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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria, by 
+Ludwig Salvator
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria
+
+Author: Ludwig Salvator
+
+Translator: Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26705]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA.]
+
+
+
+
+   THE CARAVAN ROUTE
+
+   BETWEEN
+
+   EGYPT AND SYRIA
+
+   TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+   WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR
+
+   London
+
+   CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY
+
+   1881
+
+   _All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.
+
+
+The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig
+Salvator of Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.
+
+By his numerous travels and scientific labours, the name of this Prince
+has become well known and highly appreciated among the geographers of
+all nations; and only a short time ago His Imperial Highness was elected
+an honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society, of whom there are
+but eight others, in a total list of some 3500 Fellows.
+
+His works of travel--comprising parts of America, Africa, and the
+Mediterranean coasts--have also attracted so much attention, that their
+translation into the English language seemed to be justified.
+
+The list of these works, together with some details regarding the life
+of their illustrious author, appeared in the translator's introduction
+to the first work published in English;[1] and in referring to it the
+translator of the present volume confidently expects a continuation of
+the friendly reception accorded to "Levkosìa, the Capital of Cyprus."
+
+                                      CHEVALIER DE HESSE-WARTEGG.
+
+   GERMAN ATHENÆUM CLUB,
+         _October 1881_.
+
+[Footnote 1: Levkosìa, the Capital of Cyprus, with an Introduction by
+the Chevalier de Krapf-Liverhoff, Imp. and Roy. Austro-Hung. Ministerial
+Councillor, etc. etc. London: Kegan Paul and Co. 1881.]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Once more I had traced my way to Egypt to pass the winter there. Like
+every European who makes a lengthened sojourn in that ancient but
+renewed land, I was led to recall the great engineering and other
+achievements accomplished within our own time, and also to consider
+future projects of development for which the country seems to present so
+wide a scope. A great deal has been heard of late on the subject of
+improved communication between Egypt and Southern Syria. Proposals for
+the construction of a new harbour at Jaffa, for a railway through the
+valley of the Jordan, and for harbour works at Beyrout, exercised my
+mind in succession; and during my frequent walks in the beautiful
+Esbekieh my thoughts were more particularly occupied with the overland
+route between Syria and Egypt. Since the wanderings of the Israelites
+through the desert, and the flight of the child Jesus, of how many great
+events have these countries been the scenes, and what various
+recollections are awakened by their names!
+
+Former travels had rendered me familiar with both Egypt and Syria, as
+well as with the different lines of communication between them,
+excepting the old caravan route over Wadi el Harish, the ancient Torrens
+Egyptii. Bearing in mind the bad harbours and dangerous anchorages of
+Southern Palestine, I speculated upon the feasibility of a railway
+connection round the coast, and, in view of that object, resolved
+personally to examine the ground.
+
+Many obstacles, however, presented themselves to the execution of my
+intention. One of these arose from the circumstance that, since the
+opening of the Suez Canal, the greater part of the traffic between Syria
+and Egypt is carried on by the short water route _viâ_ Jaffa and Port
+Said, in consequence of which the old highway, formerly so frequented by
+caravans, travellers, and pilgrims, is now deserted and forgotten. Even
+the cattle-dealers now prefer to send their stock by steamer from the
+great export harbour of Jaffa to Alexandria, so that only a few
+camel-drivers are to be met with on the once favourite route. I
+therefore found it more expedient to order a caravan of horses and mules
+from Jaffa to meet me in El Kantara, which I fixed upon as my starting
+point for the desert. The following pages contain a narrative of the
+expedition, which was undertaken in March 1878, as noted down in the
+tent on the evening of each day. My investigation convinced me that the
+railway communication so often dreamed of is absolutely impracticable,
+chiefly on account of the easily movable character of the sands of the
+desert. The line would become completely buried beneath them after every
+storm of any degree of violence, and could therefore only be kept clear
+by constant labour and expense. Of all proposals for the attainment of
+the object in question the most promising appeared to me to be the
+formation of a good harbour at Beyrout, to which all the trade of Syria
+might be directed by means of two railways, one along the rich coast of
+Southern Syria, and the other to pass down the valley of the Jordan.
+Beyrout offers greater advantages for the purpose than Jaffa, inasmuch
+as the harbour works would be easier, and therefore less costly; and the
+town itself, besides being far richer, already possesses established
+communications with Damascus and the inland trade.
+
+The accomplishment of this work seems to me so important in view of the
+welfare and commercial development of Syria, that I cannot conclude
+without expressing a wish that it may be soon undertaken under the
+auspices of those Powers in whose interests it may be.
+
+   ZINDIS, NEAR TRIESTE,
+         _October 1879_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                              PAGE
+
+   I. EL KANTARA                                 1
+
+   II. TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA                   5
+
+   III. FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD                11
+
+   IV. FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA         18
+
+   V. FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH           25
+
+   VI. EL HARISH                                30
+
+   VII. FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED       47
+
+   VIII. FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS      52
+
+   IX. KHANYUNIS                                57
+
+   X. FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA                    65
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.[2]
+
+
+   1. JEBEL EL MAGARA                      _Frontispiece._
+
+   2. JEBEL ABOU ASSAB                  _To face page_  6
+
+   3. EL GUJA                                       "   8
+
+   4. RUMMAN                                         "  9
+
+   5. KATYA                                          "  10
+
+   6. SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA                      "  12
+
+   7. LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA                              "  18
+
+   8. JEBEL EL MAGARA (taken from El Brej)           "  22
+
+   9. KOUBBA EL MAGARA                               "  23
+
+   10. JEBEL EL HALAL (taken from Ard el Murrah)     "  26
+
+   11. WADI ABOU-SBEH                                "  28
+
+   12. EL HARISH                                     "  30
+
+   13. THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH                       "  40
+
+   14. EL HARISH (View on the Northern Side)         "  42
+
+   15. KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER                         "  44
+
+   16. EL HARROUBA                                   "  48
+
+   17. MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED                    "  50
+
+   18. OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED                   "  52
+
+   19. SAGER EL EMIR                                 "  54
+
+   20. RAFAH COLUMNS                                 "  55
+
+   21. KALA OF KHANYUNIS                             "  58
+
+   22. NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA                         "  66
+
+   23. ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA                      "  68
+
+[Footnote 2: All the illustrations were drawn by the author from nature,
+reproduced on wood by Frederick Havranek, and engraved by F. Stolarz and
+J. Jass of Prague.]
+
+
+
+
+THE CARAVAN ROUTE
+
+BETWEEN
+
+EGYPT AND SYRIA.
+
+
+I.
+
+EL KANTARA.
+
+
+One of the Suez Canal Company's tugs soon took us down the canal from
+Ismailia to El Kantara (the bridge), where we were to meet our caravan.
+Just as we were landing we observed the first few horses of the latter
+crossing by the ferry which plies between the two sides of the canal.
+The boat had to go over three times to get all our animals and luggage,
+and we found it no easy work on the other side to strap up all our
+things ready for the journey. Matters seldom go altogether smoothly on
+the first day of a caravan expedition. At length a start was made, the
+mules laden with our tents and luggage going on in front, and ourselves
+bringing up the rear. The little hotel of El Kantara, with the few
+patches of vegetation surrounding it, was the last sight we had of
+civilised life. Following the telegraph posts, which mark the route from
+Egypt to Syria, we then entered the rolling desert, and soon began to
+enjoy that feeling of freedom which a boundless plain always inspires.
+Only life on the sea, with all its wonderful charms, is to be compared
+to a journey through the desert. In the midst of its vast and solitary
+expanse the traveller feels himself overwhelmed, and his imagination
+conjures up strange forms on the far horizon. The desert is to the Arab
+what the sea is to the sailor; for both, their proper element has a
+permanent and irresistible attraction. Old Abou Nabout, the leader of
+our caravan, rode on quietly in front, his eyes gazing steadfastly
+across the sandy plain, and dreams of his youth doubtless floated
+through his mind as his horse threw up clouds of sand with his hoofs.
+
+Our first ride soon came to a pause, for instead of encamping at two
+hours' distance from El Kantara, as I had ordered, the moukri
+(mule-driver) unpacked our tents in a small sandy valley which we
+reached in half an hour only. Knowing from experience how necessary it
+is to insist upon the execution of orders once issued, especially at
+the commencement of a caravan journey, I made the moukri pack up again,
+at which he was evidently not best pleased. We then continued our course
+until we came to a shallow depression of the sandy ground, where I
+directed our tents to be pitched. We travelled in a comparatively
+comfortable manner, being furnished with two tents for sleeping, and a
+third in which we took our meals. Besides these, we had a smaller tent
+for a kitchen.
+
+Everything was unpacked--our stores, the forage for our animals, and the
+water casks. These had to pass a careful inspection by our old leader,
+who repaired those which were leaky. The thirsty mules and donkeys were
+taken back to El Kantara to drink, and the camels were driven to graze
+in the neighbourhood, where were a few tamarisks, _Salsola echinus_,
+_Portulaca_, and other plants of the desert.
+
+Our tents were soon in order, and under their shelter we at last enjoyed
+our rest. Before sunset we saw our animals return from El Kantara.
+Horses and mules were then re-saddled and fastened together in a
+straight line to a long rope. Their shadows, thrown by the moon upon the
+sand, were extremely grotesque. We could now count them at our leisure.
+There were seven horses, five mules, and three donkeys. The camels,
+seven in number, were allowed to wander freely over the desert. To an
+inexperienced traveller their huge forms on the vast plain, in a dark
+night, have the appearance of ghastly phantoms. Our moukri and the
+camel-drivers had lighted a big fire, and were now stretched out at full
+length around it. We had four moukri, one of whom was a Persian named
+Ahsen, and two camel-drivers, Daud and Hassan, both from El Harish. We
+heard Abou Nabout's voice every now and then in the kitchen tent for
+some little time, but complete peace soon reigned, and it was not long
+before our little camp were fast asleep.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.
+
+
+The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might
+have a good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was
+disposed of, and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn
+were still visible upon the moving sand, but would in all probability
+become obliterated soon after our departure. It was a glorious day, and
+we felt braced and invigorated by the pure air of the desert. Proceeding
+through a uniform plain covered with purslane bushes, we saw rising in
+the distance to our right, or south-east, the Jebel Abou Assab,
+"Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more elevated
+spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up the
+canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
+vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance
+through a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible), had a most
+singular effect, and made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of
+M. De Lesseps's grand undertaking. It was not long, however, before the
+highest masts disappeared like phantoms behind the sandy waves through
+which our path lay. After passing a small hillock on our right, called
+Gerba--"water skin," we reached an undulating piece of ground commanding
+a view of the mountains above referred to, and of the group of palms
+known as Zaega--"the Beautiful." At the same time the scene was
+agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so common in the desert. A
+beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our left, displaying the
+reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even showing
+with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
+distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
+women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
+pasturage.
+
+A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a
+little water was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met
+a caravan of people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few
+wretched horses and mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two
+Bedouins, who applied to us for the customary backshish.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.]
+
+Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and
+sources of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably
+lean dromedary, bearing the mails from El Harish. We learned from his
+rider, who, as may be imagined, was glad enough of the company of a
+caravan, that the post went each way once a week, and so kept up some
+degree of communication between El Harish and the outer world. The ease
+with which the fleet animal strode across the sandy ground was quite
+delightful to witness. Now and again he got some distance ahead, and our
+horses had some difficulty in overtaking him. The entomology, too, of
+the desert did not escape our attention. We collected several specimens
+of _Anthia_, _Asida_, and _Scarabæus sacer_, the historical Scarabæus of
+the Egyptians.
+
+After going slightly up hill for some distance further through the
+wearisome sand, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the group of
+palms "El Guja"--"the snail," at the foot of the sand-hills, towards
+which we turned that we might take our lunch beneath their grateful
+shade. As one descends, a charming desert scene is presented by this
+oasis, with the Jebel Abou Assab in the background. As soon as we
+reached the spot, at half-past eleven o'clock, we pitched our little
+tent, and, soothed by the gentle rustling of the breeze through the
+leafy crowns of the tall and slender palms, enjoyed a delightful rest. I
+afterwards made a sketch of a portion of the group (see illustration),
+while Vives (one of our party) shot a couple of Calander larks and
+captured a snake. Striking our tent at two o'clock, we went, before
+continuing our journey, to look at the little well, which is lined with
+palm-stems to keep out the sand. We found the water saline, as is usual
+with desert springs.
+
+Again, proceeding upward across the sandy ground, we obtained a view on
+our right of the summit of Jebel Abou Assah. Further on, we reached an
+extended range of sand-hills, the tops of which had, from the action of
+the wind, become as angular as though they had been cut with a knife. In
+every direction were to be seen scattered about carcasses and skeletons
+of camels, the most recent of which our horses passed with great
+reluctance. The only living creatures to be met with in this still
+desert region are a few king-ravens, two of which came within range, but
+we did not feel tempted to take a shot at them. To our right we passed,
+at the foot of low sand-hills, another small group of palms, called by
+the natives El Garabiyat--"the foreign woman," with an enclosure
+made by the Bedouins for the storage of dates.
+
+[Illustration: EL GUJA.]
+
+[Illustration: RUMMAN.]
+
+Our poor horses continued toiling along, alternately up and down hill,
+across this chain of sand-hills, the sharp peaks of which stood out with
+remarkable clearness against the dark blue sky. Here and there tufts of
+grass, called Sabad, growing out between the sand, provide a welcome
+fodder for the camels. Imposing in its wild solitude is the view
+backward over the desert scene, with the palm group of
+Rumman--"pomegranate," to the right (see illustration). Soon, however,
+to our great joy, we came upon the palm group of Bir el Nus, signifying
+"Half-way Well," with a tamarisk growing near. The well itself, the
+water of which is slightly saline, is placed under a small group of
+palms to the left. This little oasis, situated at three-fourths of the
+distance from Kantara to Katya, is an inviting resting-place, but we
+decided to go on; and, continuing our progress along the well-marked
+road across the deep sandy ground, reached the small palm group of
+Tahte--"subjacent," from which that of El Garif may be seen to the left
+and that of Abou Raml to the right. These groups of verdure form a most
+enlivening contrast to the dreary scene around.
+
+From Tahte the ground gradually rises, and we soon saw over the sandy
+undulations the countless palms of Katya. Upon this, our Bedouins, who
+were quite exhausted from their toilsome journey through the sand and
+the scorching sun, expatiated in glowing terms upon the refreshing shade
+and abundant water awaiting us. We then went on through a plain and
+small coppice into a kind of Melleha, or saline plain, where we could
+see in the distance gleaming between the palm stems the white canvas of
+our tents, which we at length reached just before dusk.
+
+Our horses were much in need of rest after their laborious day's work,
+and it may be imagined how welcome the flaming fire close to the tents
+was to ourselves, and how heartily we enjoyed the evening meal which we
+found ready laid for us, and the repose upon the soft outspread carpets.
+All around us were encamped troops of Bedouins, the song of whose women
+resounded far away in the stillness of the night.
+
+[Illustration: KATYA.]
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD.
+
+
+We awoke in sunny Katya, a delicious oasis of the most beautiful and
+shady of palms! While the tents were being packed, that they might be
+sent on to Bir el Abd, I reconnoitred the immediate neighbourhood. In
+the middle of the zone of palms which encircle Katya like a girdle, is
+an elevation covered with fragments of tiles, between which grow
+numerous plants of _Sedum_, some of which are very thick-leaved. Near an
+old tamarisk stands a very peculiar ruin of turret-like appearance,
+called by the Arabs Burj--"castle." It is built of tiles and stones,
+horizontally and vertically placed, and has a spiral staircase inside.
+Not far off is a Koubba, containing a tomb, a defaced marble inscription
+in Arabian, and two ancient columns, from one of which a garland hangs.
+The palm-leaf stalks stuck in the ground outside indicate the sites of
+various graves. Scattered about are several enclosures formed with
+stalks of palm leaves, for the storage of ripe dates. The ground on
+which the ruin stands is picturesquely surrounded with palms, of which
+there are four principal groups, the total number of trees being perhaps
+1500, for which the resident Bedouins have to pay the Government 1600
+piastres a year.
+
+In the first group of palms near the Koubba is the telegraph station, or
+little house of the Arab watchmen who see to the maintenance of the
+telegraph posts and wires. Behind a small hillock south of this house
+there is another Koubba called Sheik el Mzeyen (see illustration), with
+a doorstep of apparently old marble stone and an ornamental cupola. It
+is surrounded by a great number of aloes, and contains a simple tomb.
+Here, too, is a burial-place, with the graves indicated either by two
+stones, a piece of palm stem, or a leaf stalk, and, in some cases, by a
+fragment of camel bone. From this Koubba, the palm plantations extend
+southward and form a kind of festoon with the Keteya group, which is
+protected on the south-west by a hill of white sand.
+
+[Illustration: SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA.]
+
+In the course of our ramble we met several Bedouins, who hailed us from
+a distance with a friendly Marhaba--"Welcome!" With one or two of
+them I exchanged a few words. Vives meanwhile shot a beautiful tufted
+cuckoo (_Cuculus glandarius_), a splendid bird, which habitually flies
+from the crown of one palm to that of another, and also a brace of
+shrikes, or butcher birds (_Lanius minor_), and some black and white
+chats (_Saxicola_).
+
+After resting awhile under the shady palms, we resumed our journey
+towards noon, passing on the way the large well of Katya. This well is
+the great feature of the beautiful oasis. It is of large dimensions,
+lined with tiles, and provided with a gutter or trench to conduct the
+water drawn to the different watering-places. There we found a caravan
+from Damascus, with a number of horses and mules in the charge of
+several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This herd, together with
+the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the background
+of gigantic palms, made up a strikingly harmonious and characteristic
+picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant aroma
+of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright
+rays of the morning sun.
+
+Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
+and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric of a
+vision. Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene
+were varied and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of
+which, after a long march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze
+rustled gently through the crowns of the trees high over our heads,
+while we lay on the ground gazing dreamily towards the yellowish horizon
+clearly defined against the deep blue sky. All around reigned perfect
+stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin women, laden with
+water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which probably were at
+some hours' distance.
+
+After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract,
+diversified only by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding
+some distance reached a gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill
+of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir el Abd. From there the road alternately
+rises and descends over bare sand ridges, and then passes down a
+declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to Bir el Aafin--"the stinking
+well," which contains but little water, and that almost putrid. In the
+distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins, who
+inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
+caravan with horses, asses, and mules, which some Kurds were taking to
+Cairo, the leader himself--a man advanced in years, wearing a green
+turban--riding at their head on a handsome bay.
+
+After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel
+el Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow.
+To our right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive
+Melleha, overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small
+quantity of rain-water. The action of this water on the soil produces an
+excellent salt, which the Bedouins collect after evaporation at the
+beginning of the summer. The smooth firm surface of the salty ground of
+the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and _Caucalis_ on either side, is a
+welcome change to both man and beast after so much laborious marching
+through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and green, is much
+relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw, with
+their Bedouin keepers.
+
+Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
+little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over
+another sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd--"the
+negro's well," where we were to stay the night. The place had also been
+chosen by some Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late
+when we arrived, I climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a
+sketch of the chain of the Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun
+(see illustration); and we afterwards went on to one of the cottages of
+the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to give us a friendly welcome.
+These men are Arabs, and live there with their families. They are
+provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to enable them
+to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at intervals all
+along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
+Katya, each man having a separate section to superintend. This
+arrangement is absolutely necessary in consequence of the damage
+occasioned by the violent winds which sometimes sweep over the desert.
+At Bir el Abd there are two men, each with a separate house, built of
+tiles, and a flat roof of the stalks of palm leaves. The lonesome and
+uneventful life of these men seems strange enough when one thinks of the
+important news constantly flashing over their heads, for the
+uninterrupted transmission of which they are chiefly responsible. We
+conversed with them for some little time, and gathered that they would
+be well contented with their lot but for their anxiety on account of
+the frequent danger to which their dwellings are exposed from the
+strong, sand-bearing wind, called Hampsin. Little indeed is requisite to
+satisfy the frugal and pious Arab. Bidding them farewell, we returned to
+the tents and retired to rest soon after our meal.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA.
+
+
+By six o'clock the next morning all were stirring, and at seven we
+struck our tents. Ascending from the hollow in which Bir el Abd is
+situated, we came to an acclivity known as El Homda Bir el Abd,
+overlooking the extended chain of Jebel el Magara in the distance. This
+was followed by a flat piece of ground, upon which little was growing
+beyond a number of plants of wormwood (_Artemisia monosperma_), and a
+kind of prickly gray-leaved shrub with blue blossoms. Our path then
+brought us to a Melleha with a few rushes, where the water was almost
+entirely dried up, leaving a bed of salt. A little later we passed
+across a plain of an almost uniform level, which appeared bounded to the
+right by the high hills in the distance. On the same side is situated
+Bir el Mabruka--"Well of the Mabruka," towards which we saw a party of
+Bedouins making their way. This plain is succeeded by hilly ground,
+distinguished as El Bassoul--"the onions," where white-blossomed broom
+with thin leaves is met with, and, in a slight declivity, a few bushes.
+From El Bassoul the road descends gently through a sandy tract, from
+which to the left we saw the great Lehochomu Melleha, with a mirage
+effect of such remarkable vividness as to make us think we had the open
+sea before us (see illustration). At this part of our journey we met two
+Bedouins, who greeted us with much ceremony. Here too, scattered about,
+we found specimens of _Caucalis_. Our course then lay through drearily
+uniform sandy ground, of somewhat broken configuration, and covered with
+bushy vegetation, where we passed a telegraph post bearing the notice
+that it was half-way between Bir el Abd and Bir el Magara. Here we
+overtook our camels, which, as usual, had preceded us; but we sent them
+on again, as we decided to pause for our midday meal. The wind being in
+the south, the air was terribly oppressive, and I felt some apprehension
+of the Hampsin. We accordingly pitched our tent in a hollow, overgrown
+with rushes, where we were to some extent protected from the scorching
+blasts. All our provisions were covered with the fine sand with which
+the air was filled. We were passed by two travelling companies of
+Bedouins, whom we had already seen on the road taking their scanty meal.
+An old woman came up to us to ask for a drop of water. Glad as we should
+have been to accommodate the poor creature, we dared not do so, lest we
+should have had a visit from the whole troop of Bedouins on the same
+errand, when our store would very soon have been exhausted. A youth of
+eighteen, to whom we gave a pipeful of tobacco, also begged for a little
+water, but we had to refuse him too.
+
+[Illustration: LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA.]
+
+Being anxious to get on, we did not rest more than an hour. Continuing
+to follow the telegraph posts, we came to a hilly, sandy district,
+called El Brej, a most fatiguing section of the route, and much dreaded
+by the Bedouins on account of the almost entire absence of water. To the
+right is a small hollow where, by digging to some depth, just enough may
+be found to moisten the sand, but it is so saline that it aggravates the
+thirst instead of appeasing it. As we went on, the wind increased in
+violence. We met a number of Bedouins greatly suffering from thirst and
+heat, who asked us for a little water. It was most heartrending to see
+young children toiling along, and to hear them entreating their parents
+for a draught. Even now I can fancy I hear their piteous lamentations,
+as one after the other they tried to drain a drop from the empty clay
+bottles. One family I remember particularly; it consisted of an old man
+and three little children, the two younger of whom were mounted upon an
+emaciated old donkey, while the eldest, a thin, sunburnt lad, walked
+with the old man behind. As the poor beast was struggling up a sandy
+slope, its two little riders holding tight on, with their wan faces
+fixed on the distant goal, it came down all at once with a deep groan.
+The poor children rolled off terrified on to the sand. I shall never
+forget the eyes of the old man as he came up panting. "Allah! Allah!" he
+cried, with a supplicating glance heavenward. He then sat on the sand,
+and took the children in his arms, leaving the ass to recover itself. We
+were obliged to go on, and could do nothing for him but hope that his
+prayer for help had been heard.
+
+A little further we passed a spot where we were told a wandering Hindoo
+had four years ago succumbed from exhaustion and thirst. As may be
+imagined, the account of his sufferings was anything but cheering.
+Shortly after, we came upon our kitchen-boy, a native of Cairo, who
+could go no further. All our people had become so worn out that they had
+gone forward on the baggage mules, leaving the poor lad, as the
+humblest among them, to make his way on foot through the deep sand as
+best he could. He had besought our moukri to allow him to ride, but in
+vain; every one cared only for himself. I ordered some bread, meat, and
+water to be given to him, and we then had to leave him to shift for
+himself. It was not until after midnight that he came into camp.
+
+We then descended slowly between roundish sand-ridges to the great
+Melleha, El Mestebak--"Melleha of the wall-seat," where the deep sand
+ceases. At a spot close to the entrance of the Melleha a little water
+may usually be obtained by digging, but our camel-drivers, after trying
+in vain to get some, had to content themselves with cooling their arms
+and feet with the moist sand. This Melleha is of great length,
+interrupted in one place only by a small saddle-shaped sand-hill, and is
+bounded on both sides by ridges of sand. It gradually slopes into a
+great flat plain with but one slight elevation in the centre, near which
+lies the grave of a soldier of the time of Ibrahim Pacha, marked by
+wooden pegs. This spot is also frequently used by the Bedouins as a
+burial-place. Beyond this part the Melleha increases in width, and the
+enclosing ridges become gradually lower, until a view is obtained
+over those to the right of the extended Jebel el Magara. Only at the
+time of heavy rainfalls does this Melleha contain much water. The sandy
+tract which follows contains a great deal of white-blossomed broom,
+which also grows further on in abundance.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA (TAKEN FROM EL BREJ).]
+
+[Illustration: KOUBBA EL MAGARA.]
+
+The wind having gradually abated, a cool afternoon breeze sprang up from
+the direction of the sea. "Riyeh Bahri! Riyeh Bahri" (sea breezes),
+cried our camel-drivers, delighted. It was not long before the Koubba of
+Magara was within sight. Cheered with the thought of the approaching end
+of our journey, we pushed briskly on, and at five o'clock reached the
+camp, which had been pitched close to Bir el Magara--"Well of the
+visit," in a hollow entirely surrounded by sand-hills, similar to that
+of Bir el Abd.
+
+Situated upon rising ground at a short distance from the spot is the
+half ruinous Koubba of the Sheik Suleiman, built about sixty years ago
+of fossiliferous limestone, in which shells of _Cardium edule_ are
+particularly prominent. On the side next to the sea is a pointed arch.
+In the interior is a simple tomb covered with a linen cloth, an
+inscription in the recess of the outer window, a green flag, and two
+white bannerets. There are two papers bearing inscriptions affixed to
+the wall, which is also painted in many places with red letters and
+several crosses.
+
+Not far from the Koubba is the cottage occupied by the telegraph people,
+natives of Cairo, who showed themselves very friendly, and gave us some
+coffee, which a handsome boy handed round. After staying some little
+time with them we returned to our tents, where we found a good dinner
+ready for us.
