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diff --git a/26342-8.txt b/26342-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9a79d7 --- /dev/null +++ b/26342-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8977 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Chronicles of Strathearn, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Chronicles of Strathearn + +Author: Various + +Illustrator: W. B. Macdougall + +Release Date: August 18, 2008 [EBook #26342] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHRONICLES OF STRATHEARN *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Title page] + + + + + +CHRONICLES of STRATHEARN + + + +WITH ILLUSTRATIONS + +BY + +W.B. MACDOUGALL + + + + +COVER DESIGNED BY + +A. L. RANKIN + + + + + + +CRIEFF + +PUBLISHED BY DAVID PHILIPS + +1896 + + + + +[Transcriber's note: the errata below has been applied to this etext.] + + + +ERRATA + +The arched stone (Forteviot) does not appear, p. 77 having, through +inadvertence, been printed off without allowing space for it. + +In note at the foot of p. 89, "scallop-shel" should be scallop-shell." + +In note at the foot of page 90, "1896" should be "1890." + + + + +CONTENTS + + + +INTRODUCTION + By Rev. JOHN HUNTER, M.A., Crieff. + +CELTIC SAINTS AND ANCIENT CHURCHES OF STRATHEARN + By Rev. JAMES RANKIN, D.D., Muthill. + +NEAR THE PICTISH CAPITAL + By Rev. P. THOMSON, B.D., Dunning. + +THE HISTORIC PRESBYTERY OF AUCHTERARDER + By Rev. G. D. MACNAUGHTAN, B.D., Ardoch. + +MEMORIES OF GASK + By Rev. JAMES MARTIN, Gask. + +AT THE HEAD OF STRATHEARN + By Rev. JOHN MACPHERSON, Comrie. + +ON THE BANKS OF THE DEVON + By Rev. E. B. SPEIRS, B.D., Glendevon. + +BY THE WELL OF ST. FILLAN + By Rev. THOMAS ARMSTRONG, Dundurn. + +THE PLAIN OF THE BARDS + By Rev. A. GORDON, M.A., Monzievaird. + +BETWEEN STRATHALLAN AND STRATHEARN + By Rev. J. MACGIBBON, B.D., Blackford. + +THE ABBEY OF INCHAFFRAY + By Rev. JAMES BROWN, M.A., Maderty. + +A SOUTHERN OUTPOST ON THE EDGE OF THE HIGHLANDS + By Rev. HUGH M. JAMIESON, Monzie. + +THE CASTLE, BARONY, AND SHERIFFDOM OF AUCHTERARDER + By A. G. REID, F.S.A., Scot., Auchterarder. + +AT THE GATE OF THE HIGHLANDS + By Rev. JOHN HUNTER, M.A., Crieff. + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +INCHAFFRAY + +GATEWAY, FOULIS CHURCH + + + + + +[Transcriber's note: The illustration captions below were those in the +source book. The captions above match the actual illustrations.] + +AULD HOUSE OF GASK + +CHURCH GATE AT FOULIS + + + + +PREFACE + +This book has been written in connection with a Bazaar held in Crieff +in the month of August, 1896, for the better endowment of the Parishes +of ARDOCH, CRIEFF WEST, GLENDEVON, and MONZIE. The Editorial Committee +venture to hope that the contents will be of some interest to the +dwellers in Strathearn, especially those within the bounds of the +Presbytery of Auchterarder. The warm thanks of the promoters of the +Bazaar are due to the ladies and gentlemen who composed the various +Committees. To them, as representing many hearty sympathisers and +willing workers, the "CHRONICLES OF STRATHEARN" is respectfully +dedicated. + +In name of the Editorial Committee, + + JOHN HUNTER, M.A., CRIEFF. + HUGH M. JAMIESON, MONZIE. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +THE OPENING UP OF STRATHEARN + +By Rev. JOHN HUNTER, M.A., Crieff + +Quite recently it was said to me by a man who had been holiday-making in +Switzerland, that he greatly missed the Alps in every home landscape. +The remark was made on the Knock of Crieff, one beautiful afternoon in +the late autumn, when the sun was setting and the after-glow lay like a +purple semi-transparent mist all along Glenartney from Ben Ledi to +Comrie. I felt rich enough in the enjoyment of the surpassing loveliness +of our own Strath to say "Laich in"--(I would not hurt any person's +feelings for the world)--"Plague take your Alps, with their sky-scraping +ridges and peaks and winding sheets of snow,--we don't want them here; +they would simply spoil a scene like that before us." I don't know, and +may never know, the meaning my companion read into my silence. Having +shortly before made the frank confession that I had never seen the Alps, +he may have intended to excite envious feelings within me, and imagined +he had succeeded. But I can deny the fact with a good conscience, and +until some benevolent person shall give me the opportunity of making a +comparison between home and foreign landscapes, I shall continue to +assert--happy in my ignorance, it may be, but still happy--that there is +no fairer prospect upon earth than the Strath of Earn from the Knock of +Crieff. "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." + +Let me adventure to describe it. Right opposite to the south-west is +Turleum--rising to the height of 1300 feet--the highest hill in Scotland +wooded to the top, as our local boast was--shorn of its beauty somewhat +in recent years, but, although bare, still picturesque enough with its +comb of sturdy fir-trees, survivors from the destructive gale of +November, 1893. To the right of it, and running due west, is the pass +into the misty hill country by Comrie and St Fillans--the glen of Bonnie +Kilmeny and Dunira. Midway between us and the mouth of the pass is a +miniature Turleum--Tomachastel to wit, the site of the old Castle of the +Earn, famous in the days when the Celtic Earls of Strathearn were a power +in the land. Lovers of the old ways were these proud and wily +Earls--fiercely impatient of the incoming Saxon customs which found +favour at the Court of Malcolm Canmore and his sons--genuinely pious men, +too, in some instances--(did not Earl Gilbert found or endow Inchaffray, +so that masses might be said for his soul?)--of a keen courage as with +Earl Malise, who at the Battle of the Standard dared his mail-clad +fellows--the barons of King David--to show themselves a single foot in +advance of his naked breast. Right worthy and most noble men they were +in their noblest--they were not all so--cherishers of the national spirit +in the dreary times that followed upon the death of Alexander III. at +Kinghorn, like the one who gave a fair daughter of the house and land in +tocher to the son of Sir Andrew Moray, patriot and friend of Wallace, in +whom the Morays of Abercairny find their origin. Such were the men; and +over there on Tomachastel was their home--a place famous then, and very +noticeable still, with its gleaming memorial obelisk to "oor Davie" of +Ferntower, the hardy soldier who overcame the fierce Tippoo Sahib at +Seringapatam. Beyond lie the Aberuchill Hills, with the flat pyramidal +face of Ben Voirlich filling up a gap, and sending its roots, on one +side, down into "lone Glenartney's hazel shade," and, on the other, into +Loch Earn--sixteen miles away. Further off, and only to be seen on rare +days, when the sun's rays are dancing to be dry after rain, are sturdy, +broad-shouldered Benmore, and slender, graceful Binnein, the twin +guardians of the enchanted region beyond, where Beauty lies in the lap of +Terror, and the Atlantic surf sings lullaby. There are the Monzievaird +hills to the right, rising in Benchonzie to the height of 3048 feet, and +to something under this figure in the Cairngorm or Blue Craig, upon which +you see the stone-heap of Cainnechin--memorial, as it is said, of a +battle fought within what are now the policies of Ochtertyre, and as the +result of which Malcolm II. came to the throne of Scotia, having defeated +and slain his rival Kenneth Duff or Don--Kenneth, the swarthy--"at a +place where two valleys meet." Many battles have been fought out in the +Strath, for it must always have been a rich prize; but this one has a +special historical interest, inasmuch as it connects us with one of the +great tragedies in our annals, in which the genius of Shakespeare found +material for one of his masterly delineations of the strange workings of +human passion. It is said that Fraoch, wife of Macbeth Maormor of Moray, +had a good claim to the throne as the grand-daughter of this Kenneth +Duff, and, prompted by ambition and revenge, instigated her husband to +the murder of his Sovereign and guest--the gracious Duncan, grandson of +Malcolm II., at Bothgowan, near Elgin. Loch Turret lies in the gorge +that separates Benchonrie from the Blue Craig. It is likely enough that +the descendants of the wild fowl that Robert Burns scared on the occasion +of his visit to Ochtertyre still nest and pair in the solitude. + +To the left of Turleum is a wider expanse, that carries the eye to the +Moor of Orchill, which overlooks the plain of Ardoch--the Lindum of the +Romans--traditional scene of the battle of Mons Grampus. Some miles away +Stirling finds shelter under its rock,--not visible to us, however, where +we stand, and only audible across the intervening twenty-two miles when +birthday and other honours are paid to Royalty. + +The Ochil range--memorial of fierce volcanic action when the lower old +red sandstone was being deposited in the inland lake which stretched from +east to west across the Lowlands of Scotland, and away southward without +a break to the southern uplands, close to the border of England;--this +Ochil range, which means high ground, as Glenogle means high glen, bounds +our view to the south-east. It has no towering peaks, but Bencleuch and +its neighbour, King Seat, command magnificent panoramic views to north +and south from an elevation of 2000 feet. The gap before us is +Gleneagles,--Glen-eccles--Kirk glen--one of the passes into the Lowlands +of Fife and Kinross, by which, it may be, Agricola found his way into +Strathearn after the conquest of Fife. In the very heart of the Ochils +its name changes from Gleneagles to Glendevon. Here again we are upon +classic ground--in the vale of the clear winding Devon, which more than +any other stream recalls Yarrow with its hills green to the top and its +pastoral melancholy. And let me note the fact that here, too, is the +tiniest and daintiest parish church in Scotland--the outpost of the +Presbytery of Auchterarder in this direction. + +Between us and the gap, but much nearer the gap, is a bit of rising +ground, running eastward almost parallel with the Ochils, with a downward +slope from west to east, upon which may be seen, if the atmosphere is +clear, smoking chimneys and a faint ruddy hue, as if with the memory of +tiles now discarded for the prosaic if more permanent roofing slate. +That is the "lang toon" of Auchterarder, climbing up the slope somewhat +after the fashion of the Canongate and High Street of Edinburgh, not so +conspicuously or hurriedly, however, as if aware that there was no Castle +Rock from which to view the fertile Strath below. An ancient place, +truly, pedigreed, but by no means penniless, the Presbytery seat, famous +in ecclesiastical annals for its creed, crotchets, and conflicts; +resonant, too, in profane history for its fifty drawbridges--the gift of +the imagination and pawky Scotch humour of George Buchanan, Latinist, +publicist, and tutor to that high and mighty Prince, the British Solomon, +James I. of England and VI. of Scotland. The drawbridges are no more, +for the "lang toon" is a burgh now, with a douce Provost of its own, and +Bailies, and such like novel things and persons. But this we cannot tell +from our present standpoint, and we might easily persuade ourselves this +afternoon that Auchterarder has suffered no sea change, were it not that +every now and again the columns of our local newspaper foam under the +rage of its municipal contendings. + +In the far east, the Strath seems to be shut off by the Moncrieffe +Hill--wooded still, as in the days when it was first named. But the Earn +slips between this seeming obstacle and the spurs of the Ochils, making +such haste as it can through carse-like land to join the lordly Tay hard +by Abernethy--the ancient capital of the Southern Picts--the centre of +missionary enterprise, when darkness was thick upon the land after Ninian +had died at Whithorn, on the Solway, and before Columba had set foot upon +Iona. The valley at our feet, the limits of which I have attempted to +mark off, is Strathearn--a right noble expanse of fertile soil, richly +wooded, abundantly watered, dotted over with villages and guardian Parish +Churches, like that of Muthill; bright with Castles that have left their +names in history, and with mansion-houses of hardly less fame, that gleam +from among their ancestral trees--a Strath that may be fitly +characterised as the Scottish Esdraelon, in which many things have +happened, and many men have been well worthy of being held in remembrance. + +I had intended in this paper to give an account of some early inroads +into Strathearn, but the exigencies of space have determined for me that +I can deal with only one--the earliest of all--the Roman invasion. I +should have liked to have told the story of the invasion by Egfrid of +Northumbria, which ended so disastrously for him at Nechtansmere--most +likely Dunnichen, in Forfarshire, in the year 685 A.D., and of which it +may well be that we have a solitary trace in the name Abercairny--plainly +identical with Abercornig--Abercorn in the Lothians--where the Angles +founded a monastery under Abbot Trumuini, who, being engaged in +Strathearn advocating the adoption of the Roman in opposition to the +prevalent Columban cult, had to beat a hasty retreat beyond the Forth +when disaster came to Egfrid. The larger subject would have included +also the invasion by Siward, Earl of Northumberland, in support of the +claims of Prince Malcolm, afterwards Malcolm Canmore, in opposition to +Macbeth, the usurper, as he is commonly, perhaps unfairly, called. The +first stage of the inroad ended with an encounter at Tula Amon--at the +junction of the Tay and the Almond, near Perth. The result was not +decisive, for it would seem that for a little while Macbeth kept +possession of the country north of the Forth, being especially strong in +Fife, where he had powerful family connections and friends in the Culdee +brotherhood at Lochleven, while Malcolm reigned in the Lothians. And a +little later, in connection with the complications into which Malcolm was +forced through his fortunate marriage with Margaret, sister of the +Atheling, we have traces--somewhat indistinct, truly, but still +historical--of an inroad by the grim conqueror of England--William, and +of a meeting between him and Malcolm at Forteviot. All this might have +proved instructive in detailed exposition, but I must content myself with +this condensed reference. My subject is, therefore, the earliest +historical inroad into Strathearn--the Roman inroad, which I have called, +in the heading of this paper, the Opening Up of Strathearn. + +Everybody knows that Julius Caesar set foot in Britain and conducted a +campaign against the native tribes in 55-54 B.C. He made no permanent +impression. But successive expeditions were sent out, and the tide of +conquest flowed further and further east and west and north till it +reached the Solway. The details of the conflict do not concern us here. +But it would be unpardonable to omit mentioning Boadicea, Queen of the +Iceni, in the East, and of Caractacus, leader of the Silures, in the +West, both of whom offered strenuous opposition to the Roman advance. +The powerful tribe of the Brigantes, who possessed the country between +the Humber and the Solway, made a stout defence in the North, but by the +year 70 A.D. the Roman province was coterminous with the present southern +boundary of Scotland. It was now that the Romans heard the name of a new +tribe--the Caledonian Britons, who, according to report, lived upon fish +and milk, clearly indicating a less advanced stage of civilisation than +that of the tribes they had encountered hitherto. The unexplored +territory in which they dwelt was vaguely called Thule. Tacitus, the +historian, and son-in-law of Julius Agricola--the discoverer of +Strathearn--imagined it to be an island formed by the meeting of the +Firths of Forth and Clyde. But the time was now come when more accurate +information was to be obtained concerning Caledonia and its inhabitants. +Some external characteristics had been noted. The Caledonians were +described as Caerulei, from the green colour with which they stained +their bodies. It was also said that they fought with chariots like the +Britons of the interior, whom Caesar heard of 125 years before. + +Julius Agricola was the man who first brought the Caledonians within the +ken of distinct history. He came to Britain in 78 A.D. His first +campaign was on the Welsh border, his second in the territory of some +outlying Brigantian tribes along the northern shores of the Solway. +These were the Selgovae, who occupied what is now the county of Dumfries, +and the Novantes further to the west in the modern counties of +Kirkcudbright and Wigton. To the north of these lay the great nation of +the Damnonii--of the same stock as those who occupied Devonshire in the +south of England. They held extensive territories in the centre of +Scotland, including the counties of Ayr, Lanark, Renfrew, south of the +Firths of Forth and Clyde, and, north of these estuaries, the counties of +Dumbarton and Stirling and the districts of Menteith, Stratherne, and +Forthreve, or the western half of the peninsula of Fife. They were the +"novae gentes," or new nations, whose territories Agricola ravaged as far +as the "Tavaus," or Tay, in his third campaign. They were somewhat +civilised, having towns, of which we know the names of six--three lying +south of and three north of the Firths. The chief of the southern towns +was Coria--Carstairs, near Lanark, on the Clyde. North of the Forth +there were Alauna, where the Allan joins the Forth; Lindum--that is +Ardoch, at our own doors; and Victoria, in Fife, situated on a small +lake. The lake has disappeared, but the name Lochore remains, and is +otherwise famous than as a town of the Damnonii. The natural division +line between the Selgovae, Novantes, and Damnonii was the hilly country +which separates the waters that flow north from those that find their way +into the Solway--the Ituna Aestuarium, as its name then was. Crossing +this mountain barrier, Agricola struck into the valley of the Clyde, +passed with his legions through Lanarkshire and Stirlingshire, then by +the fords of the Forth and the Vale of the Allan into Strathearn, thence +onward to the Tay. There was an alternative route. A fleet accompanied +his movements. He might have crossed the Firth of Forth--the Bodotria +Aestuarium--and penetrated through Fife to the Tay. But Tacitus usually +mentions the crossing of estuaries, and he omits it in this case. +Besides, he states that the natives on the north shore of the Forth were +new to him in the fifth campaign. + +It was, therefore, in the year 80 A.D., during his third campaign, that +Agricola entered Strathearn by way of Alauna. He did not effect a +permanent conquest. His operations rather resembled a reconnaisance in +force. But he meant serious business. He planted forts in commanding +situations, choosing so wisely, from a strategic point of view, that not +one of them was ever taken or surrendered. They were placed so as to +command the principal passes into the Highlands. They form a ring-fence +round the territory hastily overrun by Agricola in this third campaign. +Beginning in the west with Bochastle, at the Pass of Leny, near +Callander, we come successively to Dalginross, at Comrie; Fendoch, at the +mouth of the Sma' Glen; the camp at the junction of the Almond and the +Tay; and, Ardargie, in the parish of Forgandenny, on the River May, +commanding an extensive prospect of the Ochils, and along the course of +the road from the Tay to the great camp at Ardoch. Here was evidently +the base of operations, with accommodation, if need arose, for the entire +Roman army in Scotland. + +Having thus viewed the land and pegged out his claim by means of forts, +Agricola returned to winter quarters. In the following summer--the +summer of 81 A.D., he made no forward movement. But he was meditating a +great enterprise--no less an enterprise than to penetrate beyond the Tay +and break the power of the Caledonians in their remote fastnesses. It +behoved him to be cautious, so he constructed the chain of forts which +afterwards became the Wall of Antonine--from Borrowstonness, on the +Forth, to Old Kilpatrick, on the Clyde. Meantime he was laying his plans +with admirable foresight. He entrusted the forts in Strathearn to the +courage of their slender garrisons, and the issue proved that he could do +so safely. But there was unexplored territory westward and eastward. +Nobody knew what dangers might be lurking there, ready to assail him in +rear the moment he left the security of his fortified place. So we find +him in the summer of 82 A.D., in Argyll and Kintyre, with a small force, +not fighting so much, as simply exploring, at one point feasting his +Roman eyes, greedy for conquest, upon the coast of Ireland, seen dimly in +the distance, and perhaps scheming in his heart and head to add it also +at a fitting time to the Roman domains. + +Returning from the west country, Agricola entered upon the campaign of +three years' duration, which issued in the Battle of Mons Grampus, the +crowning glory of his arms in Scotland, and the immediate occasion of his +recall. He chose the alternative route this time. From his chain of +forts he could see the broad expanse of the Firth of Forth, the coast of +Fife, the central Lomonds, and the distant hill-country, whose +acquaintance he had already made. That distant point was the goal of his +endeavour, and the shortest way to it was across the Firth of Forth, +through the western division of Fife, and on by one of the Ochil +passes--Glendevon, or some other further east into Strathearn. There was +no time to lose. For, while he was engaged in the subjugation of Fife, +the fleet, after exploring the harbours, had doubled the East Neuk, +passed safely through St Andrews Bay, and entered the Firth of Tay. Its +unexpected appearance caused the greatest consternation among the +Caledonians. The immediate result was to greatly increase the peril in +which the devoted garrisons in Strathearn stood. So great was their +danger, and so well was it known, that there were those with Agricola who +advised a retreat to the chain of forts between the Firths. But Agricola +was not to be shaken in his resolve, which was to finally break the power +of the tribes who dwelt to the north and east of the Grampians, and who, +so long as they remained free and unchastised, were a standing menace to +the Strath of the Earn and to the garrisons who held it at the hazard of +their lives. He formed a camp to winter in at a place called Grassy +Walls, on the east side of the Tay, near to Perth. But there was still +time, before the winter set in, for a little exploration and a brush with +the enemy to revive the courage of his soldiers, which had begun to droop +a little. Advancing northward on the left bank of the river, Agricola +reached the Isla, and not caring to cross it so late in the year, in the +face of the enemy who were massed upon the Hill and Muir of Blair beyond, +he diverged to the right, following the course of the Isla until he came +to the place where Coupar Angus stands now. Here he paused. He had +marched from Perth in three divisions to prevent surprise, and in this +neighbourhood there are three positions marked by Roman remains that +correspond with these divisions. The main force was stationed at Coupar +Angus; the Ninth Legion at Lintrose, two miles south-east; a third small +body at a place two miles south-west, overlooking the Tay, and guarding +the passage. These details are important, as helping to determine the +true site of the Battle of Mons Grampus. It may be taken for granted +that the Roman General made good use of his opportunity to survey the +ground upon which the decisive battle was fought. Before retiring to +winter quarters at Grassy Walls, the Roman soldiers had a chance given +them of testing the strength and valour of the Caledonians. The Ninth +Legion was stationed at Lintrose, and here the enemy delivered their +attack under cover of night. They had penetrated into the camp ere they +were discovered, and it might have gone hard with the Legion if help had +not been at hand. But the alarm quickly spread to where Agricola was +stationed with the main body. On his arrival the Caledonians took to +flight. With the first touch of winter the march southward was begun, +and when the summer came the legionaries and the auxiliaries clamoured +impatiently to be led northward to the final encounter. + +The theory maintained in this paper regarding the last campaign of +Agricola, and the site of the Battle of Mons Grampus was first broached +in the Statistical Account of the parish of Bendochy, published in 1797. +It has been since adopted by Skene in his classical work on Celtic +Scotland, to which I desire in this place to acknowledge my great +indebtedness. Other sites have been fixed upon, but there are none that +can fairly be put in comparison with the neck of land at the junction of +the Isla with the Tay. What may be called the traditional view of the +site of the battle locates it at Ardoch, in the vicinity of the great +camp. No doubt, good authorities can be quoted in favour of the +correctness of the traditional view. But there are several reasons which +render it highly improbable that the great battle was fought at Ardoch. +The very name Mons Grampus implies the existence of some conspicuous +eminence in the near neighbourhood. There is no such eminence near +Ardoch. Further, we know that Agricola's scheme of operation embraced +joint action on the part of the fleet and land forces. There could have +been no such co-operation if the movement of the legions had been west of +the Tay. And it is a fatal objection to the Ardoch site that there are +not three stations corresponding to those which we have seen the three +divisions of Agricola's force occupied on the night of the surprise. +General Roy, indeed, has tried to turn the edge of this objection by +placing the Ninth Legion at Dalginross, the main body under Agricola at +Ardoch, and the other division at Strageath, overlooking and guarding the +Earn. But it has been retorted upon him that Agricola could have made no +worse disposition of his forces, from a strategic point of view, than to +have stationed his weakest division at Comrie, nine miles distant from +the main body, in the very heart of the enemy's country, close to the +hills, from which they could rush down upon any favourable opportunity, +and to which they could retreat in the event of a repulse. + +Besides, help came from the main body in the course of a few +hours--between night and morning. It would be a difficult task even now +for a body of men to cover the ground between Ardoch and Comrie in the +dead of night; and we must remember that in the time of Agricola the +country was a pathless wild, rough with woods in the higher parts, and +covered with treacherous morasses in the valleys. The Damnonii--within +whose territories Ardoch, Comrie, and Strageath lay--were more highly +civilised than the Caledonians beyond the Tay and the Grampian range. +They had towns, as we have seen; they probably engaged to some extent in +agriculture; their food did not altogether consist of fish, milk, and the +produce of the chase. But their towns were few and far between, and the +means of communication very imperfect. The native tribes were not +road-makers, and the Romans had not been long enough in possession, nor +had leisure been granted them to form the solid and straight lines of +communication upon which, everywhere, their power was based. We have +Roman roads in Strathearn, and I daresay a careful student of the +district could walk every foot of the way from Ardoch to Perth along +these roads--street-roads, they are called locally, as I discovered one +night to my surprise on making inquiries as to the shortest route between +the manses of Gask and Trinity-Gask. But these roads were not in +existence when the Battle of Mons Grampus was fought. Much rough +pioneering work had to be gone through ere it was possible to lay them +down. Meantime, the respective positions of the Romans and Caledonians +had changed somewhat. The tide of conquest did not remain at the +high-water mark of Agricola's advance. The Roman garrisons were +withdrawn from Strathearn and from Ardoch. The Wall of Hadrian, between +the Solway and the Tyne, was substituted for the frontier chain of forts +between the Forth and Clyde, and, in consequence, the native tribes kept +pressing ever southward. Hadrian's Wall checked their progress, but +their presence in ever-increasing numbers was a danger to the province. +They had now come to be known as the Caledonii and the Meatae--the men of +the hills and the men of the plains. At length the spirit of Rome +revived in the Emperor Severus, who determined to revisit the scene of +Agricola's early conquests. He came to Britain in 208 A.D., fully one +hundred and twenty years after the Battle of Mons Grampus had been fought +and won. He moved slowly, but did his work effectively. It was a costly +process both in treasure and human life; but, from the point of view of +permanent conquest, it was well done. Roads were formed, bridges built, +and the habits of civilisation introduced into the wilds of Strathearn, +and far away in the North. For, marching by way of Forfar, Kincardine, +and Aberdeen, Severus reached the Moray Firth, and got from the +Caledonians a cession of land to the north of the Tay. It has been +conjectured that he returned south by way of Fortingall and Fendoch and +Ardoch, where are Roman remains of a peculiar kind, of which no more +satisfactory explanation can be given than that they mark the sites of +his stations. Severus was borne on a litter in his northward march, +frail and aged. He accomplished his purpose, but the undertaking was +greater than his strength had warranted. He died at York in 211 A.D. + +But to return to Agricola--to whom the honour belongs of opening up +Strathearn. He had gone into winter quarters near Perth, after his +autumn expedition to the Isla. All hesitation had vanished from the +minds of his soldiers. They were impatient to try conclusions with the +barbarian Caledonians; and so soon as the season permitted, the camp was +broken up. They retraced their steps to the Isla, and found the enemy +occupying the old position on the lower slopes of the Hill of +Blair--battle-hill; probably so called in memory of the big fight now +impending. It was a well-chosen position, showing no little military +skill on the part of Galgacus, the Caledonian chief. From the foot of +the hill a plain extended southward to the junction of the rivers. The +Isla bounded the plain on the east, while a series of morasses, moors, +and small lochs stretched to the west, in the direction of the Grampian +range. Upon their defeat, the Caledonians made their escape this way. +The Roman army boldly crossed the Isla this time, and began to throw up +entrenchments. Traces of a rampart are to be seen extending from +Meikleour on the Tay across country to the Isla. In connection with this +a fort was constructed and a triangular bit of ground enclosed, capable +of containing the whole force. The local name of the rampart is Cleaven +Dykes, and all the while the Caledonians were gathering from all +parts--from the distant Highlands and from the siege of the Strathearn +forts. The Buzzard Dykes, on the lower slopes of the Hill of Blair, +marks their position. At length they thought themselves strong enough to +begin the attack. A defensive policy would have been wiser. But the +concentrated power of a trained army--the very regularity of its motions +always draws the attack of a less highly disciplined force. Probably the +Caledonians deceived themselves into thinking that fear was the cause of +the inaction of their opponents. It was not so. Agricola had come so +far in order to fight, and his soldiers were impatient to be led against +the enemy. They had gained confidence from the experience of the year +before--they were hungry as wolves for the honour of victory. They knew +that upon their valour depended the lives of their fellow-soldiers, who +had been fighting for well nigh four years against tremendous odds away +west in Strathearn. And when the Caledonians came on, Agricola promptly +advanced to meet them, having 8000 auxiliaries in his first line, +protected on the wings by 3000 cavalry. The legionaries were stationed +behind these--veteran Roman soldiers, upon whose steadiness he could rely +if there should come repulse and panic. The rampart at Meikleour was in +the rear of the reserve force--to serve as a last defence if the worst +happened. Agricola himself went to the front with the colours. As +usual, the battle began with a discharge of missiles from a distance. +The darts and stones flew thick, and all the while the Caledonians were +edging away to right and left in the hope of surrounding the Romans. +Agricola strained his thin line almost to breaking point, but his +opponents had the advantage of numbers, and still pressed him. The +danger of a gaping centre grew imminent. The crisis of the conflict +came. Three Batavian and two Tungrian cohorts charged sword in hand. +The issue was not long in doubt. The small shields and long swords of +the Caledonians were ill-fitted to encounter the straight home-thrust of +the finely-tempered blade, 19 inches in length, with which the Roman +soldiers were armed. They wavered, and then the end came quickly. The +whole line of the auxiliaries charged uphill and carried everything +before them, and although the war chariots, armed with scythe-blades, +were brought into action, they did more harm than good. The ground was +rough, and unsuitable for the effective use of these murderous weapons of +warfare. Their own men, now in hopeless confusion, were the chief +sufferers from them. And although the Caledonian reserve succeeded in +getting behind the Roman first line, they were promptly checked by a +cavalry attack. It was never necessary to bring the Roman reserves of +legionary soldiers into action. The fight was over, and the Caledonians +sought safety in headlong flight among the morasses which stretched +westward in the direction of the Grampian range. + +Agricola did not push his advantage further. He was content with the +victory he had gained, He could now hope that there would be peace in +Strathearn, bringing with it the opportunity of extending the boundary of +the Roman province to the Tay. His eager Roman spirit was planning other +enterprises. He had seen the coast of Ireland from Kintyre, and +doubtless courted the distinction of annexing it to the Empire. One +can't help thinking what a pity it was that the opportunity of doing so +was not given him. Had the distressful country got the benefit of the +firm and civilising Roman rule, a happier history might have been hers. +From his winter quarters behind the Firths of Forth and Clyde, Agricola +sent his fleet to explore the distant northern parts. His sailors +visited and took possession of the Orkney Islands--sighted a distant +peak, which became the "Ultima Thule" of history; noted the peculiar +feature of the West Coast of Scotland--the sea-lochs now so well known to +the tourists of every land; circumnavigated the island till they reached +the Trutulensian harbour--Dover, as we call it now; and then returned to +their station in the Firth of Forth. It was not permitted to Agricola to +turn the information thus acquired to practical use. His brilliant +success in Scotland had excited the jealousy of the Emperor Domitian, and +he was recalled under the pretence of appointing him to a higher command. +The traces of him in Strathearn and elsewhere were speedily obliterated. +The Roman province shrank to the wall of Hadrian between Tyne and +Sol-way; civilisation was beaten back, and kept back for four generations. + + + + +CELTIC SAINTS AND + +ANCIENT CHURCHES OF STRATHEARN + + + S. FILLAN, DUNDURN + S. RONAN, STROWAN + S. BEAN, KINKELL AND FOULIS + S. SERF, DUNNING AND MONZIEVAIRD + S. KESSOG, COMRIE AND AUCHTERARDER + S. PATRICK, STROGEATH + S. FERGUS, MUTHILL + S. CATTAN, ABERUTHVEN + S. BRIDE, ABERNETHY + + +CELTIC SAINTS AND ANCIENT CHURCHES OF STRATHEARN + +By Rev. JAMES RANKIN, D.D., Muthill + +The vale or strath of the Earn may best and simplest be said to extend +from the head of Loch Earn along the course of the River Earn to its +junction with the Tay, two and a quarter miles above Newburgh. The +distance from top to bottom as the crow flies is about thirty-six miles, +and the direction is very nearly due west and east. The valley may be +sub-divided into four portions. The uppermost is Loch Earn itself, which +is six and a half miles long and 306 feet above sea-level, so that the +descent of the river in its thirty miles of course is not much. The +surface of Loch Earn, James' Square in Crieff, and the Manse of Muthill, +across the valley, are as nearly as possible on the same level. The Earn +may be sectioned as follows:--From Loch Earn to the Bridge of Comrie; +thence to the Bridge of Crieff; thence to the Bridge of Kinkell; thence +to Bridge of Earn; thence to junction of Earn with Tay. For our present +purpose we may stop near Forteviot, at the Earn boundary of the +Presbytery of Auchterarder. + +Before we can rightly appreciate the more or most ancient Christian +history of the Strath, we require to lay aside, and partly reverse, +certain modern associations as to lines of travel. We think of +Strathearn as running westward from Auchterarder, which lies on both the +turnpike and railway route from Stirling to Perth. But in the days of +our early Christianity it was mainly the sea on each coast that joined +north and south of Scotland; whereas the more frequented routes were +across country from west to east, because the west was then the seat of +government and source of culture. Our early Christianity came from +Ireland, and the route was by the Firth of Clyde, where Kintyre, Arran, +Cumbrae, Bute, Kilmun, Dumbarton, Luss, and Balquhidder were all already +provided with places of worship. The Vale of Leven and Loch Lomond were +the natural approaches from the west to the upper end of Loch Earn and +Strathearn. Another route connecting Perthshire with Iona was by Loch +Etive, Dalmally, Tyndrum, and Glendochart. But the Leven and Loch Lomond +route, judging by the saints to whom the oldest churches were dedicated, +was the actual one usually traversed in reaching the valley of the Earn. + +The oldest settlement is that of S. Fillan, at Dundurn. His day in the +Kalendar is June 22, and he died about 520 A.D. Dundurn=Dun d'Earn. In +the martyrology of Donegal (for he was a pure Irish Celt) he is called of +Rath Erann--_i.e._, the fort on the Earn. Besides the old chapel and +burial-ground, a memorial of the Saint is in Dunfillan, where are his +chair and well. A fine eye for the picturesque the good man must have +had to select a hill of so striking aspect and commanding so charming a +landscape as Dunfillan. A little later Dunfillan became a king's seat or +fort. S. Fillan is called _an lobar_, leper, or perhaps stammerer, to +distinguish him from S. Fillan the abbot, connected with Strathfillan and +Killin, whose day is January 9, and who died about 703, nearly 200 years +after his namesake the leper. He of Dundurn was of the race of AEngus, +King of Munster, and was trained under S. Ailbe of Emly. Dr. Marshall, +in his "Historic Scenes in Perthshire," in company with several other +writers, mixes up the two S. Fillans. Bishop Forbes, in his "Kalendars +of Scottish Saints," gives a clear account of each, mentioning that +Aberdour, in Fife, is dedicated to him of Dundurn, as was also Cill or +Kil-Faelin, in Leinster. + +Tullichettle and Comrie may be taken together, the distance between them +being only one mile; the former meaning "The Vale of Sleep," now known +mainly by its little kirkyard, having once been the more important of the +two. The proof of this is seen in an extract from the Register of +Ministers and Readers in the Miscellany of the Wodrow Society. In 1574, +where our Presbytery has now sixteen parishes, there were only four +ministers and sixteen readers, thus grouped:--Auchterarder--Stipend, +£100, and kirk-lands--had readers at Auchterardour, Kinkell, Abirruthven, +and Dunnyng. Strogeith--£60, and kirk-lands--had readers at Strogeith, +Muthill, and Strowane. Foulis--£80, and kirklands--had readers at +Foulis, Madertie, Trinite-Gask, and Findo-Gask. Tullichettil--£100, and +kirk-lands--had readers at Tullichettil, Cumrie, Monivaird, Monzie, and +Crieff. The system of readers was a beggarly makeshift for the Christian +ministry, and shows the sore straits to which the Reformed Church was +reduced after what was supposed to be the grand victory of 1560. Then +Tullichettle was more than Comrie, as Strageath was more than Muthill. +The dedication of Tullichettle does not appear in any record that I have +seen, but that of Comrie is evident from its fair, which bears the name +of S. Kessog. There is also a Tom-na-chessaig, just behind the old Free +Church, now a public hall. The old name has a modern recognition in a +local Freemasons' Lodge of S. Kessack. What is known of the Saint is +given further on under Auchterarder. + +Downwards on Earn the next ancient riverside church is Strowan, which, +being a small parish, was united to Monzievaird before 1662. The site is +one of remarkable beauty and quiet, almost ideal as a place of worship +and burial. Ronan or Rowan was a bishop and confessor under King +Maldwin, Feb. 7, 737, according to Adam King's Kalendar. He was of +Kilmaronen or Kilmaronoc, in Lennox. Other dedications to him are +Kilroaronag, in Muckairn; Teampull Ronan of Ness, in Lewis; Port Ronan, +in Iona. At his death in 737 A.D., S. Ronan was abbot of Kingarth, in +Bute. Connected with the church of Strowan is a Ronan pool on the Earn, +and a bell remains from the old days. An adjacent farm is called Carse +of Trowan. + +The old church of Monzievaird on the east avenue to Ochtertyre, and now +the private burial-place of the Murrays, is dedicated to S. Serf. But +his legend may be reserved till we reach Dunning, at the end of our +narrative. + +The next in order of the old Celtic Churches on the Earn is that at +Strogeit, or usually Strageath. This church and churchyard are close on +the Earn, at a very picturesque spot, where are two very old mills--one +on each side of the river--and a mill-dam between, and serving for both. +The church is dedicated to S. Patrick, of Ireland, and was planted by an +Irish missionary called S. Fergus. + +Patricius was bishop and confessor--his day of death and commemoration, +March 17, 493. He was the son of Calphurnius, a Roman decurio or +magistrate at Dumbarton, his mother being Conkessa, sister or niece of +the great S. Martin of Tours. He was born at Kilpatrick, on the Clyde, +and called Succat=Succoth, the name of a neighbouring estate. At +sixteen, Patrick was carried off to Ireland by pirates, and sold to a +chief, Michul of Antrim, where he served six years, when he escaped to +Scotland. He then went to S. Germanus of Auxerre for forty (more +probably four) years' study. After becoming monk with his uncle S. +Martin, he visited Rome, and was sent to Ireland, where he laboured sixty +years, consecrating 365 churches and bishops, and ordaining 300--some say +3000--presbyters. Writings of S. Patrick are his "Confessions"--"Hymn +before Tara," called "Breastplate," in eleven verses, and "Letter to +Caroticus, Caradoc, or Ceretic Guledig," from whom the kings of Alcluith, +Patrick's birthland, were descended. (See Christian Classics--The +Writings of Patrick, the Apostle of Ireland. Religious Tract Society, +London.) S. Patrick's churches in Scotland are sixteen, of which three +are in Muthill--viz., Strogeit, on the Earn; S. Patrick's, at +Blairinroar; and S. Patrick's, at Struthill; each of the two latter +having a S. Patrick's Well, anciently used in baptism. At Blairinroar, +five miles west from Muthill, two or three cot-houses still bear the name +S. Patrick's, but I don't know that the site of the original chapel is +identifiable. At Struthill, two miles south of Muthill, both chapel +walls and ancient burial-ground remained till about 50 years ago, when +they were shamefully turned--the one into dyke material, and the +consecrated soil and remains into top-dressing for corn land. The sacred +well was also run off into a drain, and the site marked by a modern +cattle trough. The burial-ground at Strageath is still in use, but the +corner stones of the old church have been brutally abstracted for use in +neighbouring buildings. These desecrations ill agree with what is truly +stated by my predecessor in the New Statistical Account, that "the +inhabitants of Muthill, until very lately (_i.e._, about 1835), held S. +Patrick's name in so high veneration that on his day (March 17) neither +the clap of the mill was heard nor the plough seen to move in the +furrow." Across the Earn from Strageath is a farm called Dalpatrick, and +a ford known as Dalpatrick Ford. + +This well-deserved honour to the patron saint of Ireland is traceable +here to the presence of one of his disciples and countrymen, S. Fergus, +whose work, however, must have been about 150 years after S. Patrick's +death. After his work of chapel building in Muthill, S. Fergus quitted +his hermitage at Strageath and went northward to Caithness and Buchan, on +the same gospel errand, where, after good work again, he moved southwards +to Glamis, the scene of his death and burial. The churches dedicated to +him are six--viz., Wick, Halkirk, S. Fergus or Lungley, Inverugy, S. +Fergus, at Banff; Dyce. Glamis has S. Fergus' cave and well. There was +a S. Fergus chapel in the church of Inchbrayock, at Montrose, and a +chapel and well at Usan, three miles south-east of Montrose. His head +was preserved at Scone in a silver casket, his arm in a silver casket at +Aberdeen, and his staff, baculus or bachul, at S. Fergus, in Buchan. In +721, _Fergustus Epis. Scotiae Pictus_ signed at Rome canons as to +irregular marriages. He belonged to the party that conformed to Rome as +distinguished from the strict adherents of the old Celtic ritual. + +About one mile below Strageath is the old Collegiate Church of +Innerpeffray, dedicated to S. Mary, mentioned in 1342, and made +collegiate in 1508 by the first Lord Drummond. But as this belongs to a +later ecclesiastical system (1200-1560) it may be passed over for the +present. + +About two miles lower than Innerpeffray is Kinkell Church, dedicated to +S. Bean. Here we come on a group of three, the next being Aberythven, +three miles east of Kinkell, dedicated to S. Cathan; and Auchterarder, +one mile south of Aberuthven, dedicated to S. Makessock. These three +churches, along with Strageath and Madderty, have this in common at a +later date--viz., 1200 A.D., that they were granted by Earl Gilbert of +Strathearn and his Countess Matildis, as endowment to the newly-founded +Abbey of Inchaffray. A few years later the Church of S. Bean of Foulis +and the Church of the Holy Trinity of Gasc were added to the same +endowment. Although now desolate, and appearing as a pendicle to an +adjacent farm-steading, the old Kirk of Kinkell occupies a beautiful site +in the valley, on a knoll, close by the river, and the kirkyard is still +occasionally used. S. Bean, who was bishop and confessor, died about +920, and his day in the Kalendar is 26th October. He was uncle of S. +Cadroe, who was taught at Armagh, and whose mission in Scotland marks the +origin of the Culdees, strictly so-called, as is traced in Skene's Celtic +Scotland, II., 346, in connection with Kinkell and Abernethy. + +Particularly interesting is the Church of Aberuthven, now in the parish +of Auchterarder. The eastern end of the building is evidently of extreme +antiquity, with two narrow windows, between which would stand the altar, +probably of stone. The dedication was to S. Cathan or Cattanus, bishop, +May 17, 710. Cathan was uncle of S. Blain, of Bute, whom he ordained and +consecrated bishop. Cathan is most closely associated with Bute, his +original chapel having been on the south side of Kilchattan Bay. Cattan, +the Pict, planted a church in Gigha, then went to Colonsay, which has +another S. Cattan's, and to Iona, and settled at Scarinche, in Lewis, +where his remains were preserved, and where, after Bannockburn (1314), a +church was built and dedicated to S. Cattan, and affiliated to +Inchaffray. There was also a Clan Chattan. (See Hewison's Bute, I., +136-8.) + +Kessog, Kessogus, or Makessock, was born at Cashel, the capital of +Munster, of the line of the Kings of Ireland, and miracles are attributed +to his early years. He is depicted with bow and arrow as patron of the +warriors of Leven and patron saint of Cumbrae. He lived as hermit in the +island of Inch-ta-vanach, in Loch Lomond, and was martyred at Luss, where +a cairn, Cam Machaisog, remained till 1796. (Anderson's Early Christian +Times, I., 212). His day is 10th March, and the date of martyrdom, 520. +Coming between the times of S. Patrick and S. Columba, S. Kessog and +several saintly contemporaries are the fruits of the fervour of the +former and the pioneers of the latter. The doctrines and rites of these +earlier missionaries are described in Hewison's Bute, I., 118-131. S. +Kessog's bell was preserved and honoured in Lennox in the 17th century. +Besides Auchterarder, the Churches of Comrie, Callander, Luss, and +Cumbrae were dedicated to S. Kessog. Callander has a fair on the 21st +March=10th March (old style), called Fel-ma-chessaig, and the site of the +old kirk, on a conical hill, is called Tom-na-chessaig. Cumbrae has a +Kessog's Fair on the third Wednesday in March. Kessog Ferry, at +Inverness, is another memorial of the Saint; so is the Strathearn name of +M'Isaac, Makisaig, and Kessack. The old Kirk of S. Makessok lies in a +hollow to the north of modern Auchterarder, whose church dates only from +about 1660, and was enlarged in 1811. Makessock's Well still exists on +the farm of East Kirkton, beside the old glebe and manse, which are now +part of that farm, having been "excambed" about 1800. + +There is a dedication to S. Mungo connected with Auchterarder, but as it +seems not to have been a distinct building, we may consider it to have +been only an altar, or side chapel, in the Church of S. Makessog. (The +evidence for the S. Mungo dedication is "Historians of Scotland, Vol. V., +p. xc."; also New Statistical Account, Perth, 290.) Craigrossy paid dues +to S. Mungo's altar in Glasgow. (Historians of Scotland, V., 357, and +Orig. Par., I., 2.) The name Mungo has a marked currency in Strathearn. +I have known six examples. + +Before passing to Dunning, allusion may be made to Gask and Trinity-Gask, +both of which are bounded by the Earn, the latter especially to a great +extent. Gask was anciently known as Findo-Gask, the dedication being to +S. Findoka, Fincana, or S. Fink, one of the nine daughters of S. Donevald +or Donaldus, who led a religious life in the Glen of Ogilvie, in +Forfarshire. S. Donevald's day is 12th July, and he died in 712. The +Churches of Bendochy and Innishail (in Glenorchy) were also dedicated to +S. Fink; while Finhaven, Strathmartin, and Touch were dedicated to S. +Donevaldus. Trinity-Gask is mentioned under this name in a charter of +Inchaffray shortly after 1200. To the Holy Trinity was a favourite +dedication of the Culdees, who held firmly by the Apostles' Creed. The +Cathedral of Brechin was dedicated by King Kenneth (971-995) to the Holy +Trinity, and Culdee abbots continued in Brechin till 1219, although the +See was founded in 1150 by David I., and re-dedicated to the Trinity. +Thus the very name carries back the Church of Trinity-Gask to the times +of the Culdees, if not to the Celtic Church directly. + +The patron saint of Dunning is S. Servanus or Serf, who appears in the +Kalendar as bishop and confessor, his day being July 1. He is said to be +the son of Alma, daughter of a Pictish King; was ordained by Palladius, +and dwelt at Culross in a monastery, where his most famous scholar was +Kentigern, of Glasgow. Palladius died in 432, and Kentigern in 603, so +that the same man in an ordinary life-time could not be _ordained_ by +Palladius and teach Kentigern. To escape this difficulty, the Aberdeen +Breviary makes two S. Serfs. The legend runs--"In a place called Dunnyne +the inhabitants were harassed by a dreadful dragon, which devoured both +men and cattle and kept the district in continual terror. S. Serf, armed +with a breastplate of faith, attacked the monster in his lair, and slew +him by a blow of his pastoral staff." In proof of this legend, and in +memory of this event, the scene to this day is called the Dragon's Den. +The oldest part of the Church of Dunning, which dates between 1200 and +1219, would be the successor of the humbler Celtic building of the +original dedication. If there were two S. Serfs, he of Dunning is the +later, and is the same who is associated with Airthrey, Tillicoultry, +Alva, Culross, and especially Pitmook, or Portmoak, and S. Serf's Isle, +in Loch Leven. Other dedications are Monzievaird, Creich, Dysart, +Redgorton. A S. Serf--probably the earlier, if there were two--was +associated with Orkney. In the west of France, near St. Malo, is a town +of St. Servan. The neatest of all the S. Serf legends, probably invented +to suit some prehistoric soiree at the foot of the Ochils, tells of a +robber who had stolen and eaten a pet lamb of the Saint, and who, having +cleared himself by an oath taken over the Saint's staff, was immediately +contradicted from within by a ba, ba, in response to the Saint's voice +and the false oath. In Glasgow on the Thursday of the Fair week is a +horse market known as Scairs, Skeers, or Sair's Thursday, Sair being one +of the forms of Serf. There is a S. Sares Fair in Aberdeenshire, at +Monkedge or Keith Hall, which has been removed to Culsalmond. + +Although lying beyond our Presbytery limits, allusion may be made to the +very ancient religious house at Abernethy, one mile south of the Earn, +and near its junction with the Tay. The dedication of Abernethy is to S. +Brigid or Bride. About 590, when Abernethy was the seat of the Pictish +rule, Columban monks were planted here under King Lartnaidh. In 717 they +were expelled by Nectan III. for non-conformity to Rome; but in 865 the +old order was re-established by Abbot Kellach, of Iona. This continued +to 908, when the See was transferred to St. Andrews. Culdees appear at +Abernethy in the reign of Edgar (1097-1107), and they still held the old +nunnery associated with S. Brigid in 1189-1198; and in 1272 the Culdees +were changed into a priory of Augustinian monks. The famous Round Tower +is assigned by Dr Petrie to 712-727, under Nectan III.; by Dr Skene to +865, the year of Kellach's visit; Dr Muir makes it later than Brechin, +_i.e._, 950; while Mr Anderson makes it one or two decades later still. +For our purpose here the most important fact relative to Abernethy is the +original dedication to S. Brigid. She was Abbess of Kildare, and died +Feb. 11, 523 (Feb. 1 in Irish Kalendars). She received the veil from S. +Mel, nephew of S. Patrick; wore a leathern belt over a white kirtle, and +had a veil over her shoulders. Her cell was under a large oak, Kildara = +cell of the oak, and she founded communities of women; died at the age of +70. Many miracles are ascribed to her, one of which reveals a very +ancient ecclesiastical usage, parallel to the buns and ale associated +with Scottish communions of three generations ago, as described in "The +Holy Fair." From one barrel, S. Bride supplied beer to eighteen +churches, the beer lasting from noonday, Thursday, in Holy Week, till +after Easter. + +Reviewing these primitive local churches and churchmen, we see that the +general Christianisation of our Strath began about 500 A.D., and has +continued and grown ever since. The three earliest dates above, given +are S. Fillan, +520; S. Kessog, +520; and S. Brigid, +523. The three +latest are S. Cattan, +710; S. Rowan, +737; and S. Bean, +920; all these +being dates of death. This Celtic form of church began earlier in +Scotland, and especially in Ireland, but in this district we see it in +considerable strength from 500 onwards, and we know that it continued in +vigour till about the year 1200, when it was superseded by a better +organised and more developed form of Christianity, with direct +recognition of Rome as the seat of authority. + +The difference between the Roman and the Celtic or Culdee Church +consisted in such matters as these:--The Celtic Church, while +acknowledging many of the saints common to Christendom--especially those +of the East--had in addition a very extensive local calendar, deeply +venerated, which outnumbered the Roman element. It had also +peculiarities in a frontal instead of a coronal tonsure for monks; in a +shorter Lenten fast, which made up the forty days by including Sundays, +and began on Monday instead of Wednesday; in a different time for Easter, +dependent on a more ancient method of reckoning; in the absence of +special or obligatory Easter communion; in the regular celebration of the +Holy Supper with what were by Romanists called "barbarous rites." + +The most marked features of the Celtic Church were its government and +orders, where monasteries took the place of dioceses, where abbots were +above bishops, where bishops were without dioceses, where ordination was +conferred occasionally, if not habitually, by one single bishop instead +of three, where bishops were too numerous to be diocesan, and where +(latterly at least) abbots were frequently married, making church lands +hereditary in their families. + +A further characteristic of the Celtic Church was the rudeness and +smallness of its buildings, which were of three styles--wattle and daub, +timber beams, and unhewn stones. No examples of the two former survive, +but the third and more solid style is still visible in Teampull +Bennachad, in Lewis; Tempull Ronan, in North Rona; and the Beehive Cells, +in Eilan na Naoimh (Nun's Island.) These old Strathearn churches would +seldom be larger than 12 feet wide by 20 long, built of undressed land +stones (like a field dyke), and thatched with heather, bracken, or sedge. +The great storehouse of reliable material with minimum of controversy +relative to the early Christianity of Scotland is Warren's Liturgy and +Ritual of the Celtic Church. (Clarendon Press, 1881.) + +The view given by Mr Hewison in "Bute in the Olden Time" (Vol. I., p. +119) of the doctrine and ritual of the Celtic Church in Ireland in the +days of S. Patrick may safely be accepted as generally applicable to the +Celtic Church in Scotland from 500 to 1000 A.D.:-- + + +"We are dependent upon the 'Tripartite Life of S. Patrick' for definite +information regarding the teaching and modes of worship in the Church in +his day. It is clear the early teachers faithfully maintained the Holy +Scriptures as the rule of faith, and used the version of the Bible +prepared by S. Jerome. There are substantial reasons for believing that +they also possessed a vernacular version, if not of all, of some of the +books of the Bible, the Greek portions of which were studied by the more +famous evangelists, like S. Brendan. A liturgy was also used, and, from +surviving fragments, it appears to have been related to the 'Ephesine,' +rather than to the 'Petrine' family of liturgies--that is to say, it was +different from the Roman, and if not identical with the Gallican liturgy, +was similar to it. Of the co-equality of the Trinity they had no doubt. +In the 'Tripartite Life,' Baptism and Eucharist are mentioned as +sacraments, but penance, marriage, holy orders, and extreme unction are +not referred to as sacraments; while confirmation, if not accepted as of +divine institution, was esteemed to have an imperative importance. There +is only a slight trace of the honours paid to the Virgin Mary in the same +work. According to the editor, 'The Blessed Virgin Mary is never +mentioned either by Patrick, or Secundinus, Muirchu, or Tirechán.' +Communion was partaken of in both kinds, the wine being mixed with water +in the chalice, and sucked through a fistula. Prayers and fasting on +behalf of the dead were indulged in, and much virtue was attached to +severe fastings and ascetic mortifications of body and soul. Every day +was consecrated to unremitting labours in the Gospel. Sunday was, +indeed, a day of worship, divided into eight watches, like the other days +of the week, and was fully observed in the saying of mass, the chanting +of the 150 psalms, and preaching to the people. The clergy--deacons, +presbyters, and bishops--were married. A notable feature of consecration +of bishops was the practice of consecration by a single bishop, sometimes +at a leap, without the candidate having received orders as a deacon or +priest. Priests and virgins had a 'roving commission' to 'sing and say' +over the land. It is interesting to find that the catacombs in Rome have +preserved the monuments of 'virgines peregrinae,' like those of the +Celtic Church. The size, importance, and influence of a complete +ecclesiastical establishment (_muintir_), such as that presided over by +S. Patrick, may be inferred from the functions of the 24 persons who were +in office along with him--viz., bishop, priest, judge, bishop-champion +(polemic), psalmist, chamberlain, bell-ringer, cook, brewer, two waiters, +charioteer, fire-wood man, cow-herd, three smiths, three artizans, and +three embroideresses." + + + +II.