denoted by the peacock's feather in the hat. The army are +distinguished by a tuft of red horsehair stuck in the crown. The +respectable part of the inhabitants have several garments; the outer +ones are of various colours, but the cut of them extends to all ranks. I +can liken it to nothing but a long pinbefore, slit up in front, behind, +and at the two sides. Under this they wear other garments, the texture +and quality of which, as well as quantity, depend upon the wealth of the +wearer. The sleeves of their dresses are wide and long. In spite of +their thick mustachios and long flowing beards, they have the appearance +of a very effeminate people. + +One evening we saw a large turtle asleep as we pulled along the coast. A +Sandwich Islander, belonging to the gig's crew, went in the water and +turned him, holding him in this position till a rope was made fast to +him, and he was secured. At night we landed on a small island, and we +cooked our prize for our supper. I mention it as a proof of the man's +dexterity. + +Completed our survey of the Quelpart, and stood to the N. E. The next +morning we found ourselves close to a labyrinth of islands, not laid +down on any chart. The captain named the group after the ship; and, +having in three days completed the survey of them, we stood further to +the northward and eastward. It would be tedious to detail our surveying +operations. We saw the main land of Corea, but did not go on shore; and +our provisions getting low, we bore all for the southward. After calling +again at Quelpart, where we remained a few days, we made sail for +Nangasaki, a seaport town in the empire of Japan. + +We were some distance in the offing in sight of the town of Nangasaki, +when several boats, gaily decorated with flags of various shades and +colours, came out to meet the ship and accompany us to the anchorage. +One of them brought a letter, written in mingled Dutch and French, +inquiring from whence and why we came. The bearer, who was a great man +in authority, desired the captain to anchor immediately; but this the +captain refused, telling him that he should anchor his ship when and +where he pleased. We afterwards discovered that these were all +government boats, and that they were always placed as a guard upon any +ship which visited Nangasaki. + +[Illustration: JAPANESE BOAT.] + +The crews were all dressed alike, in chequered blue and white cotton +dresses; the boats are propelled with sculls used as oars, the men +keeping time to a monotonous song. Forts, or rather the ghosts of +forts, appeared as if raised by magic; they were easily distinguished +to be formed out of immense screens of coloured cotton, and they were +surrounded by flags and pennons. Although not effective, their effect +was good at a distance. + +[Illustration: JAPANESE. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +In the evening, a large assembly of the principal men visited the ship; +they wore very loose jackets and trowsers. The jackets reached no lower +than the hips, where they were confined by a silk or silver girdle, +containing two swords, one somewhat larger than the other. The handles +and sheaths of their swords were beautifully inlaid with copper, and +japanned in a very peculiar manner. They were very curious to know the +name and use of every article which excited their attention, and we were +much surprised at their display of so much theoretical knowledge. They +particularly admired the touch-hole of our guns, which are fired with +the detonating tube. The properties of the elevating screws were +minutely examined; and we were inclined to believe that many of our +visitors were artificers, sent on board to examine and make notes of +every thing new. + +The Samarang was the first British man-of-war which had visited Nagasaki +since the Phaeton, in 1808. The day after our arrival the chiefs sent +off a present of pigs, fowls, and vegetables, but would receive nothing +in return. + +I accompanied the master to a small island, to make observations. +Several of the great men desired us to return to the ship, but we +refused. They appeared greatly annoyed, and drew their hands across +their throats, intimating that their heads would be forfeited for their +breach of duty. However, seeing that we were determined to remain, they +made a virtue of necessity, and consoled themselves by examining our +instruments. A laughable occurrence took place while we were on shore. +The cutter was at anchor about ten yards from the beach. Two of the crew +having an argument, one of them drew his bayonet, and made a lunge at +the other in jest. Observing the natives looking on with amazement, and +fancying that the men were engaged in deadly fray, it drew our attention +to the scene. They no doubt came to the conclusion that we must be a +desperate set of fellows, and killed one another upon the slightest +provocation. At all events, this little incident appeared to have a very +good effect, as the natives, who had continually been interfering with +our observations, now left us, not wishing to be so near to people who +were so prone to mischief. + +During the whole night we were surrounded by a squadron of boats, which, +with lanterns lighted, and drums beating, continually moved round the +ship, to intercept any boat leaving it. The captain, finding that the +suspicious character of the Japanese would prevent any thing like +correct surveying, which was the principal object of his visit to +Nagasaki, determined upon leaving this inhospitable shore of Japan as +soon as possible. + +On Sunday the 6th, we weighed, and although the weather was +unfavourable, contrived to work out of soundings until 3 P. M., when we +made sail for Loo-Choo. At daylight we found ourselves abreast of a +burning volcano. Dense clouds of smoke were issuing from a peaked +island, about three miles distant. We soon afterwards landed upon an +adjacent island, which, to our surprise, also began to smoke. + +The day was sultry, and without a breath of air, so that in a short +time, the atmosphere we were in became overpowering; at last a fresh +breeze sprang up, and the disagreeable sensation wore off. The whole of +the islands between Loo-Choo and Japan appear to be volcanic, and at +certain seasons of the year they break out in a similar manner to those +which we saw. At noon the smoke from the large volcano became lurid; but +whether this was the breaking out into flame, or from the rays of the +sun pouring down upon the smoke, it was impossible to say, as we were +then several miles off. During the whole of the following night we were +becalmed, and during that time impelled, by a strong current, towards +the volcanic island. Strange noises were heard, and large columns of +smoke ascended from the crater, which, from there not being a breath of +air, soon enveloped it from our sight. On the following day we again +landed upon an island, some little distance to the southward of the +volcano, which now vomited flames, ashes, and smoke, during the whole +day. The master landed on another of these volcanic islands, but the +showers of ashes and suffocating atmosphere soon drove him away. + +The captain had finished his observations on the first island where we +landed, and we prepared to return on board. Since the morning the swell +had got up considerably, causing the surf to break heavily on the rocks. +However, the instruments were safely embarked in the boat; but while the +captain was waiting for an opportunity to get in, a surf drove the boat +on a shelving rock, and suddenly receding, her stern was dropped so low, +while her bow remained fast, that she capsized. Although the officer and +men in the boat had to swim for their lives, and were much bruised by +being dashed against the rocks by the succeeding surf, fortunately no +lives were lost; but all the instruments, to the value of about 150l., +went to the bottom, and, no doubt, have since the accident very much +puzzled the sharks as to their use, as they often had done the natives +of those seas. A signal was hoisted on the summit of the island for the +ship to send boats to assist, and, on their arrival, the gig was baled +out, and by sunset we were again on board. + +August 18th.--Exchanged numbers with her Majesty's ship Royalist, which +was anchored in Napa Kiang harbour (Loo-Choo). At 3 P. M., we anchored +alongside of her, impatiently expecting letters by her, and we were not +a little depressed at being disappointed. Still we had one comfort, +which was that, instead of having brought us, as we expected, three +months' provisions, to enable us to continue our survey, she had only +fourteen days' provisions for us, which was not more than sufficient to +carry us back to Hong Kong. Many and various were the surmises that this +recall and alteration of our planned employment gave us; the most +prevailing one was that our orders from England were at Hong Kong. +Others supposed that the ship would be hove down, and subsequently +condemned; but the rejoicing was universal at the idea that there would +be some speedy end to our hardships and vexations. + +A day or two after our arrival the captain and senior officers landed, +to partake of a dinner given by one of the principal mandarins. They +were well plied with soup, fish, fowls, and sam-schoo, being attended on +by minor mandarins. After dinner they were escorted through the town, +accompanied by a large concourse of natives, who were kept by the police +at a respectful distance. One of the multitude forced his way to join +the captain's party, but was forcibly ejected, and preparations made to +bamboo him, when, to the captain's surprise, he discovered that the +unfortunate culprit was our greatest friend and ally during our visit to +the Madjicosima islands. He had been christened Beaufort by our +officers, in consequence of his accurate knowledge of all the shoals, +bays, deeps, &c. A word from the captain released him, and to the +astonishment of the mob, the captain and officers shook him cordially by +the hand, and made him walk in their company during the remainder of the +day. We did not find out why Beaufort left Pa-tchsu-san, where he +appeared to be one of the principal chiefs; while at Loo-Choo he +appeared to have no rank whatever. August 21st.--Sailed for Loo-Choo, +the Royalist in Company. After looking in at Pa-tschu-san, we made all +sail for Hong Kong; but arriving off the island of Botel Tobago, we were +annoyed with light airs and calms, varied with squalls and heavy rain. +For several days we were at the mercy of the current, until, at length, +we sighted Batan, and steered towards it. The wind still continuing +light, the captain went in the gig, which was my boat, on board of the +Royalist; and we soon left the Samarang far behind. We landed about +three o'clock, and were received by the padre, the governor and his lady +being at San Carlos. The commander of the Royalist and two of his +officers landed with us, and were much pleased with the hospitality of +the old priest. In the course of the evening the governor and his lady +returned from San Carlos; we adjourned to his house, where we passed +the evening. Several dances were performed by the native women; but we +did not admire them--they shuffled with their feet, and threw their +bodies into anything but graceful postures. At midnight we sat down to +an excellent supper, and then returned on board of the Royalist. The +following morning the ship was about three miles from the anchorage. +Bidding adieu to our hosts, we pulled on board, and made sail for Hong +Kong. + +September 8th.