+
+At a very late hour, the kitchen-boy whom we had left on the road came
+into camp, accompanied by two Persian knife-grinders, with a young
+Dervish from Eastern Asia. The Dervish wore long hair, and was dressed
+in a garment entirely made up of patches of cloth of various colours.
+These people had travelled with our caravan for two days, each carrying
+the heavy grindstone in turns. It had often much amused us to watch the
+care of the young Dervish, despite his fatigue, not to part with his
+alms bag, attached to the end of a long staff, when taking the stone
+upon his strong shoulders.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH.
+
+
+At a quarter past seven the next morning, we took our departure from Bir
+el Magara and ascended the gently-rising ground by which it is enclosed.
+Leaving to our left a large Melleha, called El Berdovil, which at high
+tides is filled with sea water, we followed a smaller one to our right,
+and came into a sandy, undulating, shrubby, and generally uniform tract
+of ground, which, after many hours' ride, brought us to a valley or
+Melleha-bottom, called Garif el Jemel--"Garif of the camel," lying
+between ridges of steep hills. Here we found the whole landscape in all
+the beauty of the early year, with the Bedouins' herds grazing upon the
+fresh green grass, which was covered with primroses and other spring
+flowers. On ascending the ridge to the right we enjoyed a most extensive
+view. To the left lay the Melleha, the broad sea Bahr el Kebir, as the
+Bedouins call it, the invigorating breezes of which reached us, and the
+uniform plain, with the mountains of El Magara and El Halal. We lunched
+on the ridge, feasting our eyes once more upon the distant sea, which we
+had not seen for so long. A Bedouin came and sat by us without speaking
+a word. We gave him a piece of bread, which, I suppose, satisfied him,
+as he then left us and went down the hill.
+
+It was soon time for us, too, to descend into the valley and resume our
+course. Still following the telegraph posts through a uniformly
+undulating plain, overgrown with shrubs, we reached a long Melleha
+enclosed by low hills, beyond which are the so-called "steps" of Adam
+Abou Zeit, the hero of Arabian legend, which are kept marked in the
+moving sand by passing Bedouins. A heap of stones near indicates the
+spot where Abou Zeit is said to have slain a Berdovil. On the left is a
+ruined castle, built of shelly marlstone, which, according to Arabian
+tradition, once belonged to the Berdovil in question. Thus does the
+imagination of these children of the desert clothe even these desolate
+places of the earth with interest, and connect ruins of diverse origin
+with the heroes of their traditions. A step or two further are similar
+ruins, known as Berj el Hashish--"the grass tracts," alleged by the
+Arabs to be the remains of an old town. The great Melleha of Berdovil
+extends along the foot of these ruins, and attains a considerable width
+in the centre. We there saw a complete camel-skeleton, apparently of
+somewhat recent date, which our horses scented from a distance, and took
+care to keep a good way off in passing.
+
+On both sides of the road, which here runs along a small ridge (see
+illustration), we saw several herds of cattle and troops of Bedouins.
+Among them were two children trying in vain to recapture a stray camel.
+It was very amusing to watch them as they alternately employed stratagem
+and agility in order to effect their object.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH).]
+
+Going on we passed Nahle Abou Sheh--"the palms of Abou Sheh," and, in a
+declivity, several small palm groups. These, together with the
+asphodels, which literally whiten the ground, indicate the neighbourhood
+of the sea. The large picturesque group, Etmil et te Jaber, is named
+after a young man, belonging to a distinguished family, by whom they
+were planted. The valley, our course through which I have described, is
+of great length, and opens out widely on each side. It contains several
+groves of palms in most picturesque groups, three of the principal of
+which are situated in a small valley to the left.
+
+Beyond, the road leads, between roundish ridges of moving sand, through
+the most complete desert, utterly desolate and bare, with scarcely a
+bush to be seen. These ridges form a continuous line, with dales and
+hollows between them. There is nothing to disturb the sublime stillness
+of the scene. Not a creature is visible, and not a sound heard excepting
+that of the distant breakers.
+
+Still keeping to the telegraph posts, we soon came within sight of the
+castle of El Harish, the last outpost eastward of the Egyptian
+Government. As we advanced over ridges and then over heaps of ruins, the
+view of the castle became more and more distinct, and at length we could
+overlook the palm-wood towards the sea, the beauty and shade of which
+had been so frequently enlarged upon by the camel-drivers. There can
+indeed be no more attractive picture for the mind of an Arab to dwell
+upon, when toiling over shifting sands under a scorching sun, than that
+of a plantation of palms, with abundant supply of water, on the shores
+of an invigorating sea!
+
+[Illustration: WADI ABOU-SBEH.]
+
+As we approached El Harish, a row of men gathered outside the town wall.
+After saluting them we proceeded to our tents at the south-east end
+of the town. Having reached them we were congratulated by Abou Nabout
+upon having safely accomplished our journey across the desert.
+
+After dinner we were visited by some of the authorities, who were
+extremely cordial. As usual we offered them coffee and cigars. Their
+stay, however, was but short, as they rightly presumed that we needed
+repose.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+EL HARISH.
+
+
+El Harish is the town of the desert which forms the most advanced post
+of the Khedive in the direction of Turkish territory, and, as it
+possesses many remarkable features, is worthy of a detailed description.
+As the point of convergence of the caravan routes, the entire life of
+the place is bound up with the caravan traffic, carried on by the
+resident population with their camels; it is, in a word, a place of
+camel-keepers. It is situated at about two miles from the sea, on the
+outskirts of the desert, the daily advancing sands of which threaten in
+time to cover a considerable portion of the town, and indeed have
+already overwhelmed many houses in the south-west quarter of it.
+
+The climate is extremely salubrious. Snow is never to be seen; but there
+are frequent hailstorms and heavy falls of rain, particularly in
+February. The temperature is highest immediately after the Hampsin,
+that is, at the beginning of the summer, and the very hot season lasts
+four months. The strongest wind is the Hampsin, which prevails for fifty
+days, and is here particularly disagreeable from the quantity of sand
+which it brings.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARISH.]
+
+The population numbers 2800 souls, exclusive of the Bedouins living in
+the neighbourhood. With scarcely an exception, the people are
+Mussulmans, and extremely fanatical; some portion of them are of Turkish
+origin, but none speak Arabic. There are but eight Christians in the
+place--three of whom are women. The garrison consists of sixty soldiers,
+including ten artillery-men, commanded by the governor of the fortress,
+whose especial task it is to restrain the excesses of the Bedouin
+tribes. The latter have a great dread of the military, as immediately a
+Sheik lays himself open to suspicion he is arrested and despatched to
+Cairo. Their conduct has consequently of late been very circumspect,
+particularly since their last outbreak, which was severely punished.
+
+There are no rich people in Harish, the richest possessing at the most
+not more than twenty camels; many persons are, on the contrary, so poor
+as to be forced to procure their camels on credit. Should an animal
+come to grief under such circumstances, the poor debtor is a ruined man.
+Altogether there are 500 camels in the place--60 of which are for the
+use of the soldiers; also 60 hayin or dromedaries, one only of which is
+assigned to them. There is an almost incredible difference between the
+capabilities of the camel and the dromedary, as much as between those of
+the English draught-horse and race-horse. An idea of the extraordinary
+fleetness of dromedaries may be gathered from the fact that there are
+several in Harish who can run easily in one day from Harish to Kantara.
+A very serviceable animal, suitable either for draught purposes or for
+running, results from a cross between the dromedary and camel.
+
+There are but ten horses in Harish; but, on the other hand, no less than
+150 asses, of the black or black-and-white-spotted Bedouin race; about
+200 goats, 100 sheep, and 35 cows. The sheep and cows are mostly from
+Syria. Pigeons and fowls are largely kept, but only a few turkeys, and
+still fewer ducks. Dogs are also not numerous.
+
+The game of the district comprises quails (during the migratory season),
+hares, and gazelles. The last named are caught by the Bedouins when
+young, at some distance in the interior, but frequently die when their
+horns begin to grow. They are transported long distances, without
+injury, in a basket of palm leaves, the small feet being tucked up under
+the belly, and the head only peering out of the basket, which of course
+is firmly fastened with cord.
+
+Fish abound in the neighbouring sea, and are caught by moonlight, with a
+bell-shaped net only, draw-nets being not used here. In Harish itself
+there are not more than fifteen or twenty persons who follow fishery as
+a calling. There are, however, many fishermen engaged in the preparation
+of salt fish, who come over from Damietta and live behind the Berdovil.
+In the same way they fish the Melleha, referred to above, in which are a
+large number of mullet. The fishing-ground has been rented from the
+Government by an Arab, who is even thinking of setting up a boat.
+Hitherto the fishermen have always come here from Port Said, along the
+shore, on foot.
+
+The palm trees of Harish, of which there are about 6000, are the
+principal basis of the local product. No impost whatever is paid for
+them to the Government, the concession being presumably accorded to the
+population, in consideration of their being inhabitants of a frontier
+station. No wine is made from the palms of Harish, the sap being
+principally used for the preparation of sugar. The black and red dates
+are retained for home consumption, while the yellow, as also the Agua
+dates (pounded date cakes), are exported in sacks. The fruit of the
+place consists principally of figs and grapes, the latter being chiefly
+grown in the western portion of the district. For the most part they are
+white table grapes, but we heard that the under health officer of Harish
+was attempting to make wine from some of them. Melons are also
+extensively cultivated here, more particularly in Wadi, and are
+preserved for some time by hanging. The vegetables include tomatoes,
+garlic, onions, and carrots; barley, wheat, maize, and small sweet
+vetches are also grown, more or less.
+
+Industrial pursuits are almost entirely neglected. A few articles of
+clothing, etc., are made for actual home use, but nothing more. These
+comprise, for instance, winter jackets of sheepskins (made with the
+bare skin outside, the hair being worn next the body); camel's-hair
+sacks; close-fitting camel's-hair caps (a very warm and practical
+head-gear, and consequently worn by the military and officials under
+their fez); and black and striped cloaks of sheep's wool, such as are
+seen in Syria.
+
+The commerce of the place is insignificant, and what there is consists
+chiefly of a transit trade, for, being really little more than a large
+station of camel-keepers, Harish has no trade of its own. It has,
+therefore, much suffered from the construction of the Suez Canal, since
+which, almost the entire trade between the south of Syria and Egypt goes
+by water, leaving but a small portion for the once famous caravan route.
+From Harish itself no goods whatever are exported by land, excepting,
+occasionally, dates for Gaza. There are no boats at Harish, as the shore
+is bad and full of reefs. Corn and fruit often come by ship from Jaffa,
+and sometimes timber for building purposes, but this does not happen
+very often, as most of the timber required at Harish is brought from
+Wadi. Altogether, ships do not come more than fifteen or sixteen times
+in the year, when they are either laden as described, or simply
+ballasted, and return with cargoes of melons, dates, and Agua dates.
+Sometimes shipwrecks occur on these inhospitable coasts. As has been
+already mentioned, the postal service between Harish and the outer world
+is provided for by a weekly mail to Kantara, by means of a dromedary.
+
+I will now give some description of the place itself. Harish lies along
+the side of an undulating hill fronting the sea, at the foot of the
+large quadrangular castle, a substantial building of calcareous
+marlstone. The only entrance to the castle is by a great gate opening
+from the town, and, therefore, upon the side next the sea. On either
+side of the gate is a round tower, with a marble pillar--the capital of
+which is inverted--built into the stone. Above are five marble tablets
+with inscriptions. A sixth tablet stands below the loophole, from which
+the standard-bearer (whose grave will be mentioned presently) was killed
+by the French. From the lower inscription we learn that the castle is
+327 years old, and was built by the Sultan Suleiman. The upper tablets
+bear the name of the Sultan Selim. A gate with iron mountings leads into
+the T-shaped entrance-hall, in the centre of which is an oval cupola,
+and on either side slightly pointed arches. At the entrance is a
+circular arch, and a similar one at the opposite end of the hall, in
+which a lamp is suspended, and where there are three marble steps
+leading up to the mosque. This is a very simple edifice, covered by a
+flat roof of palm-leaf stalks, and containing two rows of four pointed
+arches, with four ancient marble pillars built into the stone. To the
+left of the Mihrab, which has two marble pillars, and is also
+distinguished by simplicity, is a mural inscription. The Mem Ber is of
+the same character, and is constructed of red and green painted wood.
+Four men are set apart for the service of the mosque, one only of whom
+is a priest.
+
+Passing out through a side-door to the left, we found, opposite to the
+Jama, an old Egyptian sarcophagus of black granite, now used as a water
+trough, covered within and without with very small hieroglyphics.
+
+The interior of the fortress has a very deserted air. We found there
+dilapidated clay houses for the soldiers, and, somewhat to the side, the
+divan of the governor, which consists of a hall with two circular
+arches, the interior containing low sofas covered with rich carpets.
+There we waited upon the governor, who, according to invariable custom,
+ordered coffee to be served. He then took us over the armoury, in which
+was a small field-piece for mounting on camels, and afterwards conducted
+us over the fortress. The entire castle, as already mentioned, forms a
+quadrangle, and has four hexagonal towers, with embrasures, and a few
+bronze cannons. A gallery in a ruinous condition runs round the entire
+length of the walls, with a parapet of some six feet in height and
+embrasures. The towers of the castle command an extensive view of the
+desert, with the distant mountain chains of El Halal and El Magara in
+the south-east, the magnificent palm plantation towards the sea, and the
+town of Harish itself spread out below.
+
+To the left hand of the castle gate, on passing out, is a small
+enclosure overgrown with shrubs, in which is the tomb, already referred
+to, of the Piraktar, or standard-bearer, who was killed by the French in
+the time of Napoleon. It is of simple clay, ornamented at the corners
+with ancient pillars.
+
+Altogether, El Harish has a poverty-stricken appearance, with rugged
+uneven streets, formed merely of a sandy earth. Gray is the prevailing
+hue, relieved only in a few places by the green of one of the loftier
+palm trees projecting above the buildings. These are of clay and
+straw,--the clay tiles being cemented with sand and clay; the roofs are
+flat and very roughly finished. Most of the houses have small courtyards
+communicated with by rough sliding doors. It is very seldom that one
+sees curved arches over these; they are almost invariably quadrangular,
+with a wooden bar as head piece. To many of the doors camels' skulls
+have been attached by the occupiers, who for the most part are
+camel-keepers, as a protection against evil spirits. Over the entrance
+doors large branches of the tamarisk are frequently hung for a shade.
+These plain courtyards, which contain nothing but a few indispensable
+things, are, as it were, the private domain of the inhabitants, in which
+they often keep their cattle. They rarely communicate with each other,
+and of course are closed to strangers, unless accompanied by the
+proprietor. The chattels they usually contain are a few large clay
+water-pitchers, clay vessels in the form of casks, for the storage of
+grain, which, after being filled from the top, are closed and the grain
+afterwards drawn off as required from an opening in the bottom; a
+bell-shaped poultry-coop made of clay, with a lid, which is kept down by
+a stone when necessary; pigeon-holes either in the clay wall round the
+yard, or in the wall of the house itself; and small baking ovens with
+side-door and place under for fire. In the kitchens, too, which are as a
+rule wretched holes, there are small baking ovens with flat tops, such
+as are common throughout Egypt. The houses of the more prosperous
+inhabitants are not unfrequently provided with a raised space, railed on
+both sides, and sometimes latticed in front, which is fitted with
+receptacles for jars and other domestic articles.
+
+Ancient columns and pedestals are sometimes built into the houses. There
+are usually several wooden doors between these and the courtyards, which
+also serve as windows. Light is also provided for in many rooms by small
+wood lattices or jalousies, firmly built into the wall, the lattices
+often consisting of nothing but palm-leaf stalks stuck into the clay
+wall. When there is an upper story, which is rarely the case, it is
+approached from the courtyard by a staircase, usually dilapidated, with
+stairs of shelly marlstone. The stairs and floors of the interior, when
+there are any, are of clay. The roofs are formed with cross beams
+connected by palm-leaf stalks and pegs, which are then covered with palm
+leaves, and clay finally thrown over the whole. Those provided with an
+upper story live there in the summer, as it usually contains several
+latticed windows, and is consequently cooler. Most of the houses have a
+partition for sheep and goats.
+
+[Illustration: THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH.]
+
+There is but little in the whole town worthy of a visit. East of the
+fortress is the simple quadrangular tomb of Mahomet el Domiats, which
+bears a Greek inscription. Facing this is a house of refuge for
+casual passers-by, with a subterranean cistern, still containing water.
+Upon a small uneven piece of ground, called Ard Sheik el Kashif, is a
+Kittabia, or children's school, a roughly built house like the rest,
+where the lively youngsters assemble to be taught by their half blind
+master.
+
+About the centre of the town is situated the little Souk or bazaar, with
+a number of miserable booths (see illustration), which I searched in
+vain for specimens of native industry. While engaged on my sketch I had
+an opportunity of seeing some old coins found in the neighbourhood.
+
+The cemetery is situated beyond a piece of land fenced with a prickly
+hedge, at a short distance from which there is a very old Nebke tree. It
+has a most neglected aspect. There are a large number of tombs in the
+form of steps, and here and there various kinds of pedestals, some of
+which are fluted. It also contains the roughly constructed Koubba of the
+Sheik Ghebara, with a pyramidical cupola coated with clay.
+
+On the opposite or east side of the cemetery there is a slight rise in
+the ground affording a good view of the entire place, as well as of the
+large palm wood towards the sea, and the extensive plain planted with
+fig trees between the dunes of the coast and the cemetery. While I was
+sketching there, an old man approached and looked at the grave of some
+children, which no doubt were his own. He then looked up and enquired
+whether I was a father, and on my replying in the negative, ejaculated
+in a tone of the deepest sympathy, "Poor man!" An instance, this, of the
+high value set by these people upon the blessings of family life. "But,"
+he added after a pause, "we must submit to God's will."
+
+Here and there we remarked tombs in a better condition, with aloes
+planted around, and one or two that were even whitewashed. Many
+"Haddayas" (_Milvus ater_, or black kite) and kestrels (_Falco
+tinnunculus_) were flying about this deserted burial-place, which one
+might almost have fancied to be the spirits of the departed.
+
+Westward of the cemetery and below the town is a kind of vale or
+declivity planted with tamarisks and fig trees, and containing three
+wells provided with handspikes. Numbers of women and children with black
+jugs from Gaza go there to draw water, giving, as may be imagined, great
+life and animation to the scene. The water, like that of all the wells
+of the place, is somewhat saline. At Wadi the water is perfectly fresh.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARISH (VIEW ON THE NORTHERN SIDE).]
+
+Proceeding still in a westerly direction, we came to the telegraph
+posts and the beginning of the route leading through the desert, which
+now lay unrolled before us. This road is the same by which we came to El
+Harish. Ruins of old buildings, asserted by the inhabitants to date from
+the time of the crusades, strewed the ground in every direction. In some
+cases the foundations might be clearly traced. It is said that old coins
+are still found now and then under the ruins. From the numerous aloes
+growing, it is perhaps to be inferred that graves once existed at this
+spot. A good view is obtained there of the place and its surroundings,
+including the sea and the verdant edge of the palm wood near it.
+
+The lazaretto is a wretched building, with a flagstaff and two houses
+projecting on the two sides. The entrance is from the side fronting the
+road towards Syria. In the rear is a yard, containing a small garden but
+no supply of water, which has therefore to be brought from the Wadi. The
+houses are of the same character as those of El Harish generally, but
+slightly more European in style. In the larger lives the deputy
+commissioner, the smaller being occupied by his adjutant, who is a
+remarkable example of the mixture of races so common in this country.
+His father was a Dalmatian, whose family came from Sebenico, and he
+himself was born in Egypt of a Nubian mother, being therefore almost a
+mulatto. He was educated in Dalmatia, and is a Christian.
+
+The quarantine processes do not take place in the building, but are
+performed in tents, which are kept in readiness on the premises, and
+erected as occasion requires.
+
+From the lazaretto we proceeded in the afternoon towards the sea, which
+is beyond the beautiful palm plantations, and not more than
+half-an-hour's ride from El Harish. Our path first brought us to the
+Koubba of Nebi Gasser (see illustration). This is a quiet burial-place
+planted round with dark green tamarisks, strongly contrasting with the
+yellow sands, which again are well set off by the background of sea and
+sky. The repose and peace of this little spot are intensified by the
+neighbourhood of the vast expanses of desert and sea, which here meet as
+though to rival each other.
+
+[Illustration: KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER.]
+
+Upon the hill of the Koubba, fragments of old masonry lie scattered
+about. In the interior of the somewhat large building, the door of which
+bears an Arabian inscription, is a conical cupola upon four roughly
+constructed arches. To the right, on entering, is the tomb of Nebi
+Gasser, over which is a canopy of green cloth upon a framework of
+wood. To the left is that of one of his followers. There are in the
+sand, on the land side, many traces of graves, which may be known by the
+aloes growing near. In many places a piece of marble column or of stone
+still projects, but it cannot be long before all such vestiges disappear
+under the ever advancing sands. At the side of the Koubba is an old
+tamarisk of the thick-leaved sort, called by the people Atel, those with
+the thin leaves, of which there are many examples here, being known as
+Tarfa.
+
+Going eastward from the Koubba of Nebi Gasser, we soon reached the broad
+Wadi, which still brings water down from the hills. It may be crossed
+either close to the sea-shore, or at a shallower spot not far distant.
+To the left of the Wadi are many vegetable gardens, with numerous wells.
+The large palm wood lies to the right of the Wadi, and stretches down
+nearly to the sea. The trees generally are of slender dimensions, but of
+gigantic height. The scene altogether is one calculated powerfully to
+stimulate the imagination. The solemn stillness which prevails it is
+impossible to describe. The regular sound of the distant breakers,
+mingled with the gentle whisperings of the breeze through the palms; the
+flights of kites floating aimlessly in the air; the peculiar character
+of the shade of the palm, through the leafy crowns of which the light
+penetrates in trembling waves; the dark green tints of the foliage
+against the transparently blue Egyptian sky;--all combine to produce an
+effect which must be experienced to be realised.
+
+The different groups of the palm wood are interspersed with pieces of
+meadow land, watered by seven wells, and upon which are ten mean huts
+occupied by Arab herdsmen. The wood stretches for some distance over the
+broad surface of the Wadi, which, when swollen, frequently uproots
+many trees. In the entire Wadi there are some thirty fresh-water wells
+for the supply of the vegetable gardens, where onions, tomatoes, melons,
+etc., are grown. It contains, too, numerous young palm groves of recent
+plantation. Immediately beyond the point to which irrigation extends,
+the barren desert again commences.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED.
+
+
+But at length the time came to take leave of El Harish and its friendly
+inhabitants. Early on the morning of our departure the governor and all
+our acquaintances came once more to greet us, and, on our moving away
+eastward, stood until we were out of sight, making signs of farewell and
+other demonstrations of goodwill. The governor strongly counselled us
+not to stop until we reached Sheik el Zvoyed, as he judged the road
+between El Harish and that place to be unsafe for encampment, and also
+furnished us with an attendant, named Ramadan, a powerfully built man,
+with sunburnt features, as a guard in case of our meeting with hostile
+Bedouins. Our escort, who was mounted upon a cross-bred camel, and armed
+with a long sword and Arabian firearms, proved to be a most obliging and
+serviceable companion.
+
+Soon after quitting El Harish we advanced upward into the broad clayey
+bed of the Wadi, upon the opposite bank of which we found the
+burial-place of the Bedouins, containing several tombs and a large
+number of aloes. Then we reached the opposite side of the Wadi, of
+cliff-like character, the clay of which is much worn away by the water.
+
+A guardhouse is situated there, occupied by three soldiers, who demanded
+from us certificates of health. On our telling them that everything had
+been arranged at El Harish, and that we had but just left there, we were
+allowed to proceed without further question.
+
+Beyond the guardhouse the road passes through a bare plain, and then
+rises for some distance over sandy hills into undulating ground, where
+the hill ridges run parallel to the sea. We observed a number of
+asphodels growing, and here and there patches of corn land. As we
+advanced further the vegetation became thicker and thicker, the bare
+sand-hills continuing on our left only. We saw many Bedouins at work on
+the land--of which many extensive tracts are under cultivation--with no
+other implements than ordinary hoes and a one-horse "camel." In many
+places there grows an inferior kind of grass, called Hafour, which,
+however, makes excellent pasturage. We saw a good number of goats and
+sheep about, evidently in a thriving condition.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARROUBA.]
+
+After passing through the large fruitful valleys of Wadi el Geradi
+(valley of the earth), and Wadi el Harrouba (valley of the St. John's
+bread--the Locust or Carob tree), we ascended a hill from which there is
+an extensive view (see illustration). From there the road runs through a
+short valley past some cultivated tracts, the land being elsewhere
+overgrown with _Artemisia monosperma_. To the right a tree may be
+observed, which marks the scene of a terrible battle that took place
+fifteen years ago between the Tarabin Bedouins from Gaza and the Zowarka
+Bedouins from El Harish.
+
+We found the land improve as we went on, and in many places observed
+well-cultivated fields. Some attempts, moreover, had been made to define
+and improve the road by the construction of ditches on each side.
+Continuing to follow the telegraph posts, we came, after some distance,
+to rising ground, from which we had a wide view of the almost flat
+valley, which was covered with the above-named shrubs. In the distance,
+to the left of the valley, we could see, along the borders of an utter
+desert, the palms and the Koubba of Sheik el Zvoyed.
+
+At the foot of the partially cultivated hill to the left, is a large
+Melleha filled with rain-water, and bounded on the other side by bare
+sand-hills, in the midst of which are three beautiful palm groups. For a
+full view of this characteristic picture, rendered remarkably effective
+by the solitude of the scene, it is necessary to cross the hill. On the
+east side the Melleha is shallow, and ends in marshy ground, overgrown
+with rushes, beyond which is a plain extending to the desert. So
+exhilarated were our horses by the taste of the green herbage, of which
+they had so long been deprived, that many got away from us and galloped
+wildly across the Melleha. It took us nearly an hour to secure them,
+which we ultimately did by hemming them in between the water and
+ourselves. Flights of kites passed over our heads, probably attracted by
+some carcass not far distant.
+
+From the Melleha we soon reached Sheik el Zvoyed, where we found to our
+delight the tents already pitched upon the emerald green sward.
+
+[Illustration: MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED.]
+
+We were met in a friendly way by the man in charge of the telegraph
+posts of the district; and several Bedouins, attracted either by
+curiosity or the hope of a "backshish" in some shape or other, came
+and seated themselves around us in picturesque groups. After remaining a
+short time longer, to enable me to complete a sketch of this bright
+little spot (see illustration), we returned to our tents, which we were
+very glad to reach after our long ride.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS.
+
+
+The meadows lay smiling in the morning sun, and their fresh pasture
+appeared greatly to strengthen and invigorate our animals. While the
+packing was being done I went to take a look round Sheik el Zvoyed. The
+first thing I came to was the house, built of clay and straw, similar to
+that described at El Harish, where the man lives who keeps the telegraph
+posts and wires in working order. Attached to it is a small courtyard,
+in the peaceable possession of fowls, turkeys, pigeons, and even ducks.