--RELATION OF AUCHTERARDER PRESBYTERY + TO THE DIOCESE OF DUNBLANE. + +Of the thirteen dioceses in Scotland, that of Dunblane was the +smallest. In its Parochiale, or list of parishes, were 43 entries; but +3 of these were not parishes at all, but prebends, representing +respectively the Abbots of Cambuskenneth, Arbroath, and Inchaffray. Of +the churches and parishes proper that constituted the diocese, no fewer +than 18 are now included in the Presbytery of Auchterarder; while 12 +constitute the Presbytery of Dunblane, and 6 are in the Presbytery of +Perth. Thus quite one half of the old diocese finds its corporate +representative in Auchterarder, while the other half is subdivided +between Perth and Dunblane. + +Dunblane was formed into a bishopric by David I. out of the old Pictish +Bishopric of Abernethy, which in the division was allotted as a parish +to Dunblane. The date of erection was previous to 1150--some say 1140. +Dunblane was already a Columban, and (notwithstanding Dr. Skene's +argument to the contrary[1]) also a Culdee settlement. The church +dates back to the seventh century, and was an offshoot of the Church of +Kingarth, in Bute, for its founder was St. Blane. He was of the race +of the Irish Picts, and nephew of that Bishop Cathan who founded +Kingarth; he was himself bishop of that church, and his mother was a +daughter of King Aidan of Dalriada. Dunblane and its church were burnt +under Kenneth MacAlpin (844-860) by the Britons of Strathclyde, and in +912 were ravaged by Danish pirates, headed by Rognwald. + +"At Dunblane," says Goodall,[2] "the Culdees continued near a hundred +years longer than at Dunkeld. Cormac Malpol, their prior, with +Michael, parson of Mothil, and Macbeath, his chaplain, are witnesses to +a confirmation by William, bishop of Dunblane (1210 ----), of a gift of +the Church of Kincardine to the monks of Cambuskenneth, to be seen in +their chartulary, fol. 80; and Malpol, the prior, and Michael and +Malcolm, Culdees, are witnesses to a charter by Simon, bishop of +Dunblane (1170 ----), one of William's predecessors.[3] + +"At last, in the year 1240, the election of the bishop of that See was +devolved upon canons-regular, by a mandate of Pope Gregory IX., which +was obtained in this manner: Clement, bishop of Dunblane, went to Rome, +and represented to that Pope, how of old time his bishopric had been +vacant upwards of a hundred years, during which period almost all the +revenues were seized by the seculars; and although in process of time +there had been several bishops instituted, yet, by their simplicity or +negligence, the former dilapidations were not recovered, but, on the +contrary, the remainder was almost quite alienated; so that, for near +ten years, a proper person could not be found to accept of the charge; +that the case having been laid before the Pope, he had committed the +trust of supplying that vacancy to the bishops of St. Andrews, Dunkeld, +and Brechin, who made choice of this Clement; but he found his church +so desolate that he had not where to lay his head in his cathedral: +there was no college there, only a rural chaplain performed divine +service in the church that had its roof uncovered; and the revenues of +the See were so small that they could hardly afford him maintenance for +one half of the year. + +"To remedy these evils, the Pope appointed William and Geoffry, the +bishops of Glasgow and Dunkeld, to visit the Church of Dunblane; and if +they should find these things to be as represented, he authorised them +to cause the fourth part of the tithes of all the parish churches +within that diocy to be assigned to the bishop thereof; who, after +reserving out of these tithes so much as should be proper for his own +sustenance, was, by the advice of these two bishops and other expert +persons, to assign the rest to a dean and canons, whom the Pope +enjoined to be settled there, if these matters could be brought about +without great offence; or, if otherwise, he ordered that the fourth of +the tithes of all such churches of the diocy as were in the hands of +seculars should be assigned to the bishop, and that the bishop's seat +should be translated to St. John's monastery of canons-regular (_i.e._, +Inchaffray) within that diocy, and appointed that these canons should +have the election of the bishop when a vacancy should happen +thereafter." + +As the bishop's seat was not transferred from Dunblane to Inchaffray, +we may infer that the _former_ part of the alternative was carried +out--viz., that dean and canons were found for Dunblane, and the bishop +also provided for out of the fourth of the tithes of all churches in +the diocese. The decay of clerics at Dunblane in Bishop Clement's time +(1233-1258) may as well have applied to _Keledei_ declining there, and +does not imply that they never were there, but existed only at Muthill +(13 miles to the north), and that the Culdees of Muthill, being in the +diocese of Dunblane, were called Culdees of Dunblane. "We find," says +Skene,[4] "the _Keledei_ with their prior at Muthill from 1178 to +1214,[5] when they disappear from the records, and Muthill becomes the +seat of the dean of Dunblane, who had already taken precedence of the +prior of the _Keledei_. It is probable that, under the growing +importance of Dunblane as a cathedral establishment, the possessions of +the _Keledei_ had fallen into secular hands." This would be the more +easy, as the monastery of the Culdees was a distinct institution about +a mile south of the church and village of Muthill. + +The foundation of the present cathedral is attributed to Bishop +Clement, originally a monk, who received the tonsure from St. Dominic +himself. The cathedral which he has left has since his day been +extended both to east and westward; and what he built he joined on to +the more ancient square and perpendicular tower. The cathedral +consists of an aisled, eight-bayed nave (130 by 58 feet, and 50 feet +high), an aisleless choir (80 by 30 feet), with a chapter-house, +sacristy, or lady chapel, to the north. The nave is almost entirely +pure first-pointed. In the clerestory the windows are of two lights, +with a foiled circle set over them, plainly treated outside, but +elaborated by a range of shafted arches running continuously in front +of the windows within, so much apart from them as to leave a narrow +passage round the building in the thickness of the wall. The east +window is a peculiar triplicate, with the centre light much taller and +wider than the others. The west front has over the doorway and its +blind arch on either side three very long and narrow two-light windows +of equal height, with a cinquefoil in the head of the central window +and a quatrefoil in the head of the side windows; whilst above is a +vesica, set within a bevelled fringe of bay-leaves, arranged +zigzag-wise, with their points in contact--the last the subject of a +well-known rhapsody by Ruskin. The root of the cathedral history in +this case lies in the tower. It stands awkwardly a little out of line +in the south aisle of the nave, an evident remnant of an older church, +exactly like the similar tower in Muthill, of the eleventh century, +retained in a church built c. 1430. A tower, almost exactly similar, +but more ornate, probably twenty or thirty years later in date, exists +at Dunning, in the same diocese, and also a Celtic Church settlement +associated with St. Serf. The old Culdee Church of Markinch has a +tower of the same peculiar style, originally with a square, upright, +saddle-backed roof, and crow-stepped gables. Some vestiges remain of +the bishop's palace, overlooking the Allan on the south-west of the +cathedral; and the triangular space in front of the south side of the +cathedral, and forming the end of the High Street, has some old houses +which are believed to have been canons' manses. + +The chapter consisted of--Dean (Muthill), praecentor, chancellor, +treasurer, archdeacon; _Prebendaries_--Abbot of Cambuskenneth in 1298, +Abbot of Arbroath for Abernethy from 1240; Crieff _primo_ (probably +parish of), Crieff _secundo_ (probably St. Thomas at Milnab), Logie, +Fordishall, Kinkell, Kippen, Monzie, Comrie. Eighteen finely carved +oak stalls of the dignitaries and canons belonging to the sixteenth +century still survive. Other carved work was destroyed in 1559 by the +Prior of St. Andrews and the Earl of Argyll. The line of bishops ended +with three of the neighbouring family of Chisholm of Cromlix. Bishop +James Chisholm was eldest son of Edmund Chisholm, and was a good +administrator. Bishop William Chisholm, his half-brother, was an +ecclesiastic of the worst possible type for fornication, church +robbery, and persecution of so-called heretics. Bishop William +Chisholm, nephew of the robber-bishop, became, after the Reformation, a +Carthusian monk at Lyons. He is supposed to have taken with him the +writs of the See, which have been lost. Marshall[6] gives an account +of this branch of Chisholms. The same writer says[7]: "Among the +sepulchral monuments in the cathedral is that of Malise, eighth Earl of +Strathearn, and his countess. It is in the vestry of the choir, and is +a flat block of gritstone, having on it full-sized figures of the Earl +and Countess. When discovered in the choir, the block was above a +coffin of lead with date 1271. In the centre of the choir is the dust +of Lady Margaret Drummond, mistress (but probably privately married) of +James IV., and her sisters the Ladies Euphemia and Sybilla, daughters +of Lord Drummond, who were poisoned (apparently to clear the way for +the King's marriage to the Princess Mary of England in 1503). Their +remains were deposited here by permission of their uncle, Sir William +Drummond, then Dean of Dunblane. Three blue slabs covered and marked +their resting-place. The recumbent figure attired in pontifical +vestments and mitre, and which is in a niche of the wall under a window +of the choir, on the right of the pulpit, is supposed to represent +Bishop Finlay Dermock, and to be his sepulchral monument. The other +recumbent figure under one of the windows of the nave represents Bishop +Michael Ochiltree, who greatly added to the rich adornments of the +cathedral." + + +BISHOPS OF DUNBLANE. + +Laurence, attests a charter of Malcolm IV., 1160. + +Simon, 1170. + +Jonathan, archdeacon, buried at Inchaffray. Great endowment of the See +by Gilbert, earl of Stratherne, c. 1195-1210. + +William de Bosco, chancellor, 1210. + +Abraham, 1220 to c. 1223. + +Osbert, abbot of Cambuskenneth, +1231. + +Clement, a Dominican friar, consecrated by Bishop William of St. +Andrews at the Stow Church of Wedale; founded cathedral; made +exaggerated wail of poverty to the Pope, who in 1238 appointed a +commission of inquiry, 1233-1258. + +Robert de Prebenda, dean, ambassador in 1277 to Edward I.: in 1265 was +Conservator of Council at Perth, 1258-1283. + +William, one of the arbiters between John Baliol and Bruce, 1290 to c. +1292. + +Nicholas de Balmyle, monk of Arbroath, parson of Calder, lord +chancellor, 1307-1320. + +Maurice, abbot of Inchaffray, Bruce's chaplain at Bannockburn with +crosier of St. Fillan; a brave patriot priest, with the old piety that +reverenced relics, yet was true and fervent, 1320-1347. + +William, 1347-1361. + +Walter de Cambuslang or Conentre, 1362-1370. + +Andrew, seals Act for succession of crown at Scone, 1st April, 1373. + +Dougal, c. 1380-1399. + +Finlay Dermoch, built bridge over Allan Water, tomb in cathedral on +north side of nave, 1400-1419. + +William Stephen, divinity-reader in 1411 at St. Andrews, Conservator of +Council at Perth, 1420, 1420-1429. + +Michael Ochiltree, dean in 1425, built Knaik Bridge at Ardoch, Bishop's +Bridge at Culdees, rebuilt Culdee Church at Muthill; crowned James II. +in 1437 at Holyrood, 1429-1447. + +Robert Lauder, sent on several embassies, founder of several prebends, +1448-1458. + +Thomas, 1459. + +John Hepburn, a lord of session, 1467 to c. 1479. + +James Chisholm, son of Edward Chisholm of Cromlix, chaplain to James +III., 1534; a careful administrator and good bishop, 1489-1527. + +William Chisholm, half-brother of the preceding, who resigned in his +favour; a shameless wretch, who wasted the See by fraudulent tacks to +his three bastards and his nephew, and who burned men for heresy, +1527-1564. + +William Chisholm, nephew of the robber bishop, appointed by Papal brief +of 2nd June, 1561, and nominated by Queen Mary in 1564; was in exile +Bishop of Vaison in France, became a Carthusian of Grenoble, and died +at Rome, 1564-1593. + + +PAROCHIALE DUNBLANENSE + +Dunblane, St. Blain. Chapelry of Kilbride at Kilbride Castle. + +Aberfoyle in Menteith. Dependent on _Inchmahome_. Has five lakes. + +Abernethy, St. Brigid. _Arbroath_. Prebend, 1240. In See of Dunkeld +in 1446. For four vicars. Probable date of round tower, 854. At +first had Dron, Dunbulg, and Erole as chapels. + +Auchterarder, St. Mungo. _Inchaffray_. Old church in a valley, one +mile westward. Mackessock in charter of Innerpeffray. + +Aberuthven, St. Cathan. _Inchaffray_, 1200. Later to Arbroath. Now +joined to Auchterarder. Very ancient church survives. + +Tullibardine. A collegiate church. Now in parish of Blackford. + +Bondington or Boddington. _Arbroath_. In 1369 the lands of Boddington +belonged to Peter de Innerpeffry. Bonnyton, near Montrose. (Jervise, +93.) + +Blackford, St. Patrick. Original church was Strogeith, now in Muthill. + +Dundurn, or St. Fillans. St. Fillan the Leper. Church here since c. +550. Associated with a fortress on Dunfillan. Now in Comrie. + +Comrie, St. Kessog, R.[8] _Paisley Abbey_. Prebend. Chapel at +Tullikettle. Had St. Kessog's Fair, third Wednesday of March. + +Dron. Once chapel under Abernethy. Now includes Pottie, at the mouth +of Glenfarg (see deanery of Gowrie, St Andrews), and Ecclesia Macgirdle +("Exmagirdle") at Glenearn. + +Dunning, St. Serf, c. 1200. + +Dupplin. Family chapel of castle. In 1618 joined to Aberdalgie. + +Foulis, St. Methven and St. Bean (Foulis-Wester.) _Inchaffray_. Chapel +of St. Methven at Buchanty Bridge. Also chapel at Gorthy, 1266. +Renewed in 1454 by agreement between Abbot of Inchaffray and Tristam of +Gorthy. + +Fordishall or Ferdshaw. Prebend. Again under Dunkeld. + +Gask, Holy Trinity (Trinity-Gask). _Inchaffray_. + +Innerpeffray, St Mary. Mentioned 1342. Collegiate, 1508, by first +Lord Drummond. In Monzie, _quoad sacra_ to Muthill. Had Lady Fair on +25th March. + +Kilmadoc, St. Madocus or Aidus (Doune.) _Inchmahome_ Priory. + +Kincardine, St. Latan or Lolan. Mentioned c. 1190 (Kincardine in +Menteith). _Cambuskenneth_. Old parish of Lany in Kincardine, and +chapelry of Balquhapple. + +Kinkell, St. Bean. Prebend. _Inchaffray_. Now in Trinity-Gask. +Minister of Kinkell hanged at Crieff, 1682. + +Logie, St. Woloc (Logie, Stirling). Prebend. + +Kippen, St. Davius or Movean. In Menteith. Prebend. + +Lecroft or Leckraw, St Moroc or Maworrock (Lecropt, Bridge of Allan). +_Cambuskenneth_. + +Monzie in Stratherne. Prebend. St. Laurence Fair, 22d August. +Included Logiealmond. Chapel at Tomenbowie, and Stuck Chapel with +burial-grounds. + +Monedie. Included Logiealmond, detached from Monzie. + +Monyvaird, St. Serf, with Strowan (St. Rowan or Ronan). United before +1662. + +Madertie, St. Ethernan (Maderty). An old abthane. Has Abbey of +_Inchaffray_. + +Capeth Moothill (Muthill). The Dean. Chapels and wells of St Patrick +at Struthill and at Blairinroar; also, Dalpatrick across the Earn, from +St. Patrick's of Strageath; Easter and Wester Feddal and Bennie (now in +Ardoch), belonged to _Lindores Abbey_ from 1198. + +Port [of Monteith]. Included old parish of Lany or Leny. + +St. Madocus or Aidus (St. Madoes, Perth), R. Also Samadoss. + +Tullicultrie, St. Serf. _Cambuskenneth_. Colvilles of Tillicoultry, +1483-1634. + +Crieff, St. Michael, R. Prebend. Religious house--St. Thomas at +Milnab (= Abbot's Mill), belonging to Inchaffray. Besides Crieff +_primo_ and Crieff _secundo_ in Strathearn, there was also a Crieff +_tertio_ in Perthshire, probably the outlying portion of the parish in +Glenalmond round Corrymuckloch. + +Logie-Airthray, St. Serf (Airthrey, Bridge of Allan). _Nuns of North +Berwick_. + +Strogeyt or Strageith, St Patrick. Once church of Blackford, now in +parish of Muthill. _Inchaffray_. Planted by St. Fergus c. 700. + +Callender, St. Kessaig. Chapel of Kilmahog or St. Chug. + +Fyndogask, St. Findoca (Gask). _Inchaffray_. + +Tuelliallan (Tulliallan), R. Seat of the Blackaders, who gave an +archbishop to Glasgow. + +Glendovan (Glendevon), R. Old church in Gleneagles (= Glen Eglise). +_Cambuskenneth_. + +Fossowy (Fossoway). _Cupar Angus_, c. 1310. Included Tullibole, +_Culross Abbey_. United in 1614. + +Buffuder, St. Angus (Balquhidder). Has Strathyre and Glenogle. + +Prebendary, 1298, Abbot of Cambuskenneth _ex officio_. + +Prebendary, 1240, for parish of Abernethy, Abbot of Arbroath _ex +officio_. + +Preceptor or Provost of Dunblane, Abbot of Inchaffray _ex officio_. + + + +[1] II. 403. + +[2] Preliminary Dissertation in Keith's "Bishops," iv. + +[3] See Crawford's "Officers of State," vi. + +[4] II. 404. + +[5] Reeves' "British Culdees," Evidences, S., 141. + +[6] "Hist. Scenes in Perthshire," 346. + +[7] Ibid., 343. + +[8] R=Rectory. + + + + +NEAR THE PICTISH CAPITAL + +By Rev. P. THOMSON, B.D., Dunning + +The title is retained as it was given. But it would be more correct to +say, "Near a Pictish Capital," for, as is well known, of such capitals +there were more than one. Nobody, however, who keeps in mind the origin +and range of the present volume will need to be told that "The Pictish +Capital" here meant is Forteviot--or, as it is often otherwise spelt in +legends, and chronicles, and charters--_Fertebeith, Ferteuioth, +Fertenyoth, Ferthevioth, Fetherthauethn, Fethirthant, Fothuirtabaicht, +Fortewyot, Fetherteviot_. + +When Forteviot attained the dignity of being a royal abode cannot be +definitely ascertained. Dr Stuart gives it as his opinion that the royal +residence is to be identified with the "Dun Fothir" mentioned in the +Irish annals, which is recorded to have been twice besieged--in 681 and +694 A.D.; and it has been suggested by the same authority that probably +the name means "the dun of the district, or of the men, or of the King of +Fortren," which term latterly meant the kingdom of the Southern Picts. + +Whatever probability there may be in the above suggestion, when we refer +to the Legend of S. Andrew, we find what appears to be corroborative +evidence that Forteviot was the residence of Pictish kings from a very +early period. According to this legend, it was to Forteviot, in the hope +of seeing the King there, that S. Regulus and certain of his followers +made their way with the relics of the most holy Apostle Andrew, after +their landing at Muckros or Kylrimont (now Saint Andrews). It so +happened that the King (Hungus, or Ungus, or Angus, who died A.D. 761) +was not at home, having gone on an expedition into Argyle (Argathelia). +But they found his three sons[1] residing at Forteviot, and these princes +gave the tenth part of the town[2] to God and S. Andrew, the holy men +blessing the place and the royal family who abode there. They then went +in further search of the King himself, and having met him at Kindrochet, +in Braemar, and subsequently at Monichi (Monikie), they returned in +company with him to Forteviot, where he built a church ("basilica"[3]) to +God and S. Andrew. + +But these are not the only references that we have. According to one of +the Pictish chronicles, it was at Fothuir-tabaicht that Drust (Filius +Ferat), the last King of the Picts, was killed.[4] It was here--"in +palacio suo de Fothuir-tabaicht"--where Kenneth MacAlpin, the first of +the Scotic dynasty (formed by the union of the lines of the Picts and the +Dalriadic Scots), died in 860. It was here, in Fothuir-tabaicht, where +Donald I., Kenneth's brother and successor, established with his council +the mode of succession to the throne, confirming "the rights and laws of +the kingdom of Aodh, son of Eocha." + +According to Skene, Forteviot continued to be a royal residence until the +reign of Donald II., the son of Constantine, when the capital was +transferred to Scone. But it would appear that the ancient "palace" at +Forteviot was subsequently restored by Malcolm Canmore, and that his +successors at least occasionally came to live in it. Malcolm the Maiden +(1153-1165) is found to have granted at Fetherteviot a charter conveying +certain lands--the names of Ada, the King's mother, and of William, his +brother, appearing as witnesses. And even so late as 1306, during the +English invasion, there is mention of a letter, dated from Forteviot by +Edward, Prince of Wales. + +The traditional site of the "palace," which would, no doubt, correspond +also with the site of the early church dedicated to S. Andrew, as before +mentioned, is still pointed out a little to the west of the village, and +is known as the Halyhill or Holyhill. Whether this first church was +built of stone is not known. But that there was a stone church at +Forteviot at an early date is made comparatively certain by the +discovery, in 1830 or thereby, of a large semi-circular and arched stone +lying in the bed of the River May, and directly under the Halyhill. How +long this most interesting arch had been hid away no one can tell; but it +was a fortunate "spate" that washed it bare and exposed it to the light +of day. It is now in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh, where the +writer recently made an inspection of it. An excellent engraving of it +is contained in J. Romilly Allen's _Christian Symbolism in Great Britain +and Ireland_, and with the kind permission of that gentleman it is here +reproduced.[5] + +The arch is 4 feet in span and 21 inches high. Carved in relief in the +centre of the stone is a cross, on one side of which is an animal--very +probably intended for the Agnus Dei; while, on the same side, a little +below the Agnus Dei, there are three figures with helmets on their heads +and swords in their right hands. On the other side of the cross there is +a robed figure in a sitting posture, with a sword across his knees, and +with one foot resting on the back of a horned animal. + +It has been erroneously supposed by some that this arch must have formed +part of the principal doorway of the "palace," but from the fact of its +bearing such symbols as the Cross and the Agnus Dei, there is no doubt +that it belonged to an early church.[6] Bearing in mind the legend of +the founding of a church to S. Andrew in the time of Hungus, perhaps the +suggestion of Dr Joseph Anderson has great probability--viz., that the +four figures are "not contemporary, but early representations of King +Hungus and his three sons."[7] + +All lovers of antiquarian lore will be interested in knowing that, a few +years ago, there was brought to light at Forteviot, and through the +kindness of the parish minister, Dr Anderson, exhibited to the Society of +Antiquaries a fine specimen of a bronze bell of Celtic type (the fifth of +the kind known in Scotland), whose date is believed to belong to about +the middle of the 10th century. + +NEAR THE PICTISH CAPITAL would be found, as a matter of course, the royal +hunting-grounds. Very probably these were on both sides of the +Earn--stretching westward into the neighbouring parish of Dunning, the +northmost part of which is still called Dalreoch or Dailrigh, a word +which, in Gaelic, means the King's haugh or field. + +To DUNNING, or rather to some of the objects in it, that are of the +greatest archaeological or antiquarian interest, the remainder of this +chapter will be devoted. + +In many ways that we can readily conceive, traces of the proximity of +Dunning to a royal residence must have existed from an early period. The +existence of hill forts, as at Rossie-Law, and the discovery, from time +to time, of arms and stone coffins, indicate that the parish must have +been often the theatre of strife and bloodshed. Duncrub,[8] or, as it is +called in a Pictish chronicle, "Dorsum Crup," is said to have been the +scene of a battle, which is thus referred to by Robertson in his _Early +Kings_--"The reign of Duff, the eldest son of Malcolm the First, and +representative of the senior branch of the Royal family, appears to have +been passed in a continued struggle against the pretensions raised by the +now rival line of Aodh in the person of Indulf's son Colin, and, though +at first successful, defeating Colin at the Battle of Duncrub (A.D. 965), +in which the Mormaor[9] of Atholl and the Abbot of Dunkeld, partizans +apparently of the defeated prince, were numbered amongst the slain, he +was subsequently less fortunate, and was driven by his rival from the +throne, losing his life on a later occasion at Forres ... where his body +is said to have been hidden under the bridge of Kinloss, tradition adding +that the sun refused to shine until the dishonoured remains of the +murdered monarch received the burial of a king."[10] Part of the ground +which is believed to have been the site of the Battle of Duncrub now +forms the village tennis-ground and the village bowling-green, and yearly +are witnessed on it fightings still--though of a very different kind. +The traditional spot where the Abbot (by name Doncha) was slain is marked +by the "Standing-Stone," on "the acres," a little to the east of the +tennis-ground, while a similar "standing-stone," on the farm of "The +Knowes," is said to mark the place where the Mormaor met his doom. + +The spelling of the name Dunning, at various times, and in various +records and charters, is rather interesting--_Donyng, Dunnyne, Dunyne, +Dinnin, Dunin_, or (as _e.g._, in the inscription on the Communion cups +presently in use, of date 1702) _Duning_. The word is generally thought +to be derived from the Gaelic term dún (already referred to), which means +a hill, or a hill with a fort.[11] + +On first appearing on the page of tolerably trustworthy history, Dunning +formed part of the Stewartry or Earldom of Strathearn, which dates back +to a remote period. Among the ancient Earls of Strathearn there were +some very notable figures. Particularly so was Malise, the Earl of +Strathearn, who figured prominently in the Battle of the Standard. But, +more particularly notable still, was his grandson, Gilbert, who held the +Earldom in the reign of David I. Like his King--proverbially known as +the "sair sanct for the crown"--Gilbert was most lordly in gifts to the +Church, which was then fast rising into power. Dr Wilson[12] quotes an +old writer to the effect that, at this time, the Earldom of Strathearn +included "the haill lands lying betwixt the Cross of MacDuff, at +Newburgh, and the west end of Balquhidder, in length, and the Ochil Hills +and the hills called Montes Grampii, or the Grampians, in breadth." Even +though we make some reduction as to all this, and regard as somewhat +legendary what Fordun tells us--viz., that Gilbert divided all his huge +territory into three equal parts, giving two to the Church, and keeping +only one to himself, still there cannot be a doubt but that he was one of +the most liberal and extensive church-endowers on record. It was by him +that the Bishopric of Dunblane was founded; it was by him that the Abbey +of Canons-regular, at Inchaffray, was richly endowed through his +attaching to it the tithes of many of the neighbouring parishes. The +foundation charter of the Abbey, dated 1200 A.D., in the thirty-fifth +year of the reign of William, records the giving and making over to the +Abbey of the Church of S. Kattan, at Aberuthven; the Church of S. +Ethirnin, at Madderty; the Church of S. Patrick, at Strageath; the Church +of S. Mockhessoc, at Auchterarder; and the Church of S. Bean, at Kynkell. +It will be seen that Dunning is not in this list. But it appears along +with some other parishes in a second charter granted by the same Gilbert +in 1217, which charter confirmed the grant of previously gifted parishes, +and adds "the Church of S. Serf at Monzievaird, S. Bean at Foulis, S. +Bridget at Kilbryde, the Holy Trinity at Gask, Tullichettel at Comrie, +and S. Serf at Dunnyne." + +It is highly probable that between 1200 and 1219--say, about 1210--the +Church of S. Serf at Dunning was built. And that we have a considerable +portion of the original building still remaining is rendered almost +certain from what is known of the style of architecture of the period +referred to--viz., the Norman in transition--the Norman entering on a +First Pointed. The grey Tower, with its quaintly-mullioned windows and +saddle-back roof; the wall adjoining the Tower on the north, and +containing a fine Norman doorway and an interesting line of corbels; the +handsome arch rising from massive pillars, and showing beautifully +scolloped mouldings, all afford corroborative proof of the date above +assigned.[13] + +If Dunning Church was built about the time we have mentioned, it would, +no doubt, be about the same time when the lands around it were erected +into a parish. We have one or two very early references. In a charter +of date 1247, Malise, Earl of Strathearn, granted 20 merks annually "de +Thanagio de Dunnyne et Pitcairn." In 1283 we find that there was made to +the Church of S. Serf a grant of "20 merks from our fermé[14] at Dunin, +to be paid half-yeirlie, at the Feast of Pentecost and the Feast of S. +Martin; and 10 merks of silver from our holding of Pitcairn, to be paid +in the same manner." And in 1358 there is ratified a grant, previously +made, of "42 merks yearly from the Thanage of Dunnyne"; also "the tithe +of all the rents, cane, corn, cheese, flesh, fish, fowl, and game, and of +all the food used in the Earl's Court, and 20 merks from our fermé at +Dunnyne." + +It may interest lovers of archaeological studies to know that when the +Church of S. Serf at Dunning--originated and endowed as above +described--was being re-floored some thirty-five years ago, there was dug +up, from among earth and bones in the nave, a good specimen of a Celtic +cross, which is now erected in a fitting place underneath the Tower. Mr +A. Hutchison, F.S.A., Scot., Dundee (a reliable authority), has examined +it, and has pronounced it "of the true Celtic type." He adds the opinion +that "the fact that no mention is made in contemporary documents of an +earlier church (_i.e._, earlier than 1210) does not prove that such a +church did not exist.... It is a fair inference from the existence of +this early cross that an earlier ecclesiastical settlement existed at +Dunning, and that the present church superseded a pre-Norman, or Celtic +Church, in all probability on the same site." + +At the risk of its being regarded as an unpardonably wide digression, +reference may here be made, not to another cross, but to a monumental +stone of another kind and of a much later date (although no date is +inscribed upon it.) It is what is known as the "Ebenezer" stone of the +parish. Though at one time lying flat and covered with crop-bearing +soil, it now stands erect, and on what is believed to have been its first +site. It is placed on a field on the farm of Easter Gatherleys, and +about three-quarters of a mile west of the farm-house. Its origin is +said to have been this:--The farmer of Gatherleys of the time--who was +also "laird" of the place--had for long been in doubt and spiritual +darkness--to all appearance hopelessly perplexed. Sitting down, here, +one day, he found comfort, peace, and light. Showing a most laudable +example, he not selfishly received the blessing, but most gratefully +acknowledged it, raising on the spot his "Ebenezer" of indebtedness to +Him from whom our blessings flow. On the surface of the stone facing the +east are inscribed in English the words of Is. l., 10; while on that +facing the west we have the following:-- + + EBENEZER + ======== + Hic + EX TENEBRIS + LUX LUXIT + ERGO + PATER, FILIUS, ET + SPIRITUS SANCTUS + MEUS DEUS, + ET NOMEN + HUJUS LOCI + LUX[15] + +Both as to size and shape the stone is similar to the quaint early 17th +century "head-stones" in the older portion of the graveyard around +Dunning Church. + +Something must be written of the bells which have been connected, at one +time or another, with the Church of Dunning. One bell, no longer in the +Tower, came to sudden grief when discharging its duty on a certain happy +occasion. The Master of Rollo of the time, who was living at +Masterfield, having been blessed with four daughters, but no son and +heir, was met one evening by a messenger bringing the welcome news that a +son had just been born to him. "Go," he said, "and make the bell ring +till it crack." The order was literally obeyed--a broken bell being the +result. Its fragments having been taken to Duncrub, were, many years +after, re-cast into a bell, now used in connection with the private +chapel there. The inscription on the cracked bell, for a copy of which +the writer is indebted to the present Lord Rollo, was of a very +interesting and suggestive nature. Round the top were the words--"Soli +Deo Gloria. Joannes Oaderogge me fecit. Roterodami, 1681"; and on the +body of the bell, the following words placed thus:-- + + "HAEC AD EVANGELIUM + HOC AD CHRISTUM + HIC AD CAELUM + VOCAT PBCCATORES."[16] + + +His Lordship adds--"The bell, I believe, was in a vessel that was +captured in the American War, and it was brought here by my predecessor, +Andrew, fifth Lord Rollo.... It was broken in April, 1773, and I had it +re-cast by Mears in 1860, with the original inscription replaced." + +Of much interest, also, are the two bells still in the Tower of Dunning +Church. The older and smaller bears the Dutch inscription:--"IC BEN +GHEGOTEN INE IAER ONS HEEREN MCCCCCXXVI."[17] But in addition to this, +the bell shows a two-fold representation that seems to give it a value +quite unique. What we have is--(1) a scallop-shell,[18] on which are +three figures--a central-seated figure, and two smaller figures kneeling +alongside. The central figure seems to hold something, which may be a +book, in the left hand close to the breast. The right hand is extended, +and seems to hold a staff and a garland. The figure has a _nimbus_, and +a curious triangular head-dress. (2) On the side opposite the shell and +figures is what appears to be a representation of the Virgin and Child, +alongside of which is a figure of the Crucifixion.[19] This old bell is +used to announce the half-hour as measured on the Steeple Clock,[20] as +also to tell the living that the mortal remains of some brother or sister +are about to be laid beneath the turf. + +The large bell--used to announce the services of the church, and, through +the kindness of Lady Rollo, to ring at "matins" and at "even-song"--is of +very full tone. It was a gift to the church by a highly-respected +heritor of the parish, and bears this inscription:-- + +"T. Mears of London fecit. + +"This Bell was presented to the Parish Church of Dunning by Mark Howard +Drummond, Esq. of Kelty, Major of the 72nd Regiment of Albany +Highlanders, in token of his attachment to his native parish, and of his +zeal to promote religious, industrious, and early habits among the +parishioners.--August 3d, 1825." + + +Mention has already been made of the fact that the patron Saint of +Dunning was S. SERF. The same Saint had churches dedicated to him at +Monivaird (Monzievaird), at Creich, and at Dysart. But, inasmuch as he +seems to have lived for some considerable time at Dunning, and also to +have died there, perhaps this is the most fitting place for a page or two +as to his history. + +That he was a real historic personage does not admit of doubt; but the +exact time at which he acted his part on the world's stage is involved in +great obscurity. The legends of him are very conflicting, so much so, +that it has been supposed by some that there were two S. Serfs. It is +the legends, however, that are two-fold, and not the Saint. According to +the Aberdeen Breviary, and writers who follow its guidance, S. Servanus, +or S. Serf, or S. Serb, or (in Aberdeenshire) S. Sair, belonged to the +5th century, and was the disciple of S. Palladius; others putting him a +little further on, and making him out to have been the instructor of S. +Kentigern at Culross. But most people who carefully read the pages of +Skene[21] will be satisfied that S. Servanus belongs to a later period +still. It so happens that there is preserved in the Marsh M.S., Dublin, +and printed in Skene's _Chronicles of the Picts and Scots_ (p. 412, ff.), +a Life of the Saint, which, notwithstanding some excessively wild and +incredible-looking stories mixed up with it, is the only life of his that +is consistent with itself and with otherwise-ascertained contemporary +facts. This life makes the Saint contemporary with Adamnan, Abbot of +Iona, who belonged to the 7th century, and with Brude, son of Dargart, +King of the Picts. According to Skene,[22] this Brude, son of Dargart, +may be identified with Brude, son of Derile, who reigned from 697 to 706, +and preceded that Nectan, son of Derile, who expelled the Columban monks +from his kingdom. And confirmatory proof of this identification being +correct is furnished by Gray's _Scalacronica_, which has under this Brude +that we have been referring to--"En quel temps veint Servanus en +Fine."[23] Moreover, in the Chartulary of S. Andrews there is reference +to an early charter of the Celtic period, by which "Brude, son of +Dergard, gives the Isle of Lochlevine to the Omnipotent God, and to Saint +Servanus, and to the Keledei hermits dwelling there, who are serving, and +shall serve God in that island." + +According, then, to the life in the Marsh Library M.S.--the life which, +its many wild accounts notwithstanding, seems most free from +anachronisms--the Saint is the son of Obeth, King of Canaan, and Alpia, +daughter of the King of Arabia. His father dying, he gives up his right +to the throne in favour of his twin brother Generatius, takes orders, and +is appointed Bishop of the Cananeans. After twenty years as Bishop in +that region, admonished by an angel, he comes to Jerusalem, where he is +Patriarch for seven years. He then goes to Constantinople, and thence to +Rome, where, for seven years, he reigns as Pope. Quitting Rome, and +accompanied by a band of pilgrims, he makes his way into regions remote +and crosses the Mare Icteum (Straits of Dover) dryshod, and, after +travelling from place to place, arrives at the Forth. Adamnan, who, at +the time, was an abbot in Scotland, receives him with great honours on +the island of Inchkeith, and afterwards gave him, as his field of labour, +Fife, and from the Mons Britannicus to the Mons Okhel (from the mount of +the Britons to the Ochils.) He is next found at Kinel, then at Culenros, +where he met King Brude and founded a church; then at an island, in Loch +Leven, where he meets Adamnan and has the island presented to him. After +constructing churches throughout the whole region of Fife, and labouring +for years in the province assigned to him, and at many other places, he +died at Dunning, and was buried at Culross. The deeds ascribed to S. +Serf are certainly astounding, and the stories associated with him +extraordinarily "wild"; still, as the scenes of not a few of them are +laid at places in the Ochils district, and, accordingly, "Near the +Pictish Capital," it may not be inappropriate if a few of them are +rehearsed here.[24] + +At Tuligbotuan (Tullybody) the Devil, having entered into a poor man, +filled him with an insatiable appetite. He ate and ate, and still the +wolf within craved for more. Though he consumed a cow and a calf, a +sheep and a lamb, all was of no avail. At length, when the family were +eaten "out of house and hall," his relatives take him to S. Serf, who +clapped his thumb[25] into the man's mouth, which immediately satisfied +him--the Devil flying out of him with a howl. + +At Alveth (Alvah) Servanus and his company lodged, on one occasion, at +the house of a very poor man, who had nothing to put before them but his +one pig. It was forthwith cut up and eaten, the bones, however, being +carefully preserved from being broken. Next morning, to the great +delight and surprise of the poor man, the pig came grunting to the door, +restored to flesh, and life by the Saint. + +At Atheren (Airthrey) a robber, one night, broke into S. Serf's cell, +and, finding a sheep roasted in his larder, comfortably sat down and +entirely consumed it. Next day Servanus met the fellow and charged him +with the robbery. The man swore innocence, but it was of no use; he was +instantly convicted, for the wether bleated in his bowels. + +At Dunning, S. Serf is said to have healed three blind, three lame, and +three deaf men. But his great feat here was killing the dragon. (Had no +princes or knights come to Forteviot as yet, that such work was left to +the priest?) The story, as given in the Marsh M.S., is as follows:--"At +that time the Saint was in his cell at Dunning (_in cella Dunenensi_), +and news was brought to him that a dragon, great and terrible, and very +loathsome (_deterrimus_), was coming into his township (_civitatem +suam_), whose aspect no mortal could suffer. Saint Servanus, however, +coming out to meet it, and taking his staff in his right hand, fought +with the dragon in a certain valley, and killed it. From that day, +moreover, that valley was called the Valley of the Dragon."[26] + +The circumstances connected with the Saint's death and burial are +touchingly described. The holy man, after many miracles, after divers +works, after founding many churches in Christ, when his peace had been +given to his brethren in his cell at Dunning, gave up and commended his +spirit to the most High Creator on the first day of the Kalends of July. +After his death his disciples and the people of nearly the whole province +carried his body to Culenross (Culross), and there, with psalms and hymns +(ymnis) and chantings (canticis), honourably buried him, where flourish +his merits, and the virtues of his merits unto this day--to the glory and +honour of the Omnipotent God, who in the Perfect Trinity liveth and +reigneth through endless ages of ages. + +Only the limits of space forbid allusion to additional features of +considerable importance near the Pictish Capital, and connected with the +parish of Dunning. Room, however, must be found for stating that, as is +to be expected, Dunning, like other places in Strathearn, is not without +interesting traces of the "Rising" of 1715. In the Session records, +under date 18th September, 1715, there is the following entry:--"There +was no sermon this day, and for several Sabbaths following, on account of +the commotions that were in the county by reason of Mar's unnatural +rebellion." When Mar quitted the field of Sheriffmuir, he, on the 12th +November, 1715, withdrew his army into Angus, and in order to hinder the +progress of the Royalist forces, he burned down all the villages on the +line of march as far as Perth. The villagers of Dunning, actuated by the +same feelings as led the citizens of London to erect the "Monument" after +the great fire of 1666, planted a thorn tree to commemorate the +destruction of their village. This ancient tree, standing in the square +opposite the east approach to the manse, is well protected, and is likely +to be spared to tell its memorable story to generations to come. + + + +[1] _Hwonam et Nechtan et Phinguineghert_.--(See Skene's _Chronicles of +the Picts and Scots_, p. 185). + +[2] _Decimam partem de urbe Fortevieth_.--(See Skene's _Chronicles of the +Picts and Scots_, p. 185). + +[3] This word, originally, was the name applied by the Romans to their +public halls, either of justice or of exchange. Inasmuch as the early +Christian Churches generally followed the ground plan of these buildings, +such churches long retained the same appellation. + +[4] Other chronicles give the place as Scone.--(See Skene's _Chronicles +of the Picts and Scots_, p. 174). + +[5] Both palace and church would be within the King's Rath or circular +fortification. + +[6] "The custom of placing a cross over the doorway of a Christian +building may be traced back to the sixth century in Palestine, where the +Chi-Rho monogram occurs on the lintels of the doorways of the houses. +The meaning of the symbolism is explained by the blood of the lamb, which +was struck upon the lintels of the doors of the houses of the Israelites +in Egypt at the Passover (Gen. xii., 21-23), and our Lord's words--'I am +the door, by me if any man enter in, he shall be saved,' (John x., +9)."--(J. Romilly Allen's _Christian Symbolism_, p. 238). + +A good example of such a cross is on the lintel of the doorway of a 7th +century church at Fore, Co. West Meath; and another, equally good, is on +the doorway of one of the oldest churches in Ireland, on High Island, off +the coast of Connemara. In connection with the Round Towers at Antrim +and at Brechin there are similar crosses. + +[7] See _Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland_ (Vol. +xxvi., p. 438.) Dr Wilson, in his _Dunning: its Parochial History_, +states that the large figure with the sword "is said to be a +representation of Alexander the First, who died in the year 1124" (p. 3.) + +[8] Sir Herbert Maxwell, in his _Scottish Land-Names: their Origin and +Meaning_, gives as the derivation of Duncrub, the old Gaelic dún +craeb=hill of the trees. + +[9] Otherwise spelt _Mormaer_. Except that the constituent elements are +inverted, it is the same word as _Maormor_ (Gael. _maer, maor_, a +steward, and _mor_, great), and was the ancient name for a royal steward +of high dignity, placed by a Scottish king over a province, and acting as +a royal deputy. + +[10] Robertson's _Early Kings_ (Vol. I., p. 77). + +[11] Sir Herbert Maxwell states that dún in its original and restricted +sense means "Enclosure or fortress, being closely related to A.S. tûn, +Eng. town.... The diminutive, or noun plural, yields innumerable names, +like _Dinnans_ and _Dinnance_, in Ayrshire and Galloway; _Duning_ and +_Dinnings_ in Dumfriesshire; and _Downan_, near Ballantrae." Ought not +Sir Herbert to have added _Dunnin_ or _Dunning_, in Perthshire? + +[12] See _Dunning: its Parochial History_, p. 4. + +[13] The marks of a gable of a former nave with a very highly-pitched +roof are still distinctly seen on the Tower. + +[14] The word here used, occasionally spelt _ferm_, sometimes means not +so much a piece of land turned to agricultural use and cultivated by +owner or tenant, as _an account, a reckoning_: It is akin to _farm_ from +the A.S. fearm or feorm=food, a meal. A trustworthy authority says that +the meaning of farm "arose from the original practice of letting lands, +on condition that the tenant should supply his lord's household with so +many nights' entertainment." Hence "Reddet firmam trium noctium." (He +will supply three nights' entertainment).--_Doomsday Book_. + +[15] Here, out of darkness Light shone. Therefore the Father, Son, and +Holy Ghost [shall be] my God, and the name of this place Light. + +[16] This [bell] calls sinners to the Gospel, it to Christ, He to Heaven. + +[17] I was born in the year of our Lord, 1526. + +[18] In heraldry a scallop-shell is the badge of a pilgrim. It is the +symbol of S. James the Greater, who is generally represented in pilgrim's +garb. In this sense it is sometimes written _Escallop_. + +[19] The writer is indebted to Dr Joseph Anderson for kindly examining +two casts of these figures, carefully prepared by Mr James Henderson, +F.S.A., Scot., Dunning. + +[20] Erected by public subscription, and inaugurated 3rd November, 1890. +(For architectural correctness, its four dials are omitted in Mr Ross's +drawing of the Tower). + +[21] See his _Celtic Scotland_, p. 31, ff. + +[22] See _Celtic Scotland_, p. 259. + +[23] See _Chronicles of the Picts and Scots_, p. 201. + +[24]In telling one or two of these stories, we have tried to combine with +the Marsh M.S. version the somewhat fuller details of the Aberdeen +Breviary. + +[25] Baring Gould (_Lives of the Saints_. London, 1874), using probably +a version of the legend reading _pulicem_, instead of _pollicem suum_, +has _clapped a flea into the man's mouth_. + +[26] The Dragon is the name still given to that part of the parish in +which is situated the Village of Newtown of Pitcairns. + + + + +THE HISTORIC PRESBYTERY OF AUCHTERARDER + +By Rev. G. D. MACNAUGHTAN, B.D., Ardoch, + _Clerk of Presbytery_ + +The district embraced within the bounds of the Presbytery of +Auchterarder belonged for the most part to the ancient Diocese of +Dunblane. Within it lay the famous Abbey of Inchaffray, and the +minister of Muthill was usually Dean of Dunblane. As originally +erected, the Presbytery was, indeed, the Presbytery of Dunblane, but in +1593 the General Assembly ordained the Presbytery of Dunblane "to be +transportit to Auchterardour, with liberty to the brethren of Dunblane +appealing to resort either to Auchterardour or Striviling as they +please." When at last it got into shape it consisted of the following +fifteen parishes, viz.:--Auchterarder, Blackford, Comrie, Crieff, +Dunning, Fossoway, Foulis-Wester, Gask, Glendevon, Madderty, Monzie, +Monzievaird, Muckhart, Muthill, and Trinity-Gask. Beginning on the +shores of Loch Earn, it followed on both banks the river of that name +for more than twenty miles, stretching upwards on either side to the +surrounding hills. Northwards it reached even the banks of the Almond, +while southwards it found its way into the uplands of Strathallan, and, +breaking by the pass of Gleneagles into the Ochils, it went right +through them to the level ground beyond, following the windings of the +Devon. As a background, rose the mighty peaks of the Grampians; in the +foreground lay the gentler, greener, rounded heights of the Ochil +range. The seat of the Presbytery was Auchterarder, a long, straggling +village, built along the crest of a rising ground; a mile or two +distant from the south bank of the Earn, and at the same time not far +from the top of Strathallan. Towards the close of the sixteenth +century we have to think of the various parishes above named as being +duly supplied with Protestant pastors, who met regularly in +Auchterardour for the "weekly exercise," and to dispose of any church +business that came before them. Most of these first members of the +Presbytery seem to have been cadets of the leading families of the +district, and, amongst them, Drummond, Graeme, Murray or Moray were +common names. The Presbytery of Auchterarder first begins to take a +prominent part in public affairs during the religious troubles of +Charles I. The Jenny Geddes riot in St Giles has just taken place, and +petitions are pouring in from all quarters against the ill-fated +service-book. The Privy Council is at its wits' end as between a king +resolved on innovations and a nation that will have none of them. It +sends up to London specimens of the petitions received--one from the +nobility, one from the gentry, one from the burghs, and a fourth from +the clergy. The clerical petition thus honoured was that from the +"Presbytrie of Auchtererdoch." The petition of this Presbytery was +probably selected not on account of the zealous character of the +opposition of its members, but on account of their known loyalty. The +impression to be produced on the King's mind was that, if even +Auchterarder opposed his designs, his projects were hopeless. The +Covenant was sworn, but Auchterarder was not zealous for the Covenant. +In the divisions of opinion, which led eventually to the rising of +Montrose, Auchterarder sympathised with the minority. A Warning and +Declaration with reference to these divisions was ordered by the +General Assembly to be read from every pulpit, and "the brethren of +Auchtererdoch" took it upon them to disobey. It was the first +illustration of that independence of judgment for which they have more +than once been famous. It was resolved to make an example of this +disobedient Presbytery, and they were cited before the Assembly of +1643. "The Presbytery of Auchtererdoch was under the rod," writes +Baillie, "to be made an example to all who would be turbulent." "After +long examination of their business," he continues, "at last they were +laureat. Some two or three of that Presbytery (when many of the gentry +who were not elders were permitted to sit among them and reason against +the Warning and Declaration, and when Ardoch presented reasons in write +against these pieces, yet they were proven to have been forward for the +present reading) were commended. Others who, notwithstanding of the +Presbytery's conclusion of not reading, yet did read, were, for voicing +the continuation, gently rebuked. Others who at last caused read parts +of them, and Mr James Rowe, who caused read them before himself came +in, were sharply rebuked, and their names delete from among the members +of this Assembly. Ardoch, ane old reverend gentleman, for his former +known zeal was spared, only, was urged upon oath to reveal the persons +from whom he had the reasons contrary to the Warning." This is a +curious picture of the internal condition of the Presbytery, and +exhibits in strong relief the friendly relations existing betwixt its +members and the gentry of the district. The James Rowe referred to was +minister of Muthill, and was married to Margaret Stirling, a daughter +of the laird of Ardoch, the "old reverend gentleman" above named. + +When, after the Restoration, Episcopacy was re-established, +Auchterarder once again formed part of the Diocese of Dunblane, and was +for a time under the mild sway of the Episcopate of Leighton. The +Episcopacy was almost nominal. There was no liturgy; the service +continued to be much what it had been before, though Leighton +encouraged the brethren to make their preaching "plain and useful for +all capacities, not entangled with useless questions and disputes, nor +continued to a wearisome length"; "to read larger portiones of the +Scriptures"; "to restore the Lord's Prayer to more frequent use, +likewyse the Doxologie and the Creed." The Presbytery continued to +meet as usual, and virtually elected its own Moderator. The chief +difference was that at the Synod the Bishop as of right occupied the +chair. At this period we have another interesting glimpse of the +internal condition of the Presbytery. It was complained to one Synod +that "some young men, ministers within the Presbytrie of Ochterarder, +had behaved themselves somewhat irreverendlie and undeutifullie towards +some of the brethren who were older than themselves both for age and +work of the ministrie. The Bishop having taken the samyne to +consideration, desired the Moderator of the Presbytrie of Ochterarder, +that at their first Presbyterial meeting, to admonish such brethren, +that in time coming they should absteine from such unbeseeming +misbehaviour, otherwyse to shew them that he would advert to it +hereafter." The young lions of Auchterarder had evidently {107} begun +to roar, catching something of the independent spirit of their seniors. + +In this district there was but little of the Covenanting feeling that +was rampant in the West. An Abdiel, however, was found among the +faithless in the person of William Spence, minister of Glendevon. In +1678 he laid a paper on the table of Presbytery in which he testified +against the errors of the times. He was dealt with with great leniency +and patience, but in the end he proved incorrigible. After long delay +he was at last, in the beginning of 1681, deposed and excommunicated by +the Bishop and Synod. From that time onwards he became a political +agent, and was mixed up in the plots which filled the closing years of +the reign of Charles II. In 1684 he was arrested and questioned. +Though made to undergo the torture of the boot, he refused to disclose +anything. He was then handed over to the tender mercies of General +Dalziel, the "Muscovy beast who would roast men," and was kept from +sleeping for eight or nine days till his enemies themselves were weary. +He had to be thumbscrewed, and told that they would screw every joint +of his body, one after another, before his courage began to fail. "Yet +{108} such was the firmness and fidelity of this poor man," writes +Bishop Burnet, "that even in that extremity he capitulated, that no new +questions should be put to him, but those already agreed on; and that +he should not be obliged to be a witness against any person, and that +he himself should be pardoned." After the Revolution he came back to +Glendevon; in 1691 was translated to Fossoway, and, having outlived all +his troubles, died there in peace in 1715 at the age of eighty. The +policy, with which he had associated himself as a minority of one, had +triumphed. + +The Revolution fell upon the Presbytery of Auchterarder like the very +crack of doom. All its members, with two exceptions, were ousted. +These were the Rev. James Roy, minister of Trinity-Gask, and the Rev. +Robert Sharp, M.A., minister of Muckhart. Unfortunately, at this +interesting period the Presbytery records are a blank. The last minute +before the Revolution is that of