--It being calm, the ship's company were permitted to +bathe. In a minute all those who could swim were in the water, playing +about in every direction round the ship, and enjoying the luxury. While +this continued, the man at the mast-head reported a shark close at +hand. The word to come in quickly was given by the first lieutenant and +all the officers. It required no second call--every one knew why, and +swam to the ropes, which were thrown out in every direction. It was +touch and go, as the saying is--one of the marines, who was last, was +actually touched by the shark, who made at him; but before he could +turn to bite, the fellow had jerked himself up out of his reach. It was +very fortunate that the man at the mast-head kept so good a look-out, +for generally they are more occupied with the gambols of the bathers +than looking out for sharks. As it was, many of the swimmers were so +unnerved that it was with difficulty they could get out of the danger. +After the men were on board again, the great object was to have revenge +upon the animal who had thus put an end to the enjoyment. The +shark-hook was baited with a piece of bull's hide, and the animal, who +was still working up and down alongside the ship, hoping that he would +still pick up a marine I presume, took the bait greedily, and was +hauled on board. The axe was immediately at work at his tail, which was +dismembered, and a score of knives plunged into his body, ripping him +up in all directions. His eyes were picked out with fish-hooks and +knives, and every indignity offered to him. He was then cut to pieces, +and the quivering flesh thrown into the frying-pans, and eaten with a +savage pleasure which we can imagine only to be felt by cannibals when +devouring the flesh of their enemies. Certainly, if the cannibal +nations have the same feeling towards their enemies which sailors have +against sharks, I do not wonder at their adhering to this custom, for +there was a savage delight in the eyes of every seaman in the ship as +they assisted to cut to pieces and then devour the brute who would have +devoured them. It was the madness of retaliation--an eye for an eye, +and a tooth for a tooth. + +September 14th.--Arrived at Hong Kong, where we found the Castor, Vixen, +and Espiegle. The next day the Agincourt, Daedalus, Vestal, and +Wolverine, arrived from Borneo, having been engaged with the pirates of +Maludu Bay. The squadron had suffered a loss of one officer and eighteen +men killed, and about double the number wounded. This heavy loss was +occasioned by their having to cut through a large boom which the pirates +had thrown across the creek within half pistol shot of their forts. But +the official reports of Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane have already been +published, and I need not, therefore, enter into further particulars. +One incident is, perhaps, worthy of notice, as it shows the respect +invariably paid by the British officers and seamen to a brave enemy, +although a pirate. The colours from the pirates' fort had been twice +shot away, when, to the surprise of the boat squadron, a native was seen +to ascend, without regard to our fire, and nail the colours to the +flagstaff. Instead of taking aim at him, he was enthusiastically cheered +by the seamen; and, as if with one consent, the muskets were all +dropped, and the firing discontinued until he had again got down under +cover, and was safe. The boom being at length severed, the fort in a few +minutes was in our possession. Our late first lieutenant, Mr. Heard, who +had left our ship, in consequence of the treatment he received from the +captain, was wounded in this attack. Mr. Wade was the first lieutenant +who sailed from England in the Samarang, and who also left us, not being +able to put up with the treatment he received. It is singular that poor +Mr. Wade should be killed so soon after he left the ship, and that his +successor, Mr. Heard, as soon as he also left us, should have been +wounded. But these were not the only officers who had quitted the ship: +Lieutenant Inglefield, who joined the ship as assistant-surveyor, was, +like most of the other officers, soon under an arrest; and after having +had a report spread against him that he was mad, he determined to leave +the ship, and obtained his Admiralty discharge. The second master, +appointed by the Admiralty as one of the assistant-surveyors, also left +the ship, but was compelled to join again. + +A court-martial was now held on board of the Castor, to inquire into the +conduct of Lieutenant Heard (our late first lieutenant), during the time +that he served under Sir Edward Belcher. The court-martial had been +demanded by Lieutenant Heard, in consequence of Sir Edward Belcher +having written a private letter to Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane, accusing +Mr. Heard of conduct unbecoming an officer and a gentleman. The whole of +the officers of the Samarang were subpoenaed, and there is no doubt +what the result of the court-martial would have been; but the court was +broken up on the plea that the charges were not _sufficiently specific_, +as neither date nor circumstances were specified. Before the court broke +up, however, they did so far justice to Lieutenant Heard, as to return +his sword, and state that there was not the slightest stain upon his +character, and that he was honourably acquitted. The reader may perhaps +ask, why the court was dissolved? It was to save the honour of the +cloth, that the court, composed of captains, came to that decision. Had +the court-martial proceeded, what would it have proved?--that a superior +officer had been guilty of slander, and had attempted by this means to +ruin a most excellent officer. The court declared that the charges were +not sufficiently specific. Surely, they were plain enough. Lieutenant +Heard was charged with conduct unbecoming an officer and a gentleman--a +charge sufficient to dismiss him the service, if it could have been +proved. But let us reverse this case: suppose that Lieutenant Heard had +thus slandered Sir Edward Belcher. Would the court of captains then have +discovered that the charges were not sufficiently specific? Most +certainly not. The trial would have proceeded, and the lieutenant, for +making such false charges in a private letter, would have been dismissed +with ignominy from the service. + +November 1st.--Sailed from Hong Kong, after a detention of some days, in +consequence of a row between Admiral Sir Thomas Cochrane and our gallant +captain; the admiral, as we understood, refusing to allow the Samarang +to leave the port until Sir Edward Belcher had apologised for his +insubordination towards him. After a detention of a few days, the +apology was forced from Sir Edward Belcher, and we were permitted to get +under weigh. Of course, I cannot exactly vouch for the correctness of +this statement, but such was the _on dit_ of the day. On the second we +experienced a heavy gale, and the Royalist, who was with us as a tender, +parted company. After a weary beat of nineteen days, we arrived at +Batan, the capital of the Bashee islands; but I have already described +this place. We remained here eight days, anxiously expecting the +Royalist, but she did not make her appearance, and we concluded that she +must have received some injury in the gale, and had borne up for +Manilla. We sailed for that place, and arrived there on the 2d of +December. Our conjectures relative to the Royalist were correct: she was +here at anchor, having crippled her foremast in the gale, so as to +render it necessary for her to bear up for this port. + +[Illustration: SALT SMUGGLERS.] + +We had always enjoyed ourselves at this place. During our repeated +visits we had made many acquaintances and friends, and it was with no +small pleasure that we found that we were to remain here till the first +day of the new year. + +It is the custom at Manilla for the inhabitants to throw most of their +houses open on that day: any one may enter, and be sure of a hearty +welcome from the hospitable Spaniards. We anticipated great +pleasure,-and we did nothing but talk about it, as our last Christmas +Day had been a most dreary one, and we were delighted at the idea of +passing this one among hospitable and civilised people. The reader may +therefore imagine our disgust and vexation when, on the 23d, without our +having the least notice of his intention, the captain gave orders for +the anchor to be weighed, and ran the ship down to Caviti, a town about +seven miles distant. Caviti was deserted; all the inhabitants had gone +to Manilla to enjoy the holidays; not a soul remained to welcome us; but +if they had, it would have been of no good to us, as, on Christmas +morning, about two o'clock, we were almost all of us sent on shore to +take a set of magnetic observations, which were not completed until the +same hour on the following day. At the same time, to make "assurance +doubly sure" that we should have no pleasure on that day, leave was +stopped to all those remaining on board of the ship. I will not enter +further into this affair. All I shall say is, that Christmas Day, the +day of rejoicing, the day of good-will, was turned into one in which the +worst passions were roused, and in which "curses not loud but deep" were +levelled at the head of the man who, "dressed in a little brief +authority," took this opportunity of exercising the power entrusted to +him. After completing the observations, we moved further down the Bay, +and surveyed the shoals of St. Nicholas; after which we returned to +Manilla, where all gaiety had ceased. + +Caviti was once a place of great importance, having been the capital of +Luzon, from whence the galleons conveyed the treasure to Spain. The +arsenal still remains, but in a very dilapidated state: we found the +artificers busily employed completing some gun-boats and small +schooners, which were intended to accompany the Esperanza, Spanish +frigate, in an expedition to an island off Borneo, where the Esperanza +had latterly sustained a defeat from the pirates who inhabited the +island. + +At Caviti lie the remains of an old Spanish galleon, one of the few +which had the good fortune to escape Commodore Anson. The whole of one +side of the vessel is gone, and she is now fast falling to pieces, but +the Spaniards look upon her