+Not far off is a smaller house, where oil and various wares from Gaza
+are sold for the benefit of the neighbouring Bedouins, who all belong to
+the Zowarkas. Behind the houses are a number of slender palms, and at a
+short distance lies the burial-ground, containing a few graves, with
+numerous aloes growing between them. In the centre stands the Koubba
+of Sheik el Zvoyed, built of square stones, with an inscription in
+Arabic over the door. The interior of the Koubba is cupola-shaped, and
+it contains a tomb covered with green cloth stretched over a wooden
+frame.
+
+[Illustration: OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED.]
+
+Water is procurable from the sand-hills somewhat to the west behind the
+houses, not saline, but not of good flavour. The Bedouins of the
+neighbourhood go there with their donkeys to draw it in black Gaza jars.
+Both men and boys may be constantly seen threading their way along the
+sandy path; many of the boys have fine regular features, with sparkling
+eyes, but of that melancholy expression so peculiar to Bedouin children.
+In many parts of the country surrounding Sheik el Zvoyed, ruins and
+heaps of stones are to be met with, telling of places formerly
+inhabited.
+
+On returning to the camp I found the packing completed, and after
+shaking hands with the telegraph man we at once continued our journey.
+At first we passed through meadows, partially bordered with trees, and
+across sandy hills, and then descended a grassy slope called Lazga, from
+which we surveyed the extensive plain before us, with the sandy hills on
+the left projecting into the bright green surface like islets in the sea
+(see sketch). To the right are two large "Sidr" trees called Sager el
+Emir (the tree of the Emir) or Magrunte.[3] In the gently undulating
+plain there are many daffodils and blue-flowering Iris. The pretty
+meadows then alternated with barley fields, where numerous birds, such
+as larks, large buntings, and quails, are constantly to be seen. From a
+slight elevation we could overlook the whole of the plain stretching
+away beneath us, and in the distance we saw three Bedouin tents, and
+some cows grazing on the rich meadow land. We then passed the road
+leading to Arfeh, about two miles distant, where good water is to be had
+in the very middle of the sand.
+
+[Footnote 3: Large specimens of _Zizyphus Spina-Christi_, Willdenow,
+called "Sidr" in Egypt, where its fruit is called "Nabak." In Palestine,
+the tree is named "Doom," and the fruit "Sidr." Magrunte or Magroonât
+(in Syriac "Madjroonât") means "the female neighbours."]
+
+Fragments of gray granite pillars, still standing, are here to be met
+with about the road, the fields, and the sand, and we saw one lying on
+the ground half buried. On one side stands a "Sidr" tree (see sketch),
+and to the right in the other hollow of the valley is another. The
+pillars are the remains of an ancient temple, Raphia, and are of special
+importance in the eyes of the Arabs, who call them Rafah, as they mark
+the boundary between Egypt and Syria.
+
+[Illustration: SAGER EL EMIR.]
+
+[Illustration: RAFAH COLUMNS.]
+
+We took our midday meal close to the pillars, being now within the Holy
+Land, and after a short rest resumed our journey. Leaving a green
+sloping valley on the left, and passing sandy hills, we went over gently
+undulating grass-land, and saw before us the township of Benishaela,
+situated on the flat crest of a hill. Numerous cows grazing, and flocks
+of kites soaring in the air, enlivened the otherwise monotonous
+landscape.
+
+But here the aspect of the country suddenly changed, and we saw that we
+had entered the Land of Promise. Mud walls, with thorn bushes and
+prickly pears, enclosed the fields, in which almonds, apricots, and
+figs, sycamores, locust, and "Sidr" trees, vied with each other in a
+luxuriance all the more cheering to the eyes of the traveller from the
+barren desert. Passing several small houses built of clay, straw, and
+stones, we reached at three o'clock Khanyunis, the picturesque Kala of
+which seemed to invite our approach. We found that our camps had been
+pitched opposite to it in a field surrounded by opuntias.
+
+The governor Chaker Effendi, whose family were still in El Halil
+(Hebron), where he formerly resided, came to welcome us. He was very
+friendly, and ordered our camp to be guarded by three cavalry and four
+infantry soldiers, who relieved each other every two hours. There were
+one or two negroes amongst them, but the greater number were slim and
+muscular Arabs, and some of them remarkably handsome men. The governor
+personally conducted us afterwards over the Kala. Before describing
+this, however, I must give the reader some general account of
+Khanyunis.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+KHANYUNIS.
+
+
+Khanyunis (or Khan Yunas) is the furthest Syrian place in the direction
+of Egypt, and in some respects the last outpost of the immediate
+authority of the Porte, as El Harish is of that of the Khedive. Between
+the two lies that desert tract in which the Rafah pillars stand,
+indicating the supposed boundary between the two countries. The Bedouin,
+however, wanders at will over the waste land, caring little whether he
+happens to be in Egypt or Syria.
+
+As in El Harish, the Kala constitutes the castle of the place, and is at
+the same time the nucleus around which the other buildings have
+gradually clustered.
+
+Khanyunis is now a pleasant village, but does not at present contain
+more than 1000 inhabitants. Formerly the population was larger, having
+reached 1800, but it has decreased owing to the frequent inroads of the
+Tarabin Bedouins, who only three years ago set fire to the crops of the
+poor villagers. All the Bedouins who haunt the neighbourhood are
+Tarabins. They are generally well provided with horses and asses, some
+of the former being fine animals, of great powers of endurance. Since
+Khanyunis has been supplied with a stronger garrison, they are kept in
+check, and the state of affairs is consequently much improved. There are
+now fifty foot and fifty horse soldiers, almost exclusively sons of the
+desert, who look quite picturesque with their Koufi as head-dress, and
+Arabian costume. They are fine muscular fellows, and extremely courteous
+in manner. The villagers wear the usual South Syrian costume, and are of
+fairly strong build. Some of the boys have two ringlets hanging at the
+sides of their heads,--a fashion not uncommon among the Bedouins. There
+are two schools for the instruction of youth, and, judging from the fact
+that nearly every one can read, they must be well attended.
+
+[Illustration: KALA OF KHANYUNIS.]
+
+The interior of the village presents but a poor appearance, the streets
+being dirty and disfigured by numerous trenches for carrying off the
+rain. The houses, between which lofty palms raise their towering heads,
+are built of mud and stone. The inferior quality of stone consists of
+shell detritus and shale conglomerate from the neighbouring
+sea-shore, and the better material is brought from different ruins,
+sometimes from a distance of ten to twelve hours' journey. The roofs of
+the houses are flat, and over many of the entrances, which have wooden
+lintels, a piece of bone is fixed as a protection against the influence
+of the Evil eye. For the better defence of the inhabitants against the
+incursions of the Bedouins, the houses have loopholes; ventilation is
+provided for by a number of round holes arranged either in rows or
+tasteful designs. As has been said, the principal feature of Khanyunis
+is its Kala (see sketch), which abuts on a broad place or square, the
+left side of which still shows traces of a former enclosure. On either
+side of the entrance is a hall, with a fragment of a pedestal. That on
+the left contains the modest dwelling of the governor, who lives quite
+alone here, with but one servant. The Kala, which is 850 years old, once
+formed a square, at the corners of which were circular towers, with oval
+cupolas, and three embrasures. The two front towers only now remain, the
+back wall having been quite destroyed, and the once enclosed square is
+now filled with a wild confusion of wretched houses, half in ruins,
+which serve the soldiers as a place of habitation. In the centre of the
+front side is a gate with loopholes within the pointed arch, above
+which is a Moorish frieze crowned with lilies. On both sides of the
+gate, and on the broad front wall, are pyramidical battlements with
+tapering ends. Inside the archway is an inscription of Sultan Bargut of
+Cairo, and either side is ornamented with a lion, rudely sculptured in
+relief. Arabic inscriptions are cut in the walls on both sides of the
+gate, and in the gateway itself; no regard having been paid to keeping
+within the stone rows. To the right of the gate, within the Kala, rises
+the octagonal minaret of the mosque, from which is obtained a fine view
+of the ruinous interior, with its labyrinth of dilapidated houses, as
+well as of the whole village. From here four roads can be seen diverging
+from Khanyunis, namely the El Harish road, the road leading to Suez
+_viâ_ Akaba, the Benishaela road, and lastly, the Gaza road. At the
+entrances to these roads are grouped the houses of the village. Raising
+our eyes towards the horizon we saw the yellow sand-hills which bound
+the plantations towards the sea, strikingly contrasting with the bright
+green trees, and on the other side the rich verdant plain stretching
+away towards Gaza, which may be discerned in the distance. The numerous
+prickly-pear bushes surrounding the village on the Gaza side are a
+conspicuous feature in the landscape.
+
+We now descended to complete our inspection of the Kala. In the interior
+the mosque, with its oval dome, has almost gone to ruin; but the fine
+though simple marble pulpit still stands in good preservation. In the
+midst of the ruins, which have a somewhat picturesque appearance, is a
+house in a very dangerous condition, in consequence of a considerable
+portion of the mosque having fallen on it a short time since.
+Notwithstanding this, however, the people are heedless enough to
+continue occupying it. Only a few steps' distance a lofty palm was
+recently blown down by a violent storm. Thus the works both of man and
+nature meet with a common destruction, the inhabitants not thinking it
+worth while to do the least in the way of repair, or to make the
+slightest attempt to protect themselves against impending danger.
+Lethargy and nonchalance are the leading characteristics of Eastern
+nations, and a certain evidence of the gradual decay of their religion
+and race.
+
+There is another mosque in the village opposite the Kala, but without a
+minaret. From its exterior it is scarcely to be recognised as a Jama.
+Near one of the ruined towers of the Kala's outer enclosure, and at the
+corner of a house on the road to Gaza, stand ancient pedestals, serving
+as seats for the Mayor, Sheik el Beled.
+
+The Souk or Bazaar of Khanyunis is formed by two streets lined with
+wretched Turkish shops, with mud or clay projections for seats. The
+doors are made to flap upward, but they close imperfectly; the roofs
+are, as usual, made of the Artemisia shrub. The goods exposed in these
+shops come for the most part from Gaza and Jaffa; but the caps of
+camel's hair and of cotton, as well as the white and black Syrian
+mantles, are made by the villagers themselves. At the end of the
+village, near the Souk, and on the road to El Harish, is the second
+public well, about 18 fathoms deep, and built entirely of ancient marble
+fragments. At the side is a cistern with cattle-troughs of the same
+material, which evidently belongs to a more flourishing period than the
+present. Somewhat further on, behind a slight hollow with stagnant water
+and a few palm trees, in the Akaba and Suez road, is the burial-ground,
+containing a few whitewashed tombs of step-like construction. At the
+opposite end of the village, where the road is open to the surrounding
+country, we came upon a hollow with embankments, and then took the road
+leading to Benishaela.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Benishaela there are many gardens, which bear
+witness to the extreme fertility of the soil; though unfortunately there
+is not a single well among them. Almonds and apricots are the chief
+productions, and the raised ground enclosing them is often covered with
+small branches of the thorny "Sidr." Near the village we saw several
+"Sidr" trees, as well as tamarisks (Atel) and sycamores. The most
+numerous class are the thorny Opuntias, which grow round some of the
+gardens in rank luxuriance.
+
+The people of Khanyunis do not live exclusively from the cultivation of
+the ground; they are also largely engaged in cattle-breeding, and a
+great many cows are to be seen in the neighbourhood. Of camels there are
+but few; horses, on the other hand, are numerous. I also saw four
+greyhounds of the Syrian breed. As is well known, it is Richard Coeur
+de Lion to whom is ascribed the introduction into the Holy Land of the
+greyhound, which, crossing with the ordinary street dog, originated the
+above-mentioned breed. These dogs were not of pure blood; they were
+spotted white and yellow, with shaggy hair and blue stripes, studded
+with cowries, on their haunches. They are used for hunting gazelles,
+which are frequently caught alive when very young. One of these graceful
+creatures was brought to us and offered for a sum equal to six
+shillings; it was very tame, and we carried it for some distance. But at
+length it died, in consequence, as was said, of having eaten bread,
+which, according to Abou Nabout's assertion, is very unwholesome for
+these animals. The more probable cause was the trying journey it made in
+a basket on a camel's back. There are only a few street dogs in
+Khanyunis; but, as a compensation, any quantity of kites, kestrels, and
+crows, which alight in hundreds on the loftier sidr or sycamore trees in
+the neighbourhood, and may often be seen hovering over the village on
+the look-out for prey and carrion.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA.
+
+
+The broad sandy road from Khanyunis to Gaza passes for some distance
+through gardens with Opuntia hedges, and embankments crowned with thorn
+bushes. To the left, the gardens extend to sandy hills; and to the right
+as far as Benishaela, a village standing on an elongated hill, and
+containing 500 inhabitants. Behind this is another village called
+Abansan, with many cultivated tracts in the neighbourhood. On the
+uniform hill-range on which Benishaela is situated, and which bounds the
+valley on the land side, is the grave of Sheik Mohammed, at the foot of
+an old tree, and adjoining a small house which serves as the Koubba. To
+the right are the tents of the Bedouins, who are numerous here, and are
+the sole proprietors of the rich meadow lands.
+
+After keeping for some distance to the telegraph posts across the sand,
+we again passed through meadows, and then reached the dry sandy bed of
+a brook called Wadi Selga, bordered on the left by earth banks and on
+the right by meadows. After heavy rainfalls the stream of this brook
+extends from the mountains to the sea.
+
+On the left hand, about half-an-hour's ride from the main road, is the
+village of Der el Belah (enclosure of date-trees), the only one we met
+with before reaching Gaza. It lies in a valley, on a Melleha, which is
+only separated from the sea by a rather low shore, and bounded at the
+lower end by sand and clay hills. The village is recognised from a
+distance by the numerous slender palm trees, which give it a
+particularly charming and picturesque appearance. It contains about 100
+inhabitants, and consists of a few ruinous houses, the mud roofs of
+which are covered with grass. Between the buildings are cultivated
+pieces of ground, fenced with mud walls. Here and there we met with
+fragments of ancient pillars. There is also a rudely-built and
+dilapidated tower, tapering upward, and provided with loopholes, which
+is occasionally occupied by soldiers. To the north of the hamlet there
+is another Melleha, enclosed by beautiful groups of palms, and on the
+seaside by sandy hills. Not far from this a direct road leads from Der
+el Belah to Gaza, but we wished to follow the main road, and
+therefore crossed the hills behind Der el Belah, over green meadows,
+where we saw plenty of daffodils and squills. From the top of the hills
+we had a view of the luxuriant meadows of the valley, where many cows of
+the small South Syrian breed were grazing, and in which we observed an
+old "Sidr" tree, called El Jemeter, near which there are said to be some
+ruins. On the other side we had before us the wide sea, separated from
+the meadows by sand-hills only, on which is a group of trees called Em
+Maharnes.
+
+[Illustration: NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA.]
+
+Having reached the road, we continued to advance across the plain, where
+we met with numerous tents of Tarabin Bedouins and several head of
+cattle. We remained but a short time for breakfast on the open meadow
+land, being anxious to get to Gaza. Soon after we came to the dry sandy
+bed of the Wadi Gaza, and, climbing the low hills lying behind it, we
+could see in the distance the minarets and palms of Gaza, the sight of
+which cheered the last steps of our journey. The town is situated to the
+right, commanded by the Mountar Hill, so called from the Sheik who is
+buried there. This hill is the principal feature in the landscape.
+Leaving to the left the path which we have mentioned as joining the
+main road from Der el Belah, we followed the sandy path along the
+telegraph posts. We then passed through fields and gardens fenced by
+thorny Opuntias, and planted with almonds, figs, olives, sycamores, and
+a few tamarisks, and finally reached the Quarantine Building of Gaza by
+half-past two o'clock.
+
+Here we had to take leave of our camel-drivers; and not without regret
+did I grasp the hand of honest old Daud, who had accompanied me the
+whole distance from El Kantara.
+
+All our superfluous luggage was here disposed of, for we were now in the
+Holy Land, the land of Plenty and Wealth. After a few days' rest in Gaza
+we started again with our horses and mules to make for the third time
+the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA.]
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, _Edinburgh_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and
+Syria, by Ludwig Salvator
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+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Caravan Route, by Ludwig Salvator.
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+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria, by 
+Ludwig Salvator
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria
+
+Author: Ludwig Salvator
+
+Translator: Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26705]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="frontis" id="frontis"></a>
+<img src="images/i004.jpg" width="600" height="362" alt="JEBEL EL MAGARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JEBEL EL MAGARA.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<h1>THE CARAVAN ROUTE</h1>
+
+<h3>BETWEEN</h3>
+
+<h2>EGYPT AND SYRIA</h2>
+
+
+   <h4>TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN</h4>
+
+   <div class="figcenter" style="width: 136px;">
+<img src="images/i005.jpg" width="136" height="150" alt="" title="publisher glyph" />
+</div>
+
+   <h4>WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR</h4>
+
+   <p class="center">London<br />
+
+   CHATTO &amp; WINDUS, PICCADILLY<br />
+
+   1881<br /><br />
+
+   <i>All rights reserved.</i></p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE_TO_THE_TRANSLATION" id="PREFACE_TO_THE_TRANSLATION"></a>PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig
+Salvator of Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.</p>
+
+<p>By his numerous travels and scientific labours, the name of this Prince
+has become well known and highly appreciated among the geographers of
+all nations; and only a short time ago His Imperial Highness was elected
+an honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society, of whom there are
+but eight others, in a total list of some 3500 Fellows.</p>
+
+<p>His works of travel&mdash;comprising parts of America, Africa, and the
+Mediterranean coasts&mdash;have also attracted so much attention, that their
+translation into the English language seemed to be justified.</p>
+
+<p>The list of these works, together with some details regarding the life
+of their illustrious author, appeared in the translator's introduction
+to the first work published in English;<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and in referring to it the
+translator of the present volume confidently expects a continuation of
+the friendly reception accorded to "Levkos&igrave;a, the Capital of Cyprus."</p>
+
+<p class="author">
+CHEVALIER DE HESSE-WARTEGG.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">German Athen&aelig;um Club</span>,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;"><i>October 1881</i>.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Once more I had traced my way to Egypt to pass the winter there. Like
+every European who makes a lengthened sojourn in that ancient but
+renewed land, I was led to recall the great engineering and other
+achievements accomplished within our own time, and also to consider
+future projects of development for which the country seems to present so
+wide a scope. A great deal has been heard of late on the subject of
+improved communication between Egypt and Southern Syria. Proposals for
+the construction of a new harbour at Jaffa, for a railway through the
+valley of the Jordan, and for harbour works at Beyrout, exercised my
+mind in succession; and during my frequent walks in the beautiful
+Esbekieh my thoughts were more particularly occupied with the overland
+route between Syria and Egypt. Since the wanderings of the Israelites
+through the desert, and the flight of the child Jesus, of how many great
+events have these countries been the scenes, and what various
+recollections are awakened by their names!</p>
+
+<p>Former travels had rendered me familiar with both Egypt and Syria, as
+well as with the different lines of communication between them,
+excepting the old caravan route over Wadi el Harish, the ancient Torrens
+Egyptii. Bearing in mind the bad harbours and dangerous anchorages of
+Southern Palestine, I speculated upon the feasibility of a railway
+connection round the coast, and, in view of that object, resolved
+personally to examine the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Many obstacles, however, presented themselves to the execution of my
+intention. One of these arose from the circumstance that, since the
+opening of the Suez Canal, the greater part of the traffic between Syria
+and Egypt is carried on by the short water route <i>vi&acirc;</i> Jaffa and Port
+Said, in consequence of which the old highway, formerly so frequented by
+caravans, travellers, and pilgrims, is now deserted and forgotten. Even
+the cattle-dealers now prefer to send their stock by steamer from the
+great export harbour of Jaffa to Alexandria, so that only a few
+camel-drivers are to be met with on the once favourite route. I
+therefore found it more expedient to order a caravan of horses and mules
+from Jaffa to meet me in El Kantara, which I fixed upon as my starting
+point for the desert. The following pages contain a narrative of the
+expedition, which was undertaken in March 1878, as noted down in the
+tent on the evening of each day. My investigation convinced me that the
+railway communication so often dreamed of is absolutely impracticable,
+chiefly on account of the easily movable character of the sands of the
+desert. The line would become completely buried beneath them after every
+storm of any degree of violence, and could therefore only be kept clear
+by constant labour and expense. Of all proposals for the attainment of
+the object in question the most promising appeared to me to be the
+formation of a good harbour at Beyrout, to which all the trade of Syria
+might be directed by means of two railways, one along the rich coast of
+Southern Syria, and the other to pass down the valley of the Jordan.
+Beyrout offers greater advantages for the purpose than Jaffa, inasmuch
+as the harbour works would be easier, and therefore less costly; and the
+town itself, besides being far richer, already possesses established
+communications with Damascus and the inland trade.</p>
+
+<p>The accomplishment of this work seems to me so important in view of the
+welfare and commercial development of Syria, that I cannot conclude
+without expressing a wish that it may be soon undertaken under the
+auspices of those Powers in whose interests it may be.</p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Zindis, near Trieste</span>,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;"><i>October 1879</i>.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="60%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+<tr><td align='right'>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">El Kantara</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">To Bir el Nus and Katya</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_5'>5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Katya to Bir el Abd</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_11'>11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Bir el Abd to Bir el Magara</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>V.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Bir el Magara to El Harish</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VI.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">El Harish</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_30'>30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From El Harish to Sheik el Zvoyed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_47'>47</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>VIII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Sheik el Zvoyed to Khanyunis</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_52'>52</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>IX.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Khanyunis</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>X.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">From Khanyunis to Gaza</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS2" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS2"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='centered'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" width="60%" cellspacing="0" summary="LIST OF ILLUSTRATION">
+<tr><td align='left'>1. <span class="smcap">Jebel el Magara</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#frontis'><i>Frontispiece.</i></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2. <span class="smcap">Jebel Abou Assab</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'>6</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>3. <span class="smcap">El Guja</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>4. <span class="smcap">Rumman</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>5. <span class="smcap">Katya</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_10'>10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>6. <span class="smcap">Sheik el Mzeyen, in Katya</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_12'>12</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>7. <span class="smcap">Lehochomu-Melleha</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>8. <span class="smcap">Jebel el Magara</span> (taken from El Brej)</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>9. <span class="smcap">Koubba el Magara</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_23'>23</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>10. <span class="smcap">Jebel el Halal</span> (taken from Ard el Murrah)</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_26'>26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>11. <span class="smcap">Wadi Abou-Sbeh</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_28'>28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>12. <span class="smcap">El Harish</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_30'>30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>13. <span class="smcap">The Bazaar of El Harish</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>14. <span class="smcap">El Harish</span> (View on the Northern Side)</td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_42'>42</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>15. <span class="smcap">Koubba of Nabi Gasser</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_44'>44</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>16. <span class="smcap">El Harrouba</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_48'>48</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>17. <span class="smcap">Melleha of Sheik el Zvoyed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_50'>50</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>18. <span class="smcap">Our Camp in Sheik el Zvoyed</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_52'>52</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>19. <span class="smcap">Sager el Emir</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>20. <span class="smcap">Rafah Columns</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>21. <span class="smcap">Kala of Khanyunis</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_58'>58</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>22. <span class="smcap">Neighbourhood of Gaza</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>23. <span class="smcap">Entrance to Bazaar, Gaza</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><br /><br /><a name="THE_CARAVAN_ROUTE" id="THE_CARAVAN_ROUTE"></a>THE CARAVAN ROUTE</h2>
+
+<h2>BETWEEN</h2>
+
+<h2>EGYPT AND SYRIA.<br /><br /></h2>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>I.</h2>
+
+<h3>EL KANTARA.</h3>
+
+
+<p>One of the Suez Canal Company's tugs soon took us down the canal from
+Ismailia to El Kantara (the bridge), where we were to meet our caravan.
+Just as we were landing we observed the first few horses of the latter
+crossing by the ferry which plies between the two sides of the canal.
+The boat had to go over three times to get all our animals and luggage,
+and we found it no easy work on the other side to strap up all our
+things ready for the journey. Matters seldom go altogether smoothly on
+the first day of a caravan expedition. At length a start was made, the
+mules laden with our tents and luggage going on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> in front, and ourselves
+bringing up the rear. The little hotel of El Kantara, with the few
+patches of vegetation surrounding it, was the last sight we had of
+civilised life. Following the telegraph posts, which mark the route from
+Egypt to Syria, we then entered the rolling desert, and soon began to
+enjoy that feeling of freedom which a boundless plain always inspires.
+Only life on the sea, with all its wonderful charms, is to be compared
+to a journey through the desert. In the midst of its vast and solitary
+expanse the traveller feels himself overwhelmed, and his imagination
+conjures up strange forms on the far horizon. The desert is to the Arab
+what the sea is to the sailor; for both, their proper element has a
+permanent and irresistible attraction. Old Abou Nabout, the leader of
+our caravan, rode on quietly in front, his eyes gazing steadfastly
+across the sandy plain, and dreams of his youth doubtless floated
+through his mind as his horse threw up clouds of sand with his hoofs.</p>
+
+<p>Our first ride soon came to a pause, for instead of encamping at two
+hours' distance from El Kantara, as I had ordered, the moukri
+(mule-driver) unpacked our tents in a small sandy valley which we
+reached in half an hour only. Knowing from experience how necessary it
+is to insist<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> upon the execution of orders once issued, especially at
+the commencement of a caravan journey, I made the moukri pack up again,
+at which he was evidently not best pleased. We then continued our course
+until we came to a shallow depression of the sandy ground, where I
+directed our tents to be pitched. We travelled in a comparatively
+comfortable manner, being furnished with two tents for sleeping, and a
+third in which we took our meals. Besides these, we had a smaller tent
+for a kitchen.</p>
+
+<p>Everything was unpacked&mdash;our stores, the forage for our animals, and the
+water casks. These had to pass a careful inspection by our old leader,
+who repaired those which were leaky. The thirsty mules and donkeys were
+taken back to El Kantara to drink, and the camels were driven to graze
+in the neighbourhood, where were a few tamarisks, <i>Salsola echinus</i>,
+<i>Portulaca</i>, and other plants of the desert.</p>
+
+<p>Our tents were soon in order, and under their shelter we at last enjoyed
+our rest. Before sunset we saw our animals return from El Kantara.
+Horses and mules were then re-saddled and fastened together in a
+straight line to a long rope. Their shadows, thrown by the moon upon the
+sand, were extremely grotesque. We could now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> count them at our leisure.