September 7, 1687; the next is that of +November 9, 1703. When the curtain thus rises again at the beginning +of the eighteenth century the _personnel_ of the Presbytery has +completely changed. Elsewhere the transformation seems to have been +accomplished with little difficulty; but it was different in the +Episcopal stronghold of Muthill. That parish, we find, has not yet +submitted to the authority of the Presbytery, and is still vacant. It +was not till August 3rd, 1704, that Mr William Haly was ordained as +minister of Muthill. On the day of his ordination there was a riot, +"several in the parish keeping the doors of the kirk and kirkyard with +swords and staves"; and not until the following year (March 20, 1705) +were the keys of the church of Muthill finally laid upon the table of +the Presbytery. The new members of the Presbytery were very different +from the old. They were now strongly Presbyterian in feeling, and +ultra-evangelical in theology. In 1711, when threatened with the Queen +Anne Act restoring Patronage, we find them instructing their +commissioners to the Assembly "to take all care that Patronages be not +again restored," and in the following year "to give a testimony against +the encroachments made on this church by the tolleration and +patronages." They were earnest in prayer on behalf of the Protestant +Succession of the House of Hanover. On account of the Jacobite rising +of 1715 there was no meeting of Presbytery from August 30, 1715, till +February 9, 1716. At this meeting reference is made to "the Popish and +Jacobite rebells who had infested the bounds, threatening ministers not +to pray against them and their pretended king, by reason whereof +ministers were forced to flee; and spoiling the goods of the people, +and robbing and burning their houses and corns; and now that they were +driven out of their bounds by the good providence of God accompanying +the king's forces with success against them." + +The Presbytery of Auchterarder had now to deal with a matter, small in +itself, which, nevertheless, created considerable stir in the Church +Courts, and ultimately led to secession. On December 11, 1716, Mr +William Craig, student of divinity, appeared before them for license. +The Presbytery being deeply impressed with "the errors of the times," +examined him strictly as to his soundness of faith. Further +consideration of the matter having been delayed for about a month, Mr +Craig was again (January 15, 1717) before the Presbytery; was asked by +them to sign the answers formerly given by him, and though he "seemed +to scruple a little at something of the wording" of some of them, he +finally did so, and was licensed. His signature still stands at that +date in the Presbytery's copy of the Confession of Faith. The most +famous statement signed by him was to the following effect:--"And +further, I believe that it is not sound and orthodox to teach that we +must forsake sin in order to our coming to Christ and instating us in +covenant with God"--language capable of bearing an Antinomian meaning, +and soon to be known as the "Auchterarder Creed." At next meeting of +Presbytery (February 12, 1717) Mr Craig came back, representing that he +was troubled with scruples anent the paper he had subscribed, that he +had done so hastily, and that he now wished to explain his explanation. +The Presbytery, after hearing him, resolved to declare his license null +and void, and in the end he had to appeal to the Assembly. The +Assembly of 1717 was somewhat startled at the theological language of +Auchterarder, ordered the Presbytery to restore Mr Craig's license, +declared the chief article of the new creed to be "unsound and most +detestable," and asked them to explain its meaning to a meeting of the +Commission. The Presbytery was of course able to show that their +meaning was both pious and orthodox, and that they had been only a +little over-zealous for the purity of the faith. In the old +Auchterarder fashion, they had been thinking for themselves, instead of +taking ready-made opinions from other people. One good result of the +commotion was that Presbyteries were henceforth prohibited from putting +queries of their own, preliminary to license, but "those and no other" +which had received the authority of the Church. Yet it had other +results which were evil. The discussion over the "Auchterarder Creed" +led to the re-publication of the "Marrow of Modern Divinity," and the +"Marrow Controversy" led directly to the secession of the Erskines. +The _origo mali_ was in Auchterarder. + +The "Rising" of 1745 did not interfere so much with the business of the +Presbytery as that of 1715 had done. During that eventful year it +continued to hold its meetings as usual. The only reference is that on +May 1, 1746, a fortnight after Culloden, the Presbytery appoints that +if His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland shall come this way in his +return from the North, certain members should wait upon him to +congratulate him upon the victory obtained by him over the rebels. + +On December 14, 1756, the celebrated tragedy of _Douglas_, written by +John Home, minister of Athelstaneford, in East Lothian, was acted in +Edinburgh. This atrocious fact caused much searching of heart in all +ultra-evangelical circles. The awful news reached Auchterarder. +Meeting in Glendevon Church on May 12, 1757, for the ordination of Mr +David M'Gibbon, the Presbytery came to the following resolution:--"The +Presbytery, taking into their serious consideration the general fame +that a minister of this Church has composed the tragedy of _Douglas_, +and has been at great pains to get it represented on the stage both at +London and at Edinburgh, to the scandal of very many; and the +Presbytery further considering how hurtful stage plays are to the +interest of religion, and to the morals of the people, and always were +held to be so in every well-regulated government, heathen as well as +Christian, therefore did and hereby do instruct their representatives +in the ensuing General Assembly humbly to insist with the venerable +Assembly that they would be pleased to make effectual enquiry, without +loss of time, into the ground of the above flame; and if it shall be +found to be indeed true {114} that ministers of the Gospel, members of +this Church, have done and behaved as above alledged, that the General +Assembly would be pleased to enquire if such adequate censure has been +inflicted on these brethren as their crime deserves; and if it has not, +that the venerable Assembly would order it to be done, and that they +would be further pleased to give some publick testimony of their +abhorrence of such practices, that the world may see the just +resentment of this Church against so uncommon and unprecedented a +behaviour in some of her undutiful sons, and that they would do this in +such a manner as shall appear to the venerable Assembly to be most +effectual for preventing the like in any of their members of whatever +degree in time coming." The zeal of Auchterarder was burning with a +holy fire. + +In the course of the eighteenth century the best known members of the +Presbytery were the dynasty of Moncrieffs at Blackford, and Dr. John +Kemp, of Trinity-Gask. Of the former, three generations succeeded each +other from 1697 to 1775, in which year Sir Henry Moncrieff left +Blackford to become minister of the West Kirk, Edinburgh. Of Dr. Kemp, +who left Trinity-Gask {115} in 1776, to become minister of New +Greyfriars, Edinburgh, a full account will be found in Kay's _Edinburgh +Portraits_. He was three times married, his second and third wives +being Earls' daughters. + +The century was now drawing to a close. Since the Reformation there +had been no church extension within the bounds of the Presbytery. At +last, however, there was to be an awakening from this long sleep. The +district of Ardoch formed the southern portion of the parish of +Muthill. In the centre of it lay the famous Roman Camp, one of the +most ancient historic spots in Scotland, whose earthen trenches had +been thrown up by the soldiers of Agricola. It was the traditional +site of the Battle of Mons Grampius, where Galgacus and his Caledonians +fought for liberty, and, after all that has been written on the +subject, is as probably the real site as any other. There, in 1780, a +chapel of ease was built, and opened for worship on March 25, 1781. +The bounds of the chapel also included a small portion of the parish of +Blackford, and a larger portion of that of Dunblane, the Presbytery +thus extending its jurisdiction down the banks of the Allan to within a +few miles of the cathedral city. The Chapel at Ardoch was the +Presbytery's first-born child. In later years, in connection with the +Church Extension movement, promoted by Dr. Chalmers, the West Church +was built in Crieff in 1838, and the Chapel of Blairingone, in the +parish of Fossoway, in 1840. Thus equipped, the Presbytery of +Auchterarder was to meet the storm of 1843. + +In the earlier years of the nineteenth century there were even to +observant eyes no signs of the coming blast. The Act of Queen Anne, +restoring Patronage, though long protested against, had been sullenly +acquiesced in by the Church. Moderates and Evangelicals, though +contending together in the several Church Courts, kept themselves +carefully within the limits of the Church's constitution. But a new +era was about to dawn. The struggle for political liberty which found +expression in the great Reform Act of 1832, had its counterpart also in +the ecclesiastical world. Patronage was again felt to be an +intolerable burden, and the rights of the Christian people to require +vindication. In these changed circumstances it became a difficult and +delicate matter to "redd the marches" between the Church and State. +With level-headed common-sense upon both sides it might have been done. +Unfortunately, in the struggle our most prominent national +characteristics, instead of being combined, got opposed to one another. +The proverbial "canniness" of the Scottish nation was all upon the one +side; the equally proverbial _perfervidum ingenium_ was all upon the +other. Led by the latter feeling, the Church resolved to fall back on +her own inherent rights and to get quit of Patronage by a side wind. +In 1834 she passed the Veto Act, giving power to "the major part of the +male heads of families, members of the vacant congregation," in any +parish to get quit of an unpopular presentee. The Presbytery of +Auchterarder was doomed to be the cockpit in which this great fight was +to be fought out. In the autumn of 1834 the Rev. Robert Young was +presented to the parish of Auchterarder by the Earl of Kinnoull. At +the moderation of his call on 2nd December the Rev. John Clark, +Blackford, preached from Mark xii., 10-11, a text somewhat interesting +in the light of what afterwards took place--"And have ye not read this +scripture: The stone which the builders rejected is become the head of +the corner: This was the Lord's doing, and is marvellous in our eyes?" +Mr Young's call was signed by three persons, for the Earl of Kinnoull +as Patron, and by two members of the congregation. He was vetoed by +287 male heads of families, and the Presbytery had no option under the +Act but to reject the call. This decision was confirmed on appeal to +the Assembly, and Mr Young and the Earl of Kinnoull had to seek redress +in the Civil Courts. The "Auchterarder Case" now attracted the +attention of the whole country. It raised the question of the legality +of the Veto Act. In November, 1837, it was heard before the whole +Court of Session, and the Judges by a majority found that, Mr Young +having been duly presented, the Presbytery was bound to take him upon +trials. An appeal was ultimately taken to the House of Lords, and by +it, in 1839, the decision of the Court of Session was re-affirmed. By +the highest legal authority the Veto Act was found to be worthless. +But the Church had gone too far to retrace her steps, and she now +raised the banner of Spiritual Independence. Other questions had come +to the front which heightened and intensified the feeling that +prevailed. By the equally illegal Chapel Act, also passed in 1834, +chapel districts were formed into parishes _quoad sacra_, and their +ministers found entitled to seats in the Church Courts. The minister +of Ardoch Chapel at once took his seat in the Presbytery, and was +followed in due time by the ministers of the West Church, Crieff, and +the Chapel at Blairingone. The Church had been led into an _impasse_ +from which there was no outlet but by secession. The secession came. +In defence of their somewhat mysterious principles no fewer than 451 +ministers, on the 18th day of May, 1843, left the Church. All the +world wondered. It was said that in no country other than Scotland +could such a spectacle have been seen. Yet one cannot help looking +back with sorrow upon the blundering that made it possible. Like the +Charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava, it was "magnificent, but not +war." + +With the addition of the chapel ministers the membership of +Auchterarder Presbytery had risen to eighteen. The parish of +Auchterarder was still vacant. Of the remaining seventeen, eight were +found to have seceded. Of these, five were legal members of +Presbytery--viz., James Carment, Comrie; Peter Brydie, Fossoway; John +Reid Omond, Monzie; John Ferguson, Monzievaird; and James Thomson, +Muckhart. The three others were the chapel ministers--Samuel Grant, +Ardoch; Finlay Macalister, West Church, Crieff; and Andrew Noble, +Blairingone. The case of Mr Brydie, of Fossoway, was somewhat +peculiar. On October 13, 1843, he petitioned the Presbytery asking it +to annul its judgment with regard to him, and submitted a medical +certificate to the effect that at the time of his secession he was "in +a state of lunacy." The Presbytery, having consulted the Synod, +reponed him, on the ground that at the time he separated himself from +the Church he had been in a state of unsound mind. + +The Presbytery now once more consisted of fifteen parishes and three +chapels. The vacancies in the parishes were easily supplied. It was +different with the chapels. A new minister was, indeed, ordained at +Ardoch in December, 1844, but it was 1848 before the West Church, +Crieff, and the Chapel of Blairingone were once more re-opened for +worship in connection with the Church of Scotland. The decks had been +cleared after the storm, the rigging re-fitted, and the sails spread +once more to catch the favouring breeze. In a few years the +Presbytery's organisation had become more efficient than ever. In 1854 +certain portions of the parishes of Monzie and Foulis were disjoined +from the Presbytery to form a part of the new parish of Logiealmond. +In 1855, Ardoch was erected into a parish _quoad omnia_. In 1864, the +West Church, Crieff, became a parish _quoad sacra_. The Chapel of +Blairingone was also by and by to become a parish; yet, when it did so, +it no longer formed a part of the Presbytery of Auchterarder. In 1856 +the General Assembly determined to create a new Presbytery of Kinross, +and for this purpose to disjoin the two parishes of Muckhart and +Fossoway (the latter including Blairingone) from the Presbytery with +which they had been associated for two hundred and fifty years. +Auchterarder refused her consent, and protested, but in vain. She was +bereaved of her children. + +This change somewhat altered the centre of gravity of the Presbytery. +Hitherto Auchterarder had been its natural centre, and its most +convenient place of meeting. From this time onwards it began +occasionally to meet at Crieff. In 1866 an Act of Assembly was passed +ordaining it to meet alternately in Auchterarder and Crieff. + +After the Secession of 1843 a subtle change began to creep over the +opinions of the Presbytery. It was no longer the ultra-evangelical +body which it had been for more than a century. It began to take +broader views of culture and of human life. Were another minister of +the Church of Scotland now to write a new tragedy of _Douglas_ he would +be likely to receive its congratulations rather than its denunciations. +Its theology became sweeter, and it is in no danger of framing a new +"Auchterarder Creed" upon the lines of the last. When the new movement +began for the improvement of public worship there was, indeed, enough +of the old leaven left to lead to a vigorous resistance. This struggle +centred round "The Crieff Organ Case" in 1866-67. Ultimately, however, +the new views prevailed, and at the present moment (1896) the once +hated "kist of whistles" has found its way into no fewer than thirteen +out of the sixteen parishes which at present compose the Presbytery. +Since the days of that conflict, indeed, its spirit has broadened and +broadened. The old independent tone, for which it had been conspicuous +even in the seventeenth century, has become more and more marked. In +recent years the Presbytery has never been willing tamely to follow the +lead of Assembly leaders and Assembly Committees, but has insisted on +expressing a vigorous opinion of its own upon all the questions of the +day. + +In the course of the present century several ministers, afterwards to +become better known, have begun their respective careers within the +bounds of the Presbytery. Dr. William Robertson, latterly minister of +New Greyfriars, Edinburgh, was ordained as minister of Muckhart in +1831. Dr. Robert Home Stevenson, minister of St. George's, Edinburgh, +Moderator of the General Assembly of 1871, was ordained in 1840 as +assistant and successor in the parish of Crieff. Dr. John Cunningham, +minister of Crieff from 1845 to 1887, was Moderator of the General +Assembly of 1886, and was latterly Principal of St. Mary's College, St. +Andrews. His successor in the Moderatorship of Assembly, Dr. George +Hutchison, Banchory-Ternan, was ordained as minister of Monzie in 1845. +Dr. Paton J. Gloag, then of Galashiels, Moderator of the Assembly of +1889, was ordained in 1848 as assistant and successor in the parish of +Dunning. Dr. John Wilson, a genial man, much beloved by all his +brethren, was minister of Dunning from 1861 to 1878, Clerk of +Presbytery from 1864, and author of "Index to the Acts of Assembly." +Dr. William Mair, minister of Ardoch from 1865 to 1868, is now of +Earlston, and author of the well-known "Digest of Church Laws." + +The loss of Muckhart and Fossoway, the addition of Ardoch and Crieff +West left the Presbytery still with its original number of fifteen +parishes. There was yet another to be added. In the extreme west of +the parish of Comrie, at the point where the River Earn leaves its +parent lake, was the district of Dundurn. Next to Ardoch, it was +probably the oldest historic spot within the Presbytery. There, first +of all places within the bounds, had the Gospel in the course of the +sixth century been preached by the saintly Fillan. It was still +haunted by sacred memories. It had been the site of a pre-Reformation +chapel. It had long been a preaching-place for the minister of Comrie. +Latterly there had sprung up by the shores of the beautiful lake a +hamlet which called itself St. Fillans. It became a favourite place of +summer resort. In 1879 a new chapel was built, and in 1895 the +district of Dundurn was erected into a parish _quoad sacra_. + +At the present moment (1896) the Presbytery thus consists of sixteen +parishes, all fully equipped; 94 elders and 5023 church members form +its effective strength as a part of the Church militant. It has faced +many a serious crisis in the past; with a calm cheerfulness it faces +the future. + + + + +MEMORIES OF GASK + +By Rev. JAMES MARTIN, Gask + +The parish of Gask is a comparatively small one both in population and +in territorial extent. The earliest historical record we have of it +goes back to the time of the invasion of Britain by the Romans. The +road which passes along the ridge of high ground was originally made by +the Romans, and was designed to form a line of communication between +the camp at Ardoch and the camp at Bertha, near the junction of the +Almond with the Tay. On the north side of it, in this parish, there +are still to be distinctly seen two small camps or stations, and on the +south side of it there is a larger one. The Romans have left traces of +their presence here in the works they constructed, which the lapse of +eighteen centuries has not entirely obliterated. + +Coming down the stream of time, we find that Wallace, that noble and +disinterested patriot, sought a hiding-place in time of danger amid its +dense woods. During a visit to Perth in 1296, a plot was laid by the +English to capture him, but, having received timely warning, he made +his escape with his small band of followers to Gascon Ha'. This is +generally supposed to have occupied a different site from the ruin near +the River Earn which now bears that name, and which is celebrated by +Lady Nairne in the song of "Bonnie Gascon Ha'." The Gascon Ha' to +which Wallace repaired for safety from his treacherous and relentless +enemies is said to have stood a mile and a half to the north-east of +that ruin in the midst of the Gask woods. Here they prepared to pass +the night, and having obtained two sheep from a neighbouring fold, they +kindled a fire and made ready their evening repast. Greatly exhausted +with their long and fatiguing march, Wallace proposed that his +followers should rest while he would keep watch. During the course of +the night he was startled by the "blowing of horns mingled with +frightful yells, proceeding apparently from a rising ground in the +immediate neighbourhood." Scouts were sent out from time to time, but +all failing to return, the patriot was at last left alone. He wandered +about till morning, killing two of the English whom he encountered, one +of whom was Sir John Butler, and then hastened with all speed to +Torwood, near Dunipace, where his uncle was parish priest. + +At an early period the lands now comprehended in this parish belonged +to the Earl of Strathearn, the great landowner in this district at that +time. It is said that he possessed all the lands lying between the +Cross of Macduff, near Newburgh, and the west end of Balquhidder in +length, and between the Ochils and the Grampians in breadth. It was +out of his lands of Nether Gask that he granted liberty to quarry +stones for building the Abbey of Inchaffray, along with two acres of +ground on which to erect workshops. + +The lands of Gask have now been in the possession of the Oliphant +family for nearly six hundred years. The name was originally written +Olifard, then Olyfaunt, and now Oliphant. Sir William Olyfaunt was the +first of that name on whom these lands were bestowed by King Robert the +Bruce. Sir William occupied a prominent position in the early history +of our country. He was Governor of Stirling Castle, and when summoned +in the name of Edward I. to surrender it, made the noble reply, "I have +never sworn fealty to Edward, but I have sworn to keep the Castle, and +must wait the order of my constituent." And when the Castle was +besieged by Edward and his army he defended it for three months, and +only capitulated from the scarcity of provisions. He was a member of +the Parliament held at Aberbrothock in 1320, and subscribed along with +some other Scottish Barons the famous letter to the Pope, which so +nobly asserted the independence of Scotland. To that document were +affixed the seals of Sir William Olyfaunt and Malise, Earl of +Strathearn. He died in 1329, and was buried in the Church of +Aberdalgie, where a monument of black marble was erected to his memory. +When the present Church of Aberdalgie was built in 1773 the site was +changed, and the monument to Sir William Olyfaunt was left in the open +churchyard. In 1780, Mr Oliphant of Gask erected a stone covering over +it to protect it from injury by the weather. + +Sir William was succeeded by his son, Walter Olyfaunt, who married a +daughter of King Robert the Bruce, and, "having resigned the lands of +Gask into the hands of his brother-in-law, David II., obtained, in +1364, a new charter confirming them to the said Walter and his spouse +Elizabeth, our beloved sister, on a peculiar tenure for the reddendum +of a chaplet of white roses at the feast of the nativity of St. John +the Baptist at the manor place of Gask." This incident has been +happily expressed in a poem by Miss Ethel Blair Oliphant, now Mrs +Maxtone Graham, who inherits much of the poetic genius of her +great-grand-aunt, Lady Nairne. + + +THE TRIBUTE OF GASK + + Now ken ye the gift Gask has brought to the King? + 'Tis an off'ring sae royal, sae perfect, and fair, + Than jewels o' siller more dainty and rare, + A crown for a maid or a monarch to wear. + The courtier's tribute is but a poor thing, + For what can he offer and what can he bring, + Than the crown of White Roses from Gask to the King? + + Now ken ye the service Gask does for the King? + All for his sake, in the bloom of the year, + In the gardens of Gask the white blossoms appear-- + The Royal White Roses to Scotland sae dear. + Then far o'er Stralhearn let the praise of them ring, + Let them live once again in the song that we sing, + The crown of White Roses from Gask to the King. + + Now ken ye what Gask will yet do for the King? + In the days that may come, when the roses are dead, + When the pledge is forgotten, the vows left unsaid; + What then shall lie found for an off'ring instead? + Oh! then at his feet his heart he will fling. + Truth, Honour, Devotion, as tribute will bring + For the crown of White Roses from Gask to the King! + +This charter, which has always been highly prized by the Gask family, +had a rather singular history during the last century. In 1746 the +Duke of Cumberland sent out Sir Joseph York from Perth to search the +House of Gask, when he took away a box containing the charter, and it +was not till forty years after that it was traced to its hiding-place, +restored to its rightful owners, and safely deposited in the Gask +charter chest. The Oliphants obtained large estates in different parts +of Scotland, and were raised to the Peerage by James II., in 1450, by +the title of Lord Oliphant. The fifth Lord, styled in the Gask papers +"ane base and unworthy man," squandered away the large estates he +inherited not only in Perthshire, but also in Forfarshire, Kincardine, +Caithness, and Haddington. One of the younger branches of the Oliphant +family purchased from his spendthrift cousin the lands of Gask, which +have ever since continued in the same family. + +Laurence Oliphant was, in the year 1650, knighted by Charles II., when +that monarch was at Scone. He for a capricious reason disinherited his +eldest son, Patrick, and gave the lands of Gask to his second son and +his heirs. About fifty years thereafter the estate of Gask, from the +failure of heirs in the younger branch, came into the possession of +James, the eldest son of the disinherited Patrick. + +While James Oliphant resided at Williamston, before he succeeded to +Gask, he devised and carried out a great practical improvement in that +locality. He along with some others applied to the Scotch Parliament +in 1690 for an Act to compel all the adjoining proprietors to +contribute their share towards the expense of cutting a channel +sufficiently deep and broad to carry off the water, which at that time +must have frequently flooded the fields, and thus reclaimed much +valuable land. About forty years ago a considerable sum was expended +in still further deepening and broadening the Pow, and that stream +never overflows its banks now unless in very rainy seasons. As the +estate of Gask is bounded by the Pow on the north side, it shared in +the benefits resulting from that improvement. Mr Oliphant succeeded to +Gask in 1705, and would doubtless display the same practical sagacity +in carrying out improvements on the estate which then came into his +possession. He probably planted some of those noble trees which still +surround the mansion-house, and which are undoubtedly of great age. + +At the Revolution in 1688, when James II. was driven from the throne +of Britain, the Oliphants still retained their steadfast allegiance and +devoted loyalty to the exiled monarch, and regarded his successors as +usurpers. Cherishing these sentiments, we can well imagine they would +hail every enterprise that had for its object the restoration of their +hereditary king. An opportunity soon occurred. In 1715, a "Rising" +took place to accomplish this end. The laird of Gask, though strongly +favouring the movement, yet with great prudence remained at home, and +saved his estate from forfeiture. But he sent his two elder sons to +join the standard which the Earl of Mar had reared for the restoration +of the Chevalier St. George, the only son of James II. They both took +part in the battle which was fought at Sheriffmuir, on the 13th +November, between the Jacobite forces, led by the Earl of Mar, and the +Government forces under the command of the Duke of Argyle. It was an +indecisive battle, both sides claiming the victory. The Jacobites, +retreating through Strathearn, burned many of the villages, inflicting +great hardships on the peaceful inhabitants by rendering them houseless +during the rigour of winter. The attempt to restore the Chevalier St. +George soon collapsed, but it does not seem to have been followed by +the thrilling scenes, the hairbreadth escapes, and the rigorous +treatment which marked the close of the subsequent rebellion. + +James Oliphant died in 1732, and was succeeded by his eldest son +Laurence, who is styled the "Jacobite Laird, _par excellence_." He had +been in hiding for some time after the "Rising" of 1715. He, however, +soon returned home, freed from all Suspicion of disloyalty. He +married, in 1719, a daughter of the second Lord Nairne, "who was as +staunch a Jacobite as himself." At Gask House there is a wooden cup, +with a silver rim near the top and another near the bottom. The upper +one has the inscription--"_Spumantem calicem paternum in regis legitimi +hoeredetarii salutem redditumque felicem loete haurimus_"; and a free +translation of this inscription is on the lower one--"Our grandsires' +flowing cup we drink, and sing God save; restore our true-born lawful +King. Amen. L.O.G. June 10th, 1740." This discloses the strong +Jacobite tendency which he cherished, and the ardent longing which he +felt for the happy return of his hereditary King. He had not long to +wait till another opportunity occurred of making a second attempt to +accomplish the object so dear to him. In 1745, Prince Charles landed +in the Western Isles, when the Highland Clans rallied to his standard +with many others favourable to his cause. The laird and his son--both +Laurence--joined Prince Charles at Perth, and incurred the risk of loss +of life and property. Gask was greatly annoyed that he could not +induce his tenants to enlist in the cause of the Prince, and he had +recourse to a very extreme measure to enforce compliance with his +wishes. In connection with this we have a very interesting statement +in "The Jacobite Lairds of Gask," being a quotation from Dr. Chambers' +_History of the Rebellion_. Perhaps no one experienced so much +difficulty in his levies as the good laird of Gask, though he was at +the same time, perhaps, the person of all others the most anxious to +provide men for the service of his beloved Prince. This enthusiastic +Jacobite was, it seems, so extremely incensed at the resistance he +received from some of his tenants that he actually laid an arrestment +or inhibition upon their corn-fields, in order to see if their interest +would not oblige them to comply with his request. The case was still +at issue when Charles, in marching from Perth, observed the corn +hanging dead ripe, and eagerly inquired the reason. He was informed +that Gask had not only prohibited his tenants from cutting their grain, +but would not permit their cattle to be fed upon it, so that these +creatures were absolutely starving. Shocked at what he heard, he +leaped from the saddle, exclaiming, "This will never do," and began to +gather a quantity of the corn. Giving this to his horse, he said to +those that were by that he had thus broken Gask's inhibition, and the +farmers might now, upon his authority, proceed to put the produce of +their fields to its proper use. It was on this occasion that the laird +of Gask had the high honour of receiving and entertaining the Prince at +his house. The table on which he breakfasted is still in the House of +Gask, and in good preservation. It bears the inscription--"Charles, +Prince of Wales, breakfasted at this table in the low drawing-room at +Gask on the 11th September, 1745." The chair on which he then sat was +not allowed to be occupied by any other for many years thereafter. +There are still at Gask House several interesting relics of Prince +Charles, which are carefully preserved--viz., his bonnet, the Royal +brogues, crucifix, and ribbon of the Garter, his spurs, and a lock of +his hair, &c. The high honour conferred on the Gask family by this +visit from their Prince would tend to inspire them with greater zeal +and ardour in advancing his cause. They continued faithful and devoted +followers of the Prince in the romantic attempt he made to regain the +throne of his ancestors, and they took part in many of the battles that +were fought to secure that object. They were both present on the field +of Culloden and fought with great bravery on the fatal day that proved +so disastrous to the Prince's cause, and which must have all but +extinguished the most sanguine hopes of the keenest Jacobite. After +the Battle of Culloden the Oliphants endured great hardships for six +months while hiding among the hills of Buchan, and had many narrow +escapes, until at last they landed in Sweden on the 10th November, 1746. + +But while they were involved in many troubles in those trying times, +there arose one from an unexpected quarter, which caused them great +annoyance. In 1740, Mr Oliphant, as almost sole heritor, intruded the +Rev. John M'Leish into the parish, in opposition to the wishes of a +large majority of the people. But he lived deeply to regret the step +he then took, for, on the outbreak of the Rebellion in 1745, the +minister became one of his most bitter enemies. Some of the colours +taken at the Battle of Prestonpans "fell to Mr Oliphant, which he sent +to his own house at Gask." Mr M'Leish, knowing this, searched for them +to deliver them to the Duke of Cumberland, but Emily Dewar, a faithful +servant at the house, hid them in the pump, so that the minister could +not find them. He told the tenants not to pay their rents to a rebel +landlord. When the Duke of Cumberland, at the request of Lady Gask, +sent out a guard from Perth to protect that lady in those troublous +times, the minister, on hearing this, was highly indignant, and +said--"What right had they to protect a rebel lady?" He also said that +he would go to Perth next day and speak to the Duke of Cumberland about +this. He said and did so many things calculated to annoy and irritate +the Gask family, that years after, when hiding on the Continent, Mr +Oliphant wrote saying--"That ingrate man's actings have tried my +patience more than all that has happened to me." The conduct of the +minister to the laird during this trying period was surely most harsh +and unkind, even though he entertained different political views. Mr +M'Leish would probably regard, as a national calamity, the restoration +of the Stuarts, knowing well the arbitrary and unconstitutional way +they often acted when in power. He might also fear that there would be +great danger to the Protestant cause were a Roman Catholic to occupy +the throne of Britain. But while we sympathise with these sentiments, +and think that Mr M'Leish was quite entitled to hold them, it was +surely ungrateful and unkind to act in the way he often did, not only +to Mr Oliphant, but also to his lady. The Oliphants were thoroughly +conscientious in holding their principles, and they gave the strongest +proof of this in risking their life and the loss of all their worldly +substance in maintaining them. At the same time, we are of opinion +that theirs was a mistaken loyalty, and it was well that they did not +succeed in accomplishing their object. Had they done so, it is +probable that the civil and religious history of our country would have +been different, and Britain might not have attained to the high +position she now occupies among the nations. But, while holding this +opinion, we cannot fail to admire the inflexible steadfastness with +which they adhered to their principles, and the noble sacrifices they +made in support of them. It is supposed that, as Lady Nairne would +often hear from her father of the doings of Mr M'Leish, she has a hit +at him in one of her songs-- + + "M'Leish's ae daughter o' Claverse-ha' Lee," + +In his latter days, Mr M'Leish was in a very infirm state, and unable +to discharge his ministerial duties. During the two last years of his +life there was only public worship in Gask Church once a month. The +days on which divine service was held, and the names of the ministers +who officiated, are still to be seen in our Session records. During +his long illness it is interesting to read of the tender sympathy which +Mr Oliphant expressed for him, and the Christian spirit of forgiveness +which he manifested towards him. He wrote from the Continent:--"I'm +sorry to hear that Mr M'Leish has been so much distressed in his +health. It will perhaps be agreeable to him, and let him know that I +do heartyly forgive him all the injurys he has done me undeservidly.... +I shall mention no other particulars of the way he has treated me, but +as I have sincerly forgiven, I pray our commune Father to forgive him, +which I hope he will be earnest to obtain." There is no record that Mr +M'Leish ever felt or expressed regret at the unkind way in which he had +treated his benefactor. + +The Oliphants, after making their escape from this country to the +Continent in 1746, continued to reside in different places there for +seventeen years. And during that long period they sent home to their +friends in this country a great many letters giving a detailed account +of their movements, and of their meeting with other exiles suffering +with them in the same cause and for maintaining the same principles of +loyalty. And these papers and letters, preserved in the Gask +charter-room, have been turned to excellent account by the present Mr +Oliphant in the very interesting volume he compiled entitled _The +Jacobite Lairds of Gask_. + +As both father and son took part in the Rebellion, the estate of Gask +was forfeited. But it was re-purchased from the Government in 1753 by +Mr Oliphant of Condie, who was understood to be acting for the Gask +family, at the sum of £17,800. The estate was, however, larger then +than it is now, including both Cowgask and Williamston. The two latter +were afterwards sold to pay part of the purchase money for Gask. It +was at one time proposed to sell the Ross and Newmiln, but Mr Oliphant +objected to this, as he considered these two farms the most improvable +part of the estate. We are told in _The Jacobite Lairds of Gask_ that +few lost more than the Oliphants by the "Rising" of 1745. If we reckon +the seven years in which the estate was withheld from them, and the +large sum for which it was bought back from Government, these losses +would come to about £60,000 of our money. + +The Oliphants returned to Gask after an absence of seventeen years, in +November, 1763. As Mr M'Leish died on the 24th March of the same year, +the laird and the minister never met again. + +After all the dangers to which they had been exposed on the field of +battle, and all the hardships they had to encounter during the long +period they were in hiding on the Continent, they were at last +permitted to return in safety to their native land, to spend the +evening of their days in their "Ain dear wee Auld House." + +The elder Jacobite laird died in 1767, and was gathered to his fathers +in the old Kirk of Gask. He was succeeded by his only son, the younger +Jacobite laird. He continued to adhere with the most unshaken +steadfastness to the cause of the Prince, for whom he had done and +suffered so much, and brought up his family in the strictest principles +of loyalty to the King over the water. When his family read the +newspapers to him after his eyesight became impaired, if the names King +or Queen occurred, they must only indicate this by employing the +initials K. or Q., otherwise he sharply reproved them. + +When Prince Charles died in 1788, leaving an only brother, Cardinal +York, many of the Jacobites transferred their allegiance to George +III., and most of the Scotch Episcopalian clergy began to pray for the +reigning family, which they had not hitherto done. Among these was Mr +Cruickshanks, Episcopal minister at Muthill, who occasionally +officiated at Gask. When Mr Oliphant heard this, he at once wrote to +Mr Cruickshanks that, as he had now disqualified himself for +officiating at Gask, his services would be henceforth dispensed with. +He sent to him his official robes, and returned some books, the reading +of which he had got from Mr Cruickshanks. It is said that George III., +hearing of Gask's unswerving constancy, sent, by the member of +Parliament for Perthshire, his compliments--not the compliments of the +King of England, but of the Elector of Hanover--to Mr Oliphant. He +died in 1792, and was succeeded by his eldest son Laurence, the third +of that name in succession. It was this laird who pulled down the +"Auld House" in 1800, except a part of the front wall, which was +allowed to stand, as an interesting ruin, and around which now centre +so many tender and hallowed associations. He also built the present +large and substantial mansion-house, which occupies a commanding +situation a few yards from the "Auld House." With the concurrence of +the Presbytery, he removed the Parish Church and manse from the site on +which they had stood for several centuries to another about a mile to +the north. This must have been in many respects a very desirable +change, both for the laird and the minister. There were only a few +yards formerly between the mansion-house and the manse, and this +proximity must have at times been rather uncomfortable for both. A +more eligible site, however, could easily have been got on which to +build the new church and manse, but it possesses the great advantage of +being central for the whole parish. + +About the period at which we have now arrived in our narrative there +was emerging into fame a member of the Oliphant family, who was +destined to throw as bright a lustre around that name as any who had +ever borne it--who is styled "the brightest jewel in the Oliphant +crown." I refer to Carolina Oliphant, who was the third daughter of +the younger Jacobite laird, and who was named after the King over the +water. She was born in the "Auld House"--which she afterwards +celebrated in song--in the year 1766. She gave early indication of +superior poetic genius and high musical accomplishments. Her great aim +was to purify the national songs, and to render them more suitable for +the use of the people. And she was led to attempt this from an +incident related in her memoirs. "Driving, during the annual fair, +through a small hamlet in the neighbourhood, she remarked many persons +holding in their hands a small book with a yellow cover. Desirous of +ascertaining what a publication so popular might contain, she +despatched her footman to purchase a copy. It proved to be a +collection of songs and ballads, many of which were ill suited for the +hands of youth." But she also composed a large number of original +songs of great excellence, two of which are of exquisite beauty and +tenderness--"The Land o' the Leal" and "The Auld House." In early life +Miss C. Oliphant had an intimate friend and companion in Miss Erskine, +daughter of the Episcopal minister at Muthill. Miss Erskine was +afterwards married to Campbell Colquhoun of Killermont. Their first +child died when scarcely a year old. This led Carolina Oliphant to +write "The Land o' the Leal," which she sent with a letter of +condolence to Mrs Colquhoun in her sad bereavement. But the strictest +secrecy was enjoined as to the writer of it, and for many years +thereafter only a very few knew that this beautiful and touching song +was written by Carolina Oliphant. At one time it was supposed to have +been written by Burns on his death-bed, and the first line then +was--"I'm wearin' awa', Jean"; but it never appeared in any collection +of his poems. The songs of Lady Nairne have now become so well known +and so highly appreciated, that it is scarcely necessary to refer to +them at fuller detail here. She was married to Major Nairne in 1806 in +an upper room of Gask House. As Major Nairne then held an official +appointment in Edinburgh, they took up their abode in that city, in a +cottage built for them by the old Chief of Strowan, called Carolina +Cottage. She there employed her pen in composing songs for the +_Scotish Minstrel_, while she enjoyed the intellectual society into +which she had been introduced, and in which she was so well fitted to +shine. One of her songs, "The Attainted Scottish Nobles," had a great +influence in restoring them to their former titles. When George IV. +visited Edinburgh in 1822, Major Nairne and other attainted Scottish +Peers were introduced to the King at Holyrood. And when it came to the +knowledge of the King that Mrs Nairne had written that song it made him +favourable to the introduction of a measure which passed through both +Houses of Parliament, and received the Royal sanction in June, 1824, +for the reversal of the attainders. Major Nairne was then restored to +his rank in the Peerage as Lord Nairne, and Mrs Nairne became Baroness +Nairne, by which she has ever since been known. + +Lord Nairne died in 1830, and was succeeded in the title by his only +son, William, sixth Lord. Lady Nairne felt deeply her bereavement, but +was sustained under it by the comforts and consolations of religion. +She henceforth devoted all her efforts to the mental culture and moral +and religious training of her only child. She removed to different +parts of the country for the benefit of his health. But with all her +maternal care he sickened and died at Brussels in 1837. By the death +of her son the ties which bound her to the world were in a great +measure severed, and her thoughts and affections were raised to that +higher and holier state on which those who were nearest and dearest to +her had now entered. She returned to Gask in 1845, and spent the last +two years of her life within a few yards of the spot where she was +born. She had received early religious impressions when on a visit to +Murthly Castle, and these were greatly deepened by the successive +trials and bereavements wherewith she was visited. She still continued +to take a great delight in doing good and in contributing to advance +the cause of religion in the world. Having a sum of money at her +disposal, she consulted Dr. Chalmers as to the most useful and +charitable purposes to which it might be applied. And it was at this +time that she contributed £300 to Dr. Chalmers' West Port Mission, on +the condition that he should never reveal the name of the donor. She +was as careful to conceal her good deeds as she had been to conceal the +authorship of the beautiful songs she composed. She gradually became +weaker and weaker, but as the "outward man decayed the inward man was +renewed day by day." In her song of the "Auld House" she beautifully +describes how, at the evening of the day, + + "The setting sun, the setting sun, + How glorious it gae'd doon." + +So in the evening of the day of her life her sun went gloriously down +to rise and shine in a fairer land--"The Land o' the Leal." She was +buried in Gask Chapel, which is erected on the site of the old Parish +Church, and to the building of which she contributed. A few years ago +a granite cross of beautiful design and workmanship was erected to her +memory by Mr Oliphant in the grounds of Gask. It bears the appropriate +inscription:-- + + CARMINA MORTE CARENT + CAROLINA OLIPHANT + BARONESS NAIRNE + BORN AT GASK, 1766 + DIED AT GASK, 1845 + +If superior poetical genius, great moral worth, and high Christian +character deserve to be held in remembrance, there are few more +entitled to this honour than Lady Nairne. Nor could a more appropriate +spot have been chosen by Mr Oliphant on which to rear this tribute of +affectionate regard to the memory of his grand-aunt than in the midst +of that beautiful scenery which she loved so well, and which she has +immortalised in her songs. Lady Nairne, however, has reared for +herself a monument far more durable than that of brass or granite, in +her beautiful songs, which, as the inscription truly says, will never +die. + +I must here make a brief reference to a native of this parish, who, +although born and brought up in humble life, yet attained to great +eminence in his profession. I refer to Laurence Macdonald, who for +some time wrought as a common mason, but who showed a strong genius for +sculpture. The first piece of work of that kind that he did was the +family coat-of-arms of Garvock House. Mrs Oliphant discerning his +rising genius in this direction, took him to the Continent when the +Gask family removed there in 1822, to afford him better opportunity for +the cultivation of this art. He ultimately settled in Rome, and became +one of the first British sculptors in that city. He was there known as +Lorenzo de Gasco, from his native parish. In recognition of the +kindness he had received from the Gask family, he afterwards sent as a +gift to the laird one of his best works, which now occupies a prominent +position in the House of Gask. + +James Blair Oliphant died in 1847, and was buried in the Gask Chapel. +"He was the eighteenth in unbroken male succession from the William +Oliphant upon whom Robert Bruce bestowed the lands of Gask." After his +death the estate was under trustees for nearly twenty years. And +during this period a litigation was carried on as to the right of +succession. Mr Oliphant of Condie was confident that he could +establish his claim to be the nearest male heir. But there was a link +wanting in the chain of evidence, and he failed to realise his sanguine +expectations. The estate then came into the possession of the late +laird's sister's family, when the eldest son, Mr Kington Oliphant, +succeeded to it nearly thirty years ago. + +We have briefly traced the history of the Oliphants during the long +period they have been in possession of Gask estate, and while many of +them have been distinguished in different walks of life, none of them +ever occupied the high position which the present Mr Oliphant does for +literary attainments and scholarly accomplishments. He has unfolded +the history of his family with all that fulness of information by which +he is characterised in _The Oliphants in Scotland_ and The _Jacobite +Lairds of Gask_. And I must express my great indebtedness to Mr +Oliphant for the information I have derived from these volumes in +writing this article. But I am persuaded that Mr Oliphant's literary +fame will rest more on another work he produced some years ago, +entitled _The Old and Middle English_, in one volume, and _The New +English_, in two volumes, than on the other two, interesting as they +are. In these volumes Mr Oliphant has traced the development of the +English language during the last 600 years. The most competent +scholars and critics have spoken of these volumes in the highest terms +of commendation, and declared that Mr Oliphant has done, unaided, what +would have required a company of philologists to achieve. Mr Oliphant, +however, is not only devoted to literary pursuits, but he also takes a +practical interest in the welfare of all in the parish; often visits +them in their dwellings, and has a great pleasure in promoting their +social enjoyments. In these respects he is cordially supported by Mrs +Oliphant. And I only express the best wishes of all on the estate that +they may be long spared together to dwell among their own people, and +to maintain the same friendly relations with them in the future as they +have done in the past. + + + + +AT THE HEAD OF STRATHEARN + +By Rev. JOHN MACPHERSON, Comrie + +The head of Strathearn may be said to be the parish of Comrie, because +it comprises some miles of the strath as well as the lake from which +the strath derives its name. The name Comrie is taken from a Gaelic +word _Comhruith_, signifying confluence or running together of streams, +and is aptly applied in this case. This one can easily see by standing +for a few moments upon the Bridge of Dalginross. Looking westward, he +sees the River Ruchill joining the Earn behind the Parish Church; and, +turning to the east, at a distance of a few hundred yards he sees the +Lednock discharging its waters into the same river. Hence the name +Comrie, probably in the first instance applied to the village built at +the junction of the three rivers, was afterwards given to the parish. +The parish of Comrie, as presently constituted, includes what was +formerly called the parishes of Comrie and Tullichettle. Hence the +minister of Comrie owns two glebes--the Tullichettle glebe in the +vicinity of the manse, and the Comrie glebe situated on the south bank +of the Earn. The date at which this union took place is not known, but +in the year 1702 the Commission of Teinds, at the request of the +General Assembly, made additions, _quoad sacra_, from the parishes of +Monzievaird, Strowan, and Muthill, and annexed a portion of the parish +of Comrie lying upon the north side of Loch Earn, also _quoad sacra_ to +the parish of Balquhidder. This arrangement holds good at the present +day. The parish _quoad civilia_ extends from the Bridge of Lednock to +Lochearnhead, a distance of thirteen miles, and is about nine miles in +breadth. It contains some of the grandest mountains of the Grampian +range--Benchonzie, 3048 feet; and Ben Voirlich, 3224 feet above the +level of the sea. The latter, it is said, can be seen from Perth, +Edinburgh, and Ayrshire. + +The beauties of Strathearn have often been pictured by writers of +poetry and prose, but without reaching the head of Strathearn these +beauties can be only partially seen. The drive from Crieff to +Lochearnhead in a summer day is universally regarded as one of the +finest in all Scotland. To within a mile or so of St. Fillans the road +resembles one long avenue stretching along the base of the Grampians. +The scenery is unequalled for its mixture of grandeur and beauty. +There you have the rough, rugged hills of the Highlands combined with +the cultivated plains of the Lowlands, and waving woods, affording an +air of warmth and freshness to the landscape. The great storm of 1893 +has, indeed, laid low many of our finest plantations and marred the +beauty of our scenery. Turleum Wood, which used to wave its shaggy +head so high, is now laid prostrate, and appears to the eye what its +Celtic name implies--_tor lom_, a bare hill. And yet, as far as +appearance and scenery are concerned, there are few places which can as +well afford to part with some of its trees as the head of Strathearn. +Comrie is best known to the public generally by its earthquakes, and as +a quiet summer resort, with sequestered walks over hills and dales and +along the banks of flowing streams. But to the botanist, the +geologist, the antiquarian, and the lover of ancient legend and +historic incident there is, besides all this, something to awaken +interest and engage attention. The number and variety of plants is +very considerable. Slate is the predominant rock, but there are also +limestone, whin, the old red sandstone, and granite. At one time there +were two slate quarries wrought on the Aberuchill Hills, but for the +last twenty years they have been closed. A lime quarry on Lochearnside +in former times supplied the whole district with material for lime, but +carriage, labour, and fuel have become so expensive, that both builders +and farmers find it more economical to get lime ready for use from the +south. There is granite in Glenlednock, and as the railway has now +been extended to the village from Crieff, it is possible that some day +it may be a source of industry to the inhabitants. In several places +in the district of which we write there are traces of what are supposed +to be Druidical remains. One cannot help regretting that the old +Druids should have confined the knowledge of their religion to their +own order, and that they should have left so few traces of their +mystical rites to posterity, except what may be gathered from rude +stones scattered here and there throughout the country. On the plain +of Tullybannocher, and near the east lodge of Dunira, there are several +standing-stones, which antiquarians believe to be the remains of +Druidical circles. On the plain of Dalginross, also, near the junction +of the manse road with the public road, there are three large stones, +supposed to be the remains of a Druidical temple. One of these, about +8 feet in length, stands, or rather leans, at an angle of 45 degrees; +the others are lying flat upon the ground. One of them, a round, flat +boulder, bears upon its surface cup-marks arranged in irregular +concentric circles. Was this the sacrificial stone of an ancient +Druid; or are these boulders relics of the glacial period, and were the +marks alluded to caused by the action of the weather? When we come to +deal with Roman remains we stand upon firmer ground. On the same plain +of Dalginross, and a short distance to the north of these boulders we +have referred to, is the site of the old Roman Camp, Victoria. About +the end of last century the outlines of the fortifications seem to have +been quite distinct, but since that time the plough has obliterated +almost every trace of them. There seem to have been two camps at +Dalginross--a larger and a smaller one, the former capable of holding +10,000 troops. Here, it has been held by some writers, the great +Battle of Mons Grampius was fought between the Caledonians under +Galgacus and the Romans under Agricola. This, however, is not +probable. Seven cities of the ancient world laid claim to Homer's +birth-place. About the same number of places are pointed to as the +scene of the Battle of Mons Grampius. Gordon says it was at +Dalginross, Chalmers says it was the Moor of Ardoch, some say it was in +Fife, others at Urie, in Kincardineshire. Skene, in his _Celtic +Scotland_, places it on or near the Muir of Blair, about the junction +of the River Tay with the Isla. Mr Hill Burton abandons the task of +determining the site as hopeless. If we accept the description given +by Tacitus, in so far as it says the battle was fought "_in conspectu +classis_"--that is, "in sight of the fleet," the place could not have +been Dalginross, and for this one reason, that unless the Earn was very +different in the days of Agricola from what it is in our day, the Roman +fleet could not possibly have sailed to a point within sight of +Dalginross. Judging, however, from some place-names in the +neighbourhood, there is little doubt that Dalginross has been the scene +of