with great reverence. She is a relic of +their former grandeur; and I was informed by a Spanish gentleman that +she never would be broken up. I looked upon her, if not with reverence, +at least with sympathy; and as I made a sketch of her my thoughts +naturally turned to the rise and fall of empires, and I communed with +myself as to what would be the date in which England would be in the +same position as modern Spain, and fall back upon her former glories by +way of consolation for her actual decay. + +[Illustration: SPANISH GALLEON.] + +On our arrival at Manilla, whether it was that the captain thought that +we might too readily console ourselves for our Christmas disappointment, +or that he had heard (which I doubt not was the case) the expressions of +disgust which had been so universal, we found that all leave was +stopped. A few of us, not relishing this confinement without just cause, +made our appearance on shore in plain clothes; for we had become +reckless. We could but be turned out of the ship and out of the service: +we longed for the first most especially, and were not alarmed at the +prospect of the second. But although the captain was very willing to +oblige us with the latter as soon as he had done with us, upon the +paying off of the ship, he was not at all inclined to enter into our +views as to the former; for he knew that he never would get another +officer to join him. He therefore took all the work he could out of us +for the present, bottling up his indignation for a future opportunity. + +We visited the cigar manufactory. About three thousand women are daily +employed in making and packing up the cigars. One party selects, cleans, +and moistens the leaf; a second cuts; a third rolls; another packs them; +and thus they are passed through a variety of hands before they are +completed. The best cheroots made here are sent to the royal family, and +are called Finas. No. 3. are the next best: of these there are two +kinds--one for consumption, another for exportation. The cheroots sold +in England under the name of Government Manillas are of inferior +quality. In consequence of the failure in the preceding tobacco crop, +cheroots were very scarce during the time we were at Manilla. + +There is a fine lace sold at Manilla, called Pina-work. It is made by +the women of an island bearing that name, which is close to Luzon. +Although not so fine as some of the European manufactures, it fetches +very high prices in this country. There is not sufficient made for +exportation. + +The night on which we went on shore contrary to orders proved to be a +festival, and the city was illuminated. There is a variety in +illuminations all over the world, as those who have been to various +countries well know. The lower classes of Manilla construct animals of +all sorts, ships, &c. out of coloured paper--very good imitations of the +reality--and these they illuminate by putting candles within them. We +had amused ourselves with looking at the variety of objects exhibited +by the various whims of the illuminating parties, when, on passing +through a street, we observed a large illuminated pig--such a beauty! He +was standing at the door of a shop, and the owner was quite proud of our +unqualified admiration. We examined him very carefully, and at last we +unfortunately discovered that he was fixed on a board with four wheels. +Wheels naturally reminded us that they were vehicles of locomotion; the +pig could move--that was certain--and we decided that, if possible, pig +must go on board of the Samarang. This was agreed to, _nem. con._, by +all parties, with the exception of the owner, who was not summoned to +the consultation, which, I grant, was an omission. A ball of twine, some +fifty fathoms long, was purchased, and stretched along the street, so as +to give us a good start in case of a rescue. We manned it with all hands +except one, who was appointed to make it fast to the pig, which he +effected with great dexterity, and without being perceived. As soon as +he rejoined us, off we set, followed by pig, who galloped and capered +down the streets in capital style, preserving his equilibrium in a most +astonishing manner. + +But the owner of the pig soon discovered his loss, and gave the signal +for the chase. As we passed the gates, the soldiers joined in the +pursuit, and a large mob followed; but pig beat them all, and arrived +safely at the hotel where we resided. Of course, the owner soon came in +to claim his property; but he was so nobly remunerated for his animal, +which became ours by purchase, that he went away jingling the money, and +agreeing with us that it was an excellent joke. We placed our pig in the +centre of the table, and passed our last night at Manilla in a most +agreeable manner. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF LUZON. + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS] + +We then sailed again for Caviti, which was now again inhabited. The +society is confined to the families of the civil and military officers +who are stationed there. Some of the villages in the vicinity of Caviti +are very picturesque: the bamboos planted on each side of the road meet +over head, and form shady lanes. The women at these villages were +handsomer than any I had seen at Luzon, and were dressed very +tastefully. A petticoat, reaching from the hips to between the knees and +ankles, a not too jealous boddice of light muslin, their long hair +flowing down their backs, and a neat straw hat, composed as graceful a +costume as I have ever witnessed. See two of these girls, both riding +one pony, taking eggs to Caviti, as they pass through the shady lanes, +and you cannot desire a more agreeable picture. + +[Illustration: WATER CARRIERS--MANILLA.] + +January 3rd.--From this day till the 20th of February we were surveying +various portions of the Phillippine group; but as there is nothing to +interest the reader, I shall pass over a dry catalogue of mostly +uninhabited islands. One of the islands was covered with cocoa-nut +trees. We found on it some Malays, who had come there on an annual +visit, and were loading their boats with the nuts. They were the rudest +of the Malay tribe we had yet seen. Every article in our possession +excited their cupidity, and they expressed their wonder and admiration +by clacking their tongues against the roofs of their mouths, and +emitting a very strange sound. A needle was valued by them at ten +cocoa-nuts, a button at five. For the value of a few shillings we filled +the ship with those highly esteemed fruit. On the 21st of February we +proceeded to Samboangan, a Spanish penal settlement at the south +extremity of Mindanao. The town, which is insignificant, is built on a +plain. Most of the houses are constructed of leaves and bamboo, +supported by stakes. The governor, however, and some of the most +respectable of the inhabitants, occupy neat little white-washed +cottages. There is a fine fort, in good condition, and mounting several +guns, which is garrisoned by about 400 Manilla troops. + +The town is surrounded nearly by groves of cocoa-nut trees and bananas, +and the roads cut through them form pleasant shady walks. The plain on +which the town is built is well cultivated, and watered by a fine river. +It is bounded by a range of mountains, which separate the Spanish +possessions from the country inhabited by the warlike natives of the +interior. The people appear well-conditioned and industrious, and are +remarkably neat in their dress and persons. There are several gun boats +stationed here, which are employed to scour the coast of the pirates, +who are very numerous and formidable. + +Horses can be obtained here in any quantity, but saddles and bridles are +scarce. Unfortunately, there is nothing so civilised here as an hotel, +so few vessels visiting the port. The little commerce that exists is +carried on by small schooners which run between this island and Manilla. + +[Illustration: VIEW IN SAMBOANGAN. + +(MINDANAO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS] + +I have mentioned that this is the penal settlement of the Spanish +colonies. The prisoners are confined within the fort, and there is none +of that awe of restraint and doubtful position which you find in a place +where half the population consists of liberated convicts. It is a +flourishing and happy little colony. Many officers of an inferior grade +reside here, holding appointments either in the fort, gaol, or the gun +boats. These people and their wives are Mestichas (or half-breed), and +it is among them and their families that some of the prettiest women in +the Asiatic archipelago may be found. + +Our first object after we were on shore was to procure horses, that we +might have a view of the country, as far as prudence would admit. We +were surprised at starting to find such fine roads, lined with gardens +and cottages, embowered in groves of cocoa-nut, bananas, and bamboos. +Where the road was not shaded, arches of wood were raised to protect +passengers from the heat of the sun. The whole country was alive with +natives, dressed in every variety of colour, and sledges drawn by water +buffaloes, carrying fruit, vegetables, and Indian corn. We put our +horses to a swift canter, and passed through many villages, all in +appearance as populous, as thriving, and as happy as Samboangan. At last +we arrived at an open plain, covered with cattle, and bounded by the +mountains in the distance. We remained some time admiring and sketching; +the inhabitants showed us every kindness, and were more courteous in +their demeanour than might be expected from their isolation from the +rest of the world. + +On our return, we stopped at a little shop by the road side, close to +the town. It contained fruit, grain, and tobacco; but ascertaining that +coffee and chocolate could be had here, we ordered some of the latter, +which proved to be excellent, and moderate in price. This little shop, +for want of an hotel, became our principal rendezvous during our stay +here. + +About nightfall, as we were strolling through the town, we were +attracted by the sounds of music in an adjoining street. We altered our +course accordingly, and on arrival at a large thatched house, perceived +through the open windows that it was filled with musicians and dancers. +We were immediately observed, and the owner of the house, in the most +courteous manner, and in tolerable English, requested us to enter, which +request we immediately complied with. We imagined that it was a ball, +perhaps a wedding; but what was our surprise on entering to see a table +in the middle of the room, on which was placed a dead child! It was +neatly dressed, and ornamented with flowers, looking more like a wax +doll than a corpse. The ball, we were informed, was given in honour of +its funeral. The dancing had not yet commenced, so we were in excellent +time. The master of the house was extremely polite, and requested that +we would consider ourselves