+There were seven horses, five mules, and three donkeys. The camels,
+seven in number, were allowed to wander freely over the desert. To an
+inexperienced traveller their huge forms on the vast plain, in a dark
+night, have the appearance of ghastly phantoms. Our moukri and the
+camel-drivers had lighted a big fire, and were now stretched out at full
+length around it. We had four moukri, one of whom was a Persian named
+Ahsen, and two camel-drivers, Daud and Hassan, both from El Harish. We
+heard Abou Nabout's voice every now and then in the kitchen tent for
+some little time, but complete peace soon reigned, and it was not long
+before our little camp were fast asleep.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="II" id="II"></a>II.</h2>
+
+<h3>TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might
+have a good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was
+disposed of, and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn
+were still visible upon the moving sand, but would in all probability
+become obliterated soon after our departure. It was a glorious day, and
+we felt braced and invigorated by the pure air of the desert. Proceeding
+through a uniform plain covered with purslane bushes, we saw rising in
+the distance to our right, or south-east, the Jebel Abou Assab,
+"Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more elevated
+spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up the
+canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
+vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance
+through a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible),<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> had a most
+singular effect, and made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of
+M. De Lesseps's grand undertaking. It was not long, however, before the
+highest masts disappeared like phantoms behind the sandy waves through
+which our path lay. After passing a small hillock on our right, called
+Gerba&mdash;"water skin," we reached an undulating piece of ground commanding
+a view of the mountains above referred to, and of the group of palms
+known as Zaega&mdash;"the Beautiful." At the same time the scene was
+agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so common in the desert. A
+beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our left, displaying the
+reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even showing
+with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
+distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
+women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
+pasturage.</p>
+
+<p>A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a
+little water was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met
+a caravan of people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few
+wretched horses and mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two
+Bedouins, who applied to us for the customary backshish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i023.jpg" width="600" height="367" alt="JEBEL ABOU ASSAB." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and
+sources of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably
+lean dromedary, bearing the mails from El Harish. We learned from his
+rider, who, as may be imagined, was glad enough of the company of a
+caravan, that the post went each way once a week, and so kept up some
+degree of communication between El Harish and the outer world. The ease
+with which the fleet animal strode across the sandy ground was quite
+delightful to witness. Now and again he got some distance ahead, and our
+horses had some difficulty in overtaking him. The entomology, too, of
+the desert did not escape our attention. We collected several specimens
+of <i>Anthia</i>, <i>Asida</i>, and <i>Scarab&aelig;us sacer</i>, the historical Scarab&aelig;us of
+the Egyptians.</p>
+
+<p>After going slightly up hill for some distance further through the
+wearisome sand, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the group of
+palms "El Guja"&mdash;"the snail," at the foot of the sand-hills, towards
+which we turned that we might take our lunch beneath their grateful
+shade. As one descends, a charming desert scene is presented by this
+oasis, with the Jebel Abou Assab in the background. As soon as we
+reached the spot, at half-past eleven o'clock, we pitched our little
+tent,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> and, soothed by the gentle rustling of the breeze through the
+leafy crowns of the tall and slender palms, enjoyed a delightful rest. I
+afterwards made a sketch of a portion of the group (see illustration),
+while Vives (one of our party) shot a couple of Calander larks and
+captured a snake. Striking our tent at two o'clock, we went, before
+continuing our journey, to look at the little well, which is lined with
+palm-stems to keep out the sand. We found the water saline, as is usual
+with desert springs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i027.jpg" width="600" height="375" alt="EL GUJA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EL GUJA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Again, proceeding upward across the sandy ground, we obtained a view on
+our right of the summit of Jebel Abou Assah. Further on, we reached an
+extended range of sand-hills, the tops of which had, from the action of
+the wind, become as angular as though they had been cut with a knife. In
+every direction were to be seen scattered about carcasses and skeletons
+of camels, the most recent of which our horses passed with great
+reluctance. The only living creatures to be met with in this still
+desert region are a few king-ravens, two of which came within range, but
+we did not feel tempted to take a shot at them. To our right we passed,
+at the foot of low sand-hills, another small group of palms, called by
+the natives El Garabiyat&mdash;"the foreign woman," with an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> enclosure
+made by the Bedouins for the storage of dates.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i030.jpg" width="600" height="359" alt="RUMMAN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RUMMAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our poor horses continued toiling along, alternately up and down hill,
+across this chain of sand-hills, the sharp peaks of which stood out with
+remarkable clearness against the dark blue sky. Here and there tufts of
+grass, called Sabad, growing out between the sand, provide a welcome
+fodder for the camels. Imposing in its wild solitude is the view
+backward over the desert scene, with the palm group of
+Rumman&mdash;"pomegranate," to the right (see illustration). Soon, however,
+to our great joy, we came upon the palm group of Bir el Nus, signifying
+"Half-way Well," with a tamarisk growing near. The well itself, the
+water of which is slightly saline, is placed under a small group of
+palms to the left. This little oasis, situated at three-fourths of the
+distance from Kantara to Katya, is an inviting resting-place, but we
+decided to go on; and, continuing our progress along the well-marked
+road across the deep sandy ground, reached the small palm group of
+Tahte&mdash;"subjacent," from which that of El Garif may be seen to the left
+and that of Abou Raml to the right. These groups of verdure form a most
+enlivening contrast to the dreary scene around.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>From Tahte the ground gradually rises, and we soon saw over the sandy
+undulations the countless palms of Katya. Upon this, our Bedouins, who
+were quite exhausted from their toilsome journey through the sand and
+the scorching sun, expatiated in glowing terms upon the refreshing shade
+and abundant water awaiting us. We then went on through a plain and
+small coppice into a kind of Melleha, or saline plain, where we could
+see in the distance gleaming between the palm stems the white canvas of
+our tents, which we at length reached just before dusk.</p>
+
+<p>Our horses were much in need of rest after their laborious day's work,
+and it may be imagined how welcome the flaming fire close to the tents
+was to ourselves, and how heartily we enjoyed the evening meal which we
+found ready laid for us, and the repose upon the soft outspread carpets.
+All around us were encamped troops of Bedouins, the song of whose women
+resounded far away in the stillness of the night.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i033.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="KATYA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KATYA.</span>
+</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="III" id="III"></a>III.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD.</h3>
+
+
+<p>We awoke in sunny Katya, a delicious oasis of the most beautiful and
+shady of palms! While the tents were being packed, that they might be
+sent on to Bir el Abd, I reconnoitred the immediate neighbourhood. In
+the middle of the zone of palms which encircle Katya like a girdle, is
+an elevation covered with fragments of tiles, between which grow
+numerous plants of <i>Sedum</i>, some of which are very thick-leaved. Near an
+old tamarisk stands a very peculiar ruin of turret-like appearance,
+called by the Arabs Burj&mdash;"castle." It is built of tiles and stones,
+horizontally and vertically placed, and has a spiral staircase inside.
+Not far off is a Koubba, containing a tomb, a defaced marble inscription
+in Arabian, and two ancient columns, from one of which a garland hangs.
+The palm-leaf stalks stuck in the ground outside indicate the sites of
+various graves. Scattered about are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> several enclosures formed with
+stalks of palm leaves, for the storage of ripe dates. The ground on
+which the ruin stands is picturesquely surrounded with palms, of which
+there are four principal groups, the total number of trees being perhaps
+1500, for which the resident Bedouins have to pay the Government 1600
+piastres a year.</p>
+
+<p>In the first group of palms near the Koubba is the telegraph station, or
+little house of the Arab watchmen who see to the maintenance of the
+telegraph posts and wires. Behind a small hillock south of this house
+there is another Koubba called Sheik el Mzeyen (see illustration), with
+a doorstep of apparently old marble stone and an ornamental cupola. It
+is surrounded by a great number of aloes, and contains a simple tomb.
+Here, too, is a burial-place, with the graves indicated either by two
+stones, a piece of palm stem, or a leaf stalk, and, in some cases, by a
+fragment of camel bone. From this Koubba, the palm plantations extend
+southward and form a kind of festoon with the Keteya group, which is
+protected on the south-west by a hill of white sand.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i037.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the course of our ramble we met several Bedouins, who hailed us from
+a distance with a friendly Marhaba&mdash;"Welcome!" With one or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> two of
+them I exchanged a few words. Vives meanwhile shot a beautiful tufted
+cuckoo (<i>Cuculus glandarius</i>), a splendid bird, which habitually flies
+from the crown of one palm to that of another, and also a brace of
+shrikes, or butcher birds (<i>Lanius minor</i>), and some black and white
+chats (<i>Saxicola</i>).</p>
+
+<p>After resting awhile under the shady palms, we resumed our journey
+towards noon, passing on the way the large well of Katya. This well is
+the great feature of the beautiful oasis. It is of large dimensions,
+lined with tiles, and provided with a gutter or trench to conduct the
+water drawn to the different watering-places. There we found a caravan
+from Damascus, with a number of horses and mules in the charge of
+several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This herd, together with
+the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the background
+of gigantic palms, made up a strikingly harmonious and characteristic
+picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant aroma
+of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright
+rays of the morning sun.</p>
+
+<p>Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
+and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> of a
+vision. Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene
+were varied and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of
+which, after a long march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze
+rustled gently through the crowns of the trees high over our heads,
+while we lay on the ground gazing dreamily towards the yellowish horizon
+clearly defined against the deep blue sky. All around reigned perfect
+stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin women, laden with
+water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which probably were at
+some hours' distance.</p>
+
+<p>After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract,
+diversified only by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding
+some distance reached a gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill
+of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir el Abd. From there the road alternately
+rises and descends over bare sand ridges, and then passes down a
+declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to Bir el Aafin&mdash;"the stinking
+well," which contains but little water, and that almost putrid. In the
+distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins, who
+inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
+caravan with horses, asses, and mules,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> which some Kurds were taking to
+Cairo, the leader himself&mdash;a man advanced in years, wearing a green
+turban&mdash;riding at their head on a handsome bay.</p>
+
+<p>After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel
+el Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow.
+To our right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive
+Melleha, overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small
+quantity of rain-water. The action of this water on the soil produces an
+excellent salt, which the Bedouins collect after evaporation at the
+beginning of the summer. The smooth firm surface of the salty ground of
+the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and <i>Caucalis</i> on either side, is a
+welcome change to both man and beast after so much laborious marching
+through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and green, is much
+relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw, with
+their Bedouin keepers.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
+little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over
+another sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd&mdash;"the
+negro's well," where we were to stay the night. The place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> had also been
+chosen by some Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late
+when we arrived, I climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a
+sketch of the chain of the Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun
+(see illustration); and we afterwards went on to one of the cottages of
+the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to give us a friendly welcome.
+These men are Arabs, and live there with their families. They are
+provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to enable them
+to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at intervals all
+along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
+Katya, each man having a separate section to superintend. This
+arrangement is absolutely necessary in consequence of the damage
+occasioned by the violent winds which sometimes sweep over the desert.
+At Bir el Abd there are two men, each with a separate house, built of
+tiles, and a flat roof of the stalks of palm leaves. The lonesome and
+uneventful life of these men seems strange enough when one thinks of the
+important news constantly flashing over their heads, for the
+uninterrupted transmission of which they are chiefly responsible. We
+conversed with them for some little time, and gathered that they would
+be well contented with their lot<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> but for their anxiety on account of
+the frequent danger to which their dwellings are exposed from the
+strong, sand-bearing wind, called Hampsin. Little indeed is requisite to
+satisfy the frugal and pious Arab. Bidding them farewell, we returned to
+the tents and retired to rest soon after our meal.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IV" id="IV"></a>IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i045.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By six o'clock the next morning all were stirring, and at seven we
+struck our tents. Ascending from the hollow in which Bir el Abd is
+situated, we came to an acclivity known as El Homda Bir el Abd,
+overlooking the extended chain of Jebel el Magara in the distance. This
+was followed by a flat piece of ground, upon which little was growing
+beyond a number of plants of wormwood (<i>Artemisia monosperma</i>), and a
+kind of prickly gray-leaved shrub with blue blossoms. Our path then
+brought us to a Melleha with a few rushes, where the water was almost
+entirely dried up, leaving a bed of salt. A little later we passed
+across a plain of an almost uniform level, which appeared bounded to the
+right by the high hills in the distance. On the same side is situated
+Bir el Mabruka&mdash;"Well of the Mabruka," towards which we saw a party of
+Bedouins making their way. This plain is succeeded by hilly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> ground,
+distinguished as El Bassoul&mdash;"the onions," where white-blossomed broom
+with thin leaves is met with, and, in a slight declivity, a few bushes.
+From El Bassoul the road descends gently through a sandy tract, from
+which to the left we saw the great Lehochomu Melleha, with a mirage
+effect of such remarkable vividness as to make us think we had the open
+sea before us (see illustration). At this part of our journey we met two
+Bedouins, who greeted us with much ceremony. Here too, scattered about,
+we found specimens of <i>Caucalis</i>. Our course then lay through drearily
+uniform sandy ground, of somewhat broken configuration, and covered with
+bushy vegetation, where we passed a telegraph post bearing the notice
+that it was half-way between Bir el Abd and Bir el Magara. Here we
+overtook our camels, which, as usual, had preceded us; but we sent them
+on again, as we decided to pause for our midday meal. The wind being in
+the south, the air was terribly oppressive, and I felt some apprehension
+of the Hampsin. We accordingly pitched our tent in a hollow, overgrown
+with rushes, where we were to some extent protected from the scorching
+blasts. All our provisions were covered with the fine sand with which
+the air was filled. We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> were passed by two travelling companies of
+Bedouins, whom we had already seen on the road taking their scanty meal.
+An old woman came up to us to ask for a drop of water. Glad as we should
+have been to accommodate the poor creature, we dared not do so, lest we
+should have had a visit from the whole troop of Bedouins on the same
+errand, when our store would very soon have been exhausted. A youth of
+eighteen, to whom we gave a pipeful of tobacco, also begged for a little
+water, but we had to refuse him too.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>Being anxious to get on, we did not rest more than an hour. Continuing
+to follow the telegraph posts, we came to a hilly, sandy district,
+called El Brej, a most fatiguing section of the route, and much dreaded
+by the Bedouins on account of the almost entire absence of water. To the
+right is a small hollow where, by digging to some depth, just enough may
+be found to moisten the sand, but it is so saline that it aggravates the
+thirst instead of appeasing it. As we went on, the wind increased in
+violence. We met a number of Bedouins greatly suffering from thirst and
+heat, who asked us for a little water. It was most heartrending to see
+young children toiling along, and to hear them entreating their parents
+for a draught. Even now I can fancy I hear their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> piteous lamentations,
+as one after the other they tried to drain a drop from the empty clay
+bottles. One family I remember particularly; it consisted of an old man
+and three little children, the two younger of whom were mounted upon an
+emaciated old donkey, while the eldest, a thin, sunburnt lad, walked
+with the old man behind. As the poor beast was struggling up a sandy
+slope, its two little riders holding tight on, with their wan faces
+fixed on the distant goal, it came down all at once with a deep groan.
+The poor children rolled off terrified on to the sand. I shall never
+forget the eyes of the old man as he came up panting. "Allah! Allah!" he
+cried, with a supplicating glance heavenward. He then sat on the sand,
+and took the children in his arms, leaving the ass to recover itself. We
+were obliged to go on, and could do nothing for him but hope that his
+prayer for help had been heard.</p>
+
+<p>A little further we passed a spot where we were told a wandering Hindoo
+had four years ago succumbed from exhaustion and thirst. As may be
+imagined, the account of his sufferings was anything but cheering.
+Shortly after, we came upon our kitchen-boy, a native of Cairo, who
+could go no further. All our people had become so worn out that they had
+gone forward on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> baggage mules, leaving the poor lad, as the
+humblest among them, to make his way on foot through the deep sand as
+best he could. He had besought our moukri to allow him to ride, but in
+vain; every one cared only for himself. I ordered some bread, meat, and
+water to be given to him, and we then had to leave him to shift for
+himself. It was not until after midnight that he came into camp.</p>
+
+<p>We then descended slowly between roundish sand-ridges to the great
+Melleha, El Mestebak&mdash;"Melleha of the wall-seat," where the deep sand
+ceases. At a spot close to the entrance of the Melleha a little water
+may usually be obtained by digging, but our camel-drivers, after trying
+in vain to get some, had to content themselves with cooling their arms
+and feet with the moist sand. This Melleha is of great length,
+interrupted in one place only by a small saddle-shaped sand-hill, and is
+bounded on both sides by ridges of sand. It gradually slopes into a
+great flat plain with but one slight elevation in the centre, near which
+lies the grave of a soldier of the time of Ibrahim Pacha, marked by
+wooden pegs. This spot is also frequently used by the Bedouins as a
+burial-place. Beyond this part the Melleha increases in width, and the
+enclosing ridges become gradually<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> lower, until a view is obtained
+over those to the right of the extended Jebel el Magara. Only at the
+time of heavy rainfalls does this Melleha contain much water. The sandy
+tract which follows contains a great deal of white-blossomed broom,
+which also grows further on in abundance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="600" height="363" alt="JEBEL EL MAGARA (TAKEN FROM EL BREJ)." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JEBEL EL MAGARA (TAKEN FROM EL BREJ).</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i054.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="KOUBBA EL MAGARA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KOUBBA EL MAGARA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The wind having gradually abated, a cool afternoon breeze sprang up from
+the direction of the sea. "Riyeh Bahri! Riyeh Bahri" (sea breezes),
+cried our camel-drivers, delighted. It was not long before the Koubba of
+Magara was within sight. Cheered with the thought of the approaching end
+of our journey, we pushed briskly on, and at five o'clock reached the
+camp, which had been pitched close to Bir el Magara&mdash;"Well of the
+visit," in a hollow entirely surrounded by sand-hills, similar to that
+of Bir el Abd.</p>
+
+<p>Situated upon rising ground at a short distance from the spot is the
+half ruinous Koubba of the Sheik Suleiman, built about sixty years ago
+of fossiliferous limestone, in which shells of <i>Cardium edule</i> are
+particularly prominent. On the side next to the sea is a pointed arch.
+In the interior is a simple tomb covered with a linen cloth, an
+inscription in the recess of the outer window, a green flag, and two
+white<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> bannerets. There are two papers bearing inscriptions affixed to
+the wall, which is also painted in many places with red letters and
+several crosses.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the Koubba is the cottage occupied by the telegraph people,
+natives of Cairo, who showed themselves very friendly, and gave us some
+coffee, which a handsome boy handed round. After staying some little
+time with them we returned to our tents, where we found a good dinner
+ready for us.</p>
+
+<p>At a very late hour, the kitchen-boy whom we had left on the road came
+into camp, accompanied by two Persian knife-grinders, with a young
+Dervish from Eastern Asia. The Dervish wore long hair, and was dressed
+in a garment entirely made up of patches of cloth of various colours.
+These people had travelled with our caravan for two days, each carrying
+the heavy grindstone in turns. It had often much amused us to watch the
+care of the young Dervish, despite his fatigue, not to part with his
+alms bag, attached to the end of a long staff, when taking the stone
+upon his strong shoulders.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="V" id="V"></a>V.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH.</h3>
+
+
+<p>At a quarter past seven the next morning, we took our departure from Bir
+el Magara and ascended the gently-rising ground by which it is enclosed.
+Leaving to our left a large Melleha, called El Berdovil, which at high
+tides is filled with sea water, we followed a smaller one to our right,
+and came into a sandy, undulating, shrubby, and generally uniform tract
+of ground, which, after many hours' ride, brought us to a valley or
+Melleha-bottom, called Garif el Jemel&mdash;"Garif of the camel," lying
+between ridges of steep hills. Here we found the whole landscape in all
+the beauty of the early year, with the Bedouins' herds grazing upon the
+fresh green grass, which was covered with primroses and other spring
+flowers. On ascending the ridge to the right we enjoyed a most extensive
+view. To the left lay the Melleha, the broad sea Bahr el Kebir, as the
+Bedouins call it, the invigorating breezes of which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> reached us, and the
+uniform plain, with the mountains of El Magara and El Halal. We lunched
+on the ridge, feasting our eyes once more upon the distant sea, which we
+had not seen for so long. A Bedouin came and sat by us without speaking
+a word. We gave him a piece of bread, which, I suppose, satisfied him,
+as he then left us and went down the hill.</p>
+
+<p>It was soon time for us, too, to descend into the valley and resume our
+course. Still following the telegraph posts through a uniformly
+undulating plain, overgrown with shrubs, we reached a long Melleha
+enclosed by low hills, beyond which are the so-called "steps" of Adam
+Abou Zeit, the hero of Arabian legend, which are kept marked in the
+moving sand by passing Bedouins. A heap of stones near indicates the
+spot where Abou Zeit is said to have slain a Berdovil. On the left is a
+ruined castle, built of shelly marlstone, which, according to Arabian
+tradition, once belonged to the Berdovil in question. Thus does the
+imagination of these children of the desert clothe even these desolate
+places of the earth with interest, and connect ruins of diverse origin
+with the heroes of their traditions. A step or two further are similar
+ruins, known as Berj el Hashish&mdash;"the grass tracts," alleged by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+Arabs to be the remains of an old town. The great Melleha of Berdovil
+extends along the foot of these ruins, and attains a considerable width
+in the centre. We there saw a complete camel-skeleton, apparently of
+somewhat recent date, which our horses scented from a distance, and took
+care to keep a good way off in passing.</p>
+
+<p>On both sides of the road, which here runs along a small ridge (see
+illustration), we saw several herds of cattle and troops of Bedouins.
+Among them were two children trying in vain to recapture a stray camel.
+It was very amusing to watch them as they alternately employed stratagem
+and agility in order to effect their object.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i059.jpg" width="600" height="362" alt="JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH)." title="" />
+<span class="caption">JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH).</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Going on we passed Nahle Abou Sheh&mdash;"the palms of Abou Sheh," and, in a
+declivity, several small palm groups. These, together with the
+asphodels, which literally whiten the ground, indicate the neighbourhood
+of the sea. The large picturesque group, Etmil et te Jaber, is named
+after a young man, belonging to a distinguished family, by whom they
+were planted. The valley, our course through which I have described, is
+of great length, and opens out widely on each side. It contains several
+groves of palms in most picturesque groups, three of the principal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> of
+which are situated in a small valley to the left.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond, the road leads, between roundish ridges of moving sand, through
+the most complete desert, utterly desolate and bare, with scarcely a
+bush to be seen. These ridges form a continuous line, with dales and
+hollows between them. There is nothing to disturb the sublime stillness
+of the scene. Not a creature is visible, and not a sound heard excepting
+that of the distant breakers.</p>
+
+<p>Still keeping to the telegraph posts, we soon came within sight of the
+castle of El Harish, the last outpost eastward of the Egyptian
+Government. As we advanced over ridges and then over heaps of ruins, the
+view of the castle became more and more distinct, and at length we could
+overlook the palm-wood towards the sea, the beauty and shade of which
+had been so frequently enlarged upon by the camel-drivers. There can
+indeed be no more attractive picture for the mind of an Arab to dwell
+upon, when toiling over shifting sands under a scorching sun, than that
+of a plantation of palms, with abundant supply of water, on the shores
+of an invigorating sea!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i063.jpg" width="600" height="365" alt="WADI ABOU-SBEH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">WADI ABOU-SBEH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we approached El Harish, a row of men gathered outside the town wall.
+After saluting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> them we proceeded to our tents at the south-east end
+of the town. Having reached them we were congratulated by Abou Nabout
+upon having safely accomplished our journey across the desert.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner we were visited by some of the authorities, who were
+extremely cordial. As usual we offered them coffee and cigars. Their
+stay, however, was but short, as they rightly presumed that we needed
+repose.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VI" id="VI"></a>VI.</h2>
+
+<h3>EL HARISH.</h3>
+
+
+<p>El Harish is the town of the desert which forms the most advanced post
+of the Khedive in the direction of Turkish territory, and, as it
+possesses many remarkable features, is worthy of a detailed description.
+As the point of convergence of the caravan routes, the entire life of
+the place is bound up with the caravan traffic, carried on by the
+resident population with their camels; it is, in a word, a place of
+camel-keepers. It is situated at about two miles from the sea, on the
+outskirts of the desert, the daily advancing sands of which threaten in
+time to cover a considerable portion of the town, and indeed have
+already overwhelmed many houses in the south-west quarter of it.</p>
+
+<p>The climate is extremely salubrious. Snow is never to be seen; but there
+are frequent hailstorms and heavy falls of rain, particularly in
+February. The temperature is highest imme<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>diately after the Hampsin,
+that is, at the beginning of the summer, and the very hot season lasts
+four months. The strongest wind is the Hampsin, which prevails for fifty
+days, and is here particularly disagreeable from the quantity of sand
+which it brings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i067.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="EL HARISH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EL HARISH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The population numbers 2800 souls, exclusive of the Bedouins living in
+the neighbourhood. With scarcely an exception, the people are
+Mussulmans, and extremely fanatical; some portion of them are of Turkish
+origin, but none speak Arabic. There are but eight Christians in the
+place&mdash;three of whom are women. The garrison consists of sixty soldiers,
+including ten artillery-men, commanded by the governor of the fortress,
+whose especial task it is to restrain the excesses of the Bedouin
+tribes. The latter have a great dread of the military, as immediately a
+Sheik lays himself open to suspicion he is arrested and despatched to
+Cairo. Their conduct has consequently of late been very circumspect,
+particularly since their last outbreak, which was severely punished.</p>
+
+<p>There are no rich people in Harish, the richest possessing at the most
+not more than twenty camels; many persons are, on the contrary, so poor
+as to be forced to procure their camels on credit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> Should an animal
+come to grief under such circumstances, the poor debtor is a ruined man.
+Altogether there are 500 camels in the place&mdash;60 of which are for the
+use of the soldiers; also 60 hayin or dromedaries, one only of which is
+assigned to them. There is an almost incredible difference between the
+capabilities of the camel and the dromedary, as much as between those of
+the English draught-horse and race-horse. An idea of the extraordinary
+fleetness of dromedaries may be gathered from the fact that there are
+several in Harish who can run easily in one day from Harish to Kantara.
+A very serviceable animal, suitable either for draught purposes or for
+running, results from a cross between the dromedary and camel.</p>
+
+<p>There are but ten horses in Harish; but, on the other hand, no less than
+150 asses, of the black or black-and-white-spotted Bedouin race; about
+200 goats, 100 sheep, and 35 cows. The sheep and cows are mostly from
+Syria. Pigeons and fowls are largely kept, but only a few turkeys, and
+still fewer ducks. Dogs are also not numerous.</p>
+
+<p>The game of the district comprises quails (during the migratory season),
+hares, and gazelles. The last named are caught by the Bedouins when
+young, at some distance in the interior, but frequently die when their
+horns begin to grow. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> are transported long distances, without
+injury, in a basket of palm leaves, the small feet being tucked up under
+the belly, and the head only peering out of the basket, which of course
+is firmly fastened with cord.</p>
+
+<p>Fish abound in the neighbouring sea, and are caught by moonlight, with a
+bell-shaped net only, draw-nets being not used here. In Harish itself
+there are not more than fifteen or twenty persons who follow fishery as
+a calling. There are, however, many fishermen engaged in the preparation
+of salt fish, who come over from Damietta and live behind the Berdovil.
+In the same way they fish the Melleha, referred to above, in which are a
+large number of mullet. The fishing-ground has been rented from the
+Government by an Arab, who is even thinking of setting up a boat.