some bloody conflict or conflicts during the period of the Roman +occupation of Britain. The name of the farm adjoining the old Roman +Camp, for example, is Blardhearg, which in Celtic means "the red +battle-field." To the west, and beyond the River Ruchill, is +Dalrannaich, in Celtic, _Dailranaich_--"the field of mourning or +lamentation"; and a little to the north is Dalchonzie, in Celtic, +_Dailachaonaidh_--"the field of weeping." To the south of the plain of +Dalginross, and upon the road to Ardoch, there are still traces of the +Roman occupation of Strathearn. At Blairinroar there must have been a +bloody conflict between the Romans and the Caledonians. The very name +of the place implies it, for Blairinroar in Celtic is the "field of +violent onset." There are still to be seen in this neighbourhood huge +slabs of standing-stones, some of them 20 feet in height. Those upon +the level ground probably mark the graves of distinguished Romans or +Caledonians who fell upon the field of battle; but others, which run in +a line extending north and south, were probably landmarks to guide +messengers on their way from Lindum, the camp at Ardoch, to Victoria, +the camp at Dalginross. + +At the west side of the new cemetery, close to the public road, there +is a curious round knoll, which at one time must have been used as a +place for the burial of the dead. The attention of the writer of this +was drawn to it about twenty years ago. There were three large slabs +of stone lying upon the ground, which apparently had been at some +former period placed erect by some loving hands to mark the last +resting-place of some departed friend or hero. By the aid of some of +the Comrie masons the stones were placed in a standing position. +Curious to know what lay beneath the surface, we dug up the earth in +front of the largest slab, and came upon a stone cist placed north and +south, 7 inches long, 1 foot 8 inches broad, and 1 foot 3 inches deep. +The only remains discovered was a thigh-bone, but whether it at one +time formed a part of the leg of a Celt, a Roman, or a Saxon we could +not tell. An old man who then lived in the village of Comrie told us +that in his young days the same mound was dug up, when an urn filled +with ashes was discovered. This, perhaps, would indicate that it +formed a place of burial for Romans rather than for Caledonians. The +spot is called Dunmoid, or "hill of judgment." Besides the parish +churchyard, there are three old burying-grounds in the parish--Leckin, +on Lochearnside; Dundurn, and Tullichettle. From an antiquarian point +of view, the most interesting, perhaps, is Tullichettle. It is +situated in a sequestered spot on a rising ground on the right bank of +the River Ruchill, near the farm-house of Cultabraggan. The name, +which is Celtic, _Tulachchadail_--"hill of sleep"--well describes the +place, for a more solitary spot could hardly be selected for the repose +of the dead. Judging from the inscriptions upon the tomb-stones it has +been for long the burying-place of the Macnivens, the Macgreuthers, the +Maccullochs, and other clans. There is a curious slab over the grave +of the Riddochs. The following description of it, extracted from the +proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries, has been kindly sent by the +Secretary, Dr. Anderson:-- + +"It measures 5 feet 6 inches in length and 18 inches in breadth, +tapering slightly towards the lower end. It bears a sword with +straight guard in the centre of the stone, and the name James Ridoch on +the blade. In the spaces on either side are a number of trade +emblems--a square, an axe, an adze, a mallet and chisel, a millrind, an +axe-pick of the kind used by millers for dressing the mill-stone, the +coulter of a plough, a hammer and anvil (?), and an auger, indicating +probably the various mechanical aptitudes of the deceased. The +connection of the family of Reidheuchs or Ridochs with Strathearn began +in 1502, when King James IV. granted a charter of confirmation of the +lands of Tullychedile, Culturagane, &c., to his familiar servitor and +steward, James Redeheuche, burgess of Stirling. In 1573, these and +other lands acquired by him were erected into the Barony of +Tullichiddil. In 1542, James Reidheuch of Tullichiddil is mentioned as +dead, and it is not till 1610 that another James appears in the line of +the Reidheuchs of Tullichiddil. The probability is that the stone here +figured belongs to the seventeenth century, as it was only then that +the name Reidheuche began to be spelt Ridoche. Of course, it is +impossible to say whether this is the tomb-stone of the James Ridoche +of 1610, or of a successor; but there seems to be nothing against the +idea of the stone being as old at least as the date thus indicated." + + +Tullichettle must have been an old parish. Shortly after the +Reformation, in the year 1572, it was served by John Edmeston, +exhorter, and in 1574 by William Drummond, who had also under his +charge Comrie, Monivaird, Monzie, and Crieff. The ruins of the church +are still to be seen within the wall of the churchyard, but of the old +manse there is no trace left now. We have often been asked the +derivation of the word Ruchill, the name of the river, which, rising at +the head of Glenartney, passes the graveyard of Tullichettle and falls +into the Earn at the village of Comrie. It is compounded of two Gaelic +words--_ruadh_ (red), and _tuill_ (flood). _Ruadhthuill_, therefore, +is the red flood, and any one who has seen the red turgid waters of the +Ruchill in time of flood will see that the name is significant of the +thing itself. The word occurs in a shorter form--Ruel, a river in +Argyllshire, which gives its name to the valley through which it +flows--viz., Glendaruel. In the good old days when our Highland glens +and straths were thickly populated, every hill and dale and crag and +knoll had its name, and every strath and valley had its traditions. +From many of our Highland glens the people are gone, and their +traditions along with them. Sir Walter Scott, however, has rendered +famous at least one of the glens at the head of Strathearn and +preserved a few of its traditions. Who ever read that beautiful poem, +"The Lady of the Lake," but knows something of Glenartney, Benvoirlich, +and Uam-Var. Here the chase, which he sings in the first canto, +begins:-- + + "The stag at eve had drank his fill, + When danced the moon on Monan's rill, + And deep his midnight lair had made + In lone Glenartney's hazel shade. + * * * + Roused from his lair, + The antler'd monarch of the waste + Sprang from his heathery couch in haste. + * * * + With one brave bound the copse he clear'd, + And, stretching forward free and far, + Sought the wild heaths of Uam-Var." + +Uam-Var, which in Gaelic signifies large cave, is a mountain between +Glenartney and Callander, and takes its name from a cave on the south +side of it, said by tradition to have been inhabited by a giant +centuries ago. Glenartney was a Royal forest, and a portion of it is +still fenced off for the same purpose. On an eminence at the head of +the glen stands Glenartney Lodge, belonging to the proprietor, the Earl +of Ancaster. In the past as in the present the strict preservation of +game seems to have been attended with dangers and difficulties. Some +people seem to have an uncontrollable liking for hunting and poaching. +In the sixteenth century Glenartney was the scene of a terrible +tragedy. In the year 1588, John Drummond of Drummond-Ernoch was +forester to King James VI. there. One day, according to one tradition, +he discovered some of the Clan Macgregor trespassing in the Royal +forest. He seized them and cropped off their ears. The Macgregors, +incensed by the punishment inflicted upon their clansmen, vowed +vengeance against Drummond-Ernoch. They made a raid upon the forest, +seized the forester, and cut off his head, which they carried with them +in a corner of one of their plaids. "In the full exultation of +vengeance," says Sir Walter Scott in his introduction to the _Legend of +Montrose_, "they stopped at the house of Ardvoirlich and demanded +refreshments, which the lady, a sister of the murdered Drummond-Ernoch +(her husband being absent), was afraid or unwilling to refuse. She +caused bread and cheese to be placed before them, and gave directions +for more substantial refreshments to be prepared. While she was absent +with this hospitable intention the barbarians placed the head of her +brother on the table, filling the mouth with bread and cheese, and +bidding him eat, for many a merry meal he had eaten in that house. The +poor woman, returning and beholding this dreadful sight, shrieked aloud +and fled into the woods, where, as described in the romance, she roamed +a raving maniac, and for some time secreted herself from all living +society. Some remaining instinctive feeling brought her at length to +steal a glance from a distance at the maidens while they milked the +cows, which being observed, her husband, Ardvoirlich, had her conveyed +back to her home, and detained her there till she gave birth to a +child, of whom she had been pregnant, after which she was observed +gradually to recover her mental faculties." Leaving Ardvoirlich, the +Macgregors proceeded to Balquhidder, and at a meeting of the clan held +in the church--the chief presiding--they placed their hands +successively upon the dead man's head and swore to defend the author of +the deed. At one time there was a large population in this glen. In +1745 the farm of Auchinnar alone had eight tenants. An interesting +document in possession of the relatives of the M'Greuthers of Meiggar +referring to the Rebellion of 1715 shows the power of the laird in +those days, and the resources of the glen as far as fighting men were +concerned. It is as follows:-- + +"William M'Gruther, in Dalclaythick, you are hereby ordered to acquaint +William M'Nivan, in the same town, and Alexander M'Gruther, in +Dalchruwn, to go along with you as officers to command the company of +our men that is to come out of your glen, and all the men are hereby +ordered to obey your command on their highest peril, which you are to +intimate to them, as you will be answerable to us, and this shall be +your warrant. + +"Given at Drummond Castle, the fifteenth day of August, one thousand +seven hundred and thirteen years. + +"See that none of the men of Auchinnear of whatever rank be absent, as +they will be answerable, and all the men in good order. + +"(Signed) DRUMMOND." + + +M'Gruther and his two neighbours obeyed the summons of the laird of +Drummond, and took charge of the company of Highlanders raised in +Glenartney; but the laird could not save them from the consequence of +their obedience. When the Rebellion was quelled they were banished to +America and sold as slaves. The two M'Gruthers managed to get back to +their native country, but were doomed to spend seven long years in +hiding. + +The origin of place-names may not be of so much interest to the reader +as it is to the writer of this article, but we cannot resist the +temptation of recording a suggestion made to us years ago as to the +origin of the word Glenartney, by Mr James Ferguson, the present keeper +of the forest, and the worthy successor of old Drummond-Ernoch. It is +this: _Gleann-àrd-an-fheidh_--"the high glen of the deer." This would +certainly account for the last syllable of the modern name, and would +also accord with the fact of the place being an ancient forest; but we +prefer the derivation _Gleann-ardan_--"the glen of heights," and we +think the last syllable has been added merely to suit the imperfection +of the Saxon's vocal organs. + +The mansion-houses of the head of Strathearn and their occupants are of +some historical interest, but, as our space is limited, our reference +to them must be brief, and confined to a few of the oldest. On the +margin of Loch Earn stands Ardvoirlich House. The present occupant of +the estate is Colonel John Stewart, who spent the first part of his +life in India, and now resides upon the estate. With the exception of +the Drummonds, who trace their ancestry back to Maurice, the Hungarian, +who lived about the time of the Norman Conquest, the Stewarts of +Ardvoirlich are the oldest family in the district. They lay claim not +only to a long ancestral line, but also to Royal blood, through a son +of Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Regent of Scotland, and son of Robert II. +Among the antique curiosities of this family, it is said, there is a +large gem called _clach dhearg_--red stone, seemingly white rock +crystal, bound with four silver bands, which used to be regarded as a +talisman, giving to water into which it is dipped virtue for the cure +of all diseases of cattle. In recent times the Stewarts have been a +family of soldiers who served in India. Their burying-place is within +the old Chapel of Dundurn, but the monuments erected to the memory of +members of the family recently deceased are in the Parish Church of +Comrie. They are all handsome, and a great ornament to the interior of +the Parish Church; but one of them is worthy of special notice on +account of its artistic beauty. It is that erected by the +Governor-General of India and other dignitaries and friends to +commemorate the death of William Stewart, who, along with his wife and +infant son, was murdered in the Indian Mutiny of 1857. It is a +cenotaph of pure Carrara marble, with the figure of a Sepoy soldier +with arms reversed on the one side, and a Hindoo in a kneeling posture +on the other. + +Dunira House is the seat of the Dundases. The present proprietor is +Sir Sidney James Dundas, the third baronet of Beechwood and Dunira, who +succeeded his father, Sir David Dundas, Bart., in 1877. What is the +word Dunira derived from? Is it like Dundurn, "the hill or fort upon +the Earn"? or is it _Dun aoraidh_, "the hill of worship"? It is +difficult to say; Gaelic words have been so much corrupted to suit the +tongues of the Saxon. There is little doubt, however, that in ancient +times the locality was intimately associated with divine worship. Not +far from the east lodge there are to be seen large standing-stones, +supposed, as already said, to be the remains of an old Druidical +circle. On the hillside, above Dunira House, there is a place called +Drumnakil, which signifies the "ridge of the chapel"; and farther to +the north-east, near the hill of Dunmore, is Ballochintaggart, "the gap +of the priest." At Drumnakil there is an old burying-ground, the +grave-stones scarcely discernible among the rank grass; but all trace +of the chapel, or monks' cell, if ever there was one, has disappeared. +Dunira was once the property of Henry Dundas, Viscount Melville and +Baron Dunira. He was son of Robert Dundas of Arniston, Lord President +of the Court of Session. He was called to the bar in 1763, and elected +member of Parliament for the County of Edinburgh in 1774, and after +holding several important offices under the Crown, he retired with Pitt +in 1801, and the following year he was raised to the Peerage. After +his death his Perthshire friends paid a tribute to his memory and worth +by erecting a monument on Dunmore Hill, at Comrie. It is an obelisk, +72 feet high, built in 1812 of Innergeldie granite. A better site +could not have been chosen. From the top of Dunmore Hill there is a +magnificent view of varied landscape. To the west you have a peep at +Loch Earn, the Aberuchill Hills, and the old white-washed Castle +nestling among its trees; to the south you have the village of Comrie +and the strath, with the Earn and the Ruchill winding their way through +the plain; to the east, Sir David Baird's Monument, the Knock of +Crieff, Turleum, the Ochils, and one of the Lomonds of Fife; looking to +the north, we see Glenlednock stretching far towards Loch Tay, with +Spout Rollo at its head, and guarded on each side by the lofty peaks of +the Grampians. This, like so many others of our Highland glens, has +suffered much through depopulation during this century. An old +Glenlednock farmer still living in the parish informs us that in his +recollection there were thirty-six tenants with their cottars, where +there are now five and a few shepherds. One cannot help admiring the +industry, economy, and thrift of these old Highland farmers, who in +such numbers could live and thrive and pay higher rents to the landlord +than the few who are now in possession of the land. + +Aberuchill Castle was for nearly three centuries the seat of the +Campbells of Aberuchill and Kilbryde. It was originally built in 1602, +but has since been modernised and enlarged. The Crown granted a +charter of the lands of Aberuchill in 1596 to Colin Campbell, second +son of Sir Colin Campbell of Lawers. His son James was made a baronet +of Nova Scotia by Charles I. in 1627. He fell fighting for Charles II. +at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Sir Colin, only son of Sir James, +succeeded him. He was the most distinguished of the family. Bred to +the law, he rose to the position of Lord of Session with the title of +Lord Aberuchill. Sir Colin was a Whig and a Presbyterian when the most +of the gentry of Strathearn were either Episcopalians or Popish +Jacobites. His name is associated with the massacre of Glencoe, +inasmuch as he was a member of the Council that refused the certificate +of the Sheriff-Depute of Argyle that M'Donald of Glencoe had taken the +oath of allegiance to King William, unless they got a warrant to +receive it from the King. From 1693 to 1702 he represented the County +of Perth in the Scottish Parliament, and died in 1704. From the +Campbells, the estate passed into the hands of the Drummonds. It is +now the property of Captain Robert Dewhurst, son of George C. Dewhurst, +Esq., lately deceased. + +It would be unpardonable to write anything about Comrie without making +allusion to the earthquakes which have made it famous. In the +Statistical Account of Scotland, published in the year 1794, the Rev. +Mr M'Diarmid, minister of the parish, gives an account of the first +recorded earthquake in the district. During the autumn of 1789 loud +noises, unaccompanied by any concussion, were heard by the inhabitants +of Glenlednock; but on the 5th of November of that year they were +alarmed by a loud rumbling noise, accompanied with a severe shock of +earthquake, which was felt over a tract of country of more than twenty +miles in extent. The Rev. Mr Mackenzie, successor to Mr M'Diarmid, +writing in 1838, in the last Statistical Account, says that "at and +after the time of the last Statistical Account the earthquakes were so +frequent and violent, and accompanied with such noises, as to occasion +great alarm, especially one which occurred on a Sabbath while the +congregation was assembled." The year 1839, however, was the time of +the great earthquakes. Writing in 1842 in the last Statistical +Account, the Rev. John Ferguson, minister of Monzievaird, says:--"At +this time they began to be frequently felt, nearly 20 shocks being +occasionally experienced in 24 hours. The most violent one happened +about ten o'clock on the evening of 23d October, 1839. The shock +seemed to pass along through the parish of Monzievaird from north-west +to south-east. For a second or two every house for miles around the +village of Comrie was shaken from top to bottom; and while the motion +was passing away to the eastward it was accompanied by a tremendous +noise like the roar of 100 pieces of ordnance discharged at once and +gradually dying away in the distance. This earthquake was partially +felt throughout a great part of Scotland, as far as Inverness, Dunbar, +Berwick, and the banks of Loch Awe. In this neighbourhood it was very +alarming. Several individuals fainted, and most of the inhabitants of +the village of Comrie spent the whole night in the streets, or in the +churches, which were very properly opened for prayer. Many stone dykes +were thrown down, walls of houses rent, and chimney-stalks shattered, +the stones being frequently shifted from their places, but no serious +damage was sustained. The shocks have again diminished both in +frequency and violence since the autumn of 1839." Another severe shock +occurred in November, 1846, but from that date they have decreased both +in number and intensity. The cause of these subterranean commotions is +in this as in similar cases a matter of conjecture, but there is good +cause for thankfulness that they have hitherto been attended with no +serious damage to life or property. + +The Session records of some parishes in Scotland are of some historical +value, but this is not so with those of Comrie. Beyond the perpetual +reiteration of cases of discipline and doles to the poor, there is +little to be found in them to throw light upon the Christian life and +work of the parish. So meagrely kept were these records that until the +year 1829 the Christian name and surname of the Moderator and Clerk +never appear in the minutes--not even the Secession of 1843 is +recorded, though the minister left the church with a great majority of +the congregation to worship upon Tomachessock. The only exception to +what we have just stated, perhaps, is a minute of Kirk-Session dated +17th November, 1772, recording the honour due to Patrick Campbell, Esq. +of Monzie, then deceased, and the Rev. Robert Menzies, minister of the +parish, for the active and benevolent part they took in the building of +the Dalginross Bridge over the Earn. The bridge was built in 1756 at a +cost of £230. + +The Parish Church was erected in 1805, and holds 1044 sitters. The +manse was built in 1784, and an addition was made to it in 1822. A new +church was built in St. Fillans in connection with the Church of +Scotland in 1878, and in March, 1895, it was endowed and erected into a +parish _quoad sacra_ under the old name of Dundurn. It is curious to +note how the land has been changing hands during the last 180 years. +In 1715, the heritors were the Earl of Perth, Duke of Athole, the +proprietors of Aberuchill, Lawers, Monzie, Cultabraggan, Ardvoirlich, +Comrie, Strowan, Drummond-Ernoch, and Balmacuin. At present they are +the Earl of Ancaster, Marquis of Breadalbane, and the proprietors of +Ardvoirlich, Dunira, Aberuchill, Strowan, Lawers, Dalchonzie, and +Drumearn. + + + + +ON THE BANKS OF THE DEVON + +By Rev. E. B. SPEIRS, B.D., Glendevon + +Seeing that "St. Serf's Bridge" still spans the Devon at one part +within the parish of Glendevon, and that the good Saint did not himself +build the bridge, but, following a common practice, baptised and made +Christian what was a Pagan structure, reared in this instance by the +Imperial legionaries, it might be permissible for the local historian +to go back at least to the times of the Roman occupation. After +describing the camp and the Roman road which still exist in the mind's +eye of the antiquaries, he might then go on to tell of holy St. +Servan's feats in the way of detecting sheep-stealers by making them, +like Speed under the influence of Proteus' reasoning, cry "Baa," or +relate some such pretty human story as that of how he turned water into +wine for the sake of a sick monk, or unfold the thrilling tale of how +he fought the Dovan dragon, as Wyntoun sings, or at least says:-- + + "In Dovyn of devotyoune + And prayere, he slew a fell Dragoune, + Quhare he was slayne, that place wes ay + The Dragownys Den cald to this day."[1] + +The more exact methods of writing history now in vogue, however, almost +compel the chronicler to begin with the first certain mention of +Glendevon in accredited records, and that belongs to the year 1521. On +the eleventh of July of that year an interesting ceremony was gone +through down at Cambuskenneth, on the banks of the Forth. Abbot Mylne, +a man both of culture and character, who to a genuine love of letters +added a love of art and architecture, and who was ultimately the first +President of the Court of Session, had re-built the great altar, the +chapter-house, and part of the cloister of his Abbey, and had laid out +two new cemeteries. In order to signalise these notable additions and +restorations he invited the Bishop of Dunblane to conduct a +consecration and dedication service. The Bishop was directly assisted +in this solemn function by three of his principal clergy--his +archdeacon, George Newton; John Chesholme, prebendary of Kippane; and +"Jacobus Wilson, prebandarius de Glendowane." John Tulydaf, warder of +the Minorites of "Striueling" (Stirling), preached on the efficacy of +dedication after the celebration of the Mass, and amongst those present +were the "noble and powerful" Lord John Erskin, Jacobus Haldene of +Glenegges (Gleneagles), Knight, and various others of the local clergy, +nobility, and gentry, together with a large concourse of people from +the surrounding district. The official account of what took place on +this high day when Glendowane, Glendovan, Glenduen, or Glendevon, first +emerges into the light of history, is duly signed by Jacobus Blakwood, +presbyter of the Diocese of Dunblane, public notary by apostolic +authority, who was on the spot and saw everything properly done.[2] The +name of Prebendary Wilson occurs in several documents both before and +after this, all of which have reference to matters connected either +with Cambuskenneth or Dunblane. He gets prominent mention in a paper +dated from Cambuskenneth, June, 1530, in which he is styled "Canonicus +Dunblanensis," heading a list of "venerable and discreet" gentlemen, +including Alanus Balward, vicar of Kalender, and Andreas Sym, vicar of +Cumry, but we cannot trace him further down than March of the following +year. It is clear from this that Glendevon was attached to the "Kirk +of Dunblane," and that the Parish Church was served from there, not, it +is to be hoped, in the slovenly fashion characteristic of these times, +when the stipend was too often fought for by different teind hunters in +the shape of the bishop of the diocese and the abbot of some +neighbouring monastery, a state of things to which Prebendary Wilson +himself bears witness. There is something almost pathetic in the +thought that less than forty years after that dedication service in +which the Prebendary of Glendevon took part, these additions were to be +pulled to pieces by the savage mob which wrecked, amongst other +religious houses, the stately monastery on the Links of the Forth; and +it is just possible that the great destroyer--spiritually at least--of +what Canon Wilson helped to build up was in his parish in 1556. At any +rate a spot is still pointed out on the glebe where, according to +tradition, John Knox preached. We know from his own statement[3] that +he spent some time in the early part of the summer of that year at +Castle Campbell--which is only some four or five miles distant--"whare +he taught certane dayis"; so it is at least not utterly improbable that +he may have come through Glenquey past the Maiden's Well, and visited a +possible congregation in Glendovan, exhorting them to "prayaris, to +reading of the Scriptures, and mutuall conference unto such tyme as God +should give unto them grettar libertie."[4] + +The second direct mention of Glendevon in public records is of a +somewhat unsavoury order, and affords a rather curious illustration of +the beliefs of the people of Scotland in the seventeenth century. John +Brughe, one of the most notorious necromancers and wizards of his day, +was tried at Edinburgh on November 24th, 1643, for practising sorcery +and other unholy arts, and amongst the charges brought against him was +that he had met Satan thrice "in the kirkyeard of Glendovan at quhilkis +tymes ther was taine up thrie severall dead corps, ane of thame being +of ane servand man named Johne Chrystiesone; the uther corps, tane up +at the Kirk of Mukhart, the flesch of the quhilk corps was put above +the byre and stable-dure headis" of certain individuals in order to +destroy their cattle.[5] John's object in collecting Glendovan "muild" +was, according to this indictment, not a beneficent one; but it is to +be remembered to his credit that he used the powdered bones of the dead +and other materials, notably "ane inchantit stane of the bignes of a +dow egg,"[6] for the healing of man and beast, and we are told that for +curing a number of oxen afflicted with the murrain by administering a +pint of one of his patent medicines, accompanied with the invocation, +"God put thame in their awin place," repeated thrice, he got "ellevin +od schillings, with twa peckis of meill and thrie tailyeis of beiff." +In those days, when not only human nature but Nature herself lay under +the black shadow of one of the foulest of superstitions, the fair banks +of the Devon were much frequented by the devil, who had whole "covins" +of witches and wizards in his service, so that it is not surprising to +hear that John was frequently in his company. "That John Brughe had +been with the devil at the Rumbling Brigs and elsewhere was affirmed by +Katherine Mitchell to be of veritie, at the tyme of hir criminall +tryell at Culrose, and immediately befoir hir executione, the said John +Brughe being confronted with hir at the tyme."[7] We can claim this +renowned empiric not only for the Glendevon district, but in a sense +for the Presbytery, since it was alleged against him that he had got +his uncanny knowledge "from a wedow woman, named Neane Nikclerith, of +threescoir years of age, quha wis sister dochter to Nik Neveding, that +notorious infamous witche in Monzie, quha for her sorcerie and +witchecraft was brunt fourscoir of yeir since or thereby." Spite of +all he had done for the "bestiall," and all the testimonials he had +from patients whom he had cured of their "seiknessis" by enchanted +drinks, Glendovan and Mukhart mould, and sympathetic conjuring of +"sarkis, coller bodies, beltis, and utheris pertaining als weill to men +as to wemen," John was found guilty and condemned to be strangled and +burned. These were the real Dark Ages, when intimations were +frequently made from the Glendevon and other pulpits that the minister +and session would be glad to receive information against suspected +witches, and when the common pricker who pricked poor witches "with +lang preins of thrie inches" to discover the marks of Satan, was +specially busy in the vale of Devon, where in a record year no less +than sixteen of the local "covin" were burned. In the Roll of +Fugitives from kirk discipline drawn up by the Synod of Perth and +Stirling in 1649, Glendevon was represented by a warlock, "Mart. +Kennard, suspect of witchcraft," but of his fate we know nothing. In +this connection it may be remarked that though the "Kirkyeard of +Glendovan," immortalised by John Brughe's ghoulish visit, contains no +epitaphs, humorous or otherwise, it possesses a "Plague Stone," a large +rough slab, under which lie those who died of what is vaguely called +the Plague (1645?), and the lifting of which was duly guarded against +by a solemn curse pronounced over it on whoever would dare to remove +it, for two hundred years ago a curse could break bones or "ryve the +saull out of ye." + +Two years after John Brughe suffered at Edinburgh, the quiet of the +usually peaceful valley of the Devon was broken by the clatter of +cavalry and the skirling of the pipes, as Montrose, having in his usual +brilliant fashion outwitted Baillie, marched through, burning and +plundering as he passed, leaving Muckhart, Dollar, and, above all, +Castle Campbell, the lowland hold of the detested Argyles, heaps of +blackened ruins, a march which was to end in the bloody Battle of +Kilsyth, that "braw day" when, as the Highlander with grim humour +remarked, "at every stroke I gave with my broadsword I cut an ell o' +tamn'd Covenanting breeks." When Chambers says[8] that "the +Covenanting army marched close upon the track of Montrose _down +Glendevon_, at the distance of about a day's march behind," he, of +course, means down the Devon valley, and not down Glendevon proper, +since it is pretty certain that Montrose, in making his descent from +the north, entered the low country not by Gleneagles, but by the +south-east end of the Ochils. Glendevon Castle--originally built, it +is supposed, by the Crawfords[9] in the sixteenth century--thus escaped +the fate which befel Castle Campbell[10] and Menstrie House, and other +places in the Devon and Ochil district at this time, when the fierce +strife was not merely between cavaliers and Covenanters, but quite as +much, and specially during the Devon valley march, between the Ogilvies +and Macleans on the one hand, and the Campbells and their friends on +the other. It is, however, impossible, to say whether the Keep, which +has been in the possession of the Rutherford family since 1766, was +actually at this time in the hands of the Crawfords, and, indeed, the +traditions regarding its ownership are so vague--one of them assigning +it to the Douglases--that, in the absence of authentic records, it is +impossible to make any really satisfactory statement regarding its +origin and history. + +{195} + +Some years later the parish of Glendevon came prominently before the +public in connection with the deposition and excommunication of its +doughty true-blue Presbyterian minister, the Rev. William Spence, M.A., +though it was not till he had been removed from his living that the +really romantic part of his career began. He had graduated at St. +Andrews in 1654, and after some years of schoolmastering[11] and +probationership he was, in 1664, duly admitted on the new Black +Prelatic conditions to the parish of Glendevon. Under the mild rule of +Bishops Leighton and Ramsay he lived quietly there for fourteen years. +His name occasionally appears on the Synod and Presbytery Committees +during this period, and he seems to have done his best to get the +brethren stirred up to "better the provision of Glendovan." The Bishop +and Synod did actually order a "perambulation" to be made to see if +anything could be annexed from the adjacent parishes, especially +"Denying and Fossoquhy," so that, as Mr Spence put it, "ane +augmentation proportionablie might {196} be made to him out of the +vacant teindes of the said paroches in respect of the poornes and +meannes of his stipend for the present."[12] The perambulation, beyond +affording a pleasant outing to the visitors in the long May days, does +not seem to have had any practical result. Mr Spence had, however, +been thinking of higher things than teinds and augmentation, and had +been looking far beyond the bounds of his own parish, and, spite of the +extreme gentleness of the somewhat mongrel Prelatic-Presbyterian rule +under which he was, and the general atmosphere of conformity which he +breathed, he began to have serious searchings of heart about the state +of the "poor afflicted" Church. Accordingly, towards the end of 1678 +he took the bold step of presenting a paper[13] to the Presbytery of +Auchterarder drawing the attention of the Court to the sundry gross +corruptions under which the Church was suffering and to the horrid +defection from its first purity, obvious to {197} every man who did not +wilfully shut his eyes. The evils against which he asked the Court to +testify were doctrinal, liturgical, disciplinary, moral, and what may +be called ecclesiastical. He includes in the sweep of his very +impartial denunciation not only the pernicious tenets of Pelagianism, +Arminianism, Latitudinarianism, and Popish errors, but "the dotage of +Quakers and other enthusiasts," human inventions in worship, and the +private essays made to introduce or impose an unwarrantable liturgie of +unsound and useless form, the loose spirit of atheism, profaneness, and +ungodliness reigning in all corners of the kingdom, and the dreadful +differences that prevailed, and calls for a return to sound doctrine, +the practice of "the gude Kirk primitif," the exercise of a strict +discipline, and the ways of peace. At the special meeting of +Presbytery called to consider his paper he asked to have it back, +apparently because he now thought its terms were not strong enough, and +meanwhile a committee was appointed not to deal but to confer with him +"until he should get full satisfaction of everything that was his +scruple." He refused, however, to meet the Committee or attend the +Presbytery, on the ground that he had {198} not "clearness" as to the +authority and constitution of a semi-prelatic Court. The Bishop and +Presbytery thereupon suspended him, and he was summoned before the +Synod in April, 1679, but did not attend, on account of "ane aguish +distemper which had seized on him." A Synodal Committee with full +powers was then appointed, before which he compeared in May, but spite +of earnest entreaties of the Bishop he would withdraw nothing, and even +added that he did not think the present Church government agreeable to +Scriptural rules--a view shared by some of the Episcopalian bishops +themselves. The Bishop and Committee recorded their opinion that the +paper was contrived and adhered to for advancing some private interest +against the unity and peace of the Church, and rather unfairly +insinuated that Mr Spence was the more hardened therein by the late +execrable murder of the Bishop of St. Andrews and the expectation of a +Revolution to follow thereupon, and unanimously resolved that this +unruly and unreasonable member be deposed. Mr Spence was quite +prepared for this, and, "with some signs of choler in his countenance," +handed a second paper to the Bishop, which turned out to {199} be a +protest against the sentence of the "pretended" Bishop and Synod of +Dunblane passed on him. He was asked to retire for a little till they +should consult, but he scornfully replied that he did not own their +jurisdiction, and was making for the church-door when the Bishop +ordered the beadle to lay hold of him, and carry him to his house, and +desire the Baillie to keep him safely until he should find caution to +answer before a competent judicatory. This was Mr Spence's first taste +of imprisonment, of which he was to have a very large supply, of very +different quality, too, later on. The good Bishop on his own +responsibility sent three of the brethren that night to reason with +him, but Mr Spence would not yield, and was let out on bail. He +appeared at the next meeting of Synod, but, spite of the threat of +excommunication, stuck to his guns and argued against his treatment on +technical grounds, and on the following day, when, after being duly +cited, he neither compeared nor pled "ane aguish distemper," the Bishop +and Synod charged the Presbytery of Auchterarder to proceed with the +excommunication, which after some bungling they did, and finally the +superior Court ordered the {200} intimation of the excommunication to +be read from every pulpit in the Diocese on the first Sabbath of +January, 1681, but no attempt was made to detain the unruly member, and +the door of grace was left open to the very last, quite remarkable +leniency when it is remembered that 1680 was the year of the Sanquhar +Declaration and Airds Moss, and that the peroration of Mr Spence's +protest would have done credit to Cuddy Headrigg's mother. "For these +reasons specially, and many others I need not mention now, I, the said +William Spence, protest against the sentence aforesaid, and disown the +same, seeing the said inflicters have hereby proclaimed themselves to +be the patrones and abettors of all the said corruptions, supplanters +of the Gospel faction for Anti-christ, promoters of the powers of +darkness, enemies to the kingdom of Jesus Christ, and such from whom +all good Christians ought to separate because of their maintaining and +defending soul-murdering heresies, and in persecuting with the utmost +violence and rigour any man who darr open his mouth for the truth of +Christ. (_Sic Subscribitur_), Mr William Spence."[14] + +{201} + +Mr Spence as yet was only an ecclesiastical rebel, and instead of going +over to the extreme Covenanters, made his way to Holland, where he +joined the colony of Scotch refugees. Ultimately he attached himself +to the Earl of Argyle as a kind of secretary, and conducted part of the +correspondence between the Earl and the English plotters. He was in +London in 1683, apparently on the Earl's business, when he was arrested +and imprisoned for some months, but as he could not be efficiently +examined in England, where torture was not legal, he was finally sent +down to Scotland along with Carstares and other suspects in His +Majesty's "Kitchin Yaucht," which did not go at a royal pace, for the +journey to Leith took thirteen days. They arrived late at night on +November 14th, having left London on the 1st, and were taken straight +to the Tolbooth.[15] A week after, orders came from London that Mr +Spence should be put to the torture, but for some reason or other he +was left alone till the April of the following year, being evidently in +irons all the time, his close connection with Argyle rendering his +imprisonment {202} extra rigorous.[16] He was taken out of irons on +the 25th of that month, but it was not till the 24th of July that he +was ordered to appear before the Council and required to take an oath +to answer all the questions put to him. He refused and protested, and +was tortured in the boot, but, spite of the awful agony, remained +"obstinate and disingenuous," whereupon the Privy Council "resolved to +use all methods necessary to bring the said Mr William Spence to a true +and ingenuous confession, and for expiscating the truth in so important +a matter, do recommend to General Dalziel forthwith to call for the +said Mr William Spence from the Magistrates of Edinburgh, and to cause +such of His Majesty's forces, officers, and soldiers, as shall be found +most trusty, to watch the said Mr William Spence by turns, and not to +suffer him to sleep by night or by day, and for that end to use all +effectual means for keeping him awake."[17] The "effectual means" were +"pricking,"[18] and the intention was to induce raving, so that in his +{203} delirium the brave prisoner might perhaps reveal his secrets. +The torture was continued for eight or nine nights, but Mr Spence did +not rave, and tired his tormentors out. It was next resolved to try +the "thumbkins" on him, and, indeed, Spence seems to have been one of +the first regular prisoners to suffer this new Muscovy torture,[19] for +the Act of Council authorising the use of "the new invention and engine +called the thumbkins" was passed only a fortnight before; but the +sanguine expectations of the Lords were not fulfilled in the present +case, for though he sank under the agonising torment, he would not +yield. Ten days later he was again threatened with the boot, and +having meanwhile understood from his friends that the Government +practically knew already all he could tell them, he promised to make a +free and ingenuous confession on certain conditions--namely, that no +new questions should be put to him, that he should not be obliged to be +a witness against any person, and that he himself should be pardoned. +Unfortunately, by a sheer accident in disclosing the meaning of some of +the ciphers used in Argyle's correspondence, he put the Council {204} +on the track of the cipher[20] which expressed the name of his +fellow-prisoner, the famous Carstares, who, however, does not in any +way blame Mr Spence for what happened. He was sent back to prison, +strict orders being given that he was not to be permitted to see +Carstares, and when the Council adjourned for the holidays on September +13th, he was removed to Dumbarton Castle, and granted liberty within +the walls. Whether he escaped, or was allowed to go out of the +country, we cannot tell, but it is clear at any rate that he rejoined +his old master in Holland, and the next we hear of him is that he was +one of those who accompanied Argyle when he made his disastrous descent +on Scotland in the spring of 1685. When the little fleet arrived off +Kirkwall Mr Spence must needs go ashore to visit his uncle who lived +there, along with one of the Earl's scouts. "Both," says Wodrow,[21] +"were discovered and catched by the old bishop there. The Earl was +peremptorily resolved to recover the two gentlemen, and ordered Sir +Patrick Hume with a party of Fusileers to attack the town"; but the +captains were obdurate {205} and nervous, and gave the Earl time only +to seize seven islanders and a vessel "lying ther with meall and +money," when the ships sailed away, leaving the unfortunate secretary +to his fate.[22] He was sent down to Edinburgh,[23] indicted for +treason, and remitted in due form to the Assizes, tried, and found +guilty, and we seem at last to be near his end when we read that the +Lords ordained Mr William Spence to be taken to the Cross of Edinburgh +on Wednesday next, July 22nd, and there to be hanged. Before that day +arrived, however, he got a reprieve, and on August 17th he was allowed +to remove to a chamber in Edinburgh because of sickness--quite +unaccountable leniency at a time when the authorities did not scruple +to hang dying men in their night-shirts. The Magistrates were made +responsible for his safe keeping, and he undertook to re-enter the +prison on the first of September. His reprieve was now continued till +{206} November 1st, and the last we hear of him was that in a letter +from the King, dated October 14th, orders were given that he was to be +kept a close prisoner. His master had been executed on June 30th, and +had testified before his death that Mr William Spence had been to him a +faithful friend and servant. It is impossible to say what became of +him between this time and the Revolution, and unless he succeeded in +escaping, it is highly probable that he remained in prison till the +general clearance made by the alarmed authorities on the eve of that +event. All we know for certain is that the General Assembly of 1690, +amongst other items of business, declared his deposition null and void, +and restored him to his old parish, the minister, Alexander Meldrum, +having been deposed shortly before for not reading the Proclamation of +the Estates, and not praying for their Majesties William and Mary. He +remained in it only a few months, and in the autumn of 1691 he was +translated to Fossoway, where he ended his days in peace in 1715,[24] +at the age of 80, a clear proof {207} that he was a man of iron +constitution as well as of iron will and iron convictions. + +We have to go forward something like a hundred years before the parish +or its fair stream comes again into notice, though probably in the +interval occurred the summary act of justice commemorated by the +Glendevon "Gallows Knowe," on which some of the last Highland reivers +were hung, and also the tragic event at "Paton's Fauld," a spot a short +distance from the old drove road opposite the "Court Knowe," where two +local gipsy families effectively settled their quarrel by practically +annihilating each other.[25] It was in August, 1787, that Burns first +made acquaintance with the Devon, which he has celebrated in three of +his poems, though it is evident that both on his flying visit to +Harvieston and during the longer stay he made in October of the same +year he was more pleased with the human flowers that bloomed on its +banks than with the awesome grandeur of the Rumbling Brig, and that +Peggy Chalmers and Charlotte Hamilton were more intimately associated +with his fond memories of the Devon valley than Caudron Linn and the +Deil's Mill. Although the ladies at Harvieston were somewhat +disappointed[26] that the more prominent local glories did not inspire +the poet to an outburst, it is clear that the subtle softness of the +Devon scenery made a deep impression on Burns, if the more aggressive +beauty of its waterfalls and gorges left him cold. You feel this in +all he has written about it, and it is significant that in one of his +last songs, composed when he was down in body, mind, and estate, his +thoughts went back to the "crystal Devon, winding Devon," whose music +seems to have got into his verse, and to the happy days he had spent on +its "romantic banks" and amidst its "wild sequestered shades." It may +be noted here that the "Holy Fair" was continued in Glendevon long +after Burns' famous attack, and that down to 1835 the minister of the +parish received an annual grant of five, and sometimes ten shillings, +for grass destroyed at the Sacrament; while a handy parishioner also +drew five shillings per annum for putting up the Communion tent on the +glebe, and a little extra now and then for making a road to it.[27] It +is impossible to say if Burns when at Harvieston was ever actually in +Glendevon, but about thirty years later the home of the Taits, which +the poet found so pleasant, is brought into close connection with the +parish owing to an incident which had its own share in giving to the +Church of England one of its wisest, if not one of its greatest, +primates. It was in Glendevon House that young Archibald Campbell +Tait, according to his own statement, which was found in his desk after +his death, written on a sheet of foolscap, had an experience which he +never forgot. His words are--"I had ridden over with my brother +Crawfurd from Harvieston to Glendevon to visit old Miss Rutherford, and +stayed the night in her house. I distinctly remember in the middle of +the night awaking with a deep impression on my mind of the reality and +nearness of the world unseen, _such as through God's mercy has never +left me_."[28] And with this fragment of spiritual history our local +record comes to a close. If the parish of Glendevon, nestling, like +Burns' Peggy, "where braving angry winter's storm the lofty Ochils +rise," and its clear winding river, occupy but a lowly place in +Scottish story, they have something better even than archaeological +treasures and stirring memories--the abiding presence of that spirit of +beauty, which is above all change, and which ever haunts + + "The green valleys + Where Devon, sweet Devon, meandering flows." + + + +[1] Much of the legendary history of the Devon is given in the +extraordinary poem "Glenochel," by Mr James Kennedy. + +[2] See _Registrum Monasterii S. Marie De Cambuskenneth_, A.D. +1147-1535. Edinburgi: 1872; p. 122. + +[3] _History of the Reformation_, Vol. I., p. 233. + +[4] The parish was served by readers from 1568 to 1586, when the reader +Symon Pawtoun was presented to the living, and, curiously enough, his +successor, A. Marschell, after being minister for a year, was forced by +the Presbytery to accept the lower position. + +[5] See _The Darker Superstitions of Scotland_. By John Graham +Dalyell. Glasgow: 1835; p. 579. + +[6] Mr Wood Martin in his learned work, _Pagan Ireland_ (London: 1895); +describes similar usages still prevailing in Ireland. + +[7] _Dalyell_, p. 671. + +[8] _History of the Rebellions in Scotland_. By Robert Chambers. Vol. +II., p. 87. + +[9] _Statistical Account of 1794_, p. 234. + +[10] _Memoirs of the Marquis of Montrose_. By M. Napier. Vol. II., p. +537. + +[11] He was schoolmaster at Abernethy, and subsequently married the +daughter of the parish minister. She died in 1708 at the age of 80. + +[12] See _Register of the Diocesan Synod of Dunblane_. Edited by John +Wilson, D.D. Edinburgh: 1877; page 91. + +Before the passing of the Act of 1810 for augmenting parochial stipends +in Scotland, the stipend was £21 17s 11d, the smallest in Scotland. 50 +Geo. III., cap. 84. + +[13] _Diocesan Register_, p. 251. + +[14] _Diocesan Register_, p. 150. + +[15] _Historical Selections_. _From the MSS. of Sir John Lauder of +Fountainhall_. Vol. I., p. 138. + +[16] Wodrow's _History of The Sufferings of The Church of Scotland_. +II., p. 386. + +[17] Wodrow II., p. 386. + +[18] Graham Dunlop MSS., quoted in Story's _Carstares_, p. 80. + +[19] See Fountainhall, p. 138. + +[20] Story's _Carstares_, p. 82. + +[21] History, II., p. 531. + +[22] Fountainhall, p. 164. + +[23] That his spirit was in no way cowed is obvious from the report of +what he said and did when he was brought before the Privy Council and +informed that "Argile was tane," and urged to tell everything. "He +laugh't at them, and with a very obstinate and unbelieving carriage +said--'If ye have the principall, what neids ye ask these questions at +me.'"--Fountainhall, p. 187. + +[24] _Fasti Ecclesia Scoticanae_. By Hew Scott, D.D. Vol. II., pp. +766-768. + +[25] The ecclesiastical quarrel which began in 1765 when Mr Patrick +Crichton was presented to the living, went on for several years, and +only ended when the presentee, seeing that a peaceable settlement was +impossible, retired. + +[26] Chambers' _Life of Burns_, II., 144. + +[27] Glendevon Session Records. + +[28] _Life of Archibald Campbell Tait_. By R. T. Davidson, D.D., and +W. Bentham, D.D. 2 Vols. London: 1891. + + + + +BY THE WELL OF ST. FILLAN + +By Rev. THOMAS ARMSTRONG, Dundurn + + "Harp of the North! that mouldering long hast hung + On the witch-elm that shades Saint Fillan's spring." + --_Lady of the Lake_. + + +Any one who has visited the scene hallowed in tradition as the sojourn +of St. Fillan, can understand how the genius of Scott should have +traced to Fillan's spring that draught of inspiration which conceived +such a splendid poem as the "Lady of the Lake"; for it is here that the +scenery of Upper Strathearn reaches its climax of beauty and grandeur. + +Take St. Fillan's Hill as the point of vantage, and the view is most +entrancing. Looking towards Comrie and Crieff, we have at our feet the +richest and most beautifully wooded part of Strathearn--the valley +interspersed in the most picturesque fashion, with knolls richly clad +with larch, oak, or hazel; while here and there the gleam of the River +Earn betrays her course, where she has emerged from sombre wood, or +deep and rocky gorge. In spring-time the eye is delighted and +refreshed with the varieties of green--from the deep and sombre shade +of the Scotch pine and the almost yellow and brown of the young oak to +the exquisite freshness and tender beauty of the larch. In autumn it +is one blaze of colour. At our feet an avenue of beeches glowing red; +everywhere masses of oak of russet brown--the rich and varied tints of +the bracken contributing their share to the similitude of a glorious +sunset; and the whole picture is rendered complete to the eye by being +set in that massive rocky framework, known as the Aberuchill range, +whose stern and rugged sides add to the feeling of the picturesque and +beautiful the sense of the sublime. + +Looking westward, we have within our immediate view a contrast in the +form of a fine piece of pastoral scenery--green fields with cattle or +sheep grazing, ploughed land and cornfield, farm-steading, and all that +suggests the peaceful but laborious life of the hardy sons of toil. + +Almost at our feet, in striking solitude, we discern the chapel and +burying-ground of Dundurn. The peacefulness of the place, and the +solemn grandeur of the mountains which soar above, and seem as if +placed there to safeguard the seclusion, are all in harmony. + +From the point of view already taken, that noble Ben, called Biron, +forces itself upon our admiration--a mountain with what we might call +character--not of any common order--not beaten into any shape by the +ruthless elements, but with many determined points, which have survived +the war with winds and frosts and rains--an old veteran, who, in spite +of the scars where the shadows rest, has a look of triumph about him, +especially when his peaks at evening catch the setting rays of the sun, +or peer through a surrounding mist. + +Although we are not at any great altitude on the top of St. Fillan's +Hill, we are yet high enough to get a glimpse of that gem of Highland +lochs--Loch Earn, set literally at the feet of the hills, its waters +murmuring a never ceasing song, as if happy with their near presence, +having wooed and kissed their steep and rugged sides into silver +strands and gently curving bays from end to end; and, indeed, the very +woods, as if drawn by this music and this wooing, have come to the very +water's edge to bathe and to drink, and to watch their graceful forms +mirrored in the bosom of the loch. + +I need no apology for thus dwelling upon the romantic scenery of the +place, for if, in these matter-of-fact times, the fame and reputed +virtue of the Well of St. Fillans have departed, and the days of +pilgrimage to its source are over, still the pure air, and perfect +peace, and wild and romantic surroundings remain, to minister their +undoubted healing powers to wearied minds and jaded bodies. + +In writing about the Well of St. Fillans and other places of +antiquarian interest in this neighbourhood, it almost goes without +saying that much must be taken on trust. People are prone to believe +that the dirty pool of stagnant water which still remains in the driest +summer on the top of St. Fillan's Hill is the famous spring to which +pilgrims at one time resorted. Any one who examines it will not fail +to observe that it has all the appearance of an artificially built +well, and must have been kept in order and preservation for a purpose. +Tradition confirms the belief that this was at one time the well, but +not always. The Rev. Mr M'Diarmid, minister of the parish of Comrie +about the beginning of this century, gives us the following account of +it:-- + + +"This spring, tradition reports, reared its head on the top of Dun +Fholain (Fillan's Hill) for a long time, doing much good, but in +disgust (probably at the Reformation) it removed suddenly to the foot +of a rock, a quarter of a mile to the southward, where it still +remains, humbled, but not forsaken. It is still visited by +valetudinary people, especially on the 1st of May and the 1st of +August. No fewer than seventy persons visited it in May and August, +1791. The invalids, whether men, women, or children, walk or are +carried round the well three times in a direction Deishal--that is from +east to west, according to the course of the sun. They also drink of +the water and bathe in it. These operations are accounted a certain +remedy for various diseases. They are particularly efficacious for +curing barrenness, on which account it is frequently visited by those +who are very desirous of offspring. All the invalids throw a white +stone on the Saint's cairn, and leave behind them as tokens of their +gratitude and confidence some rags of linen or woollen cloth. The rock +on the summit of the hill formed of itself a chair for the Saint, which +still remains. Those who complain of rheumatism in the back must +ascend the hill, sit in this chair, then lie down on their back, and be +pulled down by the legs to the bottom of the hill. This operation is +still performed, and reckoned very efficacious. At the foot of the +hill there is a basin made by the Saint on the top of a large stone, +which seldom wants water even in the greatest drought, and all who are +distressed with sore eyes must wash them three times with this water." + + +Of such holy wells, it may be interesting to learn that there were, +previous to the Reformation, a great number throughout Scotland.