at home. We took his advice, and immediately +separated, and paid our addresses to the ladies which most interested us +by their appearance. A great many of them were exceedingly pretty, and +they were dressed enchantingly. Their hair was drawn back, and collected +in a knot behind, their bosoms covered by a light muslin jacket with +short sleeves. A petticoat of many colours was sufficiently short to +disclose their naked feet, on which was a slipper of velvet, embroidered +with gold or silver lace. Two or three great gold ornaments completed +their costume. Add to this their sparkling black eyes, regular features, +and an air of naivete--inseparable from Spanish girls, and you have some +idea of the witchery of the belles of Samboangan. + +We were very soon on excellent terms, and the table with the dead child +being removed to a corner, the father and mother of the deceased opened +the ball with a slow waltz. This being concluded, we selected our +partners, and a livelier air being struck up, off we all went at a +splendid pace. The women waltzed well. The music was excellent. In the +first round all the ladies lost their slippers, which were without +heels; and in the second the pace became fearful, and the old house +shook under the active bounds and springs of some twenty or thirty +couples. + +Spanish quadrilles succeeded the waltz, and then we had the country +dance. This latter is complicated, but very pretty, and, with the +assistance of our partners, in a short time we were quite _au fait_ to +its mysteries. + +The music, which consisted of violins and guitars, bore up +indefatigably. About twelve o'clock we ceased dancing, and preparations +were made for supper. This was laid on the floor, clean grass mats +serving as table cloths. The contents of the dishes were of the most +novel description, and rice was the only article which I could recognise +as unmixed. The repast spread, the host requested us to place ourselves. +I followed my pretty partner's example, and came to an anchor on the +floor alongside of her. I was most assiduous in helping her to whatever +she pointed out; and, as nearly as I can recollect, the plate contained +a curious medley of rice, prawns, fowls' legs, apples, besides other +articles unknown, at least to me. I had observed a total want of knives, +forks, and spoons, but this was explained when I saw that all ate with +their fingers. Seeing no objection to this primitive plan, I was about +getting a plate for myself, when I was informed by my partner, in the +most insinuating way, that I was to consider her plate as my own. I +fully appreciated the compliment, and at once commenced, assisting her +to demolish the pile that I had collected, as I thought, for her use +alone. On looking round I found that we were not singular, and that +every couple were, like us, dipping into one dish. Never was there a +more merry and delightful supper. As soon as it was over, which was not +very soon, for I could have gone on eating a long while for the very +pleasure of meeting the pretty little fingers in the plate, we rose, the +mats and dishes were cleared away, and we resumed the dancing, and it +was at a late hour that we made our _buenas nochas_ to the fair girls of +Samboangan. + +We remained in this delightful little place for two days. Many of us +were inclined to remain there for life, if we could have escaped. We +made several excursions into the interior, and the more we saw the more +we were convinced that no place was so pretty as Samboangan. + +March 3d.--Anchored in a port at Baselan, where the Spaniards had very +lately founded a colony. We found them very busy felling trees, clearing +backwood, and completing the stockade or fort. The natives of Baselan +are a courageous race, and were continually attacking the Spaniards, +occasionally with success. Two gun boats were lying off the town, but +the Spanish force is not sufficient to meet the attacks of the natives, +who continually surprise their outposts and decapitate their prisoners. +On our arrival a discharge of guns and fire-arms was kept up during the +whole night, fully proving the trouble which the Spaniards would have in +establishing and retaining their settlement here. It was a few miles +from this that the French were beaten off by the Malays or pirates, for +the terms are at Baselan synonymous. + +March 5th.--Having completed the survey of this port, we made sail for +Balam-bangan. On our route we stopped at Cagayan Sooloo, where we fell +in with two piratical prahus. For reasons, not explained, these vessels +were not interfered with, although there was not the least doubt of +their occupation. + +March 9.--The ship struck several times while threading her way through +a line of dangerous shoals to the eastward of Bangay; and on the same +evening we arrived at Balam-bangan. + +The Royalist had been despatched about a month before to Sincapore, to +obtain provisions to enable us to survey the coast of Borneo. +Balam-bangan was the rendezvous appointed, and we expected to have found +her anchored there; but in this we were disappointed. The survey of +Balam-bangan was now commenced, and during our survey we discovered the +remains of the old English settlement. It may be as well here to +concisely narrate the history of its rise and fall. About the year 1766, +four ships, filled with troops and every thing requisite for the +formation of a colony, arrived at Balam-bangan, which was formally taken +possession of in the name of his Britannic Majesty. But unexpected +difficulties arose one after the other. The natives of Bangay, about +three miles distant, were hostile, and made repeated attacks upon them. +The soil was discovered not to be of that fertile nature which had been +represented; and unfortunately two of the ships were thrown on shore in +a gale, and every soul on board perished. These several disasters damped +their energies, and created a feeling of distrust among the settlers, +but still the original intention was not abandoned. The forts were +completed, a few houses rose, and as their comfort and security +increased, so did their hopes arise, and they worked with renewed +vigour. But their prosperous state excited the jealousy of the people of +Sooloo, which island is the emporium of the commerce between Borneo and +the other islands. The ruling powers of Sooloo considered that this +commerce must fall off if the English established themselves on an +island so well adapted for it in every respect as Balam-bangan, and they +resolved to attack the colony in its infant state. Perhaps they had +another reason, which was that they anticipated a rich booty, if +successful, and no doubt they were not disappointed. The attack was made +with an overwhelming force, and the English, although they bore +themselves bravely, could not resist it. Most of the colonists were +butchered, some few gained the ships in the harbour and sailed away to +the port from which the expedition was fitted out. Since that time no +further attempt to colonise this island has been made, nor, indeed, is +it likely that there will be, as Labuan is much more advantageously +situated in every respect. + +The Royalist at last arrived: she had but few letters, but, valuable and +dear to us as letters always were, she brought intelligence that made +every heart, except one, beat with delight. Was it possible? Yes, it was +true--true! We were _ordered home_. Oh, the delight, the frantic joy, +which was diffused through the whole ship. To have witnessed the scene +we should have been considered as mad. Every one embracing one another, +shaking hands, animosities reconciled at once, all heart-burnings +forgotten: we could have hugged every thing we met--dogs, monkeys, +pigs--except the captain. All our sufferings and privations were +forgotten in the general ecstasy, and, although thousands of leagues +were still to be run before we could arrive at the desired goal, and +months must pass away, time and space were for the time annihilated, +and, in our rapture, we fancied and we spoke as if we were within reach +of our kindred and our homes. Could it be the Samarang that we were on +board of?--the same ship that we were in not one hour ago?--the silent, +melancholy vessel, now all hands laughing, screaming, huzzaing, dancing, +and polkaing up and down the deck like maniacs? And then when the +excitement was a little over, and we became more rational, Why were we +ordered home? was the first surmise. We had been sent out on a seven +years' expedition, and we had not yet been out four. The surveys were +not half finished. Was it the row that the captain had had with the +admiral, and the reports of many officers who had quitted the ship? We +made up our minds at last that it must have been upon the +representations of the admiral to the Admiralty that we had been ordered +home. There could be no other reason. We drank his health in nine times +nine. + +[Illustration: ILLANOAN PIRATE. + +(TAMPASSOOK, BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +On the 24th of March we sailed from Balam-bangan, with the intention of +making a flying survey of the coast of Borneo, as far as the island of +Labuan and the country at Sarawak, to make the best of our way to +Sincapore, at which place we hoped to arrive about the 1st of May, there +to receive our final orders and start for England. It would be tedious, +and it is not necessary, to give a description of the survey which we +afterwards made. We went over the same ground as before, and we surveyed +with a musket in one hand and a sextant in the other, for the natives +were not to be trusted. Our warlike friends at Tampassook did not much +relish our re-appearance on their coast. A Spanish slave made his escape +from them and came on board, begging a passage to any where. He had been +taken prisoner, with six or seven others, in an engagement between the +Manilla gun boats and the Illanoan pirates, and had been very cruelly +treated. We learnt from this man that the pirates of Tampassook are very +rich, and possessed a large number of fine prahus. They had also plenty +of fire-arms, but were afraid of them, preferring their own weapons. + +It was here that we heard the news of the murder of our old friends +Rajah Muda and Bud-ruddeen. It appeared that they had been accused of +being privy to the attack of the English on Maludu, and supporting our +claims to the island of Labuan. Bud-ruddeen died as he had lived, a +brave man, and worthy of a better fate. On the approach of his enemies +he retired to his house with his sister and favourite wife, both of whom +insisted upon sharing his destiny. For some time he fought like a lion +against a superior force, until his servants one by one fell dead. He +then retired dangerously wounded to an inner chamber, with his wife and +sister, and, allowing his enemies to follow him till the house was +filled with them, he fired his pistol into a barrel of gunpowder, which +had been placed in