+Hitherto the fishermen have always come here from Port Said, along the
+shore, on foot.</p>
+
+<p>The palm trees of Harish, of which there are about 6000, are the
+principal basis of the local product. No impost whatever is paid for
+them to the Government, the concession being presumably accorded to the
+population, in consideration of their being inhabitants of a frontier
+station. No wine is made from the palms of Harish, the sap being
+principally used for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> preparation of sugar. The black and red dates
+are retained for home consumption, while the yellow, as also the Agua
+dates (pounded date cakes), are exported in sacks. The fruit of the
+place consists principally of figs and grapes, the latter being chiefly
+grown in the western portion of the district. For the most part they are
+white table grapes, but we heard that the under health officer of Harish
+was attempting to make wine from some of them. Melons are also
+extensively cultivated here, more particularly in Wadi, and are
+preserved for some time by hanging. The vegetables include tomatoes,
+garlic, onions, and carrots; barley, wheat, maize, and small sweet
+vetches are also grown, more or less.</p>
+
+<p>Industrial pursuits are almost entirely neglected. A few articles of
+clothing, etc., are made for actual home use, but nothing more. These
+comprise, for instance, winter jackets of sheepskins (made with the
+bare skin outside, the hair being worn next the body); camel's-hair
+sacks; close-fitting camel's-hair caps (a very warm and practical
+head-gear, and consequently worn by the military and officials under
+their fez); and black and striped cloaks of sheep's wool, such as are
+seen in Syria.</p>
+
+<p>The commerce of the place is insignificant,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> and what there is consists
+chiefly of a transit trade, for, being really little more than a large
+station of camel-keepers, Harish has no trade of its own. It has,
+therefore, much suffered from the construction of the Suez Canal, since
+which, almost the entire trade between the south of Syria and Egypt goes
+by water, leaving but a small portion for the once famous caravan route.
+From Harish itself no goods whatever are exported by land, excepting,
+occasionally, dates for Gaza. There are no boats at Harish, as the shore
+is bad and full of reefs. Corn and fruit often come by ship from Jaffa,
+and sometimes timber for building purposes, but this does not happen
+very often, as most of the timber required at Harish is brought from
+Wadi. Altogether, ships do not come more than fifteen or sixteen times
+in the year, when they are either laden as described, or simply
+ballasted, and return with cargoes of melons, dates, and Agua dates.
+Sometimes shipwrecks occur on these inhospitable coasts. As has been
+already mentioned, the postal service between Harish and the outer world
+is provided for by a weekly mail to Kantara, by means of a dromedary.</p>
+
+<p>I will now give some description of the place itself. Harish lies along
+the side of an undulat<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>ing hill fronting the sea, at the foot of the
+large quadrangular castle, a substantial building of calcareous
+marlstone. The only entrance to the castle is by a great gate opening
+from the town, and, therefore, upon the side next the sea. On either
+side of the gate is a round tower, with a marble pillar&mdash;the capital of
+which is inverted&mdash;built into the stone. Above are five marble tablets
+with inscriptions. A sixth tablet stands below the loophole, from which
+the standard-bearer (whose grave will be mentioned presently) was killed
+by the French. From the lower inscription we learn that the castle is
+327 years old, and was built by the Sultan Suleiman. The upper tablets
+bear the name of the Sultan Selim. A gate with iron mountings leads into
+the T-shaped entrance-hall, in the centre of which is an oval cupola,
+and on either side slightly pointed arches. At the entrance is a
+circular arch, and a similar one at the opposite end of the hall, in
+which a lamp is suspended, and where there are three marble steps
+leading up to the mosque. This is a very simple edifice, covered by a
+flat roof of palm-leaf stalks, and containing two rows of four pointed
+arches, with four ancient marble pillars built into the stone. To the
+left of the Mihrab, which has two marble pillars, and is also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+distinguished by simplicity, is a mural inscription. The Mem Ber is of
+the same character, and is constructed of red and green painted wood.
+Four men are set apart for the service of the mosque, one only of whom
+is a priest.</p>
+
+<p>Passing out through a side-door to the left, we found, opposite to the
+Jama, an old Egyptian sarcophagus of black granite, now used as a water
+trough, covered within and without with very small hieroglyphics.</p>
+
+<p>The interior of the fortress has a very deserted air. We found there
+dilapidated clay houses for the soldiers, and, somewhat to the side, the
+divan of the governor, which consists of a hall with two circular
+arches, the interior containing low sofas covered with rich carpets.
+There we waited upon the governor, who, according to invariable custom,
+ordered coffee to be served. He then took us over the armoury, in which
+was a small field-piece for mounting on camels, and afterwards conducted
+us over the fortress. The entire castle, as already mentioned, forms a
+quadrangle, and has four hexagonal towers, with embrasures, and a few
+bronze cannons. A gallery in a ruinous condition runs round the entire
+length of the walls, with a parapet of some six feet in height and
+embrasures. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> towers of the castle command an extensive view of the
+desert, with the distant mountain chains of El Halal and El Magara in
+the south-east, the magnificent palm plantation towards the sea, and the
+town of Harish itself spread out below.</p>
+
+<p>To the left hand of the castle gate, on passing out, is a small
+enclosure overgrown with shrubs, in which is the tomb, already referred
+to, of the Piraktar, or standard-bearer, who was killed by the French in
+the time of Napoleon. It is of simple clay, ornamented at the corners
+with ancient pillars.</p>
+
+<p>Altogether, El Harish has a poverty-stricken appearance, with rugged
+uneven streets, formed merely of a sandy earth. Gray is the prevailing
+hue, relieved only in a few places by the green of one of the loftier
+palm trees projecting above the buildings. These are of clay and
+straw,&mdash;the clay tiles being cemented with sand and clay; the roofs are
+flat and very roughly finished. Most of the houses have small courtyards
+communicated with by rough sliding doors. It is very seldom that one
+sees curved arches over these; they are almost invariably quadrangular,
+with a wooden bar as head piece. To many of the doors camels' skulls
+have been attached by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> occupiers, who for the most part are
+camel-keepers, as a protection against evil spirits. Over the entrance
+doors large branches of the tamarisk are frequently hung for a shade.
+These plain courtyards, which contain nothing but a few indispensable
+things, are, as it were, the private domain of the inhabitants, in which
+they often keep their cattle. They rarely communicate with each other,
+and of course are closed to strangers, unless accompanied by the
+proprietor. The chattels they usually contain are a few large clay
+water-pitchers, clay vessels in the form of casks, for the storage of
+grain, which, after being filled from the top, are closed and the grain
+afterwards drawn off as required from an opening in the bottom; a
+bell-shaped poultry-coop made of clay, with a lid, which is kept down by
+a stone when necessary; pigeon-holes either in the clay wall round the
+yard, or in the wall of the house itself; and small baking ovens with
+side-door and place under for fire. In the kitchens, too, which are as a
+rule wretched holes, there are small baking ovens with flat tops, such
+as are common throughout Egypt. The houses of the more prosperous
+inhabitants are not unfrequently provided with a raised space, railed on
+both sides, and sometimes latticed in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> front, which is fitted with
+receptacles for jars and other domestic articles.</p>
+
+<p>Ancient columns and pedestals are sometimes built into the houses. There
+are usually several wooden doors between these and the courtyards, which
+also serve as windows. Light is also provided for in many rooms by small
+wood lattices or jalousies, firmly built into the wall, the lattices
+often consisting of nothing but palm-leaf stalks stuck into the clay
+wall. When there is an upper story, which is rarely the case, it is
+approached from the courtyard by a staircase, usually dilapidated, with
+stairs of shelly marlstone. The stairs and floors of the interior, when
+there are any, are of clay. The roofs are formed with cross beams
+connected by palm-leaf stalks and pegs, which are then covered with palm
+leaves, and clay finally thrown over the whole. Those provided with an
+upper story live there in the summer, as it usually contains several
+latticed windows, and is consequently cooler. Most of the houses have a
+partition for sheep and goats.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i079.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH." title="" />
+<span class="caption">THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is but little in the whole town worthy of a visit. East of the
+fortress is the simple quadrangular tomb of Mahomet el Domiats, which
+bears a Greek inscription. Facing this is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> a house of refuge for
+casual passers-by, with a subterranean cistern, still containing water.
+Upon a small uneven piece of ground, called Ard Sheik el Kashif, is a
+Kittabia, or children's school, a roughly built house like the rest,
+where the lively youngsters assemble to be taught by their half blind
+master.</p>
+
+<p>About the centre of the town is situated the little Souk or bazaar, with
+a number of miserable booths (see illustration), which I searched in
+vain for specimens of native industry. While engaged on my sketch I had
+an opportunity of seeing some old coins found in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The cemetery is situated beyond a piece of land fenced with a prickly
+hedge, at a short distance from which there is a very old Nebke tree. It
+has a most neglected aspect. There are a large number of tombs in the
+form of steps, and here and there various kinds of pedestals, some of
+which are fluted. It also contains the roughly constructed Koubba of the
+Sheik Ghebara, with a pyramidical cupola coated with clay.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite or east side of the cemetery there is a slight rise in
+the ground affording a good view of the entire place, as well as of the
+large palm wood towards the sea, and the extensive plain planted with
+fig trees between the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> dunes of the coast and the cemetery. While I was
+sketching there, an old man approached and looked at the grave of some
+children, which no doubt were his own. He then looked up and enquired
+whether I was a father, and on my replying in the negative, ejaculated
+in a tone of the deepest sympathy, "Poor man!" An instance, this, of the
+high value set by these people upon the blessings of family life. "But,"
+he added after a pause, "we must submit to God's will."</p>
+
+<p>Here and there we remarked tombs in a better condition, with aloes
+planted around, and one or two that were even whitewashed. Many
+"Haddayas" (<i>Milvus ater</i>, or black kite) and kestrels (<i>Falco
+tinnunculus</i>) were flying about this deserted burial-place, which one
+might almost have fancied to be the spirits of the departed.</p>
+
+<p>Westward of the cemetery and below the town is a kind of vale or
+declivity planted with tamarisks and fig trees, and containing three
+wells provided with handspikes. Numbers of women and children with black
+jugs from Gaza go there to draw water, giving, as may be imagined, great
+life and animation to the scene. The water, like that of all the wells
+of the place, is somewhat saline. At Wadi the water is perfectly fresh.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i083.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="EL HARISH (VIEW ON THE NORTHERN SIDE)." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EL HARISH (VIEW ON THE NORTHERN SIDE).</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Proceeding still in a westerly direction, we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> came to the telegraph
+posts and the beginning of the route leading through the desert, which
+now lay unrolled before us. This road is the same by which we came to El
+Harish. Ruins of old buildings, asserted by the inhabitants to date from
+the time of the crusades, strewed the ground in every direction. In some
+cases the foundations might be clearly traced. It is said that old coins
+are still found now and then under the ruins. From the numerous aloes
+growing, it is perhaps to be inferred that graves once existed at this
+spot. A good view is obtained there of the place and its surroundings,
+including the sea and the verdant edge of the palm wood near it.</p>
+
+<p>The lazaretto is a wretched building, with a flagstaff and two houses
+projecting on the two sides. The entrance is from the side fronting the
+road towards Syria. In the rear is a yard, containing a small garden but
+no supply of water, which has therefore to be brought from the Wadi. The
+houses are of the same character as those of El Harish generally, but
+slightly more European in style. In the larger lives the deputy
+commissioner, the smaller being occupied by his adjutant, who is a
+remarkable example of the mixture of races so common in this country.
+His father was a Dalmatian, whose family came from Sebenico,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> and he
+himself was born in Egypt of a Nubian mother, being therefore almost a
+mulatto. He was educated in Dalmatia, and is a Christian.</p>
+
+<p>The quarantine processes do not take place in the building, but are
+performed in tents, which are kept in readiness on the premises, and
+erected as occasion requires.</p>
+
+<p>From the lazaretto we proceeded in the afternoon towards the sea, which
+is beyond the beautiful palm plantations, and not more than
+half-an-hour's ride from El Harish. Our path first brought us to the
+Koubba of Nebi Gasser (see illustration). This is a quiet burial-place
+planted round with dark green tamarisks, strongly contrasting with the
+yellow sands, which again are well set off by the background of sea and
+sky. The repose and peace of this little spot are intensified by the
+neighbourhood of the vast expanses of desert and sea, which here meet as
+though to rival each other.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i087.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon the hill of the Koubba, fragments of old masonry lie scattered
+about. In the interior of the somewhat large building, the door of which
+bears an Arabian inscription, is a conical cupola upon four roughly
+constructed arches. To the right, on entering, is the tomb of Nebi
+Gasser, over which is a canopy of green cloth upon a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> framework of
+wood. To the left is that of one of his followers. There are in the
+sand, on the land side, many traces of graves, which may be known by the
+aloes growing near. In many places a piece of marble column or of stone
+still projects, but it cannot be long before all such vestiges disappear
+under the ever advancing sands. At the side of the Koubba is an old
+tamarisk of the thick-leaved sort, called by the people Atel, those with
+the thin leaves, of which there are many examples here, being known as
+Tarfa.</p>
+
+<p>Going eastward from the Koubba of Nebi Gasser, we soon reached the broad
+Wadi, which still brings water down from the hills. It may be crossed
+either close to the sea-shore, or at a shallower spot not far distant.
+To the left of the Wadi are many vegetable gardens, with numerous wells.
+The large palm wood lies to the right of the Wadi, and stretches down
+nearly to the sea. The trees generally are of slender dimensions, but of
+gigantic height. The scene altogether is one calculated powerfully to
+stimulate the imagination. The solemn stillness which prevails it is
+impossible to describe. The regular sound of the distant breakers,
+mingled with the gentle whisperings of the breeze through the palms; the
+flights of kites floating aimlessly in the air; the pecu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>liar character
+of the shade of the palm, through the leafy crowns of which the light
+penetrates in trembling waves; the dark green tints of the foliage
+against the transparently blue Egyptian sky;&mdash;all combine to produce an
+effect which must be experienced to be realised.</p>
+
+<p>The different groups of the palm wood are interspersed with pieces of
+meadow land, watered by seven wells, and upon which are ten mean huts
+occupied by Arab herdsmen. The wood stretches for some distance over the
+broad surface of the Wadi, which, when swollen, frequently uproots
+many trees. In the entire Wadi there are some thirty fresh-water wells
+for the supply of the vegetable gardens, where onions, tomatoes, melons,
+etc., are grown. It contains, too, numerous young palm groves of recent
+plantation. Immediately beyond the point to which irrigation extends,
+the barren desert again commences.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VII" id="VII"></a>VII.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED.</h3>
+
+
+<p>But at length the time came to take leave of El Harish and its friendly
+inhabitants. Early on the morning of our departure the governor and all
+our acquaintances came once more to greet us, and, on our moving away
+eastward, stood until we were out of sight, making signs of farewell and
+other demonstrations of goodwill. The governor strongly counselled us
+not to stop until we reached Sheik el Zvoyed, as he judged the road
+between El Harish and that place to be unsafe for encampment, and also
+furnished us with an attendant, named Ramadan, a powerfully built man,
+with sunburnt features, as a guard in case of our meeting with hostile
+Bedouins. Our escort, who was mounted upon a cross-bred camel, and armed
+with a long sword and Arabian firearms, proved to be a most obliging and
+serviceable companion.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Soon after quitting El Harish we advanced upward into the broad clayey
+bed of the Wadi, upon the opposite bank of which we found the
+burial-place of the Bedouins, containing several tombs and a large
+number of aloes. Then we reached the opposite side of the Wadi, of
+cliff-like character, the clay of which is much worn away by the water.</p>
+
+<p>A guardhouse is situated there, occupied by three soldiers, who demanded
+from us certificates of health. On our telling them that everything had
+been arranged at El Harish, and that we had but just left there, we were
+allowed to proceed without further question.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the guardhouse the road passes through a bare plain, and then
+rises for some distance over sandy hills into undulating ground, where
+the hill ridges run parallel to the sea. We observed a number of
+asphodels growing, and here and there patches of corn land. As we
+advanced further the vegetation became thicker and thicker, the bare
+sand-hills continuing on our left only. We saw many Bedouins at work on
+the land&mdash;of which many extensive tracts are under cultivation&mdash;with no
+other implements than ordinary hoes and a one-horse "camel." In many
+places there grows an inferior kind of grass,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> called Hafour, which,
+however, makes excellent pasturage. We saw a good number of goats and
+sheep about, evidently in a thriving condition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i093.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="EL HARROUBA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">EL HARROUBA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After passing through the large fruitful valleys of Wadi el Geradi
+(valley of the earth), and Wadi el Harrouba (valley of the St. John's
+bread&mdash;the Locust or Carob tree), we ascended a hill from which there is
+an extensive view (see illustration). From there the road runs through a
+short valley past some cultivated tracts, the land being elsewhere
+overgrown with <i>Artemisia monosperma</i>. To the right a tree may be
+observed, which marks the scene of a terrible battle that took place
+fifteen years ago between the Tarabin Bedouins from Gaza and the Zowarka
+Bedouins from El Harish.</p>
+
+<p>We found the land improve as we went on, and in many places observed
+well-cultivated fields. Some attempts, moreover, had been made to define
+and improve the road by the construction of ditches on each side.
+Continuing to follow the telegraph posts, we came, after some distance,
+to rising ground, from which we had a wide view of the almost flat
+valley, which was covered with the above-named shrubs. In the distance,
+to the left of the valley, we could see,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> along the borders of an utter
+desert, the palms and the Koubba of Sheik el Zvoyed.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the partially cultivated hill to the left, is a large
+Melleha filled with rain-water, and bounded on the other side by bare
+sand-hills, in the midst of which are three beautiful palm groups. For a
+full view of this characteristic picture, rendered remarkably effective
+by the solitude of the scene, it is necessary to cross the hill. On the
+east side the Melleha is shallow, and ends in marshy ground, overgrown
+with rushes, beyond which is a plain extending to the desert. So
+exhilarated were our horses by the taste of the green herbage, of which
+they had so long been deprived, that many got away from us and galloped
+wildly across the Melleha. It took us nearly an hour to secure them,
+which we ultimately did by hemming them in between the water and
+ourselves. Flights of kites passed over our heads, probably attracted by
+some carcass not far distant.</p>
+
+<p>From the Melleha we soon reached Sheik el Zvoyed, where we found to our
+delight the tents already pitched upon the emerald green sward.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i097.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED." title="" />
+<span class="caption">MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We were met in a friendly way by the man in charge of the telegraph
+posts of the district; and several Bedouins, attracted either by
+curiosity or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> the hope of a "backshish" in some shape or other, came
+and seated themselves around us in picturesque groups. After remaining a
+short time longer, to enable me to complete a sketch of this bright
+little spot (see illustration), we returned to our tents, which we were
+very glad to reach after our long ride.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VIII" id="VIII"></a>VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The meadows lay smiling in the morning sun, and their fresh pasture
+appeared greatly to strengthen and invigorate our animals. While the
+packing was being done I went to take a look round Sheik el Zvoyed. The
+first thing I came to was the house, built of clay and straw, similar to
+that described at El Harish, where the man lives who keeps the telegraph
+posts and wires in working order. Attached to it is a small courtyard,
+in the peaceable possession of fowls, turkeys, pigeons, and even ducks.
+Not far off is a smaller house, where oil and various wares from Gaza
+are sold for the benefit of the neighbouring Bedouins, who all belong to
+the Zowarkas. Behind the houses are a number of slender palms, and at a
+short distance lies the burial-ground, containing a few graves, with
+numerous aloes growing between them. In the centre stands<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> the Koubba
+of Sheik el Zvoyed, built of square stones, with an inscription in
+Arabic over the door. The interior of the Koubba is cupola-shaped, and
+it contains a tomb covered with green cloth stretched over a wooden
+frame.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i101.jpg" width="600" height="361" alt="OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED." title="" />
+<span class="caption">OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Water is procurable from the sand-hills somewhat to the west behind the
+houses, not saline, but not of good flavour. The Bedouins of the
+neighbourhood go there with their donkeys to draw it in black Gaza jars.
+Both men and boys may be constantly seen threading their way along the
+sandy path; many of the boys have fine regular features, with sparkling
+eyes, but of that melancholy expression so peculiar to Bedouin children.
+In many parts of the country surrounding Sheik el Zvoyed, ruins and
+heaps of stones are to be met with, telling of places formerly
+inhabited.</p>
+
+<p>On returning to the camp I found the packing completed, and after
+shaking hands with the telegraph man we at once continued our journey.
+At first we passed through meadows, partially bordered with trees, and
+across sandy hills, and then descended a grassy slope called Lazga, from
+which we surveyed the extensive plain before us, with the sandy hills on
+the left projecting into the bright green surface like islets in the sea
+(see sketch). To the right are two large "Sidr" trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> called Sager el
+Emir (the tree of the Emir) or Magrunte.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> In the gently undulating
+plain there are many daffodils and blue-flowering Iris. The pretty
+meadows then alternated with barley fields, where numerous birds, such
+as larks, large buntings, and quails, are constantly to be seen. From a
+slight elevation we could overlook the whole of the plain stretching
+away beneath us, and in the distance we saw three Bedouin tents, and
+some cows grazing on the rich meadow land. We then passed the road
+leading to Arfeh, about two miles distant, where good water is to be had
+in the very middle of the sand.</p>
+
+
+<p>Fragments of gray granite pillars, still standing, are here to be met
+with about the road, the fields, and the sand, and we saw one lying on
+the ground half buried. On one side stands a "Sidr" tree (see sketch),
+and to the right in the other hollow of the valley is another. The
+pillars are the remains of an ancient temple, Raphia, and are of special
+importance in the eyes of the Arabs, who call them Rafah, as they mark
+the boundary between Egypt and Syria.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i105.jpg" width="600" height="360" alt="SAGER EL EMIR." title="" />
+<span class="caption">SAGER EL EMIR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i108.jpg" width="600" height="364" alt="RAFAH COLUMNS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">RAFAH COLUMNS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We took our midday meal close to the pillars, being now within the Holy
+Land, and after a short rest resumed our journey. Leaving a green
+sloping valley on the left, and passing sandy hills, we went over gently
+undulating grass-land, and saw before us the township of Benishaela,
+situated on the flat crest of a hill. Numerous cows grazing, and flocks
+of kites soaring in the air, enlivened the otherwise monotonous
+landscape.</p>
+
+<p>But here the aspect of the country suddenly changed, and we saw that we
+had entered the Land of Promise. Mud walls, with thorn bushes and
+prickly pears, enclosed the fields, in which almonds, apricots, and
+figs, sycamores, locust, and "Sidr" trees, vied with each other in a
+luxuriance all the more cheering to the eyes of the traveller from the
+barren desert. Passing several small houses built of clay, straw, and
+stones, we reached at three o'clock Khanyunis, the picturesque Kala of
+which seemed to invite our approach. We found that our camps had been
+pitched opposite to it in a field surrounded by opuntias.</p>
+
+<p>The governor Chaker Effendi, whose family were still in El Halil
+(Hebron), where he formerly resided, came to welcome us. He was very
+friendly, and ordered our camp to be guarded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> by three cavalry and four
+infantry soldiers, who relieved each other every two hours. There were
+one or two negroes amongst them, but the greater number were slim and
+muscular Arabs, and some of them remarkably handsome men. The governor
+personally conducted us afterwards over the Kala. Before describing
+this, however, I must give the reader some general account of
+Khanyunis.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IX" id="IX"></a>IX.</h2>
+
+<h3>KHANYUNIS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Khanyunis (or Khan Yunas) is the furthest Syrian place in the direction
+of Egypt, and in some respects the last outpost of the immediate
+authority of the Porte, as El Harish is of that of the Khedive. Between
+the two lies that desert tract in which the Rafah pillars stand,
+indicating the supposed boundary between the two countries. The Bedouin,
+however, wanders at will over the waste land, caring little whether he
+happens to be in Egypt or Syria.</p>
+
+<p>As in El Harish, the Kala constitutes the castle of the place, and is at
+the same time the nucleus around which the other buildings have
+gradually clustered.</p>
+
+<p>Khanyunis is now a pleasant village, but does not at present contain
+more than 1000 inhabitants. Formerly the population was larger, having
+reached 1800, but it has decreased owing to the frequent inroads of the
+Tarabin Bedouins, who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> only three years ago set fire to the crops of the
+poor villagers. All the Bedouins who haunt the neighbourhood are
+Tarabins. They are generally well provided with horses and asses, some
+of the former being fine animals, of great powers of endurance. Since
+Khanyunis has been supplied with a stronger garrison, they are kept in
+check, and the state of affairs is consequently much improved. There are
+now fifty foot and fifty horse soldiers, almost exclusively sons of the
+desert, who look quite picturesque with their Koufi as head-dress, and
+Arabian costume. They are fine muscular fellows, and extremely courteous
+in manner. The villagers wear the usual South Syrian costume, and are of
+fairly strong build. Some of the boys have two ringlets hanging at the
+sides of their heads,&mdash;a fashion not uncommon among the Bedouins. There
+are two schools for the instruction of youth, and, judging from the fact
+that nearly every one can read, they must be well attended.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i113.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="KALA OF KHANYUNIS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">KALA OF KHANYUNIS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The interior of the village presents but a poor appearance, the streets
+being dirty and disfigured by numerous trenches for carrying off the
+rain. The houses, between which lofty palms raise their towering heads,
+are built of mud and stone. The inferior quality of stone consists of
+shell<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> detritus and shale conglomerate from the neighbouring
+sea-shore, and the better material is brought from different ruins,
+sometimes from a distance of ten to twelve hours' journey. The roofs of
+the houses are flat, and over many of the entrances, which have wooden
+lintels, a piece of bone is fixed as a protection against the influence
+of the Evil eye. For the better defence of the inhabitants against the
+incursions of the Bedouins, the houses have loopholes; ventilation is
+provided for by a number of round holes arranged either in rows or
+tasteful designs. As has been said, the principal feature of Khanyunis
+is its Kala (see sketch), which abuts on a broad place or square, the
+left side of which still shows traces of a former enclosure. On either
+side of the entrance is a hall, with a fragment of a pedestal. That on
+the left contains the modest dwelling of the governor, who lives quite
+alone here, with but one servant. The Kala, which is 850 years old, once
+formed a square, at the corners of which were circular towers, with oval
+cupolas, and three embrasures. The two front towers only now remain, the
+back wall having been quite destroyed, and the once enclosed square is
+now filled with a wild confusion of wretched houses, half in ruins,
+which serve the soldiers as a place of habitation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> In the centre of the
+front side is a gate with loopholes within the pointed arch, above
+which is a Moorish frieze crowned with lilies. On both sides of the
+gate, and on the broad front wall, are pyramidical battlements with
+tapering ends. Inside the archway is an inscription of Sultan Bargut of
+Cairo, and either side is ornamented with a lion, rudely sculptured in
+relief. Arabic inscriptions are cut in the walls on both sides of the
+gate, and in the gateway itself; no regard having been paid to keeping
+within the stone rows. To the right of the gate, within the Kala, rises
+the octagonal minaret of the mosque, from which is obtained a fine view
+of the ruinous interior, with its labyrinth of dilapidated houses, as
+well as of the whole village. From here four roads can be seen diverging
+from Khanyunis, namely the El Harish road, the road leading to Suez
+<i>vi&acirc;</i> Akaba, the Benishaela road, and lastly, the Gaza road. At the
+entrances to these roads are grouped the houses of the village. Raising
+our eyes towards the horizon we saw the yellow sand-hills which bound
+the plantations towards the sea, strikingly contrasting with the bright
+green trees, and on the other side the rich verdant plain stretching
+away towards Gaza, which may be discerned in the distance. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> numerous
+prickly-pear bushes surrounding the village on the Gaza side are a
+conspicuous feature in the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>We now descended to complete our inspection of the Kala. In the interior
+the mosque, with its oval dome, has almost gone to ruin; but the fine
+though simple marble pulpit still stands in good preservation. In the
+midst of the ruins, which have a somewhat picturesque appearance, is a
+house in a very dangerous condition, in consequence of a considerable
+portion of the mosque having fallen on it a short time since.