[1] +They were usually called after saints, because of the cells of saints +being fixed near a spring. Hence these wells are usually in the +vicinity of old ecclesiastical sites, and in many cases where the wells +alone remain, they mark the place of those sites. + +At these wells all diseases were supposed to be within the reach of +cure. A student of the development theory might almost find traces of +the growth of the specialist in them, for some of them acquired a fame +for the cure of special diseases. The Well of St. Fillan, at +Strathfillan, _e.g._, was famous for the cure of insanity; the Well of +St. Fillan, about which I write, as has already been noticed, was much +resorted to for the cure of barrenness; and if we transfer the virtue +of the waters to the credit of the Saint under whose auspices a cure +was wrought, we might say of St. Servan that he was considered a great +oculist; of St. Anthony, that he was an eminent specialist in the +treatment of children's diseases; for to the Well of St. Servan the +blind were led, to the Well of St. Anthony, sickly and "backgane +bairns." In accounting for the popularity of these wells, the +philosopher will reflect that there is a kernel of truth in most +widespread error. The truth in the well is the truth that underlay the +hydropathic treatment involved, also the treatment of fresh air and +exercise, and the extra exertion, the stimulus of change, and the +excitement associated with such pilgrimages, not to speak of the power +of faith, based though it was on error. From this point of view we may +in some respects regard the modern hydropathic establishment as in the +line of development with the holy well of old. + +It is a testimony to the universality and the popularity of the holy +wells in this country, and to the persistency of the superstition, +after it had been condemned by the Reformation, that a public statute +had to be enacted in 1579 prohibiting these pilgrimages, and that this +having been ignored or defied, they had again to be denounced in the +strongest terms in 1679. "It seems not to be enough," says this edict, +"that whole congregations were interdicted from the pulpit preceding +the wonted period of resort, or that individuals humbled on their knees +in public acknowledgment of their offence were rebuked or fined for +disobedience. Now it was declared for the purpose of restraining the +superstitious resort in pilgrimage to chappellis and wellis, which is +so frequent and common in this kingdom, to the great offence of God, +the scandall of the Kirk, and disgrace of His Majestie's government, +that commissioners diligently search in all such pairts and places +where this idolatrous superstition is used, and to take and apprehend +all such persons, of whatsoever rank and quality, whom they sall +deprehend going pilgrimage to chappellis or wellis, or whom they sall +know themselves to be guilty of that cryme, and to commit them to waird +until such measures should be adopted for their trial and punishment." +It is further of especial interest to note the local effort made to +suppress these pilgrimages. In the records of the Synod of Perth there +is a minute to the following effect:-- + +"It is found that there is frequent repairing on certain days +superstitiously to some wells within this province, as to one called +Dumlorn, in Comrie. In the meantime the Synod ordains and entreats all +the gentlemen of these bounds where these wells, or any other of that +kind are, that they would use all diligence against these abuses as +they may according to the Acts of Parliament made thereanent." + + +Those who have an antiquarian turn of mind will, on visiting the top of +Dundurn, where the original well is supposed to have been, find +themselves expatiating upon other features of interest surrounding +them. The hill itself, it will be remarked, is covered all round, with +the exception of the precipitous front facing the east, with piles of +loose water-worn stones. At first view they appear only an irregular +mass, and seem to be there only to make the ascent more slippery and +difficult. Mr Skene, in his _Celtic Scotland_; points out that here we +have the remains of an ancient fort. It is only recently, however, +that the subject has come in for thorough investigation by Dr. +Christison, one of the Rhind lecturers on Archaeology, who, by careful +measurements and by the extensive knowledge which he has brought to +bear on the subject, has quite established the fact. One sees that +from the east side of the hill the position is by nature impregnable +against attack; while on the south, west, and north sides, it is the +triumph of the antiquarian's research and skill to re-build for us in +imagination a series of fortified lines and enclosures, the original +sites of which time has not altogether obliterated. The fortress was +known in early days as Dundurn, and must have been a stronghold of +considerable importance.[2] + +Looking down upon the plain below, the little chapel at our feet, +called the Chapel of St. Fillan, also takes us back to antiquity, +though to a less remote one than the fortifications. It takes us back +to pre-Reformation times. There is no record of the century to which +it belongs, and the only relic that has been preserved to us from the +pre-Reformation period is a holy water font. It stood in a niche in +the wall of the chapel. When, however, it was deemed advisable to +remove the tottering roof and to preserve what of the building would +make a picturesque ruin, the font was taken in charge by Colonel +Stewart of Ardvoirlich, and handed over by him to the Trustees of the +Dundurn Parish Church. Placed on a suitable stand, and with an +appropriate inscription, this font will represent an interesting link +between the past and the present. + +This old chapel, doubtless at one time a place of worship, was +abandoned at the Reformation, and was taken possession of by the +Stewart clan as a burial vault about the year 1580. For a long time +this interesting old burying-ground was allowed to remain in a state of +shameful neglect. There seemed to be no direct responsibility on the +part of any heritor for its upkeep, and what seemed everybody's +business became nobody's. This condition of _laissez faire_ was +confirmed by a sentimental though unreasonable objection to shifting +into their right position a number of head-stones which time and +weather had either displaced or Darwin's worms had covered up. It was +only five or six years ago that a Committee was formed, which in a +regular manner, and with the consent of all parties interested, took in +charge the upkeep of the burial-ground, with the aid of public +subscription. A head-stone of great interest to antiquarians is one +with figures of Adam and Eve sculptured in relief, while above these +figures an angel is represented. The tree carved on the other side of +the stone is evidently the tree of good and evil, and the whole +represents in a crude way the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise. +This Adam and Eve stone is considered very rare, there being very few +known throughout the country. This one differs from the others in the +absence of the serpent, which is usually represented on them. Another +monument of considerable interest is to be seen within the chapel. It +is a memorial tablet recently erected by the present Laird of +Ardvoirlich upon the wall of the east gable and containing the +following inscription:--"This chapel, dedicated in early times to St. +Fillan, the leper, has been, since the year 1586, the burial-place of +the sept or clan of Stewart of Ardvoirlich." Here follow the names of +those buried beneath, with the dates of their decease. On glancing +over the names there recorded, one will notice the name of Major James +Stewart, and will remember that it is to the same memory that a stone +still stands erected on the south side of the loch, about three miles +up. We there read that this Major James Stewart was temporarily +interred, and thereafter removed to his final resting-place at Dundurn. +This member of the clan seems to have been of a fiery, irascible, and +adventurous nature, and Sir Walter Scott, while in this neighbourhood, +found sufficient material in connection with this personage to +reproduce his likeness in his Allan M'Aulay of the _Legend of +Montrose_. In his introduction to this romance the author gives an +interesting account of his character, and sets before us two different +versions of the part he acted in the death of Lord Kilpont; indeed, one +will look upon the romantic scenery of this district with redoubled +interest after a perusal of this work of the great novelist. With +reference to this Major Stewart's tomb-stone on the side of the loch, +which has just been referred to, the legend is that the Major died a +natural death at Ardvoirlich, and his body was being carried to Dundurn +for burial, but the Drummonds and Murrays, who were at enmity with the +clan, threatened to intercept the funeral, and a snowstorm coming on, +they interred the body on the loch side near the spot where the stone +is, and subsequently took it to the chapel. + +Another head-stone of considerable interest is to be seen hear the +entrance to the grounds of Ardvoirlich itself. It marks the place +where the remains of seven of the Macdonalds were interred, the legend +being that that clan, on their way to or from a raid on Glenartney +Forest, attacked Ardvoirlich House, and the men of the clan being +absent with their cattle on the hills, the lady of the house kept them +at bay until the men came down, and then they slaughtered all the +Macdonalds, except one man, and their bodies were buried in a hole on +the loch side. Years after, on excavating to make a pond for cattle to +drink from, a number of human bones were found, and the stone was +erected to mark the spot. + +Another object of considerable antiquarian interest in the possession +of the Ardvoirlich family is the charm-stone. It is said by tradition +to have been brought from the Holy Land at the time of the Crusades by +the Fitz-Allans, who were progenitors of the Stewarts, and who were +active Crusaders. It was considered a most holy stone, and had healing +properties of a high order. It is a very perfect specimen of rock +crystal; the silver setting is Saracenic in character, and said to be +very old. Up to 1840, and even later, people used to come to +Ardvoirlich from long distances to have the stone immersed in water, +while a Gaelic incantation was repeated by the laird or lady. Then the +water was carried home, and one condition was that the possessor of the +water must not enter any house until home was reached; then if given to +cattle to drink, or sprinkled over them, it acted as a perfect cure for +any murrain or disease. + +On the death of the laird in 1854, the stone was sent into a bank for +safe custody, and then all the healing properties were destroyed. It +was said also that the last lady of Ardvoirlich who used it, and who +was a Maxtone of Cultoquhey, had no Gaelic, and was too lowland by +birth to believe in it, and she most irreverently (not knowing the +Gaelic incantation) just repeated--"If it'll dae ye nae guid, it'll dae +ye nae hairm," and that also destroyed the charm. + +Another object which does not fail to attract the attention of the +visitor to St. Fillans is the picturesque little island at the east end +of the loch, called the Neish Island, for it has its romantic story to +tell. "It is uncertain" (says John Brown in his description of the +place) when or by whom "the island in Loch Earn rose into form or +importance; but that it was entirely the work of man (and certainly it +was no contemptible undertaking) is evident from its circular shape, +the nature of the bed on which it is raised and surrounding it, and the +purpose to which it might be made subservient in lawless times. The +ancestors of the present family of Ardvoirlich made it their occasional +residence, at the remote period when they held the eight-mark land on +which St. Fillans is now built, an endowment which continued annexed to +the Chapel or Priory of Strathfillan till its dissolution at the +Reformation." On the island there are the remains of what appear to +have been a number of dwellings. That it was used as a haunt or refuge +by raiders is certain from the tradition which gives it its name of +Neish Island. According to the tradition, it was the refuge of the +remnant of the Clan Neish who had been defeated in a bloody battle with +the MacNabs. There the former carried on a kind of predatory warfare +with the MacNabs, and on one occasion so roused the wrath of the latter +that a speedy and terrible revenge followed. The stalwart sons of the +MacNab, urged by their wrathful sire, whose hint in the words--"The +night is the night if lads were but lads," almost amounted to a +command, equipped themselves with dirk, pistol, and claymore, raised a +boat on their shoulders, and carrying it by night all the way from Loch +Tay across the hills by Glentarken, launched it stealthily on Loch +Earn, and taking the Neishes by surprise are said to have killed them +all, except one boy, who made good his escape. The following lines by +the Rev. John Hunter, Crieff, give very appropriate expression and +colouring to this interesting tradition:-- + + Here sit we down on this fair sun-strewn bank, + Beside this queen of lakes, whose loveliness + From out of half-shut eyelids softly woos + To sweet forgetfulness. + Above, the wood, and interspersed knolls, + Made greener by the pat of fairy feet + And dancing moonbeams, fringe the rugged knees + Of scarred and bronzéd heights whose wind-notched crests + Look grandly down. Fair scene and home of peace + Ineffable; and yet not ever so, + For I have seen these scars run full and white, + And heard their trumpetings as they rush'd madly + Adown the spray-sown steep, past wood and knoll, + To mingle with the waters of the lake + Vexed with the storm and sounding loud in sympathy. + What have we here? What human trace of times + When hearts o'erflowed, and hand and steel were swift, + And red in the flashing of a hasty thought? + Ah me! these times, these woful times when word + And blow were wed, and none could sunder them, + And honour'd live! See yonder isle set single + In the lake, near by where Earn darts swiftly 'neath + The rustic bridge to bear the music of the place + To broader Tay, who murmurs from afar + In the rich harmony of his many streams--yon isle, + The haunt of lovers now, where hearts that touch + And thrill, cling closer in the eerie sense + Of fear that lurks amid the tumbled stones + Of robbers' lair. Here, once upon a time, + When might was right, and men made wrongful + Gain of Nature's fastnesses, a ruffian couched + And preyed upon his kind. Long time he throve, + But vengeance woke at length, and the heavy tread + Of frowning men from far Loch Tay--skiff-laden. + Adown the glen they came one moonless night, + Goaded by tingling sneer of white-hair'd sire. + They rest where Tarken pours his scanty tide, + Then silently--nor moon nor star appearing-- + Launch forth upon the lake, and softly steal + Towards the caitiff's fire gleaming through the dark + Like blood-shot eye. All saving one, and he + Was left to skirt the shore and give the foe + Rough welcome should he 'scape to land. Who then + Fair-hair'd and young stood there in melting mood, + With all his mother in his swimming eyes, + Of abbot's line--with dirk half drawn, fearing, + Hoping, praying, as his gentler nature bade + That life and light would not go out together. + The hope seem'd vain. From out the gloom there came + The grinding keel--the tread of hurrying feet-- + Clashing of words, of steel, and all was dark-- + And all was still. But hark! a sound--the faint + Breathing of one who swims with pain, the plash + Of nerveless hands nearer and nearer comes, + Yet ever fainter. What boots it now to have + Escaped the vengeful swords that smote his kin? + The waves engulf him and his bubbling cry. + But unhoped help is near--a friendly word-- + A plunge, then stroke on stroke, and timeously + A hand to save. Say not, ye thoughtless ones, + That yon grim head, clean sever'd from the trunk, + Was the chief trophy of that night. Nay; + For kindly thoughts endure, and the High Will + That holds all things within the ever-opening fold + Of His eternal purpose--that High Will + Look'd down with loving eyes that pierce the dark, + And bless'd the deeds that glorified MacNab, + The abbot's son--half-savage and half-saint. + Time sped; the deed was not forgot, and still + The tale is told when nights are long and the lone + Owl hoots upon the hill. And now there stands + Within bowshot of the isle--a house of God + That calls to prayer--a parish church--the fruit + Of kindly thoughts that stirr'd the watcher's heart, + And clomb to Heaven in mute appeal, that night + When vengeance smote and light and life went out together. + + +So much, then, for the prospect which an antiquarian standing by the +Well of St. Fillan would embrace within the programme of his research. +If we try to form a picture of the social condition of the people who +lived in the midst of this fair vale of Earn in those early days, it is +a scene of continual strife we conjure up--clan fighting with clan, and +one feud succeeding another. These were the days of superstitious +pilgrimages, days of rooted custom and unchanging faith. So much the +better for the Saint. The halo of his sanctity shines out all the more +against the background of ignorance and strife. If he were to re-visit +those scenes now, how much would he have to deplore! No more +pilgrimages, no more belief in miracles. What a downcome from his +dignity to be the patron of a golf course or the chaplain of a curling +club, instead of enjoying the fame and name of the holy well. +_Requiescat in pace_. + +The past was not all strife, however. Traces of agriculture lead us to +picture this fine strath as at one time throng with peaceful and busy +life. There were, no doubt, in those warlike times intervals of peace, +when the inhabitants of the glen could tend their cattle and cultivate +their potatoes and corn at leisure; and whether we look back upon this +land of the "mountain and the flood" as having been the nursery of our +best soldiers, or as having been peopled by a race rendered strong and +manly by a simple mode of life, the present prospect of our Highland +glens cannot but fill us with sad reflection when we behold the process +of emigration and depopulation still going on, and when we see that ere +long the only links with the past of a once strong and hardy race of +people will be the mere traces of their cultivation, the ruins of their +once populous hamlets, and the grave-stones in their old +burying-grounds. + +It is true there is a compensating process going on. For while one +regrets the disappearance of the old thatched houses of the primitive +village of St. Fillans and the migration of their youthful life to the +city, the rise of the modern villa along the loch side speaks of the +growth of a temporary population known as the "summer visitors." It +is not likely that their peaceful pursuits--their climbing and pic-nic +expeditions, their regattas and loch illuminations, will be considered +to be as worthy to be recorded in a future "Book of Chronicles" as the +feuds and raids of the past. Still, it is to be hoped that this land +of "brown heath and shaggy wood" may even in this innocent way minister +to the rearing of a healthy manhood and womanhood, and continue to be +the nursery of that muscular body and brave spirit which in the past +have made the name of Caledonia great. + + + +[1] _Proceedings of the Antiquarian Society_, 1882-83. + +[2] Fortrenn seems to have been the ancient name of a large district of +Strathearn, of which Dundurn, or the fort of the Earn, was the capital. + + + + +THE PLAIN OF THE BARDS + +By Rev. ARTHUR GORDON, M.A., Monzievaird + +To supply even in brief outline a sketch of the united parishes of +Monzievaird and Strowan is to cover many centuries and to recall some +extraordinary events and remarkable persons. These parishes comprise +an area of about eight miles long by six miles broad, and on the map +somewhat resemble a pear. The scenery varies from the bare summit of +Benchonzie, the limit on the north, where the highest elevation is +reached at 3048 feet, and the wood-crowned Turleum, 1291 feet high, +where "wind and water sheers," the southern boundary, down to the +well-cultivated and nearly level carse, which lies all the way between +Crieff and Comrie at about two hundred feet above the sea. The little +hills abound with coigns of vantage, rewarding the pedestrian; while +even the driving tourist finds a rich harvest for the eye in the +wonderfully diversified landscape presented on all sides. The River +Earn, if it lacks the majesty of the Tay and the impetuosity of the +Garry, makes itself recognised as the dominating feature, whether in +its quiet meandering moods or in the flooded temper, overflowing its +banks and spreading its deposit of alluvial soil. Its tributaries--the +Lednock, with its "Deil's Cauldron," and the Turret and Barvick, oft +visited for their pleasing cascades, along with many another rivulet +and spring--call up the Promised Land of old--"a land of hills and +valleys which drinketh water of the rain of heaven." In climate, also, +this part of Strathearn is singularly favoured, sheltered as it is from +the biting east wind and fortified from the northern blasts by its +mountain barriers. Its rainfall, also, is far from excessive; for many +sky-piercing hill-tops tap the rain clouds from the Atlantic long +before they reach Central Perthshire. + +The name of the parish, now called Monzievaird, but formerly Monivaird, +and anciently Moivaird, is believed to be Gaelic, and to signify, not +the hill, but rather the "mossy plain" of the bards. It is difficult +to say how far this carries us back. The Bards are not to be +confounded with the Druids, a religious class from which they were +quite distinct. The bards seem to have been the seanachies, +antiquaries, poets, and genealogists. It was their special function to +compose and to chant verses or rhymes in praise of their heroes or +benefactors, and in the absence, so far as we know, of any method of +recording past transactions or histories, we may believe that our +ancestors transmitted orally, in lines composed by the bards, the +memorable sayings and deeds which they wished to hand down to +generations after them. How far they were worthy of credit, and how +far they were subject to the vices of flattery or detraction we cannot +tell, but we may be sure that those who were accounted great in these +ancient times were anxious to have their doughty deeds immortalised, +and perhaps were as sensitive to the tone of public criticism thus +represented as is the statesman or warrior of to-day. What would we +not give to hear from the living voice of one of those bards, were it +only possible, the stores of traditionary lore of which they were the +sole depositories! As it is, we can but lament the almost total +absence of reliable information regarding their genius, perhaps also +the jealous competition for the laureate's place in these pre-historic +times. + +Remains at the western end of the parish are supposed to represent two +Druidical temples. Cairns and barrows have been numerous, and in one +of these, on Ochtertyre, there was discovered, near the close of last +century, a stone coffin, containing two coarse earthenware urns. One +of these held burnt bones, and the other the bones of a head, having +the lower jaw-bone and teeth in marvellous preservation. In the stone +coffin was also found a stone hatchet about four inches long, bluish +coloured, and of triangular shape, which evidently belonged to an age +before iron was in use here. It is well known that the Romans had +camps at Ardoch, Strageath, and Dalginross. Evidences of their +presence in Monzievaird might, therefore, be expected, and they are not +awanting. A Roman burial-ground of some extent, full of large slabs of +stone, lies northeast of Clathick (hence perhaps the name), and is in a +line between the camp at Dalginross--a circular burial-place near +Victoria--and the Roman station on the Brae of Callander. In 1783 +there was found in the plain of Monzievaird a bronze vessel resembling +a coffee-pot, and in 1805 the bronze head of a spear was found in +Ochtertyre Loch. In 1808 similar spear heads were found near the +church, erected in 1804, which now serves the united parishes. These +relics are pronounced by the best antiquarians to be undoubtedly Roman. + +We now proceed to notice the first written account which history gives +of Monzievaird. If there be any truth in the old chroniclers, a battle +was fought here, and, after a long civil war, a contested succession to +the Crown was settled by the slaughter of the reigning sovereign of +Alban, a usurper who passes over the stage of history under the various +names of "Gryme," "Girgh Mackinat Macduff," and reigned eight years. +It may be worth while to give several references. John of Fordun's +chronicle tells how Malcolm, son of Kenneth, strengthened by the favour +of the people, and at the instigation of some of his chiefs, sent a +message to the King, giving him the alternatives of either vacating the +throne, or that they two should submit their cause to the just verdict +of God by fighting, either man to man or accompanied by their warrior +hosts. Gryme was very indignant at this defiance, while Malcolm, on +the other hand, boldly advanced to meet him with a small but picked +band, and reached a field called Auchnabard (the field of the bards), +styled "a meet place for a battle." Here the two armies fought out a +cruel engagement, till at length the King was mortally wounded, and, +being led out of the battle by his men, died the same night. Thus +Malcolm gained the victory and the kingdom. The register of St. +Andrews calls the slain monarch "Kenneth (Grim)," and makes his death +to be "at Moieghvard" in 1001. _The Chronykil of Scotland_ calls this +same place "Bardory," and in Latin "Campus Bardorum," which corresponds +to Auchnabard. A cairn on a neighbouring height commemorates this +conflict which made history; but the slain King was not buried here, but + + "Carried to Colme-Kill; + The sacred storehouse of his predecessors, + And guardian of their bones." + + +The Church of Monzievaird was in all probability founded, by Saint +Serf, and he was certainly its patron saint. If we are not compelled +to postulate two saints of this name from the number of years covered +by traditions which cannot all relate to the same person, we would +incline to quit hold of the earlier and less definite tradition, and to +consider Saint Serf as contemporary with Adamnan, the celebrated Abbot +of Iona, and distinguished biographer of Saint Columba. St. Serf +founded many churches, and his reputation in the Middle Ages for the +neat and appropriate miracles attributed to him may be reckoned the +measure of his eminence among Scotland's early evangelists. Wyntoun +gives a quaint dialogue between St. Serf and the enemy of mankind, in +which the Devil, plying the Saint with many knotty theological +questions, wholly fails to overcome him, and suddenly departs. Another +of these monkish miracles makes St. Serf discover the theft of a sheep +by ordering it to bleat forth the story of its wrongs from the guilty +stomach of the thief, and to redden his face with shame for having +denied his crime! St. Serf's memory survives here in the well called +after him, with its plentiful supply of water. As lately as 1760 the +parishioners were wont to be drawn by a lurking superstition to drink +of it on Lammas Day, leaving in it white stones, spoons, or rags, which +they brought as remembrancers, just as devout Mohammedans still leave +their prayer rags attached to the grating of the Mosque El-Aksa, at +Jerusalem, or the lower branches of the giant oak that marks the site +of the grove at Dan. St. Serf's festival and fair day long continued, +and was kept on the 1st of July while the market lasted. The church +itself was impropriated to the Abbey of Inchaffray, founded by the Earl +of Strathearn about the beginning of the twelfth century, and was +served by a vicar, to whom that monastery delegated the clerical duty, +doubtless on the usual pittance of stipend. + +The Tosachs, from the Gaelic word meaning "first" or "chief," were the +old proprietors of Monzievaird. Their first residence was not at the +old castle at Greenend, but at Balmuick, on the estate of Lawers, then +called Fordie, and the foundation of the house was traceable at the +close of last century. The chief of Monzievaird was accustomed to +execute a man on the first day of every month, and this celebration of +the almanac at Tom-an-Tosach was apparently designed to prevent the +feudal rights of pit and gallows from falling into desuetude. The +story runs that the last chief held nightly interviews with a fairy, a +proceeding which aroused his wife's jealousy. She tracked him by a +ball of worsted attached to his button, and, discovering him in +conclave with the fairy, demanded her immediate destruction. Thereupon +the fairy fled, and the power of the Tosach departed also. The +inhabitants rose against him, and he had to seek refuge abroad. + +Castle Cluggy, which stands on the peninsula on the north side of the +Loch of Monzievaird, is undoubtedly very old, but how old no one can +tell. A square tower, about 17 feet by 18 feet, with walls five or six +feet thick, of tremendous strength, is all that now remains. It is +said to have been a seat of the "Red Cumin," the rival of Robert the +Bruce for the throne of Scotland, slain at Dumfries before the high +altar. The prison is sometimes said to have been on the island in the +loch, but really the dungeon must be sought under the foundations of +the tower. In the charter giving Ochtertyre to the Murrays, in the +year 1467, it is even then described as an "ancient fortalice." The +key of the tower was found about fifty years ago on the east side of +the building. The old church of Monzievaird, now converted into a +mausoleum, was the scene of a dreadful tragedy, characteristic of the +spirit of feudal times. The Murrays and the Drummonds were but ill +neighbours in the days of James IV. The collision between them in this +instance has been ascribed to the levying of tithes, but without +historic grounds; and the law of retaliation is even older than that of +teinds, and far more widely practised. In a foray which began near +Knock Mary the Murrays or their retainers were overpowered and driven +westward. They kept up a running fight round the western base of +Tomachastel, and an obstinate struggle took place in the hollow between +Westerton and the Loch, where many men fell. The Murrays, however, +succeeded in reaching the church, where 120 men able to bear arms, with +their wives and children, took refuge. They were followed by the +Drummonds, reinforced, as some say, by Campbell of Dunstaffhage, and +thirsting for vengeance. Even then they might have escaped, had not +one of the Murray clan indiscreetly revealed their hiding-place by +aiming a successful shot at one of the Drummonds. The Drummonds now +summoned them to surrender, but in vain, and then piled wood round the +long, low, heather-thatched edifice, and consumed it with its human +holocaust. One Murray alone, David by name, escaped, being aided by +one of the Drummonds, who was attached to his sister. He in turn was +hated and persecuted by his own clan, and forced to escape to Ireland. +After some years he returned thence under the effectual protection of +the powerful Abbot of Inchaffray, who was a Murray. He was settled on +the Abbey lands, and the property which he received still bears the +name of Drummond-Ernoch (of Erin). + +The massacre of Monzievaird was sternly avenged by King James IV. The +Master of Drummond, leader of the party, and some of his followers were +executed at Stirling. The estate of Drummond was required to provide +for the widows and orphans, and further to expiate their sacrilegious +crime by re-building the church. Even then the house of prayer could +scarcely be called the abode of peace. It is said to have been the +scene of fierce bickerings, and that the gauntlet of the Murrays was +for many years fastened on a small gallery of the church, and formal +challenge made to anyone to remove it before divine service was allowed +to begin. When the foundations of the present mausoleum were being dug +a quantity of charred wood was found, and very many calcined +bones--those nearer the door on the west being of larger size than the +others towards the east, which were probably those of women and +children. They must have been buried as they lay. + +The Murrays of Ochtertyre come of the Tullibardine family, and the +present proprietor is the fifteenth in descent from the first. The +addition of Keith to the ancient "Moray," changed to Murray, arose from +marriage with the heiress of Dunnottar Castle, in Kincardineshire. It +is a singular fact that the succession has uniformly descended from +father to son. The existing house of Ochtertyre was built by the +great-grandfather of the present Baronet, and for prospect it would be +hard to equal it. The old house stood near the great ash tree further +west, and a yet older is proved by a family record, which narrates the +births of generations at Quoig House, above the church. Robert Burns' +visit to Ochtertyre in 1787 and the two poems he produced are too +familiar to need mention here. In the reign of Charles I. a mortality +greater even than that caused by war almost depopulated the bonnie +braes of Ochtertyre. The dreaded Plague assumed alarming proportions, +and many huts were erected for isolation near the west end of +Monzievaird Loch. The dead were not buried in the churchyard, but in a +large sepulchral mound near the Marle Lodge gate. + +The Right Honourable Sir George Murray, G.C.B., perhaps the most +distinguished member of the Ochtertyre family, after meritorious +service in Egypt and the Peninsular War, was chief of the general staff +under Wellington at Waterloo. He also served the State as a +politician, six times representing Perthshire in Parliament, and +attaining among many honours the office of Secretary of State for the +Colonies in the Duke of Wellington's Government of 1828. The present +Baronet is a worthy successor of an honoured line, and his generous +consideration for the public in throwing open his grounds and granting +the fullest facilities for their enjoyment deserves the highest praise. +It is claimed for Glenturret that the two last wolves seen in Scotland +were killed there. But a similar claim has been advanced for +Nairnshire, and, with far more likelihood, for the wilds of the Moor of +Rannoch. The glen, however, was long famous for its falcons. In few +places is the bird-life more various or abundant than in the woods of +bonnie Ochtertyre. And the rabbit, introduced there while the present +century was young, has evidently come to stay and to multiply. + +At Upper Quoig two reputed witches once dwelt, but whether from greater +fear or greater enlightenment here than elsewhere, they were never +called to endure the ordeal either by fire or by water. They hunted in +couples apparently, for the story goes that two men at Clathick, rising +early on a May morning, saw them coming up the burn-side, putting a +tether across the stream, and saying, "Come all to me." This +incantation succeeded in providing the witches' dairy with a double +supply of milk, while their neighbours had none! Verily many poor old +crones have lost their lives on as trivial a charge. Passing westward +to the compact property of Clathick, now owned by Captain Campbell +Colquhoun, we learn that it was given off from Ochtertyre in dowry with +a Miss Mary Murray. It was a curious marriage contract provision that +her initials should be cut upon each lintel, and men were living thirty +years ago who had seen "M.M." carved on the stones of the old house. + +The estate of Lawers conjures up from the deep oblivion of ages many +stirring times. It was originally "Fordie," but was named Lawers after +the Campbells from Loch Tayside came into possession. How different +our quiet Christian Lord's Days and "kirk-yard cracks" from these +Sunday and festival occasions of bloodshed, + + "When strangers from Breadalbane + And clansmen from Loch Tay + Brought to the priest their offerings, + But fought each holy day!" + +Still we may remark the ruined chapel almost smothered by the +overturned yew trees that were planted, less, perhaps, to mark the +"route" of the Mass carried in procession (hence "routine," corrupted +into "Rotten Row,") than to furnish the twanging bow for these martial +spirits. That great boulder-stone at the north-eastern end of the +magnificent avenue opposite is, most likely, a Roman landmark, though +it is customary to declare that the Earn once flowed past it. Colonel +Campbell of Lawers was not only a sincere reformer, but John Knox's +history tells us how he commanded a regiment raised to make good the +cause of religious faith and freedom. His second successor was a yet +more staunch and eminent Scotsman, knighted in 1620, and created Earl +of Loudon in 1633. He proved himself a stout opponent of the arbitrary +measures of Charles I. and Laud; was one of the most prominent actors +in the Glasgow Assembly of 1638, and nominated to represent the Church +of Scotland in the Westminster Assembly of Divines. He narrowly +escaped being beheaded in the Tower of London, in spite of a safe +conduct and without trial; but the fiat of the insensate monarch was +recalled, and the warrant torn up by Charles a single day before the +axe was doomed to fall, from fear of the odium and vengeance his death +would have called forth. Not to remain Chancellor of Scotland (as he +was for ten years) would he imperil the interests of religious liberty +and national independence, just then threatened by Stuart absolutism; +and yet he was a man of the type of the great Montrose, as loyal to the +King as he was true to Church and people. Few deserve better to rank +among "The Scots Worthies." He disponed Lawers estate to his brother, +who, fighting against Cromwell at Inverkeithing, was badly beaten, and +had his lands on the north of Loch Earn taken from him by an oppressive +exaction put in force against him by the same Stuart dynasty, whose +cause he had so faithfully championed. + +A thrilling tale introduces the next laird of Lawers, son of the last +named. He executed a punitive commission against his uncanny +neighbours, the Macgregors, who determined on revenge. They surprised +him at Lawers in bed, and threatened instant death, even in his wife's +presence. He urged for time to pray, and that it might be for +quietness in the chapel hard by, which request they granted. On the +way thither he so played on their cupidity, offering them 10,000 merks +if they would spare his life, that at last he prevailed. Faithful to +his engagement, he raised this immense sum, much of it being gathered +in halfpence, and carried on horseback to the appointed trysting-place. +But Lawers was better than his word, for soldiers surrounded the house, +and made the Macgregors prisoners. The game ended with checkmate, when +the duped freebooters paid the death penalty in Edinburgh. Colonel +David R. Williamson, the present laird of Lawers, has been long noted +for his public spirit and eminent services to agriculture. + +Tomachastel, the central wooded height of the parish, now surmounted by +the monument, erected by his widow, in 1832, to the memory of General +Sir David Baird of Ferntower, is marked out beyond all reasonable doubt +as the site of the ancient Castle of Earn, for long the fortress +dwelling of the great and powerful Earls of Strathearn. The title is +now merged in the names of Royalty, like the Dukedoms of Rothesay and +Albany. Our own beloved Queen's father was the Duke of Kent and +Strathearn, as her third son is Duke of Connaught and Strathearn. No +situation within the wide strath can compare with it in fair and +far-reaching prospect, combined with facilities for defence; and the +lighting of its beacon fire would be so universally observed over a +wide domain that a personal summons, like that of the fiery cross, +would scarcely be needed. Romance and gruesome horror are strangely +blended here; for was it not from the walks in close proximity to the +castle that the fair Lady Mary Graham, only daughter of stout old +Malise, Earl of Strathearn, espied her future husband, John Moray of +Drumshergart, fishing in the well-stocked pools below? And did he not +find her society more engrossing than any (whole or half) scaly +inhabitant of the mermaid's pool? The Morays of Abercairny estate (the +fair lady's marriage portion) and many another territorial family claim +descent from the union of these happy lovers. The rough hospitality, +and swift, if not always impartial, administration of feudal justice +are themes inviting to historic imagination; nor is the religious +element wanting, for the Earls of Strathearn, besides founding +Inchaffray Abbey, endowed the Bishopric of Dunblane with one-third of +their domains. A sad and shameful story links the castle with the good +King Robert the Bruce, and probably brought about its destruction. +Joanna, only child of the seventh Earl, was Countess in her own right, +and married to John de Warenne, Earl of Surrey, and English Governor of +Scotland. The husband and wife had different minds and purposes. The +lady was found guilty of conspiracy, with Lord Soulis of Hermitage +Castle and others, against the life of the good King Robert. She +confessed her offence, and was condemned to perpetual imprisonment +within her own castle. Constant tradition affirms that it was set on +fire and burnt to the ground, whether as the result of accident or a +successful siege. One story tells how the Earl tried to save his wife, +but failed from the irresistible power of the flames. The castle +became a ruin, and was never re-built. Actual observation, after more +than 500 years, has confirmed the truth, in this case stranger than +fiction. Sir David Baird, the hero of the Nile, Cape of Good Hope, +Corunna, and Seringapatam (remembered by the oldest folk for hunting +with hawks, attended by a native Indian), having died at Ferntower in +1832, was first buried in Monzievaird Churchyard, and old people still +recall the extraordinary storm of thunder and rain which signalised his +funeral day. His widow prepared the massive monumental obelisk of +granite, said to be exactly similar to Cleopatra's Needle, since struck +by lightning in 1878, and badly rent, but now restored. It required +foundations broad and deep. Most of the stones of the old castle had +gone to form dykes in the neighbourhood. The workmen, thinking they +had to deal with solid rock, proceeded to blast it, when to their +amazement the charge of gunpowder, instead of only throwing stones and +debris into the air, operated downward and revealed a dungeon cut in +the solid rock. There lay all that remained of the proud and daring +Joanna, Countess of Strathearn and Princess of the Orkneys. A few gold +and silver bracelets and ornaments, belonging to a lady's dress, were +found among the black rubbish with another trinket, teaching the old, +old lesson, "Vanity of vanities, all is vanity." + +It only remains to describe the antiquities of Strowan. There was a +Thane of "Struin" in Strathearn, in very early times, when Thanes were +servants of the King, holding their land in fee-farm for a certain +"census," or feu-duty. Strowan, like Monzievaird, had a Celtic saint +for founder--St. Ronan. He is not to be identified with the saint of +that name, of whom the venerable Bede records that he championed the +later Roman method of calculating the time of the Easter festival +against Bishop Finan of Lindisfarne, who stoutly held the Columban +rule. Rather may we count him the same with the Abbot of Kingarth, in +Bute (died 737 A.D.), and founder of Kilmaronog, on Loch Etive, the +parish of similar name in Dumbartonshire, and the Parish Church of +Iona, called after him "Tempul Ronain." St. Ronan's name is to this +day associated with his well, the pool that never failed to supply him +with fish on Fridays; the ruins of the old church or chapel, and St. +Ronan's bell. Tradition says that the Cross of Crieff was taken from +Strowan to Crieff upwards of 200 years ago. The market cross of +Strowan now stands on a small mound west from the old kirk and near the +mansion-house. A fine old lime tree which shaded it succumbed to the +unprecedented storm of November, 1893; and all who know the venerable +Laird of Strowan hope that he may live to see the young lime sapling +with which he lately replaced it grow up to cast its shade over the +cross once more. The latter is Maltese in form; and has on it, besides +the initials of the Latin inscription on the Saviour's cross, I.N.R.I., +the Moray star, and other symbols. It was probably taken from the +churchyard. The arches of the bridge, with its narrow roadway and +parapet, and little cities of refuge for foot-passengers, are not of a +hoary antiquity; but the pillars, on which at one time planks used to +be laid for crossing, are much older. The Kirk-Session records contain +many entries of sums paid to the boatman for ferrying parishioners from +the north side to Strowan Church. Picturesque ruin though the church +is, it is not 230 years old in any part, and public worship on +alternate Sundays was performed there till the beginning of this +century. In 1669 the previous church was still standing, and in such +repair that an application was made to the Synod to require the lairds +of Monzievaird, Ochtertyre, Fordie, Clathick, &c., to attend the Church +of Strowan in consequence of Monzievaird Church having become ruinous +and past repair. The Commissioners of Teinds had ordered one church to +be built near the present site, but the heritors of each of the united +parishes did their best to evade complying. Two graves are deserving +of special mention. One is the resting-place of "fair Helen of +Ardoch"; the other marks the place of repose of the eldest son of the +House of Strowan, who laid down his life on the sands of Tel-el-Kebir, +bravely advancing to the charge against the Egyptian lines. + +St. Ronan's Bell is preserved at Strowan House. It is small, circular, +and looks as if it had been made to be grasped by the hand. Tradition +says it was rung under the bell-man's gown when mass was said in Romish +times. The tongue is wanting. Some say it never had one, but was +meant to be struck from without. It never could have been heard afar +off. Close scrutiny proves it to be slightly cracked. But worthless +for music, it is excellent for law! It is the symbol of tenure of +Ballindewar or Dewarland. (Dewar is from the Gaelic for keeper). The +Dewars were the hereditary beadles of Strowan, and keepers of St. +Ronan's bell. They held their croft free of all cess, stipend, or +public burden, as it still remains. When the present Laird of Strowan +negotiated at a high price the purchase of this piece of land, he +received with "the bellman's pendicle" the bell itself as the charter +of the feu lands, and as custodier of all rights of the same. + +The saddest feature in making this short survey of the united parish is +the great and continuous decline of the population. In 1755 there were +1460 people; in 1793 there were 1025; in 1891 the number had sunk to +490. No doubt the livelier prospects of town life allure many. No +doubt many have profited by the fact of removal. The agricultural +outlook appears gloomier than ever, which tends to restrict the area +under cultivation. But it cannot be gainsaid that many have had to +remove from the mistaken policy of adding land to land and field to +field. It is breaking down when viewed in the sole interest of the +proprietor; how much more is it found wanting when viewed from the +standpoint of the wider interests and welfare of our common country? + +The minister of Monzievaird and Strowan most likely to achieve +immortality is the Rev. William Robertson, the gifted versifier and +author of Hymns 3--"Thee God we praise, Thee Lord confess," the +Monzievaird _Te Deum_, and 311--"A little child the Saviour came," the +first baptismal hymn, in the Scottish Hymnal. To him the account now +given, incomplete as it is, owes more than to any other. He has also +cast into verse that seems worth preserving his parish musings in the +following lines:-- + + A shady knoll o'erlooks a dale + Where Earn meanders down the vale; + A knoll enwreathed in oak and fern, + The sweetest nook in all Strathearn. + The morn there breaks with earliest ray, + Here latest shines the lingering day, + There summer reigns supremely fair, + And winter ev'n is lovely there. + Its eastern prospect looks entire + Along the glades of Ochtertyre; + Its south, a mountain forest shade + By dark blue pine and larches made; + While lone Glenartney in the west + Lies cradled like a turtle's nest, + And huge Benvoirlich crown'd with snow + Defends the smiling glens below. + Dear shady knoll, whose varied view + Enfolds green field and mountain blue, + How oft at morn and eventide + I've strolled around thy stony side + And listened to the artless song + That swell'd the glorious vale along! + Mark'd where the sunbeams kindliest fell + On rocky ridge and heathery dell, + And yielded all my soul to share + The teachings of a scene so fair! + In storm or calm, thy grateful shade + My fond retreat was ever made. + There have I marked the thunder cloud + Invest all heaven with sable shroud; + There heard the peal arouse again + The echoes of the Turret glen, + While Auchingarroch from afar + Rolled back the elemental war; + There have I watched wing'd lightning play + Adown Glenartney's rugged way, + Or gild each flinty summit hoar + From Callander to far Ken More; + There seen the Ruchill deluge foam, + And o'er the strath in eddies roam, + Sweeping beyond the power to save + A golden harvest on its wave. + + * * * * * + + High on my left, unstained by storm, + An obelisk uprears its form; + Commemorates in fitting style + Heroic deeds upon the Nile, + When he who conquered in Mysore + To Afric's sands his legions bore, + And showed the trembling prince and slave + The gentleness of one that's brave. + Yet on that monumental stone + More feats of high renown are shown, + Where he a prisoner and enchained, + At last his noblest laurels gained: + Lived to avenge each treacherous wrong, + And triumph when he suffered long. + There, too, his brilliant tasks to cope, + 'Tis told he seized the Cape of Hope; + And sad Corunna's bloody shore + But added to his fame the more. + A widow's love the warrior praised, + A widow's love the column raised; + And yet that column tall and bold, + Traced in the lines of Egypt old, + Arises as a new cut stone + Amid the dust of ages gone; + For while it tells of yesterday, + It stands upon the summit grey + Where stately tower and donjon stern + Were keep and tomb of fair Strathearn; + Where Wallace oft his prowess tried, + And royal Bruce in valour vied. + Talk we of Bruce? By yon dark wood + The Comyn's ancient fortress stood-- + That traitor whose unhappy fate + Still on the monarch's conscience sate, + And urged him in a zeal divine + To send his heart to Palestine. + + See where the waters dash aside, + And swiftly round the thicket glide, + Where mossy crag and fan-like bough + Inshade the torrent far below. + Within a towery wilderness + Of nature's wildest gorgeousness, + There rose in architecture quaint + The cell of Strowan's valiant saint-- + A soldier-priest whose claymore long + Was more persuasive than his tongue; + Here stands his cross, there flows his well, + Here still is seen his holy hell; + Here, ivy-mantled, still remain + The ruins of the ancient fane, + Where once to heaven the anthem rose, + And silent now the loved repose. + + On every side each scene has store + Of song and legendary lore; + Each stream has still its story true, + Each height some bloody conflict knew; + Each crag must give its meed to fame, + And consecrate a hero's name. + High o'er the rest, all bleak and dern, + Moulders the royal Kenneth's cairn, + Who for his crown his good sword bared, + And fell in fight at Monzievaird. + Even in their church, the doom of fire + Consumed the clan of Ochtertyre; + And in his home across the plain, + Old Drummond-Ernoch was slain; + Sons of the mist avenged their dead, + And bore away his grisly head. + + Old tales like these, old legends true, + Spring up where'er I turn my view-- + From Turret's glen and brawling wave, + From Tosach's keep and fairy grave, + From Ochtertyre's unfading bower, + From Comyn's lone and moated tower, + From where our chief with skilful eye + Watched wonders in the midnight sky, + From Tomachastel's haunted brow, + From cell for Ronan's prayer and vow, + From lordly Drummond's forest wall, + From Lochlane's grim empannelled hall, + From stately Turleum clothed in pine, + And every height surrounding mine. + 'Twere idle then each tale to tell, + Of ancient feat by stream or dell, + From Benychonzie's snow-clad breast + To green Glenartney in the west, + Or round by sweet Dunira's den, + Where "bonnie Kilmanie gaed up the glen." + No need I ween of distant view + My sauntering footsteps hence to woo; + No need of song or knightly feat + To add new charm to my retreat. + Its own associations claim + Far better meed than modern fame, + With books and scenes and neighbours sage, + I commune with a former age. + + + + +BETWEEN STRATHALLAN AND STRATHEARN + +By Rev. JAMES MACGIBBON, B.D., Blackford. + +The name Blackford was given, according to tradition, by an ancient +king of Caledonia, whose experience in passing the River Allan at this +point was of the saddest. The stream spread itself out in those days, +says the story, so as to be more lake than stream. When the king came +to it with his queen and suite the waters were deep and the current +strong. It must have been at night surely, if we are to have any faith +in the tale, for the poor queen was carried away beyond help and hope. +They drained the strath dry to recover the body; and a solitary knoll +on the Allan's bank some way below the present village marks the place +where they found and buried the remains of fair Queen Helen. Hence the +name Blackford. In the days of the Roman occupation the legionaries +frequented this upper part of Strathallan, and have left traces of +their presence. Many of them, indeed, must have quartered near; for at +the Loaninghead, about two miles east of the village, there is an +undeniable Roman camp, an outpost of the great camp at Ardoch. + +But the earliest historical reference to Blackford is in Blind Harry's +"Acts and Deeds of Sir William Wallace." After taking the peel of +Gargunnock, Wallace and his men passed up Strathallan on the way to +Methven, and at Blackford met a party of the English, whom they slew, +and threw their bodies into the Allan. + + "At yai Blackfurd, as at yai suld pass our,[1] + A squeir come, and with hym bernys four. + Till Doun suld ryd and wend at yai had beyne + All Inglismen, at he befor had seyne. + Tithings to sper he howid yaim amang. + Wallace yarwith swyth with a suerd outswang. + Apon ye hede he straik with so great ire, + Throw bayne and brayne in sondyr schar ye swyr. + Ye tothir four in hands sone wer hynt, + Derfly to dede stekyt or yai wald stynt. + Yar horss yai tuk, and quhat yaim likit best, + Spoilzied yaim bar, syne in the brook yaim kest." + +Further on in the same story, we learn that Wallace after slaying +Fawdoune, and seeing his ghost at Gask Hall, rode south, hotly pursued +by the English. He forded the Earn at Dalreoch, and crossed the Muir +of Auchterarder. "Ye horss was gud," but the forced pace sorely taxed +its strength; so "at ye Blackfurd" he alighted and walked. After he +had gone a mile his pursuers overtook and harassed him. They had great +advantage, being on horse, while he was on foot; yet Wallace beat back +the foremost of them, recovered his seat, and fled towards Sheriffmuir. + + "Quhil yat he cum ye myrkest mur amang,[2] + His horss gaiff our and wald no furthyr gang." + +Then, rather than let the steed fall into the hands of the enemy, + + "His houch sennownnis he cuttyt all at anys, + And left hym yus besyde ye standand stanys. + For Southrone men no guid suld off hym wyn. + In heith haddyr Wallace and yai can twyn." + + +In the year 1488, according to the Lord Treasurer's accounts, King +James IV., returning from his coronation at Scone, halted at Blackford +for refreshment:--"Item--Quhen the King cum forth to Sanct Johniston +for a barrel of Ayll at the Blackfurd, xijs." Again, on November 7, +1496, on a journey from Methven to Stirling:--"Item--That samyn day at +the Blackfurd quhaire the King baytit for corn to the horss, ii.s."; +and the same year, on the way to Perth, March 12th--"Item--Giffen at +the Blackfurde quhair the King drank as he raid by, xiiii.d." In 1498 +there is the curious entry:--"Item--xxv March, to ane woman of the +Blackfurde that brocht coppis to the King and at the Kingis command, +xiij.s. iiii.d." These "coppis," probably wooden drinking cups or +quaichs, were evidently of some value according to the reckoning of +that day. A more quaint and artistic record of this monarch's doings +was made later in Tullibardine. Pitscottie tells that in 1511 King +James IV. built "ane very great monstrous schip," called "The +Micheall." Nearly all the woods of Fife were cut down to provide the +necessary timber, in addition to that brought from Norway. A year was +spent in the building, and the cost to the King was £40,000. When +complete she was manned by 300 sailors, 120 gunners, and 1000 "men of +warre," besides officers. The dimensions of this leviathan were 240 +feet long, 36 feet broad, and the sides 10 feet thick, "so that no +cannon could doe at hir"; "and if any man believes that this schip was +not as we have schowin, latt him pas to the place of Tullibardyne +quhair he will find the breadth and length of hir sett with +hawthorne."