readiness, and at once destroyed himself, his +friends, and his enemies. But this barbarous murder on the part of the +sultan of Borneo and his advisers was not left unpunished. Sir Thomas +Cochrane went to Bruni with his squadron, and reduced the sultan to +submission and a proper respect for the English, and those who were +friendly with them. + +As we approached Labuan we found it necessary to be on the _qui vive_, +as all the natives were hostile to us, and would have cut off our +surveying parties if they had had a chance. In the bay of Gaya, we met a +brother of Bud-ruddeen. He was the Rajah of the small province of +Kalabutan. Both he and his followers burned to revenge the death of a +man so universally beloved as Rajah Muda, and offered to accompany us +with their whole force to attack the city of Bruni. They came on board +of us with fowls, eggs, and fruits. They placed little value on dollars, +preferring white linen, handkerchiefs, and bottles, to any other article +in the way of traffic. We, therefore, as we were so soon going to +England, made no ceremony of parting with our old clothes in exchange +for stock; and the next vessel that visits the river will be surprised +at the quantity of midshipmen's jackets, sailors' hats, and marines' +boots, which will be worn by the inhabitants, in addition to their own +costume. Mr. Adams, the assistant surgeon, had obtained permission to +accept the Rajah's invitation to visit the town, which was some five or +six miles up the river. He saw nothing worthy of remark except some of a +tribe of aborigines (Dusums). Their only covering consisted of large +metal rings worn round the neck and hips. + +[Illustration: NATIVES OF N. E. COAST OF BORNEO.] + +While a party were observing on shore, a short distance to the northward +of Kalabutan, they were fired at by a party of natives concealed in the +jungle. The only person who was wounded was the Spaniard, whom we had +rescued at Tampassook, who was standing by the captain. The ball passed +through his arm, and grazed his body. The arms were handed out of the +gig, which was close at hand, and the enemy retreated into the wood. The +cutter then joined, and having a three-pounder on her bows, opened fire +upon the natives, who had re-assembled.. The first two or three shots +passed over their heads, and encouraged by no injury being done to them, +they came forward dancing, yelling, drawing their knives and spears in +defiance. But a shot passing through the body of the chief set them all +off. They bore him away on their shoulders, and did not afterwards make +their appearance. After cannonading the village for an hour, and doing +them all the mischief that we could, by destroying their fortifications, +burning one and carrying off another prahu, we returned on board, and +then made sail for the island of Labuan, where we arrived on the 25th of +April, 1846. Here our surveying was completed, and we made the best of +our way to Sarawak, where we arrived on the 30th of April. We learnt all +the news of the little colony from Dr. Treecher, who came to visit us. + +[Illustration: DUSUM. + +(N. COAST OF BORNEO.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +We found that Mr. Brooke had been recognised by Government, and that +Captain Bethune had been testing the capability of making Labuan a coal +depot. Poor Williamson, the interpreter, and a great friend of ours, had +been drowned some months previous, while crossing the river at night in +a small canoe, and no doubt fell a prey to the alligators. He was not +only a very amiable, but a very clever fellow, and his loss was deeply +felt by every body. + +Mr. Brooke was absent from Kuchin on an expedition to the Sakarran +river, in the Phlegethon steamer, to inquire into the particulars, and +punish, if necessary, an attack upon his Dyak allies by the natives of +Sakarran. Two Sakarran chiefs, accompanied by a great many war prahus, +had paid a visit to Mr. Brooke, and had been entertained by him in his +usual hospitable manner. At their departure he loaded the chiefs with +presents, for which they appeared to be extremely grateful. As a return +for this kindness, and to prove their sincerity as allies, the principal +chief left his son, a boy of twelve years of age, with Mr. Brooke. But +notwithstanding that this boy was as a hostage, they could not resist an +opportunity of plunder, and that very evening they ascended one of the +tributary streams of the Sarawak, attacked a village, and brought off +with them twenty-seven heads of the unfortunate Dyaks. When the news +arrived, Mr. Brooke was so much enraged at their treachery, that he +almost determined upon sacrificing the boy chief, as the natives +expected; but not wishing to visit the sins of the father upon the lad, +who was innocent, and fearful that his own people would not be so +forbearing, he returned the boy to his parents. We all felt annoyed that +we had not an opportunity of bidding farewell to Mr. Brooke, and +thanking him for his kindness to us whenever he had an opportunity of +showing it. He was, indeed, beloved by every body who had the pleasure +of his acquaintance. + +Sailed for Sincapore. The next night we communicated with the Julia (Mr. +Brooke's vessel). She had on board Captain Elliott, and twenty-five +sepoys[3], who were to be stationed as a garrison at Kuchin. We were +much pleased to find that Government had taken up this cause so warmly, +and that Mr. Brooke was likely to be recognised by it, after all his +individual exertions. Our passage to Sincapore proved very tedious, all +hands upon short allowance, and no grog. We touched at Barren Island, +and obtained a large quantity of sea birds' eggs, but they were mostly +rotten; but this did not prevent our making omelets of them, for we were +now with only three days' provisions on board at half allowance, and the +calm still continued. Three days we were in sight of the island, the +sails flapped idly against the masts, and not a breath disturbed the +surface of the ocean wave. We thought of the tale of the Ancient +Mariner, and there were not wanting those on board who declared that +this continued calm was a judgment upon us, not for shooting an +albatross, but for robbing the nests of the eggs. + + [Footnote 3: These sepoys were raised and _paid_ by Mr. Brooke.] + +Our barges were sent to Sincapore for provisions, for famine was staring +us in the face, but that same night a breeze sprang up, and on the 20th +of May we dropped our anchor in the roads. At Sincapore we found the +Hazard, 18, whose crew suffered so much at New Zealand; and here also we +found, to our inexpressible delight, our orders for England, of which we +had begun to have some doubts. On the 14th of June arrived the Admiral, +in H. M. S. Agincourt, towed by the Spitfire steamer. As soon as he was +joined by the rest of the squadron, it was the intention of Sir T. +Cochrane to make sail for Bruni, and punish the six-fingered sultan and +his piratical advisers. + +Sincapore, like all new settlements, is composed of so mixed a +community, that there is but little hospitality, and less gaiety. Every +one is waiting to ascertain what is to be his position in society, and +till then is afraid of committing himself by friendly intercourse; +moreover, every body is too busy making money. The consequence is, but +few parties are given, and a ball is so rare that it becomes the subject +of conversation for months. There are some good-looking girls at +Sincapore, but it is only at church or on parade that a stranger obtains +a glimpse of them. Prudery is at present the order of the day, and this +is carried to such an extent from non-intercourse, that at a farewell +ball given to the Cambrians, the women would only polka and waltz with +each other. + +The country immediately outside the town of Sincapore is spotted with +little bungaloes, the retreat of the merchants from the monotonous +business-life which they are compelled to lead. The plantations of +nutmegs and beetle-nut which surround these country residences are very +luxuriant; and at this time the fruit was on the trees, and the odour +quite delightful. One male tree is planted for every ten females. Very +little cloves or cinnamon are grown at this settlement, but I saw some +specimens. A nutmeg tree is valued, when it once arrives to full +bearing, at a guinea a year. The Areca-palm is a very beautiful tree, +and requires but little attention: these and cocoa-nut are valued at a +dollar per year. Large quantities of sugar-cane are now grown here, and +some fine sugar-mills are built in the vicinity of the town. The roads +are kept in good repair by the convicts, and are now really very +respectable. + +The Chinese joss-house here is considered very fine, and I made a +drawing of it. It has some good stone carving and figures, but is very +inferior to that of Ningpo. During the time that I was drawing it was +filled with Chinese, who were very inquisitive and troublesome: the only +method I could devise for keeping them off was by filling a bowl full of +vermilion, and when their curiosity overcame their prudence, and they +came rubbing up against me, daubing their faces with the colour--this +plan, accompanied with a kick, proved effectual. + +[Illustration: CONVICT.] + +Sincapore being the penal settlement of India, there are a large number +of convicts here, who are chained, and work at the roads and bridges. +One night I visited the gaol, and was taken over it by an overseer. We +first visited the Chinese department. Two long benches ran along the +room, on which were stretched some thirty men. As the overseer passed he +struck each man with his rattan, and in a moment they were all sitting +up, rubbing their eyes, and looking as innocent as possible. They were +all confined for murder, and were a most rascally-looking set. From this +room we proceeded to another, fitted in the same manner, and filled with +Indians. Many of them were branded on the forehead with "Doomga," which +signifies murder; and in some cases the brand was both in Hindostanee +and English. Leaving them, we entered a small room close to the gates of +the gaol, and guarded by a sentry. In this room were confined the most +reckless characters. They were but eight in number. Parallel to the +bench ran a long iron rod, and to this they were shackled, both hands +and feet. The first man among them pointed out to me by the overseer was +a fine-looking grey-bearded Indian, of great stature, and with the eyes +of a tiger. He had been formerly a rich shipowner at Bombay; but having +been convicted of insuring his vessels to a large amount, and then +setting fire to them, his property was confiscated by the government, +and he was sentenced to work for life in chains. It is said that he has +offered a million rupees to any man who will knock off his irons. His +son carries on the business at Bombay, and it was reported that a vessel +was always lying at Sincapore ready to