+Notwithstanding this, however, the people are heedless enough to
+continue occupying it. Only a few steps' distance a lofty palm was
+recently blown down by a violent storm. Thus the works both of man and
+nature meet with a common destruction, the inhabitants not thinking it
+worth while to do the least in the way of repair, or to make the
+slightest attempt to protect themselves against impending danger.
+Lethargy and nonchalance are the leading characteristics of Eastern
+nations, and a certain evidence of the gradual decay of their religion
+and race.</p>
+
+<p>There is another mosque in the village opposite the Kala, but without a
+minaret. From its exterior it is scarcely to be recognised as a Jama.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>
+Near one of the ruined towers of the Kala's outer enclosure, and at the
+corner of a house on the road to Gaza, stand ancient pedestals, serving
+as seats for the Mayor, Sheik el Beled.</p>
+
+<p>The Souk or Bazaar of Khanyunis is formed by two streets lined with
+wretched Turkish shops, with mud or clay projections for seats. The
+doors are made to flap upward, but they close imperfectly; the roofs
+are, as usual, made of the Artemisia shrub. The goods exposed in these
+shops come for the most part from Gaza and Jaffa; but the caps of
+camel's hair and of cotton, as well as the white and black Syrian
+mantles, are made by the villagers themselves. At the end of the
+village, near the Souk, and on the road to El Harish, is the second
+public well, about 18 fathoms deep, and built entirely of ancient marble
+fragments. At the side is a cistern with cattle-troughs of the same
+material, which evidently belongs to a more flourishing period than the
+present. Somewhat further on, behind a slight hollow with stagnant water
+and a few palm trees, in the Akaba and Suez road, is the burial-ground,
+containing a few whitewashed tombs of step-like construction. At the
+opposite end of the village, where the road is open to the surrounding
+country, we came upon a hollow with embank<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>ments, and then took the road
+leading to Benishaela.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of Benishaela there are many gardens, which bear
+witness to the extreme fertility of the soil; though unfortunately there
+is not a single well among them. Almonds and apricots are the chief
+productions, and the raised ground enclosing them is often covered with
+small branches of the thorny "Sidr." Near the village we saw several
+"Sidr" trees, as well as tamarisks (Atel) and sycamores. The most
+numerous class are the thorny Opuntias, which grow round some of the
+gardens in rank luxuriance.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Khanyunis do not live exclusively from the cultivation of
+the ground; they are also largely engaged in cattle-breeding, and a
+great many cows are to be seen in the neighbourhood. Of camels there are
+but few; horses, on the other hand, are numerous. I also saw four
+greyhounds of the Syrian breed. As is well known, it is Richard C&oelig;]ur
+de Lion to whom is ascribed the introduction into the Holy Land of the
+greyhound, which, crossing with the ordinary street dog, originated the
+above-mentioned breed. These dogs were not of pure blood; they were
+spotted white and yellow, with shaggy hair and blue stripes, studded
+with cowries, on their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> haunches. They are used for hunting gazelles,
+which are frequently caught alive when very young. One of these graceful
+creatures was brought to us and offered for a sum equal to six
+shillings; it was very tame, and we carried it for some distance. But at
+length it died, in consequence, as was said, of having eaten bread,
+which, according to Abou Nabout's assertion, is very unwholesome for
+these animals. The more probable cause was the trying journey it made in
+a basket on a camel's back. There are only a few street dogs in
+Khanyunis; but, as a compensation, any quantity of kites, kestrels, and
+crows, which alight in hundreds on the loftier sidr or sycamore trees in
+the neighbourhood, and may often be seen hovering over the village on
+the look-out for prey and carrion.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="X" id="X"></a>X.</h2>
+
+<h3>FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA.</h3>
+
+
+<p>The broad sandy road from Khanyunis to Gaza passes for some distance
+through gardens with Opuntia hedges, and embankments crowned with thorn
+bushes. To the left, the gardens extend to sandy hills; and to the right
+as far as Benishaela, a village standing on an elongated hill, and
+containing 500 inhabitants. Behind this is another village called
+Abansan, with many cultivated tracts in the neighbourhood. On the
+uniform hill-range on which Benishaela is situated, and which bounds the
+valley on the land side, is the grave of Sheik Mohammed, at the foot of
+an old tree, and adjoining a small house which serves as the Koubba. To
+the right are the tents of the Bedouins, who are numerous here, and are
+the sole proprietors of the rich meadow lands.</p>
+
+<p>After keeping for some distance to the telegraph posts across the sand,
+we again passed through meadows, and then reached the dry sandy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> bed of
+a brook called Wadi Selga, bordered on the left by earth banks and on
+the right by meadows. After heavy rainfalls the stream of this brook
+extends from the mountains to the sea.</p>
+
+<p>On the left hand, about half-an-hour's ride from the main road, is the
+village of Der el Belah (enclosure of date-trees), the only one we met
+with before reaching Gaza. It lies in a valley, on a Melleha, which is
+only separated from the sea by a rather low shore, and bounded at the
+lower end by sand and clay hills. The village is recognised from a
+distance by the numerous slender palm trees, which give it a
+particularly charming and picturesque appearance. It contains about 100
+inhabitants, and consists of a few ruinous houses, the mud roofs of
+which are covered with grass. Between the buildings are cultivated
+pieces of ground, fenced with mud walls. Here and there we met with
+fragments of ancient pillars. There is also a rudely-built and
+dilapidated tower, tapering upward, and provided with loopholes, which
+is occasionally occupied by soldiers. To the north of the hamlet there
+is another Melleha, enclosed by beautiful groups of palms, and on the
+seaside by sandy hills. Not far from this a direct road leads from Der
+el Belah to Gaza, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> we wished to follow the main road, and
+therefore crossed the hills behind Der el Belah, over green meadows,
+where we saw plenty of daffodils and squills. From the top of the hills
+we had a view of the luxuriant meadows of the valley, where many cows of
+the small South Syrian breed were grazing, and in which we observed an
+old "Sidr" tree, called El Jemeter, near which there are said to be some
+ruins. On the other side we had before us the wide sea, separated from
+the meadows by sand-hills only, on which is a group of trees called Em
+Maharnes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img src="images/i123.jpg" width="600" height="366" alt="NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Having reached the road, we continued to advance across the plain, where
+we met with numerous tents of Tarabin Bedouins and several head of
+cattle. We remained but a short time for breakfast on the open meadow
+land, being anxious to get to Gaza. Soon after we came to the dry sandy
+bed of the Wadi Gaza, and, climbing the low hills lying behind it, we
+could see in the distance the minarets and palms of Gaza, the sight of
+which cheered the last steps of our journey. The town is situated to the
+right, commanded by the Mountar Hill, so called from the Sheik who is
+buried there. This hill is the principal feature in the landscape.
+Leaving to the left the path which we have mentioned as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> joining the
+main road from Der el Belah, we followed the sandy path along the
+telegraph posts. We then passed through fields and gardens fenced by
+thorny Opuntias, and planted with almonds, figs, olives, sycamores, and
+a few tamarisks, and finally reached the Quarantine Building of Gaza by
+half-past two o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>Here we had to take leave of our camel-drivers; and not without regret
+did I grasp the hand of honest old Daud, who had accompanied me the
+whole distance from El Kantara.</p>
+
+<p>All our superfluous luggage was here disposed of, for we were now in the
+Holy Land, the land of Plenty and Wealth. After a few days' rest in Gaza
+we started again with our horses and mules to make for the third time
+the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 506px;">
+<img src="images/i127.jpg" width="506" height="600" alt="ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA." title="" />
+<span class="caption">ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<h3>FOOTNOTES</h3>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Levkos&igrave;a, the Capital of Cyprus, with an Introduction by
+the Chevalier de Krapf-Liverhoff, Imp. and Roy. Austro-Hung. Ministerial
+Councillor, etc. etc. London: Kegan Paul and Co. 1881.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> All the illustrations were drawn by the author from nature,
+reproduced on wood by Frederick Havranek, and engraved by F. Stolarz and
+J. Jass of Prague.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Large specimens of <i>Zizyphus Spina-Christi</i>, Willdenow,
+called "Sidr" in Egypt, where its fruit is called "Nabak." In Palestine,
+the tree is named "Doom," and the fruit "Sidr." Magrunte or Magroon&acirc;t
+(in Syriac "Madjroon&acirc;t") means "the female neighbours."</p></div></div>
+
+<h3>THE END.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center"><i>Printed by</i> <span class="smcap">R. &amp; R. Clark</span>, <i>Edinburgh</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and
+Syria, by Ludwig Salvator
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,1964 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria, by
+Ludwig Salvator
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria
+
+Author: Ludwig Salvator
+
+Translator: Ernst von Hesse-Wartegg
+
+Release Date: September 26, 2008 [EBook #26705]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARAVAN ROUTE BETWEEN EGYPT AND SYRIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images
+generously made available by The Internet Archive/American
+Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA.]
+
+
+
+
+   THE CARAVAN ROUTE
+
+   BETWEEN
+
+   EGYPT AND SYRIA
+
+   TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN
+
+   [Illustration]
+
+   WITH TWENTY-THREE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR
+
+   London
+
+   CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY
+
+   1881
+
+   _All rights reserved._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE TRANSLATION.
+
+
+The present work is by His Imperial Highness the Archduke Ludwig
+Salvator of Austria, by whom also the accompanying sketches were drawn.
+
+By his numerous travels and scientific labours, the name of this Prince
+has become well known and highly appreciated among the geographers of
+all nations; and only a short time ago His Imperial Highness was elected
+an honorary member of the Royal Geographical Society, of whom there are
+but eight others, in a total list of some 3500 Fellows.
+
+His works of travel--comprising parts of America, Africa, and the
+Mediterranean coasts--have also attracted so much attention, that their
+translation into the English language seemed to be justified.
+
+The list of these works, together with some details regarding the life
+of their illustrious author, appeared in the translator's introduction
+to the first work published in English;[1] and in referring to it the
+translator of the present volume confidently expects a continuation of
+the friendly reception accorded to "Levkosia, the Capital of Cyprus."
+
+                                      CHEVALIER DE HESSE-WARTEGG.
+
+   GERMAN ATHENAEUM CLUB,
+         _October 1881_.
+
+[Footnote 1: Levkosia, the Capital of Cyprus, with an Introduction by
+the Chevalier de Krapf-Liverhoff, Imp. and Roy. Austro-Hung. Ministerial
+Councillor, etc. etc. London: Kegan Paul and Co. 1881.]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+Once more I had traced my way to Egypt to pass the winter there. Like
+every European who makes a lengthened sojourn in that ancient but
+renewed land, I was led to recall the great engineering and other
+achievements accomplished within our own time, and also to consider
+future projects of development for which the country seems to present so
+wide a scope. A great deal has been heard of late on the subject of
+improved communication between Egypt and Southern Syria. Proposals for
+the construction of a new harbour at Jaffa, for a railway through the
+valley of the Jordan, and for harbour works at Beyrout, exercised my
+mind in succession; and during my frequent walks in the beautiful
+Esbekieh my thoughts were more particularly occupied with the overland
+route between Syria and Egypt. Since the wanderings of the Israelites
+through the desert, and the flight of the child Jesus, of how many great
+events have these countries been the scenes, and what various
+recollections are awakened by their names!
+
+Former travels had rendered me familiar with both Egypt and Syria, as
+well as with the different lines of communication between them,
+excepting the old caravan route over Wadi el Harish, the ancient Torrens
+Egyptii. Bearing in mind the bad harbours and dangerous anchorages of
+Southern Palestine, I speculated upon the feasibility of a railway
+connection round the coast, and, in view of that object, resolved
+personally to examine the ground.
+
+Many obstacles, however, presented themselves to the execution of my
+intention. One of these arose from the circumstance that, since the
+opening of the Suez Canal, the greater part of the traffic between Syria
+and Egypt is carried on by the short water route _via_ Jaffa and Port
+Said, in consequence of which the old highway, formerly so frequented by
+caravans, travellers, and pilgrims, is now deserted and forgotten. Even
+the cattle-dealers now prefer to send their stock by steamer from the
+great export harbour of Jaffa to Alexandria, so that only a few
+camel-drivers are to be met with on the once favourite route. I
+therefore found it more expedient to order a caravan of horses and mules
+from Jaffa to meet me in El Kantara, which I fixed upon as my starting
+point for the desert. The following pages contain a narrative of the
+expedition, which was undertaken in March 1878, as noted down in the
+tent on the evening of each day. My investigation convinced me that the
+railway communication so often dreamed of is absolutely impracticable,
+chiefly on account of the easily movable character of the sands of the
+desert. The line would become completely buried beneath them after every
+storm of any degree of violence, and could therefore only be kept clear
+by constant labour and expense. Of all proposals for the attainment of
+the object in question the most promising appeared to me to be the
+formation of a good harbour at Beyrout, to which all the trade of Syria
+might be directed by means of two railways, one along the rich coast of
+Southern Syria, and the other to pass down the valley of the Jordan.
+Beyrout offers greater advantages for the purpose than Jaffa, inasmuch
+as the harbour works would be easier, and therefore less costly; and the
+town itself, besides being far richer, already possesses established
+communications with Damascus and the inland trade.
+
+The accomplishment of this work seems to me so important in view of the
+welfare and commercial development of Syria, that I cannot conclude
+without expressing a wish that it may be soon undertaken under the
+auspices of those Powers in whose interests it may be.
+
+   ZINDIS, NEAR TRIESTE,
+         _October 1879_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                              PAGE
+
+   I. EL KANTARA                                 1
+
+   II. TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA                   5
+
+   III. FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD                11
+
+   IV. FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA         18
+
+   V. FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH           25
+
+   VI. EL HARISH                                30
+
+   VII. FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED       47
+
+   VIII. FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS      52
+
+   IX. KHANYUNIS                                57
+
+   X. FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA                    65
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.[2]
+
+
+   1. JEBEL EL MAGARA                      _Frontispiece._
+
+   2. JEBEL ABOU ASSAB                  _To face page_  6
+
+   3. EL GUJA                                       "   8
+
+   4. RUMMAN                                         "  9
+
+   5. KATYA                                          "  10
+
+   6. SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA                      "  12
+
+   7. LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA                              "  18
+
+   8. JEBEL EL MAGARA (taken from El Brej)           "  22
+
+   9. KOUBBA EL MAGARA                               "  23
+
+   10. JEBEL EL HALAL (taken from Ard el Murrah)     "  26
+
+   11. WADI ABOU-SBEH                                "  28
+
+   12. EL HARISH                                     "  30
+
+   13. THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH                       "  40
+
+   14. EL HARISH (View on the Northern Side)         "  42
+
+   15. KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER                         "  44
+
+   16. EL HARROUBA                                   "  48
+
+   17. MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED                    "  50
+
+   18. OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED                   "  52
+
+   19. SAGER EL EMIR                                 "  54
+
+   20. RAFAH COLUMNS                                 "  55
+
+   21. KALA OF KHANYUNIS                             "  58
+
+   22. NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA                         "  66
+
+   23. ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA                      "  68
+
+[Footnote 2: All the illustrations were drawn by the author from nature,
+reproduced on wood by Frederick Havranek, and engraved by F. Stolarz and
+J. Jass of Prague.]
+
+
+
+
+THE CARAVAN ROUTE
+
+BETWEEN
+
+EGYPT AND SYRIA.
+
+
+I.
+
+EL KANTARA.
+
+
+One of the Suez Canal Company's tugs soon took us down the canal from
+Ismailia to El Kantara (the bridge), where we were to meet our caravan.
+Just as we were landing we observed the first few horses of the latter
+crossing by the ferry which plies between the two sides of the canal.
+The boat had to go over three times to get all our animals and luggage,
+and we found it no easy work on the other side to strap up all our
+things ready for the journey. Matters seldom go altogether smoothly on
+the first day of a caravan expedition. At length a start was made, the
+mules laden with our tents and luggage going on in front, and ourselves
+bringing up the rear. The little hotel of El Kantara, with the few
+patches of vegetation surrounding it, was the last sight we had of
+civilised life. Following the telegraph posts, which mark the route from
+Egypt to Syria, we then entered the rolling desert, and soon began to
+enjoy that feeling of freedom which a boundless plain always inspires.
+Only life on the sea, with all its wonderful charms, is to be compared
+to a journey through the desert. In the midst of its vast and solitary
+expanse the traveller feels himself overwhelmed, and his imagination
+conjures up strange forms on the far horizon. The desert is to the Arab
+what the sea is to the sailor; for both, their proper element has a
+permanent and irresistible attraction. Old Abou Nabout, the leader of
+our caravan, rode on quietly in front, his eyes gazing steadfastly
+across the sandy plain, and dreams of his youth doubtless floated
+through his mind as his horse threw up clouds of sand with his hoofs.
+
+Our first ride soon came to a pause, for instead of encamping at two
+hours' distance from El Kantara, as I had ordered, the moukri
+(mule-driver) unpacked our tents in a small sandy valley which we
+reached in half an hour only. Knowing from experience how necessary it
+is to insist upon the execution of orders once issued, especially at
+the commencement of a caravan journey, I made the moukri pack up again,
+at which he was evidently not best pleased. We then continued our course
+until we came to a shallow depression of the sandy ground, where I
+directed our tents to be pitched. We travelled in a comparatively
+comfortable manner, being furnished with two tents for sleeping, and a
+third in which we took our meals. Besides these, we had a smaller tent
+for a kitchen.
+
+Everything was unpacked--our stores, the forage for our animals, and the
+water casks. These had to pass a careful inspection by our old leader,
+who repaired those which were leaky. The thirsty mules and donkeys were
+taken back to El Kantara to drink, and the camels were driven to graze
+in the neighbourhood, where were a few tamarisks, _Salsola echinus_,
+_Portulaca_, and other plants of the desert.
+
+Our tents were soon in order, and under their shelter we at last enjoyed
+our rest. Before sunset we saw our animals return from El Kantara.
+Horses and mules were then re-saddled and fastened together in a
+straight line to a long rope. Their shadows, thrown by the moon upon the
+sand, were extremely grotesque. We could now count them at our leisure.
+There were seven horses, five mules, and three donkeys. The camels,
+seven in number, were allowed to wander freely over the desert. To an
+inexperienced traveller their huge forms on the vast plain, in a dark
+night, have the appearance of ghastly phantoms. Our moukri and the
+camel-drivers had lighted a big fire, and were now stretched out at full
+length around it. We had four moukri, one of whom was a Persian named
+Ahsen, and two camel-drivers, Daud and Hassan, both from El Harish. We
+heard Abou Nabout's voice every now and then in the kitchen tent for
+some little time, but complete peace soon reigned, and it was not long
+before our little camp were fast asleep.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.
+
+
+The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might
+have a good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was
+disposed of, and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn
+were still visible upon the moving sand, but would in all probability
+become obliterated soon after our departure. It was a glorious day, and
+we felt braced and invigorated by the pure air of the desert. Proceeding
+through a uniform plain covered with purslane bushes, we saw rising in
+the distance to our right, or south-east, the Jebel Abou Assab,
+"Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more elevated
+spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up the
+canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
+vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance
+through a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible), had a most
+singular effect, and made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of
+M. De Lesseps's grand undertaking. It was not long, however, before the
+highest masts disappeared like phantoms behind the sandy waves through
+which our path lay. After passing a small hillock on our right, called
+Gerba--"water skin," we reached an undulating piece of ground commanding
+a view of the mountains above referred to, and of the group of palms
+known as Zaega--"the Beautiful." At the same time the scene was
+agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so common in the desert. A
+beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our left, displaying the
+reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even showing
+with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
+distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
+women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
+pasturage.
+
+A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a
+little water was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met
+a caravan of people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few
+wretched horses and mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two
+Bedouins, who applied to us for the customary backshish.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.]
+
+Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and
+sources of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably
+lean dromedary, bearing the mails from El Harish. We learned from his
+rider, who, as may be imagined, was glad enough of the company of a
+caravan, that the post went each way once a week, and so kept up some
+degree of communication between El Harish and the outer world. The ease
+with which the fleet animal strode across the sandy ground was quite
+delightful to witness. Now and again he got some distance ahead, and our
+horses had some difficulty in overtaking him. The entomology, too, of
+the desert did not escape our attention. We collected several specimens
+of _Anthia_, _Asida_, and _Scarabaeus sacer_, the historical Scarabaeus of
+the Egyptians.
+
+After going slightly up hill for some distance further through the
+wearisome sand, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of the group of
+palms "El Guja"--"the snail," at the foot of the sand-hills, towards
+which we turned that we might take our lunch beneath their grateful
+shade. As one descends, a charming desert scene is presented by this
+oasis, with the Jebel Abou Assab in the background. As soon as we
+reached the spot, at half-past eleven o'clock, we pitched our little
+tent, and, soothed by the gentle rustling of the breeze through the
+leafy crowns of the tall and slender palms, enjoyed a delightful rest. I
+afterwards made a sketch of a portion of the group (see illustration),
+while Vives (one of our party) shot a couple of Calander larks and
+captured a snake. Striking our tent at two o'clock, we went, before
+continuing our journey, to look at the little well, which is lined with
+palm-stems to keep out the sand. We found the water saline, as is usual
+with desert springs.
+
+Again, proceeding upward across the sandy ground, we obtained a view on
+our right of the summit of Jebel Abou Assah. Further on, we reached an
+extended range of sand-hills, the tops of which had, from the action of
+the wind, become as angular as though they had been cut with a knife. In
+every direction were to be seen scattered about carcasses and skeletons
+of camels, the most recent of which our horses passed with great
+reluctance. The only living creatures to be met with in this still
+desert region are a few king-ravens, two of which came within range, but
+we did not feel tempted to take a shot at them. To our right we passed,
+at the foot of low sand-hills, another small group of palms, called by
+the natives El Garabiyat--"the foreign woman," with an enclosure
+made by the Bedouins for the storage of dates.
+
+[Illustration: EL GUJA.]
+
+[Illustration: RUMMAN.]
+
+Our poor horses continued toiling along, alternately up and down hill,
+across this chain of sand-hills, the sharp peaks of which stood out with
+remarkable clearness against the dark blue sky. Here and there tufts of
+grass, called Sabad, growing out between the sand, provide a welcome
+fodder for the camels. Imposing in its wild solitude is the view
+backward over the desert scene, with the palm group of
+Rumman--"pomegranate," to the right (see illustration). Soon, however,
+to our great joy, we came upon the palm group of Bir el Nus, signifying
+"Half-way Well," with a tamarisk growing near. The well itself, the
+water of which is slightly saline, is placed under a small group of
+palms to the left. This little oasis, situated at three-fourths of the
+distance from Kantara to Katya, is an inviting resting-place, but we
+decided to go on; and, continuing our progress along the well-marked
+road across the deep sandy ground, reached the small palm group of
+Tahte--"subjacent," from which that of El Garif may be seen to the left
+and that of Abou Raml to the right. These groups of verdure form a most
+enlivening contrast to the dreary scene around.
+
+From Tahte the ground gradually rises, and we soon saw over the sandy
+undulations the countless palms of Katya. Upon this, our Bedouins, who
+were quite exhausted from their toilsome journey through the sand and
+the scorching sun, expatiated in glowing terms upon the refreshing shade
+and abundant water awaiting us. We then went on through a plain and
+small coppice into a kind of Melleha, or saline plain, where we could
+see in the distance gleaming between the palm stems the white canvas of
+our tents, which we at length reached just before dusk.
+
+Our horses were much in need of rest after their laborious day's work,
+and it may be imagined how welcome the flaming fire close to the tents
+was to ourselves, and how heartily we enjoyed the evening meal which we
+found ready laid for us, and the repose upon the soft outspread carpets.
+All around us were encamped troops of Bedouins, the song of whose women
+resounded far away in the stillness of the night.
+
+[Illustration: KATYA.]
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+FROM KATYA TO BIR EL ABD.
+
+
+We awoke in sunny Katya, a delicious oasis of the most beautiful and
+shady of palms! While the tents were being packed, that they might be
+sent on to Bir el Abd, I reconnoitred the immediate neighbourhood. In
+the middle of the zone of palms which encircle Katya like a girdle, is
+an elevation covered with fragments of tiles, between which grow
+numerous plants of _Sedum_, some of which are very thick-leaved. Near an
+old tamarisk stands a very peculiar ruin of turret-like appearance,
+called by the Arabs Burj--"castle." It is built of tiles and stones,
+horizontally and vertically placed, and has a spiral staircase inside.
+Not far off is a Koubba, containing a tomb, a defaced marble inscription
+in Arabian, and two ancient columns, from one of which a garland hangs.
+The palm-leaf stalks stuck in the ground outside indicate the sites of
+various graves. Scattered about are several enclosures formed with
+stalks of palm leaves, for the storage of ripe dates. The ground on
+which the ruin stands is picturesquely surrounded with palms, of which
+there are four principal groups, the total number of trees being perhaps
+1500, for which the resident Bedouins have to pay the Government 1600
+piastres a year.
+
+In the first group of palms near the Koubba is the telegraph station, or
+little house of the Arab watchmen who see to the maintenance of the
+telegraph posts and wires. Behind a small hillock south of this house
+there is another Koubba called Sheik el Mzeyen (see illustration), with
+a doorstep of apparently old marble stone and an ornamental cupola. It
+is surrounded by a great number of aloes, and contains a simple tomb.
+Here, too, is a burial-place, with the graves indicated either by two
+stones, a piece of palm stem, or a leaf stalk, and, in some cases, by a
+fragment of camel bone. From this Koubba, the palm plantations extend
+southward and form a kind of festoon with the Keteya group, which is
+protected on the south-west by a hill of white sand.
+
+[Illustration: SHEIK EL MZEYEN, IN KATYA.]