[3] Three of these thorn trees were standing in 1837; none +of them exist now. A farmer, to improve his field, rooted them out, +and did his best to fill up the hollow representing the hull; but spite +of these obliterations, the plan of the great ship may be traced yet. + +At what date the historic ford was superseded or assisted by a bridge +we cannot tell. Some kind of primitive structure evidently existed +about the year 1700; for in 1703 the Kirk-Session Records minute that +Mr Archibald Moncrieff, the minister, caused his elders to make a +collection throughout the parish, "being that when there came rain that +did raise the waters a great many people were stopt from coming to ye +kirk, and such as came behoved to wead if they wanted horse, which was +very discouraging." Thereafter one James Waddel is commissioned "to +repair the bridge upon Allan, and he is to bring hom some great trees +from ye wood for helping ye same, and over each of ye two streams of ye +water there is to be put four trees, at least three of greater size, +and they are to be covered with fells and sand." + +In 1715, being uncomfortably near the Sheriffmuir, Blackford was +seriously disturbed. For four Sundays, between October 23d and +November 27th, the church was closed, and again for eight Sundays +between December 3rd, 1715, and February 5th, 1716. In the latter +interval, as we learn from an account preserved by the Maitland Club, +Blackford was burned to the ground by a party of Highlanders. The +minister "had stayed at home, preached and prayed for King George and +success to his arms, till he was threatened, and parties sent to seize +him from the garrisons of Tullibardine and Braco, upon which he was +forced to retire and shelter himself with some of his well affected +friends." His wife remained, however, and had the presence of mind, so +soon as she learned what had happened, to call for "a trusty servant, +and by force of money and promises prevailed with him to go to Stirling +... to give ane account to the General and other officers there what +was done and acted at Blackfoord." Such is the last eventful incident +in the secular history of the parish. + + +II. + +The Church of Blackford, beside the River Allan, was transplanted +thither after the Reformation. In former days the name of the parish +was Strageath, and the church stood by the Earn, seven miles from its +present place. The ruins of the old church are yet standing, preserved +from clean removal, doubtless, because the graveyard about them is +still in use. Strageath Church has a very ancient origin, being +founded by S. Fergus some time in the eighth century. According to the +Breviary of Aberdeen, S. Fergus, after he had been Bishop in Ireland +for many years, crossed over to Scotland with some companions and +settled in Strageath. Finding the district favourable, he set to work +and founded three churches--presumably Strageath, Struthill, and +Blairinroar. Having appointed these as he best might, and put +ministers in them, he quietly retreated to preach the word of God in +further parts.[4] + +Towards the end of the twelfth century, Gilbert, Earl of Strathearn, +founded the Abbey of Inchaffray; and in the year 1200, moved to greater +liberality by the death of a son who was buried there, he further +endowed the abbey with five churches and additional teinds. One of +these five was the Church of S. Patrick of Strageath. The gift is +confirmed in a second charter, when the Earl added four other churches +and more lands to the same abbey, and again in a charter of King +Alexander.[5] Twenty-five or thirty years later the Church of S. +Patrick was the scene of a somewhat significant ceremonial. Earl +Robert, Gilbert's son, had evidently offended against the powers +spiritual, and sought, or was brought to seek, a reconciliation. A +charter of his time records that Earl Robert, son of the aforesaid +Gilbert, in presence of Abraham, Bishop of Dunblane, Gilbert, the +archdeacon, and other notable witnesses, binds himself towards +Innocent, the abbot, that he will never in all his life vex the said +abbot or his convent unjustly, but will love and everywhere honour them +as his most special friends, and will add to the possessions of their +house whatever he may by the counsel of his friends. In particular, he +confirms to them the Churches of Gask and Strageath. The Abbey of +Inchaffray thus held the appointment to the parish of Strageath, and, +in spite of many changes, the minister of the parish still receives +part of his stipend from "the great vicarage teind of the Abbey of +Inchaffray." + +In pre-Reformation times there were two other ecclesiastical buildings +in the parish besides the Church of Strageath--Tullibardine College and +Gleneagles Chapel. The College Church of Tullibardine was founded in +1445 by Sir David Murray, who endowed it with a provost and four +prebends, thus making provision not only for the wants of the people, +but for younger sons of the family who might enter the service of the +Church. Within the church, on the west end of the wall, are seen the +arms of the founder and his lady, Dame Isabel Stewart, impaled,[6] the +three stars within the bordure for Murray, and the galley for Stewart +of Lorn, of which family this lady was a daughter. William Murray of +Tullibardine, the son and successor of Sir David, enlarged the College +of Tullibardine, and built that part where his arms and his lady's are +impaled--the three stars within the tressure for Murray, and a cross +ingrailed for Colquhoun, finely cut in stone on the outside of the +wall. The Provostry was suppressed at the Reformation, but in the +early years of the eighteenth century the Session Records frequently +mention "sermon at Tullibardine, the Earle and his lady being there at +present." Lord George Murray, though he favoured the Stewart cause, +evidently encouraged Presbyterian worship, and occasionally showed his +zeal by holding a court "for the fineing and punishing of any such +persons as should be delated and found guilty of drinking themselves +drunk or of profane swearing or Sabbath breaking or any such gross +immoralities." The church, although no longer used for worship, is +still excellently preserved, and is used as a burial-place for the +Strathallan family. + +Gleneagles Chapel is a small and unadorned building, standing near the +present mansion-house. The old lairds of Gleneagles are buried within +its walls, and the enclosed space about it has been used as a +graveyard. The Session Records have an entry showing that the chapel +was used as late as March 18, 1705--"Being that the Lady Gleneagles was +brought to bed of a child, and the laird was desirous to have his child +baptized on the Lord's Day, and was unwilling to bring him out so far +as the kirk because of the seasons being yet cold and sometimes stormy. +Therefor desired the minr. to preach at his chapel in the afternoon, +and to baptize his child, which this day ye minr. did." As far back as +1149[7] there was a church in Gleneagles under the rule of +Cambuskenneth Abbey; and, indeed, according to the most likely +derivation, Gleneagles is the Gaelic rendering of the monastic "_Vallum +Ecclesiae_"--Glen of the Church. The present chapel seems neither of +age nor consequence enough to give a title. The first church, if it +stood on the same site, must surely have been a larger building. A +mile further up the glen, however, there rises a spring of the purest +water, once believed to have virtue in curing certain diseases, and +still called S. Mungo's Well. The saintly name and the fame of healing +point to this spot as the more probable situation of the old church. + +Our only glimpse of Blackford at the Reformation shows slight +resistance on the part of some to the orders of the new church +government. On October 25, 1564, Sir Patrick Fergy--"sir" being +equivalent to the modern "reverend"--was cited before the Kirk-Session +of S. Andrews[8] as coming in place of the consistorial court, "to +underlie diciplyn for takyng upon hand to prech and minister the +sacraments withoutyn lawfull admission and for drawyng of the peopll to +the Chapell of Tullbarne frae ther Paroche Kyrk." On the same day, +"Schyr Johan Morrison efter his recantacion admittit reader in Mithyll, +was delaytit and summoned for ministration of baptisme and mariaige +efter the Papistical fasson, and that indifferently to all persones, +and also for profanacion of the sacrament of the Lordis Supper, abusyng +the sam in privat howsis, as also in the kirkyard about the kyrkyard +dykis and resavying fra ilk person that communicat ane penne, and in +speciall upon Pasche day last was, in the hows of Jhon Graham in +Pannalis he ministrat to ane hundreth personis. He oft tymmis called +nocht comperand beand of befoir divers tymmis monest to desist tharfra +under panis of excommunicacion now wordely mentis the sam to be execut +aganis hym and sa decretit to be used." + +A relic of pre-Reformation days is the old church bell, which hung till +recently in the belfry of old Blackford Church. The bell is inscribed +with the words "O Mater S.D., O Mater S.D., O Mater S.D., I.S.," and +the sign of a hammer. The thrice repeated phrase is evidently a +contraction for "O Mater Sanctissima Domini"--"O Most Holy Mother of +the Lord." + +From the Book of the Assignation of Stipends, 1574, it appears that +Strageath, Muthill, and Strowane were combined under the ministry of +Alexander Gaw at a stipend of £60 Scots and kirk-lands, while Andro +Drummond was reader at Strageath at a stipend of £20. + +In 1617, the Parish Church was changed to Blackford by Act of +Parliament:-- + +"Our Soveraine Lord and Estaittis of this present Parliament +understanding that ye kirk of the parochin of Strageth wes of auld +situat and biggit upoun the newk and utmost pairt of the said parochin +of Strageath, and the parochiners thereof found it nowayes to be meit +to be the paroche kirk of the said parochin in respect of the wyidnes +and gryit bonndis of the said parochin, they thairefore be the space of +twentye-four yeiris or thairby biggit and foundit within the town of +Blackfurde qlk lyis and is within ye middis of the said parochin, ane +new kirk for the gryit ease of the parochoneris ... thairefore ... +ordanis the samen kirk, now biggit within the said town of Blackfurde, +to be ye principal kirk of ye said parochin of Strageath in all tyme +cuming, and ordanis the haill parochoneris thairoff to resort thairto +and ressave the benefit of ye kirk thairat."[9] + + +The year 1689 brought the Revolution, and the minister, Mr David Moray, +A.M., refusing to conform with the new state of things, was deprived of +his living by the Privy Council. He retired to Edinburgh, carrying +with him the kirk bible as a memento of his ministry. When the +Kirk-Session met in 1697 "it was recommended to the minister to use his +endeavours to get the kirk bible from Mr Murray," and early in 1699 +there appears the item--"To James Brown, the carrier, for bringing home +the kirk bible out of Edenburgh from Mr David Murray, 9. 4."; and a +fortnight later--"Twopence to James Brown for compleeting his payt. for +bringing home of ye kirk bible." + +The first minister after the Revolution was Mr Archibald Moncrieff, an +admirable and faithful pastor, whose conscience forbade him to ask a +manse from the heritors for several years, during which he lived at +Stirling, and travelled to and from his work. He was succeeded in 1738 +by his son, who became Sir William Moncrieff Wellwood. In that year +the old kirk was burned in rather curious circumstances. The kirk was +being used as the parish school, and was heated by a peat fire. In the +master's absence one day the boys amused themselves by throwing about +the lighted peats. The kirk caught fire, and was burned to the ground. +Sir Henry Moncrieff succeeded his father in 1771, the sixth minister of +the family in a lineal descent. He had not finished his University +course when his father died, but the patron and parishioners waited for +him. Sir Henry was too brilliant for Blackford, however, and in 1775 +went to S. Cuthbert's, Edinburgh. The next minister, Mr John +Stevenson, evidently did not please all. Three of the elders and a +number of the congregation left the kirk. They met for some time in a +stackyard beside the old ford, and eventually, with some like-minded +ones in Auchterarder, formed the Relief congregation there. Mr +Stevenson was followed, in 1815, by Mr John Clark--a splendid type of +what was best in the reviled Moderates, an eloquent preacher, a true, +large-hearted gentleman, a keen wit, and skilful farmer, as well as a +faithful pastor. A new regime began with his worthy and lamented +successor, the Rev. David Bonallo. The kirk on the brae-head was +abandoned as insufficient and the present church, less prominent, but +more convenient, was built at the east end of the village. + + +III. + +Blackford has been the home of not a few distinguished families; but +the old castles where they lived are, without exception, the most +meagre ruins; of one, indeed (Tullibardine), not a stone remains to +mark the site. + +The chief heritor of the parish is Captain W. H. Drummond Moray of +Abercairny, whose family, though old proprietors, seem never to have +lived in the parish. Ogilvie Castle, a ruin on their lands, which +originally belonged to the Montrose family, does not appear to have +been ever occupied by the Morays. + +In the south end of the parish stands Gleneagles, which Sir David +Lyndsay, in his "Tale of Squire Meldrum," describes as "ane castell ... +beside ane mountane in ane vaill," and a "triumphand plesand place." +Gleneagles Castle was for many centuries the home of the Haldanes. +They held the neighbouring lands of Frandie by charter of William the +Lion, A.D. 1165-1214, and came into possession of Gleneagles about a +century later. From time to time we find them taking an active and +prominent part in the affairs of the kingdom. Sir John Haldane, in the +reign of King James III., became "Lord Justice-General of Scotland +benorth of the Forth"--a dignity next to that of Lord Chancellor; a +later Sir John fought and fell at Flodden; another was one of the Lords +of the Congregation. Sir John, in 1650, fell as a leader in the +Presbyterian army against Cromwell at the Battle of Dunbar. Towards +the end of the 17th century Mungo Haldane was an active member of the +Scottish Parliament; his son John was member for Perth County in the +last Scottish Parliament, and in the first British Parliament after the +Union. At the beginning of the present century the estate passed into +the hands of Viscount Duncan of Camperdown, and is now the property of +his descendant, the Earl of Camperdown. The old castle, of solid +walls, surrounded by a moat, was superseded in 1624 by the modern Place +of Gleneagles, built from the ruins. Locally, the family is best +remembered in one of its Presbyterian members, an ardent respecter of +the Sabbath. He forbade the keeping of stalls and selling of wares on +the Kirk Brae on the Lord's Day; and, finding his injunction slighted, +was so roused that he went next Sunday with drawn sword, scattered the +offending merchants down the brae, and tossed their wares into the lake +beneath. There was no more Sunday trading at the kirk. + +East of Gleneagles, overlooking its own deep wooded glen, stood +Kincardine Castle, the residence of the noble family of Graham. The +estate came to them from Malise, Earl of Strathearn, who granted it to +his sister Amabil on her marriage with Sir David Graham, c. 1250.[10] +The Grahams, as Earls, Marquises, and Dukes of Montrose, retained +Kincardine till the beginning of this century, when it was sold to +James Johnston, Esq. Many a fact and many a fancy attach to the old +Kincardine. In 1579, the Earl of Atholl, Chancellor of Scotland, +stayed at Kincardine on his way from Stirling, and suddenly took ill +and died. The crime was never absolutely proved, but evidence went far +to show that some rival had given him poisoned food at Stirling. +During the boyhood of the great Marquis, Kincardine Castle was the +principal residence of the family, and the young Lord James was a +well-known figure in the neighbourhood. When his father died in 1626, +the funeral took one month and nineteen days to accomplish; and the +accomplishment was attended with such a consumpt of good things as +makes it hard to see where room was left for mourning. When Montrose +attended the General Assembly of 1638, he sat as commissioner for the +Presbytery of Auchterarder, from which we may conclude that he was +still closely associated with Kincardine. With the great Marquis the +story of Kincardine Castle ends. In 1646, being Montrose's principal +house, it was besieged and taken by Middleton, the Covenanter. We have +a full account of the siege in Bishop Guthrie's Memoirs. Learning that +the castle was fortified with a company of foot under Lord Napier, +Middleton "brought a number of great ordnance from Sterlin Castle to +batter the walls." After ten days the besieged were distressed from +want of water. Lord Napier, guided by his page, who was a Graham, +managed to escape. The rest surrendered, twelve being shot on the +spot, and thirty-five taken prisoners to Edinburgh. "Then Middleton +ordered the Castle of Kincardine to be burnt, which was done upon the +16th day of March." + +Close by the Church of Tullibardine used to stand Tullibardine Castle. +Here lived for generations the family of Murray, who played many a part +in the changeful events of Scottish history. There was one Sir William +Murray--the builder of part of the College Church--who is chiefly +remembered as the father of seventeen stalwart sons. He took them one +day to pay court to the King at Stirling. When the King saw their +numbers he was angry, for an Act had been passed forbidding such +formidable retinues. But when the Laird of Tullibardine explained that +he brought only his sons, each with a single man attendant, the King's +anger was turned to compliment, and he forthwith gifted an addition to +the estate which grew so many men. There was a circular room in the +castle, with a pillar in the centre, where all the seventeen sons are +said to have slept--heads towards the wall, and feet at the pillar.[11] +Fully a century later there was another Sir William Murray with the +King at Stirling Castle. He so far forgot himself one day as to break +the nose of the Earl of Argyll in the King's presence, for which double +breach Sir William was exiled. But ere long the King felt need of him. +Refractory subjects would not pay the King his mails and silver marts, +and he was heard to sigh--"Oh that I had Will Murray again." The sigh +was duly conveyed to the exile, who returned, and speedily regained the +Royal favour by persuading the unwilling debtors to pay their dues. +His son, Sir John, was educated with the young King at Stirling, and +earned the title of Earl of Tullibardine in 1606. In 1670 the title +went to the Earls of Atholl. Fortune was less kind to their +descendant, better known as Lord George Murray. He took the Stewart +side in 1745, and entertained Prince Charles Edward at Tullibardine +Castle. Exile followed the disaster which overtook his cause; the old +castle, abandoned as a dwelling-place, fell into decay; and a +philistine farmer carted off the last stone of it to build field dykes. + +In a M.S. book of Sir John Ogilvy, her Master of the Household, we +learn that Queen Mary stayed at Kincardine and Tullibardine on a +journey which she made to the North in 1562. Having left Edinburgh on +August 11th, "she continued at Stirling until the 18th of August, when +she set out from thence with a part of her train, and dined and supped +at Kincardine. On the 19th she left Kincardine after dinner, and slept +at St. Johnston." On the return journey, leaving St. Johnston on the +16th November, she "slept at Tulliebarne. On the 17th she proceeded +after dinner to Drummond." Twenty years later these same castles were +again favoured with a Royal visitor, King James VI. The visit to +Tullibardine happened in August, 1584, and the motive of it was typical +of that monarch's way. Moysie's Memoirs, which chronicle the visit, +narrate that the King had been living ten days at Ruthven "or ever he +knew there wes sex houssis infectit in Perthe, his seruandis being +theare; and thairfoir with a few number the samyn nycht depairted to +Tullibardin, and from that to Sterling, leavand his haill housald and +seruandis encloisit in Ruthven." The visit to Kincardine is inferred +from a letter written by Thomas, tutor of Cassillis, to the Laird of +Barnbarroch, dated 10th October, 1585--"As for newis, it is trew my +lord arrane was to have been in Kincarne upone Saterday last, and thair +to have given his presens to the King, and the King thocht guid to stay +him thereof for the ambassadouris causs being with his majestie, sua my +lord hes nocht presentit the King as yit." + +Early in this century the estate of Tullibardine was sold to Viscount +Strathallan, who had married Amelia, daughter of the Duke of Atholl. +Tullibardine thus became attached to the adjoining estate of Machany, +long possessed by the Drummonds. The Laird of Machany and Viscount +Strathallan were united first in William Drummond of Machany, who +succeeded his cousin as fourth Viscount Strathallan. True to the +traditions of his House and title, the fourth Viscount was a loyal and +devoted Jacobite. He fought in 1715, and again in 1745, when he was +killed at Culloden. After his death the penalty of his ill-fated zeal +descended on his family. His wife Margaret, daughter of Lord Nairne, +was taken prisoner, and kept in Edinburgh Castle from February to +September, 1746; his son James, who had attended his father at +Culloden, suffered attainder, and for many years the title was +withheld. There was more caution in the character of Andrew Drummond, +brother to the fourth Viscount, who founded the Charing Cross Bank in +London. He lent large sums to the Government; but his family connexion +brought him under a suspicion of double dealing, which Sir Robert +Walpole was inclined to believe. Learning, however, that the suspicion +was unfounded, Sir Robert sought to conciliate the Drummond by warmly +offering to shake hands with him when they encountered one day in the +King's drawing-room. But Mr Andrew, proof against blandishment no less +than against suspicion, met the advance by holding his hands behind his +back. The ancestral spirit shone again in Andrew John Drummond, who +should have been seventh Viscount. He died in 1812, a General in the +British Army. The forfeited title was restored in 1824 to his cousin, +James Drummond, Esq. + + + +[1] Blind Harry's _Wallace_. Book iv., l. 309. + +For this and other references and much valuable assistance the writer +is indebted to the kindness of A. G. Reid, Esq., Auchterarder. + +[2] Ib. Bk. v., l. 293. + +[3] Lindsay of Pitscottie's _History of Scotland_. Vol., p. 256. + +[4] _Brevarium Aberdonense Pars Hyemalis_. Fol. 164. + +[5] _Liber Insule Missarum_, pp. 4, 8, 18, 19. + +[6] Nisbet's _Heraldry_. Vol. II., app. 188. + +[7] _Chartulary of Cambuskenneth_. Walcot's _Scoto Monasticon_. + +[8] _Register of Kirk-Session of S. Andrews_. _Scot. Hist. Society_. + +[9] Thomson's _Scots Acts_, IV., 556. + +[10] _Liber Insule Missarum_, p. xxxiii. + +[11] This and the anecdote about Mr Andrew Drummond are given by the +kindness of Viscountess Strathallan. + + + + +THE ABBEY OF INCHAFFRAY + +By Rev. JAMES BROWN, M.A., Maderty + +To those who appreciate time and labour expended upon historical and +antiquarian research, there can be few--if, indeed, there be any--among +our Scottish counties which present scope for their enthusiasm so +extensive and so varied as that contained within the borders of +Perthshire. Generally speaking, the attractions identify themselves. +The Cathedral at Dunblane, the Round Tower at Abernethy, the Camp at +Ardoch--these preserve still many of their original features and +characteristic lineaments, and need hardly fail to arrest attention. But +what chance traveller by road or by rail would, when midway between +Crieff and Methven, dream that the bare, solitary column he sees in the +valley below could prove other than the gable-end of a disused barn? +Nay, did he approach and pass the remnant itself, he would probably +wonder to learn that the gloomy, forsaken pile alone marks a spot once +the centre of much holy rigour, educational zeal, and industrial +activity; that thence sallied forth, six hundred years ago, the monk +patriot, with whom the Scottish warriors knelt to pray upon the field +before engaging in the memorable conflict whose issue achieved for them +their country's independence. A ragged wall, an arched chamber, several +solid heaps of fallen mason-work are all that remain of Inchaffray Abbey. + +Perthshire owes largely to the ancient Earldom of Strathearn. Little is +known concerning the line till Gilbert succeeded in 1171. Unlike his +immediate predecessors, he manifested no hostility to the inroad of +Norman and Saxon customs and usages. He was the first to adopt the wise +precaution of obtaining charters for his lands, and rivalled the most +ardent and obsequious followers of David I. in munificent gifts of these +to the Church. Although it would be hazardous to accept as altogether +faithful the statement of Fordun, the chronicler, that Earl Gilbert +apportioned his whole estates--which extended in length from Newburgh to +the west end of Balquhidder, and from the Ochils to the Grampians in +breadth--equally between the See of Dunblane, the Abbey of Inchaffray, +and himself with his heirs, we have yet sufficient reason to consider +that his liberality to ecclesiastical settlements was handsome. It +certainly reflects upon him high credit that, due to his pious devotion, +the family of Strathearn were the only Scottish subjects (excepting +possibly the Lords of Galloway) who established a bishopric and inherited +its patronage. + +About 1189 the King made over to Gilbert the lands of Maderty with all +their feudal rights and privileges. In return, the Earl bound himself to +contribute half a knight's service, and to secure that no part of these +lands should ever be allowed to come again into the hands of their former +owner, Gilliecolm Marischall, or any of his heirs. This +Gilliecolm--elsewhere described as _arch-tyrannus et latronum +princeps_--had incurred his monarch's bitter displeasure by an act of +felony, having betrayed the sovereign Castle of Earn to his Majesty's +most mortal foes, and taken part with them to do him hurt to his power. + +Not long after the transference, the Earl sought to signalise his +estimate of the Royal favour by founding a religious house. He chose for +a site the swamp-girt island which lay toward the northwestern corner of +his lately acquired possession. So frequent were the liturgical +celebrations there that the settlement received the name of _Inis +Aifreen_ (Celtic), _Insula Missarum_ (Latin), Inchaffray--signifying +"Island of Masses." He dedicated the monastery to God, St. Mary, and St. +John Evangelist; deputed Malis, the hermit, to select Augustinian Canons +from Scone, and granted his first charter, which bears the signatures of +himself, his wife (Matilda), and his six sons. The edifice must have +been completed by 1198, as Gilchrist, the heir, who died in that year, +was interred within the building. Through this bereavement, the family's +affections became more closely united to the place. "We love it so +much," the parents are recorded to have said, "that we have chosen it as +the place of sepulture for us and our heirs, and have already buried +there our eldest son." Further and more extended benefactions followed. +By the great charter, of date 1200, Inchaffray was endowed with the +Churches of St. Kattanus of Abruthven, St. Ethernanus of Maderty, St. +Patrick of Strogeath, St. Meckessok of Auchterarder, and St. Beanus of +Kinkell; with tithe of the Earl's kain and rents of wheat, meal, malt, +cheese, and all provisions throughout the year in his Court; with tithe +of all fish brought into his kitchen, and of the produce of his hunting; +with tithe of all the profits of his tribunals of justice and all +offerings; with the liberty to its monks of fishing in the Peffer, of +fishing and birding over all the Earl's lands, waters, and lakes; of +taking timber for building and other uses from his woods, and pannage or +mast feeding for pigs, as well as bark and firewood, in whatever places, +and as much as they chose. Some years later an additional charter +granted also the Church of St. Beanus of Foulis, with the dower land of +the church and the common pasturage of the parish, and likewise the +Church of the Holy Trinity of Gask, with the same privileges. To this +document appends a fragment of the donor's knightly seal, which shows on +the obverse side a mounted knight with drawn sword, and on the reverse +side the inscription--"Secretum G. comitis, de Straderne." + +Whatever may have been the demands of spiritual functions upon the time +of the monks, they cannot fairly be charged with "agricultural +indolence." Their glebe consisted entirely of marsh and bog when the +Abbacy was created. By 1218--_i.e._, in about twenty years--it had all +been ditch-drained and reclaimed. The beneficial results of their labour +are noticeable to-day. Fields immediately adjoining the ruin exhibit +quite a different appearance in spring and yield quite an appreciable +advantage in autumn compared with those more remote. No stronger +evidence need be required than that the rental of the former doubles that +of an equal area of the latter. + +The detail of the great charter includes, as we said, "the tithe of the +fines levied at the Earl's Court." Nowhere else throughout Scotland +could a subject of the King exercise _jura regalia_. Perth was our only +county, and the Earls of Strathearn our only Earls Palatine. When +precisely this independent jurisdiction was bestowed and when revoked and +abolished we have no clear account. But, according to the trustworthy +evidence embodied in the above-mentioned deed of gift, we gather not only +that the privilege existed in the thirteenth century, but that it +operated favourably for the monks. + +The source and reference of the name given to the parish has never been +satisfactorily determined. Some have attempted to connect it with the +dedication of Inchaffray. Now, whatever truth there might be in the view +that part of the dedication--"to the Virgin"--was suggested by the name +of the parish (Maderty being the English for the Celtic "mother of God"), +there is certainly nothing whatever to support the opinion that the +district took its style from the Abbey. Maderty was Maderty long before +Inchaffray was Inchaffray. + +Earl Gilbert died in 1223. Robert, his successor, maintained the like +generous attitude which his father had borne toward the Church. We may, +no doubt, feel disposed to conjecture some proof of estrangement having +marred the hitherto peaceful relations between patron and clergy. But if +such did arise, it can have been only temporary, for the very record +which excites the suspicion assures us of even more devoted loyalty on +his part. "In the Church of Strogeath, and in the presence of Abraham, +Bishop of Dunblane, and others, Robert, Earl of Strathearn, bound himself +toward the Abbot of Inchaffray that he would never in his life vex the +said abbot or his convent unjustly--nay, would love and everywhere honour +them as his most especial friends, and would add to the possessions of +their house whatsoever he might by the counsel of his friends. He +particularly confirmed to them the Churches at Gask and Strogeath." + +The year 1240 witnessed Inchaffray narrowly becoming Chapter of the +Diocese. "Clement, Bishop of Dunblane, went to Rome, and represented to +Pope Gregory IX. how of old time his bishopric had been vacant upwards of +a hundred years, during which period almost all the revenues had been +seized by the seculars; and although in process of time there had been +several bishops instituted, yet, by their simplicity or negligence, the +former dilapidations were not recovered, but, on the contrary, the +remainder were almost quite alienated; so that for ten years a proper +person could not be found to accept of the charge; that the case having +been laid before the Pope, he had committed the trust of supplying that +vacancy to the Bishops of St. Andrews, Dunkeld, and Brechin, who made +choice of this Clement; but he found his church so desolate that he had +not where to lay his head in his cathedral. There was no college there, +only a rural chaplain performed divine service in the church that had its +roof uncovered; and the revenues of the See were so small that they could +hardly afford him maintenance for one half of the year. To remedy these +evils the Pope appointed William and Geoffrey, the Bishops of Glasgow and +Dunkeld, to visit the Church of Dunblane, and if they should find these +things to be as represented, he authorised them to cause the fourth part +of the tithes of all the parish churches within that diocy to be assigned +to the bishop thereof, who, after reserving out of these tithes so much +as should be proper for his own sustenance, was by the advice of these +two bishops and other expert persons to assign the rest to a dean and +canons whom the Pope enjoined to be settled there, if these matters could +be brought about without great offence; or, if otherwise, he ordered that +the fourth of the tithes of all such churches of the diocy as were in the +hands of seculars should be assigned to the bishop, and that the bishop's +seat should be translated to St. John's Monastery of Canons-regular, +(_i.e._, Inchaffray), within that diocy, and appointed that these canons +should have the election of the bishop when a vacancy should happen +thereafter." Either "these things were found to be not so," or else the +former part of the alternative was duly carried out, as the bishop's seat +remained at Dunblane, and Inchaffray was denied its only opportunity of +elevation to cathedral rank. + +[Illustration: Inchaffray] + +The next event of interest connected with the Abbey is the pilgrimage of +the Abbot Maurice to Bannockburn. Every schoolboy can tell the story, +for no annals of Scotland omit to record his presence and service when +the rival hosts stood face to face for a huge trial of strength and +valour. But probably it is not quite so well understood that much of the +glorious success which crowned the Scottish arms was popularly attributed +to the fact that the monk carried with him the arm of St. Fillan. A +legend is that St. Fillan, when Abbot of Pittenweem, transcribed with his +own hand the Holy Scriptures, and that his left arm became so luminous +that it enabled him to proceed during darkness with his pious work. +Lesly asserts that this wonderful limb afterwards came into the +possession of Robert Bruce, who enclosed it in a silver shrine, which he +commanded should be borne at the head of the army. Previous to the +battle, a story has it, the King's chaplain (Maurice), with the view of +preserving the treasure from all chance of abstraction by the English, +had it removed and deposited in a place of security. While, however, the +King, unaware of what had been done, was addressing his prayers to the +empty casket, it was observed to open and shut suddenly. On inspection, +the Saint was found to have himself returned his luminous member to its +place as an assurance of victory. The writers of the Statistical Account +of Maderty thus express themselves--"This relic might, indeed, have given +some encouragement to the superstitious; but one arm of a brave Scotchman +fighting in earnest for the liberty of his country had more effect in +obtaining that memorable victory than could have been produced by the +innate virtue of all the relics of the dead that could have been +collected." If these critical authors had been less anxious to square +truth with orthodoxy, and not orthodoxy with truth, they would have known +that where the entire force was "superstitious" the influence of the +sacred arm would enormously intensify soldierly enthusiasm, and that it +is impossible to define its comparative share in the result. Robert +Bruce, indeed, appears to have been sensibly impressed by the good +offices of the sacred relic, and attested his gratitude in a substantial +manner. He founded a priory at Strathfillan, on the Dochart, a stream in +the Breadalbane district of Perthshire, and consecrated it to the Saint. +At the dissolution of religious houses this priory with all its revenues +and superiorities passed, by order of the King, to Campbell of Glenorchy, +ancestor of the Lords of Breadalbane. Maurice's conduct on the field +attracted the attention of others besides Bruce. Macleod of Scarinche, +in Lewis, conceived a strong regard for the Abbot, and induced him to +reside for a time at his western home, where he erected a monastery to +St. Kattanus, whose bones lay buried there. Strathfillan, Scarinche, and +Abernethy were cells of Inchaffray. + +The Earls continued successively to be bountiful benefactors of the +convent. One of them, Malise, in 1258, presented it with certain of his +slaves (_nativi_)--namely, Gilmory, Gillendes, and John Starnes, the son +of Thomas and grandson of Thore. Absolute serfdom was then a Scottish +institution, comprising part of the labouring class, who were bought and +sold with the land to which they were attached; and gifts of nativi by +their masters to the religious establishments of those times are +frequently recorded. + +After the ancient line of Strathearn had failed in the direct male +descent, and when Maurice de Moray, created Earl by David II., had met +his death at Durham in 1346, leaving no issue, the King bestowed the +Earldom upon his nephew, Robert, the High Steward, afterwards Robert II., +who on his accession to the throne (1370) relinquished the Earldom in +favour of his son David. Seventy years later the title and estates fell +vacant and were merged in the Crown, the bishopric and temporalities +being henceforth held in free barony of the Sovereign. + +The intimate association of Inchaffray Abbey with the national and +religious fortunes of Scotland receives further guarantee in 1513. +Whether as chaplain or as common soldier, and under what designation, no +available narrative declares. But certain it is that the stubborn fight +which evoked Scotland's most waefu' dirge, no less than that which +occasioned her immortal paean of victory, was graced by an abbot of this +monastery. The respective fates of these two divines, however, were +widely different. Not even monks, clad though they be in all the panoply +of the Church, are safe from sword or arrow. He of Flodden never saw his +northern charge again. Unknown, yet not unwept, he fell beneath the +spoiler's weapon with the "flowers of the forest." + +It is noteworthy that Abbots of Inchaffray, _ex-officio_ prelates of +Parliament, took little to do with public affairs. They do not seem to +have shared at all extensively in the transactions which so often brought +together the leaders of the various religious houses. + +The subjoined list is fragmentary, but authoritative so far as it goes:-- + +MALIS--The Hermit--was present and acted as the head of the establishment +at the beginning. Earl Gilbert must have considered him a person of +trust, since he committed to him the important duty of selecting the +necessary canons. + +INNOCENT--The first Abbot--officiated during the lordship of Robert, +1223-1231. + +ALAN--1258-1271. + +HUGH--1284. + +THOMAS--1296. + +MAURICE--The Bannockburn celebrity--was promoted to the See of his own +Diocese of Dunblane. Early in his Episcopate a dispute which arose +concerning the lands of Airthrey was submitted to arbiters, one of whom +was his successor in the Abbacy of Inchaffray, viz.: + +CHRISTIAN. + +WILLIAM appears to have acted for an unusually long term, or had a +successor of the same name. On the Feast of Matthias, 1398, a deed of +Janet Moray, wife of Alexander Moray of Abercairny, was witnessed by +William the Abbot, John the prior, and the whole Convent of Inchaffray. +On 25th January, 1468, + +GEORGE obliged himself to make Lawrence, Lord Oliphant, his bailie for +life of the lands of the monastery within twenty days after he should be +admitted to the spirituality by the ordinary and by the King to the +temporality of the said benefice. The family of Oliphant held this +relation during the reign of James V., Mary, and James VI. In 1539, + +GAVIN DUNBAR, Archbishop of Glasgow, had the Abbacy _in commendam_. On +15th May of that year he granted Anthony Murray a tack of 4 merk lands of +the "Raith" "for furnishing of our bulls"--probably for the expense of +his confirmation. Before the tack had run out the tenure was made +perpetual by a free charter of the same lands of "Raith" and of the Moor +of Maderty, granted by + +ALEXANDER, styled Archbishop of Athens, postulate of the Isles, and +perpetual commendator of the Monastery of Inchaffray, dated at +Inchaffray, December 24th, 1554. This commendator was Alexander Gordon +(brother of George, fourth Earl of Huntly), who was defeated in his hopes +of the Archbishopric of Glasgow on the death of Gavin Dunbar, and +imperfectly consoled by the high-sounding title of Archbishop of Athens +_in partibus fidelium_, the poor See of the Isles, with, on November +26th, 1553, the Abbacy of Inchaffray _in commendam_, which last he held +till 1564. In 1558 he was promoted to the See of Galloway. Nine years +later he was accused before the General Assembly of the Kirk, and +confessed to the indictment that he had not visited for three years part +of the churches within his charge; that he had haunted Court too much; +that he had purchased to be one of the Session and Privy Council, which +cannot agree with the office of a pastor or a bishop; that he had +resigned Inchaffray in favour of a young child, and set diverse lands in +feu in prejudice of the Kirk. The young child was James Drummond of +Innerpeffray, second son of David, second Lord Drummond. The Abbey was +erected into a temporal lordship in his favour, and in 1609 he was +created Lord Maderty. From him is descended the noble family of +Strathallan. + + +And now the old Abbey fell on troublous times. The Reformation--that +harbinger of good not unmixed with evil--closed the book of the +monastery. It is strange and sad that ecclesiastical changes should +partake so largely in the destruction of buildings and the spoliation of +belongings. Never yet did religious fanaticism satisfy its own desires +without simultaneously and obligingly ministering to the rapacity of the +attendant greedy grabber. And so Inchaffray, experiencing the fate of +other such establishments, had its walls torn down, its vessels strewn +and broken, its canons put to flight or death, its revenues disposed by +rude, regardless hands. The Earl of Kinnoull is the proprietor of the +ruin and the few acres that surround it. These gave him the patronage of +the seven parishes with which, we observed, the convent had been endowed. + +Quite a crop of stories are told in connection with the demolition of +Inchaffray. It is said, for instance, that long ago the ploughman-tenant +of the dwelling contiguous to the convent discovered, while digging, the +golden image "of a sow." This relic (for relic it was supposed to be of +the abbey practices) he carefully secreted, but latterly converted into +current coin, and became himself a very wealthy man. But perhaps the +most reliable and authenticated is the following:--A Fowlis widower, +lately bereaved, sought to find a grave-stone to honour his spouse's +memory. Either he was too fastidious or too ungenerous, but he +abstracted from Inchaffray a stone to be utilised for this solemn +purpose. The writer quite lately identified the stone as the lid of the +coffin of Abbot Maurice. There is the figure of a battle-axe engraved +upon the slab. + +And now we return to the point from which we started. All that the +passer-by can see of this object is a chimney-crowned gable. Nearer +approach shows an arched chamber. But the whole history of an +interesting past appears to be covered with debris. It is impossible to +fancy the feelings of Abbot or Earl were he to rise from his tomb and +hear to what uses the fabric of his cherished house was being devoted. +Pig-styes, barn-walls, fences--these comprise the objects to which the +"holy stones" are set. _O tempora, O mores_. + +If these words should meet the eye of antiquarian enthusiasts, and should +happen to stir within them the desire of research, a welcome and a +courteous lodging will be found at the Manse of Maderty. + + + + +A SOUTHERN OUTPOST ON THE EDGE OF THE HIGHLANDS + +By Rev. HUGH M. JAMIESON, Monzie + +Monzie--a southern outpost on the edge of the Highlands--is said to +derived from the Gaelic _Moeghe_, signifying "a good plain." It is a +long, narrow, irregular parish, extending for nearly twelve miles up +both sides of the River Almond, until it touches, on the north, the +parishes of Dull, Weem, and Kenmore. + +The vale of Monzie--the southern boundary of the parish--where stands +the church, the hamlet, and the Castle of Monzie, extends for nearly +three miles in a north-east direction, gradually rising to the height +of several hundred feet. The most striking peculiarity of the +surroundings of Monzie is the combination of wild and mountainous +scenery with cultivation and picturesqueness. One of the finest views +in the whole of Strathearn can be had from the Highland Road, to the +east of the church. In the foreground are the luxuriant woods, the +rich pastures, and the Castle of Monzie, and at a distance of seven or +eight miles is the Aberuchill range, towering in majesty on the +horizon, with the giant Ben Voirlich just visible over their heads. A +little to the left is Turleum--a conical-shaped hill of respectable +altitude; while Benchonzie and other off-shoots of the Grampians bound +the view on the north. The general effect is exceedingly beautiful, +and the mingling, within a short distance, of the sublime and the +picturesque is probably not surpassed anywhere in Scotland. + +There are three streams rising in the hills to the north that find +their way into the vale. The Barvick, which runs for three or four +miles along the western boundary of the parish, descends rapidly with +leaps and bounds into a deep and rocky dell, until it terminates in the +fall known as Spout Barvick. The Keltic, rising in the hills some four +miles to the north, enters a rocky ravine fully a mile up from the +turnpike road, and tumbling precipitously down a height of eighty feet +it reaches the vale, skirts the castle grounds, and, joining the +Shaggie, falls along with it into the Turret. The third stream--the +Shaggie--rises to the north-east of the Keltie, and, threading its way +for three miles between lofty banks covered with wood, it passes the +village, and pursues its course beneath the old ivy-crowned Roman +bridge, through the castle parks, until it becomes lost in the Turret. + +The neighbourhood is peculiarly rich in trees. On the lawn behind +Monzie Castle are three of five famous larches planted in the year +1738--the fourth one fell during the November gale of 1893. They rival +those of the Duke of Athole at Dunkeld. There is a tradition that the +Duke's gardener, on his way home with the seed, was hospitably +entertained at Monzie, and planted them in remembrance of his visit. +The gardener was sent annually to observe their growth and report to +his master. "When this functionary returned and made his wonted +report, that the larches at Monzie were leaving those of Dunkeld behind +in the race, his Grace would jocularly allege that his servant had +permitted General Campbell's good cheer to impair his powers of +observation."[1] Altogether, the district is beautifully and +bountifully wooded, and many a laird gathered to his fathers must have +laid to heart some such advice as the laird of Dumbiedykes gave to his +son--"Jock, when ye hae naething else tae dae, ye may be aye stickin' +in a tree; it will be growin', Jock, when ye're sleepin'." + +The valley of the Almond runs parallel to the vale of Monzie. Leaving +the manse, and passing the church and the school, the Keppoch Road +joins the road to Glenalmond, and after a walk of fully two miles the +traveller finds himself at the entrance to what is known as the Sma' +Glen--a romantic pass, stretching along the sides of the Almond for a +distance of fully two miles. Standing half-way up the glen on a +summer's day, looking northwards, the scenery is magnificent. Here, +from the mountain's brow rushes a foaming stream; there, a clump of +trees dressed in the most luxuriant green; here, mountains towering +bleak and wild; there, a few spots of verdure growing amid the rocks; +behind, the swift, pellucid Almond water; before, hills stretching on +and on till they are lost in the azure sky. + +The banks of the Almond along the vale are associated with much +romance. Some time in the last century there lived at Corrivarlich a +noted sheep-stealer named Alastair Bane. Little is known of his +boyhood. He was supposed to have been brought to the district by +Highlanders who were in the habit of bringing to Crieff cartloads of +split pine from Rannoch Forest, which they sold to riddle-makers to +make riddle rims. During one of those visits the child is supposed to +have been left. He was called Alastair, owing to his supposed Highland +descent, and Bane, because of his white hair. As he grew up to manhood +he showed symptoms of a wandering disposition, and went frequently to +Amulree and Falkirk, acting in the capacity of a drover. While +pursuing this occupation he became acquainted with many of the +ferocious caterans who were at that time following the same calling. +How long Alastair continued a drover is not chronicled in oral +tradition. After a time he associated himself with a band of +bare-legged mountaineers, sixty in number, who located themselves under +his leadership in a cave in the glen, to the great terror and annoyance +of the district. It is said that the last combined effort of the band +at cattle-lifting was at a farm situated in the moor between +Fowlis-Wester and Buchanty. On this occasion dissension broke out +amongst the thieves, which ultimately ended in the breaking up of the +band. That Alastair Bane had his dwelling-place among the rocks in +Wester Glenalmond was well known, but every effort to discover its +whereabouts was in vain, until one night a shepherd, wandering on the +hills, chanced to see a light shining through a crevice in the rocks. +Creeping cautiously forward and peering through the opening, he +observed the formidable thief sitting on the floor, amusing himself +with an old fiddle and singing-- + + "Many a cow has lost her calf, many a sheep her lamb, + But I'll sit on a stane, and sing at my den-- + The thief of Glenalmond will never be ta'en." + +He was taken, however, and paid the full penalty of the law at +Perth--hanging for sheep-stealing being in practice at that date. When +on the scaffold he prophesied that "the water o' Almond runs ower mony +a stane, but it'll ne'er run twa years withoot takin' ane." The +prophecy has reference to the number of people drowned in the river, +which is remarkable for the impetuosity of its floods. + +At Fendoch--the entrance to the Sma' Glen--we tread on historical +ground. Here, at Tom-an-Die--"Hill of God"--there is no reason to +doubt, was one of the chief stations of the Romans, a standing camp, +formed, not for a halt of a few days, but to be occupied for a +considerable time. It was formed by Agricola in the year 84 A.D., in +his seventh and last campaign, probably a little before the Battle of +Mons Grampius. It had many advantages of situation, and we may well +believe that it continued to be occupied by the Romans so long as they +had possession of North Britain;--by Lollius Urbicus, who in the next +century anew drove back the Caledonians to their fastnesses beyond the +Grampians; and by the Emperor Severus in the beginning of the third +century. So distinct were the traces of the camp in the year 1795, +when the first Statistical Account of the parish was written, as to +admit of its being measured. At that time the trenches were entire, +and in some places six feet deep; but both rampart and trenches have +disappeared under the operation of the plough. Though the camp covered +upwards of fifty acres, nothing can now be seen but a small piece of +breast-work facing the Almond. + +At the mouth of the Sma' Glen there is a round +knoll--Tom-an-Tighe--"the House of the Hill"--where Fingal, the father +of Ossian, is said to have dwelt until his house was destroyed by Gara. +The place is called Fendoch, a corruption of Finn-Tighe--"Finn's +House." When Fendoch was burnt, Fingal built a fort on the summit of +Dunmore, on the east side of the glen, where he and his father, Comhal, +are said to be buried. The remains of this fort, still visible, show +it to have been a place of retreat almost impregnable. That Comhal, +his son, and grandson lived in the parish, the etymology of the place +can scarcely leave a doubt. Not only have we Fingal's house, but on +the moor contiguous to Fendoch we have Cairn-Comhal--"the cairn over +the grave of Comhal"; while at Cultoquhey we have a camp called in +Gaelic Comhal Cults--that is, "Comhal's battle"; and it is worthy of +note that, towards the close of last century, some urns with ashes in +them were dug up in this locality. + +In the centre of the glen stands Clach-na-Ossian--"Ossian's +Stone"--which tradition held to cover the mortal remains of Scotia's +early bard. When the Government troops under General Wade were engaged +in carrying a highway through the glen, they found it necessary to +shift the position of Ossian's Stone. The detailed narrative of what +took place is as follows:-- + +"I have so lately mentioned Glenalmond, in the road from Crieff, +northward, that I cannot forbear a digression, though at my first +setting out, in relation to a piece of antiquity which happened to be +discovered in that vale, not many hours before I went through it in one +of my journeys southwards. + +"A small part of the way through this glen having been marked out by +two rows of camp-colours, placed at a good distance one from another, +whereby to describe the line of the intended breadth and regularity of +the road by the eye, there happened to lie directly in the way an +exceedingly large stone, and, as it had been made a rule from the +beginning to carry on the roads in straight lines, as far as the way +would permit, not only to give them a better air, but to shorten the +passenger's journey, it was resolved that the stone should be removed, +if possible, although otherwise the work might have been carried along +on either side of it. + +"The soldiers, by vast labour, with their levers and jacks, or +hand-screws, tumbled it over and over till they got it quite out of the +way, although it was of such an enormous size that it might be matter +of great wonder how it could ever be removed by human strength and art, +especially to such who had never seen an operation of that kind; and +upon their digging a little into that part of the ground where the +centre of the stone had stood, there was found a small cavity, about +two feet square, which was guarded from the outward earth, at the +bottom, top, and sides, by square flat stones."[2] + + +"The people of the country," says Newte, who travelled through the +district in 1791, "venerating the memory of the bard, rose with one +consent, and with bagpipe music carried the sacred dust away by force, +and buried it on the top of Dunmore, in the centre of his father's +fort." Burns visited Ossian's grave. Writing to his brother, on his +return to Edinburgh from the North, he says--"Being warm from Ossian's +country, where I have seen his very grave, what care I for fertile +plains and fishing villages?" Whether the dust of Ossian slumbers +amidst these mountains or within this glen no one can say--we have but +dim tradition to guide us; but surely no spot seems more suitable for +the resting-place of the Caledonian bard. No monument is erected to +perpetuate his memory, nor speaking stone whispers to each passer-by in +the language of Wordsworth-- + + "In this still place remote from men + Sleeps Ossian in the narrow glen"; + +but it is surrounded by mountains torn and thunder-split, and it is +laved by a stream as pellucid as his own Cona, which ever sings as it +flows the lonely dirge of the bard who sang of battles and the breath +of stormy war. "We feel a pride," says Fittis, writing of Ossian's +tomb, "we feel a pride in cherishing the thought that the hoary bard's +pilgrimage closed in Perthshire's 'narrow glen,' where the murmuring +Almond sang his requiem, and that his ashes still rest not far from the +banks of the stream." + +Innerpeffray, annexed _quoad civilia_ to the parish of Monzie about the +beginning of the seventeenth century, is one of its historic scenes. +It derives its name from the Pow--a small stream which joins the Earn +near this place. Inner-Powfray signifies the junction of two rivers. +The name Powfray was given to it when the marshy grounds around the +Abbey of Inchaffray were cut and drained, after the Battle of +Bannockburn, by order of King Robert the Bruce, for the services of +Maurice, Abbot of Inchaffray. In process of time "Powfray," or +"Innerpowfray," became merged into "Innerpeffray," the name by which it +has been known for many generations. + +The first laird of Innerpeffray was Sir John Drummond. The lands were +bequeathed to him by his father as his patrimony, and in 1508 he +founded here a collegiate church, which he endowed with a revenue +sufficient to maintain a provost and prebend. The ruins of the chapel, +dedicated to Saint Mary, mentioned as early as 1342, are still to be +seen. The chapel has one feature not observed in any ecclesiastical +edifice--what is termed "a squint"--an oblique opening in the wall to +allow those who were late in attendance to hear mass without attracting +the attention of the officiating priest. Few traces of ornament are to +be seen on the building, but at the eastern gable there is a niche in +which a half life-size figure of the Saint may have been placed. The +chapel was an off-shoot of the Abbey of Inchaffray, and part of it has +been used for generations as the burial-place of the Earls of Perth. + +Robert Mercer, the third laird of Innerpeffray, granted to the Abbot +and Convent of Inchaffray the right to fish for eels in the water at +Polpefery, within the lordship of Dullory. Eels, it appears, formed a +favourite article of food among all classes of the people. During the +season of Lent the monastic establishments throughout the country +consumed large quantities. The fish were captured principally by means +of weirs, the eel-skins being used for making bindings to flails. The +licence to the Abbey of Inchaffray is dated 1454, and is as follows:-- + +"To all who shall see or hear this charter, Robert Mercer of +Innerpeffry wishes eternal salvation in the Lord. Be it known to your +University that I, not led by force or by fear, nor fallen in error, +but determined by my pure and spontaneous will, with consent and assent +of Alexander Mercer, my heir, and with consent and assent of Andrew +Mercer of Inchbrakie, are pledged for a certain sum of money, have +given, granted, and by this my present charter have confirmed, in +perpetual and pure charity, for the honour of Almighty God, and the +glorious Virgin Mary, and the blessed John the Evangelist, for the +salvation of my soul, and of the soul of Janet, my spouse, and that of +Alexander, my heir aforesaid, and of all my successors, to the Abbot +and Convent of Inchaffray, and their successors, serving, or that shall +in future serve God in that place, entire liberty and perpetual licence +of fishing, by means of enclosures, nets, or whatever instruments are +necessary for catching eels and other fishes.... In witness whereof +the seal of me, Robert Mercer, and the seal of Andrew Mercer, my uncle, +are appended to my present charter, before these witnesses, Tristram of +Gorty, John Quhyston, Alexander Cardeny, William Bonar of Kelty, +Alexander Sharp of Strathy, an John Crab, shield-bearer, with many +others, on the twenty-fourth day of the month of June, in the year of +our Lord one thousand four hundred and fifty-four."