receive him in case he should +effect his escape; but of this there does not appear to be the slightest +chance, as he is particularly watched and guarded. + +[Illustration: KLING WOMAN.] + +The next culprits pointed out to us were two of the heads of the secret +society of India. So much has already been said of this extraordinary +association, that I need not discuss it here. There is, however, a +society in Sincapore of a similar nature, composed of all the lower +orders of the Chinese. It is said to amount to 15,000; and the police is +much too weak to prevent the robberies, although some check is put to +them by the presence of the military. It must not be supposed that +because there are 15,000 in the society, that there are that quantity of +robbers: such is not the case. Of course it is difficult to arrive at +the regulations of any secret society, but as far as can be collected, +they are as follows. A certain portion of the society are regular +thieves, and these in a body compel those who are inoffensive to join +the society, by threats of destruction of property, &c. If the party +joins the society, all that is expected of him is, that he will aid and +assist to prevent the capture, and give an asylum to any one of the +society who may be in danger. The richest Chinese merchants have been +compelled to join, and lend their countenance to this society, upon pain +of destruction of their property, and even assassination, if they +refuse; and as they have more than once put their threats into +execution, the merchants have not the courage to resist. Shortly after +our arrival at Sincapore, the burial of one of the chiefs of the society +took place; and such was the concourse assembled to witness the funeral, +that it was thought advisable to call out the troops, as a skirmish was +expected to take place. However, every thing passed off quietly. + +The richest Chinaman at Sincapore is Whampoa: he supplies the navy with +stores, and has a thriving business. His country house is a favourite +resort of the naval officers, and he gives excellent dinners, and very +agreeable parties. His champagne is particularly approved of. + +There is little or no amusement at Sincapore. During the afternoon every +body is asleep. In the cool of the evening half a dozen palanquins, and +perhaps a few gigs, may be seen driving on the parade: these proceed at +a steady pace round the grass-plot for about an hour; and this is the +only exercise taken. Fashion is very drowsy here, and only wakes up +occasionally, that she may sleep the longer afterwards. From the want of +hospitality, the evenings are passed by strangers at the hotels, playing +billiards, smoking, and drinking. The hotels are very good, in +consequence of the steamers from Bombay to Hong Kong touching here; they +are fitted up with an unusual degree of comfort; and the charges are, of +course, not very moderate. The markets are well supplied with fruit, +vegetables, and stock of all kinds. Among the fruits must be mentioned +the mangostein, which is brought from Malacca; and the pine-apples from +the island of St. John's. The opposite side of the island upon which +Sincapore is built is well wooded. A great many tigers swim over from +the main, and pits are dug for their destruction, 100 dollars being +given by government for every tiger killed. + +On the 18th we received our final orders, and took our farewell of +Eastern India; but it must not be supposed that we made the best of our +passage to England. On the contrary, the captain was as anxious to +remain out as we were to get home; and we were six months and twelve +days from the time that we left Sincapore till our arrival at +Portsmouth. The fact was, that the pay and emoluments of a surveying +captain are such, that our captain felt no inclination to be paid off; +and as he never spent any money, he was laying up a nice provision for +his retirement; besides which he hoped that, upon his representations to +the Admiralty, the order for his recall would be cancelled, and that he +would find a letter to that effect at the Cape of Good Hope. His object, +therefore, was to spin out the time as much as possible, so as to allow +the answer of the Admiralty to arrive at the Cape before we did. We were +ordered to survey some shoals, the Cagardos Carahos, on our passage +home; but I believe nothing more. + +On Sunday, the 22d, we anchored off a small island near to the isle of +Billaton. At two A. M. we weighed, and ten minutes afterwards the ship +struck on a shoal. All our exertions to get her off proved abortive, and +in this uncomfortable position we remained till the following Thursday, +when she again floated, after throwing overboard the guns, and landing +such stores as we could on the island. This accident and light winds +lengthened our passage to Anger (the Dutch settlement in Java) to +twenty-one days; and there we remained five days, to ascertain the rate +of our chronometers. This Dutch settlement at Anger, although slightly +fortified, might be made a place of great consequence: both outward and +homeward bound vessels touch here for water and stock; and were it +properly supported and improved by the Dutch, as it should be, it would +command a great deal of trade, and during war be of great consequence. +It is governed by a Dutch military officer, and is garrisoned with about +fifty soldiers. The country is remarkably fine here, the plains richly +cultivated and covered with cattle. The farmers complain bitterly of the +taxes imposed upon them by the Dutch, taxes so onerous that no native +has a chance of realising any profits of consequence; but this is Dutch +policy, and very unwise policy it is. We now thought that we were about +to proceed to the isle of France direct, but we were mistaken: we +weighed anchor, and proceeded to the Cocoa islands. This is a low group +of islands literally covered with cocoa-nut trees. These islands are +possessed by a Mr. Ross, formerly mate of a merchant vessel. His family +consisted of two sons and two daughters, and are the only Europeans who +reside there. We could not help thinking that the Misses Ross had very +little chance of getting husbands. The remainder of the population, +amounting to about 120 souls, are all black. They extract the oil from +the cocoa-nut, and trade with it to Java, from whence they procure the +necessary supplies. Whalers occasionally call here to obtain fresh +provisions; but the visit of a man-of-war was quite an event. + +From the Cocoas we steered for the Cagardos Carahos shoals, where we +remained for more than a fortnight, surveying. There are several islands +close to these shoals, which are in the shape of a crescent. They are +very dangerous, being in the direct track of ships from China and the +Indies. + +Indeed, we had ocular proof of their dangerous position, for there were +seven or eight wrecks upon them, and the small islands of sand were +crowded with masts, spars, chests, interspersed with human bones +bleaching in the powerful sun. On one of the islands we discovered the +remains of the British ship Letitia, which was wrecked in September, +1845. At a short distance from the beach was the grave of the captain, +who was drowned in attempting to reach the shore with a bag of dollars. +Had he not held on so tight to the bag, he would in all probability have +been saved, as were all the rest on board of her. It certainly would be +very advisable to build a lighthouse upon these shoals; the expense +would be nothing compared to the loss of property and life which they +occasion every year. From the Cagardos Carahos we proceeded to the +Mauritius. Here we found the President, bearing the flag of Admiral +Dacres, and the Snake brig just arrived from England. + +Port Louis has been too often described to be mentioned here. Behind it +rose a range of mountains, the highest of which are about 1400 feet +above the level of the sea, and completely shelter the town from the S. +E. gales, which at this period of the year blow with great violence. +Among these mountains is the famous Peter-Botte, and we looked upon it +with great interest, in consequence of the daring and successful attempt +made a few years since by some Englishmen to attain the summit of it. +Even now, although we know that it has been done, it appears to be +impossible. One of the leaders of this expedition was Lieutenant Thomas +Keppel, the brother of our favourite Captain Henry Keppel, and this +circumstance gave it more interest to us; but T. Keppel has since left +the service, and is now a Reverend, moored in a snug _Creek_, and has +quite given over climbing up Peter-Bottes. During the short time that we +remained at this delightful island, we received every kindness and +attention from the governor and his lady, and the officers of the two +regiments stationed there. + +[Illustration: PORT LOUIS. + +(MAURITIUS.) + +F. M. DELT. + +M. N. HANHART LITH. PRINTERS + +LONDON; LONGMAN & CO. 1848] + +From the Mauritius we proceeded to the Cape of Good Hope. On the morning +of the 24th of September we hove in sight of the Table Mountain, but it +was not until the 26th that we cast anchor in Simon's Bay. Here we +remained for a month, waiting for the arrival of the mail from England. +At last it arrived, but not bringing us, as our captain hoped, the order +for his return to India, on the 24th of October we made sail for +England, and, calling at St. Helena and Ascension _en route_, on the +last day of the year we dropped our anchor at Spithead. We were not, +however, emancipated till the 18th day of January, on which day the ship +was paid off, for which, and all other mercies, may the Lord be +praised! + + + + +OBSERVATIONS + +UPON + +THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. + + +It is with diffidence that I take up my pen to offer a few remarks upon +the prospects afforded to our commerce and manufactures by the opening +of the Eastern Archipelago. Hitherto I have done little more than +narrate what I have seen, and have seldom made any attempt to express +what I have thought. However, as my thoughts have been generated from +what I have observed, whether I am correct or not in my opinions, I +shall venture to lay them before my readers. + +How it is that until lately we have never taken any notice of this +immense archipelago it is difficult to say, unless we are to suppose +that, up to the present, the other portions of the inhabited globe have +been found sufficient to consume our manufactures as fast as they could +be produced. It does appear strange that an assemblage of islands, +which, large and small, amounting to about 12,000 in number, equal in +territory to any continent, and so populous, for the inhabitants, +including the more northern islands, are estimated at fifty millions, +should have hitherto been unnoticed, and, at all events, have not +attracted the attention of our government. Moreover, there are such +facilities of communication, not being compelled, as