+
+In the course of our ramble we met several Bedouins, who hailed us from
+a distance with a friendly Marhaba--"Welcome!" With one or two of
+them I exchanged a few words. Vives meanwhile shot a beautiful tufted
+cuckoo (_Cuculus glandarius_), a splendid bird, which habitually flies
+from the crown of one palm to that of another, and also a brace of
+shrikes, or butcher birds (_Lanius minor_), and some black and white
+chats (_Saxicola_).
+
+After resting awhile under the shady palms, we resumed our journey
+towards noon, passing on the way the large well of Katya. This well is
+the great feature of the beautiful oasis. It is of large dimensions,
+lined with tiles, and provided with a gutter or trench to conduct the
+water drawn to the different watering-places. There we found a caravan
+from Damascus, with a number of horses and mules in the charge of
+several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This herd, together with
+the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the background
+of gigantic palms, made up a strikingly harmonious and characteristic
+picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant aroma
+of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright
+rays of the morning sun.
+
+Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
+and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric of a
+vision. Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene
+were varied and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of
+which, after a long march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze
+rustled gently through the crowns of the trees high over our heads,
+while we lay on the ground gazing dreamily towards the yellowish horizon
+clearly defined against the deep blue sky. All around reigned perfect
+stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin women, laden with
+water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which probably were at
+some hours' distance.
+
+After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract,
+diversified only by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding
+some distance reached a gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill
+of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir el Abd. From there the road alternately
+rises and descends over bare sand ridges, and then passes down a
+declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to Bir el Aafin--"the stinking
+well," which contains but little water, and that almost putrid. In the
+distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins, who
+inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
+caravan with horses, asses, and mules, which some Kurds were taking to
+Cairo, the leader himself--a man advanced in years, wearing a green
+turban--riding at their head on a handsome bay.
+
+After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel
+el Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow.
+To our right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive
+Melleha, overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small
+quantity of rain-water. The action of this water on the soil produces an
+excellent salt, which the Bedouins collect after evaporation at the
+beginning of the summer. The smooth firm surface of the salty ground of
+the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and _Caucalis_ on either side, is a
+welcome change to both man and beast after so much laborious marching
+through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and green, is much
+relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw, with
+their Bedouin keepers.
+
+Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
+little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over
+another sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd--"the
+negro's well," where we were to stay the night. The place had also been
+chosen by some Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late
+when we arrived, I climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a
+sketch of the chain of the Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun
+(see illustration); and we afterwards went on to one of the cottages of
+the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to give us a friendly welcome.
+These men are Arabs, and live there with their families. They are
+provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to enable them
+to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at intervals all
+along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
+Katya, each man having a separate section to superintend. This
+arrangement is absolutely necessary in consequence of the damage
+occasioned by the violent winds which sometimes sweep over the desert.
+At Bir el Abd there are two men, each with a separate house, built of
+tiles, and a flat roof of the stalks of palm leaves. The lonesome and
+uneventful life of these men seems strange enough when one thinks of the
+important news constantly flashing over their heads, for the
+uninterrupted transmission of which they are chiefly responsible. We
+conversed with them for some little time, and gathered that they would
+be well contented with their lot but for their anxiety on account of
+the frequent danger to which their dwellings are exposed from the
+strong, sand-bearing wind, called Hampsin. Little indeed is requisite to
+satisfy the frugal and pious Arab. Bidding them farewell, we returned to
+the tents and retired to rest soon after our meal.
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA.
+
+
+By six o'clock the next morning all were stirring, and at seven we
+struck our tents. Ascending from the hollow in which Bir el Abd is
+situated, we came to an acclivity known as El Homda Bir el Abd,
+overlooking the extended chain of Jebel el Magara in the distance. This
+was followed by a flat piece of ground, upon which little was growing
+beyond a number of plants of wormwood (_Artemisia monosperma_), and a
+kind of prickly gray-leaved shrub with blue blossoms. Our path then
+brought us to a Melleha with a few rushes, where the water was almost
+entirely dried up, leaving a bed of salt. A little later we passed
+across a plain of an almost uniform level, which appeared bounded to the
+right by the high hills in the distance. On the same side is situated
+Bir el Mabruka--"Well of the Mabruka," towards which we saw a party of
+Bedouins making their way. This plain is succeeded by hilly ground,
+distinguished as El Bassoul--"the onions," where white-blossomed broom
+with thin leaves is met with, and, in a slight declivity, a few bushes.
+From El Bassoul the road descends gently through a sandy tract, from
+which to the left we saw the great Lehochomu Melleha, with a mirage
+effect of such remarkable vividness as to make us think we had the open
+sea before us (see illustration). At this part of our journey we met two
+Bedouins, who greeted us with much ceremony. Here too, scattered about,
+we found specimens of _Caucalis_. Our course then lay through drearily
+uniform sandy ground, of somewhat broken configuration, and covered with
+bushy vegetation, where we passed a telegraph post bearing the notice
+that it was half-way between Bir el Abd and Bir el Magara. Here we
+overtook our camels, which, as usual, had preceded us; but we sent them
+on again, as we decided to pause for our midday meal. The wind being in
+the south, the air was terribly oppressive, and I felt some apprehension
+of the Hampsin. We accordingly pitched our tent in a hollow, overgrown
+with rushes, where we were to some extent protected from the scorching
+blasts. All our provisions were covered with the fine sand with which
+the air was filled. We were passed by two travelling companies of
+Bedouins, whom we had already seen on the road taking their scanty meal.
+An old woman came up to us to ask for a drop of water. Glad as we should
+have been to accommodate the poor creature, we dared not do so, lest we
+should have had a visit from the whole troop of Bedouins on the same
+errand, when our store would very soon have been exhausted. A youth of
+eighteen, to whom we gave a pipeful of tobacco, also begged for a little
+water, but we had to refuse him too.
+
+[Illustration: LEHOCHOMU-MELLEHA.]
+
+Being anxious to get on, we did not rest more than an hour. Continuing
+to follow the telegraph posts, we came to a hilly, sandy district,
+called El Brej, a most fatiguing section of the route, and much dreaded
+by the Bedouins on account of the almost entire absence of water. To the
+right is a small hollow where, by digging to some depth, just enough may
+be found to moisten the sand, but it is so saline that it aggravates the
+thirst instead of appeasing it. As we went on, the wind increased in
+violence. We met a number of Bedouins greatly suffering from thirst and
+heat, who asked us for a little water. It was most heartrending to see
+young children toiling along, and to hear them entreating their parents
+for a draught. Even now I can fancy I hear their piteous lamentations,
+as one after the other they tried to drain a drop from the empty clay
+bottles. One family I remember particularly; it consisted of an old man
+and three little children, the two younger of whom were mounted upon an
+emaciated old donkey, while the eldest, a thin, sunburnt lad, walked
+with the old man behind. As the poor beast was struggling up a sandy
+slope, its two little riders holding tight on, with their wan faces
+fixed on the distant goal, it came down all at once with a deep groan.
+The poor children rolled off terrified on to the sand. I shall never
+forget the eyes of the old man as he came up panting. "Allah! Allah!" he
+cried, with a supplicating glance heavenward. He then sat on the sand,
+and took the children in his arms, leaving the ass to recover itself. We
+were obliged to go on, and could do nothing for him but hope that his
+prayer for help had been heard.
+
+A little further we passed a spot where we were told a wandering Hindoo
+had four years ago succumbed from exhaustion and thirst. As may be
+imagined, the account of his sufferings was anything but cheering.
+Shortly after, we came upon our kitchen-boy, a native of Cairo, who
+could go no further. All our people had become so worn out that they had
+gone forward on the baggage mules, leaving the poor lad, as the
+humblest among them, to make his way on foot through the deep sand as
+best he could. He had besought our moukri to allow him to ride, but in
+vain; every one cared only for himself. I ordered some bread, meat, and
+water to be given to him, and we then had to leave him to shift for
+himself. It was not until after midnight that he came into camp.
+
+We then descended slowly between roundish sand-ridges to the great
+Melleha, El Mestebak--"Melleha of the wall-seat," where the deep sand
+ceases. At a spot close to the entrance of the Melleha a little water
+may usually be obtained by digging, but our camel-drivers, after trying
+in vain to get some, had to content themselves with cooling their arms
+and feet with the moist sand. This Melleha is of great length,
+interrupted in one place only by a small saddle-shaped sand-hill, and is
+bounded on both sides by ridges of sand. It gradually slopes into a
+great flat plain with but one slight elevation in the centre, near which
+lies the grave of a soldier of the time of Ibrahim Pacha, marked by
+wooden pegs. This spot is also frequently used by the Bedouins as a
+burial-place. Beyond this part the Melleha increases in width, and the
+enclosing ridges become gradually lower, until a view is obtained
+over those to the right of the extended Jebel el Magara. Only at the
+time of heavy rainfalls does this Melleha contain much water. The sandy
+tract which follows contains a great deal of white-blossomed broom,
+which also grows further on in abundance.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL MAGARA (TAKEN FROM EL BREJ).]
+
+[Illustration: KOUBBA EL MAGARA.]
+
+The wind having gradually abated, a cool afternoon breeze sprang up from
+the direction of the sea. "Riyeh Bahri! Riyeh Bahri" (sea breezes),
+cried our camel-drivers, delighted. It was not long before the Koubba of
+Magara was within sight. Cheered with the thought of the approaching end
+of our journey, we pushed briskly on, and at five o'clock reached the
+camp, which had been pitched close to Bir el Magara--"Well of the
+visit," in a hollow entirely surrounded by sand-hills, similar to that
+of Bir el Abd.
+
+Situated upon rising ground at a short distance from the spot is the
+half ruinous Koubba of the Sheik Suleiman, built about sixty years ago
+of fossiliferous limestone, in which shells of _Cardium edule_ are
+particularly prominent. On the side next to the sea is a pointed arch.
+In the interior is a simple tomb covered with a linen cloth, an
+inscription in the recess of the outer window, a green flag, and two
+white bannerets. There are two papers bearing inscriptions affixed to
+the wall, which is also painted in many places with red letters and
+several crosses.
+
+Not far from the Koubba is the cottage occupied by the telegraph people,
+natives of Cairo, who showed themselves very friendly, and gave us some
+coffee, which a handsome boy handed round. After staying some little
+time with them we returned to our tents, where we found a good dinner
+ready for us.
+
+At a very late hour, the kitchen-boy whom we had left on the road came
+into camp, accompanied by two Persian knife-grinders, with a young
+Dervish from Eastern Asia. The Dervish wore long hair, and was dressed
+in a garment entirely made up of patches of cloth of various colours.
+These people had travelled with our caravan for two days, each carrying
+the heavy grindstone in turns. It had often much amused us to watch the
+care of the young Dervish, despite his fatigue, not to part with his
+alms bag, attached to the end of a long staff, when taking the stone
+upon his strong shoulders.
+
+
+
+
+V.
+
+FROM BIR EL MAGARA TO EL HARISH.
+
+
+At a quarter past seven the next morning, we took our departure from Bir
+el Magara and ascended the gently-rising ground by which it is enclosed.
+Leaving to our left a large Melleha, called El Berdovil, which at high
+tides is filled with sea water, we followed a smaller one to our right,
+and came into a sandy, undulating, shrubby, and generally uniform tract
+of ground, which, after many hours' ride, brought us to a valley or
+Melleha-bottom, called Garif el Jemel--"Garif of the camel," lying
+between ridges of steep hills. Here we found the whole landscape in all
+the beauty of the early year, with the Bedouins' herds grazing upon the
+fresh green grass, which was covered with primroses and other spring
+flowers. On ascending the ridge to the right we enjoyed a most extensive
+view. To the left lay the Melleha, the broad sea Bahr el Kebir, as the
+Bedouins call it, the invigorating breezes of which reached us, and the
+uniform plain, with the mountains of El Magara and El Halal. We lunched
+on the ridge, feasting our eyes once more upon the distant sea, which we
+had not seen for so long. A Bedouin came and sat by us without speaking
+a word. We gave him a piece of bread, which, I suppose, satisfied him,
+as he then left us and went down the hill.
+
+It was soon time for us, too, to descend into the valley and resume our
+course. Still following the telegraph posts through a uniformly
+undulating plain, overgrown with shrubs, we reached a long Melleha
+enclosed by low hills, beyond which are the so-called "steps" of Adam
+Abou Zeit, the hero of Arabian legend, which are kept marked in the
+moving sand by passing Bedouins. A heap of stones near indicates the
+spot where Abou Zeit is said to have slain a Berdovil. On the left is a
+ruined castle, built of shelly marlstone, which, according to Arabian
+tradition, once belonged to the Berdovil in question. Thus does the
+imagination of these children of the desert clothe even these desolate
+places of the earth with interest, and connect ruins of diverse origin
+with the heroes of their traditions. A step or two further are similar
+ruins, known as Berj el Hashish--"the grass tracts," alleged by the
+Arabs to be the remains of an old town. The great Melleha of Berdovil
+extends along the foot of these ruins, and attains a considerable width
+in the centre. We there saw a complete camel-skeleton, apparently of
+somewhat recent date, which our horses scented from a distance, and took
+care to keep a good way off in passing.
+
+On both sides of the road, which here runs along a small ridge (see
+illustration), we saw several herds of cattle and troops of Bedouins.
+Among them were two children trying in vain to recapture a stray camel.
+It was very amusing to watch them as they alternately employed stratagem
+and agility in order to effect their object.
+
+[Illustration: JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH).]
+
+Going on we passed Nahle Abou Sheh--"the palms of Abou Sheh," and, in a
+declivity, several small palm groups. These, together with the
+asphodels, which literally whiten the ground, indicate the neighbourhood
+of the sea. The large picturesque group, Etmil et te Jaber, is named
+after a young man, belonging to a distinguished family, by whom they
+were planted. The valley, our course through which I have described, is
+of great length, and opens out widely on each side. It contains several
+groves of palms in most picturesque groups, three of the principal of
+which are situated in a small valley to the left.
+
+Beyond, the road leads, between roundish ridges of moving sand, through
+the most complete desert, utterly desolate and bare, with scarcely a
+bush to be seen. These ridges form a continuous line, with dales and
+hollows between them. There is nothing to disturb the sublime stillness
+of the scene. Not a creature is visible, and not a sound heard excepting
+that of the distant breakers.
+
+Still keeping to the telegraph posts, we soon came within sight of the
+castle of El Harish, the last outpost eastward of the Egyptian
+Government. As we advanced over ridges and then over heaps of ruins, the
+view of the castle became more and more distinct, and at length we could
+overlook the palm-wood towards the sea, the beauty and shade of which
+had been so frequently enlarged upon by the camel-drivers. There can
+indeed be no more attractive picture for the mind of an Arab to dwell
+upon, when toiling over shifting sands under a scorching sun, than that
+of a plantation of palms, with abundant supply of water, on the shores
+of an invigorating sea!
+
+[Illustration: WADI ABOU-SBEH.]
+
+As we approached El Harish, a row of men gathered outside the town wall.
+After saluting them we proceeded to our tents at the south-east end
+of the town. Having reached them we were congratulated by Abou Nabout
+upon having safely accomplished our journey across the desert.
+
+After dinner we were visited by some of the authorities, who were
+extremely cordial. As usual we offered them coffee and cigars. Their
+stay, however, was but short, as they rightly presumed that we needed
+repose.
+
+
+
+
+VI.
+
+EL HARISH.
+
+
+El Harish is the town of the desert which forms the most advanced post
+of the Khedive in the direction of Turkish territory, and, as it
+possesses many remarkable features, is worthy of a detailed description.
+As the point of convergence of the caravan routes, the entire life of
+the place is bound up with the caravan traffic, carried on by the
+resident population with their camels; it is, in a word, a place of
+camel-keepers. It is situated at about two miles from the sea, on the
+outskirts of the desert, the daily advancing sands of which threaten in
+time to cover a considerable portion of the town, and indeed have
+already overwhelmed many houses in the south-west quarter of it.
+
+The climate is extremely salubrious. Snow is never to be seen; but there
+are frequent hailstorms and heavy falls of rain, particularly in
+February. The temperature is highest immediately after the Hampsin,
+that is, at the beginning of the summer, and the very hot season lasts
+four months. The strongest wind is the Hampsin, which prevails for fifty
+days, and is here particularly disagreeable from the quantity of sand
+which it brings.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARISH.]
+
+The population numbers 2800 souls, exclusive of the Bedouins living in
+the neighbourhood. With scarcely an exception, the people are
+Mussulmans, and extremely fanatical; some portion of them are of Turkish
+origin, but none speak Arabic. There are but eight Christians in the
+place--three of whom are women. The garrison consists of sixty soldiers,
+including ten artillery-men, commanded by the governor of the fortress,
+whose especial task it is to restrain the excesses of the Bedouin
+tribes. The latter have a great dread of the military, as immediately a
+Sheik lays himself open to suspicion he is arrested and despatched to
+Cairo. Their conduct has consequently of late been very circumspect,
+particularly since their last outbreak, which was severely punished.
+
+There are no rich people in Harish, the richest possessing at the most
+not more than twenty camels; many persons are, on the contrary, so poor
+as to be forced to procure their camels on credit. Should an animal
+come to grief under such circumstances, the poor debtor is a ruined man.
+Altogether there are 500 camels in the place--60 of which are for the
+use of the soldiers; also 60 hayin or dromedaries, one only of which is
+assigned to them. There is an almost incredible difference between the
+capabilities of the camel and the dromedary, as much as between those of
+the English draught-horse and race-horse. An idea of the extraordinary
+fleetness of dromedaries may be gathered from the fact that there are
+several in Harish who can run easily in one day from Harish to Kantara.
+A very serviceable animal, suitable either for draught purposes or for
+running, results from a cross between the dromedary and camel.
+
+There are but ten horses in Harish; but, on the other hand, no less than
+150 asses, of the black or black-and-white-spotted Bedouin race; about
+200 goats, 100 sheep, and 35 cows. The sheep and cows are mostly from
+Syria. Pigeons and fowls are largely kept, but only a few turkeys, and
+still fewer ducks. Dogs are also not numerous.
+
+The game of the district comprises quails (during the migratory season),
+hares, and gazelles. The last named are caught by the Bedouins when
+young, at some distance in the interior, but frequently die when their
+horns begin to grow. They are transported long distances, without
+injury, in a basket of palm leaves, the small feet being tucked up under
+the belly, and the head only peering out of the basket, which of course
+is firmly fastened with cord.
+
+Fish abound in the neighbouring sea, and are caught by moonlight, with a
+bell-shaped net only, draw-nets being not used here. In Harish itself
+there are not more than fifteen or twenty persons who follow fishery as
+a calling. There are, however, many fishermen engaged in the preparation
+of salt fish, who come over from Damietta and live behind the Berdovil.
+In the same way they fish the Melleha, referred to above, in which are a
+large number of mullet. The fishing-ground has been rented from the
+Government by an Arab, who is even thinking of setting up a boat.
+Hitherto the fishermen have always come here from Port Said, along the
+shore, on foot.
+
+The palm trees of Harish, of which there are about 6000, are the
+principal basis of the local product. No impost whatever is paid for
+them to the Government, the concession being presumably accorded to the
+population, in consideration of their being inhabitants of a frontier
+station. No wine is made from the palms of Harish, the sap being
+principally used for the preparation of sugar. The black and red dates
+are retained for home consumption, while the yellow, as also the Agua
+dates (pounded date cakes), are exported in sacks. The fruit of the
+place consists principally of figs and grapes, the latter being chiefly
+grown in the western portion of the district. For the most part they are
+white table grapes, but we heard that the under health officer of Harish
+was attempting to make wine from some of them. Melons are also
+extensively cultivated here, more particularly in Wadi, and are
+preserved for some time by hanging. The vegetables include tomatoes,
+garlic, onions, and carrots; barley, wheat, maize, and small sweet
+vetches are also grown, more or less.
+
+Industrial pursuits are almost entirely neglected. A few articles of
+clothing, etc., are made for actual home use, but nothing more. These
+comprise, for instance, winter jackets of sheepskins (made with the
+bare skin outside, the hair being worn next the body); camel's-hair
+sacks; close-fitting camel's-hair caps (a very warm and practical
+head-gear, and consequently worn by the military and officials under
+their fez); and black and striped cloaks of sheep's wool, such as are
+seen in Syria.
+
+The commerce of the place is insignificant, and what there is consists
+chiefly of a transit trade, for, being really little more than a large
+station of camel-keepers, Harish has no trade of its own. It has,
+therefore, much suffered from the construction of the Suez Canal, since
+which, almost the entire trade between the south of Syria and Egypt goes
+by water, leaving but a small portion for the once famous caravan route.
+From Harish itself no goods whatever are exported by land, excepting,
+occasionally, dates for Gaza. There are no boats at Harish, as the shore
+is bad and full of reefs. Corn and fruit often come by ship from Jaffa,
+and sometimes timber for building purposes, but this does not happen
+very often, as most of the timber required at Harish is brought from
+Wadi. Altogether, ships do not come more than fifteen or sixteen times
+in the year, when they are either laden as described, or simply
+ballasted, and return with cargoes of melons, dates, and Agua dates.
+Sometimes shipwrecks occur on these inhospitable coasts. As has been
+already mentioned, the postal service between Harish and the outer world
+is provided for by a weekly mail to Kantara, by means of a dromedary.
+
+I will now give some description of the place itself. Harish lies along
+the side of an undulating hill fronting the sea, at the foot of the
+large quadrangular castle, a substantial building of calcareous
+marlstone. The only entrance to the castle is by a great gate opening
+from the town, and, therefore, upon the side next the sea. On either
+side of the gate is a round tower, with a marble pillar--the capital of
+which is inverted--built into the stone. Above are five marble tablets
+with inscriptions. A sixth tablet stands below the loophole, from which
+the standard-bearer (whose grave will be mentioned presently) was killed
+by the French. From the lower inscription we learn that the castle is
+327 years old, and was built by the Sultan Suleiman. The upper tablets
+bear the name of the Sultan Selim. A gate with iron mountings leads into
+the T-shaped entrance-hall, in the centre of which is an oval cupola,
+and on either side slightly pointed arches. At the entrance is a
+circular arch, and a similar one at the opposite end of the hall, in
+which a lamp is suspended, and where there are three marble steps
+leading up to the mosque. This is a very simple edifice, covered by a
+flat roof of palm-leaf stalks, and containing two rows of four pointed
+arches, with four ancient marble pillars built into the stone. To the
+left of the Mihrab, which has two marble pillars, and is also
+distinguished by simplicity, is a mural inscription. The Mem Ber is of
+the same character, and is constructed of red and green painted wood.
+Four men are set apart for the service of the mosque, one only of whom
+is a priest.
+
+Passing out through a side-door to the left, we found, opposite to the
+Jama, an old Egyptian sarcophagus of black granite, now used as a water
+trough, covered within and without with very small hieroglyphics.
+
+The interior of the fortress has a very deserted air. We found there
+dilapidated clay houses for the soldiers, and, somewhat to the side, the
+divan of the governor, which consists of a hall with two circular
+arches, the interior containing low sofas covered with rich carpets.
+There we waited upon the governor, who, according to invariable custom,
+ordered coffee to be served. He then took us over the armoury, in which
+was a small field-piece for mounting on camels, and afterwards conducted
+us over the fortress. The entire castle, as already mentioned, forms a
+quadrangle, and has four hexagonal towers, with embrasures, and a few
+bronze cannons. A gallery in a ruinous condition runs round the entire
+length of the walls, with a parapet of some six feet in height and
+embrasures. The towers of the castle command an extensive view of the
+desert, with the distant mountain chains of El Halal and El Magara in
+the south-east, the magnificent palm plantation towards the sea, and the
+town of Harish itself spread out below.
+
+To the left hand of the castle gate, on passing out, is a small
+enclosure overgrown with shrubs, in which is the tomb, already referred
+to, of the Piraktar, or standard-bearer, who was killed by the French in
+the time of Napoleon. It is of simple clay, ornamented at the corners
+with ancient pillars.
+
+Altogether, El Harish has a poverty-stricken appearance, with rugged
+uneven streets, formed merely of a sandy earth. Gray is the prevailing
+hue, relieved only in a few places by the green of one of the loftier
+palm trees projecting above the buildings. These are of clay and
+straw,--the clay tiles being cemented with sand and clay; the roofs are
+flat and very roughly finished. Most of the houses have small courtyards
+communicated with by rough sliding doors. It is very seldom that one
+sees curved arches over these; they are almost invariably quadrangular,
+with a wooden bar as head piece. To many of the doors camels' skulls
+have been attached by the occupiers, who for the most part are
+camel-keepers, as a protection against evil spirits. Over the entrance
+doors large branches of the tamarisk are frequently hung for a shade.
+These plain courtyards, which contain nothing but a few indispensable
+things, are, as it were, the private domain of the inhabitants, in which
+they often keep their cattle. They rarely communicate with each other,
+and of course are closed to strangers, unless accompanied by the
+proprietor. The chattels they usually contain are a few large clay
+water-pitchers, clay vessels in the form of casks, for the storage of
+grain, which, after being filled from the top, are closed and the grain
+afterwards drawn off as required from an opening in the bottom; a
+bell-shaped poultry-coop made of clay, with a lid, which is kept down by
+a stone when necessary; pigeon-holes either in the clay wall round the
+yard, or in the wall of the house itself; and small baking ovens with
+side-door and place under for fire. In the kitchens, too, which are as a
+rule wretched holes, there are small baking ovens with flat tops, such
+as are common throughout Egypt. The houses of the more prosperous
+inhabitants are not unfrequently provided with a raised space, railed on
+both sides, and sometimes latticed in front, which is fitted with
+receptacles for jars and other domestic articles.
+
+Ancient columns and pedestals are sometimes built into the houses. There
+are usually several wooden doors between these and the courtyards, which
+also serve as windows. Light is also provided for in many rooms by small
+wood lattices or jalousies, firmly built into the wall, the lattices
+often consisting of nothing but palm-leaf stalks stuck into the clay
+wall. When there is an upper story, which is rarely the case, it is
+approached from the courtyard by a staircase, usually dilapidated, with
+stairs of shelly marlstone. The stairs and floors of the interior, when
+there are any, are of clay. The roofs are formed with cross beams
+connected by palm-leaf stalks and pegs, which are then covered with palm
+leaves, and clay finally thrown over the whole. Those provided with an
+upper story live there in the summer, as it usually contains several
+latticed windows, and is consequently cooler. Most of the houses have a
+partition for sheep and goats.
+
+[Illustration: THE BAZAAR OF EL HARISH.]
+
+There is but little in the whole town worthy of a visit. East of the
+fortress is the simple quadrangular tomb of Mahomet el Domiats, which
+bears a Greek inscription. Facing this is a house of refuge for
+casual passers-by, with a subterranean cistern, still containing water.
+Upon a small uneven piece of ground, called Ard Sheik el Kashif, is a
+Kittabia, or children's school, a roughly built house like the rest,
+where the lively youngsters assemble to be taught by their half blind
+master.
+
+About the centre of the town is situated the little Souk or bazaar, with
+a number of miserable booths (see illustration), which I searched in
+vain for specimens of native industry. While engaged on my sketch I had
+an opportunity of seeing some old coins found in the neighbourhood.