[3] + + +The Library of Innerpeffray was founded by David, third Lord Madertie, +whose family is now represented by Viscount Strathallan. Lord +Madertie's grandfather, James Drummond, was the second son of David, +Lord Drummond, and was created Lord Madertie on 31st January, 1609. He +was educated along with James VI., and was esteemed by that monarch as +"a man of parts and learning," and became a special favourite of the +Court. By his marriage with Jean, daughter of Sir James Chisholm of +Cromlix, he obtained the Barony of Innerpeffray, which had been his +mother's portion, and at his death, in 1623, his eldest son, John, +succeeded to the title. John was married to Helen Leslie, eldest +daughter of Patrick, Commendator of Lindores; and David Drummond, the +founder of the Library, was their eldest son. His second wife was Lady +Beatrix Graham, sister of the great Marquis of Montrose, and the +intimate relationship betwixt the families accounts no doubt for the +existence of several volumes that belonged to Montrose, which are now +in the Library. + +The Library was intended for the benefit of students, and any other +persons in the district possessed of a literary turn of mind, or having +a thirst for knowledge. By his will, dated 1680, David, third Lord +Madertie, bequeathed the half of 6000 merks to be employed by Lord John +Carmichael and John Haldane of Gleneagles for the maintenance of a +library and schoolhouse which he had erected at the Chapel of +Innerpeffray. The sum conveyed was in a heritable bond, which made the +bequest inept; but in 1691 the nephew and heir of Lord Madertie +executed a deed of mortification, having for its object the vesting of +5000 merks for the encouragement of learning and the good of the +country; "and as a constant and perpetual stock for the preserving of +the said library and maintaining a keeper and schoolmaster, and for +augmenting the library and building a house; but under reservation of +his rights and those of his successors to nominate the librarian and +schoolmaster."[4] The endowment covered a school and library, but +under the new scheme, instituted in 1888, the school has been taken +over by Muthill School Board, and the present trustees are empowered, +after paying £15 per annum for the maintenance of the school and the +expenses of the trust, to pay over the remainder of the income, and to +transfer the library to any town or village within five miles of +Innerpeffray. + +The Library is particularly rich in old Bibles. The oldest one in the +collection, and one having a special interest of its own, is dated +1530. It is in black-letter French, the translation being by St. +Jerome. It is a large folio copy, and contains initial letter +illustrations and pictorial woodcuts, the title-page being in red and +black ink. There is also a copy of what is popularly known as the +Treacle Bible, so called because of the rendering given to the passage +in Jeremiah viii. 22--"Is there not tryacle at Gylyad?" Two other +peculiarities deserve passing notice. The seventh commandment +reads--"Thou shalt not break wedlocke"; and Genesis xxxix. 2--"And God +was with Joseph, and he became a lucky man." One of the smallest +Bibles in the collection is one that is said to have been carried about +by the Marquis of Montrose. It bears his autograph in more than one +place, written in a bold plain hand. It seems to have been lost for a +number of years, and only turned up after a more careful supervision +was exercised. It was printed in the French language at Sedan in the +year 1633. There are quite a number of mottoes or extracts copied by +the Marquis himself on the leaves of the Bible, taken from classical +authors, showing that the book was one for close companionship. Three +of these extracts freely translated may be here transcribed. The first +is--"Honour to me is better than life"; the second, "Though the +shattered universe o'erwhelm him, the ruins should find him +untrembling"; and the third, under a pen-and-ink sketch of a mountain +and a rose, "Roses grow not without thorns." Of psalm-books there are +several very interesting examples. The oldest of these is an edition +of Marot and Beza's Psalms, dated 1567, and having music set to many of +the Psalms in staff and sol-fa notation. This copy is believed to be +unique. It contains a great number of prayers. The volume of +translations and paraphrases of the Psalms, which was published in 1630 +as the work of James VI., is to be found in this collection. It is +entitled "The Psalms of King David, translated by King James." It has +portraits of King David on one side of the title-page and that of King +James on the other--one of the portraits being, of course, apocryphal. +Of prayer-books there is a copy of the "Booke of Common Prayer," +printed by Barker in 1604; and also a copy of the book known as John +Knox's "Confession and Declaration of Prayers," which was printed in +1554, and which lately gave rise to considerable discussion as to +whether the early Reformed Church in Scotland used a liturgy. The +oldest printed book in the Library is a copy of Barclay's "Ship of +Fools," the date being 1508. Next in point of value as a specimen of +typography is the famous Paris edition of Hector Boece's "Chronicles," +printed in 1527; and of as much interest is the edition of Bellenden's +translation of this work, printed by Thomas Davidson, of Edinburgh, in +1536. There is a specimen of early English printing shown in Fayban's +"Chronicle," the copy at Innerpeffray being the extremely scarce first +edition of 1533. The first edition of Holinshed's "Chronicles of +Englande, Scotlande, and Ireland," which was printed in 1577; is also +to be found here in good condition. Amongst other notable books may be +mentioned:--"The AEneid," by Gavin Douglas, 1533; Bishop Lesley's +"History of Scotland," in the original Latin, printed at Rome, 1578; +Drummond of Hawthornden's "Flowres of Sion," 1630; the same author's +"History of the Five Jameses," 1654; and also his "Miscellaneous +Poems," 1656; Drayton's "Polyolbion"; Dr Donne's "Elegies"; Stowe's +"Chronicles," 1580; Hitchcock's "Quintessence of Wit," 1590; John +Major's "De Gestis Scotorum," 1536; Bacon's "Essays," 1639; and the +first edition of Burton's "Anatomy of Melancholy." Students of warfare +will find much to interest them in some of the military books of the +sixteenth and seventeenth centuries--one of these especially, printed +in the German language in 1620, being the work of John Jacobi von +Wollhausen, and entitled _Kreigskunst_. It contains engravings showing +the mode of pike exercise and the method of drill adopted for the +management of the musket with rest and linstock as then used. Amongst +the law books are numerous volumes of decisions by Kilkerran, Forbes, +Durie, Dirleton, Maclaurin, and others; as well as textbooks on law by +Grotius, Montesquien, Duffendorf, and other well-known writers. + +Monzie is best known in connection with the burning of a witch. The +traditionary story makes out Kate M'Niven to have been a nurse in the +family of the Grammes of Inchbrakie, and as a proof that she was a +member of the weird sisterhood, a story is told of her in connection +with a visit which the Laird of Inchbrakie made to Dunning on the +occasion of some festivity. According to the fashion of the time, he +took with him his knife and fork. After he was seated at the dinner +table he was subjected to annoyance similar to that which teased Uncle +Toby--namely, the hovering of a bee about his head. To relieve himself +from the tiny tormentor, he laid down his knife and fork, and attempted +to beat off the insect with his hands. It soon flew out at the window; +but behold! the laird's knife and fork had disappeared. They were +searched for all over the table, and under the table; nowhere could +they be found; but when their owner reached home and recounted his +mysterious loss, Kate M'Niven, who was present, straightway went and +produced both articles safe and sound from their accustomed repository. +It was whispered that Kate had personated the bee. + +Relieved of her duties in the house of Inchbrakie--as the result, it is +said, of an attempt to poison the young laird--Kate M'Niven returned to +her old home at the Kirkton of Monzie, where she acquired an "uncanny" +reputation. Evidence of her sorceries was collected or suborned, and +through the machinations of the young laird of Inchbrakie, she was +apprehended and brought to trial on a charge of witchcraft, and her +guilt being conclusively established, sentence of death was pronounced +against her. The stake was pitched and the faggots piled on the summit +of the Knock of Crieff, and thither was the sorceress dragged, to +suffer in presence of an immense multitude gathered from all the +surrounding country. + + "From Fowlis and Logiealmond, even from Perth, + The rabble-multitude poured thick and fast, + Until it seemed as if the conscious earth + Believed this spectacle might be the last + Of fire and faggot she would e'er behold, + Lighted by _legal cruelty and crime_. + For never did such hosts of young and old, + Of tottering crones, and women in their prime, + Of high and low, of poor men and of rich, + Assemble at the burning of a witch."[5] + + +The Inchbrakie family tradition is much more reliable than the +traditionary story as related by Dr. Marshall and Rev. Mr Blair. +Writing under date November 25, 1895, Miss L Graeme says:--"My mother +was the wife of the second son of Inchbrakie, and I have over and over +again heard her relate how, on her home-coming as a bride, my +grandfather on one occasion told her the story. He spoke of Monzie +having brought a witch to the notice of the authorities. She was being +burnt on the Knock of Crieff, above Monzie, when the Inchbrakie of the +day,[6] riding past, did all in his power to try and prevent the matter +from being concluded, without avail. Just as the pile was being lit +she bit a blue bead from off her necklet, and spitting it at +Inchbrakie, bade him guard it carefully, for so long as it was kept at +Inchbrakie the lands should pass from father to son. Kate then cursed +the Laird of Monzie. + +"My grandfather had the ring[7] carefully kept in a casket, and his own +daughter was not allowed to touch it--only the daughters-in-law. On my +mother presenting my grandfather with his first grandson, he bade her +slip it on her finger, as the mother of an heir. Nearly forty years +after, when I was a young girl, I well remember my mother's horror and +dismay when my cousin Patrick--the head of the family--after his +majority, opened at our house a box of papers which, during the +family's absence abroad, had been left in my mother's care; for there +was the ring in which the stone was set--no longer guarded within the +walls of Inchbrakie. A few years after this the first acres of the old +Barony of Inchbrakie and Aberuthven were sold; now there is not one of +them left. + +"The ring is still retained among the family papers--such, at least, as +were left after the burning of the castle by Cromwell. It is a +moonstone sapphire, set in two brilliants of different shape. There is +a curious bluish enamel on part of the gold, which is embossed half-way +round. There is also a charm, which is said to have belonged to Kate +M'Niven. It is a slight iron chain with a black heart, having two +cross bones in gold on the back, bearing the words 'cruelle death' on +it, and attached to it a death's-head in the shape of a serpent's head +with curious enamel." + +The first statute in Scotland against witchcraft was passed in the year +1563, during the reign of Queen Mary, and is here inserted as a sample +of the simple and concise enactments which were passed in these days:-- + + "Queen Marie--Ninth Parliment + IV. of June, 1563. + 73. Anentis Witchcraftes. + +Item--For sa meikle as the Queen's Majesty, and the three estates in +this present Parliament, being informed that the heavie and abominable +superstition used by divers of the lieges of this realm, by using of +witchcrafts, sorcerie, and necromancie, and credence given thereto in +times by-gone, against the law of God; and for avoiding and +away-putting of all such vain superstition in times to come, it is +statute, and ordained by the Queen's Majesty, and the three estates +aforesaid--that no manner of persone or persones, of what-sum-ever +estait, degree, or condition they be of, take upon hand in onie times +hereafter to use onie manner of witchcraft, sorcerie, or necromancie, +nor give themselves forth to have onie such craft or knowledge thereof, +their-throw abusan the people; nor that onie persone seek onie help, +response, or consultation at onie such users or abusers foresaid, of +witchcraft, sorcerie, or necromancie, under the pain of death, as well +to be execute against the user, abuser, as the seeker of the response +or consultation. And this is to be put in execution by the justice, +sheriffs, stewards, bailies, lords of regalites and royalties, their +deputies, and other ordinary judges competent within this realm, with +all vigour, and they have power to execute the same."[8] + + +That Kate Nike Neiving--not M'Niven, as her name is generally +pronounced--was among the first to suffer as the result of the passing +of this statute, is clearly proved by referring to the case of John +Brughe, the notorious Glendevon wizard, who was tried at Edinburgh on +November 24th, 1643, for practising sorcery and other unholy arts. It +was alleged against him that he had obtained his knowledge "from a +wedow woman, named Neane Nikclerith, of threescoir years of age, quha +wis sister dochter to Nike Neveing, that notorious infamous witche in +Monzie, quha for her sorcerie and witchcraft was brunt fourscoir of +yeir since or thereby."[9] + +That the date of the burning of the witch at Monzie took place in the +year 1563, and not, as is generally supposed, in the year 1715 is not +only proved by the recorded evidence in the case of John Brughe already +referred to, it also receives confirmation from the fact that although +reference is made over and over again in the Session Records to public +events, there is no mention made of the witch. An additional argument +for the earlier date is also found in the fact that Patrick Graeme, +younger of Inchbrakie (referred to by Dr. Marshall as the person who +brought Kate to the stake, and by Mr Blair as the man who would prove +the means of her death), had been for over twenty years in exile. +Having slain John, the Master of Rollo, when returning homewards from a +revel at Invermay, he escaped abroad, and it was not till the year 1720 +that he procured remission of his sentence and returned to Inchbrakie. +That he did return is proved by the fact that he was a witness to a +feu-charter, granted by Anthony Murray of Dollary, to Donald Fisher, +taylzior in Crieff, dated "at Dollary," January 13th, 1725. + +An attempt has been made not only to fix the date as 1715, but also to +give a list of the "understanding gentlemen, magistrates, and ministers +of the neighbourhood," who acted as judges on the occasion; and in +particular the then minister of Monzie--Mr Bowie--is singled out as one +of those who are said to have been bitter against the witch, and +because of the part he is supposed to have taken in bringing her to +justice, not only was a curse pronounced upon the parish, but for +rhyming purposes a curse is also pronounced on Mr Bowie and his +successors in office-- + + "Yon bonnie manse shall ne'er a tenant see + Who shall not yet this bitter day abye,"-- + +a curse which has not been realised, so far as we know, in the case of +any of those who have ministered in holy things in the parish. If +there is any honour attached to the work of burning witches, we +conclude that the parish can claim the honour of being the first to +obey the law enacted on the 4th of June, 1563, and if the evidence +given at the trial of John Brughe be at all reliable--as we have no +reason to doubt--the real name of the witch was Kate Nike Neiving. + +Fifty years ago, Monzie was a flourishing village of one hundred and +twenty inhabitants, while in the immediate neighbourhood there would be +perhaps two hundred and thirty more. Now, the population over the same +area is not above a fourth of that number. The few cottages that +remain speak of other days, and the old churchyard, and the jougs--an +iron collar in which offenders were pilloried--fastened to the porch of +the church, bring back the long-forgotten past. Many changes have +taken place during the last fifty years. Pendicles have been swept +into large farms; the industry of weaving and spinning has disappeared. +But the natural aspect of Monzie is unchanged: the Almond and the +Shaggie still run sunny and clear from the everlasting hills through +her silent vales, which look upon the lover of nature with a face of +beauty as fresh and entrancing as ever. + + + +[1] _Statistical Account of Monzie_, by Mr Laurie. + +[2] _Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scotland_, 1732. + +[3] _Liber Insule Missarum_. + +[4] _Memorials and Queries_. Printed by Constable, Edinburgh, 1846. + +[5] _The Holocaust_. By Rev. George Blair. Edinburgh: 1845. + +[6] The first Graeme of Inchbrakie was a son of the first Earl of +Montrose. His father gave him a charter to it, and to Aberuthven, +dated June, 1513. + +[7] The stone had been honoured by being set in a gold ring. + +[8] _Waverley Anecdotes_, p. 190. + +[9] _The Darker Superstitions of Scotland_. By John Graham Dalziel. +Glasgow: 1835, p. 579. + + + + +THE CASTLE, BARONY, AND SHERIFFDOM OF AUCHTERARDER + +By A. G. REID, F.S.A., Scot., Auchterarder + +Tradition asserts that the Castle of Auchterarder was one of the seats +of the Scottish Kings and the residence of King Malcolm Canmore, who +granted the Common Muir to the neighbouring burgh. The Barony was +originally a Crown possession. Being situated on the road from the +Royal Palaces of Scone and Forteviot to Stirling, and the principal +manor place of a Barony belonging to the Crown, there is every +probability that the tradition of its having been a royal palace is +correct, and that the warlike Malcolm and the sainted Margaret abode +within its walls. + +Auchterarder was one of the Royal Burghs of Scotland. It may be said +that no charter of erection is in existence, but its absence is +explained by the fact that the proximity of a royal seat gave the +neighbouring town the status of a Royal Burgh. Whether or not +Auchterarder got a charter of erection from the Sovereign, no doubt can +exist that at a very early period it was one of the Royal Burghs of +Scotland. In the charter of William, the son of Malise, of the lands +within or outside the town of Auchterarder, still known as the Abbey +lands, granted to the Canons of Inchaffray, which lands he had bought +from John, the son of Baltin, he not only appended his own seal to the +writing, but, for greater security and fuller evidence, procured to be +appended thereto the common seal of the Burgh of Auchterarder. + +The Barony of Auchterarder remained Crown property until the time of +King Robert the Bruce. King Alexander II., by charter, dated at Cluny, +the 13th day of August, in the eleventh year of his reign (1227), +granted to the Canons of the Abbey of Inchaffray the teind of his +duties of Auchterarder to be drawn yearly by the hands of his tacksmen +and bailies of Auchterarder. + +In 1296, Edward I. invaded Scotland with 5000 armed horse and 30,000 +footmen. He passed the River Tweed on 28th March, and continued his +progress until 24th April, when he routed the Scots at Dunbar with +great slaughter. He continued his triumphant progress northwards, +resting at various places. We are told that "on the Thursday he went +to Stirling, and they who were within the Castle fled, and none +remained but the porter, who surrendered the Castle, and there came the +Earl of Strathearn 'to the peace,' and there tarried the King five +days. On the Wednesday before the Feast of St. John (20th June) the +King passed the Scottish sea, and lay at Auchterarder, his Castle; on +the Thursday, at St. John of Perth, a good town, and there abode +Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; this same day was John the Baptist's +Day." His progress and the places at which he stayed are +circumstantially narrated in the Itinerary from which we quote. He +returned to Berwick on 22nd August, and the chronicler adds--"And he +conquered the realm of Scotland, and searched it, as is above written, +within twenty-one weeks without any more."[1] + +Attention is directed to the terms of the words of the Norman French +Itinerary in reference to the King having taken up his residence in +Auchterarder Castle. "_Le Mescredy devaunt Seint Johne passa le roi le +Mere d'Escoce et jut â Outreard, son chastelle._" Reference is made in +the narrative to many other castles in which the King lay, but only in +this instance is the castle stated to have belonged to him. This is +conclusive evidence that the Castle was the property of the Crown, and +that the King took up his abode in it as such. + +The halting of Edward I. with his army at Auchterarder was not the only +occasion upon which Auchterarder received an embattled host. In 1332 +the Scottish army of Donald, the Earl of Mar, 30,000 strong, lay at +Auchterarder previous to the disastrous Battle of Dupplin,[2] and in +1559 the army of the Dowager Queen Mary, under the Duke of Hamilton and +Monsieur d'Osel, lay there, prepared to encounter the Lords of the +Congregation.[3] The most disastrous military visit and the last was +when the Earl of Mar, in 1716, burnt the town. + +Auchterarder being the only Royal Burgh in Strathearn, was the head +burgh of that County Palatine and the seat of a Sheriffdom, the area of +which was probably co-extensive with Strathearn. In the interregnum +after the death of Alexander III. the office of Sheriff was vested in +Malcolm of Innerpeffray, who, in the _compotus_ of the extent of all +the King's lands of Scotland for the period between 25th April, 1304, +and 28th February, 1305, accounted as "Sheriff of Uthrardor of its +issues, iocs."; and again, "from said Sir Malcolm of the issues of the +Sheriffdom of Uthrardor and the farms of Glendowiche, £58."[4] + +The Sheriff figures in a transaction in the Scottish War of +Independence. There was an Inquisition at Perth held on 1st September, +1305, before Malise, Earl of Stratherne, lieutenant of the warden north +of Forth, and Malcolm de Inverpefray, Knight, Deputy of John de +Sandale, Chamberlain, and William de Bevercotts, Chancellor of +Scotland, on certain articles touching the person of Michael de Miggal +by Gilbert de Hay, David de Graham, and others; "who say on oath in +Michael's presence that he had been lately taken prisoner forcibly +against his will by William le Waleys, that he twice escaped, but was +followed and brought back, and he was told if he tried to get away a +third time he should lose his life. Thus, it appears, he remained with +William through fear of death and not of his own will." The following +deliverance is endorsed:--"The Chamberlain is 'commanded to give him +his goods and chattels of the King's special grace.'"[5] The Sheriff, +as Chamberlain, no doubt favourably represented to the King Michael's +excuse, as the subsequent conduct of both the Earl of Strathearn and +himself showed a fellow-feeling, and that, like Michael, they had been +acting under constraint. + +On 15th September, 1305, King Edward I., with the concurrence of ten +Scots and twenty-two English Commissioners to his Parliament, made an +ordinance containing certain regulations "for the settlement of +Scotland." Amongst these regulations was the following:--"That there +should be Sheriffs natives either of Scotland or England, to be +appointed or removed by the Lieutenant or the Chamberlain, at +discretion, who should execute the office of escheatry as usual, and +that none should be appointed but the most sufficient men and most +profitable for the King, and people, and the maintenance of peace." +Sir Malcolm de Innerpeffer was appointed, or rather continued, in +office of Sheriff of Auchterarder, and he was at same time appointed +Sheriff of the shire of Clackmannan.[6] The appointment did not, +however, extinguish the Sheriff's patriotism, as the next thing we hear +of him is:-- + +"The King sends to Walter, Bishop of Chester, the Treasurer, Malcolm de +Innerpeffrei, Knight, who at the time of this last 'riote' of the Scots +was the King's Sheriff of Clackmannan and Auchterarder, but +nevertheless was one of the first to join Sir Robert de Brus, and +wickedly allotted the Earls of Menteth and Strathern in aiding said +Robert; also fought against the King at the Battle of Seint Johan de +Perth, and has done all the damage he could, commanding that he be +secured in some strong castle, not in irons, but body for body." + +"Whereon said Malcolm was at once delivered to the Constable of the +Tower of London, on the 7th of December." + +Another writ follows regarding Sir Malcolm's two horses, which the King +permits him to make profit of at pleasure.[7] + +We do not know the result of the proceedings against the Sheriff of +Auchterarder, but as his two horses were restored to him, he seems to +have been treated leniently. In regard to the Earl, we find that in +November, 1306, he presented a memorial to the King and Council, +showing that he was compelled to join Sir Robert de Brus through fear +of his life. + +The Castle and Barony of Auchterarder appear to have been Crown +possessions until the reign of Robert the Bruce, when they became the +property of Sir William de Montfichet or Montifex, appointed Justiciar +of Scotland in 1332. The family was of Norman extraction. They had +possessions in England, and a branch for some time settled in Scotland, +Robert Montfichet being a witness to a charter of William the Lion in +1184. In Robertson's _Index of Ancient Charters_ there occurs an old +official inventory, compiled, apparently, about the close of the +sixteenth century, in which mention is made of a charter--"Wilhelmo de +Montefixo of the lands of Auchterarder with the town duty." Sir +William Montfichet or de Montifex had large possessions, being not only +proprietor of the Barony of Auchterarder, but of Cargill and Kincardine +in Menteith, and other lands in Perthshire; and also of Kilmahew, in +Dumbartonshire, and other lands. He had three daughters, who became +his heirs-portioners. To his eldest daughter Marie he left the estates +of Auchterarder, Cargill (or Stobhall), and Kincardine in Menteith. +She married Sir John Drummond, the seventh Thane of Lennox. Sir John +Drummond's eldest daughter was Annabella Drummond, Queen to Robert III. +Our present Gracious Sovereign Queen Victoria is a lineal descendant of +Marie Montifex of the Castle of Auchterarder.[8] + +In the reign of David II. mention is made of the Burgh of Auchterarder +in the account of the Great Chamberlain for 1366 as being in arrear of +the contribution for payment of the King's ransom, being due the sum of +thirty-one shillings.[8] In 1374, the Chamberlain debits himself with +thirty-three shillings and fourpence received from the bailies of +Auchterarder for contribution; and there are two different entries in +the rolls of 1390, both relating to a debt owing by the Crown to the +community of Auchterarder on account of certain services to the late +King Robert II. There is also another entry in the Chamberlain Rolls, +under date 1435, in which it appears that the services to the Crown had +not been uplifted by the Chamberlain from the burgesses of Cromarty, +Dingwall, and Ochterardor, because no Chamberlain aires had been held +within those burghs at the time when the account was made up. Under +date August, 1569, in the accounts of the High Treasurer there is an +entry, where the "customaries of Ochterairder" are mentioned along with +those of St. Andrews. + +On 14th August, 1565, by Act of the Privy Council, in name of Henry and +Mary, it was ordained "that lettres be direct to officiaris of armes +chargeing thame to pas to the mercat croces of the Burrowis of +Edinburgh, Hadingtoun, Linlythquow, Striviling, Clakmannane, Kinross, +Uchterardour, Perth, Cowper, and all utheris places needful, and thair +be oppin proclamation in thair Majesteis' name and autoritie to charge +all and sindrie Earlis, Lordis, Baronis, frehalderis, landit men, and +substantious gentilmen dwelland within the bundis (_inter alia_ of the +Stewartrie of Stratherne), with their houshaldis, honest friendis, and +servandis weil bodin in feir of weir, and providit for xv. days after +thair comin, to convene and meet the King and Quenis Majesteis at the +places and upon the days respective efter following--that is to say, +the inhabitantis of Stratherne to meit thair hieneises at Striviling +Brig upon Sounday the xii. day of August instant."[10] + +Not only is there thus evidence of Auchterarder being assessed in dues +and exercising the privileges of a Royal Burgh, but, what is of more +importance, as showing its burghal character, is, that there are three +separate precepts of Parliament--in 1570, 1581, and 1600--summoning +Commissioners to Parliament from the Burgh. No doubt the names of the +Commissioners do not appear in the Rolls of Parliament, but that did +not derogate from the right of the Burgh to send them; and the probable +cause of their not having been sent, and of the infrequency of +Auchterarder appearing in the public records, arose from its being +completely inland, and without foreign trade, on which the great +customs were levied, and consequently being one of what were called dry +burghs. Owing to this, and being much exposed to predatory incursions, +it had fallen into an unprosperous and decayed state, which would well +account for the fact common enough to Royal Burghs of its not sending +any Commissioners to Parliament. + +This state of matters is quaintly described in the Act of Parliament of +30th November, 1581, entitled "Ratification of the Fair of +Vchterardour," which had been obtained with a view to restore the +prosperity of the burgh. The Act is in the following terms:-- + +"Oure Souerane Lord and three estaites of this p'nt Parliament, +understanding that the burgh of Vchtirardour is of auld erectit in ane +frie burgh regall, and that the samin is far distant fra the say +portis, and hes not usit faires nor m'cat dayis; the samin is becum +decayit, and the inhabitantis thereof pure sua that thai ar not abill +to intertene the civill ordor of ane frie burgh, nor zit execute sic +justice as thay micht in the cu'trie about being opressit dyvers tymes +be broken men and lymmeris, quha makis incursiones, and hereis mony +cu'trey men and manassies aftymes the inhabitantis of the said town and +burgh; and thairfoir said Souerane Lord wt. auise foirsaid, for help of +the comoun welth of the said burgh, and support of the inhabitantis +thairof, hes given and grantit lyk as his heires wt. auise forsaidis, +gevis and grantis license, fredome, and libertie to the provost, +bailleis, inhabitantis, and communitie of the said burgh of +Vchtirardour to hald zeirlie ane trie fair and m'cat day upoun the 25th +day of November nix to cum, and to cotinew zeirlie thairefter in all +tymes cu'ing, declarand expresslie be thir p'ntis that all or Souerane +Lordis liegis may resort and repair thairto for bying and selling of +all guidis and m'chendice thairintill, quhairby the policie of the said +burgh may the better incres, and that the liegeis also may haif the +better eisement and intertertenigment for decora'un of the realme; and +ordainis l'res of publica'un to be direct hereupon in form as effeiris." + +This fair--the date being transferred by the change of style to 6th +December--though shorn of its former importance, is still held. It was +the day for reckoning and paying yearly accounts in the town and +district, and was until lately a large cattle market. + +After the Act of Parliament establishing the fair there is little +reference in contemporary records to Auchterarder. The Castle and +Barony continued in possession of the noble family of Perth, which +during the eventful years of 1715 and 1745 exercised its influence, not +without effect, in the district in favour of the exiled family. One of +the most memorable events in the history of Auchterarder was the +burning of the town in January, 1716, by the Earl of Mar, after the +Battle of Sheriffmuir, in order to prevent shelter to the Duke of +Argyll's army, which in pursuit had to encamp amidst the scene of +desolation. This was an impolitic act, and calculated to exasperate +the public mind against the exiled family. The burning was accompanied +by great hardship, having been done during the depth of winter in a +snow storm. The sufferers, after great delay and protracted +litigation, succeeded in obtaining payment from the Exchequer of a +pecuniary consideration, called the "burning money," in respect of +their losses. + +After the Act for the abolition of the heritable jurisdictions in 1748 +the portion of Auchterarder strictly burghal ceased to have titles +completed in the burgage form. Until that date titles were made up on +burgage holding and resignations made in favour of the bailies of +Auchterarder, who probably received their appointment from the family +of Perth, the proprietors of the adjoining Barony. No burgh register +existed, and the instruments were somewhat anomalously recorded in the +Particular Register of Sasines. A difficulty was presented as to +completing titles when there were no bailies to give infeftments or +receive resignations; and so late as 1832 a petition was presented to +the Court of Session praying the Court to appoint bailies to the burgh +of Auchterarder to give infeftment. The then proprietor of the Barony, +conceiving this was derogatory to his rights as alleged superior, +entered appearance, and the petition was withdrawn on the superior +offering to give a charter of the lands in question to complete the +title. + +The Barony of Auchterarder continued in the possession of the Perth +family until its attainder after the death of James, Duke of Perth, +when the lands passed into the hands of the Commissioners of the +Annexed Estates. Under their administration a good deal was done for +the improvement of the place. The Commissioners encouraged the +manufacture of linen, and they laid out the lands of Borland Park into +convenient divisions, erecting cot-houses thereon for the soldiers who +had been engaged in the German War. They also made a grant of the +Girnal House of Auchterarder for the benefit of the inhabitants. The +lands were restored to the Perth family in 1784, and were disposed of +by Lord Perth shortly thereafter; the Castle and the adjoining lands of +Castlemains becoming the property of the late John Malcolm, Esq., while +the remainder of the Barony was purchased by the Hon. Basil Cochrane, +by whose trustees it was sold in 1831 to the late Lieutenant-Colonel +James Hunter, who erected a mansion-house thereon. He died in 1874, +leaving the estate to his nephew, Major Patrick Hunter, who in 1887 +sold it to the late James Reid, Esq., Lord Dean of Guild of Glasgow, +and it is now possessed by his trustees. + +The Castle of Auchterarder, which is situated about a quarter of a mile +to the north of the town, though not of large dimensions, must have +been a place of considerable strength. It was surrounded by a moat, +the traces of which are still visible. The only remaining fragment is +a part of the donjon keep. A carved stone is built into the wall. +Through exposure it is very much defaced, but it represents a warrior +seated in a chariot, and is supposed to be Roman. The wall is nine +feet thick. Some years ago the draw-well of the Castle, built around +with masonry, and of considerable depth, was discovered. The Castle is +said to have been entire until the end of last century, when a vandal +farmer took it down to build farm offices. + +A Common of upwards of two hundred acres in extent is situated to the +west of the town, over which the inhabitants from time immemorial +exercised a right of pasturage. A Process of Division was raised +before the Court of Session in 1808 by the Honourable Basil Cochrane, +then proprietor of the Barony. This process was wakened in 1814, and +again in 1841. Defences were lodged for the portioners and feuars, and +thereafter by the inhabitants, on the ground that, as the Common was a +pertinent of a royal burgh, it was indivisible, and the Act for +division of commons did not apply. Litigation followed, and ultimately +in 1860 a Bill was brought into Parliament and carried through for the +vesting of the Common for the benefit of the town in a set of +Commissioners. Under the Muir Improvement Act, 1860, the Common was +reclaimed by the Commissioners, being drained, trenched, and fenced. +The debt incurred in the reclamation is nearly wiped out, and it now +forms a valuable source of public revenue. The careful and economic +conduct of the Commissioners since the Act was passed, by which such a +favourable result has been attained, is deserving of all praise, and +the gratitude of future generations. + +In 1894 the ratepayers resolved to adopt the Burgh Police Act, and the +affairs and management of the town are now entrusted to Police +Commissioners. + +Having given this retrospect of the civil history of Auchterarder, we +shall now advert to a few prominent facts in its ecclesiastical annals. + +The first notice we have of the Church of Auchterarder is in the +foundation charter by Gilbert, Earl of Strathearn, dated in 1198, in +favour of the Abbey of Inchaffray. By that charter he granted the +Church of St. Meckessock of Eochterardeour, and the four other Churches +of Aberuthven, Madderty, Strageath, and Kinkell. This grant was +subsequently confirmed, and the additional churches added thereto of +Dunning, Monzievaird, Fowlis, and Kilbryde.[11] + +As already stated, King Alexander II. granted the teind of his duties +of Auchterarder, and, by a subsequent charter, amongst other grants he +confirmed the grant of these churches to Inchaffray. + +William the Lion executed a similar confirmation of the grant of the +Churches of Madderty, Kinkell, and Auchterarder. + +In virtue of these grants the teinds of the Church of Auchterarder were +drawn by the Abbey of Inchaffray, but, as a condition, the Abbey had to +provide divine ordinances in the Parish Church, and the cure +accordingly was served by a vicar. The church and parish were within +the Diocese of Dunblane. The old parish church is situated about half +a mile to the north of the town, and, though roofless, is standing +nearly entire. It is a long, narrow building with no architectural +beauty. The foundation cross--a long slab with a Latin cross +thereon--was, a number of years ago, exhumed, and now stands within the +walls; while the baptismal font, which until lately stood at the +western entrance, was recently removed for safe custody to the new +parish church within the town. The old bell is also there. Although +small, it gives forth a very sweet and clear sound, and bears the +impress of antiquity. + +The Church of Auchterarder was dedicated to St. Mackessog, who was also +the patron saint of Luss and Comrie. He flourished in the sixth +century, and his day was the tenth of March. His legend and office are +given under that date in the Breviary of Aberdeen. Southward from the +church a few hundred yards there is a perennial spring still bearing +the name of Mackessog's Well, and which until recent times was resorted +to for the healing virtue of its waters. After the Reformation the +Saint's day was kept on the 10th of March, O.S., as one of the +principal fairs of the town, and so continued until a recent period. + +The old church appears to have been used as a place of worship until +about the time of Charles I. The tradition is that the roof fell in on +a Sunday after the congregation had left and were returning on the Brae +of Powhillock to Auchterarder. While the old church continued to be +the church of the parish, there was at an early period, and anterior to +the Reformation, a chapel in the town of Auchterarder where the present +parish church stands. The croft at the back is still named the Chapel +Croft. The northern part of the present parish church and the steeple +were erected about the middle of the seventeenth century, the steeple +being built of stones taken from the old Castle of Kincardine, +dismantled after the siege in 1646. The southern portion of the church +was added in 1784. + +There is incorporated with the parish of Auchterarder the eastern +portion of the parish of Aberuthven. Aberuthven was one of the +earliest ecclesiastical foundations in Scotland. It was dedicated to +St. Cathan, Bishop and Confessor, who flourished in the sixth century. +His festival was held on the 17th of May. The Churches of Kilchattan, +in Bute, and Fortingall, in Perthshire, were also dedicated to him. +Aberuthven was one of the churches appropriated to the Abbey of +Inchaffray by the foundation charter of Gilbert, Earl of Strathearn, +before referred to. The cure was served by a vicar appointed by that +house. In the charter it is named "_Ecclesia Sancti Kattani de +Abbyrrothueuen_." This charter was confirmed, and other churches +granted by a subsequent charter of the Earl Gilbert. Alexander II. +confirmed this last charter. Earl Malise confirmed by charter the +gifts of his grandfather, Gilbert, and the confirmation of his father, +Robert, Earl of Strathearn, and granted four merks of the rents of his +lands of Aberuthven, which the Canons of Inchaffray were accustomed to +receive previous to the year 1247. + +Aberuthven continued a separate parish from Auchterarder until some +time after the Reformation. It was united to Auchterarder prior to +21st February, 1618, and the minister for some time thereafter occupied +the manse and glebe of Aberuthven. The parish of Aberuthven included +the Brae of Foswell, south of the Ruthven, now partly situated in the +parish of Auchterarder and partly in Blackford. Kincardine Castle, the +seat of the Earls of Montrose, was within the bounds. Aberuthven was +the parish church where that family worshipped and where their remains +were interred. The walls of the Church of Aberuthven--a long, narrow +building like that of Auchterarder--are still standing. On the south +side, and partly within the area, a four-square building named "the +Aisle" has been erected as a mausoleum for the ducal family of +Montrose. The last received within its walls was James, Duke of +Montrose, who died in 1836. This aisle was designed by Adam, the +eminent architect. At the east end of the church, on the gospel side +of the site of the high altar, there is a recess in the wall, forming +an ambry of elegant form. It is evident there has been a door upon it, +from the iron sockets which still remain. This was probably used for +holding the church utensils. Worship was continued in Aberuthven +Church until the end of the seventeenth century, as the funeral sermon +of the Marchioness of Montrose was preached in it on 23rd January, +1673, by the Rev. Arthur Ross, the then parson of Glasgow, afterwards +Archbishop of St. Andrews. His daughter, Anna, Lady Balmerino, was the +mother of the gallant Lord Balmerino who was beheaded on Tower Hill in +1746. + +Sir David Cardney was vicar of the Parish Church of Auchterarder in +1527. + +After the Reformation it was proposed by the General Assembly, in 1581, +that the Presbytery should be erected as the Presbytery of Crieff. The +Assembly, on 8th April, 1593, "ordaines the Presbyterie of Dumblane to +be transportit to Ochtirardour, and ordainis the Presbyteries of +Stirling and Perth to establishe the said Presbyterie in Auchtirardour +upon Thursday come xv. days," being 19th April, 1593. It was changed +to Muthill prior to 18th January, 1633, but Auchterarder was resumed +before 1638. + +At the Reformation the parish of Auchterarder was supplied by David +Murye, reader, in 1567. The first Protestant minister in Auchterarder +was John Hamyll. He was previously vicar of Dunning, having succeeded +there to his uncle, Sir John Hamyll, who from his title was likely +vicar of Dunning in the old church and conformed to the new opinions. +John Hamyll was presented by King James VI. to the Vicarage of +Auchterarder on 28th June, 1568, and to the Vicarage of Aberuthven on +1st March, 1582. He had also charge of Kinkell and Dunning. + +John Graham was minister of Auchterarder in 1636. He was a member of +the General Assembly at Glasgow, in 1638, at which the famous James, +Marquis of Montrose, was representative elder from the Presbytery of +Auchterarder, he being then on the Covenanting side. Mr Graham was +deposed by the Commission of the Assembly on 27th November, 1644, for +speaking once to the Marquis of Montrose.[12] The sentence was taken +off by the Assembly, 8th February, 1645; but he was again deposed by +the Assembly, 6th July, 1649. His prelatic predilections were +attributed to his wife being a descendant of John Hamilton, the last +Catholic Archbishop of St. Andrews. + +James Drummond, son of the Rev. James Drummond, minister of Fowlis, and +a near relative of the Earl of Perth, was successively incumbent of +Auchterarder and of Muthill. He was consecrated Bishop of Brechin on +Christmas Day, 1684, in the Chapel Royal of Holyrood. He is reported +to have been a man of strict Protestant principles, and a decided +opponent of King James' interference with the Church, though he, like +most of his brethren, was a keen supporter of hereditary monarchy, and +took a decided part with King James when the most of his courtiers +deserted him. Bishop Drummond was deprived of his bishopric at the +Revolution, having preached at Brechin for the last time on Sunday, +18th April, 1688.[13] + +David Freebairn was minister of Auchterarder from 1680 to 1686, when he +became minister of Dunning. He was deprived by the Privy Council, 4th +September, 1689. He went to Edinburgh, and was consecrated a bishop of +the Scottish Episcopal Church, 7th October, 1722, and died Primus and +the oldest Presbyter in Scotland, 24th December, 1739, in his +eighty-seventh year and sixty-fourth of his ministry. "He was of +blameless conversation and sweet temper, while he was a vigilant +preacher and a successful physician." His son Robert was a bookseller +and printer in Edinburgh, and a staunch adherent of the Stuart family. + +Andrew Duncan, D.D., was minister of Auchterarder from 1781 to 1802, +when he was translated to Ratho. He was Principal Clerk to the General +Assembly, and Moderator of the Assembly in 1824. + +Robert Young was presented to the church by the Earl of Kinnoull, 14th +September, 1834. Objections were taken to him under the Veto Act, and +his settlement was delayed till 1843. He died 15th September, 1865. +He was an excellent scholar, an able preacher, and a faithful pastor. + +In conclusion, let us express a hope that Auchterarder may long +flourish and increase in prosperity, and that the sentiment contained +in its motto may continue to be verified--_Non potest civitas abscondi +supra montem posita_. + + + +[1] M.S. in the Imperial Library at Paris. Fonds Lat., 6049, folio 30 +b. + +[2] Buchanani Hist. + +[3] Knox's _History of the Reformation_. + +[4] _Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland_. Vol. II.; 1689. + +[5] _Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland_. Vol II.; 1646. + +[6] _Calendar ut supra_; 1691. + +[7] _Calendar_; 1858. + +[8] _History of the House of Drummond_. By Viscount Strathallan. + +[9] _Rotuli Camerarii Scotiae_. + +[10] _Register of the Privy Council of Scotland_. Vol. I., p. 348. + +[11] _Liber Insule Missarum_. + +[12] _Guthrie's Memoirs_. + +[13] _History of Brechin_. By David D. Black (pp. 97-98.) + + + + +AT THE GATE OF THE HIGHLANDS + +By Rev. JOHN HUNTER, M.A., Crieff + +The title describes admirably the position of the town of Crieff, +planted as it is on the Knock, at the base of which the main road from +Stirling and the South splits into two portions--the one running by way +of Monzievaird and Comrie, the other by Monzie and the Sma' Glen, into +the Western and Northern Highlands. + +Crieff has had a long history. The most probable meaning of the name +is "Tree-town," from _Craobh_--Gaelic for "tree"--a fact that carries +us back into a remote age. Fifty or sixty years ago, the Breadalbane +Highlanders spoke of Crieff as the "town of the tree." In early +historical times the fame of Crieff was overshadowed by that of Foulis, +near by which was the Castletown--the principal residence of the Earls +Palatine of Strathearn--not the Celtic Earls whose home was at +Tom-a-chastel, but the Stewarts, and afterwards the Grahams, who rose +into place and power in Strathearn upon the ruins of the ancient line, +which seems to have had no family name. + +Treasonable practices against the life of Robert the Bruce brought +about the downfall of the Celtic Earls. The Black Parliament, which +sat at Scone in August, 1320, condemned Joanna, daughter of Malise, the +last Earl, to perpetual imprisonment. She had married Warrenne, Earl +of Surrey--appointed Guardian of Scotland by Edward I. in 1296--and in +1334 her father resigned his Earldom of Strathearn to his son-in-law. +For the doing of this he was forfeited and attainted, in 1345, "as an +enemy to the King and Kingdom of Scotland." The fief reverted to the +Crown. Next year was fought the Battle of Durham, and David II. was +carried captive to London, where he remained for eleven years. While +in England he bestowed the forfeited Earldom of Strathearn upon his +nephew, Robert, the High Steward of Scotland, afterwards King Robert +II. On his accession to the throne, in 1370, Robert II. transferred +the Earldom to David, the eldest son of his second marriage to Euphemia +Ross, the widow of Randolph, Earl of Moray. Earl David took the title, +Earl Palatine, in 1375, and his only daughter, Euphemia, who succeeded +him in 1389, styled herself "_Senescalli Comitissa Palatina de +Strathearn_." She married Patrick Graham, who was killed at Ferntower, +in 1413, by Sir John Drummond of Concraig, Steward of Strathearn, and +kinsman of James I., whose mother was Annabella Drummond. The only son +of Patrick Graham and his wife, Euphemia, was Malise Graham, who, as +Earl of Strathearn, became security along with twenty-seven others for +the payment of the ransom of James I. He was detained as a hostage in +England for thirty years, and meantime his estates and title were +resumed by the King, on the ground that they did not descend to the +heir-female. To compensate him for this, he was created Earl of +Menteith. The annual rental of his estates as Earl of Strathearn was +set down in the Durham Schedule at 500 merks. The schedule was drawn +up in the year 1424. + +Even in the time of the old Earls, Crieff held an important position in +public affairs. It will hardly do to say that it was the capital of +Strathearn. As a Royal Burgh of the foundation of Malcolm Canmore, +perhaps Auchterarder was entitled to claim the premier rank. But it +would seem that the business of the ancient Earldom was transacted +here. So early as 1218, Earl Gilbert, the founder of the religious +house of Inchaffray, granted a charter of "six marcis of Abercarnich, +dated apud Crefe die Santi Ambrosii." Fifty years later, Earl Malise, +who was the first of his race to show fondness for English +ways--sending his sons, Gilbert and Robert, to be educated in the +English Court--granted, to the Convent of Inchaffray, permission to +quarry stones within his lands at Nether Gask. The permission was +dated at Crieff, 1266. Later traces are a narration by Robert, the +Steward of Scotland and Earl of Strathearn, of the proceedings of his +Court, held at Crieff on May 8th, 1358; and the fact that on May 7th, +1491, William, Lord Ruthven, moved King James IV. and his Council for a +return of the record of "ane justiceayr holden at the Skait of Creif on +the penult day of July, 1443." + +The Steward's Court of Strathearn was held in the open air. The site +was included within the park of Broich. It was a circular mound, +twelve yards across, and was recognisable up to the year 1860. A +"fail" dyke surrounded the spot, and two aged larch trees threw their +shadows upon it. A certain reverential feeling, due to a site from +which had gone forth the issues of life and death, kept the place +intact. But in that year vandalism scored a regrettable triumph. The +site was trenched and levelled. Two cists were discovered of the +rudest construction. Human remains were found within one of them, +bearing traces of fire action; also an urn, which measured 5 inches in +height and 5 inches across. Here, then, was the stayt, or skait, or +skeat of Crieff. The Court continued in the full vigour of its energy +for more than a hundred years, dispensing justice both in civil and +criminal cases. Originating in the claim of Earl David in 1375 to be +Earl Palatine, its jurisdiction continued in unimpaired strength and +scope down to the year 1483--well on into the reign of James III., and +exactly thirty years before the disastrous Battle of Flodden. This +latter date is interesting to us, seeing that it marks the turning +point in the fortunes of Crieff. With the decay of the power of the +Court of the Earl Palatine of Strathearn Crieff also decayed, and sank +into the position of an ordinary kirk-town. The period of decaying +prosperity lasted for 200 years--on to 1683, when a forward impulse was +given by George Drummond of Milnab, who in that year became Lord +Provost of Edinburgh. By giving off pieces of his lands, in feu, he +offered an inducement to settle in Crieff, which was taken advantage of +to some small extent. Others have taken up the lead of the +enterprising Laird of Milnab, and Crieff is now a town of feuars, +holding mainly of the Perth Estate, Dollerie, and Broich. But this is +modern history, and we have not yet done with the old. I have still to +relate as briefly as may be how it came about that the Court of the +Earls Palatine lost power and influence. + +The result was due in great measure to the jealousies and dissensions +of the rival families of the Murrays and the Drummonds. The people of +Crieff, in the period of its decadence, may well have anticipated +Shakespeare's "A plague on both your houses," as applied to the +Capulets and the Montagues. The hereditary office of Steward of +Strathearn was a prime bone of contention. In the days of the Celtic +Earls the office was usually held by a younger son, or other near +relation. The last of these Seneschals of the old line was Malise, who +had married Murialla, the widow of Fergus, son of Gilbert, Earl of +Strathearn, the benefactor of Inchaffray. He got with her the lands of +Tullibardine in dower. A son, Henry, and a daughter, Ada, were born to +them. The daughter married Sir William Murray, who got the lands of +Tullibardine conveyed to him, in 1284, by his mother-in-law, and +confirmed, for his greater security, by his brother-in-law, Henry. +This Sir William Murray was one of those who were summoned to Berwick +by Edward I. in 1292 to hear the advocacy of the claims of Bruce and +Balliol. Henry, the brother-in-law, became Steward of Strathearn on +the death of his father, Malise. His only daughter married Sir Maurice +Drummond of Concraig, and carried with her the office and lands held by +her father. Sir Maurice was the first Drummond who was Steward of +Strathearn. Both he and his wife were buried within the choir of the +Church of Muthill. It is not to libel human nature to say that the +Tullibardine Murrays looked with disfavour upon the passing of the +Stewardship to the Drummonds of Concraig. The latter, however, were +legally in possession, and the Murrays had to bide their time. The +opportunity was not long in coming. King Robert II. died in 1390. He +is described by Froissart as a man "not valiant, with red, bleared +eyes, who would rather lie still than ride." His reign was prosperous +but at his death "every man did what seemed right in his own eyes." +His third son, nicknamed the Wolf of Badenoch, quarrelled with the +Bishop of Moray and burned his Cathedral of Elgin. The Duke of +Rothesay, heir to the throne on the death of his father, Robert III., +was starved to death in Falkland Palace by his uncle, the Duke of +Albany in 1401. In these wild days Strathearn had its own troubles. +In or about the year 1391 the Stewardship was held by Sir John Drummond +of Concraig the grandson of Sir Maurice, who lies buried in the choir +of Muthill Church. Sir John married Matilda Graham, the sister of Sir +Patrick Graham who subsequently became Earl of Strathearn in right of +his wife Euphemia, the daughter of Earl David, first Earl Palatine. It +was his duty, as Steward of Strathearn, to try Sir Alexander Murray of +Ogilvy for the murder of William de Spalding. This was specially +unfortunate, seeing that Sir Alexander Murray's father had got the +Barony of Ogilvy in compensation for the loss of the Earldom of +Strathearn, when it was assumed by Robert Stewart, afterwards King +Robert II. He was at the bar of a Court over which he doubtless +thought he had a right to preside. The Court sat at Foulis. Upon the +bench were Sir John and Maurice Drummond, deputies of the High +Justiciar, the Lord of Brechin. The accused pled the privilege of one +who was within the ninth degree of kin and "bluid" to Macduff, some +time Earl of Fife, stating that he had gone to the Cross of Macduff, +near Newburgh, and "given nine kye and ane colpindach (young cow), and +was therefore free of the slaucher committed by him." His counsel were +Sir Bernardo de Hawden, Knight of Gleneagles, and Sir John de Logy of +Logiealmond. The judges referred the matter to the High Justiciar, who +decided that Sir Alexander should make his defence before the Court at +Foulis. He submitted, and got off easily, "not with such severities +and rigours of law as might have been shown." + +[Illustration: Gateway, Foulis Church.] + +This affair made matters worse between the Murrays and the Drummonds. +Sir Alexander and his friends set about trying to emancipate themselves +from the jurisdiction of the Stewards of Strathearn. They found an +aider and abettor in Sir Patrick Graham, who had assumed the title of +Earl of Strathearn in right of his wife. Sir John Drummond of +Concraig, the Steward, was his brother-in-law, but disposed to stand +stiffly upon his position as hereditary Steward. He declined to resign +his office into the hands of the Earl of Strathearn as superior. Upon +this there ensued a bitter personal quarrel between the Earl and the +Steward. The Murray party saw their advantage and took it. The wife +of the Laird of Ogilvy was grand-niece to the second wife of the Earl +of Strathearn, and through this connection or otherwise he was induced +to give a pledge that he should either have power to dispose of the +Steward's office or not be Earl of Strathearn. He set out from Methven +Castle with the intention of breaking up the Steward's Court at the +Stayt of Crieff. Sir John and his friends encountered him in the park +of Ferntower at a place still marked by a large standing-stone. The +Earl was killed, and Sir John and his friends fled to Ireland. Fordun +states that none of them were brought to justice, except William and +Walter Oliphant. These were probably sons or grandsons of Sir Walter +Oliphant of Gask, who married Elizabeth, the youngest daughter of +Robert the Bruce, on 11th Jan., 1364. This fatal encounter in the