with the Chinese, +to confine ourselves to five or six ports, at which the whole trade is +centred in the hands of a monopoly, taxed with the expences of +land-carriage, port duties, and other exactions. Here, on the contrary, +from the division of the territory into so many portions, we possess all +the advantages of inland navigation, if I may use such a term, for the +straits and channels between them serve as large rivers do on the +continents to render the communication with the interior easy and +accessible. And yet, although we have had possession of the East Indies +for so many years, this archipelago has been wholly neglected. At all +events, the discovery of it, for it is really such, has come in good +time, and will give a stimulus to our manufactures, most opportune, now +that we have so much increased them, that we are in want of customers. +Still we have, almost unknown to ourselves, been advancing towards it +step by step. The taking possession of the island of Sincapore was the +first and greatest stride towards it. Had it not been that we had +founded that settlement, we probably should not have been nearer to +Borneo now, than we were fifty years ago. Sir T. Raffles conferred a +great boon upon this country, and is entitled to its gratitude for +pointing out the advantages which would accrue from this possession. +Till we had made a settlement there, we knew no more of the eastern +archipelago, than what had been obtained by our circumnavigators, or of +the produce of it, further than that Borneo was the country from which +could be obtained the orang-outang. + +Latterly we have been at some trouble and expence in forcing our trade +with China, little aware that almost in the route to China we had an +opening for commerce, which, in a few years, judiciously managed, will +become by far the most lucrative of the two, and what perhaps is still +more important, may be the means of a most extended trade with China, as +we can drive the Chinese from the archipelago, and supply China from +them ourselves; but of that hereafter. + +One cause, perhaps, which has prevented us from turning our attention in +this direction has been, an unwillingness to interfere with the Dutch, +who have been supposed to have been in possession of all the valuable +islands in the archipelago, and from long-standing to have a prior right +to this portion of the East; but, although the Dutch have not been idle, +and are gradually adding to their possessions, there is little chance of +our interfering with them, as there is room, and more, for the Dutch, +ourselves, and every other nation which may feel inclined to compete +with us. The possessions of the Dutch are but a mere strip in this +immense field; and, although it is true that they have settlements on +the Spice Islands, so named, yet we now know that every one of these +islands may be made spice islands, if the inhabitants are stimulated by +commerce to produce these articles of trade. + +It was the settlement at Sincapore which first gave us a notion of the +trade which might be carried on with this archipelago. Every year large +fleets of prahus have come up to Sincapore laden with commodities for +barter, and have taken in exchange European goods to a certain extent; +but their chief object has been to obtain gunpowder and shot, to carry +on their piratical expeditions. In fact, they are traders when they can +only obtain what they want by exchange; but when they can obtain it by +force, they then change their character, and become pirates. But our +possession of Labuan has brought us about eight hundred miles nearer to +these people, and enables us to take more effectual steps towards the +suppression of piracy than we have hitherto done; for this we may lay +down as an axiom, that we never shall reap the advantages promised to us +by commerce in this archipelago till we have most effectually put an end +to the piracy which has existed in these quarters for centuries. Before +I go on, I cannot help here observing how much this country is indebted +to Mr. Brooke for his unwearied exertions in the cause of humanity, and +his skilful arrangements. It is to be hoped, that our gratitude to him +will be in proportion, and that Her Majesty's ministers will, in their +distribution of honour and emoluments among those who have served them, +not forget to bestow some upon one who has so well served his country. + +The largest, and perhaps the most important of the islands in this +archipelago, although at present the most barbarous, and the most +hostile to us, is that of Papua, or New Guinea. The inhabitants are as +well inclined to commerce as the other natives of the archipelago, and +do at present carry on a considerable trade with the Chinese, who repair +there every year in their junks, which they fill with valuable cargoes +adapted for the Chinese market. The Chinese have found the trade with +New Guinea so lucrative, that they are doing all that they can to secure +the monopoly of it, and with this view take every occasion, and do all +that they possibly can, to blacken the character of the Europeans in the +minds of the inhabitants. It is to this cause that the Papuan's +hostility to Europeans, and especially to the English, is to be +ascribed; and before we have any chance of commerce with this people, it +is necessary that the Chinese should be driven away from the island, +that they may no longer injure us by their malicious fabrications. This +will be but a just retribution for the falsehoods and lies which they +have circulated to our disadvantage. And there is another reason why we +should be little scrupulous in taking this measure, which is, that one +of their principal articles of commerce with the Papuans consists in +slaves, which are taken on board by the Chinese, and sold at Borneo, and +the adjacent islands of the archipelago, at a great profit. To obtain +these slaves, the Chinese stimulate the Papuan tribes to war with each +other, as is done for the same purpose in Africa. As this traffic is +very considerable, and we are as much bound to put down the slave trade +in the east as in the west, we have full warrant for driving their junks +away, and, by so doing, there is little doubt but that in a few years we +shall secure all the valuable trade of this island to ourselves. + +Borneo is, however, the island (or continent) to which our first +attention will be particularly devoted. Up to the present we know little +of it except its coasts and a portion of its rivers; but it is here that +our principal attention must be given, as in its rivers and the island +of Sooloo the chief piratical hordes exist. We have already had some +sharp conflicts with them, and have given them some severe lessons; but +although we have given them a momentary check, and some idea of our +immense superiority, we must not imagine that two or three successful +conflicts are sufficient to put an end to a system which has been +carried on for centuries, and which is so universal, that the whole of +the present generation may be said to have been "born pirates." In fact, +we shall be compelled to subdue them wholly, to destroy them in all +their fastnesses, to leave them without a prahu in their possession, to +depose or confine their chiefs, to destroy their forts, and to carry on +a war of extermination for some years, before we shall put down the +piratical system which at present exists. It is not quite so easy a task +as may be imagined to reform so many millions of people: for it must be +remembered that it is not only at Borneo that we shall have to act, but +that we must destroy the power of the sultan of Sooloo, and other tribes +who frequent other islands, and who follow the same profession. It must +not be forgotten that one of the principal objects of these piratical +excursions is to procure slaves for sale at other ports; and perhaps +this is by far the most profitable part of the speculation. As long as +there is no security for the person, commerce must languish, and be +proportionably checked. In putting down these marauders, we are, +therefore, putting down the slave trade as with the Chinese at New +Guinea. The sooner that this is effected the better; and to do it +effectually we should have a large force at Labuan, ready to act with +decision. Let it be remembered that, with people so crafty and so cruel +as the Malays and descendants of the Arabs, lenity is misplaced, and is +ascribed to cowardice. No half measures will succeed with them. Indeed, +I have my doubts whether it will not be necessary to destroy almost +every prahu in the archipelago, and compel the natives to remain on +their territory, to cultivate or collect articles for barter, before we +shall effect our purpose; for the prahu that sails as a trader is +changed into a pirate as soon as temptation rises on her way. Indeed, if +Labuan becomes, as it will probably be, an emporium and depot for +European commerce, without such stringent measures a great stimulus +would be given to piracy. The peaceable trading parties, on their +return, would be laid in wait for by the piratical prahus, and the +English manufactures on board would be so tempting, and such a source of +wealth, that they would be irresistible. Neither should we be able to +afford any protection to the traders, as they would be laid in wait for +at the mouths or up the rivers, and would be captured without our +knowledge; with this difference, perhaps, that the fear of detection +would induce them to murder all the prisoners, instead of selling them +as slaves, as they do at present. Unless, therefore, the most stringent +measures are resorted to on our parts, an increase of commerce with this +archipelago would only occasion in a reciprocal ratio an increase of +piracy. + +The occupation of Labuan and Sarawak will, I should imagine, prove +hardly sufficient to effect the important change to be desired, _i. e._ +that of the total suppression of piracy. Stations, with forts, must be +established at the mouths of the principal rivers, that we may have a +constant watch upon the movements of the occupants. In so doing we +should be only encroaching upon those who have encroached upon others: +these rivers have been taken forcible possession of by the Malays and +Arabs, who have driven away the proprietors of the soil, which are the +Dyaks, the aborigines of the island; and they have no more right to the +possessions which they hold, than their chiefs have to the high-sounding +titles which they have assumed. That in taking this step we shall +interfere with no vested rights is certain: we shall merely be +dispossessing these piratical marauders of their strongholds; and the +cause of humanity will sufficiently warrant such interference on our +parts. + +In our first attempts to establish, a peaceful and secure commerce with +this archipelago, it appears to me that it would be advisable for the +Government to take some share in the venture. Ten or twelve