+
+The cemetery is situated beyond a piece of land fenced with a prickly
+hedge, at a short distance from which there is a very old Nebke tree. It
+has a most neglected aspect. There are a large number of tombs in the
+form of steps, and here and there various kinds of pedestals, some of
+which are fluted. It also contains the roughly constructed Koubba of the
+Sheik Ghebara, with a pyramidical cupola coated with clay.
+
+On the opposite or east side of the cemetery there is a slight rise in
+the ground affording a good view of the entire place, as well as of the
+large palm wood towards the sea, and the extensive plain planted with
+fig trees between the dunes of the coast and the cemetery. While I was
+sketching there, an old man approached and looked at the grave of some
+children, which no doubt were his own. He then looked up and enquired
+whether I was a father, and on my replying in the negative, ejaculated
+in a tone of the deepest sympathy, "Poor man!" An instance, this, of the
+high value set by these people upon the blessings of family life. "But,"
+he added after a pause, "we must submit to God's will."
+
+Here and there we remarked tombs in a better condition, with aloes
+planted around, and one or two that were even whitewashed. Many
+"Haddayas" (_Milvus ater_, or black kite) and kestrels (_Falco
+tinnunculus_) were flying about this deserted burial-place, which one
+might almost have fancied to be the spirits of the departed.
+
+Westward of the cemetery and below the town is a kind of vale or
+declivity planted with tamarisks and fig trees, and containing three
+wells provided with handspikes. Numbers of women and children with black
+jugs from Gaza go there to draw water, giving, as may be imagined, great
+life and animation to the scene. The water, like that of all the wells
+of the place, is somewhat saline. At Wadi the water is perfectly fresh.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARISH (VIEW ON THE NORTHERN SIDE).]
+
+Proceeding still in a westerly direction, we came to the telegraph
+posts and the beginning of the route leading through the desert, which
+now lay unrolled before us. This road is the same by which we came to El
+Harish. Ruins of old buildings, asserted by the inhabitants to date from
+the time of the crusades, strewed the ground in every direction. In some
+cases the foundations might be clearly traced. It is said that old coins
+are still found now and then under the ruins. From the numerous aloes
+growing, it is perhaps to be inferred that graves once existed at this
+spot. A good view is obtained there of the place and its surroundings,
+including the sea and the verdant edge of the palm wood near it.
+
+The lazaretto is a wretched building, with a flagstaff and two houses
+projecting on the two sides. The entrance is from the side fronting the
+road towards Syria. In the rear is a yard, containing a small garden but
+no supply of water, which has therefore to be brought from the Wadi. The
+houses are of the same character as those of El Harish generally, but
+slightly more European in style. In the larger lives the deputy
+commissioner, the smaller being occupied by his adjutant, who is a
+remarkable example of the mixture of races so common in this country.
+His father was a Dalmatian, whose family came from Sebenico, and he
+himself was born in Egypt of a Nubian mother, being therefore almost a
+mulatto. He was educated in Dalmatia, and is a Christian.
+
+The quarantine processes do not take place in the building, but are
+performed in tents, which are kept in readiness on the premises, and
+erected as occasion requires.
+
+From the lazaretto we proceeded in the afternoon towards the sea, which
+is beyond the beautiful palm plantations, and not more than
+half-an-hour's ride from El Harish. Our path first brought us to the
+Koubba of Nebi Gasser (see illustration). This is a quiet burial-place
+planted round with dark green tamarisks, strongly contrasting with the
+yellow sands, which again are well set off by the background of sea and
+sky. The repose and peace of this little spot are intensified by the
+neighbourhood of the vast expanses of desert and sea, which here meet as
+though to rival each other.
+
+[Illustration: KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER.]
+
+Upon the hill of the Koubba, fragments of old masonry lie scattered
+about. In the interior of the somewhat large building, the door of which
+bears an Arabian inscription, is a conical cupola upon four roughly
+constructed arches. To the right, on entering, is the tomb of Nebi
+Gasser, over which is a canopy of green cloth upon a framework of
+wood. To the left is that of one of his followers. There are in the
+sand, on the land side, many traces of graves, which may be known by the
+aloes growing near. In many places a piece of marble column or of stone
+still projects, but it cannot be long before all such vestiges disappear
+under the ever advancing sands. At the side of the Koubba is an old
+tamarisk of the thick-leaved sort, called by the people Atel, those with
+the thin leaves, of which there are many examples here, being known as
+Tarfa.
+
+Going eastward from the Koubba of Nebi Gasser, we soon reached the broad
+Wadi, which still brings water down from the hills. It may be crossed
+either close to the sea-shore, or at a shallower spot not far distant.
+To the left of the Wadi are many vegetable gardens, with numerous wells.
+The large palm wood lies to the right of the Wadi, and stretches down
+nearly to the sea. The trees generally are of slender dimensions, but of
+gigantic height. The scene altogether is one calculated powerfully to
+stimulate the imagination. The solemn stillness which prevails it is
+impossible to describe. The regular sound of the distant breakers,
+mingled with the gentle whisperings of the breeze through the palms; the
+flights of kites floating aimlessly in the air; the peculiar character
+of the shade of the palm, through the leafy crowns of which the light
+penetrates in trembling waves; the dark green tints of the foliage
+against the transparently blue Egyptian sky;--all combine to produce an
+effect which must be experienced to be realised.
+
+The different groups of the palm wood are interspersed with pieces of
+meadow land, watered by seven wells, and upon which are ten mean huts
+occupied by Arab herdsmen. The wood stretches for some distance over the
+broad surface of the Wadi, which, when swollen, frequently uproots
+many trees. In the entire Wadi there are some thirty fresh-water wells
+for the supply of the vegetable gardens, where onions, tomatoes, melons,
+etc., are grown. It contains, too, numerous young palm groves of recent
+plantation. Immediately beyond the point to which irrigation extends,
+the barren desert again commences.
+
+
+
+
+VII.
+
+FROM EL HARISH TO SHEIK EL ZVOYED.
+
+
+But at length the time came to take leave of El Harish and its friendly
+inhabitants. Early on the morning of our departure the governor and all
+our acquaintances came once more to greet us, and, on our moving away
+eastward, stood until we were out of sight, making signs of farewell and
+other demonstrations of goodwill. The governor strongly counselled us
+not to stop until we reached Sheik el Zvoyed, as he judged the road
+between El Harish and that place to be unsafe for encampment, and also
+furnished us with an attendant, named Ramadan, a powerfully built man,
+with sunburnt features, as a guard in case of our meeting with hostile
+Bedouins. Our escort, who was mounted upon a cross-bred camel, and armed
+with a long sword and Arabian firearms, proved to be a most obliging and
+serviceable companion.
+
+Soon after quitting El Harish we advanced upward into the broad clayey
+bed of the Wadi, upon the opposite bank of which we found the
+burial-place of the Bedouins, containing several tombs and a large
+number of aloes. Then we reached the opposite side of the Wadi, of
+cliff-like character, the clay of which is much worn away by the water.
+
+A guardhouse is situated there, occupied by three soldiers, who demanded
+from us certificates of health. On our telling them that everything had
+been arranged at El Harish, and that we had but just left there, we were
+allowed to proceed without further question.
+
+Beyond the guardhouse the road passes through a bare plain, and then
+rises for some distance over sandy hills into undulating ground, where
+the hill ridges run parallel to the sea. We observed a number of
+asphodels growing, and here and there patches of corn land. As we
+advanced further the vegetation became thicker and thicker, the bare
+sand-hills continuing on our left only. We saw many Bedouins at work on
+the land--of which many extensive tracts are under cultivation--with no
+other implements than ordinary hoes and a one-horse "camel." In many
+places there grows an inferior kind of grass, called Hafour, which,
+however, makes excellent pasturage. We saw a good number of goats and
+sheep about, evidently in a thriving condition.
+
+[Illustration: EL HARROUBA.]
+
+After passing through the large fruitful valleys of Wadi el Geradi
+(valley of the earth), and Wadi el Harrouba (valley of the St. John's
+bread--the Locust or Carob tree), we ascended a hill from which there is
+an extensive view (see illustration). From there the road runs through a
+short valley past some cultivated tracts, the land being elsewhere
+overgrown with _Artemisia monosperma_. To the right a tree may be
+observed, which marks the scene of a terrible battle that took place
+fifteen years ago between the Tarabin Bedouins from Gaza and the Zowarka
+Bedouins from El Harish.
+
+We found the land improve as we went on, and in many places observed
+well-cultivated fields. Some attempts, moreover, had been made to define
+and improve the road by the construction of ditches on each side.
+Continuing to follow the telegraph posts, we came, after some distance,
+to rising ground, from which we had a wide view of the almost flat
+valley, which was covered with the above-named shrubs. In the distance,
+to the left of the valley, we could see, along the borders of an utter
+desert, the palms and the Koubba of Sheik el Zvoyed.
+
+At the foot of the partially cultivated hill to the left, is a large
+Melleha filled with rain-water, and bounded on the other side by bare
+sand-hills, in the midst of which are three beautiful palm groups. For a
+full view of this characteristic picture, rendered remarkably effective
+by the solitude of the scene, it is necessary to cross the hill. On the
+east side the Melleha is shallow, and ends in marshy ground, overgrown
+with rushes, beyond which is a plain extending to the desert. So
+exhilarated were our horses by the taste of the green herbage, of which
+they had so long been deprived, that many got away from us and galloped
+wildly across the Melleha. It took us nearly an hour to secure them,
+which we ultimately did by hemming them in between the water and
+ourselves. Flights of kites passed over our heads, probably attracted by
+some carcass not far distant.
+
+From the Melleha we soon reached Sheik el Zvoyed, where we found to our
+delight the tents already pitched upon the emerald green sward.
+
+[Illustration: MELLEHA OF SHEIK EL ZVOYED.]
+
+We were met in a friendly way by the man in charge of the telegraph
+posts of the district; and several Bedouins, attracted either by
+curiosity or the hope of a "backshish" in some shape or other, came
+and seated themselves around us in picturesque groups. After remaining a
+short time longer, to enable me to complete a sketch of this bright
+little spot (see illustration), we returned to our tents, which we were
+very glad to reach after our long ride.
+
+
+
+
+VIII.
+
+FROM SHEIK EL ZVOYED TO KHANYUNIS.
+
+
+The meadows lay smiling in the morning sun, and their fresh pasture
+appeared greatly to strengthen and invigorate our animals. While the
+packing was being done I went to take a look round Sheik el Zvoyed. The
+first thing I came to was the house, built of clay and straw, similar to
+that described at El Harish, where the man lives who keeps the telegraph
+posts and wires in working order. Attached to it is a small courtyard,
+in the peaceable possession of fowls, turkeys, pigeons, and even ducks.
+Not far off is a smaller house, where oil and various wares from Gaza
+are sold for the benefit of the neighbouring Bedouins, who all belong to
+the Zowarkas. Behind the houses are a number of slender palms, and at a
+short distance lies the burial-ground, containing a few graves, with
+numerous aloes growing between them. In the centre stands the Koubba
+of Sheik el Zvoyed, built of square stones, with an inscription in
+Arabic over the door. The interior of the Koubba is cupola-shaped, and
+it contains a tomb covered with green cloth stretched over a wooden
+frame.
+
+[Illustration: OUR CAMP IN SHEIK EL ZVOYED.]
+
+Water is procurable from the sand-hills somewhat to the west behind the
+houses, not saline, but not of good flavour. The Bedouins of the
+neighbourhood go there with their donkeys to draw it in black Gaza jars.
+Both men and boys may be constantly seen threading their way along the
+sandy path; many of the boys have fine regular features, with sparkling
+eyes, but of that melancholy expression so peculiar to Bedouin children.
+In many parts of the country surrounding Sheik el Zvoyed, ruins and
+heaps of stones are to be met with, telling of places formerly
+inhabited.
+
+On returning to the camp I found the packing completed, and after
+shaking hands with the telegraph man we at once continued our journey.
+At first we passed through meadows, partially bordered with trees, and
+across sandy hills, and then descended a grassy slope called Lazga, from
+which we surveyed the extensive plain before us, with the sandy hills on
+the left projecting into the bright green surface like islets in the sea
+(see sketch). To the right are two large "Sidr" trees called Sager el
+Emir (the tree of the Emir) or Magrunte.[3] In the gently undulating
+plain there are many daffodils and blue-flowering Iris. The pretty
+meadows then alternated with barley fields, where numerous birds, such
+as larks, large buntings, and quails, are constantly to be seen. From a
+slight elevation we could overlook the whole of the plain stretching
+away beneath us, and in the distance we saw three Bedouin tents, and
+some cows grazing on the rich meadow land. We then passed the road
+leading to Arfeh, about two miles distant, where good water is to be had
+in the very middle of the sand.
+
+[Footnote 3: Large specimens of _Zizyphus Spina-Christi_, Willdenow,
+called "Sidr" in Egypt, where its fruit is called "Nabak." In Palestine,
+the tree is named "Doom," and the fruit "Sidr." Magrunte or Magroonat
+(in Syriac "Madjroonat") means "the female neighbours."]
+
+Fragments of gray granite pillars, still standing, are here to be met
+with about the road, the fields, and the sand, and we saw one lying on
+the ground half buried. On one side stands a "Sidr" tree (see sketch),
+and to the right in the other hollow of the valley is another. The
+pillars are the remains of an ancient temple, Raphia, and are of special
+importance in the eyes of the Arabs, who call them Rafah, as they mark
+the boundary between Egypt and Syria.
+
+[Illustration: SAGER EL EMIR.]
+
+[Illustration: RAFAH COLUMNS.]
+
+We took our midday meal close to the pillars, being now within the Holy
+Land, and after a short rest resumed our journey. Leaving a green
+sloping valley on the left, and passing sandy hills, we went over gently
+undulating grass-land, and saw before us the township of Benishaela,
+situated on the flat crest of a hill. Numerous cows grazing, and flocks
+of kites soaring in the air, enlivened the otherwise monotonous
+landscape.
+
+But here the aspect of the country suddenly changed, and we saw that we
+had entered the Land of Promise. Mud walls, with thorn bushes and
+prickly pears, enclosed the fields, in which almonds, apricots, and
+figs, sycamores, locust, and "Sidr" trees, vied with each other in a
+luxuriance all the more cheering to the eyes of the traveller from the
+barren desert. Passing several small houses built of clay, straw, and
+stones, we reached at three o'clock Khanyunis, the picturesque Kala of
+which seemed to invite our approach. We found that our camps had been
+pitched opposite to it in a field surrounded by opuntias.
+
+The governor Chaker Effendi, whose family were still in El Halil
+(Hebron), where he formerly resided, came to welcome us. He was very
+friendly, and ordered our camp to be guarded by three cavalry and four
+infantry soldiers, who relieved each other every two hours. There were
+one or two negroes amongst them, but the greater number were slim and
+muscular Arabs, and some of them remarkably handsome men. The governor
+personally conducted us afterwards over the Kala. Before describing
+this, however, I must give the reader some general account of
+Khanyunis.
+
+
+
+
+IX.
+
+KHANYUNIS.
+
+
+Khanyunis (or Khan Yunas) is the furthest Syrian place in the direction
+of Egypt, and in some respects the last outpost of the immediate
+authority of the Porte, as El Harish is of that of the Khedive. Between
+the two lies that desert tract in which the Rafah pillars stand,
+indicating the supposed boundary between the two countries. The Bedouin,
+however, wanders at will over the waste land, caring little whether he
+happens to be in Egypt or Syria.
+
+As in El Harish, the Kala constitutes the castle of the place, and is at
+the same time the nucleus around which the other buildings have
+gradually clustered.
+
+Khanyunis is now a pleasant village, but does not at present contain
+more than 1000 inhabitants. Formerly the population was larger, having
+reached 1800, but it has decreased owing to the frequent inroads of the
+Tarabin Bedouins, who only three years ago set fire to the crops of the
+poor villagers. All the Bedouins who haunt the neighbourhood are
+Tarabins. They are generally well provided with horses and asses, some
+of the former being fine animals, of great powers of endurance. Since
+Khanyunis has been supplied with a stronger garrison, they are kept in
+check, and the state of affairs is consequently much improved. There are
+now fifty foot and fifty horse soldiers, almost exclusively sons of the
+desert, who look quite picturesque with their Koufi as head-dress, and
+Arabian costume. They are fine muscular fellows, and extremely courteous
+in manner. The villagers wear the usual South Syrian costume, and are of
+fairly strong build. Some of the boys have two ringlets hanging at the
+sides of their heads,--a fashion not uncommon among the Bedouins. There
+are two schools for the instruction of youth, and, judging from the fact
+that nearly every one can read, they must be well attended.
+
+[Illustration: KALA OF KHANYUNIS.]
+
+The interior of the village presents but a poor appearance, the streets
+being dirty and disfigured by numerous trenches for carrying off the
+rain. The houses, between which lofty palms raise their towering heads,
+are built of mud and stone. The inferior quality of stone consists of
+shell detritus and shale conglomerate from the neighbouring
+sea-shore, and the better material is brought from different ruins,
+sometimes from a distance of ten to twelve hours' journey. The roofs of
+the houses are flat, and over many of the entrances, which have wooden
+lintels, a piece of bone is fixed as a protection against the influence
+of the Evil eye. For the better defence of the inhabitants against the
+incursions of the Bedouins, the houses have loopholes; ventilation is
+provided for by a number of round holes arranged either in rows or
+tasteful designs. As has been said, the principal feature of Khanyunis
+is its Kala (see sketch), which abuts on a broad place or square, the
+left side of which still shows traces of a former enclosure. On either
+side of the entrance is a hall, with a fragment of a pedestal. That on
+the left contains the modest dwelling of the governor, who lives quite
+alone here, with but one servant. The Kala, which is 850 years old, once
+formed a square, at the corners of which were circular towers, with oval
+cupolas, and three embrasures. The two front towers only now remain, the
+back wall having been quite destroyed, and the once enclosed square is
+now filled with a wild confusion of wretched houses, half in ruins,
+which serve the soldiers as a place of habitation. In the centre of the
+front side is a gate with loopholes within the pointed arch, above
+which is a Moorish frieze crowned with lilies. On both sides of the
+gate, and on the broad front wall, are pyramidical battlements with
+tapering ends. Inside the archway is an inscription of Sultan Bargut of
+Cairo, and either side is ornamented with a lion, rudely sculptured in
+relief. Arabic inscriptions are cut in the walls on both sides of the
+gate, and in the gateway itself; no regard having been paid to keeping
+within the stone rows. To the right of the gate, within the Kala, rises
+the octagonal minaret of the mosque, from which is obtained a fine view
+of the ruinous interior, with its labyrinth of dilapidated houses, as
+well as of the whole village. From here four roads can be seen diverging
+from Khanyunis, namely the El Harish road, the road leading to Suez
+_via_ Akaba, the Benishaela road, and lastly, the Gaza road. At the
+entrances to these roads are grouped the houses of the village. Raising
+our eyes towards the horizon we saw the yellow sand-hills which bound
+the plantations towards the sea, strikingly contrasting with the bright
+green trees, and on the other side the rich verdant plain stretching
+away towards Gaza, which may be discerned in the distance. The numerous
+prickly-pear bushes surrounding the village on the Gaza side are a
+conspicuous feature in the landscape.
+
+We now descended to complete our inspection of the Kala. In the interior
+the mosque, with its oval dome, has almost gone to ruin; but the fine
+though simple marble pulpit still stands in good preservation. In the
+midst of the ruins, which have a somewhat picturesque appearance, is a
+house in a very dangerous condition, in consequence of a considerable
+portion of the mosque having fallen on it a short time since.
+Notwithstanding this, however, the people are heedless enough to
+continue occupying it. Only a few steps' distance a lofty palm was
+recently blown down by a violent storm. Thus the works both of man and
+nature meet with a common destruction, the inhabitants not thinking it
+worth while to do the least in the way of repair, or to make the
+slightest attempt to protect themselves against impending danger.
+Lethargy and nonchalance are the leading characteristics of Eastern
+nations, and a certain evidence of the gradual decay of their religion
+and race.
+
+There is another mosque in the village opposite the Kala, but without a
+minaret. From its exterior it is scarcely to be recognised as a Jama.
+Near one of the ruined towers of the Kala's outer enclosure, and at the
+corner of a house on the road to Gaza, stand ancient pedestals, serving
+as seats for the Mayor, Sheik el Beled.
+
+The Souk or Bazaar of Khanyunis is formed by two streets lined with
+wretched Turkish shops, with mud or clay projections for seats. The
+doors are made to flap upward, but they close imperfectly; the roofs
+are, as usual, made of the Artemisia shrub. The goods exposed in these
+shops come for the most part from Gaza and Jaffa; but the caps of
+camel's hair and of cotton, as well as the white and black Syrian
+mantles, are made by the villagers themselves. At the end of the
+village, near the Souk, and on the road to El Harish, is the second
+public well, about 18 fathoms deep, and built entirely of ancient marble
+fragments. At the side is a cistern with cattle-troughs of the same
+material, which evidently belongs to a more flourishing period than the
+present. Somewhat further on, behind a slight hollow with stagnant water
+and a few palm trees, in the Akaba and Suez road, is the burial-ground,
+containing a few whitewashed tombs of step-like construction. At the
+opposite end of the village, where the road is open to the surrounding
+country, we came upon a hollow with embankments, and then took the road
+leading to Benishaela.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Benishaela there are many gardens, which bear
+witness to the extreme fertility of the soil; though unfortunately there
+is not a single well among them. Almonds and apricots are the chief
+productions, and the raised ground enclosing them is often covered with
+small branches of the thorny "Sidr." Near the village we saw several
+"Sidr" trees, as well as tamarisks (Atel) and sycamores. The most
+numerous class are the thorny Opuntias, which grow round some of the
+gardens in rank luxuriance.
+
+The people of Khanyunis do not live exclusively from the cultivation of
+the ground; they are also largely engaged in cattle-breeding, and a
+great many cows are to be seen in the neighbourhood. Of camels there are
+but few; horses, on the other hand, are numerous. I also saw four
+greyhounds of the Syrian breed. As is well known, it is Richard Coeur
+de Lion to whom is ascribed the introduction into the Holy Land of the
+greyhound, which, crossing with the ordinary street dog, originated the
+above-mentioned breed. These dogs were not of pure blood; they were
+spotted white and yellow, with shaggy hair and blue stripes, studded
+with cowries, on their haunches. They are used for hunting gazelles,
+which are frequently caught alive when very young. One of these graceful
+creatures was brought to us and offered for a sum equal to six
+shillings; it was very tame, and we carried it for some distance. But at
+length it died, in consequence, as was said, of having eaten bread,
+which, according to Abou Nabout's assertion, is very unwholesome for
+these animals. The more probable cause was the trying journey it made in
+a basket on a camel's back. There are only a few street dogs in
+Khanyunis; but, as a compensation, any quantity of kites, kestrels, and
+crows, which alight in hundreds on the loftier sidr or sycamore trees in
+the neighbourhood, and may often be seen hovering over the village on
+the look-out for prey and carrion.
+
+
+
+
+X.
+
+FROM KHANYUNIS TO GAZA.
+
+
+The broad sandy road from Khanyunis to Gaza passes for some distance
+through gardens with Opuntia hedges, and embankments crowned with thorn
+bushes. To the left, the gardens extend to sandy hills; and to the right
+as far as Benishaela, a village standing on an elongated hill, and
+containing 500 inhabitants. Behind this is another village called
+Abansan, with many cultivated tracts in the neighbourhood. On the
+uniform hill-range on which Benishaela is situated, and which bounds the
+valley on the land side, is the grave of Sheik Mohammed, at the foot of
+an old tree, and adjoining a small house which serves as the Koubba. To
+the right are the tents of the Bedouins, who are numerous here, and are
+the sole proprietors of the rich meadow lands.
+
+After keeping for some distance to the telegraph posts across the sand,
+we again passed through meadows, and then reached the dry sandy bed of
+a brook called Wadi Selga, bordered on the left by earth banks and on
+the right by meadows. After heavy rainfalls the stream of this brook
+extends from the mountains to the sea.
+
+On the left hand, about half-an-hour's ride from the main road, is the
+village of Der el Belah (enclosure of date-trees), the only one we met
+with before reaching Gaza. It lies in a valley, on a Melleha, which is
+only separated from the sea by a rather low shore, and bounded at the
+lower end by sand and clay hills. The village is recognised from a
+distance by the numerous slender palm trees, which give it a
+particularly charming and picturesque appearance. It contains about 100
+inhabitants, and consists of a few ruinous houses, the mud roofs of
+which are covered with grass. Between the buildings are cultivated
+pieces of ground, fenced with mud walls. Here and there we met with
+fragments of ancient pillars. There is also a rudely-built and
+dilapidated tower, tapering upward, and provided with loopholes, which
+is occasionally occupied by soldiers. To the north of the hamlet there
+is another Melleha, enclosed by beautiful groups of palms, and on the
+seaside by sandy hills. Not far from this a direct road leads from Der
+el Belah to Gaza, but we wished to follow the main road, and
+therefore crossed the hills behind Der el Belah, over green meadows,
+where we saw plenty of daffodils and squills. From the top of the hills
+we had a view of the luxuriant meadows of the valley, where many cows of
+the small South Syrian breed were grazing, and in which we observed an
+old "Sidr" tree, called El Jemeter, near which there are said to be some
+ruins. On the other side we had before us the wide sea, separated from
+the meadows by sand-hills only, on which is a group of trees called Em
+Maharnes.
+
+[Illustration: NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GAZA.]
+
+Having reached the road, we continued to advance across the plain, where
+we met with numerous tents of Tarabin Bedouins and several head of
+cattle. We remained but a short time for breakfast on the open meadow
+land, being anxious to get to Gaza. Soon after we came to the dry sandy
+bed of the Wadi Gaza, and, climbing the low hills lying behind it, we
+could see in the distance the minarets and palms of Gaza, the sight of
+which cheered the last steps of our journey. The town is situated to the
+right, commanded by the Mountar Hill, so called from the Sheik who is
+buried there. This hill is the principal feature in the landscape.
+Leaving to the left the path which we have mentioned as joining the
+main road from Der el Belah, we followed the sandy path along the
+telegraph posts. We then passed through fields and gardens fenced by
+thorny Opuntias, and planted with almonds, figs, olives, sycamores, and
+a few tamarisks, and finally reached the Quarantine Building of Gaza by
+half-past two o'clock.
+
+Here we had to take leave of our camel-drivers; and not without regret
+did I grasp the hand of honest old Daud, who had accompanied me the
+whole distance from El Kantara.
+
+All our superfluous luggage was here disposed of, for we were now in the
+Holy Land, the land of Plenty and Wealth. After a few days' rest in Gaza
+we started again with our horses and mules to make for the third time
+the pilgrimage to Jerusalem.
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO BAZAAR, GAZA.]
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, _Edinburgh_.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Caravan Route between Egypt and
+Syria, by Ludwig Salvator
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