park +of Ferntower took place in 1413, during the regency of Albany, who +succeeded to power in 1406, after the death of his brother, King Robert +III. Sir John had secured the succession to his lands and offices in +favour of his son, Malcolm, so that the outlawry decreed against him +affected himself only. He died in Ireland. But misfortune dogged his +House. Even in the time of his grandson, the family historian states +"that ever since the killing of the Earl of Strathearn the family had +no settled peace, but were forced to keep house to so many friends and +servants for their security that it brought a consumption upon their +fortune, ingadged it in burdens, and made him pairt with many of his +lands to relieve his debts." In 1474 the laird of the time, Maurice +Keir Drummond, sold lands and his office of Steward to his chief, John +Drummond of Cargill, afterwards Lord Drummond. + +Thus the Murrays had gained their object, so far. The family of +Concraig was ruined. But they were foiled in their attempt upon the +Stewardship. They had tried for that many ways. In 1441, Sir David +Murray of Tullibardine had attempted "to wind himself once in +possession of the Stewartrie" by proposing a marriage alliance between +his daughter, Isabella, and Malcolm Drummond, son of Sir John. The +scheme fell through somehow. Meantime, King James I. had put new life +into the central governing body. Parliament was now waking up to a +sense of its rights and duties. The actual reign of James I. only +lasted for thirteen years (1424-1437), but he held no fewer than +thirteen Parliaments during these years. It was his object to break +the power of the nobles and local dignitaries. The unique position of +the Earldom of Strathearn and the hereditary Stewardships which had +grown up alongside of it attracted his attention. The Earldom was the +only Palatinate within the bounds of Scotland; the only Earldom +possessing Royal privileges. King James I. was a reformer of the +"hot-haste" school. The execution of a plan of action followed hard +upon the heels of the conception of it. An Act of his first Parliament +directed an inquest to be made by the Sheriff--"what lands pertain to +the King, or has pertained during the reign of the last three kings, +and in whose hands they now are." In terms of this statute, King James +I. resumed the Earldom of Strathearn on the ground that it was a male +fee, and did not pass to the wife of Patrick Graham, the heir-female. +This happened in 1436, and it cost the King his life the following year +at the hands of Robert Graham, uncle and tutor of the young heir, +Malise, who was still detained as a hostage in England in security for +the payment of the King's ransom. But the impulse had been given; +though dead, the reformer King still spoke to the nation, and in 1442 +James II, and his Parliament declared that the Earldom had fallen to +the Crown. In 1455 it was enacted that all regalities in the King's +hands should be annexed to the royalty, and subject to the King's +Court. This action in Scotland had the support of the Murray faction. +They had come to see the futility of any attempt upon the Stewardship. +In the year 1474--the very year in which Maurice Keir Drummond of +Concraig had parted with lands and office to his kinsman, the Laird of +Cargill--Sir William Murray of Tullibardine obtained from King James +III. a discharge or dishonouration of the Seneschalship of Strathearn. +The effect of this was that his person and his lands were emancipated +from the jurisdiction of the Steward's Court. This example was +followed by the Laird of Abercairny, who held a tack of the lands of +Tullichettle, which Sir William Stirling of Keir, the granter, was +called on to warrant. In 1483, the Laird of Abercairny, Humphrey +Murray, appeared at the Stayt of Crieff and withdrew his +suit--"_Levavit sectam suam de predicta curia_," which was transferred +by Crown charter to the King's Sheriff Court at Perth. Thus terminated +the jurisdiction of the Earls Palatine of Strathearn. It was followed +up by a declaration of date 16th February, 1505, to the effect that +"the Baroneys of new create and maid within the King's Earldom of +Strathearn within thir three years bipast" were released of all service +in the Steward Court of the King's Earldom of Strathearn. Such service +was now due to the King's Sheriff Court of Perth "in all times to cum." + +In giving this rapid sketch of the early history of Crieff, I have +followed mainly the guidance of the writer of a historical introduction +to a little book entitled _The Beauties of Upper Strathearn_. For the +short account of the Skait of Crieff, I am indebted to one or two +articles in the _Strathearn Herald_, written by the late H. B. Farnie, +on the 17th and 24th days of November, 1860, just when the trenching +and levelling were in full swing. We must now turn to the later period +during which Crieff tasted the sweet uses of adversity. It suffered +eclipse for 200 years--from the year 1483, when the jurisdiction of the +Earl Palatine terminated, down to 1683, when a citizen of +Crieff--George Drummond of Milnab--became Lord Provost of Edinburgh. +During these long years, Crieff was an ordinary kirk-town, nowise +distinguished among its fellows. It had its Gothic Church, which seems +to have dated from a very remote period. When it was demolished, in +1787, forty gold coins of Robert I. were found in a hole in the wall +six feet from the ground. There was a law plea for the possession of +these coins between the Crown and James Gentle, the purchaser of the +old walls, which was decided in favour of the Crown. The houses of +Crieff were clustered round this old church--mainly east and north and +south. Crieff had no west end beyond the Cross until after 1731, when +the Master of Drummond made good his title to the Perth Estate, after +the forfeiture which ensued upon the proceedings of 1715. It was +burned to the ground in this year, but, thanks to the Master of +Drummond, it had reached a thriving condition as a market town for the +midland and western districts of Scotland, when the Highlanders broke +loose again in 1745. It suffered no second burning, though the +Highlanders had possession of it, and Prince Charlie held a stormy +council of war in the old Drummond Arms, at the foot of Hill's Wynd. +Since then, Crieff has become a "braw toon" without the other "singe" +its Highland neighbours destined for it. The coming of the railway in +1856, and the adoption of the Police Act in 1864, have done wonders, +enabling it to take full advantage of its many attractions. It was +loyal to the Hanoverian dynasty during the troubles of the "'15" and +the "'45"; but one hundred years before the last outbreak it gave a +kindly welcome to Montrose, who entrenched himself very securely at +Callum's Hill, having doubtless his headquarters at the house of his +kinsman, Inchbrakie. + +We come now to look more closely at Crieff, when it set out upon its +comparatively undistinguished career as a kirk-town. No doubt it felt +the loss of the Court of the Steward of the Earl Palatine of +Strathearn, just as the whole strath felt the want of the sunshine of +the Royal favour after the murder of King James I. in the Blackfriars +Monastery of Perth, at Christmastide, 1437. But though, doubtless, +many forsook it, some remained, and there were kirk-lands near by for +the maintenance of the Gospel. Conflicting interests began to stir in +connection with these lands. When they come under our notice the +kirk-lands of Crieff are attached to the Chapel Royal at Stirling. In +"Ane Index of Rights of the Chappell and of their Bulls or Patents" we +read, as one of the contents, "Applicatio prima fructuum de Air, +Kincardin, Crieff, et Pettie Brachley." This seems to have been +sanctioned by a Bull of Alexander VI., of date May 16th, 1502; and +surely it is interesting to know that the kirk-lands of Crieff, Ayr, +Kincardine, and Pettie Brachley--wherever that was--were allocated to +the Chapel Royal at Stirling by the Borgia Pope, Alexander VI., one of +the prime disgraces of the Chair of St. Peter. But the allocation did +not pass unchallenged. Crieff had its perpetual pensionary vicar in +those days, and naturally enough he could see neither rhyme nor reason +in the arrangement which a Pope had no doubt sanctioned, but which +completely ignored his interests. The name of the worthy vicar was +Master John Broune,[1] a discreet man, as he is called in the public +instrument in which the process is recorded, by means of which he got +an augmentation of stipend. The instrument begins in this way:-- + +"In the name of God. Amen. By this present public instrument, be it +evidently known to all men, that in the year of the Incarnation of our +Lord, 1511, on the 5th day of March, the 15th year of the Indiction, +being the 9th year of the Pontificate of the Most Holy Father in +Christ, and Master of our Master, Julius II., Pope by the Divine +Providence. Compeared in person, in Court, Master John Broune, +perpetual pensionary vicar of the parish of Crieff, in Stratherne, on +the one part, and on the other, Masters William Sterheid and John +Goldsmyth, Canons of the said Chapel Royal and Prebendaries of the same +Church of Crieff." + + +The President of the Court was Master David Abercrummy, principal +official of Candida Casa and of the Chapel Royal, Stirling, also +sub-deacon of the same Chapel Royal. A notary public was also present +and certain subscribing witnesses. Master John Broune, the vicar, +stoutly maintained that the pension was too small and mean (_exigua +parva et exilis_) for his proper maintenance, and strengthened his plea +by the production of two documents--one subscribed by the proper hand +of the most excellent Prince and Master of our Master, James IV., the +most illustrious King of the Scots; the other subscribed by the proper +hand of the reverend Father in Christ, and Master of our Master, David, +by the Divine compassion, Bishop of Candida Casa and of the Chapel +Royal, Stirling. Then follows the King's letter in "braid Scots":-- + +"We, as patrone of the Kyrk of Creyf, gyffis our full consent and +assent to thir ouyr lettres that the Bishop of ouyr Chapel Rial erec +and mak the vicar's pension of the said kyrk equivalent to the utheris +vicaris pensionarys of the Kyrks of Balmaclellene, Suthwyth, and +Kellys, unit and erectit to our said chappell with ane manse, yard, and +gleyb of twa akaris of the kyrk-land of Creyf, callyt 'For,' next +adjacent to the said kyrk, to the sustentacion of the vicar thairof to +serve the cuyr, payand procuragis and synnagis, and mak the dene rural +expensys in visitacion as efferys, and ordains that this be done be the +Bishop of ouyr Chapell Ryal and official tharof by tharis dyscrecionys, +the quantyte of the cuyr beyng consyderit. + +"Subscrivit with ouyr hand at Edynbrugh, the xxv. daye of September, +and of our reng the xxiiij.or zeir, 1512. _Et sequitir subscripcio +manualis_. Rex James." + + +There is a slight discrepancy in the above record; for whereas the +Royal letter is dated the 25th day of September, 1512, it is stated to +have been produced by the vicar before the Court of Master David +Abercrummy on the 5th day of March, 1511. The explanation may be that +it was found difficult to grit the augmentation out of the clutches of +the Stirling Canons, even after the Bishop of Candida Casa (Whithorn) +had decreed in the vicar's favour, and that the Royal authority had +again to be invoked to give effect to it. However this may be, it is +certain that Master John Broune gained his point, as will appear from +the following document, also in "braid Scots":-- + +"Schyr official, forsamekyll as the vicarage of the Kyrk of Creyf, is +nocht contenyt, in the erectioun of our Souerane lordis Chapell Rial as +the layf of the vicarages that are incorporat tharto, this is, tharfor, +that ze assygne and mak ouyr vicar of Creyf als meikle zeyrly to his +pensioun of the fructis o' the sayd vicarage to sustene him and serve +the cuyr as ony of the vicarages of Balmaclellene, Suchwych, or Kellis +has, with ane manse, zard, and gleyb and twa akaris of the kyrk-land +callyt 'For,' next adjacent to the sayd kyrk, wyth certain gress soums +for gudying of the sayd gleyb, according to the extent of the sayd +kyrk-land, he payand of the samyn procurage and synnage aucht and wount +and makand the deyne rurale expense quhen he vesiis the sayd kyrk. + +"Alanerlye, for that our Souerane lordis, patroun of the sayd Kyrk of +Creyf, has consentyt heirto, and commendit us to hys writtings to do +the samyn, keip this our mandment for your warand, and cause the samyn +to be fulfyllyt, sa that we heir na complant tharof in tymys cuming. +Subscrivit wyth our hand at Edinbrugh, the v. day of March, the zer of +God im. vc. xi. zeris. _Et sequitur subscripcio manualis dicti +Episcopi D. Candide Case et Cappelle Regie Striuelingensis Episcopus_." + + +Then follows a narrative of proceedings in monk Latin, which I have +been at some pains to translate thus:-- + +"Certain relevant documents having been publicly examined and shown in +open Court, the said vicar immediately demanded from the judge that he +should proceed with the augmentation of his annual pension of the said +perpetual vicarage according to the tenor of the said two documents, +especially because no reasonable bar had been alleged in Court why the +augmentation in this kind should not be granted. And Master +Abercrummy, the foresaid judge, having carefully examined the two +documents and the foundation of the foresaid Chapel Royal, Stirling, +particularly in that point where it treats of the erection of perpetual +vicarages and of their annual pensions, as in the case of the Parish +Churches of Suchwych (Southwick), Kellis (Kells), and Balmaclellan, +belonging to the said Chapel Royal, augmented the annual pension of the +perpetual vicarage of Crieff in the manner which follows, and +ordained--viz., that the perpetual vicar of the Church of Crieff, in +Strathearn, who has had, _pro tempore_, shall have in perpetuity of the +fruits of that Church of Crieff for his own sustenance and for those +dependent on him, wherewith he may be able to live in comfort, +twenty-four merks of the usual money of Scotland and two acres of +arable land adjacent to the said church of the town, which is called +'For,' pertaining to the same church and (origin?) the house built upon +it, along with pasture for his own animals according to the congruency +(convenience?) of the same said acres, and with 'hearth-rights in the +muirs and marshes of the said town' (focalibus competentinus in moris +et marresiis ejusdem villae.) [The Latin is barbarous, and may mean +anything; but it does seem to have some connection with the right of +digging peats.] And besides, that the forenamed vicar, who has been +bound, _pro tempore_, so, hereafter is, in perpetuity, bound to pay +annually to the bishop in ordinary of the place the procurations aucht +and wount on behalf of the said church, the synodal moneys and expense +in ordinary for the Dean of Christianity who has annually visited the +said Church of Crieff, in Strathearn, and the parish thereof; and that +the payment of the pension, as regards the said 24 merks, shall be made +to the said vicar of Crieff for the time being, at the four usual +annual terms, in equal portions, to be lifted annually out of the +fruits of the said Church of Crieff--viz., at the Festivals of the +Finding of the Holy Cross; of St. Peter of the Chain; of All Saints; +and of the Purification of our Lady. + +"Upon which premises--all and single--the foresaid John Broune, +perpetual pensionary vicar of the said parochial Church of Crieff, in +Strathearn, asked the present public instruments to be executed for him +by me, notary public undersigned. These deeds were lodged in the +Chapel Royal, near the town of Edinburgh, in the consistory of the +same, at the twelfth hour before mid-day, or thereby, in the year, day, +month, indiction, and pontificate as above, there being present +discreet men, Masters Ninian Spottiswoode, Archdeacon of the furesaid +Chapel Royal, Stirling; John Tod, Alexander Painter, William Atkyn, +Nicholas Buchan, all of the Chapel; James Aikman, burgess of Edinburgh; +John Abercrummy, and Alexander Ramsay, with divers others, witnesses to +the premises. + +(Signed) "J. PRYMROIS." + + +It would appear from all this that there was a deal of trouble in +connection with the erection of the Church of Crieff. One is apt to +get confused among the Popes, Bishops, principal officials, and +notaries public who were all concerned in the erection. We seem to +reach the close of the long process on the first day of September, +1537, the year of the marriage of James V. to Madeleine of France, the +year which lies almost exactly midway between the Battle of Flodden and +the outbreak of the Reformation in 1560. Upon the second day of +December, 1537, "the reverend father in Christ, Henry, by the Divine +compassion, Bishop of the forenamed Chapel and of Candida Casa, from +the tribunal with the consent of his brother canons, or at all events +of the greater part of them, being assembled in Chapter, and as a +memorial of a perpetual thing, ordered, ordained, and decreed that the +erection of the Vicar Church of Crieff should be registered by Master +John Lambert, Prebendary of the sacred Chapel and scribe of the +foresaid Chapter, and to be inscribed and placed upon the books of the +Registrars of the oft-mentioned Chapel." + +I am greatly indebted to A. G. Reid, Esq., Auchterarder, for kindly +furnishing me with the above valuable extracts, and I bring the paper +to a close with a word or two about the Crieff of a later time. The +annals of Crieff as a kirk-town are a dreary waste in the judgment of +one who assures us that he has waded through the records of services +from 1549 to 1700. One incident, however, took place between these +dates which may be mentioned as being the last expiring flicker of the +old jurisdiction exercised by the Stewards of Strathearn. The Earl of +Perth discharged the duties of the office--what remained of them--down +to the abolition of heritable jurisdictions in 1748. In the year 1682, +the minister of Trinity-Gask, by name Richard Duncan, was condemned to +death for the murder of a child which was found concealed under his own +hearth-stone. Lord Fountainhall reports that he was convicted on very +insufficient evidence, and the country people took the same view of the +case. He was hanged on the "kind gallows of Crieff," on the knoll near +the Cemetery, still marked by a solitary tree. The story goes that a +messenger was seen and heard approaching, bearing a reprieve, but he +came too late. Local sympathy asserted that the hour of execution was +anticipated to gratify the spite of some one in authority. However +this may be, the hanging of the Episcopal minister of Trinity-Gask was +the last exercise of criminal jurisdiction on the part of the Steward +of Strathearn. This was the last time the "kind gallows of Crieff" +bore its ghastly fruit. The Highlanders' salutation to it is familiar +to everybody. + +A pleasanter sight by far than a string of dangling caterans was the +great annual tryst, or Michaelmas Market. It was largely frequented, +as being the only market of any consequence between Stirling and +Inverness. We have it on the authority of Macky, a Government secret +agent, who visited Scotland in 1723, that no fewer than thirty thousand +cattle were sold to English dealers for thirty thousand guineas. He +came from Stirling expressly to see the market, and here is his graphic +description of what he saw:-- + +"The Highland gentlemen were mighty civil, dressed in their slash'd +short waistcoats, a trousing (which is breechen and stockings of one +piece of striped stuff), with a plaid for a cloak and a blue bonnet. +They have a ponyard knife and a fork in one sheath, hanging at one side +of their belt, their pistol at the other, and their snuff-mull before, +with a great broadsword by their side. Their attendance was very +numerous, all in belted plaids, girt like women's petticoats down to +the knee, their thighs and half of the leg all bare. They had each +also their broadsword and poynard, and spake all Irish, an +unintelligible language to the English. However, these poor creatures +hired themselves out for a shilling a day to drive cattle to England, +and to return home at their own charge. There was no leaving anything +loose here but it would have been stolen." + + +The Michaelmas Market was shorn of its glory and its picturesque aspect +by the transference of the cattle tryst to Falkirk in 1770. There was +occasional bloodshed at these gatherings, the peace being with +difficulty preserved by the authority of the Lord of Drummond, who +collected the customs of the fairs of Crieff and Foulis. These customs +amounted, in 1734, to nearly £600 Scots. The Lochaber axes carried by +the guardians of the peace may still be seen in the armoury at Drummond +Castle. This last shred of baronial supervision--the ghost of the +ancient Stewardship--disappeared in 1831. But perhaps the most +interesting memorial of the Crieff Michaelmas Tryst is a poem written +by one of the Highland drovers, whose appearance moved the compassion +of Macky, the tourist of 1723. His name is Robert Doun or Donn. He +had left his heart behind him in his native glen, as people will do, +drovers as well as others. There is a ring of genuine poetry in the +verses in which he expresses his love-sickness--his desire to go upon +the wings of the wind as it whistles northward, northward:-- + + "Easy is my bed--it is easy, + But it is not to sleep that I incline. + The wind whistles northwards, northwards, + And my thoughts move with it. + More pleasant were it to be with thee + In the little glen of calves + Than to be counting of droves + In the enclosures of Crieff." + +Mention of the name of Robert Doun brings up recollections of another +literary name--that of David Mallet, or Malloch, who is said to have +been born in Crieff. He has the honour of being mentioned several +times in Boswell's _Life of Johnson_. The latter had no great respect +for him, though, perhaps, he did not mean all he said in his famous +criticism of Lord Bolingbroke's philosophy, which Mallet published +after the author's death. "Sir, he was a scoundrel and a coward--a +scoundrel, for charging a blunderbuss against religion and morality; a +coward, because he had no resolution to fire it off himself, but left +half-a-crown to a beggarly Scotchman to fire it off after his death." +It has been disputed whether Mallet, or Thomson of the "Seasons," wrote +"Rule Britannia." I do not care to enter into it. After all, David +Mallet was a lesser light in the literary firmament. It more concerns +the literary honour of Crieff that John Cunningham, the historian of +the Church of Scotland, did his life-work here; and that in the year +1793, Rachel Barlas, daughter of the Secession minister of Crieff, went +to Comrie as wife of Samuel Gilfillan and became the mother of George +Gilfillan, late of Dundee, a man of fine gifts and of glowing +imagination--somewhat loosely controlled, who wrote much--too much; but +unfortunately left nothing worthy of the reputation he had among his +intimates. + + + +[1] Vicars of Crieff at an earlier date were Bricius, who was a witness +to the reconciliation of Earl Robert and Innocent, Abbot of Inchaffray, +in the Church of Strogeth. The entry is--"_Bricio persona de Creffe, +et Malisio filio ejus_," showing that celibacy was not the universal +clerical custom; and Nicholas, who in one charter, of date 1258, is +called "_Camerario Comitis_" (Malise); and in another, "_Meo filio_," +by "_Malisius filius Gilberti quondam Comitis de Stratherne_." Hence +he was a cousin of the Malise to whom he was "camerarius." + + + + +APPENDIX + + +[Transcriber's notes: + +Several entries in this appendix refer to page numbers elsewhere in +this book. Those page numbers are indicated by numbers enclosed in +curly braces, e.g. {99}. They have been located where page breaks +occurred in the original book, in accordance with Project Gutenberg's +FAQ-V-99. In the HTML version of this book, page numbers are placed in +the left margin. + +In a number of the date ranges below, blank spaces represented missing +dates. In this etext, to preserve formatting, missing dates are +represented with question marks.] + + + +ROLL OF MINISTERS WITHIN THE PRESBYTERY OF AUCHTERARDER FROM THE +REFORMATION TO THE PRESENT TIME + + +By Rev. GEORGE D. MACNAUGHTAN, B.D., Ardoch + + +ARDOCH + +(_Chapel opened for Worship, 25th March, 1781._) + +1781-1788--DAVID SIMPSON, tr. to Tulliallan. + +1788-1792--GEORGE ERSKINE, tr. to Monzie. + +1793-1802--GBORGE LOGAN, tr. to Eastwood. + +1803-1812--LAURENCE MILLER, tr. to Abdie. + +1813-1822--THOMAS YOUNG, tr. to Gask. + +1823-1833--JOHN MACFARLANE, tr. to Collessie. Mr Macfarlane afterwards +joined the Free Church; received degree of D.D., and died Free Church +minister at Dalkeith in 1875. + +1833-1839--ALEX. OSWALD LAIRD, tr. to Abbotshall. Afterwards joined +Free Church; became minister of St. John's, Dundee; died in Crieff, +1891. + +1840-1843--SAMUEL GRANT. Seceded in 1843, afterwards tr. to Aberdeen. + +1843-1844--Chapel vacant. + +1844-1858--DAVID BONALLO, tr. to Blackford. + +Ardoch erected into parish _quoad omnia_, 21st February, 1855. + +1858-1864--JOHN ROBERT CAMPBELL, tr. to Monzievaird. + +1865-1869--WILLIAM MAIR, A.M., tr. to Earlston; now D.D., and author of +"Digest of Church Laws." + +1869-1874--CHARLES M'GREGOR, tr. to Dornoch. Since minister of East +Church, Aberdeen; now of Lady Yester's, Edinburgh; also D.D. + +1874-????--GEO. D. MACNAUGHTAN, B.D. + + + +AUCHTERARDER + +(_Before Reformation belonged to Abbey of Arbroath._) + +1568-1585--JOHN HAMMYL, returned to Dunning. + +1591-1593--PATRICK DAVIDSON, A.M. + +1594-1599--JOHN CLERK, A.M. + +1601-1607--ROBERT SINCLAIR, A.M., returned to Madderty. + +1607-1617--JOHN MONTEATH, A.M., tr. to Monzie. + +1617-1623--HENRY ROLLOCK, tr. to Kilconquhar. Nephew of Principal +Pollock, Edinburgh. + +163?-1649--JOHN GRAHAME, deposed as a Royalist. + +16??-1658--JAMES DRUMMOND, A.M., tr. to Muthill. + +1655-1680--ARCHD. DRUMMOND, A.M., died. + +1680-1686--DAVID FREEBAIRN, A.M., tr. to Dunning. + +1686-1688--JOHN RATTRAY, A.M. Ousted for not praying for William and +Mary; died 1712. + +1700-1705--JAMES MITCHELL, A.M., died July. + +1709-1718--JOHN STEDMAN, A.M., died January. Took part in drawing up +"Auchterarder Creed," and prepared Presbytery's defence before +Commission. + +1718-1729--DAVID SHAW, A.M., died 28th September. + +1730-1770--ROBERT DRUMMOND, died 15th September; son of John Drummond, +of Crieff. + +1770-1781--JAMES CAMPBELL, A.M., died 1st January. + +1781-1803--ANDREW DUNCAN, tr. to Ratho. + +1803-1834--CHARLES STEWART, died 31st August. + +1834-1843--Parish vacant pending settlement of "Auchterarder Case," +Presbytery refusing, in obedience to Veto Act, to take Robert Young on +trials. + +1843-1865--ROBERT YOUNG, died 14th September. "His congregation +greatly increased in numbers, and many who had once been his bitter +opponents became his warmest supporters and best friends. When the day +of his death came all mourned him with unfeigned grief."--_Presbytery +tribute to his memory_. + +1865-????--WILLIAM GIBSON. In 1871 Mr Gibson was judicially declared +to be insane, and the parish has since been served, in terms of the +Belhaven Act, by a series of ordained assistants. + +1871-1878--WM. SIMPSON. Appointed to Bonhill. + +1878-1888--CHARLES SHORT, died 2nd June. + +1888-????--ARCHIBALD JAMIESON, M.A. + + + +ABERUTHVEN + +(_Supplied with Readers from 1567-1591, but united to Auchterarder +before 1618._) + + + +BLACKFORD + +(_Formerly Strageyth._) + +1574-1576--ALEX. GALL, tr. to Trinity-Gask. + +1576-1589--WM. DRUMMOND. + +1590-1591--WM. STRIUILING. + +1592-1606--JAMES BRANDON, tr. to Muthill. Protested against +introduction of Episcopacy. + +1607-1613--ANDREW ALLAN, A.M. + +1613-1651--JAMES GOVANE, A.M., died in August. + +1660-1683--DAVID LITTLEJOHN, A.M., died in May. + +1683-1689--DAVID MORAY, A.M. Ousted at Revolution. + +1697-1739--ARCHIBALD MONCRIEFF, A.M., died in August. + +1738-1767--WILLIAM MONCRIEFF, A.M., died 9th December. Succeeded in +1744 to the Baronetcy of Tullibole. Parish vacant till 1771, +appointment of minister being delayed till his son was licensed. + +1771-1775--Sir HENRY MONCRIEFF WELLWOOD, tr. to West Kirk (St. +Cuthbert's), Edinburgh. Afterwards well-known Church leader. + +1777-1815--JOHN STEVENSON, died 5th April. + +1815-1861--JOHN CLARK, died 31st December. A Moderate of the old +school, and a man of great shrewdness and humour, many of whose sayings +have lived. + +1858-1889--DAVID BONALLO, died 27th August. Translated from Ardoch as +assistant and successor to Mr Clark. + +1890-????--JAMES MACGIBBON, B.D. + + + +BLAIRINGONE + +(_Chapel erected in 1838._) + +1841-1843--ANDREW NOBLE. Seceded. + +1843-1848--Chapel vacant. + +1849-1854--WM. FERGUSON, tr. to Fossoway. + +1855-????--ALEX. M'WHANNEL. + +Disjoined in 1856 to form part of new Presbytery of Kinross. + + + +COMRIE + +(_Conjoined with Comrie is old Parish of Tullichettle._) + +1585-????--ALEX. CHISHOLME, tr. to Lecropt. + +1588-????--JOHN DAVIDSON, A.M., rem. to Muthill. + +1598-1607--JOHN MONTEATH, A.M., tr. to Auchterarder. + +1607-1614--GEORGE CALLUM or M'CALLUM, rem. to Balquhidder. + +1618-1619--ANDREW YOUNG, died. + +1635-1660--JAMES GRAHAME, A.M. Suspended 1649-1651 for adhering to the +Engagement. + +1656-1665--HUGH GORDON, A.M., tr. to Row. + +1668-1689--JOHN PHILP, A.M. Ousted at Revolution. + +1693-1698--JOHN M'KERCHER, A.M., tr. to Dull. + +1702-1709--JOHN M'CALLUM, tr. to Callander. + +1711-1719--DUGALD CAMPBELL, tr. to Lismore and Appin. + +1721-1722--PATRICK M'ADAM, A.M., died in March. + +1723-1731--ANDREW MUSCHET, died. + +1733-1742--AENEAS SHAW, tr. to Pettie. + +1743-1780--ROBERT MENZIES, A.M., died 12th Nov. + +1781-1801--HUGH M'DIARMID, died 4th November. + +1802-1829--PATRICK M'ISAAC, died 25th January. + +1829-1841--WM. MACKENZIE, tr. to Dunblane. Took active part in +Non-Intrusion Controversy. Seceded in 1843. Became minister of North +Leith Free Church. Died on voyage home from Australia, and was buried +in the Red Sea. + +1841-1843--JAMES GARMENT, A.M. Seceded. + +1843-1875--JOHN M'DONALD, D.D., died 17th January. "Left Church at +Comrie strong and flourishing, and his memory deeply stamped on hearts +of people. Possessed of a clear and vigorous intellect, a ready +eloquence, and a good knowledge of ecclesiastical law and forms of +procedure, he always took an interest in Presbytery business, and was +recognised as one of the leaders of the Court."--_Pres. tribute_. + +1875-????--JOHN MACPHERSON. Formerly minister of Gaelic Church, +Greenock. + + + +CRIEFF + +1563-????--THOMAS DRUMMOND. + +1592-1636--DAVID DRUMMOND, A.M. Demitted. + +1635-????--DAVID DRUMMOND, junr., A.M.; probably deposed. Died in +1676, aged 64. + +1658-1682--GILBERT MURRAY, A.M. Demitted. + +1682-1689--WILLIAM MURRAY, A.M. Succeeded his father at Revolution; +read thanksgiving after Battle of Killiecrankie; was ousted. + +1699-1754--JOHN DRUMMOND, died 26th July. A good man, but no scholar. +No Dissent in his time except Episcopacy. + +1755-1767--THOMAS STEWART, A.M. Deposed for drunkenness. + +1771-1813--ROBERT STIRLING, died 16th December. + +1815-????--ALEX. M'INTYRE, died 15th November. A disputed settlement, +which so affected the minister's health that he died the same year. + +1816-1845--WILLIAM LAING, died 16th March. A brother of Dr. David +Laing, the well-known antiquarian. + +1840-1843--R. HORNE STEVENSON, tr. to St. George's, Edinburgh; +afterwards D.D. and Moderator of General Assembly of 1871. Mr +Stevenson was assistant and successor to Mr Laing, and after his +translation, Mr Laing resumed the full duties of his office until his +death. + +1845-1887--JOHN CUNNINGHAM, D.D., LL.D., resigned 16th May. Author of +"Church History of Scotland" and other works. Moderator of General +Assembly of 1886. Resigned on his appointment as Principal of St. +Mary's College, St. Andrews. Died September, 1893. + +1887-1894--WILLIAM P. PATERSON, B.D., resigned 2nd November on +appointment as Professor of Systematic Theology in Aberdeen University. + +1895-????--ANDREW CAMPBELL. + + + +CRIEFF WEST + +(_West Church, Crieff, opened for Worship in 1838._) + +1839-1843--FINLAY MACALISTER. Seceded. + +1843-1848--Chapel closed. + +For some years afterwards served by licentiates. + +1856-1862--MATTHEW RODGER, tr. to St. Leonard's, St. Andrews. Now D.D. + +1862-1878--ARCHIBALD HART, A.M., resigned 6th June. + +Crieff West was erected into parish _quoad sacra_ on 20th July, 1864. + +1878-????--JOHN HUNTER, M.A. + + + +DUNDURN + +(_St. Fillans Chapel, opened for Worship, 1879._) + +1879-1881--JAMES W. BLAKE, tr. to Temple. + +1881-????--THOMAS ARMSTRONG. + +Erected into parish _quoad sacra_, called Dundurn, on 15th March, 1895. + + + +DUNNING + +(_Church dedicated to S. Servanus._) + +1562-1564--ANDREW SYMSON, tr. to Dunbar. Became Protestant by reading +Sir David Lindsay's Poems. + +1568-1594--JOHN HAMYLL. Deposed for baptising an adulterous child. + +1586-1607--JOHN EDMISTON. + +1610-1651--GEORGE MUSCHIT, A.M., deposed. Member of Glasgow Assembly, +1638. + +1652-1668--ANDREW ROLLO, A.M., died in May. + +1669-1672--ROBERT HUNTER, A.M., tr. to Bo'ness. + +1673-1682--JAMES HUNTER, A.M., tr. to Stirling. + +1682-1686--THOMAS CHRYSTIE, A.M., died in January. + +1686-1689--DAVID FREEISAIRN, A.M. Ousted at Revolution. Afterwards +became Bishop of Scotch Episcopal Church, and latterly Primus. Died +24th December, 1739. + +1691-1716--WILLIAM REID, A.M., died 28th January. Preached at +Auchterarder on 18th September, 1715, with pistol hanging at his +breast, while rebels in possession of town. They afterwards burned +Dunning, the minister being just dead. Thorn-tree planted in +commemoration. + +1716-1725--LAUCHLAN M'INTOSH, A.M., tr. to Errol. + +1728-1761--ANDREW SMYTH, died 20th February. + +1761-1768--ALEXANDER SMYTH, died 20th February, Son of previous +minister. + +1769-1782--LEWIS DUNBAR, tr. to Kinnoull. + +1783-1812--JOHN BAIRD, died 7th August. + +1813-1814--CHARLES WILKIE HARDY, died 6th February. Son of Dr. Hardy, +Edinburgh. Waylaid and hung by heels over a bridge, which hastened his +death. + +1814-1818--JOHN GRIERSON, A.M., tr. to Dunblane. + +1818-1860--JAMES RUSSELL, D.D., died 8th October. A man of peculiar +temperament. + +1848-1860--PATON JAMES GLOAG, tr. to Blantyre. Assistant and successor +to Dr. Russell; afterwards D.D., minister of Galashiels, Moderator of +General Assembly of 1889. Author of "Commentary on Acts of Apostles," +and other works. + +1861-1878--JOHN WILSON, D.D., died 1st March. Author of "Index to Acts +of Assembly," "Presbytery of Perth," "Register of the Diocese of +Dunblane." "A man emi-nently fitted to win affection and respect." + +1878-????--PETER THOMSON, B.D. Formerly minister of Kelvinhaugh, +Glasgow. Author of "The Greek Tenses in New Testament." + + + +FOSSOWAY AND TULLIBOLE + +_Tullibole was supplied with Readers from 1567, and had as Ministers:--_ + +1576-1578--JOHN EDMONSTOUN, tr. to Crail. + +1578-1580-3--THOMAS SWINTON, tr. to Muckhart. Was united to Fossoway +about 1614, but had service every third Sabbath till 1729. + + +MINISTERS OF FOSSOWAY + +1585-1588--ADAM MARSCHELL, removed to Glendevon. + +1589-1590--RICHARD WRIGHT, tr. to Clackmannan. + +1590-????-ALEX. WALLACE, A.M. + +1607-1652--LAURENCE MERCER, A.M., died in October. + +1647-1657--LAURENCE MERCER, jun., A.M. Son of previous minister. + +1659-1689--ALEX. RELAND, A.M. Deposed for "gross immorality and +oppression." In 1691 tried to intrude with malignants on kirk, but was +driven back. + +1691-1715--WM. SPENCE, A.M., died 19th March. Formerly minister of +Glendevon. + +1712-1716--ALEX. BARTON, A.M., died 12th June. Ordained assistant and +successor to Mr Spence. + +1717-1742--ANDREW URE, died 7th April. Got church built for united +parish in 1729. + +1743-1778--JOHN STORER, died 8th June. + +1780-1803--WILLIAM GRAHAM, died 14th February. + +1803-1824--GEORGE GRAHAM, A.M., died 4th July. Son of previous +minister. + +1825-1845--PETER BRYDIE, died 30th October. Seceded in 1843, but came +back. + +1846-1852--DUNCAN CAMPBELL, tr. to Luss. Latterly D.D. Died March 23, +1896. + +1852-1854--ALEX. COSENS, tr. to Broughton. + +1854-????--WM. FERGUSON. + +Parish disjoined in 1856 to form part of new Presbytery of Kinross. + + +FOWLIS-WESTER + +1567-????--THOMAS MAKGIBBUN. + +1574-????--WILLIAM MELROSS. + +1576-1578--ANDREW YOUNG. + +1586-1592--JAMES BURDOUN, tr. to Strageyth. + +1593-1603-7--WM. BUCHANAN, A.M., tr. to Methven. + +1607-????--JOHN YOUNG, A.M. + +1619-1634--JAMES DRUMMOND, A.M., died in February. + +1635-1645--JOHN FYFF. Deposed 11th February. A Royalist. + +1646-1675--GEORGE MURRAY, A.M., died 11th April. A Protester, all the +other members of Presbytery being Resolutioners. + +1674-1689--JOHN DRUMMOND. Ousted at Revolution for continuing to pray +for King James and keeping converse with the rebels. Committed to +prison. Died 6th February, 1695. + +1697-1717--WILLIAM HEPBURNE, A.M., died 12th April. Retired to +Stirling "with the ministers about" on the approach of Mar's army in +1715. + +1718-1720--ALEX. TURCAN, A.M., died 18th April. + +1721-1730--WILLIAM SIMSON, tr. to Dunblane. + +1732-1767--ALEX. MURRAY, died 27th December. + +1768-1816--JOHN MURRAY, died 10th August. + +1817-1851--ALEX. MAXTONE, died 21st June. + +1852-????--THOMAS HARDY. + + + +GASK, OR FINDO-GASK + +1572-1574--WILLIAM MELROSS, tr. to Fowlis. + +1592-1633--ALEX. GALL or GAW. + +1624-1635--JOHN FYFF, A.M., tr. to Fowlis. + +1635-1649--WM. BANNATYNE, died. + +1648-1688--ROBERT FREEBAIRN, A.M., died. + +1676-1680--DAVID FREEBAIRN, A.M., tr. to Auchterarder. Son of previous +minister. Assistant and successor to father. + +1680-1693--LAURENCE MERCER. Deprived 10th February by Privy Council. +His father and grandfather were ministers of Fossoway. Died 30th +January, 1720. + +1703-1712--COLIN CAMPBELL, A.M., died in December. As a merchant, +captured at sea, carried to New Spain, barbarously treated; released by +purchase. + +1715-1740--WILLIAM HUNTER, died 27th July. + +1741-1762--JOHN M'CLEISH, 12th March. + +1763-1765--ALEX. COLVILL, tr. to Ormiston. + +1766-1798--DAVID KEMP, A.M., died 22nd February. + +1798-1802--PATRICK M'ISAAC, tr. to Comrie. + +1803-1815--CHARLES ANDERSON, tr. to Closeburn. + +1815-1822--ROBERT JOHN ROBERTSON, tr. to Forteviot. Father of Right +Hon. J. P. B. Robertson, Lord President of Court of Session. + +1823-1852--THOMAS YOUNG, died 5th September. + +1853-????--JAMES MARTIN. + + + +GLENDEVON + +1588-1589--ADAM MARSCHELL. Deposed 26th August as "ignorant of the +Holy Scriptures and without knowledge of the grounds of religion." + +1591-1640--ANDREW KIRK, A.M. + +1639-1652--ANDREW KIRK, junr., A.M., died in November. Son of previous +minister. + +1655-1660--JAMES GRAHAME. + +1660-1663--MUNGO WEMYSS, A.M., tr. to Aberdalgie. + +1664-1679--WILLIAM SPENCE, A.M., deposed by Bishop and Synod for +"disowning the present Government." (See pp. 107-108, 195-207.) + +1680-1681--ROBERT STIRLING, A.M. Probably resigned on account of Test. + +1682-1688--THOMAS HALL, A.M., tr. to St. Madoes. + +1688-1689--ALEX. MELDRUM. Ousted at Revolution. + +1690-1691--WM. SPENCE, A.M., tr. to Fossoway. Old minister returned. + +1694-1709--GILBERT MELVILLE. Resigned on account of indisposition, and +also of the improbability of his having any success by his ministry +among that people though he were in health. + +1710-1718--ALEX. TURCAN, A.M., tr. to Fowlis-Wester. + +1720-1751--DAVID STEVENSON, died 6th February. + +1751-1756--JAMES REID, A.M., tr. to Trinity-Gask. + +1757-1759--DAVID M'GIBBON, A.M., tr. to Buchanan. + +1760-1764--JOHN ANDERSON. Deposed 18th October for brawling, +immoderate anger, drunkenness, and indecent behaviour. By one vote of +the Assembly, 1765, sentence affirmed as against suspension. Died in +Stirling in 1794. + +1765-1775--Parish vacant. Patrick Crichton was presented, but +Presbytery found there was no call. A new call in 1769 was signed +neither by heritor, elder, or head of family. Presbytery were ordered +by Assembly to proceed with settlement, but ultimately Mr Crichton gave +up the presentation. + +1775-1789--ROBERT MATHIE, died 29th March. + +1790-1838--JOHN BROWN, died 16th November. Was for many years Clerk of +Presbytery, and also Clerk to Synod of Perth and Stirling. + +1839-1881--JOHN CUNNINGHAM, died 31st March. In his earlier days Mr +Cunningham was celebrated as a tent preacher. + +1881-????--EBENEZER BROWN SPEIRS, B.D. Translator of Hegel's "Lectures +on the Philosophy of Religion: together with a work on the Proofs of +the Existence of God." + + + +MADDERTY + +1595-????--ROBERT SINCLAIR, A.M. + +1620-1657--JOHN FREEBAIRN, A.M. + +1659-1682--JAMES GRAHAME, A.M. + +1681-1689--JAMES GRAHAME, jun., A.M. Ousted at Revolution. Son of +previous minister. Requested by Kirk-Session in 1707 to give up +Communion cups and tokens. + +1701-1736--ANDREW BRUGH, A.M., died 14th July. + +1736-1741--Parish vacant. Mr George Blaikie was presented, but had his +license taken from him by the Synod for "misrepresenting and impugning +the principles of the Church anent Patronage." Reponed by Assembly in +1738. Lord Dupplin was asked to waive his right of presentation "for +the relief of the church in this strait," but refused. Ultimately Mr +Blaikie got an appointment in America, and the difficulty was solved. + +1741-1783--ANDREW RAMSAY, died 19th October. + +1784-1816--JAMES RAMSAY, died 3rd October. Son of previous minister. +Discovered pit of marl in his glebe; was interdicted by the heritors +from working it, but received authority to do so from Court of Session. +Constructed also a machine for raising sit-fast stones from the ground. + +1817-1829--JOHN EDWARD TOUCH, tr. to Kinnoull. + +1830-1890--WILLIAM STODDART, D.D., died 2nd December. Lived to the +great age of 97: and preached until within a few weeks of his death. + +1891-????--JAMES BROWN, M.A. + + + +MONZIE + +1593-????--JOHN CLERK, A.M., tr. to Auchterarder. + +1595-1601--PATRICK M'QUEINE. Deprived. "Sustained great trouble from +certain broken men and evil-disposed persons who burnt and destroyed +his house, gave him divers and sundry bloody wounds to the great +effusion of his blood, and leaving him for dead, so that he is now +altogether unable to use his ordinary calling of the ministry within +the kirk." + +1599-????--JOHN CLERK, A.M. + +1614-????--DAVID DRUMMOND (probably minister of Crieff, having charge +also of Monzie.) + +1633-????--JOHN MONTEATH, A.M. + +1637-1665--JAMES FORSYTH, A.M., tr. to Kinross. + +1666-1689--JAMES DRUMMOND, A.M. Ousted at Revolution. Said to have +been a person of great learning. + +{xxii} + +1691-1705--WILLIAM CHALMER, tr. to Dunkeld. Parishioners used to play +football on Sabbath morning. Had great difficulty in inducing them to +go to church. + +1710-1740--ARCHIBALD BOWIE, died 11th March. Some parishioners joined +in Rebellion. + +1742-1747--HENRY LUNDIE, tr. to Abercorn. + +1749-1761--DONALD MUNRO, A.M., died 26th August. + +1762-1785--ROBERT WALKER. Resigned 6th December. Was formerly +amanuensis to Ruddiman, the famous grammarian. In 1774, inconsequence +of a fama, he left the parish of Monzie under an arrangement with the +Presbytery. Parish was served by assistants. Having obtained a living +in the Church of England, he resigned. Died 28th February, 1818. + +1786-1792--THOMAS BARTY, tr. to Newtyle. + +1792-1794--GEORGE ERSKINE, died 26th April. + +1794-1808--RALPH TAYLOR, died 6th October. + +1809-1836--SAMUEL CAMERON, died 16th September. New church opened by +him 24th July, 1831. + +1836-1843--JOHN REID OMOND. Seceded. Afterwards D.D.; minister of +Gilmerton Free Church. Died 4th July, 1892. + +1843-1844--GEORGE BLAIR. Resigned 5th November. Afterwards held +important educational appointment in Canada. + +1845-1846--GEO. HUTCHISON, tr. to Banchory-Ternan. Afterwards D.D., +and Moderator of General Assembly, 1887. + +1847-1893--JAMES TAYLOR, A.M., died 23rd January, "An arrowy and +acceptable preacher in the prime of his manhood while his bow abode in +strength. Genial critic, shrewd diviner of motive, and sagacious +counsellor."--_Pres. tribute_. + +1893-????--HUGH M. JAMIESON. + + + +MONZIEVAIRD AND STROWAN + +(_Monzievaird Church dedicated to S. Servanus; Strowan Church dedicated +to S. Ronan. Parishes long united._) + +1623-1640--HENRY ANDERSON, A.M. + +1642-1646--GEORGE MURRAY, A.M., tr. to Fowlis. + +1648-1653--WM. WEMYSS, A.M., tr. to Dron. + +1655-1680--JAMES ROW, A.M.; formerly of Muthill; got church built at +Enoch for united parishes in 1667. + +1680-1685--GEORGE MITCHELL, A.M. + +1685-1689--DAVID YOUNG, A.M. Ousted at Revolution. + +1692-1720--JOHN CAMPBELL, died 25th March. + +1721-1729--WM. DUNCAN, died 27th March. + +1730-1780--JAMES PORTEOUS, A.M., died 25th Nov. + +1776-1778--WM. THOMSON, resigned 1st October. Mr Thomson was assistant +and successor to Mr Porteous. When he resigned he had received, he +said, "the offer of an office in the republic of letters." He devoted +himself to literary pursuits; ultimately became a bookseller's hack, +and wrote a great number of works; became LL.D. of Glasgow in 1783; +died 16th March, 1817. + +1781-1835--COLIN BAXTER, died 5th January. + +1835-1843--JOHN FERGUSON. Seceded. Afterwards Free Church minister of +Bridge of Allan. + +1843-1864--WM. ROBERTSON, died 9th June. Author of two hymns--"A +little child the Saviour came" and "Thee God we praise"--in _Scottish +Hymnal_. + +1864-1894--JOHN ROBERT CAMPBELL, died in October. + +1895-????--ARTHUR GORDON, M.A. + + + +MUCKART + +1567-1572--JAMES PATOUN. Promoted to Bishopric of Dunkeld; accused of +treason in 1580. + +1583-????--THOMAS SWINTOUN. + +1585-1591--JAMES COKBURNE. Deposed for non-residence. + +1586-????--WILLIAM PATOUN. + +1588-1591--ANDREW KIRK, A.M., tr. to Glendevon. + +1591-1592--ALEX. SYMSONE, A.M., tr. to Alva. + +1594-1620--PATRICK DAVIDSON, A.M., died. + +1622-1640--ALEX. FOTHERINGHAM, A.M., died in June. + +1640-1642--DAVID DRUMMOND, A.M., tr. to Linlithgow. + +1644-1656--JOHN GOVEAN, A.M., died in January. Celebrated for his fine +penmanship. + +1656-1660--JAMES FORSYTHE, tr. to Airth. + +1662-1665--JAMES FORSYTHE, tr. to Bothkennar. Son of minister of +Monzie. + +1667-1677--DAVID MONCRIEFF, A.M., tr. to Aberdalgie. + +1677-1697--ROBERT SHARP, A.M. Deposed for contumacy. + +1698-1701--JOHN GIB, A.M., tr. to Cleish. + +1703-1717--ANDREW URE, tr. to Fossoway. + +1718-1724--DAVID GUTHRIE, died 9th March. + +1725-1732--ALEX. WARDROBE, tr. to Whitburn. + +1734-1786--ARCHIBALD RENNIE, A.M., died 13th March. A disputed +settlement. Ordained by Committee of Commission of Assembly. During +his long ministry he preached in church only the first Sunday; never +had an elder; never dispensed Lord's Supper; let manse, except +dining-room, which he used for service; was tenant of a farm, which he +much improved; and bought an estate. + +1786-1830--ANDREW GIBSON, died 18th October. Age 90. Gathered again a +fair congregation. + +1824-1825--ROBERT ALLAN, A.M., tr. to Little Dunkeld. + +1831-1832--WILLIAM ROBERTSON, tr. to Logie. Afterwards D.D. and +minister of New Greyfriars, Edinburgh. + +1832-1843--JAMES THOMSON. Seceded. + +1843-????--ALEX. MOORHEAD FERGUSON. + +Parish disjoined in 1836 to form part of new Presbytery of Kinross. + + + +MUTHILL + +1567-1574--ALEX. GALL, tr. to Strageyth. + +1576-1585--ALEX. CHEISHOLME, tr. to Comrie. + +1590-1607--JOHN DAVIDSON, A.M., died 7th April. Protested against +introduction of Episcopacy in 1606. Named as constant Moderator of +Presbytery. + +1608-1627--JAMES BURDOUN. + +1635-1645--JAMES ROW, A.M., deposed 12th February as a Royalist. +Afterwards became minister of Monzievaird. + +164?-1649--ARCHIBALD DRUMMOND, A.M., deposed for acceding to a divisive +supplication; afterwards became minister of Auchterarder. + +1656-1686--JAMES DRUMMOND, A.M. Became D.D. in 1682; Bishop of Buchin +in 1684; and resigned Muthill in 1686. + +1687-????--JAMES IRVINE, tr., probably to Lonmay. + +1689-1693--JAMES INGLIS. Intruded by Earl of Perth, and finally ousted +by Privy Council for refusing to pray for William and Mary. + +1702-????--WM. CHALMERS, minister of Monzie, was for a short time in +Muthill, but afterwards returned to Monzie. + +1704-1754--WM. HALY, A.M., died 16th July. Riot at his ordination. +Afterwards popular. His curling-stones still exist, and are in +possession of Royal Caledonian Club. + +1755-1766--JAMES SCOTT, died 6th July. + +1767-1809--JOHN SCOTT, A.M., died 11th February. Son of previous +minister. + +1809-1826--JOHN RUSSELL, A.M., died 17th April. Son of Burns' "Black +Russell," who had become minister of Stirling. A popular preacher. +Present church built for him. + +1826-1867--JAMES WALKER, A.M., died 21st December. + +1868-????--JAMES RANKIN, D.D. Formerly minister of Old West Church, +Greenock. Author of "Character Studies in the Old Testament," +"Handbook of the Church of Scotland," "The Creed in Scotland," "The +First Saints," and other works. + + + +TRINITY-GASK AND KINKELL + +(_Kinkell had Readers, and two Ministers._) + +1584-1594--JOHN HAMMYL. Deposed. + +1637-1639--JOHN MURRAY, A.M., removed to Trinity-Gask, with which the +parish has ever since been united. + + +MINISTERS OF TRINITY-GASK + +1576-1593--ALEX. GALL. Formerly at Muthill and Strageyth. + +1596-1608--WILLIAM OSWALD. + +1639-1662--JOHN MURRAY, A.M., died in December. + +1664-1673--JAMES BRUCE, A.M. + +1674-1682--RICHARD DUNCAN, A.M. Hanged at Crieff on a charge of child +murder, a reprieve arriving twenty minutes too late. This is supposed +to be the historical fact underlying the well-known popular rhyme, +erroneously attributed to Little Dunkeld:-- + + "O what a parish, sic a terrible parish, + O what a parish is that o' Kinkell; + They hae hangit the minister, drooned the precentor; + Dang doon the steeple, an' drucken the bell." + +The Churches of Trinity-Gask and Kinkell are on opposite sides of the +Earn, and the precentor is supposed to have been drowned in crossing +between them. The Church of Kinkell is now a ruin, and has no steeple. +Its bell was recently discovered in the possession of a church in East +Lothian. + +1683-1698--JAMES ROY, A.M., died in that year. He and the minister of +Muckart were the only members of Presbytery who continued in their +charges after the Revolution. + +1700-1718--JOHN MURRAY, A.M., died 22nd November. + +1720-1755--PATRICK PROVAND, died 29th November. The parish is +popularly known as Tarnty. "Mr Provand, minister of Tarnty," was once +ushered into the presence of Lord Kinnoull by an English footman as "Mr +Providence, the minister of Eternity." + +1756-1769--JAMES REID, A.M., died 24th August. + +1770-1776--JOHN KEMP, tr. to New Greyfriars, Edinburgh. Afterwards +D.D.; colleague in Tolbooth Church with Dr. Webster, and Secretary to +the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, in which capacity he +visited most of the Hebrides, founding schools. A man of conciliatory +and engaging manners. (See pp. 114-115.) + +1777-1793--JOHN WRIGHT, tr. to Scone. + +1794-1834--JAMES BRUGH, D.D., died 23rd July. Changed spelling of his +name to Burgh. + +1836-1866--ALEX. HILL GRAY, died 15th May. Had a narrow escape of +being vetoed, but, there being some irregularity in the making up of +the roll of heads of families, his appointment was sustained. + +1866-????--GEORGE WRIGHT KEMP. + +_Note_.--The Information in above lists is largely derived from Dr. Hew +Scott's _Fasti Ecclesiae Scoticana_. It has, however, been +supplemented and brought down to date. G. D. M'N. + + + +PRESBYTERY CLERKS + +????-1657--LAURENCE MERCER, A.M., minister of Fossoway. + +????-1677--WILLIAM WHYT. "On May 8th, 1677, David Whyt, son to umql. +William Whyt, supplicated the Presbytery anent ye reste of ye fialls of +his deceast father as Clerk to ye Presbyterie, is heard, and those who +are deficient are ordered to bring payment against ye next day." + +1677-1685--DAVID YOUNG, schoolmaster at Gask and Auchterarder, and +afterwards minister of Monzievaird. + +1685-1693--LAURENCE MERCER, minister of Gask. Writes a fantastic hand +very difficult to read. Mr Mercer was ousted in 1693. His last minute +is dated 7th September, 1687. Probably for some years no records were +kept. + +1703-1707--ANDREW URE, minister of Muckart. Resigns 4th November, 1707. + +1707-1711--JOHN DRUMMOND, minister of Crieff. Intimates resignation +14th November 1710. + +1711-1729--ARCHD. BOWIE, minister of Monzie, appointed 16th January, +1711, by plurality of votes as against Mr Ure, Muckart, and Mr Haly, +Muthill. Held office till 24th April, 1729, when Mr Will. Simson was +chosen in his place, who, declining to do duty, Mr John M'Leish was +appointed to do it. + +1729-1741--JOHN M'CLEISH. Mr M'Cleish was a licentiate residing within +the bounds. He seems to have resigned Clerkship on his appointment to +parish of Gask. + +1741-1747--LACHLAN TAYLOR. + +1747-1757--JAMES REID, A.M. At time of his appointment a divinity +student; was afterwards minister of Glendevon; resigned Clerkship soon +after his translation to Trinity-Gask. + +1757-1759--DAVID M'GIBBON, minister of Glendevon. Appointed +unanimously 24th April, 1757. Resigned 27th September on his +translation to Buchanan. + +1759-1768--ALEX. SMYTH, minister of Dunning, appointed unanimously 6th +November, 1759; died 20th February, 1768. "The salary and occasional +perquisites were continued during the Presbytery's pleasure with the +sisters of the deceast, and Mr Robert Walker, minister of Monzie, +accepted the office on these terms." + +1768-1775--ROBERT WALKER, minister of Monzie, appointed 5th April, +1768. Getting into trouble (see p. 22 (xxii), App.) he had to leave +the parish of Monzie, and on 23rd November, 1773, resigned the +Clerkship. On 1st February, 1774, he requested to be continued, and +stated that "one of your number, whose capacity is unquestionable, has +generously consented to take charge of your papers and records." The +request was granted, and the person referred to, Mr John Kemp, +Trinity-Gask, acted as Clerk till 12th September, 1775, when he was +thanked for the care and attention with which he had discharged the +duties of that office. + +1775-1776--DAVID DAVIDSON, assistant at Monzie, appointed 12th +September, 1775, "during the pleasure of the Presbytery and his own +good behaviour." One of Mr Walker's assistants. Resigned 7th May, +1776, on being admitted as minister of Kippen. + +1776-1784--ALEX. COLDSTREAM, schoolmaster of Crieff, appointed +unanimously 7th May, 1776. He never seems to have recorded a single +minute of Presbytery in the register, but to have left them all in +scroll. On 7th August, 1784, a motion was made by a member of +Presbytery that, considering the many proofs of indolence and +incapacity which their Clerk has given in the above business of Mr +Lawson, and other matters belonging to his office, that he be no longer +continued therein. Consideration of this motion was delayed till next +meeting (2nd Nov., 1784), when it was unanimously agreed to. + +1784-1792--ANDREW DUNCAN, minister of Auchterarder, appointed 2nd +November, 1784. On 3rd July, 1792, he intimated to the Presbytery +that, having now completed the register of the Presbytery, which had +been ten years behind the minute-book, and brought it up to the present +date, the doing of which was one object of his undertaking the +Clerkship, he now begged to resign that office. + +1792-1819--JOHN BROWN, minister of Glendevon, appointed 3rd July, 1792. +Held office for long period of twenty-seven years. Was also for many +years Clerk of Synod. Resigned (8th June, 1819) the Presbytery +Clerkship, thanking them for "the support and assistance they had +always given him in the execution of his duty as their Clerk." At same +time he nominated as his successor, Mr Robert John Robertson, minister +of Gask, "a gentleman whose candour, fidelity, and talents much +recommend him to the notice of all that know him, and qualify him +particularly to the office of Clerk of the Presbytery." + +1819-1822--ROBERT JOHN ROBERTSON, minister of Gask, appointed +unanimously on 8th June, 1819; resigned 2nd July, 1822, on his +translation to Forteviot. + +1822-1829--JOHN EDWARD TOUCH, minister of Madderty, appointed +unanimously 2nd July, 1822; resigned 1st September, 1829, on his +translation to Kinnoull, and was thanked for his "attention, fidelity, +diligence, and accuracy." + +1829-1833--JOHN MACFARLANE, minister of Ardoch Chapel, appointed by a +majority on 1st September, 1829, as against Mr Maxtone, minister of +Fowlis. Resigned 5th March, 1833, on his appointment to Collessie. + +1833-1843--JAMES THOMSON, minister of Muckart, appointed unanimously +5th March, 1833; resigned 4th April, 1843, when interdict was served on +Presbytery prohibiting _quoad sacra_ ministers and elders from voting, +"whereupon Mr Thomson, the Clerk, resigned his Clerkship, to which +resolution he adhered, notwithstanding the earnest remonstrances of +several brethren. Mr Stevenson, assistant and successor in the parish +of Crieff, was then appointed interim Clerk, and to him Mr Thomson +delivered such papers as he was then possessed of, consisting of scroll +and rough copy of minutes and a small parcel of documents." + +1843--R. HORNE STEVENSON, assistant and successor in the parish of +Crieff, appointed in above circumstances; resigned 26th Sep., 1843, on +his translation to St. George's, Edinburgh. + +1843-1864--WILLIAM ROBERTSON, minister of Monzievaird, appointed +unanimously 26th Sept., 1843. Died 9th June, 1864. "He discharged the +duties of Presbytery Clerk for a period of upwards of twenty years. +For these duties he was peculiarly well qualified by his extensive +acquaintance with the laws and constitution of the Church, by his +masterly habits of business, and by the urbanity and kindness of his +disposition. And these duties he discharged with a zeal and an ability +which entitle his memory to the lasting gratitude of the +Presbytery."--_Pres. tribute_. + +_Note_.--Mr Robertson, the Presbytery Clerk, being personally concerned +in a case, Mr A. G. Reid, solicitor, Auchterarder, was appointed to act +from 16th October, 1850, to 4th November, 1851, as interim Clerk of +Presbytery. + +1864-1878--JOHN WILSON, D.D., minister of Dunning, appointed +unanimously 5th July, 1864. Was also Clerk of Synod. Died 1st March. +"His appointment as Clerk of Presbytery fourteen years ago brought him +into closer connection with its members, and by his uniform courtesy, +his friendliness, his tact in managing business, and his accurate and +extensive knowledge of the forms of procedure in ecclesiastical courts, +he rendered most valuable service to the Church."--_Pres. tribute_. + +1878-????--GEO. D. MACNAUGHTAN, B.D., minister of Ardoch, appointed +unanimously (2nd April, 1878), on motion of Dr Cunningham, minister of +Crieff, seconded by Mr Bonallo, minister of Blackford. + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Chronicles of Strathearn, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CHRONICLES OF STRATHEARN *** + +***** This file should be named 26342-8.txt or 26342-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/6/3/4/26342/ + +Produced by Al Haines + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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