schooners, +well manned, confided to intelligent officers, and armed with one heavy +gun, and swivels in the gunwales, should sail for Labuan, with assorted +cargoes, with the view of both trading and checking piracy. Much depends +upon the way in which the barter is first commenced, and it would be as +well that it should not be left in the hands of adventurers, whose +mercenary feelings might induce them to excite doubt or irritation in +the minds of the natives, and, by such means, do great mischief, and +impede the trade. The constant appearance of these vessels in the +archipelago, the knowledge that they were sent, not only to barter, but +also to protect the well-disposed against violence and rapine, would +soon produce most beneficial effects, and would impose confidence. +Merchant vessels which entered the trade should be empowered, by letters +of marque, to put down piracy, and should be armed in a similar way. +Although there is little doubt but that in a short time vessels would +sail from Labuan with full cargoes for Europe, still it is more than +probable that the most important part of the trade, and which would +employ most vessels, would be the colonial trade, or rather, country +trade, to the several marts in the Indus and China. There are many +productions of the archipelago which are only valued in the East, such +as beche-de-mer, or trepang; edible birds' nests, &c. This trade we +might very soon monopolise to ourselves, and a most lucrative one it +would prove. The following are the articles to be found in more or less +quantities over the whole of the Indian archipelago:--Antimony, tin, +gold, diamonds, pearls, sapphires, ivory, gums, camphor, sago, pepper, +tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, skins, wax, honey, cocoa-nut oil, +coffee, rice, and coal, edible birds' nests and trepang; all the +varieties of spices, as cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, can be grown as soon +as there is a market for them; the cotton tree nourishes; and, although +not yet worked, it is proved that there is abundance of copper and lead. +An archipelago containing such rich productions, and which we may, with +some little trouble, receive in exchange for our manufactures, becomes a +national concern, and it is the paramount duty of the Government to take +every measure to facilitate the communication with it. + +The expedition of Mr. Murray to the river Coti, on the south side of +Borneo, although, from imprudence, it ended not only unsuccessfully but +tragically, fully establishes that an opening for commerce is to be +established. In this expedition Mr. Murray, by his imprudence and +unguarded conduct, brought upon himself the attack of the natives, in +which he lost his own life, and the vessels with great difficulty +escaped. Since that failure, no English vessels have attempted to trade +to the south of Borneo; but we discovered that the Macassar boats paid +the coast an occasional visit, under Dutch colours, exchanging beads and +other trumpery for rich cargoes of ivory and skins. We also discovered +that commercial negotiations with this country would not be attended +with any risk, provided that the vessels employed were well armed, and +the arrangements were so made as not to excite the jealousy and +suspicion of the natives. + +European manufactures would be eagerly purchased by the natives, and +would be paid for in ivory, rough ores, or dollars. Mr. Wyndham, who has +settled at Sooloo, has already sent a vessel to trade on the south-east +side of the island, near Gonong Tabor. + +So much for the southern portion of this immense archipelago. We have +still to examine the more northern. Indeed, when we look upon the map, +and see the quantity of territory with which we may eventually find the +means of trading,--the millions who, but for the jealousy of the +governments, would be glad to receive our manufactures,--we are lost in +conjecture as to what extent it might eventually be driven. In the north +we should certainly have more difficulties to contend with; and it will +require that the whole of the naval force in India should be, for a +time, devoted to this object. I believe it is as much from their utter +ignorance of our power, as from any other cause, that we have hitherto +been so unsuccessful at Japan; but the object we have in view may be +effected, provided that a certain degree of the _fortiter in re_ be +combined with the _suaviter in modo_. The Japanese now carry on a large +trade with China, and also a confined trade with the Dutch, to whom they +have allowed a factory upon a small island; but they treat the Dutch +with the greatest indignity, and the Dutch submit to it, and, in so +doing, have rendered the Europeans vile in the estimation of the +Japanese. This is the error which must be destroyed by some means or +other, even if it should be necessary to pick a quarrel with them, as we +have already done with the Chinese. At the same time that I admit the +expediency of so doing, I by no means assert that we shall be altogether +justified. + +There is another point worthy of consideration, which is, that a whale +fishery depot might be made with great success in this archipelago, any +where to the southward and eastward; and we might recover a large +portion of that lucrative employment, which, by the means of British +seamen employed in American vessels, has been wrested from us; for +although, at the commencement, the whale fishery from the States was +carried on by Americans only, since it has so enormously increased, at +least two-thirds of the people employed in the vessels are English +seamen, who have become expert in the profession. It is much to be +lamented that the laudable exertions of Mr. Enderby and others to revive +this lucrative employment for our vessels and seamen has hitherto +failed, and that some part of our surplus capital has not been devoted +to an object so important to us as a maritime country. + +I shall conclude with a reflection which I made while I was on the +coast, leaving the reader to agree with me or not, as he may be +disposed. How is it, as I have already observed, that all the colonies +founded by other nations, either languish or have been swept away,--not +all, perhaps, as yet, but the major portion of them; while every colony +founded by our little island appears to flourish, till it becomes so +powerful as not only no longer to require the nursing of the mother +country, but to throw off its dependence, and become a nation of itself? +How is it that it can so truly be said that the sun never sets upon the +English flag? It cannot be from any want of energy, or activity, or +intelligence, or judgment in other nations; for surely in these +qualifications we are not superior to the French or to the Dutch, +although we may be to the present race of Spaniards and Portuguese. Our +colonies have not been more carefully fostered than theirs: on the +contrary, they have been neglected, and, if not neglected, they have +been but too often oppressed. Why, then, should this be? Can religion +have any thing to do with this? Can it be that Providence has +imperceptibly interfered, and has decided that England shall perform +the high mission; that she has been selected, as a chosen country, to +fill the whole world with the true faith, with the pure worship of the +Almighty? Has it been for this object that we have been supported in our +maritime superiority? Has it been with this view that we have been +permitted to discomfit the navies of the whole world? May it not be that +when our naval commanders, with a due regard to propriety, have +commenced their despatches with "It has pleased the Almighty to grant us +a splendid victory," at the same time that they were trusting to the +arms of flesh and blood which have so well supported their endeavours, +and in their hearts ascribed their successes to the prowess of man,--may +it not be, I say, that the Almighty has, for his own good reasons, +fought on our side, and has given us victory upon victory, until we have +swept the seas, and made the name of England known to the uttermost +corners of the globe? Has this been granted us, and have we really been +selected as a favoured nation to spread the pure light of the gospel +over the universe? Who can say? "His ways are not our ways;" but if so, +it is a high destiny, which we must act up to at every sacrifice and at +every expence. + + + + +THE END. + + + + +London: +Spottiswoode and Shaw, +New-street-Square. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +The author's original (and inconsistent) spelling of place and person +names has been preserved, although in some cases, the modern equivalents +are substantially different. + +In the original text, most illustration captions had terminating +punctuation but a few did not. In this transcription, terminating +punctuation has been added to those captions which did not have them in +order to remain consistent with the style most commonly seen in the +text. + +Lithographs facing pages 85, 142, 199 and 201 were missing a line +specifying the publisher "Longman & Co" which is present in the other +lithographs. It is possible that the pages used for this transcription +had been physically truncated. The original appearance of the physical +page has been preserved and the publisher line, if missing, has not been +added. + +Inconsistencies in hyphenation of words preserved. (orang outang, +orang-outang; blowpipe, blow-pipe; bow-man, bowman; daylight, day-light; +flagstaff, flag-staff; goodwill, good-will; gunshot, gun-shot; +lighthouse, light-house; parang, pa-rang; pineapples, pine-apples; +tomtoms, tom-toms; whitewashed, white-washed; pic nic, pic-nic; Nepa +palm, nepa-palms) + +In the original text, the characters in abbreviations were separated by +either a half-space or a full-space. This has been standardized to a +full-space in all cases for this transcription. + +Pg. 19, unusual or archaic spelling of "musquitos" retained. (musquitos, +scorpions, lizards, and centipedes) + +Pg. 20, there is a reference to date 27th May. Context suggests it +should probably be 27th July. The original text has been preserved. (On +the 27th May every thing had been prepared) + +Pg. 21, "wth" changed to "with". (delightful bay studded with small) + +Pg. 35, unusual or archaic spelling of "phrensy" retained. (The lovers +were in a state of phrensy) + +Pg. 90, unusual or archaic spelling of "segars" retained. (We had plenty +of wine and segars) + +Pg. 206, word after comma begins with uppercase, most probably it +represents the start of an unspoken thought in the author's mind. +Original text retained. (and we became more rational, Why were we +ordered home?) + +Pg. 211, "depot". On Pgs. 227 and 230, it is spelled "depot". Original +spelling preserved in all cases. + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Borneo and the Indian Archipelago, by +Frank S. 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